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THE FOOD ISSUE

MAINLINE INFORMED. SOPHISTICATED. RELEVANT.

WHY ITALIAN GRANDMAS LOVE MARC VETRI AT POTTSTOWN’S RACINE, ONLY THE FOOD MAKES SENSE

COFFEE TALK

USING TOP-SHELF BEANS TO EXPOSE THIRD-WORLD LIVING

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WHERE TO SATISFY YOUR OLYMPIC-SIZE CURLING ADDICTION ISSUE

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MASTHEAD.

Publisher Jim Bauer Editor-in-Chief Scott Edwards Design Cantor Design, Inc. Contributing Writers Kristin Baver, Morrie Breyer Erica Chayes Fedderly, Cara Gavin Avery Greene, Jennifer Hetrick Mike Madaio, Yelena Strokin

Contributing Photographers Randl Bye, Thomas Robert Clarke Josh DeHonney, Hope Helmuth Nina Lea, Matthew J. Rhein Jacob Stephens, Yelena Strokin Todd Trice, Jason Varney

Bookkeeping Jana Dickstein Advertising Sales 610.417.9261 Ann Ferro, Bonny Kalman

Director of Sales & Marketing Mike Boucher Director of Events & Special Projects Kate Frey Founder Andrew Cantor

Life BUCKS

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BUCKS LIFE Magazine (ISSN 2154-4123) Vol. 6, No. 1, Issue 31. BUCKS LIFE Magazine is published bimonthly by Black Dog Media, Ltd., P.O. Box 682, New Hope, PA 18938; www.buckslifemag.com. ©2014 by Black Dog Media, Ltd. All rights reserved. MAINLINE Magazine (ISSN 2154-4093) Vol. 8, No. 6, Issue 48. MAINLINE Magazine is published bimonthly by Black Dog Media, Ltd., P.O. Box 682, New Hope, PA 18938; www.mainlinemag.com. ©2014 by Black Dog Media, Ltd. All rights reserved. Nothing herein may be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission of the publisher. Return postage must accompany all manuscripts, photographs, etc. if they are to be returned. Black Dog Media, Ltd. assumes no responsibility for unsolicited material. All letters will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes and are subject to Black Dog Media’s right to edit and comment editorially. All manuscripts, photos or material of any kind may be edited at the discretion of the editors. To be properly credited, all submissions must be accurately marked with the name, address and phone number of the contributor. Postage paid at the New Hope, PA, Post Office. POSTMASTER, send address changes to: Black Dog Media, Ltd. P.O. Box 682 New Hope, PA 18938 Subscription rate: $25 for 12 issues.

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EDITOR’S LETTER.

Our World of Arts Awaits Performance Series 2014 Vadym Kholodenko Van Cliburn Gold Medalist Tuesday, March 18

Assad Family Sunday, March 30

Anonymous 4 Thursday, April 3

New York Voices Thursday, April 17

Tickets: longwoodgardens.org

Working on our annual food issue has become the winter’s silver lining for me. The holidays come charging from nowhere and leave me bloated, hungover and dazed. And then: darkness. Three months of it, most likely. But this edition, maybe more so than any other during the year, fills me with hope. I tend to edit it as you likely read it, noting names of restaurants and markets to revisit, folding down the upper corners of pages with recipes that grab my appetite’s attention with both hands. Where the dead of winter can make the world feel desolate, the pages that follow will remind you, as they did me, that the oven’s hot, something delicious is cooking and you need only follow the scent to revelation. On page 44, we lay out the ultimate Valentine’s Day feast, leaving no need for guesswork or a reservation that should have been made, uh, a couple months ago. Banish the kids to the basement or, better yet, your parents’, follow the four recipes from the appetizer to dessert—claim them as your own; we’ll look the other way—kindle a couple of candles, uncork a favorite bottle and behold the power of a home-cooked, heartfelt meal. When there’s nothing left to celebrate and the walls start to close in, peep page 36. We asked two of the most innovative bartenders (sorry, mixologist is pretentious) in the region, Jamie Dodge of elements in Princeton, NJ, and Carmen Picard of SAVONA in Gulph Mills, to set us up with their go-to cocktails for staving off cabin fever. The stiff drinks that follow are as easy to make as they are likely to make you grateful for having nowhere you need to be for the afternoon. And then there are the people who make us oh-so grateful that we’ve finally cleared the phase of eating first, asking questions later, if at all. While we’re growing fond of the way terms such as small-batch, free-range and artisanal roll off our tongues, more chefs and business owners in our backyard are putting theory to practice and doing the hard thinking and heavy lifting necessary to make the romantic practical. Scott Anderson is standing at the front of that crowd. When elements opened a few years back, he drew a hard line: inventive dishes made only from local, sustainable food. The natural reaction was cynical. OK, man. See you in April. Anderson (see page 42) made us believers and, in the same strides, encouraged the movement that’s now taking grip as the new mainstream lifestyle. In May, his influence grew further still when he opened his second restaurant, Mistral, also in Princeton, and, overnight, it became a critical and crowd darling. On the other side of the Pennsylvania Turnpike, Greg Vassos is nursing the same unyielding determination, and ever-so-gradually Restaurant Racine (page 48), his small BYOB in Pottstown, is beginning to come up in conversations at regular intervals. Usually coupled with eyes rolling to the backs of heads and unashamed yearning. And in between them, Steve Hackman, a somewhat accidental entrepreneur, is accomplishing the impossible: narrowing the gaping void between the finickiest of consumers (small-batch coffee drinkers, which includes me) and their compassion for where their product originates (thirdworld countries). His Souderton-based One Village Coffee (page 30) began as an incredibly modest attempt to support one farmer half a world away. Today, there’s a bunch under his wing. The lure: some damn good beans. It’s not a closely-guarded secret that us coffee drinkers are addicts, and when you’re scoring stuff that good, you want to make sure you never run dry. It’s not the ideal, but it’s something. All my best, Scott Edwards

Editor-in-Chief

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Every Place Tells a Story Orchid Extravaganza Now–March 30

Spring Blooms April 5–May 23

Festival of Fountains May 24–September 1

New Meadow Garden Opening Summer 2014

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LOOK BETTER OVER LUNCHTIME! MEET

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Dr. Benjamin Lam is a pioneer in the plastic and reconstructive surgery world and one of the areas only double board certified plastic surgeons. His surgical techniques continue to be referenced in the most prestigious national publications and emulated by leading surgeons in this field. Dr. Lam's technological advances in the medical surgical industry have even been registered with the United States Patent office. He has a reputation for his skill, artistry and innovative work in all areas of plastic and reconstructive surgery, including breast implants, breast augmentation, tummy tuck (abdominoplasty) and liposuction. His patients can rely on receiving the highest standards of care. He assesses your problem areas and discusses what you are hoping to achieve in order to develop a treatment plan tailored to you. A fellow of both the American Academy of Cosmetic Surgery and American College of Plastic Surgeons, Dr. Lam is the past President of the Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery Section of the American College of Osteopathic Surgeons (ACOS), Associate Director of the Plastic Surgery Residency at the Philadelphia College of Osteopathic Medicine, and is also a Clinical Associate Professor at Drexel University. He is a highly respected

national speaker as well as a published author in the esteemed medical journal, Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. Dr. Lam's published article, "Use of Alloderm" With over 20 years of experience of training and practice, Dr. Lam is widely recognized for his advancements in facial rejuvenation, breast surgery and body contouring. At the forefront of Dr. Lam's success is his commitment to understanding each patient's individual needs and goals. This patient-first philosophy combined with Dr. Lam's surgical artistry and expertise has allowed thousands of men and women from playboy playmates to soccer moms achieve exceptional aesthetic results.

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CONTENTS. THE FOOD ISSUE

48 Pottstown, Really? The eating’s never been so good there. Which begs a bunch of questions, namely, why Pottstown?

30 Now that You’re Hopped Up on Caffeine, a Word High-end coffee beans start the conversation, but not the one you’re expecting (and probably dreading)

Editor’s Letter

LIFE. 16

For Parents on the Brink

In Bryn Mawr, a sprawling playroom for kids and breathing space for parents in dire need

18

Trending

Indulging in French-style luxury linens and obscure-designer denim fit for every occasion

22

Recreation

You won’t need to look far to satisfy your new curling addiction once the Olympics are over

EATS. 42

It’s Not About the Farm

That Scott Anderson’s ingredients are local should go without saying. Now, let’s move on

44

Home Cooking

Forget the reservation you already forgot to make and cook your own Valentine’s Day feast

46

Side Order

With the opening of Tradestone Confections, our envy of the French and Belgians ends

50

The Last Word

After years of flailing, we’re no longer too proud to take style advice from a bulldog

AT LARGE. 24

38 Wish You Were Here

A River Runs Through Her

Maya van Rossum always stood up to bullies, only now they’re corporations and congressmen

26

A Kinder Pursuit of Perfection Marc Vetri isn’t a household name—yet— but he’s one of the most revered chefs in our backyard, and in the country

A few hours away, it’s already summer. But that’s only the tip of paradise at a pair of plush, seaside resorts

34

Interior Design

It’s time to start designing a kitchen that’s conducive to more than just cooking

36

Spirits

Five easy-to-make cocktails to ease the burden of an endless, house-arrest kind of afternoon

14

COVERS BUCKS LIFE and MAINLINE: Photography and styling by YELENA STROKIN (www.melangery.com). See “A Feast for Two,” page 44.

PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT): JOSH DEHONNEY; MATTHEW J. RHEIN; COURTESY OF HERMITAGE BAY

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BUCKS


PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT): JOSH DEHONNEY; MATTHEW J. RHEIN; COURTESY OF HERMITAGE BAY

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Life. Walls starting to close in around you? Fighting the urge to change the locks one day next week while the kiddies are at school? If Christmas is the most wonderful time of the year, then this—this is hell. But there’s a lifeline in the form of a sprawling, airy space in Bryn Mawr that’s loaded with enough toys to keep even a gang of ADHD five-year-olds blissfully occupied for a few hours. And entire walls pleading to be tagged by graffiti artists-inthe-making. And nooks where the LEGOs run so deep, your child couldn’t possibly cram all of them down his pants at once. Wait, there’s more. There’s a nirvana within this nirvana: a café that sits in plain sight so that you can pretend to watch but just enough out of the way that your kids’ll forget you’re there, and vice versa. You can gush your thank-you’s to Lauren Ainsworth on your way in. She opened the 4,000-square foot Play Café in November out of necessity, as you can undoubtedly relate. “I [felt] alienated as a working mother,” she says. “I realized that I had some ideas of my own and a vision for a place like this that didn’t perfectly match any others I’d seen.” The birth of her second child (both are girls, Lucy and Maren) delivered her to a crossroads in her career. It was now or never, Ainsworth decided. With both of her daughters under five, she built The Play Café according to her personal specs. Three months in, even working 60-hour weeks to get the business off the ground, she found the freedom to be a full-time mom. Her way back in, ironically, is your way out, for an afternoon, at least. —CARA GAVIN INSIDE: 18 > Trending 22 > Recreation

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PHOTO BY JOSH DEHONNEY

Breathing Space for Parents on the Brink

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LIFE. TRENDING

BONS RÊVES | Downplaying Elegance While living in Geneva, Switzerland, where her husband worked in the fragrance industry, Marcy Weinstein fell captive to the French aesthetic: eccentric flourishes set off against a muted palette of soft blues, slate grays and warm browns and creams. Eclectic, but never overwrought. Fashionable, yet inviting. Before long (in October 2012, specifically), she was arranging neat stacks of tranquilizing bed linens and cozy bath towels in the same hues around an intimate, hyper-edited shop all her own. The building’s historic, the floors are hardwood and the fireplace works. It’s as though she assembled it all, right down to the last bar of milled soap, from a photographic memory. Outside, you’re on North Union Street in Lambertville, NJ. Inside, you’re on Boulevard Saint-Germain. The Louisa coverlet by Traditions Linens ($290 to $470), available in cotton and a cotton-linen blend, is an easy way in. Stonewashed for a mild vintage effect and soft enough to coax sleep from the most tightly-knotted minds. Intended to gently steer you from a hot bath to that beckoning bed, the collection of small-batch-made Barr-Co. soaps ($14.50 to $29), shea butter lotion ($29) and hand and body cream ($26) are all scented with milk, oatmeal, vanilla and vetiver, which, if you’ve never heard of it, Weinstein assures is “incredibly soothing.”

SHOP SIXTY FIVE | Mashing Up Modes Linda LaRosa, the owner of the definitive denim capital of Bucks County, Shop Sixty Five, in Doylestown, turned her attention to the Main Line with the October opening of a Gladwyne boutique, her second. Here, in a posh, retrofitted-loft-style space, the former celebrity stylist (Naomi Campbell, Portia de Rossi) and fashion editor for Harper’s Bazaar and Elle culls a collection of iconic and exploding designers—Helmut Lang, rag & bone/JEAN, Raquel Allegra, Cut25 by Yigal Azrouel—bonded by their immodest ambitions for women’s fashion. And then, of course, there’s the same swoon-inducing jeans stockpile that prompted Lucky magazine to fawn over the flagship. The labels run the complete gamut from the rock stars—7 for all mankind, Diesel, True Religion—to the indie headliners—CURRENT/ELLIOTT, GENETIC, Hudson. Spring will trigger a growth spurt with the introduction of Zadig & Voltaire and Falerio Sarti and tastes of flavors to come in the form of trunk shows by Cynthia Vincent and Miguel Ases. Versatility is Shop Sixty Five’s calling card, and it’s maybe best epitomized by a crystal and gold necklace from Erickson Beamon’s Velocity collection ($785). It uproots a simple tee-and-jeans ensemble and fortifies a classic black cocktail dress. So many of the handbags and shoes and much of the jewelry are two-way players because, tempted as you may be to dress up, the denim bar’s pull is undeniable. But the jeans themselves can go either direction, too, depending on what they’re paired with. Though more often than not, it’s up. When Milly’s silky short-sleeve, rhinestone-studded top ($375), qualifies as a tee, none of this can be described as Sunday-afternoon, “Breaking Bad”-marathon-wear. 342 Righters

Mill Road, Gladwyne; 484-417-6675; www.shopsixtyfive.com —AG 18

PHOTOS COURTESY (TOP) BONS RÊVES / JACOB STEPHENS AND HOPE HELMUTH; (BOTTOM) SHOP SIXTY FIVE / TODD TRICE

18 North Union Street, Lambertville; 609-460-4237; www.bonsreves.com —AVERY GREENE

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Addison Wolfe Real Estate A BOUTIQUE REAL ESTATE FIRM WITH GLOBAL CONNECTIONS

RALPH STOVER MANSION: This 1780 stucco over stone mansion still exudes the graciousness and sophistication that has been part of its essence throughout the centuries. Located in the heart of the Hamlet of Pt. Pleasant, Ralph Stover Mansion is both an exceptional private home and working Bed & Breakfast. This property is zoned for a community center, school, library,day care center,nursing home,medical use,office, $795,000 funeral home and many others.

CHERRY LANE: The stone and stucco facade blends perfectly within the Bucks County design sensibility.The master bedroom is conveniently located on the first. The spacious room and extravagant master bath are a sensual high point to the home.The 4,500 sq. ft. home is further enhanced by an additional 2,100 sq.ft.finished lower level.The additional area could be used as an extra bedroom,theater or playroom. Or,an excellentAu pair suite with private bath. $1,125,000

RAVENWOODS: Totally renovated home. In every direction,there are walls of glass.The Great Room offers dramatic ceiling,a large triangular window that becomes the focal point and a very beautiful stone fireplace. The master bedroom is large and inviting and the sumptuous master bath resembles a private spa. There is a full separate in-law suite. Hot tub pavilion, in-ground pool with pool house and stone walls, etc. complete this manageable estate. $1,145,000

ONE OF A KIND: This modern, light filled 4 Bedroom home sits in a private compound in Solebury Township. Features include Open design, Gourmet kitchen, big Family Room, separate Studio/Office suite over 4 car garage, 3½ baths with designer fixtures, finished walkout basement,and plenty of storage. Entire property is fenced, with mature landscaping, free form Pool, Gazebo, and large sunny Lawn and Gardens. Must see to appreciate all that this has to offer. $1,195,000

BOXWOOD MANOR: When you approach Boxwood Manor, your senses are overwhelmed by the beauty and unique park-like characteristics of the property itself. Three flagpoles mark the entrance which leads to beautiful French gardens, a Zen garden, English boxwood hedges, a meandering stream with bridges, statuary and an impressive pergola that all come together to create a living canvas similar to the work of Seurat. Through the Porte-cochère, you can see the serene and inviting naturalized pool setting. $1,495,000

THE CUTTALOSSA MILL: This circa 1847 home is reflective of older Bucks County. The structure, located on one of the most beautiful and coveted roads in all of Bucks County, resembles a barn or a country lodge.The large Great Room has all wood floors with a large stone fireplace. The eat-in kitchen has all new counters, appliances and fixtures and is adjacent to the generous sized dining room. The grounds are low maintenance and have wonderful patios and decks. The list goes on and on... $1,195,000

RIDGEVIEW FARM: A totally custom home built by a contractor for his own family. The home is set back nicely from the road and allows for generous backyard for children or a future pool.The original Great Room has a wood burning fireplace and the newer, expanded secondary Great Room boasts vaulted ceilings.The eatin kitchen offers stainless steel and granite,a large pantry and large windows that frame the backyard.The finished lower level is a perfect location for a home $799,000 theater/playroom.

CUTTALOSSA FARM: This property holds an iconic position in Bucks County's history. This 18th century homestead was once the studio of famed Impressionist Painter Daniel Garber. Garber's fame coupled with the extraordinary beauty of Cuttalossa Farm, has created a living canvas that has been photographed, included in poetry and the site of many fashion shots ... more than any other property in the area. A manor home, the Garber Studio, full cottage, streams and sheep farm with waterwheel complete the package. $2,995,000

TRUNNEL HYLL is “green” with envy. Its architectural beauty lies in the fusion of period perfect barn structures with the highest level of interior amenities. But, in conjunction with this superb construction, many of the most advanced systems are employed as well. The home features a state of the art Geothermal heating and cooling system.Trunnel Hyll was well thought out and planned by the builder and his team to create a home that has the beauty of yesteryear and the sensibility of today’s engineering. As Is. $1,725,000

For property information contact Art Mazzei directly at (610) 428-4885

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LIFE. RECREATION

Couch Potato to Olympic Wannabe After finding himself strangely entranced by a sport he thought was only played by a bunch of eccentric Canadians, Mike Madaio set out to scratch his Olympic-size itch. It was sometime during the wee hours of a frozen February night, and I was cocooned in my living room watching curling. Not because I couldn’t sleep and it was the only thing on but because I couldn’t look away. An hour earlier, my only knowledge of the sport was derived from fleeting rundowns of matches that would never find their way into the Olympics broadcast. But this was 2002, the first Winter Olympics that NBC televised across its family of networks, and the stepchildren were finally getting some attention, too. Albeit, at 2 a.m. on CNBC. The matches piled up on my TiVo over the next couple of weeks and I watched every last one. And the more I watched, the more I thought, I think I could do this. But how would I do it? The only places where curling was played recreationally, as far as I could tell, were Minnesota and Canada. A report soon surfaced that curling was catching on as a result of the coverage. I was half-listening until it referenced a club in Paoli. And then my heart was racing. I was going to curl after all. 22

KEVIN STAYER FOUNDED THE BUCKS COUNTY CURLING CLUB, BUT HE STILL RETURNS TO PAOLI FOR SOME ACTION.

The Philadelphia Curling Club (www.philadelphiacurlingclub.org), of which I am a proud member, meets and scrimmages in a small, odd-shaped building that sits on Paoli’s Plank Avenue. Some combination of members is there every day October through March. Among our ranks are men and women, kids as young as five, or “little rockers,” as we refer to them, on up to the senior set. Curling, as most sports do, has a language of its own—hacks and hogs, buttons, runbacks—and we happily pepper our conversations with it. After each match, we raise a glass. It’s equal parts competition and camaraderie. The founding members first swept rented ice at Villanova University in 1957. The Paoli building was bought in the mid-sixties. Membership tends to swell during Winter Olympics years like this one, to the extent

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Outdoor Living at Its Finest

PHOTOS BY MATTHEW J. RHEIN

that now we plan a series of open houses around the coverage. This should be an especially fruitful winter, with the IceWorks Skating Complex in Aston hosting this year’s USA Curling Nationals championship in March. If you find yourself compelled by the Olympics, plan to see a match in person. The disproportionately-raucous crowds and the constantly-clanging cowbells add yet another layer to the eccentric experience. Back in 2010, when we started to crowd each other on the ice, Kevin Stayer and his wife, Jane, took it upon themselves to find some more of it closer to home. Their search led them to a rink in Warminster—just in time for its foreclosure. So, naturally, they bought it. “We were looking for an investment property at the time. Serendipity struck, so we took the opportunity,� Kevin says. Of course, “it was much more work than we originally thought,� he says, as Jane rolls her eyes, “but it’s running smoothly now.� Home for their spinoff, The Bucks County Curling Club (www.buckscountycurlingclub.org), is the Bucks County Ice Sports Center. There, Kevin and Jane stage two-session intro-to-curling classes ($75)—the next one’s planned for March—that are meant to serve as a pipeline to the club’s league, which competes Sunday nights for six weeks at a time. From the couch to competition-ready in a couple of weeks. With how many other Olympic sports could you pull that off? 2014 USA Curling Nationals, March 1 through March 8, IceWorks Skating Complex, 3100 Duttons Mill Road, Aston, 2014usacurlingnationals.com.

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AT LARGE.

A River Runs Through Her

INSIDE: 26 > Catalyst 30 > Visionary 34 > Interior Design 36 > Spirits 38 > Travel

24

PHOTO BY JOSH DEHONNEY

Before she became the Delaware Riverkeeper, a lawyer and an outspoken advocate for the watershed she calls home, a pint-sized Maya van Rossum honored nature as only a child could. In elementary school, van Rossum, 48, recalls adamantly asking faculty to get her a shovel so she could bury a bird that had flown into a large window. “I can still picture the whole thing,” she says. “I felt a compulsion to honor this dead bird.” It became a regular ritual as more creatures succumbed to the same fate, though none of her teachers ever stepped in to help her devise a plan to stop it. This early environmental activism was inspired by her parents, a mathematician and a biochemist who embraced reusable cloth bags and composting years before they became part of the mainstream consciousness. “It was just the way we lived our life. You didn’t talk about it. You just did it.” As she grew, van Rossum found herself physically getting between bullies and her most brutally-teased classmates, driven by a need to defend the defenseless. For the last two decades, as van Rossum raised two children and four stepchildren with her husband in Bryn Mawr, that scrappy righteousness matured into a focused environmentalism. “When I look at the river and I see the trees that have been shamelessly, needlessly, cut down ... I really feel about these elements of nature the same way as the girls I stood up for. These are parts of my community that are wrongly targeted and abused.” Her passion is a family affair at times; van Rossum’s children have been held by legislators and charmed the heads of environmental agencies, occasionally speaking out at meetings and joining their mother on the water. “If I’m going to a meeting and there’s a child to be cared for, they come with me,” van Rossum says. “I accomplish what I want to accomplish, which is really about protecting their future. It’s not work. It’s who I am and it’s my life.” —KRISTIN BAVER

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AT LARGE. CATALYST

A Kinder Pursuit of Perfection Quietly—by today’s standards, at least— Marc Vetri is building an empire that, upon its inception, sparked a citywide revolution and now, spilling—finally—into the suburbs, is threatening to make him a household name. Not that he’ll be fazed by it. By Erica Chayes Fedderly Marc Vetri. The name draws reverence in a number of elite circles: the early adaptor diners, rapidly-ascending and James Beard Award-winning chefs and, maybe most impressively, Italian grandmas. Vetri is one of this generation’s greatest chefs, not in Philadelphia, but in the United States. That may read as pure exaggeration if you haven’t dined at one of his six restaurants—the most recent of which, Osteria, an offspring of the Center City original, opened in November in Moorestown, South Jersey, Vetri’s first outside of city limits—because the kings and queens of today’s culinary kingdom are highly-rated TV personalities too, and Vetri is not. But that shouldn’t imply that he’s not worthy of the same treatment. Within its first two years, Vetri, his Spruce Street flagship, which knocked off its 15th anniversary in September, earned Craig LaBan’s highest rating. That coincided with Vetri’s inclusion in Food and Wine’s collection of the “Top 10 Best Chefs” that year. Vetri’s role in Philly’s fledgling restaurant revolution became immediately apparent: pioneer. More accurately, catalyst, because he was mostly the reason for the change—in the quality of the food, the authenticity of the atmosphere and, eventually, the perception. By the time Vetri collected his James Beard Award as the Mid-Atlantic’s best chef, Philadelphia was finally starting to shed its reputation as the cheesesteak capital of the world from the inside out. Name that dessert When I meet Vetri at the second-edition Osteria, he greets me in cargo pants and a sweater rather than an over-starched, white chef’s jacket. His eyes have a calming effect, even within close proximity to the healing wound on the slope of his nose. He leads me to a quiet corner table, away from two other lively dining rooms where, among the early dinner rush, a family shares the wild boar Bolognese by the forkful and a couple hovers close together over a fig, gorgonzola and speck pizza. Along the way, I tell Vetri how I enjoyed a video of him and his buddy, Phil Roy, jamming in Los Angeles back in 2011. His interest landing somewhere around the middle of the broad spectrum between nonchalant and acquisitive, he leans in and asks to watch it. His video suggested that he’s as mellow as the music he played, and his reaction confirms it. It occurred to me in the midst of watching together that both his cooking and his music seem to trace a similar restrained flow. “I could hum five notes and you’ll know the song,” Vetri says in response, and then he hums the chorus to “Raindrops Keep Fallin’ on my Head.” “You remember the dishes that have simple ingredients. Flavor, 26

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AT LARGE. CATALYST MARC VETRI (OPENING PAGES) IS REDEFINING ITALIAN COOKING AND A CITY’S REPUTATION.

Taking one for the team Every Saturday, Vetri and Brad Spence and Rob Shire, chefs and partners in the Vetri Family restaurant group, their kids in tow, head for a Brazilian jujitsu class together. With minimal prompting, Spence and Shire launch into the story behind the scar on Vetri’s nose. Vetri leaves us be for a while, but he eventually doubles back and delivers the punchline to his own ridicule. “We did a fight against the main guy, a black belt, aaaaaaand … he kicked my ass,” Vetri says. Spence and Shire double over laughing. They put him up to it. The battle wound is a few weeks old but still very much ripe for the picking. It’s the kind of display, both the mismatched sparring and the recounting of it, that underlines just how beloved, genuinely, Vetri is by the people he spends the bulk of his time with. It’s rare in this business. In restaurant kitchens, bonds tend to be forged as quickly and as deeply as they are among bandmates. But they also burn up at the same rate. That rapid onset of love and then hate is fueled all the more by growth and fame, and there’s been plenty of both in Vetri’s life as of late. But here, now, respect pervades. “In the kitchen, we share the same mindset,” Shire says. “There is zero competition. We all work together to make the food better.” The music and the Brazilian jujitsu are outlets, but cooking is constant. Vetri is harmonious by nature, which goes a long way toward maintaining the equilibrium in volatile environments. But it’s his singular focus on Italian food that rallies chefs who could easily have their own Food Network series in a season or two. The pursuit of perfection jades some. In Vetri’s case, it seems to have had the opposite effect, crystallizing his curiosity and dedication. He’ll never stop pursuing, which means his following, in and out of the kitchen, will only grow in numbers and loyalty. 28

The Panino that Transformed My Life I supposed my time in Italy would be spent in the kitchen, pondering things in broken Italian and chopping piles of verdant greens. Instead, I ended up here: The Golden Egg. Famous among the Varese locals for almost four decades prior to my arrival, the panini shop could easily haven been mistaken for a closet. Accompanying me on the only bench in the room was a beer mug with a handle so thick it ached the space between my fingers. A mahogany-eyed man shouted my name—from a couple feet away—with the rollercoaster intonation typical of Sicilians and then handed over my panino. Within a crispy, sourdough shell, foie gras, funghi and prosciutto were doused with a sharp senape. It was not at all what I expected—the sandwich or, for that matter, Italy—though I pride myself on keeping an open mind. At first bite, the panino was good. A revelation, really. The whole was complex and completely new, yet the pieces were mostly familiar. As the flavors melded on my tongue, I picked up on a salty film, a sensation that immediately drew me into a flashback where I was sitting on the kitchen floor at age five munching on a raw hot dog. And with that, it was time to swallow my unrequited expectations. From then on, with every mouthful washed down with hefeweizen, I wanted to export myself back to my roots. Back through Germany, where the people, like me, are as tall and pale as their ales. Back through England, allowing Europe to resonate like the perfumes of a hearty meal hangs in a living room filled with satiated bellies and hungry minds. I wanted to be swallowed by a cozy east coast kitchen where my palate could now be spry and seasoned. —ECF

PHOTOS COURTESY OF VETRI FAMILY RESTAURANT GROUP

texture and feel—they just warm you.” For one of the signature dishes at Vetri’s eponymous restaurant, dough made from egg yolks and low-gluten flour is hand-rolled until it’s translucent. It’ll become the base for an almond tortellini that’s decadent, yet lighter than a paper airplane. The filling is comprised of three ingredients: risotto, parmesan and almonds. The risotto is reduced until it turns into a paste. Then it’s mixed with the crushed almonds and finely-grated parmesan. The topping—simpler still—is a butter-andwhite truffle sauce. No less straightforward than a catchy chorus, and every bit as unforgettable. Though, in this case, it’s not annoying. Vetri names obscure guitarists Joe Pass and Scott Henderson among his greatest musical influences. In contrast, Roy, a former roommate of Vetri’s, has written songs for the legendary Ray Charles and Joe Cocker. Vetri and Roy have met up at the original Osteria about four times a year for the last few years to play together. They even slapped an official name on it, “Sounds Good, Tastes Good”—of course food’s involved—and sell tickets. Roy moved further away recently, so the series is on hiatus. But they managed to meet up in mid-December, when they played at the Palm Beach Food and Wine Festival in front of the likes of Daniel Boulud, David Burke and Todd English.

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AT LARGE. VISIONARY

The (Espresso) Shot Heard ‘Round the World

Exotic origins usually translate to jacked-up pricing in coffee talk. But for a Souderton roaster, they’re an easier excuse to start a much, much larger conversation. By Scott Edwards

Within a sentence, maybe two, a conversation that originated with the impetus behind One Village Coffee, a modest, family-owned roaster, launches from a small, communal room in the outfit’s home base in Souderton and lands in a village in the southern delta region of Nigeria. Before you roll your eyes, this isn’t the ostentatious display that we’ve come to expect with all reference to the sourcing of quality foodstuff, done so that we can begin to grasp the price of authenticity. No, Steve Hackman, the owner and president of One Village Coffee, was invested, physically and emotionally, in this longneglected place well before coffee was anything more to him than sustenance. In fact, it’s close to a half-hour before he brings the explanation full circle, and even then, he needs to be reminded to close the circle and explain how exactly One Village is intertwined. Hackman boils it down to an effort to support one novice coffee farmer. But, really, the wells he helped dig, the farmland he helped buy, the cassava factory he helped fund, the school he’s helping to construct, all of that are the reasons why. In the 20 years that Hackman’s known Dr. Emenike Ukazim and his wife, Chidi, both professors at Montgomery County Community College who emigrated from Nigeria to the United States 35 years ago, he’s visited the community that they left a dozen times, all of the aforementioned work undertaken not by a foundation but by their two families. It was through the Ukazims and those trips that Hackman came to meet and, later, host Bala Usman, who runs a nonprofit in Nigeria. During his stay, Usman mentioned that he started growing coffee to supplement his meager income. Hackman’s son Scott and Aaron Peazzoni, now the finance manager of One Village Coffee, were brainstorming business endeavors at the time. Hearing this, they knew immediately what they needed to do: import and sell Usman’s coffee. Scott’s wife, Andrea, and Rob Altieri, now the sales director, were brought into the fold soon after, and in March 2007, the first batch of One Village Coffee beans (which were not Usman’s) were roasted and packaged in the basement of Steve Hackman’s farmhouse, about a mile up the road from where we sit now. 30

The sound investment It may be second nature to him, but Hackman seems to need to regularly remind himself that he’s developing a business, not a charity. A pediatric respiratory therapist by trade, he was a part-owner in a lucrative homecare company based in Philadelphia. He describes himself as a salesman foremost, but he’s a thoughtful, empathetic man before that. That’s how he and his wife, Lois, raised their family, and that’s how he’s raising One Village Coffee. (Scott and Andrea are no longer involved in the daily operations, though they’re both a part of a Family Counsel Advisory Team.) Locally, Hackman and One Village have donated to Chosen 300 Ministries enough coffee to cover 100,000 meals in each of the last four years. Abroad, they’ve pledged a portion of the sales from One Village’s Artist Blend to Fair Trade USA to benefit the COSMA Cooperative in Honduras. It’s not reaching to say that the coffee is a means to a greater good. “It takes us to those areas of the world where we like to be involved and feel like we can have a little bit of an impact,” says Hackman, whose closecropped white hair sits at odds with his boyish face. “I love those kinds of environments. I love those people because they have so much to give.” Instead of easing into retirement after the sale of his homecare company, Hackman enlisted in Stephen’s Children, a faith-based foundation that cares for the children who populate Cairo’s slums. Often, he visited Nigeria with the Ukazims and then continued on to Egypt on his own. Bala Usman and his plight provided the inspiration, but practicality stood in the way of the business relationship developing any further. His beans were, and still are, just too young. But Hackman did have a hand in installing a couple of wells for him, erecting a fence around his farm and buying livestock to fill it. He even contributed to the salaries of some of the teachers at the school Usman founded. After One Village Coffee opened for business, Hackman returned to Nigeria with a Whole Foods coffee buyer who led a series of workshops for local farmers on the basics of cultivating the finicky bean. Near the end of their stay, they were picked up and delivered—by an “entourage”—to the home of a government official who wanted to formally establish the partnership.

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“But, I mean, I’m not a Starbucks or anything like that, so I couldn’t really do a whole lot,” Hackman says. “I just said, ‘When I can, I’d like to source your coffee. But I don’t know when that’ll be or how we would do that.’ There wasn’t a whole lot to be said, but he really appreciated the education.” It’s easy to trace the root of the misunderstanding. In a country that long ago accepted its exploitation by outsiders—not that there was much choice in the matter—Hackman was an anomaly because his motivation was good will, not profit. Re-educating a Wawa regular Stamped with their countries of origin—Ethiopia, Brazil, Costa Rica, Papua New Guinea—and pulled taut by 130 pounds of coffee beans, a few burlap sacks lay in a haphazard pile on a pallet.

THE HUBBUB ON

HUBBUB

File under “The Rich Get Richer.” HubBub Coffee is among an increasingly-appetizing crop of tenants who plan to open up shop at the under-construction retail development on Radnor-Chestnut Road in Radnor. HubBub launched in 2009 as a coffee truck—the first in Philly to serve specialty drinks—stationed down the street from UPenn. The Radnor café, which is expected to be pouring the signature flat white by late

They arrived at the One Village Coffee warehouse, which extends off the office, by way of the Edison, New Jersey-based importer and wholesale supplier, Royal Coffee New York, Inc. One Village pulls from the top 10 percent of an almost-absurdly-select inventory: organic, Fair Trade, shade-grown and mostly-bird-friendly. A pallet stacked with 12 burlap sacks is delivered three times a week. On average, One Village roasts 500 pounds of beans a day, Monday through Friday, which is divided among roughly 70 coffee shops spread along the east coast (with the highest concentration in Greater Philly, naturally), 47 (and counting) Whole Foods, a smattering of gourmet markets and, by Hackman’s account, a modest amount of Internet sales. Hackman is surprisingly forthcoming with the financial talk. The annual revenue, he says, is on the north side of $1 million. There were an awful lot of one-on-one meetings and in-store demonstrations that fed that growth, much of it done by Hackman himself. He’s prepared to be more aggressive in the name of his long-term target: $5 million in yearly sales. (Actually, his stated goal is to hit $5 million in sales, which would then enable him to bankroll small businesses in remote corners of Africa that could have massive impacts on the surrounding communities, like the cassava factory.) He’s considering opening cafés, though he wrestles with the words as soon as he says them, realizing immediately that he skipped too many steps to share this with me. In spite of how this profile leans up to this point, Hackman’s mind is not halfway around the world. He entered into this a blissfullyignorant Wawa coffee drinker. But now, scooping raw beans with a cupped hand in the warehouse, he talks articulately and unpretentiously. Even more, he admits that he’s just begun to scratch the shell, and then he goes on to prove it by peppering his roaster, Steve Hoffman, with questions. At a far corner of the warehouse, where the distance from the floor to the ceiling runs about the same as from wall to wall, Hoffman, bundled in a black fleece jacket and a matching knit hat, presides over the squat, flamingred roaster. He rarely strays farther than across the room, not unlike a chef with his oven. Thirty unchecked seconds are when catastrophes happen, so he obsessively checks his timer, the roaster’s digital temperature reading

spring, will be HubBub’s third brick-and-mortar location, and its second to open since late October. You can expect the usual assortment of made-to-order, hand-crafted coffees, all brewed with Stumptown beans. There will be pastry too, of course, but considering the neighbors—Honeygrow, Estia Taverna, Pietro’s Pizza and Jimmy John’s—you’d be wise to consider grazing. —SE blackdogmedialtd.com

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THE RESPONSIBILITY PLEDGE, ECHOED AROUND THE OFFICE AND EMBODIED BY THE OWNER, STEVE HACKMAN (PREVIOUS PAGE).

sions. It’s clear now, if it wasn’t before, that nothing can be left to chance. It may all be in service to something bigger, but when you’re catering to an audience of jittery and particular coffee drinkers (addicts, more like, and I can say this because I am one), it’s the brew that captivates them, not the good deeds. Until the caffeine takes hold, at least.

PHOTOS BY JOSH DEHONNEY

because roasting coffee beans is equal parts math, science and skill, a finger-length sampling. He is the personification of small-batch roasting. Hoffman’s relatively new to One Village Coffee, but he fits the mold: well-versed, experienced, diligent. Hackman’s leaned on his kind while he honed his own palate and, in turn, his business. It’s Hoffman, along with lead roaster Woody Decasere and production manager Anne Brown, who conducts the daily cupping sessions. Hackman sometimes sits in but usually just listens. Altieri, his sales director, is instituting an education program for cafés that grew out of spontaneous question-and-answer ses-

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478 North Main Street Doylestown Shopping Center (next to ACME) Doylestown, PA

Mon-Sat: 11:30am-Close Sun: 1pm-Close

Mon-Thurs 11am-9pm / Fri- Sat 11am 10pm / Sun: 11am-8pm

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AT LARGE. INTERIOR DESIGN

Rethinking the Kitchen It’s time to tear down some walls, figurative and literal, and design a space that’s conducive to more than cooking. If it ever was that in the first place. By Morrie Breyer

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I love designing kitchens. In fact, I’m never quite sure why it isn’t the full scope of my practice. Part of it is the rapid evolution of the kitchen as we’ve come to know it in recent years—every innovation breathlessly detailed in magazines, on TV, online and by showoffy neighbors. Considering how much time and energy we spend there, every added convenience is pretty exciting. But it’s not just that. Because the kitchen has become the hub of the modern home, I blur the conventional lines and blend it more seamlessly with the spaces around it. In this age, there’s no reason why the kitchen needs to be strictly practical while the living room sees all the fun. So, the challenge I happily embrace with every dysfunctional kitchen I’m drawn into is how to incorporate the design that envelops it without sacrificing any of the necessary-but-inhibiting features, namely the storage. I’ll never forget something a chef friend of mine—whose home kitchen, I designed—said to me: “Why are there always cabinets flanking a cooktop? I’m always hitting my head!” Re-examining a kitchen’s layout starts with asking such a question and then follows the domino effect that it usually triggers. We all clamor for more storage. It’s what we’ve been schooled by home renovation shows to do. But have you ever stopped to consider what you’re stocking your kitchen with— outside of food, of course? Streamlined as our lives may be throughout the rest of the house, in the kitchen, most of us are hoarders, and I’m as guilty as anyone. I could easily toss 30 percent of what I’ve got in there, starting with the space-sucking bread maker that’s never used. De-cluttered, I move on to the heavy lifting, removing all, or at least most, of the upper cabinets from an exterior wall. A span of windows goes up in their place. Some landscape screening may be in order, but you’re better off even with a view of a cell tower. Sunlight trumps everything. Then I tear out the pantry and any other walled-in nook to grow the floor area. If the house is on the smaller side, I may even remove a wall to open the kitchen into a living or dining room. Gone are the days that mandated a formal separation anyway. A mobile butcher block-top table, custom-built or retrofit, makes the most out of precious square footage. By day, it’s an island. By night, a dining table. Installing a banquette along an end wall or in a corner dissolves the need to shuffle a bunch of chairs. Interior walls are designated for the cabinets. Tall cabinets. Here’s where I restore all the storage that was shed in the name of natural light and breathing room. If counter space is at a premium, I’ll carve out a nook within the cabinets that’ll hold the espresso machine.

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I preserve a span for the range alone. The only eye-level interference there should be the ventilation hood, which will run three inches wide of the range on each side. Tile or slab stone installed along the entire height of the wall, behind the hood, turns the hood into another design element. It also encourages some open shelving for easy access to a few everyday necessities. A modern kitchen is practical and ergonomic and, not least of all, inspiring. Today’s dinner parties settle in the kitchen before they ever—if they ever—reach the dining room. Thanks to minimalist technology and sleek designing, it can be conducive to both conversation and serious cooking. But even on a smaller scale, a revived kitchen tailored to your idiosyncrasies can have a dramatic effect on your life. The kitchen is, after all, your first impression of every day, is it not?

Morrie Breyer is the founder and principal designer of Breyer Studio (www.breyerstudio.com), in Pipersville.

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PHOTOS BY RANDL BYE

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KITCHEN: • Brand new EnergyStar rated appliances • Environmentally sustainable quartz countertops • Large kitchen island with breakfast bar • GE Profile 22 cubic ft. refrigerator with French Doors • GE Profile self-cleaning oven ®

• 2 full his and hers bathrooms • Master bath includes a walk-in shower with Carrera marble seat, a soaking tub, and an oversized linen closet • Mosaic tile flooring and radiant heat in all full bathrooms • Oversized laundry room with front loading washer and dryer

COMMUNITY FEATURES: • Newly renovated grand lobby • Just minutes from Rittenhouse Square • On-site management and 24/7 lobby concierge • Convenient to all forms of public transportation including SEPTA, PATCO and Amtrak • Additional tenant storage

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AT LARGE. SPIRITS

HOT BUTTER’D RUM Combine: 4 ounces apple cider 1½ ounces aged or spiced rum (Bacardi Oakheart, preferably) ½ ounce Licor 43 Heat the ingredients to just under 173 degrees in a microwave or on a stovetop (use caution, of course, if it’s gas) with a meat thermometer. In the meantime, combine the following in a glass coffee mug: 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 /8 tablespoon brown sugar 1 pinch cinnamon 1 dash Angostura bitters Once heated, pour the cocktail directly into mug and stir lightly. Sip once the butter is melted halfway.

GOLDEN BLOOD AND SAND In a mixing glass, combine: 1½ ounces blended scotch (Johnnie Walker Red Label, preferably) 1½ ounces dry vermouth 1½ ounces Luxardo Maraschino liqueur ½ ounce Amaro Nonino Quintessentia 1 /8 ounce simple syrup For the simple syrup, heat equal parts water and sugar until the sugar dissolves, then cool. Add ice to the mixing glass and stir. Strain into a martini glass, and garnish with a flamed orange peel.

CRAFTY CURRANT In a mixing glass, combine: 1 ounce fresh ginger root, peeled 1 /8 navel orange, including peel, diced Muddle the ginger and orange. Then add the following: 1½ ounces Plymouth Gin 1 ounce cranberry juice ½ ounce crème de cassis 1 /8 ounce simple syrup 1 egg white Firmly shake the ingredients, without ice, for 10 seconds. Then add ice and firmly shake for another 10 seconds. Pour the ingredients through a tea strainer into a coupe or martini glass. Finish with: 1 ounce ginger beer Garnish with a lime twist. Watch the cocktail slowly set, and sip once the layering has occurred.

STAVING OFF CABIN FEVER ONE SIP AT A TIME The resident bartenders of SAVONA and elements invest much time and labor in keeping their cocktail menus seasonal, locally-sourced and entirely distinct. So, we asked them to remind us why winter ain’t so god-awful. By Jennifer Hetrick A thoughtfully-crafted cocktail is one of the few surefire remedies for cabin fever. Considering the new lows to which this winter is divebombing, we consulted two of the most innovative barkeeps in our region and asked for their go-to recipes when the drink is the light at the end of a bleak day. The only catch: They should be simple enough for the home mixologist to whip up, preferably without a lot of online hunting for ingredients. 36

“Giving yourself a reward here and there throughout the day always helps to balance the struggles associated with winter,” says Carmen Picard, the beverage director at SAVONA, in Gulph Mills. “Of course, a luxury cocktail at the end of a painful day is my tried and true winter solvent.” And with that, we knew we’d bellied up to the right bar. The Hot Butter’d Rum, Crafty Currant and Golden Blood and Sand are courtesy of Picard. “I see the Hot Butter’d Rum as the perfect companion

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GARDEN CENTER

1-2 PUNCH

PHOTOS BY THOMAS ROBERT CLARKE

In a shaker, combine: 1½ ounces Mount Gay Eclipse Dark Rum ¾ ounce Aperol ½ ounce fresh orange juice ½ ounce fresh lime juice ½ ounce raw honey syrup 1 /8 teaspoon cayenne pepper 8 drops Bittermens ‘Elemakule Tiki bitters For the raw honey syrup, heat equal parts raw honey and water until the honey dissolves. At that point, let it cool before adding it to the shaker. Shake all of the ingredients vigorously and then double-strain them into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a flamed orange peel.

FIRE STARTER Over ice, combine: 1 ounce Laird’s Applejack ¾ ounce Campari ½ ounce Curaçao Liqueur ½ ounce Drambuie ½ ounce smoky scotch (Johnnie Walker Black Label, preferably) Stir for about 15 seconds, then strain over fresh ice. Garnish with the zest of a lemon peel.

for a cold evening and a good book,” he says. “The Crafty Currant is lively and would be an intriguing start to any dinner party. As for the Golden Blood and Sand, three words: fireplace and cigar.” The Crafty Currant is as nuanced as the Hot Butter’d Rum is simply comforting. “The creamy texture of the egg white is such a wonderful canvas for the strokes of spice and sweetness given by the ginger and crème de cassis,” he says. While the Golden Blood and Sand’s most prominent notes are a subtle smokiness and a dried-fruit tartness. Jamie Dodge, the bar manager at elements in Princeton, NJ, prescribes the 1-2 Punch and Fire Starter. “The 1-2 Punch I created to be more of a lighter, almost peachy drink that will set you in the mood and take you out of the cold funk, almost putting you on the beach,” he says. “It has a little bit of kick in it because of the cayenne pepper.” Dodge describes the Fire Starter as a sturdier cocktail, good for admiring a bitter afternoon from a wingback chair planted a foot from a fire, with ingredients that trade between smoky and slightly bitter. The idea here is to sip and savor the reality that you’ve got nowhere to be. Harsh as that may feel now, you’ll miss it in a couple of months.

LANDSCAPING

215.493.4226 1069 River Road Washington Crossing, PA 18977 www.seasonsgardencenter.com

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AT LARGE. TRAVEL

Paradise Calls Numbed out of your mind by winter yet? Here’s your lifeline: Little more than a four-hour flight away, there’s a place where the sun is always hot, the water, always inviting, and the easiest way to appreciate it is by doing absolutely nothing. By Scott Edwards White light gradually broke through the slats of the plantation shutters from floor to ceiling. As its brilliance increased, the sounds changed. The layered, high-pitched chirping from the tiny tropical birds that drowned out stretches of the dinner conversation and smothered my last halfawake thoughts was replaced with the disproportionately-thunderous boom of the knee-high waves landing on the pitched beach. My eyes opened to the twirling ceiling fan and drifted to my wife, still sleeping, on my right. A moment later, I was standing on coarse, beige sand, our bungalow 25 yards behind me, the pale green bay spreading toward the Caribbean Sea before me. And then I was wading in, after finding my landmark. The fresh cuts on my hands and feet were all the reminding I needed to enter and leave from the gap between the coral. It was barely past dawn and it was already nearly 80 degrees, even though it was overcast. The water was a degree or two cooler than a warm bath. A buoy to my left would be my starting point, a coral outcropping on the right, my finish line. They were separated by 200 meters of tranquil water. I marked my progress by the handful of bungalows that sat just behind the beach. The pace was casual, but it quickened some as I fell into a rhythm. When I finally lifted my head, the only noise was the sound of water lapping—the outcropping, me. I was aligned with a small bluff that, on land, served as the end of the beach. But here, it was a curtain pulled back to reveal a much deeper harbor, rimmed by small, unspoiled mountains. My breath caught, and just as fast the view shifted. Rods of sunlight pierced thick, gray clouds and turned the water turquoise around me and as far as I could see. Treading, I turned slowly to my left to absorb the entire panorama. When I reached the mouth of the bay, a towering rainbow bridged the cliffs to the south and the ones to the north. I jerked my head back behind me to see if anyone else was witnessing this. But the beach was empty. And a small sailboat anchored midway between the buoy and the outcropping sat still. The moment was completely mine. There’d be no way to describe it later where it wouldn’t sound oversaturated. But I know what I saw, and it’ll resonate with me for life. 38

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PHOTOS (THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE PAGE) COURTESY OF HERMITAGE BAY

AT HERMITAGE BAY, THE IMPOSSIBLE VIEW IS THE CENTER OF ATTENTION FROM EVERY POSITION.

Closing the circle We drove to the airport in a steady rain and 35 degrees. Five hours later, we were being settled on the veranda off the lobby at Hermitage Bay, a luxury resort that’s tucked along the west coast of Antigua, with a cool, damp, almond oil-scented washcloth to cleanse the body chased by an ice-cold mojito for the mind. As soon as the gate closed behind the taxi, the humid air thickened with the scent of exclusivity. Pathways lined with manicured walls of lush tropical plants weave among 25 private bungalows scattered along the beach and a hillside that overlooks it. The dense vegetation, I became convinced, was designed as camouflage as much as décor because it was easy to lapse into extended moments where it felt like we were the lone inhabitants of our own corner of Paradise. The reality wasn’t far off. We were two of maybe 20 during our stay. The outdoor teak shower threw us at first, as though any of the hillside occupants had nothing better to do with their vacations than gawk at us from their daybeds. But it became my favorite feature by the time we left. It embodied a lifestyle that was foreign to us when we shirked off our parkas and started unpacking. The temperature range for the week was eight degrees—85 during the day and 77 at night. “It stay like this year-round?” I asked the bartender during our first night. “Yup,” he replied. And then he flashed a wide smile, recognizing my expression, a cross between amazement and dread. I knew what waited at home. Between the agreeable climate and the immediate proximity of everything—the beach, the restaurant—our lives were simplified to the bare essentials—eat, drink, swim, shower, sleep—within hours. Midway through the first morning, my attention dug deep in a novel that I didn’t have the time to read for four months, I felt my heartbeat slow. It was like my body finally entered sleep mode. That night, standing under the rain shower, watching partially-illuminated clouds hurry around a jagged mountain, I had a profound thought: This was all I needed. Of course, that uncomplicated existence was fueled by many diligent people who furnished a drink when I was thirsty, a meal when my appetite awoke, a smile just in case I needed reminding that life does not, in fact, suck. That small, closed circle extended to the operation, too. At the rocky base of the hillside, out of view from anyone who doesn’t go lookblackdogmedialtd.com

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EATS. AT LARGE. SIDE ORDER TRAVEL ing for it, is a terraced organic garden in its infancy where lemongrass grows, along with squash, and avocados, and passionfruit and smallbatch crops of tens of other fruits and veggies. All of it will eventually be used at the resort’s restaurant, a short walk away. The lunch and dinner menus evolve daily, seafood, naturally, a constant staple (just as the fruit and jam are at breakfast), and, in most versions, placed in a local context: grilled halibut, salsa verde piled on top, coupled with roasted peppers, eggplant and onions; an olive-tomato-and-greens salad featuring a healthy portion of sushi-grade tuna. Our last night there, incapable of settling on appetizers and then suddenly remembering it was an all-inclusive resort, we discreetly asked the waitress if we could have all of them. “Is that all? Of course!” she said, promptly diffusing any awkwardness. We cleaned every plate and, later, felt less gluttonous when the couple at the next table over ordered all of the desserts. Coming out of our shell A 20-minute drive south from Hermitage Bay sits Curtain Bluff, a resort that’s perched on and around a steep peninsula, the beaches on either side shielded by Cades Reef. Just visible along the horizon: the alwayssmoldering volcano, Montserrat. Curtain Bluff opened in 1962 and remains under the ownership of the founding family. The longevity of that direct connection helped foster a devout following—one piece of marketing material boasted an almostunheard of 75 percent return rate—which continues to influence the environment. Most of the other guests during our stay were a generation older. (Though, the resort is very family-friendly.) The service, in turn, was more formal than we’d come to expect. Exchanges with the staff were limited to an as-needed basis. The Grape Seed, Curtain Bluff’s fine dining restaurant, was the clearest image of the resort in transition. The swarming, hyper-attentive service 40

TAKING IN THE SIGHTS AT CURTAIN BLUFF, WHERE THE BEACH IS PRIMED FOR LOUNGING AND WATER SPORTS BY DAY (OPPOSITE, BOTTOM) AND DINING BY NIGHT (OPPOSITE, TOP).

and a wine cellar that’s touted as one of the Caribbean’s deepest spoke to the old-school standard for hospitality and lust for excess. While the all-white, open-air dining room is distinctly contemporary (and felt, probably not coincidentally, like a clean canvas). The nice clothes requirement, considering the wide age range among the few tables of diners that night, only confused the perception more. The Italian-bent menu, accordingly, is progressive, yet pure. Frenchborn chef Christophe Blatz cooked under Alain Ducasse before arriving at Curtain Bluff nearly two decades ago. Then and now, a well-traveled chef compelled to fulfill the prodigious talent that was obvious to astute chefs from the onset. Our stay was bookended by a pair of buffet-style meals. By the time we arrived at the barbeque lunch, with just enough time to scarf down everything we could pile onto a plate before our airport-bound taxi showed, we learned to come starved. With absolutely no reference point, save for our meals earlier in the week at Hermitage Bay, the dishes were how I imagined the food that’s native to the humbling-butcolorful neighborhoods we drove through between the resorts: beautifully-grilled mahi mahi and snapper with salsa, paella, a cold, spicy carrot salad punctuated by raisins, seafood ceviche, crispy barbequed chicken that possessed an ethereal smokiness. These feasts also contributed to the communal spirit that seeped into so much of our Curtain Bluff experience. At first, it was unwelcome. Hermitage Bay encouraged a newfound appreciation of our privacy and the serenity that radiated from it. The extensive (read: exhausting) activity schedule—pilates, yoga, a scuba diving trip, afternoon tea, a horticultural tour of the gardens—that waited for us in our suite at Curtain

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PHOTOS (THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE PAGE) COURTESY OF CURTAIN BLUFF

Bluff felt like an assault on that just as we began to embrace it. We ate well that night, but we did so through an unspoken resolve not socialize. The next morning, we started to come around during a couples massage at the resort’s spa, which sits on an idyllic perch, midway up one side of the bluff. And come the afternoon, we boarded a chartered catamaran with 20 others for a tour of the southern coast. Somewhere during the course of dipping in and out of a couple tiny inlets and marveling at the tens of small flying fish leaping out of the royal blue water, we began to appreciate the company. And when we finally anchored in one of those inlets, along a short strip of public beach populated by a handful of sunbathers and a few dominoes players gathered around a shaded picnic table, it felt as though we’d planned the trip to together. We weren’t friends, exactly, but suddenly everyone seemed familiar enough. A picnic lunch prepared by The Grape Seed was unpacked and promptly devoured. Plantain salad, cucumber and tomato salad, lobster salad, more of that spicy carrot salad I came to adore, barbeque chicken and fruit, always fruit. We ate until we were stuffed and then we spilled into the shimmering water, one and two at a time, under a cloudless sky. Some snorkled. I floated. In time, I made my way back onto the catamaran, settling facedown across the cargo netting at the front. The hot sun above and the water gently rippling beneath coaxed me toward a semi-conscious state. The only thought that streamed through my head: This is one of those precious perfect days. Don’t get distracted. And I wasn’t, for the first time in as long as I could remember. In the weeks since, whenever I’ve needed to go to a happy place in my head, that afternoon is where I land. Hermitage Bay, St. John’s, Antigua; 855-562-8080; www.hermitagebay.com. Curtain Bluff, St. John’s, Antigua; 888-289-9898; curtainbluff.com.

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In the era of cocky celebri-chefs, Scott Anderson, the most innovative chef working in Philly’s suburbs today, exudes a refreshing humility when it comes to breaking down his work. “It just seems like everything I do in life has to do with food,” says Anderson, the chef and co-owner of the Princeton, NJ, restaurants elements, a critical darling, and Mistral, which has been every bit as beloved through its early going. Out of the kitchen, he’s usually either fishing or gardening, but there hasn’t been a lot of down time, especially since Mistral opened in May. Anderson has the kind of work ethic that refuses to acknowledge a cruise-control mechanism. His menus change nightly, and most feel as though they’re drawing Anderson out of his comfort zone. When elements opened a little over five years ago, Anderson adroitly pushed his passion for local and organic sourcing to the forefront of every interview. It was a distinguishing niche at a time when both were still novel concepts around here. With that kind of cooking now ingrained

in the mainstream, he wants nothing more than for the conversation to progress. “Where else does food fucking come from?” he pleads. The exasperation is as close to a rise as I’ll get out of Anderson. His unwavering grace earned him the nickname “Monk.” His open kitchen, employees and diners have remarked, is noticeably without chaos. Anderson prefers to build up his cooks, instilling in them confidence and a sense of adventure. Famously shy, his interaction with diners is mostly limited to those at the coveted chef’s table at elements, with whom he can talk while ensconced in the kitchen. Cooking will always come more naturally. Nuanced as the food may be, the cooking is kept as straightforward as the chef. “Take the best freshest ingredient from the most local source you can find and treat it simply and have fun while you’re doing it,” he says. The herbs, Anderson plucks from a modest garden in the parking lot at elements. It’s training, he quips, for the next generation of his career: farmer. “I’m not very good at sitting down anyway.” —KRISTIN BAVER

INSIDE: 44 > Home Cooking 46 > Side Order 48 > Best-kept Secret 50 > The Last Word

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PHOTO BY THOMAS ROBERT CLARKE

EATS. Focused on the Food, Not the Farm

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EATS. HOME COOKING

A Feast for Two Recipes, photography and styling by Yelena Strokin

A romantic Valentine’s Day dinner out is almost always better in theory than in practice. Even if you have the wherewithal to make a reservation a month, even two, in advance, you’ll probably end up in an overcrowded restaurant, frustrated with the noise level and the wait for everything. All that trouble when the alternative is commonsensical: Make the dinner yourself. Sure, it means a bigger investment up front, but the potential payoff makes it more than worth it. After all, with everything that’s at our disposal these days, there’s still no better expression of love than a home-cooked, heartfelt meal. Even if the kitchen is foreign territory, it’s easier to pull off than you’re imagining. Let us show you the way.

Oysters with a Shallot and Red Wine Vinegar Dressing TIP If the oyster contracts after it’s squirted with some lemon juice, that’s a sure sign that it’s fresh. 12 native oysters 5-6 shallots, finely-chopped ⅔ cup red wine vinegar 3 tablespoons red wine 2 lemons, halved Salt and pepper to taste For the dressing, mix together the salt, pepper, vinegar, wine and shallots. Then, refrigerate it for at least two hours. Cover a serving tray with crushed ice and sprinkle some salt over top—it’ll slow the pace of the melting. Arrange the oysters, each in a halfshell, on the ice. As you go, make sure that they’re completely detached from the shells. Serve them with the dressing and the lemon on the side. 44

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Crown Roast of Pork with Pomegranate TIP Crown roast isn’t a standard cut at most supermarkets, so plan to order it several days in advance. If you’re ambitious enough to try your hand at assembling it, at least ask the butcher to remove the chime bone, trim the excess fat and French (clean) the bones. 2 eight-piece pork chop racks (about four pounds each), or one crown 5-6 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs (parsley, sage, thyme) Zest from one orange 1 tablespoon olive oil Pomegranate and citrus fruits of choice,

halved for garnish (optional) Salt and pepper to taste Slide the cooking rack to the bottom railing in the oven and preheat it to 425 degrees. Put the chops or crown on a flat rack and put the rack in a roasting pan. Season the pork with salt. Mix together the garlic, herbs, orange zest and olive oil with some pepper, coat the pork with it and then let it sit for a half-hour. Roast the pork for a half-hour. Then, reduce the heat to 375 degrees and continue roasting for about an hour, or until a thermometer inserted into the center of the chop reads 140 degrees. At that point, move it to a cutting board and let it sit for 15 minutes. From there, move it to a serving tray, cut off the twine and garnish with the fruit.

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Dark Chocolate Brandy and Cherry Cake This is the ideal dinner party dessert. All the heavy lifting’s done ahead of time. And when it’s finally unleashed on the table, it never fails to draw awe. Cake 1 ounce dried cherries ⅓ cup brandy 7 ounces dark chocolate 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter ¾ cup superfine sugar 3 large free-range eggs, separated ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup ground almonds ⅓ cup whole milk ¼ teaspoon salt Fresh berries and crème fraîche, to serve Glaze ½ cup confectioners sugar 2 tablespoons whole milk Red food coloring (optional)

FOR THE CAKE

Poached Pears in an Apple Spice Wine Reduction 5-6 pears 1 bottle white apple spice wine, or another sweet white wine of your choice ⅓ cup superfine sugar 3 tablespoons honey Juice from half of a lemon 1 cinnamon stick 1 vanilla bean 2-inch piece of orange rind 1 clove 1 tablespoon allspice Mint and whipped cream, to serve (optional) In a saucepan large enough to hold the pears, sitting upright, add the wine, sugar, honey, lemon

juice, cinnamon stick, seeds from the vanilla bean, orange rind, clove and allspice. Heat the mixture on low, stirring it occasionally until the sugar completely dissolves. Peel the pears, but leave the stem intact. Cut a sliver from the bottom of each so that they’ll sit square in the saucepan. Then, add them to the pan. Simmer uncovered for 25 to 35 minutes, or until the pears turn tender. Careful not to overcook them. Delicately, move the pears to a bowl with a slotted spoon. Continue to boil the poaching mixture until it reduces by half. At that point, let the reduction cool before straining it over the pears. Then, refrigerate them for at least three hours. Serve each on its own dish, a little of the reduction spooned over top along with a dollop of whipped cream and a mint leaf.

Soak the dried cherries in the brandy overnight. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees, and lightly grease an eight-inch round cake pan. Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely-simmering water, stirring occasionally. Make sure the bowl doesn’t touch the water. When the chocolate starts to melt, remove the bowl from the heat and continue stirring until it reaches a smooth consistency. Then, set it aside to cool. Mix together the butter and sugar until the mixture turns pale. At that point, add the egg yolks one at a time, beating the mixture with each so that it remains smooth and creamy. Stir in the cooled, melted chocolate. Then fold in the flour, ground almonds, milk and cherries. Last, add the salt. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until they stiffen. Once they do, fold in the chocolate mixture. Then pour it into the cake pan. Level the surface before putting it in the oven. Bake for 45 minutes and then leave it to cool in the pan for 10 minutes before turning the cake onto a wire rack.

FOR THE GLAZE While you wait, whisk together the confectioners sugar and the milk until the mixture reaches a smooth consistency. (Add the food coloring if you want to heighten the dramatic effect.) While the cake’s still warm, brush it with the glaze, and then let the cake cool completely. When the time comes to serve, cut it into wedges and top them with a handful of berries and a dollop of crème fraîche.

Yelena Strokin is the Newtown-based founder and editor of the blog, www.melangery.com. blackdogmedialtd.com

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EATS. SIDE ORDER

A Sweeter Year Ahead With the opening of Tradestone Confections, a gourmet candy shop in Conshohocken, the door to a once exclusive world is being pried open. Consider yourself the carrier of a golden ticket.

CHIP ROMAN, LEFT, AND FRED ORTEGA ARE REMAPPING THE TRADITIONAL SAMPLER WITH THEIR EYE CANDY.

Chip Roman, the do-no-wrong chef and co-owner of the stud restaurants Blackfish in Conshohocken, Mica in Chestnut Hill and Ela in Queen Village is straying from his stronghold on all foods savory in a new partnership with Fred Ortega. Their Tradestone Confections began selling its gourmet sweets online late last summer. A café, which’ll also serve sandwiches and soup, was expected to open in Conshy in January. Roman and Ortega first crossed paths at the fabled Le Bec-Fin, where they worked together between 2000 and 2002. Ortega was a pastry chef there. During precious lulls, they floated then fostered the idea of making top-shelf candy. Considering Roman’s rate of progression since, it was only a matter of time until the café materialized. “I like to make things, and Chip likes to make things happen,” Ortega says. The name stems from traditions specific to the craft—chocolatiers and confectioners have long la46

bored over workbenches and stone tables—and the location—much of Pennsylvania’s heritage is tied to stone. Accordingly, Ortega’s reverence for chocolate-making runs deep. “Chocolate is part of our life from cradle to grave,” he says. Candy is hardly a tough sell. But first-hand access to quality of this kind is limited. So, Ortega plans to deliver an education on the vast potential of handcrafted chocolate by flexing his muscle. The chocolate bars, truffles, turtles, barks and various bite-size bits will follow a seasonal persuasion. Among the 28 chocolate flavors (and counting): espresso, salted pretzel, coconut and citrus. And a chocolate club will serve as a kind of sampler, gently coaxing members out of their comfort zones, which will ultimately bode well for Ortega. “We will be able test boundaries with more open palates.” Tradestone Confections, 117 Fayette Street, Conshohocken; 484-368-3096; tradestoneconfections.com.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF TRADESTONE CONFECTIONS / JASON VARNEY AND (SIDEBAR) DIA DOCE & CATHEY’S COFFEE BAR / NINA LEA

By Jennifer Hetrick

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THE CHASE FOR CUPCAKES IS OVER Thais da Silva Viggue never seemed to want for a bakery of her own. With good reason. From the time she rolled out in August 2011, her Dia Doce cucpcake truck was never short on demand in and around West Chester. She won a March 2012 episode of “Cupcake Wars” on the Food Network with her signature lemon basil cupcake and thin mint, pumpkin S’more and cinnamon crumb cupcakes. And still she remained committed to staying mobile. Thus, the overdue opening of the brick-and-mortar café Dia Doce & Cathey’s Coffee Bar, which da Silva Viggue unveiled with Cathey Slayton in August on West Chester’s South High Street, shouldn’t be seen as the gifted baker finally caving. It shouldn’t be anything other than a relief. Chasing da Silva Viggue was not a chore tailored to anyone with cupcakes on his mind. These cupcakes, anyway, are deserving of a home, because that’s where their inspiration took root. da Silva Viggue grew up watching her mother steer clear of packaged food and scratch-make everything. Her love of cupcakes, specifically, is rather self-explanatory. “Cupcakes are an absolutely happy dessert,” she says. The Dia Doce truck will remain on the move, but now you can pick and choose your spots. And, in the meantime, settle in at the café. —JH Dia Doce & Cathey’s Coffee Bar, 100 South High Street, West Chester; 610-476-5684; www.diadoce.com.

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EATS. BEST-KEPT SECRET

A Study in Contrast At first glance, very little makes sense about Restaurant Racine, a new BYOB in Pottstown—yes, Pottstown, for starters. But, in the end, none of it matters, or all of it matters, because the food deserves total distinction. By Mike Madaio

C

ontrasting sights immediately struck me as I arrived in Pottstown: a block of newly-constructed townhomes along a bank of the Schuylkill, the remnants of an old mill town, a horse towing a buggy down Main Street filled with a wide-eyed family. Restaurant Racine, a small BYOB that opened on King Street in November, is similarly perplexing and all the more provocative because of it. There’s the somewhat removed setting, but a number of Montgomery and Chester county farms reside nearby, which, at least, hints at a link. But then there’s the chef and owner, Greg Vassos, and his stout résumé, which includes stints at El Bulli, considered the most influential restaurant in the world until it was closed at the height of its popularity in 2011, and Blue, Eric Ripert’s restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton in Grand Cayman. Vassos is maybe the only one who believes he’s exactly where he should be. “The most common question is, ‘How’d you end up in Pottstown?’ ” Vassos says. “And, truthfully, I didn’t know much about it. But I was blown away by the local farms. We don’t use a single purveyor. And nothing is delivered.” As such, Vassos tinkers with the menu daily. “I don’t say, ‘I want this or that’ anymore,” he says. “The farmers tell me what should be on the menu.” The dichotomy continues from there. The techniques employed by Vassos are Le Cordon Bleu-complex, yet the flavors are simple, clean. On paper, at least, the ingredients are familiar, but plated, the combination is a total revelation. An example: bacon and eggs, which is fast becoming a Racine staple. “The first thing we do is bring a whole egg to the table, to start the conversation” Vassos says. “Then we bring out a nest, made of hay from the same farm [Wyebrook, in Honey Brook], which surrounds a warm bowl of toasted polenta, larded mushrooms and pea leaf foam, and ask the customer to return the egg—which has been cooked sous vide at 147 degrees—to its nest.” 48

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The Trailblazer and the Disciple In the fall of 2003, TJ’s Everyday quietly replaced the neighborhood dive bar Paoli Local. It’s now known as TJ’s Restaurant & Drinkery (www.tjs everyday.com) and as one of the of the most well-versed craft-beer gastropubs in the country, holding down places on BeerAdvocate’s “Top 25 Places to Have a Pint” and RateBeer’s “Top 50 Beer Restaurants in the World.” All this, even when beer had little to do with the initial concept, admits Jeff Miller, a co-owner. “We knew we wanted TJ’s to be a neighborhood place … kind of a ‘Cheers’ of Paoli,” he says. Niche beers bridged the gap because they proved to be reliable icebreakers across the bar. That valuable observation is also fueling, in part, a larger movement, as gastropubs—bars devoting equal, meticulous attention to menus and beer lists—crop up across the Philly suburbs. The latest is The Butcher and Barkeep (www.thebutcherandbarkeep.com), in Harleysville, which opened in November behind Cody Ferdinand and Gerard Angelini, longtime bartenders at The Standard Tap, in its own right, a formidable gastropub in Northern Liberties, and Jeffrey Sacco, the former chef at the Craft Ale House in Limerick. The move is as much personal as anything—Ferdinand and Angelini are looking to stay closer to their families. Nonetheless, because of where they’ve been, they’re not about to water down what’s on tap. —MM

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DESIGNER’S BEST FRIEND: DUKE WITH SEUN OLUBODUN (LEFT) AND LOUNGING AT THE BRYN MAWR POP-UP.

THE LAST WORD.

furnished guys with savvy inbetween-wear—lush, cottonblend tees that became a second skin at home, emblazoned with understated, avant-garde graphics that were appropriate for an afternoon of bar-hopping through Old City. The collection also encompasses polos, ties, baseball hats and, as of last fall, dog leashes and hoodies, naturally, since Olubodun’s English bulldog, HRH the Duke, is half the inspiration. The other half belongs to another English bulldog, Winston Churchill. Olubodun spent his childhood in New Castle, England, and much of the rebel-tinged prep that surrounded him there—and happens to be very much in vogue at the moment—influences his designs. At Christmas, Olubodun spun off from his pitch-perfect Northern Liberties flagship (www.duke-winston.com) and opened a pop-up shop in Bryn Mawr, a place, he says, that jives completely with his aesthetic. Surging with momentum now, Olubodun’s launching Fox & Tail (www.foxandtail. com), a line of simple-but-sophisticated leather goods—wallets, duffle bags, iPad sleeves—crafted entirely in Pennsylvania in collaboration with Connor Dickson, who’s on the cusp of having a moment of his own. The basics of dressing recovered, it’s time to start accessorizing.

Your bio indicates an aversion to “downright barbaric” styles. What kind of outfit fits that phrase?

For most of the last decade, guys around here flat-out gave up trying to dress casually. Then a man and his dog intervened and reversed the laughingstock reputation before it hardened. Now we’re back down to Santa being pelted with snowballs. So, that’s something. By Avery Greene For a while, all Seun Olubodun could see roaming the neighborhoods of Philly were Mike “The Situation” Sorrentino clones and dudes in oversize replica jerseys, a la pre-Diddy Puff Daddy. Hanging his head low and twisting it from side to side in disappointment was all he could do to keep from noticing. But the urge is gone now. What he’s too humble to mention is that he’s a big part of the reason why. His almost-five-year-old clothing label, Duke & Winston, finally 50

With separation, what have you grown to appreciate most about men’s style in the UK? Guys there take a lot more risks. They aren’t afraid to wear the tightest clothes and the loudest colors or carry weekender bags. And when it comes to suits, guys there have it more together. They’d never buy a suit off the rack. But if they did, it would be tailored.

I’m almost afraid to ask, but could English dandies be well served by any part of the American aesthetic? Not to be so uptight. Here, guys don’t care that much. It’s like, why do I need to be dressed up?

We all have clothing pains at some point in our lives. When was your darkest hour? When I was just getting out of college, at Temple University. My friends and I wore a lot of Abercrombie & Fitch. I would wear jerseys all the time, too. For a while, I was definitely a frat guy. Then I realized we’d become a certain age, and our styles weren’t matching up.

No doubt that Duke could rock a pink hoodie and make it look strapping. What’s his color of choice, though? He’s a navy guy.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF DUKE & WINSTON

A Joke is a Very Serious Thing

It’s dying down, but for a while there were those Ed Hardy shirts, marked with tattoos, big, loud lions and tigers. And it’s usually guys who are successful, like a doctor, who will wear it on a weekend! That look is definitely a no-no. As for pants, ones that don’t fit. Boot-cut jeans are a style that’s completely out. Now it’s more tapered and fitted, but not skinny.

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2014 2/11/14 6:06 PM


MainLineCEO Making America... (Continued) In 1938, one of America’s great poets, Langston Hughes, published his poem, “Let America be America Again.” I have not read this poem for many years, but recently I’ve found myself haunted by its refrain: “America never was America to me.” I heartily recommend this poem to you. Indeed, I implore you to read it in the hope that it will spark a fire in your soul and conscience that leads to action to reboot the American Dream. You can find the entire poem here: http:// www.poemhunter.com/poem/ let-america-be-america-again/ For now, let me leave you with just a taste: “…I am the young man, full of strength and hope, Tangled in that ancient endless chain Of profit, power, gain, of grab the land! Of grab the gold! Of grab the ways of satisfying need! Of work the men! Of take the pay! Of owning everything for one’s own greed!... …The millions who have nothing for our pay? For all the dreams we’ve dreamed And all the songs we’ve sung And all the hopes we’ve held And all the flags we’ve hung, The millions who have nothing for our pay-- Except the dream that’s almost dead today…” It’s startling and disturbing how relevant this 1938 poem remains 75 years after its publication. If this does not ring true to you and stir you do something – something as simple as voting your current so-called representatives out of office – then it may well be that America is too far gone to be redeemed. As business leaders you have the power to resist the myopic focus on short-term returns and instead focus on strategies and business models that can help restore the reality of the dream. Yes, things are quite crazy, but to borrow a phrase (completely out of context) from a chap named McCartney, you don’t have to just “let it be.” You may well call me a naïve fool. I don’t care, as long as you read the poem and then do something.

Villanova University Dining Services By CEO Contributor Derek Fiorenza Guest: Timothy Dietzler, Director Timothy Dietzler has been leading the Dinning Services program at Villanova University for the past nine years. Tim graduated from the Villanova University School of Business in 1982 with a Bachelor’s Degree in Accountancy. He has worked in the restaurant industry since he was 16 and he has enjoyed each of his working experiences, which include: various “Mom and Pop” restaurants and several large corporate operations. Among these was a Bennigan’s Restaurant, which was owned and operated by Pillsbury Corporation. Tim has been serving Villanova University staff and students in the dining department for over 27 years, the past nine years serving as its Director. Tim considers himself fortunate to work with an excellent team which has been recognized with several industry awards including the IFMA Silver and Gold Plate award and over 17 NACUFS dining awards.

Derek: Thanks for joining me today Tim. What does a day in the life of Timothy Dietzler look like?

Tim: No day is the same and this is the reason I love my job as well as working in the food service industry. A typical day finds me touring our operations and connecting with staff, meeting with team members to review plans to renovate an operation and/or discuss current operational issues and challenges, responding to student requests, developing menus, working on specifications and procuring new food products, approving purchases, reviewing budget performance and sampling food.

Derek: How does working at Villanova University differ from other places of employment in the past? Tim: College and University dining is where all the action is in our industry. In my various roles in the past, I had a focused set of responsibilities such as dining room management and service. The menus, the facility design, product specifications, program changes and strategic planning were controlled by the owners and/or corporate. Here at Villanova University, I have responsibility and involvement in all aspects of the program which makes my job very exciting and challenging. For instance, our team designed several award winning operations here on campus such as The Exchange in the Villanova School of Business and the 2nd Storey Market, our 4,000 square foot convenience store. In the past, I would never have had the opportunity to design an operation. But, it is the sense of community and service which sets Villanova apart from all other operations at which I have worked. Serving the students, faculty and staff by far is a rich and rewarding experience. And to serve your alma mater is an added bonus which sets Villanova apart from previous places of employment. FEBRUARY/MARCH 2014

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Derek: What is the number one thing you’re most proud of with regards to the Villanova University Dining Services program? Tim: The number one thing I am most proud of is our team here in Dining Services. They are very dedicated to serving our students and the campus community. We have gone from 8 operations to the current 20 operations with food service available from 7:15 AM until 2:00 AM the following day. We have done an excellent job serving our campus community. For instance, serving Special Olympic Athletes on Special Olympics weekend is a pleasure and an honor for us. Derek: Does the Villanova University Dining Services make any initiatives to provide healthy foods to the students? If so, what are they? Tim: Yes we are recognized as a leader in our industry in having eliminated all food products with partially hydrogenated oil, MSG and autolyzed yeast extract. We focus on providing fresh cut fruit, salads bars and vegetarian options. We feature an organic salad bar in our Belle Air Terrace. Our menus are online to provide access to checking ingredients and nutritional information. Derek: Does the Villanova University Dining Services make any provisions to protect the environment or to follow a green business model? Tim: Yes, we have a strong sustainability program which includes composting food scraps; recycling of cooking oils, cardboard, paper, aluminum and plastics. We serve only sustainable seafood, and our dining halls are tray-less. We feature Fair Trade products in our operations; as well as locally grown and locally sourced products. Derek: What goals do you have for the future of the Villanova University Dining Service? Do you have any other thoughts you would like to express? Tim: We will continue to focus on expanding our healthy options to our campus community. We participate in “Meatless Monday”, a program designed to bring awareness to the importance of reducing our consumption of animal protein for our health and the environment. We have plans to present ideas of future renovations to the retail operations in Dougherty Hall. We plan to continue our pursuit of excellence while serving our campus community Thank you Tim for taking the time to answer our questions today. It was enlightening to learn more about the program you are overseeing at Villanova University. Keep up the great work Tim; the students are fortunate to have such a complete program which is compassionately lead by you.

Bucks & MainLineCEO.com

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MainLineCEO

Perfection is our Mantra; it is what we strive for. It cannot, fully, be achieved so we are never complacent in search of this goal. Diligence, focus, education, experience, effort and objectivity are some of the elements that we incorporate on this quest. Our culture of educating the client, objectively searching for a customized blend of investments and strategies and adopting and maintaining these concepts throughout our relationship have yielded long term benefits for our clients. When coupled with our search for excellence and our desire to offer a unique and very high quality customer experience, we see our company as a critical resource for our consistently growing and diverse clientele in the years to come. One of Barron’s Top 1,000 Financial Advisors as listed in the February 18th 2013 edition. Irvin W. Rosenzweig,* CFP®, ChFC®, CLU®, CRPS®, AEP® President

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610-627-5848 (FAX) 866-231-3583 (TOLL FREE) IRVINROSENZWEIG@RZWEALTH.COM WWW.RZWEALTH.COM **Rosenzweig & Associates Wealth Management Group, LLC is a branch office of, and Securities offered through WFG Investments, Inc., Member FINRA & SIPC *A Registered Representative of WFG Investments, Inc. *Advisory services offered through WFG advisory services, an SEC registered investment advisor.

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2014 2/11/14 6:02 PM


MainLineCEO MAKING AMERICA AMERICA AGAIN “People are crazy and times are strange I’m locked in tight, I’m out of range I used to care, but things have changed” - Bob Dylan (“Things Have Changed” from the “Wonder Boys” soundtrack) See…this is why you’ve got to love Dylan. Only Bob could sum up the state of the world this clearly, comprehensively and concisely. Academics, pundits and other aspiring thought leaders would need considerably more than three lines to come close to such an incisive and enduring commentary on this cursed, still young, new century. Ironically enough, Mr. Dylan is one of that now infamous 1% of the population who can afford to be locked in tight and out of range of the impact of the growing ugliness and unabashed socio-economic class warfare that has most Americans living the blues these days. The middle class as it existed post-World War II up through the 1980s has been decimated and is well on its way to becoming nothing more than a historical term much like “the Great Depression” – a descriptor for something that very few living souls actually experienced first hand. Thanks to the villains who rule the merciless kingdom of Wall Street and their stooge enablers in Washington, we are suffering through the oxymoron known as “the jobless recovery.” Under unrelenting pres-

4.9 — 4.15

sure to produce greater and greater profits, corporations continue to lay off employees by the thousands. To be sure, there is plenty of work to be done in America that cannot be done by simply firing up new IT-powered automation systems. Unfortunately, though, the cabal of billionaires, multi-millionaires and the political parasites they control just don’t consider massive infrastructure collapses, one of the industrialized world’s worst public education systems, an aging population in need of quality long-term care and coastlines that are repeatedly redrawn by a succession of increasingly fierce, community destroying storms high enough priorities to justify the creation of new government and/ or private sector programs, companies and jobs. The ROI just isn’t there and anyway, they complain, government already does too much for the slothful and ungrateful teeming masses. People with relatively decent, theoretically “good paying jobs” are reluctant to express their resentment or rebel against the serfdom in which they find themselves. They, understandably, would prefer to not be tossed into the next batch of layoffs, forcing them to scramble to patch together several part-time, minimum wage jobs working the registers in convenience stores or making lattes for the Junior League crowd. Or failing that, being flat out homeless. One would think the ruling class – the financial titans and their bought and paid for politicians – would recognize they are not acting in their own self interest. You cannot continue eliminating jobs in a consumption-based economy and expect to go on reaping ever-growing profits. The arithmetic is simple enough for a 6th grader to understand. Yet here we are. Why, you may wonder, am I ranting about such things in, of all places, a magazine for CEOs? In business speak, the American brand is in serious decline. The American Dream is increasingly a myth – a bankrupt incen-

Save the Date! Celebrating its 5th Anniversary, the University of the Arts’ Art Unleashed exhibition and sale

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Preview Party

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about the event

Join us for the First Annual Chester Springs Blues Brews & Barbecue! Located at Ludwig’s Corner Horse Show Grounds in Glenmoore, the festival will feature live music throughout the day from local blues artists, a barbecue contest, battle of the bands & more!

blues

From 10a–2p, local bands will compete in our battle of the bands for an encore set later in the evening, bragging rights, a write up in Mainline Magazine, Bucks Life Magazine and a cash prize! From 2p–8p six different blues acts will play on the hour, ending with our headliner from 8p–10p.

Cool brews while the hot blues plays. Enjoy top local brews while you listen to blues music and enjoy the best barbecue in the area.

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Enjoy a variety of barbecue throughout the day from the top local restaurants. Do you make a great ‘cue? See how yours compares in our barbecue contest.

Visit our local and national vendors and enjoy the many different kinds of arts and crafts being offered.

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This isn’t just for mom and dad, it’s fun for the whole family! Jimmy’s Playland is sure to entertain the kids, featuring moon bounces, rides & more!

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MainLineCEO Matthew J Photography Capture Something Beautiful

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matthewjphotography@gmail.com

april 4th, 5th

&6

th

Social Select 2014 Dates Still Available!

rate events are taking place and increasing in 2012. The profile of those events are somewhat changed and both social and corporate are really looking hard at where the savings and values are.

CEO: Tell our readers about making their events more “green”. LM: Besides using “water or beverage stations” which incorporate beverages by the pitcher or dispenser develop your menus around local and seasonal “farm to table” products. Not only will it help green your event it will help the local farmers. Buy and use locally grown flowers or centerpieces made from recycled products or non perishable products. Many florists/decorators have come up with very creative alternatives to flowers flown in from other areas or countries. Contact some of the great local organizations in the area for a list of members who follow “green” standards. The Sustainable Business Network (SBN.org) or The Green Meetings International Council (GMIC) are great resources. Or just contact me and I can give you other ideas that would fill the page.

CEO: Look into your crystal ball and tell us what your expectations for 2012 are? LM: I wish that I could do that. The truth is that I expect a lot personally, professionally and spiritually! I try and look to see in what areas of my life I may be able to improve and where I may be able to make a difference. My business expectations are that 2012 will be a great year for growth! I have some really wonderful projects which I will be working on here in Philly as well as few national programs.

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Featuring Fine Quality 18th and 19th Century Antiques.

at t h e p h e l p s s c ho ol

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610-692-4800 | ChesterCoHistorical.org presenting corporate sponsor

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2014 2/11/14 6:05 PM


MainLineCEO Lou Marrocco is an iconic event planning figure in the western suburbs of Philadelphia. Beginning with the company he founded and operated for 14 years, Catering, Inc., Lou has been in the hospitality arena for 30 years, including catering, restaurant management, and event planning and production. He has been in this area for 20 years, arriving in 1986 to open and operate an office for Ridgewell Catering of Washington. With Ridgwell, Lou utilized his previous experiences as a base to begin his career in “off-premise” catering. Ridgwell was the caterer to the U.S. State department, also the caterer of the embassies and the who’s who of the Washington beltway. With Ridgewell, Lou was involved with the coordination of the birthday celebration of Jacque Cousteau at Mount Vernon. He was also involved with four Presidential Inaugurations and numerous corporate, social and political events. Most recently Lou has been asked to speak on a topic that he has been actively promoting, “Greening your Food and Beverage Meetings and Events”. His presentation in Chicago, for Affordable Meetings demonstrated to the planners attending how to be more sustainable while also saving budget dollars. A Certified Meeting Professional (CMP), Lou is a member of the board of directors of the Philadelphia Area Meetings Professional International (PAMPI).

CEO: You have lived on both the west coast and the east coast, why live here on the Main Line? LM: I have been very fortunate to have lived in different parts of the US while pursuing my career. I came to the Phila. Area from DC and although I had the opportunity to move back to DC and recently another city, I

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absolutely love where I am! We Philly, have the greatest town, people, culture and history!

CEO: Restaurants, catering, event planning, of all the things you have done what is the thing you like best? LM: I love it all! It is all “hospitality”. Everything we done is all about the guest experience and the satisfaction that you in a small way made their meal, event, experience that much better, even for a short time. CEO: What should people know about event planning that they don’t know? LM: That it is hard work. It is not all glitz and glamour. You have to be committed to your clients, guests’ and business partners to do the job.You need to rely on the relationships that you form to get the best result and do it in a mutual beneficial way for all concerned. CEO: Lou what has been the biggest change in the event planning business since you began in 1986? LM: That really is a hard question. The playing field has changed quite a bit. Back “in the day” it was all about impressing your guests, clients’ etc. then it was about the over-the top experiences, I mean from a production standpoint, now it is all that to some extent with sometimes limited budgets with a very quick turnaround. CEO: How has the recent economic slump affected event planning in Philadelphia’s suburbs? LM: It has effected planning worldwide not just here in the burbs! The good news is that there seems to be a light and both social and corpo-

Bucks & MainLineCEO.com

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2014 2/11/14 6:04 PM


MainLineCEO

CEO Profile:

MAIN LINE EVENT PLANNING ICON By MainLineCEO

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MainLineCEO

Mainline Magazine’s

Duportail Design Project

Both from the inside and the outside, the big-picture agenda behind a business— growing market share and an awareness of the brand, turning a profit—too often eclipses the daily, just-as-valuable triumphs, like piecing together a cohesive, inspired staff and motivating it to chase down a common goal and creating a positive, enduring impression on the surrounding community. So, it’s with a keen awareness of the people among us and around us that we enter into this new era of BUCKS LIFE and MAINLINE magazines. For starters, thank you to those who encouraged M7 Media Group through the last few years, including Jean Shenk, who navigated us over the onslaught of obstacles in the early going, all while actually navigating her own way around the world; Bruce Rosner, the branding and event-planning mastermind; and, of course, our families, who never wavered, even when we couldn’t keep ourselves from it. Thank you, too, to Andrew Cantor and the staff of Black Dog Media. Throughout the magazines’ transition, Andrew responded immediately, at all hours, to every request and need, and they were endless at times, with his trademark enthusiasm and diligence. I look forward to building on our relationship. Beyond this page, you won’t notice much difference—at first. BUCKS LIFE and MAINLINE will continue to serve as the forum for savvy living on both sides of Philadelphia. The content will be hyper-local and people-centered, as it always has been. Toward the back of the magazines, though, you’ll discover the new mainstay supplements, Main Line CEO and Bucks CEO, which will be dedicated to exploring the independent entrepreneurs who are spurring the growth and diversification of our region in all kinds of unexpected and innovative ways. Our aim here is to inform, inspire and, hopefully, tighten the circle a bit more. Over the coming months, look for facelifts to our Web sites and news on some thoroughly-entertaining events we’re developing. In the meantime, enjoy the issue. And please feel free to tell us what you think. If there are ways we can more closely tailor our content to your lifestyle, we want to hear about them. Sincerely, Jim Bauer

Incorporating the BEST in Home Design to Renovate the Duportail Bridal Room and Bath while Respecting and Highlighting the Historical Nature of the Home Steeped in history, the Havard family’s 1740 stone farmhouse played host to the French General, Louis Lebègue Duportail during the Continental Army’s encampment at Valley Forge in 1777-78. Duportail, who was recruited by Benjamin Franklin, served as the army’s Chief Engineer, designing fortifications at Valley Forge. Then, in 1903 the property was purchased by Lawrence McCormick, the general manager of the Bellevue Stratford Photo Looking Glass Photography Hotel in Philadelphia. The property became known as Cressbrook Farm because watercress grown in its streams was used in the kitchens of the Bellevue Stratford. It was during renovations of the house for Mr. McCormick that General Duportail’s original map of the Valley Forge defenses was found in the attic rafters. Since 1908, the map has been in the collections of the Pennsylvania Historical Society. In 1926 the property was acquired by Henry L. Woolman, a University of Pennsylvania alumnus who subsequently donated it to the University. Penn proposed to build a suburban campus, with administrative headquarters at Duportail House. These plans were eventually abandoned and in 1974, the Fox Companies purchased the land from Penn to become part of an 865-acre planned community development known as Chesterbrook and repaired some of the Duportail structures. In 1985, the buildings and three acres of the original farm were conveyed to the non-profit organization that continues to manage and maintain the property today! We are thrilled to help them continue in their efforts!

We are looking for the following!

Publisher

Architect, Project Designer, General Contractor, Interior Designer, Electrician, Plumber, Floor Restorer, Painter, Carpenter and Landscaper plus Lighting, Plumbing Fixtures, Bath Vanity, Window Treatments, Paint, Flooring, Artwork, Furniture and Plantings

If you would like more information about becoming involved in this exciting community project to help maintain a national treasure,

contact us at 610.417.9261 Follow the project’s progress at www.mainlinemag.com and on our Facebook page @ www.facebook.com/MLMagsDuportailProject

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LifeKS BUC informed. sophisticated. local.

THE HOLIDAY ISSUE

63

LOCAL GIFT IDEAS FOR EVERYONE IN YOUR LIFE

(INCLUDING YOU)

IF YOU’RE HIBERNATING, DO IT IN LUXURY A BUCKS FARMHOUSE, RESTORED & MODERNIZED

ISSUE

30

Available on iTunes Subscribe and Save! WWW.BUCKSLIFEMAG.COM

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The Best that Bucks County has to offer will be celebrated

July 17, 2014 The FUGE 6:00 PM -10 PM VIP Reception 5:00 - 6:00 PM Come out and enjoy the region’s Gold Standard in food and spirits while enjoying great music and mingling with the best in fun, retail and services!! This fabulous event supports a fabulous organization:

Big Brother and Big Sisters of Bucks County Vote for your favorite restaurant and local business by visiting buckslifemag.com For more BucksGold information or to buy tickets, visit us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/buckslifemagazine or http://bucksgold.eventbrite.com Interested in Sponsoring this local event, contact Jim Bauer at 610.417.9261 or email bauerjim7@gmail.com or Kate Frey at 215.620.8207 or email kate@katefrey.com

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MANAYUNK URBAN EXPERIENCE, SMALL TOWN CHARM

MAKE A DAY OF IT. CENTRALLY LOCATED. 15 MINUTES FROM CENTER CITY. ONE STOP SHOPPING. SHOP SMALL, SHOP LOCAL. INTERNATIONAL CUISINES. AL FRESCO DINING. TRAILS & BIKING. FESTIVALS & EVENTS.

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MainLineCEO

GIVING Designing an effective financial and estate plan is a gift of the Future. Whether your goals include: funding for college, buying a vacation home, planning for retirement or leaving a legacy, you need Qualified advice. Objective advice that is unique to your situation. Advice that offers you information to make the difficult and critical decisions.

Publisher Jim Bauer CEO Creative Director Kevin Beck CEO Production Director Kristina Evans Design Cantor Design, Inc. Bookkeeping Jana Dickstein Advertising Sales 610.417.9261 Ann Ferro, Bonny Kalman

Director of Sales & Marketing Mike Boucher Director of Events & Special Projects Kate Frey

Servicing Bucks Montgomery Philadelphia Boston

Your needs are unique. So are our solutions.

Weddings Mitzvah Corporate Advertising Media Editorial

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One of Barron’s Top 1,000 Financial Advisors as listed in the February 18th 2013 edition. Irvin W. Rosenzweig,* CFP®, ChFC®, CLU®, CRPS®, AEP® President Rosenzweig & Associates Wealth Management Group, LLC is a branch office of, and Securities offered through WFG Investments, Inc., Member FINRA & SIPC *A Registered Representative of WFG Investments, Inc.

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There are a lot of ordinary venues out there, but Valley Forge Casino Resort isn’t one of them. Just as you waited to find someone extraordinary to marry, you should only say “I do” to a wedding venue that makes your heart skip a beat. You can trust the most important day of your new life together to Valley Forge Casino Resort. This is where romance meets excitement and lifelong memories are made. From amazing food to breathtaking flowers, we will attend to each detail and create your ultimate wedding fantasy.

CONTACT OUR WEDDING SPECIALISTS AT 610-768-3215 Your wedding guests are eligible to receive complimentary access to the casino floor.

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Two minutes from the King of Prussia Mall.

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Q&A with a Main Line Event Icon

LOU MORROCCO

VILLANOVA IS EATING WELL A chat with the Director of Villanova’s Dining Services

MainLineCEO

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2014

SPECIAL PREV Check ou IEW great con t more mainlinec tent @ eo.com

MAKING AMERICA AMERICA AGAIN The times they are a changin’ Cover.indd 68

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Mainline Magazine. February/March 2014