Decorations Embroidery, Figs 22, 23 Even the simplest garments were often decorated, while spectacular embroideries were added on royal and noble dress. Less expensively, but still for the wealthy, a garment could be 'powdered' all over with a repeated motif or finished with deep embroidered borders, which were worked separately and applied to the garment. For the less wealthy there was still scope for embellishment, with fancy stitching round the neck and sleeves, or bands of ribbon or contrasting cloth applied to edges and hems. Work simple stitches (Fig 22) in a contrasting colour. Use embroidery wool (crewel or tapestry) for any woollen cloth, coton perle or stranded silk on finer fabrics. Bands of more elaborate embroidery can be worked by hand or machine directly onto the garment or, more conveniently, 22. Simple stitch decoration Use an embroidery stitch you know, or one of these: a. Stem stitch. b. Two rows of stem stitch with French knots. c. Chain stitch: very effective in thick yarn. of. Zigzag stitch, a form of back stitch producing a double line on the other side.
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onto strips of material to be applied later. For suitable designs look at contemporary sculptures and book illuminations, as well as needlework; the scrolling stem design is a common feature (Fig 23). Cable stitch is a useful machine embroidery technique. Wind a thick thread such as coton perle onto the bobbin (the bottom thread) and work the design from the wrong side with a normal sewing thread in the needle. On the right side this looks like hand couching. For strips of embroidery to be applied later, trace the design onto light iron-on interlining and apply it to the back of the material. This will give you the design to follow and support the material when sewn onto the garment. Programmable sewing machines offer the possibility of repeated spot patterns or more elaborate borders. Really elaborate embroidery, whether by hand or machine, is a specialist skill. It needs to be done well to look convincing.
23. Band and border patterns Examples like these can be scaled up or down and worked by hand or machine.
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