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The Breeze THE MAGAZINE OF BLUFFTON

The Call of the Southern Coast See Page 26

Bluffton.com

The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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Notes From The Editor:

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few great things about September are that the heat from August is gone, fall colors are in focus, seasonal vegetables are coming in and, let’s not forget, there’s another holiday!

The first U.S. Labor Day celebration took place in New York City in 1882 at the behest of local labor unions, who wanted to put the fruits of their industries on public display. In 1887, Oregon instituted a state-level Labor Day holiday. Twenty-nine other states followed suit before Labor Day finally became a federal holiday in 1894. Now it is a day off, and the last official weekend of beach and sandbar fun. Did you know that early in the Civil War, Gen. Robert E. Lee was stationed in the Lowcountry to build and strengthen coastal defenses? He also mounted his famous steed, Traveller, who carried him throughout the war, while in Pocotaligo. Michele Roldán-Shaw is excited to bring you this bit of little-known history. One of the most exciting things to do on the river is dolphin watching. Each dolphin’s dorsal fin is different, like our fingerprints. Did you know that dolphin talk to other dolphin and, when they whistle, other fish go silent? Ride along with Amber Hester Kuehn and her team of dolphin researchers from Dr. Eric Montie’s lab at USCB to learn some interesting things about our favorite river friends and why this research is so important in monitoring the health of the May River. Do you know the difference between a Golf Cart and a Low Speed Vehicle? One can go on the roads at night, one is safer and one can go further than the other. Locals are using LSVs to go to so many places besides the golf course. We take a look into old and new golf carts and LSVs, as well as state safety requirements. Are you putting your cart before the course? Have you ever thought about how Bluffton was built? Answer: old-time craftsman! Craftsmanship is not necessarily a skill, but an attitude and passion to do things right that takes experience and commitment. In this issue of The Breeze, we take a look at the work David Abney is doing at May River Excursions and May River Montessori on Calhoun Street, as well as The Farm and Calhoun’s in The Promenade and Guilford Place Cottages in Stock Farm. A different type of artist, West Fraser has been “Painting the Southern Coast” for several decades. Read all about this hometown hero and then join him for a lecture and book signing in Bluffton on September 15. Also in this issue, we bring you an updated Music Town Venue Guide, as well as details on the 5th Annual Bluffton Boiled Peanut Festival taking place this month, so you can eat your fill of goober peas!

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The Breeze THE MAGAZINE OF BLUFFTON PUBLISHER Lorraine Jenness lorraine@hiltonhead.com 843-757-9889 EDITOR Randolph Stewart randolph@bluffton.com 843-816-4005 COPY EDITOR Allyson Jones allyson@hiltonhead.com 843-757-9889 SALES DIRECTOR Chierie Smith chierie@bluffton.com 843-505-5823 GRAPHIC DESIGNER Liz Shumake liz@hiltonhead.com 843-757-9889 ART DIRECTOR Jennifer Mlay graphics@hiltonhead.com 843-757-9889 CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Allyson Jones, Amber Hester Kuehn, Michele Roldán-Shaw, Andrea Six PHOTOGRAPHERS, ARTISTS West Fraser, Amber Hester Kuehn, Chierie Smith CORPORATE OFFICE 40 Persimmon St. Suite 102 Bluffton, SC 29910 843.757.8877 DISTRIBUTION Bruce McLemore, John Tant 843.757.9889 The Breeze is published by Island Communications and The Breeze Media, LLC. All rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored for retrieval by any means without permission from the Publisher. The Breeze is not responsible for unsolicited materials and the publisher accepts no responsibility for the contents or accuracy of claims in any advertisement in any issue. The Breeze is not responsible or liable for any errors, omissions, or changes in information. The opinion of contributing writers do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the magazine and its Publisher. All published photos and copy provided by writers and artists become the property of The Breeze. Copyright. 2016.


CONTENTS

SEPTEMBER 2016, VOLUME 14, NO. 9

F E AT U R E S

08 General Robert E. Lee and His Celebrated War Horse 12 Picture Day On The May 18 Going Nuts in Bluffton 26 The Call of the Southern Coast 32 The Art of Craftsmanship

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38 Music Town: Bluffton Venue Guide 40 May River Grill Salmon Dijonnaise 44 Cart Before the Course

D E PA R T M E N T S

08 History 12 Environment 18 Bluffton: Festivals 22 Faces of Bluffton 32 Architecture 36 Tide Chart 38 Bluffton: Music Town 40 Featured Recipe 42 Restaurant Guide

ON THE COVER: Returning with a Catch - West Fraser

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HISTORY

General

Robert E. Lee and His Celebrated War Horse,

Traveller: A Lowcountry Connection By Michele Roldán-Shaw

F

rom the moment he saw the horse, General Lee took a special shine to him. There was nobility there; a character beyond just fine proportions and a lustrous coat, beyond regal carriage and a fancy step, beyond even the proud spirit and intelligence that shone in the creature’s eye— the star of fortune hung over this horse as surely as it did over Robert E. Lee himself. The year was 1861 and Lee was in the mountains of West Virginia commanding a small Confederate force that would suffer defeat in the Battle of Cheat Mountain; his mistakes earned him the embarrassing nickname of “Granny Lee” because people thought he was afraid to shed blood. He had yet to rise to fame as one of the most iconic American military leaders in history. But back on those rough hilly roads, he happened to encounter Captain Joseph M. Broun, quartermaster of the 3rd Infantry of Wise’s Legion, mounted on a steed that Lee correctly predicted would become his own before the war was out. It proved one of the most important happenings of his career, not from a martial standpoint, but in terms of popular history, because Traveller would go on to become the most celebrated animal of the Civil War. Sired by the 16-hand Kentucky racehorse Grey Eagle and born to a mare called Flora at Blue Sulphur Springs, Virginia, the young colt showed his potential and fine breeding early on by taking blue ribbons in the county fair. His original owner named the horse Jeff Davis after the Mississippi senator who would become President of the Confederacy; but when Broun bought the horse for military service he renamed him Greenbriar. Broun’s brother, Major Thomas L. Broun, recalled that Greenbriar was “greatly admired in camp for his rapid, springy walk, his high spirit, bold carriage, and muscular

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strength. He needed neither whip nor spur…such vim and eagerness did he manifest to go right ahead so soon as he was mounted.” Everybody loved that horse. But he was destined for far greater glory than just being the subject of a lot of big talk around camp. Lee had started calling him “my colt,” and spoke words of pleasant praise every time he crossed paths with Broun. Before he had an opportunity to acquire the horse, however, Lee was sent on orders to the Palmetto State. His assignment was to organize coastal defense along the seaboard of South Carolina, Georgia and Florida, which included the construction of earthwork fortifications that can still be seen at places like Frampton Plantation in Yemassee. General Lee’s troops built a gun emplacement there that was crucial to protecting the Charleston-Savannah rail supply line during the 1862 Battle of Pocotaligo; grassy mounds under the trees out back are all that remain of this fortification. But, more importantly to our story, Captain Broun’s company was also transferred to the Lowcountry and, as fate would have it, he met Lee again at Pocotaligo. Immediately recognizing “his colt,” the general still showed such a fancy for the horse that the junior officer realized he had little choice but to offer it up as a gift. Lee declined, saying he would gladly purchase the animal fair and square provided he could first try him for a week to “learn his qualities.” Broun agreed, Lee took the horse, and when he sent it back with a cordial note saying it suited him if Broun cared to sell, that sealed the deal. Broun let Greenbriar go for the same price at which he purchased him: $175, or approximately $4,500 in today’s currency, but the General added a tip of $15 to


compensate for the depreciation of Confederate money. Not long after, Lee rechristened the horse Traveller (spelled with double “L” in good British style) as a tribute to the quick and untiring gait that could easily cover 40 miles in a day, and which would go on to carry him faithfully through the war and even his last days on earth. Evidently, no ordinary man could handle Traveller. The general once lent the horse to his son, Robert E. Lee, Jr., for a 30-mile journey to Fredericksburg. In his 1904 memoir, Lee, Jr. recalled that although he was quite proud of his steed and felt it was a high compliment to be allowed to ride him, quite possibly his father “wanted to give me a good hammering before he turned me over to the cavalry.” The horse kept up a short, high step—he called it a “buck-trot”—for the entire 30 miles, forcing Junior to admit he was out of his league. “Though young, strong, and tough,” he wrote, “I was glad when the journey ended. I think I am safe in saying that I could have walked the distance with much less discomfort and fatigue.” Even the general himself occasionally fell victim to Traveller’s hot temperament, as was the case in the Second Battle of Bull Run. Traveller spooked and threw his master down against a stump, causing Lee to break both hands so that he had to finish out the campaign in an ambulance, or with a courier leading his horse. But, more generally, Traveller was noted for bravery and, at times, soldiers had to literally surround him and grab the reigns to keep him from plunging ahead with their commander onto the front lines of battle. There was no denying the two had a special bond, which persisted long after the war. Lee continued to take jaunts on Traveller in his retirement, often accompanied by his daughter Mildred. In an anecdote recounted by Mrs. S.P. Lee to Lee, Jr. for his book, the general rode down to a boat landing one day where he tied Traveller to a post. Lee was bidding farewell to a young lady departing on a canal-boat when somehow the high-spirited Traveller got loose. Mrs. Lee recalls: “Sure enough, the gallant grey was making his way up the road, increasing his speed as a number of boys and men tried to stop him. General Lee immediately stepped ashore, called to the crowd to stand still, and advancing a few steps gave a peculiar low whistle. At the first sound, Traveller stopped and pricked up his ears. The General whistled a second time, and the horse with a glad whinny turned and trotted quietly back to his master, who patted and coaxed him before tying him up again. To a bystander expressing surprise at the creature’s docility the General observed that he did not see how any man could ride a horse for any length of time without a perfect understanding being established between them.” In his final years, Lee served as President of Washington College in Lexington, Virginia, where he was revered by students and colleagues alike for his dignity and accomplishments. Traveller was allowed to graze about the campus, but so many starstruck students stole hairs from his mane and tail that Lee

complained in a letter to his daughter, “He is presenting the appearance of a plucked chicken.” In the fall of 1870, Lee suffered a stroke and died two weeks later. For the funeral procession, Traveller was saddled up and decked out with black crepe, then led along behind the ammunition cart bearing Lee’s casket. Within a year, Traveller stepped on a rusty nail and contracted tetanus, an incurable disease, so he was shot to end his misery. He was buried by Lee Chapel at the college, but later some unknown persons dug up the bones and put them on exhibition in New York. A sympathetic admirer paid to have them properly mounted and returned to Washington and Lee University (renamed in honor of the general after his death); but despite being displayed in a museum, they were vandalized so constantly by students who carved their initials into them for good luck that the skeleton was removed to the basement of Lee Chapel, and there it deteriorated for 30 years. Finally, in 1971, Traveller was laid to rest for good—just a little heap of hero’s bones all powdery and bleached, placed in a wooden casket and buried a few feet from his master in the Lee family crypt. The stable where Traveller spent his final days is said to be kept with its doors flung wide so the beast’s indomitable spirit may roam at large; and when the 24th president of the university violated this tradition, he caught so much flack from the community that he had to have the doors repainted in a color he called “Traveller’s Green,” just so he could redeem himself. Everybody still loves that horse. Pictures of his grave show it all strewn with pennies by his many adoring fans. Yet nobody loved Traveller more than Lee. In a letter dictated to his daughter shortly before his death, the old general described his beloved war horse for the benefit of an artist who wished to make his portrait: “If I were an artist like you I would draw a true picture of Traveller—representing his fine proportions, muscular figure, deep chest and short back, strong haunches, flat legs, small head, broad forehead, delicate ears, quick eye, small feet, and black mane and tail. Such a picture would inspire a poet, whose genius could then depict his worth and describe his endurance of toil, hunger, thirst, heat, and cold, and the dangers and sufferings through which he passed. He could dilate upon his sagacity and affection and his invariable response to every wish of his rider. He might even imagine his thoughts, through the long night marches and days of battle through which he has passed. “But I am no artist; I can only say he is a Confederate grey. I purchased him in the mountains of Virginia in the autumn of 1861, and he has been my patient follower ever since— to Georgia, the Carolinas, and back to Virginia. He carried me through the Seven Days battle around Richmond, the Second Manassas, at Sharpsburg, Fredericksburg, the last day at Chancellorsville, to Pennsylvania, at Gettysburg, and back to the Rappahannock...You can, I am sure, from what I have said, paint his portrait. R.E. Lee” The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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ENVIRONMENT

very Wednesday, interns from the University of South Carolina Beaufort board research vessel Spartina for a dolphin survey. A telephoto lens and a quick trigger finger aim to capture the dorsal fin of Atlantic Bottlenose dolphins (not porpoises) in the May River. Each dorsal fin is unique to the individual like a fingerprint. Interns in Dr. Eric Montie’s Bioaccoustics Lab have a catalog of permanent resident dolphins in Beaufort County. Fifteen passengers also join in the search to observe the interns collecting data and get an overview of the purpose of the research being conducted in the May River.

Did you know three data recorders in the May River record fish vocalizations every 20 minutes for 2-minute sound bites over a 3-month interval…and have for the past 3 years? These data recorders also record your boat as it passes by. One intern is studying the effect of boat noise on fish vocalizations. When passengers hear the fish sounds recorded by the lab, they are surprised that fish make so much noise. These fish are red drum, black drum, silver perch, oyster toadfish and spotted sea trout. All of these fish have a swim bladder and specialized muscles that make sound as they strike this air-filled sac—just like a drum! Each species picks different months to communicate, although some overlap. They usually use the sound to attract mates to spawn…generally at dusk.

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When the vocalizations are heard, students can determine abundance and spawning intervals. This air-filled swim bladder is also the reason your fish finder can detect fish. The air conserved in the swim bladder changes the sound path emitted and reflects energy back. The fish finder detects this reflected energy and converts it into fish images on the screen.

As much as I would like to think that the dolphins are here in Beaufort County to be close to us, this is not the case. They are here for their food which is thriving in the salt marsh estuary. It is interesting to note that when dolphin whistles are recorded in the background, the fish become very quiet. Hmmmm, why would a fish not want a dolphin to hear it? You got it! Dolphins eat fish, of course. Dolphins hunt with sight and see very well, focusing their vision in air and in water—but they can’t see through murky water, so they hear their food, too! One fish that is vocal throughout the year is the oyster toadfish. Nothing really wants to eat him, so he can be as loud as he wants. Dolphins in the May also use echolocation to find food in the dark. They use a method similar to your fish finder, using sound waves to detect the air-filled bladders of fish.

The interns are usually in the lab, going through sound


files that produce an image on the screen. It is easier to determine the species of fish by observing the sound frequency image that corresponds to the sound produced rather than listening to each recording. It is important to support this research, relating fish populations to the health of the May River. Bluffton is the fastest growing city in South Carolina, and this rapid development will have an effect on the salt marsh estuary. With the empirical data the interns are collecting, we will have a solid prediction for what is to come and time to consider what action may be taken to conserve our natural resources. Without the fish, the dolphins will not stick around. I support this research by donating 25% of the tour ticket price to Dr. Montie’s lab. Interns are usually unpaid, but their work is incredibly important. The data recorders are heavy and tedious and the pluff mud is treacherous. The lab is not exhilarating, but the work is essential. They are gaining knowledge, but they have to eat too!

It is always fun to see dolphins. I never tire of seeing them. These are all Atlantic Bottlenose dolphins, scientific name: Tursiops, truncatus. A porpoise would be a very rare site in this area. But do you know why feeding dolphins was outlawed in 1992? Do you know where dolphins get fresh water to hydrate? Do you know how long they gestate and how long before they wean their calves? Where is the hair on a dolphin? How do you tell the difference between male and female dolphins? Did you know that sound does not come out of a dolphin’s mouth? Learn Flipper’s secrets by joining us for some scientific enlightenment! To reserve your seat, contact Spartina Charters at (843) 338-2716 or book online at SpartinaCharters.com.

Aga is a graduate of the University of Gdánsk in Poland, with a master’s degree in Marine Biology. She studied dolphins in the Mediterranean Sea. Same species we have here, just a different population. Somers is a graduate student at the University of Miami completing an internship in Montie’s Lab. Prior to graduate school, she trained dolphins at a Navy base in Georgia. She has a lot to add when speaking about behavior. Claire just graduated from Erskine College and is hoping to decide if listening to fish spawn all day is her calling. They all report to Dr. Montie, who earned his doctorate in Marine Biology from Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, MIT (Massachusetts Institution of Technology) and is a tenured professor at the University of South Carolina Beaufort Campus. And Capt. Amber Kuehn— that’s me. My master’s degree is in Marine Biology from NOVA Southeastern University Oceanographic Center. I manage the HHI Sea Turtle Protection Project, but I know a thing or two about dolphins, as well. The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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FIVE STAR REVIEWS Thanks for all of your help with my Dadʼs home. I was at my wits-end and you sprang into motion. I truly appreciate your kindness. - Cindy and Skip Recently, we have had to learn that it is not unique to have a rodent problem when you live in this area. What has been unique is the quality of service provided by Hilton Head Exterminators. - S. Lindsay

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Jane Austen’s

October 4 - 23, 2016

All of the wit and romance of Jane Austen’s most beloved novel vividly comes to life in this refreshingly fast-paced and engaging new adaptation by Jon Jory about life, love and marriage in British society. October 24, 2016: 13TH Annual Mortgage Network

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The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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O L D T O W N

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You don’t want to miss historic Bluffton near the May River for some of the most unique shopping and dining in our area. It’s all blended with colorful and creative art galleries, history up and down local streets, and dining for lunch and dinner in charming settings. The Bluffton Old Town Merchants Society warmly encourages visitors to come and spend an afternoon or a day discovering historic Bluffton.


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By Allyson Jones Just before the battle, the General hears a row He says “The Yanks are coming, I hear their rifles now.” He looks down the roadway, and what d’ya think he sees? The Georgia Militia cracking goober peas. Peas, peas, peas, peas Eating goober peas Goodness, how delicious, Eating goober peas.

“Goober Peas” by A. Linder excerpted from The Civil War Songbook (Dover Collection) Named South Carolina’s Official State Snack in 2006, boiled peanuts, a.k.a. “goober peas,” have been a fundamental food in Southern states for hundreds of years. While the rest of the country may prefer their peanuts roasted, Southerners—both black and white—have been consuming this briny treat since colonial times. According to seriouseats.com, “like okra, black-eyed peas, and so many other Southern staples, the peanut came to the region by way of the African diaspora, and for this reason piecing together its history can be challenging.” In fact, the website notes the word “goober” is African in origin; a term derived from the Angolan word nguba. Most often praised as the preferred protein source for Confederate soldiers during the Civil War, then later as a party food in small Southern towns and now as a valuable commodity at roadside stands and in gas stations, this seasonal delicacy is made by boiling raw or recently harvested green peanuts in salted water. Today, this humble legume is making headlines as haute cuisine and often served by celebrated chefs in the nation’s finest restaurants. Like the history of boiled peanuts, the Bluffton salute to goober peas had a modest beginning as a cook-off orchestrated by

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local boiled peanut aficionados Jared Jester and Hannah Parrish at the Farmers Market of Bluffton. In 2011, these Bluffton Boilers staged the town’s first formal Boiled Peanut Cook-Off “to bring better awareness to the ‘Official Snack Food’ of South Carolina and to try to generate some money for Bluffton Self Help,” says Jester. “Heavily focused on the actual cook-off and seeing who had the ‘Best Nuts in Town,’” the first event attracted approximately 300 people, he adds. “The World’s Largest Boiled Peanut,” which took about two months for Jester, Parrish and Clayton Colleran to build, was unveiled at the 2nd Annual Bluffton Boiled Peanut Festival. Over 20 feet long and made primarily of plywood, chicken wire and spray foam, this gigantic goober pea had a starring role in an episode of A&E’s Shipping Wars and can usually be seen perched on its trailer in front of Cahill’s Market. Over time, festival attendance grew from 3,500 to well over 7,000 in 2015, numerous activities were added to the schedule and the venue changed—first to The Promenade and then to Bluffton Village. Production of the annual event was turned over to the Greater Bluffton Chamber of Commerce a few years ago, although Jester and Parrish are still heavily involved in the annual festivities. “The popularity is certainly a fantastic thing and it is great to see so many people show appreciation for the next snack food on the planet!” declares Jester. “We only wish the focus was more heavily concentrated on the Cook-Off itself. To have the best peanuts in town should be quite a high accomplishment to hold.” For his part, Jester usually makes at least one batch of boiled peanuts a week, trying out new recipes and flavor combinations; freezing a bushel after the season ends so he


can continue to experiment throughout the winter months. Last year, he and Robbie Cahill (who happens to be the Festival’s Cook-Off Coordinator and creator of a custom rig able to cook over 1,000 pounds of peanuts at a time) got up at 3 a.m. to boil a ton— literally—of goober peas for the 2015 event. Returning to its roots, this year the Bluffton Boiled Peanut Festival kicks off on Thursday, September 8 with the Cracking of the Nut at the Farmers Market of Bluffton. After Jester or Cahill launch the event by breaking open a bottle of beer on the World’s Largest Boiled Peanut, Lil Miss Peanut and Lil Mr. Goober will be crowned. According to Erin Black of the Chamber, contestants range in age from 18 months to fouryears-old and will be judged on cuteness and “peanutiness.” Friday night, the party moves to the streets of Old Town for the 2nd Annual Peanut Pub Crawl from 6-9 p.m. Join your nuttiest (adult) buddies for a night of fun, music drinks and free goodies. A limited number of $25 tickets will be sold, so call the Chamber to reserve your spot. On Saturday, the family-friendly festival takes place in Bluffton Village from 12-5 p.m. This year’s Boiled Peanut Cook-Off features four categories— Most Creative, Most Traditional, Best Overall and Crowd Favorite—with more chances to take home the coveted Golden Peanut Trophy. Those who prefer to feast, rather than cook, can enter the Peanut Eating Contest while listening to the sounds of Mixed Groove and 2016 Taste of Bluffton Battle of the Bands winner, Native. Meanwhile, little goobers can explore the expanded Kids Zone complete with carnival games, a zip line, bungee jumping, rock climbing wall, dunk tank and more.

Thursday, September 8 Farmers Market of Bluffton, 5:30 p.m. • Cracking of the Nut • Lil Miss Peanut & Lil Mr. Goober Competition

For details on the 5th Annual Bluffton Boiled Peanut Festival, Pub Crawl tickets and Cook-Off registration, contact the Greater Bluffton Chamber of Commerce at (843) 757-1010 or visit boiledpeanutfestival.com.

Saturday, September 10 Bluffton Boiled Peanut Festival Bluffton Village, 12-5 p.m. • Boiled Peanut Cook-Off • Peanut Eating Competition • Kids Zone • Music from Mixed Groove and Native

Friday, September 9 Old Town Bluffton • 2nd Annual Peanut Pub Crawl, 6-9 p.m. Advance ticket purchase required

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A great learning trip for kids & adults!

Voyage of discovery

Discover the local marsh habitat. See the richness of life in our tidal estuary. Learn measures for water quality. All trips led by Captain Amber Kuehn MS in Marine Biology Contact: SpartinaCharters@gmail.com or Spartinacharters.com 843-338-2716

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Send your selfies to Chierie@Bluffton.com

Faces of Bluffton


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Palmetto Bay

By Andrea Six 26 bluffton.com


After days spent in his dream studio in Costa Rica crafting beautiful paintings on his easel, pleinair painter West Fraser will once again return to the Southern Coast he calls home—the coast that beckons him back after trips to Tuscany, Scandinavia, the Caribbean and Europe. The place where seagulls squawk overhead in the salty air, crabs scurry along the seashell-speckled sand and through muddy Lowcountry marshes, where the deer dart back into the forest upon meeting someone new—the sweet Southern Coast where West grew up. “This region is where I am from, the place I learned to fish and camp, ride horses and drive boats. The place I first kissed a girl and played sports, it is my place of heritage,” West explains. “As with most artists, my home turf is what I am passionate about. I do not paint this place exclusively, yet a major part of my career, reflected in this new book, is grounded in paintings of this southern coast.” Released in July 2016, his most recent book, “Painting the Southern Coast,” comes after “Charleston In My Time,” which chronicled and celebrated his love of Charleston, where West currently resides and where Helena Fox Fine Art, the exclusive art dealer and representative of Fraser’s work, is located. As with his last, this new book reveals West’s approach to painting, but it does much more than that, unveiling his “Country of Birth,” his experiences with the land, showcasing a sort of history of the region. It captures the coastline from St. Augustine, Florida, to Winyah Bay, South Carolina, with a collection of 260 works—magnificent scenes painted by West, along with maps, sketches and studies, a short autobiography coupled with introductory essays and poetry peppered throughout the pages. “I tell the story of how the study of ecology and history has shaped my life’s pursuit in art,” West says, revealing the focal point of his “Artist Talk” on September 15 in Bluffton, which will be paired with a book signing from 5:30 to 8 p.m. West works largely with oil paints, carefully crafting striking scenes with steady strokes. What started with painting watercolors from photographs evolved into watercolor on location and then to oil exclusively on

location for 25 years. Today, he spends more time in his studio, where he is able to generate larger, more finished exhibition paintings, using on-location studies and picture references. “His style is bold, elegant, and filled with light and color. A true master of design, West looks, observes, and takes in what the city reveals and, with a deft sense of movement and verve, qualifies the scene and distills the visual essence,” Jean Stern, executive director of The Irvine Museum in California writes in West’s book. “West’s colors are gentle and soft, bred in the sultry atmosphere of the South. He does not abuse color for shock value; he coaxes it to do his bidding and spreads its brilliance throughout the painting.”

Carolina Red His paintings fall somewhere between realism and impressionism, with a clear scene depicted, yet a focus not on capturing all the minute details of the scene, but instead the essence of the land and spirit of the place. So it comes as no surprise that individuals within the art colonies at New Hope School in Pennsylvania and Old Lyme in Connecticut—both places where groups of artists gathered and began to establish artwork that focused largely on the landscapes on which they lived—inspired West. This included men such as New Hope School’s Daniel Garber and Edward Redfield and Old Lyme’s Child Hassam, Willard Metcalf and Guy Wiggins. The 20th century’s California Impressionists—Edgar Payne, William Wendt, Alson Skinner Clark, Hanson Puthuff and Guy Rose—were also a group that inspired West, as they too focused on the natural land around them, unlike many French Impressionists, who preferred to paint city scenes, industrial sights and modern life with attention on human activity. The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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Bluffton Oyster Factory Shuckers “Many artists that I admire from this era were capturing vanishing cultures, lifestyles and places, as in my work, I have naturally been interested in a specificity of place or documentation angle,” explains West, who was born in 1955 in Savannah and moved to Hilton Head Island with his father, Joseph B. Fraser (Charles E. Fraser’s older brother), and witnessed the transformation of Hilton Head with the development of Sea Pines Plantation. This huge transformation—from a wild, yet serene, sea island to gated communities and golf courses—is, perhaps, why West seeks to capture the coasts and cultures that seem to be disappearing. That’s what led him to Toomer’s in Bluffton, where he painted the Bluffton Oyster Factory Shuckers, which got such a great response West established The Joseph Bacon and Carolyn Bexley Fraser Sustainable Seafood Harvest Fund at The Community Foundation of the Lowcountry to help protect local waterways. “Money raised from the sale of reproductions of the painting go directly to the fund to be used for conservation programs and efforts which are focused on maintaining the Port Royal Sound Basin and the Calibogue Sound Basin and the surrounding areas as a healthy ecosystem and viable estuaries for sustainable seafood harvest, today and into the future,” he says. That’s the heart of West’s work—preservation. That’s what he’s doing by painting the scenes surrounding his home: preserving memories and saving scenes from a once-present day. “I paint to give people a window to a world that is both reminiscent and truthful of a place I love and respect,” West reveals. “I also hope my work builds appreciation of this coastal region and beyond.”

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WEST FRASER LECTURE AND BOOK SIGNINGS! Sept. 15

Book Signing and Lecture in Blufton, 5:30-8 p.m. Reservations Required: (843) 757-6293

Sept. 16

Discovery Show at the Southern Independent Booksellers Alliance in Savannah

Sept. 26

Book Signing and Talk at the Beaufort Historic Foundation

Oct. 5

Book Signing and Talk at USCB

Oct. 14

Book Signing at Port Royal Sound Foundation

Oct. 6

Book Signing and Talk at Palmetto Bluff Conservancy

Oct. 15 & 16

Artist Workshop at Palmetto Bluff

Oct. 23

Book Signing at The Store in Bluffton

For more information about these events, call Helena Fox Fine Art at (843) 723-0073.


The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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ARCHITECTURE

By Randolph Stewart ave you ever thought about how Bluffton was built in the late 1800s and early 1900s? Original growth longleaf pine and cypress was readily available, cut down and dragged out of the woods, milled by steam-driven saws, loaded onto steamships that delivered the material to our docks, or carried on wooden wagons pulled by mules to the site. Tabby or brick foundations made by men who learned from their fathers, who had learned from their fathers (many of them former slaves), who passed down the craft to the next generation to continue their trade. Roofing shingles, siding, cabinets and trim

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were made locally or onsite; the moldings shaped by hand planes. The scaffolding to get to the second floor was made onsite from split rails, lashed together and a lift was devised with block and tackle to pull lumber and flooring to the upper floors. Each element was made by true craftsmen and their apprentices, each of them specializing in a specific trade—some masters with multiple skills. Hand saws, block planes, hand chisels and augers were specialized tools of the day. No electricity, no power tools, no plywood, no air compressors and no nail guns. As time went on, technology started to take the place of craftsmanship.


Craftsmanship is not necessarily a skill, but an attitude and passion to do things right. It is not just found in carpentry, but also in pottery, cooking, music, surgery or shrimp net weaving. A craftsman loves what he does and pours his heart and experience into his acquired, learned or self-taught skill. Craftsmen walk in the footsteps of those who came before, tirelessly searching for perfection, and generously passing on their knowledge to those who work alongside them. A master carpenter is known for his tools: clean and sharp with patina on the handle that only comes from the sweat and oils of toiling hands and hours of labor. A rusty tool is no good at all. Yes, craftsmanship can be taught now in trade schools, but cannot be accomplished without years of experience. It is a way of life, requires pride in the accomplishments of each day, and is admired by fellow tradesmen and townsfolk.

Left: DP Giltner’s Shrimp Sculpture at the May River Excursions building Below: David Abney at work

With the boom in construction in Bluffton, there are thousands of laborers and tradesman; but only a few dozen true craftsmen. David Abney moved to Old Town 10 years ago and has made a valuable impact on the future of our little town. A third-generation contractor, Abney was schooled on the Island and began learning the remodeling trade. He later moved to Charleston, where he worked with his hands and mind on numerous restoration, remodeling, new commercial and residential projects; perfecting the many trades needed to be a complete builder. Along the way, he gained experience and developed the true ethic, passion and experience of a craftsman. David and his wife Kristy knew they wanted to raise their children in Bluffton and build his business doing what he loves, in the place he loves. Visit Chris Shoemaker’s new May River Excursions building on Calhoun Street and you will begin to understand. Designed by Pearce Scott, attention was given to each cut and placement of nails on the two-story, board and batten building. Inside, you walk on a stained concrete floor and see the simple trim, wood walls and ceiling painted in fun bright colors. But that is not all. The countertops and furniture, supplied by Hank Carroll, are made of 2-1/2” cedar with natural edges and gloss finish by Bluffton craftsman and artist D.P. Giltner, who also created the table displays of painted plywood and the iconic three-dimensional shrimp mounted on the side gable. The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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Attention to detail was everywhere you looked. With a mix of contemporary industrial and vernacular styling, one can say the craftsmen here included not just the carpenters who built the recycled wainscot and tobacco barn pine bar top with corrugated aluminum face, but those who built the exposed metal AC duct system, the white diagonal wall tile and subway tile and stainless steel fixtures and surfaces in the semi-open kitchen—all placed with precision. A list of other craftsmen who worked here must also include the interior designer and owner for their choice of colors, textures and fabrics, as well as the upholstery and tailored banquette running the entire length of the wall. The outdoor terrace and bar with 35 seats will be enjoyed this coming fall and spring. The details were done correctly everywhere you look. Let’s not forget to mention another craftsman, Chef Darren Macioszek. When designing a restaurant, you start with the menu, and it looks yummy!

Above: Nathan LaRue, superintendent of DH Abney, at work.

When May River Montessori School called, David came running, and not just because his children will go there. Adding a second floor and remodeling the old Hargray Building on Calhoun and Bridge Streets had a time restraint, if it was to be completed in time for school opening—and not without surprises (remodeling always is). One good discovery was that the roof deck of the old building had T&G pine decking and timbers. This treasure was milled and repurposed into post trim, window and door trim, crown molding, shoe cubbies, tables, benches and shelving. When Chierie Smith stopped by to get a few shots, she found carpenters milling old pine outside, metal workers welding and painters carefully applying the last coats of varnish and paint. As any great craftsman does, all surfaces and floors of finished work were covered and protected to prevent any damage. The school is now open. Getting an early peek at Calhoun’s in the Promenade was another treat.

Abney is not finished yet. The Farm on May River Road is another iconic building, designed by Michael Vaccaro. We admire the sound block and sand-finished stucco building with arched portico and the doors and windows made onsite from reclaimed oak. The restaurant will feature an open kitchen with the interior detailing of mixed recycled oak, beech and pine, supplied and installed by Tom Banach, another craftsman, and his apprentices. The passion of the general contractor passes down to each subcontractor. This building will be part of Old Town into the next century. Just down May River Road in Stock Farm, you will find Guilford Place Cottages, six Lowcountry homes currently under construction. The developer selected Pearce Scott to design them and D.H. Abney Company to build them. Each one is unique with Lowcountry details. Half are sold even though the roofs are not on. There is a reason for this! The builder selects the subcontractors and suppliers who believe in his philosophy of craftsmanship. But, stay turned, David will have lots more to come in the future. Now it must be said that there are many craftsmen who came before us to make the buildings that are still here, and other craftsmen whose work today can only be respected. The buildings and homes being built today—from Old Town to Colleton River to Palmetto Bluff—will become symbols of our history and heritage in the future, thanks to craftsmen like David Abney.

Below: Pearce Scott’s sketches of Guilford Place Cottages in Stock Farm.

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SEPTEMBER TIDES THURS 1

FRI 2

L H L H

3:25 9:45 3:41 10:00

AM AM PM PM

L H L H

4:06 10:27 4:24 10:40

AM AM PM PM

L H L H

4:45 11:08 5:05 11:20

AM AM PM PM

SUN 4

L H L

5:21 11:49 5:45

AM AM PM

MON 5

H L H L

12:00 5:55 12:30 6:24

AM AM PM PM

TUES 6

H L H L

12:41 6:30 1:14 7:04

AM AM PM PM

SAT 3

WED 7

THURS 8

FRI 9

H L H L H L H L H L H L

1:26 7:08 2:00 7:48 2:13 7:50 2:49 8:38 3:02 8:38 3:39 9:34

AM AM PM PM AM AM PM PM AM AM PM PM

SAT 10

H L H L

3:53 9:35 4:31 10:34

AM AM PM PM

SUN 11

H L H L

4:46 10:36 5:24 11:31

AM AM PM PM

MON 12

H L H

5:39 11:36 6:18

AM AM PM

TUES 13

L H L H

12:25 6:34 12:33 7:11

WED 14

L H L H

THURS 15

L H L H

FRI 16

L H L

6:07 12:31 6:38

AM PM PM

WED 21

H L H L

1:02 6:58 1:30 7:34

AM AM PM PM

THURS 22

H L H L

2:03 7:53 2:32 8:35

AM AM PM PM

AM AM PM PM

FRI 23

H L H L

3:04 8:54 3:33 9:40

AM AM PM PM

1:17 7:27 1:27 8:02

AM AM PM PM

SAT 24

H L H L

4:05 9:58 4:33 10:46

AM AM PM PM

2:06 8:18 2:20 8:50

AM AM PM PM

SUN 25

H L H L

5:05 11:03 5:32 11:47

AM AM PM PM

L H L H

2:55 9:07 3:12 9:37

AM AM PM PM

MON 26

H L H

6:04 12:03 6:28

AM PM PM

SAT 17

L H L H

3:34 9:55 4:04 10:25

AM AM PM PM

TUES 27

L H L H

12:41 7:00 12:57 7:21

AM AM PM PM

SUN 18

L H L H

4:30 10:45 4:54 11:14

AM AM PM PM

WED 28

L H L H

1:29 7:52 1:47 8:08

AM AM PM PM

MON 19

L H L

5:18 11:36 5:46

AM AM PM

THURS 29

L H L H

2:14 8:38 2:34 8:52

AM AM PM PM

TUES 20

H

12:06

AM

FRI 30

L H L H

2:55 9:20 3:18 9:33

AM AM PM PM

Tide chart is calculated for the May River. Full Moon September 16.

Hilton Head Boathouse Showroom: 1498 Fording Island Road Bluffton, SC 29910 Hilton Head Boathouse: 405 Squire Pope Road Hilton Head Island, 29926

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843-681-2628 www.hhboathouse.net


The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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Music

Town B LU F F TON VENUE GUIDE

The Roasting Room

Lounge & Listening Room 1297 May River Rd. (843) 368-4464 roastingroomlounge.com Sept. 9: Angie Aparo: A Celebration Tour Sept. 16: Cranford Hollow – Color/ Sound/Renew/Revive: A Full SensoryExperience Sept. 24: An Evening with Levi Lowrey & John Driskell Hopkins (founding member of Zac Brown Band)

Toomers’ Bluffton Oyster Restaurant

27 Dr. Mellichamp Dr. (843) 757-0380 blufftonoyster.com Tim Malchak plays on Friday and Saturday nights.

Captain Woody’s Bluffton

F

rom Old Town to Buckwalter Place, outdoors or inside, Bluffton is a true Music Town with a variety of venues showcasing talented local, regional and national bands and musicians. Here are just a few places around town to hear some live music. Call the listed phone numbers or visit individual websites for complete entertainment schedules.

17 State of Mind St. (843) 757-6222 captainwoodys.com

Corks Wine Co.

14 Promenade St. (843) 815-5168 corkswinecobluffton.com Live music every Tuesday and Friday.

Old Town Dispensary Carson Cottages 15 Captains Cove Rd. (843) 837-1893 otdbluffton.com Live music nightly in the Budweiser Beer Garden.

Fat Patties Bluffton 207 Bluffton Rd. (843) 815-6300 fat-patties.com

Bluffton Sunset Party

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Bluffton Oyster Factory Park 63 Wharf St. blufftonsunsetparty.com Sept. 17: OCD and La Bodega at Blufftemberfest


The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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May River Grill Salmon Dijonnaise

COURTESY OF EXECUTIVE CHEF, CHARLIE STERNBURGH

Method Ingredients

Preheat oven to 325˚.

Flour salmon. Use a spoon to spread whole grain 1 lb. Salmon Filet, cut into mustard on meat side of fish 2 pieces (about 1 tablespoon per ¼ cup Flour piece of fish). Pat mustard1 small jar Whole Grain side of fish with Panko bread Mustard crumbs. ¼ cup Panko Bread In a sauté pan, brown Crumbs mustard-side of fish only in Olive Oil olive oil. This should only ½ pint Heavy Cream take 2 minutes. Flip fish and 1 tablespoon Sugar place in oven for 8 minutes. 1 teaspoon Chicken Paste While fish is baking, ¼ stick of Butter combine heavy cream, 3 tablespoons of whole grain mustard, sugar and chicken paste in a small pot and whisk hard. Bring sauce to a boil. Roll the butter in flour, add to sauce and whisk until it thickens. Serve over the salmon. Enjoy with a nice bottle of Fumé Blanc. 40 bluffton.com


The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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Courtesy of The Pearl Kitchen & Bar

BLUFFTON’S

RESTAURANT GUIDE Agave Side Bar** Southwestern 13 State Of Mind St. (843) 757-9190

The Village Pasta Shoppe** Italian, Deli, Wine, 10 B. Johnston Way (across from Post Office) (843) 540-2095

Captain Woody’s Seafood, Sandwich, Salads 17 State Of Mind St., The Promenade (843) 757-6222

Cahill’s Chicken Kitchen** Southern 1055 May River Rd. (843) 757-2921

Walnuts Café** Contemporary 70 Pennington Dr., Ste. 20 (843) 815-2877

Choo Choo BBQ Express Barbeque, Pulled Pork, Ribs 129 Burnt Church Rd. (843) 815-7675

Corner Perk** Breakfast, Lunch, Coffee Promenade St. & May River Rd. (843) 816-5674 May River Grill** Seafood Contemporary Old Town Bluffton  1263 May River Rd. (843) 757-5755

Bluffton BBQ Barbeque, Pork, Ribs 11 State Of Mind St. (843) 757-7427

Claude & Uli’s Bistro French 1533 Fording Island Rd. #302, Moss Creek Village (843) 837-3336

The Bluffton Room Fine dining 15 Promenade St. (843) 757-3525

Corks Wine Co. Contemporary, Tapas 14 Promenade St. #306, The Promenade (843) 816-5168

The Oyster Bar** Seafood 15 State Of Mind St., The Promenade (843) 837-1893

The Brick Chicken American 1011 Fording Island Rd. (843) 836-5040

The Cottage Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner 38 Calhoun St. (843) 757-0508

The Pearl Kitchen and Bar** Fine Dining 55 Calhoun St. (843) 757-5511

British Open Pub Pub, Seafood, Steaks 1 Sherington Dr. #G, Sheridan Park (843) 705-4005

Downtown Deli Burgers, Sandwiches 27 Dr. Mellichamp Dr. (843) 815-5005

Squat ‘N’ Gobble** American, Greek 1231 May River Rd. (843) 757-4242

Buffalo’s Contemporary 1 Village Park Sq. (843) 706-6630

Fat Patties Burgers, Sandwiches 207 Bluffton Rd. (843) 815-6300

Toomers’ Bluffton Seafood House** Seafood 27 Dr. Mellichamp Dr. (843) 757-0380

Butcher’s Market and Dell Deli 102 Buckwalter Pkwy., Ste. 3G (843) 815-6328

Hinchey’s Chicago Bar & Grill American 104 Buckwalter Pl., Ste. 1A (843) 836-5959 

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Hogshead Kitchen Contemporary 1555 Fording Island Rd., Moss Creek Village (843) 837-4647

Napoli Bistro Pizzeria & Wine Bar Italian, Mediterranean   68 Bluffton Rd. (843) 706-9999

Sigler’s Rotisserie & Seafood Contemporary 12 Sheridan Park Circle (843) 815-5030

Inn At Palmetto Bluff Continental 1 Village Park Sq., Palmetto Bluff Village (843) 706-6500

Neo Gastropub - Farm To Table Fare 1533 Fording Island Rd. #326, Moss Creek Village (843) 837-5111

Southern Barrel Brewing Co. American 375 Buckwalter Place Blvd. (843) 837-2337 

The Juice Hive Juice Bar 14 Johnston Way, Bluffton Village (843) 757-BUZZ (2889)

Okatie Ale House American 25 William Pope Dr. (843) 706-2537

Katie O’Donald’s Irish, American 1008 Fording Island Rd. #B, Kitties Crossing (843) 815-5555 Longhorn Steakhouse American   1262 Fording Island Rd., Tanger Outlet 1  (843) 705-7001 Mulberry Street Trattoria Italian     1476 Fording Island Rd. (843) 837-2426

Old Town Dispensary Contemporary 15 Captains Cove, off Calhoun St.

Stooges Cafe American 25 Sherington Dr. (843) 706-6178  ** See the ads in The Breeze and Bluffton.com for more info

Pour Richard’s Contemporary 4376 Bluffton Pkwy. (843) 757-1999 (843) 837-1893 Redfish Contemporary 32 Bruin Rd. Old Town Bluffton (843) 837-8888

Courtesy of Agave Side Bar

The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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being able to put seven carts in the place of two parallel car spaces. Although motorized carts didn’t come into public use until the 1950s, they were invented in 1935. Lyman Beecher, an electrical engineer from Clearwater, Florida, put together a contraption that looked like a rickshaw with two wheels and a seat that required two caddies to pull it. Beecher used it at his summer home at Biltmore Forest Country Club in Asheville, North Carolina, because he didn’t think he could walk the hilly course. Five years later, Beecher modified his design, creating a four-wheeled cart powered by electricity. However, one problem was that six car batteries were needed for the power to last 18 holes. After World War II, Texas oilman R.J. Jackson applied for and received the first United States patent for a golf cart called the “Arthritis Special.”’ He designed the three-wheeled, gas-powered vehicle so older golfers could continue playing the game. According to 1956 article in Popular Mechanics, the golf cart had gained wide acceptance by the mid-1950s, with several manufacturers—including Victor Adding Machines and Sears and Roebuck— producing carts, most of them electric. Other companies soon followed suit, such as E-ZGo in 1954, Cushman in 1955, Club Car in 1958, Taylor-Dunn in 1961 and Yamaha Golf Car in 1979. Max Walker created the first gasoline-powered golf cart called “The Walker Executive” in 1957. This threewheeled vehicle was shaped with a Vespastyle front end and carried two passengers and their bags. Mass production of electric carts began after World War II, but the early models were not very reliable. oday, golf carts are being used for much more than a round of golf. On any given day in Bluffton, we see more and more golf cars joining in parades, at the Farmer’s Market on Thursdays, at our many festivals, out shopping or at shows, in the school drop off line, at work, while dining out or visiting friends—even our police department has them. Half of the time you see dogs riding through Bluffton on golf carts, with their ears flapping and a smile on their face or sitting dutifully waiting on their master. Not in New York! Many new buyers are putting the cart before the course and using them localIy. Think of the gas saved, not to mention all the free parking spaces. Imagine Old Town with designated golf cart parking and

44 bluffton.com

Many times, they suffered from battery failure and had to be recharged after nine holes. In 1951, the Wonch Battery Company of Michigan, developed a battery which lasted between 18 and 27 holes on a single charge. In the 1980s, an electric cart could go about five 18-hole rounds without recharging. Today, the average electric cart will operate for 100 holes before it needs to be charged. On the other hand, gasolinepowered carts have a five- or six-gallon tank and need to be filled about once a week, if you like the noise and smoke.


South Carolina is one of the first states to permit Low Speed Vehicles on streets with a speed limit of 35 mph or under and at night. However, a valid driver’s license is required for golf carts and LSVs. Low Speed Vehicles are a growing trend, and not just for safety reasons. See SC Code § 56-2-100 (2012) Conditions for operation on street or highway for details.

The Walker Executive In 1963, the Harley Davidson Motor Company began producing golf cars. They manufactured thousands of three- and four-wheeled gas and electric vehicles that are still highly sought after by collectors worldwide. In 1982, Harley Davidson sold the production of golf cars to the Columbia Car Company. Now, the Columbia Vehicle Group produces Low Speed Vehicles (LSV) that are street legal in South Carolina under the Tomberlin and ParCar brand. 3-D Golf Cars on Burnt Church Road in Bluffton represents Tomberlin and ParCar’s in the region. Local and family owned, Robert, Karen and Damian Gourlay are currently building a showroom in the Calhoun Promenade that will be the “Rodeo Drive” of Golf Cars and LSVs opening in early spring. Prior to LSVs, golf carts had a history of injuries and fatalities…thus they must stay on specified local roads and not be out after dark. The Villages in Florida has over 80,000 carts and, in the last six years, there have been 24 fatalities, all caused by ejection. A study published in 2008 by the American Journal of Preventive Medicine, estimated 148,000 golf cart-related injuries between 1990 and 2006. Many were rear seat passengers, and most all had two-wheel brakes instead of four-wheel. More than 30% of golf cartrelated injuries i n v o l v e d children under the age of 16. In the 1950s, there were approximately 1,000 carts in use, today there are more than two million in America, so the number of injuries is increasing.

The LSV Now, let’s compare some of the differences between LSVs and golf carts. They both have a horn, headlights, taillights, brake lights and a parking brake, factory standard. State-approved LSVs must have emergency flashers and light, three-point seat belts, a third brake light, illuminated speedometer and odometer, DOTapproved tires and windshield, wipers, amber reflectors on the corners, able to go at a minimum speed of 21 mph and maximum speed of 25 mph (golf carts only go 19.9 mph), driver and passenger-side external mirrors and a VIN number for licensing. You will also find models that have a steel roof frame, anti-sway bars, turn signals, two speed switch, larger tires with custom wheels and batteries that last 40+ miles versus 20 miles for the old golf carts. If you haven’t seen a LSV yet, stop by 3-D Golf Car to check out the Tomberlin. You won’t believe the innovations and safety features, not to mention the innovative design and comfort. They also do customizing and almost all repairs, as well as battery sales and service. By the way, they will pick up and deliver your cart for most any repair and can also pimp it out for you. Drive Safe! Call (843) 815-2203 or visit threedgolfcar.com for more information. The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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The Breeze SEPTEMBER 2016

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The Breeze Sept 2016  

The Magazine of Bluffton

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