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KOPI CULTURE MAR|APR15 | volume 2, Issue 03 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00

INSIDE

Adi Taroepratjeka, Coffee Guru Widyapratama of Kopi Aroma Esperto Barista School Coffee Time with Sezai Zorlu


Be Naturally Beautiful “Being happy, healthy and beautiful is easy with Éternel Concept’s lifestyle treatments.” - Ina Thomas

É TERNEL CONCEP T Jalan Gunawarman No.16, 2nd floor Kebayoran Baru - Jakarta Selatan 021.722.9502 | 0821.1060.3082 info@eternelconcept.com


P U B L I S H E R ’ S N OT E

Publisher (TA)

Kopi Culture I am a tall latte, one sugar. How about you? I have was never really a coffee drinker before. I remember when Starbucks first opened in Manila, my friends and I were excited. We queued up for 40 minutes and ordered, frappuccinos! As more Starbucks opened and it became a regular hang out place for people, I started to order an Americano to which I happily asked them to add a few pumps of caramel or hazelnut syrup. Looking back at all of that, I have to snicker at myself and say: “What was I thinking!” My coffee epiphany came on a trip to Italy. I observed the locals order their un caffe at the espresso bars, while standing up and some would down their espresso in one go, At first I was afraid to order my own, not sure if I could pronounce it correctly. But I tried and surprisingly, I liked it. In making this coffee issue, it was very evident that many coffee fans out there are extremely passionate with their coffee. I was reluctant to do a coffee issue in the beginning because of the many facets of the industry. Luckily, we had the help of Mr. Coffee himself, Adi Taroepratjeka. For those who don’t know him, Adi is a coffee consultant and has spent many years learning about coffee and the local industry. Not only was he our content consultant for this issue, he was also our inspiration tying to come up with the best coffee issue we could make. We are extremely thankful for Adi’s help. Adi directed us to the different sides of the coffee business. We visited Pak Yoseph Kusuniyanto, a coffee farmer in Bandung. Also met Franky Angkawidjaya of Esperto Barista Course, who has made it his mission to teach about coffee and how to make the perfect cup of coffee. Our Stuff of Legends section features Pak Widyapratama, master roaster of Kopi Aroma. We also feature such coffee personalities as Toni Wahid of the Cikopi blog, Nathalia Gunawan of 1/15 Coffee and Aston Utan of Common Grounds. Since coffee is very customizable, it has become extremely personal, making it easy for everyone to relate to it easily. How ever you take your coffee, I hope you are able to imbibe, even just by a little bit, the passion of the foodies we featured in this issue. And as tribute, we raise our cups to them.

Richmond Blando

Publisher Jed V. Doble Managing Editor

Kyle Gregorio

Art Director

Juke Bachtiar

Photographer

Dennie Ramon

Contributors

Himawan Sutanto Melanie Tanusetiawan Adithya Pratama Gupta Sitorus Primo Rizky Fellixandro Ruby Rafael Reyes Rian Farisa

Administration

Boedy Astuti

Distribution

Mukti Pelupessy

PT. NUSA BINTANG LESTARI Jl. Gunawarman no. 16 • Kebayoran Baru South Jakarta • Indonesia Tel: +62 21 2905 3959

Enjoy!W JED V. DOBLE

www.thefoodiemag.com

KOPI CULTURE MAR|APR15 | volume 2, Issue 03 Rp. 55,000 | S$ 8.00

INSIDE

Adi Taroepratjeka, Coffee Guru Widyapratama of Kopi Aroma Esperto Barista School Coffee Time with Sezai Zorlu

Photograph by HIMAWAN SUTANTO

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The Foodie Magazine is published monthly by Bold Prints Publishing. Jalan Gunawarman No. 16, Jakarta, Indonesia. The Foodie Magazine and its logo are registered trademarks of Bold Prints Publishing. COPYRIGHT 2015. The Publisher reserves the right to accept or reject all editorial and advertising material. No part of this magazine may be reproduced or copied without the explicit written consent of the Publisher. Neither the Publisher, editors and their employees and agents can be held liable for any error and omission, nor any action taken based on the views expressed or information provided within this publication. All rights reserved. ISSN: 2355-0198.


C O N T R I B U TO R S

THE GUEST LIST

HIMAWAN SUTANTO Photographer

Himawan did portraiture for editorial, advertising and design clients for many years and also had a stint doing commercial photography. His love for food and travel brought him naturally to turn his lens on food and lifestyle which he thoroughly enjoys. He has recently been traveling to take photos for a global hotel chain. When not away shooting photos he tries to spend as much time with his newborn son.

MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN Photographer

Melanie graduated from Melbourne’s RMIT with a Bachelor of Arts in Photography and is well known for her vivid dreamlike imagination.  Her love for simple living, food and people is reflected through her lifestyle work. She has also been actively involved in exhibitions and has won various awards.  www.studio-melt.com

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ADITHYA PRATAMA Writer

After two diplomas in pastry and bakery arts, Adithya left the kitchen and began writing and styling for magazines about his one and only passion: food. While still contributing for magazines in Indonesia, Adithya is now living in New York City pursuing a degree in Food Studies while queueing for Broadway shows every wednesday. Join his mouth-watering adventures on Instagram @adith1801

GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY Writers

This dynamic duo has always had a strong passion for food. They decided to enter the culinary industry in 2012 by launching their handcrafted gourmet ice cream brand, although none of them had prior culinary experience. Both have day jobs, Gupta works as country communications manager for the global leader in power and automation technologies, while Primo, heads Studio Geometry, an independent publishing house that focuses on creative culture.

Fellixandro Ruby

RIAN FARISA

Ruby calls himself a Food Storyteller, essentially that is what he loves: sharing stories about food, travel, culinary hits and misses. He says he has tasted Michelin Star restaurants, but his ultimate comfort is Cheese Martabak. See more of his food and travel experiences on his famous blog, www. wanderbites.com

Once a foodie, always a foodie. Rian started his popular food blog gastronomy-aficionado. com in 2009. He has since become a culinary contributor for lifestyle and inflight magazines and newspapers. His job ranges from having intriguing conversations with celebrity chefs to memorizing the French names of Michelin-starred dishes he encounters. But at the end of the day he enjoys his scouring the city for good soul food with his beloved wife.  

Writer

Writer


Progressive Indonesian Cuisine Sriwijaya Restaurant

Sriwijaya Restaurant offers the new dining concept of Progressive Indonesian cuisine, a modern approach of Indonesian dishes presented in an elegant way using French technique, combining the flavors of East and West. Delight in our Bunaken Style Half Lobster Tail or Sous Vide Rawon Short Ribs specially crafted by our Chef de Cuisine, Emmanuel Julio and team, in a warm and majestic atmosphere alongside impeccable service.

Opens daily for dinner from 6.30 PM – 11 PM

Terms and conditions apply

For further information, please contact Sriwijaya at (62-21) 725 8181 ext. 6228

Jl. Brawijaya Raya No. 26, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta 12160, Indonesia Tel: (62-21) 725 8181 | Fax: (62-21) 725 8383 | reservation@the-dharmawangsa.com| www.the-dharmawangsa.com


TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

The Foodie magazine volume 2, Issue 03

Things That Make You Go Yum 12 Kopi Culture

Publisher’s (Ta) Corner 14 Junk This!

The Foodie’s List 16 20 22 24 26 28 30

Coffee Time At The Pasar Turning Point Café A New Italian Going To Markette David Myer’s Adrift Afternoon Delights A Culinary Journey

Cover Feature: Magical Christmas 32 38 42 44 48 54

Roasting And Brewing With Peminum Kopi Lessons In Life From A Coffee Grower An Afternoon With Felix Coffee With Sezai Coffee Passion Meeting Daniel

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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

Went There Ate That 60 Coffee Hopping in Tokyo 64 Melbourne Coffee Walking Tour

Finer Things 68 IndoCafé – The White House

Tried And Tipsied 70 The Jakarta Sling 72 Pick Me Up Then F*** Me Up

Taking It To The Streets 74 Madtari 76 Nasi Uduk Gondangdia

Iconic 78 Kopi Es Tak Kie

A Foodie’s Life 80 Toni Wahid 82 Nathalia Gunawan

Confessions Of A Foodie 84 Dee Lestari 86 Aston Utan

Tried And Tested 88 Fresh Apple Tart

Stuff Of Legends 92 Widyapratama – Master Roaster

Pantry 101 96 Coffee Methods

What Chef Eats 98 Winnie Kusumawardhani

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T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M by RIAN FARISA

Things That Make You Go Yum is monthly column featuring our choices of the best food photos on Instagram. If you think you have a great photo worth sharing with us, tag it with #TTMYGY and @TheFoodieMag

@abcd _ coffee

@autan1

@ang _ sonny

@atableforfatkids

@danny _ aw

@eddydye

@fennysiawijaya

@filipusverdi

@edihartono _ liem @fx _ effendy

@heneedsfood

@heytheresia 12 | www. thefoodiemag.com


T H I N G S T H AT M A K E Y O U G O Y U M Millions of cups consumed everyday, coffee is the life blood which keeps us going. This month we highlight some extremely creative coffee photo from our Instagram fans.

@injie

@foodescape _id

@indrafeb

@intercontinentaljakarta

@lucywiryono

@letterd _

@@reinaldo _ k

@sorayahamid

@stepahniesekar

@williamsudhana

@vikirahardja

@yelyakurniawan www. thefoodiemag.com | 13


P U B L I S H E R ’ S CO R N E R

How to train your customers by RICHMOND BLANDO

I

have always found it puzzling the way the business model of Starbucks came to be, I find it extremely confounding that it is only Starbucks (at least from my experience) that will have the gall to open another Starbucks right in front of their store or at least within a spitting distance of its proximity. The comedian, Lewis Black, once made a joke and said the ones that benefit the most are people with Alzheimer’s. “Here is a person who finishes drinking his coffee, steps out of the door of Starbucks and sees another from across the street and says “Look, a Starbucks!”

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“…it was either an assault on decency itself or the most brilliant decision Howard Shultz ever made.” - Taylor Clark, Starbucked Well as the story goes, it was around 1991 in Robson Street shopping district of Vancouver, British Columbia, the unappealing and dilapidated coffee shop with almost no room to serve customers was experiencing a time when people were willing to pay for expensive coffee drinks. Lattes still seemed exotic back then as a result this coffee shop served 10,000 people a week but lost hundreds of potential customers due to the long lines. Needless to say, it losing that many customers didn’t sit well with Shultz, he even became more desperate as he learned that the landlord of the building

was planning to close down in a few years leaving his number one store (there was already 85 cafes in existence) out to dry. He saw a losing restaurant across the street and asked his realtor, “What about that one?” “It was not a different neighborhood, but it had a different vibe.” Shultz told Newsweek later. To make a long story short, that singular moment of brilliance or audacity was either going to be the start of a failed experiment or the turning point of, what was then, a losing franchise. It was the latter. Fast forward to 2005 and Starbucks is still one of the most successful gourmet


P U B L I S H E R ’ S CO R N E R

coffee franchises in the world, but the challenge of the long lines still haunted them. The problem was the customer. “…could you use skim milk instead of whole, and make sure it’s hot, use that cup… no the other small one…” This is the familiar song and dance of an inexperienced Starbucks customer, it held up the line to no end. Starbucks then had another bold but subtle move to “train” customers. They released a pamphlet in 2003, “Make it your Drink: A guide to Starbucks Beverages”, this was a step closer in training

customers the difference between “tall” and “venti” and the other lingo that the baristas use. “Here’s a way to think about it:…your customers “work” for you…But these aren’t your average employees. They are erratic, unskilled and entitled.” Uncommon Service by Frances Frei and Anne Morriss

With every wrong order, the barista yells out the order in the right format, the current

customer gets a pamphlet; the one behind him hears the way it should be ordered and soon enough customers have learned the true form of Starbucks-speak. Well there you have it, these are two examples of how Starbucks put servicing the customer at the helm of their business, from making the big gesture of having the balls of opening another branch from across the street and how to subtly “train” your customers in a more palatable manner, if not downright fun. Now make my order a “To go, doubletall, hazelnut, extra hot, latte.

How to order

If you’re nervous about ordering, don’t be. There’s no “right” way to order at Starbucks. Just tell us what you want and we’ll get it to you. But if we call your drink back in a way that’s different from what you told us, we’re not correcting you. We’re just translating your order into “barista-speak” - a standard way our baristas call out orders. This language gives the baristas the info they need in the order they need it, so they can make your drink as quickly and efficiently as possible. “Barista-speak” is easy to learn. It’s all about the order of information. There are five steps to the process. 1. CUP. The first thing a barista needs to know is what cup to grab for your drink. If you don’t specify, we’ll put it in our to-go cup. But you can also ask for a for-here, iced or personal cup. 2. SHOTS AND SIZE. Do you want decaf or extra espresso? Here’s something to know: Tall (12 fl. oz.) drinks usually come with one shot;

Grandes (16 fl. oz.) have two. Venti drinks have two (for 20 fl. oz. hot drinks) or three (for 24 fl. oz. cold drinks). If you add a shot to a tall, you’re getting a double-tall. 3. SYRUP. This is the most popular way to customize. We have many different syrup flavors to sweeten or spice up a drink. 4. MILK AND OTHER MODIFIERS. This is when you tell us what milk you want. And if you want something else, like “extra hot” or “extra foamy.” 5. THE DRINK ITSELF. Don’t forget the most important part! Are you having a latte, a mocha - or something entirely different? From: Make It Your Drink: A Guide to Starbucks Beverage (Seattle, WA: Starbucks Press 2003)

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F O O DI E L I S T S

01

Coffee Time At The Pasar by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY photographs by DENNIE RAMON

H

ere, you can find quite lot of coffee kiosks, mostly run by creative and independent owners, giving the lowly pasar, the new moniker as a coffee hub in Jakarta. We walked through the maze of corridors and alleys and find some of the best coffee in Pasar Santa.

ABCD (A Bunch of Caffeine Dealers)

ABCD pioneered the so-called coffee movement at Pasar Santa. Positioning itself as a school of coffee, ABCD is a combination workshop, stall, and pop-up coffee bar. Here you can join the coffee classes, which are held on a regular basis, while indulge your coffee craving with an interesting collection of coffee making equipment and enjoy sipping a cup of exquisite coffee that you prepare yourself, assisted by professional baristas as instructor of the workshop. ABCD offers super premium coffee beans originating from different plantations in Indonesia and outside the country. They also often have in supply special varieties of coffee beans from coffee boutique or micro roasters. Interestingly, ABCD has no fixed operational time, so you should always keep an eye on the information they post on social media.

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Pasar Santa in Kebayoran Baru has transformed into a vibrant and diverse food market. As Jakarta’s newest hot spot, it offers a wide array of delectable food and beverage to enjoy, including coffee.


F O O DI E L I S T S

Gayobies Coffee

Gayobies Coffee, which is owned by the Mahaga family, only process coffee beans grown at their plantation in Gayo, Central Aceh. The plantation was established by the older Mahagas in 1926, which was initially focused on supplying coffee beans to numerous domestic and overseas markets. Over time, the Mahaga family realized the importance of creating an added value, so they set up the coffee kiosk that serves the famous Gayo coffee as well as sell packed coffee beans. Gayobies Coffee offers various coffee

PASAR SANTA | Jalan Cipaku I, Senopati, Jakarta

drinks, such as Kopi Tubruk (finely grind bean and boiling water without filtering) and espresso-based drinks. Prepare to be surprised, Gayobies also has the one and only Gayobies Duren, an affogato with a local touch: it’s a fantastic blend of espresso served with vanilla ice cream and fresh durian fruit. You also can buy their Gayo coffee to be enjoyed at home, available in two varieties: the Gayobies Sunset which is medium roast, and Gayobies Night, a dark roast variety of Gayo coffee. Gayobies is open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 11:00 AM - 10:00 PM

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F O O DI E L I S T S

Kopi Kopi

Kopi Kopi is located on the Ground Floor of Pasar Santa, and is one of the latest coffee shops opened there. The business was set out with a vision to introduce indigenous Indonesian coffee beans such as Gayo Organic, Lintong Blue Batak, Java Pancur, Kintamani, Toraja Sapan, to their signature House Blend which consists of Mandailing, Toraja, Java and Lampung coffee. The shop recommends the Bajawa coffee that went through the unique honey process and Lintong Blue Batak that mostly were marketed for exports. With an open shop concept, Kopi Kopi offers a unique experience to its consumers, to see the brewing process or even brew your own coffee there! Kopi Kopi is open for business from Wednesday to Sunday, from 4:00 PM

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F O O DI E L I S T S

02

Turning Point Café by KYLE GREGORIO

The owners of the recently opened Turning Point Coffee, Angeline and Joseph, sits down with The Foodie magazine and shares with us on how they started the café and how they would like to share the culture of Melbourne, where they spent most of their adult lives in, with us.

A

ngeline and Joseph used to live in Melbourne for almost 10 years. They went back to Jakarta for good on 2014. Angeline majored in accounting and worked in a financial planning company for 3 years while Joseph had a full time IT job. While in working in Melbourne, at the back of their minds, they have always wanted to go back to Indonesia and start their own thing. A few friends approached them and the idea of opening a coffee shop in Jakarta came from them back in 2011. We weren’t coffee drinkers at that time and through one of our friends, we started our interest in specialty coffee. We then started to educate ourselves more about coffee. Joseph and I started drinking more coffee. When we go to a cafés, we start to be more aware of what coffee they served and the tasting profiles” says Angeline. The friends that initially approached them to start the coffee place ended up doing their own ventures and they ended up with just the two of them to start the coffee business in Indonesia. Its two different stories on how the two started to drink coffee religiously. For joseph, on his first job from 2005 to 2009, he drank coffee everday with his colleagues. “Everyday, regardless of what project I was on, which company I worked with, everyone drank coffee in the morning and the same group would go again for afternoon tea in the afternoon. Another coffee. I start drinking lots of coffee, daily from 2005 to 2011” says Joseph. For Angeline it is the other way around, after the conversation with their friend was when she started to drink coffee. “At that time, I wasn’t fully satisfied with my job at the financial planning company. I didn’t find it motivating enough. I’ve always had this interest of doing a business that not only

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focuses on profit but also does something good for the environment and the people in the community. “What we’ve seen majority of the hospitality business in Indonesia and their quite different compared to overseas. Plus at that time, we haven’t seen an F n B business is run and operated by the owner. Normally the owner is just sitting up there in the office and hire a manager or a supervisor and let them run the business. We want to create a different culture. We have seen the potentials of how when owners are on the floor the values and the vibe that the owner wants to create in the cafe is passed through to the staff and then passed through to the customer. So that’s the kind of culture that we would like to create which is going to be quite different compared to other hospitality business”, explained Joseph. Opening Turning Point Coffee, the biggest step they had to take was to sell their assets in Melbourne. The profit that they got from selling their assets basically went to opening the business. “When we were looking at this place, we saw that it our current location had a huge potential in Serpong, BSD area. There is no one doing this level of specialty coffee and there are a lot of housing communities that can be our potential customers. The backyard is also something that I really like. They opened Turning Point Coffee on December 30, 2014. The must tries is their lattes and cappuccinos. In the next few years they plan to open another venture with a different concept also in Serpong area. On their spare time they love to dine out and eat good food. This is what they learned in Melbourne, to visit new restaurants and gain more knowledge about food.


F O O DI E L I S T S

TURNING POINT CAFÉ | Jalan Ki Hajar Dewantara, Ruko Golden 8 Extension Blok K no. 10, Gading Serpong, Tangerang T: +62 811 1131 984

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F O O DI E L I S T S

03

A New Italian by JED DOBLE

T

he minute I walked into GIA, I knew it was going to be special. Located at Sampoerna Strategic Square, the venue immediately mesmerizes with its high ceiling, black and white marble tile floor and well-appointed furniture. It is modern and sleek, and it gave me the feeling of being welcomed into a lavish home. Service was swift and attentive. The night I was there, we were celebrating a friend’s birthday and I had very specific instructions for the birthday cake. I was promptly told that the cake we ordered had arrived and was in the chiller and that they were waiting fo my instructions on when to bring it out. That arranged, we sat at the table, the celebrant arrived and the dinner began. The gorgeous food creations are by executive chef, Tommaso Gonfiantini, who has worked with two of the most respectable Italian chefs in the world, Filippo La Mantina and one-Michelin-star chef, Fulvio Pierangelini. The dishes are perfect combination of Italian traditional cooking, with a modern touch, which not only focuses on pleasing the taste buds, but also the eyes of the beholder. The dishes end up being too pretty to eat! Chef Tommaso tells us that the menu focuses on fresh as well as seasonal ingredients, although many of the ingredients are imported directly from Italy. We ordered our starters and mains and hankered down with some bubbly. The usual animated banter ensued. Although excited conversation rang through the table, once the food arrived, everyone settled and began to eat. The food was met with ooohhhs and aahhhs of approval. We had ordered well. We had the Burrata, air-flown fresh burrata with heirloom tomatoes, basil pesto and extra virgin olive oil. We also had the Portobello, grilled Portobello mushroom, truffle fondue, tatsoi and aged balsamic. The Porchetta, char-grilled pork belly and foie gras, apple puree and balsamic shallots. And finally the Polipo, iron skillet roasted octopus, white bean and lentil puree and tomatoes. The burrata was

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Culinary giant Ismaya has recently opened their newest establishment, GIA. A restaurant and lounge concept, which blends modern design and Italian luxury and opulence.

creamy and delicious, the dish was light and refreshing. The Portobello was rich and deeply flavored but very delicious. The porchetta was my favorite starter, perfectly grilled and the foie served as a creamy counterpoint to the flavor of the pork. My favorite dish of the night was the Ricci pasta. It was spaghettini with air-flown sea urchin, black caviar and pork crackling. The sea urchin mixed through the pasta together with the tangy sauce, provided for a warm and creamy texture to the dish. The bits of crackling, once sprinkled throughout, added a different dimension to the dish. Sublime. The other mains were equally flavorful and rich. We had the Branzino, salt-crusted sea bass, lemon garlic, oregano dressing, tatsoi. The Pancetta, crispy pork belly, chickpea puree, red onion jam, roasted baby potatoes. And the Fegato, foie gras, duck confit, creamy spinach, mushrooms, port wine duck jus. All hit the mark on interesting flavors and textures. Desserts were held their own and were equally satisfying. We had the Valrohna Chocolate Symphony, 60% gelato, 75% tart, 85% mousse drizzled with exta virgin olive oil and a dash of salt. The Butterscotch Budino, with salted caramel and the Tiramisu Traditional, which is Chef Tommaso’s grandmother’s recipe. At the end of the meal, I can safely say that we did order well. Everyone was full and satiated, our palates happy and the birthday boy, brimming. The lounge at Gia serves a wide selection of rare liquors, unique cocktails and an impressive wine list. The lounge’s contemporary and elegant interior, makes it is an ideal venue for a stylish and informal repartee with friends or for pre or post dinner drinks, or even simply relaxing with friends. In all, GIA was a truly memorable experience, from the interiors, the service, the food and drink and most especially, the company I had that night. I can safely say that I would definitely come back and even recommend GIA to other friends. I actually can’t wait to be back, just to have the Ricci pasta, and this time, I won’t share!


F O O DI E L I S T S

GIA | Sampoerna Strategic Square, Jalan Jenderal Sudirman Kav 45-46, Jakarta | T: +62 21 5795 3300 www.ismaya.com/gia | Instagram & Twitter: GIAJakarta

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F O O DI E L I S T S

04

Going To Markette by RAFAEL REYES

The Grand Indonesia East Mall renovation has given birth to a number of interesting eateries. One of these new venues is Ismaya Group’s Publik Markette

P

ublik Markette is a fun and interesting concept where the food offerings change daily. It is an ode to cafeteria-style dining but highlights freshness, seasonality and simplicity. Now, he starts his debut in Jakarta with Letter D., as adopted from the initial of his name. It describes his life in a canvass of culinary excellence and the desire to achieve perfection through simplicity. The interiors are warm and inviting. Some tones and décor are reminiscent of sister-venue Kitchenette but that is not a big issue. I particularly like the whimsical details: the light bulb flower vases are very cute, the greenish blue tile and the yellow detail are also attractive, the plaid seat covering plus all of the signages were very interesting. Without a doubt, the Ismaya Group is always on the top of its game when it comes to design and interiors. During lunchtime, when we visited, there was a bright stream of light coming from the windows, which illuminated the space, making it easier to take the de rigueur set of food photos. Guests order food from the Publik Markette food gallery on display. A feast for the eyes, the gallery showcases a top-quality selection of international comfort foods. Starting from the soup of the day, a wide collection of meats and fish, to the veggies section where guests can get their fresh salads. There is also a display of freshly baked crostone, focaccia, and quiche. The sweets gallery with its luscious assortment of desserts never fails to tempt guests too. Once orders are made, the chefs will then plate these and deliver it to their respective tables. The food gallery is available for lunch (11:30am

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- 2:30pm) and dinner (6:30pm - 9:30pm). Outside of these times, guests may order from the a la carte menu. We do say that we eat with our eyes, and Publik Markette takes advantage of this. It is as if you want to order everything in sight. A word of caution, you might end up ordering too much since everything is indeed enticing. Pace yourselves, the display won’t go away. You can always come back for more. There was also a good collection of beverages to go with your meals at Publik Markette. They have a selection of fresh juices, which are all-natural produce, straight from the farm to the bottle without added sugar, preservatives and additives. The smoothies are another great choice, packed with nutrients from fresh fruits and vegetables. An excellent range of coffee and tea are also on offer, either hot or cold, by itself or as a base for many other refreshing beverage selections. The mixologists at Publik Markette strive to present an innovative yet informed approached to drinks. Since no two guests have the exact same preference for cocktails, they aim is to achieve that perfectly consistent balance in their drinks. If wine is your poison, their wine list includes a worldwide selection of boutique and established wineries suitable for any wine preference. Taking all of these into consideration, the food and drinks at Publik Markette are top-rate. So whether you are looking for a lunch venue with office mates, a chic uptown restaurant to take a date to or a late night see-and-be-seen hotspot to enjoy drinks, Publik Markette offers something for everyone.


F O O DI E L I S T S

PUBLIK MARKETTE |Grand Indonesia - East Mall, Jalan MH. Thamrin, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2358 1281 www.ismaya.com/publikmarkette |Twitter & Instagram: @PublikMarkette

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F O O DI E L I S T S

05

David Myer’s Adrift

Award-winning chef and restauranteur David Myers unveils his newest creation, Adrift, located at the atrium of Marina Bay Sands.

by JED DOBLE

M

aking his first foray into Singapore, Adrift is Chef David Myers’ personal ode to the vibrant experiences he has encountered in his many travels. It is a bespoke urban kaleidoscope anchored by the places, faces and flavors of his path, from Califorinia to Asia. Pairing a nostalgic spirit with a modern aesthetic, the restaurant is curated to the very last detail by the chef. Chef David describes Adrift as “a colorful food culture mash-up, from both sides of the Pacific, a merging of old and new – small plates you can toast to, and a modern way of dining.” The menu, created by Chef David, together with executive chef Dong Choi, blends playful snacks with raw items, and artisanal toasts with charcoal-grilled treats in a whimsical approach to East-meets-West. Many of the mix-and-match small plates, meant for sharing, feature interpretations of Myers’ most beloved dishes from his travels throughout Asia. Notables include nods to American classics in the form of Caramel Popcorn with Togarashi and a King Crab Melt with Cheese Pimento. More inspirations from Myers’ travels are evident in a section titled “Nomadic” -- remixing cultural traditions in dishes like the Preserved Green Papaya Soup with Maine lobster and sago, Buckwheat Battered Chicken with karashi honey mustard sauce and Foie Gras Banh Mi as well as the grilled Lobster Mochi with Ginger Vinaigrette and Cod with Chili Crab Sauce. A Robata section serves bincho-grilled items, from grilled yuba and miso-cured duck breast to Wagyu beef with Onion Jam. The bar also features an East-meetsWest approach, perfectly mirroring Chef David’s menu. To create the bar launch menu, they have invited bartender extraordinaire Sam Ross, who has made a mark on the New

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York bar scene with his venue Attaboy, as its consultant. The bar menu is highlighted by refreshing aperitifs like the Pimms Imperial with Pimms No 1, lemon, champagne and local market fruits to reinvented classics such as the Singapore Sling, which interprets the famed drink with both aged and dark rum, benedictine, maraschino liqueur, and orange bitters. Playful travel tributes are referenced in a section of fruit cocktails, a nod to Tokyo’s Ginza district of cocktail craft, as well as swizzles, dedicated to the notable Carribean rum drink. The intriguing space is designed by Blueplate Studios, Wilson Associates’ specialty food and beverage design studio, to at once evoke the adventure of travel and the comfort of home. A unique sculptural enclosure that juxtaposes the larger-than-life atrium at Marina Bay Sands, Adrift unfolds from an illuminated wrapped wood and copper facade. Once inside, the expansive 4,000 square foot restaurant houses a collection of spaces that cater to a myriad of dining experiences, from artisanal mixology and delectable snacks at the bar, to a convivial feast of shared plates within the restaurant, and intimate dinners with friends or business partners at the private dining room enclosure. The centerpiece cocktail bar nostalgically recalls vintage Ginza, with diffused lighting, leather bar stools, antiqued metal screens and charred timber accents. In the ethereal garden parlor, timber benches hang from the ceiling, while subtle floral accents allude to the wall of greenery outside. The private dining room houses a surrealist library with quirky objets d’art and vintage photographs that serve as an aperitif to intimate conversations. It’s a collection of treasures that tell the story of cultures past and present, a fitting mirror to the narrative behind Chef David’s cuisine.

DAVID MYERS | Instagram: @gypsychef


F O O DI E L I S T S

ADRIFT | Marina Bay Sands, 10 Bayfront Avenue, Singapore 018956 | T: +65 6688 8868 www.MarinaBaySands.com

| Facebook: Marina Bay Sands | Twitter: @marinabaysands

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06

Afternoon Delights by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY photographes by DENNIE RAMON

The Raffles hotel chain has opened the doors of its Jakarta outpost and brings with it a modern Indonesian art concept to create a relaxed ambience.

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affles is known in the global hospitality industry for its luxury, old world charm and its distinctive personality that is elegantly reflected in each of its properties throughout the world. Carrying on this grand tradition, the Raffles Jakarta opens this month and flaunts a modern look that combines classical luxury and modern contemporary art. One of the outlets that is distinguish a Raffles hotel is the Writers Bar, a bar with literature theme. A revered institution at Raffles Singapore, it is a tribute to the writers who have stayed at the hotel or have written about it. Included in this list are such notable writers such as Ernest Hemingway, Joseph Conrad, and Rudyard Kipling. The Writers Bar at Raffles Jakarta, is reinterpreted as an oasis of art, Indonesian history, literature and artifacts in the modern metropolis of Jakarta. The space is transformed into an elegant refuge from the bustle of the city, featuring interior design concepts that are inspired by the works of Indonesian modern art master, Hendra Gunawan. The venue magically transports you into one of the paintings of the master. The Writers Bar, which is located at the Lobby level, offers Afternoon Tea that is available from 15.00 to 17.30 every day. You can choose from among the sophisticated selection of premium teas from TWG Arts Selection specially created for Raffles Jakarta, along with delectable

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choices of pastries proudly prepared by Executive Pastry Chef Dedy Sutan, for your afternoon tea. The afternoon tea set is a pure indulgence, where your taste buds will be pampered with numerous dishes, which come in variations beyond your imagination. The tea time staples are presented in an ornate black box, designed to remind you of a lavish jewelry box. In its drawers, you will find savory and sweet delights like bruschetta with various toppings, buttery and flaky croissant, and of course warm and soft scones served with fresh cream and homemade preserves. In other drawers, you can will find variations of classic French pastries. The ĂŠclairs are in jewel colors, in unique and satisfying choices of filling, including Pina Colada and Passion Fruit. You should also try their soft and delicious madeleines, and their assortment of jewel macarons that have just the right sweetness, which make them irresistible, definitely a must try for the sweet tooth. For those who prefer Asian flavors to accompany their afternoon tea, they also offer packages featuring local and Oriental dishes. In the future, the Afternoon Tea package will come in different concepts over certain period, to ensure that customers always get new fun experiences. The cozy atmosphere with its transformative interiors, together with the outstanding choice of afternoon delights, make the Writers Bar a truly ideal escape from the hustle and bustle of Jakarta.


F O O DI E L I S T S

RAFFLES JAKARTA | Ciputra World 1, Jalan Prof. Dr. Satrio Kav. 3-5, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2988 0888 www.raffles.com/jakarta

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07

A Culinary Journey by RAFAEL REYES

To celebrate their anniversary this March, Hilton Bandung launches a gastronomic treat, a showcase of top Asian cusines.

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hree guest chefs from their sister hotels in Korea, India and China, will offer a gastronomical experience of authentic dishes from each of their countries for three successive weeks at the Purnawarman Restaurant, Hilton Bandung’s all day dining venue. The Culinary Journey Food Promotion will be from 11 – 29 March 2015, during dinner time. On the menu will be such delicacies as Korean soy-marinated Bulgogi and Kimchi, Indian briyani and prata, also Chinese dragon prawns with Szechuan crab meat sauce, in addition to Purnawarman’s renowned dinner buffet of Peking Duck, fresh sushi and sashimi, La Mien hand pulled noodles and more. 11-15 March 2015 –- Korean Cuisine by Chef Kyonghoon Daniel Chong Korean cuisine is largely based on rice, vegetables and meats. Traditional Korean meals are noted for their Banchan or side dishes that accompany steam-cooked short grain rice meals. Following the success of his 2014 visit, Hilton Bandung welcome back Chef Daniel from Conrad Seoul. Daniel has eight years of culinary experience in China, Indonesia and United States, and of course his hometown of Seoul where Zest, the all-day fine dining restaurant has become a hotspot for attracting gourmets.

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16 – 22 March 2015 – Indian Cuisine by Chef Ashok Eapen Indian cuisine encompasses a wide variety of regional flavors and cuisines. Chef Ashok from Hilton Garden Inn Trivandrum, Kerala in South India is an experienced and well-seasoned chef who brings the taste of India cuisine to Purnawarman Restaurant. Be enthralled by his curries, roti prata and many more. 23-29 March 2015 – Chinese Cuisine by Chef David Du Chinese cuisine is widely seen as representing one of the richest and most diverse culinary heritages in the world. Hilton Bandung brings Chef David from Hilton Shanghai to serve the authentic flavors of Shanghai from his roots, where he began his culinary career. To add to the celebrations, Hilton Bandung has also invited Chef Denny Gunawan on 21 March 2015 for a charity cooking class with the kids and 22 March 2015 for a cooking demo and private dinner. Chef Denny is the runner up of an Indonesian reality television cooking show and was top three finalist of Asian Food Channel’s Amazing Food Challenge in the Philippines. If you are in Bandung and would want to enjoy these stimulating Asian cuisines, drop by for dinner at the Purnawarman Restaurant of the Hilton.


F O O DI E L I S T S

HILTON BANDUNG | Jalan HOS Tjokroaminoto No. 41-43, Bandung | T: +62 22 8606 6888 www3.hilton.com/en/hotels/indonesia/hilton-bandung-BDOHIHI | Facebook: HiltonBandung

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ROASTING AND BREWING WITH PEMINUM KOPI by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Follow us, dear readers, as we pay a visit to the dwelling of Adi “Peminum Kopi” Taroepratjeka and see how he shares his tips and tricks for getting it down and dirty with coffee.

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he first thing that came out in our plan to work this delicate coffee issue was to work with this man of many talents. The public knows him as a local TV show host who travels around in search for our coffee roots, straight to the plantations in rural Indonesia. For those who know Adi Taroepratjeka before that, he’s already the right guy to ask about practically everything. Years of ups and downs, he had gone through as both businessman and consultant. Even as we speak of him now, he’s currently preparing himself to become Coffee

Quality Institute’s certified instructor. It would be an important addition to the Q Grader qualification he already has in his possession. CQI’s instructor degree itself is a prestigious achievement where only a handful of people in the whole world have gone to the length of accomplishing that. He hopes to contribute more for the Indonesian coffee world, so he said, but always in avoidance with the talk about the credit he should receive as an important persona in Indonesian coffee world so far. He’s just naturally humble.

To the envy of many, he has been doing this for quite some time now with her lovely wife who happens to be a certified coffee expert as well, Mia Laksmi. That’s why we decided to pay the couple a visit at his apartment to play some games about coffee, to talk about it, and to enjoy the hallowed drink together. In this feature, Adi will show you how to do home roasting with a wok, a practical comparative study on pseudo espresso versus espresso from the real machine, and lastly – conduct a simplified but proper coffee cupping session!

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C O V E R F E AT U R E HOME ROASTING Home roasting is common for some small coffee merchants or local coffee shops. By that, there are those who roast the beans traditionally at home. We can also do the same at home with only a minimum requirement of tools. Here are the basic rules about roasting at home: 1. Prepare a wok, an ergonomic spatula, a portable stove, and a fan (plus a vacuum cleaner, if needed). Please do the roasting on your backyard or your wife will get mad at you with all the fussy chaffs that dirty the kitchen. 2. Buy some good green beans (unroasted beans). 3. Heat the pan up to 300C. 4. Once ready, reduce the heat and pour all the beans in. 5. Don’t stop whisking until finish. Start to heat up the pan again until the color of the beans start to change into light brown (or light cinnamon color, said Adi) 6. The beans will soon release the heat and give away the popping sound. Reduce the heat and start fanning the beans to separate the chaffs. 7. The roasting process should take between 12 – 20 minutes. Keep on whisking until your desired level of color. 8. Once done, move the beans to another pan or a tampah (bamboo basket to clean the rice) and start shaking it to really release the chaffs thoroughly. 9. Rest for around 24 hours, preferably inside a valved sack. 10. Get ready to grind and brew!

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C O V E R F E AT U R E PSEUDO ESPRESSO VERSUS THE MACHINE In his apartment, our Peminum Kopi has a formidable one group Expobar Office Control espresso machine. So how about if we have our much needed dose of espresso by pulling a shot with a more affordable choice? To challenge the machine, we tested the manual machinations – Presso and Aeropress. At the end of the day, it’s entirely up to us when it comes to our coffee preference, but with this test, we would like to see the edge of each gadget in pulling out a good shot of espresso.

The espresso rule is a complicated one. The requirement starts from preparing finely ground coffee at around 7-10 grams per shot, brewed with a machine that can deliver a pressure of 9 BAR by using 20 – 30ml of 90C – 95C water in 20 – 30 seconds of extraction. The 9 BAR pressure itself can only be achieved with good espresso machine, which means that it’s something incomparable with either Presso or Aeropress. That day we concluded that both Presso and Aeropress may not yet be able to reach the complexity found from an

espresso extracted by a real machine. Presso can quite reach the desirable thickness of a real espresso and Aeropress produced a lighter bodied coffee with plenty of characters that still remained. For functionality, the latter has the upper hand because not only that it’s portable but can also be easily cleaned. For traveling, Adi usually brings his Aeropress, a portable water heater, ceramic blade hand grinder, and a small batch of fresh coffee beans. Now you know what to invest at on an entry level.

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C O V E R F E AT U R E COFFEE CUPPING When it comes to cupping, Adi posed a question for us all. “Are you sure you want to do this at home? Cupping requires good measurement, a lot of resources, and pile of cups that you need to wash afterwards!” his merry laughter quickly echoed around the apartment. Coffee cupping itself is a vital process to direct how a coffee company would like to profile its product for the market. Therefore, the initial roasting process itself has to set the coffee at a “neutral” level where the Master Tasters can determine what to do with the potentials and the weakness alike. At the very least, we can always do the cupping at home with these steps while discounting the prerequisite roasting process. Let’s save that thing for the pros for now because the purpose is the education itself. Who knows that this might inspire you to reach the next level with coffee, right? If you are keen, you can always

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download the score sheet from Specialty Coffee Association of America’s website and study each category by yourself or under the guidance of an expert. Without further a due, here are some basic things that you have to prepare and the steps on how to do it: 1. Prepare some roasted beans, preferably medium to dark roast so that there will be a lot of characters to explore. 2. Prepare five cups of equal size. Measure correctly the amount of coffee needed for each cup with a small electronic scale. The optimum ratio is 8.25 grams of coffee beans per 150 ml of water. 3. Boil the water up to 92C – 95C. Be sure to use mineral water since the minerals will push out the essential oils from the coffee during the brewing and bringing out its potentials. 4. Use the commercial hand coffee grinder for one cup at a time. Don’t grind it too finely. Make it a bit coarse.

5. Before brewing it, sniff the dry aroma and grade the fragrance level. 6. Set the timer for about 4 minutes and brew the coffee in whirling motion so that it will mix well. 7. After four minutes, start to remove the upper crust with a spoon and study the fragrance (sniff deeply the break/wet aroma). 8. Loudly slurp each cup one at a time. Start to score the flavor and the after taste. 9. Wait for a while until the temperature drops to around 67C. 10. At this temperature, it will be easier for our tongue to score the remaining categories such as the acidity, sweetness, body, and balance. Uniformity and clean cup categories are to be filled as well at this point. 11. Lastly, you can always put your own subjective judgment in the Overall category and then add the total score.


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LESSONS IN LIFE FROM A COFFEE GROWER by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON

To honor the utmost effort given by coffee farmers, The Foodie Magazine underwent an excursion to observe the great contributions they have given us. The envoy of the farmers was Yoseph Kusuniyanto, and this is his story.

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h, coffee and lifestyle nowadays. For several years now, we see people in suits dropping by at a famous chain coffee shop for their regular cappuccino takeaway, and in other places there are these hipster teenagers taking their compulsory Instagram shot on their piccolo with hands in frame and some croissant or cakes at a quirkily named, thirdwave coffee bar. Meanwhile at the same time, a fancy espresso machine is extracting some Central American single origin ground coffee and in one corner; a tattooed, slickly haired barista is demonstrating his skills with a 3D latte art. He’s surrounded by curious customers, ladies in particular. It’s fun right? Well, what we don’t

know exactly is that it’s not all about the excitement of modern lifestyle at that end only. For once in a while, let’s see the flow backwards. The roasters like Aroma, for example (that we also feature the owner in this issue), plays an important role in sustaining the lives of the farmers as well as the other end. Some modern roasters even gave more thought on how to cultivate specific standards that suits well with their needs as well as the consumers. They share their knowledge and needs directly with the farmers so, at the same time, they’re working to improve the overall quality of the coffee itself and the welfare of the farmers as well. If it weren’t for these people, our side of the story may not be as colorful as we think.

Whatever came from this part, be it with other plants or coffee, it has a level of complexity that people often taken for granted. Meanwhile, there are heroes who spend long hours on the chilly, lonely part of the mountain to produce the best coffee who are often forgotten. That’s why in this issue, we did some extra miles to see what they do and how their contribution can be remembered in history. A COFFEE STORY TO BEGIN WITH The slopes of highland Lembang, after the rain, was not only enchanting but the mist gave away the mystical aura you rarely see anymore living in big cities nowadays. Although this hilly part of Bandung has now

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been developed into farms, rural housings, and tourist attractions such as ranches, theme parks, waterfalls to as far as Gunung Tangkubanperahu; it’s still charming and whimsical nonetheless. Aside from being known as an area that produces vegetables, berries, milk and livestock; this highland has its share with our coffee world as well. Yoseph Kusuniyanto became our host that day who invited us to his humble abode for a cup of coffee and a story to begin with. Years ago, it was never his intention to live a life as a coffee farmer but Pak Yoseph had been learning for a long time about farming, be it from books or from helping his friends out. “Several years living in Jakarta, working as an manager for a camera company was strenuous and stressful for me. I fell gravely ill and made a decision to withdraw to Bandung. It was a good call, since it took several years for me to recover fully and to finally taste my dream job”, said Pak Yoseph opening up his life story. Now he’s in his late 40s. His hair has gone white, slim, and he has sleepy eyes. However, he appears like a figure that everybody could rely upon. He’s calm and collected as years of hardships have proved his mettle, but also educated with his experience as a farmer and a student of life. Sometimes, he emanates this childish enthusiasm when talking about coffee and showed us his curiosity with each new thing that he just learned from us. We were lucky to bring a respected expert, Adi Taroepratjeka, with us. It’s as if they’re living their own world when talking about it. “In the beginning, it was never easy. I used to become a pitbull breeder, sorting out my friends’ farms, and I even grew my own lily and rose flowers”, he said. The latter at one point brought him immense success when, several times, he supplied the Presidential Palace needs for fresh flowers for events, but he stopped the flower business after reaching one point. Until one time, a group of coffee farmers started to ask him to help and share his

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expertise as a green thumb. His coffee story finally began. A FARMER’S HARDSHIPS Our 4WD Cherokee finally reached the checkpoint at the edge of a pine forest. The stony road proved to be a no challenge for our adept off-road adventurer a.k.a The Foodie Magazine’s proud photographer, Dennie Ramon. But there’s one other obstacle to tackle. Pak Yoseph specifically said that we must respect whatever the guard has to say about letting us in or not. If he says we can go in with the car, then it’s a job well done. Luckily, Pak Yoseph managed to convince the guy and spared us the fuss to walk the dirt path. “Coffee farmers are accepted in this part of the forest because both Perum Perhutani (state owned forestry company) as the landowner welcomes improvements by enthusiastic outsiders like us. Kopassus, who is leasing some part of this land, also appreciates our work with the land and for taking care of the environment”, he said. “Even so, at times we would hear explosions and the soldiers training not far from our plot!” We parked our car at one side of the road to explore the forest and continue to walk all across the coffee plantations owned by Pak Yoseph and his fellow farmers. “Under these thick pine trees, the sunlight can’t get through well to support what the plants need. That’s why it may take longer to produce the coffee cherries”, he explained as we tread through the rough terrain. “The weeds are problematic as well. We had to share our fortune and pay the workers to clear things up for us once in a while. Luckily, I have formulated the effective way to put up with the cost, working hours, and the right timing to do that.” In addition, Pak Yoseph did the extra mile to line up the plants so his plot looks tidier than other farmers. “At most, one worker could only plant around more than a dozen plants per day. Working in the mountain is not easy since the air is thinner here”, he continued.

Pak Yoseph is currently growing Caturra beans from Brazil, an arabica cultivar that has a high yield capability with wonderful flavor profile – naturally sweet with citric characters. We had several cups of it back at his home before and after we visited his farm. Did it the old fashioned tubruk way with sugar. Nice, but it was too dark roasted. “From time to time, I offer thousands of seeds and fertilizer to people around here but they just don’t want it. What happened next was the seedlings went missing. I don’t know who did it but since then, I decided to cultivate the seeds at home first before planting them here”, said Pak Yoseph frowning. On his backyard, he grows the seeds based on the criteria some Jakarta-based roasters asked. He’s now juggling between taking care of his plantations, catering the roaster needs, and his family as well. “Not only that the yielding capability of coffee is for long term, it also provides 90% of my family needs. The rest 10% I got from helping people with their farms. I am grateful for it”, he said. On the horizon, the rainclouds were all that we could see. It started pouring down steadily as we headed back to Pak Yoseph’s house. His wife had prepared warm rice, good salted fish, and some home grown vegetables with delicious sambal for us. It was a lunch like we never had before and much more satisfying that I could ever ask for. Life gives what Pak Yoseph and his family need by living a rural life as a hardworking farmer. Everything may seem simpler up here in the mountain, but it’s not without challenges. For Pak Yoseph, it’s a never ending cycle to learn more and contribute better for the society with quality coffee. Although sometimes he’s too shy to admit that, the farmers wouldn’t fare better without his counsel and hard work. Now, the rest is up to us who can be the ones that support his work and appreciate each cup of coffee that passes us by in our lives. They all came from the tears and blood of the unsung heroes deep in the mountains.


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An Afternoon with Felix by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON

I meet the newly appointed executive chef of The Dharmawangsa Jakarta, chef Felix Budisetiawan for coffee one afternoon for a short chat.

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ith over thirty years of experience in the hospitality industry, with stints in top notch hotel and restaurant chains throughout Indonesia, Muenchen, Los Angeles, Beijing, San Diego, Chicago, Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur, Bali born Felix, has now moved to Jakarta to take over the executive chef position at Jakarta’s grand dame hotel, The Dharmawangsa. As we sit at the beautiful Majapahit Lounge of the hotel, we begin by sampling some of their specialty coffees. Chef Felix asks me what I prefer, so I reply by asking him back, what his preference was. “I drink a lot of coffee. I have one in the morning, one after lunch and maybe one again in the afternoon. My new favorite is the Kopi Aceh Gayo, traditional organic coffee from Aceh Gayo which is harvested from a plantation in the Gayo highlands in Central Aceh, Northern Sumatra.” So I agree with chef, and we order our Aceh Gayo. It has the faint flavor of mild hebs and flowers, medium bodied, low acidity and very smooth. Chef Felix tells me that they serve the Aceh Gayo with a couple of flavors, jahe (ginger), kayu manis (cinnamon) and Pandan, all flavors give the Aceh Gayo a faint flavor, which goes

perfectly well with the low acidity of the coffee. In getting to know chef Felix, it is evident that his passion for his craft has guided every move of his career. He started to help with the family business and carried on as a student at culinary school in Nusa Dua Bali where he learnt several managerial aspects of the culinary industry. After completing his diploma in Culinary and Hospitality School, he started his apprenticeship at a few chain hotels like Hyatt Regency and Starwood Hotels. He then moved to Sheraton, now the Laguna, a Luxury Collection Hotel as Sous Chef at the famous Ikan Restaurant – wherein he was instrumental in garnering the Best Seafood Restaurant Award for the hotel in 1994. He later on became executive sous chef and executive chef for several hotels, including Nikko Bali and Hard Rock Hotel Bali. In 2006, Felix moved to Jakarta executive chef of Sheraton Media, followed by stints at Hotel Nikko Jakarta and JW Marriott Surabaya. In between pauses, I realize that I have finished my Aceh Gayo coffee. Felix then offers me their signature Brawijaya Coffee. It is composed of Kahlua, amaretto, freshly brewed coffee and is topped with whipped

THE DHARMAWANGSA, JAKARTA | Jalan Brawijaya Raya no. 36, Jakarta | T: +62 21 725 8181 www.the-dharmawangsa.com

cream. Sheepishly, I look outside and see that the sun is setting, so I quickly agree. The Brawijaya Coffee is smooth and sweet, almost like an aperitif. I enjoyed it a lot. Felix tells me that he is excited to take on this new challenge of working at The Dharmawangsa. He likes cooking traditional Indonesian dishes he says. Growing up in Bali, Felix specializes in Indonesian style cooking where he uses several ingredients such as lemongrass, ginger flower and local spices to be fused into various cuisines. But with his training in classic French cooking, he sees himself pursuing progressive Indonesian cuisine. “Sriwijaya, our fine-dining restaurant presents the finest progressive Indonesian cuisine. I want to improve on the menu and make the restaurant known as one of the best Indonesian restaurants. We will use French classical techniques to prepare modern Indonesian dishes.” Wish his new position, comes new challenges. But Chef Felix is keen to face these head on and is raring to go and bring the food at The Dharmawangsa to new and greater heights. I am particularly excited to see where he takes the progressive Indonesian cuisine. Let’s all wish Chef Felix good luck on his new role.

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COFFEE WITH SEZAI by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Turkish coffee has a long and established history, with many customs and traditions surrounding it. Who better to share with us these interesting facts, than Chef Sezai Zorlu of Turkuaz.

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cup of coffee has 40 years of goodwill behind it,” Sezai says, as he serves us cups of Turkish coffee he has just prepared for us. “In Turkey, we have a very strong coffee culture. We talk, converse, chat around coffee.” And that is what we start to do, on the warm afternoon we visited Turkuaz. Turkuaz is Sezai’s quaint restaurant, serving traditional Turkish fare. It is known by many and is considered one of the city’s best restaurants. An quick poll I took of some foodie friends always ranks Turkuaz in their top five restaurants in Jakarta. A testament to the chef’s passion and integrity when it comes to his food. Turkish coffee is a unique method of preparing unfiltered coffee. Coffee beans are freshly roasted, finely ground then are heated in a pot with a wooden handle (cezve). The water is hot, but not boiling, the coffee is heated for long enough to dissolve the flavor into the water. Usually sugar is added into the pot, and served in a cup where the grounds are allowed to settle. Since sugar is added as the coffee is boiled, when ordering, they ask how sweet you want your coffee, no sugar, less, medium or sweet. The coffee is then served in a demitasse or small cup, without a handle. Yemen had the earliest evidence of

coffee drinking around the 15th century. By the 1550s, coffee had spread to Cairo and Mecca. After that, it reached the Ottoman Empire in Constantinople. Soon after, traders came and opened a large shop in the district of Tahtakale and began to sell coffee. That became the starting point and today, Turkish Coffee is an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Turkey confirmed by UNESCO. I first met Sezai a few years ago when Turkuaz was new. I was writing a feature about this new restaurant and I was immediately captivated, not just by the food, but by the charm and friendly demeanor of the chef. Since then, the venue has since expanded and now has a baklava bar and a retail space with many Turkish carpets, artifacts and trinkets. With all of these laurels, it seems that Sezai is not going to stop and rest. He tells me of his new project. In the pipeline is Warung Turki in Kemang, which is planned to open in a few months. This new venue is set to take Kemang by storm. The threestorey structure will have an open kitchen, interesting interiors and a rooftop shisha bar. Sezai is obviously excited. “It is a larger venue and will cater to a different market. I am very thrilled to open in Kemang and look forward to welcoming old as well as new clients to Warung Turki.” We go back to our coffee. “Roasting makes the difference really. I used to do it

TURKUAZ | Jalan Gunawarman No.32, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta | T: +62 21 7279 5846 www.turkuazrst.com

for my grandmother. We would buy 100 grams for two days and roast the coffee on a daily basis,” Sezai’s eyes sparkle as he reminisces. He further tells us that when Turkish coffee is served in a household, it is usually accompanied by a similar glass of water. If you take the water first, it is a signal for your hosts that you are hungry, and that they should prepare some food. If you take the coffee first, it means you are not hungry. It is indeed very interesting to hear these customs and traditions. A stark contrast to how we now generally take our coffee, wherein we are normally in a rush or have our lattes, espressos and cappuccinos. “In Turkey, we have four-hour meals. Fast meals are unheard of. There are lots of conversation, catching up and story telling. And coffee is always the last part of the meal,” Sezai explains. And similarly on this day, without much of a meal, we sit and chat and share stories. And without knowing or feeling it, we have been discussing for two hours. Such it is with Sezai and his lovely wife, Yanti. It is such a pleasure to visit and converse with them. As I take my leave, Sezai shares another Turkish coffee saying: “Coffee is the last part of the meal, it is the ribbon to the packaging.” And as I look back, to the many times spent sitting down with friends over coffee, it is indeed true. Very aptly said.

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Coffee Passion by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON

I’ve noticed through the course of preparing for this coffee issue that many of the personalities we met are extremely passionate about their coffee. One such driven person is Franky Angkawijaya of Esperto Caffe and Barista Academy


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was pleasantly surprised when I walked into the basement shop of Esperto Coffee. I thought it was a small space initially, but when my eyes focused on the many espresso machines, I began to think otherwise. I met Franky and he immediately made me feel comfortable with his wide smile and pleasant demeanor. Franky begins by telling me how he started the business. He says that they started in 2004, selling coffee beans and machines. They started sourcing local beans and were importing products from Sydney, Australia. After a year, the sought to be the sole distributor of a coffee machine brand. That worked out well in the beginning until they discovered that the company was selling through another company in Indonesia. So they started to look for another brand. Eventually they became the sole distributor of Conti from Monaco. Frank recalls his first thoughts about starting a barista school. Since they sold the machines, buyers and coffee shops assumed that they would train their baristas. “But the thing is, it is very difficult to define training. Was it training on how to operate the machines or how to make the product (coffee). Those are two totally different things. An analogy I tell my people is when you buy a kitchen appliance, does the manual teach you how to cook? They obviously only teach you how to use the machine,” Franky explains. Franky says that he not only trained them on how to operate the machines, he also taught them everything he knew about coffee, and all for free. “I shared with them everything I knew, all of the experiences I got since 1997, when I started to learn

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about coffee. I learned privately in Sydney, then after that, I learned privately in Italy to improve my barista skills.” Unfortunately, since the training was free, a lot of people took it for granted. They assumed that whenever they needed it, they could just call on Franky to come and train them again. Thinking out loud to himself, Franky said, if he continued to do this, the industry would not grow. For him the reason for growth was not just to earn money, but he genuinely wanted to spread the know-how, so that a lot of people would know the proper way to make coffee. His principle behind this was, when you go out to have a coffee, and you pay for it, you want to get a good cup and to get your money’s worth, value for your money. So he took it upon himself to start the school. “I decided to open the school and to charge students mainly because time is valuable, at it will never come back. Once its gone, its gone. In the beginning, I thought of just opening the school to our clients. But then again, I would be limiting the spread of the knowledge. I wasn’t only going to have coffee at my clients’ places, so we decided to open it to the public.” Franky tells my that many people come to take the courses. “We have people from Aceh all the way to Merauke in Papua. Germans, Dutch, South Africans, Aussies, Kiwis, Singaporeans, Filipinos. We get a lot of South Koreans. They have different reasons for taking the classes: as a hobby, out of curiosity, or because they think it will help them get a job.” Esperto Barista School specializes in Basic Barista Training and also offers opportunities for coffee lovers who are passionate to learn how to make the

perfect cup of coffee. They use only state of the art equipment, and different types of models of coffee machines, so that students will be able to interact with the different machines. They also have all the necessary coffee making accessories, therefore the students will have a full understanding of what to prepare in order to make a perfect cup of coffee. They have a Three Day Regular Course, a One Day Crash Course, and a Two Day Latte Art Course. The Regular Course consists of: A brief history of coffee and how coffee is processed from seed to roasting; Adjustments and maintenance of the grinder
and espresso machine; Grinding, tamping and extracting espresso; Steaming and foaming milk; and Making lattes and cappuccinos. The Crash Course: Adjustments and maintenance of the grinder
and espresso machine; Grinding, tamping and extracting espresso; Steaming and foaming milk; and Making lattes and cappuccinos. While the Latte Art Course has Techniques for free pouring art and Latte art drawings: hearts, rosetta and tulip. “Students are not required to have any previous knowledge and do not have to bring anything. Its like teaching you to ride a bicycle in a very short time. Once you know it, you will have it with you.” As we end our chat, and after a number of cups of coffee, I take a brief moment to reflect on what Franky has just shared with me. As a major proponent of barista education, I am awestruck by how driven and passionate he is with his craft and his desire to spread his coffee know-how. At the same time, I gain a larger respect for the baristas who make my coffee. To Franky, I raise my cup in tribute.


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ESPERTO BARISTA COURSE | Wisma Geha, Basement, Jalan Timor no. 25, Jakarta |T: +62 21 532 5953 E: info@hcfindonesia.com | Twitter: @EspertoBarista

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Meeting Daniel by JED DOBLE photographs by NADIA HUDYANA

I rarely get star struck, but when I sat down to chat with Chef Daniel Boulud, I felt my heart race. But his calm and friendly demeanor relaxed me and our conversation flowed. I still couldn’t believe that I was chatting with one of the most famous chefs in the world.


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lthough born and raised in Lyon, France, Chef Daniel calls New York home and is considered one of America’s leading chefs. He is Chef-Owner of several award-winning restaurants in New York and around the world. He has nine restaurants in the Big Apple, with his eponymous DANIEL in the heart of Manhattan’s Upper East Side as his crown jewel. Here he serves contemporary French cuisine inspired by the seasons and is one of only a few Manhattan restaurants to have a coveted two-Michelin star rating. He also has restaurants in Boston, Washington, D.C., Palm Beach, Miami and Las Vegas, with foreign outposts in Montreal, Toronto, London and Singapore. Closest to us is Chef Daniel’s db Bistro Modern at the Marina Bay Sands Resort & Casino. It is located at Galleria level of the Shoppes, MBS’ luxury retail and dining venue, just across from the Sands Theatre. The restaurants serves an interesting mix of traditional French bistro food together with modern American flavors. Chef Daniel’s world renowned collection of signature burgers are a highlight here too. During my visit to Singapore, we saw Chef Daniel in action, together with junior chef, Revo. Revo was shooting videos with Chef Daniel. First Revo prepared ayam pop for Chef Daniel, then the famous chef reciprocated by preparing his own chicken dish, a coq au vin. Then Chef Daniel also prepared two more dishes. It was amazing watching how he cooked in the kitchen, and I was there, as if on front row seats. When the video shooting was over, I had my one on one time with the famed chef. Chef Daniel starts our conversation with his recounting a trip to Bali he had in 1984. He spent 10 days there and says that it was a highlight of his life at the time. He remembers that he would only spend around $20 a day, including hotel, food and drink. He remembers visiting Ubud and Tanah Lot temple and sampled many delicious dishes. He remembers walking through rice paddies into remote villages and meeting ladies cooking satay. He fondly recalls the warm hospitality he experienced while he was there. Chef Daniel’s restaurants feed so many

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people daily, but I was curious on what he liked to eat. He says that it all depends on where he is and what the occasion is. “I like to eat seasonal, whatever is best in season. I also like to eat healthy. Sometimes spicy, sometimes mild and clean and simple. When I cook at home, I like to do simple dishes, maybe a one pot meal, where all the flavors are mixed together and really compose the strengths of the dish. Maybe a braise, a roast or a fish cooked on the bone. Hearty, homey, healthy. When I cook, it is not to impress anybody but to really nourish the soul of everyone at the table.” When he is in New York and not traveling, Chef Daniel says that he tries his best to eat healthy. Breakfast would definitely have yogurt, granola and fresh fruits. But on Sunday, he says he splurges a little, it’s his day off anyways. Maybe eggs with a little bit of caviar or truffle, or some good champagne, Dom Pérignon on ice. But lunch would be a very good salad, composed with some protein, and lots of vegetables or a great hearty soup. He says that his food guilty pleasure would definitely be the caviar, white and black truffles and sea urchin. Luckily he is in the food business and he has access to these fine ingredients. The last being his ultimate favorite. “I can live on sea urchin. I love the differences of the different kinds of sea urchin, from Galicia in Spain, to the Mediterranean, to Brittany, to Maine or California or Hokkaido. All the different sea urchin, they are the same creature but different in texture and taste.“ Chef Daniel further reveals that his other guilty pleasures are oysters and caviar, so decadent, and truly guilty. Chef Daniel started cooking at a very young age, I dare say, it was such a different time then. I asked him what he thought was the difference between cooking then and cooking now. In reply, he says that there is not much difference. “French cuisine then was driven by passion and creativity, very same as it is now. There is not much difference. Although, the exposure to food has grown. We now know Asian food, American and South American food, and this knowledge influences how chefs cook. Cuisines from Mexico, Peru and Brazil have been influencing chefs all around the world

now. It is this knowledge of other cuisines that is pushing chefs to be more creative.” Chef Daniel has been to Singapore many times now, so I ask him where he goes to eat when he is here. “Usually in Singapore, I trust the locals to take me out. I go to the Old Airport Road food court, I believe the best remaining food artisans are there because everyone is changing with the times. Friends have taken me there, I go for roti, chicken rice and nasi goreng. I have also been to Katong for laksa, Sin Huat Seafood and New Ubin Seafood, I have been. I also like the lobster porridge at Wan He Lou and the frogs legs porridge from Sinma. Chef Daniel’s foodie list is quite impressive, you know that he is a genuine foodie at heart. The conversation flowed freely and only realized that we had gone over time. I ask Chef Daniel last question: what do you look for when choosing chefs. Chef Daniel replies: “I think someone who is stable and committed. Someone who has the passion but also has the understanding of cooking. There are many great chefs, who are not necessarily good in business. I think it is important to be multi talented. Besides being a great chef and a great cook, you have to be a good businessman, you have to know how to hire people. A young chef has to choose a good mentor, not only to be well trained in the art of cooking, but also supported in the work all his life.” Chef Daniel continues: “I am very impressed by Revo, because even at 12 years old, he seems to be observing well, he seems to be listening well, he is focused with his cooking. So there is a very long growth potential for him, his future seems bright. But you know, I chose cooking not because I wanted to become a celebrity, its because I wanted to be a chef, and that is what is important. If you chase celebrity, it might be more deceiving that if you chase to become a good chef.” Such important words of wisdom from a truly great chef. As we part, Chef Daniel invites me to visit him in New York and sample the food at DANIEL. I tell him that with an invitation like that, a trip to the Big Apple must definitely be scheduled soon. I shall keep you all posted.

DANIEL BOULUD | www.danielboulud.com | Twitter & Instagram: @danielboulud


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DB BISTRO MODERN SINGAPORE | The Shoppes at Marina Bay, Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Avenue, Singapore T: +65 6688 8525 | Instagram: @dbbistrosing

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GATEAU BASQUE WITH BRANDIED CHERRIES, VANILLA CREME ANGLAISE by CHEF DANIEL BOULUD Serves 1 tart

INGREDIENTS:

Dough 130 gr Butter, room temperature 205 gr Sugar 2 pcs Egg yolk 1 pc Egg 1/4 tsp Lemon oil 10 gr Baking powder 3/4 tsp Salt 210 gr Flour 60 gr Almond flour 1 pc Egg 1 tbsp Milk Pastry Cream 1 pc 124 gr 6 pcs 1 pc 30 gr 38 gr 540 ml 1 tbsp

Vanilla bean Sugar Egg yolk Egg Flour Cornstarch Milk Kirsch

Crème Chantilly 240 gr 45 ml 24 gr

Crème fraiche Heavy cream Sugar

Crème anglaise Brandied cherries

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STEPS

• Prepare the dough in a mixer with paddle attachment, cream together butter and sugar until pale. Add in the egg yolk, egg and lemon oil until all incorporated. • In a separate bowl, whisk together baking powder, salt, flour. Slowly add into the liquid mixture. Add in almond flour and mix until incorporated. • Remove the dough and form into two flat disks. • Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours. • For the pastry cream, whisk together sugar, egg yolks and egg. Gradually whisk in the flour and cornstarch. Set aside. • Slice vanilla bean in half and scrape out the seeds boil it together with the milk in a saucepan. • Temper the milk into the egg mixture, a little at a time while whisking continuously. Whisk until all mixture combined and pour back into the saucepan. • Over a low heat, cook the mixture while whisking continuously until thickened (about 3-4 minutes). • Remove from the heat immediately and pour into a bowl. Stir in the kirsch. • Cover with plastic film pressed against the surface of the cream. Refrigerate.

• Preheat the oven to 175C. Roll out the dough to 0.5cm thickness and line the 24 cm tart tin with it. • Fill the tart with pastry cream and smoothen the top. • Cover the top with the second dough that has been rolled out into 0.5cm thickness as well. Seal the edges with rolling pin and trim the excess away. • Combine the egg and milk for egg wash and brush the top of the tart with it. Then create a decorative pattern with a fork. • Bake for 35 minutes or until golden brown. Let it cool. • For crème chantilly, whisk all ingredients in a mixer until hard peak. Keep chilled. • Serve Gateau Basque at room temperature with crème anglaise, brandied cherries and crème chantilly. Photo by: THOMAS SCHAUER Reprinted with permission: MY BEST DANIEL BOULUD ALAIN DUCASSE PUBLISHING


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Coffee Hopping in Tokyo by FELLEXANDRO RUBY

An avowed foodie and coffee addict and owner of the famous Wanderbites blog, Fellexandro Ruby shares with us his favorite coffee haunts in Tokyo.

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t is easy to get lost in Tokyo’s small alleyways and side streets. But a trip down Tokyo’s streets will be more enjoyable with a visit some of the city’s best coffee shops. The city has an increasing number of excellent independent specialty shops, giving recognition to coffee as a craft worth celebrating. This list is by no means substantive, but is my way of highlighting shops that I enjoyed. SARUGAKU COFFEE DAIKANYAMA : TOKYO’S BEST KEPT SECRET “If you can get mad before the word genius, then maybe you can make genius appear.” That line that I stole from John Mayer is the first thing that comes into my mind even before writing this post. I mean, who would be that mad to open a coffee shop in a dimly lit basement five meters below the street with no signage at all? To serve only three different types of the same coffee at a price higher than most specialty coffee shops? And the maddest thing of all, is to run it by himself? He is either mad or a pure genius. Voted as the best coffee shop by the influential Japanese food review site Tabelog, Sarugaku remain intact with its idealism. It cares very little about directing people to them, but prefers to attract customers by the power of mystery. If you’re just passing by the street you wouldn’t know there’s a coffee shop down that tiny basement alley. If any, their neighbor Caffe Foglio is more likely to be the place you end up in. But don’t get fooled, walk straight instead through the corridor. Beyond that wooden door is a Narnia of its own. Low ceilings made of used wooden planks, a second-hand ladder, giant speakers playing jazz, and tons of old CDs set the tone for Sarugaku’s unusual ambience. The tables are set in a way that repulse loud conversations. Each of them is almost like a private confession room. Purposefully built so that you’ll spend more time appreciating either the person that you are with or the cup of coffee that’s sitting in front of you. The weirdness doesn’t stop there. Here the coffee comes only drip-style with three different variety: regular, bitter or strong, all priced at 600 Yen. It is going to take a

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W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT long while for him to prepare the coffee, so carry an extra dose of patience here. It is worth the wait though. The coffee is very enjoyable, easily pleasing and well balanced. The kind that you’d drink sip by sip with an interval of short and long pause in between, letting the taste warm down your palate. Other than the coffee though, their milk (latte) is one that I’d actually highlight for two reasons. First, is the unique inexplicable taste. Second is the idea of serving it in a bowl. It requires you to naturally hold it with both hands and in such autumn weather, a hand-warming cup of latte adds a lot to the experience. I recommend this and the cheesecake as well along with the coffee. Now that you’ve heard what I want to say, what’s your vote? I’m leaning towards John. This guy who runs Sarugaku Coffee is indeed a genius in one way or another, although on face value the masses would consider him mad. SARUGAKU COFFEE DAIKANYAMA English: B1F Daikanyama Post Office Bldg, 23-3 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Japanese: 渋谷区猿楽町 23-3 鳥居ビルB-1 Shibuya, 東京都 Closest metro station: Daikanyama Opening Hours: Daily 1PM – 7PM

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W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT STREAMER COFFEE COMPANY When Sprudge (sprudge.com – Coffee News and Culture) tells you to visit Streamer Coffee Company, you listen. It is a no brainer. Not only that it is a home for Hiroshi Sawada, the 2008 winner of Free Pour Latte Art World Championships, it is also built on stacks of container construction. Added to that, the fact that they quickly grew to be one of Tokyo Best Coffee shops. You will regret not visiting them. Unlike the spacious Shibuya branch, this Shinjuku outlet is built on vertical capacity. The first floor is where they brew the coffee. The second and the third floor is where you can enjoy your coffee on bar tables and large leather sofas with hip hop music playing on the background. It is minimalistically comfortable, quiet and makes a great Instagram spot with all the natural light coming in from the wall size windows. A visit to Streamer Coffee is not complete without getting one of their famous lattes. If you’re lucky you might have Hiroshi-san make his signature triple rosetta for you. I tried their seasonal Big Apple latte which is available only during Fall / Autumn. The beautiful latte art indicates the well prepared espresso and milk. Tiny bubbles with thick and rich steam. A dedication that might pass down from the owner himself or maybe it just runs in most Japanese blood. It still amazes me, the amount of dedication the Japanese put on a single subject that they are passionate about. In the case of Streamer Coffee, they go the length of roasting their own beans on a 40-year-old Probat and deliver it fresh on a daily basis. Not stopping at that, this outlet is also a Barista Pro Shop in collaboration with Espresso Parts. Enough admiration, now back to the coffee. My latte was perfectly enjoyable on a cold autumn day. The extra hint of apple makes it even more soothing. I spent a good hour here at Streamer and came back for another cup of joe a few days after. When something pulls you to return you know what that means. I guess Streamer Coffee lives up to the hype. To all coffee drinkers, cheers! STREAMER COFFEE HARAJUKU English: 3-28-19, Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo Japanese: 渋谷区神宮前 3-28-19 Monday – Friday 9AM – 6PM Saturday, Sunday, Holiday 12PM – 6PM Phone: +81.3.5772.6633

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ChameleonsEye /Shutterstock


Melbourne Coffee Walking Tour by JED DOBLE

I seriously believe that the eyes are the windows to the soul. When I met Maria Paoli, you could definitely see in her eyes, the passion and enthusiasm she had for coffee and for Melbourne.


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hat better way to spend a cloudy Saturday morning than by taking a coffee walking tour. On a recent trip to Melbourne, a 2-hour tour was organized for us with Maria Paoli, a 17 year veteran of the hospitality and tourism industry. She has spent this time in managing cafes, working with coffee roasters and establishing Nationally Accredited Training Tools. Maria is an accredited Trainer and Coffee Judge, specializing in coffee, events and tourism. She was actively involved with the Australian Specialty Coffee Association (AASCA) and in 2005 organized and hosted the Victorian Barista Championships and continues to be a strong advocate and ambassador for the Specialty Coffee Association. Maria told us that the Melbourne Historical Coffee Trek started in 2004 to showcase the city’s internationally recognized café culture. She has been active in training, supporting and encouraging young baristas and consulting café owners. She tells us: “In my determination to improve Melbourne’s café standards, I embarked on a mission to become an active reviewer, where I  contributed to industry magazines, newspapers and coffee guides.”  With all these coffee, I ask Maria how she fell in love with coffee. “I was born with a coffee palate,” Maria says. “From an early age I would go to the market with my grandad who would buy freshly roasted coffee and I could always smell the aromas through the house when it was brewed in the caffetiera (stove top espresso maker). Coffee is a link to my heritage, tradition and history.” Growing up in this coffee

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W E N T T H E R E AT E T H AT household would certainly pre-dispose her to coffee. Maria continues and says that there was never a time in her life where she didn’t like coffee. “I think I tried to live without coffee when I was a uni student, what a huge mistake that was!” But liking and loving coffee are one thing, working with coffee and championing it is another. So I ask Maria what really lead her to focus her life and work on coffee. “There are many events that lead me to love specialty coffee and respect the crop to bean to cup included my love for the people of the land.” “She has been fortunate to travel origin where coffee is grown: I have been to Kenya, Vanuatu, Queensland and parts of the Caribbean. I have met the farmers from Brazil, Colombia, Vietnam and understand the hardship, the work and sacrifice that goes into every cup. This made me respect coffee,” Maria shares. Maria says that as a trainer, she has set up some of the first training tools for Melbourne and worked with the long term unemployed, kids with disabilities and students from broken backgrounds. “Every time I would work with them on a coffee machine, empower them with knowledge and build their practical skills, they have felt valued. My love for coffee grew yet again as it put a smile on someone else’s face,” she reveals. Her third revelation was when she realised how much chemistry and science was associated in coffee roasting, coffee harvesting and coffee brewing. “I was a child who loved science, experiments, looking under a microscope and chemistry, and I fell into a world of CO1, CO2, osmosis, hybrids and pyrolysis.” As we make our way through the streets and laneways of Melbourne, I cannot help but be immensely impressed by Maria’s passion for the one true love. During a lull in the tour, I quickly ask her to reveal her top five coffee shops in the coffee capital. She whispers that we have visited two of her favorites that day, League of Honest Coffee on Exploration Lane and Krimper on Guilford Lane. Unfortunately, her number one is only open on weekdays. So after two cups and two kilometers of walking, we end our tour. I am thoroughly pumped, not only by the caffeine but by the spirit and passion of this lovely lady called Maria.

MARIA’S TOP PICKS AXIL COFFEE 322 Burwood Road, Hawthorn INDUSTRY BEAN 62 Rose Street, Fitzroy

KRIMPER 20 Guilford Lane, Melbourne LEAGUE OF HONEST COFFEE Exploration Lane, Melbourne TOP PADDOCK 658 Church Street, Richmond

MARIA PAOLI | EVOLVING SUCCESS | www.melbournecoffeetours.com.au | www.evolvingsuccess.com.au

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T H E FI N E R T H I N G S

IndoCafÊ – The White House by RICHMOND BLANDO

A unique collaboration between a restaurant and an Arts & Cultural Centre, INDOCAFE - the white house raises the bar in cultural and culinary heritage through its celebration of modern Straits-Peranakan cuisine, coffee appreciation and cultural performing arts


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f you are traveling to Singapore and find yourself asking the question of where you can have a really unique experience and at the same time indulge in the finer tastes of Indo-Peranakan cuisine, INDOCAFE – the white house comes very highly recommended. There are Portuguese, Dutch, British, Malay, Indonesian and Chinese influences that blend into this modern Peranakan cuisine along with that, they also have a venue for fine coffee appreciation and cultural performing arts. Hence, giving a true Straits-Peranakan collection, which brims with flavors and culture. The history of Peranakan can be traced back four centuries ago when Princess Hang Li Po from Ming Dynasty China travelled to Malaysia, marrying then the sultan of Malacca. Since then, many more Chinese immigrants came afterwards into Indonesia

and Malaysia, and they were adopted into the local culture and new blends of family tradition were born. The children that came forth were since known as Babas (for boys) and Nyonyas (for girls). In this warm unity of two cultures, Peranakan food was also born to suit the palates of both cultures. In Singapore and Malacca, the distinct style of Peranakan food is strongly influenced by our close proximity to Indonesia. As I entered their opulent dining room, the ambience was warm, replete with charming hardwood furniture. It was like visiting a home, more than restaurant. Fine furniture and cutlery accentuated with rich Peranakan motifs make every dining experience a memorable one. Cooking to satisfy two unique and distinct cultures is an art, Nyonya cooking demands a mother’s love in efforts and constant tweaking of each ingredient’s proportion to ensure the perfect taste.

INDOCAFÉ – THE WHITE HOUSE | 35 Scotts Road, Singapore 228227 | T: +65 6733 2656 E: enquiry@thehouseofindocafe.com | 12pm – 3pm / 6pm – 10.30pm Daily

At INDOCAFE - the white house, this spirit is endured through time as we continually evolve and tweak the recipes in consideration for our current generation and your palate. Traditional Peranakan cuisine has this undeniable quality of approachability. It was not intimidating nor was it shy in proclaiming that the flavors were truly Peranakan. Nyonya cooking revolves among many ingredient types and coconut milk is one that cannot be missed. Try their classic Penang Otah, Pulot Hitam and Home Recipe Bubur Cha Cha! ARTS & CULTURAL CENTRE The Arts and Cultural Centre serves as a casual café, coffee appreciation boutique and a hub of activities. Insides this sprawling hall, guests and visitors can browse through Peranakan antique collections, conduct media conferences, workshops and private events.

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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D

The Jakarta Sling by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY photographs by DENNIE RAMON

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hat comes to mind when you hear the name Singapore Sling? For those who know, you will most likely picture the bright, fun and tropical cocktail famous around the city-state it is named for. This iconic cocktail celebrates its 100 year anniversary as a signature drink of the Raffles Singapore. It was first invented in 1915 by head bartender Ngiam Tong Boon at The Long Bar and has since been enjoyed by countless personalities and celebrities around the world. A sling was originally an American drink, typically composed of a spirit and water, sweetened then flavored. Originally, the drink was called the gin sling, but was later called the Singapore Sling. It is said that of the many recipes published of the Singapore Sling, no two recipes are alike. All recipes calling themselves ‘original’. Recipes published in articles about Raffles Singapore before the 1970s are significantly different from current recipes, and Singapore Slings drunk elsewhere in Singapore differ from the recipe used at the Raffles. It is THE quintessential Raffles experience. In the hotel’s museum is displayed a safe where Mr. Ngiam locked away his secret recipes, alongside a Singapore Sling recipe obtained by a guest from a waiter and scribbled on the back of a bar chit dated 1936. And so, as the latest outpost of the Raffles Hotel chain, the Raffles Jakarta, has introduced its own version of the sling, aptly called the Jakarta Sling. One balmy afternoon, we had the chance to sit and chat with Yusmaini Jasni, Food & Beverage director of the Raffles Jakarta as he introduced their newest sling. Yusmaini, plays an instrumental role in driving the success of Raffles Jakarta’s dining venues including Arts Café, The Writers Bar and Navina. Yusmaini has gained broad and extensive food & beverage experience in both operations and sales functions across Asia and Middle East. He joined the company in 2005 in the capacity of Sales & Marketing Manager, Food & Beverage at Raffles The Plaza (now Fairmont Singapore). He then progressed to his most recent position as Food & Beverage Manager, Makkah Clock Royal Tower, a Fairmont Hotel, where he was part of the pre-opening team and led the operation team of Saudi Arabia’s largest F&B division which spanned 10 restaurants and bars. Now in JRaffles Jakarta, Yusmani had created the

The hot tropical weather of Jakarta calls for a refreshing drink that quickly quenches your thirst and brightens your mood. Raffles Jakarta has just the right thing for you.

newest Raffles Sling. “The cocktail is given a twist with North Sumatran passion fruit and the exotic star anise. This unique spice, has been valued since the 16th century spice trade for its culinary and medicinal properties,” says Yusmani. The drink is light and refreshing, perfect for a late afternoon chat with friends, or after a long day at the office. The new Raffles Jakarta’s Writers Bar is the perfect venue to have one, blending old-world charm and modern contemporary art. A perfect venue to escape the city’s worries and drown your worries, in good drink. “The Jakarta Sling’s alluring orange color entices one to contemplate on its beautiful blend of flavors and notes: passion fruit is fused with Grenadine syrup, apple sour liqueur, sweet vermouth, dry gin, soda water and star anise,” continues

RAFFLES JAKARTA | Ciputra World 1, Jalan Prof. Dr. Satrio Kav. 3-5, Jakarta | T: +62 21 2988 0888 www.raffles.com/jakarta

Yusmani. The unique sensation resulting from the combination of the ingredients will surprise you by dispersing a sweet aroma that masks the sharpness of the gin. The sweet vermouth and star anise blend plays its role to round up the flavor and leave a deep, pleasant sensation in your mouth. The drink is garnished with dehydrated Malang apple chips that adds a crisp and tang to the whole concoction. With such wonderful sensory effects, the Jakarta Sling will definitely become a new favorite cocktail of choice to be enjoyed any time. We try to ask Yusmani more about the recipe of the Jakarta Sling, he stops us and says that: “In true Raffles tradition the Jakarta Sling recipe, of course, remains a well-kept secret.” With or without the recipe, we definitely enjoyed the Jakarta Sling and will definitely come back for more.

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T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D

PICK ME UP THEN F*** ME UP by ADITHYA PRATAMA

At the Margaret River Gourmet Escape, we met Andrew McIntyre whose cocktail creation would do more than just to pick you up.

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t was barely past eleven o’clock when we got to the Leeuwin Estate for the Margaret River Gourmet Escape and stumbled upon the bright orange booth of Silvana Coffee –the award-winning coffee roaster from Western Australia, and met Andrew McIntyre who offered a proper pick-me-up from his booth. Andrew crafted two cocktails specifically tailored for the brand using their finest Arabica coffee that mesmerized the festival guests throughout the weekend. Prior to finishing his high school, Andrew went for a job in a local café where he fell in love with everything hospitality from the food, beverages all the way to the alcohol. It was not until landing a bartender position at Luxe bar in Perth where Andrew finally fell in love with the art of cocktail making. “There’s so much more to cocktails than mere alcohol,” explained Andrew while preparing couple of The Espresso Highballs; “I fell in love with its history, the making process all the way into the chats that happened nightly with the patrons. That is what makes cocktail such an interesting subject for me to focus on.” When not serving for events, Andrew manages the recently opened Lot20; a casual dining establishment with an industrial setting bar offering all-day dining from breakfast to supper with ingredients coming solely from Western Australia, at the heart of Perth’s cultural center in Northbridge and another bar in Mount Lawley called Five Bar where many of the drink recipes and inspirations came from. For him, inspirations came simply from eating, drinking and experiencing different things –the broader your palate, the greater the end result, as well as going out and looking at what are the trends like. Chef’s creations can also affect Andrew’s opus when it comes to cocktails. “I do take notes from great chefs like Heston Blumenthal or George Calombaris from the things that they are doing, often enough it will give you general ideas about what you can eventually do when it comes to combining new eccentric flavors into a drink.” The Espresso Highball that were served during Margaret River Gourmet Escape were Andrew’s personal take on the

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classic Espresso Martini that was originally found in London by Dick Bradsell whose work in inventing cocktails have gotten acknowledgements from many. With similar ingredients, Andrew introduced his twist in this classic cocktail that were described by Bradsell as a drink that would “pick you up then f*** you up” To make the highball, Andrew opted for a lighter and more fragrant taste of a cold brew espresso to complement the chocolate syrup, coffee liquor and the nuttiness from Frangelico in the drink. He then topped it with Chinotto –an Italian bittersweet citrus flavored soda, Panela foam of coconut blossom sugar with vanilla and coffee salt sprinkle to give the final touch of the drink. The result is a sweet sip of cocktail with strong bitter punch of the coffee, mild acidity from the Chinotto and faint saltiness from the sprinkle on top of

the foam –a cocktail perfect for breakfast, as we’d like to say! “What can I say? I like to make things simple when it comes to cocktails!” exclaimed Andrew; “but adding in those flavor complexity into the drink requires some trial and error for me behind Lot20’s bar.” According to Andrew, a bartender would have experienced two memorable drinks in their career that drove them to learn more about cocktails. One is a Negroni where the challenging flavor of Campari always gives a bartender’s skill a test on balancing it with the gin and vermouth. Second is an Old-Fashioned where its craft ritual can be a challenge for any bartender. This is why Andrew will never forget the Negroni he had at Hugos Bar in Sydney and his days at Luxe bar where he learned how to make Old Fashioned for the first time in his career.


T R I E D A N D TI P SI E D

LOT TWENTY | 198-206 William Street, Perth, WA | T: +62 8 6162 1195 www.lot20.co | Facebook: Lot Twenty | Instagram: @lottwenty

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TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S

MADTARI by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON

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don’t know whether real kopitiam people would agree to include themselves in the same class, but Indonesians have their own version of “street kopitiam” that has been ruling the streets at night for years now. Most of us are even more accustomed to this culture than the original ones based on from what I see throughout the years. In any given city, you will most likely find night time hawkers selling a wide range of comfort food such as instant noodles, instant coffee, hot milk and toast or grilled bananas. Indonesians were probably and finally recognized the term “kopitiam” after the Singaporeans and Malaysians started to introduce their franchised coffee shop in our shopping malls. All this time, we only consider these businesses as “warung kopi”, big or small and modern or not. True kopitiams stemmed their pride from the lifelong legacy of their shops and the classic menu consists of kaya toast, coffee, and soft-boiled eggs. They also have their way on choosing the coffee beans, the

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We always fancy good, affordable comfort food to appease our midnight cravings. While in Bandung, you may not want to skip the chance to indulge yourself at Madtari. What’s the difference than the rest, you might ask? We have all the answers. specific kitchen tools and the know-how to brew the coffee, and even now, there’s a particular way to boil the eggs which can be very different than our street coffee shops. Since people consider warkop as a place to enjoy affordable food and drinks, our Indonesian warung kopi has more variety in the menu and that’s where Madtari, the street coffee shop champion from Bandung, has all the edge needed to be the most famous in Bandung. All my years in Bandung, I used to be a fan of Dwilingga down further on the southern part of the town but I had always been intrigued with how Madtari can achieve full house every single day, weekdays and weekends. They have been moving around for several times now but their followers will always find a way to reach them. Now, they got themselves a nice permanent place, open for 24 hours, and have opened up other outlets around Bandung as well. Their key to success is at how bold they

are in adding “excessive” amount of toppings into their food at no additional cost! Try to order their instant noodles, toast, or grilled banana, and be ready to see a pile of grated cheese on top of it. First timers would say something like, “Where in the world is my Indomie goreng?” and yes, what you’re looking for is actually underneath the cheese. Don’t bother to ask for less because their kitchen is set to give more. That’s just hilarious! So, there’s no need to argue any longer about this. The true quality of the food may vary and some may even make their toast better or their noodles al dente, but many cannot just pass up the opportunity to indulge themselves with that amount of cheese, chocolate sprinkles, evaporated milk, and even the corned beef. Doing this and competing at that price may seem suicidal but Madtari has its own way to take over the competition and declare itself as the champion of Bandung.


TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S

OPENING HOURS: Daily, 24 hours SPEND: IDR 5,000 – IDR 30,000 / person

CAFE MADTARI | Jalan Rangga Gading no. 12, Bandung

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TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S

NASI UDUK GONDANGDIA by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON

While heading to Kebon Kacang in Tanah Abang may be tricky for your nasi uduk fix, the Cikini area on the other side of Jalan Thamrin maybe a good option too. The Cikini champion is clearly Nasi Uduk Gondangdia.

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ith so many combinations of rice dishes in Indonesia and yet the oldie but goodie nasi uduk is always good for any occasion. From breakfast to dinner, nasi uduk is the staple choice for Jakartans and nothing can beat how the fragrant rice with delicate coconut milk taste could mix so well together with its sidekicks. The Cikini area is easy to reach, nearby the city center, and a rather traffic-friendly neighborhood. From street food, coffee shop, fast food, fine-dining to iconic restaurants, there are plenty of choices for anyone here. When it comes to nasi uduk, there are two (competing) nasi uduk eateries in the neighborhood, separated only by

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several blocks. They are the Nasi Uduk Pasar Hias Rias and Nasi Uduk Gondangdia. When talking about the latter, Nasi Uduk Gondangdia clearly has the upper hand when it comes to space and ambiance, while taste can become subjective in this matter. It is located a bit deep inside the neighborhood but yet it attracts a lot of visitors. Inside, they provide anything that you wish to mix and match with your nasi uduk – from fried chicken, grilled chicken, empal (fried, sweet and spiced beef), catfish, cuttlefish, intestines or gizzard satays, and the dynamic duo of tempe and tahu. While waiting for them to preparing your order, slide a bit to the bar and have your customized lalapan or raw vegetables

that will go with the sambal. Clearly, the sayur asem is not to be missed as well here. Top that also with the self-service, free-flow hot tea anytime or the refreshing orange juice that will go well with any Indonesian fare. Despite frequented by so many during rush hours and the rather extreme noisiness thanks to the live music, the service is nevertheless quick and precise to compensate for the hectic ambiance. Even after the customers have left the table, the waiters are quick to reset the place settings and made it neat in a matter of seconds. It’s basically more than your usual street food, right? So, best to give it a try to see which nasi uduk is your favorite in Jakarta.


TA K I N G I T TO T H E S T R E E T S

OPENING HOURS: Daily, 24 hours SPEND: IDR 5,000 – IDR 30,000 / person

NASI UDUK GONDANGDIA | Jalan Cikini IV no. 8A, Jakarta | T: +62 21 3193 5131

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I CO N I C

KOPI ES TAK KIE by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON

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et’s say you are keen, do take some time off to fulfill your weekend foodie agenda and head to Gang Gloria – the right place to get lost with timeless, classic comfort food. As many would prefer to have their coffee after meals, kindly allow me to mention some options for you to try before heading to Kopi Es Tak Kie. From the alley’s famous curry noodles, chicken rice, nasi tim and gado-gado, some people might up the ante with the exotics from sekba, bektim, and even pi oh or the soft shell turtle soup. Gang Gloria has it all. The alley itself is the definition of iconic, but our renowned coffee shop Tak Kie becomes the one that glues everybody together. For first timers, there’s no need to worry about the direction trivialities. You just simply need to turn left and head inside a narrow street right before the red light to Kota Tua, if you are coming from the south. Grab the parking ticket, look for a spot, and tread a short walk leading to Toko Kawi. Head right and it’s all downhill from there. If you are unsure though, don’t hesitate to ask the locals. “Teck Kie”, they said, correcting they way I pronounce “Tak Kie” when I asked them where. “It’s further down that way and look to your left”, said a guy. As we head further in, the smell of street food welcomed us. The fruit sellers were sitting around, waiting for the haggling aunties to come. People circled their favorite sekba pushcarts, steamy as the seller opened the lid. Then, an elderly grandpa offered me for a takeaway for his nasi

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It would not be wise to disregard the contribution of Kopi Es Tak Kie as one of Jakarta’s oldest coffee shops. Under the duress of dark clouds and rainy season, we paved our way to pay homage to this mighty legend that will quite soon reach a century old.

campur. I politely declined just as we were about to enter Kopi Es Tak Kie. Finally we found the place. At a glance, it felt as if nothing has changed since the day it officially opened in 1929 and it’s quite in contrary to popular belief that Tak Kie opened their doors here two years earlier. “Our grandpa did buy this establishment in 1927, but father started his beverage business on the streets first before moving here in 1929”, said Pak Akwang, one of the third generation siblings who are running the show now. While history etched the name Kopi Es Tak Kie as a reputable coffee shop, the coffee itself was never the story to begin with. Initially, the founder of Tak Kie, Mr Liong Tjoen, only served tea to his customers. Coffee was later added in the menu based on the patrons demand, perhaps unwittingly known in the beginning that it will become the very foundation that opened up a way for Tak Kie to make a name for itself. “We brew our coffee since early morning and we heat it by demand or simply add the ice cubes with milk”, said Pak Akwang. Curious, we ordered both the extremes for our coffee. The coffee tasted mild and friendly with no trace of dregs left, if not little. Also, the formula that good coffee should be made from freshly brewed beans was somehow not at work here. Kopi Es Tak Kie does their magic with this method, especially with the iced milk coffee. Their own different way is applied also with the food. There’s no kaya toast or the

soft-boiled eggs that Semenanjung people like to have for breakfast. “Our food options evolve based on our customers demand as well. We used to have homemade cookies but people wanted something more filling. One at a time we started to add congee, nasi tim, noodles, and now the nasi campur”, continued Pak Akwang. Despite the competition with the hawkers out front, people were still flocking inside to have their share of nasi campur here. It runs out very fast and even sooner than their closing time at 2 o’clock. Business has always been good since the day Tak Kie opened. “We are all grateful here. The only hiccup we got was when the huge fire several years ago threatened the businesses here but we all survived”, shared Pak Akwang. “Just before he passed away, our father asked us to continue the business and here we are now as siblings, working hand-in-hand to preserve his legacy.” Their whole story is as if a lesson in life. If you give more for the people, then they will be the ones who help you flourish. Kopi Es Tak Kie has become not just as a watering hole for everyone, but as the caring friend for the community. They are the ones that listen to your needs from time to time and in return, always giving their best for everybody. That is the sole reason why Kopi Es Tak Kie has existed for so long and I bet, many years from now. Still curious with what the way people outside pronounce the name of this coffee shop, I decided to ask before we leave. “Oh, it’s ‘Tak Kie’ and not ‘Teck Kie’”, he answered.


I CO N I C

KOPI ES TAK KIE | Jalan Pintu Besar Selatan III no. 4-6, Jakarta

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A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E

TONI WAHID by KYLE GREGORIO photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Having written over 600 entries on his blog, Mr. Tony Wahid enlightens us on how he knows coffee and his experience with it through the years.

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t was back in the year 2007 when Mr. Toni started writing in his blog about coffee. Through his blog, he takes his readers on a journey of his many personal experiences and encounters on everything about coffee. “I didn’t used to like coffee before, but since working in GAP, I’ve been sent to different countries such as America and Canada. I only took it for granted before but one day, I tried Indonesian coffee in San Francisco for the first time. That’s how I fell in love with coffee. I dint even know that the coffee came from Indonesia. When I was about to exit the café, I just had to know where the coffee came from so I returned and asked. It came from Gayo, Sumatra. They call it Sumatra coffee because in America, they known Gayo coffee as Sumatra coffee. With the weather of 15 degrees Celsius and the blue sky, it was like I was slapped and I knew how Indonesian coffee is truly enjoyed” explained Mr. Toni. The year of his great revelation was the year 2000 and that was his first time to drink the best coffee he has ever tasted. Since then, he has been inquiring more about coffee and talking to several friends who have greater

TONI WAHID | www.cikopi.com | Twitter: @toniwahid

knowledge of coffee. Through his writing, he also shares the different opinions of people about coffee. Taste is something that is not debatable, however, coffee is unique and everyone has his or her own opinion about coffee in general. “My coffee is not sweet compared to yours but it is my coffee anyway. That’s the kind of coffee that I want and that’s how coffee teaches people how to be humble. We share together, we love together, and we share the same beverage that has been travelled for hundreds of years in Indonesia” says Mr. Toni. “We have to let go of our egos. In my past travels I have found out that I may dislike a certain kind of coffee that others love. I had an experience where I was in a small coffee establishment, 20 kilos of coffee beans and 5000 cups per day were consumed, the coffee for me was just ordinary but is loved by many anyway, who was I to judge?” adds Mr. Toni. One of the truly rewarding instants of his coffee journey is being able to help get the word out about the coffee farmers and the process that goes on from planting the coffee seeds to you enjoying a cup or

two. With this, the farmers themselves are grateful that Mr. Toni has helped get the word out about their livelihood. At the moment, a lot have easy access to good coffee, compared to 10 years ago. Now, people can talk about the taste of Toraja coffee, the taste of Gayo coffee as well as other exotic coffee from around the world. “I feel that coffee will flourish in the future and more and more people will want to explore and taste coffee and its certain characteristics. The future is bright for coffee in Indonesia,” says Mr. Toni. Mr. Toni is also an avid photographer. He focuses on food photography and street photography. He also encourages you to listen to the playlist in a Starbucks shop. Since he loves to listen to music, he knows the significance of the music that Starbucks plays in their shops and how music and coffee blends very well with each other. Coffee for Mr. Toni never has enough to tell and that the stories are endless. His favorite cup of coffee is still the one that caught his attention and started his passion with coffee; the Gayo coffee from Sumatra.

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A F O O DI E ’ S L I F E

NATHALIA GUNAWAN by ADITHYA PRATAMA

We sat down with the lady behind one of the most talked about coffee shops in Jakarta. Meet Nathalia Gunawan and her obsession of good coffee and pempek.

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ith over 10,000 followers on Instagram, 1/15 Coffee has undoubtedly stole many hearts of the coffee lovers in Jakarta with its highly attractive photographs and great coffee brewed by their talented baristas. Nathalia Gunawan has helmed the business since its humble beginning years ago when they began the trend for craft coffee in Jakarta. “The name itself comes from one of the bases in coffee brewing. 1 to 15 is the perfect ratio of coffee to water to create a perfect cup,” explained Lia about the origin of the café’s name; “so we aimed to achieve consistency in quality in each and every cup or even better, refining it.” Prior to the birth of 1/15 Coffee, Lia assisted her family in an interior contracting business together with her architect sister. Together they found a space in Gandaria that could be turned into a platform to interact with people as well as to use it as their office space. The concept were then created and they designed the place specifically to house a café and work space in the same building. “We wanted to shift our office here as well, so we designed the place to be as comfortable enough for us to stay here all day. We then found a passionate coffee roaster and met a few baristas –including

our champion Doddy Samsura, and together we gave birth to 1/15” Surrounded by coffee everyday, Lia developed a certain taste and preference for coffee over the years. She personally selected the supplies of coffee beans for the shop and worked closely with Morph Coffee who roasted the beans for 1/15 in order to achieve the optimum taste yields. “We also trained our baristas very carefully,” added Lia; “from the brewing technique to a proper understanding of the beans and its flavor. They need to know everything about coffee and be able to consistently prepare a perfect cup, we also send them out for competitions and barista championships almost every year to let them keep up with what is going on out there with the other coffee shops.” Apart from having vast options of breakfast-inspired dishes made freshly in their kitchen, Lia has also included a little touch of her childhood in the menu: Palembang dishes. From the rich and thick Mie Celor with hearty coconut milk broth with shrimp and noodles to the rainy day remedy Tekwan –Palembang clear soup with fish balls, glass noodles and mushrooms, that were all prepared by Lia’s aunt who is a great Palembang cook. Growing up in a family that revolves around food – especially Palembang dishes,

1/15 COFFEE | Jalan Gandaria 1/63, Jakarta | T: +62 21 722 5678 www.1-15coffee.com | Instragram & Twitter @115coffee

had formed Lia’s palate into declaring a true love for pempek, a Sumatera style fish cake that can either be served steamed or fried with spicy, sweet and sour dipping sauce. As she grew up with the dish, Lia had also asked her aunt to provide pempek as one of the food served at 1/15. Not only that Lia and her kids loved it, many of the customers had enjoyed having a cup of cappuccino with a plateful of pempek. “It never was easy to start 1/15, from selecting the finest beans and eventually providing menus for the customers to enjoy as well. But the idea that these are all the things that I love and I truly enjoy has given me the extra confidence in my products,” shared Lia about what makes her coffee shop a hit; “add that with the passion that we have for coffee and I guess that is what kept our espresso machine brewing all day long.” When not busy managing the shop and indulging in her favorite pempek, Lia globetrots ever so frequently to find new inspirations for the store by visiting her favorite brewers like Tim Wendelboe’s store in Norway while often carrying few bags of beans back home as a special treat to her customers. Lia and the team are currently preparing a new concept of take away coffee cart that will be located in office buildings around Jakarta, so do watch for that pick-me-ups in your office.

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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E

DEE LESTARI by GUPTA SITORUS AND PRIMO RIZKY

A movie about coffee? Great timing we believe, for our Coffee Issue. We sit down with renowned author, Dee Lestari about the inspirations that have helped her develop her short story, Filosopi Kopi, and about how she usually enjoys her coffee.

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ewi Lestari, now fondly addressed as Dee by friends and fans, was formerly known as one of the singers of the vocal trio, RSD. In 2001, she published her science fiction novel Supernova, which catapulted Dee’s name to the country’s list of top writers and gained for her the reputation as one of the country’s best modern literature authors. Since then, many of her succeeding books have been best sellers and have even been adapted into motion pictures. Filosofi Kopi, or the Coffee Philosophy, is the most recent adaptation of Dee’s writing. The movie is ready to hit the cinema this April. The Foodie Magazine: There are so many other literature works that were inspired by and focused on food, but why did you choose coffee? Dee Lestari: I began working on Filosofi Kopi when I was in college, around 1996. At that time, I had not become a professional writer and writing was just a hobby. So back then I did not think of comparing my writing with other literature works, or care too much about what motivated me to write the story, I simply wanted to write about coffee. To me, coffee is a well-defined, characteristic drink (basically the same opinion of Ben, the main character in Filosofi Kopi, Red.), and I wanted to dedicate a piece of writing for coffee. So it was that simple. TFM: Does the Tiwus Coffee, which becomes an important element of Filosofi Kopi, really exist? If this is something that came out of your imagination, how did you come up with the idea? DL: That is exactly what my dad asked me. When he first read the Filosofi Kopi, he thought of getting some of Tiwus Coffee for himself, haha. Well, turned out that it was only his daughter’s imagination. At the time I wrote the story, I wanted to create

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a collision between Ben’s creation – he thought he had concocted the best coffee drink in the world – and something that is so simple and is totally out of his range. Therefore, I came up with Tiwus Coffee, an antithesis of everything that Ben ever made. Tiwus Coffee is a free range coffee without concept that is often sold at a very cheap price or even given for free; but wait until you reveal the “magical” power of Tiwus Coffee. Getting curious? You have to taste it for yourself, through my words. Haha!

magazine once made it their main story several years ago.

TFM: When was your first encounter with coffee?

TFM: When is your usual coffee time? Do you have special coffee ritual?

DL: As far as I remember, I had my first shot of coffee when I was a wee child, but that was only one or a couple sips. My dad introduced me to coffee. He would sometimes share 1-2 spoons of his coffee drink to me. My dad also taught me to add coffee to my favorite mashed avocado. The coffee really did wonder, and until now, Avocado Coffee is one of my favorite treats.

DL: Since I can’t have much, I really cherish my chance of having a cup of coffee. I choose to skip coffee when there is no real coffee available, because to me it would be a waste. I don’t have specific or favorite time for coffee, but I usually have it in the morning. I rarely drink coffee at afternoon or evening, or else I will have trouble sleeping.

TFM: What is the meaning of ‘coffee’ for Dewi Lestari? DL: Coffee is definitely human’s ultimate dope. Believe it or not, coffee actually sustained people’s modern living – Time

TFM: How do you like your coffee? DL: Lately, I prefer a softer version of coffee, like cafe latte or cappuccino, after I found out that over the last decade my body is sensitive to the effects of caffeine. I also prefer smaller portion, a tiny cup of coffee but not espresso. And, I like to experiment by adding spices such as cinnamon to replace sugar.

We are sure many of you out there are keen coffee drinkers and appreciate your own styles and types of coffee. And maybe you do all have your own coffee philosophy. We look forward to seeing Filosopi Kopi and seeing how our philosophies will agree or differ.


CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E

DEWI LESTARI | Twitter: @deelestari

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CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E

Aston Utan by JED DOBLE photographs by DENNIE RAMON

“I think that coffee culture, like the caffeine itself, is addictive,” Aston Utan tells us. He says why, together with many other coffee stories as we sit down and have a cup with him.

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ston’s opener as we sit down with him at his popular café, Common Grounds, quite hit the nail on the head. As we have started to write this issue, the team and I have come to meet so many coffee addicts. Many being sucked into the coffee culture, just purely for the love of this elixir. Aston continues: “For those who drink coffee, it is very ritualistic. People have different preferences when it comes to their coffee. It is very personal. Some like it black, or with milk. Some like cappuccinos, macchiatos, or lattes. Coffee is fully customizable, yet still falls under one category. “ As I listen to Aston, it becomes clearer to me, that all of these coffee people we have met, are drawn to the individuality of coffee yet they are still part of the bigger coffee culture. Coffee has been around for so many years. It was very ground breaking when it was first discovered. Back then, only kings and politicians and very wealthy people had access to it. But since it sparked creativity and discussion, its popularity caught on. Now, there is such an interesting pull towards coffee. “The past five to ten years have been a renaissance for coffee. Since it has been around anyway, especially in Indonesia. What’s new is the way that people are now giving more attention to coffee: the way it is processed and prepared. Taking care of how the coffee is grown or plucked,” Aston observes. For Aston and the team at Common Grounds, they not only want to serve the coffee, but they strive to always look for the best quality coffee that they can find, whether its grown locally or abroad. “Baristas in our mind, have a role that is not just like a bartender, someone who just serves the coffee or serves the drink, we consider ourselves like sommeliers, we are very well trained. And we continue to train ourselves to deepen our knowledge on coffee. That’s why we do continuous cupping programs here. We have different kinds of coffees. We are able to share our passion about coffee to the everyday person. With that we see a growing appreciation for coffee.” Aston tells me that in the beginning

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he was not really into coffee. He would probably have one cup a week, to him, he didn’t need it. But he says he enjoyed it. He just didn’t grow up in a high coffee consuming household, he says. He says that there were three very specific moments in his life that gave him paradigm shifts in the way he thought or saw coffee. These times were so eye opening for Aston, that they were breakthroughs. And from these, he just wanted to learn more and more about coffee. The first moment was when he drank a properly made cappuccino. “The espresso was great, and the steaming of the milk was proper, not too hot, it was silky, creamy and smooth. I had never had a coffee taste that great in terms of taste and texture. It was the texture that really got me the most, I had never had a coffee that silky smooth before. That was almost ten years ago now, at a Segafredo here.” Once I had that, I kept on coming back for it. Not really for the caffeine but for the texture and how it tasted. That’s why up to this day, my favorite coffee is still a cappuccino no matter what. Its always got a balance to it, if you make it right, its sweet, its got a little bit of acidity, a little bit of bitterness, chocolately, creamy, pretty much everything you would want in a beverage is in a cappuccino. It’s just so wholesome and so wonderful.” Aston’s second breakthrough moment, was when he had a filtered coffee. “It was the first time I had a black coffee that was not acidic, not bitter and it was sweet. It was very, very not intense, really chill, and it was tea-like I never thought black coffee could taste this way because it was so much more zen-like. With the move towards single origin coffees, you can actually highlight the interesting and unique flavors by having a filtered coffee.” The last epiphany was when Aston tasted geisha coffee. The geisha is a legendary coffee, thought to be the closest specie to the earliest coffee known to man. “If you have never had a geisha before, be prepared to have your mind blown. It is a coffee which tastes fruity and floral and is very sweet. It has a very interesting

flavor. The first time I had a geisha it was a cappuccino, the beans were roasted as an espresso and then made with milk. It was during the World Latte Art Competition, where we competed in Melbourne last year, and all the coffee people were there. At that point, I had never had a cappuccino that tasted that good. Every one of these moments betters the precious one and my mind keeps getting smashed.” With Aston’s confessions, his love for coffee is extremely palpable. As he and many others continue to nourish the country’s coffee culture, it seems that there will be many more exciting coffee developments in the near future. ASTON UTAN | Instagram: @autan1


CO N F E S S IO N S O F A F O O DI E

COMMON GROUNDS | Citywalk Sudirman, Floor GF, Jalan KH. Mas Mansyur Kav. 121, Jakarta T: +62 21 2555 8963 | Instagram & Twitter: @commongroundsjkt

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TRIED AND TESTED

W EBBER >< T H E FOODIE

FRESH APPLE TART

by JED DOBLE photographs by MELANIE TANUSETIAWAN

What better way to cap off a nice meal than with a bright and simple dessert. Chef Christian Bruhns shares with us his childhood favorite, Fresh Apple Tart.

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s chef-ambassador of Webber Kitchen Appliances, Chef Christian has at his disposal the many interesting and innovative appliances of Webber. He is also constantly on the look out for interesting recipes and dishes to share. He draws a lot of his inspiration from his travels and memories of his native Germany. Christian started cooking when he was just 6 years old, helping his mother in the kitchen and baking cakes. I would assume that this first introduction into the wide world of cooking, has left its mark on the now prolific chef. His work and travels have taken him far from Germany, but have come to inspire him in his work. After working in the Americas and Europe, Christian was enticed to travel to Asia to work at a number of five star hotels. His first stop was Shanghai, to work at the Hilton Shanghai. Like many Westerners before him, Shanghai was his proverbial entry into China and Asia. Here he learned a lot about Chinese cuisine, its myriad of unique and exciting ingredients and the versatility of its cookery. But what struck him most, was the totally different culture, tradition and lifestyle that the Chinese lived. On a recent trip to Jakarta, we met up with Chef Christian to get to know him better and we asked if he could share with us a few recipes. A few months back, we featured his festive beef roulade. This month, we show his Fresh Apple Tart. He tells us that this is inspired by a traditional apple tart made by his mother and was a common dessert back home. Watching him prepare it, I reckon that it is something many of us can do at home, with the help of Christianâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recipe and step by step methods, it would be fun to try it. The tart was light and not too sweet, perfect as a dessert or an afternoon snack. I hope our readers will give it a try at home. If you do, please let us know and send in your photos and comments. We would love to hear from you.

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B R O U G H T TO Y O U B Y W E B B E R

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TRIED AND TESTED

BRAISED BEEF ROULADE WITH SAUTÉED ROOT VEGETABLES Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS:

150 gr Butter 150 gr Sugar 3 pcs Eggs 150 gr Flour 75 gr Walnuts, chopped 4 pcs Apple, peeled and sliced thinly 120 gr Mascarpone 40 gr Honey 1/8 tsp Cinnamon powder 75 gr Icing sugar

STEPS

• Preheat the oven to 180C • Cream together butter and sugar in a mixing bowl then add in eggs gradually. • Whisk in the flour and chopped walnuts, mix well.

• Roll up from the filled end and tie with a string.

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B R O U G H T TO Y O U B Y W E B B E R

• Grease the tart mold with butter and spoon in the mixture up to 3/4 of the height. • Arrange the sliced apple on top of the mixture and gently push into the mixture. Bake for 20 minutes, set aside to cool.

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• Whisk together mascarpone, honey and cinnamon powder until combined. • To serve, dust the top of the tart with icing sugar and add a spoonful of the mascarpone cream. Serve immediately.

UNQUE IN THE MARKET The Webber MA4343X Oven is equipped with revoluntionary technology that allows you to achieve best cooking results with energy and space savings whilst harnessing the benefits of speed, efficiency, convenience to achieve wonderful cooking results be it bake, steam, roast, grill or microwave; or all these functions in one oven! For more information on stockists, visit the Webber Gallery today! WEBBER GALLERY Jakarta Design Centre Jl. Gatot Subroto Kav. 53, 7th Floor, Jakarta 10260 Tel: +62 210536077702 marketing@kitchenatelier.co.id

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STUFF OF LEGENDS


WIDYAPRATAMA â&#x20AC;&#x201C; MASTER ROASTER by RIAN FARISA photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Finally, our trail to seek good coffee led us to meet Widyapratama, a philosopher and a master roaster behind the success of Kopi Aroma.


STUFF OF LEGENDS

T

he antiquated marble sign says “Aroma – Paberik Kopi”. Even without the knowledge of Kopi Aroma’s historic stature, we will all be convinced that it came from decades ago. Take a look at the archaic art deco font. It was a sight you will rarely encounter anymore in this country. On the bottom of it, the word “paberik” signified that it came from old Indonesian spelling. The marble sign, which was quite recently renewed, made everything look charming again despite Kopi Aroma’s decaying exterior paintwork. It was enough to convey Kopi Aroma’s authority as an 85 year old coffee roaster, the darling of Bandung coffee lovers with a nationwide reputation. The roaster survived and flourished throughout years of competition and tribulation under the adept hands of its owners. Now it is running in full capacity under the leadership of Mr. Widyapratama as the second generation owner. Business seemed good with the long queue of caffeine lovers waiting for their share of good coffee out front. They each were waiting for Kopi Aroma’s coffeefilled retro-look paper bags with old Bahasa Indonesia inscriptions on it with an instruction for customers on how to store the coffee well. These wonderful white bags have also apparently reached the shores of famous supermarkets outside of Bandung. After being escorted by one of his daughters, Pak Widya fetched us right at the entrance of his warehouse. He greeted us and appeared relaxed in his brown safari shirt, the same uniform like everybody who works here. In contrast with his stout-looking workers, Pak Widya is a man in his 60s with a scrawny figure but has this wide, honest smile that emits good health and high spirit. He’s not only an experienced coffee roaster, but also a lecturer for Padjadjaran University and an active board member of a renowned school in Bandung. “Morning is for work and nighttime is for sleeping. Don’t do

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the opposite like youngsters nowadays”, he said as a man who spends every day since very early until evening as a business owner and a teacher. It’s a delightful experience to see a roaster’s playground. There are old machineries that you will rarely see anymore nowadays. Sacks and sacks of coffee beans that came from farmers of all over Indonesia were stored after dried for weeks on the farms here. “We aged the arabica beans for a full eight years time and robusta for five years before we roast it. It’s all based on the experience that my late father taught me”, he said. For Kopi Aroma, this method became the way to standardize its coffee beans and to deliver the best result for the customers. The best gimmick of all of Kopi Aroma’s workflow is the use of German’s Probat drum roasters which are still fueled by firewood. It’s their pride and joy since the day it began its business in 1930. “We only use sustainable wood from rubber plants and the roasting process takes around two hours. The heat has to be maintained by using five to six small blocks of wood and all you have to do is to wait until the beans start to give away the popping sound”, said Pak Widya scientifically. Seeing our curiosity, Pak Widya couldn’t help but to tease us, “You might not want to become a writer forever, learn from me on how to become a coffee businessman!” As a lecturer in entrepreneurship, he swayed us with his tales of success and the discipline that he maintains while at it. Interesting, but it’s not an easy path to choose. “My father saved up some money while apprenticing to a Dutch coffee businessman so he can finally open up Kopi Aroma. He had since taught me how to run the business in detail and that I should not derail out of the consistency if I want to continue this business forever”, he continued. To continue his father’s legacy, he

treads an ascetic way of life for decades now but still leading a harmonious, balanced life where he could also become a philanthropist. That surely came from experience with willingness to tread this path wholeheartedly. “What is the use of working only for worldly achievements? We have to save up for our afterlife as well. God is our witness”, he said sternly of his beliefs. We then passed through the front sales counter where Pak Widya’s family and staff were busy packing the coffee in small batches and weighing them one by one to cater to the customers’ specific orders. It is said that to ensure the quality, Kopi Aroma will advise its customers to buy in small quantity first and then to return again some other time after they finished their last batch. As it turns out, we shared so much in common from how we once attended the same school in Bandung until the point where I revealed that my great grandfather used to own the convenient store right across Kopi Aroma. He was surprised but happy to hear that. “Your great grandfather was a good man. He and my father used to sit on the porch and drink the coffee together every afternoon. Their friendship was genuine, unlike people nowadays”, he reminisced. I was touched. Hearing the story about my great grandfather, whom I never had the chance to meet in all my life from somebody who is not your family. It was a proud moment for me. That’s why with people like Pak Widya, the history can be preserved well. His late father Mr. Tan Houw Sian and Pak Widya himself are those who put the extra effort to make our coffee world at this level now. Even with all what’s happening outside, Kopi Aroma is timeless, but will always be considered highly as one of the pioneers. It has always been walking its pace slowly but for sure, no one will forget its legacy.


STUFF OF LEGENDS

KOPI AROMA | Jalan Banceuy no. 51, Bandung | T: +62 22 423 0473

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PA N T R Y 1 0 1

Coffee Methods by KYLE GREGORIO

FRENCH PRESS

MOKA POT

TURKISH

French press coffee is dense and heavy. Though it’s sometimes criticized for being chalky, we think that a well-prepared French press is actually quite pure. But be careful: Of all methods, French press is perhaps the most vulnerable to over-extraction. For this reason, it’s necessary to transfer the entire contents of your pot to a cup or carafe immediately after it’s finished brewing.

Moka Pot stovetop brewers produce a dense concentrated cup that’s something between espresso and Turkish coffee. Coffee is placed into a filter between the lower chamber (that you fill with water) and the upper chamber that will contain the finished beverage after brewing. Since the water is forced through the cake of coffee by pressure, the process bears more resemblance to espresso extraction than infusion (gravity-based) brewing. It’s an edgy way to make coffee.

No coffee world tour is complete without a stop in Turkey, where longhandled pots made from copper and brass (known as a cezve or ibrik) create a surprisingly, satisfyingly thick coffee with natural sweetness, enjoyed throughout the Middle East. Turkish coffee starts with a very fine grind. There are special brass Turkish grinders that create a powder as fine as confectioner’s sugar. This quite distinctive preparation of coffee is enjoyed in small cups, once the remaining powder settles at the bottom.

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PA N T R Y 1 0 1

There are many methods for brewing a fine cup of Joe-no single technique is right for everyone. The method you choose for brewing your coffee should be based on your needs and your unique coffee preferences.

SYPHON

DRIP

espresso machine

Siphon coffee makers are made up of four parts: the bottom container where the water initially sits and the brewed coffee eventually rests; a top container that has a siphon tube attached to it (and a hole in the bottom of the vessel), where the coffee brewing takes place; a type of sealing material (usually a rubber gasket) to help create a partial vacuum in the lower vessel while brewing is taking place, and a filter, which can be made of glass, paper, metal, or cloth. Full immersion brewing brings out coffee’s intense fruity flavors — especially with dry processed beans — and the standard cloth filter yields a cup so clean you could drink out of it.

Arguably the simplest and cleanest way to draw out a coffee’s best qualities, the pour-over method is elegant without being prohibitively difficult. For those accustomed to coffee from a drip machine, this method will produce something similar but noticeably more delicate and complex. Standard drip coffee makers have their uses. Automatic timers can be mighty helpful, especially the night before you fly out. If you’re making coffee for ten people after dinner, it’s easy to just load up, hit a button, and meet standard expectations. In my blind tests, too, some drinkers, given the right beans, ranked certain cups of drip above the handcrafted competition.

Espresso is a single shot of coffee from an espresso machine. Making “good” espresso is an art form, and needs much research and practice to develop the best results. This is only a very basic starting place. Every machine is different. It is a matter of learning your machine and how to work with it. Also, practice good maintenance with it. Patience and practice is needed because getting this wonderful and flavorful, illusive brew we call espresso is an art form. There is a learning process to be enjoyed, not fussed over. It’s the process of learning that makes mastery a sweeter accomplishment.

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W H AT C H E F E AT S

Winnie Kusumawardhani by RAFAEL REYES photographs by DENNIE RAMON

Female chefs are few and far between in the very male dominated world of culinary. Chef Winnie is one of these successful and talented chefs who can hold her own against any male chef.

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“I

love hawker food,” Chef Winnie exclaims. One of her biggest favorites is Sop Kaki Kaming in Roxy. “I love lamb. And the lamb at Sop Kaki Kambing tastes really good. I love the spices, its very tender and it doesn’t have a gamey taste.” Sometimes, Winnie says, she also eats their satay kambing and washes it down with the young coconut juice. She visits the place with her friends to hang out. Because she and her family have been coming since she was a kid, they have come to know the owners and they have become family friends. Foodipia , premiering this month on The Indonesia Channel, is Chef Winnie’s new TV show. It is a travel cum cooking show wherein Winnie will showcase different food groups and share her recipes. We are eagerly looking forward to her new foray into food TV. Since it is our coffee issue, I ask Winne about coffee. She reveals that she is a huge coffee addict. “I am a big coffee fan. I take my coffee black, with no sugar. Tubruk style.” Kopi Tubruk is an Indonesian-style coffee where coarse coffee grounds are boiled along with solid sugar, resulting in a thick drink similar to Turkish coffee. The coffee grounds are allowed to settle before sipping the drink. Winnie reveals that since she is constantly traveling, she is fortunate to be able to buy coffee from the source. “When I travel, I buy coffee everywhere. I take two or three kilos of the local coffee whenever I have the chance. When I bring it back, I grind them daily and brew my coffee whenever I want some.” Winnie tells us that here favorite coffee is from Aceh. It has a woody and eathy after taste which she really likes. She also likes coffee from Belitung and Toraja. She doesn’t frequent any particular coffee shop because she really likes making her own coffee. I wonder when Winnie will invite us to share a cup of her own coffee.

THE INDONESIA CHANNEL | www.theindonesiachannel.com



The Foodie Magazine - March - April 2015