STUFF OF LEGENDS
J
apanese-born Tetsuya Wakuda moved to Sydney in 1982, he was then twenty-two years old, had a limited knowledge of English, and came with a single suitcase and his tremendous love of food. Who would have known then that he would become one of the world’s most loved chefs. He began as a kitchen hand and a year later became a sushi chef for renowned Sydney chef Tony Bilson at Kinsela’s. While here he learned classical French techniques and and began to develop his own style of cooking. Today, the combination of classic methods together with the simplicity and seasonality of Japanese cuisine are the hallmarks of Tetsuya’s cooking. After he left Kinsela’s, Tetsuya in partnership with the head waiter, opened Ultimo’s. Not only until 1989 did his dream of opening his eponymous place, Tetsuya’s, came to fruition, when he opened on a small site in the Sydney suburb of Rozelle. In 2000, Tetsuya’s relocated to the now famous refurbished heritage-listed site at 529 Kent Street in the Sydney CBD, now designed to his specifications, complete with dining rooms overlooking an exquisite Japanese garden. Chef Tetsuya’s gentle and unassuming personality is reflected in his cooking. Whether it be Botan shrimp, New Zealand scampi, ocean trout or sea urchin, he enhances them with subtle yet elegant, eastern flourishes. His cooking style is fresh and uncomplicated with concentrating on boosting flavors and not smothering the main ingredient. “We take the best produce, do very little to them, and enhance their flavors. No more, no less,” Tetsuya explains. With his own style of cooking, Tetsuya is probably one of the most famous Japanese chefs worldwide. He is always proud to promote Japanese cuisine was honoured to
86 | www.thefoodiemag.com
be selected as the Japanese sake industry’s first overseas Sake Samurai (or ambassador) in 2006. And in 2013, Tetsuya was honored by the Japanese government, as the first ever internationally based chef to be bestowed the tile of Japan’s Master of Cuisine. In 2010, Tetsuya embarked upon an exciting culinary venture in Singapore. He opened Waku Ghin, is located in the spectacular Marina Bay Sands complex. Here he continues to demonstrate the evolution of his cuisine with his modern, versatile European-Japanese cooking. It is perhaps largely thanks to him that high-end Japanese food is now so embraced and celebrated across the world. The name ‘Waku Ghin’ is derived from two Japanese words: ‘Waku’ which means to ‘arise’ (like water pouring forth from a hot spring) and ‘Ghin’ meaning ‘silver’, which is Chef Tetsuya’s signature color found throughout the restaurant space. In each of the restaurant’s private rooms, a chef rings forward the season’s best produce to the Chef’s Table, which include signatures such as the Marinated Botan Shrimp with Sea Urchin and Caviar and Wagyu with Wasabi and Citrus Soy. Guests are then escorted to the main dining room for desserts and coffee while soaking in sensational views of the Singapore skyline. Chef Tetsuya tells me that for Waku Ghin, he imports majority of the ingredients from Japan. “I love cooking with seafood. 80-90% of the menu is seafood. I will use only the freshest produce and ingredients every time.” Our discussion gravitates to food trends. We observe that in the last five years, the food has come back to basics. “Now people are looking towards simplicity and the focus of food has been on technique. I always want to just enhance the flavor of the food,” Chef Tetsuya shares. “Now more and
more, the focus is where the food comes from, the use of organic produce and back to natural.” Chef Tetsuya goes on to recounts what Chef Ferran Adria of El Bulli told him during his visit to Singapore last year: “Brother, you should always keep doing what you do. Do not change your style of cooking.” During my short conversation with Chef Tetsuya you see how genuinely simple and passionate he is with food and his work. He is encouraged by young cooks and chefs who work with him and he is able to see the same passion in them. He shares that he is encouraged to open a pastry shop since he has met a young chef who has the drive and the passion for pastry and maybe even a chocolatier is joining the group. “I see young chefs who work hard and try very hard to do their best. I am encouraged by them. If someone has a dream and a passion, if I can help, then I will help.” He says he will try to support these young and passionate people to grow in the food and beverage business. Unlike thirty or forty years ago, the cooking profession was looked down upon, now it has become a respected profession and young people are getting into it. He wants to support them and help them grow. The awarding of Chef Tetsuya Wakuda as the recipient of the Lifetime Achievement Award for his life-long dedication to the industry by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants is a testament to his passion and love for food. “My culinary journey has been nothing short of amazing since I first stumbled into cooking at the age of 22 in Sydney. This is a great honour and recognition for the talented team at Waku Ghin. I am humbled and thankful for the support from my team, our friends and Marina Bay Sands. We look forward to continue delivering the finest experience to our guests.”