ISSUE ZERO / FALL 2012
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Holding this magazine in your hands right now is the equivalent of holding a grenade. For too long menswear magazines have lacked that accessible quality, force-feeding their readership un-relatable and non-affordable content. Bobby Dazzler magazine is a force of change. Its industry debut is the equivalent of pulling out the pin. Bobby Dazzler addresses a younger, often ignored and highly feared demographic. An age group (consisting of 18 to 25 year olds) which might not be the most affluent, but is assuredly the most influential. They come from every walk of life; their common link being an appreciation for self-style. Those that look to the catwalk for the newest styles neglect to remember that, to find a new species, you need only look in your back garden. The city of London is Bobby Dazzler ’s playground or battlefield, this magazine its glorified treasure map. Hampstead Heath, the disused council estates of Elephant and Castle, the kebab-laced streets of Shoreditch and beyond, these are but a few of the realms that embody and celebrate the magazine’s diverse personality, and bridge the gap between fashion and lad’s culture. Bobby Dazzler is a biannual reconnaissance of London style. From the graphic knits of C.Newing to the acid wash denim of Nok Nok London, to the nostalgic musings of Man Like Me and the soulful sounds of Project Alfie – each embody their own unique energy and, in the words of actor Ed Skrein, seek to “represent our generation properly”. Catch us if you can. Faith Millward, Editor in Chief. @BobbyDazzlermag
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EDITOR IN CHIEF Faith Millward firstname.lastname@example.org
HEAD OF PRESS/FASHION EDITOR Daniel Piggott - Stewart email@example.com
ART DIRECTOR Robert de Niet firstname.lastname@example.org
IN HOUSE HAIR AND MAKE UP Gareth Smith Caterina Maiolini PHOTOGRAPHERS Christopher Fields Daniel Nebel James Robert-Brown Karen Storey Tracer Ital Will Palmer-Reeves STYLISTS Khris Johnson Laura Harvey FASHION ASSISTANTS Amelida Hasani Cheyenne Stewart-Flannery Kerie Sayers Sammy Small Zinab Rama
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Carla Seipp Charlotte Sefton Lore Oxford Owen Millward Paul Scott Philip Latz Yohance Lewis GRAPHIC DESIGN Stefano Meroni ILLUSTRATORS David Berj Jack Byne Kara Marshall Khris Johnson Melissa Moulden Michael Joseph Pedro Rebelo Phoebe Evens
A MOST SPECIAL THANKS TO: Abdul Kamulegeya Amy Steadman Angel Nokonoko Becky Connor Bronia Stewart Cherie Newing Chrisandrea Philippou Daniel Williams Debbie Jordine Donna Spiers Ed Skrein Elaine Millward Stephen Millward Emily Frost Chloe Franks Eric Troung Grace Campbell Harriet Sweet Henri Pickersgill Iain Mitchell Isaac Carew Joe Williams John Piggott Jonny Williams
Jordan Shiels Kerry Bannigan Ksenia Schnaider Laura Crouch Laura Hinttula Laura Silverberg Lonsdale Boys Club Louis Vincent Lucinda Goodwin Man Like Me Mark Haddon Megan Falconer-Taylor Michelle Ewin Oliver Proudlock Patrick Egbon-Marshall Pippa Gower Project Alfie Sean Choudhury The team at Humdrum Apparel Ty Evans-Akingbola Staff at the following: Budgens Inconvenience Store & Workman’s Cafe on Holloway Road.
BOBBY DAZZLER’S STATISTICS 1 MAN-HATING DOBERMAN 2 HOME-MADE BALACLAVAS 3 EMERGING DESIGNERS 4 MODELLING AGENCIES 5 FRY-UPS A WEEK (FOR DANIEL) 6 OF OUR FAVOURITE STREET-WEAR BRANDS 7 HUNDRED GUESTS CORDIALLY INVITED TO BOBBY DAZZLER’S LAUNCH PARTY 8 HIGH-TOPS TOSSED 9 SHOOTS ON LOCATION AROUND LONDON 10 LIFE-CHANGING WARDROBE INVESTMENTS FOR THE BOBBY DAZZLER BLOKE. BOBBY DAZZLER ISSUE ZERO Published by BD Publishing Printed in the UK by The Magazine Printing Company Enquiries: BOBBY DAZZLER Magazine, Office 1, 3 Criterion Mews, Islington, N19 3EN, London, United Kingdom For subscriptions please email: email@example.com
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without written permission from the publishers. © 2012 BOBBY DAZZLER Magazine/BD Publishing The views expressed in BOBBY DAZZLER are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the publisher or BOBBY DAZZLER Magazine these parties cannot be held responsible for them. BOBBY DAZZLER is published two times a year.
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ISSUE ZERO WORDS
ISSUE ZERO / FALL 2012
ISSUE ZERO / FALL 2012
SWINDONIAN RHAPSODY by Daniel Piggott-Stewart SUPER (S)TRUONG by Carla Seipp MAN LIKE ME by Faith Millward THE SURGE OF SERGE by Faith Millward STREETWEAR TO WATCH Interviewed by Faith Millward DAYTIME ROBBERY by Lore Oxford ED SKREIN by Daniel Piggott-Stewart & Faith Millward WHAT’S IT ALL ABOUT by Daniel Piggott-Stewart AIR JORDAN by Yohance Lewis FACE IT by Daniel Piggott-Stewart DESPERATELY SEEKING by Daniel Piggott- Stewart and Faith Millward TRENDS by Faith Millward MORE TRENDS by Faith Millward A SCENT-UCATION by Carla Seipp PERFECT 10 by Philip Latz THE KEY TO SUCCESS by Paul Scott MERCY & WILD by Daniel Piggott - Stewart TIP-TOP, HIP-HOP by Faith Millward TAKING THE MAN OUT OF MANNERS by Owen Millward ALTERNATIVE STYLE Icons by Daniel Piggott-Stewart and Faith Millward THE CLASS OF 2012 by Daniel Piggott-Stewart and Faith Millward COVER BOY interviewed by Faith Millward
COVER PHOTOGRAPER - Tracer Ital STYLING - Faith Millward MODEL - Fletch Harrington @ D1 Models CLOTHES - Stop sign jumper and punchcard joggers by C.Newing, rucksack by Topman, hat stylist’s own.
IMAGES WHAT A BUNCH OF JEFFERY DAHMERS - Photographer Christopher Fields - Styling Faith Millward AN INCONVENIENCE STORE - Photographer Tracer Ital - Styling Khris Johnson BOXERS - Photographer Tracer Ital - Styling Faith Millward TOSSERS - Photographer Daniel Nebel - Styling Daniel Piggott - Stewart HARD KNOCK LIFE - Photographer Tracer Ital - Styling Faith Millward SHADOW PLAY - Photographer Karen Storey - Styling Faith Millward BEASTIE BOYS - Photographer James Robert-Brown- Styling Laura Harvey PENSIVE PRINTS - Photographer Will Palmer-Reeves - Styling Faith Millward
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Unlike the hoards of hopefuls who flood the stage of reality tv shows for their instant big break, Altieri is content to quietly work on his craft. “I don’t want to make it because of the money or fame,” he continues, “I just want it purely for the music.” With a Brit-indie aesthetic and spiky punk vibe, Altieri’s style can be described as an amalgamation of the Libertines and West London’s Ben Howard. What contributes to Altieri’s likable sound and all-round charm is the rawness in his music; he has yet to be moulded and pigeon-holed by an industry renowned for crushing the artistic integrity of musical talent. “There are loads of people in the industry that inspire me,” Altieri says in our interview. “Paul Weller, James Blake, Arctic Monkeys, SBTRKT...” he lists enthusiastically. “And I really admire producers who aren't afraid to cross over different genres.” Far from a musical neophyte, Altieri demonstrates his encyclopaedic knowledge of artists and eclectic taste. “I listen to so much different music and I think that rubs off in my material,” he says. “I sometimes listen to my parents’ record collection which can be anything from Marvin Gaye to George Clinton, so perhaps that's why some of my music is more funky. The combination of listening to older records and listening to more current music really makes me experiment with things.”
Photograph Chris Adams
Born and bred in the heart of the south-west, Altieri was raised in a culturally diverse town famous for its magic roundabout. “Swindon gets a lot of stick, but it really is a great place,” he says patriotically. “It has influenced some of my music because I like to write about the people and things that go on here.” Swindon itself has pride of place in popular culture. Its leisure centre is heralded as providing the inspiration for the name of Brit pop band, Oasis, and it is also the birthplace of alternative rock band XTC. “Many people on the music scene in Swindon are very supportive,” he continues. “There are promising things coming from the area and there is a lot of good music.” Swindon’s pool of talent continues to grow with a generation of new artists, including The Alfonz, Young Blood and Daine Angel. The latter of which has just collaborated with Altieri on a new track entitled ‘Txt Me Back’ which has received notable airtime on BBC radio’s 1Xtra as ‘record of the week’.
Bobby Dazzler introduces the musical stylings of Theo Altieri. An unsigned prodigy who writes and plays his own music and has gigged with Babyshambles... did we mention that he’s only fifteen? Text and interview by Daniel Piggott - Stewart Theo Altieri is all-round enviable. Forget the boyish charm and that set of eyes which his local Swindonian newspaper once commented “will break hearts” – it is his voice and musical ability that will have you turning green. Or at the very least, cause your dopamine levels to fluctuate like they did when watching Susan Boyle’s first X Factor audition. While listening to Altieri for the first time, it’s astonishing to comprehend the maturity of his vocal ability. While many boys his age are just getting past the pesky rasping squarks of their voices breaking, Altieri’s resonates. His most recent track, the thought-provoking euphonic ‘Something Real,’ is just one song that best exemplifies this – a nostalgic number which might just have you ravaging the repeat button on Youtube. “I write songs about people I meet and things that I see,” he said in an interview with video producer and DJ Chris Adams. “It’s nice to challenge your listeners so they’ve got something to think about.”
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Altieri’s close-knit family are perhaps the initial inspiration behind his musical aspirations. Contributing to his musical hobby, they were heavily featured within the feel-good video montage for his catchy track ‘Leave Me Alone’. “I was always surrounded by music at home,” he claims. “And my brother plays guitar as well.” Older sibling Ben has been at the forefront of several bands, notably The Purple Streams, Napoleon In Rags and most recently Young Blood, where he opened the Strawberry Fields festival main stage in August. “I love the band, I see them a lot,” Altieri says. “I wouldn't mind going on tour with them, it would be a laugh!” In his spare time, when not writing or traveling to London to record music, Altieri gigs and has done since he was eleven. His favourite performance to date involved supporting Babyshambles when they played a secret gig in Cricklade. “The place was heaving and had an amazing atmosphere,” he says. “I’ve had many other cool and strange ones, like the time I played in the Henri Lloyd clothes store in Carnaby Street.” Altieri dreams big. “I want to get an album together that includes all of my new stuff that I still haven't released yet,” he says enthusiastically. “I would also really like to make videos for some of my songs.” Obviously talented and unwaveringly ambitious, does he have any other ambitions? “I'm just looking to take over the world and bring back real music!” In perhaps a taste of things to come a punter at a recent gig in Swindon said to Altieri, in starstruck adoration, that he felt he felt he “was watching part of history being made.” Bobby Dazzler couldn’t agree more. @TheoAltieriUK
Ravensbourne graduate Eric Truong is already off to an extremely promising career start. The pattern cutter and designer, who admits he “fell into menswear during my foundation year” is the man behind BOYforTRUONG. The label is part of a new generation of London menswear designers looking to push the Ready To Wear genre outside of its rather small and conservative boundaries. “In womenswear, it’s very hard to be shocking nowadays or to really make a statement — everyone’s already done everything. With menswear, it’s a lot more refreshing, there’s so much more you can push, but at the same time you can’t go too out there, the changes always have to be little by little. That’s what I strive for, to just push it bit by bit,” Truong explains. Charismatically relaxed and smiling, the Thamesmead-native exudes a sense of steadfast optimism when discussing the direction of his label; although he realises the limitations that menswear can bring, he is not afraid to challenge them in his own individual way. Helping push the envelope is his graduate collection, The Purge, inspired by the Gaia hypothesis of natural disasters being the earth’s response to cleansing itself of humanity. This highly theoretical starting point resulted in a collection “about male narcissism, a mix between nature and the industrial”, combining workwear such as voluminous parkas and zipper detailing interjected with geometric, sci fiesque paneled knitwear, inspired by the structure of microscopic grains of sand. Truong’s designs are eye-catching but not in-your-face loud, something the designer sees as an essential part of his ideal customer. “He dresses smart, plays with his clothing and likes classic pieces with intricate details. I don’t want him to be making huge statements with his clothing, but instead have them be a part of him,” he explains of his sculptural yet athletically streamlined pieces. Outside of his most recent collection, Truong counts literature and art as constant sources of inspiration, citing Stephen King’s work and the paintings of Gerhard Richter as two current favourites. Alongside his own label, he is currently working on freelance design projects for other brands, stating that “it’s quite important, especially with fashion, to work on a few different things simultaneously so you don’t get bored”. Having done work experience at Alexander McQueen and Omar Kashoura, the designer is quick to stress the importance of dedication and endurance when it comes to staying afloat in the industry. “A lot of people start off in fashion thinking it’s fun and glamourous, then they quit because they realise it is fun at times but to get to that part you have to put in a lot of sweat and hard work. You really have to love it and have so much passion for it otherwise you won’t survive. It’s a demanding job, but it’s very rewarding. I think: if it’s not hard, it’s not worth it,” he states. Looking towards his post graduation future, Truong concludes: “I always feel like in life, things are either going to happen for you or they aren’t. You have to find your own things but see what life has given you and make the most of it. You can’t plan too heavily. At the moment I’m just gathering my own mind and seeing what comes to me.” http://www.boyfortruong.com Interview by Carla Seipp
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When asked to describe Man Like Me in three words, Peter Duffy epitomizes it simply with ‘Almost very good’. It may appear to the outsider that this north London, born and bred twosome take their new found notoriety with a pinch of salt, that the performing malarky comes as easy to them as blinking and that their effortlessly entertaining gigs are as spontaneous as someone singing karaoke in a pub on Friday night. In reality, despite how unrehearsed each gig, song or stage performance may look, they are each as carefully crafted with as much hard graft as any stadium show, the difference however is that for Man Like Me it is pure unadulterated fun at the heart of each performance. Modest and humble, they remain with their Nikes firmly on the ground. A modern day update of Del Boy and Rodney but with all the wheeler dealer swagger still in tact, Man Like Me are both outlandish but self conscious, fashionable but garish and confident yet retiring; to say that they are like Marmite would be far too clichéd. Summing up their roles is easy; ‘Johnny is the front man extraordinaire; we both write the songs but I play the sampler while Johnny runs around’, and Johnny definitely runs around. With more character than any of the attendees at the Mad Hatter’s tea party, Langer is, in our opinion, quite possibly the most vivacious front man we have ever seen. Like an excitable gibbon, armed with his Lidl bag and two piece Burberry suits he could give the likes of Freddie Mercury and Geddy Lee a run for their money. At first glance, you may recognise Peter Duffy and Johnny Langer from the 2010 IKEA advert, recreating musical great Jona Lewie’s hit ‘You’ll Always Find Them in the Kitchen at Parties’, complete with a cameo in the video from Lewie himself – the ultimate seal of approval. This pivotal move for Man Like Me catapulted them from the playlists of the minority to the small screens of the majority, all entirely decided by the big-wigs at IKEA warming to their off-beat personas. ‘We went down to do the audition, it was almost like an X factor situation; four people sat a table looking well stoney faced’. Explaining that he and Johnny had just returned from Croatia, playing a festival, and were feeling ‘a bit ropey’, Pete takes the main vocals in the song so was dipping his toe into entirely new waters. ‘Johnny is just kinda gifted at performing; they liked the look of Johnny and they were like we’ll let him do it, our management said that’s fine as long as Pete can come in and do a little too. I was just kinda singing a long and basically did the perfect impression of Jona Lewie, then all of a sudden it just flipped round and it was like ‘Okay, we’re gonna have Pete sing the song’’. It is safe to say that he rose to the challenge, but did he enjoy it? Admitting that although he really ‘got into it,’ Pete prefers to take more of a strong and silent kind of role on stage, being the glue rather than the fixture. ‘Unless I’ve got a laptop and keyboard in front of me, I don’t really know what to do. Johnny kinda schooled me through it though, I was glad he was there’. The band’s aforementioned stage presence, is so individual, that it will either leave you rushing to the nearest beyond retro to buy a vintage palm-print suit or reaching for your phone to call the nearest mental asylum; in other words, it is truly unique. You can only agree that it is extremely rare (ever since the beauty of auto-tune) to find a band that sound the same on record as live, but Man Like Me have that one nailed. Almost an anti boy-band, without intending to be so, Man Like Me takes all the attributes that should warrant a successful group and quite literally distorts them. The choreography is a mix of dad dancing and a 21st century take on ‘the robot,’ awkward yet totally intentional. Duffy explains that Man Like Me extravaganza of each show was born way back when the band first started out, with just Johnny and Pete on stage. ‘We felt really small and because I’m doing stuff on comp, it’s not that interesting to watch’. When the boys were starting out it was time of mass hysteria for the likes of ‘The Libertines’, everyone had an instrument based prop, Pete and Jonny had a LIdL bag. It was, in their own way, the boys awkwardly compensating for ‘not having a drum kit and not having all sorts of stuff going on’. Although they may not be perfectly coiffed and dressed in crisp linens, Man Like Me still recognise themselves as a boy-band, whatever that means. ‘We’ve always, in a funny way, had a boy-band influence; just from watching the Box when you were a kid and watching the Backstreet Boys and watching the routines and stuff.’ But as for their stage ensembles, ‘It just kinda adds to the spectacle, you know what I mean, things that you can bring a bit more of a show, because without that it wouldn’t be much of a show.’
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A spectacle is something that the boys definitely create. Head to toe in vintage ensembles, with more imagery going on than a game of Pictionary, Pete explains that the band’s style has very personal roots. Drawing inspiration from when Man Like Me were wee pygmies, by their own admission they dress like the ‘rude boys in the years above us at school used to dress. It’s all the clothes that you couldn’t afford, when we were 15’. With a heavy garage influence at the time that Man Like Me was born (Mc Ms dynamite used to also attend their school in Acland Burghley), Duffy creates a very vivid picture of how a 15 year old Man Like Me would look. ‘Everyone used to dress in the multi-coloured Ralph and Moschino, even if I could of been able to afford it, I wouldn’t of been big enough to get into the designs. You can find it all now for quite cheap.’ Cheap is definitely something that Man Like Me’s ensembles are not, choosing well cut suits and statement prints, for Pete it is about ‘Investing in something that is going to draw attention, putting on a show rather than rocking up in a standard pair of skinny jeans and white t shirt, actually making a bit of an effort’. Quietly making waves in the music industry since 2009 with the release of their game-changing track, London Town, the indisputable theme tune to the life of anyone who lives in London. The band’s sound, as you would expect, developed from something that was a lot more electro into something with a far more nostalgic; ‘It’s changed over the years, when we first put ‘Oh My Gosh’ out it was the myspace nu rave kind of thing going on the very trendy hipster. Since, especially with the IKEA, it’s got more your average Joe. Not someone so particularly niche market, everyday people.’ It seems that even the band themselves are aware of the epic metamorphosis from what Man Like Me were, to who they are now. While many trademark attributes remain, their music has become a lot more, dare we say it, mainstream, but does this bother Pete? ‘I don’t mind either way as long as people do like it; we admire bands when they get everyone involved and all kinds of people show up to their shows. Groups like Squeeze and 10 CC or songs like Come on Eileen; everyone knows that song. If we could get that, that would be amazing’, he explains further that this move in sound for the pending album has more to do with personal taste than industry pressure. ‘We haven’t consciously changed what we do, so I can’t tell you if we’ve changed from first album or not. Maybe we’ve got better at making songs, but the same idea of it kind of being bottom line pop music rather than serious electronic music or dance music is still there; it is light hearted music.’ For Man Like Me, the emphasis is and always will be on having fun, whilst many would describe their sound as genre-glossing, we prefer genre-redefining. ‘My parents like it and so do Johnny’s, rather than it being this ultra cool thing, you don’t cancel anyone out. When we do a single launch all our friends and family come along. We aren’t alienating anyone. I’m sure that you could go the other way and say it’s not that cool for that’. The group’s most recent single, Squeeze, was mixed by Mike Skinner. THE Mike Skinner we ask? Pete laughs, ‘He is so easy to chat to, he felt like an old friend in a weird way’. While we remain a little star struck, Pete seems passé about the whole thing. ‘It was hard looking at him and not thinking he was a mate, you feel like you know him so well because of his music, we were so young when Original Pirate came out.’ The partnership seems obvious, both The Streets and Man Like Me were born from an urban background. ‘We were really lucky, he heard the demo of Squeeze and that he was looking into mixing. He really liked it, sent over other tracks, and was like ‘Yeah, I want to mix the whole album’. What was it you said earlier about not being cool, Pete? Having ticked off so many achievements that spend years on band’s to-do lists; we’re talking festivals abroad (‘We played Outlet Festival in Croatia, that was amazing, one of the best festivals. Three times in Estonia, we always have fun out there. It’s freezing cold out in the winter, you always feel like your at the end of the world kinda thing, then you get to the town and its nice. Very similar to English culture, big drinkers.’) and playing a gig on the Eurostar (‘That was one of the weirdest gigs’), we have to wonder what is next for Man Like Me. ‘We’ve kind of left a big gap between albums, after that I feel like we’re in a good position to keep at it.’ A diplomatic answer, but after a bit more prying, Pete, ever the realist, considers that he is unsure of the future, ‘I really don’t know. Released another four albums, hopefully hanging in by skin of our teeth and maybe making a bit more money.’ From the screaming 14 year olds that ‘came with the IkEA advert ; we get it quite a lot now,’ to the highly anticipated new album, one thing is for sure – the Man Like Me boys are set to make real movements within the industry. So start digging out your dad’s vintage Moschino suit from the back of his wardrobe, if you want to be in their gang, you’re gonna need it. @MANLIKEME
Image courtesy of Murray Chalmers PR
Man Like Me, the poster boys of all things peculiar. With an album set for release, Peter Duffy and Johnny Langer are producing a mix tape of songs destined to redefine the term boy-band in an East 17 on acid kind of way. words by Faith Millward
“BY THEIR OWN ADMISSION MAN LIKE ME DRESS LIKE THE ‘RUDE BOYS IN THE YEARS ABOVE US AT SCHOOL USED TO DRESS. IT’S ALL THE CLOTHES THAT YOU COULDN’T AFFORD, WHEN WE WERE 15’’
BOBBY DAZZLER : 7
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Those of you eagle eyed twitter trend watchers may have noticed #soserge making a regular appearance in your feeds; #soserge is the latest lifestyle incentive from design house Serge De Nimes. Far from just another bland t-shirt brand, designer of Serge, Oliver Proudlock, talks to Bobby Dazzler about the birth of his second collection, denim-ing cars and becoming a rookie perfumier. Interview and text by Faith Millward. It’s a sweltering hot day in central London. Oxford Circus is, as usual, rammed with rickshaws and tourists. In between trying to negotiate our way around the overzealous teenage girls pouring out of Topshop and low flying pigeons, we manage to locate the venue for our interview with the brains behind the t shirt label Serge De Nimes. As we greet him, we note that Oliver Proudlock is wearing a Serge de Nimes vest; you know its good news when the designer is happy to wear his own garments. The outfit is of corse topped off with his trademark thick rimmed tortoise-shell glasses and a mass of blonde hair styled into a windswept combover; he is clean cut in James Dean kind of way. Serge De Nimes; it may be a bit of a tongue twister, but similar to a rubix cube when you get all the components in the correct order it suddenly creates the perfect fit. Derived from ‘Serge’ the word used to define the earliest form of denim that was originally made in Nîmes, France; well, we will let you do the math. The name is as fitting as his ancestry; the heir to a denim legacy spearheaded by his mother, his fashion credentials exceed him. Proudlock explains that in only a few hours he is flying to Malaga for the weekend, a well deserved break as he has been working intensely on getting his new collection up to scratch for its launch in September. Proudlock is a very well travelled man, from Australia to Sweden; every trip seems to have enlightened him of something that we with a less creative mind would overlook. It was however, a month long visit to Rio de janiero in Brazil that was a real life changer. Whilst he is well versed
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in trips to Brazil, the earliest being aged 16 attracted by the chaotic brilliance of the carnival, it has been visits in more recent years to the little known unpacified Fivella’s in the slums of the capital city that swoed the seed that would soon grow in Serge De Nimes, ‘most of them have been pacified where the police have gone in and they’ve pushed out all the drug lords because obviously previously fivellas were very dangerous all the drugs are rife there, they’re trying to clean it all out and there are only three left which aren’t pacified’ . Of these three unpacified Fivellas, Proudlock initiated an idea that 5% of profits from a selected number of tees within the first collection would go into a sponsorship within one of these Fivella’s. The business he has sponsored seems to fit him perfectly; choosing a small shop within the Fivella that specialises in small scale fashion production ‘They have this little sewing section, it’s a fashion section where they get all these kids to bring off cuts from the factories and sew up these little hats and little things like that so i donate money for sewing machines and textbooks, its perfect’. Understandably, it is also his mother, Lena or ‘The Queen of Denim’ as she is better known, that has also acted as a catalyst for the creation of Serge ‘she’s a big inspiration for me when it comes to being creative, with her being a photographer and she used to be in the fashion industry and she’s obsessed with style’. The iconic images that feature on the t shirts within the ‘carnival’ line are lifted from the photographic collection of Lena’s own time in Brazil in 1978. Even just scratching the surface of what inspires Proudlock, it is obvious to see that his mother has been a real driving force for his creative vision, ‘i’ve always been into denim and that’s why i chose the name for the brand but i wanted to start with something i’m familiar with which is t shirts. I wanted to establish the brand with one item and then branch out from there’. Proudlock explains that growing up under the reign of The Denim Queen was just as colourful as you would expect, ‘i lived with my mum in the countryside - it was just us two. She was pretty crazy, redecorating every week, and there were photo shoots, since a young age we were forced to be denim models and she’d take photos and we used to hate it. She still is now very creative, she’s taken a step back but she still has her own denim company which i one day hope to take on.’ While a mother-son collaboration for Serge has yet to be brought to fruition, Proudlock did team up with his mother in 2009, to create a much acclaimed patch-work denim car for Vogue, ‘I was with my mum for two weeks and I was so bored so I denimed it. I spent two weeks doing it and they put it in vogue. And at the launch (of Serge) i wanted to use it but called mum and she’d chucked it away’. The result of these two weeks of boredom indicates one thing; if these two very different generations of a fashion dynasty were
to collaborate, they would be a real force to be reckoned with. Alongside family, it is Proudlock’s native London that acts as a constant stimulus for his designs, ‘It’s the same with my artwork, i’m very much inspired by my surroundings and what’s going on, obviously i live in London so this is where everything is happening right now and in terms of fashion’. Although he is more Bluebird cafe than Cafe 1001, it is Proudlock’s awareness of just how diverse the capital’s style is that makes his collections so versatile and wearable; like the love child of Boy London and All Saints with a peppering of Acne; his tees are a direct reflection of what London is to him, put simply ‘It’s kind of hard to define (London’s style), i always find this when people ask me about serge i find it quite hard as well and let alone London, London is much bigger than Serge’. While Proudlock may consider London to be much bigger than Serge it is undeniable that the T shirt brand is expanding at a rapid rate. Following the success of Serge’s debut lines, the new collection dropped in early September, with a few changes to the original line up; ‘(we) Discontinued four of the images and brought in four more of the RIO collection’ . For September Serge is also keeping on a selecti¬¬¬¬on from the last collection, including the boy running and girl smoking t shirts as well as introducing a number of Logo tees; ‘The next collection is much bigger, there’s much more to it’. The understated consideration for detail in both the selection of colour-ways and precision of cuts, reflect Proudlock’s ardent passion for his label; from the new additions to the collection, a line of characteristic streetwear inspired T shirts depicting Kanye, Lil Wayne and Obama each personalised with trademark Proudlock attributes (the cross earring and statement tattoos), to the development of original pieces (The padlock tee has had a reboot) it is very clear that when it comes to t shirts, Proudlock knows his stuff. While Oliver is quite clearly the glue that keeps Serge De Nimes machine ticking over, Serge is a four strong team. Flanking Proudlock there is Diana and Talia who ‘take care of the day to day running of Serge’ and LCC graduate Josh Coombes, who is not only his right hand man but also one of the illustrators for a new line of tees within the up- coming collection. Utilising and nurturing new talents is something which Proudlock hopes to tap into on a larger scale in the future; ‘as well as producing our own designs, Serge De Nimes also plans to collaborate with other artists in the future, acting as a platform for up and coming talent’. It is clear that Proudlock has all the enthusiasm necessary to keep each collection fresh but as the old maxim says, slow and steady wins the race, he wants longevity for his brand so is keen to take it one step at a time ‘I want to expand it gradually, but now i’m getting so excited i have so many ideas i just want to get them out there.’ That doesn’t mean however, that he doesn’t have an end goal , although at the moment it is still early days Proudlock has big plans for the future of Serge De Nimes, ‘After the tees I want to make some sweatshirts, then move into denim, then caps, then rucksacks and then some jewellery. And i’ve actually got an aftershave.’
Oliver retrieves a tester of the scent from his jacket pocket; it is fresh and summery with a real nostalgic film, he explains that like his t shirts he intended it to be almost unisex. When it comes to perfumery the easy option would be to leave it in the hands of the noses but Proudlock assures us that he has been extremely hands on with production of the scent ‘We’re hopefully going to go to Graff in France and meet some of the noses there to develop the scent. At the moment I go down to the lab in Windsor every other week and we smell all the different things then we smell the coffee and it builds up gradually with each different note’ When talking about end games it would be prudent to suggest that Serge would have its own flagship store, we imagine a minimalist layout embellished with relics collected from Proudlock’s adventures, ‘That would be the dream, I think obviously I’d like to open the first one in London. I haven’t put much thought in to whereabouts exactly, it seems so far away’. To Proudlock, Serge represents a hub of possibility with great scope to encapsulate all that London, and even on a larger scale mens fashion, has to offer ‘We hope to create an artistic community that focuses on producing cutting edge clothes of the highest quality’. Proudlock’s lifestyle initiative, #soserge is just the starting point for this idea. Utilising his plentiful followers on Twitter he promotes his brand as a way of living, an ideal which is essential within his future plans for development and progression. With #soserge in place, a new layer of accessibility for the brand has been achieved. Primarily visually lead it suggests that when you buy a piece from Serge De Nimes, you are in essence almost buying a coveted golden ticket into the very workings of Proudlock’s inner creative circle; it is all inclusive, innovative and most importantly holds great style in high acclaim. Great style is something that Proudlock is well versed in, ‘i love Tom Ford’s style, he’s always so slick and immaculate’ while this may be a stark contrast from the bohemian artist, street-wear chic that Proudlock currently models, he explains that it is his global expeditions that have allowed him to develop a fluid yet overarching understanding of what warrants a good design house; ‘i love KCB.. Australia is big in the game in terms of t shirts and board shorts. I love Acne and i also love Ralph Lauren, i’ve always been a big fan of Ralph’. However, when it comes to his own collection he treads a little more carefully, striving for perfection in every avenue ‘i’m really indecisive which is a nightmare because it takes me ages to make final decisions, I just want everything to be perfect which is good in one way but in another way it kind of sucks’ . As our interview draws to a satisfying conclusion, Oliver shows us the new collection, clocking the iconic padlock tee still in pride of place he explains ‘The logo is actually my family crest, as you can see the family is very important to me, so I wanted the logo to be that – it’s very personal to me’ . Away from the business side of Serge De Nimes, the brand is sewn together by personal anecdotes, mapping out Proudlock’s life until this point; a drafted blueprint that may be colourful and full of character, but is one that is unfinished and only set to get more interesting. @SDNIMES
“WE HOPE TO CREATE AN ARTISTIC COMMUNITY THAT FOCUSES ON PRODUCING CUTTING EDGE CLOTHES OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY”.
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BOBBY DAZZLER’S SELECTION OF THE MOST PROMISING NEW STREETWEAR ARE BURSTING WITH PERSONALITY AND SIGNATURE STYLINGS.
PHOTOGRAPHY WILL PALMER-REEVES STYLING FAITH MILLWARD
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PREVIOUS PAGE: PRIMITIVE PRESS
“Primitive is a London-based graphic design and screenprinting studio specialising in art and apparel. As an independent company we hold a strong DIY ethic, through building our own equipment to only releasing small production runs. Our long-term obsession with geometric aesthetics has informed our identity and continues to take us on a journey through shape and pattern. The Primitive Press wearers are typically those that have an interest in art and design and can appreciate the handcrafted nature of the products. All our tees are hand screen-printed using processes such as colour blending, which means no two t-shirts are identical. By using such processes and only releasing limited editions we try to bring a sense of individuality back to the wearer. As for inspiration, it’s constant. Anywhere from 80s fashion prints, surrealism to tribal art, post punk record sleeves and contemporary graphic design - it’s endless. After studying illustration and surface design, Primitive Press was a natural progression of interests but particularly because we feel that there’s something special about small production runs and editions rather than those mass-produced. Having an item from a small edition holds a certain sense of value. Being one of only a limited number made makes us treasure it even more”. Words: Louis Vincent, Director of Primitive Press. www.primitivepress.wordpress.com
“Humdrum is a playful, colourful and nostalgic label. We like to explore the past, play with time periods and emulate these graphic identities in our own style - drawing inspiration from times when the ‘mundane’ or ‘humdrum’ represented real skills and value. Humdrum was created out of both love and necessity. Our goal is to bridge the gap between high-end streetwear labels (that are unaffordable to most) and dependable wardrobe favourites. The fashion market is saturated with ‘loud’ and heavily branded labels and they have many imitators. We offer an alternative with our graphics tees and in the near future collections of subtly branded, beautifully finished layers and outerwear. We enjoy offering the exclusivity that a smaller brand can generate. The Humdrum wearer is not one breed. We do not attract a specific demographic or type and pride ourselves on this. We do not aim to follow trends or be painfully cutting-edge. Instead we hope to be a producer of reliable ‘wardrobe favourites’ that our customers go back to again and again. The wide-range of graphical inspirations and styles inevitably attract a melting pot of supporters from all walks of life Our graphic style combines elements of pop-art, vintage artworks, commercial packaging, mascots and much more. Our debut collection of t-shirts; ‘Milkshakes and Mascots’ was influenced by 1950s Americana and direct inspirations came from trivial muses such as beer mats, travel posters and fast-food branding. As we prepare for our second collection, and expand our range of garments, we’re visiting many eras and styles to produce a range with hints of workwear and vintage tailoring fused with understated modern streetwear. We think the most important and over-looked qualities for any label are originality and consistency. Every good label that’s stuck around has a unique connection with its wearers and a consistent brand spirit. They combine their influences with exciting, fresh and independent design. The quality of the produced garment is paramount as it further represents the brands attention to detail. While Humdrum may explore different graphical styles from time to time, we aim to keep a recognisable, fun and dependable backbone to every collection”. Words: Tom Bleasdale, Director of HumDrum. www.humdrumapparel.com
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BELOW: ANTIQUE “Antique is a London based clothing company, fresh on the block. Established in 2010, we worked hard on setting up and released our first spring/summer collection in 2011. We take a lot of pride in our work, from the quality of the cotton to the feel of the print, right down to the packaging. Every last detail is finely tweaked to ensure the customer gets the quality and service they deserve. Once an order has been placed, we never just stick it in a jiffy bag and send it off. We neatly fold the garment in felt, wrap it in brown paper and give it an ink stamp with our logo so it really has that “Antique” feel when you receive it in the post. This process has now become part of our identity. We try to create designs with the intention of pleasing the majority. From streetwear to limited edition illustrated artwork, embroidery to snapbacks - we aim to please everyone as fashion is an ever changing market. We like to keep it as fresh and up to date as we can. Stick with what you know and what you like and try and give it a
twist; it’s hard to be original these days as quite a lot has already been done but we come up with an idea and make it into our own. Subtle placement of our logo is one of our trademarks. I [Henri] have been working on the road selling merchandise on tour for five years now. [Max Helyer] and I have both always had an eye for fashion. Two years ago, we sat down and thought ‘Why don’t we start up our own brand?’ So we did and here we are now. We kind of threw ourselves in the deep end as we had never done something like this before. It was a new project for us that really kicked off our ambition to create something special. It’s a new venture for us but the support and ever growing Antique family pushes us to work harder and really grow as a brand. We are now relishing the challenge”. Words: Henri Pickersgill, Director of Antique. www.becomeantique.com
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ABOVE: EXIT LEFT APPAREL
“Exit Left Apparel is an independent brand which stands for subversion of the high street. ELA is built upon the concept that you should be free to make fashion what you want, not what you’re told. Clothing shouldn’t be about the money that had to leave your bank account in order to wear a logo, it shouldn’t be about out doing others - it shouldn’t be about anything other than you. Exit Left Apparel appreciates the individual and, through the desire to see the world without boundaries, the individual joins our family. We believe fashion should be about wearing whatever the hell you want, well, you could say ELA is whatever the hell. Since its creation the brand has been proud of its own diversity, as such the base of customers is equally as diverse. Our friends such as Mikill Pane, Josh Osho, Rizzle Kicks, Futures, Tubelord and NRK are just some of the people we would like to shout out to for wearing and supporting Exit Left Apparel.
The Cristal Collection Part 1 drew a lot of influence from nostalgia. Memories of the 90s and places that inspired great people of history really brought ideas to the table which we had not considered before. We named the release the Cristal Collection because it encapsulated perfectly the concept of class and originality which was found through hip hop. For a long time Cristal was the drink of choice for the creatives influencing a movement and a generation. ELA is the clothing of choice for the modern day creatives bringing about a new renaissance. Other people have often made comparisons to French electro art and also acid art, both of which have an influence on elements of the design. Fusion is the best way to look at our designs aesthetically, however, because so many things are drawn in to what makes Exit Left Apparel different yet recognizable”. Words: Jonny Williams, Managing Proprietor at Exit Left Apparel www.exitleftapparel.co.uk
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LEFT: AUTHENTIC KLOVIN
“Founded in 2008, Authentic Klovin was established and developed in the heart of London. It consists of three team members and is unique in its vision. Authentic Klovin’s values are to produce fashionable timeless pieces that promote an authentic and fulfilling lifestyle. Our garments can be worn any season and all year round. Putting an emphasis on individual style and timeless classics, Authentic Klovin is about inspiring wearers to think outside of the box and encouraging people to be authentic within their garment choices. The Inspiration for the brand is drawn from everywhere within the capital city. Whether it’s music, art or poetry, we consider it a lifestyle rather than being solely a fashion brand. A celebrity I would love to see wearing the brand is Kanye West, as he has been known to be a trendsetter, but from this side of the pond I’d consider Tinie Tempah as our poster boy - after all, he was rated best-dressed artist in 2012”.
“SeventySeven is an independently owned & run UK Street/Casual label. Approaching our 10th year on the scene we design & produce music influenced apparel & strive to offer that something different from the High St. Retro & music style print based tees, crews & hoodies are backed up by custom made shirts, polos & our feature packed outerwear. The Seventyseven wearer is Anyone who wants to stand apart from the crowd, by wearing something not seen on every corner. A leader, not a follower! Our regular customers tend to be DJs, play in bands or are just into the music scene - regular goers of gigs/festivals & socialising with mates... basically anyone up for a good time! We think the top Streetwear brands should have their own personality - something unique that the wearer can identify with. With Seventyseven we’re all about having a good time. A lot of people just talk about cool branding but at the same time a label should be producing desirable garments that are functional but with that extra innovative twist that really makes you look the business. Music, art, film, lifestyle, friends, classic clothing - it is this sampling of the good times culture that really inspires us, keeping the ideas fresh and our output unique. Seventyseven started as a project between friends... could we capture our musical influences and present them in graphical form on our chosen canvas, the humble t-shirt? From these small beginnings the Seventyseven project gathered pace, with an ever evolving product range and collaborations with like minded creatives from around the globe. Currently our favourite piece has to be the ‘Varsity Jacket’ from our ‘Made in GB’ Heritage collection. It features contrast ribbing, antique snappers & heritage labelling but best of all its produced right here in the UK at a small factory just a few miles from HQ. Supporting UK manufacturing is something we’re passionate about and investing more and more in for next season.” Words: Iain Mitchell, Creative Director of Seventyseven www.seventyseven.co.uk
Words: Abdul Kamulegeya, Founder of Authentic Klovin. www.facebook.com/authenticklovin
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Photography: Will Palmer Reeves Stylist: Faith Millward Hair and Make up: Daniel Piggott-Stewart Fashion Assistant: Cheyenne Stewart-Flannery Models: Harrison Tea@ D1 models, Joe Culliane @ D1models
News that British-born comedy, The Inbetweeners has been airbrushed and remade for an American audience leaves Lore Oxford feeling patriotic. Social ineptitude is a vice that many pubescent boys are lumbered with throughout their years in education. Communicating with teachers, parents and even friends can become something of a hardship, the daunting prospect of awkward girl encounters aside. Not to mention the unintentional, yet somehow constant, public humiliation: shitting yourself in exams, hitting disabled women in the face with frisbees, relentless talks about your own mother’s vagina and throwing up in small children’s faces. Okay, so this is a heavily debauched and exaggerated account of what life as a teenage boy is like, but that’s the beauty of The Inbetweeners. Their only slightly embellished teen boy stereotypes make for a cast of characters so believable (albeit, unlucky), that these ridiculous situations become plausible. Starring previous unknowns, Simon Bird, James Buckley, Blake Harrison and Joe Thomas, the boys shot to the hearts of UK viewers in 2008, lovable via their self deprecating humour and familiar, colloquial conversation. The scripting encompasses the lives of British teens with a viciously entertaining humor, which is relatable on every level. The inevitable success of the series led to the release of The Inbetweeners Movie in 2011, which became the highest grossing comedy film in UK history. Given previous experience with successful British comedies, the announcement that both series and film were to be adapted for American audiences came as little shock. The involvement of Brit executive producers, Iain Morris and Damon Beesley offered a ray of hope that The Inbetweeners would not be completely mutilated, but many still begged the question: how exactly do you go about Americanizing the epitome of British youth? These doubts feel strangely familiar. When Shameless was adapted for American screens in 2011, many felt that the British grit embodied by the show would be lost
American adaptations of British comedies really are something of a long running tradition, though. While shows like Who Wants to be a Millionaire? and American Idol are originally British patents, which lack in cultural significance to the extent where they will fit comfortably in any society, there are far greater attempts at high-jacking UK television (many of which are so ludicrous that they didn’t even make it past the pilot). Does anybody remember The Rear Guard, America’s answer to Dad’s Army? No? That’s probably because it crumpled after its first episode, which was made in 1976. Other programmes, which were reinvented with similarly disastrous results, include Are You Being Served?, Blackadder and Fawlty Towers. Yet, in keeping with the afore-mentioned glory of Shameless, it’s important to remember that not all remakes fall to an onslaught of critique. The Office: An American Workplace has been wildly successful across the pond, eased along by Ricky Gervais, who created and starred in the original British version. Once again, however, an office work environment is familiar to any culture, and situational diversity may have a hand in the success of the programme in the US. Gervais, however, seems to have different ideas, claiming that American television is far superior to British. In an interview with The Big Issue Scotland, Gervais referred to the 2010 BAFTA winners as “the best of a bad bunch”, continuing to say, “With a few exceptions, the Americans seem to be ahead of the game.” Gervais wouldn’t be the only one to favour another nation’s humour over his own. Helen Mirren once voiced her preference for French humour over British when speaking to a French magazine. She described the latter as “harsher, more scathing and crueler,” before singling out Little Britain and Monty Python as being “far-fetched and over-the-top.” Perhaps the scathing, cruel qualities of British humour are what make it so difficult to translate into good television in other countries – without causing offense, that is. The idea of using racial stereotypes (Fawlty Towers ring any bells?) for the punch line in a joke, or abusing members of the public for the hilarity of their reaction (you’ve heard of Frankie Boyle?) to many seems unnecessary, and indeed, cruel. America in particular, whose television is so censored, is not inclined to shock or offend their audiences. As a result, British humour that does make it overseas will often be watered down to the point where it seems as though it has been lost in translation altogether.
'THE CHEESY, AMERICAN HIGH SCHOOL BACK DROP HAS TRANSFORMED AN ACCESSIBLE COMEDY CONCEPT INTO YET ANOTHER YAWN-WORTHY TEEN DRAMA.'
on an American audience. Matthew Gilbert, a reviewer for the Boston Globe claimed that the term “dysfunctional family” reminded him of “shows like Parenthood and Brothers & Sisters. Well preserved grandparents that regret screwing up their adult kids.” British fans asked: does a society where dysfunctional families live in perfect houses with airs and graces and expensive furniture have the social empathy necessary to appreciate Shameless? As it turned out, America did, and Shameless (US) has basked in two seasons of success, with a third in the pipeline. Shameless may have got it right, but that’s not to say some aren’t still dubious at the prospect of a whole new cast of American Inbetweeners. Cultural relevance aside, many have, predictably, picked up on America’s stereotypical resistance to British humour. While Alessandra Stanley speaks volumes of truth, writing for The New York Times, “British humor sometimes gets watered down in adaptation,” the comedy in The Inbetweeners runs close to the core of the series, and it could suffer accordingly to a touch of “watering down”. A trailer was recently released for the US adaptation of the series, which is set to air on MTV later this Summer. The all too familiar faces that comprise the UK cast have been replaced with a quartet of American teens whose combined careers so far amount to little more than a string of failed high school movies. While the trailer features a number of scenes from the original E4 series, the cheesy American high school back drop (back flipping cheerleaders, flexing jocks and an airbrushed finish) have transformed an accessible comedy concept into yet another yawnworthy teen drama - a genre already broadly covered by shows like Awkward in the sprawling wastelands of American television. One skeptical commenter wrote, “MTV strikes again... I smell another Skins disaster.” Indeed.
Actor and comedian Simon Pegg recently wrote an article for the Guardian, which elaborates on this point. Referring to America’s stereotypical humourlessness as a “cultural myth that just won’t die”, Pegg claims that American’s are much more emotionally open as a country; “They clap louder, cheer harder and empathise more unconditionally.” It is because of this openness that Americans do not “immediately register the need to bury emotion under humour”. In Britain, American sitcom Friends averaged at 2.6 million viewers every episode during the time it was running, and despite being axed by Channel 4, is still one of Comedy Central’s most popular programmes to date. While British viewers will comfortably lounge around watching American television, every UK patent America takes it’s fancy to has to be reinvented with an appropriately all American cast and the same script with a couple of the most vulgar scenes torn out. Is Britain’s approach to humour and culture really so dark? Is the US so disapproving of British comedy that the only way to safely sensor it is to wipe the slate clean and start again from scratch? What Britain mistakes for a poor sense of humour could be nothing more than an assurance that nothing too disturbed finds its way back to an American audience. Either way, humour is subjective, and highly environmental. If you type “British and American Television” into google.com you will find a thousand American blogs challenging anybody to question the previously unquestioned “awesomeness” of American television, and a thousand British blogs that would defend British comedy to the death. Not to mention the forums where citizens of both the UK and US can get together for the obligatory online debate. Although it’s probably best to agree to disagree, it’s safe to say, if nothing else, that British humour is an acquired taste.
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ON SOCIETY: “THINK ABOUT A MATERNITY
WARD, WHEN ALL THOSE BABIES ARE BORN, THEY’RE ALL JUST PINK, WRINKLED AND SCREAMING AND SHITTING EVERYWHERE, THEY’RE ALL EXACTLY THE SAME. NONE OF THEM ARE BORN TO BE RAPISTS AND MURDERERS AND NONE OF THEM ARE BORN AS PRIME MINISTERS AND LAWYERS; IT’S THE PATH AND THEIR SURROUNDINGS THAT SHAPE THEM INTO THAT”
When Ed Skrein enters the hip, re-vamped Hackney café for our interview, not a single coffee connoisseur looks up from their MacBooks. It appears his secret to keeping under the radar isn’t oversized sunglasses or hiding behind a grande caramel frappuccino. His ‘invisibility cloak’ as it were, is his lack of airs and graces... and maybe the fact that he is the newest face on the acting scene. With his self-assured swagger, shaven head and impressive height (six foot one, but who’s counting?) Skrein could easily be perceived as the real-life version of the rough and ready roles he has played in crime thrillers Piggy and Plan B’s IIl Manors. His characters in both films feature him with acute similarity – think extremely violent, thug-like and with a penchant for dealing drugs, aka the kind of person your grandmother would list at the top of her neighborhood watch. “People when they meet me are like, ‘Oh right, you’re nice, man,’” he laughs. “I’m not really those guys I play. If I was, I’d be on Romford Road pimping girls out and selling babies.” Following his success in Ill Manors, Skrein has been added to the cast of series three of HBO’s hit series, Game of Thrones, playing Daario Captain of the Stormcrows. Deviating away from the aforementioned urban skinhead thuggish stereotype, Daario is billed as a handsome but harsh sea captain (with notable blue hair and beard); a role that is likely to see Skrein’s notoriety and popularity sky rocket.
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Skrein’s best friend, rapper and sometime actor Plan B (formally known as Ben Drew) directed Ill Manors, which some might say gave Skrein an unfair advantage when casting the character of Ed. Upon meeting Skrein, however, it becomes apparent that he was made for the role, and vice-versa. The reason being that both he and the film are incredibly observant of inner city poverty, and in particular, that which has been swept under the carpet of the recent Great British Olympics. “It was nice to be making a film about us essentially,” he says relaxing in his chair. “Even if we are not those exact characters, it could be about people we know, those we’ve grown up with and the streets that we’ve grown up in.” While it is said that you shouldn’t mix work and pleasure, it has been Skrein and Drew’s close friendship that has successfully promoted both their careers. Plotting their relationship through teenage years spent at Drew’s studio on Holloway Road, juggling university and dreams of musical mastery (or even further back to the community centre, Tribal Tree in Camden, where they first met), their bond can only be described as ‘brothers from other mothers’. “People find us quite difficult when we work together,” Skrein explains. “We have to try and be diplomatic because we will be as hard on other people as we will be on ourselves.” Far from a sign of arrogance, this perception is drawn simply from blind dedication to his work. “I look at everyone and everything in the same critical way that I do myself, even if I love something. It’s still a learning curve in terms of making sure that I am sensitive to other people’s feelings and not too hard or too good on myself.” “Whatever I do is done wholeheartedly, I go all the way into it. I don’t just dip my toes in, I go head first with tunnel vision.” With such a dedicated attitude and critical outlook on himself it must be hard to find a comfortable medium. So what makes Ed happy? Quite simply, “People telling me that they like something I’ve done. When I know that I’ve done something properly or when I come home and am like, ‘I did that wholeheartedly and I’m really proud of that’, that’s what makes me tick”.
Photography by Tracer Ital for Bobby Dazzler
‘I remember that guy before he made it big’. If you’ve never thought this, you’re about to now. Bobby Dazzler catches up with Ed Skrein. The self-taught, streetwise-beyond-his-years actor who is lacking any Ill Manors. Interview and text by Daniel Piggott-Stewart and Faith Millward.
Photography by Tracer Ital for Bobby Dazzler
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Skrein’s dedication to acting could be seen as a borderline psychological study. To get into the mindset of each character he plays, he claims to practice a “wiring ritual”. Far from the kind you’d find at your nearest electricians’ convention, it involves “going beyond the words, forgetting the script and the lines and actually going into the thinking of the person”. Furthermore, he believes that each role is a character already in us all. “We each have those sides in us whether we admit it or not. The hardest bastard you’ll ever meet might not admit that he sometimes dreams about a domestic life with a couple of kids and cooking for the missus. Just like the nicest geezer will never admit that he has horrible sexual fantasies about fucking strangling women, y’know?” He continues, “When you know how this person is wired, or how you think they are, then it’s easy. I might not be able to be exactly you, but I could do it with empathy and relate to it.” Skrein reflects on how visually many of the scenes in Ill Manors incorporate his childhood haunts, such as the end of Drew’s mother’s road where, as a youth, he scratched up his best friend’s car while taking it for a spin. Furthermore, Skrein hints at the film being moderately biographical, “The intention was to rep us properly and show people what the fuck goes on and how fucked up it really is,” he says passionately. “People we know never left the area and it’s still bad. Ill Manors is like a window into it all.” The film’s reviews were mixed. While many praised its director’s ability to spotlight talented but mostly unknown actors while unleashing a gritty, factual representation of urban London, others challenged it as being “apathetical”. The modern day encyclopedia for web-enthusiasts, The Daily Mail, went as far as to call it “a pathetic parade of British gangster cliches cobbled together with no discernible artistry or point”. Skrein’s response? “It’s been amazing that we’ve been in a position to raise and talk about a lot of issues. But at
of his own experiences, Skrein explains that if he could brainwash one thing into the youth of our generation, it would be unwavering self belief – something that he believes will lead people to have all-round motivation to better themselves. “It’s the one thing I’ve never lacked. I’ve never needed other people to tell me, you can do this. In fact, when people say that to me it kind of pisses me off like, ‘Oh you don’t think I can do this myself? I fucking know I can do this. Watch me’”. Admitting that he despairs at the current lethargy of an “I can’t do that, I won’t be good at that, how do I do that?” mentality, Skrein is the definitive poster boy for the reformation of “I’ll give it a go, I’ll try my hardest and learn from it. I’m not good now but I will be”. Giving it a go is something that Skrein has definitely done. It seems the thrill of starting and mastering something is that which motivates Skrein to deviate between callings so fearlessly. “If you’ve got that stubborn selfbelief of I’m going to do this wholeheartedly and whatever happens, happens; you’ve got nothing to lose.” Telling of his observant and down to earth nature, the best part of the Ill Manors premiere for Ed was the suit he was loaned for the evening from fashion house, Duchamp. “It was beautiful wasn’t it? They smashed it, it was just beautiful. Slim cut, the one button and a beautiful blue. I’m thankful I didn’t have to go there in like my dad’s suit,” he jokes. Away from premiere, press junkets and his characters in films however, Skrein’s style is a direct reflection of who he is. “I was heavily influenced by hip-hop and skate boarding fashion when I was in my teens. I’d say it’s just become a tailored version of that,” he admits pointing the navy, freshly scrubbed Nike Airs that have recently survived the mud of Hackney weekend. “I’ve always been just trainer-crazy. I’ve got so many pairs of trainers at home.”
ON FAME: “I’D RATHER PARTY SOMEWHERE AWAY FROM
THE CAMERAS, IN SOME SHITTY LITTLE IRISH PUB IN DALSTON, WHERE NO ONE KNOWS US AND WE CAN JUST GET PISSED ON JACK DANIEL’S”
the same time, forget all the shit and watch the fucking film,” he says poignantly. “Don’t try to over-conceptualise this and over-intellectualize and politicize that, ‘cos while there are strong political and social connotations, ultimately it was made to be a piece of art”.
Photography by Tracer Ital for Bobby Dazzler
The 29 year old actor has always had an affinity with the arts, having graduated with a degree in fine art from Central St Martins. “I probably didn’t get as much out of it as I could have ‘cos I was always thinking about music,” he says referring to his alter-ego, MC Skrein, whose achievements to date include regular gigs at Glastonbury Festival, collaborating with Jehst, Plan B, Skinnyman and Task Force, touring Europe and featuring on the film score for AdULTHOOD. “It probably took me a year even to embrace and enjoy uni life. It was mad with so many different people, proper indie heads and goths... and then there was me, this geezer in the middle who was just some spotty teenager in his tracksuit bottoms and a vest looking like he shouldn’t be there.” He continues, “If I’m not creatively exploring stuff then I might as well just die now. I might as just get it over with really, ‘cos I feel like that’s the only thing that keeps me positive and happy and able to do everything out of the creative side.” It becomes obvious during our interview that Skrein envelopes his creative outlets with unwavering focus and determination. At one stage, he recalls the Ill Manors premiere and after-party and how his cast members poked fun at him for being “so serious”. “I was just over it and felt like this film ain’t about us anymore. At the risk of sounding ungracious and ungrateful, I was just focused and mentally already on my next project.” As well as being heavily involved with acting, Skrein has also coached athletics and set up his own swimming school for young children, while teaching at MCing courses and community projects. “I love the passing on skills in sports, I love the whole ethos of sports and getting people healthy. Giving kids like a good start in life, giving them a foundation that they can build on so when they turn 16 and start smoking, drinking and eating McDonalds, then at least they have some structure to hang it around. It’s all about giving them life skills, man.”
Skrein is really enthused by the developments in menswear fashion, impressed that brands are now producing wearable but interesting garments instead of bland staples. “We used to fold up our jeans when we were kids, now I can buy them like that. I love that, we used to wear our trousers halfway down our arse, I don’t need to now. I’ve got a low crotch and low cut. I’m really excited by that.” While you may not have seen him shoe-horned into the front rows at the men’s collections, it’s not just streetwear like Carhaart, Adidas or Nike that he has a penchant for; professing a long-running admiration for designers such as Vivienne Westwood (“When she gets it right, she gets it so right”). Confirming that the slim-fit denim shirt he is currently wearing is from Armani, paired with some Nike Airs and loose fitting jeans, his look is more Vanilla Ice than ice tea at the Wolsley. “I like mixing it with proper designers, but never going fully one way or the other. So you could walk through Ridley Road Market and hang with all the boys in Dalston or I could go to Soho into a meeting with a top director but not walk in there looking scruffy. It’s the aim anyway”. On the eve of Ill Manors’ DVD release and the pending third series of Game of Thrones, it is undeniable that as a creative who has had no acting training, Ed has come so far so fast; his talent needs no introduction. “It’s a good start. It’s a lot about luck, and I have been lucky with what I’ve got so far.” Ever the realist, he simply credits his success, past and present, to his strong self-belief and hunger for personal growth. “Fortune only got me in the position to do it, I still could’ve fucked everything up. All we try and do is things that we think that we can do”. While he may have his fingers in a lot of pies, so to speak, it is the aforementioned acting that he is honing in on, “I think some people who were in Ill Manors were happy that they made it into Ill Manors. I’m like fuck that, it’s only the start, like literally the prelude”.
As the interview draws to a close, an over-zealous and very intoxicated Arsenal fan (with an official supporter’s mug full of rum), materialises from the depths of a Dalston boozer to worship at the altar of Mr Skrein. Mistaking him for 80s Bros singer, Matt Goss and consequently insisting on a rudimentary photograph It is no secret that at age 17 Skrein was involved in a brutal stabbing. Unlike many opportunity, it almost seems to be a sign of things to come for this East Londoner. before him however, Skrein made the decision to turn his life around by applying From humble beginnings to HBO the future is very bright, but Skrein of course takes whatever anger arose from the incident to more beneficial outlets. In the wake it all in his stride. BOBBY DAZZLER : 23
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A suit is for life, not just for Christmas. Button up this Autumn with Bobby Dazzler’s best in formalwear.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHER FIELDS STYLING BY FAITH MILLWARD
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PREVOUS PAGE: Wine gin suit by Merc, classic plain tie by French connection, white slim-fit shirt and bond black belt by Thomas Pink, Socks by Calvin Klein, burgundy alligator loafers by Dune. THIS PAGE: Silver sin suit and albin white shirt by Merc, moore neat woven tie by Thomas Pink, black leather shoes by Dune. NEXT PAGE: Checked tweed blazer by Beyond Retro, ivory woven silk pocket square by Thomas pink, white shirt by Simon Carter.
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(same boy as number 2, Joe Thompson far right) Silver gin suit and white shirt by Merc, moore neat woven tie and mother of pearl cufflinks by Thomas Pink, black leather shoes by Dune, (far left) Dogtooth suit by Pretty Green, 70S white poplin shirt by French Connection, ivory woven silk pocket square by Thomas Pink, green silk tie by French Connection, brown leather shoes by Dune, (center) blue tailored suit by ASOS, imperial 170s white shirt and deep red velvet bow tie by Thomas Pink, shoes modelâ€™s own.
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THIS PAGE: Beige aran knit high neck sweater, tweed suit jacket and dark grey twill suit trousers all by Beyond Retro, pink woven silk pocket square by Thomas Pink, sunglasses by Ray-Ban at Rokit, leather and suede shoes by Dune. NEXT PAGE: Rander black roll-neck by Merc, pinstriped check suit by Beyond Retro, white woven silk pocket square by Thomas Pink, Sunglasses by Ray-Ban at Rokit.
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Blue tailored suit by ASOS, imperial 170s white shirt, deep red velvet bow tie and Navy Button link classic cufflinks by Thomas Pink, croc effect briefcase by Rokit, shoes modelâ€™s own.
Rude boy hat by Merc, blue slim fit shirt, deep red velvet bow tie and silver arm bands by Thomas pink, check waistcoat and blue lace up brogues by ASOS, black ultra skinny smart trousers by Topman, black socks by Calvin Klein.
Stylist: Faith Millward Fashion Co-Ordinator: Daniel Piggott Stewart Hair and Make Up: Gareth Smith Hair and Make up assistant: Josh Blom Fashion assistant: Daniel Nebel Photographer: Christopher Fields Photographers assistant: Jorge Perez Ortis Models: Ryan Darvill & Joe Thompson both@ AMCK, Josh weekes & Peter David Cairns both @ D1 Models, Alfie Green @ Select
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Ricki wears a herringbone weave pastel pink shirt by Unconditional.
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A ONE STOP SHOP FOR ALL YOUR NEEDS: RETAIL AT ITS FINEST.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TRACER ITAL STYLING BY KHRIS JOHNSON
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pire, Jack wears white tee by Eastie Em os by Percival. braces by H&M & fawn chord chin
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Jack wears white tee by Eastie Empire, braces by H&M & fawn chord chinos by Percival, and shoes by Pointer. OPPOSITE PAGE: Ricki wears tweed jacket by Percival, grey marl tee and black jeans both Crooks & Castles, and black shoes by Kurt Geiger. BD Issue Zero E.indd 43
THIS PAGE: Jack wears white self-stripe shirt by Unconditional. OPPOSITE PAGE: Ricki wears navy cordouroy blazer with matching chinos and pocket square by Eastie Empire, white tee by Rude Riders and watch by Kennett. BD Issue Zero E.indd 44
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Felt and leather varsity jacket by The Duffer St George, short sleeve braces tee by Unconditional THGIS PAGE: Tee by Crooks and Castles, checked shirt by Marshall Artist, cord trousers by Eastie Empire Clothing, shoes by Kurt Geiger BD Issue Zero E.indd 47
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PREVIOUS PAGE: Coral set blazer and trousers by ASOS THIS PAGE: Palm print blazer and blue chino trousers by ASOS, hat by Bailey and Hollywood at Rokit
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Red check shirt by Marshall Artist, ED-71 slim selvage drifter wash jeans by Edwin, brown leather loafers by Topman
Ricki and Jack ran amok at the Convenience Store in Archway. Styling: Khris Johnson Fashion Co-ordinators: Daniel Piggott Stewart and Faith Millward Hair and Make up by Caterina Maiolini Photographer: Tracer Ital Fashion Assistant: Sammy Small Models: Jack Wright @D1 models, Ricki Hall @ Nevs With special thanks to the Archway Convenience store
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KNOCK ‘EM DEAD THIS AUTUMN WITH BOBBY DAZZLER’S PICK OF INVESTMENT UNDIES.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TRACER ITAL HAIR AND MAKE-UP BY DANIEL PIGGOTT - STEWART
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Hibiscus woven underpant by Zimmerli BOBBY DAZZLER : 53
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Blue and white stripe broadcloth boxer shorts by Brooks Brothers
culparchici dolloriatur, occusam dolore pratur, sequiat que et faccusam asit dia 54 : BOBBY DAZZLER quibusaest optatur re enet voloreicia
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Classic white boxer short by Sunspel
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Black cotton boxer trunk by James Tudor
White Cotton knit underpant Zimmerli 58 : BOBBY DAZZLER
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African print boxer shorts by Ohema Ohene BOBBY DAZZLER : 59
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Our boys packed a punch at Islington Boxing Club, with the kind permission of Lenny Hagland. PHOTOGRAPHER: Tracer Ital HAIR AND MAKE UP: Daniel Piggott-Stewart FASHION COORDINATOR: Faith Millward MODELS: Billy Eldridge & Michael Morgan both @ D1 models BOBBY DAZZLER : 61
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Hailing from the land of the sauce (that’s Worcestershire for those not well-versed in condiments) is a Bobby Dazzler favourite – enter the room music mogul, Project Alfie. Interview and text by Daniel Piggott-Stewart.
to be there in New York with hip-hop guys doing my thing. It was just like somebody pinch me, you know?” He continues, “It’s all about learning and about bettering yourself. You only do that being around people who have experience.” A person with extensive experience, who has added further credibility to both of Project Alfie’s music videos, is Paul Gardner of JJ Stereo – a visual director whose impressive portfolio includes videos for Calvin Harris, Labrinth and Plan B.
Meeting someone with an unusual name can bring about a certain awkwardness when being first introduced, as I discovered during my initial meeting with erm... Mr Project Alfie? Project? “Yeah, don’t call me Project, that would be weird. ‘When I first met Project,’” he laughs, expertly mimicking my voice while typing on an imaginary computer. “Call me Alfie.”
Testament to his singing ability is the fact that Alfie was the only unsigned artist featured on both albums ‘R&B Collection 2012’ and ‘Massive R&B 2012’. Furthermore, his single ‘Beggin’’ was the most downloaded track from the former during its first week. “Music has the power to make people happy and sad,” he says. “If you have been given the ability or have got the chance to do that, you should really embrace it.” Alfie’s chance came during his first week of music college when he was just 19. “I was given an audition for a big management company... something that was really out of my comfort zone,” he explains, “but I looked at it as an opportunity nonetheless.” Alfie was given the wrong time and subsequently arrived late for the audition, however being the socially charismatic creature that he is, took it upon himself to speak with two people outside who had got through. “I got on really well with them and there came a point where I started singing.” It was in that instant that Alfie was then scouted by a musical sound-hound who was passing by. He concludes, “That same guy has been my manager for the last six years.”
It doesn’t take a visit from Hercule Poirot to work out who inspires the twenty-five year old’s style. With a meticulous eye for well-constructed tailoring and preciselytrained enviable hair, Alfie bears an uncanny resemblance to Michael Caine’s iconic 1966 character of the same name. “I was a bachelor and I loved Alfie’s style,” he says at our meeting place: The Carpenter’s Arms on Tottenham Court Road. “So I kind of started dressing like this the whole time and it just became really natural.” While his look is precise in its origin, his musical inspirations are more varied. “I was growing up listening to Stevie Wonder, Donny Hathaway, Michael Jackson and Sinatra,” he says enthusiastically, “whoever it was, it was always exciting.” The self-styled “UK soul boy” is also a big fan of hip-hop, citing Jay-Z, Drake, Kanye and Andre 3000 as the male muses for his collaborative mixtape released in 2011. His unique crafting of the two genres met critical acclaim in the same year, with global musical mastermind DJ Semtex commenting, “Very few people get this balance right, but he’s pulled it off. A great debut.” His songs included uniquely spun audio collaborations with ‘Still D.R.E.’ with Dr Dre, ‘Family Business’ with Kanye West and ‘Perfect’ with Outkast – generating free online downloads of over 26,000. Disclosing his genuine love for rap, Alfie insists he wasn’t trying to “better them” but work them in his own way. Following in the footsteps of Michael Caine’s character, Alfie also has an appreciation for the ladies. “Diane Warren is probably one of the greatest songwriters of all time,” he declares when questioned about his favourite female artists. “Ella Fitzgerald, Nina Simone, Billie Holiday, Amy Winehouse... the list goes on for me.” Alfie’s professional encounter with Winehouse’s best friend, Tyler James, has extended his personal appreciation for the Back to Black songstress. “He’s an amazing talent, a lovely guy and obviously Amy’s very good friend. I love her music, so to work with her friends you feel like you have a bit of an understanding of her, which is very very sad.” He continues, “I think she was someone who loved the originals, the classics, like myself and she did it in her own way.” Following the success of his mixtape, Project Alfie debuted ‘Beggin’’ and then ‘Brief Encounter’ – two original singles which showcase Alfie’s impressive vocal range against the backdrop of urban London. “I love working in New York but the UK is the centre of everything creative,” he asserts patriotically. It would seem that New York also loves him, after being invited to work with hip hop heavyweights The Hitmen aka Mary J Blige, Nas, Jay-Z and Notorious BIG. “It was such a privilege just
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At this point in his career, Alfie lacks arrogance. When questioned about what advice he would give to aspiring singers, there is no malice in his words nor feeling of competitiveness. “If you want to be a singer, or a guitarist or songwriter, learn your craft. Go and look at the people who came before you and who have done it really well.” Soon we reach a poignant moment in the interview where it is clear that Alfie is wise beyond his years. “Don’t ever think you’re bigger than the song or bigger than the music, because if you do then you won’t last the chorus.” The moment I heard this I admit being dumbfounded. A Google search of this quote was later conducted on my behalf to see if it had been ‘lifted’ or ‘borrowed’. They are Alfie’s own words and are nonetheless very insightful ones. Project Alfie’s future is bright. In October this year, he is releasing a highly anticipated debut EP which he has been working on in Brooklyn with some “young hip-hop producers from Chicago and New York.” When asked about what it will contain, Alfie acts coy. “I have always wanted to do something that’s timeless,” he comments, “even if I wrote one song that lasted beyond my own existence, that would be pretty great.” While the ‘Alfie’ part of his stage name is inspired by the cult classic, ‘Project’ has more personal significance. “It’s not just one man who makes the music,” he asserts modestly. “It takes your management, your producer, your friends, the people that support you... everyone.” While his presence is growing prominently within the music industry, it’s refreshing to see his ego hasn’t grown with it. twitter.com/projectalfie
Photography courtesy of Dan Humphreys
“DON’T EVER THINK YOU’RE BIGGER THAN THE SONG OR THE MUSIC, BECAUSE IF YOU DO THEN YOU WON’T LAST THE CHORUS.” BOBBY DAZZLER : 63
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TO TOSS OR NOT TO TOSS, THAT IS THE QUESTION.
INSTAGRAM PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL NEBEL STYLING DANIEL PIGGOTT STEWART
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BEIGE DUNKS BY NIKE
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BROWN DUNK HI-TOPS BY NIKE
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HI-TOPS BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FOR PUMA
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RED SKYTOPS BY SUPRA
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WHITE HI-TOP TRAINERS BY DUFFER ST GEORGE
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DETACHABLE HI-TOPS BY OHEMA OHEME
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HI-TOPS BY VANS
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NAVY PLIMSOLLS BY POINTER
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When Nike announced that they had signed a young, relatively unproven marketing commodity to a five-year endorsement contract in 1984, nothing could have prepared the world for what was to come. As ‘the Nike guy who could fly’ with a signature line of Nike Air trainers attached to his floating feet, NBA star Michael Jordan impacted the globe. Nike Air fever became airborne. The Nike Air Jordan 1 transformed the way people viewed athletic trainers. From the zesty colour-ways to the unique Michael Jordan silhouette logo (which became an iconic symbol in itself), a new movement was born. Nike’s famous trademark, combined with the style and comfort of the trainers, gave NBA stars the belief that they could play better and jump higher - while kids from every background embraced the effortless cool of a brand that was now officially associated with one of the world’s greatest sportsmen.
The Nike Air Jordan of 2012 still holds many of the traditional values of the very first model, with each prominently focused on its athleticism. The styling is bold and youthful, while the high performance is born out of its well-constructed outer shell - a seemingly perfect coupling that has enabled the Air Jordan to remain a consistent sporting product on the court, and not simply just a stylish fashion accessory. The Jordan effect of the mid 80s has not waned in the twenty-eight years since they first appeared. The variation of styles and hundreds of colours released since 1984 have made the Air Jordan the most successful and prominent trainer of all time. A part of modern culture, the Air Jordan is a staple product etched into our brains as something synonymous with quality, tradition, and success. Words by Yohance Lewis.
A LIFETIME OF STYLE AND FUNCTIONALITY
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Some men argue that the secret to looking good is simply Marlboro lights, whiskey, cocaine and women. Until these results come back as conclusive, the team at Bobby Dazzler have devised a more scientific approach. Text by Daniel Piggott - Stewart
Eyebrows: There should be two of them. If you resemble the angry baby from the Simpsons (or his cousin, Burt from Sesame Street), drop the weed-wacker and invest in a pair of tweezers. Apply the same application to plucking that you would to fucking: be precise and keep it local (i.e. only in the middle). We recommend investing in a slanted pair by Tweezerman. Ear Hair: Ear we go again. If it looks like you have spiders nesting in your ears and no one has told you, it’s because you couldn’t hear them. Get them plucked. Same goes for nasal hair and any hair growing on the tip of your hooter. We don’t want to start a moral panic but it happens. Check your mirror now, you Gruffalo, you. Acne: Spot the difference. While we have laughed at the app which caused us to look like a pizza-faced geeks, some days we don’t need an app. Step away from the toothpaste - that only works with the fluoride-free types. When eruptions occur, strike when the iron is hot and pinpoint the root of the problem. Blemishes on the forehead (particularly the kind which don’t have whiteheads and are just on top of the surface) are often related to dehydration - so drink up. Blemishes and blackheads on the nose and cheeks are most often caused by dirt, excess oil production and generally not washing your face (see our 1-2-3 step guide below to combat this). Finally, the chin area is linked to hormones, so get your Enya on and chill the fuck out. Lips: Don’t get lippy with us, sweetheart. Guaranteed to be one of the most active but neglected parts of your face. Pucker up daily with lip balm to prevent all kinds of nasty - namely chapped lips, cracked lips and cold sores. Extra points if you use one with SPF protection. Shaving: Day or night, just do it right. It’s best to shave your face straight after a shower, as this is when the hair follicles have softened. Take an exfoliator (we highly recommend Kiehl’s Facial Fuel Energising Scrub) and gently rub it into your chin-weave. Rinse with warm water. Take your shaving cream or oil, we’re talking King of Shaves not the vegetable kind, and massage well into your Gandalf. Take your as-new-as-possible-blade and shave in short, slow strokes - you’re not at a kebab house. Rinse well again. Forget the alcohol saturated old-spice aftershave your grandfather used, and invest in an after-balm to sooth the skin and prevent ingrown hairs. Eyes: Keep ‘em peeled. Prevent your eye area from matching your testicles by dabbing a specialised eye cream to the corners each night (we approve of Age Defence for Eyes by Clinique for men) . Failing that, just smile. Constantly. Because creases around the eyes while smiling is a sign of genuine joy. 3 Step Skincare Routine: Mandatory: Cleanser. We recommend cleansing your face once a day, preferably at night before bed. Water alone followed by moisturiser should suffice for your morning cleansing routine.
ILLUSTRATION: Jack Byne
Occasional: Exfoliator. Gently rub onto face 1-3 times a week to prevent reptiletough, hangover skin and remove trapped dirt, oil and pollution. Excessive use has its consequences, with you risking damage to the skin (burnt, red faced man is not a good look) and causing the sebaceous glads to produce excess oil. Mandatory: Moisturiser. Aim for a light, oil-free type with SPF of at least 15 for day time - any less and you might as well be rubbing urea onto your face. Use an oilfree, night-time moisturiser for... you guessed it, night time.
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ILLUSTRATION: Jack Byne
What are you most proud about? I’m unique darling, I urge you to find a bag that is equal in splendour and practicality. My guardians have ensured I was launched into the world with a quality finish, from my perfectly coiffed cowhide to my fun faux fur. My personality and colour cannot be matched.
Bobby Dazzler’s ad page for garments that want to find a home. Step forward Nasir Mazhar’s Fun Fur and Dalmatian Mini Backpack – the ultimate in outlandish statement man-ccessories.
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When was your last relationship and how long did it last? I’m a relationship virgin, I’m not ashamed to admit it. I still dream of a percival-clad Prince Charming caressing my love handles. My dream partner shouldn’t be the jealous type, as my countless admirers, both male and female, could spell the beginning of the end for our relationship.
Who is your ideal man? I like a man with big, strong hands so he can haul me over the threshold of our new abode. He also has to be tidy as I can’t stand mess; I’m quite a small girl and can’t abode finding crumbs in my nooks and crannies. Most importantly, I want a man without excessive baggage because I’m quite selfish and love to be adored. What is your perfect weekend? Don’t judge a bag by its fur. I may appear seem exotic but I was really born and bred in London, so the furthest I’ve ventured is to the Budgens across the road. At heart, I am a city lass and am itching for an airing in the big smoke – ideally a weekend on Primrose Hill getting grass stains on my spotty bits.
Do you follow politics? I’m an avid follower of politics; that David Cameron is a dish. I would be a much more fashionable companion than his current squeeze (see ya later, Samantha). Have you heard about the government’s plans to snoop on our personals via the internet? I would hate for them to see how available I’ve made myself online. But don’t judge me, all the celebrities are doing it. What is your favourite season? I like early evening autumn strolls where the setting sun can glint off my razor sharp curves - I may have bodywork as fake as the girls from TOWIE, but I definitely have more personality. Ms fun-fur dalmatian backpack is available for dates, and can be found at Opening Ceremony, Covent Garden.
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LONDON-BASED DESIGNER C.NEWING PROVIDES KNITTED ARMOUR FOR THE URBAN EXTROVERT.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TRACER ITAL STYLING BY FAITH MILLWARD
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TRACER ITAL STYLIST: FAITH MILLWARD
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IMAGE 1 & 2 Stop sign jumper and punchcard joggers by C.Newing, rucksack by Topman, balaclava stylist’s own. IMAGE 4 Long knit jumper by C.Newing, C-91 snapback by City Hunter. IMAGE 5 Punchcard jump suit by C.Newing, hoodie model’s own, rucksack by Topman, C-91 snapback by City Hunter. IMAGE 6 Road sign jumper and road sign joggers by C.Newing. IMAGE 7 Oversized puffer jacket with fringe trim hood by C.Newing. IMAGE 8 Felted varsity jacket by C.Newing. IMAGE 9 Balaclava stylist’s own, baller vest customised by C.Newing. IMAGE 10 Balaclava stylist’s own, road sign joggers by C.Newing, baller vest customised by C.Newing. BIMAGE 11 aller vest customised by C.Newing
Photographer and Post Production: Tracer Ital Stylist: Faith Millward Hair and Make up: Daniel Piggott - Stewart Photographers Assistant: Karl Lake Models: David Valensi @ AMCK, Alex Thomas @ AMCK, Fletcher Harrington & Pedro Rebelo @ D1models. 88 : BOBBY DAZZLER
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Brave the cold this winter with the most obvious addition to your wardrobe. The fall collections depicted a range of styles that focused around different textures and variation in detailing. Burberry Prorsum stayed true to its British roots, showcasing the traditional English gent in praiseworthy quilted bombers cut from herringbone tweed. Similarly, Alexander McQueenâ€™s fall collection had an English dandy-esque feel, with longline tailored coats, leather sleeved varsity jackets in heavy wool and double breasted blazers in pin stripe designs. Californian-born label, Band of Outsiders, showcased fur trimmed quilted puffa jackets, while Agnes Bâ€™s crowning glory included Paddington Bear inspired duffle coats in dusty beige, complete with wooden toggles. Philip Lim offered up a plethora of designs, from orange teddy fur varsity style bombers to heavy wool coats with drawstring collars and Tetris inspired graphic prints. French fashion house, Balmain, projected a regal palette of dark blues and created a collection centered around well-tailored outwear, with an emphasis on double breasted heavy wool trench coats and motor cycle jackets with a felt overlay.
A very prominent trend for A/W, the catwalks were bursting with leather items, from gloves to suits to heavy kicking boots. Yves Saint Laurent was the front runner in the leather trend, with nearly every garment showcasing a leather element. An emphasis on tailoring, suggesting that the collection could start a trend for classy fetish wear. Continuing this fetish feeling, Jil Sander channels a military influence, full leather looks with a pristine rubber gloss ruled the runway. Christopher Shannon, ever the fashion maverick, had round neck sweaters in blue with leather sleeves, Alexandre Plohocv gave us dropped crotched leather trousers, round neck short sleeved t shirts and traditional leather gloves, whilst Acne presented wearable teddy boy jackets with fur collars and part quilted part leather , long line jackets complete with a hood. Adding a little depth, Alexis Mable used textured leather with a regal feel, showcasing garments with pairings of different materials; bomber jackets, waistcoats and well fitted velvet blazers with leather sleeves and leather detailing on the lapels. The ultimate purveyor of this trend however was, Belstaff, creating a dark almost gothic tone, there was leather on everything from the motor cycle gloves to skin tight trousers, brown leather safari jackets, black leather biker jackets and not forgetting the constant leather trimmings and crocodile leather shoulder pads on the softer fabrics .
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A winter staple, knitwear is a regular menswear winter trend and this season is no different. Knitwear this season became an essential on the catwalk, providing the centre point for both the layering and mixed fabrication trends. For Pringle of Scotland knitwear was the basis of the collection applying it to every look, from chunky sweaters with distinctive textures as well as applying it to outwear pieces creating a sweater-jacket hybrid. Bold colours were pivotal at Gieves and Hawkes showcased by their subtly textured knits. Prada decided on the knitted polo neck created from thin fabrics while Nicole Farhi had heavy grey marl worn as t shirts under light outwear and Lanvin produced textured round neck cable knits. One of the most coveted of the season was DSquared2’s furry, round neck, cable knits in moss green and brown.
Colour palettes for A/W were a spectrum of bold hues, the most prominent of these were warm red and earthy greens. Reds erupted in a tidal wave of detailing on Versace’s catwalk with thin wool roll necks and floral print jumpsuits (we never would!) While Lanvin juxtaposed it against black overlays, this was also repeated on in both Ann Demeulemeester and Louis Vuitton’s collections. We see organic greens from Marc Jacobs, Canali and Acne and darker, military and bottle greens From Christophe Lemaire and Costume National on lightweight pieces worn under detailed outwear. Prominent also was colour play, with vertical colour blocking on Dries van Noten’s outerwear and an explosion of colourful graphic prints on trousers and heavy knitwear, whilst Walter van beirendonck took the crown for king of colour, showcasing a collection erupting with a rainbow of colour ways, from bobble hats in citrus to traditionally cut suits in baby blue and forest green, as well as tartans and graphic prints.
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Bang on with the current 90’s trend camo should be your print of choose for the next few seasons. Yes, we are well aware that it has a stigma attached, stinky army surplus or memories of the action man print cargo shorts and matching fleece you used the wear when you were 10 but remember, It’s not about how much you wear but how you wear it. A rule of thumb is that, to avoid the jimmy Saville look, pair patterns with complimentary simple items; so for example a pair of skinny fit camo trousers would work well with a plain dark shirt. For a smart casual choose a camo shirt and pair it with neutral trousers, blazer and loafers, or as an item to add more depth to your outfit, wear a camo cardigan or a shirt under a jacket of block colour. If you aren’t necessarily a print man, choose accessories instead, backpacks particularly provide a statement look, while quirkier items such as bowties and pocket squares will add an urban twist to a cooperate look.
Last season varsity jackets stole the spotlight, and while we will always harbour a lot of love for the streetwear staple, the next obvious transition is the versatile bomber jacket. Not only did they saturate the catwalks over fashion weeks, but before they came on trend they were worn universally by, well everyone who wasn’t fashion but still wanted to look good. Channelling the NYC hip hop feel that the varsity jacket briefly tapped into, the bomber just feels that little more British.
On everything, Scarves, overcoats, under coats, shirts, hats, you name it we’ll quilt it. However we caution you not to get too over excited and go head to toe quilted as you will end up pumped up to Michelin man extremes, instead choose pieces with subtle detailing to create texturing to your ensemble, such as a partially quilted denim shirt with subtle panels. Pair your chosen garment with neutral basics or simply cut jackets for maximum effect and no extra padding.
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A long over looked but important element to your wardrobe, a nice pair of socks can really lift an outfit, so no more stealing your girlfriends, mums, or wearing ones with holes in the toes, it’s time to invest in a sock collection to be proud of. They come in so many different colours, styles and textures these days, you will be able to create a collection crazier than a barrel of monkeys with all the personality to match and in consequence you will finally enjoy opening your sock draw in the morning. As far as sock related rules go, as long as you aren’t wearing them up to your ankles or knees (save that for the girls at Hooters) with shorts or sandals, go as crazy as you like.
Heritage brands like Fred Perry and Lacoste are about to get a revival; no longer the t shirt of anxsty teenage boys, they have had a dramatic shift and are now undeniably stylish. Wear under suits, buttoned to the neck for a smart casual look. Perfect wardrobe staples in every colour, if you don’t own one then invest now.
The ultimate man accessory, the backpack is a timeless staple that just does not have a sell by date. Once they resembled a portable body-bag, now they are simple in every sense of the word; bold colour ways and durable fabrics, the ruck-sack is staging a comeback. Only the necessary compartments are considered and unnecessary branding is kept to a minimum. The reality is some men are just not keen on the idea of carrying a clutch, so for those men there is Eastpak.
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Mahatma Gandhi once said: “A man is the sum of his actions, of what he has done, of what he can do, nothing else.” Carla Seipp argues that a man is also defined by the perfume he wears.
such as musk have the strongest effect in this area, alluding to our own primal desires rather than the highly-manufactured, post-caveman era where texting has replaced passionate love letters. Pheromones is a term often thrown around by perfume manufacturers when speaking of this effect, but in reality there is no scientific proof to them actually having a scent, so better to judge your nose than the label on this one.
Ultimately an extension of one’s personality, the right scent is the most discreet yet profound way to whisper to the world who you are. From the first scent extraction processes developed by ancient Egyptian civilisations around 750 B.C. to Napoleon Bonaparte, who was known to go through a sum of eight quarts of violet cologne a month; the history of perfume alone makes for an intriguing subject. However, the most interesting aspect of scent is not recorded in history books, but rather in our memories.
While a majority of men may prefer to dab on a bit of Old Spice aftershave, the realm of perfume products stretches much further. After Old Spice, which contains only 1-3 percent of aromatic compounds (a large part of the rest is alcohol resulting in that lovely post-application sting), comes eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, and finally pure perfume which consists of up to 40 percent of these elements. In non-numerical terms, the higher the concentration, the longer and more intensely the scent will last. Although it may be tempting to grab an eau de toilette over a pure perfume because of the price alone, the evaporation due to the high alcoholic content of the former means the scent might last two to three hours on the skin max before requiring reapplication, whereas the latter can linger on for eight to ten. Choose wisely.
The men in my life that I have known to wear a fragrance did so as a signature, and it fit their personality to a T. My grandfather always keeps a bottle of 4711 Eau de Cologne in close reach - the scent which was invented in 1792 and boasts a timelessly refreshing citrus scent. Like him, the perfume is all about classic masculinity, done in a subtle rather than loud way. My first boyfriend on the other hand, I will always associate with the bergamot, geranium and vetiver-scented Hugo Boss Boss Bottled. Even though we were just teenagers, something about the rather woodsy drydown of the scent made me feel like we were wise beyond our years when together. It may have been youngster naivety and infatuation, but it was as if through that little pump of an atomiser, he morphed from a charming boy into an alluring man. Scent is always the final, but most evocative touch. Your lover may not remember that you wore your Nike hi-dunks to that party, but they will remember if you wore a combination of top, heart and base accords that melted into your skin with the perfect amount of depth; releasing that certain ‘je ne sais quoi’ that pulls one in. A scent should beg one to come closer, not veer away, hence why the amount applied
Perhaps it is no coincidence that the male fragrance market was ‘born’ in the 1960s, an era when the Jaggers and Dylans walked the streets in psychedelicprinted suits by labels such as Granny Takes A Trip. The rebirth of the dandy meant that men were willing to experiment with their fragrance in the same way as with their clothing, ushering in the birth of household fragrances such as the Fougère Brut (a lavender, anise, geranium and oakmoss brew), the chypre Aramis (an über-masculine concoction of bergamot, clove and patchouli) and the citrus Eau Sauvage (a classic comprised of lemon, rosemary, basil and vetiver). These were men willing to take a risk and stand out from the crowd, willing to walk through a party and make a few or more heads turn. Of course fragrance tastes change as do aesthetics. So while there may be some fragrances that stand the test of time – Guerlain Vetiver (launched in 1961)
'THE RIGHT SCENT IS THE MOST DISCREET YET PROFOUND WAY TO WHISPER TO THE WORLD WHO YOU ARE.' echoes the mantra ‘less is more’. Two spritzes per body area is more than enough, with fragrance unfolding to the best possible extent on warmer areas such as the wrists, neck and inside of the elbow.
encompasses an earthy structure based on the scent of grass which still inspires scents, such as the recently launched Tom Ford Grey Vetiver – many scents from the past may seem too dated or cloying for today.
Skin chemistry is the single most important factor that decides between if a scent smells heinous or heavenly, if it is fleeting or lasts forever, and is, just as the selection of your perfume of choice should be, highly individual. Factors such as skin type, age and hormones all play into this as well, explaining why a scent that you tried at sixteen may not have worked, but suddenly does at twenty-six. Some scents you may never like, but some you will mature into. It is almost as if you don’t find a scent but a scent finds you. If you are going through a rather dark phase of life, a mysterious oriental is more likely to speak to you than a crisp and cheerful citrus scent, while a grown man may desire a more complex construction than a fifteen year old.
With an increasingly quick cycle of fragrance production, when faced with a wall of glass bottles and packaging, the majority of us will feel hopelessly overwhelmed. A good place to start is with the aforementioned classics and a few all-time favourites such as Bleu de Chanel, Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Giò Pour Homme,Terre d’Hermès, Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l’Homme, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male and Dior Homme. Don’t knock it until you’ve smelt it. In the same sense, finding out what direction of scent is your type, be it a chypre or floral, is all a matter of trial and error, especially since the construction, concentration and combination of single ingredients within fragrance varies so strongly across the board.
Just as our choice of perfume can work in a subconscious way, so do the effects that it has on those who experience the scent of it on our skin. Scent has been proven to be one of the strongest and most rapidly-acting memory recall devices, and its play in the sexual realm has been charted since the days that Cleopatra applied civet to her eyebrows before meeting her conquests. Animalistic notes
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Above all, fragrance should not be seen as some random necessity in the morning such as as brushing your teeth. It is one of life’s most worthwhile luxuries, an art form in itself and a wonderfully endless maze of (self) discovery. Don’t settle for generic when you can have something exquisite. Spray on the right perfume before heading out the door and the day is yours.
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UKRAINIAN DESIGNER KSENIA SCHNAIDER CHOSE DARK AND INDUSTRIAL FOR AUTUMN 2012.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KAREN STOREY STYLIST: FAITH MILLWARD
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IMAGE 1. Navy canvas jacket and trousers, mesh sweater, white long sleeved shirt by Ksenia Schnaider IMAGE 2. Black Neoprene jacket and trousers by Ksenia Schanider IMAGE 3. Black Neoprene jacket and trousers by Ksenia Schnaider, shoes by Kurt Geiger IMAGE 4. Mesh sweater, grey silk jersey pants by Ksenia Schnaider, shoes by Kurt Geiger IMAGE 5. Mesh Sweater by Ksnenia Schaider IMAGE 6. Black round neck shirt, grey silk jersey pants by Ksenia Schnaider, shoes by Kurt Geiger IMAGE 7. White cotton shirt, black coat and trousers by Ksenia Schnaider, shoes by Kurt Geiger IMAGE 8. Same as above.
PHOTOGRAPHER AND POST PRODUCTION: Karen Storey STYLIST: Faith Millward Fashion co-ordinator: Daniel Piggott Stewart Photographers assistant: James Robert Brown Fashion assistant: Cheyenne Stewart Flannery, Daniel Nebel Model: Caleb @ D1 models With special thanks to Phillip Lucas End of shoot credit: Shadow play was shot with the kind permission of Phillip Lucas in his town house in East London.
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EAST LONDON LABEL NOK NOK GOES PRIMAL IN PRINTS AND SAVAGE IN STUDS.
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES ROBERT BROWN STYLING BY LAURA HARVEY
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IMAGE 1 (from far left) Bleach chaleco and chainmail black jeans, otis studded jacket and black bleached jeans, patchwork denim jacket with paint effect and black leather jeans, bleach effect chuck jeans, all by Nok Nok London. IMAGE 2 Bleach effect ditto jeans by Nok Nok London. IMAGE 3 Bleach black jeans with embroidered pockets by Nok Nok London. IMAGE 4 Bleach effect chuck jeans by Nok Nok London. IMAGE 5 Bleach chaleco and chain-mail black jeans by Nok Nok London. IMAGE6 Otis studded jacket and black leather jeans, black bleach jeans and patchwork denim jacket with paint effect by Nok Nok London. Special thanks to Masquarade, Camden for kindly loaning the animal masks.
Stylist: Laura Harvey Hair and Make up : Gareth Smith @ Hairshow Photographer: James Robert-Brown Fashion assistant: Cheyenne Stewart Flannery, Daniel Nebel Fashion co ordinators: Daniel Piggott Stewart and Faith Millward Models: Daniel Osbourne @ D1 models, Jay Cullen @ D1 models, Jeremy Boateng @ D1 models, March Deane @d1 models 116 : BOBBY DAZZLER
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HANG LOOSE AND LAX IN LAZY OAF’S FINEST.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILL PALMER-REEVES. STYLING: FAITH MILLWARD
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PREVIOUS PAGE: Bat Logo repeat sweatshirt THIS PAGE: Primary shape short sleeve shirt
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PREVIOUS PAGE: Awesome long sleeved T shirt THIS PAGE: Binoculars t-shirt
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PREVIOUS PAGE: Primary shape short sleeve shirt THIS PAGE: Sandwich guy long sleeved shirt
PHOTOGRAPHY: Will Palmer Reeves STYLING: Faith Millward PHOTOGRAPHERS ASSISTANT: Rosie Robertson HAIR AND MAKE UP: Gareth Smith @ Hairshow FASHION COORDINATOR: Daniel Piggott Stewart FASHION ASSISTANT: Stefano Carlo Meroni MODELS: Mike Scrivens, Guetan Elito, Paul Scott, Deano Bugatti & Gabriel Freilich all at D1 Models, Ben Garwood @ Nevs BOBBY DAZZLER : 129
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We believe it’s worth investing in some timeless classics. Pieces that always have and therefore, theoretically, always will remain the foundation of any man’s outfit. Sounds easy right? Wrong. Well fear not. The team at Bobby Dazzler have compiled an inventory that will have you looking your most dapper at all times. Stay calm, and more importantly stay handsome.
Here are a few tips to get you started: Unless you’re Russell Brand stay away from anything pointed, but if you are Russell Brand, well done, sir. Secondly, white rubber soles came, went and didn’t look good in the process. Having shoes that look half edible is a tough look to pull off and we don’t fancy our chances.
A man’s wardrobe should be a place of decadence; filled with all the luxuries this fashionable nation affords us. However, tread carefully. With a high street full of apparent bargains, there’s a fine line between looking like Don Draper and the latest member of One Direction.
Like anything in life, you’ll get what you pay for. Here is a pair of shoes that won’t be spending the night on Oxfam’s step, but rather would be handed down to any future fashionistas you might produce. Trickers. The classic tan brogue - the human equivalent of a peacock’s tail. One shake of these beasts you’ll have heads rubbernecking from Shoreditch to Soho.
Not that we disapprove of the great British high street, heaven forbid, rather each gentleman should understand the importance of finding the right balance. The key is to have some longevity in your well thought out purchases. Having an interchangeable wardrobe will make your mornings easier and your evenings suave. Being a face on the scene and then having tea with the Johnsons should be as easy as swapping those soiled pumps for an understated dress shoe.
Trickers have been the bench mark of quality foot wear for over 150 years. The process of making these masterpieces has remained the same since way back when, with every pair signed by the talented gentleman who happened to make them. Best of all, they’re 100% British. Oh indeed, they’re made in lovely Northampton no less. Trickers are worn by rock star royalty to, well, actual royalty, as evidenced by Prince Charles who has habitually worn them for over twenty years.
A good brogue can be worn with almost any outfit, from suits to jeans, so take your pick and they will steal the show. But remember this, get Trickers and you won’t have to get them again. And saying you wear the same shoes as the future king goes down a treat as well.
First and foremost we have the shoe. Think of them as breakfast, the most important meal of the day. Miss the mark, and you’ll be spotted for all the wrong reasons. Shoes are the first thing anyone will be staring at, and believe me, you’ll be judged accordingly. So where to start? What style is right for you? Colour, shape, size?
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Once upon a time, no man would be seen without his hat. It was considered almost an extension of one’s hair. But as our coiffures became somewhat more advanced and style ever more diverse, the hat made a brief departure from our wardrobe. Classic style, being just that, is having somewhat of resurgence at the moment with massive American imports such as Mad Men and Boardwalk Empire to thank. Your choice in head gear will give a clear sign of who you are. A brightly coloured New York Yankees cap will say “All the kids in my school wear them”. A proper hat will say “Whiskey soda please”.
‘Unless you’re Russell Brand, stay away from anything pointed. But if you are Russell brand, well done, sir.’
When thinking hats, think less is more. This precious garment sitting perched on a fifteen pound head, needs to appear as though that is exactly where it belongs. So which hat is right for you? A brimmed hat will accentuate the brow and thus make your features appear more masculine. But if you happen to look a quite simian in the first place, this can have an odd effect and have you looking one step back on the evolutionary chart. If this applies to you, instead try a soft peaked hat, such as a classic shaped flat cap, as this will close down the face a touch and push the focus to the centre of your features. This could finally be an excuse to grow the moustache you have always dreamed of. Walking in to a real hat shop is an experience in itself, and the hatter himself will have a wealth of knowledge to see you on your way. A brand not to be overlooked is Peter Christian. Established in 2003, this family owned business has a combined forty years experience producing top quality hats and other garments, just ask your grandfather. Using only the finest tweeds, these urban helmets will keep the most fierce of winter winds at bay. Choose a lighter peaked number for the summer days and you won’t have to risk taking the vintage Ray-bans on an all day pub crawl.
When it comes to jeans it seems that there is no right nor wrong, however that doesn’t mean there isn’t a good and bad. With a seemingly infinite amount of brands, cuts and colours to choose from, (not to mention the little idiosyncrasies such as weight, waist line, selvedge or non selvedge) it’s little wonder it can get confusing out there. It’s safe to say that it is best to keep things simple; after all, this is a garment that is going to cover half of your body. Not that one shouldn’t embrace the many varieties we have at our disposal - variety is the spice of life, as we’re told! Just remember that if you’ve already paid for the jeans, there is no need to be a walking advert. Leave the ill fitted, low hanging, heavily branded floor scrapers for our friends across the pond. This is England don’t you know, and we do things a little differently. Indigo blue will go nicely with just about anything anyone happens to own, hence why it is the most popular colour of jean the world over. These dark hue will work in all seasons and, whilst a great stand alone colour, is subtle enough to let your show pieces grab the attention. Originally made on shuttle looms, jeans were made for people who worked outdoors and therefore needed a withstanding pair of trousers. Purists argue that this is the “only” way to make jeans. They could well be on to something. Ever since jeans became popular to the masses, this old-fashioned (and albeit slower) way of making quality jeans became obsolete. Made with raw denim and up until recently only made in a straight cut, loom made selvedge jeans are once again big business. Most of the original looms were sold to Japan and brands such as EDWIN have picked up where the Americans left off. Sneaky revivalists. EDWIN ED71 raw denim selvedge jeans are as good as any available on the market today. Made with raw, unwashed denim you are advised to wash them once every six months - giving most men half a year to work out how the washing machine works. With a bright, yet understated, white and red selvedge stripe on the seam, these hard wearing jeans will mould to your body as you wear them, ensuring a unique fit develops over time. Wear with a white t-shirt and Converse to live out your ‘stand by me’ style boy-hood adventure, or throw on some lapels for a dash of smart-casual cool.
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Different occasions require a different shirt, but there is one that has the ability to blend seamlessly with any attire. Enter the room: the Oxford shirt. Generally referring to a shirt with a short buttoned down collar, Oxford is the type of cloth used to make them. It has a basket weave structure and a lustrous aspect making it popular among those who appreciate finer detailing. The Oxford shirt really came into its own in the late 60s and was the go-to shirt for the mods. Seen again in the cult classic, Quadrophenia, it soon became favoured by bands such as The Stone Roses. Moving away from ‘football casual’, designers round the globe have all had their wicked way with the classic Oxford. Plenty of good quality versions can be found in most high street clothing stores from Topman to Uniqlo, and since it’s the type of cotton that makes an Oxford they all tend to be of a fairly decent standard. Fit however can differ, along with a few minor personalisations. For days spent gallivanting in the country, try a cool powder blue Oxford shirt paired with shorts. Roll up the sleeves and maybe involve a crisp white t-shirt as a base layer - how very continental one could say. Coffee with friends? Match with jeans and a pair of pumps. Traditionally a dress shirt, the Oxford will also work wonders with a suit giving an edgier and urban finish to your attire. Designed in Japan and expertly crafted in Italy, the Maison Kitsuné classic Oxford is the epitome of ‘luxury basic’. Slim fitting with soft colours and beautiful fabric, this is the finest representation of what the Oxford shirt is truly about. If you’re looking to expand the shirting collection or require just the one, this classic will have you off to a flying start.
Ah, the humble trainer. It has come a long way in the fashion stakes of late. Refusing to be ignored, we see ever fresh designs every season - from the understated to the bold and brash. There was a time when you weren’t allowed in the local pub with a pair, now it’s not uncommon to hear that a pair of vintage Nike Air Jordan’s has been sold for upward of $500. There are your enthusiasts, your collectors and the downright obsessed. Your dad may even own a pair. If he does, keep hold of them, they may be worth a pretty penny one day. With shops like Size?, a sneaker fan’s wet dream, it’s easy to fulfil your trainer fetish down the drabbest of British high streets. Check out classics such as Air Max, New Balance, Converse and Vans. While they tend to spin in cycles of popularity, it’s fair to say they’re here for the long haul. The team at Bobby Dazzler like trainers very much. So while opinions differ on what constitutes good, bad, cool, or ugly, it’s right to say we own various pairs. And why not? A pair of limited edition Opening Ceremony leopard print high tops, paired with a simple blue jean and white crew neck is an entire outfit, and that is just fine with us. So where to go from here? What trainers should you get? What colour, brand?
‘With shops like size? (a sneaker fan’s wet dream) it’s easy to fulfil your trainer fetish down the drabbest of British high streets.’
Here’s the thing, there is no training when it comes to trainers and that’s why they are so fun. The companies who produce them make it easier for us to digest by releasing the season’s trend accordingly; so you won’t be seen wearing a pair of floral high tops stomping through mid December sludge. Whatever you choose, just consider the situation. Other than that, go nuts!
A lot of men panic when it comes to bags and quite rightly so. Use that battered Nike holdall you’ve had since school, and you’ll scream estate agent. On the flip side, pick one too feminine and prepare for the barrage of Mary Poppins jokes when trying to have a quiet one down the local. As for the strapped mini man bag, unless you’re planning on being the next star of Jersey Shore, forget about it. But fear not, it’s easier than you think. In most cases when looking for that perfect travel bag, ask yourself this, “What would my dad carry?” Now this question should be reserved for bag purchasing situations only, for if your dad’s anything like mine you could find yourself donning a thick wool knit with Yogi and Boo-Boo bear on the front before you know what’s happened. Each to their own I guess. 132 : BOBBY DAZZLER
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‘In most cases, when looking for that perfect travel bag ask yourself this, “What would my dad carry?”’
“Man bags”, as the term goes, should be just that, manly. Words such as “chic” and “pretty” should be reserved, respectively, for your partner’s or lady friend’s clutch. As cliché as it sounds, try finding something that looks hefty, sturdy and weathered. Think Indiana Jones. Just having a bag in your presence will have people guessing as to what is in it, in other words what sort of a man you are - Small feminine bag: foundation, tissues, maybe even a pocket rocket. Solid man’s bag: little black book, wad of money, kitchen sink. Get it? Tying in with the theme, here’s a solid British classic for you: Barbour’s medium leather travel explorer bag. This tartan lined, leather holdall is all the bag you will ever need. Big enough for your weekend travels, the detachable strap means it can be worn with your suit or scruffs, while the leather address fob keeps you safe if you ever happen to misplace such a stunning bit of kit. With its dark oak hues and premium leather, this bag should age as beautifully as you do.
We’ve all had those moments when an approaching event falls in an outfit grey area. Meeting the parents and drinks with the boss can impale even the most stylish; rendering them in a sort of fashion limbo. Then there are the moments when going home and getting changed before hand is just too much effort, but you can’t very well turn up to the Proms in your Space Ibiza t-shirt from 2001. A casual blazer, i.e. not one that is part of a suit, is the perfect way to smarten up any outfit. Once only worn by your average IT technician and the likes of George W. Bush (when trying to show his everyman side), there are now what we would refer to as ‘casual blazers’ available through most brands worth a mention. Sure, your blue cashmere fitted suit blazer is to die for, we wouldn’t expect anything less. However we believe that it should be kept for best. What’s the point in breaking up and possibly playing down that show stopper of an outfit? As these garments have become in higher demand, naturally changes have occurred; such is fashion. Your drab grey sports jacket has been replaced with what can only be described as a painter’s coat. Brands such as Acne, YMC and Carhartt have all made these jackets almost signature to their lines. Light and bright in summer and dense and dark in winter, there’s no reason to be not looking your best any time of the year. Never failing to amaze, Norse Projects released this work-wear inspired blazer. The dark navy colour is perfect for summer and will also work with any darker winter clothes that you happen to throw on. Styled to wear smart or casual, it could even be worn as part of a makeshift suit. The subtle styling is typical of the clan over at Norse Projects and as ever, the attention to detail is exceptional.
A lot can be said for the humble white t-shirt, but probably not much you don’t already know. The fashion world is sometimes crowded with over-priced, overdesigned, monotonous trash, but it’s nice to know that this international icon is readily available almost anywhere and at a price that most can afford. Any outfit can be based around it and it’s safe to say this will be the most iconic article of clothing you’re ever likely to own. James Dean wore them, as did Bowie and Elvis (even the lad down the hand car-wash wears them). They have always been and always will be. Wear them fitted, wear them baggy but do yourself a favour and never ever wear them tight. Ensure they are 100% cotton, slightly fitted and round at the neck. There’s no need to go designer with these back huggers, as the best ones seem to be made by either Gap or Uniqlo - both fantastic shops when it comes to quality basics. Sold in packs of two, you’ll get a lot of wear for your £10. Roll the sleeves slightly on those hot summer days or maybe even stick a pack of cigarettes underneath and make Mr Dean run for his money. Either way, with a stock pile of white tees in the wardrobe, you’ll always look on trend.
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The Harrington jacket is one Northern England’s many gifts to the world. Lightweight, mid length and with a Fraser tartan lining, it serves its purpose and does it with lashings of cool. The Harrington acquired its name after a well known 60s TV character and became popular after Elvis donned one in the 1958 cult film, King Creole. Sales rocketed and the exact same model remains on sale today. With its similarities to American Ivy League jackets, classical style icons (namely James Dean, Frank Sinatra and Steve McQueen) firmly cemented the Harrington’s status as the go-to jacket for any man of the town. As a timeless piece, it refuses to be closeted and is reinvented time and time again within various subcultures and fashion conscious circles. Mods, skinheads and allround scooter boys loved them in the 60s and again in the 70s/80s revivalist era. Wear yours with an oxford shirt, a classic t-shirt, or if you’re a jazz funk enthusiast, even a polo neck. Several designers, notably Fred Perry, Lacoste, Yves Saint Laurent and Ralph Lauren, have all turned their talented hand to this humble jacket. But try as you might, some things just can’t be bettered. The Baracuta G9 is the original and best in show. Expertly crafted, this slim fitted jacket will remain in tip top shape for years. And while the company offer a few variations of its original, such as a waxed version perfect for the ever-changing British weather, the G9 still remains its crowning glory.
Last, but certainly not least, we have the suit. No wardrobe will be complete without one, and a stella one at that. It’s often said, “I have no need for one”. Make need for one. For those who don’t wear a suit often, let me be the first to tell you that there’s something very special about doing so. You’ll be walking taller, proud and with swagger. In short you will feel better than when you didn’t have it on. Like it’s some sort of cocaine enhanced clothing. With suits it’s more important than any piece of clothing to have the best you can get; nobody wants to be the man in a cheap suit. When you have your suit, don’t leave it collecting dust waiting for a rare wedding only appearance. Wear it to the pub, on dates, to the shops; wear it to death. A good suit will last, so show it off. Get into the mindset that suits aren’t just for special occasions. Men wear suits. It’s as simple as that.
‘For those who don’t wear a suit often, understand that you’ll be walking taller, proud and with swagger.’
The most important thing when it comes to suits is fit, in fact it’s the only thing. Wear a pink and blue polkadot zoot suit and, as long as it fits as it should, you’ll still be doing better than most. Ill fitting suits are the big no. Walk through the city on any given day and you see them in the masses. They look sloppy, tired and on the whole just a bit weathered. A well chosen suit will accentuate the male form giving the perfect v shape; important to those who prefer to keep a more slender figure. A properly fitted black suit in a sea of black suits will stand alone. When we compare the modern figures who wear them well: David Gandy, Daniel Craig and David Beckham, to those who don’t (Boris Johnson, Harry Hill and Elton john), it’s easy to see what a difference it makes. Impeccable tailoring is something to marvel at, for it truly is an art form. Having a suit made should be a right of passage for any man, young or old. Like having your first wet shave at the barbers, having a suit made is one of the few ways a man can pamper himself. While there are some striking off-the-peg suits available, and high street store versions are ever improving, we must not forget that we are afforded some of the most talented hands in the world when it comes to tailoring. Saville Row’s notoriety is just, but there are plenty of other cloth wizards out there waiting to help you through the transition from boy to man. If you haven’t got a suit, get working on it - you will not regret it. Blue, grey, charcoal, beige, two or three piece, single or double breasted: the options are limitless. Strive to afford the one that’s perfect for you. Wear it proud and wear it often because, as stated before, men, real men, wear suits. Stay handsome. Text by Phillip Latz
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ILLUSTRATION: Jack Byne
Is it the road to success that has changed, or the idea of what success actually is? asks Paul Scott. “I know what I can do so I never doubt myself”; The poignant words of athlete Usain Bolt, the clear icon of real modern day success and a nations treasure, reveal that he knows all about hard graft and unwavering self belief. It is refreshing that among the TOWIE’s and the X Factors there remains individuals who are eager to make a change. Sometimes the world needs to be reminded of what true, deserved success really looks like, and what’s better than global glory? So what is success? Is it down to good education, hard graft or sheer blind luck? There is a school of thought that there are people who are destined for success in life and others that are bound never to achieve it no matter how hard they try, but is this reality or simply laziness bred by a tough society? Consider this, just because one person may achieve top grades in school and go on to study at a good university, it does not mean that they will succeed in their chosen field, but what’s to stop the average Joe who has never been to college, let alone looked at a UCAS form, being stopped on the street and offered a million pound modeling contract? It’s true that success can be measured in more ways than one. Determining who is successful and who is not cannot be decided at a glance, but I can’t help but feel in the 21st century it seems that it is money and possessions that determines whether or not you have that title bestowed on you. At first glance success seems to be a fickle area; the old maxim of working hard for what you want seems to apply less now, than ever before. Instead, we find ourselves hoping that we will catch an easy break and land a part in a reality TV show or win the lottery, rather than graft our way, through long hours and hard work, to the ‘top’. But is it the road to success that has changed, or is it the idea of what success actually is? Though the majority of us are born average, we have the tools of education, knowledge and opportunity to craft whatever talents we may have into a real skill, and consequently into success
that is truly well earned. Money once went hand in hand with success because both were hard to come by. To earn money was to earn success, and by earn I mean pour ever ounce of your being, blood sweat and tears into making an idea a reality rather than just expecting it to fall into your lap. When seeking success, do it the old-school way, from the very bottom. It may mean working hard but make no mistake; this is not the boring route. It may not be easy, but what can be achieved is the type of success that lasts, the type of success that will be admired. This will mean putting in the ground work and building a foundation on which your achievements will stand for a lot longer, for true success requires commitment to your own development. It will mean dreaming big but working to make it a reality rather than waiting for it to fall into your lap. Even the greatest success stories didn’t’t have an easy break; they had a taste of bad runs and multiple dead ends, but used them as fuel for a fire to keep going; fired from a news paper for “lack of imagination” Walt Disney didn’t give up, after being dropped from Grand Ole Opry Records and told he was “going nowhere” Elvis kept on playing and Rudyard Kipling a man who “didn’t know how to use the English language”; received a Nobel prize in literature 8 years later. Take note, even great people get knocked down time after time before they succeeded, but it was their unwavering belief in something that, no matter how farfetched others thought that it was, they still knew they had the drive to achieve. Like Usain Bolt they knew what they could do, and coupled with immense drive and ambition, they eventually succeeded. From this we can draw only one thing, the road to success is not easy, but remember it’s not about getting knocked down, It’s about how many times you get knocked down and come back-up with a fighting attitude; Just watch Rocky to reaffirm that self belief, a willingness to get your hands dirty and determination breeds successful people.
Bobby Dazzler’s guide to finding something out there 1. “Outstanding people in their field, from golf to moral philosophy, have deep awareness of the great practitioners of their craft” - David Randall. Read as much as you can about what you want to do. Look at as many pictures, as many videos, about the history of your craft. You need to know where you’ve been to get where you’re going. 2. Do whatever you can (within moral boundaries) to get to the place you want to be. If you want to speak to Spielberg you have to be prepared to wait as long as takes, and to make 1000 phone calls. Eventually someone will talk. If you find you don’t have that desire, it probably means that it’s not what you really want to do. 3. When everyone else is saying you can’t do it, when you’re at you’re lowest, will probably be the time to put more effort into what you’re doing than you ever have before. Two journalists that uncovered illegal activities in President Nixon’s administration leading to his resignation had a book and a Hollywood film made of their investigation as a final outcome. Before that was a thousand frustrations of wasted months, abuse from Nixon’s supporters, self doubt, time spent away from home, hours, weeks and months dedicated to searching records for vital information. They hit new lows, but it was the sheer will, obsession and love for their work that kept them going. 4. Being good and not great is nothing to be laughed at. Seeking an honest living, being a good person and finding fulfilment in the little things, should be a life admired and respected by all, and is deemed by many, as a successful life in its own right. As contradictory as it sounds what most of us ‘Average Joe’s’ have right now is beyond average, it’s in fact a fantastic gift and we should be humbled to be in possession of it. To know what we have, we sometimes need to remember what we haven’t.
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Long gone are the days when fashion and charity meant taking your unwanted clothes to dump outside Oxfam. While the charity giant might still appreciate your threads, giving has just got even easier with the debut of Mercy and Wild. Interview and text by Daniel Piggott - Stewart Founded by fashion models Isaac Carew and Ty Evans Akingbola, the london-based t-shirt company was inspired by Isaac’s long-term struggle with dyslexia and the duo’s motivation for change. “We started with a t-shirt saying ‘I put the sexy in dyslexia,’” says Isaac, who has previously modeled for brands Hermes, Reiss and Topman. “Originally my face was on it, but Ty’s business mind helped us launch the concept of Mercy and Wild instead.” Ty’s business acumen is evident throughout our interview, “I just got to thinking how many people know who Isaac is?” she says confidently. “And how many people who are dyslexic would wear a t-shirt with his face on it? I thought it would be a small niche.” Fortunately, Isaac is un-offended by his business partner’s logic and starts laughing. In fact, the duo appear completely at ease with each other, to the extent that they are finishing one another’s sentences. The name Mercy and Wild is attributed to Louisa, a friend of the twosome who helped at the beginning of their venture. “Together we played with different names,” says Ty knowledgeably. “Mercy and Wild is kind of looking at the two different sides on the brand: the fashionable and the charitable.” Taking inspiration from Toms and their ‘one for one’ system (with every purchase of TOMS shoes, their non-profit division ‘Friends of Toms’ give a new pair to a child in need), Mercy and Wild donates 25% of their profits each season to a charity of their choice – with UKbased charity, Dyslexia Action, as the recipient of their current work. “We will always try to do something that is close to our hearts,” says Ty passionately. “And we are especially motivated because we have a personal attachment to the cause.”
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While dyslexia still has negative connotations for some, knowledge that Einstein, Walt Disney, John Lennon, Andy Warhol and even Hans Christian Anderson (to name a few) were dyslexic, or had characteristics associated with dyslexia, has helped loosen any stigmatized grip. Some believe that dyslexia has even become exploited in some circles where the privileges of having a learning disability in higher education, for example, are well-known. “What annoys me the most is when people say they’re dyslexic when they fuck up a paragraph or something, but they’re not,” says Isaac emotively. “They then get free Macs and other stuff at the expense of others that actually do but haven’t sought help.” Dyslexia Awareness Week starts on Monday 8th October later this year with the theme of ‘empowering teachers’ – a subject that Isaac is personally acquainted with. “When it comes to dyslexia, it’s all about the teachers at the end of the day. If you have a shit teacher and you’re dyslexic, then it doesn’t work,” he says emotively. The brand is hoping to generate more awareness of this with their tees. “We took different symptoms of dyslexia and thought about how we could illustrate it. For example, one of the t-shirts is a stack of books that you’re supposed to have read, but all the titles are spelt wrong.” Each design has been uniquely commissioned by the team with every illustrator given special acknowledgement on the Mercy and Wild website. The entire collection is made from an ‘Earth Positive Range’ from an international wholesaler, meaning that each t-shirt is 100% organic cotton and created with the environment in mind. “They are made at a little factory in India which is solar-powered and where all the workers get fair pay. We’ve made sure that it’s up to Fair Wear Association standards and even ensured that our products are shipped over by boat so that our carbon footprint is really low,” Ty asserts. “It’s really easy to find sustainable eco-friendly options, which is encouraging I suppose, but it’s not necessarily something that everyone feels they can do.” Isaac interjects, “It’s slightly more expensive, but I think it’s worth it in the long run to have something you can have a good conscience about.”
In an industry fraught with fashion trends, the Mercy and Wild brand has surpassed the chance of being a one-hit-wonder through intelligent t-shirt design. The basic black and white colour palette matched with each tee’s wit or all-round beauty make them somewhat timeless. Furthermore, their advertising is inclusive of both men and women and stands out from the plethora of current fashion house campaigns through their approachable, healthy and happy looking models – in short, they look like the kind of guys that you’d see having a water-fight in the middle of a field in the height of summer. “Our branding, photo-shoots and even our tone of voice never attempts to be ‘down with the kids’ but appeal to everyone,” Ty adds.
‘MERCY AND WILD HAS SURPASSED THE CHANCE OF BEING A ONE-HIT-WONDER THROUGH INTELLIGENT T-SHIRT DESIGN.’
As well as being made available to order from their website, Mercy and Wild is also stocked at Young Thread and 123 Store: two highly coveted online boutiques which place an emphasis on new and emerging designers. In the future however, it would be the duo’s dream to have a stand-alone shop. “What’s that street I love?” Isaac asks. “Fournier Street,” Ty answers without hesitation. “In my daydreams, that’s the place where Mercy and Wild would be,” he concludes, highlighting the hub of creativity in the area from artists Gilbert and George, and the eastend street’s close proximity to Spitalfields Market and brands like Barbour. “The thing with having an actual physical store is that you get footfall from people who are curious,” Ty rationalizes. “Whereas when you’re online, it’s less likely that people stumble across you.” Far from stumbling into the future, the brand is already preparing its next charity venture which is rumored to be in conjunction with a bipolar organisation. There are also plans to expand the Mercy and Wild brand into more of a lifestyle enterprise, with the potential to manufacture ornate candles and even bed sheets. “The fashion industry could do with having a bit more of a conscience,” Ty concludes. “We’re here to help it along”. www.mercyandwild.com @WercyandWild
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Lonsdale Boys Club: Image courtesy of All-Press All good musical charlatans come in threes; The Beastie Boys, The Stooges and now West London’s Lonsdale Boys Club. Front man Charlie Weaver talks to Faith Millward on the eve of Lonsdale boys Club’s bid for chart domination.
still shop on Portobello road and they could probably name you all the best pubs in West London, the kind of pubs that have pints by the pound and graffiti scrawled on the toilet doors.
With backing from Gary Barlow’s record label Future records, LBC (as they are better known) have quietly climbed their way up the industry ladder over the past year; chances are you’ve found yourself singing along with ‘Light me up’, their debut single, without really realising you even know the lyrics - it’s these kind of infectious anthems that LBC are pioneering. With two singles in the pipeline, a successful tour and pending album already under their belts, the end of 2012 is set to be a real game changer for the LBC boys.
Fronting the group is the Etonian-looking, reggae fan Charlie Weaver. Citing Mick Jagger for the ‘way he owns the stage’ and Johnny cliffe for the ‘melody and hooks’ as his teachers, Charlie explains that his role within the band is paramount to success, ‘Frontmen are the front of the band, the way that they express themselves are an immediate reflection of the group and the music’. It is undisputable to state that Weaver is a well grounded individual, he explains that for him ‘happiness is having real friends and real people and being proud of what you are doing on a daily basis’; could these really be the words of a potential pop-star?. Spending most days in the studio or writing songs, Weaver is doing what he loves and this obvious emotional fulfilment shines through brightly in every carefully crafted lyric. Weaver has earned himself a status as somewhat of a heart throb, modestly however, he says that he doesn’t understand why, ‘i don’t really make that much of an effort with how i dress’. By his own admission Weaver is a Jeans and T shirt guy, favouring street wear over anything else. A Life t shirts are his staple item, after wearing them at their first ever gig ‘the response was that they looked sick’, paired with skinny jeans and gold jewellery (‘not too much though, i don’t want to look
The Lonsdale boys’ bat cave is down a cobbled street in West London; a self built studio sandwiched between refuse bins and cleaners’ vans, there is very little to suggest that behind closed doors a musical reformation is taking place. Lonsdale road, a quiet street in Queens Park; this is where the aptly named Lonsdale Boys Club was born. After a little communal jamming and night long lock ins, the three friends have built a dystopia of pumping beats spawned entirely from their amalgamation of musical influences and universal love of good music. This is their identity and environment, what inspires them on a daily basis. Describing the band as a riposte to the ‘pulse of the city and everything that’s happening around us’ the trio have spent two years carefully crafting an album so infectious and undefinable that you’ll find yourself learning the lyrics to a song after only a few plays. In such a tough climate for new boy bands, with stiff competition from the likes of heavyweights One Direction, The Wanted and Lawson, LBC are a mismatched trio that, on paper shouldn’t work, but it is here that lays their appeal. Brought together by their guitar teacher, who saw a spark of brilliance in each of them but knew that they needed to find a winning formula, three very unlikely boys have joined forces to create a musical super team. It is reggae club promoter Charlie, New Zealander Topher (who is of epic proportions in both height and hair), and DJ Loz that have become London’s answer to the Avengers. Everything about LBC is home grown; they write their own songs, they play their own instruments, they
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‘THE WAY THAT FRONT MEN EXPRESS THEMSELVES IS AN IMMEDIATE REFLECTION OF THE GROUP’.
If manners maketh the man, Owen Millward maketh the column. I’m going to share something with you now, an unspoken secret which has annoyed me for years. This secret is so bizarre, that once I tell you, you will think that I am insane. So, here it is… I rotate my barber. Now, at first glance this may seem like a bit of an anti-climax; not that odd at all. After all, there are many good hairdressers out there and to search for one which suits me and gives me the best haircut may seem like an eminently sensible proposition. But I’m not done yet, that’s only half the story. For you see, the reason I change barbers frequently has nothing to do with style, competence or price. Rather it has everything to do with inanity.
like Mr T’), to finish his look Weaver openly admits an unadulterated addiction to Air Max 1’s and a passion for limited editions kicks. While Loz and Topher are more fashion conscious Charlie likes to keep his look simple; his hobbies, BMXing and motorbiking, mean that he isn’t one for big statement clothing and prefers to let his accessories do the talking. Understated is starting to become a go-to word for the LBC boys. Despite the fact that they are steadily becoming household names, LBC are in no way pretentious as many boy bands become in the wake of their twitter followers increasing. LBC are instead very approachable and welcoming, but quite clearly running with the bit firmly between their teeth. Ambitious and hard working, like a well tuned machine each of the trio has their role within the group. It is very easy to start a ‘boy band’, but to be successful is a completely different story, for LBC they seem to have the formula nailed. On the 21st of May, ‘Light Me Up’, was released, the first track to be released from their forthcoming album, it was a well chosen anthem perfect for pathing the way to the oncoming summer. Weaver explains that to him the tune is a ‘pure statement of confidence but not in a arrogant way’, evoking a sense of good feeling and a reflection of the bands obvious happy-go-lucky attitude to life; the tune seemed like the perfect starting post for the band’s first public-airing. The breaking beat makes you want to ‘do a Saturday night fever strut; march and feel good’ Weaver explains; this definition of good feeling seems to be the band’s motto; everything they do they ensure that they do it for the right reasons. Stripped of any auto-tuning, cheesy lyrics and choreographed moves, Lonsdale Boys Club are masterminding a 21st century take on the hip-hop meets rock music our dad’s used to listen to when they were teenagers. So what’s next? ‘We would love to tour with Example or The Wombats, in a dream world i would even say Red Hot Chilli Peppers or The Rolling Stones’, for now however the boys have just wrapped their first headline tour which in itself is a huge achievement.
I cannot stand inanity; pointless, unnecessary and witless conversation which goes nowhere and enriches no one. I choose the people I socialise and interact with carefully and I have never felt the need to randomly chat with people in shops, the street or the supermarket. I don’t think it’s too much to expect the same from others. I don’t need to know where my barber is going on holiday and I don’t really want to tell them where I’m going either. Their weekend plans are irrelevant to me, as is their take on current affairs or the state of the National Health Service. In fact, I would much prefer they focused their whole attention on the proposition of cutting my hair rather than trying to multitask. After-all, do I drive while reading a book? Or walk to the shops while making a salmon niçoise? No, I have the good sense to realise that there is a time and a place for everything and that giving me a blow-by-blow account of a fight you witnessed outside a nightclub the previous evening while simultaneously holding a cut-throat razor an inch from my carotid artery is not one of them. Now, let’s be even-handed; it’s not just barbers. I do not need the fellow on the supermarket checkout to tell me what each item is as they scan it. I know what it is... I was the one who put it in the trolley. I am not in the habit of roaming the supermarket aisles playing pot luck with the shopping. Into the same repugnant bouillabaisse should go the meaningless platitudes which are so often spouted by our service industry today. For example, I do not need the receptionist at the gym to tell me to ‘have a good session’ nor do I need to ‘have a nice day,’… I might not, it could be raining. So my advice to everyone who hates inanity is simple. Rotate your barber until eventually you find one who values silence, shop online and wear your headphones into the gym so as to deflect all the inanity. It worked for me after-all.
Unlike many bands Lonsdale Boys club are driven by a passion, that passion is a love of music rather than the profit that they could potentially gain. ‘I am a bit of an OCD control freak, in the sense that i like things to be done well, the best that they can be’ Weaver states. Simply it is this shameless emphasis on quality that makes LBC stand out from the multiple contenders for the 2012 boy-band crown. Watch out One Direction there may be five of you but this trio are not to be messed with. @lonsdaleboys
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Every year, there are multiple inventories of the best-dressed men in popular culture. Bobby Dazzler has selected a few British blokes with inspiring style, who may not have fallen on your radar. Words by Faith Millward.
REGGIE YATES One of the better known Grange Hill graduates, Mr Yates’ style is simple but classic. Crowning his glory is a calculated attention to detail, particularly with accessories; his collection boasts thick-rimmed glasses and wide faced watches. Yates is the poster boy for smart-casual with an urban twist. Think graphic tees paired with blazers or simple denim shirts and slim fit jeans. However, when he is on red carpet duty, Reggie isn’t a stranger to a well cut suit and skinny tie. With Kelly Rowland on his list of previous conquests and supermodel Jordan Dunn rumoured to be his new squeeze, you can hardly dispute that this boy has pulling power.
ADRIEN SAUVAGE If you don’t know the name we suggest you google it. Sauvage is a real pioneer in keeping menswear grounded. Hailing from Wandsworth, he’s had many career rethinks - starting as a basketball player, a personal shopper and as a stylist, before he and his bezzie mate George Lamb opened their own design house. Suits and tailoring are obviously his forte, so it is no surprise that he is rarely seen out of them. Living safely by his mantra, ‘Dress easy’, Sauvage chooses his own adaptation of traditional cuts in muted colours and soft wool materials. He accessorises with tie pins and pocket squares, and is usually spotted wearing his trademark circle rimmed glasses. He’s undeniably well dressed. We’d love to see what he wears when he’s changing the kitchen bin.
JACK O’CONNELL You may best remember him as the tearaway character, Cook, in Skins or the equally promiscuous Eamonn Doherty in Martina Cole’s Runaway. With a portfolio of tormented youth roles it is understandable that Jack O’Connell’s loveable rogue
reputation exceeds him. With a coveted cameo in This in England under his belt, you can bet your bottom dollar that his star is going to reach epic heights in 2013. With a style best described as an update of the mod, he is quite clearly influenced by eras past. From the tartan lined Harrington jackets and Fred Perry polos, to the maroon tassel loafers and Beatlesstyle, blue-tinted sunglasses, O’Connell is pioneering a revival of Quadrophenia-esque style.
Toddla T With a distinctive 80s feel, the wardrobe of superstar Dj Toddla T is best described as a sonic boom of cartoons and pop art motifs. Bursting with more colour than a children’s finger painting class, and topped off with a rudimentary B-Boy gold chain, we imagine peering into his wardrobe is like looking through a kaleidoscope... enough to give you a migraine. Selective with his outerwear, Toddla T wears varsity jackets and customised leathers, which are no less conservative than the rest of his garb. Although we can’t help noticing a bit of a resemblance to Christopher Walken (as the Hessian Horseman in Sleepy Hollow), we think Toddla T is definitely on to something.
PLAN B Now well and truly out of his Strickland Banks crooner phase, we welcome back the Plan B who we know and love. The original ‘Ill Manors’ Plan B favours hoodies and casual street threads topped off with a good pair of Nike blazers, while Strickland Plan B was all about sleek black suits, paisley ties, crisp fly-away collared shirts and armbands. If he could somehow merge the two personas and become the hip-hop equivalent of James Bond we would be very impressed.
CRAIG ROBERTS Star of Richard Ayoade’s indie film Submarine, BBC’s Being Human and erm... Tracey Beaker, Craig Robert’s dry wit and sarcasm matches his understated style. As Bobby Dazzler’s guilty comedy pleasure, we can’t help but love Roberts’ awkward yet endearing persona. We’re not sure if there’s a term for how he dresses, but if there was it would go something along
the lines of street-geek-chic. Combining framed specs with Peewee Herman inspired bow-ties, thick overcoats and Adidas high tops, Roberts’ style factor is in no way sinking.
ROBERT SHEEHAN On screen we have seen Mr Sheehan wearing everything from a bright orange boiler suit (Misfits) to a monk’s habit (Season of the Witch). But in reality, Sheehan is a skinny jeans and shirt kind of guy. Despite the occasional appearance of a dad tie, his style is versatile and mostly always on point. Like the Irish embodiment of Mr Darcy, he cuts a suave silhouette in both casual and sharp tailoring; always ensuring that his boisterous personality shines through. His most coveted accessory/secret weapon? A head of hair that rivals even Marge Simpson.
JAKE BUGG A newbie on the music scene, it is unlikely that Jake Bugg has been added to your playlist as of yet. Although often resembling the kind of bloke you would see down the pub, his presence and vocal talent is more stadium than makeshift stage. Bugg’s style channels The Stone Roses in their early years with an update on vintage sports jackets, slim fitting jeans and gingham shirts. The finished result? A more coiffed version of Noel Gallagher himself.
JOE DEMPSIE Similar to the wayward character he portrayed in E4‘s Skins, the best way to describe Joe Dempsie’s style is nu rave casual. A fan of graphic t-shirts, acidic colours and hooded sweaters, the twentyfive year old’s wardrobe is eye-wateringly good. His acting repertoire has extended to other roles since Skins, including BBC’s drama Merlin. He is currently playing the part of Gendry in HBO’s Game of Thrones. We’re seeing a running theme of medieval garb here... hopefully well-confined to the small screen. Dempsie’s styling success comes from his ability to choose simple staple menswear items, such as classic outerwear and short sleeved tees, that are characteristic in design and reflect his vibrant personality.
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MICHAEL SOCHA Of all the candidates featured on our list, we think that Being Human alumni, Michael Socha, has the most versatile style of the bunch. Relatively unknown prior to This is England (he played Harvey, the schoolyard bully turned bezzie mate of Shaun), it’s fair to say that Socha’s rough around the edges image makes him both loveable and a bit of a Bobby Dazzler poster boy. Honing in on all things masculine, his wardrobe is, as previously mentioned, versatile and full of contrasts. Take for example the cunning combination of casual Nike Air Max’s with a smart button down check shirt - a risky choice but somehow Socha makes it work.
THE ALTERNATIVE LIST OF THE BEST OF BRITISH
BRUCE FORSYTH A Brucey bonus to the list. Simply because when we hit eighty we hope we can wear a three piece as well as Sir Forsyth.
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‘Introducing the graduating model class of Bobby Dazzler 2012.’
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rringt a H ’ h c t e l F ‘ etcher
How would you describe your style? Off the cuff yet simple; I’m your typical London boy, nothing too fancy just enough to get by. I love wearing my pin-rolled jeans and brogues, but at the same time you can catch me in a pair of desert boots with crazy wrist bands and a basic tee - cruising around town on my long board to and from castings. How were you scouted? Crazy story. I was 15 and got scouted by Phillip Salon; he is a bit of a superstar in the gay world, notorious for pioneering the new romantic era and reinventing Boy George’s style. I was in a club getting my under age drinking on, when Philip came up to me and asked, “Are you a model?” I said no. He then kept telling me I should persue it as a career and that he knew people. At the time I just thought he wanted me. But then I introduced him to my girlfriend and he was still interested. Next thing I know, he was taking us both out to Home House - the most exclusive members club in London. He turned out to be an absolute 24 carat diamond and the next week I was signed, thanks to him. We still occasionally speak and he still gets me into the VIP section of events. What’s the most outrageous story you’ve ever heard about a model on location? Myself, Oshea Robertson, Max De Mulder and Michael Armenakis got extremely wasted during fashion week in Paris, and thought it would be a smart idea to break into a construction site. We were running around mud hills and climbing gravel pits shouting this is Jumanji. It was an amazing night! Who has been your favourite designer to work within the industry?
Bobby Dazzler’s debut coverboy is D1 model, Fletcher Harrington a North-London native with the all charm of Del Boy Trotter and an uncanny resemblance to Kellan Lutz.
My favourite has got to be up and coming designer Ivan C. Nunes - he is one to watch and is such a nice guy. After walking in his show he picked me to shoot Vogue with him, which again was awesome. I also love House of Scouse, it’s like gym mixed with knitwear on acid. Which fashion campaign would you love to be the face of? The Diesel ‘Be Stupid’ campaign, it just fits, and Stone Island. When I’m older, OLD SPICE (“ hello ladies, look at your man, now back to me, now back at your man, now back to me, sadly he isn’t me...”) Who do you admire most? I admire my mum and dad more than anyone; they are what can only be described as true red-blooded Londoners. I get my charm and loudness from my dad, he is honestly the nicest man in the world and could get laughter out of a stone. And I get my blonde hair, fiery spirit and passion from my mum; she is everything to me. As for fashion, I admire a lot of my friends that have gone on to succeed in modeling. I am lucky enough that where I’m from, three other male models have come from the same area (Jed Texas, Harry Goodwins and Sam Lawson) - must be something in the Islington water. I’m pleased to see us all having our own doses of success. It’s safe to say I have some funny stories about all of them What’s the worst shoot you’ve ever done and why? The worst shoot I’ve ever done was my first shoot; it was shot really close to where all my friends hung out. They put me in a gothic dress so I was scared my friends would see. A year later my friends tracked down the photos and taunted me on Facebook.
What is your opinion on the pay of male models in the industry? The pay for dudes is great when you compare it to the likes of retail work; earning thousands upon thousands for days work, but to women’s it is dwarfed. I believe we should get paid the same, but I totally understand why women get more. Over the next few years you will see a shift in the pay. How glamorous is the modeling industry for men? The industry is great; there is glitz and there is glam. Male models hook up with the a-listers of the world and, off their own backs, get to attend some of the sickest parties you can imagine. The best thing about this all is how everyone in the industry knows each other, so you’re guaranteed to turn up to a party with ten of your friends already there; it turns into one big piss up. What’s the weirdest situation you’ve found yourself in whilst being a model? My shopkeeper realised that I was a model as he had seen me in his magazines. He then gave me my milk for free, best bowl of golden grahams ever. If you weren’t a model where would you be? Simple, I’d find a tough looking black guy, an older looking white guy (preferably grey haired) and another crazy white guy, and I would reform the A-team. If not that, then maybe look into finding three black dudes, a rusty sled and going for gold in bobsled at the winter Olympics. As you can see my goals would be high.
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FRENCH CONNECTION frenchconnection.com
PRETTY GREEN prettygreen.com
AUTHENTIC KLOVIN firstname.lastname@example.org
HUMDRUM APPAREL humdrumapparel.com
PRIMITIVE PRESS primitivepress.wordpress.com
BAILEY HAT COMPANY baileyhats.com
JAMES TUDOR jamestudoronline.com
KSENIA SCHNAIDER kseniaschnaider.com
BEYOND RETRO beyondretro.com
KURT GEIGER kurtgeiger.com
RUDE RUDERS ruderiders.us.com
BROOKS BROTHERS brooksbrothers.com
LAZY OAF lazyoaf.co.uk
SERGE DE NIMES sergedenimes.com
MAISON KITSUNĂ‰ kitsune.fr
CALVIN KLEIN calvinkleininc.com
MARSHALL ARTIST marshallartist.co.uk
SIMON CARTER simoncarter.net
CITY HUNTER cityhuntercap.com
CROOKS & CASTLES crooksncastles.com
MERCY & WILD mercyandwild.com
DEREK ROSE derek-rose.com
NASIR MAZHAR nasirmazhar.com
DUFFER ST. GEORGE thedufferofstgeorge.com
NEW BALANCE newbalance.co.uk
THOMAS PINK thomaspink.com
EASTIE EMPIRE eastiestore.com
NOK NOK LONDON noknoklondon.com
NORSE PROJECTS norseprojects.com
ERIC TRUONG boyfortruong.com
OHEMA OHENE ohemaohene.com
URBAN OUTFITTERS urbanoutfitters.co.uk
EXIT LEFT APPAREL exitleftapparel.co.uk
PETER CHRISTIAN peterchristian.co.uk
VANS shop.vans.com ZIMMERLI OF SWITZERLAND zimmerli.com
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