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R E S TAU R A N T S O F THE YEAR 2018’s Best Dish

SWEET & SAVORY PARIS-BREST! p. 81

MAY 2018

10 CRISP WHITE WINES

P. 3 8

THE ULTIMATE LEMON PASTA P. 4 2

BOOZ Y BUNDT CAK E P. 10 0


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FOOD & WINE

MAY RESTAURANTS + TRAVEL ISSUE SPECIAL FEATURE

63 The 2018 Restaurants of the Year Restaurant Editor Jordana Rothman logged 37,000 miles in six months to find 2018’s 10 most captivating places to eat.

DEPARTMENTS

7

40

Editor’s Letter

Travel Journal

9

Creamy lemon pasta from the Amalfi Coast

Trendspotting

45

Travel edition

21 Handbook What to cook now

Where to Go Next Head to Kumamoto, the Portland, Oregon, of Japan.

32 Wine Flight Get down (under)

38

48 Go the Long Way Two chefs. Two epic road trips.

Bottle Service Minerality, explained

54 At Your Service Why guest behavior matters

100 Most Wanted

Jess Wang, one of the cooks at LASA, a F&W Restaurant of the Year (p. 63).

On the cover: photograph by Greg DuPree; food styling by Chelsea Zimmer; prop styling by Claire Spollen

M AY 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: eva kolenko

A boozy Bundt cake


Refined notes. With an earthy finish. The reimagined 2019 JeepÂŽ Cherokee.

For the connoisseur of tasteful design.

Š 2018 FCA US LLC. All rights reserved. Jeep is a registered trademark of FCA US LLC.


RECIPE INDEX RECIPE KEY ● FAST

● VEGETARIAN

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Staff-Favorite Pairings

● STAFF FAVORITE

Contains no meat, poultry, or seafood.

Salads & Vegetables

Recipe we especially love.

Noodles & Grains

● Bitter Greens with Soft-Boiled

● ● ● Creamy Lemon Pasta p. 42

Eggs p. 26

● Labneh and Za’atar Granola

Parfait p. 92

● ● ● Grapefruit-Pomegranate Salad

p. 92

● Pasta with Asparagus and

● ● ● Poached Leeks with Sauce

Gribiche p. 94 ● ● Smashed Cucumber Salad with Butter Beans and Tarragon p. 28

Upgrade your fruit salad with hazelnuts and mint.

Mushrooms p. 24

Breads & Sweets ● ● Antebellum Emmer Rolls

with Honey Butter p. 95 ● ● Condensed-Milk Ice

Meat & Poultry ● Chicken Liver Paris-Brests

with Black Honey Glaze p. 93 ● Crispy Duck Arroz Caldo p. 96 ● Okonomiyaki p. 46

Cream with Black Sesame Polvoron p. 96 ● ● Curry-Spiced Nut Bars p. 10 ● Double-Crust Pie Dough p. 52 ● Huckleberry and Butter Pie p. 52

● Party Melt p. 91 ● ● Potato-Crusted Pork Schnitzel

with Hot Pepper Mayonnaise p. 23 ● Sticky-Rice Tamales with

Chorizo p. 95

Milk Chocolate Pots de Crème p. 94 ● Spinach Mu’ajinaat p. 92 ● ● Strawberry-Pistachio Sweet Rolls p. 25 ● ● Tortuga Rum Cake p. 98

CREAMY LEMON PASTA No-churn ice cream is even easier than it sounds.

with Bright, citrusy Campanian white: 2016 Colli di Lapio Fiano di Avellino (p. 42)

● Turmeric and Coriander

Roast Chicken p. 90

Cocktails & Sauces ● ● Almond-Chipotle Oil p. 14

Fish & Shellfish ● ● Butter-Basted Scallops with

Spring Greens and Snap Peas p. 22 ● Grilled Gulf Shrimp with

Comeback Sauce p. 94 ● ● Shrimp with Potatoes and Tomatoes p. 42

● ● ● Ezme p. 90 ● ● Pimm’s Cup p. 91 ● ● Salty Cat p. 91 ● ● Sleepy Floyd p. 91 ● ● Swiftly Tailored p. 91 ● ● ● Toum p. 90 ● ● Zhoug p. 90

What Ray’s Pouring Now

GRILLED GULF SHRIMP WITH COMEBACK SAUCE with Farmhouse-style ale: Good People Urban Farmer (p. 94)

Executive Wine Editor Ray Isle’s favorite bottles this month 2014 Cantele Salice Salentino Riserva ($15) This Puglian estate makes impressive reds for modest prices. Juicy red fruit flavors and black tea notes in this wine made from the Negroamaro grape make it a summer grilling standout.

2016 Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Semillon ($25) Nowhere else on earth makes Semillons like the ones from Australia’s Hunter Valley: Ultra-zingy, low in alcohol, and bristling with citrus intensity, they’re ideal summer wines.

2015 Veyder-Malberg Bruck Riesling ($65) Last year, one of my favorite discoveries from the F&W Aspen Classic was this wine, a crisp, minerally Riesling from a star Austrian producer.

Customer Service and Subscriptions: For 24-hour service, please use our website: foodandwine.com/customerservice. You can also call 800-333-6569 (813-979-6625 for international subscribers) or write to Food & Wine at P.O. Box 62160, Tampa, FL 33662. Food & Wine (ISSN-0741-9015). May 2018, Vol. 41, No. 5. Published 12 times a year by Time Inc. Affluent Media Group, a subsidiary of Time Inc. Time Inc. is a wholly owned subsidiary of Meredith Corporation. Principal office: 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281. FOOD & WINE is a registered trademark of Time Inc. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Publications Mail Commercial Sales Agreement No. 40036840 (GST# 129480364RT). U.S. and Canada Subscribers: If the postal authorities alert us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Food & Wine, PO Box 4226, Toronto, ON M5W 5N7. Postmaster: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2); Non-Postal and Military Facilities: Send address corrections to Food & Wine Magazine PO Box 62120 Tampa, FL 33662-2120. Food & Wine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographs, or other works. All rights in letters sent to Food & Wine will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and as subject to unrestricted right to edit and to comment editorially. Contents Copyright ©2018 Time Inc. Affluent Media Group. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Member of the Alliance for Audited Media.

M AY 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E


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EDITOR’S LETTER

HENEVER I LAND IN A NEW CITY, I make a beeline for a restaurant before heading to my hotel. If I’ve done my scouting, I know exactly where I’m going: a local’s place, preferably chef-owned. A meal at such a spot (along with a visit to the farmers market) is my favorite way to ease into a city’s bloodstream. Whatever the case, and wherever I might be, the alchemy of great food, service, and hospitality washes away the vagaries of air travel, setting the table for the rest of the trip. Restaurants deliver a quick litmus test of a city’s food culture and a neighborhood’s sense of community. Usually the menu celebrates something delicious growing, swimming, or brewing nearby. Maybe the dining room showcases the creative talents of a local design firm or artist. Most definitely the rapport among staff and customers lays bare the character of the place. As Restaurant Editor Jordana Rothman writes in “he 2018 Restaurants of the Year” (p. 63), “[he best restaurants] remind us that a good meal can capture the spirit of a place as sharply as a postcard.” Maybe that’s why those of us who love restaurants travel the extra mile—and in some cases, thousands of miles—to visit a great one. In this Restaurants + Travel Issue, you’ll find stories of cross-country pilgrimages, including New England chef Brandon Baltzley’s road trip west to Singlehread in Sonoma County, California, and the tale of the Canlis crew that drove a priceless barrel of whiskey east from Seattle to toast their friends at Eleven Madison Park in New York City. Few brave souls have embarked on a trip more epic than Jordana herself, who flew some 37,000 miles in six months to find the 10 most captivating new restaurants in America. Along the way, she shared pastries with strangers at an Arab

photography: wes frazer (at highlands bar & grill, birmingham, alabama)

W

bakery in Oakland, California; ate next-level Filipino food in Los Angeles; experienced a sweet and savory Paris-Brest, the dish of the year, at a reimagined bistro in Minneapolis; apparently listened to a lot of Drake (you’ll have to ask her); and uncovered deeper truths about what it means to operate a restaurant with integrity today. To read Jordana’s reports is to slide into a banquette across from her and experience a writer entering her prime. She’s the consummate gastro-mensch: well-researched, curious, playful, and always sharing bites of something delicious while bantering with the server and sommelier. Professional eaters like Jordana know that restaurants aren’t a one-way street. As customers, we, too, share responsibility in the hospitality equation. Brush up on the new rules of dining out with “At Your Service” (p. 54). We partnered with Culinary Agents to poll their 400,000-plus members in the hospitality business and asked A-level chefs and restaurateurs what guests can do to help make their nights out the best they can be—for everyone involved. he best guests and the best restaurants share something in common: a commitment to community. Whether down the street or 37,000 miles away, the shared delight of being at the table is something to celebrate.

HUNTER LEWIS @NOTESFROMACOOK HUNTER.LEWIS@MEREDITH.COM

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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M AY 2018


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TREND SPOTTING TRAVEL EDITION

Upgrade Your In-Flight Snack

photography: greg dupree; food styling: torie cox; prop styling: alistair turnbull

BY ELYSE INAMINE

9

SKIP THE SAD BAG of pretzels on your next flight, and instead fuel up with these homemade nut bars dreamed up by Kelsey Youngman, F&W’s test kitchen manager. Hearty granola bars and curryspiced nut mixes inspired Youngman to marry the two. “I love strong flavors when flying because your taste is dulled in the air, so I came up with this super-savory version of a traditional nut bar,” she says. Candy-like dates and brown rice syrup bind the toasted coconut chips, raw nuts, and puffed rice, while Madras curry lends an earthy, bitter note. It all makes for the perfect snack to pack for your next adventure. Flip the page for your new travel buddy.

M AY 2018


TRENDSPOTTING

Curry-Spiced Nut Bars page 9 Active 10 min; Total 1 hr 40 min Makes 12 bars Roasting nuts with curry powder enhances the flavor and aroma of both. Add the rice syrup while the nuts are still warm to soften the syrup for easier stirring. 1 cup raw cashews 1 cup raw almonds 1/2

cup raw walnuts

1 Tbsp. virgin coconut oil, melted, plus more for greasing

Grilled husk cherries (aka ground cherries) served over vanilla cream are among the next-level yakitori at Le Rigmarole in Paris.

1 Tbsp. Madras curry powder 1/2

tsp. kosher salt

1 cup puffed brown rice 1/2

cup toasted coconut chips

1/2

cup dates (about 5 dates), pitted and finely chopped

1 Tbsp. flax meal

Sticking to It

1 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

FOR A SNAPSHOT OF PARIS’ yakitori scene,

1/2

cup brown rice syrup

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Combine cashews, almonds, walnuts, coconut oil, curry powder, and salt in a medium bowl; stir to coat. Transfer to a large baking sheet, and spread in an even layer. Bake until nuts are lightly toasted, 8 to 10 minutes. 2. Grease a 9-inch square baking pan with coconut oil, and line with parchment paper, leaving a 1-inch overhang on 2 sides. Toss together toasted nuts, puffed rice, coconut chips, dates, flax meal, and sesame seeds in a medium bowl. Add brown rice syrup, and stir to coat. Transfer to prepared pan, and bake at 325°F until toasted and starting to set, 15 to 18 minutes.

look up “une brochette boeuf-fromage.” Or maybe don’t: “It’s an abomination of tofulike cheese surrounded by beef,” says Jessica Yang. Over the last few years, Japanese chefs like Taku Sekine of Dersou and Sota Atsumi, formerly of Clown Bar, have injected new energy into the city by blending French food with Japanese sensibility, but yakitori is still associated with bad restaurants and worse skewers. Yang, a Taiwanese-American pastry chef, and her husband, Robert Compagnon (pictured

below), want to change that. After training in New York City (Compagnon at yakitori temple Torishin, Yang at French-focused Rebelle), they moved to the City of Lights to open Le Rigmarole. On a recent evening, diners lined up for dishes that showcase Japanese technique and binchotan grilling applied to the French ingredients that drew the couple to the city: morsels of chicken neck finished with lemon and pickled mustard seeds; grilled husk cherries over vanilla cream.“Honestly,” Yang says, “there’s no better place to be a cook.”

photography: evan sung

3. Transfer pan to a wire rack; let cool 20 minutes. Remove mixture from pan, and discard parchment; let cool completely. Using an oiled knife, cut into 12 bars. Individually wrap with parchment paper, and store in an airtight container. MAKE AHEAD Bars may be stored at room temperature up to 5 days.

M AY 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E


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TRENDSPOTTING

FIRST BITE

Marash Chiles and Mexican Oregano

Amara

Served alongside the dish, the Turkish chile flakes have a warming piquancy and fruity, slightly sour flavor. Paired with Mexican oregano, the dried garnishes release their aroma when they hit the hot broth.

WHEN CHEF MOURAD LAHLOU opened Aziza in

San Francisco, it became the first Michelinstarred Moroccan restaurant in the country. His new venture, Amara, which debuts this spring, explores the synergy between Mexican and Moroccan food. (A brief history lesson: he Moors invaded Europe in the eighth century, bringing their cuisine with them; the Spanish carried those influences to Mexico 800 years later.) he menu, developed in collaboration with co-chef Louis Maldonado, looks for harmony in Mexican and Moroccan cooking methods and ingredients, such as fideos, the short noodles the cuisines have in common. “It was a head-scratcher for me to create a vegetarian dish,” says Maldonado. “I created one based on the traditional Mexican sopa de fideo and seffa, Moroccan vermicelli served with a rich burnt-onion broth.” Try the dish at Amara—we dive into the components here. 5800 Geary Blvd., San Francisco

Fresh Herbs and Limes Finishing the dish with cilantro, basil, dill, mint, and a squeeze of lime tempers the richness of the other components.

Green Vegetables For the base of their hearty vegetable main course, the chefs use local California brassicas like kale, Brussels sprouts, and Broccolini charred on a plancha.

ALMONDCHIPOTLE OIL

Vermicelli

Combine 1 cup sliced raw almonds, 1⁄2 cup canola oil, and 1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil in a small saucepan. Cook over medium until almonds are evenly toasted, about 8 minutes. Strain mixture into a bowl; reserve almonds for another use. Blend toasted almond oil and 4 stemmed dried chipotle chiles until smooth.

Charred-Onion-and-Spice Broth Seffa is usually accompanied by a rich, onion-infused broth, so the chefs employ the Mexican technique of charring onions, which caramelizes their sugars and lends a smoky flavor to the mahogany broth. Chiles, cinnamon sticks, cardamom, cloves, and allspice—all common to both cuisines—are toasted to release their fragrance. M AY 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

illustrations: william brown

Drizzle this spicy oil over grilled vegetables, or toss with cold noodles.

Short vermicelli noodles— an ingredient that seffa and sopa de fideo have in common—are steamed over a vegetable-saffron broth spiced with cumin, coriander, chiles, and oregano. Steaming the noodles is a nod to how seffa and couscous traditionally are prepared in Morocco. At home, instead of steaming, toast 1 part noodles then simmer them with a pinch of saffron in 2 parts vegetable broth.


SHINE BRIGHTER Blue Moon is a wheat beer brewed with Valencia orange peel for a taste that rises above the ordinary.


TRENDSPOTTING

TIPS FOR A BETTER TRIP

When You Land:

1 1 Decide what kind of trip you want. “People plan by landmarks instead of living like a local. That’s because people feel guilty, like ‘I didn’t come to not go to this place.’ But give yourself permission to spend time where you want to be.”

2

Kalisa Martin, founder of The Runaway Experience.

WE ASKED:

How Do You Plan a Food Getaway? A GREAT VACATION CAN CHANGE YOUR LIFE. Just ask Kalisa Martin. In 2014, Martin

was brand director at Tasting Table when a weekend trip to Jamaica set her on a new course. She and her partner, Jeff Belizaire, decided to stay put, opening a bed-andbreakfast that showcased local art and where Martin—a graduate of the French Culinary Institute—prepared hyper-local Jamaican cuisine. Now she’s expanded that venture, channeling her love of food, hospitality, and travel into he Runaway Experience (therunawayexperience.com), a luxury travel agency focused on community-based tourism. Martin has a knack for finding that amazing out-of-theway restaurant or the incredible local hang you can’t wait to share with your friends. “Food isn’t an afterthought for us,” she says. “We curate our trips around it.” Here is Martin’s advice on how to plan the best food-forward vacation. M AY 2018

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Read local reviews. “Look up online newspapers and blogs that are written by the people who live there for the people who live there. If you find one that’s updated regularly and seems unbiased, then it’s probably legit.”

3 Consider where you stay. “If you book a bed-andbreakfast, you have a head start. Talk to the innkeepers about where they like to eat, drink, and shop. If you’re at a hotel chain, skip the concierge and ask staffers what they like to do in their free time.”

Chat up your cab driver. “It’s their job to know where to go. They’ll show you what’s worthwhile and give you feedback they’ve received from other visitors. Plus, if you hit it off, they can be your driver throughout the trip.”

2 Don’t plan every minute. “Leave time in your itinerary to talk to folks. Connecting with people on the ground will introduce you to momand-pop shops or restaurants so new they haven’t made it into the guidebooks.”

3 Do what you love.“I always like to go to art galleries, cool shops, and film talks in the area. If one of those places or events strikes a chord, I’ll talk to whoever I find there because they’ll probably have recommendations that I’ll vibe with as well.”

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: sean munro

Before You Go:


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You probably forgot what you ate. But you remember everything else.


Kā‘anapali

@markkushimi We made a lot of friends that day on Maui – all of them underwater. #LetHawaiiHappen #VisitMaui

Mākena


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WHAT TO COOK NOW

HANDBOOK

photography: greg dupree; food styling: torie cox; prop styling: claire spollen

Butter, garlic, thyme, and a hot pan give these scallops their incredible crust and rich, nutty flavor.

Just Cook It! F&W Culinary Director Justin Chapple’s new book, Just Cook It!, features Mad Genius Tips from his home kitchen. Here, he dishes out his favorite recipes and techniques, from butter-basting scallops to smashing cucumbers for summer salads.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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HANDBOOK

THE TAKEAWAY BASTE WITH BUTTER

Butter-Basted Scallops with Spring Greens and Snap Peas Total 30 min; Serves 4

Justin pairs butter-basted scallops with tender spinach, bitter dandelion, and crisp snap peas. The lightly browned butter acts as a sauce for both the sweet scallops and the tangy, lemony spring greens. 1/4

cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

12 large sea scallops, side muscles removed (about 1 1/4 lb.) Kosher salt and pepper 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed M AY 2018

4 garlic cloves (2 whole and 2 thinly sliced), divided

butter, whole garlic cloves, and thyme sprigs to skillet. Cook, basting scallops with butter, until browned on the other side and just opaque throughout, 2 to 3 more minutes. Transfer to a warm plate, and pour butter on top; keep warm. Wipe out skillet with paper towels.

2 thyme sprigs 1/2

lb. sugar snap peas, trimmed

6 oz. leaf spinach, stemmed (1/2 bunch) 5 oz. dandelion greens, stemmed and chopped (1/2 bunch)

2. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the same skillet, and heat over medium-high. Add sugar snap peas and thinly sliced garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until peas are crisp-tender and garlic is softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in spinach, dandelion greens, and pea shoots, and cook until barely wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in lemon juice, and season to taste with

1 cup pea shoots 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Season scallops to taste with salt and pepper, and add scallops to skillet. Cook until browned on the bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn scallops, and add

22

salt and pepper. Transfer to a platter, and top with scallops and butter. Discard thyme sprigs and whole garlic cloves before serving. WINE: Juicy, lightly herbal Oregon Pinot Gris: 2016 The Eyrie Vineyards Dundee Hills

Want more recipes like the ones gathered here? (Like, 145 more?) Check out F&W Culinary Director Justin Chapple’s new book, Just Cook It!, on sale now. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: (steps) greg dupree. (recipes) jennifer causey. (book) courtesy houghton mifflin harcourt

Halfway through cooking, flip the scallops, and add butter, garlic, and thyme to the skillet. Tilt the pan, allowing the butter to pool on one side. Use a metal spoon to scoop up and pour the infused butter over the scallops.


HANDBOOK

Potato-Crusted Pork Schnitzel with Hot Pepper Mayonnaise Total 30 min; Serves 4

Skip the breadcrumb substitutes—dried potato flakes are the secret to this ultra-crispy, gluten-free schnitzel recipe. 1/4

cup mayonnaise

2 Tbsp. seeded minced cherry pepper 1 Tbsp. minced fresh chives Kosher salt and pepper 3 large eggs 1 1/2 cups dried potato flakes (see Note) 4 (4-oz.) boneless pork chops, lightly pounded to ¼ inch thick 1/4

cup unsalted butter

1/4

cup extra-virgin olive oil Flaky sea salt and lemon wedges, for serving

1. Combine mayonnaise, cherry pepper, and chives in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 2. Beat eggs with a pinch of salt in a shallow bowl. Spread potato flakes in a separate shallow bowl. Season pork chops to taste with salt and pepper. Dip pork chops in egg, letting excess drip back into the bowl. Dredge pork chops in potato flakes, pressing to help flakes adhere. 3. Heat butter and oil in a large skillet over medium-high until butter melts. Working in batches, add pork to skillet, and cook until browned and crispy, about 2 minutes and 30 seconds per side. Transfer pork chops to a paper towel– lined plate. Sprinkle with flaky sea salt, and serve the pork with the hot pepper mayonnaise and lemon wedges. NOTE Dried potato flakes—

aka instant mashed potatoes— are made from dehydrated cooked potatoes and are an outstanding gluten-free substitute for breadcrumbs. WINE Apple-scented dry Ger-

THE TAKEAWAY

DREDGE IN POTATO FLAKES

Dredge pork, chicken, and fish in dried potato flakes before lightly frying in butter to form an insanely crisp crust. Dip the protein in beaten eggs before coating, pressing to help the flakes adhere.

man Riesling: 2016 Dr. Loosen Red Slate F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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M AY 2018


THE TAKEAWAY

HAND-ROLL PASTA

Making fresh pasta at home doesn’t require special equipment, so skip the roller and cutter. Instead, pinch off a 1⁄2-inch piece of homemade dough, and roll it into a small rope.

Pasta with Asparagus and Mushrooms Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr 15 min; Serves 6

This hand-rolled pasta is inspired by cecamariti, a fresh pasta traditionally made using bread dough. Find 00 flour, a fine Italian flour, at specialty food shops and amazon.com. 1 3/4 cups (about 7 oz.) 00 flour 1 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more for seasoning 4 large egg yolks 1 large egg 5 1/2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. extravirgin olive oil, divided 1 lb. mixed mushrooms, cut into bite-size pieces Black pepper 1 lb. asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces 1/2

tsp. crushed red pepper

1/3

cup dry white wine

1/4

cup heavy cream

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Shaved ricotta salata, for serving M AY 2018

1. Place flour and 1 tablespoon salt in a food processor; pulse until combined. Beat egg yolks, whole egg, and 1 1/2 tablespoons oil in a medium bowl. Add egg mixture to food processor, and pulse until dough just comes together. Gradually add water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if dough is too dry or doesn’t come together. Transfer dough to a lightly floured work surface, and knead until very smooth, 5 to 10 minutes. Cover dough with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour. 2. Pinch off a 1/2-inch piece of dough, and roll it between your hands to form a thin 2- to 3-inch-long rope; transfer to a

24

rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough. 3. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil. Cook pasta until al dente, about 7 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup cooking liquid. Toss pasta with 1 teaspoon oil in a bowl to prevent sticking. Wipe out saucepan with paper towels. 4. Add remaining 1/4 cup oil to saucepan, and heat over medium-high. Add mushrooms to pan, and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add asparagus and crushed red pepper, and cook, stirring, until crisp-tender, 2 to

3 minutes. Add wine, and cook, scraping up any browned bits from the pan, until liquid is absorbed, about 2 minutes. 5. Add pasta, heavy cream, lemon juice, and reserved 1/2 cup cooking liquid to pan. Reduce heat to medium, and cook, tossing, until pasta is lightly coated, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Transfer to 6 shallow bowls, and serve immediately with shaved ricotta salata. MAKE AHEAD The uncooked pasta can be covered with plastic and refrigerated overnight. WINE Stony, vivid Grüner Velt-

liner: 2016 Schloss Gobelsburg Gobelsburger F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E


HANDBOOK

Strawberry-Pistachio Sweet Rolls Active 1 hr; Total 6 hr Makes 12 large rolls DOUGH

1 cup whole milk, warmed 1 cup granulated sugar 2 (1/4 -oz.) envelopes active dry yeast (1 1/2 Tbsp.) 1/2

cup plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for greasing

2 large eggs, at room temperature 1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest 1 Tbsp. kosher salt 5 cups (about 21 1/4 oz.) all-purpose flour FILLING

1 lb. strawberries, hulled and chopped 1/4

cup granulated sugar

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1/2

tsp. kosher salt

1/4

tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1/4

cup finely chopped pistachios, plus more for garnish

ICING

1 cup confectioners’ sugar 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 1 Tbsp. whole milk 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Pinch of kosher salt

1. Make the dough: Pour warm milk into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Stir in sugar and yeast, and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. Beat in butter, eggs, lemon zest, and salt at low speed until combined. Switch to the dough hook, add flour, and beat at medium speed until a soft, sticky dough forms, about 5 minutes. 2. Grease a large bowl with butter. Scrape dough onto a lightly floured surface, and knead a few times. Form dough into a ball, and transfer to the

prepared bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, and let stand in a warm place until nearly doubled in size, about 2 hours. 3. Make the filling: Combine strawberries, sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Cook, mashing strawberries with a wooden spoon, until the juices start to release, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until mixture is thickened, 3 to 5 more minutes. Let cool completely. 4. Grease a 9- x 13-inch baking pan with butter. Roll dough to a 10- x 24-inch rectangle on a lightly floured work surface. Spread strawberry mixture evenly over dough, and sprinkle with ¼ cup chopped pistachios. Tightly roll dough to form a

24-inch-long log. Cut the log crosswise into 12 slices, and arrange slices, cut sides up, in the prepared baking pan. Cover pan with plastic wrap, and let rolls rise in a warm place until they fill the pan, about 2 hours.

THE TAKEAWAY

5. Preheat oven to 400°F. Remove plastic wrap from pans, and bake rolls until risen and golden, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool for 30 minutes. 6. Make the icing: Whisk together confectioners’ sugar, butter, milk, lemon juice, and salt in a small bowl until mixture is thickened. Drizzle over rolls; garnish with finely chopped pistachios. Serve warm or at room temperature. MAKE AHEAD The finished, iced rolls can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container overnight.

TIGHTLY ROLL YEAST DOUGH

For beautiful spiral rolls, tightly roll the yeast dough over the filling without applying too much pressure. Be sure to use a large, sharp knife to cut the log into clean, even slices.


HANDBOOK

Bitter Greens with Soft-Boiled Eggs Active 30 min; Total 50 min Serves 4

Bitter greens and a zesty dressing are balanced by the rich, creamy yolks of soft-boiled eggs. Thinly sliced sourdough batons are a delicious take on the crouton—they’re the perfect length for dunking in the yolks, if you like. 2

(1/2 -inch)

sourdough bread slices, cut crosswise into 1/4 -inchthick sticks

5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt and pepper 4 large eggs 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice M AY 2018

1 Tbsp. honey

lower eggs into boiling water, and cook for exactly 7 minutes. Plunge eggs into a bowl of ice water; let stand until cool. Drain well. Carefully peel and halve eggs.

8 cups torn inner escarole leaves (6 oz.) 1 small radicchio head, cored and chopped 1 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

3. Whisk together lemon juice, honey, and remaining 1/4 cup olive oil in a large bowl, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add escarole, radicchio, and parsley, and toss well to coat. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and toss again. Transfer to 4 plates or a platter, and arrange eggs and bread sticks on top. Generously dust the salad with pimentón, and serve immediately.

Pimentón de la Vera (smoked sweet Spanish paprika), for dusting

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Toss together bread sticks and 1 tablespoon olive oil on a large rimmed baking sheet, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Bake in preheated oven until golden and just crisp, about 10 minutes. Let cool. 2. Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Using a slotted spoon, carefully

MAKE AHEAD Soft-boiled eggs can be refrigerated overnight.

26

THE TAKEAWAY

ICE SOFT-BOILED EGGS

When serving soft-boiled eggs, your goal is jammy yolks and perfectly firm whites. Cook eggs in boiling water for exactly 7 minutes; place in a bowl of ice water to cool completely before peeling.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E


HANDBOOK

Smashed Cucumber Salad with Butter Beans and Tarragon Total 20 min; Serves 4

Smashing cucumbers releases their aroma and creates nooks and crannies that soak up dressing. Here, Justin combines the crisp cucumbers with rich butter beans and a zingy vinaigrette for a quick and easy dinner salad. 1 lb. Persian cucumbers, halved crosswise 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar 1 Tbsp. minced shallot 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard Kosher salt and pepper 1 (15-oz.) can butter beans, drained and rinsed 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon

1. Working with one cucumber half at a time, use the side of a large knife to lightly crush the cucumber. Repeat with remaining cucumber halves. Tear crushed cucumbers into chunks. 2. Whisk together oil, vinegar, shallot, and mustard in a serving bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Fold in crushed cucumbers, butter beans, and tarragon. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve.

THE TAKEAWAY

SMASH CUCUMBERS

Place a large knife flat on top of a cucumber half with the blade facing away from you. Lightly crush it with your other hand, and then tear it into chunks before dressing.

M AY 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E


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WINE FLIGHT

A Wine Walkabout Western Australia’s Margaret River is home to some of the world’s finest Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons. It isn’t exactly easily accessible—the region is three hours south of Perth, itself a five-hour flight from Sydney—but towering karri tree forests, stunning coastlines, and extraordinary wines make the trek well worth it.

photography: courtesy vasse felix

BY RAY ISLE

Head chef Brendan Pratt at Vasse Felix, Margaret River’s oldest winery.

M AY 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E


GOOD. BETTER. BELGIAN. (BELGIAN CHOCOL ATE IN EVERY BITE)


WINE FLIGHT

TASTE

EAT & DRINK

EXPLORE

8:30 A.M.

HOW VIRTUOUS DO YOU FEEL? Grab a locally roasted coffee at Sidekick, a sunny café on the town of Margaret River’s main street, and, depending on your approach to life, fortify yourself either with a glutenfree, vegetarian savory muffin (shamefully tasty despite its healthfulness) or an equally delectable bacon-and-egg wrap with housemade tomato relish. 5/110 Bussell Hwy., Margaret River; settlerstavern.com/view/sidekick-cafe

3:30 P.M.

HISTORY IN A GLASS Two minutes away, stop in at Margaret River’s oldest winery, Vasse Felix. Book a tour to visit both the estate’s original vineyards and the cellar, ending with a staff-led private tasting. If the Heytesbury Chardonnay isn’t open to taste, buy a bottle—it’s one of Australia’s greatest white wines. Caves Rd. at Tom Cullity Dr., Margaret River; vassefelix.com.au

9:45 A.M.

NATURAL ORIENTATION Drive 45 minutes north to the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse, built in 1903 from local limestone, and climb up to the observation platform. You’ll find spectacular views of the Margaret River wine region, the Geographe Bay coastline, the Indian Ocean, and, potentially, migrating whales (the season is from September to December). 1267 Cape Naturaliste Rd., Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park; margaretriver.com

5:30 P.M.

PRISTINE SILENCE Check into the Losari Retreat for the night. his boutique resort is tucked amid the trees 10 minutes from the town of Margaret River on the edge of the Wooditjup Natural Park. Take your pick of the six private villas, soak in the outdoor whirlpool spas overlooking the property’s lake and gardens, and explore the 66 acres of forest groves, granite bridges, and fountains. Doubles from $225 per night; 498 Osmington Rd., Margaret River; losariretreat.com.au

11 A.M.

TROPHY TASTING It’s a 25-minute drive to Deep Woods Estate, where winemaker Julian Langworthy makes some of Australia’s most acclaimed reds (they’re not currently imported to the U.S., so this is your chance to try them). Taste the layered, black currant-y 2015 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon—the 2014 vintage won the Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy, Australia’s most prestigious wine award, and the ’15 is no less impressive. 889 Commonage Rd., Yallingup; deepwoods.wine

7:30 P.M.

HIDDEN TREASURE Pop back into the town of Margaret River to hit Settlers Tavern. his local favorite seems for all the world like a classic, casual Aussie tavern—live local bands, sports on the TV, pool tables—but when it comes to wine and food, the comparison ends. Local line-caught fish, Southern Ocean oysters, excellent steaks (using Western Australian beef), and a vast wine list featuring older vintages from the best local producers (try a bottle of the nuanced 2008 Moss Wood Cabernet, for instance) make it a must-visit. 114 Bussell Hwy., Margaret River; settlerstavern.com

12:30 P.M.

BIODYNAMIC BOUNTY As you head south along Caves Road past forest and vineyards (and, more than likely, kangaroos), you’ll hit Cullen Wines. Founded in 1971, it’s now run by the brilliant

Sidekick Café

Cullen Wines

Hohnen’s pigs

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: (clockwise from left) elements margaret river, tim campbell, courtesy the farm house margaret river

DAY 1

winemaker-owner and overall force of nature Vanya Cullen. Take a self-guided tour through the property’s biodynamic garden to understand her eco-friendly approach to farming, and then have lunch in the restaurant. Chef Iain Robertson focuses on local ingredients for dishes such as Manjimup marron (a species of large freshwater crayfish) with kimchi cucumbers—ideal with the winery’s 2016 Kevin John Chardonnay. 4323 Caves Rd., Wilyabrup; cullenwines.com.au


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Kangaroos gather at sunset outside the town of Margaret River.

the way back, stop at Boranup Gallery, which sells lovely burl wood bowls and other housewares from local artisans. 7981 Caves Rd., Margaret River; boranupgallery.com

DAY 2

3 P.M.

8:30 A.M.

COFFEE ON THE BEACH

OAK AND SMOKE

Perched above the white sands of Gnarabup Beach, right outside Margaret River, is the White Elephant Beach Café. Grab a table overlooking the turquoise water, order a baconand-avocado (or avo, if you’re a casual, beach-dwelling Aussie) on rye with feta and pepitas, and follow it up with a morning stroll down the beach. whiteelephantcafe.com.au

Stop in at McHenry Hohnen, home to some of the region’s best Chardonnays (try the complex Burnside Vineyard, from the winery’s oldest vines). he smoky aroma here isn’t from toasted barrels, though: First-rate sausages and cured hams from cofounder David Hohnen’s he Farm House project are also available. Stock up! 5962 Caves Rd., Margaret River; mchenryhohnen.com.au

10:15 A.M.

ULTIMATE TASTING AND LUNCH

4:30 P.M.

In 1972, Denis and Tricia Horgan transformed an old cattle ranch into Leeuwin Estate, one of Margaret River’s most celebrated wine producers. Book in advance for the Ultimate Degustation Experience ($200): a behind-the-scenes tour, tasting of Leeuwin’s top wines, and seven-course lunch in the winery’s superb restaurant. Dishes like local abalone with black bean, tomato, and enoki mushrooms are matched with older vintages from the cellar. leeuwinestate.com.au

Xanadu’s name may summon alarming memories of the bad ’80s movie starring Aussie pop star Olivia Newton-John, but the wines at this pioneering Margaret River winery are uniformly excellent. Make sure to try the 2014 Reserve Cabernet, a standout at the region’s 50th anniversary tasting last year. Boodjidup Rd., Margaret River; xanaduwines.com 6:30 P.M.

2 P.M.

RELAX AND RETURN

GET WILD

For dinner head to Swings Taphouse & Kitchen, a low-key local-winemaker haunt. he wines on tap are excellent, as are the local beers. Share some rock oysters and a pizza—go for the Bufalina, with buffalo mozzarella, wood-fired tomatoes, and wild olives. Relax. And maybe decide to stay another day. 85 Bussell Hwy., Margaret River; swings.com.au

After lunch, drive south on Caves Road, and turn right on unpaved Boranup Drive, which winds through a gorgeous forest of slender, towering karri trees, a native species found only in Western Australia. At the lookout spot, get out and gaze over the forest canopy to the waters of Hamelin Bay. On

M AY 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: kevin judd/cephas

PASS THE CABERNET


Help those living and working with cancer to put on their brave faces every day.

Visit QVC.com and search Beauty with Benefits to learn more and show your support.

Tune in THURSDAY, APRIL 26 at 7pm ET • QVC.com/BeautyWithBenefits

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BOTTLE SERVICE

On the Rocks MINERALITY IS THE WINE BUZZWORD OF THE MOMENT. BUT WHAT DOES IT MEAN, EXACTLY? BY RAY ISLE

2016 MESSMER MUSCHELKALK RIESLING FEINHERB $20 Name your wine after the fossil-bearing limestone soils its vines grow in (“Muschelkalk”) and it had better express some kind of mineral character. Appropriately, this does: It smells of wet stones and flowers, and with its very light sweetness and racy acidity, it would be great with Thai food.

H

ERE’S A SIMPLE TEST: “hat 2016 Blockenhocker Riesling has incredible minerality.” If you are a wine geek, you will read that and think, “Absolutely.” But if you are a normal human, even a wine-loving one, you will think, “Huh? You mean it tastes like rocks?” Well, yes. And no. Wine does not, of course, taste like rocks; rocks, generally speaking, don’t taste of anything (and if you bite them, you break your teeth). Yet some wines, most often white, have a kind of ... stoniness. Or mineral character. Or something. he aroma and taste of Chablis can recall the bottom of a box of blackboard chalk (in a good way). he flinty-smoky note in PouillyFumé is so distinct that it gave the wine its name (fumée: smoke). Other wines can taste a tiny bit salty or saline. In a way, minerality is the umami of the wine world. Umami is the term for savoriness, the fifth taste. Neither sweet, sour, salty, nor bitter, it’s—well, it’s hard to describe, right? Meaty, maybe? It’s real—technically it has to do with how glutamic acid binds to your taste buds— but the problem is describing it. So, too, with minerality. It does occur; how and why remains somewhat of a mystery. To try to discern it yourself, your best bets are usually lightly or unoaked whites from cool-climate regions. Conveniently, these crisp wines are also great for spring drinking: Serve them with everything from raw oysters to cacio e pepe with fresh fava beans.

M AY 2018

2016 DR. LOOSEN BLUE SLATE RIESLING KABINETT $22 This lightly sweet German wine literally made me throw my hands up and yell, “That’s it!” because whatever minerality actually is, it’s here in spades. I walked all the way back to my desk feeling like I was sucking on a pebble. 2016 LO TRIOLET VALLÉE D’AOSTE PINOT GRIS $25 A light touch of smokiness lifts from this lovely, nectarineinflected Pinot Gris from Italy’s tiny Valle d’Aosta region. 2016 MASTROBERARDINO NOVASERRA GRECO DI TUFO $25 Is it chalky? Slaty? Both? Any way, this green appley, southern Italian white has an unmistakable minerality (which is characteristic of this grape variety).

38

2016 ESTATE ARGYROS SANTORINI ASSYRTIKO $28 This Greek white suggests talc or clay more than stones: Call it earthy. Add to that this wine’s lemonzesty liveliness, and it’s a great combination, not to mention incredibly refreshing. 2016 DOMAINE LONG-DEPAQUIT CHABLIS $28 One of my favorite words ever aptly describes the aroma of Chablis like this one. That’s “petrichor,” which means the scent produced when rain falls on dry soil. It comes from the Greek words petra, meaning stone, and ichor, or the fluid that flows through the veins of the gods. 2016 MASSICAN GEMINA $30 For his Massican project, Napa Valley winemaker Dan Petroski focuses on northern Italian white varieties—like this crisp blend of Pinot Grigio and Greco with a finish that has a distinctly seaside salinity. 2015 FRANKLAND ESTATE ISOLATION RIDGE RIESLING $40 This totally dry Riesling from Australia’s remote Frankland River region smells flinty, like a rock hit with a hammer, yet its bright, zingy flavor recalls fresh limes. 2015 DENIS JEANDEAU SECRET MINÉRAL POUILLYFUISSÉ $66 A light touch of oak on this subtly spicy white Burgundy doesn’t obscure the distinctive struck-flint note here. Jeandeau, a young winemaker in the Mâconnais, farms organically (working the soil by hand or with horses) and uses only native yeasts in his winemaking.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: (from top to bottom) courtesy loosen bros. usa, courtesy quintessential, courtesy domaines albert bichot, courtesy loosen bros. usa, courtesy the winebow group

2016 FRITZ HAAG RIESLING TROCKEN $20 Sometimes German Rieslings have acidity that almost tingles on your tongue—one winemaker described it to me as “fizzy” (though there’s no actual fizz). This one has that, plus peach aromas and a drying end that’s like moisture soaking into slate.


THE VISION

of

ROBERT MONDAVI A Bold Look into the Future An innovative tribute to the man who inspired the valley, each blend of MAESTRO is a unique celebration of the vintage and our estate vineyards, To Kalon and Wappo Hill.

RobertMondaviWinery.com/Visit-Us Please enjoy our wine responsibly. © 2018 Robert Mondavi Winery, Oakville, CA.


HELP SAVE THE FRIDGE Spitsbergen, Norway. © Wild Wonders of Europe / Ole Joergen Liodden / WWF


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TRAVEL JOURNAL

Postcard from TV PERSONALITY ANDREW ZIMMERN SHARES DELICIOUS DISCOVERIES FROM HIS ADVENTURES ON THE ROAD.

M AY 2018

The village of Atrani on Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula.

ever tasted. he wild herbs from the rocky highlands are without peer. Pasta lovers should plan a pilgrimage to the town of Gragnano, a hub of commercial dried pasta production, where today’s visitors can enjoy pasta made from ancient rescued wheat varietals. And the seafood, well, it’s deservedly legendary, as I learned near the seaside city of Ravello, where I devoured obscenely fresh, gemlike baby red squid braised in white wine with tomatoes and potatoes (see p. 42 for a similar recipe). he food of the Amalfi Coast is representative of the ideals of Italian food and what gives it such wide appeal: It’s seasonal, simple, and micro-regional. he next best thing to visiting there (which you should absolutely do) is cooking recipes taken from the place itself. 40

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: buena vista images/getty images

W

ITH ITS MOUNTAINTOP

villages and romantic seaside towns, the Amalfi Coast is one of the most traveled locales on our planet. he entire area—a scenic peninsula south of Naples that juts into the Tyrrhenian Sea—is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But what’s less known is that this stretch of shoreline is home to some of the best food in the world. Since the Middle Ages, people have been making ingenious use of the land, with delicious results: Apples, pears, and other fruits and vegetables that we associate with cool weather seasons are farmed at elevation, and terraced gardens on the steep hillsides grow the region’s famously perfumed lemons. From Sorrento to Salerno, everywhere you go, there are lemons. And the lemons come in over a dozen shapes, sizes, and species. (My favorite tasted like a cross between a lemon and a sweet grapefruit). hey’re not just in the food (like the stellar pasta in a lemon-cream sauce I sampled in Sorrento, see p. 42) or in the roadside fruit stands, but they’re also in paintings, frescoes, sculptures, backyards, front yards, hotel gardens, and, yes, even growing in public parks and on the streets, sidewalks, and storefronts. Limoncello is famously made here, lip-smacking homemade concoctions that put syrupy commercial versions to shame. The cured meats, especially those from the town of Agerola, are some of the best I’ve


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TRAVEL JOURNAL

Total 40 min; Serves 4

The Amalfi Coast’s legendary citrus adds zip to pasta.

The cooks at Mamma Agata’s— a famed culinary school on the Amalfi Coast—shared this recipe for pristine seafood in a white wine braise. 1 lb. head-on jumbo shrimp 6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 2 medium shallots, minced (about 1/3 cup) 1 1/2 tsp. seeded minced serrano chile (about 1 medium) 2 tsp. dried oregano 13 oz. baby Yukon Gold potatoes, quartered (about 2 cups) 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced (about 1 tsp.) 1/2

cup white wine

3 cups ripe cherry tomatoes (about 1 lb.) 1 1/4 tsp. kosher salt

Creamy Lemon Pasta Active 15 min; Total 20 min Serves 4

All along the Amalfi Coast, sweet, fragrant lemons are a signature ingredient in dishes. They shine in this comforting, simple pasta dish from L’Antica Trattoria in Sorrento. 4 qt. water 2 Tbsp. plus 3/4 tsp. kosher salt 3/4

cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp. Meyer lemon zest 1 tsp. honey 3 medium shallots, minced (about 1/2 cup) 1 cup heavy cream 1 lb. dried fettuccine 2 Tbsp. fresh Meyer lemon juice 3 oz. grated ParmigianoReggiano cheese (about 3/4 cup) 1/2

tsp. freshly ground black pepper, for garnish

1/3

cup Meyer lemon supremes, for garnish

M AY 2018

1. Bring 4 quarts water to a rapid boil in a large pot, and season with 2 tablespoons kosher salt.

1/4

tsp. ground white pepper

1/2

cup torn fresh basil

1. Using a knife, make a 1/4-inchdeep cut along the back of each shrimp shell from head to tail.

Head-on shrimp infuse this summery dish with intense, satisfying flavor.

2. Meanwhile, heat oil and lemon zest in a large skillet over medium. Add remaining 3/4 teaspoon salt, honey, and shallots, and cook until shallots are softened and oil is hot, about 5 minutes. Whisk in cream. Let simmer 2 minutes.

Leave shell and head intact. Using a small moistened paper towel and a paring knife, remove and discard the vein. Pat shrimp dry, and set aside. 2. Heat 1/4 cup oil in a very large skillet over medium-high until shimmering and very hot. Add shrimp, and sear until shells are scorched, about 1 minute. Transfer shrimp to a plate. 3. Reduce heat to medium. Add shallots, chile, and oregano, and sauté until shallots are sizzling, about 30 seconds. Add potatoes and garlic, cover, and cook, shaking pan often, until edges of potatoes begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Uncover, add wine, and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is nearly evaporated, 5 to 6 minutes. 4. Add tomatoes, cover, and cook until tomatoes start to split and release their juices and potatoes are tender, about 8 minutes. Add shrimp, and cook, turning occasionally, until shrimp are cooked through and tomatoes are soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt and white pepper; stir in basil. Divide among 4 shallow bowls, drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and serve. WINE Rich, earthy Falanghina:

2016 Terredora di Paolo

3. Cook pasta in the boiling water until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup cooking liquid; drain. Add lemon juice to noodles; toss well to combine. The pasta will absorb the juice. 4. Stir cheese and 1/4 cup reserved cooking liquid into skillet with cream sauce. Add pasta, and toss to coat well. Add remaining 1/4 cup reserved cooking liquid if necessary. Divide among 4 bowls, and garnish with pepper and Meyer lemon supremes. WINE Bright, citrusy

Campanian white: 2016 Colli di Lapio Fiano di Avellino

42

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: victor protasio; food styling: chelsea zimmer; prop styling: mindi shapiro levine

Shrimp with Potatoes and Tomatoes


WHERE TO GO NEXT

Hidden Treasures WITH A THRIVING NATURAL WINE SCENE AND RESTAURANTS REMIXING WESTERN AND JAPANESE TRADITIONS, THE CITY OF KUMAMOTO IS JAPAN’S BEST-KEPT SECRET. BY MARI UYEHARA

Portions of Kumamoto Castle were damaged in a recent earthquake; parts of the grounds are still open during reconstruction.

photography: danita delimont/alamy

W

sipping green tea out of a frosty glass in an otherwise empty café one steamy afternoon in Kumamoto, a sleepy city of 740,000 on Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan’s four main islands, it felt like the end of a treasure hunt. he entrance to Sakamura was obscured by green vines, and the place had no sign outside, so locating it had taken some work. I’d first heard about Sakamura from the hip, English-speaking baristas at a stylish café, And Coffee Roasters; later, the young owners of other shops around town smiled approvingly when I told them I was headed there. So when I finally walked through the entrance, I felt a surge of explorer’s pride. Inside, owner Takeshi Sakamura’s twin passions of ikebana—flower arrangement—and wire sculpture were on display in Calder-like mobiles that dangled from the ceiling, slowly twisting and turning in a soft breeze. Jazz crackled on the stereo. You won’t find a listing for Sakamura in any guidebooks. But if you want to find the best in a country where humility is valued over self-promotion, seeking out quiet, unadvertised wonder is always the way to go. his especially holds true in understated Kumamoto, which is most famous for its 400-year-old castle and pristine drinking water. In recent years, a loose collective of young chefs and artists have set up shop in this laid-back city, making it an ideal retreat for good, traditional food and great shopping. HEN I FINALLY FOUND MYSELF

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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What to Eat & Drink Kumamoto is home to an established natural wine scene; the wines’ slightly funky quality is an ideal accompaniment to the local food. At Kijiya (7-17 Minamitsuboimachi), try the classic Japanese bar snack, okonomiyaki (recipe p. 46), deftly cooked right in front of you, alongside a 2015 Domaine de Saint Pierre Chardonnay from Jura, France. NINi (2-3-37 Tsuboi), a dreamy minimalist nightspot, serves natural wines from Italy and France with its mixed menu of Japanese (curry, pickles) and continental M AY 2018


WHERE TO GO NEX T

cuisine (quiche, spaghetti with bitter greens). If ramen is what you’re after, head to the oldschool Tengaiten (2-15 Anseimachi) for its regional pork bone broth mixed with chicken stock, thick noodles, and a potent dose of garlic and scallions. Or, if you’re feeling adventurous (and willing to risk the raised eyebrows of friends back in the U.S.), head to Asunaro (7-17 Minamitsuboimachi) and ask for sakura nikku. Kumamoto’s most famous local delicacy, it translates to “cherry blossom meat”—a poetic name for horse. At Asunaro it’s lightly seared and served over rice. The restaurant also serves sashimi and vegetable plates; the young couple who runs it also offers a fine sake selection. Lastly, as in any up-and-coming city in coffee-obsessed Japan, serious coffee shops have colonized Kumamoto. In addition to And Coffee Roasters (11-22 Kamitoricho; andcoffeeroasters .com) and Sakamura (5-15 Minamisendanbatamachi), stop by Gluck Coffee Spot (5-52 Jotomachi; gluckcoffeespot.jp), which has a more traditional vibe with its wood-clad interior.

Off the main strip of the Shimotori, Lotus (10-7 Kamitoricho) hawks bohemian fashions from emerging designers. Below the restaurant NINi, Ajouter (2-3-34-2F-A Tsuboi; ajouter-store.com) offers a mix of workwear, ceramics, and jewelry. At Kurasu (9-28 Suidocho; kurasukumamoto .blogspot.jp) you’ll find handmade leather clogs and housewares.

Where to Stay Check into Hotel Nikko Kumamoto’s Japanese Suite with its cypress wood bath (2-1 Kamitoricho; nikko-kumamoto .co.jp; rooms from $100). M AY 2018

Okonomiyaki Total 25 min; Serves 4

Flavored with umami-rich bonito flakes, this savory cabbage pancake is ideal drinking food. Pair with sake, beer, and natural wine. 1 cup all-purpose flour (about 4 1/4 oz.) 1 cup prepared dashi 2 large eggs 4 cups thinly sliced green cabbage (about 10 oz.) 1/4

cup chopped bonito flakes

1 Tbsp. salted butter 8 (1- x 3-inch) 1/4 -inch-thick pork belly slices (about 4 oz.) 3 Tbsp. okonomiyaki sauce or sweet barbecue sauce 2 Tbsp. mayonnaise (preferably Kewpie) 3 Tbsp. ground bonito flakes 2 Tbsp. slivered beni shoga (Japanese pickled ginger) 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced nori

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1. Whisk together flour, dashi, and eggs until well incorporated. Fold in cabbage and chopped bonito flakes. 2. Melt butter in a 10-inch nonstick skillet or flat griddle over medium. Spread batter evenly in skillet, and top evenly with pork belly slices in a single layer. Cover and cook until bottom is browned, 6 to 8 minutes. 3. Slide pancake onto a large plate or cutting board. Place skillet over pancake and, holding plate and skillet firmly together, invert pancake into skillet, pork side down. Cook over medium until pork is browned and pancake is heated through, about 10 minutes. 4. Invert okonomiyaki onto plate, pork side up. Brush or drizzle with okonomiyaki sauce, and dollop or drizzle with mayonnaise. Sprinkle with ground bonito flakes, beni shoga, and nori. Cut into wedges, and serve immediately. WINE Savory Chardonnay from Jura,

France: 2015 Domaine de Saint Pierre F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: victor protasio; food styling: chelsea zimmer; prop styling: mindi shapiro levine

Where to Shop

Cabbage and pork belly okonomiyaki is garnished with Kewpie mayonnaise, nori, ginger, bonito flakes, and barbecue-like okonomiyaki sauce.


Go the Long Way

START

TWO CHEFS MAKE TWO CROSSCOUNTRY RESTAURANT PILGRIMAGES—ONE WITH A TODDLER, THE OTHER WITH A VERY SPECIAL BARREL OF WHISKEY. FINISH

SINGLETHREAD

DENVER

(SONOMA)

LAS VEGAS FROM LEFT:

The Canlis brothers haul whiskey to Eleven Madison Park; the restaurateurs embrace; the team’s VW Vanagon Doka.

CANLIS GOES EAST Because when your best friend lands at the top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, you don’t just send flowers. BY ELYSE INAMINE

A

T LAST YEAR’S WORLD’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS

awards, Eleven Madison Park, the fine-dining mecca run by Will Guidara and chef Daniel Humm in New York City, won the top spot on the list, and Brian Canlis, the co-owner of Canlis in Seattle, woke up at 4 a.m. to watch the awards ceremony unfold online. Canlis and Guidara are old friends, and their restaurants have a special relationship. “hey’re our sister restaurant. heir ideas line up with ours,” says Guidara. “It’s amazing to have a restaurant on the other side of the country that feels like home,” says Canlis. So what do you do when your favorite restaurant sibling wins the biggest dining accolade in the world? he Canlis team hatched a plan. Years ago, F&W reported on the Canlis brothers’ search for a barrel of the best whiskey in Scotland. hey’d fallen in love with an 18-year-old single malt Springbank but were unable to acquire a cask of it. After the story was published, a Florida reader reached out, asking if they’d like to take his barrel of 20-year-old Springbank. Since then, the Canlis team has sold exactly one shot of that whiskey, at $100 an ounce, to a M AY 2018

Seattle billionaire who’d requested their most expensive offering. After that, it felt wrong to sell off any more of the gift. “What if the price of drinking from the barrel is having the courage to share how you hope to grow?” Canlis posed. He gave it a go with his staff. At first it was awkward to open up in front of a group, but then breakthroughs started to happen. “People would cry for an hour; soon guests were asking to try it,” Canlis says. “Our staff made it a ritual every New Year’s Eve. It became this mystical, magical thing.” hat vulnerable experience—of sharing hopes and dreams, nursed with a shot of priceless whiskey—is what the Canlises wanted to give to Eleven Madison Park. So they loaded the Springbank into an old green Volkswagen Vanagon Doka and hit the pavement. Fourteen staff members drove the van in shifts on a 4,300-mile, two-week road trip from Seattle to New York City, taking detours along the way to invite chef and restaurateur friends to toast the Eleven Madison Park team. hey meandered into Northern California to catch up with Christopher Kostow and David Kinch, stopped in Chicago to sit down with Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas, and somehow snuck into New York to chat with Dan Barber under Guidara’s nose. 48

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E


START

CHICAGO

FINISH

ELEVEN MADISON PARK

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

Baltzley in the Badlands in South Dakota; canapés on the rooftop at SingleThread in Sonoma County; wife Laura and daughter Faunus in Yellowstone.

(NEW YORK CITY)

BALTZLEY GOES WEST Why Brandon Baltzley drove from Massachusetts to California for a single meal.

photography: (east) jeremy beasley, (west) brandon baltzley

BY BRANDON BALTZLEY

Filmmaker Jeremy P. Beasley sat in the back of the Doka and filmed the whole thing—right up to the moment when the Canlis brothers hauled the barrel up the steps to Eleven Madison Park. And that’s the footage Guidara, Humm, and the Eleven Madison Park team were watching at the restaurant when the Canlis brothers burst in with the actual whiskey. “It was insane,” says Guidara. “But the craziest part is the gift that they gave to the team, the gift of feeling loved and honored but also the hour after, when everyone on my team talked about what they had learned.” Once they all had their say and sip, Canlis remembers what Guidara said to him in tears. Five words: “I love you. Game on.” Not too long after, a truck showed up at Canlis with 400 Zalto wine glasses. “People become jaded when they lose perspective, but friends like Brian restore perspective,” says Guidara. “hey remind you we’re so blessed to do this on a daily basis.”

T

Check out foodandwine.com/canlisroadtrip to watch the video and read the full story. F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

O SAY I HAVE A FEAR OF FLYING WOULD BE FAR TOO

gentle. It would be better to say I have a kneeshaking, spine-tingling phobia of being catapulted into the sky in a magic steel death tube. It wasn’t always this way. Years ago—when I was still touring with a metal band, before I was husband to Laura and father to 1-year-old daughter Faunus—I could zigzag the lower 48 without incident. We’d arrive in a city, play a set, pass out on a stranger’s living room floor, and do it all over again the next day. hen, on a flight to Miami in 2013, my plane took a brief but terrifying nosedive, and the seeds of anxiety were sown. Here’s another understatement for you: Traveling has become a bit of a challenge. So yes, maybe I’ve lost the taste for the journey, but not the destination. Every year, Laura and I try to check out one big, important restaurant, and this year I knew it had to be Singlehread in Sonoma County, California. I met chef Kyle Connaughton a few years back at an event in Chicago, and I’ve been following him ever since. In many ways, Singlehread is everything I want my restaurant, he Buffalo Jump in Cape Cod, Massachusetts, to be: the symbiotic relationship between

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M AY 2018


SUMMER

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ROAD TRIP

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

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Y CA

PITAL

farm and kitchen, the kind of hospitality you can only get when everyone in the kitchen is family. But Sonoma is a long drive from Cape Cod. I know this, because after dinner service one Monday night last August, Laura and I stuffed Faunus into our Ford Escape with some homemade pemmican, a cooler, bear spray, and an air mattress that fit over our back seat, and we took off for the two-week, 10,000-mile pilgrimage to what I was sure would prove to be the best new restaurant in America. he journey first took us through Chicago, where we visited chefs David and Anna Posey’s restaurant, Elske. It’s a complicated thing to eat in a nice restaurant with a kid, but David and Anna made it fun, and Faunus surprised us by really digging the chicken liver tartlet. By the end of the meal, she was walking around the dining room like she was running for mayor. hings got a lot less fancy after that. We set up camp in the Badlands, an extraterrestrial landscape of stone spires and buttes in South Dakota. We chased prairie dogs We stuffed into our and wild bison, slept three across the air mattress using our body heat to keep Ford Escape with warm, and built a very illegal fire to cook some homemade the trout and huckleberries we picked up pemmican, a cooler, at a local shop. bear spray, and an hose tangy berries followed us at air mattress that fit farm stands all the way out to the West over our back seat, Coast. We spotted them on the way to and we took off for Deadwood, South Dakota, where we the two-week, accidentally bumped into hundreds of 10,000-mile bikers at the annual Sturgis Motorcycle pilgrimage to what Rally. I got roped into a poker game there and woke up the next day hungover, I was sure would with a thick wad of cash in my pocket. prove to be the best We ate huckleberries en route to Yellownew restaurant in stone National Park, where I watched America. Laura and Faunus dance in front of Old Faithful. And we saw huckleberries in a pie at a roadside diner that could have been a Twin Peaks set piece—it inspired my own version, with a flaky shortbread crust (recipe p. 52). But by the time we reached Sonoma, we were ready for a real meal. We arrived at Singlehread wicked early and didn’t want to betray how eager we were for the experience, so we killed time driving around the town of Healdsburg. We must have looked out of place with our car busting at its seams—an old woman walked by and welcomed us to California. And after a few more hours of unsuccessfully lying low, we returned to Singlehread. Kyle and his wife, Singlehread’s head farmer Katina Connaughton, gave us a tour of the farm, where they grow a lot of the Japanese produce used in the restaurant kitchen. We ate trout again, this time cooked gently in a clay donabe. We ate porridge infused with stinging nettle and, for dessert, tiny blue chocolate eggs in straw nests. I ended the night with my wife on a balcony, with a bottle of Jim Beam and a sense of contentment. So was Singlehread worth the trip? When I think about it now, the destination is inextricable from the journey—and in that way, it was the best meal of my life.

CULIN

AR

C aribbean CULINARY EXPERIENCES APPROVED BY KIDS OF ALL AGES

Bon Vivant Cooking Classes Interactive culinary class for kids, featuring local ingredients and recipes geared towards healthier options.

The Brasserie Culinary Tours Get creative in the kitchen with freshlycaught fish and organic fruits, vegetables and herbs straight from their garden.

Ambassadors in the Kitchen at The Ritz-Carlton An epicurean adventure for budding chefs, creating local delicacies from ingredients they pick themselves.

kidsculinarycapital.com


ROAD TRIP

Jammy Huckleberry and Butter Pie, inspired by Baltzley’s road trip.

Active 35 min; Total 6 hr 20 min Serves 10

Tart huckleberries melt into a jammy pie filling. Sumac and violet extract heighten the floral aroma of the berries. Cool the pie completely before slicing. 6 cups fresh or frozen huckleberries or wild blueberries (about 1 1/2 lb.) 1 cup unsalted butter 1 1/2

cups plus 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar, divided

3/4

cup all-purpose flour (about 3 1/4 oz.)

1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt 3 Tbsp. ground sumac (optional) 3 drops violet extract (optional) Double-Crust Pie Dough (recipe follows) 1 large egg yolk whisked with 1 tsp. water

1. Combine huckleberries and butter in a large saucepan over medium-high, and bring to a simmer, stirring often. Reduce heat to medium-low to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook, stirring often, until berries have thickened and mixture has reduced to 3 cups, about 25 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl; let cool 30

M AY 2018

minutes. Add 1 1/2 cups sugar, flour, salt, and, if desired, sumac and violet extract; stir to combine. Chill until ready to use. 2. Preheat oven to 425°F with rack in lower third of oven. Place a rimmed baking sheet in oven (do not remove pan while oven preheats). Line a 9 1/2-inch deep-dish pie plate with 1 pie crust. Chill 20 minutes. 3. Spoon huckleberry mixture into chilled crust. Top with remaining pie crust. Trim edges, and crimp to seal. Lightly brush top crust with egg wash, cut vents in crust, and sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. 4. Place pie plate on preheated baking sheet, and bake at 425°F for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F, and bake until crust is golden brown and filling is set, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Loosely cover with foil after 35 to 40 minutes to prevent overbrowning. Place pie on wire rack to cool completely, at least 4 hours. MAKE AHEAD The filling can be made 3 days ahead. Chill until ready to assemble pie. Pie can be baked 3 days ahead; cool, cover with plastic wrap, and chill. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Double-Crust Pie Dough Active 15 min; Total 1 hr 15 min Makes 2 pie crusts

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Lots of good, cold butter and chilling the dough makes this pie crust layered and super-flaky. The dough can be frozen— thaw it in the refrigerator before baking. 3 cups all-purpose flour (about 12 3/4 oz.), plus more for dusting 2 tsp. granulated sugar 1 1/2

tsp. kosher salt

1 cup unsalted butter (8 oz.), chilled and cut into 1/2 -inch pieces 10 Tbsp. ice water 1. Combine flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor. Pulse until blended, about 5 times. Add butter, and pulse until pea-size pieces form, about 10 times. Drizzle in 8 tablespoons ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and pulse until just moist, about 10 times. Add up to 2 additional tablespoons ice water if necessary. (Dough will be very crumbly.) Remove dough to a clean work surface, and squeeze dough together to form a ball. Divide dough in half, and shape each half into a 5-inch disk. Wrap each half in plastic wrap, and chill 1 hour. 2. Remove dough from refrigerator. Unwrap and dust lightly with flour. Roll each half into a 12-inch (1/4-inch-thick) circle. Layer between sheets of plastic wrap, and chill until ready to use.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: greg dupree; food styling: torie cox; prop styling: alistair turnbull

Huckleberry and Butter Pie


:H  G L S S H G  L W  L Q  ' 2 9 ( Š  ' D U N  & K R F R O D W H   G X V W H G  L W  Z L W K  D  N L F N  R I  F L Q Q D P R Q ',6&29(51(:'$5.&+2&2/$7(&,11$021'867('$/021'6 ‹0DUVRU$IILOLDWHV

Choose Pleasure

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AT YOUR

Service When the inherently human experience of eating out collides with consumer expectations in the Uber age, things can go sideways quickly. More than ever, today’s diners’ actions can make or break the experience. We partnered with Culinary Agents, a marketplace for talent in the hospitality business, to poll their more than 400,000 members, and we asked the chefs and restaurateurs at the top of their game what restaurant guests can do to help make their nights out the best they can be—for everyone involved. BY SCOTT DESIMON ILLUSTRATIONS BY JONATHAN CARLSON

M AY 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E


Trademarks owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A., Vevey, Switzerland

FINALLY, SALMON LIKE YOURS BUT MADE FOR HER

Break it

Flake it

A Delicious Snack

The Perfect Topper

Serve it Whole A Filet To Feast On

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VE IS IN THE DETAILS Learn. Shop. Share. At FancyFeast.com/Filets


What does it mean to be a five-star restaurant guest, and why does it matter? We asked the ultimate host, Brian Canlis, co-owner of Seattle’s legendary Canlis restaurant, to weigh in.

On a perfect night at Canlis, the restaurant my family has run for 60-plus years, I see great dining experiences happening throughout the room. I love the juxtaposition of laughter and fine dining. Guests are up and mingling with friends they’ve discovered at different tables; the lounge is filled with people who have been at the restaurant all night and don’t want the evening to end. For me, the key to that harmony is helping diners realize that hospitality is about relationships, not about transactions. (I know, one side is paying. I get that.) But truly, I think of it like dating. You need two people to make the experience memorable. he key is being sensitive to each other’s needs. And I won’t know how to serve you if you don’t give me something to go on. Take a guest who says, “I want your best table.” My first reaction is: What’s your name? I’m not asking if you’re famous or important; I mean who are you? What’s your idea of “best”? Personally, my favorite is Table 1. It was my grandfather’s table. It’s a two-top on the upper level of the restaurant, overlooking the dining room, with a fully functional 1940s phone. I once put a guest there who had requested our best table, and he got angry. To him, the “best” meant something completely different. Recently someone told me, “My mother is having surgery soon, and if there’s a quiet table where we could talk, I’d really appreciate it.” hat just made my heart explode. Listen: If we know what it takes to blow you away, we will do it. Here’s another way to help us help you. Dining out, especially at a place like Canlis, is about more than just filling your stomach. You’re probably coming because the night means something. Tell us what that is when you make the reservation—ideally over the phone, but we do read the “notes” section in our online reservation system. Do that, and we’re 80 percent there. hen, when you arrive, introduce yourself. Don’t just say “Johnson, party of two.” And learn our names. hat’s so powerful. If you have an allergy or any other food issue, let us know. Remember, we’re on the same team. Finally, surprise your server by treating him or her like a human being, one you’re curious about. People in this industry so often get treated like servants; that’s not what we are. We’re professionals trained to deliver an individually tailored experience. Be kind and empathetic, and we will fight to make sure you leave a raving fan. Remember: It’s all about you and the restaurant getting to know each other. Why not make some small talk and just see where the night goes? True hospitality is the business of relationships. Help us build one.

M AY 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E


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Rules OF Dining Out

THE NEW

1. MAKE A CONNECTION. Back in the day, when you wanted a reservation, you called the restaurant and spoke to a human—a connection was made. With the rise of online reservation services like OpenTable and Resy, that connection is gone. So, as Brian Canlis suggests, use the “notes” section (most services have one) to re-establish it. “Communicate with us,” says Stuart Brioza of State Bird Provisions in San Francisco, “and we can make anything happen.” Is it a special occasion? Got a favorite table? It’s always better to let the restaurant know in advance. “Say you’re a vegetarian,” says Katy Kindred of Kindred restaurant in Davidson, North Carolina. “It’s fine if you tell us when you arrive, but if you tell us earlier, our chefs might make something special.” Bottom line: Give restaurants as much info as possible as early as possible so they can exceed your expectations.

that planes are delayed, kids get sick. Just let us know,” says Brioza. “But no-shows keep someone else from having that table.” When you do show up, arrive on time. If you’re running late, call to let the restaurant know. And make sure your party of four is just that: four. (You wouldn’t arrive at a dinner party with three extra people in tow—right?) Sure, a restaurant can make it work (probably), but your actions may throw a wrench in the night’s service, including yours. Squirrelly or downright bad behavior doesn’t just affect others—it can also come back to haunt you. Some reservation services allow restaurants to rate guests, à la Lyft. Two-star guests do not get that extra wine-glass top off. OpenTable will even suspend a diner from its service if they’re a noshow four times in a year. 3. GO WITH THE FLOW. If the staff is really into something, try it. “Leave yourself in the hands of the team,” says Katie Button, executive chef and co-owner of Cúrate

2. MAKE A COMMITMENT. he anonymity of the web has made it easier than ever to bail on a table. “We get

M AY 2018

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F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E


and Nightbell in Asheville, North Carolina. “hat will allow you to experience a place the way it was designed to be enjoyed.” Short version: his is the staff’s job. Trust them. he heart of what restaurants do is creating an enjoyable experience. Go along for the ride, and odds are you’ll have a better one. “I never want to make anyone feel dumb,” says Andrew Tarlow, owner of Reynard in Brooklyn. “But that doesn’t mean we’re not going to try and get you excited about some crazy new cheese we’re into that you’ve never heard of.” Seriously: Get the cheese. You’ll eat happier.

kitchens go into DEFCON 1, taking extra care to prevent cross contamination. So if you just don’t like peanuts, be clear that’s what you mean. 6. COMPLAIN! hings go wrong. It happens. What transpires next can derail the night or pull it out of the ditch. “We love our guests to provide feedback in real time,” says Danny Meyer, the man who literally wrote the book on hospitality, Setting the Table. “Constructive feedback is one of our greatest learning tools. It never feels good to learn we’ve let somebody down, but it’s a gift to be able to acknowledge a mistake and fix it.” If you’re unhappy, let someone know ASAP. (Wondering how to send a dish back with grace? See “Send It Back,” below.) If you aren’t comfortable talking with your server, ask for a manager, and then explain the situation. Says Meyer, “he biggest cause of misunderstandings is lack of communication. We appreciate hearing when the meal is going well, but even more so when it’s not.” he worst-case scenario for restaurants is a guest saying, “Tonight just wasn’t good,” when it’s too late to do anything about it. Even worse: hearing about it weeks later on Yelp. “Disappointing a guest is a chef’s nightmare. If it happens, we want to know right away,” says Andrea Reusing, chef-owner of Lantern in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. “When someone complains online, the only person it serves is the one writing the review.”

4. DIVE INTO THE WINE. When you’re faced with wine lists full of umlauts and varietals you’ve never heard of, look at it as a chance for a relationship-building trust fall: “he first thing I ask is, ‘What do you normally drink?’ hen I give a few suggestions and ask them to trust me,” says Melissa Davis, beverage director of Staplehouse in Atlanta. “Guests already make the most difficult decisions—what to order, who to invite, whether to Uber—so let us take some of that stress away.” 5. TELL US HOW SPECIAL YOU ARE. Like many places, Nashville’s Rolf and Daughters spends a lot of time making sure dishes can accommodate dietary restrictions. “We try to create a quiver of ways to satisfy any issue,” says chef Philip Krajeck. “We have cashew cheese for dishes, and we make our own gluten-free pasta in-house.” hat said, the sooner you let a restaurant know any special requests, the more you set the kitchen—and your night—up for success. Are there allergies? Aversions? Overshare! Start when you make your reservation (see: Rule No. 1), and keep it going the moment you and your server first lock eyes. But please, says Krajeck, “Don’t make things up. No one is allergic to basil.” When you raise the possibility of a medical issue,

7. HANDS OFF. It’s sad this needs to be mentioned, but here goes: Do not flirt, hit on, or touch anyone working at a restaurant. Period. 8. PARTY IN BOUNDS. If someone at your table has overindulged, do everyone a favor and step in. “Dude, I think you’re good,” goes down a lot better from friends or family. he ruckus isn’t the only problem. “If you have

SEND IT BACK Few things are more deflating than biting into something that looked super-tasty on the menu and hating it. What to do (aside from never ordering it again)? “It’s always OK to send a dish back,” says Danny “Mr. Hospitality” Meyer. Here’s how to do it.

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

BE HONEST If you changed your mind or decided to try a dish you knew you might not like, be up-front with your server about that. Don’t say, “This dish is no good.” Say, “I think I ordered the wrong thing.”

BE SPECIFIC Why exactly didn’t you like it? Was it poorly executed? A line like, “I don’t like this because it’s too acidic and spicy,” may help the restaurant describe the dish better in the future.

59

BE CONFIDENT No one wants to make a guest unhappy (even if said guest should have noticed the menu called out the fish sauce in the salad). Send it back without apology—and then tip well.

BE MINDFUL If you send back more than one dish, maybe the problem is you.

SAME GOES FOR WINE If you don’t enjoy a wine, return it (see: “Be Mindful,” left). “If the wine isn’t flawed, we can still sell it by the glass,” says Carlton McCoy, wine director at The Little Nell in Aspen, Colorado.

M AY 2018


too much to drink, we are legally obligated to stop serving you,” says Kindred. “If it comes down to us cutting you off or us getting fined—or worse—we’ll choose the former every time.”

BY THE NUMBERS We conducted a poll on restaurant guest behavior with Culinary Agents, an online network for the hospitality industry. Here are the results.

9. THINK OF THE CHILDREN! “I have no qualifications when it comes to bringing kids into my restaurants. I love it,” says Spike Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore. “But make sure you find somewhere that feels the same way. Go to a place where kids are welcome, not merely tolerated.” A couple of tip-offs? he chef-owner actually has kids. “Notions of ‘kid-friendly’ change once you have your own,” says Gjerde, from experience. Look online. A thoughtful kids menu—meaning, not the usual fried suspects—is a good sign. Know that if you come in at 8 p.m. on a Saturday, the restaurant will be far more bustling than it will be at, say, 5:30 p.m. on a Wednesday. And don’t let your kid run around the place. hat’s not just a courtesy to other diners—with servers carrying hot food through a crowded space, it’s a safety issue.

WHAT’S YOUR BIGGEST PET PEEVE ABOUT DINERS?

Attitude

23% Other

19% Faking a food allergy

10% Substitutions

11% Nonconsuming lingering guests

WHAT’S THE BEST THING A GUEST HAS EVER DONE?

10. KNOW THE LIMITS OF BYO. If you plan on bringing that magnum of Champagne from a recent trip to France, read up on a place’s corkage policy (better yet, call; in some states BYOB is illegal, so the restaurant may not have a say in the matter). Note that rolling in with a $15 bottle from the shop up the block does not count as opening a “special” bottle—and by trying to game the system, you’re missing out. houghtful restaurants curate drink lists to elevate the food. Trust them (see: Rule No. 3). Intimidated by the wine list? See Rule No. 4. Here’s another tip: “Stick to by-the-glass,” says Justin Chearno, wine director of he Four Horsemen in Brooklyn. “It’s a great way to experience the breadth of a wine program and learn in the process.” Cin cin! Win-win!

WHAT’S THE WORST THING A GUEST HAS EVER DONE? Left without paying

Brought us doughnuts

Didn’t leave a tip

Became a regular

Came in drunk and made a mess

Treated staff with respect Shared their wine (that they made themselves) Paid for another person’s food

12. END ON A HIGH NOTE. “If I see a diner walk to the front door and no one says goodbye, that drives me crazy,” says Reusing. “I love it when a guest says, ‘hank you so much.’ Feelings of gratitude are mutual.” Once you’ve paid (tipping 20 percent—you do know that tips are how servers make money, right?), make eye contact with the staff on your way out. “Use those names! Say goodbye! Shake our hands!” adds Canlis. “he date is coming to an end, and we’ve both invested a lot into the night. Let’s acknowledge that.”

13% No-show reservations

Sent a thank-you card

Left a $1,000 tip

11. ASK FOR OVERTIME. “If you’ve paid the bill but decide to sit for another hour hanging out, that’s very hard for a restaurant,” Canlis says. “Tell us: ‘We’re having a blast—is it OK if we hang out, or do you need the table?’ Even if we do, we’ll find somewhere so you can keep having a good time. Just ask.”

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24%

Clogged up plumbing with steaks, baked potatoes, and dinner napkins Said they were allergic to salt Threw a chair

Told our managers how great service was

General rudeness

RATE THE LEVEL OF RESPECT GUESTS GIVE YOU

WHAT DO GUESTS DO THAT MAKES YOUR JOB HARDER?

1 STAR=NONE 7=LOTS

Have a close-minded attitude

24.1% 29.4% 31.0% 12.3% 2.4% 0.4% 0.4%

Seat themselves

Verbally abused staff

Use their phones when they order Not communicate Not disclose food allergies Lack manners and kindness

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SAVOR. EXPLORE. CHARLESTON. Whether you’re searching for the destination’s best barbecue, or a traditional dish marinated in the flavors of the Lowcountry, Charleston, South Carolina offers a delicious experience for every travel style. Isn’t it time you come and taste for yourself?

Pitmaster Rodney Scott

HISTORY LOVES COMPANY Find everything needed to book your getaway at

EXPLORECHARLESTON.COM @E X P LO R E C H A R LE S TO N

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PRODUCED BY

J O R DA N A ROT H M A N

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photography: jennifer causey; prop styling: missie neville crawford

EASURE YOUR LIFE IN TAKEOFFS and touchdowns and you pick up some funky lessons. You come to memorize which airport terminals have yoga rooms because they’re the best places to nap through a flight delay. You train yourself to keep pace with your home time zone, even if it means banging out a few hundred words at 3 a.m. on Oahu before the sun flips the switch over Honolulu Harbor. Instead of counting sheep on a red-eye, you teach yourself all the lyrics to Drake’s “Back to Back,” and it stays in your head for five months until you exorcise it at a karaoke bar in New York City. his is life on the road as Food & Wine’s restaurant editor, a post that’s taken me, over six months, across 37,000 miles and through countless dining rooms, all in the service of finding the year’s most captivating places to eat. So what makes a Restaurant of the Year? It always begins with something delicious—a flavor we can’t shake, a cuisine ripe for celebration, a new idea, or a classic revived. But a Restaurant of the Year also should transcend the dinner plate. hese are turbulent times in America and for the restaurant business itself. Revelations of harassment in high-profile kitchens have forced the industry into a long-overdue reckoning. So it felt exactly right that the places that resonated the most offered more than unforgettable food. he 2018 crop includes restaurants that reflect and serve the communities of which they are a part. hey’re led by women and men with a sense of integrity that ripples out from their kitchens and colors every exchange with purpose and respect. In the end, the restaurants we fell in love with this year were the ones that offer a rich portrait of the people who made them. hey remind us that a good meal can capture the spirit of a place as sharply as a postcard. And while any road warrior will tell you the pleasures of travel are wrapped up in the journey, these 10 restaurants make a compelling case that sometimes, really, it’s all about the destination.


This massive, copper-wrapped hearth is the centerpiece of Maydan in Washington, D.C.

WA S H I N GTO N , D.C.

photography by Cedric Angeles

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saffron, and a rich, wobbly hunk of lamb shoulder rubbed in Syrian seven-spice that I tore apart with my hands. To understand Maydan, though, you need to know the spitfire who made it all happen: restaurateur Rose Previte. She grew up in Ohio, the daughter of “an Italian guy from Jersey and a Lebanese-American mom straight out of Detroit who made damn sure I didn’t forget my own culture.” he restaurant is named for the public squares Previte encountered on her travels through Arabic cities and is designed to cultivate an energy she feels is missing in D.C.’s divided climate. “I want you to bump into people, to have to engage with strangers and find your way. I want to encourage serendipity and chance encounters,” she says. Maybe you’ll bump into Previte’s mom. he first time she visited Maydan, she jumped on the line to add more lemon to the toum—the thick, garlicky dip you’ll want to slather on everything. “An old Lebanese lady is never going to be like, ‘You’re doing everything right,’” says Previte. In my experience, Maydan comes pretty close. 1346 Florida Ave. NW, Washington, D.C.; maydandc.com

ART OF ME WISHES you could encounter Maydan the way I did the first time—poking around to find it at the end of a cobblestone alley in Washington, D.C.’s Cardozo neighborhood. You’d pass through a pair of heavy doors and then stand there in a daze, in everyone’s way, unable to compute how this copper-wrapped monolithic fire pit could possibly exist in a major metropolis. But there it is, in the center of a packed barroom, yawning 20 feet in the air and spitting ribbons of live fire. You might see chef Gerald Addison setting a basket of peppers over the smoldering coals, or his co-chef Chris Morgan hovering over the two tones—the Georgian clay ovens that hold steady at 800 degrees, churning out smoky, bubbled flatbreads at a swift clip. his fire is the heart and hearth of Maydan and the best things to eat pass through it. I filled every inch of my table with singed sardines marinated in vivid parsley chermoula, beef koobideh kebabs threaded with

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food styling: mariana velasquez

Chef Chris Morgan works the clay ovens at Maydan, LEFT. A view of the dining room, BELOW. A whole chicken rubbed with turmeric, a mix of bright dips, and blistered flatbreads, RIGHT (recipes p. 90).


BETTER LUCK TOMORROW H O U S TO N photography by Dylan + Jeni CHEF JUSTIN YU HAS SOME OPINIONS

about what constitutes a sandwich. “Only something between two slices of fully detached bread,” says Yu. What about a falafel? “Not a sandwich,” he says. A hot dog? “Nope.” Yu’s hard-line categorization is particularly funny when you consider that his hot spot Better Luck Tomorrow

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thrives in a gray area all its own—the terra nullius between bar and restaurant. BLT is the love child of Yu and Bobby Heugel, the guy behind gold-standard cocktail destinations like Anvil. So you might feel like calling BLT your favorite bar. Heugel tinkers with the building blocks of familiar drinks (recipes p. 91), and he leverages Yu’s relationships with local farms to inspire weekly specials. That spicy Dark and Stormy? It’s made with house-fermented ginger beer derived from a random windfall of the root grown by Yu’s favorite chicken farmer. But you also might think of BLT as your favorite restaurant. The $99 “Cycle” buys one of everything on the menu, from gnarled lamb belly bites that eat like the world’s best chicharrónes to chilled shrimp dotted with Tunisian hot sauce. This all makes for a fun time, but there’s

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something slyly earnest happening here, too. BLT plants a flag for the kind of all-occasion neighborhood restaurant that’s hard to come by in a sprawling city like Houston. That means considering the neighborhood’s needs and filling in the gaps: Local pasta favorite Coltivare closes on Tuesdays, so BLT serves cacio e pepe and other pastas once a week to pick up the slack. It means finding a way to make a chicken salad interesting and delicious, so that people who don’t want to indulge in a “Party Melt” also will feel welcome. You should probably taste that melt though. It’s a perfect, loose grind of Texas beef cooked in tallow, served on bread that’s been crisped up with an outer layer of toasted cheese (recipe p. 91). And apparently—bonus!—it counts as a sandwich. 544 Yale St., Houston; betterlucktomorrowhou.com


FAIRFAX

N E W YO R K C I T Y

photography: eric medsker

SHE’S ALL THINGS TO ALL EATERS, that New York City. Should a pressing need for Cornish hen arise at midnight or a thirst for a Shanghai soup dumpling hit at 4 a.m.— Gotham’s got you, friend. But when every night brings something new, every dinner has a learning curve, and every bar starts to feel like the place where nobody knows your name. But then Fairfax comes along, where restaurateur Gabe Stulman has made a home for you—yes, you—in New York’s West Village. You may be able to get anything at any time in this city, but for the moment, Fairfax is the only thing you want. There’s a well-worn leather sofa for that coffee meeting you’ve been meaning to take and a round marble table for dinner with the group of friends whose stories you know by heart. You could start in the morning with a grapefruit topped with hazelnuts, mint, and honey (recipe p. 92) or an omelet so simple and thoroughly French it could lead a séance for Paul Bocuse (hat tip to chef Jack Harris). You could stick around until some friends show up and order a plate of salty anchovies or a soothing coq au vin. As the old George Carlin chestnut goes, it’s the quiet ones you’ve got to watch. Sometimes, I guess, restaurants can sneak up on you, too. 234 W. Fourth St., New York City; fairfax.nyc


A spread of man’oushe—Lebanese flatbread—at Reem’s in Oakland, California, RIGHT. Owner Reem Assil works with local farmers to source ingredients for the colorful toppings.

OA K L A N D, CA L I FO R N I A

photography by Eva Kolenko

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Reem Assil at work in her Oakland bakery, ABOVE. This month, she expands with a second restaurant in partnership with chef Daniel Patterson. She named the new project Dyafa, Arabic for â&#x20AC;&#x153;hospitality.â&#x20AC;? A labneh parfait with orange blossom honey (recipe p. 92), BELOW. Server Akemi Weaver delivers a meal, RIGHT.


I’d tried elastic man’oushe flatbread peeled off a hot saj griddle, sumac-braised chicken, shakshuka bubbling with bright egg yolks, and tahini cut with butternut squash. I hadn’t planned on getting the mu’ajinaat— the puffy little turnover stuffed with tangy marinated akkawi cheese and speckled with black nigella seeds. But a pair of older women at the Reem’s counter insisted I was missing out, told me they hadn’t tasted mu’ajinaat quite like this since their mother died, told me this particular mu’ajinaat was a taste of Palestine, a taste of home. he woman to thank here is Reem Assil, who grew up in a Syrian-Palestinian family in Sudbury, Massachusetts—an “ambiguously brown kid,” as she describes herself, in a predominantly white neighborhood. From an early age she understood food as a potent tool for empathy and connection. “When the Arab world appeared in our curriculum at all, it was always stereotypical and outdated. Kids would make fun of me,” she remembers. “My mom would come to the school and give the kids baklava and maamoul cookies. It always won them over.” As an adult, Assil studied international relations and became a labor activist; it wasn’t until a trip to Lebanon, where she observed the sense of community fostered in the lively bakeries of Beirut, that she resolved to bring that spirit to the States. Food as a vehicle for healing is at the center of everything here. Assil has roots in the local foods movement of the Bay Area—Reem’s started out as a farmers market stand. And so the produce is local, the meat from nearby halal butchers. he dough for those man’oushe breads gets its tang from a Tartine Bakery starter and may be topped with cumin from Burlap & Barrel, a company emphasizing ethical sourcing in Afghanistan, Palestine, and elsewhere. At a moment when touchstones of Middle Eastern cuisine like tahini and pomegranate molasses appear on menus all over the country, Reem’s offers an opportunity to see those flavors, often attributed to Israel, through a wider lens, one inclusive of the Arab perspective. “I wanted to cultivate understanding in the most humane way possible— through food,” says Assil, who makes her case with orange blossom–scented cookies, spinach pastries spiced with cinnamon and sumac (recipe p. 92), and warm flatbread bundling sujuk sausage. “I look around my restaurant on a Saturday afternoon. I see Jews and Arabs eating together. I see people who are not politicized just enjoying a meal. And I think, this is what peace looks like.” 3301 E. 12th St., Ste. 133, Oakland, CA; reemscalifornia.com ’D ORDERED FAR TOO MUCH ALREADY.

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SUPERIOR MOTORS B R A D D O C K , P E N N S Y LVA N I A photography by Cedric Angeles

WHEN CHEF KEVIN SOUSA began planting the seeds for Superior Motors—a community-driven restaurant in Braddock, Pennsylvania, an old steel town just a few miles east of Pittsburgh—he understood better than most what it could mean. Sousa grew up nearby. He knew his restaurant would be the first to open in Braddock in decades. It would offer job training and employment opportunities to locals. It would bring energy, heat, and hope, revitalizing this post-industrial borough. Superior Motors was a big idea. And big ideas take time—in Sousa’s case, five years. In 2014 he set a Kickstarter record for the most-funded restaurant campaign, raising $310,225. But then construction costs built up, and the money ran out. The project seemed to founder. Finally, last spring, there were signs of life: an Instagram photo of a brick hearth; another of new kitchen equipment. Funding came through, and on July 15, 2017, Sousa opened the doors to Superior Motors, a poured-concrete temple built on the bones of a former Chevy dealership on Braddock’s main drag.

Thirty-five percent of the staff at Superior Motors are Braddock, Pennsylvania, natives. Kevin Sousa (standing center left in a cap) spent five years bringing the project to life. General Manager Chris Clark (standing center right) previously worked at WD-50 in New York City and Mezzo in Pittsburgh.

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any time, and any Braddock resident can get one. Taste a simple halibut seared off in the gut of the hearth or a juicy slice of pork loin cut with trout roe’s salty pop, and you’ll see Superior Motors as a very good restaurant. Look a little deeper, and you’ll see it as something even richer: a testament to the power of persistence, of stamina, of keeping a whiteknuckle grip on ideals, even in the most challenging moments. “For so long I wasn’t able to celebrate successes; I just had to apologize for failures,” says Sousa. “Now I am surrounded by amazing people who want to be in Braddock, who are even moving here to be a part of this. It feels really, really good.” 1211 Braddock Ave., Braddock, PA; superiormotors15104.com

Five years is a lifetime in the restaurant world. Ideas can change. Good intentions can sour. But the Superior Motors of today is the restaurant Sousa promised Braddock it would be. Thirty-five percent of his staff are Braddock natives. He closes the restaurant on Mondays and Tuesdays to lead a job training program focusing on foundational topics like knife skills. Much of the produce starts out as seedlings in the rooftop greenhouse that are replanted at Braddock Farms down the street. Seeing the place in full flower can be an emotional experience. The glass-fronted space faces the steel mill across the street, and cloudy gusts from its old smokestacks remind you exactly where you are. You might spot engraved black steel cards in the hands of many guests—they’re good for a 50 percent discount

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Hand-painted palm frond wallpaper and blush furniture set a soft, relaxing tone at Grand Cafe in Minneapolis.

MINNEAPOLIS

photography by Paul Costello

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Chocolate pots de crème (recipe p. 94) set in vintage teacups, ABOVE. Chef Jamie Malone holding court at Grand Cafe, RIGHT. OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT: Pike quenelle in a crayfish sauce; Chicken Liver Paris-Brest with Black Honey Glaze (recipe p. 93).


DIf SthH e o YEAR

ET’S START with a few markers on the timeline of the long and storied life of Grand Cafe. he massive gas oven was installed in 1951 when the space was a community bakery. In 2003 the Grand became a proper restaurant. A few years later, blues pianist and local legend Cornbread Harris knotted his tie and showed up for his first gig playing piano here. In 2014 Minnesota native chef Jamie Malone came to the Grand on a date, warming up by that toasty Despatch Baker Boy oven. “I remember thinking there was something so sweet, cozy, and romantic about it,” she says of the charming bistro, occupying a quirky warren of rooms in southwest Minneapolis. “I also remember

Chef Jamie Malone’s showstopping savory Paris-Brest is a swirl of choux pastry that’s painted with black honey and sandwiches ethereal chicken liver mousse. It’s also our dish of the year. (And yes, you can totally have one. Recipe on p. 93.)

thinking, ‘God I wish the food was better.’” In 2017, Malone bought the restaurant and turned it into the Francophile fever dream she knew her hometown deserved. Sometimes, a girl’s got to grant her own wishes. he Grand Cafe of 2018 preserves the soul of the original: Decades later, the gas oven still fires like a dream, and at 91, Harris still plays at the Grand Cafe every Sunday night. But there are also Malone’s gentle tweaks, which elevate the old girl: You might drink en rama sherry instead of Burgundy beneath the hand-painted palm frond wallpaper. You can now wave down a roving marble cart set with a rich, nutty Tennessee ham. But if you really want to dial into Malone’s vision for the place, first consider her Paris-Brest. It’s a savory edit of the classic French dessert, a swirl of choux pastry painted with black honey sandwiching ethereal chicken liver mousse instead of sweet praline. Or you could try her pike quenelle: Malone turbocharges the Lyon oldie with a new relevance, adding scallops to lighten the mousse and roasted garlic puree to give it a lingering depth. Like everything at Grand Cafe, it speaks of the past in the language of the present, like Beyoncé singing “La Vie en Rose.” “I fell in love with cooking by reading old French cookbooks, learning about French chefs, French restaurants,” says Malone. “You become a cook and you get caught up in trends, but I had to come back to that feeling of falling in love.” 3804 Grand Ave. South, Minneapolis; grandcafemn.com 81

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VOYAGER F E R N DA L E , M I C H I GA N photography by Cedric Angeles

WHEN CHEF JENNIFER JACKSON’S phone lights up with a text, it’s a buddy asking her to save a seat at the bar. Then it’s Dave Belanger, the trusty clammer she and co-chef Justin Tootla count on for their usual order: Charleston oysters packed in a Coleman and insulated with frozen Gatorades. A few minutes later, it’s another purveyor, sending a heads-up that he’s short on Nantucket scallops. This is a typical day at Voyager, a seafood gem in Ferndale, Michigan, a small industrial sector of Detroit. Voyager breaks the mold of your classic oyster bar (the usual shucked suspects; a musty imperial vibe) and looks good doing it. Restaurateur Eli Boyer built the place on his own terms, in a way that felt right for his hometown. A color-blocked,

airy interior makes it the ultimate hangout, and Tootla and Jackson’s menu makes it a compelling destination. The oyster selection ranges from Barnstable, Massachusetts, to Discovery Bay, Washington, but the best bites at Voyager reach further afield. Peel-and-eat shrimp are dusted with Old Bay and served with umami-packed Alabama comeback sauce (recipe p. 94). A Caesar salad arrives with creamy, crunchy fried sweetbreads. Like Detroit itself, Voyager has found its way by adapting to shifting tides. It’s a major score for a city on its way up, but any town in America would be very lucky to have it. 600 Vester St., Ferndale, MI; voyagerferndale.com ELYSE INAMINE

Jennifer Jackson and Justin Tootla share a moment before heading into the kitchen. M AY 2018

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KEMURI TATSUYA A U ST I N “JOHN WAYNE ON ACID.” That’s Tatsu

photography: john davidson

Aikawa’s shorthand for Kemuri Tatsu-ya, the Austin izakaya he heads with co-chef Takuya Matsumoto. Look around, and you’ll see his point. The restaurant conjures a world where cowboys slurp ramen after quick-draw duels—a Texas roadhouse by way of Akita. To make the two worlds work on a menu, Aikawa and Matsumoto considered their own experiences. “We come from Japanese immigrant families, but we both grew up here in Texas,” says Aikawa. “We wanted to tell that side of our story through food.” They settled on smoke as the common thread: Smoldering post oak is the heart of Texas barbecue, while smoked bonito powers dashi, the base of many Japanese recipes. If there’s one dish that sums up the spirit of Kemuri, it would be the BBQ Tsukemen— springy noodles in one bowl, a thick dipping broth in another. That soup is a three-day labor of love that stacks collagen-rich chicken and pork feet for texture with smoked brisket burnt ends, kombu, and katsuobushi. The result is murky magic that you’ll want to polish off like a shot of whiskey. And at Kemuri, no one’s going to stop you from doing that. The place feels like a house party, hosted by the chefs and a crew of in-it-to-win-it waiters who bellow “irasshaimase” (welcome!) when someone saunters through the front door. Between shochu and Japanese whiskey, you can eat edamame smoked over cherry wood or a sticky-rice tamale punched up with shiitake and chorizo (recipe p. 95). It all walks a tightrope strung between two cultures that feel, suddenly, like an obvious match. At Kemuri, Aikawa and Matsumoto offer an interpretation of first-gen life that is personal, provocative, and a damn good time. 2713 E. Second St., Austin; kemuri-tatsuya.com

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Chef Edouardo Jordan finishes a dish in the kitchen at JuneBaby in Seattle.

JUNEBABY THERE’S A PAINTING THAT HANGS near the restroom at JuneBaby in Seattle, a silhouette in a ring of fire. Look a little closer, and you’ll notice the texture lacing down the figure’s back: scars. “I wanted people to take a moment,” says chef Edouardo Jordan of the piece, an interpretation of a famous abolitionist photograph of a slave. This isn’t the only art setting the tone at the restaurant. There’s a mural of live oaks dripping with Spanish moss and a festive vignette inspired by the work of African-American artist Jacob Lawrence. Taken together, these illustrate Jordan’s intention at JuneBaby. “I wanted to present Southern food from a black chef’s perspective—to present the good and the bad, the stereotypes and the reality,” he says. It’s a complex and confronting narrative that Jordan, a Florida-born chef with Georgia roots, handles with a lot of care. At JuneBaby he delivers the message using a universal language: thoughtful, delicious food. Here are dishes that have been left out of the boom in Southern-inflected restaurants. Chitlins, for example—the small intestines of a pig, stewed and finished with housemade hot sauce. “That’s what my grandmother cooked because that’s what she could afford,” he says. “The question is, how do we elevate these things to a degree without compromising tradition?” The answers are here on the plate: Pig ears arrive in crunchy ribbons tangled up with watercress over dabs of honeysweetened pecan butter; pillowy antebellum buns (p. 95) are perfect for sopping up rich consommé beneath braised oxtails. JuneBaby is resonating. The place is perpetually packed with locals and destination diners who come for Jordan’s flaky biscuits with sweet cane syrup or his chile-tossed jumble of charred okra and peanuts. On Sunday nights, they queue up to score one of just 60 orders of his fried chicken, tart from a buttermilk brine, with exactly the right ratio of juicy meat to crunchy crust. Linger on a barstool long enough and you might find yourself locked in conversation with a stranger, swapping passages from the encyclopedia Jordan compiled—the entries range from the West African slave trade to the history of the Bradford Watermelon. At JuneBaby, Jordan sets a groundbreaking new standard for Southern cuisine: at once enticing and challenging, a full and fearless embrace of a history none of us can afford to forget. 2122 NE 65th St., Seattle; junebabyseattle.com M AY 2018

photography: shannon renfroe

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The team at LASA (FROM LEFT: Nico De Leon,Victor Salazar, Conrad Almazar, Nicholas Ryan, Chad Valencia, and Jason Dimagiba) gathers for a family photo outside their restaurant in Chinatownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Far East Plaza.

LOS A N G E L ES

photography by Eva Kolenko

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Crispy duck leg over arroz caldo, a savory rice porridge, at LASA in Los Angeles; making magic in the kitchen; condensed milk ice cream with black sesame polvoron (recipes on p. 96).

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

LIKE TO THINK I’M PRETTY CONVERSANT in Filipino food. I know sisig from lechon, longganisa from lumpia. And I’ve watched with excitement as the cuisine, a rich and complex brew of Chinese, Spanish, and Pacific flavors, embarked on its rise through the restaurant world. But in that time, I can’t say I’ve encountered anything quite like the beef kilawin at LASA in Los Angeles. It had the satisfying texture of a bistro tartare with a funky hum I couldn’t put my finger on. I’d learn later that it was the Filipino fish sauce known as patis swirled into the aioli that bound it all together. And those crunchy bits on top, with that twang of acidity, those were salt-and-vinegar taro chips. his is the kind of opening salvo that makes you giddy for whatever’s coming next—and, vitally, when a menu covers so much new ground, it’s the kind of dish that earns a diner’s trust. Brothers Chad and Chase Valencia (chef and front-ofhouse, respectively) are native Angelenos who have been working through the city’s kitchens and dining rooms since they were teenagers. hey first conceived of LASA as a series of pop-ups and eventually landed in this humble little space in Chinatown. he walls are a deep green, a nod to the color of a museum in Pampanga, the Filipino province where the Valencias’ parents were born. Take a walk around and you’ll spot plenty of snapshots of the elder Valencias. hese are intimate touches that tell you LASA is a deeply personal place—an album of memories, an heirloom. But to assume LASA is as frozen in the past as an old photograph would be a mistake. “We are doing something uniquely American, applying the food of our upbringing to the evolving narrative of cuisine in the U.S.,” says Chad. And so LASA delivers food with a foot planted confidently in both worlds. Never had kesong puti? LASA’s a good place to get to know the mild white cheese. Chad models it on an Italian ricotta, curdles the milk with Filipino calamansi, and crisps it up in brown butter like gnocchi Parisienne. His knack for merging Western technique and Filipino ideas hits a high note in his tinola, a traditional chicken soup reimagined as a duck leg confit. It sits in a broth of lemongrass and young ginger, drops of duck fat–chile oil drifting around on top. Like so much at LASA, the dish lands like an anthem of many nations. In the whirl of America in 2018, that’s exactly the tune we want to hear. 727 N. Broadway, Los Angeles; lasa-la.com

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For even more recipes from our Restaurants of the Year, visit foodandwine.com/roy-recipes.

2. Place chicken, breast side down, on a cutting board. Using poultry shears, cut along both sides of backbone; discard backbone. Turn chicken breast side up, and press down on breastbone to flatten chicken. Season both sides with salt. Place chicken in a large roasting pan, and rub all over with marinade. Cover and chill at least 2 hours and up to 8 hours or overnight. 3. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high (about 450°F) on one side, or push hot coals to one side of a charcoal grill. Gently blot chicken with paper towels to remove excess marinade. Place chicken, breast side up, on oiled grates over unlit side of grill. Grill, covered, over indirect heat until chicken is well browned and an instantread thermometer inserted in thickest portion of chicken registers 160°F, about 20 minutes per side. Transfer chicken to a carving board, and let rest 15 minutes before carving. WINE Vibrant, lightly spicy Alsace white:

2016 Kuentz-Bas Pinot Blanc —gerald addison and chris morgan

Turmeric and Coriander Roast Chicken Active 30 min; Total 3 hr 30 min Serves 4 At Maydan in Washington, D.C., chickens are roasted in the open hearth and served with flatbread and flavorful dips (recipes follow). To make it at home, spatchcock the chicken before grilling it over indirect heat for crisp, charred skin and juicy meat.

Ezme Total 10 min; Makes about 2 cups

Pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, and sherry vinegar brighten this sweet-tart Turkish condiment of fresh tomatoes. 1/2

lb. ripe plum tomatoes, cored

1 1/3 cups loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves 1/2

cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses 1 1/2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1/2

cup grapeseed oil cup garlic cloves (about 10 cloves)

1/4

cup coriander seeds

2 Tbsp. ground turmeric 1 (3- to 4-lb.) whole chicken

1 1/2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar

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1/2

1 1/4 tsp. kosher salt 1/4

cup garlic cloves (about 20 cloves)

2 1/2 tsp. kosher salt 1 1/4 cups grapeseed oil, divided 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, divided

Combine garlic and salt in a food processor. Process until very finely chopped, about 10 seconds, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl as necessary. With processor running, drizzle in 5 tablespoons oil, and process until blended. Add 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and process until well combined, about 30 seconds, stopping to scrape down sides as necessary. With processor running, slowly drizzle in remaining oil in a thin stream, and process until fully blended. Add remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice; pulse to combine. Cover and chill until ready to serve, up to 1 day. —gerald addison and chris morgan

Zhoug Total 5 min; Makes about 1¼ cups

A surprising chile kick makes this Yemenite sauce a great pairing for grilled meats. Pureeing the herbs and chiles with oil keeps the sauce bright green for several days. 1 1/2 cups firmly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves 1 cup olive oil 3/4

1 1/2 tsp. Aleppo pepper

cup firmly packed fresh cilantro leaves

2 serrano chiles, stemmed 1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

tsp. honey

1 1/2 Tbsp. kosher salt

1. Place extra-virgin olive oil, grapeseed oil, garlic, coriander seeds, and turmeric in a blender. Process on high speed until smooth, about 35 seconds.

Total 5 min; Makes about 1½ cups

This Levantine emulsified garlic sauce comes together without any thickeners— it’s like magic the first time you make it. For the best flavor, use very fresh garlic, and peel the cloves right before making the sauce.

cup coarsely chopped red onion

1/2

1/4

Toum

1/2

Place all ingredients in a food processor. Pulse until evenly chopped, about 10 times. Cover and chill until ready to serve, up to 1 day. —gerald addison and chris morgan

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tsp. ground cumin

Place all ingredients in a blender. Process until smooth, about 30 seconds. Cover and chill until ready to serve. —gerald addison and chris morgan

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: cedric angeles; food styling: mariana velasquez

M AY D A N p . 6 6


B E T T E R LU C K TO M O R R OW p. 70 bread slices and cook until toasted on bottom, about 2 minutes. Flip slices and top each with ¼ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano. Cook until toasted on opposite side, about 2 minutes. Working quickly, flip bread cheese side down, and cook until cheese is melted and nearly crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Place toasts, cheese side down, on a baking sheet.

Party Melt

5. Generously season beef balls with salt. Place balls on griddle, and cook over high until well browned on bottom, about 45 seconds. Turn off heat and, using a large, sturdy spatula, flatten each ball into a

4½-inch patty. Return heat to high, and season patties with salt and pepper. Cook until very crusty on bottom, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip patties, and cook to desired degree of doneness, about 30 seconds for mediumrare. Top each patty with 2 cheddar slices, and transfer to a plate. 6. Spread plain sides of 4 cheese toasts with ketchup mixture, and season with pepper. Top with patties (cheddar side down), caramelized onions, and red onion. Top with remaining 4 cheese toasts, cheese side up, and serve immediately. —justin yu

Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 30 min Serves 4

A crispy Parmesan crust encases the 10-napkin patty melt at Houston’s Better Luck Tomorrow. The burger calls for a blend of freshly ground Wagyu and brisket; if you don’t have a meat grinder at home, ask your butcher to grind it for you. 1/4

cup canola oil, plus more for greasing

2 large yellow onions, halved and very thinly sliced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 10 oz. trimmed beef chuck, preferably Wagyu, cut into 1-inch pieces 10 oz. trimmed beef brisket, cut into 1-inch pieces 1/4

cup ketchup

1/4

cup mayonnaise

A

B

8 white cheddar cheese slices

C. Swiftly Tailored

Serve this summer cooler from Better Luck Tomorrow as a highball.

Make this passion fruit–peach spritz your go-to brunch cocktail.

Muddle a 1-inch piece of Persian cucumber in a cocktail shaker. Add 1½ oz. Pimm’s, 1 oz. lemon juice, ¾ oz. simple syrup, and ½ oz. dry gin. Fill shaker with ice; cover and shake until chilled. Add 1 oz. ginger beer and 1 oz. Topo Chico; stir gently to combine. Strain into an ice-filled collins glass; garnish with a mint sprig and a lemon wedge. —bobby heugel

Combine ½ oz. passion fruit syrup, ½ oz. Mathilde Pêche, and ¼ oz. lemon juice in a cocktail shaker. Fill with ice; cover and shake until chilled, about 30 seconds. Strain into a coupe glass, and top with 2½ oz. dry sparkling wine. Garnish with an orchid blossom, if desired. —terry williams

photography: dylan + jeni

2. Spread chuck and brisket pieces in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet, and freeze until firm, about 30 minutes. Gradually add meat to a meat grinder fitted with a chilled medium plate; grind on medium speed into a chilled bowl. Divide meat into fourths, and shape into balls. 3. Whisk together ketchup and mayonnaise in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

This smooth-sipping chamomile-infused tequila, pineapple, and sherry drink has a gorgeous tropical nose and a long finish. 1. Make chamomile-infused tequila: Combine 1 (750-ml.) bottle reposado tequila with 2 Tbsp. loose chamomile tea; steep 45 minutes. Pour through a fine wiremesh strainer lined with a coffee filter. 2. For each cocktail, soak 2 (1-inch) round slices or cubes of fresh pineapple in a splash of chamomile-infused tequila until flavor is absorbed, at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days. Chill until ready to use. 3. In a glass, combine 1½ oz. chamomileinfused tequila, ¾ oz. Lustau East India Solera Sherry, and ¼ oz. Bénédictine. Fill glass with ice; stir until chilled, about 30 seconds. Strain into a rocks glass filled with ice, and garnish with soaked pineapple slices. —terry williams

4. Heat a cast-iron griddle over medium and generously grease with canola oil. Add

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

D. Salty Cat A syrup of Japanese pickled plums adds oomph to a riff on the Salty Dog.

B. Sleepy Floyd

Thinly sliced red onion, for serving

1. Heat canola oil in a large skillet over medium. Add yellow onions and a generous pinch of salt. Cover with a sheet of parchment paper, and cook over medium, stirring every 10 minutes, until very soft and caramelized, about 50 minutes.

DD

A. Pimm’s Cup

8 (3/4 -inch-thick) Pullman bread slices 8 oz. Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated (about 2 cups)

C

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1. Make grapefruit-infused gin: Remove the zest of 1 grapefruit with a vegetable peeler. Place zest in a jar with 6 oz. Citadelle Gin. Let stand 1 day; remove and discard zest. 2. Make boshi syrup: Process 3 pitted umeboshi (Japanese pickled plums), ½ cup granulated sugar, and ¼ cup water in a blender until very smooth, about 1 minute. 3. Salt the rim of a double old-fashioned glass with fine Himalayan pink salt or kosher salt, and fill glass with ice. 4. Combine 1½ oz. grapefruit-infused gin, ¾ oz. boshi syrup, ¾ oz. fresh grapefruit juice, and ½ oz. fresh lime juice in a cocktail shaker. Fill with ice; cover and shake until chilled, about 30 seconds. Strain into prepared glass. Garnish with grapefruit slices and grapefruit pâte de fruit, if desired. —bobby heugel

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Grapefruit-Pomegranate Salad Active 20 min; Total 25 min Serves 4

Fairfax in New York City wowed us with this elegant salad of citrus supremes, pomegranate, hazelnuts, and fresh mint. 1/2

cup hazelnuts

DOUGH

1 1/4 cups warm water (100°F to 110°F) 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar 1 tsp. active dry yeast 1/4

cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing and brushing

3 1/4 cups (about 13 7/8 oz.) plus 5 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, divided, plus more for dusting

4 medium-size Ruby Red grapefruits

2 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

2 Tbsp. honey

FILLING

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1/2

cup fresh pomegranate arils

1/4

cup torn fresh mint

1 tsp. flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Spread hazelnuts in a pie plate, and bake in preheated oven until fragrant and skins are toasted, about 12 minutes. Transfer hazelnuts to a kitchen towel; let cool 10 minutes. Rub hazelnuts together in towel to remove the skins. Discard skins. Coarsely chop nuts; set aside. 2. Using a sharp knife, cut skin and bitter white pith from grapefruits. Working over a bowl, cut in between the membranes to release the sections. Drain grapefruit segments, and discard juice. 3. Whisk together honey and olive oil in a large bowl until smooth. Add grapefruit segments and pomegranate arils; toss gently to coat. Spoon evenly onto 4 chilled plates. Top evenly with hazelnuts and mint. Sprinkle with sea salt. —jack harris

R E E M ’S p. 7 2

Active 55 min; Total 2 hr 30 min Serves 24

In this recipe for savory turnovers from Reem’s in Oakland, California, a yeasted olive oil dough encloses a filling of spinach and onions spiced with cinnamon, allspice, and sumac.

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Labneh and Za’atar Granola Parfait page 74

2 (10-oz.) pkg. frozen leaf spinach, thawed 1 small red onion, minced (about 3/4 cup) 1 Tbsp. lemon juice 2 tsp. kosher salt

Active 30 min; Total 8 hr 30 min Serves 8

The spice mix za’atar gives a savory sesame aroma to this granola layered with labneh, honey, and pomegranate arils. 2 cups uncooked regular rolled oats 1/2

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1/2

tsp. ground allspice

1/2

tsp. ground cinnamon

1/2

tsp. ground sumac

1. Make the dough: Combine warm water, sugar, and yeast in a small bowl. Let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add 1/4 cup oil to yeast mixture, and stir to combine. 2. Stir together 31/4 cups flour and 2 1/2 teaspoons salt in a large bowl, and make a well in center of dry ingredients. Pour yeast mixture into well and gradually incorporate with a wooden spoon. When mixture becomes too stiff to stir and forms a shaggy dough, transfer to a lightly floured surface and begin kneading by hand, adding up to remaining 5 tablespoons flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, if dough is too sticky. Knead until dough is soft and elastic, about 10 minutes. Grease a large bowl with oil, and place dough in bowl, turning to coat. Cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. 3. Make the filling: Coarsely chop spinach. Place in a clean kitchen towel, and squeeze out excess liquid. Place spinach in a large bowl; break apart into small pieces. Add onion, lemon juice, 2 teaspoons salt, pepper, allspice, cinnamon, and sumac; stir well to combine.

Spinach Mu’ajinaat

round. Shape into traditional triangle shape by pinching edges together to create 3 corners then pinching edges between corners together to enclose filling. Place pies on 2 lightly oiled baking sheets. Brush pies generously with oil. Bake in preheated oven until golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes, rotating pans after 12 minutes. —reem assil

4. Preheat oven to 400°F. Punch down dough, and divide into 24 (1-ounce) pieces. Roll each piece into a ball; cover and let stand 10 minutes. 5. Using a floured rolling pin, roll out each ball into a 4-inch circle on a lightly floured surface. Keep flipping dough and dusting beneath with flour so dough doesn’t stick. 6. Make the pies: Place about 1 1/2 tablespoons filling in center of each pastry

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cup pitted dates, finely chopped

1/4

cup hulled pumpkin seeds (pepitas)

1/4

cup za’atar

2 Tbsp. sesame seeds 1/4

tsp. kosher salt

1/2

cup plus 2 1/2 Tbsp. honey, divided

2 1/2

Tbsp. olive oil

2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses 6 cups labneh or plain whole-milk Greek yogurt 1/2

cup pomegranate arils, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. Stir together oats, dates, pumpkin seeds, za’atar, sesame seeds, and salt in a large bowl. 3. Whisk together 2 1/2 tablespoons honey, olive oil, orange juice, and pomegranate molasses in a small bowl. Pour honey mixture over oat mixture, and stir to combine. 4. Transfer oat mixture to prepared pan, and spread in an even layer. Bake in preheated oven, stirring every 5 minutes, until oats are toasted and begin to look dry, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool completely on baking sheet. (Granola will crisp as it cools.) Store cooled granola in an airtight container until ready to serve. 5. In each of 8 (12-ounce) glasses or bowls, layer 1/4 cup labneh, 2 tablespoons granola, 1 teaspoon pomegranate arils, and 1 teaspoon honey. Repeat 2 times in each glass with remaining labneh, granola, arils, and honey. Serve parfaits immediately. MAKE AHEAD Granola can be baked 5 days ahead. Store in an airtight container at room temperature. —reem assil

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: eva kolenko

FA I R FA X p . 7 1


G R A N D CA F E p. 78 COOK THE COVER

DISH OF THE YEAR Chicken Liver Paris-Brests with Black Honey Glaze

1/2

4 large eggs, at room temperature

photography: greg dupree; food styling: chelsea zimmer; prop styling: claire spollen

Active 35 min; Total 4 hr; Serves 14

In her brilliant interpretation of a ParisBrest (a classic French pastry named for the Paris-Brest-Paris bicycle race), Grand Cafe chef Jamie Malone takes the dessert on a savory trip. She fries rounds of choux pastry to churro-like crispness, sandwiches them around a delicate chicken liver mousse, drizzles the whole thing with a gold-flecked burnt honey glaze, then showers it under a flourish of flaky sea salt. The result is decadent, beautiful, and outrageously delicious. CHICKEN LIVER MOUSSE

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 lb. chicken livers, cleaned 2 thyme sprigs 1 1/2 cups thinly sliced shallots 1 Tbsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. minced garlic 1/4

cup brandy

1 1/4 cups heavy cream 1 1/4 tsp. granulated sugar CHOUX PASTRY

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour (about 6 5/8 oz.) 2 1/2 Tbsp. granulated sugar 1 cup water

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

cup unsalted butter (4 oz.)

1 tsp. kosher salt

Canola oil, for frying BLACK HONEY GLAZE

1 cup honey 1/2

cup half-and-half

1/4

cup high-quality apple cider vinegar

1/4

cup powdered sugar

1/4

tsp. unflavored gelatin

2 Tbsp. heavy cream

3. Transfer cooled cream mixture and cooled chicken livers to a blender. Process until smooth. Pour mixture into a bowl; cover and refrigerate until mixture is chilled and firm, at least 3 hours and up to 3 days. 4. Make the choux pastry: Combine flour and 2 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar in a small bowl. Combine 1 cup water, 1/2 cup butter, and 1 teaspoon kosher salt in a medium saucepan. Cook over medium, stirring, until butter is melted. Increase heat to medium-high, and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat, and stir flour mixture into butter mixture with a wooden spoon. Stir until mixture has a paste-like consistency, about 2 minutes. Return to heat over medium, and cook, stirring rapidly, until mixture pulls away from sides of pan and bottom of pan is clean, 1 to 2 minutes. (The dough will be glossy and smooth but not dry.) Immediately transfer dough to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on low speed to cool slightly and allow for evaporation, 1 minute. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating until fully incorporated after each addition. Beat until dough pulls away from the sides of bowl. 5. Cut parchment or wax paper into 14 (4-inch) squares. Transfer choux pastry to a pastry bag fitted with a large star tip. Pipe dough in a 3-inch round on each parchment square. Freeze until firm, about 30 minutes. Pour canola oil into a Dutch oven to a depth of 3 inches; heat over high to 360°F. Working in batches, place frozen dough rounds on parchment, parchment side up, in hot oil. Fry until golden brown, discarding paper as it detaches, about 5 minutes. Flip and fry 5 minutes. Remove and drain on paper towels. Let cool completely, about 10 minutes.

1. Make the chicken liver mousse: Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium-high. Add chicken livers and thyme. Cook until livers are browned and medium-rare, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove and discard thyme. Transfer livers to a paper towel–lined baking sheet. Let cool completely.

6. Make the black honey glaze: Bring honey to a boil in a medium saucepan over high. Cook until honey is mahogany in color and starts to smell slightly burnt, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in half-and-half, vinegar, powdered sugar, and gelatin. Reduce heat to mediumhigh, and cook until mixture coats the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in 2 tablespoons cream and luster dust, if using. Using an immersion blender, process until smooth and glossy.

2. Add shallots, 1 tablespoon kosher salt, and garlic to skillet; cook over medium-high, stirring often, until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add brandy, scraping to loosen browned bits from bottom of skillet. Cook until slightly reduced. Add 1 1/4 cups cream and 1 1/4 teaspoons granulated sugar. Bring to a boil, and cook until slightly reduced, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, and let cool completely, about 20 minutes.

7. Assemble the Paris-Brests: Transfer mousse to a pastry bag fitted with a large star tip. Using a serrated knife, cut each pastry horizontally into 2 rounds. Pipe mousse in a circle on each bottom pastry half. Dip top pastry halves, top sides down, into honey glaze. Lift out of glaze and allow excess to drip off. Place top pastry round on mousse, and sprinkle with flaky salt. —jamie malone

1 1/2 tsp. edible gold luster dust (optional) Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon)

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combined. Pour mixture through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a large measuring cup or spouted bowl; discard solids. Divide mixture evenly among 4 (6-ounce) pot de crème jars or espresso cups. Place jars in a 4- to 6-inch deep roasting pan. Pour hot water into pan, letting water come up to 1 inch from tops of jars. Cover pan with aluminum foil. Fold up 2 corners to create openings for steam to escape. 3. Bake in preheated oven until edges of pots de crème are set and centers are slightly jiggly, about 50 minutes. Remove jars from water bath and transfer to a wire rack to cool completely, about 1 hour and 30 minutes. Chill until cold, at least 4 hours. Active 25 min; Total 8 hr 45 min Serves 4

Tonka beans, a South American legume with a fruity, vanilla-like aroma, give these chocolate custards from Grand Cafe a hard-to-pin-down spicy fragrance. Purchase them from amazon.com. 3 oz. 36% cacao chocolate (such as Valrhona Caramélia), finely chopped

4. Combine gelatin and 1 tablespoon cold water in a small bowl; let stand 5 minutes. Whisk together coffee and remaining 1 teaspoon sugar in a separate bowl. Stir coffee mixture into gelatin mixture until dissolved. Spoon about 1 1/2 tablespoons onto each chilled pot de crème. Chill until coffee mixture is set, at least 2 hours. Sprinkle with sea salt, if desired, just before serving. —jamie malone

1 oz. 64% cacao chocolate (such as Valrhona Manjari), finely chopped

cup whole milk

4 whole tonka beans or 1 vanilla bean 4 large egg yolks 3 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. granulated sugar, divided 1/8

tsp. kosher salt

1/4

tsp. unflavored gelatin

1 Tbsp. cold water

Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon) (optional)

2. Combine egg yolks, 3 tablespoons sugar, and kosher salt in a large metal bowl. Whisk until combined and pale, 1 minute and 30 seconds to 2 minutes. Gradually add chocolate mixture to egg mixture, whisking constantly, until fully

M AY 2018

2 tsp. plus a squeeze of fresh lemon juice, divided 16 small leeks (about 5 lb. 10 oz.) 1/4

cup unsalted butter

2 Tbsp. minced fresh chives 1/2

tsp. flaky sea salt (such as Maldon) Fresh chervil or tarragon leaves

1. Place cooked egg yolks, raw egg yolk, 1 tablespoon vinegar, mustard, and 1 teaspoon kosher salt in a food processor; pulse until combined. With processor running, slowly drizzle in oil until mixture is thick and smooth. Transfer to a medium bowl. Fold in capers, cornichons, chopped parsley, chopped chervil, chopped tarragon, and chopped egg whites. Stir in 2 teaspoons lemon juice and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt. Cover and chill until ready to serve.

3. Drizzle leeks with remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar and a squeeze of lemon juice. Sprinkle with minced chives and flaky sea salt. Top with sauce gribiche; garnish with chervil or tarragon leaves. —jamie malone

5 Tbsp. strong brewed coffee, warm

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. Place chopped chocolates in a large heatproof bowl; set aside. Combine cream, milk, and tonka beans in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-high, stirring often. Remove from heat. Set bowl with chocolate on top of saucepan. Let tonka beans steep 10 minutes. Pour cream mixture through a fine wire-mesh strainer into bowl with chocolates; discard tonka beans. Gently whisk chocolate mixture until completely smooth and incorporated, about 3 minutes.

2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh chervil 2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh tarragon

2. Rinse leeks. Trim leeks 2 inches above where the white turns to light green; halve lengthwise. Arrange leeks in a single layer in a large, shallow Dutch oven. Add butter, and sprinkle with remaining 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt. Add water to cover leeks by 1 inch. Bring to a simmer over medium. Cook until leeks are tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and place leeks on a serving platter.

1 1/3 cups heavy cream 1/3

2 Tbsp. finely chopped cornichons 2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Poached Leeks with Sauce Gribiche Active 25 min; Total 30 min Serves 8

Poaching leeks mellows their bite and improves their stringy texture, making them a beautiful foundation for sauce gribiche, a creamy dressing of herbs, capers, and cornichons. 3 hard-cooked eggs, yolks pressed through a fine wire-mesh strainer and whites cut into 1/8 -inch pieces, divided 1 large pasteurized raw egg yolk 2 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar, divided 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 2 tsp. kosher salt, divided

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V O YA G E R p . 8 2 Grilled Gulf Shrimp with Comeback Sauce Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 30 min Serves 4

Voyager, a reimagined oyster bar in Ferndale, Michigan, pairs their smoky peel-andeat shrimp with zesty, creamy Comeback Sauce, a Southern condiment traditionally served with fried and grilled Gulf seafood. 1 cup vegetable oil 6 whole garlic cloves plus 1 grated garlic clove, divided 2 Tbsp. Old Bay Seasoning 2 lb. shell-on raw medium-size wild Gulf shrimp, butterflied

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: paul costello

Milk Chocolate Pots de Crème

1 cup canola oil 2 Tbsp. finely chopped capers


K E M U R I TATSU -YA p . 8 3 Sticky-Rice Tamales with Chorizo Active 1 hr; Total 10 hr Makes 16 tamales

Sticky rice takes the place of traditional masa in these delectable shiitake-andchorizo tamales from Kemuri Tatsu-ya in Austin. Red Mexican chorizo melts into the rice, coloring it with its chile-spiked fat. 3 1/2 cups uncooked glutinous rice 6 dried shiitake mushrooms 16 dried corn husks 1 cup mayonnaise (preferably Duke’s) 1/2

cup ketchup

1 celery stalk, peeled and minced 1 Tbsp. prepared horseradish

3 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. chicken bouillon granules

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

1 Tbsp. clam juice

1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

1 Tbsp. mirin

1 Tbsp. minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 1/2 tsp. kosher salt

1 Tbsp. minced cornichon

1 1/2 tsp. grapeseed oil

1 1/2

tsp. minced shallot

1 1/2 tsp. minced capers 1/2

tsp. celery seeds

1/2

tsp. kosher salt

1/2

tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1/2

tsp. lemon zest

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1/4

tsp. cayenne pepper, plus more to taste

1. Combine oil, 6 whole garlic cloves, and Old Bay in a food processor. Process until smooth, about 30 seconds. 2. Place shrimp in large bowl, and add garlic marinade. Cover and chill until ready to grill, at least 1 hour and up to 1 day. 3. Stir together mayonnaise, ketchup, celery, horseradish, Dijon, Worcestershire, parsley, cornichon, shallot, capers, celery seeds, salt, black pepper, lemon zest, lemon juice, cayenne, and grated garlic in a medium bowl. If desired, add additional cayenne to taste.

photography: cedric angeles

5 cups water

4. Remove shrimp from marinade. Preheat a gas grill to high (450°F to 550°F). Grill shrimp, uncovered, until lightly charred and cooked through, about 1 minute and 30 seconds per side. Transfer grilled shrimp to a platter and serve with Comeback Sauce. MAKE AHEAD Comeback Sauce can be prepared up to 3 days ahead. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator. BEER Alabama farmhouse-style ale: Good

People Urban Farmer —jennifer jackson and justin tootla

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

1 1/2 tsp. toasted sesame oil 1 lb. fresh Mexican chorizo, casings removed Melted unsalted butter, for brushing

1. Place rice in a large bowl, and rinse under cold running water until water runs clear. Add water to cover rice, add shiitakes, and let stand at room temperature 8 hours or overnight. 2. Place corn husks in a large bowl. Add hot water to cover, and let stand until pliable, about 1 hour. Meanwhile, drain rice and shiitakes. Remove and discard shiitake stems; chop shiitake caps. 3. Bring 5 cups water just to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat, and whisk in soy sauce, bouillon, clam juice, mirin, and salt. 4. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In an extra-large skillet or wok, heat the grapeseed and sesame oils over high until nearly smoking. Add chorizo and cook, stirring occasionally, until fat is rendered and meat is just starting to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chorizo to a bowl. Pour off and discard all but 2 tablespoons drippings from skillet. 5. Add rice and shiitakes to skillet, and cook over medium-high, stirring constantly, until rice is opaque, about 3 minutes. Add ½ cup broth and cook, stirring constantly, until nearly absorbed. Continue adding broth, ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly, until broth is nearly absorbed between additions. The rice is done when translucent

95

and very sticky, about 20 minutes. 6. Drain corn husks. Place 1 corn husk on a work surface with narrow end facing you. Brush wide half of husk with melted butter. Scoop about ¼ cup rice mixture onto buttered half and spread in an even layer, leaving a ¼-inch border on the sides and top. Spread 2 tablespoons chorizo down center of rice mixture. Fold the sides of the husk around filling, and then fold narrow end up to cover filling and close the tamale (the top should remain open). Repeat with the remaining husks, rice mixture, and chorizo to make a total of 16 tamales. 7. Arrange tamales, seam side down, in a large steamer basket (stack tamales in several layers if necessary). Fill a large saucepan with water to a depth of 2 inches. Place steamer basket in saucepan, and cover with a sheet of parchment paper and lid. Bring water to a boil, and reduce heat to medium-low. Steam tamales until rice is just firm, about 10 minutes. Uncover and let cool slightly before serving. MAKE AHEAD The tamales can be refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat gently before serving. WINE Earthy Mourvèdre: 2015 Donkey &

Goat Twinkle —tatsu aikawa and takuya matsumoto

J U N E BA BY p. 8 4 Antebellum Emmer Rolls with Honey Butter Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 55 min Makes 32

At JuneBaby in Seattle, chef Edouardo Jordan explores the flavors of the South. His extra-tender dinner rolls—served with honey butter—feature emmer, an heirloom wheat, also sold as farro. 2 1/3 cups all-purpose flour (about 10 oz.), plus more for dusting 3/4

cup whole-wheat flour (about 3 oz.)

1/2

cup emmer flour (about 2 oz.)

3 Tbsp. granulated sugar 1 Tbsp. plus 1/2 tsp. instant yeast (about 2 [ 1/4 -oz.] envelopes) 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided 1 1/2 cups whole buttermilk, warmed ½ cup (4 oz.) plus 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled, plus more melted butter for brushing 1 large egg Neutral oil, for greasing 3/4

cup unsalted butter (6 oz.), softened

3 Tbsp. honey

M AY 2018


1. Combine flours, sugar, yeast, and 1 tablespoon salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment. 2. Whisk together buttermilk, melted butter, and egg in a large bowl. 3. Add buttermilk mixture to flour mixture. Beat on low speed until combined, about 1 minute and 30 seconds. (Dough will be very wet.) Scrape down sides of bowl, and beat until dough starts to come together and pulls away from sides of bowl, about 6 minutes. 4. Lightly grease a large bowl with oil. Transfer dough to bowl, turning to coat. Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. 5. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine softened butter, honey, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Beat on medium speed until light and creamy, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl. 6. Turn dough out onto a floured work surface, and divide it into 32 (1 1/4-ounce) pieces, each about the size of a golf ball. Pat each piece into a 1/2-inch-thick disk, gather the disk’s edges, and press edges together to form a ball. Arrange dough balls close together in a 12-inch cast-iron skillet. Cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place until rolls double in size, about 30 minutes. While rolls rise, preheat oven to 350°F. 7. Remove and discard plastic wrap. Bake rolls in preheated oven until golden brown, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven, and brush with melted butter. Serve with roomtemperature honey butter. —edouardo jordan

L ASA p. 8 6 Condensed-Milk Ice Cream with Black Sesame Polvoron Active 35 min; Total 8 hr 35 min Serves 8

At LASA in Los Angeles, Chad Valencia makes this easy ice cream from just whipped cream and sweetened condensed milk (no churning required!) and tops it simply with a black sesame crumble. 2 cups heavy cream 1 (14-oz.) can sweetened condensed milk

1. Place cream in a large chilled bowl; beat with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. Gently fold in condensed milk until fully incorporated (do not overmix). Cover bowl with plastic wrap so that plastic rests on surface of mixture. Freeze until firm, 8 to 10 hours. 2. Preheat oven to 325°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Spread rice flour in a thin layer on prepared baking sheet. Toast in preheated oven until flour smells nutty and is sandy in color, 12 to 14 minutes. Set aside. On a second parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet, spread sesame seeds in a thin, even layer, and toast until fragrant, 6 to 8 minutes. Let stand until cool. 3. Place 1/3 cup toasted sesame seeds in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until seeds are coarsely ground, about 8 times. 4. Sift powdered milk, sugar, and toasted rice flour into a large bowl. Add ground sesame seeds and remaining toasted sesame seeds to bowl. Gently stir in melted butter. Let cool; transfer to an airtight container. 5. To serve, spoon 3 small scoops of ice cream into a bowl, and sprinkle liberally with sesame mixture. —chad valencia

Crispy Duck Arroz Caldo Active 2 hr; Total 17 hr; Serves 8

Arroz caldo, a comforting Filipino rice porridge, is typically made with chicken, but chef Valencia uses duck confit and a gingerleek broth to season the dish. A final splash of calamansi juice (a cousin to kumquat and lime) adds brightness and balance. DUCK CONFIT

8 duck legs with thighs attached (about 6 1/2 lb.) 1/4

cup kosher salt

10 to 12 cups rendered duck fat, melted GINGER-LEEK BROTH

6 quarts water 3 lb. duck, turkey, or chicken bones, rinsed 2 cups sliced yellow onions 1 cup sliced leek (white and light green parts only) 1/4

cup sliced unpeeled ginger

1 head garlic, halved

cup brown rice flour

2 cups medium-grain brown rice, rinsed

1/2

cup black sesame seeds

1/2

cup powdered milk

2 Tbsp. fish sauce, preferably Megachef

1/4

cup granulated sugar cup unsalted butter, melted

M AY 2018

4 cups snow pea tendrils 2 tsp. calamansi or lime juice 1/8

tsp. kosher salt

1/2

cup store-bought fried garlic

1. Make the duck confit: Rub duck legs with 1/4 cup salt in a large, 3-inch-deep roasting pan. Cover and chill 8 to 12 hours. 2. Preheat oven to 225°F. Brush salt from duck legs, and rinse roasting pan. Arrange duck in roasting pan in a single layer. Pour fat over duck, and roast in preheated oven until duck legs are tender but not falling apart, about 3 hours. Let cool in fat at room temperature. Cover and chill 8 hours or overnight. 3. Make the ginger-leek broth: Combine 6 quarts water, duck bones, onions, leek, sliced ginger, and garlic in an 8-quart stockpot. Bring to a simmer over mediumhigh. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer 4 hours, skimming solids from top of stock for first 10 minutes of simmering. Strain and discard solids. 4. Make the arroz caldo: Bring 8 cups ginger-leek broth to a simmer in a large saucepan over high. Add brown rice and bring to boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low to maintain a gentle simmer and cover. Simmer, stirring occasionally to prevent scalding, until rice is very tender and broth is thick, 1 hour to 1 hour and 10 minutes. Stir in fish sauce, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, and grated ginger. 5. Remove duck legs from fat, and scrape excess fat from legs. Reserve fat. Heat about 2 cups reserved duck fat in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high. Add 4 duck legs to pan; cook until skin is very crispy, 8 to 10 minutes. Flip duck legs, and cook until crispy, about 8 minutes. Remove from skillet and repeat with remaining 4 duck legs. 6. To serve, ladle 3/4 cup arroz caldo into each of 8 bowls. Place 1 duck leg, skin side up, in center of each bowl. In a medium bowl, combine pea tendrils, calamansi juice, and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Arrange dressed tendrils around duck legs over arroz caldo. Sprinkle each bowl with about 1 tablespoon fried garlic. WINE Complex, substantial rosé: 2017

Chateau de Pibarnon Bandol Rosé —chad valencia

ARROZ CALDO

1/4

1/4

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS

1 tsp. kosher salt 1 1/2

tsp. grated peeled fresh ginger

96

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E


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MOST WANTED from p. 100

Tortuga Rum Cake Active 25 min; Total 3 hr 10 min; Serves 8

A soak in rum simple syrup keeps this lightly boozy Bundt cake from Clear Flour Bread in Brookline, Massachusetts, moist. CAKE

1 3/4 cups almond flour (about 6 1/8 oz.) 1/2

cup all-purpose flour (about 2 1/8 oz.), plus more for dusting

1/2

tsp. kosher salt

3/4

cup unsalted butter (6 oz.), at room temperature, plus more for greasing

1 cup granulated sugar 4 large eggs, at room temperature 2 Tbsp. Myers’s Original Dark Rum RUM SIMPLE SYRUP 1/4

cup granulated sugar

1/4

cup water

1. Make the cake: Preheat oven to 325°F. Generously grease a 6- to 8-cup Kugelhopf or Bundt pan with butter, and dust lightly with all-purpose flour. 2. Whisk together almond flour, all-purpose flour, and salt in a medium bowl. Set aside. 3. Place butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until pale and creamy, about 3 minutes. Gradually add 1 cup granulated sugar, beating until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Scrape down sides of bowl, and add eggs, 1 at a time, beating until well combined after each addition. (Batter may look slightly broken; do not overmix.) 4. Reduce speed to medium-low, and add flour mixture to butter mixture, one-third at a time, beating for 15 seconds after each addition, stopping as necessary to scrape down sides of bowl to ensure all flour is incorporated.

1 Tbsp. Myers’s Original Dark Rum VANILLA ICING

2 Tbsp. whole milk 1 tsp. vanilla bean paste

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1 1/2

cups powdered sugar, sifted

5. Scoop 1/2 cup batter into a small bowl, and whisk in 2 tablespoons rum. Add rum batter back to remaining batter, and stir to combine. (Dough may not be completely smooth; do not overmix.)

6. Spoon batter into prepared pan, and tap pan against counter to distribute evenly. Bake in preheated oven until golden brown and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 42 to 45 minutes. 7. Make the rum simple syrup: While cake bakes, combine 1/4 cup sugar and 1/4 cup water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat, and stir in 1 tablespoon rum. Return to low heat, and keep warm. 8. Place cake in pan on a wire rack set inside a baking sheet. Pour 3 tablespoons rum simple syrup over cake. Cool cake 10 minutes. Invert cake onto rack, and brush with remaining syrup. Let cool completely, about 1 hour and 30 minutes. 9. Make the vanilla icing: Whisk together milk and vanilla bean paste in a small bowl. Place powdered sugar in a medium bowl, and whisk in milk mixture until smooth. 10. Pour vanilla icing over cake, and let stand until icing is set, about 30 minutes. Serve immediately, or store in an airtight container at room temperature up to 3 days.

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RECIPE REQUEST

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HUNGRY FOR MORE?

For more Mother’s Day recipes, go to foodandwine.com/ slideshows/ mothers-day.

A Boozy Bundt Cake EVERY MOTHER’S DAY when I was growing up, my dad would sneak out in the early morning to buy treats for the whole family from Clear Flour Bread in Brookline, Massachusetts. He’d arrive home with crackly baguettes, still-warm sticky buns, and pain au chocolat, which we hastily and happily devoured. As an adult, I still make regular pilgrimages to the bakery—but now I order the decidedly grown-up Tortuga M AY 2018

Rum Cake (p. 98), an almond-and-vanilla Bundt cake made boozy and moist by a soak in rum simple syrup. Inspired by the traditional Caribbean rum cake with a nod to Bouchon Bakery (whose recipe includes almond flour), the cake is rich and not too sweet, perfect for a lazy Sunday morning or afternoon pick-me-up with black coffee or tea. 178 Thorndike St.; clearflourbread.com —MARYFRANCES HECK 100

F O L L O W U S @ F O O DA N D W I N E

photography: greg dupree; food styling: torie cox; prop styling: alistair turnbull

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HANDCR AFTED WITH MORE THAN TEQUILA IN MIND.

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