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Fashion & Textiles

2016


Cover and interior photography by Niall McInerney


Fashion & Textiles 2016 Contents

Online Products 2 General Interest 5 Introduction to Fashion and Fashion Careers 10 Fashion Law and Ethics 13 Sustainable Fashion 14 Fashion Forecasting 16 Branding 18 Fashion Merchandising and Promotion 20 Fashion Design 26 Illustration 30 Product Development 33 Technical Design and CAD for Fashion 34 Tailoring 36 Patternmaking and Draping 37 Sewing Techniques 41 Introduction to Textiles 44 Textile Design and Technology 46 Textile History and Culture 48 Reference 49 Fashion and Costume History 51 The Dress and Fashion Research Series 54 Fashion, Culture and Society 55 Dress, Body, Culture 56 World Dress and Anthropology 59 STUDIO Table 60 Index 61 Representatives and Agents 63

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www/Textbook In addition to the above, books with this symbol also have a companion website or online resources. EBooks Available for your e-reader or library for many titles. Please consult our website for pricing and availability. UK, Europe and Rest of World Bloomsbury Publishing 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK T +44 (0)207 631 5600 F +44 (0)207 631 5800 academic@bloomsbury.com UK Trade Orders Macmillan Distribution (MDL) Brunel Road, Houndmills, Basingstoke, RG21 6XT, UK T +44 (0)1256 302692 F +44 (0)1256 812521 / 812558 orders@macmillan.co.uk

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Bloomsbury is pleased to announce that the first feature of Bloomsbury Fashion Central is now live! Students are able to redeem their STUDIO access codes to take quizzes, use flashcards, watch videos, and more. Bloomsbury Fashion Central is a one-stop shop for fashion educators, students, and industry professionals that will also include the Fashion Photography Archive in one cross-searchable resource. Users will find classroom, research, and teaching content in one convenient place, connected by a sophisticated search and browse and a common taxonomy. For more details, including subscription options and free trials, please visit www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com. Launching 2016

Fairchild Books EBooks Available on Institutional Subscription Fairchild Books is the world’s leading publisher of academic materials on fashion. With Bloomsbury Fashion Central, Fairchild Books goes digital, providing an institutional subscription product – The Fairchild Books Library – that will be a go-to resource for instructors and students. • Over 130 textbooks available digitally as a comprehensive library of fashion resources • Personalized assessment, videos and study tools, closely integrated with reading assignments and classroom teaching to aid both students and lecturers • Instant access to inspection copies and instructor materials • Free institutional trials will be available Fairchild Books Library is available outside North America only

For subscription enquiries, please contact fairchildbookslibrary@bloomsbury.com.

Books marked with this symbol are available on Bloomsbury Fashion Central and will be in the Fairchild Books Library. www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

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T  his logo indicates Fairchild Books with online student resources. These resources are included in the Fairchild Books Library.


Launching in 2016

Designed specifically for students and researchers, the Fashion Photography Archive is a fully searchable and meticulously indexed resource, containing over 750,000 high quality runway, backstage, and street style images digitized for the first time, hundreds of articles, an interactive timeline, and video resources to provide context and analysis from expert scholars and commentators. • Launch collection curated and articles commissioned by Editor-in-Chief Dr. Valerie Steele, an internationally renowned scholar and Director of the Museum at FIT in New York • Covers international runway shows from the 1970s until 2000, including key designers such as McQueen, Gaultier, Westwood, Chalayan and Galliano • Resources for teaching and learning, including video and lesson plans For subscription or order enquires please contact fashionphotographyarchive@bloomsbury.com. All images ©Bloomsbury Publishing from the Niall McInerney Photography Archive.

Winner of: PCA/ACA Electronic Reference Award · Dartmouth Medal for Outstanding Reference · ALA Outstanding Reference Source · Bookseller FutureBook Award for Best Website · Independent Publishers Guild Frankfurt Book Fair Digital Award · Booklist Editor’s Choice

Incorporating the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion*, this unique online portal is the leading source of information on dress and fashion. The Library offers users crosssearchable access to an expanding range of essential resources, and is updated at least three times a year to keep students, scholars, and professionals at the cutting edge of research. • Forthcoming! A new Exhibitions Archive comprised of images, key information and exclusive curator comments on fashion exhibitions, past and present • Free lesson plans with links through to live online content • An extensive color image bank with contributions from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the V&A Museum, and more • Exclusive online articles, study guides, and seminal pieces on fashion, including classic and contemporary essays, and primary sources • EBook collection includes full text of 78 fashion eBooks • Extra reference sources, such as an A-Z of Fashion, The Dictionary of Fashion History, and a museum directory For subscription enquiries visit www.bergfashionlibrary.com. * Also available in print as a set or as individual volumes. Outside North America, order from your usual supplier or www.bloomsbury.com (ISBN 978-1-84788-104-5). Within North America, available as The Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion through Oxford University Press.

REGISTER NOW FOR A FREE TRIAL Free 30-day trials are available to institutions and organizations wishing to preview the Berg Fashion Library. Customers in North and South America contact us at oxfordonline@oup.com. Customers outside North and South America contact us at freetrials@oup.com. Berg Fashion Library is distributed by Oxford University Press.

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New online library from the creators of the multi-award-winning Berg Fashion Library

 Available from 2017 on institutional subscription, the Bloomsbury Design Library will provide instant access to online editions of major reference works, academic eBooks, thousands of images from museums and archives, and resources for instructors and students. Free trials will be available. • Key reference works available for the first time as enhanced online editions, including The Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Design, Victor Margolin’s World History of Design and the Encyclopedia of Asian Design • An extensive eBook collection with over 60 original titles in design and craft studies • A searchable colour image library containing thousands of images from major museums and archives • Free lesson plans addressing key topics for study • Illustrated timelines and bibliographic guides with links through to online content • A custom taxonomy enabling intuitive search and discovery of topics within design history, theory and practice

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Interested in receiving more information? Register for news and updates at www.bloomsburydesignlibrary.com


General Interest

Fashion Victims The Dangers of Dress Past and Present Alison Matthews David

“Combining narrative verve with a brilliant selection of pictures, Fashion Victims is both an engaging read and a ‘useable history’. Meticulously researched, it wears its academic credentials lightly, and the story it tells is at once entertaining and startling. Fashion history will never seem quite the same again.” Caroline Evans, Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK

September 2015 256 pages 129 colour illus 246 x 189mm / 9.7 x 7.4 inches HB 9781845204495 £25.00 / $40.00 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Fabulously gory and gruesome, Fashion Victims takes the reader on a fascinating journey through the toxic history of dress, in myth and reality. Drawing upon numerous visual and textual sources, from nonsensical mad hatters and lice-ridden soldiers, to the fiery deaths of Oscar Wilde’s half-sisters, the book explores how garments have actually, purportedly, or mythically, tormented those who made and wore them. Vividly chronicling evidence from Greek mythology to the present day, Matthews David puts everyday apparel under the microscope and unpicks the dark side of fashion. Alison Matthews David is Associate Professor in the School of Fashion, Ryerson University, Toronto, Canada. Contents Introduction: Death by Fashion in Fact and Fiction 1. Diseased Dress: Germ Warfare 2. Toxic Techniques: Mercurial Hats 3. Poisonous Pigments: Arsenical Greens 4. Dangerous Dyes: A Pretty, Deadly Rainbow 5. Entangled and Strangled: Caught in the Machine 6. Inflammatory Fabrics: Flaming Tutus and Combustible Crinolines 7. Explosive Fakes: Plastic Combs and Artificial Silk Conclusion: The Afterlife of Fashion Victims Bibliography Index

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General Interest

Fashion’s Front Line Fashion Show Photography from the Runway to Backstage Nilgin Yusuf

“I’m so happy that Niall is doing a book, a chance I hope for people to see pieces from my fashions starting from the beginning, and he does capture the excitement.” Vivienne Westwood “Niall McInerney’s images burst from the page in this fashion feast matched by Nilgin Yusuf’s fascinating insights into the colourful culture of an evolving catwalk...this is a musthave for fashion-lovers and aficionados… this book will be my fashion bible from now on!” Felicity Green OBE, fashion journalist and former newspaper executive

UK September 2015 US December 2015 192 pages 200 colour illus 276 x 219mm / 10.7 x 8.6 inches HB 9781472596598 £25.00 / $40.00 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

A visual journey through three decades of photographing shows in Paris, Milan, London and New York, Fashion’s Front Line showcases the extraordinary work of catwalk photographer Niall McInerney. The book captures many rare and never-before-seen images of iconic moments on the runway, famous faces on front row, the atmosphere backstage and dazzling after-show parties. With commentary from the photographer himself, as well as interviews with the fashion insiders, Fashion’s Front Line is a unique window onto the world of late 20th-century fashion. Niall McInerney is an international runway photographer whose work spans over three decades. Nilgin Yusuf is currently Programme Director for the Media and Communications Programme within the London College of Fashion’s Graduate School, UK. Contents 1. Fashion’s Front Line: The Culture of Catwalk 2. Preparing for Battle: Becoming a Catwalk Photographer 3. Capturing the Catwalk: The Skills and Scrums of Runway Photography 4. Catwalk Coups: Gamechanging Collections

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5. Fashion Factions and Designer Battle Lines 6. Full Scale Assault on the Senses: Spectacular Show Production 7. New Model Army: Walking the Walk 8. Blazing Style, Dynamite Charisma; Front Row and Beyond

9. Inside the Bunker: Magic and Mayhem Backstage 10. Surprise Ambush: the Unexpected and Unscheduled 11. March of Technology: Changing Tech and the Future of Catwalk 12. Postscript: Reflections on Fashion’s Battlefield


General Interest

The First Book of Fashion The Book of Clothes of Matthäus and Veit Konrad Schwarz of Augsburg Edited by Ulinka Rublack and Maria Hayward

“The First Book of Fashion tells the fascinating story of Matthäus Schwarz (b. 1497), a bourgeois man in Renaissance Germany, who was as fashion-obsessed as the trendiest teenagers in contemporary Tokyo. Like them, he documented his changing styles in a series of painted “selfies,” which he gathered together in a little “book of clothes,” which has now been brilliantly analyzed.” Valerie Steele, multiaward-winning fashion scholar and Director of the Museum at FIT, New York, US This captivating book reproduces arguably the most extraordinary primary source documents in fashion history and demonstrates how dress is a potent tool in the right hands. Beyond this, it colorfully recaptures the experience of Renaissance life and reveals the importance of clothing to the aesthetics and every day culture of the period. This first English translation also includes a bespoke pattern by TONY award-winning costume designer and dress historian Jenny Tiramani, from which readers can recreate one of Schwarz’s most elaborate and politically significant outfits. Ulinka Rublack is Professor of Early Modern European History at Cambridge University, UK. Maria Hayward is Professor in Early Modern European History at the University of Southampton, UK.

Contents List of Illustrations Preface, Jochen Luckhardt Introduction I: The First Book of Fashion, Ulinka Rublack Introduction II: The Clothing of Matthäus and Veit Schwarz, Maria Hayward Editorial Notes The Book of Clothes with Commentaries Reconstructing a Schwarz Outfit, Jenny Tiramani German Transcriptions Glossary Acknowledgements

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October 2015 432 pages 187 colour illus 276 x 219mm / 10.7 x 8.6 inches HB 9780857857682 £30.00 / $45.00 Bloomsbury Academic


Introduction to Fashion and Fashion Careers www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Guide to Fashion Career Planning Job Search, Resumes and Strategies for Success V. Ann Paulins and Julie L. Hillery

www/Textbook Guide to Fashion Career Planning provides an in-depth overview of preparing for a career in the fashion industry— across many job possibilities, skill sets, and career interests— and guides the readers through professional preparation from goal setting all the way to finding the first job. This book presents a seamless and comprehensive approach to everything needed for professional and career development covering resume writing, interviewing, social media, job search strategies, internships and portfolios for fashion design, merchandising and retail careers. V. Ann Paulins is Senior Associate Dean of Research and Graduate Studies at Ohio University, USA. Julie Hillery is Chair and Instructor at The University of New Mexico, USA.

Features • Details career paths in the fashion industry with examples of specific positions • Discusses how to build a professional network and work with mentors • Explains how conduct a job search, interview effectively, and gain work experience • Offers advice on professional ethics, personal branding and how to transition from one job position to another to advance in a career Included in the Guide to Fashion Career Planning STUDIO • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips • Flashcards of essential vocabulary • Videos that bring chapter concepts to life • Templates for resumes, cover letters and professional documents that student will need as they enter the workforce • Samples of good and poor quality resumes and portfolios • Complete personal assessment exercises to identify strengths and interests • Access links to online job resources and tools Contents Preface 1. Introduction to Careers in the Fashion Industry 2. Preparing to Become a Professional 3. Branding Yourself 4. Preparing Your Professional Portfolio 5. The Job Search and Networking for Career Growth

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6. Resumes and Cover Letters 7. Interviewing 8. Work Experiences and Internships 9. Professional Ethics 10. Transitioning from College to Career Index

UK April 2016 US March 2016 296 pages 50 bw illus 254 x 178mm / 10 x 7 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501314711 £34.00 / $60.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501314698 Fairchild Books


Introduction to Fashion and Fashion Careers 2nd Edition www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

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Key Titles

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Fashion Entrepreneurship Retail Business Planning

Entrepreneurship in Action A Retail Store Simulation

Michele M. Granger and Tina M. Sterling

Rosalie J. Regni and Jimmie G. Anderson

2011

2008

392 pages 2 colour illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395451 £50.00 / $95.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395215 Fairchild Books

432 pages 60 bw illus Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395444 £54.00 / $105.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395208 Fairchild Books

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Guide to Fashion Entrepreneurship The Plan, the Product, the Process

Careers!

Melissa G. Carr and Lisa Hopkins Newell

Julie L. Hillery and V. Ann Paulins 2005 288 pages 40 bw illus 235 x 187mm / 9.25 x 7.37 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395413 £50.00 / $90.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395178 Fairchild Books

256 pages 130 colour illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches 9781609014933 £60.00 / $100.00 Fairchild Books

In Fashion

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Professional Development for Retailing and Apparel Merchandising

2014

2nd Edition www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

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4th Edition www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Elaine Stone

The Dynamics of Fashion

2011

Elaine Stone

352 pages 300 colour illus Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501309816 £60.00 / $110.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501315138 Fairchild Books

2013

www/Textbook

480 pages 500 color illus 305 x 229mm / 12 x 9 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395543 £60.00 / $125.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395536 Fairchild Book

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Introduction to Fashion and Fashion Careers

Key Titles

Textbook

Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry Andrew Reilly

Accessibly written and logically structured, this study provides a concise introduction to fashion theories for all foundation level students, covering cultural, social and individual influences on fashion and how the fashion system works. Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry offers clear, practical examples and international case studies, making complex theory easy to digest. Andrew Reilly is Associate Professor of Apparel Product Design and Merchandising at the University of Hawaii, Manoa, USA.

UK August 2014 US October 2014 152 pages 40 bw illus 244 x 169mm / 9.6 x 6.7 inches PB 9780857853653 £17.99 / $29.95 HB 9780857853646 £55.00 / $99.95 Series: Understanding Fashion Bloomsbury Academic

Students Contains discussion questions, activities and further reading Contents 1. Overview 2. The Fashion System 3. Cultural Influence on Fashion 4. Social Influence on Fashion 5. Individual Influence on Fashion 6. Conclusion Bibliography Index

fashion it loses its cultural significance, is viewed as costume, and offends the originating group. Some designers find inspiration from controversial groups, such as the Hate Couture trend. Hate Couture incorporates elements of the Nazi regime or Ku Klux Klan into fashion, such as armbands with the Nazi swastika, Nazi uniforms, and shoes with the swastika on the sole (so that they leave the impression in the ground). The trend even reached celebrities and couture fashion; in 1995 the fashion house of Jean-Louis Scherrer (designed by Bernard Perris) showed couture pieces with Nazi insignia;1 in 2005 Prince Harry of England wore a Nazi armband to a costume party and in 2006 Rocky Mazzilli offered a couture ensemble with a prominent swastika on the skirt. Elsewhere, Nazi fashion has become popular among Harajuku trendsetters. Elements of the United States Deep South can also be seen as offensive to some people. The Confederate flag is a source of controversy (some view it as racist whereas others view it as heritage) and is featured on t-shirts, shoes, bathing suits, and so forth. Meanwhile, in 2012 the Ku Klux Klan distinctive robes inspired Ivaek Archer of Chiz’l Menswear to reveal a men’s robe with hoodie in the shape of the Ku Klux Klan’s pointed hood, while in 2012 Rei Kawakubo showed a wedding ensemble with pointed hood at Paris fashion week.2

BOXED CASE 6.2: CLASSICS CAN HAVE FASHIONABLE DETAILS TOO At the beginning of this text you read that fashions were different from fads and classic, and while this is true, there is one caveat that you should understand. Classics can have fashionable components to them. The little black dress is considered a classic of fashion, with its lineage dating back to Coco Chanel in the 1920s, but details such as ruffles, neckline, hemline, and silhouette have changed depending on the Zeitgeist. Likewise, Converse shoes have a classic silhouette, but the choice of color, print (e.g., solid, stripe, camouflage), and fabrication (e.g., canvas, leather) can vary with a trend (see Figure 6.3). The trench coat is also considered a classic, with Thomas Burberry claiming invention in 1901. The style has remained relatively unchanged for over a century, but details such as colors, fabrications, hem lengths, sleeve style, and buttons have changed to align with fashionable movements. The example in Figure 6.4 illustrates and demonstrates fashionable elements. In addition to their fabrication (cotton twill, wax-coated nylon, and fine merino wool) the cuffs vary with a curved, pointed, or nonexistent sleeve band. Thus, although there are some items of dress that are deemed “unchangeable,” in reality there are little changes that belie the influence of fashion.

Figure 6.3 Converse shoes, considered a classic, often have fashionable elements that change, like color and print. Natali Glado/Shutterstock.com.

Figure 6.4 Details from three trench coats show the influence of fashion on a classic item of dress. Trench coats courtesy of author.

KEY CONCEPTS FOR THE FASHION INDUSTRY

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3rd Edition www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

The Fashion Industry and Its Careers An Introduction Michele M. Granger

09/04/2014 12:44

www/Textbook The Fashion Industry and Its Careers explores all fashion careers, the education and training required for each position, and how it relates to the industry as a whole. • Covers a wide range of careers including new coverage of accessory design, styling, and digital media careers including fashion blogging, website design and graphic design. • Provides all the essential information on finding a job in the competitive fashion industry, and progressing within it • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and PowerPoint presentations available Michele M. Granger is a Professor in the Fashion and Interior Design Department, College of Business Administration, at Missouri State University, USA.

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UK June 2015 US April 2015 496 pages 184 bw illus and 16pp colour plate section 203 x 254mm / 8 x 10 inches PB 9781628923414 £66.00 / $110.00 Fairchild Books

CONCLUSION


Fashion Law and Ethics

Key Titles

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Ethics in the Fashion Industry V. Ann Paulins and Julie L. Hillery

www/Textbook Ethics in the Fashion Industry provides readers with the tools they need to develop and practice ethical decision-making skills. V. Ann Paulins is a professor and Director of Retail Merchandising at Ohio University, USA. Julie L. Hillery is the Kohl’s Professor of Retailing and Merchandising and faculty at Northern Illinois University, USA.

2009 288 pages 25 bw illus Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395420 £48.00 / $90.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395185 Fairchild Books

Features • Real-world examples, including ethical dilemmas, statistics, and key terms • Questions at the end of each chapter provoking thought and discussion about ethical issues Included in the Guide to Fashion Career Planning STUDIO • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips • Integrated projects and case studies • Challenge your skills with Chapter review quizzes • Images of sample forms and content previously contained on CD-ROM packaged with this book Contents 1. Ethics in Everyday Life 2. Corporate Culture 3. People at Work: Management, Supervision, and Workplace Issues 4. Processes and Pitfalls of the Design and Development of Fashion 5. Ethical Aspects of Manufacturing and Sourcing Fashion Products 6. Acquiring Apparel

7. People Who Produce and Manufacture Apparel: Responsibilities and Liabilities in a Complex Industry 8. Advertising and Promotion 9. Selling: Decisions, Practices, and Professional Ethics 10. Consumer Decisions in an Ethical Context 11. Self-Promotion and Career Search with an Ethical Perspective

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2nd Edition

Fashion Law A Guide for Designers, Fashion Executives, and Attorneys Edited by Guillermo C. Jimenez and Barbara Kolsun

The revised edition of Fashion Law provides authoritative information on all legal aspects of the fashion business, with new information on intellectual property law and cases. • Provides practical tips and templates for legal agreements • Sample clauses familiarise readers with the legal language that covers the rights and responsibilities of the parties to agreements

UK May 2014 US March 2014 416 pages 16 bw illus 152 x 229mm / 6 x 9 inches PB 9781609018955 £64.00 / $100.00 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and PowerPoint presentations available Guillermo C. Jimenez is Professor of International Trade and Marketing at Fashion Institute of Technology, USA, and an adjunct at International School of Management in Paris (France), the New York University Stern School of Business and New York’s Iona College (USA). Barbara Kolsun is an adjunct professor at the New York University School of Law and Benjamin N. Cardozo Law School at Yeshiva University, USA.

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Sustainable Fashion

Textbook

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Zero Waste Fashion Design Timo Rissanen and Holly McQuillan

“This book should revolutionize how we teach flat patternmaking.” Elizabeth Shorrock, Assistant Professor, Fashion Studies, Columbia College Chicago, USA. A comprehensive, illustrated introduction to zero waste fashion design by the foremost pioneers of research on this subject.

UK December 2015 US January 2016 216 pages 200 colour illus 270 x 210mm / 10.6 x 8.3 inches PB 9781472581983 £34.99 / $59.95 Series: Required Reading Range Fairchild Books

Timo Rissanen is the Assistant Professor of Fashion Design and Sustainability at Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA. Holly McQuillan is Senior Lecturer in Design at the College of Creative Arts at Massey University, New Zealand. Features • Stunning, full-colour visuals illustrating zero waste designs covering women’s and menswear • Includes range of designs and techniques to motivate student learning • Showcases innovative techniques with full projects, tips, and friendly, flexible advice from the authors Contents

2. Pattern cutting as a fashion design tool Creative pattern cutting Interview with Winifred Aldrich, fashion author (UK) Patterns in design ideation Interview with Julian Roberts, fashion designer (UK) Interview with Shingo Sato, fashion designer (Japan/Italy) 3. Zero waste fashion design: the basics Criteria for zero waste fashion design The design ideation toolbox Interview with Skaidra Matas, fashion designer (US) Risky design practice Designing with the fabric width 14

4. Zero waste fashion design and CAD Marker—making as design activity Interview with Julia Lumsden, fashion designer (New Zealand) New opportunities for CAD Combining digital technologies 5. Manufacturing zero—waste garments Fashion design and fashion manufacture Grading zero waste garments Fabric in manufacturing zero waste garments Interview with Tara St James, fashion designer (US) 6. Your process: getting started A few words on inspiration Interview with Kia Koski, fashion design scholar (Finland) Documenting and reflecting on design Interview with Materialbyproduct, fashion brand (Australia) A few words on sharing Interview with Yeohlee Teng, Malaysian-born, New York-based fashion designer (US) Glossary Index Acknowledgements

CHAPTER

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zero waste fashion design: the basics

Zero waste fashion design: The basics

Introduction 1. Zero-waste from history to now Zero waste across cultures and eras Interview with Alexandra Palmer, Senior Curator, Royal Ontario Museum (Canada) Modern zero waste fashion design Interview with Zandra Rhodes, fashion designer (London, UK) Interview with Maja Stabel, fashion designer (Norway)

This chapter focuses on successful strategies and techniques for zero waste fashion design. Through practice over time, you will likely come up with your own techniques that work for you. Embrace risk in design as an access to new solutions; taking risks creates new possibilities. Designing within, and with, the fabric is integral to this kind of designing. In zero waste fashion design, fabric creates the space for inventive exploration.

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fIGuRe 65. Hoodie by Timo Rissanen (2008). Exploring the body pieces on the fabric width revealed the triangle shapes that became the hood in this garment. Photograph by Timo Rissanen.


Sustainable Fashion

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2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Sustainable Fashion What’s Next? A Conversation about Issues, Practices and Possibilities Janet Hethorn and Connie Ulasewicz

“A call to action for the fashion industry and all citizens who engage it—all of us who design, make, buy, wear and dispose of garments…an important, inspiring guidepost for fashion in practice.” William McDonough, founder of the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute and author of Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things Written as a collection of 15 original essays, this new edition combines expert contributors’ perspectives on past, present and future practices in the fashion industry

UK September 2015 US July 2015 448 pages 115 bw illus 229 x 152mm / 9 x 6 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395383 £56.00 / $85.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395147 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide available Janet Hethorn is Professor of Art and Design and Dean, College of Communication and Fine Arts, Central Michigan University, USA. Connie Ulasewicz is Professor at San Francisco State University, USA.

New to this edition • Enhanced focus on issues and practices of concern within design and product development processes • New sidebars, Ideas in Action, focus on an expansion of real world applications and include interviews, case studies and profiles of professionals • Best Practices at the end of each section feature new examples of contemporary industry practices including The Filippa K. Story, Sri Lanka: A Model of Sustainable Apparel Industry Initiatives, and Peg and Awl: To make things out of nothing • End-of-chapter discussion questions raise important issues and implications for future development • New chapters 4, 5, 10, 12 and 15 discuss topics such as social media, social responsibility, technology, cradle to cradle design and design challenges • Sustainable Fashion STUDIO includes self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips and videos that bring chapter topics and concepts to life

Key Titles www/Textbook

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A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion Alison Gwilt

“A well structured resource for teaching which demonstrates a breadth of approaches to sustainability.” Jade Whitson-Smith, University of Huddersfield, UK Packed with full-colour images from contributors such as Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney, Edun and People Tree, this is a much-needed handbook for students and professionals in the fashion and textile industries. It includes guidance on how to map and assess the life cycle of a garment, case studies of best practice and interviews with a selection of industry professionals, including Annika Matilda Wendelboe, Susan Dimasi (Materialbyproduct) and Isabell de Hillerin.

2014 176 pages 200 colour illus 230 x 160mm / 9.1 x 6.3 inches PB 9782940496143 £23.99 / $44.95 Series: Basics Fashion Design Fairchild Books

• Online resources include a list of organisations and designers featured in the kit • Teaching Resources: PowerPoint available

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Fashion Forecasting

4th Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Fashion Forecasting Evelyn L. Brannon and Lorynn Divita

By combining fashion theory with the most up to date current practices from industry executives, Fashion Forecasting explains how to recognize emerging trends and the ‘coolhunters’ who lead the way. • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and PowerPoint presentation available Evelyn L. Brannon is Professor Emerita at Auburn University, USA.

www / Textbook UK November 2015 US September 2015 496 pages 150 colour illus 254 x 203mm / 10 x 8 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501313172 £70.00 / $110.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501313165 Fairchild Books

Lorynn Divita is an Associate Professor of Apparel Merchandising at Baylor University, USA. Features • Includes 150 color photographs showing current examples • Industry Profiles illustrate the types of job opportunities that exist for students and ground theoretical concepts in real-world application

As a fashion designer, I think I play a role in reflecting society rather than in

• End-of-chapter summaries, activities, and discussion questions engage students in creative application of concepts

changing society. –Giorgio Armani

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New to this edition

THE FASHION FORECASTING PROCESS

• New Chapter 5, “Popular Culture and Forecasting”, connects the influence of television, music, movies and social media to the rise of trends

TRENDFORECASTERS—WHO, WHAT, WHERE, WHEN, WHY, AND HOW OBJECTIVES

• Thoroughly updated Chapter 4, now entitled “Modern Forecasting Methods,” features current forecasters such as Trend Tablet, Perclers Paris, and Nelly Rodi Lab

Establish the multifaceted character of fashion

Analyze the trajectory of fashion change

Identify the concept of Zeitgeist, or spirit of the times, as a framework for understanding and interpreting fashion change

Comprehend the breadth and depth of the forecasting process

Define the role of forecasting in the textile and apparel industries

• New “You Be The Forecaster” feature allows students to apply the skills in each chapter in scenarios that simulate real-world career situations • Fashion Forecasting STUDIO includes self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips, flashcards of essential vocabulary, and videos that bring chapter concepts to life

Contents Preface 1. The Fashion Forecasting Process Part One: Forecasting Frameworks 2. Introducing Innovation 3. The Direction of Fashion Change 4. Modern Forecasting Methods Part Two: Fashion Dynamics 5. Popular Culture and Forecasting 6. Color Forecasting 7. Textile Forecasting 8. The Look: Design Concepts and Style Directions

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Part Three: Marketplace Dynamics 9. Consumer Research 10. Sales Forecasting Part Four: Forecasting at Work 11. Competitive Analysis 12. Presenting the Forecast Glossary Bibliography Credits Index

fact that in 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent... wasn’t it who showed cerulean military jackets? I think we need a jacket here. And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. And then it, uh, filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin. However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and it’s sort of comical how you think that you’ve made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you’re wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room from a pile of stuff.’ Actress Meryl Streep as fashion editor Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada

‘This... stuff’? Oh. Okay. I see. You think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select... I don’t know... that lumpy blue sweater, for instance because you’re trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back. But what you don’t know is that that sweater is not just blue, it’s not turquoise. It’s not lapis. It’s actually cerulean. And you’re also blithely unaware of the

Trend forecasters locate the source of trends and use their skill and knowledge to identify emerging concepts. Forecasters’ observations are shared with product developers, marketers, and the press, setting off the chain reaction that is fashion. The result is a continuous flow of products with new styling, novel decoration, and innovative uses. Saks Fifth Avenue Fashion Director Jaqui Lividini uses the services of forecasters combined with her own staff’s predictions to anticipate her shoppers’ preferences. “You want to have what she wants before she knows she wants it. If you’re behind her, you’ve lost her. If you’re in step, she’s not excited. We try to be one step ahead. If you’re two steps ahead, she’s not interested in it”(Blair, 2013). Trend forecasters work in many kinds of firms—for designers, advertising agencies, fiber producers, trade organizations, retail chains, and apparel brands. These professionals have job titles that range from manager of trend

CHAPTER

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Figure 1.1 Finding trends means looking beyond the best-known fashion capitals. Sydney hosts Australian Fashion Week.

Figure 1.2 Forecasters use the language of fashion— color, pattern, texture, and photographs—to communicate a forecast to clients.

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Figure 1.6 Figure 1.4 Cate Blanchett’s appearance at the Cannes Film Festival in an organza gown tells a color story (salmon), a styling story (pleats and ruffles), and an accessory story with a romantic mood—all with potential for trendsetting.

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CHAPTER

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When young fashionforward consumers wanted access to runway trends faster than traditional stores could react, Zara pioneered production and distribution methods that made it possible to satisfy that demand—an example of a co-evolving marketplace.

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Branding

www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Brand Management Strategies Luxury and Mass Markets William D’Arienzo

www/Textbook This book offers an applied and practical approach to classic themes in brand management with updated brand case studies, fashion and non-fashion examples and interactive brand development exercises. Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide, Test Bank, and PowerPoint presentations. William D’Arienzo is founder of and currently facilitates the Brand Management Experience program at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), USA, and is an adjunct Assistant Professor at Rider University, College of Business, USA

Included in the Brand Management Strategies STUDIO • Student self-quizzes with results and personalized study tips • Flashcards with definitions and image identification • Interactive Brand Lab worksheets and exercises, to help students master concepts and improve grades.

Contents Preface 1. Introduction 2. The Evolution of Brand Development and Luxury Brands 3. Segmentation Modeling: Aligning Brands with Types of Customers 4. Developing Brand Loyalty through Consumer Marketing Touch Points 5. Marketing Myopia and Consumer-Centric Marketing 6. The Concept and Management of the Brand Promise 7. What Makes a Brand Valuable? 8. Strategies for Creating Brand Names and Protecting Trademarks 9. The Brand as North Star: How Successful Retailers Stay “On-Brand” and “OnCourse”

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10. Revitalizing and RePositioning Brands and The Role of Brand Audits 11. Brand Satisfaction Metrics: Measuring Brand Engagement 12. Brand Management Strategies in a Digital World 13. Managing the Luxury Brand Experience in a Digital World 14. The Impact of Global Communications on Brand Management 15. The Challenge of Neuropsychology for Brand Management Conclusion Bibliography Glossary Index

UK May 2016 US March 2016 320 pages 100 bw illus 254 x 203mm / 10 x 8 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501318436 £60.00 / $90.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501318412 Fairchild Books


Branding

2nd Edition

Brand/Story Cases and Explorations in Fashion Branding Joseph H. Hancock, II

www/Textbook Brand/Story examines how a retailer, manufacturer, or designer label uses storytelling to grab a consumer’s interest. Using 10 case studies on such notable brands as Levis and Vivienne Westwood, it looks at what a fashion brand is about and why companies advertise the way they do.

UK May 2016 US March 2016 240 pages 90 colour illus 229 x 152mm / 9 x 6 inches PB 9781501300028 £60.00 / $90.00 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide, Test Bank, PowerPoint presentations, and a sample student presentation available. Joseph H. Hancock, II is an Associate Professor at Drexel University, USA, in the Department of Design. New to this edition • Features 7 new brands including Lululemon, Warby Parker, MAC Cosmetics and Topshop/Topman • Over 40 new color images including advertisements for Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang, and Dolce & Gabbana • Updated interviews with industry professionals including Nancy Mair, General Merchandise Manager, Burlington Stores and Jill Walker-Roberts, President of Walker-Roberts Consulting • New Go Outside! exercises provide readers with scenarios in which they can apply what they learn to other brands they encounter • Covers hot topics such as sustainability, social responsibility, fast fashion and social media’s influence on fashion brands Contents Preface 1. Introduction: The Story Begins 2. Thinking Critically: A History and Conceptual Examination of Fashion Branding 3. The King of Lifestyle Merchandising: Ralph Lauren 4. Fantastically Sexy! Dolce & Gabbana 5. The Empress of Fashion: Vera Wang 6. Rebel Yell: Dame Vivienne Westwood 7. All Races All Sexes All Genders: M.A.C. Cosmetics

8. The Retro-Branding of American Heritage: Levis Strauss & Co. 9. Eyes Beyond the Brand: Warby Parker 10. Quality – Just in the Nick of Time: Shinola 11. Bending Over Backwards: Lululemon Athletica 12. Co-Branding Fashion for the Masses: Topshop/Topman 13. Conclusion: Fashioning Future Brands Index

160 /

Chapter eleven / Bending Over BaCkwards: lululemon athletica

the Brand strategy: experienCes and retail stOres

offers free yoga classes to employees and customers. The company even features live yoga models for events such as a store opening, exemplifying the experiential nature of the brand and enticing a passerby to perhaps come into the store (Figure 11.1). By using yoga as its sport of choice, the company can easily facilitate enough space in the store to demonstrate the sport and at the same time educate those who are unfamiliar with yoga. A person who actually sees someone doing yoga might be encouraged to think, “Hey, I can do that!” and perhaps participate in yoga, when he or she might not have done that in the past. This approach also encourages customers to feel that they might need to buy yoga clothes, and where better than the very location on which they are situated? Lululemon gets consumers motivated about doing yoga and then sells them the proper attire to do it. Since yoga is done barefoot, the company has no need for selling shoes and therefore can outfit the entire lifestyle of a yogi from head to toe, including the matt, bag, and water bottles. How clever is that? Lululemon Athletica also builds brand loyalty through its ambassador program. The company uses this program much as other sportswear and equipment companies use star-athlete endorsements.

However, this 1,500- strong “ambassador” program extends to unique individuals in store communities deemed appropriate by the company, including world-class athletes such as twenty-five Olympic athletes. Athletes such as cyclist Ryan Leech are part of the Elite Ambassadors campaign and are part of an online forum through which the ambassadors can network with each other through the Lululemon blog. Feedback on products is sent back to headquarters and the design team in Vancouver. The company utilizes various types of social media, such as its blog, to reinforce the brand lifestyle. It also has in-store community boards where customers can post information about yoga and sporting events appropriate to the company’s lifestyle. The retail store is very important to this company, and it has spared no expense. Each Lululemon store is merchandised to the highest standards, with men’s and women’s apparel, as well as accessories, clearly demarcated (Figure 11.2). The store also displays body forms for visual appeal. With this strategy, Lululemon does more than just sell yoga apparel; it has been transformed into a community-minded, ecofriendly business that sells a complete lifestyle to its consumers.

FiguRe 11.2 Lululemon Athletica merchandises with the highest standards and uses body forms to provide visual display and to show products.

FiguRe 11.1 Live yoga model in the front store windows at Lululemon attracts passersby to come into the store—a great example of experiential retailing.

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Fashion Merchandising and Promotion www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Fashion Promotion in Practice Jon Cope and Dennis Maloney

Textbook Fashion Promotion in Practice both instructs and inspires readers by examining and analyzing contemporary promotional practice within the fashion industry and illustrating how readers may apply relevant thinking to their own brands and campaigns. The title explores contemporary issues of fashion promotion, including fashion film, the democratization of the catwalk and celebrity endorsement.

UK January 2016 US March 2016 208 pages 200 colour illus 270 x 210mm / 10.6 x 8.3 inches PB 9781472568922 £37.99 / $64.95 Series: Required Reading Range Fairchild Books

Jon Cope is a Senior Lecturer in Public Relations on the BA (Hons) Fashion Promotion course at University for the Creative Arts, London, UK. Dennis Maloney is a Senior Lecturer across all aspects of the BA (Hons) Fashion Promotion course at the University for the Creative Arts, London, UK.

Contents 1. Campaign Planning: Making it Happen Introduction Putting the P’s into Practice Planning for Promotion Case study - The Power of Not Planning: NonCelebrities go Viral Interview - Rebecca Grant, Cohn and Wolfe: Planning Fashion Promotion for NonFashion Brands Interview - Cotton Incorporated: Planning to Promote Chapter Review 2. Advertising and Public Relations: From Verbal to Viral Introduction The Development of Integrated Fashion Advertising and PR Interview - Oliviero Toscani: Fashion Advertising’s Original Bad Boy

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Case Study - Calvin Klein: ‘Show Yours. #My Calvin’s’ Campaign Types of Fashion PR Activity Advertising and Media Types Paid, Owned, Earned and Social Media How to Write a Press Release Going Native: The Future of Fashion Advertising and PR Interview: Adam Drawas on the New Face of Fashion PR Chapter Review 3. The Celebrity Role: From Royalty to the Rap Game Introduction The Origins of Celebrity in Fashion Why Use Celebrities? Does Celebrity Promotion Work?

Choosing and Using Your Celebrity Industry Perspective - The Future of Celebrity in Fashion Promotion Industry Perspective Working With Celebrities Celebrities Behaving Badly Chapter Review 4. Collaborations: ‘X’ Marks the Spot Introduction Why Collaborate? Categorizing Fashion Collaborations Promoting Collaborations Industry Perspective: Collaborating with Bloggers Charities Collaborating with Fashion: Environmental Justice Foundation ‘Just For’ Environmental T-Shirt Collaboration Chapter Review

5. The Fashion Show: From Couturier to Catwalk Introduction The Fashion Week The Changing Shape of the Catwalk The Production On and Off the Catwalk Catwalk as a Promotional Vehicle: The Communication The End of the Clique The Future of the Catwalk Interview - Fiona Farnsworth, The Catwalk PR Chapter Review 6. Fashion Film: From Hollywood to Hoxton Introduction The Contemporary Fashion Film Creative Film and Narrative Industry Perspective Kathryn Ferguson: A Fashion Filmmaker’s Perspective

Fashion Film as a Promotional Vehicle Interview - Diane Pernet, The Future of Fashion Film: Industry Perspective Interview - Georgia Hardinge and Josie Roscopp Interview - Diane Pernet: International Film Festivals Chapter Review

7. Events from Private Parties to Public Performances Introduction Events and their Audiences Public Events Q&A: Andrea Leonardi, Event Producer, Without Production Experiential Events Interview - Katie Baron Chapter Review


Fashion Merchandising and Promotion 3rd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Promotion in the Merchandising Environment

This fully updated edition broadly covers all categories of promotion with an emphasis on creativity, the promotion mix and the rise of digital media in the fashion industry.

Kristen K. Swanson and Judith C. Everett

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide, Test Bank and PowerPoint presentations available.

www / Textbook UK November 2015 US September 2015 464 pages 197 colour illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches PB 9781628921571 £74.00 / $125.00 Fairchild Books

Kristen K. Swanson is a Professor of Merchandising in the School of Communication at Northern Arizona University, USA. Judith C. Everett is Emeritus Professor of Merchandising in the School of Communication at Northern Arizona University, USA.

New to this edition

• Updated chapter opening vignettes relate the content of each chapter to the industry

chapter 1

• Now in full color with 60% new photographs, advertisements, charts and graphs INTRODUCTION TO PROMOTION

• New Chapter 3 “The Creative Process in Promotion” explains how the elements and principles of design are used in promotional activities and illuminates the creative relationship between retailers and advertising agencies

“One of my most passionate aims is to ensure that we, as a company, use clothes to bring a little joy and happiness to people around the world.” Tadashi Yanai, Uniqlo chairman, president, and CEO. —Ta da sh i Ya n a i

• New Chapter 8 “New Media” covers interactive retailing, e-commerce, and social media, such as Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and Pinterest

AFTER READING THIS CHAPTER, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO: Discuss the importance of promotion to fashion brands and retailers.

Identify trends affecting promotion in the 21st century.

Recognize the differences between marketing, branding, communication, and promotion.

• Emphasizes the concept of integrated marketing communications (IMC), the effects of consumers’ changing attitudes and how changes in technologies and distribution channels are driving communication and fashion promotion today

Discuss the elements of the marketing mix.

Explain the communication model.

Understand the elements of the promotion mix.

Discuss integrated marketing communications.

U

niqlo (YOU-nee-klo) is a Japanese casual wear designer, manufacturer, and retailer that operates globally in nearly 20 countries including Australia, China, France, Germany, Russia, the United Kingdom, and the United States. Uniqlo’s tagline, “Made for All,” reflects its universal attitude toward its global product line: to sell the same things to everyone. According to its website, “UNIQLO makes clothes that transcend all categories and social groups. Our clothes are made for all, going beyond age, gender, occupation, ethnicity, and all other ways that define people. Our clothes

• Includes new end-of-chapter checklists for easy review of content and a new term-long advertising brand campaign assignment • Coverage has been streamlined to 14 concise chapters

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Contents Preface Acknowledgements Part I. Introduction to Promotion 1. What is Promotion? 2. Consumer Behavior 3. The Creative Process in Promotion 4. Fashion Forecasting Part II. Promotion Preparation 5. Promotion Organization 6. Promotion Planning and Budgeting

Part III. Media 7. Traditional Media 8. Digital Media Part IV. Promotion Mix 9. Advertising 10. Direct Marketing and Sales Promotion 11. Public Relations 12. Personal Selling 13. Fashion Shows and Special Events 14. Visual Merchandising Glossary Index

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Fashion Merchandising and Promotion 8th Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Mathematics for Retail Buying

This thoroughly updated edition of Mathematics for Retail Buying includes realistic examples, worked-out problems and clear explanations that are relevant to a retail buyer’s job today.

Bette K. Tepper and Marla Greene

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Answer Manuals and a Test Bank [still true for new edition?] Bette K. Tepper is a former faculty member of the Fashion Management Department at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), USA.

www/Textbook UK May 2016 US March 2016 50 bw illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501315725 £80.00 / $120.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395079 Fairchild Books

Marla Greene is Clinical Associate Professor of Fashion Merchandising at LIM College, NYC, USA New to this edition • Reorganized Units I and VI reflect the order of prior editions and open the textbook with the discussion of “merchandising for profit” and profit and loss concepts • Updates problems in all units and case studies for currency and relevancy to the industry today, including at least 25% new practice problems and 50% new case studies • Expanded chapter on “Dollar Planning and Control” to include more on sales planning and comprehensive coverage of the six month planning process and assortment planning

Mathematics for Retail Buying, 7th edition is also now available with STUDIO Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395314 £80.00 / $120.00 STUDIO Access Card

9781501395079

• Explains how retailers do this in today’s world, not only for brick and mortar but for omni-channel, including a sampling of problems from all retail sectors should be included • Includes criteria necessary for determining when to take markdowns in that chapter • Updated Mathematics for Retail Buying STUDIO includes chapter quizzes, formula flashcards, new case studies and solution sheets, spreadsheets for Excel-based Practice Problems, plus new “Basic Introduction to Math and Excel” and “How to Use Computerized Spreadsheets” tutorials

Key Titles Revised First Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

A Practical Approach to Merchandising Mathematics

This peer-reviewed new edition is dedicated to helping students master the mathematical concepts, techniques and analysis utilized in the merchandise buying and planning process.

Linda M. Cushman Included in A Practical Approach to Merchandising Mathematics STUDIO • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips • Flashcards of terms and definitions • Downloadable spreadsheets and tables illustrating operational results, inventory and merchandise plans • Review exercises covering key text concepts • Full access to the content previously contained on the CD packaged with this book

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www/Textbook 2011 320 pages 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395406 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395161 £55.00 / $105.00 Fairchild Books


Fashion Merchandising and Promotion 3rd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Going Global The Textile and Apparel Industry Grace I. Kunz, Elena Karpova and Myrna B. Garner

“I think this is the best textbook that I have seen on the subject matter. It provides great information on sourcing options and considerations in making sourcing decisions.” Louise Wallace, Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, USA Going Global provides textiles and apparel students with updated information on today’s complex global supply chain and sourcing systems and how current political, social and economic developments influence the international marketplace.

www/Textbook UK April 2016 US February 2016 400 pages 120 bw illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501318344 £66.00 / $100.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501318320 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide, Test Bank, and PowerPoint presentations available. Grace I. Kunz is an Associate Professor Emerita from the Department of Apparel, Events, and Hospitality Management at Iowa State University, USA. Elena Karpova is an Associate Professor in the Department of Apparel, Events, and Hospitality management at Iowa State University, USA. Myrna B. Garner is Professor Emeritus at Illinois State University, USA. New to this edition • Increased coverage of sourcing and expanded discussion of Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) software and technology • Updated and new case studies in every chapter with added assessment questions to improve critical thinking skills • Updated data in Part 3 for each country discussed, including current info on politics and economic development, trade agreements and statistics, plus sourcing and sustainability issues in each region and a new table to show major countries in each region along with their specialties Included in Going Global STUDIO • Online self-quizzes with scored results and personalized study tips • Flashcards with terms/definitions and image identification • Chapter videos with critical thinking questions to help students master concepts and improve grades.

Key Titles 2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Essentials of Exporting and Importing U.S. Trade Policies, Procedures, and Practices

A practical, basic guide for importing and exporting products, services, or technology, while maintaining compliance with government policies. Calling upon the expertise of industry professionals and government officials, the authors focus on the policies, procedures, and practices essential for success in international trade.

www/Textbook 2014 352 pages 126 bw illus 229 x 152mm / 9 x 6 inches PB 9781609018894 £64.00 / $105.00 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and PowerPoint presentations available

Harvey R. Shoemack and Patricia Mink Rath

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Fashion Merchandising and Promotion

Key Titles

www/Textbook

2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Merchandise Planning Workbook Rosetta LaFleur

Focusing on the development of a 6-month merchandise plan, this text explains how to use Excel as a tool to project sales, manage inventory, calculate the amount of merchandise to purchase, and adjust the price throughout the selling season. • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide available

Included in Merchandise Planning Workbook STUDIO: • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips

2010 208 pages 100 2-colour illus 235 x 187mm / 9.25 x 7.37 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395567 STUDIO Access Card £40.00 / $75.00 Fairchild Books

• A 6-month merchandise budget form for a basic product • Review concepts with evaluation form assignments covering various textbook topics

4th Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Perry’s Department Store: A Buying Simulation Karen M. Videtic and Cynthia W. Steele

“The buying simulation is the main reason why I adopted this book.” Dong Shen, California State University-Sacramento, US With its unique simulation approach, this book takes students step-by-step through a real-life buying experience to learn first-hand how a retail buyer completes a six-month buying plan and merchandise assortment plan. • Buying Simulation STUDIO allows students to follow the text’s steps and calculations with data and statistical information, worksheets, Excel® spreadsheets with embedded formulas and blank worksheets, industry catalogs and private label line sheets, and web links to additional resources to complete the buying simulation

www/Textbook 2015 160 pages 40 bw illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395307 £56.00 / $95.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395307 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide available

3rd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Guide to Producing a Fashion Show Judith C. Everett and Kristen K. Swanson

The definitive source of information for anyone interested in fashion show production — from an informal affair to a large, complex event. • Chapter features include objectives, key fashion show terms, summary recaps, discussion questions, activities, and capstone projects • Notes from the Runway feature includes insider interviews in each chapter • A 16-page colour insert features real world fashion show and behind the scenes examples • Guide to Producing a Fashion Show STUDIO includes online self-quizzes, flashcards and all blank sheets, forms, and templates needed to plan and execute a fashion show • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and PowerPoint presentations available

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www/Textbook 2013 320 pages 133 2-colour illus 216 x 279mm / 8.5 x 11 inches Book + STUDIO Bundle 9781501395321 £55.00 / $95.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395086 Fairchild Books


Fashion Merchandising and Promotion

Key Titles

5th Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Retail Buying From Basics to Fashion Richard Clodfelter

“Probably one of the best text books I have ever used.” Carol Lazich, George Brown College, Canada This comprehensive book provides students with the skills and savvy needed to become successful buyers in any area of retail. With a simple and straightforward approach, Clodfelter presents step-by-step instructions for typical buying tasks, such as identifying and understanding potential customers, creating a six-month merchandising plan, and developing sales forecasts.

www/Textbook 2015 576 pages 95 bw illus 235 x 187mm / 9.25 x 7.37 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395260 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395024 £64.00 / $95.00 Fairchild Books

• Retail Buying STUDIO features online selfquizzes, flashcards, math practice problems and Excel spreadsheet activities that align with chapter “Spreadsheet Skills” activities • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide, Test Bank and PowerPoint presentations available

3rd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Fashion Retailing A Multi-Channel Approach Jay Diamond, Ellen Diamond and Sheri Diamond Litt

“Informative, interesting to read, gives current statistics, has good, thorough content on the subject, and offers good questions at the end of [each] chapter. This definitely brings retail concepts to the 21st century and makes the book more relevant to students today.” Diane Ellis, Meredith College, USA

www/Textbook 2015 408 pages 100 bw illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches PB 9781609019006 £66.00 / $110.00 Fairchild Books

In this fully updated overview of fashion retailing, the authors focus on the globalization of the retail industry with an emphasis on US retail expansion into foreign markets as well as global brands proposed expansion to the US market. • Teaching Resources: Instructors Guide with Test Bank and PowerPoint presentations available

2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

The Why of the Buy Consumer Behavior and Fashion Marketing Patricia Mink Rath, Stefani Bay, Richard Petrizzi and Penny Gill

“. . . if you LOVE fashion, you want a fashion focus, which is the strength of Fairchild Books. If you require a Fairchild Books textbook, you know you have a fashion focus.” Deborah Fowler, Texas Tech University, USA This second edition addresses how psychology, sociology, and culture all influence the how, what, when, where, and why of the buy. The unifying element of this text is its presentation of current knowledge of consumer behavior applied to the fields of fashion and design in an enthusiastic and relevant way that will attract and engage students.

www/Textbook 2014 480 pages 180 colour illus 254 x 203mm / 10 x 8 inches PB 9781609018986 £64.99 / $115.00 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide with Test Bank and PowerPoint presentations available

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Fashion Design

Textbook

2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Developing a Fashion Collection Elinor Renfrew and Colin Renfrew

“In the professional world, knowledge of the industry you work in is paramount for success. You need to know every name in this book.” Todd Lynn, Fashion Designer Fully updated with new interviews and inspiring images, the 2nd edition of Developing a Fashion Collection covers everything the fashion student needs to know before designing their own collections.

UK January 2016 US March 2016 184 pages 200 colour illus 230 x 160mm / 9 x 6.3 inches PB 9782940496730 £23.99 / $41.95 Series: Basics Fashion Design, Required Reading Range Fairchild Books

Elinor Renfrew is Associate Head of the Design School and Director for Fashion at Kingston University, UK. Colin Renfrew is Pro Vice Chancellor Dean at Manchester Metropolitan University, UK.

Features • 30 interviews with leading contemporary fashion designers, including Sister by Sibling, Holly Fulton, Todd Lynn, thefuturelaboratory, People Tree, Leutton Postle and Insley & Nash • Updated with 200 illustrations • Includes an overview of the development process; the common themes used by designers, different market levels, and specialist collections and approaches to designing the student collection Contents Introduction 1. What is a collection? How to start a collection Market research Inspiration Development Fabric sourcing Forecasting trends Archiving Editing collections The team Showing the collections Interviews: Martin Raymond Shelley Fox Holly Fulton Todd Lynn Richard Nicoll Felipe Rojas Llanos

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2. Collections and their influences Background Historical Cultural Conceptual Functional Political Futuristic Artistic Interviews: Fiona Stuart Louis Amendola Dr Noki Katie Greenyer Sophie Hulme Kenneth Mackenzie Will Broome 3. Designing for different markets Haute couture Ready to wear Designer labels Luxury brands Designer collaborations High street

Developing high street collections On-line shopping Interviews: Giles Deacon Sibling Colin McNair Gordon Richardson John Mooney 4. Specialist collections Childrenswear Knitwear Active sportswear Corporate wear Footwear Bags and accessories Interviews: Eva Karayiannis (Caramel) Jenny Leutton (Leutton Postle) Charli Cohen Tracy Mulligan Nicholas Kirkwood Oliver Ruuger

5. The student collection The brief Your portfolio Research and development Presentation Conclusion Glossary Featured designers Shops and markets Suppliers Fashion weeks, trade shows and fabric fairs Fashion journals, museums and blogs Acknowledgements and picture credits


Grade Guide

104

Interview

GILES DEACON ,

Fashion Designer

How do you start your collections?

How many are in your team?

We start the next collection before we finish the one we are working on. For example, the Autumn/Winter 2009 research started three weeks before the Spring/Summer 2009 show. We need to keep up the pace in the studio, as certain staff are on a monthly salary, so we are producing all the time and do pre-collections as well. When researching for the new collection, I use stuff that has been collected all year round, and I work in sketchbooks.

There are nine full-time, four part-time, and a number of students.

Designing for different markets

How do you develop new shapes? Patterns that haven’t worked in the past are reworked. Cutters work on new shapes from inspirational mood boards; finishes may come from any surplus garments for new fabrics. I also set mini projects for assistants and students who will go around the shops looking at how garments, such as those at Prada and Lanvin, are made. The interpretations of new styles need to look like they come from Giles.

How many collections do you design? There are eight in total: two main collections, Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter for Giles; two pre-collections for July and November; and four collections a year for New Look.

How do you compile a color palette? I do it instinctively, starting with core black and navy and adding a few new colors for trims. Choosing a color is not a major problem.

The second difference in grading systems is how the total grade is distributed within the width and length of the pattern. Figure 2.2 presents a comparison among the authors’ grading system and systems used by Price and Zamkoff (1996) and Handford (2003). The differences are most apparent in the extreme sizes, because the changes are cumulative across the size range. It should be noted that Price and Zamkoff are authors from New York, and many firms use this grade distribution. Handford was from the west coast of the United States, and many west coast firms follow his grade distributions.

Grade Guide The bust, waist, and hip are the three primary body girth measurements applied to pattern grading. Generally, the amount of total body girth change is the same for the bust, the waist, and the hip. This difference designates the amount of grade for the garment and is referred to as a uniform grade. If the change in all three body areas is 1 inch, then the pattern has a 1-inch grade. A mixed grade occurs if the change in one of the three body areas, such as the waist, is different than in the others. In a mixed grade, each area is designated as having its own grade (i.e., bust: a 2-inch grade; waist: a 1 1/2-inch grade;

Using the bodice as an example, the width grade is distributed within the neck, the shoulder, and the underarm areas. The length grade is distributed in the 1/8

1/8

1/16 1/16

0

Where do you source your fabrics?

1/8

Japan and the UK, France for denim, lace from Austria, and I develop crêpe fabrics in UK mills who will produce thirty meters specifically for us.

3/16

Bodice Front

1/8

1/8

1/8 3/16

Bodice Front

3/16

1/16

1/8

1/8

1/8

3/16

1/16

1/8 1/8

1/8 1/8 1/8

1/8

Authors’ Simplified System from PS 42-70 Grade Guide

1/8

1/16

1/16

1/8

1/8

How do you develop your prints and knitwear? I have a long working relationship with designers Fleet and Rory, who interpret the feel of the collection or prints. Ideas develop in conjunction with the print designers. Rory works through drawings, and Fleet works texturally. Syd will work large-scale knitwear showpieces, and fine-gauge knitwear samples are made in Italy. We also use Swarovski crystals on embroideries and prints.

neck, the armscye, and the underarm to waist areas. Different systems may specify varying amounts of the total width or length grades in each of these areas, which in turn affects how the garment fits in each of these areas. The effects of the differences in the sizes where the grade changes and how the grade is distributed within each size are most apparent in the fit of extreme sizes in a size range.

change from a 1-inch to a 1 1/2-inch grade varied from between sizes 6 and 8 to between sizes 16 and 18, with the greatest number of changes occurring between sizes 12 and 14 (Staples, 1994). The same variation was found in the sizes where the grade changed to a 2-inch grade.

1/8

Price and Zamkoff

1/8

Bodice Front

1/8

1/8

1/8

1/8

1/8

Handford

Figure 2.2 Comparison of 1 1/2-inch Grading Systems

11

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164

CONCLUSION This book has taken you on a journey through the various processes and expectations when trying to develop a collection. Starting with the key processes involved in researching, designing, and producing a collection, this book will also help you understand how the different roles within a team come together to develop a collection, be it for a main collection or a specialist collection, such as knitwear, childrenswear, or accessories. Mainly focusing on womenswear and menswear, designers’ influences are identified into social categories, including historical, cultural, functional political, artistic, and futuristic.

The student collection

The main text is supported by contemporary interviews with a diverse cross section of global designers working in the fashion industry, which we hope will inspire you to realize your aspirations as the next generation of designers.

26 Stunning menswear from the E.Tautz Fall/Winter 2014 collection, featuring hand embroidery by undergraduate degree students from the Royal School of Needlework, UK.

26


Fashion Design

Key Titles

www/Textbook

2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

This guide equips students with everything they need to know about measuring sample garments, creating fully graded spec sheets, and fitting garments for production. Over 450 technical flats are clearly labeled with measurement points and instructions for taking measurements. This book is also ideal for industry professionals working without a comprehensive spec manual.

2009 400 pages Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395437 £65.00 / $120.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395192 Fairchild Books

Included in Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design STUDIO • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips • Flashcards of terms and definitions • Images of croquis for a wide variety of clothing types • Blank spec sheets and flats for knits, woven items, blazers, jackets, outerwear, and menswear • Full access to the content previously contained on the CD packaged with this book

www/Textbook

www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Functional Clothing Design From Sportswear to Spacesuits

“An excellent resource… The revision follows the logic and rationale of the original.” Karen L. LaBat, University of Minnesota, USA

Susan M. Watkins and Lucy E. Dunne

Functional Clothing Design comprehensively explores how wearable products are designed and created for a specific purpose using the latest technological innovations. This cutting-edge text is ideal for fashion design students interested in learning about wearable technology, smart textiles, sportswear and activewear design and designing for specialized markets.

“Essential reading…this text is indeed a bible.” Sandra Tullio-Pow, Ryerson University, Canada

2015 448 pages 365 bw illus 254 x 203mm / 10 x 8 inches HB 9780857854674 £56.00 / $95.00 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide available

www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Designing An Introduction Karl Aspelund

www/Textbook A current and comprehensive introduction to design fundamentals including 2D and 3D design concepts. • Illustrated with numerous images from a variety of fields: industrial, apparel, interior, automotive, landscape, Web, graphic, fine arts, artisanal, and more. • Sidebars and end-boxes place focus on topics, such as networking, ergonomics, timelines, and sustainability • Chapter summary, lists of objectives and key terms, exercises, assignments, and questions for classroom discussion • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and PowerPoint presentation available

28

2014 296 pages 250 colour illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches PB 9781609014964 £74.99 / $130.00 Fairchild Books


Key Titles

Fashion Design

2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Textiles and Fashion Exploring Printed Textiles, Knitwear, Embroidery, Menswear and Womenswear

Textiles and Fashion examines the process of creating and using fashion textiles and discusses the processes involved in fibre production, dyeing and finishing, and explores weaving and knitting. Jenny Udale is a lecturer at the University of Middlesex and Ravensbourne College, UK.

Textbook 2014 200 pages 200 colour illus 230 x 160mm / 9.1 x 6.3 inches PB 9782940496006 £23.99 / $44.95 Series: Basics Fashion Design Fairchild Books

Jenny Udale New to this edition • Exercises help students to explore further the world of textiles and fashion • Updated images throughout • Case studies and new interviews ensure readers will gain a clear and practical understanding of the world of textile design www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Basics Fashion Design 07: Menswear John Hopkins

Textbook “A well-crafted collection of everything you need to know about menswear.” Krystyna Kolowska, Nottingham Trent University, UK An introduction to menswear fashion that considers a range of social and historical contexts that have served to define and redefine menswear through the ages. • Highly visual content with a mixture of contemporary and historical photographs, artworks and scanned fabrics

2011 200 pages 200 colour illus 230 x 160mm / 9.1 x 6.3 inches PB 9782940411436 £23.50 / $34.50 Series: Basics Fashion Design Fairchild Books

• Interviews with contemporary and upcoming menswear designers and photographers John Hopkins is head of Fashion and Textiles at Winchester School of Art, UK.

2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Basics Fashion Design 01: Research and Design

Investigates fashion design research and how to use it to develop inspired designs and concepts. Simon Seivewright ran the undergraduate fashion degree program at Northbrook College, UK.

Simon Seivewright

Textbook 2012 192 pages 200 colour illus 230 x 160mm / 9.1 x 6.3 inches PB 9782940411702 £24.99 / $34.50 Series: Basics Fashion Design Fairchild Books

New to this edition • Filled with new, full-length interviews with contemporary designers and creatives including Jenny Packham, Omar Kashoura, Alice Palmer, Julien Macdonald, Richard Sorger and Dr. Noki • Designed to inspire students in their own creative work, Research and Design also features helpful, practical exercises to support readers with their own understanding and creative development • Fully updated and revised, this new edition is full of useful advice about where to go to find inspiration when researching concepts for design work

29


Illustration

www / Textbook

www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

The Fashion Designer’s Sketchbook Inspiration, Design Development and Presentation Sharon Rothman

The Fashion Designer’s Sketchbook explores why fashion journals are today the means through which many fashion students find employment; and explores four distinct types of creative journal through visual storytelling, each representing a different phase in the design process Sharon Rothman is an Adjunct Assistant Professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA.

UK January 2016 US March 2016 216 pages 200 colour illus 270 x 210mm / 10.6 x 8.3 inches PB 9781472567291 £29.99 / $49.95 Series: Required Reading Range Fairchild Books

Features • Companion website includes end-of-chapter videos and video interviews with practicing fashion professionals • Diverse and beautiful range of real sketchbook example • Clearly outlines the key steps of design development, supported by simple instructional text and questions that prompt critical thinking, to enable student readers to get the most out of their sketchbooks Contents 1. Introduction to the Fashion Designer’s Sketchbook Telling your design story Interview: Andora Whitfield Interview: Daniel Roseberry 2. Pre-Design: Your Inspiration Sketchbook Creativity, Originality and Inspiration Your cultural universe Exercise 1: Building a Fabric Archive Putting It All Together; Exercise 2: Your Own Remix Sketching in the Moment; Exercise 3: Research Sketching Transition to Design Exercise 4: Visual Storytelling/ Mind Mapping Interview: Scott Nylund Interview: Renaldo Barnette 3. Market Research: Your Design Direction Your design philosophy Exercise 5: Visualizing Your Design Philosophy Identifying your customer Exercise 6: Your Key Fashion Message Targeting your market Exercise 7: Market and customer analysis 30

Visualizing your design direction Interview: Naama Doktofsky Interview: Daniel Silverstein 4. Design Development: The Process Sketchbook Sketchbook options Sketchbook criteria Design Direction to Plan of Action Exercise 9: Your Design Plan Translating Concept into Design Conveying Theme in Color and Fabric Exercise 10: Conveying Theme in Color and Fabric Design Development: The Main Event Exercise 11: Design Development The Edit: Shaping a Cohesive Collection Exercise 12: Collection Edit Interview: Lauren Sehner Interview: Matthew Harwoodstone 5. Presentation Sketchbook Presentation Sketchbook Considerations Content Edit for Presentation Sketchbook Content Presentation Spatial Dynamics

The Working Sketch Exercise 13: Process Sketch to Working Sketch Sequencing Plan Exercise 14: Presentation Sequencing Plan Interview: Peter Do Interview: Kieran Dallison 6. Innovative/Interactive Sketchbooks The Elements of Invention Designing a Sustainable Future Interview:Sonja Nesse Interview: Sunghee Bang Resources Acknowledgements Picture Credits Index


What Your Sketchbook Does for You

your conceptual associations; your key decisions

Designers at all stages of their careers rely on their

about customer, color, and fabric; and the ongoing

sketchbooks to support them in very individual

development that propels your designs forward

ways and use them to play creatively, evolve design

to final edit. It keeps you motivated, organized

vision, clinch the job, collaborate with a mentor or

in one place, and on track through the weeks of

design team, sell a project for start-up funding, or

experimentation and creative choices.

communicate with artisans and production people half a world away. The sketchbook is a living

This uniquely individual process is how you grow

document, which means that you are continually

your creativity and clarify your design ideas, learning

evolving your design thinking on its pages—

your design story from yourself as you experience

editing, revising, and remixing. Like a roadmap, it

it. As you do, your sketchbook provides the clearest

shows your design journey from first wanderings

snapshot of who you are as a designer and what

to collection destination. It records your moments

you are saying in your work—a spontaneous “selfie”

of inspiration and invention and the emergence of

of how you think design. Take your own best shot.

1-5 Sketchbook starts as an experiment in following wherever your creativity takes you and emerges as a snapshot of your individual design process.

1-4 Alexis Yun Young Chung evolves her unique design point of view.

Eleni Kelly (top pages) Lauren Sehner (center) McQuiston Marié (center right) Quinan Dalton (bottom pages)

1-4

12

1-5

CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION TO THE FASHION DESIGNER’S SKETCHBOOK

TELLING YOUR DESIGN STORY

5-20

5-20 The bold size and color of Taylor Ormond’s hand-painted backgrounds (above) overwhelm her charming designs, even through the translucent layer.

5-21 Taylor’s second project (below) uses one manipulated theme image to support her designs; by placing it lower than her design details, she allows negative space to frame her creativity.

5-21

158

CHAPTER 5 PRESENTATION SKETCHBOOK

13

Backgrounds and Graphics

are easily lost. The activity, intensity, and placement

The simplicity of negative space is the showcase of

of distracting elements can overwhelm them,

choice for creative design. A frame of clear space

confuse silhouette, camouflage fabric swatches,

removes all distractions and allows silhouette

and change the impact of color. On the other hand,

to stand out and originality to shine. decorative

simple, relevant graphics can unify your design

elements, backgrounds, and diverse graphics can

process and support your creative vision. By keeping

have the opposite effect unless used with a light

background drama minimal, you free up negative

touch and practiced eye. In a field of competing

space on the page. Even excellent designs will take

visual messages, your all-important sketch details

on the taste level and aesthetic of their presentation.

5-22 Kate Lee (top right) uses graphic elements with a light touch to suggest and echo her repeating curved-vent motif. In three carefully positioned images, Lauren Sehner (below) explains her concept from abstract idea to design, framing her key directional sketch.

5-22

SPATIAL dYNAMICS

159


Illustration

Key Titles

6th Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Fashion Sketchbook

This bible of fashion sketching demystifies the drawing process with simple, step-by-step directions on how to draw women, men and children.

Bina Abling

• Teaching resources: Instructor’s Guide and PowerPoint presentation available

Included in Fashion Sketchbook STUDIO • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips • Visual flashcards to help students identify the basics of garment details and silhouettes and terms for the shapes, construction, and detailing of garment categories

www/Textbook 2012 496 pages 680 colour illus 305 x 229mm / 12 x 9 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395352 £60.00 / $110.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395116 Fairchild Books

• Videos demonstrating mixed media rendering techniques for figure analysis, fleshtone rendering, rendering garment details, drawing flats, rendering stripes and other prints, and rendering high end fabrics • Each video includes a list of supplies and an explanation of how the demonstrations align with the book chapters • Full access to the content previously contained on the DVD packaged with this book 3rd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Illustrating Fashion Concept to Creation

This text provides a step-by-step approach to drawing the basic fashion figure, identifying the elements of a garment, and discussing the various techniques used to render fashion illustration.

Steven Stipelman

www/Textbook 2010 464 pages illustrations? Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395475 £45.00 / $90.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395239 Fairchild Books

Included in Illustrating Fashion STUDIO • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips • Flashcards of terms and definitions • Close-up videos of the author demonstrating techniques • Full access to the content previously contained on the CD-ROM packaged with this book www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Creative Fashion Illustration How to Develop Your Own Style Stuart McKenzie

Textbook “This book will surely feature in “must have” lists for a long time. Written in a warm, clear style and with exercises broken down into bite size pieces, it enables readers to build skills at their own pace and experiment with each technique. ” Tony Glenville,Creative Director for the School of Media and Communication, London College of Fashion Practical and accessible, Creative Fashion Illustration gives readers the tools and confidence to develop their own unique style. • Step-by-step exercises are simple and effective, encouraging readers to think creatively and develop new approaches • Written by an experienced fashion illustrator and teacher, the book is packed with tips and tricks • Covers all the key elements of illustration and boosts confidence through experimentation

32

2014 112 pages 295 colour illus PB 9780857858290 £14.99 / $25.95 HB 9780857858283 £45.00 / $78.00 Bloomsbury Academic


Product Development

Key Titles

www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Apparel Quality A Guide to Evaluating Sewn Products Janace E. Bubonia

www/Textbook This guide to evaluating apparel quality presents the roles of product designers, manufacturers, merchandisers, testing laboratories, and retailers from product inception through the sale of goods, to ensure quality products that meet customer expectations. • Covers both US and international standards and regulations • Case studies highlight real world situations such as the Lululemon recall and the environmental impact of apparel manufacturing

UK November 2014 US September 2014 480 pages 365 colour illus 216 x 279mm / 8.5 x 11 inches Book + STUDIO Bundle 9781501395338 £74.00 / $120.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395093 Fairchild Books

• Provides an illustrated guide to ASTM stitch and seam types plus photos of their uses in actual garments • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide with Test Bank and PowerPoint presentations available Janace E. Bubonia is an Associate Professor and Chair at Texas Christian University, USA.

Included in Apparel Quality STUDIO

Most commonly used ASTM & ISO 300 Class lock stitches for apparel

300 Class lockstitches

figure 6.10 Hand stitch machine © Juki juki.com

• Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips

commonly used ASTM and ISO 200 Class stitches in apparel. This stitch classification utilizes hand-stitch machines (see Figure 6.10).

• Flashcards of terms and definitions and image identification

The 300 lockstitches classification is the most widely used for assembly of apparel products. Lockstitches are selected for securing buttons, forming buttonholes and bar tacks, main seaming and hemming of garments, attaching elastic and trims, embroidery, and top stitching. It is important to note that this stitch class, while strong and secure, does not offer stretch or extendibility. The 300 Class of lockstitches are formed with a bobbin thread and one or more needle threads that pass through the fabric and interlace together to secure each stitch. This stitch class offers straight stitching and zigzag patterns, as well as blind hem stitch formations that offer greater security than 100 Class stitches.7,8 See Figure 6.11 for the most commonly used ASTM and ISO 300 Class lock stitches in apparel. This stitch classification utilizes lockstitch machines (see Figure 6.12)

(c)

Most commonly used ASTM & ISO 300 Class lock stitches for apparel

Face View as Sewn

(e)

• Watch videos that bring chapter topics and concepts to life • Visual analysis exercises using key images from the text

(d)

(f)

Face View as Sewn

Back View as Sewn

(a)

304 Zigzag lock stitch

Back View as Sewn

(b)

Face View as Sewn

Back View as Sewn

304 Zigzag lock stitch

figure 6.11 a–b (a) ASTM 301 Lock stitch; (b) ASTM 301, ISO 301 Lock stitches Illustrations of stitch formations from ASTM D 6193. Illustrations of stitches showing face and back views courtesy of Fairchild Books. Photos courtesy of Janace Bubonia. (g)

continued

301 Lock stitch

A S TM

A n d

IS O

S TAn d A R d S

f OR

S TITC HE S

Bubonia_108-141_ch06_new.indd 123

Janace E. Bubonia

7/1/14 11:59 AM

124

(h)

figure 6.11 c–h (c) ASTM 301, ISO 301 Lock stitches face view; (d) ASTM 301, ISO 301 Lock stitches back view; (e) ASTM 304 Zigzag lock stitch; (f) ASTM 304, ISO 304 Zigzag lock stitches; (g) ASTM 304, ISO 304 Zigzag lock stitches face view; (h) ASTM 304, ISO 304 Zigzag lock stitches back view Illustrations of stitch formations from ASTM D 6193. Illustrations of stitches showing face and back views courtesy of Fairchild Books. Photos courtesy of Janace Bubonia.

Bubonia_108-141_ch06_new.indd 124

7/1/14 11:59 AM

Textbook

www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Apparel Quality Lab Manual

123

The student lab manual reinforces the chapter content and lecture material from Apparel Quality with more than 30 hands-on lab activities and projects. Designed for courses that emphasize textile testing or offer a laboratory component, the Apparel Quality Lab Manual includes supply lists, extensive reference tables, assignments for analyzing products, testing and evaluating materials and garments, project sheets for product comparison testing, worksheets to record data, directions for mounting specimens after testing, and templates for cutting specimens.

UK November 2014 US September 2014 184 pages 10 bw illus 216 x 279mm / 8.5 x 11 inches PB 9781628924572 £40.00 / $65.00 Fairchild Books

Contents 1. Apparel Quality and Consumer Perceptions Lab 2. Integrating Quality into the Development of Apparel Products Lab 3. Raw Materials and Sewn Product Testing Labs 4. Garment Construction Details Lab 5. Apparel Sizing and Fit Strategies Lab 6. ASTM & ISO Stitch and Seam Classifications Lab

7. Labeling Regulations and Guidelines for Manufacturing Apparel Lab 8. Safety Regulations and Guidelines for Wearing Apparel Lab 9. Measuring Product Quality Through Raw Materials and Product Testing Lab 10. Inspection of Raw Materials and Sewn Products Lab

33


Technical Design and CAD for Fashion www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Fashion and Textile Design with Photoshop and Illustrator Professional Creative Practice Robert Hume

www / Textbook This book takes the reader from novice to professional in clear, easy-to-follow steps, with the learning approach tailored to meet the demands of users from the textile and fashion industry. With over 16 projects, case studies, interview features and the author’s many years of experience, this book offers readers a unique fast track to professional-level ability.

UK June 2016 US August 2016 256 pages 200 colour illus 270 x 210mm / 10.6 x 8.3 inches PB 9781472578754 £37.99 / $64.95 Series: Required Reading Range Fairchild Books

• Companion website hosts resources to accompany the projects in the book • Project-based content enables the reader to advance from one project to the next while understanding the essential tools of the applications, and to quickly gain the versatility required to apply them in varied contexts • Case studies and interview features with international fashion designers illustrate how professional designs originated in Photoshop and Illustrator Robert Hume teaches both in industry and in higher education, principally at Norwich University of the Arts, UK and at Central St. Martins College of Art and Design, London, UK.

Contents How to use this book Introduction Why use PH and AI for textiles and fashion? The projects 1. Level 1 Brief explanation of Photoshop Structure and some specific technical terms Project One - Photoshop Layers and Custom Brushes Project Two - Photoshop - New Ways of Drawing Project Three - Photoshop Scanning Drawings Project Four - Photoshop - Paths and Brushes Project Five - Photoshop Stripes and Weaves Case Study - Wallace and Sewell for Conran and Anthropologie

34

2. Level 2 Explanation of Level 2 Project Six - Photoshop Repeats and Colourways Project Seven - Photoshop Colour Theory in Practice Project Eight - Photoshop - Fills, Textures and Layers Project Nine - Illustrator - Paths to Fashion Project Ten - Illustrator - Simple Geometry in Illustrator Project Eleven - Repeat Patterns in Illustrator Case Study - Nadine Bucher Project Twelve - Illustrator, Photoshop and Filters Case Study - Tord Boontje for Kradvat 3. Level 3 Explanation of Level 3 Project Thirteen - Illustrator - The Blob and Art Brushes Project Fourteen - Illustrator Flats

Project Fifteen - Illustrator - All The Trimmings Project Sixteen - Illustrator Layout Project Seventeen - Illustrator Presentation Project Eighteen - Photoshop Presentation Case Study - Print Fresh Studio Case Study - C&A Designers Appendices: Sharing, Communication and Output Sharing, Communication and Output Problems with artwork: Paul Turnbull & Juliette Van Ryhn Help Things that can trip you up in Photoshop and Illustrator and the solutions Student and Tutor Resources Links to supporting material Index Acknowledgements, Contacts and Credits


Technical Design and CAD for Fashion

Key Titles

2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Technical Sourcebook for Designers Jaeil Lee and Camille Steen

Presents a comprehensive and holistic perspective of technical design processes for aspiring and professional apparel designers. • Includes detailed illustrations of design flats and sample spec sheets from technical packages for a variety of garments including menswear, women’s wear, and knitwear • Lists key terms and provides a comprehensive glossary • Features ASTM and ISO industry standards for seams and stitches plus tech packs for 12 different apparel products

www/Textbook UK May 2014 US March 2014 496 pages 695 2-colour illus 229 x 305mm / 9 x 12 inches Book + STUDIO Bundle 9781501395376
 £64.00 / $100.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395130 Fairchild Books

• Technical Sourcebook for Designers STUDIO features online self-study quizzes and flashcards, templates of blank tech packs, clip art of flats for various product, and Excel charts of tech packs with embedded grade rule formulas • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide, PowerPoint presentations and image bank available Jaeil Lee is a Professor and Director of Clothing and Textiles Program in the Department of Family and Consumer Science at Seattle Pacific University, USA.

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Step 3 When the shoulder seam is in place, continue on to the armhole.

Step 5 Draw a back neck line (see Steps 3 through 5 in Figure 4.33).

Step 4 Draw the side seam and the bottom edge, ending at the center line. Note that for this style, the bottom tapers in slightly (the chest measurement is bigger than the bottom opening), which is typical for a men’s knit style.

Step 6 Mirror the image. Remove the guide square, but leave the center line, which will be used to position the sleeve (see Figure 4.34).

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Step 1 Set up the horizontal guidelines for front neck drop and neck width. Identify the HPS position. Draw the front neckline according to the spec (see Figure 4.32).



Step 2 Set up the guides for shoulder point to point, and shoulder drop. Draw the line segment, which is the shoulder seam (see Figure 4.32).

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Figure 4.33 Drawing a men’s long-sleeved shirt: Steps 3 through 5

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78

Figure 4.34 mirror the drawing: Step 6

c H A P T E r 4 : D E v E lo P i n g T E c H n i c A l S k E Tc H E S

www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

CAD for Fashion Design and Merchandising

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Preface ¡ Acknowledgments ¡ Overview of the Industry ¡ The Apparel Product Development Process and Technical Design ¡ All about the Technical Package ¡ Developing Technical Sketches ¡ Technical Design Terms for Silhouettes and Design Details ¡ Styles, Lines, and Details for Shape and Fit ¡ Fabrics and Cutting ¡ Sweaters ¡ Stitches and SPI ¡ Seams, Seam Finishes and Edge Treatments ¡ Construction-Related Design Details ¡ Shape and Support ¡ Fasteners ¡ Labels and Packaging ¡ How to Measure, Size, and Grade ¡ Fit and Fitting ¡ Appendix A: Seams and Stitches ¡ Appendix B: XYZ Product Development, Inc.: Selected Technical Packages ¡ Glossary ¡ Index

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Figure 4.31 measurements, horizontal and vertical, men’s shirt

Camille Steen is Technical Designer Manager at Ex Officio LLC, USA.

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D r Aw i n g g A r m E n T S T o S c A l E , S T E P B y S T E P

79

www/Textbook An all-in-one resource for creating digital fashion presentations using Adobe IllustratorÂŽ and Adobe PhotoshopÂŽ. Colourful illustrations accompany easy, step-by-step tutorials and DVD videos geared toward students at the beginner and intermediate levels. • “Digital Duoâ€? feature shows users how to combine techniques in PhotoshopÂŽ and IllustratorÂŽ to achieve optimal results • CAD for Fashion Design and Merchandising STUDIO features video demonstrations providing additional practice and supplementary techniques, plus CS6 applications files needed to complete tutorials in the text, Digital Duo Modeling

2013 592 pages 1250 colour illus 229 x 305mm / 9 x 12 inches Book + STUDIO 9781501395345
 £60.00 / $100.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395109 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide available Stacy Stewart Smith is an Adjunct Assistant Professor of Fashion Design Art at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), USA.

35


Key Titles

Tailoring

www/Textbook

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Tailoring Techniques for Fashion Milva Fiorella Di Lorenzo

Tailoring Techniques for Fashion covers traditional and contemporary design and construction methods for tailored garments from ready-towear to couture details. Live demonstrations and hundreds of photographs illustrate stepby-step instructions for constructing a tailored skirt, trousers, jacket, and design details using traditional, fusible, machine, and mass-production methods. A history of the tailoring profession and a survey of contemporary tailoring business practices place these techniques in a professional context.

2009 208 pages 550 bw illus 280 x 215 mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501309700 £55.00 / $105.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501309687 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructors Guide and PowerPoint presentations available Milva Fiorella Di Lorenzo is an instructor at Miami International University, USA. Included in Tailoring Techniques for Fashion STUDIO • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips • Flashcards of terms and definitions • Videos featuring chapter-specific tutorials for tailoring techniques • Activities and links to additional resources • An online homework questionnaire • Full access to the content of the DVD previously packaged with the book

2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear A Construction Guide Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

“I believe this book is the authority in classic men’s tailoring. It really is the go-to book for many home sewers or instructors who want to give the most accurate methods for hand tailoring.” Casey Stannard, Oregon State University, USA This authoritative book on traditional custom tailoring construction has been fully updated with new art to reflect contemporary practices in bespoke and luxury ready-to-wear tailoring. • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s guide available Roberto Cabrera was an instructor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, USA. Denis Antoine is a leading practicioner and educator in the field of men’s tailoring, currently teaching menswear design and construction at the Savannah College of Art and Design, USA.

New to this edition • More than 700 new photographs and illustrations with color line overlays improve the clarity and detail of instructions and examples • Expanded key terminology within text, a new glossary and updated list of supply sources at the end of the book • New boxed features adjacent to construction processes discuss how the traditional methods presented can also be used for the production of “hybrid” luxury ready-towear • Presents clarified measuring instructions supported by a new series of annotated photographs

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www/Textbook 2015 296 pages 485 bw photos and 263 bw illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches PB 9781628921700 £56.00 / $85.00 Fairchild Books


Patternmaking and Draping

3rd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Concepts of Pattern Grading Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading

“It is well written, informative, and I believe superior to other books.” Jacquelene Robeck, University of Louisiana, USA

Kathy K. Mullet

This textbook takes a holistic approach to pattern grading that presents a mix of theory and practice to facilitate the learning process.

“A PERFECT book for the market niche.” Carol Roscheck Sapos, Santa Monica College, USA

www/Textbook UK November 2015 US September 2015 240 pages 155 bw illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501312823 £60.00 / $95.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501312809 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and Test Bank available Kathy K. Mullet is an associate professor at Oregon State University, USA. New to this edition • Expanded discussion of computer grading technology including Optitex, Gerber, Lectra, and Tukatech software • 20% new end-of-chapter exercise questions • Includes more than 200 illustrations and 85 tables for grade rules, measurement charts and garment specifications • Provides updated information on ASTM sizing standards • Added discussion on grading from specifications and development of tolerances Included in Concepts of Pattern Grading STUDIO • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips • Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions

Contents Preface 1. Pattern Grading Fundamentals 2. Understanding a Grading System 3. Manual Grading on the Cartesian Graph 4. Computer Grading 5. Grading the Basic Pattern Blocks 6. Sleeve/Bodice Combinations 7. Design Variations 8. Grading Using Multiple x, y Axes 9. Grading Stretch Garments

10. Grading from Garment Specifications 11. Concepts of Alphanumeric Grading Appendix A: Rationale for a Simplified Grading System Based on PS 42-70 Grade Guide Appendix B: ASTM D 558601 Standard Table for Body Measurements for Women Aged 55 and Older (Misses Figure Type) Appendix C: Pattern Grading Aids Glossary Index

Chapter 2

Grade Guide

produce a grade distribution for the back and front body that results in the actual anthropometric measurements across a size range. Table A.1 contains arc measurements and total girth measurements for the bust, waist, and hips. It is important to know what the complex grade distribution is so that the efficiency of a simplified system developed from the same data can be evaluated. The complex grading system based on the PS 42-70 Grade Guide has been simplified by the authors of this text with the rationale illustrated in Appendix A. By comparing complex and simplified systems developed from the same data, it is apparent why garments in extreme sizes may result in fit problems and distortion of style sense when graded by a simplified system (Table A.5).

explained. An understanding of how a grading system is developed; therefore, any data can be used.

Development of Grading Systems Grading systems are developed to translate the body changes that occur from size to size to the corresponding garment master pattern pieces. The procedure used to develop a grading system is as follows: 1. Collect anthropometric data from individuals within a target population 2. Statistically analyze the collected data to determine sizing specifications and standards 3. Distribute the dimensions from the size specifications across the body to replicate the body shape changes from size to size

The second difference in grading systems is how the total grade is distributed within the width and length of the pattern. Figure 2.2 presents a comparison among the authors’ grading system and systems used by Price and Zamkoff (1996) and Handford (2003). The differences are most apparent in the extreme sizes, because the changes are cumulative across the size range. It should be noted that Price and Zamkoff are authors from New York, and many firms use this grade distribution. Handford was from the west coast of the United States, and many west coast firms follow his grade distributions.

Grading Systems A grading system is developed from sizing specifications, and sizing specifications are derived from anthropometric surveys. A grade guide dictates the system of grade distribution across the pattern. The review of available anthropometric data, which consists of measurements of actual body dimensions, is important to understand the development of sizing specifications and how they are basic to grade guides used for pattern grading systems (Appendix A). A grade guide is determined by the mathematical differences between the dimensions of adjacent sizes.

This systematic increasing and decreasing of the body dimensions between sizes is fundamental to developing a grading system. This process of understanding the differences between the measurements is of major importance. A grading system conveys the incremental changes between the body measurements or garment dimensions as the size increases or decreases. These increments are then used to develop grade guides and x,y coordinates for grade rules. Appendix A illustrates how anthropometric data can be used to develop a grading system. The PS 42-70 Voluntary Product Standard lists sizes 6 to 22, a range of nine sizes (Table A.1). Table A.2 in Appendix A is the Grade Guide for the Misses Size specification table and consists of girth, arc, width, and length measurements. A grade guide dictates the grading system by which the grades are distributed in the pattern. To use the PS 42-70 Grade Guide as is would require the development of a complex grading system, which can be found in Appendix A. Only a complex grading system can

Grade Guide The bust, waist, and hip are the three primary body girth measurements applied to pattern grading. Generally, the amount of total body girth change is the same for the bust, the waist, and the hip. This difference designates the amount of grade for the garment and is referred to as a uniform grade. If the change in all three body areas is 1 inch, then the pattern has a 1-inch grade. A mixed grade occurs if the change in one of the three body areas, such as the waist, is different than in the others. In a mixed grade, each area is designated as having its own grade (i.e., bust: a 2-inch grade; waist: a 1 1/2-inch grade;

Using the bodice as an example, the width grade is distributed within the neck, the shoulder, and the underarm areas. The length grade is distributed in the 1/8

1/8

1/16 1/16

0 1/8 3/16

Bodice Front

Major Differences in Grading Systems

1/8

1/8 3/16

Bodice Front

3/16

1/16

1/8

Authors’ Simplified System from PS 42-70 Grade Guide

1/8

3/16

1/16

1/8 1/8

1/8 1/8

1/8 1/8

1/8

Grading systems differ in two major ways. The first difference is the size at which the grade changes in the size range from a 1-inch to a 1 1/2-inch grade and from a 1 1/2-inch to a 2-inch grade. This numeric classification (i.e., 1 inch, 1 1/2 inch, and 2 inch) indicates the dimensional change from one size to the adjacent size. In a comparison of body dimension specifications among 39 commercial apparel manufacturers and the U.S. Army specifications, the

1/8

1/16

1/16

1/8

1/8

1/8

1/8

Price and Zamkoff

1/8

Bodice Front

1/8

1/8

1/8

1/8

1/8

Handford

Figure 2.2 Comparison of 1 1/2-inch Grading Systems

11

10

9781628922301_txt_app_02.indd 10

neck, the armscye, and the underarm to waist areas. Different systems may specify varying amounts of the total width or length grades in each of these areas, which in turn affects how the garment fits in each of these areas. The effects of the differences in the sizes where the grade changes and how the grade is distributed within each size are most apparent in the fit of extreme sizes in a size range.

change from a 1-inch to a 1 1/2-inch grade varied from between sizes 6 and 8 to between sizes 16 and 18, with the greatest number of changes occurring between sizes 12 and 14 (Staples, 1994). The same variation was found in the sizes where the grade changed to a 2-inch grade.

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Patternmaking and Draping

www / Textbook

3rd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Fitting and Pattern Alteration A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

“No other book addresses the topic as clearly and as concise as this one . . . I would consider it a ‘bible’ on the subject. It is packed with information, challenges and solutions.” Luz Pascal, FIT, USA This all-inclusive guide presents proven methods of style selection, fitting, and alteration that are rooted in the elements and principles of design. Using an easy-to-follow approach, procedures for measuring, fitting, and altering the bodice, sleeve, skirt and pant are clearly identified and fully illustrated.

UK April 2016 US February 2016 480 pages 1,250 bw illus and photos 305 x 229mm / 12 x 9 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501318207 £76.00 / $115.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501318177 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide with new Test Bank Elizabeth Liechty is Professor Emerita at Brigham Young University, USA. Judith Rasband is the founder and CEO of Conselle L.C. and director of the Conselle Institute of Image Management, USA. Della N. Pottberg-Steineckert is Professor Emerita at Brigham Young University, USA. Features • Causes of fit problems are clearly identified in the figure variations • “Reality Check” boxes present further details on the topic at hand and reinforce the learning experience • More than 1,200 illustrations with color to clarify instructions New to this edition • Fitting and Pattern Alteration STUDIO includes online self-quizzes, flashcards, a new glossary, additional exercises and questions for discussion • Chapter objectives highlight learning goals for students • Graded pattern illustrations, measurement illustrations, photos of actual body types and illustrations of advanced bodice and pant fitting patterns • New spiral-bound format Contents Preface Acknowledgments, Resources, Suggested Readings Part 1: Get Ready 1. Preparing for Success in Apparel Fitting and Alteration 2. Using the Elements and Principles of Design in Apparel

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3. Fitting Standards in Apparel Part 2: Get Set 4. Alternative Methods of Figure Evaluation and Style Selection 5. Alternative Methods of Fitting 6. Alternative Methods of Pattern Alteration

7. Personalized Patterns and Sloper Part 3: Go! Introduction 8. Bodices 9. Sleeves 10. Skirts and Pants Index


Key Titles

Patternmaking and Draping

Fashion Pattern Cutting Line, Shape and Volume Zarida Zaman

Fashion Pattern Cutting pushes the boundaries of 3D experimentation on the mannequin stand. Designed to boost confidence and design creativity, it provides a step-bystep guide to the pattern cutting process, from finding the initial inspiration for a design through to creating the finished product.

UK June 2014 US August 2014 144 pages 200 colour illus 276 x 219mm / 10.9 x 8.6 inches PB 9781408156698 £19.99 / $29.95 Bloomsbury Visual Arts

Included in the book are hand-drawn pattern pieces, complete with measurements and recommended fabrics to help readers achieve the best effects, whether beginners or experienced pattern cutters. Zarida Zaman teaches at Institute Marangoni and the London College of Fashion, UK.

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Patternmaking for Menswear Classic to Contemporary Myoungok Kim and Injoo Kim

www/Textbook A current, comprehensive and user-friendly guide to men’s patternmaking. • Reflects the contemporary menswear market with emphasis on patternmaking for both slim-fit and classic-fit style • Details patternmaking techniques for knit designs using jersey fabrics

2014 488 pages 600 bw illus 229 x 305mm / 9 x 12 inches 9781609019440 Fairchild Books

• Includes 2-colour flat sketches showing details and finished pattern drafts and photos showing completed garments and how to accurately measure the male body • Downloadable half-scale pattern slopers available • Teaching Resources: Instructor's Guides including course syllabi, project descriptions, student samples, and evaluation sheets for each project available Myoungok Kim is a lecturer in the Department of Clothing and Textiles at Hanyang University, South Korea, as well as a visiting scholar at the University of Cincinnati, USA. Injoo Kim is an Associate Professor in the Fashion Design program at the University of Cincinnati, USA.

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Patternmaking and Draping

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Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics Julie Cole

With hundreds of step-by-step illustrations and instructions and a user-friendly, stay-flat format, Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics provides emerging fashion designers with comprehensive information on how to draft patterns for popular cut and sew knits and stretch fabrics such as jersey and spandex. • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and Test Bank available

UK April 2016 US February 2016 416 pages 950 2-color illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501318245 £60.00 / $100.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501318221 Fairchild Books

Julie Cole has taught fashion design courses at Harper College, International Academy of Design and Technology and Mount Mary College, USA. Features • Accurate and simplified system for patternmaking with stretch knit fabrics • Consistent structure to each chapter includes Key Terms, highlyillustrated step-by-step instructions, ‘Important,’ ‘Pattern Tip,’ and ‘Stitching Tip’ boxes, Knit it Together checklist, ‘Stop! What Do I Do If...' troubleshooting tips, and Self Critique review • More than 900 line drawings with color accents and 100 photographs of sewn samples on the dress form Included in Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics STUDIO • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips • Flashcards of terms and definitions • Downloadable files for half-size Top and Hip Foundations, and slopers found throughout the text Contents

Narrow Facing A narrow facing is used to finish raw edges of a neckline or the armholes. The facing can be stitched to the entire neckline or to part of the neckline. The facing is cut from a narrow strip of lightweight knit, bias cut woven fabric or bias binding can be used. The polo top in Figure 6.1g has a narrow facing stitched to the back neckline.

Draft Facing (Figure 6.62) ●●

●●

●●

●●

●●

STITCHING TIP 6.8: STITCHING THE NARROW FACING

STITCHING TIP 6.9: STITCHING THE TURNED AND TOPSTITCHED EDGE

Refer to Figure 6.51c to stitch the narrow facing. • Fold the facing in half with wrong sides together and lengthwise edges aligned, press • Place correct sides of the garment and facing together and stitch a ¼" seam. • Turn the facing inside the garment, understitched and topstitched.

Refer to Figure 6.51d to stitch the turned and topstitched edge. • Press narrow stabilizing tape cut from four-way stretch knit interfacing to the neckline for stability. Then join the shoulder seams, do not serge the neck edge. • Press the allowance to the wrong side, stretching as you press so the turning sits flat. If the fabric is springy loosely handbaste the turning and then press. • Topstitch the edge with narrow (2.00−2.5) twin needles. Begin stitching on a seamline.

Turned-and-Topstitched

Draw the neckline/armhole outline on the pattern. Add ¼" seam allowances to these edges for stitching the facing. Measure the length of the seamline/s where the facing will be applied. Draft the facing pattern 1 ¼" wide and the total length of the neckline. The length of the facing does not need to be reduced. Add ¼" extra seam allowance to both ends of the facing.

Collar and Box Placket (Polo Top) (Figure 6.1g)

Draft Patterns (Figure 6.63) ●● ●●

●●

3

Draw the placket width and length on the front pattern. Next add a ¼" seam allowance to the three edges of the placket. Notice the cut-away section on the front pattern in Figure 6.64a). Fold a piece of pattern paper in half and trace the placket outline from the folded edge of the paper. Add ¼" seam allowances. (Figure 6.64b). "Ralph Lauren.” http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/ bios/ralphlauren/ “Ralph Lauren” (Accessed October 28, 2014).

a)

Foldline

b)

Cut Away Section

Folded Edge

Neckline Length Figure 6.62 Draft Facing

Directional Seamlines Front Top

c) CB

Front Sleeveless Top

1⁄ 4″

Placket Pattern

1⁄ 4″

Placket Width and Outline

Matchpoint Pattern Paper

CF Notch

Placket Pattern

Back Sleeveless Top

Cut 2

Seam Allowance Matchpoint

Figure 6.63 Draft Pattern

Figure 6.64a,b and c Draft Cut-away Section and Placket Neckline Finishes

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Matchpoint

Seam Allowance

Matchpoint

Edge Allowance

40

Draft Cut-away Section and Placket (Figure 6.64a, b, and c) ●●

●●

American designer Ralph Lauren has popularized his signature polo shirt which typically has a collar, placket and two or three buttons. The design and stitching technique

Draw the outline of the garment on the pattern. Add a ½" edge allowance beyond the seamline for turning the folded edge. Draw directional seamlines at the armhole/shoulder, neckline/shoulder and armhole/underarm points.

Narrow Facing

have not changed since the first men’s polo shirt was produced in 1978.3 To stitch a placket, a section needs to be cut away (or slit) to allow space for the placket to be stitched. The amount to cut-away on the center front is determined by the width of the placket.

●●

This is a versatile and simple edge finish to use on neckline, armholes and hems.

Length

9. Skirt Slopers and Patterns 10. Pant Slopers and Patterns 11. Lingerie Slopers and Patterns 12. Swimwear Slopers and Patterns Bibliography Glossary Index

Center Front

Preface Acknowledgements 1. Getting the Knack of Knits 2. The Knit Family of Slopers 3. Pattern Drafting for Knits 4. Layout, Cutting and Stitching Knits 5. Drafting the Hip and Top Foundations 6. Top Slopers and Patterns 7. Dress Slopers and Patterns 8. Jacket, Cardigan, Sweater, and Sweater-Jacket Slopers and Patterns

Chapter 6: Tops Slopers and Patterns

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Sewing Techniques

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Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics Sharon Czachor

www/Textbook With hundreds of step-by-step photos and a user-friendly format, Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics provides emerging fashion designers with comprehensive information on how to design and stitch garments made with popular knits and stretch fabrics. • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and Test Bank available

UK March 2016 US February 2016 304 pages 210 bw illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501316494 £60.00 / $90.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501316470 Fairchild Books

Sharon Czachor is an adjunct instructor in the fashion department of Harper College in Illinois, USA, and has also taught at the College of DuPage, Illinois, USA. Features • Covers industrial and home sewing machines, overlock machines, and coverstitch machines, plus supplies, needles and threads used to construct knit garments • Learning objectives, “Sewing Tips” and “Important” boxes, key terms, sample exercises at different levels of complexity, review questions, and designer profiles in each chapter Included in Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics STUDIO • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips • Flashcards of terms and definitions • Downloadable files for the patterns used to create the sewing samples throughout the text, a Fabric Form template, and a Sample Checklist to help readers develop their own resource book of sample techniques, swatches of knit, stretch, and stretch woven fabrics Contents Preface Acknowledgements 1. Getting to Know Knits and Stretch Fabrics Contents 2. What You Need to Sew and Overlock Knits and Stretch Wovens 3. Sizing Knits 4. Preparing Knits and Stretch Woven Fabrics for Stitching 5. Stitching Knits with a Sewing Machine 6. Stitching Knits with an Overlock and Coverstitch Machine 7. T-Shirts, Tops and Sweaters 8. Dresses: Pullover, Wrap, Knit LBD

9. Skirts and Pants 10. Jackets: Classic French Cardigan and Sweater Jacket with Scarf 11. Activewear and Swimwear 12. Lingerie 13. Creating Texture with Pleats, Tucks, Gathers, Ruffles and Trims Appendix A: Fabric Form Appendix B: Sample Checklist Appendix C: Resources and Where to Buy Appendix D: Manufacturing Industry Forms Glossary Credits Index

Take NoTe 10.4 Whatever closure the designer chooses to use for the garment, it must be functional and easy to use. A complicated design may be annoying to have to struggle with putting on and off.

Buttons and buttonholes are the most frequently used closure. In this chapter, a covered button and a layered button are sampled. A “faced” machine buttonhole is first basted to outline the shape; it’s stitched for unusual or large, shaped buttons (Figures 10.3 and 10.4). In order for a garment with buttons and buttonholes, such as the classic French cardigan, to close accurately and correctly, the garment center lines must be brought directly together when buttoned (Figure 10.5). This is marked on the garment front extension (added to the pattern) and finished with seam treatments (Figure 10.6). In women’s clothes, the garment buttonholes are on the right side of the garment and the buttons are on the left side. Use snaps on the underside of the garment if a very large decorative button is used. An extremely large buttonhole to accommodate the size of the button would be very unattractive and might not function properly.

Figure 10.1 Functional facing with edge finish

Take NoTe 10.2 Understitching the facing to the seam allowance prevents the facing from rolling to the outside of the garment. Do not omit this very important step for a professional finish.

A decorative facing is a piece of fabric that is attached to the raw edge of a garment to finish that edge, but is turned to the right side (RS) of the garment. It functions as a trim as well as a facing. Allow ¹⁄8–¼" more in the seam allowance for turning the facing to the outside of the garment, allowing for the turn of cloth. Grading and trimming the seam allowance produces a flat turn of the facing. The facing edges should always have nicely finished edges. The designer will evaluate the weight, bulk, and texture of the facing and determine what stitching method will result in flat facing. Sample several different stitch treatments for knit fabrics: three-thread overlock stitch, fourthread overlock stitch, sewing machine wide zigzag stitch, or if necessary due to bulk, leave the smooth, evenly cut facing edge unfinished.

Patch Pockets A patch pocket is a shaped piece of fabric applied to the surface of a garment (Figure 10.2). It can be self-faced, unlined, or lined, and is functional or decorative. Used on tailored garments, suits, sportswear, and casual garments, it’s also commonly stitched to T-shirts. A patch pocket offers the designer many opportunities for creativity and embellishment. The application of the pocket onto the

Figure 10.2 Patch pocket with faux leather trim

surface of a garment must be precise and evenly stitched. Any detail applied to the surface of the garment should be of the highest possible stitching quality. The patch pocket is limited only by the type of fabric that is being used and the purpose for which the pocket is designed. It can be any shape, can have embellishments, zippers, flaps, or buttoned flaps, and can become the focus of the garment.

Take NoTe 10.3 Always create a sample pocket from the fabric being used for the garment before stitching the pocket to the garment. Removing stitches if an error occurs can damage the knit fabric.

Closures: Buttonholes, Snaps, Covered Buttons, and Layered Buttons A closure is whatever is used to fasten the garment to close it: buttons and buttonholes, snaps, covered buttons, layered buttons, zippers, and loops, to mention just a few. Each closure should complement the fabric and design.

Closures: Buttonholes, Snaps, Covered Buttons, and Layered Buttons

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Figure 10.4 Shaped “faced” buttonhole

Figure 10.5 Classic French cardigan, buttons meeting at center front

Figure 10.3 Stabilized machine-made “faced” buttonhole

Chapter 10

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Jackets

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Sewing Techniques

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2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

The Art of Couture Sewing Zoya Nudelman

The Art of Couture Sewing is a practical guide to custom techniques in the construction of couture garments. The book covers tools and supplies, then discusses matching fabrics with the appropriate needle, thread, pressing, and construction techniques. The text is filled with step-by-step techniques along with clear instructions and illustrations.

UK April 2016 US March 2016 456 pages 1,387 colour illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches PB 9781609018313 £74.00 / $110.00 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and PowerPoint presentations available Zoya Nudelman is an Assistant Professor in the Fashion Design Department at Illinois Institute of Art- Chicago, USA. Features • End-of-chapter biographies discuss notable designers and their couture techniques, such as Paul Poiret, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and Vera Wang • More than 1,300 color photos and illustrations New to this edition • Expanded coverage of corset history, design, and construction • New chapter on constructing large skirts including trains, hoop skirts, and petticoats • Updated fashion photographs and new illustrations throughout the book Contents Preface Acknowledgements 1. Introduction to Couture 2. The Art of Textiles 3. Uses of Sewing Tools and Supplies 4. The Skill of Hand and Machine Stitching 5. The Skill of Couture Draping 6. The Art of Skirts 7. The Secret of the Corset 8. The Skill of Fabric Manipulation 9. The Skill of Garment Embellishment 10. The Secret of Closures 11. The Skill of Hems and Other Edge Finishes 12. The Skill of Basic Tailoring Glossary Bibliography Credits Index

42

seam allowance, and clip off the extra fabric. Pin the pattern pieces back together, and place on the dressform to check for fit. (Figure 5.9b) You can use this same technique to design many different designs just by drawing style lines on your pattern blocks. (Figure 5.9c)

Figure 5.9b Trued halter block.

Figure 5.8 Dart placement examples.

You have just created a one-dart pattern block. You can now turn this block into any design you want. You can also drape a block with two darts using the same technique, or even one dart in a different spot, like a French dart or a side dart. (Figure 5.8)

Turn This Block into a Halter In couture, a halter top is very common in dresses. You can drape the halter separately from scratch, or you can drape a complete front and back dart block and turn it into a halter top. 1. To begin, drape the front and back blocks. It will be your choice which darts you choose to use in your design. 2. The front and back blocks need to be pinned together on the dressform to continue. 3. Mark the style lines with your marking tool. Mark the halter line at the neckline and shoulder/armhole, and take the style line to the back of the pattern by continuing the line to the back. (Figure 5.9a) Take the fabric off the form, and true all of your lines with a ruler. Add

118

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Figure 5.9c Style line examples.

Figure 5.9a Mark your style lines on your pinned muslin blocks.

Chapter 5: The Skill of Couture Draping

Turn This Block into a Halter

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Key Titles

Sewing Techniques

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6th Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

A Guide to Fashion Sewing Connie Amaden-Crawford

Features step-by-step instructions and illustrations that take the reader start to finish through over 100 sewing applications. • Studio Tips highlight important construction techniques used in the fashion industry • A Guide to Fashion Sewing STUDIO includes video demonstrations to accompany chapter lessons, plus self-quizzes and flashcards • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide available

UK May 2015 US March 2015 400 pages 1200 bw illus 229 x 305mm / 9 x 12 inches Book + STUDIO Bundle 9781501395284 £70.00 / $115.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395048 Fairchild Books

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2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers Julie Cole and Sharon Czachor

A fully illustrated and detailed construction guide designed to help students and professionals develop accurate and quality sewing skills to create original fashion designs. • Style Key features indicate the various materials used for each project • New chapter order reflects the stitching order of garments

UK July 2014 US June 2014 608 pages 1,015 colour illus 280 x 216mm / 11 x 8.5 inches 9781609019259 Fairchild Books

• New Chapter 5 "Sticking Knits: Working with Stretch" and Chapter 7 "Fitting: Developing an 'Eye' for Good Fit" • Downloadable half-scale patterns to accompany each chapter available • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide available

2nd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Sample Workbook to Accompany Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers

This companion workbook consists of project instructions and card stock worksheets in a 3-hole binder for convenient storage. Using these resources, students can sew sample garment details and record design information for ongoing and additional projects. The instructions for each project list the supplies and tasks needed to prepare the samples, plus clear cross references to sewing techniques in the textbook, Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers, 2nd Edition, and the downloadable half-scales patterns available to complete projects.

www/Textbook UK August 2014 US June 2014 160 pages 216 x 279mm / 8.5 x 11 inches Flexiback 9781609018801 £50.00 / $80.00 Fairchild Books

Julie Cole and Sharon Czachor

43


Introduction to Textiles

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11th Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

J.J. Pizzuto’s Fabric Science Ingrid Johnson, Allen C. Cohen and Ajoy K. Sarkar

“The images are outstanding–fresh, in color, and stylish. It is hard to make textiles sexy, but the front matter to each chapter reminds us that textiles are the basis of fashion.” Sandra Lee Evenson, University of Idaho, USA The most comprehensive and current introduction to the textile industry — from fibers and finishes to smart textiles and end uses in fashion and interior design — all in a convenient binder format.

UK November 2015 US September 2015 384 pages 291 colour illus Book + STUDIO Bundle 9781501395369 £70.00 / $105.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395123 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide, Test Bank, and PowerPoint presentations available Ingrid Johnson is a Full Professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), USA. Ajoy Sarkar teaches textile development and marketing at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), USA.

Knit Fabric Classifications

Allen C. Cohen was a Professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), USA.

Figure 6.12

Miss stitch. Note the floating unknit yarn in this diagram on the fabric back and the stitch elongation in the wale.

There are two main classifications of knitted fabrics: weft knits and warp knits. Each uses different kinds of machinery for producing fabric and each produces different types of fabrics. Examples of weft-knit fabrics are those used in sweaters and hosiery; an example of warp knit fabric is the material used in lingerie. Hand knitting is a weft knitting procedure. In weft knits, yarn traverses from side to side (or around), interacting with the needles to form new fabric stitches. In warp knits, a set of yarns traverses lengthwise, interacting with the needles to form new fabric stitches. The terms weft and warp are derived from woven terms, but unlike woven fabrics, knits are made from one set of yarns interlooping, as distinct from woven fabrics, which have two sets of yarns interlacing. (See Figure 6.14a and b.)

New to this edition • Updates include fiber innovations, high performance fabrics, smart textiles, nanotechnology, recent developments in wet processing and textile technology, global sourcing options, and sustainability

Figure 6.13

tuck stitch A tuck stitch is formed when a knitting needle holds its old loop and then receives a new yarn. Two loops then collect in the needle hook. The action may be repeated several more times, but the yarns eventually have to be cast off the needle and knitted. Figure 6.13 illustrates a tuck stitch. The resultant stitch is elongated. Tuck stitches appear on the back of a fabric and may be recognized as an inverted V, sometimes elongated for two or more courses, depending on how many times the stitch was tucked. The tuck stitch is used in knitted fabrics to create design effects in color, raised surface texture, or a hole or eyelet effect. The tuck stitch also has a tendency to increase fabric weight, width (wales are pushed apart), and thickness (yarn from the tuck stitch lies on top of the preceding stitch).

• “Business of Textiles” feature focuses on applications with topics such as the novelty yarns used in Chanel suits, current wearable apparel technology, and new green dry cleaning methods • 20% new photographs

K n i t

• Renamed and expanded Chapter 13 “Performance, Technical, and Smart Textiles”

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Included in Fabric Science STUDIO • Flashcards of terms and definitions and fabric identification • Videos bring chapter topics and concepts to life

Contents

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8. Textile Dyeing 9. Textile Printing 10. Textile Finishing 11. Textiles and the Environment 12. Care and Renovation of Textiles 13. Performance, Technical, and Smart Textiles 14. Textiles for Interiors 15. Determining Fabric Quality

f a b r i c

b Figure 6.14

Yarn formation and stitches in the two main classifications of knitted fabrics: (a) weft knit and (b) warp knit. Note the way yarns interloop with each other in the weft knit as compared to the warp knit. c l a s s i f i c a t i o n s

• 121 •

• Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips

Preface Acknowledgements 1. The Textile Industry 2. Fiber Characteristics 3. Natural and Manufactured Fibers 4. Yarns and Sewing Threads 5. Woven Fabrics 6. Knitted Fabrics 7. Other Types of Textiles

a

Tuck stitch. Note the elongated stitch in the wale in this diagram of the fabric back. The tuck stitch appears in a fabric as an inverted V.

16. Guide to Fabric Selection 17. Textiles Laws, Regulations, and Trade Agreements Textile Trade and Professional Associations Bibliography Credits Index

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Introduction to Textiles

www/Textbook

11th Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

J.J. Pizzuto’s Fabric Science Swatch Kit

Designed to provide students with a hands-on experience with a range of textiles, this complete swatch kit contains 114 bundled fabric swatches, a fabric key, 40 assignments, a glossary of key terms, fabric mounting boards, and a magnified pick glass - all in a convenient three-ring binder.

Ingrid Johnson, Allen C. Cohen and Ajoy Sarkar

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide, Instructor’s Swatch Set including 7” x 12” samples of each fabric, Fabric Sample Answer Sheet PDF with filled-in fabric pages for easy gradings, and PowerPoint presentations available Ingrid Johnson is a Full Professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), USA.

UK November 2015 US September 2015 130 pages 114 2’’x 3’’ fabric swatches 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Loose leaf + STUDIO bundle 9781501316517 £60.00 / $90.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501316500 Fairchild Books

Ajoy K. Sarkar teaches textile development and marketing at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), USA. Allen C. Cohen was a Professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), USA. New to this edition • 40 updated, basic assignments do not require laboratory equipment to complete, making the material accessible to a range of students and schools • Glossary of key kerms provides a handy reference for textile industry terminology. • New smart textiles, performance fabrics, knits, and sustainable swatches added to the kit Included in Fabric Science Swatch Kit STUDIO • Fabric flashcards including 10x magnified views of all swatches and fabric details • Video with a step-by-step demonstration for how to compile the swatch kit and use the pick glass • Fabric Swatch Quick Guide featuring front images of each swatch, the fabric name and number to easily confirm that fabrics are mounted correctly

Key Titles www/Textbook

3rd Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics

Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics is an all-in-one text and swatch book that focuses on the unique needs of students in fashion design, apparel manufacturing and merchandising, and product development.

Deborah E. Young

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide with new Fabric Key PDF, Test Bank, and PowerPoint presentations available

• Pack includes 208 swatches and a 6x plastic pick glass linen tester

2015 240 pages 52 bw illus Loose leaf 9781628926569 £106.00 / $170.00 Fairchild Books

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Textile Design and Technology

www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Fashion and Technology A Guide to Materials and Applications Aneta Genova and Katherine Moriwaki

www/Textbook As the worlds of fashion and technology continue to collide, this practical text goes beyond smart textiles to provide an introduction to the ways in which emerging technology in the areas of electronics, digital fabrication, and creative coding are impacting fashion—and provides hands-on tutorials for using these sensational materials in the design process.

UK May 2016 US March 2016 256 pages 220 colour illus 254 x 203mm / 10 x 8 inches PB 9781501305085 £46.00 / $70.00 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and a PowerPoint presentations available Aneta Genova is a professor in the fashion design program at Parsons the New School for Design, USA. Katherine Moriwaki is Director of the MFA Design + Technology program in the School of Art, Media and Technology at Parsons the New School for Design, USA. Features • Interviews with interdisciplinary designers and professionals such as Leah Bucheley, developer of the LilyPad Arduino toolkit and Bre Pettis, CEO of Makerbot • Case studes of designers and artists who use technology in fashion, such as Hussein Chalayan, threeASFOUR, Vega Zaishi Wang, and Alexander McQueen • Includes chapter opening questions, bolded key terms, glossary, suggested assignments related to each experiment, a materials resources list, and additional suggested reading on inspiration, material properties, software and hardware, plus highlight boxes, featuring key properties of materials, sensors, and techniques throughout the text Contents Preface Introduction 1. Understanding Fashion and Technology 2. Contemporary Fashion and the Integration of Technology 3. Designing with Electronics 4. Designing with Conductive and Reactive Materials 5. Designing with Commercial Kits

6. Designing with Digital Fabrication Technology: Laser Cutting, 3D Modeling and 3D Printing 7. Designing with Code Conclusion: New Directions, New Horizons Sources and Materials Bibliography Glossary Index

Figure 3.11 A garment from the Air Collection by the British exploration house THEuNSEEN. It features a form of wind reactive ink that changes color upon contact with the air around it. 10

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3 How To Design With Conductive and Reactive Materials

Reactive Materials

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Textile Design and Technology

Textile Technology and Design From Interior Space to Outer Space Edited by Deborah Schneiderman and Alexa Griffith Winton

“The intersections and overlaps between the wrapping, lining and layering of our bodies and the environments that we occupy are explored in this innovative publication.” Graeme Brooker, Middlesex University, UK From tailored prefabs to designing interiors for outer space, Textile Technology and Design weaves together concepts from a range of fields, providing much needed context to the digital fabrication technologies that are increasingly emphasized in textile and design programs.

January 2016 272 pages 64 bw and 16 colour illus 244 x 169mm / 9.6 x 6.7 inches PB 9781472523754 £19.99 / $34.95 HB 9781472528803 £65.00 / $112.00 Bloomsbury Academic

Deborah Schneiderman is Associate Professor of interior design in the School of Art & Design at the Pratt Institute, New York, USA. Alexa Griffith Winton is an independent design historian based in New York, where she is also a part time assistant professor at Parsons School of Constructed Environments, New York, USA.

Digital Textile Printing Susan Carden

This book is the first to describe the historical and cultural context from which digital textile printing emerged and to engage critically with the many issues that it raises: the changing role of the textile designer; the transformation of the design process by new technology; the relationships between producers, clients and industry; and the impact of digital printing on wider creative industries. It addresses two key questions: what constitutes authenticity when printed textiles are created through the combined agency of the artist/ designer and the computer? And how can this new technology work sustainably in a period of spiralling demand?

December 2015 160 pages 29 colour and 11 bw illus 246 x 189mm / 9.7 x 7.4 inches PB 9781472535672 £21.99 / $34.95 HB 9781472535689 £65.00 / $100.00 Series: Textiles that Changed the World Bloomsbury Academic

Susan Carden is an award-winning textile designer and Associate Lecturer at Northumbria University, UK.

Key Titles www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Surface Design for Fabric Kimberly A. Irwin

www/Textbook A how-to guide to more than 60 surface design techniques for various fabrics and leather—ranging from the traditional to the experimental. • Surface Design for Fabric STUDIO includes video tutorials featuring select techniques from each chapter; student self-quizzes with results and personalized study tips; and flashcards with definitions and image identification to help students master concepts and improve grades • Presented in a spiral binding for easy, stay-flat use in a studio environment

2015 304 pages 600 color illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395277 £50.00 / $85.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395031 Fairchild Books

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide and Test Bank Kimberly A. Irwin teaches fashion construction, apparel development and experimental design techniques at Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD), USA.

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Textile History and Culture

Tweed Fiona Anderson

This book considers the historical and social factors that helped to shape, change and define the characteristics of the group of fabrics that we call tweed since its emergence in the 1820s to the present day. Including significant new research on tweeds, from Harris Tweed to the type used by Chanel, this book follows the history of these fabrics from the raw fibre to the finished garment in men’s and women’s fashion. This is the first book of its kind to recognize the versatility of tweed and its importance in textiles and fashion today. Fiona Anderson is an Independent Scholar and Curator. She was formerly Senior Curator of Fashion and Textiles at National Museums Scotland, UK.

The Handbook of Textile Culture Edited by Janis Jefferies, Hazel Clark and Diana Wood Conroy

Textile culture is a dynamic field of scholarship, reflecting new global, material and technological possibilities. This is the first handbook of specially commissioned essays to provide a guide to the major strands of critical work around textiles past and present. It draws upon the work of artists and designers as well as researchers and presents an overview of the state of the art in textiles studies today.

May 2016 256 pages 60 bw and 16 colour illus 246 x 189mm / 9.7 x 7.4 inches PB 9781845206970 £21.99 / $39.95 HB 9781845206963 £55.00 / $99.95 Series: Textiles that Changed the World Bloomsbury Academic

December 2015 608 pages 80 colour and 20 bw illus 244 x 169mm / 9.6 x 6.7 inches HB 9780857857750 £95.00 / $164.00 Bloomsbury Academic

Janis Jefferies is Professor of Visual Arts and Research Fellow at the Constance Howard Resource and Research Centre in Textiles at Goldsmiths, University of London, UK. Diana Wood Conroy is Emeritus Professor of Visual Arts at the University of Wollongong, Australia. Hazel Clark is Professor of Design Studies and Fashion Studies, and Research Chair of Fashion at the Parsons School of Design, The New School, New York, USA.

Key Titles Cultural Threads Transnational Textiles Today Edited by Jessica Hemmings

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What happens when textiles cross international borders? Cultural Threads explores the impact of postcolonial culture on contemporary textile artists and designers from around the globe. Jessica Hemmings is Professor of Visual Culture and Head of the Faculty of Visual Culture at the National College of Art & Design in Dublin, Ireland.

2014 256 pages 210 colour illus 276 x 219mm / 10.7 x 8.6 inches PB 9781472530936 £29.99 / $49.95 Bloomsbury Academic


Reference

A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion 6 Volume Set Edited by Susan Vincent

This ground-breaking, six-volume work is the first comprehensive survey of the history of dress and fashion. Written by top international scholars and beautifully illustrated with 600 images, it is essential reading for students and researchers. A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion presents an authoritative survey from ancient times to the present. This set of six volumes covers over 2,500 years of dress and fashion. Each volume discusses the same key themes in its chapters:

UK October 2016 US November 2016 1,728 pages 9781472557490 £350.00 / $550.00 Series: The Cultural Histories Series Bloomsbury Academic

1. Textiles 2. Production and Distribution 3. The Body 4. Belief 5. Gender and Sexuality 6. Status 7. Ethnicity 8. Visual Representations 9. Literary Representations Readers can either have a broad overview of a period by reading a volume or follow a theme through history by reading the relevant chapter in each volume. Superbly illustrated, the full six volume set combines to present the most authoritative and comprehensive survey available on dress and fashion through history. Susan Vincent is Honorary Visiting Fellow at the University of York, UK.

Contents Volume 1: Antiquity (500BC-800AD), edited by Mary Harlow Volume 2: The Medieval Age (800-1450), edited by Sarah-Grace Heller Volume 3: The Renaissance (14501650), edited by Elizabeth Currie

Volume 4: The Age of Enlightenment (1650-1800), edited by Peter McNeil Volume 5: The Age of Empire (18001920), edited by Denise Amy Baxter Volume 6: The Modern Age (19202000+), edited by Alexandra Palmer

Key Titles Winner of the Art Association of Australia and New Zealand prize for Best Edited Book, 2010

Fashion Critical and Primary Sources

“This excellent, accessible introduction to many of the most important trends in modern fashion studies will serve as an invaluable research tool for students just starting in the field.” R.A. Standish, CHOICE Magazine

Edited by Peter McNeil

Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources is a major multi-volume work of reference which brings together seminal writings on fashion. The geographical range of the essays crosses Europe, Asia and North America.

2009 1632 pages 244 x 172mm / 9.6 x 6.8 inches 9781847882929 £550.00 / $1,095.00 World English Berg Publishers

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Reference

Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood

The Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World charts the history of embroidery from Ancient Egypt to the present day and offers an authoritative guide to all the major embroidery traditions of the region. It maps the diversity of embroidery from the Maghreb to the Gulf states, from Turkey to Sudan, and traces the impact of trade, commerce, politics and religion on materials, colours, styles and fashions.

UK April 2015 US June 2015 688 pages 750 colour and 100 bw illus 280 x 210mm / 11 x 8.3 inches HB 9780857853974 £150.00 / $240.00 Bloomsbury Academic

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood is Director of the Textile Research Centre, Leiden, The Netherlands. Features • The first comprehensive reference work on this subject in any language (including Arabic) • Generously illustrated with 830 images, patterns and diagrams, many never previously published or on public view • Provides detailed coverage of the embroiders, their materials and techniques, and embroidery’s development over time, up to and including its use by modern fashion designers from the region

Contents Preface Timeline Part I: General Information • Introduction • The Embroiderers • Foreign Influences and Sources • Materials and Equipment • Hand and Machine Embroidery Techniques • Designs and Colours Part II: Archaeological and Historical Embroideries • Embroideries from the Tomb of Tutankhamun • Late Classical and Early Medieval Embroideries from Egypt and Nubia • Early Embroideries from Palestine, Syria and Iraq • Coptic, Byzantine and Arab Sicilian Embroideries • Medieval Embroideries from Egyptian Archaeological Sites • Medieval Embroideries from Qasr Ibrim, Egyptian Nubia • Medieval Embroideries from the Qadisha Valley, Lebanon • Medieval Styles of Embroidery from Egypt and the Eastern Mediterranean

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• Embroidered Tiraz • The Kiswah • Egyptian Applique and the Street of the Tent Makers • Ottoman Turkish Embroidery Part III: Regional Embroidery • Snapshot: The Maghreb • Embroidery from Morocco • Snapshot: The Jewish Kiswa El-kabir • Embroidery from Algeria • Embroidery from Tunisia • Embroidery from Libya • Snapshot: Tuareg Embroidery • Embroidery from Egypt • Embroidery from the Negev and Sinai • Snapshot: Abas and bishts • Ecclesiastical Embroidery from the Eastern • Samaritan and Jewish Ritual Embroidery • An Introduction to Palestinian Embroidery • Palestinian Embroidery and Clothing

• Embroidery from Lebanon • Embroidery from Jordan • Embroidery from Syria • Embroidery from Iraq • Embroidery from Saudi Arabia • Snapshot: Saudi Arabian Fashion Designer Adnan Akbar • Snapshot: Saudi Arabian Fashion Designer Yahya al-Bishri • Embroidery from Sudan • Embroidery from Yemen • Snapshot: Naeksha Harazi: The Hand Embroidery Company of Al Hajjarah, Yemen • Snapshot: Zarrie Work from India • Embroidery from Oman • Embroidery from the Gulf States • Snapshot: Colonel and Mrs Dickson’s Embroidered Garments Part IV: Resources • Stitch Appendix • Glossary of Terms and Historic Writers’ Names • Bibliography • Index


Fashion and Costume History

2nd Edition

Costume Since 1945 Historical Dress from Couture to Street Style Deirdre Clancy

“A really useful and informative survey of how fashions change – beautifully illustrated by one of our greatest costume designers.” Gregory Doran, Artistic Director at the Royal Shakespeare Company, UK “Deirdre Clancy has written the essential reference book on fashion and clothing design since WWII. The written text is direct and insightful and her painted illustrations are a master class on how to render fabric and clothing.” Ralph Funicello, award-winning set designer and Don Powell Chair in Set Design at San Diego State University, USA

October 2015 288 pages 140 colour illus 246 x 189mm / 9.7 x 7.4 inches PB 9781472524249 £19.99 / $29.95 HB 9781472539403 £65.00 / $112.00 Bloomsbury Academic

Completely expanded and revised, this new edition provides a highly illustrated, lively and accessible overview of dress from 1945 to the present day. Deirdre Clancy is a multi-award-winning costume designer who has worked on over 150 theatre, opera and ballet productions around the world. Her achievements include a BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design and two Olivier Awards for Best Costume Design.

Ingrid Mida and Alexandra Kim

“This is the book we have been waiting for without realizing it! The Dress Detective offers a rigorous and entirely accessible guide to examining and thinking about dress using objects as evidence.” Amy de la Haye, Joint Director of the Centre for Fashion Curation, London College of Fashion, UK The ultimate resource for object-based research and analysis in fashion, The Dress Detective provides readers with the tools to uncover the hidden stories in garments with a carefully developed research methodology specific to dress. Beautifully illustrated, the book includes seven case studies of fashionable Western garments that explain how to put theory into practice. Featuring checklists and tips to guide the reader, it will give any budding fashion historian, curator or researcher the knowledge and confidence to analyse fashion effectively.

November 2015 224 pages 150 colour illus 246 x 189mm / 9.7 x 7.4 inches PB 9781472573971 £24.99 / $39.95 HB 9781472573988 £75.00 / $128.00 Bloomsbury Academic

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Ingrid Mida is a dress historian and curator.

Figure 11.3. Case Study of a Ruby Red Velvet Jacket by Christian Dior, New York

Dior jacket back. Photo by Ingrid Mida.

Alexandra Kim is a dress historian and museum professional.

Figure 11.4.

Figure 11.6.

Peplum. Photo by Ingrid Mida.

Underarm gusset. Photo by Ingrid Mida.

Figure 11.5.

Figure 11.7.

Cuff. Photo by Ingrid Mida.

Peaked pocket. Photo by Ingrid Mida.

oBServatIon Construction.

Chapter 11

The Dress Detective A Practical Guide to Object-Based Research in Fashion

the fitted velvet jacket has a rounded shoulder line, nipped-in waist, pleated peplum, and three-quarter length sleeves (Figure 11.2). the straight center opening with a small standing collar is notched at the collarbone. the front panels of the jacket are constructed from single pieces of fabric, folded to create pockets at the upper bustline, and shaped with darts to create a peplum effect to the lower edge, with no front waist seam. the back bodice section is pleated at the waist to form a slight blouson effect (Figure 11.3), and has a separate piece of fabric to create a pleated peplum, with deep vents at either side (Figure 11.4). the sleeves are cut as one with the bodice sections, and have a deep cuff of self-fabric (4¼ inches or 10.8 cm), gathered and stitched in place on the outer edge (Figure 11.5). the seams for the sleeves are under the arm, with additional triangular underarm gussets (Figure 11.6). the inset pockets, placed at an angle with asymmetrical fold-over flaps, one on the upper breast of each front panel, serve as a decorative detail (Figure 11.7). While these pockets could be functional, their high positioning on the front of the jacket, and the way in which they form part of the jacket’s construction, suggest that they were never intended for actual use.

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Fashion and Costume History

Dress History New Directions in Theory and Practice Edited by Charlotte Nicklas and Annebella Pollen

“This important collection breaks through familiar boundaries of writings on dress – in terms of time and place and with an admirable diversity of approach. Focused studies offer insights on topics that, thanks to their specificity, paradoxically enlarge the sphere of knowledge of dress.” Nancy B. Deihl, New York University, USA This in-depth investigation examines the expanding borders of dress history today, outlining key debates and showcasing the most exciting research. With international case studies from a wide range of scholars, the volume encompasses work from a variety of historical periods, from the late 18th century to the present day. Thematically structured, contributors examine, critique and expand the methodologies and sources used in fashion history, analyze how dress is collected, displayed and sold, and investigate clothing’s meanings and uses in the practice of identity. The book offers students and scholars a fresh appraisal of dress history in the 21st century.

October 2015 240 pages 30 bw and 24 colour illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches PB 9780857856401 £19.99 / $29.95 HB 9780857855411 £65.00 / $110.00 Bloomsbury Academic

Charlotte Nicklas is Senior Lecturer in History of Art and Design at the University of Brighton, UK. Annebella Pollen is Principal Lecturer in History of Art and Design and Director of Historical and Critical Studies at the University of Brighton, UK.

Key Titles 6th Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Survey of Historic Costume Phyllis G. Tortora and Sara B. Marcketti

Now celebrating its 25th anniversary as a bestselling textbook for the study of fashion history, Survey of Historic Costume is an introduction to Euro-American dress from the ancient world through the twenty-first century. • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide, Test Bank, Image Bank and PowerPoint presentations available

Included in Survey of Historic Costume STUDIO • Self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips • Flashcards of terms and definitions and image identification • Videos that bring historic costume topics and concepts to life • A comprehensive timeline spanning the Ancient World to present day including key moments in fashion and textiles, politics and conflicts, decorative and fine arts, economics and trade, technology, and religion, plus the evolution of silhouettes over time • World maps showing the Ancient World and the Modern World • Survey of Historic Costume Student Study Guide eBook including chapter objectives, key terms, historic overviews, chapter summaries, chapter quizzes, image analysis exercises, garment analysis worksheets, glossary of key terms, and a fashion garment guide (print book sold separately available with ISBN 9781628922349) • Fashion Designer Index, an alphabetized list of key designers with brief bios • Links to fashion museums, costume collections and online resources

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www/Textbook 2015 720 pages 1,200 colour illus 280 x 215mm / 11 x 8.5 inches Book + STUDIO bundle 9781501395253 £86.00 / $140.00 STUDIO Access Card 9781501395017 Fairchild Books


Key Titles

Fashion and Costume History

www/Textbook

6th Edition / www.bloomsburyfashioncentral.com

Who’s Who in Fashion

Features more than 300 profiles of fashion legends as well as newcomers and nonconformists — past and present — who make up the rich tapestry of the fashion industry.

Holly Price Alford and Anne Stegemeyer

• Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide, Test Bank and PowerPoint presentations available Holly Price Alford is an Associate Professor in the Department of Fashion Design and Merchandising and Director of Diversity for the School of the Arts at Virginia Commonwealth University, USA.

UK November 2014 US September 2014 544 pages 888 colour illus 216 x 279mm / 8.5 x 11 inches PB 9781609019693 £59.99 / $105.00 Fairchild Books

Anne Stegemeyer is a freelance writer and fashion specialist based in New York City, USA. New to this edition • Over 400 new images and 70 new profiles (382 profiles in total), including Joseph Altuzarra, Garance Doré, Riccardo Tisci, The Row (Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen), Carine Roitfeld, Prabal Gurung, and more

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

son-in-law Alex Bolen is chief executive officer, his stepdaughter Eliza Bolen is creative director, and his son Moises de la Renta works in the design studio. De la Renta’s clothes have been worn by U.S. first ladies from Jacqueline Kennedy to Hillary Clinton and Laura Bush. His clothes have also been worn by celebrities such as Gisele Bündchen and Anne Hathaway. In an unprecedented move, in 2013 Oscar de la Renta showed its fall 2013 collection exclusively on Instagram.

BORN Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic,

• Alphabetical tabs for easy access and pronunciation guides

July 22, 1932 AWARDS Coty American Fashion Critics’ Awards

Winnie, 1967; Return Award, 1968; Hall of Fame, 1973 • Neiman Marcus Award, 1968 • Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Women’s Wear Designer of the Year, 2000; Founders Award, 2013

• Updated timeline and awards listing, now including the British Fashion Awards

Oscar de la Renta is known for sexy, extravagantly romantic evening clothes in opulent materials. His daytime clothes, sometimes overshadowed by his more spectacular

• Expanded coverage to include more non-designers with category icons designating fashion designers, accessory designers, jewelry designers, fashion companies, makeup artists, costume designers, illustrators, photographers, writers, editors, journalists, and creative directors

Designer Oscar de la Renta (right) and model. Dress, 2004.

evening designs, have a European flavor—sophisticated, feminine, and eminently wearable. Educated in Santo Domingo and Madrid, de la Renta remained in Madrid after graduation to study art, intending to become a painter. His fashion career began when sketches he made for his own amusement were seen by the wife of the American ambassador to Spain, who asked him to design a gown for her daughter’s debut. His first professional job was with Balenciaga’s Madrid couture house, Eisa. In 1961 he went to Paris as an assistant to Antonio de Castillo at Lanvin-Castillo, and in 1963 went with Castillo to New York to design at Elizabeth Arden. He joined Jane Derby in 1965 and was soon operating as Oscar de la Renta, Ltd.,

A signature perfume introduced in 1977 has been enormously successful. A second fragrance, Ruffles, appeared in 1983. De la Renta has also done boutique lines, bathing suits, wedding dresses, furs, jewelry, bed linens, and loungewear. In 1992 he took over the design of Balmain couture, remaining until his retirement in 2002. He continues to design his own New York collection. De la Renta is considered the poster child of the Dominican Republic. In 1982, he built La Casa de Niño, an orphanage and school for children of La Romana. Over 1,200 kids occupy the orphanage each year. Today, de la Renta represents a home line, eyewear, and bridal wear collection. Though his family now runs the business, de la Renta remains at the helm. His

producing luxury ready-to-wear.

Spring 2014.

Fall 2009.

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2nd Edition

A Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries From Catwalk to Sidewalk Bonnie English

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Textbook “English has created a very respectable academic treatment of the last century of fashion... What is most notable about the content of this volume is the way English handles her broad topic; there are some powerful fashion images in this book, but this is no pretty coffee table accessory. English selects unique subjects within fashion for each chapter and zeroes in to prevent a deluge of meaningless and broad historical summaries.” WORN Fashion Journal

2013 280 pages 61 bw and 32 colour illus 244 x 169mm / 9.6 x 6.7 inches PB 9780857851352 £16.99 / $29.95 Bloomsbury Academic

“This edition has encompassed all the intricacies of the fashion world and refreshingly included insight into the ‘business’ of the industry. A valuable tool for opening up the fashion world to students, and a one-stop read that will be entertaining for ‘fashionistas’ who are keen to learn more about the mysteries of fashion.” Kay McMahon, Queensland University of Technology, Australia

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The Dress and Fashion Research Series

Series Editor: Joanne Eicher The Dress and Fashion Research series is an outlet for high-quality, in-depth scholarly research on previously overlooked topics and new approaches. Showcasing work on fashion and dress, each book in this interdisciplinary series focuses on a specific theme or area of the world that has been hitherto under-researched, instigating new debates and bringing new information and analysis to the fore. Winner of the 2014 Ray and Pat Browne Award for Best Edited Collection for the Pop Culture Association / American Writers Association

Fashioning Memory Vintage Style and Youth Culture Heike Jenss

“Fashioning Memory is the most in-depth, theoretically nuanced, and historically and ethnographically-informed work I have seen in fashion studies on concepts of time, memory, vintage, ‘retro,’ and authenticity. Jenss is pushing these concepts forward within an insightful framework that will have a strong impact for years to come.” Susan B. Kaiser, Interim Dean of Humanities, Arts and Cultural Studies, and Professor of Women and Gender Studies and Textiles and Clothing at the University of California, Davis, USA

October 2015 192 pages 23 bw illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches HB 9781472573964 £65.00 / $112.00 Series: Dress and Fashion Research Bloomsbury Academic

Fashioning Memory is a ground-breaking exploration of the everyday dress practices of young people and their experiences of the nostalgic qualities of fashion, questioning how style is remembered, performed, transformed and reinvested across time, place and generation. Based on in-depth ethnographic research into the sartorial experiences of young sixties enthusiasts in Germany who are relocating British mod style into the 21st century, this book illuminates the sartorial and bodily engagement with memory and time and its meanings for contemporary wearers. Heike Jenss is Assistant Professor for Fashion Studies, School of Art and Design History, Parsons The New School for Design, New York, USA.

Key Titles New in Paperback

Advertising Menswear Masculinity and Fashion in the British Media since 1945

Moroccan Fashion Design, Tradition and Modernity

Paul Jobling

2014

2015

160 pages 16 bw illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches HB 9781472524676 £65.00 / $112.00 Series: Dress and Fashion Research Bloomsbury Academic

272 pages 50 bw illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches PB 9781474254465 £19.99 / $29.95 HB 9781472533432 £65.00 / $112.00 Series: Dress and Fashion Research Bloomsbury Academic

54

M. Angela Jansen


Fashion, Culture and Society

The Birth of Cool Style Narratives of the African Diaspora Carol Tulloch

Focusing on counter- and sub-cultural contexts, this book investigates the role of dress in the creation and assertion of black identity in the United States, Jamaica, and the United Kingdom. Featuring a range of case studies, from hip hop style to Jamaican home dressing, it is a powerful exploration of how dress both initiates and confirms change. Carol Tulloch is Senior Research Fellow, Chelsea College of Art and Design, University of the Arts, London, UK.

March 2016 272 pages 45 bw and 9 colour illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches PB 9781859734704 £19.99 / $34.95 HB 9781859734650 £55.00 / $94.00 Bloomsbury Academic

Key Titles 4th Edition

The Visible Self Global Perspectives on Dress, Culture and Society

www/Textbook This anthropological investigation of dress, featuring 15 selected scholarly readings, is ideal for courses focused on global perspectives and cultural aspects of dress. • Teaching Resources: Instructor’s Guide with Test Bank and PowerPoint presentations including fullcolour versions of images from the book available

UK October 2014 US August 2014 400 pages 200 bw illus 216 x 279mm / 8.5 x 11 inches PB 9781609018702 £70.00 / $115.00 Fairchild Books

Joanne Eicher and Sandra Lee Evenson

New to this edition • Covers social media, social responsibility, eco-fashion, subcultures and current trends such as cosplay • Includes readings and examples on Latin America, Asia, and the Middle East as well as contemporary examples of social and political movements, the impact of the Internet and globalization • Newly organized Part III uses John Bodley's revised analysis of sociocultural systems to relate to dress and fashion across the world • A new reading by John Vollmer on the Qing Dynasty of China • Revised and expanded art program, including 65 new photographs

55


Dress, Body, Culture

Series Editor: Joanne Eicher This provocative and established series seeks to articulate the connections between culture and dress, defined here in its broadest possible sense as any modification or supplement to the body. The series highlights the often interdisciplinary dialogue between identity and dress, cosmetics, coiffure and body alterations. Volumes are grounded in a wide range of disciplines including anthropology, sociology, art history and cultural studies.

Street Style An Ethnography of Fashion Blogging Brent Luvaas

This cutting-edge book documents the evolution of street style photography from the fieldwork photos of early anthropology to the glamorized snapshots on blogs today, and explores the structural shifts in the global fashion industry that street style has helped bring about. Chronicling author and anthropologist Brent Luvaas’ experience of blogging through vivid street imagery and rich ethnographic detail, he shows that bloggers blur the distinction between professional and amateur, insider and outsider, self and brand. This book documents that blur from the ground level—from the streets of Philadelphia to the sidewalks of New York Fashion Week.

April 2016 336 pages 148 colour illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches PB 9780857855756 £19.99 / $29.95 HB 9780857857217 £65.00 / $112.00 Series: Dress, Body, Culture Bloomsbury Academic

Brent Luvaas is Associate Professor of Anthropology at Drexel University, USA. Contents Introduction: Anthropology, Street Style 1. On “The Street”: A Conceptual History of Street Style Photography 2. Traveling the Street Style Blogosphere: Amateur Anthropology from Around the Globe 3. Style Radar: On Becoming a Street Style Blogger and Knowing Whom to Shoot 4. The Subject(s) of Street Style: Street Portraits as Fashion Singularities

Sneakers Fashion, Gender and Subculture Yuniya Kawamura

5. The Business of Blogging: Free Labor, Freelancing, and Free Stuff 6. Scene from the Sidewalk: Shooting Street Style at New York Fashion Week 7. Conclusion: Straight Up, Redux Bibliography Index

Sneakers is the first academic study of the obsessions and idiosyncrasies surrounding the sneaker phenomenon in America, from competitive subcultures to sneaker painting and artwork. How have sneakers come to gain this status? In what ways are sneaker subcultures bound up with gender identity? Based on the author’s own ethnographic fieldwork in New York, and case studies on major manufacturers, this book traces sneakers’ transformation from sportswear to fashion symbol. Yuniya Kawamura is Associate Professor of Sociology at the Fashion Institute of Technology, State University of New York, USA.

56

January 2016 176 pages 40 colour illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches PB 9780857857330 £19.99 / $29.95 HB 9780857857224 £65.00 / $120.00 Series: Dress, Body, Culture Bloomsbury Academic


Dress, Body, Culture

Fashion Studies Research Methods, Sites and Practices Edited by Heike Jenss

Exploring practical research experiences of international scholars, Fashion Studies explains how research methodologies have been applied individually, or mixed and matched, resulting in unique and rich perspectives. Case studies provide fascinating insights into the integration of quantitative and qualitative methods, object and image based research, and the need for bridging of theory and practice. Covering diverse topics such as Martin Margiela’s unorthodox archival methods, ethnographic research in street style blogging, and a material culture analysis of wearing jeans, Fashion Studies presents complex approaches in a lively manner.

January 2016 256 pages 19 bw illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches PB 9781472583161 £19.99 / $29.95 HB 9781472583178 £65.00 / $112.00 Series: Dress, Body, Culture Bloomsbury Academic

Heike Jenss is Assistant Professor for Fashion Studies, School of Art and Design History, Parsons The New School for Design, New York, USA.

Fashion’s Double Representations of Fashion in Painting, Photography and Film

Fashion’s Double examines how meanings are projected onto garments through their representation, whether in painting, photography, cinema or online fashion film, conveying identity and status, eliciting fascination and desire. With in-depth case studies including the work of Nick Knight and Helmut Newton, film examples such as The Hunger Games, music video Girl Panic by Duran Duran, the book analyses the interrelationship between clothing, identity, embodiment and self-representation.

Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas

Adam Geczy is an artist, writer and teaches at Sydney College of the Arts, the University of Sydney, Australia.

December 2015 192 pages 17 bw illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches PB 9780857857118 £19.99 / $29.95 HB 9780857856340 £65.00 / $120.00 Series: Dress, Body, Culture Bloomsbury Academic

Vicki Karaminas is Professor of Fashion and Deputy Director of Doctoral Research at the College of Creative Arts, Massey University, New Zealand.

57


Dress, Body, Culture

Textbook

The Trendmakers Behind the Scenes of the Global Fashion Industry Jenny Lantz

This book explores the social significance of trends in the global fashion industry through interviews with key players in fashion, from designers and buyers to analysts and journalists, offering new insights into their influential roles in the shaping of trends. Containing exclusive interviews with creative directors from high street stores like H&M to designer brands such as Erdem, trend forecasters at WGSN and UK fashion journalists, Lantz offers an international understanding of the trend landscape, engaging with industry professionals from fashion capitals like London, Paris and New York, as well as BRIC countries and the new, emerging fashion nations.

June 2016 256 pages 15 bw illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches PB 9781474259781 £19.99 / $29.95 HB 9781474259798 £65.00 / $112.00 World All Languages (excluding Sweden) Series: Dress, Body, Culture Bloomsbury Academic

Jenny Lantz is a researcher at the Center for Arts, Business and Culture at the Stockholm School of Economics, Sweden, and a Program Director of an Executive MBA at the same school. Contents Preface 1. Introduction 2. Trend Forecasters: The Fashion Field’s Insurance Companies 3. Trend Forecasters: Backstage Legitimacy 4. Tastemakers: Chasing the Incipient Taste 5. Gender and Trends: On Variability 6. Designers, Brands and Trends: Making a Mark

The Superhero Costume Identity and Disguise in Fact and Fiction Barbara Brownie and Danny Graydon

7. Financialization and Trends: Trends as Fashion Risks 8. The BRIC Countries and Trends 9. Conclusion Acknowledgements Appendix: Reflections on Method and Contributions Bibliography Index

This book provides the first interdisciplinary analysis of the superhero costume and investigates wide-ranging issues such as identity, otherness, ritual dress and disguise. Analysis focuses on the implications of wearing superhero costume, exploring interpretations and definitions of the costumed hero. Using examples across comic books, film, and television, with case studies including The X-Men, Watchmen, real-life superheroes such as Pussy Riot and audience activities such as cosplay, The Superhero Costume presents new perspectives on this increasingly popular genre throughout history. Barbara Brownie is a Senior Lecturer in Visual Communication at the University of Hertfordshire, UK. Danny Graydon is a Contextual Studies Lecturer at The School of Creative Arts at the University of Hertfordshire, UK.

58

November 2015 192 pages 15 bw illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches PB 9781472595904 £19.99 / $29.95 HB 9781472595911 £65.00 / $112.00 Series: Dress, Body, Culture Bloomsbury Academic


World Dress and Anthropology

Luxury Indian Fashion A Social Critique Tereza Kuldova

This ethnographic investigation examines the role that fashion plays in the production of the contemporary Indian luxury aesthetic. Tracking luxury Indian fashion from its production in village craft workshops via upmarket design studios to fashion soirées, Kuldova investigates the Indian luxury fashion market’s dependence on the production of thousands of artisans all over India, revealing a complex system of hierarchies and exploitation. From the cultivation of erotic capital in businesswomen’s dress to a discussion of masculinity and muscular neo-royals to staged designer funerals, Luxury Indian Fashion analyzes the production, consumption and aesthetics of luxury and power in India.

March 2016 224 pages 30 bw illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches HB 9781474220927 £65.00 / $112.00 Series: Materializing Culture Bloomsbury Academic

Tereza Kuldova is Post-Doctoral Fellow at the Museum of Cultural History, University of Oslo, Norway.

African Lace Bark in the Caribbean The Construction of Race, Class and Gender Steeve O. Buckridge

The creation of lace-bark cloth from the lagetta tree was a practice that enabled African slave women to fashion their own clothing and nurture tradition in the Caribbean diaspora. This pioneering study explores the history of Caribbean bark cloth and slave women from the 1660s to the 1920s, and in particular explores the relationship between bark cloth production and identity amongst slave women. Covering how the industry developed, the types of clothes made, the people who wore them, and the social roles played by bark cloth production, it explores the dynamics of race, class and gender in Caribbean material culture.

June 2016 192 pages 40 black and white images 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches HB 9781472569301 £65.00 / $112.00 Bloomsbury Academic

Steeve O. Buckridge is Director of Area Studies programs and Professor of African and Caribbean History at Grand Valley State University, Michigan, USA.

Key Titles Japanese Fashion Cultures Dress and Gender in Contemporary Japan Masafumi Monden

“Masafumi Monden’s fascinating and important book, Japanese Fashion Cultures, will be of great interest to everyone interested in fashion, gender, globalization, and youth culture. His research on young Japanese men and their attitudes towards fashion is especially significant, as it calls into question persistent stereotypes about how men and women are assumed to engage with fashion.” Valerie Steele, Director and Chief Curator, The Museum at FIT, New York City, USA

2014 216 pages 15 bw illus 234 x 156mm / 9.2 x 6.1 inches PB 9781472532800 £19.99 / $29.95 HB 9781472536211 £65.00 / $112.00 Series: Dress, Body, Culture Bloomsbury Academic

Through cutting-edge analysis of contemporary style tribes, Japanese Fashion Cultures challenges widely held notions of gender relations and European style imitation in Japan. Masafumi Monden is Research Associate at the University of Technology, Sydney, Australia.

59


These Fairchild Books titles come with STUDIOs, which are specially developed to complement our best-selling textbooks with web-based ancillaries that students can adapt to their learning styles. When ordering, instructors should use the book + STUDIO bundle ISBN listed here to ensure that their students receive these resources for free with purchase. Interested in learning more or receiving First Day of Class materials? Email your account manager, listed below. Title Edition Author Bundle ISBN Catalog Page Apparel Quality* - Janace E. Bubonia 9781501395338 33 Brand Management Strategies - William D. Arienzo 9781501318436 18 CAD for Fashion Design and Merchandising* - Stacy Stewart Smith 9781501395345 35 Careers! - V. Ann Paulins and Julie L. Hillery 9781501395413 11 Complete Guide to Size Specification* 2 Paula J. Myers-McDevitt 9781501395437 28 Concepts of Pattern Grading* 3 Kathy K. Mullet 9781501312823 37 Dynamics of Fashion, The* 2 Elaine Stone 9781501395543 11 Entrepreneurship in Action* - Rosalie J. Regni and Jimmie G. Anderson 9781501395444 11 Ethics in the Fashion Industry* - V. Ann Paulins and Julie L. Hillery 9781501395420 13 Fashion Entrepreneurship* 2 Michele M. Granger and Tina M. Sterling 9781501395451 11 Fashion Forecasting* 4 Evelyn L. Brannon and Lorynn Divita 9781501313189 16 Fashion Sketchbook* 6 Bina Abling 9781501395352 32 Fitting and Pattern Alteration 3 Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasb, 9781501318207 38 and Della Pottberg-Steineckert Going Global 3 Grace I. Kunz, Elena Karpova, and Myrna B. Garner 9781501318344 23 Guide to Fashion Career Planning - V. Ann Paulins and Julie L. Hillery 9781501314711 10 Guide to Fashion Sewing, A* 6 Connie Amaden-Crawford 9781501395284 43 Guide to Producing a Fashion Show* 3 Judith C. Everette and Kristen K. Swanson 9781501395321 24 Illustrating Fashion 3 Steven Stipelman 9781501395475 32 In Fashion* 2 Elaine Stone 9781501309816 11 J.J. Pizzuto’s Fabric Science 11 Ingrid Johnoson, Allen C. Cohen and Ajoy K. Sarkar 9781501395369 44 J.J. Pizzuto’s Fabric Science Swatch Kit 11 Ingrid Johnoson, Allen C. Cohen and Ajoy K. Sarkar 9781501316517 45 Mathematics for Retail Buying 8 Bette K. Tepper and Marla Greene 9781501315725 22 Mathematics for Retail Buying* 7 Bette K. Tepper and Marla Greene 9781501395314 22 Merchandise Planning Workbook* 2 Rosetta La Fleur 9781501395567 24 Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics - Julie Cole 9781501318245 40 Perry’s Department Store* 4 Karen M. Videtic and Cynthia W. Steele 9781501395307 24 Practical Approach to Merchandising Mathematics* Revised 1st Linda M. Kushman 9781501395406 22 Retail Buying* 5 Richard Clotfelter 9781501395260 25 Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics - Sharon Czachor 9781501316494 41 Surface Design for Fabric* - Kimberly A. Irwin 9781501395277 47 Survey of Historic Costume* 6 Phyllis G. Tortora and Sara B. Marcketti 9781501395253 52 Sustainable Fashion* 2 Janet Hethorn and Connie Ulasewicz 9781501395383 15 Tailoring Techniques for Fashion* - Milva Fiorella Di Lorenzo 9781501309700 36 Technical Sourcebook for Designers* 2 Jaeil Lee and Camille Steen 9781501395376 35

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60

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Index

A

Creative Fashion Illustration 32

Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources 49

32

Cultural History of Dress and Fashion, A 49

Fashion’s Double 57

Advertising Menswear 54

Cultural History of Fashion in the 20th and 21st Centuries, A 53

Fashion’s Front Line 6

Abling, Bina

African Lace Bark in the Caribbean 59

Cultural Threads 48

Alford, Holly Price

53

Amaden-Crawford, Connie

43

Anderson, Fiona

48

Anderson, Jimmie G.

11

D

Antoine, Denis

36

D’Arienzo, William

Cushman, Linda M. Czachor, Sharon

22 41, 43

18

Apparel Quality 33

David, Alison Matthews

Apparel Quality Lab Manual 33

Designing 28

Art of Couture Sewing, The

42

Developing a Fashion Collection 26

Aspelund, Karl

28

Di Lorenzo, Milva Fiorella

36

Diamond, Ellen

25

Diamond, Jay

25

B Basics Fashion Design 01: Research and Design 29

5

Digital Textile Printing 47

Basics Fashion Design 07: Menswear 29

Divita, Lorynn R.

Bay, Stefani

Dress Detective, The 51

25

16

Birth of Cool, The 55

Dress History

52

Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of Design

Dunne, Lucy

28

4

Brand Management Strategies 18 Brand/Story 19 Brannon, Evelyn L.

16

Breward, Christopher

57

Brownie, Barbara

58

Dynamics of Fashion, The 11

55

Encyclopedia of Embroidery from the Arab World 50

Bubonia, Janace E.

33

English, Bonnie

Buckridge, Steeve O.

59

Entrepreneurship in Action 11

Cabrera, Roberto

36

CAD for Fashion Design and Merchandising 35 Carden, Susan

53

Essentials of Exporting and Importing 23

C

47

Careers! Professional Development for Retailing and Apparel Merchandising 11

Ethics in the Fashion Industry 13 Evenson, Sandra Lee Everett, Judith C.

55 21, 24

Fashion and Technology 46

11

Clancy, Deirdre

51

Fashion and Textile Design with Photoshop and Illustrator 34

Clark, Hazel

48

Fashion Designer’s Sketchbook, The

30

Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear 36

Fashion Entrepreneurship 11

Clodfelter, Richard

Fashion Forecasting 16

Cohen, Allen C.

44, 45

Fashion Industry and Its Careers, The

Cole, Julie

40, 43

Fashion Law 13

Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design 28

Fashion Pattern Cutting 39

Concepts of Pattern Grading 37 Conroy, Diana Wood Cope, Jon

48 20

Costume Since 1945 51

Fitting and Pattern Alteration 38 Functional Clothing Design 28 G Garner, Myrna B.

23

Geczy, Adam

57

Genova, Aneta

46

Gill, Penny

25

Going Global 23 Granger, Michele M. Graydon, Danny

11, 12 58

Guide to Fashion Career Planning 10 Guide to Fashion Entrepreneurship 11 Guide to Fashion Sewing, A 43 Guide to Producing a Fashion Show 24 Gwilt, Alison

15

Hancock, Joseph H.

19

Handbook of Textile Culture, The

48

Hayward, Maria

8

Hemmings, Jessica

48

Hethorn, Janet

15

Hillery, Julie L.

10, 11, 13

Hopkins, John

29

Hume, Robert

34

I Illustrating Fashion 32

F

Carr, Melissa G.

25

First Book of Fashion, The 8

H

E Eicher, Joanne B.

Fashioning Memory 54

12

Fashion Promotion in Practice 20 Fashion Retailing 25 Fashion Sketchbook 32 Fashion Studies 57

In Fashion 11 Irwin, Kimberly

47

J J.J. Pizzuto’s Fabric Science 44 J.J. Pizzuto’s Fabric Science Swatch Kit 45 Jansen, M. Angela

54

Japanese Fashion Cultures 59 Jefferies, Janis Jenss, Heike Jimenez, Guillermo C. Jobling, Paul Johnson, Ingrid

48 54, 57 13 54 44, 45

Fashion Victims 5

61


Index

K

P

Street Style 56

Karaminas, Vicki

57

Patternmaking for Menswear 39

Superhero Costume, The 58

Karpova, Elena

23

Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics 40

Surface Design for Fabric 47

Kawamura, Yuniya

56

Paulins, Ann V.

10, 11, 13

Survey of Historic Costume 52

Perry’s Department Store: A Buying Simulation 24

Survey of Historic Costume Student Study Guide 52

Petrizzi, Richard

25

Sustainable Fashion 15

Pollen, Annebella

52

Swanson, Kristen K.

Pottberg-Steineckert, Della

38

Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics 45

Key Concepts for the Fashion Industry 12 Kim, Alexandra

51

Kim, Injoo

39

Kim, Myoungok

39

Kolsun, Barbara

13

Kuldova, Tereza

59

Kunz, Grace I.

23

L LaFleur, Rosetta

24

Lantz, Jenny

58

Lee, Jaeil

35

Liechty, Elizabeth

38

Litt, Sheri

25

Luvaas, Brent

56

Luxury Indian Fashion 59 M

Practical Approach to Merchandising Mathematics, A 22 Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion, A 15 Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers 43 Promotion in the Merchandising Environment 21

Rath, Patricia Mink

T Tailoring Techniques for Fashion 36 Technical Sourcebook for Designers 35 Tepper, Bette K.

22

Textile Technology and Design 47 Textiles and Fashion 29

R Rasband, Judith

21, 24

38 23, 25

Tortora, Phyllis G.

52

Trendmakers, The 58

11

Tulloch, Carol

Reilly, Andrew

12

Tweed 48

Regni, Rosalie J.

55

Renfrew, Colin

26

Maloney, Dennis

20

U

Renfrew, Elinor

26

Marcketti, Sara B.

52

Udale, Jenny

29

Retail Buying 25

Ulasewicz, Connie

15

Margolin, Victor

4

Rissanen, Timo

14

Mathematics for Retail Buying 22

Rothman, Sharon

30

McInerney, Niall

Rublack, Ulinka

5

McKenzie, Stuart

32

McNeil, Peter

49

McQuillan, Holly

14

8

V Videtic, Karen

24

Vincent, Susan

49

S

Visible Self, The 55

Sample Workbook to Accompany Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers 43

Vogelsang-Eastwood, Gillian

Merchandise Planning Workbook 24

Sarkar, Ajoy K.

W

Mida, Ingrid

51

Schneiderman, Deborah

47

Watkins, Susan

Monden, Masafumi

59

Seivewright, Simon

29

Who’s Who in Fashion 53

Moriwaki, Katherine

46

Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics 41

Why of the Buy, The 25

Shoemack, Harvey

23

Winton, Alexa Griffith

35

World History of Design

Moroccan Fashion 54

44, 45

Mullet, Kathy K.

37

Smith, Stacy Stewart

Myers-McDevitt, Paula J.

28

Sneakers 56

Y

Steele, Cynthia W.

24

Young, Deborah Yusuf, Nilgin

N Newell Hopkins, Lisa

11

Steen, Camille

35

Nicklas, Charlotte

52

Stegemeyer, Anne

53

Nudelman, Zoya

42

Sterling, Tina M.

11

Stipelman, Steven

32

Stone, Elaine

11

62

50

28

47 4

45 6

Z Zaman, Zarida

39

Zero Waste Fashion Design 14


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Photography by Niall McInerney


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ISBN 9781474274500

9 781474 274500

Fashion and Textiles 2016 UK Catalog  

The latest Fashion and Textiles titles from Bloomsbury, featuring textbooks, coursebooks, reference and research works.

Fashion and Textiles 2016 UK Catalog  

The latest Fashion and Textiles titles from Bloomsbury, featuring textbooks, coursebooks, reference and research works.