8a
b
8. Lattice work for Fig 6 Fitting a regular pattern to a curved object requires patience. Use narrow ribbon or flat braid and pin all the strands in place before stitching them down. a. Stage 1. Start at CF and curve the two ends of the first strand down each side. Add strands on each side alternately, 3-5 cm apart and equally spaced, and pin at each intersection. b. Stage 2. Continue the pattern of squares to the crown and almost to the seams at the back, where several ends will meet. Finish some at the
intersections, keeping the design as symmetrical as possible, but expect less regular shapes down the back. It can always be covered with a veil! Stitch down all strands in turn, marking each intersection with a sequin and bead. Add a row or two of braid round the edge and extra decoration across the forehead, emphasising the angles at the sides of the face. If the wearer has plaits to tuck into the sides, the caul will probably stay on by itself; if not, pin it to a fillet.
9a
LEFT TEMPLER A
A
B
B 20 cm
9. Templers, early 15th century Templers were decorated cup structures worn on the temples. They were intended to widen the head outline and to support a veil. The hair was worn inside and helped keep them in place. a. Earlier templers, covering only part of the ear. They are pinned to a fillet and shown without the veil for clarity. Patterns (for a and b) - Both show left templers, so reverse the pattern for the right ones. Scale up the pattern and try out the shapes in card before
cutting any material. Cut and make up the final shape in light buckram, a fine lining and an outer layer of silk (Methods, Fig 13). Ensure you cut and make right and left halves. Decorate the templers and front band (b only) with a lattice pattern (Fig 8) in metallic thread, but finer and closer (about 2 cm apart) than for the caul. Both a and b have a tape (shaded) linking the open top corners. The tape holds the shape and provides an edge to pin through to the fillet. continued overleaf
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