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d) Whether the grain lines are falling correctly in the proper places on your figure. e) Whether there are any wrinkles. f) Whether the darts are of optimum width and point towards the bust point ending 他" to 1" away from the bust point. 8.5. SOLVING FITTING PROBLEMS IN A BLOUSE Basic Principles: (1) If there is too little or too much of ease, let out the seam or dart near the tight area and deepen (i.e., take in) near the too loose area. Apparent tightness in one area may also be rectified sometimes by deepening the part of the seam where the garment is relatively loose. For example, if the blouse seems tight near the arm joint of shoulder line, taking a deeper seam at neck point of shoulder line may correct the problem. (2) To get rid of diagonal wrinkles provide greater length and/or width near the pointed end of the wrinkle. Sometimes the problem is solved by decreasing the length of the garment at the opposite end. For example, if there are wrinkles pointing towards the shoulder near the arm joint, you may either let cut the shoulder seam and retack reducing the seam allowance as you approach the arm joint or you may simply deepen the seam at the opposite end i.e., neck point. Both processes reduce the slope of the shoulder. By trial and error you have to see which procedure gives the best effect. (3) If a crosswise grain line is sagging, lift the sagging part by taking a deeper seam above it. If the grain line is curving up you have to do the opposite i.e., let out the seam above the rising part. Before making this adjustment, make sure that the off grain condition is not due to faulty cutting. (4) To rectify a lengthwise seam line that curves or slants instead of hanging vertical, rip out the seam near the bulge (heavy bust, protruding back etc.) which is the cause of the trouble, and retack providing greater length and width for the bulge. (5) To remedy an off balance condition, deepen the seam above the side which hangs down or let out the seam directly above the part which rises up. (6) Fitting must be done over and over again until a perfect fit has been achieved. As mentioned earlier sleeve should be tacked to the armhole and tried on only after checking the fit of the blouse and sleeve separately and making the necessary adjustments. 8.6. FITTING TECHNIQUES (1) Since the fitting is done wearing the blouse right side out, all changes needed will be marked on the right side, with chalk, pencil or pins. They are to be transferred to the wrong side later (after taking off the blouse) for making necessary adjustments or alterations. (2) Fitting is usually done only on the right hand part of the garment. Changes marked on right hand side are to be transferred to the left hand side, so that the alterations are identical on both sides. If there are any imperfections they can be taken care of at the time of second fitting.