BMW Owners News for May 2024

BMW Classic Ball Bearing 6207 MN 20

Talk to any BMW vintage parts expert and you’ll learn that some of the elements inside your classic bike have evolved over time. Take, for instance, the humble crankshaft bearing. The BMW 6207 bearing has seen its materials and manufacturing specs change over the years and it’s well known that the standard commercial version’s cage is prone to failure. That’s why we always choose and recommend the upgraded 6207 from BMW Classic.

Thanks to advanced German engineering and modern materials science, BMW Classic’s 6207 bearing is manufactured to give you the peace of mind that your crankshaft rebuild will stay rebuilt. Available in two versions, with a brass or pertinax cage.

MAX BMW has a huge domestic inventory of BMW Classic parts for your vintage project, in-stock and ready to ship from our store in CT.

Shop our parts catalog at www.maxbmw.com Questions? Call us at 203-740-1270 or send an e-mail to francis@maxbmw.com

ED HOUSEWRIGHT #234070

JEFF ALEVY #228877

IN THIS ISSUE

Involved–Volunteer!

MOA expands Podcast lineup, Rides4Fun Brings Weekend Getaways to Motorcyclists, The National Rally goes Country in 2025, MOA Celebrates Past and Present US Military Members in May, Carry your Gear with Confidence, Bob Paquin wins the ST for MRP, Why Coddiwomple?

| RIDIN' TO REDMOND Ridin’ to Redmond? How About a Little Roaming Along the Way, An Update from Sam and Reece, Breakfast to Be Served, Ridin’ to Redmond for the Day, The People’s Choice Bike Show, A Little Love for non-MOA Rally-Goers, Win an M in Redmond, Karol Patzer MOA Children’s Rally Charity, Need a Lift?

| The 2024 Square Route Rally by Mike Seay

THE COVER While riding the Northern California Backcountry Discovery Route, Paul Guillien (#179473) pauses to admire the view ahead. The CABDR-North is the 13th route developed by the BDR organization. Photo by Ely Woody.

A BEEMER BONANZA!

My grandson will be three next month, and as anyone with grandchildren will attest, it’s been a joy watching him grow from the newborn Abby and Tyler brought home from the hospital to the dinosaur loving, mischief-seeker he’s become today. A young adventurer, Tom isn’t afraid to explore the world around him–a habit which can make his mother, and grandmother, a little frantic at times.

When visiting an indoor playground between a cruise and flight home earlier this year, Tom found his ride. Though it’s got three wheels, and the steering seems questionable, the fairing and roundel indicate his brand preference, while Tom’s smile says everything else. Though Abby may not approve initially, it appears Tyler may have a riding partner in about 13 or so years, and Tom could be riding to his first BMW MOA National Rally in 2037! I hope I’m there with both.

While the planning for that Rally is many miles down the road, Rally Co-Chairs Sam and Reece have been burning the midnight oil in preparation as opening day of our 2024 MOA National Rally grows closer. I’ve always thought that serving as a National Rally Chair has got to be one of the most gratifying, yet mentally and physically demanding of all the volunteer roles within the MOA. Spending more than a year planning and organizing our signature National event is an undertaking not all of us would even think of accepting. Based on what I’ve seen so far, the pair have not only accepted the challenge, but have been putting together a Rally sure to be remembered for many years to come.

Living for many years in the flat lands of Central Illinois where the most satisfying roads for motorcyclists are the on and off ramps of intersecting interstates, MOA Rallies set in the mountainous West have always given me goosebumps. There’s a reason the Redmond Rally site has been the location for two other MOA National Rallies–it’s that good! As Rally Co-Chair Reece Mullins said, “…there will be copious amounts of green grass to stake down your tent with a beautiful view of the Three Sisters Moun-

tain range to greet you each morning…”

Beyond the breathtaking vistas and great roads surrounding the area, the 2024 National Rally will also offer four nights of music sure to get your toes tapping. Are you camping on-site or perhaps looking for a little different experience? Check out the Overland Camping area which promises to be more active and fun with nightly movies and fire rings to gather around.

Off-site tours were a hit last year, so Sam and Reece brought them back. In Redmond, take a Lava Tube Cave Tour to satisfy your interest in natural geological formations, or take a Sunset Hike and Stargazing Walk to visit the edge of a dormant volcano before venturing down to a Dark Sky-accredited night viewing location! Additional tours are available to take you to area breweries to sample their wares.

But wait, there’s more!

The U.S. Rider Academy joins us in Redmond to offer rider training, breakfast will be served each day, and seminars will be available to entertain and inform on everything from camping and overlanding to motorcycle maintenance and travel. On top of that, there will be vintage BMWs on display, an opportunity to show your own bike in the People’s Choice Bike Show, a chance to see more than 100 Rally exhibitors, and much more.

In addition to daily door prizes, Rally Grand Prizes will give rally attendees a chance to win three M-series BMW motorcycles. The Beemer Bonanza Sweepstakes will include nightly drawings, giving away an M 1000 R, an M 1000 XR and an M 1000 RR! Drawings will take place each night on the entertainment stage. Through a partnership with Beemer Bonanza Sweepstakes, MOA members and guests who purchase a three-day rally admission will automatically be entered in the nightly drawings for each motorcycle. Members who purchase day passes or cannot attend the event can purchase tickets online at bmwmoa.org/bonanza or at the Beemer Bonanza Sweepstakes display at the Rally. Tickets for the fundraiser are available through drawing time each night for $25 each or five tickets for $100.

As you can see, Sam and Reece have been busy, but their work isn’t done yet, as they continue to add to what’s sure to be an amazing Rally. I can’t wait to get to Redmond. For the latest Rally information, visit bmwmoa.org and click on the Rally tab. I’ll see you there!

Into the mountains

Paul Guillien (#179473) guides his R 1250 GS down a rocky mountain trail along the newest Backcountry Discovery Route–the Northern California BDR.

Photo by Ely Woody.

get involved-volunteer!

By Brian Dutcher #160860 BMW MOA President

By the time you read this, we will all have been enjoying the change of seasons and some great spring rides. We can all relate to the excitement of getting out on that first ride of the year, reconnecting with old friends, finding new ones, or hitting the road on a new ride or a winter upgrade. Our enthusiasm and eagerness build up during the winter when we’re trapped inside. While most of us can get rid of this pent-up energy by hitting the road or trail, some still have more in the tank and seek an additional outlet such as volunteering.

Our club is built on the foundation of thousands of volunteers, and we continue to achieve our success thanks to efforts of hundreds of volunteers every year. What is that, you say? What types of volunteer opportunities can you get involved in?

Well, I’m glad you asked.

Sometimes, the smallest of actions can have the greatest impact. Just ask anyone saved by the unwavering assistance from a complete stranger who happens to be a fellow MOA member listed in the BMW Owners Anonymous book and app. Is your contact information listed in the BMW Owners Anonymous book? If you are, is your information correct?

Other volunteer opportunities can be found with your local or regional BMW MOA Charter Club–contact them to see how you could help at a local event. Other opportunities could be found by checking in with your Regional Coordinator to see what assistance they may need. If you are a bubbly person fueled by personal interaction, then you might be a perfect fit as a Member Forces Recruiter. Going to the National Rally or Motorrad Fest? Well, there are

Contact Brian Dutcher at brian.dutcher@bmwmoa.org

Contact the MOA Board of Directors at board@bmwmoa.org

hundreds of opportunities there waiting for you there. Do you want to give back even more? Do you have a unique, creative, analytical or technical talent you want to provide? Let us know of your interest by contacting any of the above, including any current or former Directors or MOA staff. I highly encourage you to explore these opportunities or consider running for a future MOA Board director position. As we are on the theme of volunteers, I want to take this opportunity to personally recognize and thank our current and former military members. These brave men and women voluntarily raised their hand to defend the Constitution, even if it meant trading their lives for its protection. While we take the time to honor and remember those who have paid the ultimate sacrifice this Memorial Day, we also want to recognize our current and former military members. To do this, the MOA is making May “Military Appreciation Month” with special offers available throughout the month. Current and former military members can purchase two years of MOA membership for the price of one during the month of May. Visit bmwmoa.org/thankyou to renew or extend at these special rates for the month of May. Whether you’re making travel plans to attend our 51st National Rally in Redmond, strategizing on how to bag Grand Coddiwomple points, or taking your next weekend ride with friends, please take the time to remember those who came before us with selfless dedication and reflect on where you can help. YOUR club’s future might just depend on it.

Remember, you can always make more money but can’t make more time. Get out and ride today!

See you in Redmond!

Above, Brent Howard (#234317) photographed his 2012 R 1200 GS Rallye during a ride through the Chama River Canyon Wilderness near Abiquiu, New Mexico.

Below left, A photo from a late winter ride into the mountains of northern New Mexico with a stop at the rim of Valle Caldera National Preserve. Photo by Carl Grusnick #223385.

Below right, A shot from Titus Canyon during a ride through Death Valley. Photo by Mike Monnie #204974.

Top left, A shot of my F 750 GS during a break while on a gorgeous ride through Scotland's Cairngorms National Park. Photo by Trish Hagle #226226.

Middle left, A photo taken on the St. Gotthard Pass in the Lepontine Alps of southern Switzerland during a tour of Switzerland and Italy last summer. Photo by Andreas Vollmerhausen #209595.

Bottom left, My R 1200 RT photographed at Moose Lake near Ely, Minnesota, on the edge of the Boundary Waters. Photo by Jim Sandford #217319.

Bottom right, My 2023 R 1250 RT photographed outside Brenham, Texas, while on a wildflower scouting ride. Photo by Tom Williamson #228019.

Each month we publish the great images sent to us by BMW MOA members from their travels around the globe. Send us your best images and you could have your work published in our Postcards from the Road pages. Email your high resolution images, image description and contact information to editor@bmwmoa.org.

RIDERTORIDER

Send your letters and comments to: editor@bmwmoa.org

THANK YOU MATT

I want to thank Matt Parkhouse for always writing interesting columns. His latest about experiences and trips that he has had or done in the past are excellent. Thank you, Matt, and keep them coming! I enjoy reading about your experiences fixing motos as well.

I also love Dave Cwi’s column, although it appears with less frequency than Matt’s. I always find Dave’s columns entertaining, and I wish he would write more.

I think I enjoy these two columnists so much because they are “normal” riders, and I can relate to them. They are not circling the globe with about a million other people. I don’t mean to be disrespectful, but “riding the world” is not a unique concept anymore.

I’m sure there are many other members who could share interesting riding stories from now or in the past that are not necessarily “adventures.” I, and probably many others, would be interested in reading them. Thank you.

Jodi Koller #104544 Gilbert, Arizona

THANK YOU DUSTIN!

I would like to send a quick shout out of appreciation to Dustin Silvey’s Scorpion EXO RT helmet review and his “Resistance is Not Your Friend” article in the March 2024 issue of BMW Owners News. I found the Scorpion Helmet review to be clear, concise, and very informative. Thanks to Dustin’s insight and high-performance marks, not to mention a very cool looking helmet, this particular item has been added to my Christmas wish list!

The “Resistance is Not Your Friend” article was also very insightful and motivating. As a person currently dealing

with several health issues (thyroid cancer, Charcot Foot, cellulitis infections), it appears that I will not be cleared to ride until the spring of 2025 at the earliest. Dustin’s thoughts and comments have given me some much-needed patience (my 1988 R 100 RS has now been idle for the past eight months) to address the long riding hiatus. These thoughts will also help me to prepare both physically and mentally for the eventual trips through the Rockies.

Thanks Dustin again for the insightful articles. They were very much appreciated.

John Walt #217488 Arvada, Colorado

RISK TO HEARING OVERSTATED?

I read with interest Wes Fleming’s article “The Only Ears You Get.” I agree that one should take steps to protect one’s hearing, but I have long felt that the risk to hearing from motorcycling was overstated, unless you are in the “loud pipes save lives” camp.

Many years ago, one of the motorcycle monthlies ran an article highlighting the dangers based on what I thought were flawed measurements, using uncalibrated consumer gear and inappropriate testing protocols.

Since at the time, I was working the field of audio, acoustics, and human hearing, I decided to make some measurements for myself. I got a calibrated mike, jammed it in my ear, put on my helmet, filled the tank bag with the measurement gear, and set off for a ride. This approach measured what was truly important: the sound pressure level at the ear while riding.

I rode on a variety of roads in the vicinity of my workplace, ranging from interstates to rural lanes. At no time did

the peak sound pressure level (SPL) exceed the permissible level for eight hours/day exposure according to OSHA regulations at the time.

I wish I could find my notes from the experiment, but sadly, they have vanished in the intervening decades, so I cannot say with certainty the measured SPL or provide any hard data, only that it met the OSHA standards of the time.

Most likely, that was under 90dBA, and the motorcycle was a 1985 K 100 RS with stock exhaust. The helmet was a BMW/ Schubert System helmet with a closed face shield.

So, yes, of course, riders should take steps to protect their hearing, especially those already experiencing hearing loss, or those who regularly have or who have had in the past exposure to high SPL. But motorcycling may not be the villain some believe.

William Short #27434 Southborough, Massachusetts

PROTECT YOUR EARS

On a 2001 day trip from Tucson to Tombstone aboard my RT, I was listening to Blues Brothers soundtrack on my Walkman (before MP3 players and Bluetooth existed) with regular ear buds. It was not until I returned home that I realized I had gradually increased to full volume. It took several hours for the tinnitus to subside.

From an ad I saw in BMW Owners News, I immediately ordered a pair of custommade ear buds from EAR, Inc. They were pricey, but you get what you pay for.

Now, living in Florida where it is illegal to wear ear buds to listen to music under a helmet, I consistently wear silicon ear plugs, regardless of how far the trip. I also have several Air Force buddies who ride cruisers from another brand and never

wear hearing protection because it conflicts with the image. One friend has been fitted for hearing aids, and others have significant hearing loss.

While there are many brands available, the brand I use is Elvex Quattro which lists a noise reduction of 27 dB, and I can still hear traffic noise but at a safer level.

Karl Ott #95227 Shalimar, Florida

godspeed jack

It was with great sadness and even disbelief that I read in the February issue that Jack Riepe died in October. Both tributes to Jack by Managing Editor Bill Wiegand, and Jack’s daughter, Katherine, were so touching. I am certain that all BMW readers/riders join me in extending our condolences to his family.

Jack’s articles (if they can be called “articles”) have always been the most anticipated readings each month. I have had to actually prepare myself to embark on an unbelievable journey with almost too many expected unexpected twists. Choking and crying with laughter, catching my breath and blowing my nose and wiping my tears—all added up to extreme indulgence. His long tales were re-read and then shared with others.

Jack, your unique and unorthodox

readings will be truly missed (an understatement).

Could you let me know how I could order several of Jack’s most recent books? Without question, I strongly believe that there will be a lot of motorcycle enthusiasts like me who would like to have his books on their shelves. I did try Jack’s own site but was unsuccessful. Does BMW MOA have his books available for sale online or could it have them available?

Thank you.

James Stokes-Rees #230156

Saint John, New Brunswick

saved by the archives

I have been looking for handlebar grips and remembered there was an article about handlebar wraps. I usually have most of my BMW Owners News here; however, in my old age I must have stored them in recycling? (shudder)

So instead, it occurred to me that all the issues are in the archives! Yep, October, and there it is! I don’t NEED to hold onto my paper issues of Owners News! Amazing!

Timothy Lindstrom #60027 Columbia Heights, Minnesota

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU!

Each month, the Rider to Rider pages of BMW Owners News detail the successes, failures, wishes and frustrations we all face as riders, BMW motorcycle owners, customers and individuals. As a BMW MOA member, these are your pages and we want to know what’s on your mind.

Got something to get off your chest? Tell us about it. Know a business that deserves to be recognized? Tell us about it. Got a riding or tech tip that we could all benefit from? Tell us about it. Got a suggestion for BMW Motorrad? You know the drill–Tell us about it! There’s only one rule and that’s to stick to the subject that brings us all here–motorcycling, so save political rants for Facebook!

Send your thoughts to editor@bmwmoa.org and lets all work to build a better community.

moa expands podcast lineup

The BMW MOA released a new podcast in April called Riding Into The Sunset, hosted by veteran journalist Ed Housewright (#234070). The show focuses on senior riders and celebrates their unique stories and love of riding.

Ed started riding five years ago when he turned 60 and has since logged more than 60,000 miles riding around the country. Before retiring, he spent almost 30 years as a reporter for the Dallas Morning News, covering stories ranging from murders to plane crashes to presidential elections. Ed has written six books, including three histories of the Dallas Cowboys, and is now researching a book on senior motorcyclists.

Riding Into The Sunset will feature unique guests, such as Voni Glaves, a 77-year-old Texas woman who has ridden more than a million miles on BMWs; James Owen, who has won three Iron Butt Rallies, including the most recent one in which he rode more than 14,000 miles in 11 days; and Pat Jacques, who formerly raced motocross against men and now teaches women to ride off road as a means of empowerment.

Be sure to listen and offer your feedback and guest suggestions to Ed. Riding Into The Sunset is available on all major podcast platforms and BMW Owners News Online (bmwmoa.club/rits).

rides4fun brings weekend getaways to motorcyclists

the national rally goes country in 2025

Backed by decades of industry experience and riding adventures, Rides4Fun offers motorcyclists a curated event experience for 2024.

At Rides4Fun events, riders are not only treated to a variety of pre-planned street and big-bike friendly adventure routes, but a quality lodging and dining experience as well. Plus, there’s a variety of off-the-bike excursions that riders can enjoy, from elk tours to kayaking and more.

“We treat riders like valued guests,” said Rides4Fun series owner and MOA member Fred Bramblett. “The series offers driveway-to-driveway support, meaning we partner with companies like REVER to facilitate a journey to the event destination and back. The experience is designed to enhance motorcycle travel and inspire riders to keep exploring. We’re elevating expectations of what a wonderful motorcycle event should be.”

“For years, I have been organizing informal rides for my industry friends in the Central Appalachia Mountain region,” said Bramblett. “Everything from the lodging and meals to the roads have always been well received,”

For more information or to stay up to date on rides via email notifications, visit RidesForFun.com.

Series partners include BMW MOA, Backroads of Appalachia, REVER, Alpinestars, and RoadRUNNER magazine. Current event partners are Cardo, DP Brakes, and Torch Eyewear.

Ridin’ to Redmond is just a few weeks away, and already we’re setting our sites on the next big shindig. The Rhythm & Rides Reunion National Rally is scheduled for June 19-21, 2025, in Lebanon, Tennessee.

The James E. Ward Agricultural Center and Wilson County Fairgrounds are familiar hosts to the National Rally. As the site of the 2019 Scoot Boot’n Boogie National Rally, Lebanon won the hearts of many MOA members for its central location, beautiful grounds and infrastructure, and some of the south’s friendliest people to welcome MOA members.

Familiar names will also serve as hosts for the annual event. Two-time Rally Chairs, Vance and Mari Harrelson have graciously agreed to host their MOA family at the 2025 event.

“We couldn’t be more thrilled to welcome everyone back to Tennessee. The people here are just so friendly and accommodating. It really makes for a wonderful experience and destination for our members,” Vance said.

Mark your calendars now and get ready for the 2025 Rhythm & Rides Reunion in Tennessee!

MOA Celebrates past

and present US military members in may

During the month of May, MOA members who serve or have previously served in America’s military can enjoy extra savings on MOA membership.

In recognition of May as Military Appreciation Month, the MOA is offering 50% off all levels of membership to U.S. military members, past and present. If you currently serve or have served, go to bmwmoa.org/thankyou to renew or extend your membership at these special rates. And, if you know of someone who served but isn’t an MOA member yet, please invite them to take advantage of the savings. It’s the least we can do to say, “Thank you for your service.”

When renewing, please submit a photo of yourself in uniform or in service if your unit or regulations allow it. We’ll publish a selection of photos and recognize MOA members who serve and make riding BMW motorcycles possible for all of us!

CARRY YOUR GEAR WITH CONFIDENCE

Nelson Rigg USA, Inc. recently expanded their Rigg Gear Adventure line of off-road products with their introduction of their 60-liter Hurricane Duffle Bag.

The 100% waterproof Dry Duffle Bag can be used as a tail bag to carry large items that don’t fit inside traditional motorcycle luggage and features a patented Rigg-Strap mounting system allowing riders to securely mount the bag using four Rigg Straps from four points on the bike. Made of a heavy-duty, UV-coated tarpaulin PVC material with electronically heat welded seams and a roll top closure, riders can be confident their gear will stay dry and dust free even in the most extreme weather.

Features of the 60-liter Hurricane Duffle include a non-slip dimpled base for durability, an air purge valve for easy compression, removable stiffeners to help the bag hold its shape, and carry straps which double as compression straps. The 60-liter bag measures 24” x 14” x 14” when full and also carries a lifetime warranty.

This 60-liter bag is one of ten pieces making up the Nelson Rigg’s Hurricane Collection. For more information, visit nelsonrigg.com.

bob paquin (#154077) wins st for mrp

Bob Paquin of Peoria, Arizona, was announced as the winner of the BMW MOA Foundation’s Completely Vintage ST for the Motorcycle Relief Project. The winning drawing number 7-2-2-6 was selected on Saturday, March 16, and identified Bob as the winner. Bob saw the bike in person for the first time on April 5th at BMW Motorcycles of Denver. Congratulations, Bob!

The BMW MOA Foundation and the Motorcycle Relief Project were also big winners. This year’s Completely Vintage fundraiser provided nearly $70,000 in funding to the MRP to support the organization’s work with U.S. military service members and first responders. Mike Bobbitt, President of the MRP, accepted a check from the BMW MOA Foundation on April 5th at BMW Motorcycles of Denver and said, “Thank you to every person who purchased a ticket to support the BMW MOA Foundation and the Motorcycle Relief Project. This will change the lives of service members and first responders. We sincerely appreciate your support and kindness.”

Stay tuned this summer for the Beemer Bonanza Sweepstakes, when a new BMW X7 SUV, a Gray Wolf Toy Hauler, and R 1250 GSA will be up for grabs!

why coddiwomple?

By Jay Shannon #219409

Back in 2022, my wife Linda and I became empty nesters and were looking to get more involved in MOA activities as a rider and pillion on our 2018 K 1600 Grand America. When I read about the second annual Grand Coddiwomple in BMW Owners News, we decided to give it a try.

That year, the Titans challenge gave points for photos of what you may know as “mufflermen,” or larger than life humans. On our way to the MOA Getaway in Fontana Dam, North Carolina, that April, I routed us past a quirky art installation in West Virginia known as The Farnham Colossi–a collection of several Titans in a single location. We snapped a photo of our bike and flag in front of these giants and thus, we were Coddiwomplin’! Through the 2022 riding season we captured 25 Titans from New York to Florida. With these and points from other challenges, we managed to rank 35th in the final standings for 2022. We had a total blast doing it. and we were hooked!

Last year, with my wife’s seriously competitive nature, we decided to really put the “Grand” in our “Coddiwomple” by maximizing points to see just how high we could climb and set our goal for a Top 10 finish.

From April Fool’s Day to Halloween last year, we crisscrossed the eastern U.S. from New Jersey to Missouri and from New York to Florida chasing challenges. Along the way, we found 27 current and former

capital cities. Most states have had multiple capitals–who knew? We visited the sites of 50 different distilleries, tracked down 67 “Statues, Art, Signs, and Murals of Geese larger than a Saddlebag,” rode the entire Skyline Drive and Blue Ridge Parkway, looked for spiders and searched for gold. During our rides, we quickly developed a system for capturing photos. My job was to position the motorcycle and hold our rally flag for the shot. Linda’s job was to frame and capture the photo, taking care to meet the requirements of the challenge, usually without even dismounting the bike. It was a true team effort!

We submitted over 250 photos and accumulated enough points to place fifth, and our goal of a Top Ten finish was achieved! Of course, the prize money and accolades, ($0 and none), were awesome, but the thrill of the hunt and the adventure was its own reward. We visited towns, historic sites, museums, works of art, and a few unusual things along the way (like the world’s largest hermit crab), things we never would have seen otherwise.

Registration for the 2024 Grand Coddiwomple is still open. You can join in the fun which includes tracking down beavers, ding-a-lings, covered wagons, big cats, beer, and burly men. Also, the Pony Express and Oregon Trail challenges are a perfect fit to add adventure to your Ridin’ to Redmond rally experience this summer.

The entry fee for the Grand Coddiwomple is $0 – yes, free! Go for max points or set a goal to receive a finisher’s certificate, (suitable for framing), by accumulating a mere 300 points (about six photos). You can find all the info and register for the 2024 Grand Coddiwomple at www.bmwmoa.org/page/ coddiwomple.

We hope to see you out on the road!

Jay retired from a career in agricultural finance and has taken up playing blues harmonica. He began his motorcycling life at age 11 trail riding on his family’s dairy farm and loves all things motorcycling. Currently in the garage are a Sherco trials bike, a Suzuki dual sport and a 2018 K1600 Grand America. Jay and his wife Linda live in beautiful Lancaster County, PA and love exploring the country on their BMW.

Jay and Linda Shannon

ridin' to redmond? how about a little roaming along the way?

By David Peterson #90113

It’s June. You’re psyched to head towards Oregon–or maybe you want to mix it up while booking it home. It’s a long way away and days away from work are hard to come by. You know the Interstates provide the fastest way from point A to point B, but they can be such a slog … not to mention over-traveled by most of us.

You don’t get many chances for long summer rides. Why not consider a compromise? I’ve looked at the one north/south and the three main east/west Interstates that approach Oregon: I-5, I-90/94, I-80/84, and I-70. Depending on where home is, it’s a sure bet that your fastest route includes substantial distances along one of these segments. I’ve come up with 11 diversions, points of interests, and bypasses guaranteed to please.

I-5

Did you know that I-5 is the only continuous Interstate highway to touch both the Mexican and Canadian borders? Congested through the Los Angeles basin, it tops Tejon Pass to run the length of California’s Central Valley before ascending again to the Oregon border and beyond. Redding to the Oregon border is fabulous; the valley section, not so much. Here are a couple of alternatives or distractions:

Pinnacles National Park Bypass (147 miles; 75 miles if you stay on I-5) Take exit 334 toward Coalinga on CA-198. Rolling hills mark the ascent into California’s Coast Range. This is earthquake country; you’ll pass by a junction to Parkfield, the self-proclaimed “Earthquake Capital of the World.” Turn north on CA-25 toward Hollister. Rolling hills and sweeping curves dominate this two-lane road. At the 80-mile mark lies Pinnacles National Park, noteworthy for its eroded remains of an extinct volcano. Food and fuel can be found in Hollister at the 110-mile mark. CA-152 eastbound completes the loop.

Sutter Buttes/Sacramento National Wildlife Refuge Bypass (106 miles; 17 miles if you stay on I-5)

The Central Valley of California extends approximately 450 miles along the I-5 corridor. At the northern end, a

unique mountain cluster appears to the east, a large pockmark on the otherwise flat valley floor. These are the Sutter Buttes, a circular complex of eroded lava domes just west of Yuba City. They have a colorful history dating back to indigenous times. In the early ‘60s, the Air Force built a missile complex in the north Buttes and in 2016, a reconnaissance aircraft crashed there. Rather than looping directly back to I-5 at Colusa, it’s fun to ride north along the Sacramento River to the crossing near Butte City. This will take you through the heart of the Sacramento NWR, which supports over 250 bird species. Early morning is the best time of day for this particular side trip.

Hayfork/Callahan Bypass (203 miles; 86 miles if you stay on I-5)

I suggested earlier that Redding to the Oregon border is the most scenic stretch of I-5, but I suspect many California riders already know that. What they may not know is that CA-36 and CA-3 are two of the most scenic and twisty highways in northern California. From the south, take I-5 exit 650 and head into Red Bluff. CA-36 winds its way into the coast range. The road is excellent and so are the curves. At the 65-mile mark, head north on CA-3. North of Hayfork, the curves ratchet up a notch. Gas up in Weaverville; there are no more services until I-5. The road remains excellent, but narrows and steepens as it climbs Scott Mountain before plummeting toward Callahan on the north side. At Callahan, the climb begins anew before descending into the Shasta Valley with Mt. Shasta in the distance. A truly spectacular bypass.

I-90/I-94

I-90 and I-94 are the northernmost east/west Interstate highways. I-90 runs from Boston through South Dakota to Seattle and is the longest interstate highway in the country. I-94 begins in Chicago, runs through North Dakota, and joins I-90 near Billings, Montana.

Theodore Roosevelt National Park Loop (39 miles)

Conveniently located on I-94 at exit 27 near Medora, North Dakota, Theodore Roosevelt National Park is the only park in the system named for a single individual. Medora provides access to the South Unit of the park; the North Unit is 80 miles north on US-85. The Elkhorn Ranch Unit, where Roosevelt lived, is a 35-mile GS ride north of Medora. If you spend the night in Medora, check out the Medora Musical.

Devil’s Tower National Monument (68 miles; 33 miles if you stay on I-90)

A spectacular monolith rising 1,267 feet into the Wyoming sky, Devil’s Tower is most famous for its appearance in the movie Close Encounters of the Third Kind. The monument is visible as a lone element of relief in the eastern Wyoming plateau and can be seen for miles in all directions.

Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument Loop (13 miles)

At the junction of I-90 with US-212 lies the monument to Custer’s Last Stand in June 1876. The park has an excellent Visitor Center and a scenic drive among white

marble and red speckled granite memorials to fallen cavalry and Cheyenne and Arapaho combatants.

I-80/I-84

I-80 extends from greater New York City to San Francisco and is the second longest interstate highway. I-84 branches northwest from I-80 near Echo, Utah, and merges with I-15 south of Ogden. I-15/I-84 proceeds north through the Greater Salt Lake City corridor before I-84 branches northwest toward Oregon near Tremonton, Utah.

Snow Range Bypass (101 miles; 76 miles if you stay on I-80)

Whether it’s a hot afternoon or not, consider the Snowy Ridge Bypass in Wyoming. Take exit 311 in Laramie and proceed west on WY-130. Keep an eye out for moose beyond Centennial as you climb toward 10,859-foot Snowy Range Pass. Saratoga is well known for three things: fly fishing, Hotel Wolf and a wonderful public hot spring. Hotel Wolf will house and feed you well, but be sure to make reservations well ahead. A half-mile away, a soak in Hobo Hot Springs is a great way to end the day. Better still, it’s free and open around the clock. The route continues north, intersecting I-80 near Wolcott.

View from Rim Rock Drive.

Fossil Butte National Monument Bypass

(162 miles; 112 miles if you stay on I-80/84)

Off the beaten path, Fossil Butte National Monument is interesting the moment you roll onto the property. A geological timeline, set to scale (nine inches equaling one million years) extends two miles from the junction to the Visitor Center. Exhibits include a fossil rubbing table and a wall identifying 27 species of fossilized fish. Circling back to the Interstate at Evanston is an option, but I strongly urge you to consider UT-39 through the Ogden River Canyon or US-89 through Logan to complete the bypass.

Winnemucca/Denio Bypass

(225 miles; 411 miles via Reno)

Exiting I-80 at Winnemucca is the shortest bypass to Redmond, 225 miles to the junction with OR-31; if you continue via Reno, it’s 411 miles. The first section is fast and straight. Thirty miles north, NV-140 angles northwest into Oregon, climbing and descending several valley walls. As the road crosses into Oregon it becomes OR-140 and the rest of the ride is a roller coaster of the old west. Watch for livestock in the roadway!

Gerlach/Lakeview Bypass

(368 miles: 398 miles via Reno)

If you’re captivated by the siren song of Burning Man and the Black Rock Desert, it may be worth it to stay on I-80 for another 132 miles toward Wadsworth. There you’ll exit and ride NV-447 toward Pyramid Lake. Staying on NV-447 will deliver you to Gerlach, home of the festival and access point to the playa. The state highway ends here, but CR-47 to the California border is the best segment of the trip. Entering California, you’ll pass through Eagleville, then Cedarville. If you need a room for the night, an excellent hot springs motel, the Surprise Valley Inn, is just five miles east of the junction with CA-299.

Cresting the Warner Mountains will deliver you to US-395 and the final road to civilization. If you want to play in the dirt, Fandango Pass is a rugged pioneer route just north of Cedarville near Fort Bidwell.

I-70

I-70 bisects the middle of the country, extending from suburban Baltimore to Utah, where it tees into I-15. It has the distinction of crossing the Great Plains into Colorado, two segments that couldn’t be more different. Many may argue that the Colorado/Utah section of I-70 is the most scenic to be found in the system.

Colorado National Monument (38 miles; 16 miles if you stay on I-70)

It’s easy to miss Colorado National Monument as you zip through the Grand Junction metro area. Don’t. The park’s Rim Rock Drive is one of the most spectacular in the country. Green juniper amidst the contrasting red rock can tantalize; the steep grades along sheer drop offs can terrorize. The Park Service suggests allowing about an hour to complete the 23-mile drive. Allow at least twice that to accommodate the inevitable overlooks, photos, or maybe even a hike.

There you go–11 fantastic alternatives to simply bombing westward to Redmond. We have many more, along with local routes you can enjoy when you arrive at the rally. Scan the QR code for access to an interactive map of the routes highlighted here. And remember: While it is about the destination, it’s the ride that makes the journey.

David Peterson rides an RT and a GS from his home in Oregon City, Oregon. When not in the saddle, he spends a great deal of time staring at screens and pouring over maps, laying out monthly rides for his fellow riders as an ambassador for the BMW Riders of Oregon. After loading his GPS, he spends the rest of his waking hours serving his investment advisory clients.

By Sam Garst #103463 and Reece Mullins #143779, 2024 Rally Chairs

"The Tail of the Dragon is Motorcycle Mecca,” I said over intercom to the Malaysian captain strapped into the right seat of our U.S. Army Lakota helicopter as we snapped our nightvision goggles onto our helmets. As we prepared for his second iteration of NVG flight training, the captain had just told me about his Honda CBR 600 back home in Malaysia.

The dark cockpit became awkwardly silent as I realized I had just used another American English colloquialism that not only confused my Malaysian student, but probably really confused my second-period student in the jump seat who didn’t ride motorcycles and was a second lieutenant in the Saudi Army.

For the next 15 minutes or so, as we ran up the aircraft between checklist callouts and tasks to be accomplished, I made the effort to explain the common American-English language usage of the term “Mecca” as it describes our cultural desire to make a pilgrimage to those places or events that define us as an individual or, as it turns out, as a club.

Of course, at this moment in time, the cultural intersection occurring in my cockpit rattled around in my head, as these things tend to do. For the days and weeks to come, I was left with the overwhelming notion that our club’s National Rally is the “Mecca” of motorcycle rallies.

I know what you’re thinking now. “Reece, come on man, there are much bigger and more elaborate motorcycle rallies out there. How can you say the BMW MOA National Rally is the “Mecca” of motorcycle rallies?”

But hear me out, and maybe I can convince you that our National Rally truly is the GOAT! (Yes, another English language colloquialism, one I spared my students from. I didn’t want to completely melt their minds, as they had only learned English seven months earlier and we still had 3.4 hours of NVG-training to log that night.)

As I write this for our May issue of BMW Owners News, it is mid-March–my favorite time of the year in lower Alabama. The weather in the deep south is temperamental right now, but offers some of the best riding of the calendar year. Strong thunderstorms with heavy rains cleanse the earth and force open all the flowering trees and shrubs, providing a fragrant and colorful, perfect-temperature ride with clean pavement for my tires, as the once-dark clouds continue lazily eastward on their watery mission. I savor these rides even more so now, as it has only been a few months since breaking my arm caused me to question whether I would ever be able to ride again.

It is in this peacefully pleasant motorcycle frame of mind that I find myself thinking about our upcoming National Rally and the many MOA members (and non-members) who are going to be making the pilgrimage from parts unknown to Redmond, Oregon. Those of us who have attended our National before are all familiar with the lovely trappings and offerings our club’s rally is famous for each year such as the live bands, the beer garden, the food vendors and motorcycle vendors. With local excursions both guided and serendipitous, seminars, door prizes, training opportunities, and bikes, bikes, and more bikes, it can be overwhelming to the senses. Couple that with all the hugs and handshakes from friends you haven’t seen since last year, and well, you get the picture. This is the MOA's “Mecca” for family and friends who come together once a year to celebrate our amazing club.

This month I want to put the spotlight squarely on the often-overlooked joy that one receives when planning, prepping, and then Ridin’ to Redmond. Our much respected and admired Rally Chair, Sam Garst, just recently purchased a 2011 Ruby Red GS specifically for riding to this year’s rally. As I write this article, he is marveling over the addition of having a heated seat in his stable of bikes, while at the same time mumbling

over the previous owner’s lack of prowess in aftermarket motorcycle wiring.

What I do know is that when he hits the starter switch, hears the well-muffled engine quietly come to life, snicks the shift lever into first gear, and then begins that initial roll-out from his garage on a crisp June morning, all will be right in his world. This is the scenario that will play out in almost the same fashion in thousands of driveways throughout the western hemisphere, as our rally-goers begin their journey Ridin’ to Redmond.

It wouldn’t be a pilgrimage if there was no expectation of wonder, deliciously intermingled with the possibility of adversity and one’s ability to overcome it. I remember very clearly years ago watching “Long Way Down” when Obi-Wan Kenobi (Ewan McGregor) imparted some of his Jedi-laced wisdom, saying something to the effect of, “Why would I go if the possibility of me not coming back wasn’t part of it? If I wanted to be completely safe, I could just go ride a roller-coaster at an amusement park.” I’m paraphrasing as it’s been years since I’ve watched that series, but you get the point. Without serendipity, without discovery, and the element of risk in its varying degrees, the ride simply is relegated to the realm of transportation and no longer

holds the grand title of adventure.

I recently had the opportunity to ride with Marshall “Marty” Martin, one of our outstanding MOA Foundation directors and member of the Pensacola Club. After our monthly club meeting, we mounted our nearly matching R 1250 RTs. With his, a 2023 in Alpine White and mine a 2022 in Sport Blue, off we went on a relatively short ride from Pensacola to DeFuniak Springs for lunch. While sitting outside our local café, he told me of his plans to ride his bike the 2,500 miles to Redmond. Marty plans to do about 500 miles a day, using the RT and it’s BMW connected app navigation technology the entire way–just a man, on a bike, on a mission. After riding a very gratifying but short “welded wing” formation-ride with him that day to the café, I sat, reevaluating my leave schedule for the year, and trying to figure out whether I would be able to join him on his journey.

Sam and Marty’s stories are not unique in our club. Far from it. We know that our members are going to be out there on the highways and byways riding to Redmond. Sam and I appreciate your stalwart and steadfast resolve in realigning your busy world in order to make this year’s Rally your motorcycle destination of choice. Our 2024 Rally app has been active since March. Please take the time while on your travels to capture those epic photos of your trip and post them in our Rally app, or on whatever flavor of social media you are using these days. Don’t forget that you can sign up for this year’s Coddiwomple. It is up and running, so grab those bonus points and photos of your adventures and misadventures as is the MOA's Annual Mileage Contest.

Safe and happy travels to each and every one of you next month; Sam and I look forward to seeing you at the Rally in Redmond.

Rally Chair Sam Garst's new 2011 GS.

Rally Chair Reece Mullins' RT.

breakfast to be served at the 51st!

Are you camping at the National and wondering where you might be able to find a hearty breakfast? Well, wonder no more.

For the Ridin’ to Redmond National Rally, a catered breakfast will be available each day of the rally at the Middle Sister building, with a variety of options available from 7 a.m. to 9 a.m.

Advance ticket purchase is required, and tickets are available online at rally.bmwmoa.org. You can buy as many meals and days as you like. Buy some extra tickets to share with your neighbors–a great way to make friends at the National!

Visit rally.bmwmoa.org for full information on everything Rally-related!

RIDIN' TO REDMOND FOR THE DAY?

Want to join The National Rally for just a day or two? How about inviting a local friend to spend the day Ridin’ to Redmond? Now you can with day passes for any day of the rally!

Day passes are available for Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, and guests will receive full access to the spectator areas, including exhibitor displays, seminars, the ADV track, nightly entertainment, food, and refreshments. No overnight camping or door prize tickets will be included with day passes, but almost everything else is fair game!

Day passes cost $35 for any day of the Rally and can be purchased in advance at rally.bmwmoa.org or on-site in the Rally registration at the main entrance.

the people's choice bike show and judging in redmond

By Roger Trendowski #88147

Have you spent hours and hours making your ride standout from the rest? Though you think it’s the best, are you wondering what other riders would think? What better way to show off the results of your hard work than to have it judged by your peers?

The People’s Choice Bike Show is the perfect opportunity to show your bike to hundreds of other rally goers. This event is for everyone–those who want to show-off their cool BMWs and everyone else who wants to help judge them. That’s why it is called “people’s choice.” This is not to be confused with the Vintage Bike show and technical judging which is done during the same time period. Our bike classes have been selected to be interesting with some stock and some weird.

Classes include:

• Airheads (non-vintage).

• Oilheads

• Hexheads/Camheads/Wetheads

• K flying bricks

• K everything else (Wedge, transverse, straight 6)

• F singles and 2-cyl

• S1000, Other BMW Bikes

• Most Farkled–we’ll count them (does not include tank bag or panniers)

• Mud & Bugs & Deviant–most mess covering the bike as well as most custom bike setup that varies from stock.

• BMW Sidecar rigs

Popular vote winners for each class will receive first, second and third place award ribbons. One overall Best-inShow award will be provided for the most popular bike. After the event, photos will be taken of all the bikes and posted in our annual video of winners.

Bikes will need to be lined up according to their classes no later than 9 a.m. on Saturday morning. All rally attendees are invited to come by to review the entries and vote for best-in-class between 9 a.m. and 12:30 p.m. Votes will then be tallied up with awards given out between 2:00 and 2:30 p.m.

Look for the event location in the map in the Rally app. See you there!

A LITTLE LOVE FOR NON-MOA RALLY-GOERS

If you haven’t joined the MOA or are still sitting on the fence about Ridin’ to Redmond, now is the time to get moving! Non-MOA members who register for the 2024 Ridin’ to Redmond National Rally during the month of May can receive one year of BMW MOA membership free!

Simply select “No, I’m not a member yet” when you register for the Ridin’ to Redmond National Rally, and you will receive a code via email with instructions on how to join for free.

The Ridin’ to Redmond National Rally takes place June 13-16, 2024, in Redmond, Oregon. Registration for the National is open now and costs $89 for members and $129 for non-members. To register for the Rally and shirt bundle for only $99, visit rally.bmwmoa.org, or call the membership team at (864) 438-0962.

Once registered, shirts will be available for pickup at the MOA merchandise trailer at the rally.

DESIGNED FOR BMW MOTORCYCLES

Also available at select BMW dealerships across the country

"We had a great time at the rally last year. I am so impressed with the MOA! I was invited to the Rally for free and a free first year membership. My niece was as well. We ride Honda GoldWings, so we were a little worried about how we would fit in. Everyone was so nice to us; it didn’t seem to matter what we were riding.

My dream bike is a BMW R 1250 GSA, so someday I hope to afford one. But until then I will be purchasing a yearly membership and will try to attend more Rallies.

I loved everything about the Rally in Virginia, and I am looking forward to the Redmond, Oregon, National Rally."

Peggy McDaniel

rally grand Prizes: Win an M in Redmond

BMW MOA members have a chance to win three M-series BMW motorcycles at the Ridin’ to Redmond National Rally. The Beemer Bonanza Sweepstakes will include nightly drawings to give away an M 1000 R, M1000 XR and M 1000 RR! Drawings will be conducted each night on the entertainment stage to determine winners.

Through a partnership with Beemer Bonanza Sweepstakes, MOA members and guests who purchase a three-day rally admission will automatically be entered in the nightly drawings for each motorcycle. Members who purchase day passes or cannot attend the event can purchase tickets online at bmwmoa.org/bonanza or at the Beemer Bonanza Sweepstakes display at the Rally. Tickets for the fundraiser are available through drawing time each night for $25 each or five tickets for $100.

The three nights of giveaways in Redmond are the kick-off to the Beemer Bonanza Sweepstakes, a new charity fundraiser to benefit the BMW MOA Foundation and Motorcycle Relief Project. In addition to the Beemer Bonanza Sweepstakes at the Rally, the Grand Prize of the next fundraiser to benefit the MOA Foundation and Motorcycle Relief Project will include a 2024 BMW X7 M60i SUV, an 18RR Gray Wolf Black Label Toy Hauler and choice of a new BMW motorcycle. Learn more about the Beemer Bonanza Sweepstakes and enter to win at bmwmoa.org/bonanza.

karol patzer MOA children's rally charity

By Susanna Parkhouse #56786 and Shep Brown #27510

This is an invitation and challenge to all MOA Chartered Clubs and individuals to meet or exceed the donation of the BMW Motorcycle Club of Port Washington (Wisconsin CC116) with their initial donation of $100 to the MountainStar Family Relief Nursery of Redmond, Oregon, and other locations throughout the region.

The Karol Patzer MOA Children’s Charity was started by and is named in memory of Karol Patzer, a longtime member of the BMW MOA. Before her passing in 2018, Karol created the charity and oversaw it very successfully for more than 25 years. While the BMW Motorcycle Club of Port Washington’s challenge of $100 or more per club or individual would be wonderful, even a dollar per rally attendee would help to make a difference to the children involved.

During the rally, be on the lookout for the roving 50/50 ticket salespeople wearing their bright red aprons. Shep Brown and a team of volunteers will be onsite selling tickets during the rally. There will be two individual drawings on Thursday and Friday, and one on Saturday. Last year the 50/50 winnings were quite large. Club challenge money may be turned in at the Charity-50/50 booth while individual donations can also be made at various locations around the rally grounds.

To quote MountainStar’s website, “Child abuse appears in more

need a lift?

than one form, and recognizing child abuse is the first step to ending it. Some types of child abuse are Physical abuse, the intentional use of physical force or the deprivation of physical needs; Emotional/Psychological abuse, the harming of a child’s self-worth through verbal or physical abuse; Sexual abuse, any action that forces a child into sexual activities; and Neglect, a child’s basic needs are not met by their caretaker. The realities of child abuse are heartbreaking, but there is hope! MountainStar is solely focused on child abuse prevention through our relief nursery and family support programs. We are here to help as many families in need as possible.”

If you, or your club would like to donate before or after the rally, simply write a check payable to BMW MOA, indicating “Karol’s Charity” in the memo area and send it to BMW MOA CHARITY, 2359 Hwy 101 S, Greer, SC 29651.

To learn more about MountainStar Family Relief Nursery, visit mtstar.org. Thank you in advance for your generous support of MountainStar.

Win A No-Mar Moto Lift at the Ridin' to remond national rally

All new for 2024, the Moto Lift ML-12 Pneumatic Powersports Service Lift by No-Mar Tire Changers was designed by mechanics, for mechanics. After using many brands of lifts over the past 20 years, No-Mar has developed their own, reengineering the lift to take away the quirks and deficiencies of other lifts they’ve used and built the new lift to No-Mar’s higher standards using an innovative design.

An 11-gauge steel deck offers a height range from 8” to 41.5” from the floor and incorporates No-Mar’s unique E-Track connector points for fast and easy tie down stabilization. Using common automotive air spring technology to quickly raise and lower the deck, a two-way, high-flow, pneumatic foot pedal offers infinite adjustability, and four double phenolic wheels are safer for floors and can each carry a ton of weight. The lift has been tested to 1,500 pounds using a 5-gallon compressor. A compressor able to provide 165 psi is recommended for maximum lifting power.

Additionally, the lift uses subframe reinforcement to provide deck rigidity and can easily handle motorcycle center stands as well as frame jacks. The popular No-Mar wheel vise is made from heavy 1/8” wall, laser cut tubing, and a heavy internal drive screw which incorporates thrust bearings to make the wheel clamping more dynamic.

The lift carries an MSRP of $2,495, and a side extension kit, wheel vise, reservoir pole kit, and other accessories are sold separately. For more information on the No-Mar Moto Lift ML-12, please visit nomartirechanger.com

"The 50th was my first National rally, even though I’ve been a BMW MOA member for 40 plus years. I really didn’t have an excuse to not attend since it was only 100 or so miles away and I had retired earlier in 2023.

So, my riding buddy Jim Toler and I made plans and bought tickets to the rally. Jim has also been riding BMW motorcycles for 40 plus years. (He recently joined the BMW MOA and got the roadside assistance insurance for our trip to Anchorage, Alaska, and back in the summer of 2022.

We had a great time in Virginia and really enjoyed looking at all the bikes, both in the campground and in the arena. We did the rider training course on Thursday afternoon, and we had a good visit with our BMW dealer, Morton’s BMW (Jeff Massey and his wife, Hannah) at the first timers’ get together and had dinner with them on Friday evening."

Tim Tolson #32660

tours@IMTBIKE.com

www.IMTBIKE.com

COMM SYSTEMS

We asked the members of the BMW MOA Facebook Group which comm systems they use and got well over 100 responses. Turns out about 52% of us use Sena systems—sometimes branded Nolan, Schuberth or Shoei and integrated directly into our helmets—and about 47% of us use Cardo systems.

The most-used Sena systems are the 50s, SC1/SC2 (compatible only with Schuberth helmets), 20s and SRL Mesh (compatible only with Shoei helmets). The most-used Cardo systems are the PackTalk Edge, PackTalk Bold, PackTalk Black and Freecom.

Most units mentioned here are both mesh and Bluetooth compatible. US prices are taken from Revzilla.

Cardo Freecom (4X, $261) cardo.com

Allows up to four rider-to-rider connections and is voice command compatible. Range up to 0.75 mile; two hours to full charge.

“Low profile, easy to use and my Freecom 4 has been going strong for close to five years.” —Wes F.

Cardo PackTalk Edge ($360) cardo.com

Mounts with strong magnets instead of clamps. Control with “Hey Cardo.” Pairs up to 15 riders. Range up to one mile (rider-torider) or 5 miles (group/mesh); two hours to full charge.

“We tested the range, and when the road is flat and clear, we would get a full mile of reach.” Steven R.

“I can immediately pair and ride. Audio quality on group riders is measurably clearer.” —Joshua W.

Schuberth SC2 ($349)

schuberth.com

Similar to the Sena 50R. Works only with Schuberth’s C5 helmet and allows three rider-to-rider connections. Range up to 1.2 miles off-road; 2.5 hours to full charge.

“I appreciate the clean integration of the unit into the shell.” —Paul A.

“The fact that my C5 and C3 Pro require two separate, expensive units just galls me.” —Joe S.

Sena 50S ($359)

sena.com

One of Sena’s flagship units. Understands “Hey Google/ Hey Siri.” Long-lasting battery. Range up to one mile (rider-to-rider) or 5 miles (group/mesh); one hour to full charge.

“The 50S auto-updates over WiFi while charging. Ridden thousands of miles in driving rain without a hiccup.”

—Linc G.

“Always easy to upgrade because the mounts are backwards compatible.” —Shiao W

Sena Spider ST1 ($219)

sena.com

For the budget-conscious, the Spider ST1 delivers Mesh connectivity without many bells or whistles. Range up to 1.2 miles; 90 minutes to full charge.

“I got the ST1 because of the mesh capabilities, and it’s the brand my local chapter uses.” —Scott R.

Midland BTR1 Advanced (~$133)

midlandusa.com

A basic unit available from European retailers, the Midland can connect up to four riders in a 0.75 mile radius. Bluetooth compatible, but no mesh capabilities.

it's not (quite) brain surgery: replacing schuberth's sena comm system

By Mark Barnes #222400

Inexplicably, revered helmet manufacturer Schuberth sullied a stellar design with dubious execution. In theory, having some elements of a communication system pre-installed, with the remaining components slotting into unobtrusive ports, is utterly compelling. In practice, however, this high-end German helmet brand so popular with Beemerphiles chose under-performing, obsolete electronics that cost as much as top-shelf modern counterparts. Pouring salt in the wound, only base model (non-“Pro”) helmets can be purchased without the substandard parts pre-installed, and other aspects of Schuberth’s helmet construction hinder the installation of alternative systems. I was determined to outfit my otherwise superlative new Schuberth with a great comm setup I already use in other helmets. Here’s how I did it.

First, a disclaimer: I have not personally evaluated the $349 Sena SC-1 Advanced system that’s supposed to go in my C4 Pro Carbon helmet. That price would get me the main electronic module and its separate battery, each of which could be slipped into discreet compartments in the lower rear of my helmet’s shell. Speakers, microphone, and antennae are already built into my helmet (and, unfortunately, its stratospheric MSRP). While it’s possible to find some satisfied customers, a great many online reviews contain multiple and consistent complaints about this system, including erratic/limited functionality (e.g., it lacks the latest Mesh connectivity) and non-userfriendly controls. Schuberth upgraded the Sena hardware for their new C5, but it seems the SC-2 Advanced unit (also $349) still leaves plenty to be desired, and it cannot be retrofitted into C4 helmets. A complete cutting-edge system from Cardo, including control module (with built-in antenna and rechargeable battery), speakers, and two mic types, can be purchased at close to the same cost (or less) than the additional pieces required to make the Schuberth’s Sena systems functional.

My Cardo unit happens to be a PackTalk Black, a special edition of the Bold model, which was recently replaced by the Edge and Neo, all of which have been priced by online discounters in the $315-350 range. What follows applies to any of these and may also work with comparable stand-alone systems from Sena or other brands. In

any case, it made no sense to me to invest hundreds of dollars in an unfamiliar system with, at best, questionable performance when I already own one I know works quite well. The only costs of using my existing Cardo in the Schuberth would be the $120 purchase of a “2nd helmet kit” (containing speakers, mics, and control module cradle) to allow quick transfer of the control module from one helmet to another, and the labor of replacing the helmet’s pre-installed Sena pieces with these Cardo upgrades. (Even if I didn’t already own a comm system and had to buy a whole new setup, I’d still come out spending no more—and possibly less—than if I stuck with the Schuberth/Sena arrangement.) The difficulties I encountered had nothing to do with the electronics themselves, and everything to do with the Schuberth’s idiosyncrasies.

I should have expected helmets beloved by fans of a motorcycle marque known for its quirky and convoluted intricacies to share similar characteristics, but this is my first Schuberth and I had to learn the hard way. Don’t get me wrong—I’m impressed and delighted with my C4, but there is an obnoxious initiation for newbies to endure. Liner removal on every other helmet I own (17 at last count, most of which have been retired) requires no more than a minute or two and involves the simple, intuitive separation of several snaps and tabs. By contrast, liner R&R on the Schuberth necessitated careful reading of pages 23-28 of the 47-page (!) owner’s manual (available online as a PDF and easier to find via Google than Schuberth’s website). Check your specific model’s documentation for details potentially divergent from the sequence below.

The C4’s luxuriously plush interior appears to be a single, integrated unit with no apparent fasteners; arcane knowledge is required to initiate disassembly (not unlike lots of BMW bodywork!). The process begins with undoing two nearly invisible snaps at the lower leading edges of each cheek pad, separating them from the neck roll. Plastic hooks nearby must be pulled from grooves between the EPS and shell to complete the neck roll’s liberation at the front, then it can be pulled out of the track it inhabits along the helmet’s base; this includes

wiggling free a wide tab from a deep slot at the rear.

Now the real fun begins. First pull apart the three deceptively conventional snaps holding a cheek pad to the EPS behind it; there’s also a pass-through hole in the head pad from which the rear snap must be freed and a Velcro tab along the eye port. Now unzip the pad’s strap compartment (!!) to reveal the expected chin strap passing through, along with the surprise addition of an Anti-Roll-Off System (AROS) strap capturing it at one end and exiting the cheek pad at the other (this mounts at the shell’s rear and limits the chin strap’s forward range of motion). The chin strap must be carefully threaded out through each side of the pad and the AROS loop in-between, a process complicated by the pad’s very snug and offset chin strap slots and the snagging bulk of the ratcheting buckle and excess strap-length adjusting and fixing points. The AROS strap is then removed through a narrow tunnel at the pad’s tail. You’ll need a tool to coax the AROS strap back into the pad; I used a flat-head screwdriver inside the loop to push it through its orifice. Repeat on the opposite side.

Finally, the head pad can be removed in a more familiar manner; just undo two snaps at the brow and one at the rear. However, note this component is actually two pieces with the uppermost part able to swivel a bit in relation to the lower. During reinstallation, you’ll need to ensure proper positioning of this top section, both side-to-side and front-to-back, against the Velcro at the helmet’s crown to avoid kinks or bunching.

With the liner out, the smallish (~30mm) Sena speakers, which were completely covered by liner fabric, are readily visible in their Velcro-equipped pockets. Likewise, the mic, which had just barely peeked out from

First snap opened. Hook removed.

Pull neck roll forward.

Neck roll removed.

Cheek pad snap.

Cheek pad strap compartment.

behind the left cheek pad, can be seen taped down along the lower edge of the left-side EPS. The pre-installed antennae and wiring are all buried behind more tape and EPS panels. I chose to simply snip the wiring and remove the easily accessed hardware; there’s no functional value in digging out the rest of it.

Basic installation of the Cardo components is easy and straightforward. The speakers, which have Velcro backing, can be inserted right where the Sena units were, with no need to put the matching Velcro patches in first. Because the pockets are oblong, there’s some room to adjust fore/aft speaker placement to best fit the location of your ears. I used Cardo’s kit with 40mm JBL speakers and found the pockets just big enough to accommodate their additional girth; larger speakers may pose a problem here. Also, since the pockets are deep, I used the included backing spacers to position the speakers closer to my ears for improved sound quality. Depending on your preference for mic boom length, the next step is to trim and apply the Velcro patches where you want to affix the mic’s base and sliding bracket along the lower-left EPS. Keep in mind some placements may interfere with subsequent fastening of the cheek pad snaps. You’ll also want to consider where the boom ends up relative to the helmet’s flipping chin bar to avoid contact during each opening and closure. With the speaker and microphone wires dangling near the eventual location of the control unit cradle, re-install the multi-element liner going through the above-outlined steps in reverse order. The right speaker wire will traverse the top of the head pad.

Because the neck roll slots tightly into its circumferential track at the helmet’s base, the speaker and mic wires cannot slip between the pad and shell as you’d normally expect. Instead, they must pass between the neck roll and cheek pad, then arc back out beneath the former. This isn’t quite as tidy as the usual arrangement, but there’s no alternative without more extensive modification of the helmet’s parts (e.g., opening a port through the neck roll, which would necessitate an additional hem to prevent fabric fraying). I can live with the wires as pictured; they don’t interfere with ingress or egress, nor are they disturbed by same.

Cheek pad strap compartment.

Pull chin strap out of cheek pad.

Mind cheek pad attachment to head pad. Head pad removed.

Cardo 2nd helmet kit packaging.

Schuberth’s interlocking neck roll design, along with the extraordinary width of the helmet’s lower edge, prevent the use of a traditional comm system cradle’s clip-mount, which must slip upward into the helmet between the neck roll and shell. Hence, the glue-mount option (included with most systems) must be used instead. The adhesive involved is very strong to avoid loss of your comm unit while riding, so make sure you put the mounting plate exactly where you want it on the first try; removing it for repositioning may damage your helmet’s finish and compromise the adhesive’s effectiveness. The cradle location must be far enough back from the chin bar to avoid interference with its operation, but also far enough forward to allow connection to the speaker and mic wires, as well as comfortable access during use. Also be careful to avoid placing the adhesive plate on a compound curve (like the subtle flare at the C4’s lower edge) with which the plate may not maintain full contact. The Cardo plate has some flex built into it to accommodate a helmet’s broad curvature, but sharper contours will leave portions of the adhesive floating above the shell surface. Once the adhesive has completely set (allow 24 hours to be sure), snap the cradle onto it, connect those wires, and tuck the excess back in between the neck roll and cheek pad. The system is now ready to receive the control module and provide comm services far superior to those of the SC-1 (per online reviewers).

If this is your first time performing surgery on a Schuberth, allow at least a couple of hours for this project; it’s much more time-consuming than comm installation in a traditional lid. Be patient and remember the payoffs for such a complex interior are exquisite comfort and above-average protection from wind, weather, and noise. With a premium comm system to go with your premium helmet, you may be happy to forego the quick installation and streamlined profile of the bespoke electronics.

For more information, visit schuberth. com, cardosystems.com, and sena.com. A video of this process, along with Mark's directions, is on the MOA's YouTube channel.

Cardo-JBL speaker with Sena speaker for comparison. Remove Sena microphone.

Cardo mic installed.

Cardo cradle snapped onto glue plate.

Cardo control unit in place.

down and out on my /5

By Matt Parkhouse #13272

Continuing my adventure I wrote about in the April issue of the BMW Owners News…

After leaving my friend Paul who flew home to resume his college studies, I started to head south, staying rather close to the east coast. I really wanted to get to Key West and get a good look at the South. As mentioned earlier, other than ten weeks of basic medic training, I had never been further east than Salt Lake City. When planning this trip during my time in Vietnam, I wanted to “see it all.”

At this point on my long ride, September was approaching, so I wanted to get out of the northern part of the U.S. Since departing Fort Carson in Colorado Springs in late May, I had covered close to 30,000 miles, seeing Alaska and a good part of the American Midwest, plus crossing Canada with my friend Paul. A quick session of doing the math made it clear. If I wanted to cover the miles I had left to get back to California, I would have to do at least a few odd jobs as I travelled into the South.

My Colorado Springs Hotline experience taught me that most towns had some sort of support system that usually included information and referral hotlines, casual labor places, missions, Salvation Army facilities, and even a few crash pads left over from the hippie days. I was carrying a small booklet, though somewhat out-of-date, that listed all the known hotlines and switchboards in the country. I wasn’t camping as often as I had, partly due to fatigue (the 8,000-mile run across Canada had been a tiring ride) and partly because I wanted to use the local helping resources to locate paying work. Other than one rear tire purchased with a couple of very hard days of roofing in Iowa in August, I had been drawing down the savings I had accumulated during my last months of Army service. My funds were going much too quickly!

I left Elizabeth, New Jersey, and my Aunt Jean’s house, carrying five ham sandwiches she had packed for me. Since I was now in a “looking for work” mode, I was using my hotline list and had begun staying in various rescue missions and Salvation Army hostels. Being mid-September, I was becoming part of the annual southward migration of tramps, hobos, and other down-and-outers who were heading to warmer climates, to “where the weather suits their clothes.”

My first stop was Washington D.C. Being late 1973, when President Nixon was fighting for his political life as the Watergate scandal was unfolding, the atmosphere of the buildings and monuments there was on the grim side. After a couple of days, I had absorbed enough bad vibes and continued to ride south. As I was staying in missions and hostels, the stories I was hearing took on a certain sameness. I would hear about what

lies a hundred or more miles ahead of me from folks who had made this autumn journey many times. Men would tell me which missions were good and which were to be avoided. As this was close to a decade before homelessness became a regular feature of the headlines, the places I was staying in projected a definite Skid R ow vibe. A regular topic of conversation was always “What is the ear banging like here?” In other words, what was the length and quality of the mandatorybefore-eating sermon that we all had to sit through. If I could find the opportunity, I would inquire of the staff about work around the area.

The answer almost always was, “Nothing of a temporary nature.” I did find the opportunity to sell blood plasma in a couple of downtowns. Two-plus hours of sitting in a chair with a needle in your arm would net something between $5 and $10. I would use the time to write letters or talk to the person next to me. It wasn’t all grim; I would ask about historic buildings and sites. I spent a sobering morning riding around the Gettysburg National Park. Arlington Cemetery was just too close to what I had recently left in the Army, so I gave that a wide berth. The Vietnam Memorial Wall was still a decade in the future.

One area I really enjoyed was West Virginia, featuring lots of twisty mountain roads and small coal towns. One of my favorite memories was from those few days. I was trapped behind a school bus as it wound around the curves. This was mid-September and school had obviously just started up for the fall. The weather was still warm as I followed the bus, watching a few kids as they looked out the back window at this obviously free-as-a bird person on a loaded-down motorcycle. Two contrasting lifestyles. The bus would slow and stop. The red lights would flash, so I stopped as well. I’d wave to the kids, and they would point and wave back. Kind of a flashback to the mid-1960s when I was 15 or so and I was being driven to the dentist by my mom. The Hells Angels would come thundering up and around our family Volkswagen on one of their runs. This was the time that Hunter S. Thompson would later write about in his Hells Angels book and was the very first of my motorcycle memories. Back then, they were the free birds, and I was the young kid who was trapped in the day-to-day routine. As a boy who wanted to be a Hells Angel when he grew up, I still remember the slow riding in West Virginia behind that school bus.

As I worked my way south, I finally hit pay dirt in Lexington, Kentucky. While staying at the Lexington Salvation Army there, the staff told me the local car wash needed people. I quickly rode there and found they were desperate to hire a couple more

workers. It was the week of the annual Lexington Yearling Auctions, and folks were in town to purchase potential horse race winners. I was assigned to pump gas for obnoxious Texans who were there to buy horse flesh. The prevailing attitude often was, “knock the dust off my hood, boy.” My workday ended about an hour before I was to return to the Salvation Army facility, so I would spend a half-hour or so riding around the horse farms that surrounded Lexington.

The hostel staff was happy to see that I really was working toward my goal of returning home and told me I was welcome to stay as long as I needed to work. As it turned out, as my first week of work ended, I figured I had acquired sufficient funds to at least get back to Colorado Springs via Key West. I was familiar with the casual labor scene there and was confident I could find a few more days of work to finish the trip. The manager of the car wash wrote a check for my eight days of pumping gas; I then went by the bank it was written on and cashed it. I stayed one more night at the hostel and headed for Florida.

It turns out Florida was the one remaining state that allowed the selling of whole blood. I found the blood bank in Miami that was paying, donated my pint and spent a few hours dozing under a tree in a park. Losing a unit of whole blood takes more out of one than losing a unit of blood plasma. The ride to Key West was kind of boring. It just seemed like one long bridge. While there I spent a day wandering around and touring a Cuban Missile Crisis museum. Because I couldn’t find a place to hide, I then headed back north.

I was really worn out at this point. Since then, I’ve done a couple of four-month long rides and found that amount of time is just about my limit. I was in the home stretch and didn’t do much in the way of sight-seeing, though I did look up an old Army friend in Alabama. David was a medic who really could not stand the sight of blood and ended up becoming a chaplain’s assistant. I looked him up in Dothan, Alabama, and visited him there for a couple of days. I also spent a bit of time revisiting places I had enjoyed in San Antonio during my basic medic training a few years earlier. Once I left there, it was a straight run back to Colorado Springs.

There, I stayed with my hotline friends and stopped by the casual labor office early in the morning. I picked up two days of very hard, cold work shagging cans with a trash truck. In mid-October, it was spitting snow as I ran into people’s yards, dragged the trash cans to the truck and tipped them in. Two days was plenty and I figured I had enough to get home. After waiting for warmer weather, I took off for Los Angeles. I figured I would stay with my father, catch my breath, and look for real work as an LPN.

My last night before the end of the trip was in the Bakersfield Rescue Mission, a real old-time mission with a proper ear banging threatening us with damnation if we didn’t clean up our acts. The place had painted walls that had to hail from the 1930s. Hobos jumping off trains, little old ladies in rocking chairs

(“Have you written to your mother recently?”) and breadlines alongside buildings. One aspect of my stay there has stuck with me: We were lined up, our clothing was taken and bagged up in a numbered cloth sack, we took the required shower, shaved (all using the same razor) and were given a numbered night shirt to sleep in. In the morning, we received our clothing in the bag with the matching number. A pretty grim operation.

The next day, I rode the last couple hundred miles and arrived at my father’s apartment in North Hollywood. I did little but rest for the next few days and then started a search for employment. I had transferred my LPN license to California a year or so earlier, so I was set to go. I found a position at Good Samaritan Hospital, where I had done volunteer work while in high school. Amazing what my start as a candy striper could lead to!

My two-week orientation was a downer. This was January of 1974, and the first malpractice crisis was in the news. The orientation mainly featured the patient as adversary and focused a lot on what could be called defensive nursing. After two weeks of this, I knew it wasn’t what I wanted, and to my surprise, I found myself talking to an Army recruiter. With him, we worked it so I would pick up where I had left off back in May, with me returning to Fort Carson, regaining my old rank and assignment at the base hospital. Military medicine certainly has its faults, but it is free to the patient at the point of delivery. My brief exposure to the civilian medical world showed me a lot of folks who were terrified at what their illness or injury was costing them or their family. As it worked out, I returned to Colorado Springs and the Army (much to the surprise of my hotline friends) and resumed working evening and night shifts at Fort Carson Hospital and volunteering with the Terros Hotline.

At this point, the Slash Five, at less than two years old, had right around 75,000 miles on it. It had certainly done what I purchased it for–a long tour of the country. Other than oil and tire changes, tune-ups and the odd minor repair, the bike had suffered zero problems. It continued to run well as I spent a year and a half at Fort Carson followed by my transfer to the Presidio in San Francisco.

Following that three-year enlistment, I ended up doing another seven-month tour of the U.S.! I had had enough of the Army at that point, so my long-range plans focused on going to nursing school somewhere in the western United States. This tour started in early January and would end in July back in Colorado Springs for the National BMW Rally at the local Flying W Ranch. The local shop, Doc’s BMW of Colorado Springs, had offered me and a couple of other “mechanically inclined” customers a week or so of employment during the Rally.

Following that bit of excitement, I was aiming for nursing school in Eugene, Oregon, using my GI Bill. As it happened, that was far from how things worked out. As the saying goes, “You want to make God laugh? Tell him your plans.”

Q&A: heated grip switch, reusable air filters and towing with a dolly

By Wes Fleming #87301

Q: 2017 R 1200 GS. While riding, the heated grips turn themselves on—to high! Sometimes I can get them to click to low, then off. Sometimes the switch/button gives no input. Any ideas? Also, what size is the screw head that holds the grip switch assembly to the bars? —S.H.

A: When weird electrical stuff like this happens, the first thing I check is the switch, then the connector at the end of whatever wire it goes to. You could—while the bike is OFF, please—squirt some contact cleaner into the tiny gaps around the switch, give it a second to seep in, then operate the switch a few times to move the fluid around and hopefully clean off the contacts. This is the quickest, easiest thing to do and will probably work more often than not.

Beyond that, I might try to take the housing apart to clean it better, or at least get a look at the components and see if anything is obviously corroded, bent or broken. I have a 2014; mine requires a T6 Torx driver but yours may be different.

If I felt like removing the fuel tank and air box, I’d trace the wires to their connector on the harness, disconnect them and clean the contacts, then apply a little dielectric grease, reassemble the fittings and test functionality. (Follow up!) S.H. used contact cleaner on the switch as

suggested and that did the trick. Pushing a little contact cleaner into your switches once a year isn’t a bad idea as part of your general maintenance routine.

Q: Thoughts on the DNA air filter? —L.W.

A: Yes, many. The first thought is “Please don’t.” DNA is one of a number of brands of “high performance” or “high flow” aftermarket air filters similar to those made by K&N. They require removal, cleaning, and oiling to saturate the filter’s medium. K&N says to perform this maintenance every 50,000 miles; DNA wants theirs done between 10,000 and 25,000 kilometers (6,200-15,500 miles). Both brands say to do the maintenance more often if the bike is subjected to harsh conditions.

There’s plenty of anecdotal information on both the pro and the con side for using these items. It’s great they can be reused many times, which reduces their carbon impact on our environment—but cleaning them requires the use of solvents, and then of course oiling them uses petrochemicals, so let’s call their environmental impact a wash. What it comes down to for most of our motorcycles is a miniscule gain in horsepower from a freer-flowing filter verses accelerated wear from a filter that also allows a bit

more particulate matter (i.e. dust, dirt, bug guts, etc.) to flow through. Most of the manufacturers of reusable filters claim to filter out the same (or more) amount of particulate matter as standard filters, but in all reality, you cannot both allow more air and less gunk. They also claim big power improvements, but unless you tune your engine to properly manage the increased air flow, your power is simply not going up by much.

If you’re assembling a race bike complete with open pipes and an engine tuned to the max, then please buy a reusable air filter. Chances are these people are going to service it far more often and will be working on the engine with some regularity, thereby ameliorating the effects of more dirt getting into the combustion chamber. For the vast majority of us riding regular bikes under regular conditions, a standard paper air filter is the best thing to use, provided of course you swap it out for a new one on the schedule specified by the manufacturer.

Q: After transporting my R 18 for roughly 1,000 miles—with a tow hitch and the rear tire on the street, in neutral of course—I let it sit overnight. Now I found oil running down the rear wheel. What is it? I only have about 1,800 miles on the bike. —M.S.

A:

The most likely culprit is a leaking outer seal. Replacing it is not particularly difficult or expensive— the part itself is only $25—but I think you’ve buried the lead a bit.

You towed a shaft-driven motorcycle 1,000 miles, in neutral, with the rear tire on the street and thus in constant motion. You say your bike has only 1,800 miles on it—I’m sorry to say the engine might, but the rear tire and final drive now have 2,800 miles on them no matter

what the odometer reads.

Towing your bike like this may not have anything to do with the leaking seal, but it’s difficult not to tightly correlate the two things. Towing a shaft-driven motorcycle with a “tow dolly” is definitely not advisable and is, in my opinion, at the very least a contributing factor in the leaky seal. Even in neutral, there is some amount of sympathetic movement between final drive, drive shaft and transmission. A bike with a drive shaft should not be towed in this fashion for more than a few miles (under 10) in an emergency. It would be preferable to rent a truck or trailer, or in the case of a long-distance need, hire a transport service. The same goes for belt-driven motorcycles.

If you need to tow a chain-driven bike with a dolly, disconnect from the rear sprocket and secure or completely remove the drive chain. Towing like this will cause wear on your rear tire and rear wheel bearings, but with the transmission fully disconnected from the rear wheel, there is no chance of internal damage to the transmission or engine.

Wes Fleming discovered BMWs in 2001 and has been riding trendy, not-so-trendy and sidecarequipped motorrads ever since.

In addition to his content creation and editing duties, he functions as a freelance guitar consultant and history professor. When he’s not pacing around his empty nest, he’s out looking for a great deal on a used motorcycle or a vintage guitar.

James Owen A MEMBER PROFILE

By Ed Housewright #234070

For me, a long day on the bike is 500 miles. Once, I rode 600 miles from my home in Dallas to Raton, New Mexico, and the next day I could hardly walk straight.

Now consider James Owen. He averaged more than 1,200 miles a day for 11 straight days in winning last year’s Iron Butt Rally. How did you do it, James? That’s what I wanted to know when I interviewed him recently.

James not only won the most recent Iron Butt–an amazing accomplishment–but he also won the grueling competition in 2009 and 2017. No other competitor has won even twice, and James has won three times, each time riding a BMW. He’s clearly long-distance riding royalty–maybe even the GOAT.

His victories are a testament to intense preparation and sophisticated navigation strategy. You don’t wake up one day and suddenly say, “I’d like to compete in the Iron Butt Rally.” In James’ case, he did a shorter ride certified by the Iron Butt Association before he tackled his first rally in 2003.

“You definitely have to build up to it,” said James, 68, an Air Force veteran and commercial airline pilot. “When I talk to people who haven’t ridden an Iron Butt Rally and are contemplating doing one, I tell them you have to be able to distinguish between pain that could be harmful to your health and pain that’s just discomfort.

“They call it the Iron Butt Rally, but it might be closer to the truth to call it the Iron Mind Rally because you have to put those painful things out of your mind and continue on and focus on safely operating your motorcycle–solving the puzzle and getting to the finish line. Inevitably, there’s a time during the rally when you’re going, ‘What the hell am I doing here? Why am I doing this?’”

About 100 competitors enter the Iron Butt Rally, which is held every other year on odd-numbered years. The 2023 rally began on June 19, 2023, in Pittsburgh, about five hours from James’ home in Easton, Pennsylvania. It also ended in Pittsburgh after riders traversed parts of the United States and Canada.

Misconceptions abound about the rally. For starters, it’s not a race, and the winner doesn’t necessarily ride the most miles. The winner accumulates the most points by visiting certain required locations that sometimes aren’t revealed until the night before a stage. Contestants chart their own route through back country roads and highways to reach the destinations.

James earned 151,821 points while riding 14,137 miles and traveling through more than 30 states.

“It’s all about planning an efficient route,” he said. “It’s a very deliberate process of being able to ride long miles in specific periods of times. The Iron Butt Rally is sort of a geographic scavenger hunt.”

Riders carry satellite trackers that allow rally officials to monitor their speed and location every 10 minutes. Excessive speed, in fact any reckless operation, is strictly prohibited and is subject to penalty, including disqualification.

James rode motorcycles as a teenager, then stopped riding for more than two decades as he pursued his military and civilian careers. In 1998, when he was in his early 40s, he bought a BMW R 1100 RT after visiting a motorcycle show in New York City with a friend.

“I loved being on the bike–loved exploring, loved riding, and I didn’t want to stop,” he said. “So, I’d ride until I was exhausted and then, wherever I was, would get a motel or camp out. When I got up, I’d go again. I started doing the kind of riding which developed into my long-distance passion.”

Not only has James won the Iron Butt Rally three times, but he could also have won another time. In 2005, his bike had a transmission bearing failure 800 miles from the finish line. He also had a mechanical issue in 2003 when an alternator belt broke.

What’s his secret to success? It starts with keeping the bike rolling and limiting stops. I asked James if he stopped at restaurants for meals during the 11-day rally. He burst out laughing.

“The golden rule of the Iron Butt Rally is not stopping,” he said. “The only time the wheels aren’t rolling is when I’m stopped for a bonus, for fuel or for a cat nap or sleep.”

He eats by reaching into his tank bag–usually while on a monotonous highway ride–and grabbing an energy bar, banana, apple or even baby food. “You need some moisture so you’re not just chewing on Clif Bars all day.”

He stops for gas less frequently than otherwise would be necessary because he added an auxiliary fuel tank. His 2022 BMW R 1250 RT has a standard 6.6-gallon tank. In compliance with the rally rules, he added a 4.9-gallon tank to reach the maximum 11.5-gallon capacity.

“I designed it and had a metal fabricator build it for me,” James said. “It basically incorporates the pillion seat and is mounted on that. It’s gravity fed into the main tank with an on and off switch. It’s as close to the center of gravity of the bike as you can make it to improve handling for the extra weight.”

He also mounted a one-gallon insulated water tank to the right passenger foot peg. Just as he eats without stopping, he can drink without stopping.

“I’ve got a valve on a hose that comes up and is connected to the tank bag on a retractable chain,” he said. “When I need something to drink, I can grab the valve and suck on it. Being an insulated container, I’m able to put ice in it and keep it cold. That’s one of my strategies for dealing with hot weather. If the temperature is above 110, you have to be very aggressive in how you handle yourself to avoid hurting yourself.”

In last year’s rally, James faced wide weather extremes–from near-freezing temperatures in Oregon and Montana to 100-plus temps in the South. Part of his strategy was minimizing the effect of the weather. For instance, while traveling through Texas, he rode through the night and slept during the day to try to avoid the heat.

“I was coming from Albuquerque, New Mexico, and hitting Dallas when the temperature was 104, 105, and the heat index was going to be above 115–near debilitating.”

However, he said he didn’t time his rest stop properly. When he woke at 6 p.m., the temperature still exceeded 100, and rush hour traffic clogged the highway. “I should have pushed through the east side of Dallas before I stopped to rest. It probably cost me 45 minutes. I paid for that mistake.”

Getting enough sleep is critical to staying alert and finishing the rally, James said. Riders may be tempted to skimp on sleep to save time, but that’s not a winning strategy. If he starts “getting the nods,” he’ll immediately stop to sleep.

“It’s a red flag that requires action on my part,” he said. “The decision already has been made long ago–before the ride ever began. When I need to sleep, I stop and sleep. The only remedy for fatigue is sleep. There is no other substitute. You can’t have caffeine or anything like that–you’ll get an up and then a corresponding low.”

But he doesn’t always allow himself hours of uninterrupted sleep. Often, he’ll pull off the side of the road and get a quick nap of 10 or 15 minutes to recharge himself.

“That usually gets me a few more hours down the road,” James said. “I’ll lie down on pavement–a dry, flat surface. I don’t like grass because of ants and bugs. I park my bike out of the flow of traffic. I secure the bike and lay down on the other side of it. I don’t take my helmet off, gloves off -- nothing. I just close my eyes and when I wake up, I get up and keep going.”

His training as a pilot helps him monitor his sleep and know when it’s safe to keep riding and when to stop. He has flown in many time zones around the world, often late at night. “You’re awake and alert when your body thinks you should be sleeping. I know what my body goes through, and I know what my limits are very well. I can push myself to those limits. But if you get fatigued, one of the first things you lose is judgment.”

In last year’s rally, James suffered an injury that he feared would knock him out of the event. Midway through, he hit some gravel in a turn, put his right foot out to brace himself, and

severely sprained his ankle.

“The pain was excruciating,” he said. “At first, I thought I had broken my ankle. I could not turn my foot to either side at all. I was upset with myself because I had rushed the turn…and the result was an injury that could potentially threaten my ability to finish the rally.”

However, he made it to the next checkpoint 10 hours away, and the rally staff came to his aid. “As soon as I rolled up, they had a bag of ice and told me to open my boot, and they shoved it on my ankle. I didn’t lose any time at all.”

James didn’t have any mechanical problems during the rally but had to replace his rear tire because of wear. He had planned for the change and shipped a replacement wheel to his sister, who lives near a checkpoint in Colorado.

“The tire probably would have gone another 3,000 or 4,000 miles, but I had 7,000 miles to go,” he said. “The front tire was fine–it can make it all the way through. But a single rear tire is not enough to get me 14,000 miles. This is standard practice. I always plan a wheel swap with fresh rubber.”

The first Iron Butt Rally was held in 1984 and attracted only 10 riders. The Iron Butt Association (www.ironbutt.org) has an extensive history of each event since. The association boasts more than 84,000 members worldwide and has a slogan, “The world is our playground.”

Many members never attempt an 11-day rally but earn certificates by completing a number of sanctioned rides. They include the Saddlesore 1000 (1000 miles in less than 24 hours), the Bunburner 1500 (1500 miles in less than 36 hours), the National Park Tour Series (visiting at least 50 national parks in at least 25 states), and riding through all 48 contiguous states in 10 days.

For those who want to attend the granddaddy event, the Iron Butt Rally, the association has some tips on its website. They include:

Know your limits and plan your trip around them.

Forget about high speeds.

Leave your drugs and coffee supply at home.

Prepare your motorcycle before the trip.

Learn how to avoid boredom.

For James, he tackles boredom by listening to music. He alternates between a playset of soft music and another of uplifting music. “Sometimes you want some rock and roll.” He also makes regular calls to his wife, Janet, who is a staunch supporter of his rally riding and meets him at the finish line along with other family members and friends.

“I could not do it without their support,” he said. “Janet is my biggest cheerleader and supporter. We talk on the phone on a regular basis. I’ve got my phone connected by Bluetooth to the headset through GPS. That’s one of the ways I manage my fatigue levels–if I start to get a little droopy, I’ll call Janet. That takes my mind off that and keeps me alert.”

The next Iron Butt Rally will be held in 2025, and James will be close to 70 years old. He’s not sure if he’ll compete again and try for a fourth win.

“I have to say, the competitive drive has not diminished. I love the hunt. I love the competition. I love the camaraderie. It’s a civil competition. To a person, if another rider was encountered who was in dire straits, any one of us would give up our ride to help

that fellow rider.

“Most of my competitors are in their early to mid-40s and 50s and are very good riders. They’re very intelligent and excellent navigators. They’re going to be increasingly hard to be victorious over in the coming years because every year they do this, they learn a little bit more.”

If James does compete again, there won’t be a financial incentive. Winners don’t receive any prize money.

“You get bragging rights, the esteem of your fellow riders, and a nice trophy. But I have to say, it’s more than that–it’s about how you challenge yourself and meet those challenges. You know you’re going to face adversity in the 11-day period. You don’t know what it’s going to look like, and you don’t know how you’re going to deal with it. But discovering how you react to things and knowing your limits is incredibly revealing to a person, and it’s truly life-altering.

“Every single rally I’ve ridden has altered my life and taught me things about myself I never would have known otherwise.”

Ed Housewright is an award-winning journalist and author. He spent almost 30 years as a writer for the Dallas Morning News, covering a wide range of topics, and has written six books. They include three histories of the Dallas Cowboys and a biography of G.A. Moore, a legendary Texas high school football coach who won eight state championships. When Ed isn’t motorcycling, he enjoys golf and other outdoor activities.

You can hear Ed's interview with James as part of the MOA's newest podcast, Riding Into the Sunset, available now at bmwmoa.club/rits.

GAS IT AND GO: A Judgment Call!

By Jeff Alevy #228877

As the 2024 riding season gets underway, I want to share lessons learned from a riding accident I had last fall on my R 1250 GSA, hoping the information may be of value to you.

When I was 15 and living in California, I had a dream to ride Baja on a dirt bike. Two things held me back: I did not own a motorcycle, and I had no support from my father, who had no interest in motorcycle adventures. So, the dream was put on hold for 40+ years until 2022, when I signed up for an organized riding tour up the Baja peninsula from Cabo to San Diego with a combination of on and off-road riding. It was a bucket list adventure dampened only by my lack of skill, experience, and confidence in my off-road riding abilities, notably riding in sandy terrain.

During that 40-year span, I have been the proud owner of several motorcycles, including an R 1100 R, a K 1600 GTL, and my current bike, the R 1250 GSA. Roughly 95% of my riding has been on pavement, and while I thoroughly enjoyed these bikes, I always had an unscratched “itch” for riding a big bike in scenic places, such as beautiful desert and canyon trails with burnt orange sunsets on the horizon, the typical scenes “adventure bike” marketing campaigns are made of!

Admittedly, the whole “adventure/off-road” skillset was new to me. But ignorance is bliss, as I did not realize the amount of skill and experience it takes to make a big bike like the 1250 GSA dance in challenging off road terrain.

To prepare myself for this new style of riding, I attended multiple well-known and reputable adventure bike classes, including the off-road course at the BMW Performance Center in South Carolina. Even today, after multiple trainings and some not too-technical trail rides, including a partial Backcountry Discovery Route ride in Colorado and New Mexico, I humbly consider myself a beginner+ rider in this category.

Then, to add to my experience and skills, I signed up for a dual-sport ride across Florida last fall. The annual ride is advertised as a relatively easy ride mostly on road, with a couple of off-road sections that should be do-able for most riders. As with many rallies, GPS tracks were sent out a week ahead of time, with optional routes for both pavement only or a combo of pavement and off-road. I remember thinking to myself, “How can I consider myself an adventure rider if I choose the pavement only option?”

With a sister living in south Florida, it would be easy to combine this ride with a visit to her, making the ride a no-brainer. So, there I was the day before the event, preregistering so I wouldn’t have to do it the morning of the ride.

While I was registering, I also met a group of five friends that came down from Virginia together for the event. They were upbeat, with a great sense of humor, and I could tell this small band of riders was a tight-knit group with history. We connected immediately and wound-up riding that afternoon and then having dinner at a local restaurant. I really appreciated these guys accepting my company so graciously. I also looked forward to riding with them the next day as part of their group.

The following morning, a couple of hundred riders were gathered to hear trip announcements before our departure. During this time, I caught a glimpse of one of my new friends from the day before and figured we would all cross paths shortly after departing. During the announcements several people asked questions, with one rider asking how difficult the sand sections were. The response was that there were only two sections on the whole ride and anyone with modest off-road skills should be okay. The final remark was “as in any sand, if you gas it and go, you’ll be fine!” Hearing that, I was confident that I had this ride licked.

Well, in the chaos of a couple hundred riders departing the start location, I never did catch a glimpse of my new friends on the road. Now, I am going to confess something. I probably could have looked harder for them before departing to ensure that I would be attached to their group, but I felt like I might be imposing by unilaterally inviting myself to join them. After all, I thought, these guys were all good friends who had come a long way to do this ride together, and I did not want to be “the new guy that they’d let tag along.” After the event, I thought about this and kicked myself in the ass for feeling that way. Deep down I knew their friendship was genuine and I was just letting my own insecurity get in the way.

Returning to my storyline, once I left the starting point, I continued my ride, following the GPS tracks that were laid out before the trip. Then, when I arrived at the first sand section, I noticed several riders heading BACK towards me, reversing their course to get OUT of the sand and back to the paved route. This should have been my clue. But no, my (over) confidence took over, and I decided I would keep going. It was not long before I found myself struggling to maintain control of the bike, even though I did “gas it and go” more than once.

Long story short, I wiped out at speed in deep sand on the edge of some brush. My right leg was pinned when the bike went down, and when I regained my composure while lying

on the ground, I realized I was injured. My right foot was facing towards the 3 o’clock position, and when I tried to move, it felt and sounded like there were loose pebbles in my lower leg. Looking up, I was fortunate to see one of the riders leading a pickup truck with an injured rider and headed to the nearest fire station for medical treatment. Luckily, I was able to flag them down from my position on the ground and they were very gracious about helping me into the truck. I was very appreciative of their kind assistance. Who knows how long I would have been sitting there helpless.

From the firehouse, an ambulance transported me to a hospital. There, preliminary X-rays revealed that I sustained three breaks in the tibia and fibula, with the worst being a spiral fracture with total bone separation. This ultimately led to surgery two days later with the placement of a rod and five screws into my lower leg. Thankfully, my ankle and knee were spared injury.

The Lessons I Learned

1. Before leaving for Florida, I had a set of Motoz Tractionator Adventure tires (somewhat aggressive knobbies) on both the front and rear. Then, before the ride, I made a strategic mistake by replacing the rear tire with a Motoz Tractionator GPS–more of a 50/50 and street friendlier tire on the rear. You see, I had the knobbies on from recent trips to New Mexico and Oklahoma where they served me well off-road. However, while on those trips my commuting from campgrounds to trails required me to travel on highways and paved roads, and I did not like the insecure feeling I experienced, especially when hitting rain grooves on the highway. Knowing that much of the Florida dual-sport ride was on pavement, I decided to split the difference and give myself a higher level of comfort on the street by replacing the rear tire with a tamer lug pattern. Lesson learned – As one of my Virginia buddies said after the ride, “On any ride, I outfit my bike with the most aggressive tires matched to the most aggressive parts of the entire ride.” Point taken.

2. ATGATT or “All the Gear All the Time!” I pride myself in always wearing a good quality jacket, pants, gloves, helmet and so on with full armor top and bottom. In my mind, I was protected as could be expected. I was wearing Forma high leather boots with multiple buckles. They were comfortable and protective, I thought. When my leg got trapped under the bike as I went down, the torsional force on my lower leg still caused a spiral fracture, and the boot had to be cut off at the hospital. I am not blaming the boots; just wondering if the consequences would have been as bad if I was wearing stiffer, true motocross boots. Lesson learned – As I have read in so many FB postings and other places, do not buy boots just because they are labeled “adventure boots.” Most are not as protective as real trail riding boots.

3. Review your insurance and medical payments limit. I have Progressive Insurance and because of this accident, I will be singing their praises for a long time to come. I applaud them for their response time which was only a couple of days after I reported the claim, their compassionate customer service, and the speed at which they settled both the damage to the bike (minimal thankfully) and my medical payments. Putting this in perspective, the medical bills totaled around $83,000, including surgery. The rod and screws in my leg alone came to $12,000!

My leg post surgery.

My X-ray reveals a spiral fracture.

Lesson learned – I am happy that I opted for the max medical payment option. I encourage everyone to make sure you have adequate insurance. Due to the amazing handling of the claims by Progressive, my out-of-pocket exposure was only several hundred dollars. I plan on being a Progressive customer for life. I can now see why they are the largest motorcycle insurer in the U.S., and thankfully, my health insurance picked up a small portion of the expense because even though the accident took place out of state, it was categorized as an “emergency.”

4. In my training and touring over the last two years, I noticed that the riders with the best control of the big bikes, were people who had considerable (sometimes life-long) experience in dirt riding. So, at my dirt riding skill level, moving forward I plan on saving the R 1250 GSA for rides that I know will be enjoyable on hard pack and mild off-road terrain and of course, on pavement. Lesson learned – I have tentatively scheduled off-road training for 2024 pending my recovery. Even though I am laid up in an orthopedic boot and still under physician’s care, I joke that I could ride right now if I wanted. I just cannot afford to fall yet!

5. The categorizing words “Easy” and “Difficult” to describe rides are in the eyes of the beholder and based on a variety of factors, mostly influenced by experience level. While the trip organizer thought that the two sand sections were negotiable with no problem if you “gas it and go,” there were apparently dozens of riders including me that were lulled into a false sense of security. Evidently, that organizer must have had more experience riding in sand, and so for him this section was not as challenging as it turned out to be for many others, including a newer dual sport rider like me. Ironically, the guys that drove me to the fire station called me the next day (they were kind to check on me) and said they had been shuttling riders out of that sand area all day long. Lesson learned – I need to do a better job vetting out the difficulty level or technicality of a ride beforehand with my skill level in mind. I need to not only be conservative in my assessments but more importantly, not let my pride get in the way. To be clear, I take responsibility for my judgment (or lack of) in making the decision to continue once I hit the sand. Pride, ego, confidence and determination–whatever you want to call it–got the better of me. You know, I will just “gas it and go,” and it will be fine. After all, I had ridden in sand before and thought I was up to the challenge. However, when I started losing control I could have/should have stopped to further assess the situation but did not. Sometimes, pride can be a terrible thing! Lesson learned - one takeaway for me was to act more conservatively when matching my perceived skills with the technicality of the ride. I HUMBLY accept my limits and plan on riding within them.

6. Thank God that I was alert enough in the ambulance and at the hospital to communicate my health history and allergies. It made me think about how that would have taken place had I been unconscious. Upon returning home, I purchased a $12 Med alert type of neck chain on Amazon engraved with my allergies, family contact and blood type noted on it. I replicated that information on an engraved metallic card which I now carry in my jacket when riding. A perfect complement to my Garmin inReach Messenger which I carry as well. Lesson learned – think

ahead and prepare for worst case scenarios.

7. Lastly, I was so appreciative of the riders from Virginia that invited me into their group. These guys were so gracious and sociable the day before the ride. Let me share what kind of people they are. During the ride they reached out to me because they had not seen me. By that point I had already been ambulanced to the nearest hospital and was lying in the emergency room. I answered the phone and shared what happened to me. The following day, this group of extraordinary people who I knew for less than 24 hours split up and coordinated picking up my truck and trailer from my hotel while two of them rode out and pulled my bike out of the bush and onto the road to be loaded into my trailer. Then they met up with my brother-in-law near the hospital to hand off the truck and trailer (with my BMW inside). I have often heard about the brother/sister hood and unselfish acts of kindness in the riding community. I have now lived it. I am getting goose bumps as I write this as I think back to the selfless and caring actions this group took as part of my rescue. I am humbled and appreciative that we met at this event. We continue to correspond about future rides together. Lesson learned – I was blessed to meet these new riding friends. Never underestimate the generosity and goodwill that people are willing to share. And, pay it forward.

I am now four months post-surgery, off my crutches, and starting to walk around again in an orthopedic boot. Recently, I had to have a second surgery to remove two of the screws and have a bone graft to facilitate quicker healing. It goes without saying that I am anxious to resume full activity, including riding! The doc says maybe by summer I will be good to go. I am hoping and praying.

I am confident for a full recovery, but know at this age I do not heal as fast as when I was 30. Thankfully, I am in good physical condition and believe that, combined with a determined will to heal, does make a difference.

And by the way, to better train and improve my off-road skills I recently purchased a dual sport Honda CRF450RL. I expect it will help me build confidence. The Honda weighs half that of the 600-pound BMW beast and should be easier to maneuver and recover from mistakes. I am expecting less angst and more fun on varied terrain and trails. I love my R 1250 GSA and have resigned myself to understanding where I should and should not tread with it given my technical riding abilities. I am anxious to get back on it.

I hope that reading this story might prompt you to think about, and maybe even improve, your own riding experience, outfitting, and safety considerations for wherever your riding adventures take you! Safe and happy riding to each of you!

Jeff is a retired non-profit executive who spent his career serving the public and community. Recently relocated to Missouri with his wife and grey Pitbull, Jeff is completing the construction of a log home for the next chapter in life. He likes to travel and has southwest geography riding envy! Jeff’s stable includes a BMW R 1250 GSA and a recently acquired Honda CRF450RL. He’s a big believer in training and ATGATT.

RUTA 40…

By Alan Toney #124362

Bariloche to San Julián

The town had seen better days. It smelled of rotted seaweed, dead fish, and diesel oil. And it was noisy, with clanging ranchera music, car horns, trail bikes, and scooters whining like outboards. On a muddy road near the dock, a pub’s neon sign, minus a few letters, reflected in a puddle and invited us inside. It was time for a couple of cold Quilmes, Argentina’s national brew.

Feeling a bit like Butch and Sundance, we pushed aside the swing doors, moseyed into the smoke and gloom, and bellied up to the bar.

“¡Oye boludo! ¿Quieres bailar con mi mujer?”

Sam asked, “What did he say…that guy over there, with all the empty beer bottles?”

I replied, “He said, ‘Hey dude, ya wanna dance with my woman?’ Not sure if he was talking to you or me. Check out his eyes. They’re pointed in different directions. Could be the Quilmes.”

We checked out his woman. Her legs were like his eyes. She could barely stand, let alone walk or dance. Ditto the Quilmes.

“Careful, Sam. Don’t know whether the guy’s giving you an invitation or questioning your dubious intentions. Argentinian Spanish can be tricky. It’s full of nuance and innuendo. Look how he’s holding his beer bottle. That’s not a good sign.”

Sam gave him the once over. He sneered back, bog-eyed, at Sam. Not at me. I’d already faded into the wallpaper.

“C’mon Sam. Finish your beer. Quick. Let’s go for a nice long walk in the freezing rain instead.”

Sam and I were riding from Bariloche to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. We were in Puerto San Julián, one of just a few dots along the way.

We spent the first two days in Argentina’s picture-perfect Lake District, getting used to our F 700 GS rentals and resting up before our long slog through Patagonia. All one quarter of a million square miles of it. But we soon tired of Bariloche’s faux-Swiss cuteness and its gnomein-the-chocolate-shop vibe, so we rode the Circuito Chico loop by Lago Nahuel Huapi.

passed through here 70 years ago, and Che’s been dead for more than 50. Executed in Bolivia. They left no trace here, except for a couple of diary entries.”

Back at the cabin, we flipped through our trip notes and pored over a rudimentary map of the way south. It showed only a handful of dots, small dusty settlements mostly, with lots of “empty” in between. In the margin of the map, I scribbled:

When we hit Patagonia, south of Bariloche, there were no shortcuts. Give it full throttle. It’ll be a windy ride, blowing hard from right to left, and getting stronger as we ride south. So, it’s heads down, keep the mountains on our right, and keep a lookout for guanacos.

The first three days on La Mitica Ruta, RN 40, will be the hardest miles. Some paved, some dirt, and some ripio (gravel); some of it good, and some bad, deep and loose. A mix of long straight bits and lots of twisties, really tight ones. Must take food, water, spare tires, first aid kit, tool kit, spare gas can, and flares. Beyond Esquel, there’ll be only tiny towns and villages, with less than a handful of gas stations, fewer restaurants and hotels, and no cell phone coverage for about five hundred miles.”

Keep the mountains on your right

High on a bluff, looking over the lake, I thought I spied the ferryboat, Modesta Victoria, with La Poderosa II, a 500cc Norton strapped to its deck. And there they were! A youthful Ernesto Guevara and his friend, Alberto Granado, laboring at the pumps, working their passage west towards the Chilean shore. They were off to discover the real South America, but ended up finding themselves instead.

“Must have been the sun’s reflection on the waves playing tricks on my eyes,” I said.

“More like wishful thinking,” chipped in Sam. “Those two

Notwithstanding the inherent dangers to life and limb, the word “boring” crossed my mind. “But wait a minute, Alan,” I chided myself, “don’t forget that Bruce had a great time down here.” I was reminded of the fanciful Mr. Chatwin, who turned his 1970s travels into a best-seller. In his book, “In Patagonia,” he defined the region not by its flora, fauna, topography, or climate, but by the cast of colorful and eccentric characters that he met at almost every turn. “Just my cup of tea, then. This is going to be a fun ride.” I was smiling again.

The first few miles of RN 40 south of Bariloche were asphalt, fast and straight. We were on the cusp of Patagonia proper, with the valleys broadening and flattening. Around 11, we took the RP 71 turnoff to Cholila, for a 30-minute, white-knuckle ride on squishy gravel to the old homestead of James “Santiago” Ryan and Mr. and Mrs. Harry “Enrique” Place, comprising a fourroomed, rough-hewn, log ranch house, with a bunkhouse, stable, chicken coop, and two corrals. All buildings were constructed in the style of the Old West.

Today, the main house stands empty and locked, creaking under the ever-present westerly winds. The next-door neighbor and de facto caretaker showed us around. I had an image of its former glory from an article by Primo Caprara, a Bariloche architect and one-time overnight guest. Sometime around 1902, he wrote:

…the house was simply furnished and exhibited a certain painstaking tidiness, a geometric arrangement of things; pictures with cane frames, wallpaper made of clippings from American magazines and newspapers, and many beautiful weapons and lassos.

Of the inhabitants, he wrote:

…the two men were upright, laconic and nervous, with intense gazes, especially the taller one. He was not so much a bad

character, but a cold-blooded one. The lady, who was reading, was well-dressed. She was tall, wore her hair in the style of a man, and was reputed to be a good rider and an expert with a revolver. She never wore dresses, just pants and boots. She was free, forward, and very playful.

Caprara was describing the ménage à trois of Butch Cassidy, the Sundance Kid, and his erstwhile girlfriend, Etta Place. The trio had renounced their railroad-robbing ways to settle down and farm peaceably in the Chobut valley.

Butch wrote home to family in Utah:

… we have 300 cattle, 1,500 sheep, 28 good saddle horses and two men to work the range, and we grow all kinds of small grains and vegetables without irrigation. We like the place better every day and think we are located here for good.

But it was not to be. After only four years of homesteading, their cover was blown, and Pinkerton agents were dispatched, not to arrest and return them to the States, but to kill them on the spot. Mr. E. H. Harriman of the Union Pacific Railroad demanded nothing less.

I stood for a while in the main room of the cabin, tapping my foot to the rhythm of a distant guitar. Sundance was playing a Zamba. Butch sat in his Tonet chair, as oil lamps cast multiple shadows of Etta dancing with visiting Governor Lezana…

“You’re daydreaming again!” Sam interrupted. “You need to say your goodbyes. NOW!” Those three must be moving on. The Pinkertons are dogging their heels, and we still have a long way to go, to make Esquel by nightfall.

“¡Que les vaya bien!” I shouted desperately, as Butch, Sundance, and Etta spurred their horses west towards the Chilean border. As I swung my leg over the Beemer and turned the key, I leaned across to Sam and asked, “So, what are the chances of a Bolivian ride sometime soon? We need to know how their story ends.”

“Dream on,” said Sam. “No, Dammit. On second thoughts, don’t dream anything. Just ride.”

We tracked south for hours on good gravel, running the length of Los Alerces Parque Nacional past its glacial creeks tumbling off the Andes, past its pristine mirror lakes and primordial alerce forests. Think California’s giant sequoias. At the south gate of the park, we headed into the Welsh enclave of Trevelin for a cup of tea, then on to Esquel for the night.

Argentina’s famous narrow-gage steam train, La Trochita, also overnights there. When she’s running that is. The old girl is showing her age these days.

Paul Theroux dubbed her “The Old Patagonian Express,” but the little train rarely hits more than 20 mph nowadays, forever running the risk of derailment due to high crosswinds, collisions with meandering cows, and ice buildup on the rails.

The next morning, south of the rusty cattle town of Gobernador Costa, RN 40 turned to gravel, with intermittent stretches of new asphalt. Onwards we rode through humdrum Rio Mayo (population 3,500 humans and 800,000 sheep) and Perito Moreno, a

Watch out for guanacos.

characterless crossroads of sorts, and ever southward to Bajo Caracoles (population 30), where we called it a day, bunking in a roadside flophouse. With the only gas pump, the only land-line telephone, and the only bar-restaurant-cum-provisions store, Hotel BC was the only game in town. There, we spent the best evening of the whole trip, munching on overpriced empanadas and sipping ice-cold Quilmes, with hikers, bikers, rock climbers, and hitchhikers, all on their way to, or from, somewhere else.

La Mitica Ruta 40 parallels the backbone of the Andes for most of its 3,246 miles, running from La Quiaca at the Bolivian border to Cabo Virgenes on the Atlantic coast. Rivaling Chile’s Carretera Austral and US Route 66, it is Argentina’s quintessential road trip, passing though 20 National Parks and by countless turquoise lakes and ancient forests, multi-colored rock formations, volcanic lava fields, massive glaciers, and semi-arid steppes.

Sam and I saw less than a third of it. In Patagonia, we rode through desolate semi-desert, and through monotone wild and beautiful grasslands, where guanacos, sheep and silver foxes eked out an existence. Emptiness and distance dwarfed us under Big Sky. Silence was the only sound we heard for hun-

dreds of miles.

At the dusty backwater oasis of Gobernador Gregores, we said our goodbyes to RN 40 and headed east on RP 25 for the final four-hour run into Puerto San Julián. It rains in Puerto San Julián less than 30 times a year, but on this day, a frog strangler lay in wait.

The hotel was bedecked in a string of fairy lights, peeling paint, and a swayback porch. We scored a room with no lock on the door, three single beds, two chairs, and a naked light bulb that worked. The price was right. We changed out of our wet gear and went in search of a bite and a brew…“¡Oye Boludo! ¿Quieres bailar con mi mujer?” …you know the rest.

The following morning dawned cold, bright and dry. Another rest day, before the final push to Ushuaia. Down on the waterfront we came across a replica of the caravel Victoria, Magellan’s flagship, marooned on land and frozen in the year 1520. The mannequins aboard looked life size, as they hoisted sail, but the ship looked tiny against the backdrop of the Atlantic. Did it really sail all around the world?

We took a semi-rigid tour into the bay. Commerson’s dolphins, the smallest of the species, played, leapt, and spun about our

Victoria, frozen in the year 1520.

bow, as we motored out to Justice Island. That is where Magellan raised gallows and hung the “drawn and quartered” bodies of two of his mutinous captains. Mendoza had been stabbed in the throat, and Quesada beheaded. A third, Cartagena, was marooned to a certain death by starvation. In 1520, the only inhabitants of the desert coast were the nomadic, indigenous Tehuelches. Puerto San Julián was the name given only to the anchorage by Antonio Pigafetta, chronicler of the voyage.

Francis Drake dropped by the island 58 years later, wintering his ships before making passage into the Pacific. I tried to imagine him dining with gentleman friend Thomas Doughty, who he had found guilty of incitement to mutiny. I tried to imagine the silver plates and goblets, the viol and trumpets, as they drank to each other’s health and took communion together, before Doughty embraced Drake, prayed for the Queen, then laid down his head and lost it to the sword.

Today, there are no signs of the gallows or graves of the four adventurers that lost their lives there. All is returned to the earth, lost under the sand. Only cormorants, shags, skuas, and terns bear witness to that history.

A few miles up the coast, we went ashore on a spit of pebbles and sand, the Austral summer home of pelagic Magellanic penguins…130,000 of them. Here they come ashore to mate, nest, and raise their chicks, before returning to life at sea. They were a sorry looking bunch, the chicks not yet fledged, the adults in molt, all sheltering in their burrows against the ever-present wind. To add to their misery, climate change has dried out the marsh behind the spit, allowing silver foxes to invade from the mainland to feast on chicks and adults alike.

Puerto San Julián was first settled in 1901 by Scottish sheep farmers, who brought their corriedales over from the Falklands Islands. The sheep prospered and a new industry was born across Patagonia. In 1912, the Swift Meat Packing Company established a freezer plant a few miles north of town. Wool was shorn, the meat rendered, and the offal and bones dumped on the shoreline. The rusted skeleton of the complex remains to this day, standing stark against the horizon, while bleached sheep bones still wash ashore at the penguin colony. The males use the fragments to decorate the entrances to their burrows. A mating ritual of sorts, I suppose.

Back at the dock, we faced a second evening in nothing-todo-ville. We grabbed a quick bite from a burger ’n beer stand on the sea front, then trudged back to our no-tell-ho-tel. After packing for the next day’s ride, I made running repairs to my riding jacket under 40 watts of light bulb, while Sam crashed. Poor little muffin. He’d been counting penguins all day.

Puerto San Julián is a pleasant, laidback stop along the way. It makes a living from tourism, with its traces of history and wildlife tours, but times they are a changin’. A new seafood packing plant has come to town, and coal and oil have been discovered thereabouts. Maybe the town will get a muchneeded, new coat of paint in the process…

En route to meeting Sam in Bariloche, I had stopped off in Buenos Aires and wandered around downtown for a couple of

days. The Plaza de Mayo is the historic, political nerve center of the capital. It was there I came across a protest camp of homeless war veterans, with their ragged tents, beds and small cantina. They are old now, some missing limbs, others their sanity, but once they were young; untrained and ill-equipped conscripts sent off to fight a war they never understood.

The Falklands (Malvinas) War was a short, violent and humiliating defeat for Argentina. When the vanquished came limping home, they were derided by the public and ignored by the authorities. Forty years later, there they sit, with their flags, vigil candles, protest signs, petitions, and donations bucket. Such is the glory of war.

There are no scheduled flights these days from Puerto San Julián’s tiny municipal airport, but in 1982 it was the closest launch point for air strikes on British assets in the Falklands. On the way out of town, we stopped at a waterfront memorial with a Mirage 1A1 Dagger sporting “kill” markings for its attacks on three British warships, the HMS Arrow, the Antrim and the Avenger. The memorial honors those local heroes who “willingly gave their lives for the glory of…” The usual rhetoric.

Two kilometers west, we rode past another memorial-cumprotest site. It proclaimed: Los Malvinas son Argentinas. At the intersection, we turned left on RN3, south towards Ushuaia…

Below, Magellanic penguin colony, Puerto San Julian. Sam counted them all. Right, Falklands War memorial.

Right, Bursting into song on the Beagle Channel then nterrupted by Sam. Below, The lonely little lighthouse at the end of the earth.

After leaving Puerto San Julián, it took three more days, including a ferry ride and two border crossings, before reaching Ushuaia. Then, we rode 30 miles beyond, to where the gravel meets the sea. Later, we turned in our rental bikes and took a boat tour along the Beagle Channel where we gazed upon sea lions galore, Magellanic and Gentoo penguins, dolphins and pigmy right whales, shags and cormorants…and one very lonely lighthouse.

We had survived Patagonia and made it to Ushuaia, at the uttermost end of the earth. We were afloat, under a cloudless, cerulean sky, with the last vestiges of the snow-capped Andes as backdrop. I hailed the ghost of Captain Fitzroy on the HMS Beagle, as he took soundings for his hydrographic survey and waved at a young Charles Darwin, who was studying a family of Yaghan indigenous on the north shore.

Argentinian Afterwords

Outside of the big cities, you’ll rarely see a traffic light, stop sign or highway signpost, especially in Patagonia. There are none in Puerto San Julián. Intersections without traffic lights function like four-way stops…without the stop signs. The vehicle that arrives first at the intersection, with the toot of the horn, claims the right of way. Pedestrians, cyclists and bikers count for nothing.

Ruta 40 is, at long last, being paved. Future adventurers run the risk of dashing from A to B, therefore missing the quirky settlements and the eccentrics who live within, but the road will always run through no-man’s land, through “the Old West with an accent.”

It’s the ultimate road trip. Ride it slowly. Soak in the solitude. It will never leave you. And don’t run into a Quilmes beer truck. They’re really big!

When Alan retired in 2003, he bought his first motorcycle and went for a ride.

In his travels across six continents, through no fault of his own, he crossed paths with the ghosts of Butch and Sundance, Jimi Hendrix, Che Guevara, Muhammad Ali, Nelson Mandela, and Brigitte Bardot, to name but seven.

Later, he was persuaded to write about his encounters and, to date, despite being an engineer, he has more than 40 short stories in his collection. At 80-something, Alan is still searching for the Meaning of Life, but most days he is happy enough just to find his car keys.

Quilmes beer trucks are REALLY big!

RIDE

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Motorcycle Relief Project is a 501(c)3 nonprofit that provides relief to male and female veterans and first responders with PTSD and other related issues by taking them on week-long adventure motorcycle relief rides.

the new networking

By David Cwi #28490

I had to increase the volume on my cranial-embedded hearing amplifiers, but I could eventually make out the young boy’s words. With the new neural networks, all I had to do was think it and lo and behold, there he was.

“What’s up young man?” I asked.

I loved the fact that I could spin the chair simply by thinking it. In fact, I understand that even the folks in cars and trucks can do that as long as they are connected to the new worldwide satellite networks. It took a while, but these systems sure did stop all the mayhem in the sky with personal flying cars crashing into one another. While on the ground, accidents are a pretty much a thing of the past. I mean put on your Apple glasses, point and click your destination on the virtual GPS and with a blink of an eye, off you go.

“Is it true?” he asked.

Well, back to the real world and time to focus on the next generation.

“Is what true?” I replied.

“Is it true that there were motorcycles people could actually ride? I mean how did they do that without getting smashed? I really get a kick out of the simulations on the roads-as-they-were platform. But what was it really like?” he asked.

The question made me realize that there are few of us left who remember life before the networks took over. Yes, we got smashed occasionally, but that was not because we needed the networks to survive. Half the fun of it was surviving the roads as they were and the weather thrown at us.

“Young man. It’s a long story. If you’ll stay around, I’ll tell it,” I promised.

“You must understand the perils that we “bikers” encountered. And some of that was other bikers. In the end, society’s desire to avoid risk put an end to risky things like motorcycles. (They called us riders “organ donors.”) Most often it was not our fault, but the social cost was not tolerable to those who controlled policy, and the network removed both risk and legal fault from the equation. I don’t know where to start but can share what happened to me that put me in this chair.

“It wasn’t the fog. But with climate change there were much quicker weather changes, and the fog got worse. I want you to imagine that the roads were not controlled at all. People could go as fast as they wanted. Even though speed limits were posted, lots of folks ignored them.

“I remember one night being on a two-lane road somewhere near the Appalachian Trail when BANG, the night disappeared. I was scared to death as the fog set in, and my bright lights bounced back at me as a wall of bright wet light. I’m not sure what scared me the most. Surely, if I missed a corner, I was either going head on into someone coming the other way or going off the side of the mountain. But I was afraid to stop as I could not see the shoulder and wondered, of course, if someone would come along and hit me from behind.

“Back in the day, you did not want to be on a motorcycle in the dense fog even on the big roads. If I saw the big rigs pulled over, I’d pull in front of one of them and get off the bike and work my way up an embankment as I was certain someone was going to rear end the rig. I didn’t want to be around to be part of that.

“But other bikers were scary, too. Back then, the Germans made road bikes but were fixated on placing mirrors low, thus making them useless. They did these funny looking off-road adventure bikes that did have higher mirrors, and we’d try to put those on our road bikes. Still, you had blind spots.

“Bikers on all types of bikes, but especially the American-made HD brand, would often not obey the lane markers. At least you could hear those (usually not soon enough) unlike the electric bikes. You would be cruising along not often looking in your mirrors and BAM one of these bikers and then another would pass you. I’m serious! They’d pass you IN THE SAME LANE!

“No, we didn’t wear exoskeletons back then–who gave you that idea? Did someone tell you that we popped wheelies then slid off the bike and down the road? That’s what we used to call an urban legend. Your mother might have told you a story like that about the time I had vertigo and did put a bike down and slid behind a truck onto the shoulder, but our bodies took the blow, not some fancy suit. Yes, eventually the insurance companies stepped in and began to mandate change. That change included more body armor, and if you ever had an accident, they pulled your ticket to ride. To keep riding, guys and gals would simply not report accidents.

“But the roads themselves were the problem, and the network still wasn’t able to deal with all the road problems. For those of us on bikes, it did not matter that radar and camera imaging systems were tied to our braking systems and front-end swerve initiation modules. Stuff

not strapped down to some pickup truck in front of you could still come flying off and hit you or just sit there waiting to be hit. Those safety systems did not see those obstacles. Holes in the highway did not go away.

“I can still remember my friend Peter and I coming back from a coast-to-coast blast with a stop on the way in Winslow, Arizona, made famous by some singing group. That interstate had yet to be converted, and, as we rolled along, we could see vehicle brake lights blazing and vehicles swerving ahead of us like a bad disaster movie.

“Suddenly and a bit too late, we saw the problem. A truck with cement blocks used to build patio walls was dropping them onto the highway. Soon, in front of us was a gauntlet of tall bricks, and though we weaved through them as best we could, I hit one near the end. That is the sort of thing you had to deal with back then and still do. It’s not surprising that the only two-wheelers you now see are the scooters used for deliveries and local rides.

“Hitting one of those bricks bent my front rim so the tubeless tire leaked air. Then, about every 30 minutes the air pressure sensor would alert me to the tire’s low pressure. While I always had an air pump with me, stopping that often was a pain. Eventually, Peter had to get back to Canada, and I was grateful that he did not want to leave me, but I did not want to be a burden on him.

“Eventually, we found a truck stop and I told him to gas up and go. That ride stays in my memory when I picture what we used to call a ‘Truck Stop.’ They still have them, and big trucks use them for sleep layovers as they have showers and things truckers might want to buy. But the network is going to direct you and your mom to the new automatic charging station with a restaurant and RV hookups.

“The worst case I ever had was when I had to have my bike towed. But back then truck stops were the kind of place you could buy lots of stuff and lo and behold, they had some sort of aerosol to fix flats. I’m not sure it was intended for a motorcycle, but I emptied the container into the front tire and then pumped it up as high as my small air pump could, then crossed my fingers.

“I’m guessing we were in Missouri, and in those days, I added fuel cells to the bikes to further my riding distances between fuel fill-ups. I knew I was one big tank away from home if the tire held air and to my stunned surprise, the tire held air, but naturally there were other problems.”

“Why did you say ‘naturally’ PaPaw? Did you always have problems?” the boy asked.

“Well, we did that ride. Occasionally you could be riding along and see the rain in the distance and misgauge when you would hit it. I hit a wall of rain and remember well that I was not in my rain suit.”

“Well, what would happen now if bikers on the network hit a wall of rain?” he asked.

“Buddy, riders have to signal their desire to disengage by changing the destination in their GPS. Then signal to change lanes and wait for the network to get them to the next off ramp,” I replied.

“You mean even today bikers could get soaked before they could put on their rain suits?” he questioned.

“Oh, for sure,” I said.

There was then a silence.

“PaPaw, being a biker back then does not sound like it was much fun,” he stated.

“Donnie, we had fun back then and dealing with risk was part of the equation. We practiced our skills. We looked forward to the fellowship of the ride and the experience of the ride and the novelty of what nature threw at us,” I confirmed.

“Sounds too dangerous to me,” he concluded.

“Well, you are the up-and-coming generation, but if your point of view is the prevailing one, I guess we will not be seeing you on two wheels down any real road.”

Dancin’ Dave Cwi is a Life Member of the MOA as well as a Premier Member of the Iron Butt Association. He’s owned every series of BMW motorcycle from the Slash 2 to the modern RT, and has burned out his wife, who once loved motorcycling but sold her bikes after two trips with Dave. He pays for his riding addiction via marketing stints, including work in powersports. You will see him down the road.

Over 40 essays, features, reviews, profiles and memoirs focusing on the two-wheeled life from the author of the acclaimed Shiny Side Up.

I’ve enjoyed Ron Davis’s columns and stories for a long time…he does what all the best motorcycle writing does: he makes you wonder why you aren’t out there riding your own bike, right now, except during the long Wisconsin winter, when his work simply helps you stay sane until spring.”

—Peter Egan, Author of Leanings 1, 2 & 3

The best books on motorcycling and adventure travel

ISBN 978-1-890623-74-6, Softcover 252 pages, $19.99 SRP

farklemania

By Mark Barnes, Phd #222400

Consider this the sequel to my recent essay on new bike fever. Let me start by saying I hate the term, “farkle.” To my ear, it sounds like an onomatopoeia for triviality and frivolity (if those characteristics made noise). Lots of farkles really are superficial, silly and serve no meaningful purpose, at least not in terms of a motorcycle’s physical functioning: Color-matched, logo-embossed valve stem caps, anyone? But many accessories and modifications are quite substantive, and even those that are primarily decorative enhance the bike’s “aesthetic functioning” in the eyes of its owner. Despite my distaste for the f-word, I admit I’m an incurable farklemaniac.

I find this affliction to be most acute in the first few weeks after acquiring a new motorcycle, whether it’s truly brand new or a used bike that’s merely new to me. Often, I’ll have a standard list of parts to immediately add or replace based on what I’ve grown accustomed to on other machines in the recent past. This list has changed over the years, depending on what weaknesses were common for bikes of the era and which items felt like high priorities to me during those periods.

For example, when I was a sport bike fanatic, it was unthinkable to leave the OEM exhaust on anything I owned. Although I couldn’t actually detect the weight savings or performance gains such a piece afforded compared to stock, the idea I might be sacrificing something in those areas was like a pebble in my boot, not to mention my conviction no motorcycle looked or sounded “correct” with a heavy, ugly, and oh-so-basic muffler hanging off the back. During this phase of my riding journey, I had the surprise good fortune to realize the guy standing next to me watching practice at Road Atlanta was one of my favorite racers of the time, Dale Quarterley. He remarked that most of the amateurs rounding the corner in front of us had made the rookie mistake of spending their money on exhaust systems instead of suspension upgrades, when the latter would have yielded much greater reductions in their lap times. He pointed out the contrast between those with and without aftermarket shocks (and presumably reworked fork internals); it was striking, once I knew where to look. Indeed, those with better suspension flew through the corner like they were on proverbial rails, whereas the others weaved and

wobbled, and had to carry less speed to avoid crashing. The presence or absence of a freer-flowing exhaust system may have made a few tenths difference by the end of the back straight, but improved suspension made larger gains in every corner.

After this insight, shock replacement and fork revalving became absolute necessities for any bike entering my garage. Those investments really did yield improvements I could truly feel, as opposed to the exhaust benefits, which were mostly imaginary and image-based. I wish I could say I stopped buying aftermarket exhausts from that point forward, but I usually just added suspension work to the list alongside them, not to mention numerous other racy parts I found absurdly tantalizing, but which said more about my aspirations than my abilities.

With age, my priorities shifted. After being spoiled by my first aftermarket seat and heated grips, I couldn’t do without them. Enhanced wind and crash protection, greater conspicuity, navigation, and communication support—these came to displace fancy pipes and mufflers, customizable fuel injection computers, carbon fiber bodywork, and the stickiest tires on the market. Not only was I moving away from performance-oriented mods I’d seldom been able to appreciate, but motorcycles were being outfitted from the factory with better kit, making those prior upgrades less cost-effective. Whereas a jet kit and slip-on actually did boost power noticeably long ago, they offered less and less advantage without extensive engine work as OEM equipment developed. Even if power and handling improvements were possible, a tiny number of riders could exploit the native capabilities of technologically evolving stock motorcycles, making such gains overkill with only theoretical merit. Now it can be hard to justify any such tuning efforts on the basis of their tangible impact on the riding experience, at least if you don’t count sight and sound. Accessories focused on comfort, convenience and safety provide more salient and meaningful advantages for the—er more mature rider. Even in these areas, stock motorcycles have gotten much better. I no longer take for granted I’ll need to replace the original seat, for instance, although I still do occasionally. Rarely do I feel the need to redo suspension. While I may detect some minor deficiency in certain situations, modern forks

and shocks typically deliver a good balance of compliance and control with meaningful adjustability; the cost-benefit ratio of replacing or rebuilding them makes such work far less worthwhile than it used to be.

With many subtractions from my old standard farkling lists, you might think I have a much shorter and less expensive roster of urgent revisions. Not so! Now I’m extremely concerned about protecting my investment, and this conservative mindset mandates lots of “insurance” in the form of frame, axle and bar-end sliders, case and radiator guards, and assorted other armor to shield my bike from damage that would be costly in terms of both money and the serious hassles/ danger of being stranded with a disabled machine. Ironically, so far, I’ve never “enjoyed” the benefits of such safeguards; like other forms of insurance, the best case scenario involves getting nothing for my money beyond peace of mind.

Goodies like heated grips and effective windscreens remain crucial for extending my riding season into the winter months. While these are increasingly common in OEM form, they’re not always present on a given motorcycle. I actually prefer to install grip heaters myself, rather than use what the factory provides, as this gives me the ability to choose my own grips, which are perhaps the most important element in the bike-rider interface in terms of comfort, security and feel. Other ergonomic considerations, like handlebar position, are sometimes relevant, too. A set of risers or an aftermarket bar with a different bend may be required to tweak things to my liking—more a reflection of my aging body than something “wrong” with the bike. Tires have come a very long way as rubber chemistry and manufacturing technology have advanced. It may be hard to find a lousy pair these days, but there are still significant differences in

handling, grip, feedback, water dispersion, and mileage that can make changing tires an imperative. Auxiliary lighting, whether to illuminate the road or alert drivers to my presence and intentions, is another area where any new bike can do better.

If I possessed limitless funds, I’d still buy aftermarket exhausts and have my suspension custom tailored to fit my personal preferences. I’d bedazzle my bikes with anodized aluminum bits and carbon fiber panels. I’d remap my fuel injection to eradicate any and all imperfections in power delivery, and I’d try a halfdozen aftermarket seats to see which—if any—was actually superior to the stocker over time (and in which situations). I probably wouldn’t incur the reliability liability of extensive engine work, knowing I’d never use the advantages, but could well suffer the disadvantages. The argument could be made I should just buy more motorcycles to cover all my riding needs with bikes specifically designed for each scenario, rather than trying to perfect each machine’s capabilities across multiple uses. I’ve done exactly that to the degree my finances allowed (reaching a garage population peak of nine some years ago before cutting back), but I lavished no less attention on each bike in my stable.

Despite what I’ve already said here to highlight the functional side of farkling, I feel compelled to accessorize and modify a functionally flawless motorcycle. Farkling is only partly about function, image or aesthetics. It’s also about making a motorcycle mine. I want it to be uniquely reflective of my tastes and sensibilities, and I want to have a hand in its creation. Each new machine is a blank canvas, awaiting my signature strokes. Aftermarket pieces are selected as part of an artistic process, an effort to make the bike match an internal ideal—not unlike a musician, painter,

or poet translating something from their interior into their chosen medium of outward expression. This, as much as anything, is the driving force behind countless hours spent poring over aftermarket options, reviews, technical explanations, and pricing, often before a new motorcycle is even in my possession. I once had to wait on an ordered bike for a couple of months. By the time it arrived, I had a mountain of parts waiting for it on my workbench. On one hand, I had to wonder what the hell was wrong with me; how could I be sure my bike needed all that stuff? On the other hand, it was a rapturous orgy of excess and expediency, having all those sexy items stockpiled and ready to mount. No waiting on parts to trickle in over the course of weeks, impatiently vigilant for UPS each day like a child anxiously anticipating Santa’s arrival. Instead, I could lock myself away in the garage for an entire, gloriously uninterrupted weekend and emerge with a brand new, yet already comprehensively outfitted, motorcycle. Of course, I found more things to add to it later, but for a brilliant moment, it felt “done,” right from the start, like Athena springing forth from Zeus’s head fully grown and fully armed.

This begs the question: What happens when a project bike is finally finished? Well, there’s probably always something else to tweak, no matter how much time, energy, and money one invests. It could just be a lateral move, rather than a genuine improvement, but it provides a refreshing burst of novelty. At times, I’ve reached a point of diminishing returns and ceased farkling—on that bike! Maybe another machine arrives in need of my ministrations, or maybe I discover some new gadget for one of the others already mine. I don’t believe I’ve ever lost interest in a motorcycle just because it was farkled out, but some aspect of its purpose does get lost. It’s definitely not that I cease to enjoy riding such a bike, as though it’s only value to me was as a fresh puzzle to be solved—and then abandoned and discarded when it could no longer provide that flavor of stimulation. Instead, I think my farkling needs just get transferred to another target. Then that bike becomes my focus for a while, while I continue to value the completed one. Maybe if I ran out of mechanical projects entirely, I’d have to jettison a motorcycle to fund and make room for a new project, but I’ve never been in that position. There’s always been something to do on at least one of them. Potential acquisitions grab my attention not because of boredom with what I own, or even because of their appeal as a novel venture, but rather because they promise to offset some flaw or inadequacy I’ve been unable to remedy in one of my current motorcycles. This typically has less to

do with the bike’s shortcomings and more to do with a change in my interests (or an irresistible marketing campaign).

Nevertheless, upon bringing a new bike home, I can count on a frenzied series of aftermarket purchases, long stints in the garage, and an utterly irrational sense that “things just aren’t right” until the first wave of accessories has been installed. Only then is the debutante ready to go to the ball. Outings before then involve a mild, admittedly ridiculous, self-consciousness: what if someone sees my bike without its tail tidy in place?! They’ll judge it based on insufficient data! Don’t look, I’m not done yet! This isn’t exactly vanity, but a painful awareness my work is incomplete. I wouldn’t want to show the world a half-finished painting, sculpture or novel either, no matter how well it’s shaping up. I should have felt proud of my latest acquisition from day one, since it’s the best box-stock motorcycle I’ve ever owned, but I’m deliberately burning through its break-in mileage solo, frantically completing the bulk of my customization before its first service. Then I’ll present it to the population at large. In New Bike Fever, I made clear insanity was afoot. Farklemania may be an extension of that crazy state, and it can linger for months or years after obtaining a new motorcycle. Whereas new bike fever comes and goes with episodic purchases, farklemania is more of a chronic ailment. It compels its victims to perpetually chase perfection, even on a bike that’s essentially perfect from the start; change for change’s sake. The impulse to buy a motorcycle is followed by the compulsion to improve it, no matter how hard it is to find fault. No doubt this sounds dreadful to riders who loathe the downtime of wrenching—or the pennieson-the-dollar farkles bring at resale, but for those who treat wrenches (or service orders) like paintbrushes, farkling is a huge part of the fun of being a motorcyclist. It’s not just a means to an end, but also an end in itself. I love my illness.

Mark Barnes is a clinical psychologist and motojournalist. To read more of his writings, check out his book Why We Ride: A Psychologist Explains the Motorcyclist’s Mind and the Love Affair Between Rider, Bike and Road, currently available in paperback through Amazon and other retailers.

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the 2024 square route rally

By Mike Seay #105944

The mainstay event of the BMW Motorrad Club Washington DC (formerly known as the BMW Bikers of Metropolitan Washington) is their annual Square Route Rally. For years, this event has been held in early June at Camp West Mar in Sabillasville, Maryland, a lush 72-acre parcel in the Catoctin Mountains not far from Camp David. Managed by the YMCA of Frederick County, Camp West Mar campus includes a large camping area, several bunkhouses, a mess hall, an events pavilion, and ample restrooms and showers with plenty of hot water, and thus an ideal getaway for road-weary riders.

“After hearing lots of fun things about Square Route Rally for many years, the stars finally aligned for us in 2023,” stated Diane Pears, a first-time SRR visitor from the Four Winds BMW Club in New Castle, Pennsylvania. “For my husband Tim and I, this was a doubleheader–with the Square Route Rally preceding the 50th MOA National Rally. “

We enjoyed the guided ride choices, including the Friday ice cream run where the dairy cows kept an eye on us from their milking parlor at the end of the porch,” Pears said,” and after the event, the Club’s ride captains organized a road trip to the MOA National Rally in Doswell, Virginia, with a three-night layover at Penmerryl Farm in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley region.

Rick Miller, reminisced about his experiences. “Since purchasing my bike in 2013, I had ridden a whopping 5,600 miles. I intended to do a whole lot more riding if I could find the time, and so I maintained my membership in both the BMW MOA and BMWBMW but had never attended any of their rallies. With the Square Route Rally taking place the weekend before the MOA National Rally, I figured this would be a great opportunity to do a test run of my bike and camping gear.

“After watching YouTube videos about motorcycle camping and gear reviews, I thought I was ready. I arrived at Camp West Mar just past noon and could see the tents set up on the field as I followed the gravel road to the main building. After registering, I selected a campsite and ended up next to two German officers stationed in Norfolk who offered me a beer before I had even removed my helmet. It suddenly dawned on me that I was effectively surrounded by kindred spirits, and this was going to be an enjoyable weekend.”

Colonel Joerg Dronia oversees the German Armed Forces Command USA and Canada in Reston, Virginia, and was one of the two Senior Road Captains of the BMW Motorcycle Club of Berlin-Spandau, where BMW motorcycles are built. He undoubtedly travelled the furthest to get to one of our Square Route Rally events.

“I came from Berlin, Germany, to the U.S. toward the end of 2021 and brought my beloved 2018 BMW R 1200 RT,” he explained. “I visited the beautiful countryside roads in Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, and as far south as the Carolinas. After a couple of weeks of riding solo, I started investigating ways to connect with other bikers in the region and was lucky to find the BMW Bikers of the Metropolitan of Washington. The SSR rally site turned out to be about 70 miles from my home, and the agenda looked very attractive, so I excitedly rode north to the campus. The Friday Ice Cream Run, the Chili dinner, several guided tours, a BBQ dinner, evening pit fires, the Tiki Bar, and so on exceeded my expectations. I also enjoyed meeting this great and lovely community of enthusiasts of fine German engineering,” he said.

Attendance at the SSR draws many from afar, but the largest percentage of the attendees are members of our club who primarily come from Washington DC, Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia. Last year’s

attendance was right at 130 folks, and as the word keeps spreading, this year’s attendance is expected to be well above that. Camp West Mar is an easy ride from Washington DC, Baltimore, and Philadelphia and is a premium riding location in the mid-Atlantic region. Door prizes worth several thousand dollars for last year’s Rally came from 25 different sponsors and included substantial prizes from the four local dealerships: Bob’s Motorcycles in Jessup, Maryland, District BMW in Gaithersburg, Maryland, Motorcycles of Dulles in Virginia, and Morton’s BMW in Fredericksburg, Virginia. For this year’s SRR, a similar collection of prizes is being sought again from these generous sponsors.

For 2024, the 49th Annual Square Route Rally is scheduled for June 7-9 with highlights including ample room for tent camping, bunkhouses, free ice, coffee in the mornings, and a lemonade and iced tea station all day. On Friday, their traditional afternoon Ice Cream Run to South Mountain Creamery, a bratwurst/hot dog dinner, guest speakers, and the now famous Tiki Bar will feature an award-winning German Oktoberfest Beer kindly sponsored by our Global Alliances Chairman Joerg Dronia. Saturday brings a selection of group rides and a delicious BBQ dinner. As always, there will be lots of door prizes and rally awards with a grand finale featuring a Live Bluegrass concert by Hot Pepper Jam that night!

“Hosting a successful Rally calls for good planning, revisiting lessons learned, recruiting volunteers to assist, and fostering a chemistry of good fellowship, fun, and safety,” said club President Juan Botero.

From what we gathered from our survey last year, SRR participants really appreciated the camaraderie, the forging of new friendships with kindred spirits, the relaxed, fun atmosphere they encountered, the excellent food, and the spectacular rides. Although we can never guarantee good weather (and bringing rain gear is advisable) you will assuredly meet old and new friends at this event and go home with fun memories.

For more information about the 2024 Square Route Rally, visit bmw2.org/srr.

Welcome our newest MOA members

Magomed Abdurakhmanov Burlingame, CA

Thomas Agresti Boise, ID

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Alban Bogaj Kenosha, WI

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Jon Brakebill Cottonwood Heights, UT

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Alan Burtt Digital

Kevin Campbell Rocky Mount, VA

Jo Carter Bowithick, Launceston

Ana Cehic Clayton, MO

Christopher Ciesla Hoffman Estates, IL

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James Clodoveo Palmyra, PA

River Coe Cary, IL

Edward Cook Wheat Ridge, CO

David Cook Corvallis, OR

Elizabeth Cottle Oak Park, MI

Michael Cousino Hinesburg, VT

Dylan Cowens Fort Collins, CO

Chris Crane Largo, FL

Tony Crawford Arvada, CO

Christian Cruz Mendon, MA

Phillip Cybulski Orlando, FL

Adam Dabkowski Chicago, IL

Jeffrey Dang Digital

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Mark Devine Manassas, VA

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Tim Drimby Bloomfield Hills, MI

Brendan Duffy Colchester, CT

Nathan Eide Streamwood, IL

Allan Elander Richmond, BC

Sean Elliot Graysville, TN

Larry Ellis New Maryland, NB

Nathaniel Emmert Quincy, FL

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Mike Eynon West End, NC

Janine Eyrich Auburn, PA

Allen Fagga Port Henry, NY

Tom Fitkin Toledo, OH

William W Flanz Alexandria, VA

Alicia Flavell Oro Medonte, ON

David Fogle Port Angeles, WA

Katrina Fogleman Carolina, RI

Richard Fortner Ebony, VA

Ken Frank Napa, CA

Bob Frost Indianapolis, IN

Bryan Gabel Bethel, PA

Rich Gandy Oregon City, OR

Alex Garcia Rock Hill, SC

Eric Garcia Rock Hill, SC

Arthur Gardener Eugene, OR

Nicholes Ghnouly Saint Louis, MO

David Gifford Central Point, OR

Derek Goldin Greensboro, NC

William Goodermote Albany, NY

Emerson Goodwin Bella Vista, AR

Dave Gorthy El Dorado Hills, CA

Dan Gradin Tigard, OR

Christopher Graves Waunakee, WI

Richard Green Happy Valley, OR

Jeffrey Grenier Bend, OR

Mark Gridley Freeport, IL

John Grise Bowling Green, KY

Michael Griswold Laurinburg, NC

Jackie Hancock Baldwyn, MS

Jeffrey Harrington Newport News, VA

Lance Harris South Jordan, UT

Brooke Harris Rockledge, FL

Eva Hathaway Sunriver, OR

David Hawxhurst King George, VA

William Helm Newport Coast, CA

Marcel Hesch Tulsa, OK

Ken Horn Manson, WA

Emmuanuel Hottons Bourbonnais, IL

Anthony Howey Bloomfield Hills, MI

Roy Hudson Fort Pierce, FL

Juan Huerta Elkhorn, WI

David Hughes Clearwater, FL

Michael Hunt Oak Buff, MB

Terry Hurst Fort Lauderdale, FL

Mark Igelman Corvallis, OR

Przemyslaw Ilczyk Crown Point, IN

Shyam Janakaraja Cary, NC

Mike Johnson Oakland, CA

Teura Jones Temple Terrace, FL

Knea Joshua Colorado Springs, CO

Andrius Juskevicius Castle Rock, CO

Zachary Kalinowski Hazel Park, MI

Christine Kathryn Larkspur, CO

Mark Kavanagh Rye, NH

Murat Kaynar Franklin, TN

Timothy Keller Scappoose, OR

Jason Kent Lake Forest, IL

Terry Kerwin Evans, GA

Omar Khalil Woodridge, IL

James Kim Portland, OR

Dean Kimmel Owens Crossroads, AZ

Nathan Kirkman Raleigh, NC

Keegan Krueger Ripon, WI

Paul Kulp Silver Spring, MD

Bridgette LaBossiere Aubrey, TX

Peter Lafferty Edina, MN

Randy Lane Murfreesboro, TN

Scott Lang Chandler, AZ

Randy Laplante Maricopa, AZ

Alice LeBarron Bend, OR

Ryan Lee Fremont, CA

Mark Lemons Fayetteville, AR

Gene LeSieur Aloha, OR

John Lloyd San Antonio, FL

Tex Long Garner, NC

Maryna Longnickel Austin, TX

Bruce Lundmark Akron, OH

Donald MacKellar Santa Fe, NM

Ed Madro Calgary, AB

Chad Maggert Anaheim, CA

Julie Magura Newfield, NY

George Manolakis Granby, CT

Jean-Francois Martel Summerstown, ON

Matt Martin Fredericksburg, VA

Dusti Martin Fredericksburg, VA

Justin Martinez Sedro Woolley, WA

Janice Mathern Vancouver, WA

Max Max Maitland, FL

Timothy Mayhak Kalispell, MT

Sean McCloskey Denver, NC

Scott McDuff Kennesaw, GA

Jim McFayden Winter Haven, FL

Jim McGarrigle Olean, NY

George Mcintyre Kenosha, WI

Keith McKenney Potomac, MD

Eric Means Portland, OR

Giorgio Messi Macerata

Brandon Meyers Macon, GA

Michael Miller Prescott, AZ

Thomas Minniss Mission, BC

Robert Mitchell Ottawa, ON

Mak Mneimneh Hamilton, ON

Mani Mohan Tampa, FL

Mo Morales Miami, FL

Bob Morris Montello, NV

Dustin Morrow Longbranch, WA

Mike Mortorff Fennville, MI

Bruce Moses Oakridge, OR

Wilbur Moyer Santa Rosa Beach, FL

Brian Murphy Fredericksburg, TX

Bettina Nedel Parker, CO

Scott Nelson Bend, OR

Raymond Nicewonger Uniontown, PA

Robert Oakes Chicago, IL

Max Orsini Bend, OR

Jim Osher Bend, OR

David Overman Charlotte, NC

Jakob Pasdertz Makanda, IL

William Patterson Lindenhurst, IL

Davy Pavlica Auburn, CA

Joe Peluso Alpharetta, GA

Wiel Penders Leavenworth, WA

Flavius Petcov River Grove, IL

Michael Peterson Littleton, CO

“I am thrilled to be a member of BMW MOA. My R 750 GS is a remarkable machine and I have spent this past summer and fall exploring the Pennsylvania Wilds. This is my first BMW and it is amazing. I am looking forward to exploring the country. ”

– Donald Lemmon #235924

Errol Phipps Dallas, TX

Derek Pierce Batavia, OH

Richard Pietroski North Las Vegas, NV

Wayne Pinoli Calpella, CA

Matthaw Polito Travelers Rest, SC

Dennis Pribbenow Payson, AZ

Kevin Priest Washington Court House, OH

Ivan Puglisi Washington, DC

Meg Pusateri Dahlonega, GA

Arlene Ramsdale Thunder Bay, ON

Carl Redfearn Charlotte, NC

Bill Reitz Digital

Michael Ressler Glenview, IL

George Rezabek Tinley Park, IL

Ken Riebeling Eugene, OR

Ryan Rimkus Elgin, IL

Jason Robinson Pueblo West, CO

Peter Rossi Sutter Creek, CA

Richard Roth North Ridgeville, OH

Andrew Rozas Los Angeles, CA

Praveen Sadagopan Tampa, FL

Jesus Salinas Corinth, TX

John Sampson Qualicum Beach, BC

Peter Santana Waynesboro, VA

Steve Sapio Highlands, NJ

Dusty Sarazan Noblesville, IN

Scott Schechter Bandera, TX

Stephen Scherba Bel Air, MD

Shane Schroder Rapid City, SD

Erik Schuster Riva, MD

Devon Seiple New Tripoli, PA

Howard-Yana Shapiro Davis, CA

Michael Shelton Unicoi, TN

Paul Sherwood Phoenixville, PA

Michael Shoaf Pickens, SC

Charles Short Bellingham, WA

John Shubin Mascotte, FL

John Shubin Vernon Hills, IL

Gilberto Sifontes Digital

Robert Siliani Center Valley, PA

Danford Sinclair Philomath, OR

Johann Sinclair Kirkfield, ON

Joe Siska Kunkletown, PA

Gerald Skidmore Jasper, TN

Rod Skogseth Reno, NV

Phillip Smith Arlington, TX

Andrew Sotter Markesan, WI

Adolph Spitta San Antonio, TX

Ray Spitzer Lees Summit, MO

Jerome Staats Clinton, WA

Greg Stewart Houston, TX

Charles Stowe Plainfield, IN

Marko Struijk Andover, ME

Rosline Sumpter Columbia, SC

Jeffrey Swan Sykesville, MD

Daniel Tady Basehor, KS

Ian Taylor Tuckombil, NSW

Paul Tefft Bellevue, WA

David Tepper River Forest, IL

Gerard Toohey Lake Forest, IL

Brad Tremain Toronto, ON

Chris Van Dan Elzen Rochester, MI

Randy Van Vliet Digital

Neil Vanderpost Thornbury, ON

Joshua Vanhoose Greenville, SC

Branden Vehrs Lake In The Hills, IL

Nathan Vick Delafield, WI

Brandon Voight Homer Glen, IL

Michael Wade Dayton, OH

Michael Wallington Jacksonville, FL

James Walters Saint Petersburg, FL

Kenneth Ward-Arnett Sioux Falls, SD

Scott Webster Manhattan, KS

Albert Wedworth Chico, CA

Andrew Weiss New Orleans, LA

Dana White Tigard, OR

James Wiese Iowa City, IA

Todd Wilhelm Casa Grande, AZ

Robert Winder Nederland, CO

Shane Wolfe Severna Park, MD

Todd Wright Athens, AL

Stewart Wyre Huntersville, NC

Mike Yeck Licking, MO

Raymond Youell Yorkville, IL

Matthew Young Powell, OH

Noel Zarza Lewisberry, PA

Thomas Zwicker Waldport, OR

WHEN & WHERE

For complete details on any event listed, please visit bmwmoa.org and click on the Rallies & Events tab.

5/1/2024 - 5/5/2024

THE RDV, AN ADVENTURE BIKE RALLY

Tellico Plains, Tennessee hans.c.koeller@icloud.com

5/2/2024 - 5/5/2024

BMW TAME THE DRAGON Robbinsville, North Carolina bmw.motorrad.ttd@gmail.com

5/3/2024 – 5/5/2024

GEORGIA MOUNTAIN RALLY Hiawassee, Georgia rally@bmwmcoga.org

5/4/2024

38TH ANNUAL MOTORCYCLE FLEA MARKET & MOTOEXPO Leaf River, Illinois rockbmw2000@yahoo.com

5/9/2024 – 5/12/2024

L’INTER 2024 BMW MOA FRENCH CONNECTION

Aspres-sur-Buëch, France bmwmoa.fc1980@gmail.com

5/11/2024

PRESENTATION & BOOK SIGNING AT EUROPEAN CYCLE SPORTS WITH SAM MANICOM Plano, Texas

contact@bmwmotorcyclesdallas.com

5/16/2024 – 5/19/2024

DOWNEAST RALLY ‘24 Poland, Maine bob.cohen@bmwmoa.org

5/16/2024 – 5/19/2024

25TH ANNUAL EUROPEAN RIDERS RALLY Burkesville, Kentucky ridersrally@bmwmcon.org

5/17/2024 – 5/19/2024

49TH ANNUAL GREAT RIVER ROAD RALLY (GR3) Soldiers Grove, Wisconsin rally@madisonbmwclub.org

5/17/2024 – 5/19/2024 2024 GETTYSBURG BMW RALLY Gettysburg, Pennsylvania samrbooth@yahoo.com

5/17/2024 – 5/18/2024 MOA PREMIER TRAINING IN GREER

Greer, South Carolina membership@bmwmoa.org

5/17/2024 – 5/19/2024 NATURAL STATE CAMPOUT Morrilton, Arkansas jimmyjoe@windstream.net

5/18/2024 – 5/19/2024 NEW SWEDEN 450 Starlight, Pennsylvania pijliskojr@gmail.com

5/20/2024 – 5/24/2024 SMOKY MOUNTAIN MAGIC TOUR Fontana Dam, North Carolina becky.smith@bmwmoa.org

5/23/2024 – 5/27/2024

49ER RALLY

Mariposa, California president@bmwnorcal.org

5/23/2024 – 5/26/2024

LAND OF OZ RALLY Paola, Kansas moa_84843@yahoo.com

5/30/2024

MOTORCYCLE TRAVEL

PRESENTATION AT IRV SEAVER BMW WITH SAM MANICOM Orange, California contact@irvseaverbmw.com

5/31/2024 – 6/2/2024

47TH ANNUAL HIAWATHA RALLY Houston, Minnesota hiawatharally@gmail.com

6/6/2024

PRESENTATION EVENING WITH SAM MANICOM, ROUND-THE-WORLD RIDER AND AUTHOR Spokane, Washington info@westsideracing.com

6/7/2024 – 6/9/2024

49TH SQUARE ROUTE RALLY Sabillasville, Maryland sworddrill79@gmail.com

6/7/2024 – 6/9/2024

GATHERING OF THE CLANS CAMPOUT Ferguson, North Carolina brent.hcmc@gmail.com

6/13/2024 – 6/16/2024

RIDIN’ TO REDMOND NATIONAL RALLY Redmond, Oregon membership@bmwmoa.org

6/20/2024 – 6/23/2024

BLACK HILLS RENDEZVOUS Spearfish, South Dakota johnlangdell@rushmore.com

6/20/2024 – 6/23/2024

CHIEF JOSEPH RALLY

John Day, Oregon bmwro.cjr@gmail.com

6/21/2024 – 6/23/2024

MOTOMO RALLY 2024 Crane, Missouri kronie12@gmail.com

6/27/2024 – 6/30/2024

CASCADE COUNTY

RENDEZVOUS Cashmere, Washington djmuir22152@yahoo.com

6/29/2024 – 6/30/2024

CAMPOUT AT UNCLE TOMS CABIN

Pollock Pines, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

7/18/2024 – 7/21/2024

52ND ANNUAL TOP O’ THE ROCKIES RALLY Paonia, Colorado lowrtax@gmail.com

7/27/2024 – 7/28/2024

CAMPOUT AT SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK Quaking Aspens Campground tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

8/8/2024 – 8/11/2024

50TH STANLEY STOMP Lowman, Idaho rcoonan@juno.com

8/17/2024

31ST BLUE BUTT RALLY Virginia City, Nevada bluebuttrally@gmail.com

8/23/2024 - 8/25/2024 2024 HOPEWELL ROAD RALLY Athens, Ohio samrbooth@yahoo.com

8/24/2024 - 8/25/2024

CAMPOUT AT LASSEN

NATIONAL PARK Lost Creek Campground tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

MADISON BMW CLUB

TH GREAT RIVER ROAD RALLY

SOLDIERS GROVE, WI

VETERAN S PARK 101 CHURCH ST MAY 17-19, 2024

CAMPING RALLY PINS DOOR PRIZES

$40 AT THE GATE $35 PRE-REGISTRATION (BY MAY 8)

FRIDAY & SATURDAY MEALS PROVIDED

CHRISTOPHERRB@SBCGLOBAL.NET MADISONBMWCLUB.ORG/GR3

9/4/2024 - 9/8/2024

11TH ANNUAL WAILIN’ WAYNE WEEKEND

Nelsonville, Ohio info@wailinwayneweekend.com

9/6/2024 - 9/8/2024

BMW MOA KENTUCKY STATE RALLY Pineville, Kentucky rides4fun@bmwmoa.org

9/6/2024 - 9/8/2024

53RD ANNUAL WISCONSIN DELLS RALLY Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin rallychair@wiscbmwclub.com

9/12/2024 - 9/15/2024

MOTORRAD FEST AUTHORITY BIKE SHOOTOUT Lebanon, Tennessee becky.smith@bmwmoa.org

9/13/2024 - 9/15/2024 TUG HILL TURNOUT Lowville, New York camdengroup@icloud.com

9/19/2024

FOURTH ANNUAL LAUREL HIGHLANDS WEEKEND SPONSORED BY THE BMW MOA Somerset, Pennsylvania gsjay@kaplitz.com

9/19/2024 - 9/22/2024

PURE STODGE TOURING ASSOCIATION IOWA RALLY Elkader, Iowa pstarally@gmail.com

9/27/2024 - 9/28/2024

MOA PREMIER TRAINING IN GREER Greer, South Carolina membership@bmwmoa.org

9/27/2024 - 9/29/2024

37TH ANNUAL HOOSIER BEEMERS RALLY North Vernon, Indiana k12lts@gmail.com

9/28/2024 - 9/29/2024

CAMPOUT AT KLAMATH NATIONAL FOREST

Nordheimer Group Site tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

10/4/2024 - 10/6/2024

CENTRAL OKLAHOMA BMW ROAD RIDERS ANNUAL CAMPING TRIP Talihina, Oklahoma jwozjr.traveller@gmail.com

10/11/2024 - 10/13/2024

COLONIAL VIRGINIA RALLY Wakefield, Virginia steve@slrimagery.com

10/11/2024 - 10/13/2024

49TH ANNUAL FALLING LEAF RALLY Steelville, Missouri rally-coordinator@gatewayriders.com

10/25/2024 - 10/26/2024

MOA PREMIER TRAINING IN GREER Greer, South Carolina membership@bmwmoa.org

10/26/2024 - 10/27/2024 OCTOBERFEST Manchester, California tourcaptain@bmwnorcal.org

10/28/2024 – 11/9/2024

BMW MOA DAY OF THE DEAD TOUR WITH MOTODISCOVERY info@motodiscovery.com

11/8/2024 – 11/10/2024

54TH SOUTH CENTRAL BMW OWNERS REUNION Fayetteville, Texas president@bmwclubofhouston.com

11/15/2024 - 11/16/2024

MOA PREMIER TRAINING IN GREER Greer, South Carolina membership@bmwmoa.org

Never ride alone

With Platinum Roadside Assistance and Tire Protection added to your BMW MOA membership, you’ll never ride alone again. BMW MOA’s 24/7 Platinum Roadside Assistance gets you to a repair facility fast and will even replace a punctured tire for free! All that for only $109 a year, which includes the cost of your MOA membership.

Join online at bmwmoa.org or convert your current BMW MOA membership by calling 864-438-0962. BMW MOA Platinum Roadside and Tire Protection, available exclusively for BMW MOA members.

Managing Editor BILL WIEGAND | bill@bmwmoa.org

Art Director KARIN HALKER | karin@bmwmoa.org

Digital Media Editor WES FLEMING | wes@bmwmoa.org

Associate Editor RON DAVIS

A ssociate Editor JOSE ABILES

Ely Woody, Brian Dutcher, Andreas Vollmerhausen, Brent Howard, Carl Grusnick, Jim Sanford, Mike Monnie, Tom Williamson, Trish Hagle, Jay Shannon, David Peterson, Sam Garst, Reece Mullins, Roger Trendowski, Susanna Parkhouse, Mark Barnes, Matt Parkhouse, Wes Fleming, Ed Housewright, Jeff Alevy, Alan Toney, David Cwi, Mike Seay, Doug Baker.

Executive Director TED MOYER | ted@bmwmoa.org

Chief Operating Officer BECKY SMITH | becky.smith@bmwmoa.org

Advertising & Commercial Promotion WES FITZER | wes.fitzer@bmwmoa.org

Membership Associate TONYA MCMEANS | tonya@bmwmoa.org

Membership Manager PAULA FITZER | paula.fitzer@bmwmoa.org

BMW MOA Headquarters 2350 Hwy. 101 South, Greer, SC 29651 (864) 438-0962

Membership in the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America is open to all riders, regardless of brand affiliation. Although we are united by the BMW marque, adventure-minded motorcyclists will find a home here.

Join today by visiting bmwmoa.org or call one of our friendly membership associates at 864-438-0962.

BMWMOA.ORG

During a month long ride around New Zealand, Doug Baker (#220537) found a few of the country’s 30 million sheep.

“ Joining BMW MOA is a true No-Brainer in terms of value. I have already received hundreds of dollars in rebates from purchasing BMW gear, and the MOA sponsored Advanced Skills class that I took last month was a total blast.

My skills level in low speed maneuvering and high speed collision avoidance went way, way up.”

– Blake Hottle #235806

Do you know someone who would like to join?

Scan the code and give them their first year of membership free. Enter the activation code BRINGONE

* First year free membership offer available to new MOA members only.

NEW! Michelin Anakee Road Tire

Our new On-road tire specifically designed for Adventure Touring motorcycles

The all-new Michelin Anakee Road front and rear tires feature 100% Michelin Silica Technology for optimized wet grip, helping you feel connected to the road in wet conditions.1 The longlasting center tread compound is designed to enable you to take your road adventure the extra mile. And, these 90/10 tires are built for reliable on-road stability in all conditions so you can have a more condent ride.

We’ll plan to see you in Bend, Oregon at the BMW MOA National Rally! Stay tuned for details about our on-site tire installation offer!