FOREWORD TENA KOUTOU KATOA! PURE. CLEAR. UNADALTERATED. FLAWLESS. PLENARY. UNCLOUDED. AS A HUGE EL NINO WEATHER PATTERN ASCENDS OVER THE SOUTH PACIFIC FOR THE SUMMER, WE ARE SLIGHTLY SELFISHLY HOPING FOR A LOT OF PURE BLUE SKIES OVER NORTHERN AOTEAROA BETWEEN NOW AND MARCH. WE WANT CICADAS AND LITTLE PINK FLUFFY CLOUDS, THANK YOU VERY MUCH! IT’S BEEN A BIG YEAR FOR US HERE AT BLACK HQ, WITH MORE CHALLENGES THAN WE ARE USED TO AND, SO FAR, ALL HAVE BEEN OVERCOME! WE HAVE ALSO ESTABLISHED SOME STRONG NEW GLOBAL WORKING RELATIONSHIPS AND BROUGHT IN THE NEXT WAVE OF YOUNG CREATIVES, STARTING WITH OUR DESIGNER NINA VAN LIER WHO HAS ADDED ILLUSTRATIVE AND ART-BASED DESIGN TO THIS ISSUE AND THE PAST TWO THIS YEAR. NEXT YEAR WE WILL BE PUBLISHING 6 MAGAZINES: 2 X BLACK MAGAZINE PRINT ISSUES (25 AND 26), 2 X BLKONBLK DIGITAL ISSUES (6 AND 7) AND 2 X THE HAND OF FASHION MAGAZINES IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THE ITC ETHICAL FASHION INITIATIVE. WE WILL ALSO BE COMPLETELY REVAMPING OUR WEBSITE NEXT YEAR. MERRY XMAS AND BRING ON 2016! AROHA NUI, GRANT & RACHAEL X
EvEry cEnt from thE rEtail pricE of this lipstick and lipglass Excluding gst, goEs towards hElping womEn, mEn and childrEn living with and affEctEd by hiv/aids. maccosmEtics.co.nz/vg
CONTENTS BLACKLIST 28. The Queen is Sheba 32. Fine & Dandy ‘Peachy Keen’ 36. Grow Your Own 38. I, The Knitter 42. Dream Weaver BEAUTY 46. Damaged Glamour 54. Oh My Gosh FASHION 64. Why Compromise 82. Northside Gal 94. I Need A Situation 102. What Difference Does It Make 114. These Days 132. On Battleship Hill 142. The Last Living Rose 150. Walls and Doors 160. I Am My Own Name BLACK END 184. Dark Summer - The Black Math 194. Shooting Star - Soju Shots 206. North East Dreaming - Augustine
Photography: Superteam Studios at Vivien’s Creative, Melbourne Fashion Editors: Ribal Swang and Justin Henry Hair and Make-up: Justin Henry at Vivien’s Creative, Melbourne using O&M hair products and Chanel Cosmetics Model: Lise Olsen at IMG Models wears: top by MEAT
Publishers, Editors-in-Chief Grant Fell & Rachael Churchward email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org
Writers Grant Fell, Jessie English, Nina Van Lier, Sara Dunn, Rachael Churchward, Carlisle Cook Photographers Stephen Langmanis, Ribal & Gil - Superteam, Steven Popovich, Russ Flatt, Marissa Findlay, David K.Shields, Russell Kleyn, Nina Van Lier
Creative Director/Art Director Rachael Churchward
Fashion Editors Rachael Churchward, Sara Dunn, Sarah Birchley, Samara Wilson, Ella Murphy, Justin Henry, Ribal Swang, Thistle Brown, Liz Kavanagh, Zoey Radford Scott, Ethan Butler, Nicole Ku
Fashion & Beauty Director: Rachael Churchward Art Director/Illustrator/designer Nina Van Lier email@example.com NZ Hair Editor Greg Murrell @ Ryder Salon
Hair & Make-up Artists and Manicurists Justin Henry, Greg Murrell, Dale Delaporte, KieKie Stanners, Cat Smith, Chris Coonrod, Claire Thomson, Sharlene Cassidy, Natalee Fisher, Tommy Stayton, Sarah Tammer
Assistant Fashion Editor Ethan Butler
Retouching and Digital Julie Davies, Nina Van Lier, Ribal Swang
Australian Fashion Editor Sarah Birchley
Thanks to: Heta Hudson, Catriona Knapp, Zora Bell Boyd, Marcus Ringrose, Glenn Hunt, Karen Inderbitzen-Waller, Delphine Planqueel, Sherry Roberts, The Churchward and Fell ‘We-Can-Beat-Brian’ Armies, The Golden Dawn crew
UK Editor Sara Dunn
Black Magazine is published bi-annually by: BLK NZ LTD P.O.Box 68-259 Newton, Auckland, New Zealand Ph: + 64 9 817 9601
Australian Hair & Beauty Editor, Justin Henry @ Vivien's Creative, Melbourne Editor-at-large Paul Empson
Online Editor Grant Fell
www.blackmagazine.co.nz www.facebook.com/Blackmagnz www.twitter.com/blackmagazine www.vimeo.com/blackmagazine Instagram: @black_mag
Proof Reader Dylan Van Lier
Subscriptions managed by iSubscribe http://bit.ly/blacksubscribe
NY Fashion Editor Thistle Brown
Distribution in NZ and Australia by Gordon & Gotch Ltd International distribution by 8 Point Media
Advertising Grant Fell: +64 21 407 248 E: firstname.lastname@example.org
The views expressed in Black Magazine are not necessarily those of the publishers and editors. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any way without permission. Thank you. We do NOT accept unsolicited submissions. ISSN number: ISSN 1177-2603 © BLK NZ LTD, 2015
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THE QUEEN IS SHEBA Photography: David K Shields Fashion: Ella Murphy Hair & Make-up: Sarah Tammer at Vivien’s Creative using M.A.C Cosmetics and Kevin.Murphy Intro and interview: Grant Fell
MULTI-TALENTED SINGER AND PERFORMER SHEBA WILLIAM’S FAMILY STORY EXPLAINS MUCH ABOUT WHO SHE IS. HER PARENTS MET AT STANFORD UNIVERSITY WHERE THEY WERE BOTH FULLBRIGHT SCHOLARS. HER DAD WAS A BRILLIANT SCIENTIST, WHILST HER MONA, HER MUM WAS STUDYING COMMUNICATION - BUT MONA ALSO JUST HAPPENED TO BE A VERY, VERY GOOD DANCER. HER DAD SAW MONA DANCING AND THAT WAS THAT. THEY GOT MARRIED ON CAMPUS. MONA RODE A WHITE HORSE THROUGH THE ARCHES. HER MOTHER THEN WENT ON TO WORK IN TV AND RADIO IN SAN FRANCISCO, DURING THE 1960S - A TIME WHEN THAT CITY WAS ALMOST THE CENTRE OF THE UNIVERSE. SHE DEVISED AND STARRED IN AN EMMY-AWARD WINNING TV SHOW WHERE SHE SHOWCASED HER STORYTELLING TALENT. “LIKE THE MAORI,” SAYS SHEBA, “ BLACK PEOPLE HAVE A STRONG ORAL TRADITION, AND IT WAS THIS THAT WON HER AN EMMY AWARD”. SUCH IS SHEBA WILLIAM’S LIFEPATH. AND ALL OF THIS HAPPENED BEFORE THE FAMILY MOVED TO NEW ZEALAND. THEY SETTLED IN WELLINGTON BUT THAT WAS JUST HOME BASE. MONA IS THE AUTHOR OF 24 BOOKS AND HAS BEEN TOURING AOTEAROA FOR MANY YEARS AS A STORYTELLER. PERFORMING BOOK READINGS. SHE WOULD TAKE THE YOUNG SHEBA AND HER SISTER WITH HER MEANING THE SIBLINGS SAW A DIFFERENT NEW ZEALAND TO MOST. CURRENTLY BASED IN SYDNEY, SHEBA IS A SOUL SISTER THROUGH AND THROUGH... 28
Grant Fell: Where were you born and where do you live now? Where were you born and where do you live now? Sheba Williams: I was born in Wellington and live in Sydney. How long did you live in Wellington and tell us what it was like working and performing amongst that city’s awesome music scene. I lived in Wellington until High School when I spent a year at private school in Switzerland, and then returned for university and then between overseas stints I spent time there. I also lived in Auckland. I was there at a very exciting time musically. Everyone was young and beautiful and getting their 15 minutes of fame. I was lucky enough to work with Taj Mahals’ kids, I had a two girl crew called Afronesia with Deva Mahal who is now living in New York, and toured with her brother Imon Starr. When Nina Simone died we started the Jazz on a Sunday series, which ended up featuring artists such as Eartha Kitt and Grace Jones. And overseas there would always be random crossovers. I remember Brett Mc Kenzie (Flight of the Choncords) backing me on keys in a Berlin basement for a gig. When did you first start performing? What is your earliest musical memory? I started performing as a teenager. I used to go into the restaurants in Wellington and just blast out a tune acapella. Wellington was the perfect
starting point as it really values live music, so it felt like the streets were paved with gigs. You speak and sing in several languages - which languages and how did you learn them? I learned German at private school in Switzerland, and Mandarin from my time living in Shanghai and Taiwan. People don’t understand the beauty of that language. It is very musical. I have written some cheeky songs in Mandarin and people have a good chuckle. The Chinese have a great sense of humour. I studied French for The Josephine Baker Show. I went to Paris to research and and learned there that black is beautiful. I picked up some Japanese when I lived in Kyoto. Otherwise I am a bit of a magpie with languages. I always try to learn a little where ever I go, out of respect for the locals and to make a connection. Peoples eyes always light up when you thank them in their own tongue. I also have a song I wrote that features Te Reo called Paekakariki. I lived there for one summer. I composed and recorded a version of Pokarekare Ana set to moonlight sonata. I love those crossovers. Tell us about your book and one woman show ‘Shanghai Sheba and The China Monologues.’ I was lucky enough to have a residency in Shanghai in 2005. This was a very exciting time. China wasn’t even on the radar globally at the time. I used to sing six nights a week for up to four hours. Thats a lot of tunes. Then we would
go out and explore the wild nightlife. Most nights would end very late, then I would come home and write about all the surreal experiences until the sun came up and sleep until it was time to go to the club to sing. I was so lucky to have National Radio have me read it on air. It was an amazing experience, but I was glad to leave. You don’t appreciate how truly gorgeous New Zealand is until you’ve lived somewhere with no air, no sky, no grass, no beach. Who or what is your biggest influence? I think my mother is my biggest influence. She is an amazing singer, dancer, writer and storyteller. Way ahead of her time. She won an Emmy for her TV show back in the day, she is always turned out to the nines, full of positivity, a real go getter. Will we see you perfoming back in Aotearoa in 2016? I have just landed myself a booking agent in Auckland, so I am excited to come back and shimmy around. I would especially love to do some festivals. It’s just across the road. I love Aotearoa, the land, the people and the pies, and I always will. ShebasWorld.com
Opening page: Gold costume artist’s own, sunglasses by Karen Walker, earrings by Jessica Aggery. Opposite page: Sequined top artist’s own, pants by Raey.
Pants by Bec & Bridge, feather costume, artistâ€™s own Hair and Make-up Assist : Kate Wilcox
YOUNG WEST AUCKLAND CREATIVES XANTHE BROOKES, KARIN YAMASAKI AND KIZZIE AMOORE HAVE ALWAYS COLLABORATED CREATIVELY; INITIALLY WITH A PROJECT CALLED ‘PHANTOM MAG’ AND MORE RECENTLY WITH THEIR DOWLOADABLE PDF MAG AND TUMBLR SITE ‘PEACHY KEEN’. NINA VAN LIER FINDS OUT WHO DOES WHAT AND CAPTURES THE TRIO IN MOTION. Photograph and interview: Nina Van Lier Pictured left to right: Xanthe, Kizzie, Karin.
Nina Van Lier: How long have you known each other for? Karin: I’ve known Kizzie since we were in year 9 and I’ve known Xanthe since we were in year 10. Xanthe: Yeah I met Kizzie in intermediate when she played bass for our school concert band but we didn’t really click until high school and we became closer when she started playing roller derby with me. I think I messaged karin on facebook about her photography and since then our relationship has just developed and evolved I guess. Karin: yeah haha I remember having a wee stalk on Xanthe’s Facebook thinking, “Man I wanna be this girl’s friend” and “I’m glad we’re close now!” Kizzie: I’ve always admired Karin and Xanthe from afar and it’s pretty mind blowing to me that we’re all friends now, even after all of this time! Being friends with the coolest, most talented and creative girls I know feels like such a blessing. Xanthe: Aw kiz... You all grew up in Auckland’s leafy, creative Western suburbs, correct? Xanthe: Very much so haha, nothing is more home to me then good ol’ Titirangi. Karin: Yeah, I’ve been living in the same house my whole life as well, so its just become part of my life. Kizzie: Yeah totally, I moved to New Zealand when I was quite young and so I’ve pretty much always seen beautiful Titirangi as home. How long have you been collaborating together on creative projects? Did you do other thing together before Peachy Keen?
Xanthe: Originally we had a magazine called Phantom Mag which was quite successful because it was quite personal but it became very stressful and we had to put it to rest. Since then we have filled the hole with a slightly less personal, slightly less stressful medium Peachy Keen. Karin: I do a lot of other ‘creative’ things outside Peachy Keen but Phantom Mag was also definitely a way for me to personally talk about things and to stay connected with the friend group which was really nice. Kizzie: Yeah it’s been really cool to see how much we’ve changed since Phantom Mag, It’s been a lot of hard work but it’s so rewarding to have a creative and collaborative outlet to share our work on. Tell us about Peachy Keen, how would you describe it? Xanthe: I don’t know, It’s not really a self help mag like Rookie, Phantom Mag was quite like that though, it’s more a platform for young people to express ideas/show art, it’s a community thing. Karin: Yeah, I’d call it a way to get other young and talented creatives to create for a reason and to show it to an audience which they may not be able to reach. I know that being young and trying to do creative things is hard because of the condescending nature of the arts, so I guess it’s more of a way for young people to stay in the creative arts and have no limits and no one judging what they create and why they create. It’s a platform for more younger people to show what they can do and be like “Yo, look at us!” Who does what creatively and in a
production sense? Xanthe: Well we all write/contribute but for me I guess my contribution fluctuates depending on what’s happening in my life but i’m working on gaining more continuity. Karin does all the formatting and editing, she’s the real wizz. Karin: Aw bless, yeah I try to make time to format the thing but I’m not gonna lie, a lot of the time I do end up doing it the night before it needs to be posted. I do write sometimes but I usually don’t have the time to or else I just draw or make smaller things since I don’t like writing as much anymore. Kizzie: Karin is an organising powerhouse! I admire her so much for it, and Karin and Xanthe are both very good at kicking my ass into gear and getting my submissions together for the month. Xanthe is constantly making the coolest connections and providing fresh ideas to develop our mag further, I’m not quite sure what I do to be honest! Why did you choose Tumblr as the platform? Xanthe: Because a domain can cost money that we don’t have and it also kind of requires upkeep and maximum attention that I don’t know if we are ready to give Peachy Keen right now, hopefully this will change next year. Karin: Yeah for sure, I mean I’m meant to be updating the tumblr quite often, but it’s hard to figure out what we want to post on there as well. Kizzie: We’re hoping to move off of tumblr very soon! It worked better when we were Phantom Mag I think because it was a more blog-like platform. We’re currently sorting out
a solution that is better for our way of presenting the ‘zine. What are the advantages of using Tumblr? Xanthe: I guess it’s very easy to access and it’s quite a popular site which means whatever content we put out we know those representations are going to be seen, if that makes sense. Kizzie: It’s also quite simple to run as a shared blog as we’ve all had the experience of running our own tumblr sites. Where/how do you find the fabulous images you post? Karin: Usually they’re either photos which we have taken and collaborated with someone, like the ones from Go Jo’s Opshop and then there’ve also been submissions from friends of ours who feel like they have something to offer! It’s really cool that other people send them to us because it really shows that there are so many other creative young people around us! That makes me so happy to see that for sure. Kizzie: Yeah I totally agree with Karin! It’s so cool to see what the amazing people around us are doing and give them a platform to showcase their work. You are all into fashion, art and music. Who are (each of your) favourite fashion labels, artists and bands/musicians. Xanthe: Miu Miu, It’s me and you, Egon Schiele, Mark Ryden, Indi, Liam Finn, lots of local bands. Kizzie: Gucci’s resort 2016 is what dreams are made of, I’m also a huge fan of Meadham Kirchhoff and Lazy Oaf. My top bands/musicians are Miss
June, Courtney Barnett and Parquet Courts. There’s so many incredible local creatives out there and meeting them and seeing their work is so inspiring and motivating to me! Xanthe: OMG MEADHAM KIRCHOFF, also shout out to Tavi Gevinson, my idol. Karin: I kinda wear whatever there is, haha, not too much of your fashion queen really-whatever stuff my grandma has in her wardrobe I typically take... um my favourite artists have to be Vivian Maier, Stephen Shore, Andrew B Myers, Roseanne Liang (who I got to interview for Peachy Keen which was pretty sick) as well as a lot of other directors like Kubrick, Wes Anderson and Spike Jones following behind. Musician wise, probably Miss June as well for sure, a lot of our local bands like Courtney Hate, Yukon Era, all the peeps in the All Ages Gig scene. Outside of that, probably Arcade Fire, David Bowie, Taylor Swift, Joni Mitchell, FIDLAR and quite a few who I really can’t think of right now. You also offer Peachy Keen as a pdf download. Where can readers/ followers find that? Karin: Probably our Facebook would be the best place to find them all! I think all the links are working and still all good on our Facebook, it’s probably the easiest way to locate them too. What is Phantom Mag/Phantom Girls and tell us about the four spinoff mags? Karin: So Phantom Mag/Phantom Girls was basically the root creation of Peachy Keen. It was with us three as well as Anna Millard and Nancy Mitchelson. We created Phantom Girls
because we all read online magazines and were always inspired by them to be creative and write a lot. We got to a point Phantom Mag/Girls where we realised we all wanted to write our own things but still be a collective ‘zine which is why we created our mini ‘zines. They were a way for ourselves to express and write whatever we wanted and however we wanted as well. Do you think you would ever print a magazine or will you stay digital? Xanthe: We really want to put out a printed copy every once and a while of all the good stuff, I think that would be really successful as with this ever growing digital world, the yearn for tangible stuff becomes more omnipresent, it’s kind of wack. Kizzie: It would be so cool to participate in ‘zinefest one day! Lately we’ve been doing a lot of discussing about having physical copies and while we’re not there yet, it’s definitely a possibility for us in the future. Karin: Yeah, I mean I’d love to print them off and make them physical, but it’s more like how to do them and the costs and all the other bits and bobs behind it. A lot of other creative people I know make books as well so I’m personally hoping to get some help from them whether it is creating them or finding people who could help us out! Peachy Keen Facebook
Peachy Keen Instagram
GROW YOUR OWN! Photograph: Nina Van Lier Words: Grant Fell
Grow, grow, grow your own, gently on your deck, I taste better because I’m an organically-grown courgette. ‘Growth’ equals ‘Life’ on the deck here at BLACK HQ in Titirangi, Tamaki Makaurau, Aotearoa. Our deck, is pretty much a classic New Zealand deck, not big but big enought to spread a few planter boxes around. In less than a month, with its all day sun, the deck has proven to be a great organic food growing environment. Since I
was diagnosed with a glioblastima multiforme grade 4 brain tumour in March, I have had to embrace a ketogenic diet - very, very green in colour and 100% organic. The best way to ensure it is 100% organic is to grown your own so we bought 8 well priced wooden planters from Mitre 10, 12 bags of organic compost and potting mix and planted big families of Spinach, Cos lettuce, several types of tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, chillis and
herbs. All perfect for green juices, salads and spiralising! Of course, all gardens need feeding. Alongside water, this garden has been nutured with a couple of NZ gardening staples; sheep pellets and worm wees. One of the biggest bonuses of a deck garden is of course, its proximity to the kitchen! Our favourite, though, in terms of a ‘grow’ is Courgette, Zucchini or Summer Squash. What a beauty!
I, THE KNITTER
WE FIRST BECAME AWARE OF NICOLE LEYBOURNE SEVERAL YEARS AGO WHEN SHE WAS A MODEL AND LAUNCHED A PRINT MAGAZINE IN AUCKLAND, CALLED ‘PRINT’ AT A TIME WHEN MOST HER AGE WERE GOING DIGITAL AND TRYING TO MAKE A NAME FOR THEMSELVES IN THE BLOGOSPHERE. IT WAS A CLEAR INDICATION OF HER LOVE FOR THE CRAFTS OF THE WORLD. NOW SHE IS KNOWN AS “THE KNITTER”
Grant Fell: Where are you from and where do you currently live? Nicole Leybourne: I am from Auckland, New Zealand and grew up swimming in water holes and eating freshly picked berries in the summertime. I’m currently living in Perth, on the West Coast of Australia where the summers are dry and hot. Not very ideal knitting temperatures. When did you first start knitting? When I was younger I had to knit a scarf for a school project. I didn’t even know how to cast on, so I asked my Nana to knit the scarf for me. I would knit bits and pieces here and there as I was growing up, making woolly things with lots of holes in them. It was only late last year (2014) when I decided to pick up my big needles again and knit things without so many holes. Now I reckon I’m a bit better :) What was the first thing you knitted? A jumper that I never finished sewing together.
Were you taught by someone or did you teach yourself? My Nana and my Mum taught me how to cast on. From then onwards I taught myself the rest by watching Youtube videos (not very exciting is it?). Tell us about your work processes; How do you decide on what you are going to create? How do you choose yarns? What tools do you use? First I start by choosing the colours of the yarns on little colour swatches. This, to me is the most exciting part. Then I get my wool samples. The feel, the smell, and all of the wonderful colours is just so exciting. Then I decide what I’d like to make with these colours. I envision a design and cast on. I make and remake my designs until I find the right fit. There is a lot of trial and error as I’ve had no formal training as a designer. This means a lot of knitting and undoing of designs. But that’s okay, I get there in the end. In terms of the tools, it’s just me, my yarn, my hands
and my needles, knitting away on my living room floor and sewing arms onto bodies. Who or what is your biggest influence when it comes to knitting? I don’t really have any one particular influence when it comes to my knitting or designs. My mind is full of ideas and chaos and most of the time I’m not really sure where they come from. But I do feel most inspired amongst the trees of NZ. Where do you sell your pieces? I currently sell my designs at www. theknitter.co, a little website I made this year. What does 2016 hold for The Knitter? New colours, lots of fluffy yarn and more swimming in water holes and eating freshly picked berries over our summer break in NZ. And to finding some lovely NZ stockists while I’m at it. http://www.theknitter.co/
DREAM WEAVER SHE LISTENS TO MUSIC AS DIVERSE AS BLOOD ORANGE, KINDNESS, SADE AND AL GREEN WHILST SHE WEAVES HER CONTEMPORARY ART PIECES AND COLLAGES, PERHAPS REFLECTING THE BLANK CANVAS, FEELING OR ‘GESTURE’ SHE LIKES TO START EACH WEAVE WITH. GRANT FELL TALKS TO POPPY KURAL Photograph: David Shields Fashion: Ella Murphy Model: Eddie Turner at Jaz Daly Management
Grant Fell: Where are you from and where do you live? Poppy Kural: I’m from Sydney. I grew up in Palm Beach and now live in Paddington. How would you describe what you do? I guess I would say I am a textiles artist. My main medium being weaving. How has 2015 been? What has happened to you? 2015 has been a productive year. I have travelled to India, South Korea and New York, drawing inspiration for my work along the way. Describe your working process, how do decide what you are going to do? Which yarns do you work with most? How do you select those yarns and prepare them? What tools do you use? When I’m making my weaves, I don’t intend to describe a picture. I enjoy experiencing my yarns as lines and I feel as if I am sketching with them a feeling, a gesture, an energetic direction. Because I am working with mainly black, white and natural colours at the moment, this linear quality is particularly clear to me when I am making these weaves. Although the finished works may suggest landscapes, I enjoy the
non representational play in the relationship between line, shape, texture and colour. There is always a tension between the technicality involved with any artistic discipline, and the creative choices the artist makes regarding the unique use of their materials. My process begins with a strong attraction to various yarns and then I find a way to incorporate them. I use a lot of organic materials; cotton, linen, jute, rope and off cuts of fabrics. I see the dangling threads as an extension of what i have created almost as if i am setting the yarns free so they can follow their own line. How long does an average weave take? Depending on the size and thickness of the materials, anywhere from two days, to two weeks. Aside from weaving, you also have other artistic pursuits. Can you tell us a little about those? I have always loved collage, shredding and assembling different materials together. Weaving is a bit like that also. Combing a range of different colours, textures and materials to create a new artwork. Dancing is also something I love to do, a loose expression – something that also comes through in my weaving.
Who, or what is your biggest influence? I’m lucky to have amazing talented people in my life - they are my biggest inspiration. I’m also inspired by artists; Eve Hesse, Cy Twombly and David Lynch, they all have a great influence in my work. Music is a must when I weave, I listen to Al Green on repeat. You participated in a group gallery show here in Auckland. What was it called and who else was involved? This show was called “Do I Dare Disturb the Universe”. I showed two works from my ‘Moonlight Horizon’ series. There were three other artists involved, Melanie Bell, John Ward Knox and Lauren Winstone. The works all looked beautiful together. What does 2016 hold for Poppy Kural? Hopefully some time spent in the Australian desert, working and collaborating with local communities and learning traditional weaving techniques.
Poppy Kural Website and shop Poppy Kural Facebook Poppy Kural Instagram
Photography: Superteam Studios at Vivien’s Creative, Melbourne Hair and Make-up: Justin Henry at Vivien’s Creative, Melbourne using Kryolan Cosmetics Models: Madeleine Gurton and Lise Olsen at IMG Models
Opening page and this page, model: Madeleine
Photography: Steven Popovich at The Pool Collective Fashion Editor: Liz Kavanagh Make-up: Cat Smith at Union Management using M.A.C Cosmetics Hair: Dale Delaporte at Prema New York Model: Mariia at Chic Management
Opening page: Earrings by Alexander Blak, jacket modelâ€™s own. This page: Hooded jacket by Topshop. 59
This page: Scarf by Scarfe, singlet modelâ€™s own. Following page: Jacket by Jack London. 60
WHY COMPROMISE Photography: Russell Kleyn Fashion Editor: Zoey Radford Scott Hair and Make-up: Natalee Fisher Model: Alannah Kwant
Opening page, this page, opposite page, and last page: Jacket by Max Mollison, socks by Shark Week, sneakers by Vans x Golf Wang, earrings by Zoeys Earrings and San & Mullet, jeans stylistâ€™s own.
Bomber by Palace, T-shirt by Eric Elms x Brain Dead, sneakers by Vans x Golf Wang, earrings by Zoeys Earrings and San & Mullet. 71
This page and opposite page: Puffer jacket by Palace, earrings by San & Mullet.
Tracksuit by Shark Week, sneakers by Vans x Golf Wang, earrings by Zoeys Earrings and San & Mullet. 75
This page and opposite page: Puffer jacket by Palace, shorts by Perks and Mini, earrings by San & Mullet.
Bomber by Maharishi, jumper by Perks and Mini, trackpants by Shark Week, earrings by San & Mullet. 79
This page: Coveralls by Perks and Mini, earrings by San & Mullet, sunglasses stylistâ€™s own. Opposite page: Hoodie by Palace, pants by Supreme, earrings by Zoeys Earrings and San & Mullet.
Jacket by Max Mollison, socks by Shark Week, sneakers by Vans x Golf Wang, earrings by Zoeys Earrings and San & Mullet, jeans stylists own. Song title: The Buzzcocks,
NORTH SIDE GAL
Photography: Superteam Studios at Vivien’s Creative, Melbourne Fashion Editors: Ribal Swang and Justin Henry Hair and Make-up: Justin Henry at Vivien’s Creative, Melbourne using O&M hair products and Chanel Cosmetics Model: Lise Olsen at IMG Models 84
Opening page and opposite page: Shirt by Strateas.Carlucci
This page: Shirt and apron by Assin Opposite page: Jacket and vest by LPD New York. 89
This page: Top by Julian Zigerli. Opposite page: Shirt and skirt by LPD New York
Opposite page: Shirt by Assin. This page: Top by Julian Zigerli, pants by Strateas.Carlucci.
This page: Top by LPD New York. Opposite page: Top by MEAT, pants by LPD New York, shoes by Palladium. A special thank you to Distal Phalanx and Assin 94
Song title: JD McPherson, 2010
THESE DAYS Photography: Russ Flatt Fashion Editor: Rachael Churchward Assistant Fashion Editor: Ethan Butler Hair: Ethan Butler using Triumph and Disaster Grooming: Nicole Ku Models: Jack and Alex Roberts at 62 Models
Opening page: Jack wears sweater, socks and sneakers by Adidas, trackpants by James Perse from Workshop, earrings by Steve Hall. This page: Alex wears jacket by Zambesi Man, jeans by Neuw, caps and sneakers (worn throughout) modelâ€™s own. , 99
This page: Jack wears sweater by Neuw, earring by Steve Hall. Opposite page: Jacket by Deus Ex Machina, trackpants by James Perse from Workshop, earring by Steve Hall, cap and underwear (worn throughout) modelâ€™s own. 100
This page: Jack wears suit by Zambesi Man, socks by Adidas, sneakers by New Balance. Opposite page: Alex wears singlet by Zambesi Man, shorts by Lost & Found from The Shelter, beanie and earrings by Steve Hall, socks by Adidas. 103
This page: Alex wears turtleneck (worn underneath) and earrings by Steve Hall, sweater by Zambesi Man. Opposite page: Hooded cardigan by Workshop Denim, T-shirt (worn around neck) by Neuw, trackpants and underwear modelâ€™s own, beanie stylistâ€™s own. 104
This page: Jack wears jacket by Zambesi Man, pant by Topman, earrings by Steve Hall. Opposite page: Sweatpants and T-shirt (worn underneath) by Zambesi Man, sweatshirt by Workshop Denim, earring by Steve Hall. 107
Jack wears trenchcoat by Zambesi Man, pants by Topman, socks by Adidas, sneakers by New Balance, earrings by Steve Hall. 109
This page: Alex wears leather jacket by Zambesi Man, jeans by Neuw, beanie and earrings by Steve Hall. Opposite page: Top by Deus Ex Machina, trackpants by Zambesi Man, earrings by Steve Hall. 110
Jack (left) wears hoodie by Cocurata from Workshop, pants by Topman, socks by Adidas, sneakers by New Balance. Alex (right) wears top by Deus Ex Machina, jeans by Neuw, beanie by Steve Hall. Fashion assist: Nicole Ku. Thanks to Jules and Al. Song title: Jackson Browne, 1973 113
WHAT DIFFERENCE DOES IT MAKE Photography: David K Shields Fashion Editor: Samara Wilson Hair and Make-up: Claire Thomson at Company1 Models: Jack and Nicola at Jaz Daly Management
Opening page: Nicola wears coat by Miu Miu dress by Prada. This page: Jack wears shirts by Prada. 116
This page: Coat and pants by Ellery, bralette by Calvin Klein Underwear. Opposite page: Jack wears suit by Prada. 118
This page: Nicola wears sleeveless jacket by Prada. Opposite page: Jack wears shirt by Prada.
This page and last page: Nicola wears suits by Dior. Jack wears suit and shirt by Gucci. 123
Jack wears shirts, trousers, and shoes by Prada, socks stylistâ€™s own. 124
Song title: The Smiths, 1983
WALLS AND DOORS Photography: David K Shields Fashion Editor: Ella Murphy Make-up: Claire Thomson at Company 1 Hair: Chris Coonrod at Union Management Models: Tamasin Altmann and Marcus Stewart at Priscillaâ€™s Model Management
Opening page: Dress and all acceesories by Serpent and The Swan, shirt by Akira. This page: Top by Serpent and The Swan layered with top by Karen Walker, skirt and pants by House of Cards, belt and shoes by Prada. Opposite page: Shirt by Kaliver, chest plate by Serpent & The Swan, shorts, belt and socks by Prada, shoes by RM Williams. 129
This page, opposite page, and last page: All clothing by Prada, earrings by Harlequin Market.
This page: Jacket by Maticevski, shirt and top by Prada, brooch by Harlequin Market. Opposite page: Dress by Maticevsk, dress (worn underneath), By Johnny, top and neck tie by BĂşl, earring by Harlequin Market, socks by Prada, shoes by RM Williams. 132
Opposite page: Jacket by Gucci, shirt, skirt and briefs by Akira, broach by Harlequin Market. Song title: Jackson Browne, 2014
I NEED A SITUATION Photography: David K Shields Fashion Editor: Ella Murphy Make-up: Chloe Langford at Work Agency Hair: Chris Coonrod at Union Management Model: Sam Romberger at IMG Models
Opening page: Swimsuit by Duski, earrings (worn throughout) by Harlequin Market, necklaces and earring by Chanel. This page: Jacket and stockings by babylikestopony, bikini bottoms by Duski. Opposite page: Coat by Prada, sunglasses by Karen Walker, rings by Harlequin Market, dress by Ohiko. 139
This page: Dress, By Johnny, gloves by Prada. Opposite page: Suit by Prada.
This page and opposite page: Onepiece by babylikestopony, rings by Harlequin Market, earring by Chanel, boots by Stuart Weitzman. Song title: Wreckless Eric, 1978 143
THE LAST LIVING ROSE Photography: Stephen Langmanis Fashion Editor: Sara Dunn Make-up: James Molloy Hair: Kieron Lavine Model: Fredika Larsson at Viva London
Opening page: Button-down shirt by Asli Polat, tank with leather straps by Ming Studios. This page: Coat by Kenzo, dress by J J S Lee. Opposite page: Sheer top and skirt by Miu Miu, button-down shirt (worn underneath) by Kenzo. 146
This page: Coat by Victoria Beckham, buttondown shirt by Asli Polat, tank and culottes by Ming Studios, shoes by Miista. Opposite page: Poncho and trousers by Peter Pilotto, sheer dress by Asli Polat, belt stylistâ€™s own. 148
This page: Dress and tank by Prada. Opposite page: Shirt by Miu Miu, sheer dress (worn on top), By Sun, skirt by Asli Polat. 150
Song title: PJ Harvey 2011
I AM MY OWN NAME Photography: Marissa Findlay Fashion Editors: Sebastian McGirr-Hunt and Dylan James Richards for Zambesi Store Hair and Make-up: Kath Gould for Redken New Zealand using M.A.C Cosmetics Model: Lise at Clyne Models
Opening page: Dress by Rick Owens, Shell top by Zambesi (SHOP NOW), sunglasses by Mykite x Margiela (SHOP NOW), boots stylistâ€™s own. This page: Sweater, pants, and boots by Y-3, sneakers by MM6 (SHOP NOW), bracelets and rings by Serge Thoraval (SHOP NOW). Opposite page: T-Shirt by Bernhard Willhelm, dress by Zambesi, bracelets (worn as earrings) by Serge Thoraval.
This page and opposite page: Hoodie, coat and boots by Vetements, swimsuit by Zambesi. (SHOP NOW)
This page: Singlet and shorts by Rick Owens, sneakers by MM6 (SHOP NOW), bag by Y-3, sunglasses by Mykita x Margiela (SHOP NOW), rings by Serge Thoraval (SHOP NOW). Opposite page: Puffer jacket by Bernhard Willhelm, dress by Rick Owens.
This page: Shirt by Margiela, metal bra by Fannie. Opposite page: T-shirt by Bernhard Willhelm, dress by Zambesi, bracelets (worn as earrings) by Serge Thoraval.
This page and opposite page: Top (worn as mini dress) and jacket by Bernhard Willhelm, boots by Rick Owens.
This page: Dress by Bernhard Willhelm, boots by Vetements. Opposite page: T-shirt by Y-3, shorts and boots by Rick Owens.
This page and opposite page: Shirt by Bernhard Willhelm, skirt by Vetements, boots by Rick Owens (SHOP NOW), sunglasses by Mykita x Margiela (SHOP NOW).
This page: Smock by Bernhard Willhelm, singlet dress by Rick Owens, sunglasses This page: Dress by Linda Farrow. by Bernhard Opposite page: Willhelm. Singlet and shorts by Opposite page: Rick Owens, sneakers by MM6, bag Dress by Y-3,by Bernhard sunglasses byWillhelm, Mykita jeans by Acne. x Margiela, rings by Serge Thoraval.
This page: Smock by Bernhard Willhelm, singlet dress by Rick Owens, sunglasses by Linda Farrow. Opposite page: Dress and boots by Margiela, (SHOP NOW) singlet by Rick Owens, jeans by Acne.
This page and opposite page: Shirt and boots, pants and coat by Margiela.
This page: Sweatshirt and trackpants by Vetements, boots by Margiela. (SHOP NOW) Opposite page: Shirt by Margiela, metal bra by Fannie.
This page and opposite page: Scarves by Bernhard Willhelm, boots Margiela. Song title: Peter Murphy, 2014
Photography: Thor Elias Fashion Editor: Sarah Birchley Hair and Make-up: Gemma Elaine using Kevin Murphy and M.A.C Cosemetics Model: Chelsea Graver at Vivienâ€™s Models
Opening page: Cape by Zimmerman, pants by Ann Demeulemeester, custom neckpiece stylistâ€™s own. This page: Blouse and shorts by Gail Sorronda, lace veil stylistâ€™s own. Opposite page: Cape and skirt by Gail Sorronda, custom headpiece by Crown and Glory.
This page: Dress by Gail Sorronda, custom headpiece by Crown and Glory. Opposite page: Dress by Soot, custom headpiece by Crown and Glory, boots by Topshop Unique.
This page: Dress by Gail Sorronda, custom headpiece by Crown and Glory, choker by Harriet Sutherland. Opposite page: Trench coat by House of Cards, hat by Soot, vintage belt stylistâ€™s own. 180
This page: Cape by Zimmerman, pants by Ann Demeulemeester, custom neckpiece stylistâ€™s own. Opposite page: Dress by Jessica Tovey, veil stylistâ€™s own. Song title: PJ Harvey 2011 183
ENCHANTED. IT IS ABSOLUTELY THE FIRST WORD WE THINK OF WHEN WE THINK OF WHANGAREI, NORTHLAND-BASED ARTIST EVAN HEASMAN AKA SOJU SHOTS. HIS LUMINOUS, FAERIE-LIKE SYLPHS HAVE DRAWN US IN FROM THE MOMENT WE SAW THEM. SPRITES FROLLICKING. AS A RESIDENT IMAGE CURATOR TO HIT RECORD.COM, ACTOR AND CREATIVE IMPRESSARIO JOSEPH GORDON-LEVITT’S AMBITIOUS INTERNATIONAL CREATIVE COMMUNITY, EVAN IS EMERGING FROM THE NORTHLAND MIST AS A SHOOTING STAR.
Grant Fell: What has happened since we last featured Soju Shots in Black Magazine? I’ve been busy illustrating a children’s story as well as other little projects which allow me create my little characters. Hit RECord has been a huge part of your development. Can you explain, what is Hit RECord and how that relationship works? HitrRECord is an online collaborative production company which allows artists to work on awesome projects together. The cool thing is absolutely anyone can join and contribute to any of the projects happening at the time. They have completed two seasons of a Tv show called “hitRECord on tv” which is a half hour variety show including music, animation, skits etc. I’m lucky enough to be one of the image curators for the site. He seems to be quite a big fan of your work, do you communicate directly with Hit Record founder Joseph Gordon-Levitt? He’s known as ‘Regular Joe’ by the hitrecord community and we all generally communicate through the site itself. I did have a skype meeting for one of the projects for the tv show once, he really is Regular Joe. There was even an Emmy involved this year. Tell us about that? Yes, the first season won an Emmy
which was really exciting as it meant all of these contributing artists from around the world are all part of the Emmy win. We all got these certificates which was awesome too. I had created some illustrations for a short animation which was included in the “fantasy” episode. Definitely one of my life highlights. You have always been a good collaborator. Who have you collaborated with recently? Artists, magazines? I’m currently collaborating on an exciting children’s book project which is planned for release next year. I also got to work on another project for hitRECcord called The Impossible Dream: Buttercup. It’s this really heartwarming story about a young woman from Germany who’s impossible dream is to come to New Zealand. I got to design a little character of her for an animated segment...as well as some characters from the tv show “The Tribe”. I recommend you check it out on YouTube as it’s a really beautiful watch. Your Instagram is chock full of beautiful images, Many of the beautiful landscapes around your home in Northland - is photogaphy your second art? Yeah I’ve always loved snapping my camera and now that it’s so much easier to do with built in cameras on your phone I’m constantly taking
pics. Over the last couple of years I’ve started experimenting by adding my little characters to my scenery shots around home (whangarei) and uploading them to Instagram. I was getting such awesome response and feedback from followers that I make it a very regular thing. It’s heaps of fun too. Tell us about your working process - do you use traditional art materials or is it mostly digital? I draw everything by hand first, I carry a pen and paper with me everywhere in my trusty backpack just incase inspiration hits. Lately I have been scanning these drawings into Photoshop and adding colour and texture there. I also use acrylics, watercolours, inks and all that awesome messy stuff. What does 2016 hold for Soju Shots? Hopefully more crazy characters, books, animations, collaborations and sushi. HitRECord Soju Shots website and shop Soju Shots FB Soju Shot Instagram
Bow and Arrow Sparrow 189
Captured by The Compost People
You Asked Me For Space
Mr Fox 197
WE FIRST BECAME AWARE OF SEAN AKA THE BLACK MATH IN 2011 WHEN HE CREATED A MASTERFUL COVER BOMB VERSION OF BLACK ISSUE 16 WE QUICKLY FORMED A CREATIVE BOND AND COLLABORATED ON A SHOOT FOR THE NEXT ISSUE WITH OUR GOOD FRIEND, MELBOURNE MODEL LEGEND DAN ZIZYS AND THE BOYS AT SUPERTEAM STUDIOS. IT’S BEEN ALL GO EVER SINCE. GRANT FELL CALCULATES THE MATH CIRCA 2015
Products available at Stephen Marr salons www.sansceuticals.com
Grant Fell: What has happened since we last featured The Black Math in Black Magazine? The Black Math: Where to start. I have been working from a studio in Melbourne the past year. I’m currently working on a series and will look to have an exhibition in the next 6 months. There have been a lot of collaborations and personal projects as well as some shows. I’ve managed to do a bit of travel. We were initially taken with your crossover work between graphic art and Fashion/Beauty images - is this still something you are doing a lot of? It definitely is. I’ve been lucky enough to work with some great photographers over the past few years. I find that high fashion / beauty images still work really well with what I do. There is a big contrast between the clean, crisp type of photography and the style of art I work over the top of them. It’s a style I have been working with since we last caught up and one that I’m still enjoying. You have always been a good collaborator. Who have you collaborated with recently? Artists, magazines? I do really enjoy collaborations. I recently put out a print release with Attak, a creative team from the Netherlands. I’ve also worked with different photographers, models and artists over the past couple of years on different projects. Beautiful
Bizarre magazine, a contemporary art publication just ran a feature on my work. Then there have been a number of commercial collaborations. Can you tell us about those - Wrangler etc? The most commercial collab I have worked on was with Wrangler. We created a capsule range of art inspired denim and fleece. It was a really great project to work on as it was different to anything else I have done. The whole process from initial planning to the launch was good fun. I ended up doing live art in a shop window in Sydney the day it launched. I’ve also done quite a bit of artwork for Valley Eyewear for different campaigns. Tell us about your working process. I notice from a shot on your FB page you have pens next to your lappy - do you actually do that sort of illustrative work as well or is it mostly digital? I definitely draw a lot still. Most of my work starts out as physical illustration and then I will scan it in. There is a big digital element in some pieces but the bulk of it is manual drawing. I still draw over printed photos most days. You have appeared in a few exhibitions as well, can you tell us about those? We just had an exhibition at Black Lake Studios which is the space I work from in Melbourne. It was a showcase of past and present artists who have worked from the space. I was also recently up in Sydney for Pastemodernism 4. It was
a massive show curated by Ben Frost and was a celebration of paste up art. It was great to get up for that as it is a medium I have been working in for a long time. Some of your work is quite hieroglyphic - where or how do you draw inspiration for that? It’s an aesthetic I have been working with for a few years now. It’s not overly inspired by one particular set of visual language. Some of the symbols I use are recognisable and some of them I have made up. It’s more about the overall narrative at the end of a piece as opposed to individual elements having What does 2016 hold for The Black Math? Im planning a solo exhibition for mid 2016, at this stage I’m looking to make it a big show. I have a lot of work from the past couple of years I still haven’t put out and I’m working on a new concept series specifically for it. I think it’s going to be a very busy but productive year. The Black Math website and shop The Black Math FB The Black Math Instagram The Black Math Tumblr
THIS MONTH, I WENT TO THE FAR NORTH EAST OF INDIA (NER), A PLACE LITTLE KNOWN OR TALKED ABOUT EITHER GLOBALLY OR EVEN WITHIN INDIA ITSELF. NESTLED IN THE SHADOW OF THE HIMALAYAS, MANIPUR AND NAGALAND ARE REGIONS THAT DEFY CENTRAL INDIA’S VIEW OF ITSELF AS A HINDU AND MUSLIM NATION. HOME TO 45 MILLION PEOPLE FROM 220 ETHNIC AND LANGUAGE GROUPS, THE NER IS POOR AND MALIGNED BY THE REST OF INDIA AS ‘BACKWARD’ AND ‘TRIBAL’. THE LOCAL PEOPLE HAVE LONG-SUFFERED FROM INSURGENCY, INTRATRIBAL CONFLICT AND GOVERNMENT SANCTIONED VIOLENCE, AND THEY HAVE STRUGGLED FOR AUTONOMY SINCE INDIA ACHIEVED INDEPENDENCE FROM THE BRITISH AND BECAME A NATION IN 1947. THE CIVIL AND POLITICAL UNREST HAS SEVERELY LIMITED ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL DEVELOPMENT, EFFECTIVELY ISOLATING THE REGION FROM INDIA AND THE REST OF THE WORLD. THIS IS THE STORY OF AUGUSTINE, A STYLISH LOCAL MAN WHO MERGES THE TRADITIONAL AND THE MODERN WITH EASE. Photography and story: Jessie English at Remedial Media
In this place I met a young man named Augustine Shimray, the eldest son of an eldest son of an eldest son from the Tankhul tribe, a plains tribe from Nagaland. His father died when Augustine was very young, leaving him and his brothers to fend for themselves both financially and spiritually. All of the stories and songs of the tribe that should have been passed along to them died with him, so Augustine developed a kind of tribal identity of his own. Combining what he knew of his Tankhul traditions such as the magic of Hornbill feathers, bear claws for protection, beaded pieces for ceremonies and ritual headdresses, he also began making his own dreamcatchers, tattooing himself and his brother with “personal identity cards”, making jewelry from burnt vines and leather and creating a style of his own that was at once tribal and contemporary. A new tribal culture for a new generation. He left the village and travelled for a number of years, strengthening his own sense of himself as he went. In more recent years he has turned
to his uncles and older members who are left in his home village of Ukhrul, learning the songs and stories they can remember, assigning himself the task of being the tribe’s keeper of this information. It has always been an aural tradition in the Naga tribes, so now he records them on his Xoom recorder. Voices that can be heard well after he has gone. Jessie asked Augustine to define his own style: “It’s indigenous, I’m mixing my own cultural heritage along with my own sense of darkness and my own sense of minimalism. The heritage inspires me a lot because I take it as a tribute to the ones who have left this world it’s for them only; my grandmother, my mother, my father, my best friend who couldn’t escape from the fate of this world. “Violence equals a blackness in the world, I want to be invisible from every hatred that is there, I only want to be visible to the good
things. The white look is the thing about how you unleash and become a different bird, a different creature, like when you crack the nut- no matter how dark the outside looks, the inside can be white and pure. It’s about a purity of spirit. My accessories are more related to nature, there’s no plastic, they are all recycled and reclaimed, I like to make use of the waste. It comes naturally, I don’t plan it too much. I don’t desire anything, I don’t ask for anything, it just comes to me The world is not about money, or about business, but about who you meet in your journey.”
Remedial Media Opening page: Bear Claw necklace for the warding off of all physical danger, handed down from Augustine’s uncle. Antler plugs made by Augustine. Opposite page: Traditional Naga woven shawl worn as as wrap, wooden rings made by Augustine.
This page: Jersey wrap pants by BHOOTSAVAR and Nitin Bal Chauhan, top from Delhi market, t- shirt worn as turban from Kohima. Vine and leather cuff and leather and carved horn necklace by Augustine Bear claw as before. Opposite page: Top by Nitin Bal Chauhan. Hornbill Feather handed down from family. Leather cap from Yashwant Place, Delhi. White temple pants worn layered over white leggings Shoes by Nike. Cuff and neckpiece as before.
This page: The City of Imphal Opposite page: Black jersey pants and jersey shirt from Delhi markets Leather jacket by Oasis. Traditional Tankhul beaded yoke by Augustineâ€™s Aunt. Studded Leather sandals from Kohima
Our 5th BLKonBLK! Our digital only version of Black Magazine. Pure food, pure air, pure friendships, pure family, pure summer (in Aotearoa a...