FOOD&DRINK
EATINGOUT
San Marco’s, South Shore
S
mall is beautiful, they say, but when something good gets bigger more can enjoy it. And with popular South Shore restaurant San Marco’s it’s definitely a case of the more the merrier. The Italian with those Mediterranean and English touches moved at Christmas from an old terraced store in Highfield Road, round the corner to the former Booth’s supermarket premises. Even as we approached the new, wider frontage and its spacious bar/reception area, I feared it may have lost a previous cosy character. But I needn’t have worried. There must be space for 100 diners but, even on a wintry Tuesday evening, the place was threequarters full and buzzing. We were seated at one of many comfortable booths along the wall, nestled between a stage with mini-grand piano and large, open-plan kitchens. Italian arias and modern Italian ballads sounded in the background and we had a good view of the extensive new premises. The big interior is broken up by large red beams and columns, and there were reassuringly familiar statues and pictures from the old premises still up for sale. Opposite us was an elaborate circular parabola, decorated in ivy and roses with a party table for a dozen including a pair of thrones. On this occasion it was occupied by a 13th birthday party group but the girls’ excited chatter only added to that Continental vitality. Fortunately, there were also familiar faces among the staff, which were now numerous enough to cope with the extra custom and ensure service was efficient and friendly. Our evening, in fact, was an enjoyable, laidback affair. We started with a couple of glasses of house wine, white zinfandel for her and shiraz for me (total £4.90), and the deliciously creamy garlic bread with cheese and tomato (£3.75). The menu is also a little grander, with reference to San Marco’s in Paris and South of France owned by the extended family. However, the main dishes remain the same (and the same reasonable prices!) with a few newcomers – including fillet Vesuvio, 8oz steak in red wine with a wedge of stilton, also paellas. For starters my wife chose prawn cocktail
BIGGER AND BETTER: San Marco’s in South Shore
FACTFILE Address:153 Lytham Road South Shore Tel: (01253) 404010 Open: From 5pm every day plus 11.30am-3.30pm Sunday Booking: Always advisable Parking: Roadside Cards: Most Vegetarian: Yes Access: Ground floor with disabled facilities Extras: Early bird (two courses plus drink £7.95) all Monday and 5-7.15pm TuesThurs Children: Separate portions Value for money: 9/10 Life! Rating: 10/10 (£4.95), a generous portion of refreshing and plump seafood in tangy sauce. My mushrooms stuffed with garlic breadcrumbs, tomato and béchamel (£4.50) were four plump vegetables in a pool of sauce that was a lovely fusion of tastes. Main courses offer a good range up to 16oz T-bones and including a beautifully tender, honey-glazed lamb Henry. Even the pizza range offers one with fried eggs and fillet steak. Pasta, too, tempted with my favourite carbonara sauce or a creamy chicken and ham cannelloni. In the end I opted for chicken San Marco (£9.95). This was a large, chicken breast off the bone with succulent white meat so tender it almost melted in the mouth. It came in a mellow, white wine sauce with mixed peppers and asparagus, accompanied by crispy garlic potatoes and finely cut green beans and carrots with a tasty almost caramelised finish. My wife’s first choice was from the seafood which included halibut and trout. However, fillet of salmon pan-fried in lobster sauce (£10.25) was unavailable this evening so
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she reverted to a favourite, steak Diane. This is available cooked with ribeye (£9.95) but she opted for an 8oz lava rock-grilled sirloin (£12.95) with a Diane sauce (£2). We were only charged, however, as though for the salmon. The tender steak was grilled perfectly, served with similar vegetables plus tomato, mushrooms, chunky onion rings and creamy gratin potatoes with the rich Diane sauce. We enjoyed two more glasses of wine and over a chat with staff discovered the piano and stage were used on Fridays and Saturdays for live music. For desserts we enjoyed a colourful and refreshing mix of Italian ice-cream (£3.50) and three large profiteroles (£3.95) with lashings of beautifully presented chocolate and cream. Finally, two tasty cappuccinos (£2.90 total), a sambucca liqueur complete with lit coffee bean (£2.50) to dispel any garlic aftertones, brought my total bill to £56.75 for an excellent meal and evening in this large, friendly restaurant.
Roy Edmonds
WINECORNER
by Jacqueline Morley
W
e’re in the pink for Valentine’s day. Say it with Rosés – if not with roses. You’ve still got time to redeem yourself romantically ... or splash out on a solo celebration. If you’re in the market for a bright budget-stretching sparkler try the Co-op for the latest listing, Champagne De Castelnau Rosé nonvintage (right), produced by the regional vins de champagne co-operative in Reims. It’s a relative newcomer in terms of brand recognition but, on relaunch four years ago, made a name for itself, and now enjoys listings at The Ritz in London and Café Rouge restaurants around the UK. The magic’s in the mix, a blend of three grape varietals, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier making up the bulk, with 26 per cent Pinot Noir. It’s a pink grapefruit colour with salmon pink hue, the nose is light and subtle with hints of cooked fruits, fresh wild strawberries and ripe plums. The palate is soft, light and delicate with flavours of fruit pastels and a hint of kirsch. This cuvée possesses all the attractiveness one expects from a quality champagne, but with the magic and charm of a rosé. What’s more, it’s still on promotion at the Co-op until tomorrow, down from £26.99 to £16.99. If that’s too rich for your blood, or budget, and you’re not bored with Bordeaux, French fizz Veuve du Vernay, has had a welcome facelift from its ’80s image, and was relaunched last year. It’s pretty chic, and great for some stylish swigging, for a mere £4.99 at Tesco (£2 off) for both the Brut NV and Rosé NV. We mentioned Montes Cherub last week – but here’s a reminder that the Syrah de Rosé ’08 is on promotion at £6.99 (from £8.99) at Tesco still today. The witty Ralph Steadman artwork featuring the cheeky little cherub makes it a fun yet quality choice for lovers everywhere. Thinking pink, the tried and true Fetzer Valley Oaks Syrah Rosé has a velvety rich bouquet of brilliant wild strawberries and juicy raspberries, from Booths, Thresher, and selected Co-ops, at £6.99. WHAT’S NEW: Vina Ventisquero is flying the green flag with its new look Yali Winemaker’s Selection Wetland Cabernet Carmenere ’07. It’s an intense ruby colour with cassis and spicy flavours, soft tannins and fresh finish, but it’s worth noting that the bottles weigh in nine per cent less than usual, and CO2 emissions have been offset on transportation too, as part of Yali’s partnership with the Wildfowl & Wetlands Trust (WWT). The range is named after El Yali Wetlands, situated in the same valley as the winery, and home to 25 per cent of the different bird species in Chile. Available at Majestic for £5.99 and a small donation is made to the WWT for each case sale.
Don’t forget to send your booze news, clubs, favourite finds, swigs and tips to jacqui.morley@blackpoolgazette. co.uk
Saturday, February 14, 2009
life!
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