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LUXURY LUXURY MAGAZINE

FA L L 2 0 1 9


IT WAS LI K E A FA IRY TALE... Moving through the marbled corridors and taking in the incredible décor and art — I felt like a princess discovering her palace for the first time. Then, we stepped into the main hall. The vaulted ceilings, elaborate adornments and detailed craftsmanship were amazing. I could’ve spent an hour exploring that one room.

START YOUR JOURNEY AT RSSC.COM/LUXURYCARD CALL 1.844.4REGENT (1.844.473.4368) OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR


EVERY

LU X URY INCLUDED


What if your seventh clubhouse was The Ritz-Carlton ? ®

The Ritz-Carlton®

6 Championship Golf Courses

Reynolds Lake Oconee, the waterfront club community just east of Atlanta, isn’t just home to world-class golf, lake and sporting amenities. It’s also home to one of the only lakefront Ritz-Carltons in the world — a destination that has delighted guests and Members for more than thirty years.

10 Restaurants

Sporting Grounds

350 Miles of Shoreline

Book your real estate preview, starting at $279* per night. ReynoldsLakeOconee.com/Luxury (855) 927.0266

*Excludes holidays and subject to availability; club credit for promotional purposes only. Real estate and other amenities are owned by Oconee Land Development Company LLC and/or other subsidiaries and affiliates of MetLife, Inc. (collectively, “OLDC” or “Sponsor”) and by unrelated OLDC is not involved in the marketing or sale of Resale Properties. This is not intended to be an offer to sell nor a solicitation of offers to buy OLDC-owned real estate in Reynolds Lake Oconee by residents of HI, ID, OR, or any other jurisdiction where prohibited by law. As to such states, any offer to sell or solicitation of offers to buy a

enterprise and use of the facilities is subject to the applicable fees and policies of the operator. For OLDC properties, obtain the Property Report required by Federal law and read it before signing anything. No Federal agency has judged the merits or value, if any, of this p Commission and a copy of such statement is available from OLDC upon request. OLDC properties havebeen registered with the Massachusetts Board of Registration of Real Estate Brokers and Salesmen at 1000 Washington Street, Suite 710, THE COMPLETE OFFERING TERMS ARE IN AN OFFERING PLAN AVAILABLE FROM SPONSOR. FILE NO. H14-0001.


4 Marinas

21 Miles of Walking Trails

Tennis Center

Homesites from $100k-$2.5m

Homes from $400k-$5m+

third parties. Reynolds Lake Oconee Properties, LLC (“RLOP”) is the exclusive listing agent for OLDC-owned properties in Reynolds Lake Oconee. RLOP also represents buyers and sellers of properties in Reynolds Lake Oconee which OLDC does not own (“Resale Properties”). applies only to Resale Properties. Access and rights to recreational amenities may be subject to fees, membership dues, or other limitations. Information provided is believed accurate as of the date printed but may be subject to change from time to time. The Ritz-Carlton Reynolds, Lake Oconee is a private commercial

property. Void where prohibited by law. WARNING: THE CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF REAL ESTATE HAS NOT INSPECTED, EXAMINED, OR DISQUALIFIED THIS OFFERING. An offering statement has been filed with the Iowa Real Estate , Boston, Massachusetts 02118-6100 and the Bureau of Consumer Financial Protection at 1700 G Street NW, Washington, D.C. 20552. Certain OLDC properties are registered with the Department of Law of the State of New York.


DEPARTMENTS

Issue 21

THE FRONT PAGES What’s What | 18

From art, culture, and design to hotels, adventure, and travel.

ADVENTURE Fly Fishing in the Land of Fire | 28

This remote locale on the Rio Grande features some of the largest brown trout in the world.

WATCHES Time Machines | 34

Skeleton watches offer a look at true craftsmanship.

JEWELRY One Is Not Enough | 42 When it comes to bangles, rings, and chains, more is more.

FASHION Fall in Step | 56 Fall in Step

56

The season’s trends are channeling decades’ worth of styles.

ONE PLACE, TWO WAYS Slovenia and Miami | 110

From urban travels and country rambles to haute living and authentic allure.

Time Machines

34

NATURE A World Without Chocolate? | 124

Reports of chocolate’s imminent annihilation has purveyors taking steps to ensure a healthy cacao crop for generations.

GETAWAYS Scavenger Hunts | 128

Colorful, culinary-driven adventures are the new way to personalize travel experiences for the foodie-minded.

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messika.com

LUCKY MOVE COLLECTION


DEPARTMENTS WHAT’S HOT High Voltage | 134

Electric has finally reached lightning speed with two-wheeled modes of transportation.

TECH Clean Machines | 140

The latest high-design household products harness smart technology to get the job done.

ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN The Dining Set | 154

Bold interior designs ramp up new eateries around the world.

FURNISHINGS From Simple Touches to Premier Lighting to Greater Goods | 166

Textured surfaces, the best of Milan’s Euroluce, and well-designed home accessories with a philanthropic bent.

High Voltage

134

ARTIST PROFILE What Miró Saw | 192 Cover artist Joan Miró.

Shine On

168

REAL ESTATE Growing Trend | 202

A new generation of second-home owners are buying properties with added value beyond the location.

THE LAST PAGES What’s Next | 206

Restaurants, bars, shopping, books, food & drink.

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ARRIVING HOME, BEAUTIFULLY.

The Marina at Aston Martin Residences provides a unique and exclusive means of getting to and from the heart of Miami. The ample depth of mooring means even the super yachts can berth on your doorstep. Unparalleled convenience designed for living life beautifully.

www.astonmartinresidences.com AMResidencesMiami

Developed by G&G Business Developments LLC SALES CENTRE 300 BISCAYNE BOULEVARD WAY, MIAMI, FL

+1.305.573.7333

Riverwalk East Developments, LLC, a Florida limited liability company is the owner of the property on which the Condominium is to be constructed and the seller of the units in the Condominium and is for purposes of the Florida Condominium Act the “developer” of the Condominium (“Developer”). Developer has engaged G & G Business Developments, LLC. (“G & G”) to assist with the development and marketing of the Condominium and its units and Developer has a limited right to use the trademarked names and logos of G & G. Any and all statements, disclosures and/or representations relating to the Condominium shall be deemed made by Developer and not by G & G and you agree to look solely to Developer (and not to G & G and/or any of its affiliates) with respect to any and all matters relating to the development and/or marketing of the Condominium and with respect to the sales of units in the Condominium. All images and designs depicted herein are artist’s conceptual renderings, which are based upon preliminary development plans, and are subject to change without notice in the manner provided in the offering documents. All such materials are not to scale and are shown solely for illustrative purpose. For New York Purchasers only, the complete offering terms also require reference to that certain CPS-12 Application available from the Offeror under file number CP18-0005. ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING THE REPRESENTATIONS OF THE DEVELOPER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, MAKE REFERENCE TO THIS BROCHURE AND TO THE DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. Conway+Partners


FEATURES Shop Till You Drop | 50 Brick-and-mortar stores are scrambling to develop exciting experiences to compete with online retailers.

Great Scots | 78

A whole new level of luxury awaits golfers who make the trek to the birthplace of the game.

Returning to Zimbabwe | 88

A new sense of optimism is sweeping the southern Africa republic and offering a new way to safari.

Eye on the Tiger | 102

In India, a quest to spot the elusive, endangered species results in a rare bonus.

The Spice of American Life | 114

Cities across the US are finally getting serious about authentic Indian cuisine. Shop Till You Drop

50

Beyond the Wok | 118

As the capital of China’s Sichuan Province, Chengdu’s richest asset is its cooking.

Sea Worthy | 144 Cathedrals of Culture

172

Visionaries are taking pivotal concepts from outside the cruise industry to offer passengers a wave of innovations.

Cathedrals of Culture | 172

Museum openings, design-forward artistic venues, and a fall exhibition calendar.

The New Old Masters | 184

Superrealists create paintings so naturalistic they could be mistaken for photographs.

The Art of Collecting | 190

Private museums housing personal collections are on the rise.

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Fall 2019


BEAUTY MEETS COMFORT & FIT

AVAI LABLE AT NE I M AN M ARC US & FIN E JEWELER S WOR LDWIDE

TOLL FR EE 855 570 9900

WWW. XPA N DA B L E. I T


T

he Surrealist images of Joan Miró—often outlined in black, enhanced by bright, primary colors—make up a pictorial universe all their own. Rendered by the great Catalan artist, the work explores dreams and the unconscious using a symbolic abstract language to process a strange and poetic conception of the world. Circles and triangles could be eyes and a nose, or anything but a face. Restlessly inventive, constantly experimenting with new styles and materials, Miró produced paintings, drawings, prints, book illustrations, ceramics, murals, sculptures, and tapestries. His favored motifs include women, birds, and stars, but his subject matter could remain elusive. On the cover is an example from his series of 13 etching and aquatint prints made to accompany an

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album of poems, collectively titled Fissures, written by his Surrealist friend Michel Leiris. (The prints were published in an edition of 75 by Maeght Éditeur in Paris in 1969.) The central motif, which recurs in all 13 prints, is a crudely drawn birdlike face flanked by two figures with a star above. Miró subsumes the image within a thicket of linear markings and flashes of color—a small red circle and a larger green oval ringed with yellow. The primordial chaos that the work emotes suggests an artist letting go of control. While there is no right or wrong interpretation of Miró’s graphic universe, his sense of unhindered creative freedom remains undeniable. LUXURY MAGAZINE’s profile of Joan Miró begins on page 192.

Courtesy Cristea Roberts Gallery, London/ © Successió Miró / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York / ADAGP, Paris 1969

ON THE COVER


LUXURY MAGAZINE Produced exclusively for Luxury Card members.

PUBLISHED BY LUXURY CARD PUBLISHER Audrey Arnold audrey@luxurymagazine.com EDITOR IN CHIEF Deborah Frank CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jennifer Fahey

ADVERTISING SALES Detroit Dan Flavin Dflavin@flavinandassoc.net

SENIOR DESIGNER Shawn Sullivan

Dubai/UAE Alexandra Young Alex@konexinternational.com

COPY EDITORS Kersten Deck Jenna Sims

England/UK Rick Plata Gravitas Sales & Marketing Rick@gravitassales.com

PHOTO EDITOR Kristen Hill

Italy Silvermedia, Ferruccio and Filippo Silvera Info@silvera.it

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Frankie Batista Teru Onishi Sergi Pons CONTRIBUTING STYLISTS Paul Frederick Sofia Marino Heidi Meek

Southeast Katherine Matthews Katherine@robinsonmedia.net West Coast Wanderlust Media Nicole Bordges Nicole@wanderlust-media.com Lisa Magnus Lisa@wanderlust-media.com

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jorge S. Arango Colleen Curtis Mark Ellwood Lisa Grainger Scott Gummer Jason Edward Kaufman Sarah Khan Evan McGlinn Irene Rawlings Kathryn Romeyn Paul Rubio Ted Alan Stedman Alix Strauss Stacie Stukin Shaun Tolson Frank Vizard Shivani Vora Basem Wasef

All contents of LUXURY MAGAZINE are the intellectual property of Black Card Mag LLC and Black Card LLC d/b/a Luxury Card (“Publisher”) and/or the respective photographers, writers, artists, and advertising agencies; are protected by copyright and trademark laws; and may not be reproduced, republished, distributed, transmitted, displayed, broadcast or otherwise exploited in any manner without the express written permission of the copyright and trademark owners. (c) 2018 Black Card Mag LLC and Black Card LLC d/b/a Luxury Card. All rights reserved. Views expressed are those of the authors and not necessarily those of the Publisher, which makes reasonable efforts to verify its content. Publisher expressly disclaims and does not assume responsibility for the validity of any claims or statements made, including content errors, omissions, or infringing content. Advertisements and offers are the responsibility of the individual advertising entities, and do not constitute a legal offer by Publisher. Publisher is not responsible for price fluctuations. Prices are based on those accurate at press time. Please consult with a Luxury Card Concierge for current prices.


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THE FRONT PAGES

•What’s WHAT•

Art, Culture & Design

On display at The Met Cloisters through January 12, 2020, The Colmar Treasure: A Medieval Jewish Legacy displays prized possessions discovered nearly 500 years after they had been tucked away inside a wall for safe keeping in the 14th century. The medieval Jewish family hid jeweled ruby brooches, sapphire and emerald rings, and silver coins, but did not survive the black plague pogroms to retrieve them. metmuseum.org

Art-world luminaries like Louise Bourgeois, Anish Kapoor, Antony Gormley, and Sam Fells explore the connections between nature, people, and light in La Lumière des Mondes. Thirty pieces spanning continents and civilizations are on display at the 25,000-acre estate Domaine des Etangs in Massignac, France, through December 31. domainedesetangs.com The 13th PAD London—the 20th- and 21st-century art, design, and decorative arts fair—showcases antiquities alongside tribal pieces and contemporary design works selected from a global roster of 68 galleries. From September 30 to October 6 at Berkeley Square in London. pad-fairs.com

Alfred Eisenstaedt photographed Marilyn Monroe (above), Albert Einstein, and other notables including Post Toasties cereal heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post for Life magazine. Mid-Century Master: The Photography of Alfred Eisenstaedt is showing at Hillwood Estate, Museum, & Gardens (Post’s former home in Washington, D.C.) through January 12, 2020. hillwoodmuseum.org In anticipation of Christie’s October week In anticipation of Christie’s October of collector sales, one of the most discussed week of collector sales, one of the most lots is The Collection of Lee Bouvier discussed lots is The Collection of Lee Radziwill. The personal items of the style Bouvier Radziwill (right). The personal icon, former princess, society doyenne, and items of the style icon, former princess, sister of Jackie Kennedy include furniture, society doyenne, and sister of Jackie jewelry, fine art, photography, and bibelots Kennedy include furniture, jewelry, fine from her homes in New York and Paris. art, photography, and bibelots from her christies.com homes in New York and Paris. christies.com

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The biggest Claude Monet show in America in decades comes to the Denver Art Museum (the only US venue) with more than 100 paintings including the famous Water Lilies and Japanese Bridge. Claude Monet: The Truth of Nature (below). October 21, 2019–February 2, 2020. denverartmuseum.org w

By the Light of the Silvery Moon: A Century of Lunar Photographs shows a hazy 1850s glass stereograph of the full moon alongside glass stereographs taken by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin on the surface of the moon (above). At the National Gallery of Art, Washington, D.C., through January 5, 2020. nga.gov

Italian art dealer Massimo De Carlo (who has galleries in Hong Kong and London) has relocated his flagship Massimo De Carlo gallery in Milan into a 1930s Piero Portaluppi–designed modernist building, renovated over two years. massimodecarlo.com

Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top Left: The Picture Collection Inc.; National Gallery of Art; Denver Art Museum; Christies

Danish-Icelandic artist Olaful Eliasson’s playful, large-scale installations depicting fog, glacial-melt water, and moss (an entire wall) spotlight our specie’s increasingly complicated relationship with nature. Olafur Eliasson: In Real Life, through January 5, 2020, at the Tate Modern in London. tate.org.uk


Hotels

Mandarin Oriental, Lago di Como (formerly the CastaDiva Resort) opens following extensive renovations. Impeccably designed guest rooms are spread among nine separate villas, all with romantic lake views. A glass pavilion houses the restaurant, with an outdoor terrace for lakefront dining. Find the heated pool and pool deck on a floating platform in the lake. From $513; mandarinoriental.com The former New Orleans City Hall Annex has been reimagined as the posh, 67-room Maison De La Luz hotel. Find macaroons and truffles left as turndown treats, massive marble-tiled baths, and Bar Marilou through a secret bookcase door. From $389; maisondelaluz.com

Palazzo Daniele in Gagliano del Capo in Puglia (on the heel of Italy’s boot) dates to the 19th century and still has original ceiling frescoes and mosaic floors but also comfortable beds and modern plumbing. From $480; palazzodaniele.com Like most traditional ryokans, the guest rooms at Hoshinoya Guguan in Taiwan have outdoor hot-springs baths. Contemporary décor includes big windows framing mountain landscapes straight out of Chinese ink paintings. Flower-lined pathways meander through the Water Garden and bamboo forest. From $440; hoshinoya.com Taj Aravali Resort & Spa, Udaipur just opened on the slopes of India’s craggy Aravalli Range. Stay in palatial guest rooms or swank, single-pole desert tents inspired by Rajasthan’s nomadic culture. From $190; tajhotels.com

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An 18th-century palazzo with a dreamy courtyard and a Spanish Steps address, Rome’s Hotel de la Ville opens with 104 lofty guest rooms and suites, as well as six bars and restaurants overseen by Michelinstarred chef Fulvio Pierangelini. Feast on small plates (think Italian dim sum) during the day and enjoy theatrical cocktails while a DJ spins after dark. From $586; roccofortehotels.com Design references at Rosewood Bangkok (below) include the pressed hands of the traditional Thai greeting. The 30-story hotel is furnished with an intriguing mix of ornate and modern pieces. The Sky Pool Studio and penthouses offer panoramic city views from private plunge pools. From $306; rosewoodhotels.com

THE UNDER-20 CROWD

Tiny, design-forward hotels are trending. Cape Town’s Labotessa (from $335; labotessa.com) operates just seven contemporary suites behind a stately 17th-century façade in historic Church Square with views of Table Mountain. The 12-suite, sea-facing hotel Istoria (from $450, including breakfast; istoriahotel.gr) sits adjacent Santorini’s volcanic black sands of Perivolos Beach. Lisbon’s nine-suite, townhouse-style hotel Casa Fortunato (from $475; casafortunato.com) pairs high design with warm hospitality. A Room at the Beach (from $560; iwantaroomatthebeach.com), the former Bridgehampton home of Alexis Stewart (Martha Stewart’s daughter), operates as a boutique hotel that’s a mashup between a riad in Marrakech and an Irish country house. w

Courtesy Images From Top: Hotel Château/Michael Spengler; W Hotels; Rosewood Bangkok

Set in manicured gardens among ancient oaks and lindens, Hotel Château du Grand-Lucé (17 guest rooms) gracefully marries traditional with modern tastes (above). Ancestral portraits hang next to abstract oils in the 18th-century estate in France’s Loire Valley. Chinoiserie-covered walls coordinate with minimalist Roche Bobois sofas. It’s the second property in private investor Marcy Holthus’ new Pilot Hotels group, following the darling Washington School House in Park City, Utah. From $720; chateaugrandluce.com

The slope-side W Aspen (below) debuts 88 design-oriented guest rooms, three suites, and 11 residences with scenestealing views of Aspen Mountain. Enjoy the rooftop patio bar with a pool, hot tubs, fire pits, and a vast dance floor. From $279; w-hotels.marriott.com


WWW . YO K O L O N D O N . C O M @YOKOLONDONPEARLS LONDON FLAGSHIP BOUTIQUE - 8 KNIGHTSBRIDGE GREEN, SW1X 7QL AV A I L A B L E AT N E I M A N M A R C U S , S A K S F I F T H AV E N U E & S E L E C T E D R E TA I L E R S W O R L D W I D E


Spotlight: Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara The storied hotel debuts an over-the-top, under-the-radar oceanfront villa.

adorn 206 rooms, among which 12 are standalone bungalows. Red brick walkways echo with the sound of water cascading into Talavera-tiled fountains and are illuminated in the evening by gas lamps. The new oceanfront Ty Warner Villa ($12,500/night) features 4,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor space, as well as an oceanfront plunge pool, two fire pits, and a terrace furnished for dinner parties of up to eight. The front door opens onto the sands of Butterfly Beach, yet seclusion courtesy of the suite’s private, camera-monitored driveway can be used by guests who, unlike those from years past, don’t want their photos showing up in Hollywood rags.

Courtesy Four Seasons Santa Barbara (3)

Reginald Johnson, one of the most influential West Coast architects in the 1920s, was commissioned for the nowiconic Santa Barbara hotel The Biltmore. The 22-acre resort broke ground in 1927 and soon Hollywood stars were seeking out the retreat and smiling proudly for photographs to be sent back to the movie magazines and papers. Johnson’s creamcolored adobe buildings with red-tile roofs, among stately oaks, swaying palms, and lipstick-pink bougainvillea, served as a recognizable backdrop. Ornamental ironwork, hand-painted Spanish tiles, and arched doorways recalling the nearby Mission Santa Barbara

Adorned with antique chandeliers, soft Persian rugs, and a soaking tub carved from a single piece of French limestone, the villa was commissioned by Warner (who owns the resort) to exceed expectations. Outside, a jungle rain shower (left), firelit terraces, a heated plunge pool (below), and watercolor views focus on the Santa Barbara coastline. Guests enjoy butler service, a poolside cabana at the Coral Casino Beach and Cabana Club, and select tee times at the recently renovated Montecito Club. The Art Deco Coral Casino Beach and Cabana Club on the property was built in 1937 and remains an exclusive private club for well-heeled locals with memberships spanning generations and Hollywood dynasties. Hotel guests have daily access to the club and its larger-than-Olympicsize pool, which is surrounded by chaises overlooking the Pacific, Channel Islands, and beyond. The spa also has ocean views and recently revamped its treatment menu. Locally sourced, sustainable botanicals feature in brightening hydropeptide facials and vinotherapy massages. There’s even an exotic rose-quartz gemstone facial therapy. Guests can book an appointment with celebrity stylist José Eber, who has coiffed A-listers for decades. Drawing on decades of high-profile connections and insider information, the hotel can facilitate unique experiences: a friendly game of beach volleyball with Olympic gold medalist Todd Rogers; a session in the water with surfing legend Tom Curren; a day of making cabernet or syrah with Bion Rice, winemaker at Sunstone Vineyards & Winery. It’s all part of its historic reputation as the place to be. From $895; fourseasons.com w

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E PIC X CH RONO M E S S I L I MI TE D E DI TION A limited edition in partnership with the greatest modern football player, the sporty Epic X Chrono "Messi" Lionel Messi’s colors, his stylish logo and his number "10" on the dial side. On the other side is Messi’s signature on the sapphire crystal case back. Praised for his incredible precision and speed in the beautiful game and followed for his trend-setting lifestyle, Messi worked closely with Jacob & Co., giving his personal input when designing the Epic X Chrono "Messi" Limited Edition. This column-wheel chronograph comes in a 47mm ceramic and rose gold, on a perforated rubber strap. Limited to 180 pieces. N e w Yo r k 4 8 E a s t 5 7 S t r e e t , N e w Yo r k , N e w Yo r k + 1 . 2 1 2 . 7 1 9 . 5 8 8 7 Four Seasons

Hotel Des Bergues Geneva 33, Quai des Bergues, 1201 Geneva, Switzerland +41 22 316 00 96 jacobandco.com


Adventure & Travel

Le Boat, famous for its 50 years of European river cruises, has launched in Canada. Cruise down the waterways and through the locks between Ottawa and Kingston on Ontario’s Rideau Waterway— exploring villages and wineries while biking and hiking along the way. From $659/three nights; leboat.com The Gabriel Kreuther Experience is the unicorn of culinary packages, complete with farmers market shopping, cooking, and having dinner with wine with twoMichelin-starred chef Gabriel Kreuther, as well as making chocolate with pastry chef Marc Aumont. Three days and two elegant overnights at Baccarat Hotel in Manhattan. $35,000/eight people; baccarathotels.com

Surf Bali’s best beaches and then immerse yourself in the Zen of the island’s jungle stillness. COMO Uma Canggu and COMO Shambhala Estate team up for the Surf and Wellness Retreat with Sally Fitzgibbons, who is currently ranked No. 2 on the world circuit. Beginner through intermediate. Women only. November 2–9. From $4,020/person; comohotels.com

Passengers of Golden Eagle Luxury Trains catch the Danube Express in Budapest, and then loop into Austria for visits to Graz and Vienna. The highlight: the New Year’s Eve gala dinner at Vienna’s City Hall (below) with a performance by the renowned Wiener Hofball Orchestra. From $7,495/person/nine days; goldeneagleluxurytrains.com u

To celebrate its 101st birthday, Belmond El Encanto in Santa Barbara is loaning vintage cars to guests to cruise along the coast on Highway 101. Stop at Rincon Point for a picnic lunch packed by the hotel chef and return to your suite for oysters and Champagne. From $5,500/two nights; belmond.com The Greg Norman–designed Ayla Golf Club is Jordan’s first championship grass golf course. Expect forgiving fairways, protected greens, an architecturally remarkable clubhouse, and stunning views of the Red Sea. ayla.com.jo Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel & Spa in Mendoza, Argentina, has launched a 104-foot yacht experience aboard S/Y Entre Cielos in the Aegean Sea. Private parties sail from Mykonos to Santorini, snorkel ancient wrecks along the way, and share five cabins, accommodating up to 12 guests. From $31,000/week; entrecielos.com Spend six days in a château in Bordeaux in October during grape harvest. Learn about terroir and appellations and taste first growths, including the legendary Château d’Yquem, on the Bordeaux Wine Experience’s Grand Harvest Cru Tour. $6,700/person; bxwinex.com 24

Fall 2019

Smart Mountain Guides takes clients hiking up Nepal’s Mera Peak. Then, they ski down an epic descent measuring 4,200 vertical feet. The Chamonix, France–based outfitter specializes in guided mountain adventures like this upcoming 23-day trekking and skiing itinerary. October 1–23. $9,895/person; smartmountainguides.com

True wilderness can still be hard to access in the 21st century. PELORUS (above) works with ship captains, ice pilots, marine biologists, and native guides to discover uninhabited islands, hidden beaches, and secret diving spots—and then devises feasible ways to get there. See snow leopards or ski Alaska, for example. From $30,000/four guests; pelorusx.com

Courtesy Images From Top: Knapp Ranch; PELORUS; Golden Eagle Luxury Trains

The Knapp Ranch (built by the publisher of Architectural Digest) is available to rent for the first time (above). Secluded, but near Vail, Colorado. Buy out the entire property for Thanksgiving week or at Christmas—18 guests in rustic-chic cabins. $92,000/five days, includes chef-prepared meals and on-site activities. Offsite activities like heli-hiking and back-bowl skiing can be arranged. knappranch.com


NEW YORK CITY LAS VEGAS BOSTON BACK BAY BOSTON SEAPORT PHILADELPHIA HOUSTON DALLAS FORT WORTH PLANO DENVER CHARLOTTE WASHINGTON, DC ORLANDO ATLANTA SAN DIEGO LOS ANGELES

D E L F R I S C O S . C O M


ADVENTURE


Fly Fishing in the Land of Fire

In the snow-capped Andes of nearby Chile, the Rio Grande flows through desolate lowland made up of sheep-farming estancias. There is little sign of man in this part of Argentina. Yet the remote locale features some of the largest brown trout in the world. PHOTOGRAPHED AND WRITTEN BY EVAN MCGLINN

Fall 2019

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E

very fly fisherman owes a debt of gratitude to a troutloving Brit named John Goodall. He’s the chap who singlehandedly imported today’s massive sea-run brown trout into Argentina’s Rio Grande River in Tierra del Fuego. It’s a remote destination now so coveted by anglers that many are willing to endure 24 hours (or more) of travel just for a chance to cast to these brutes, which sometimes tip the scales at over 20 pounds. The river is responsible for five worldrecord brown trout—the largest being 35 pounds, 2 ounces caught in 1998. Fish ranging in size from 27 to 35 pounds are caught each season. Every week, 20-pound fish are caught and released. “You will probably catch more big fish in one week here than you will in your entire lifetime,” says Richard White, an avid angler from London who fished here in March. He confesses the biggest trout he ever caught back home was a little more than 8 pounds. From Buenos Aires, fishermen typically fly three and a half hours on an Aerolíneas Argentinas flight to Ushuaia— the southernmost city in the world and a jumping-off spot for exploring Antarctica.

30 Fall 2019


Argentina’s Rio Grande River is responsible for five world-record brown trout— the largest being 35 pounds, 2 ounces caught in 1998. From there it’s a four-hour car ride or a 35-minute hop via helicopter ($1,700/ three passengers), depending on which lodge they booked. The anglers coming here “are a very unique fishermen,” says Hank Ingram, a South American expert for travel outfitter Frontiers International Travel (frontierstravel.com). “Because it is not the most hospitable place in the world, it’s about the experience and not necessarily the number of fish.” Ingram notes that so-called “anadromous” fish like Atlantic salmon, steelhead, and sea-run brown trout tend to live in very wild and difficult parts of the globe. “All the keen salmon anglers love it here,” he says, adding that Scandinavians, Russians, Brits, and Scots are regulars. Americans come too—particularly anglers from the Pacific Northwest who are used to fishing for steelhead in freezing temperatures. “They seem to pride themselves on how much they suffer to catch a fish,” he says.

Fly fishing a remote river of this caliber attracts a fairly tight-knit group of people who travel in the same circles year after year, crossing paths in fishing lodges around the world. Accommodations along the Rio Grande have come a long way since Charles Darwin arrived in 1832 and described the landscape as a “savage magnificence.” Ted Turner has a 24,000-acre estancia called San Jose Ranch (tedturner.com), which rests on the border with Chile. However, it is not widely advertised and not well positioned for making especially big catches. “I have booked the whole river and know it well,” says Ingram. “The fishing just isn’t that great in the upper portion.” Downstream where the action is, find Villa Maria Lodge (vmarialodge .com) near the ocean-fed, food-rich river estuary, where the fish fatten up for a year on a calorie-rich cocktail of krill and other snacks before returning to the rivers (much like Atlantic salmon) to spawn.

On 120,000 acres with 40,000 sheep and 1,500 head of cattle, the lodge is owned by the De Las Carreras family of Buenos Aires and run by Nervous Waters (nervouswaters.com), which operates high-end fishing lodges around the world. With space for just six anglers, the intimate house is among the most difficult lodges in the world to book. “It’s about a two-year wait,” says Ingram. “We have groups of people that buy their week and never let it go. Though we might be able to get you in as a single traveler.” Costing $10,950 for the best weeks between January 10 and March 6, the experience grants anglers private access to approximately 12 miles of water, the main lodge, and a day lodge close to the fishing, so that guests can have lunch and a siesta without driving the 40 minutes back to their rooms. Further upstream, Maria Behety (mariabehetyfishing.com) is owned and operated by cousins of the De Las w

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Carreras family. Between two separate lodges—La Villa and EMB Lodge—the property can host up to 18 anglers with access to approximately 30 miles of the Rio Grande. The most well-known lodge on the river, another Nervous Waters destination, is Kau Tapen Lodge (kautapen.com). When it opened in 1984, it was madness to think anyone would visit here. Back then (pre-Internet), fly-fishing travel was not the international phenomenon that it is today. Owner Jacqueline De Las Carreras had heard tales from her estancia workers about the big fish in the river. Suffering from polio and confined to a wheelchair, she boldly started construction in the middle of nowhere, a move that was made even more difficult by her insistence that the lodge be both wooden and chic. (Concrete is the typical building material in the region.) Undaunted, she ordered lumber cut from Andean cedar and shipped it 2,000 miles on trucks from San Carlos de Bariloche. Kau Tapen means “House of Fishing” in the Ona language of the local indigenous communities. “I like all the lodges, but Kau Tapen is my favorite,” says Ingram. “For the first-timer who has never fished for sea-run browns, this is your lodge.” Fishermen here are treated to chef-prepared meals and have access to a well-stocked wine cellar. The 10,000-square-foot, single-story post-and-beam building accommodates up to 10 anglers (and occasionally 12) who sleep on pressed cotton sheets and under fluffy duvets, as Patagonian temperatures dip into the low 40s. There’s a large formal dining room and a great room with a doublesided, wood-burning fireplace. Take lunches of barbecued local lamb and paella on the glassed-in porch, and unwind via steam room, sauna, whirlpool, and massage. Eighty-eight percent of guests are repeat visitors for the January to April fishing season, when an estimated 85,000 sea-run brown trout head upstream. While a traditional, single-handed fly rod can be used on the smaller tributaries like the Menendez, the main stem of the Rio Grande requires anglers to use 12- to 14-foot Spey rods—named after the large river Spey in Scotland that invented this style of fly rod in the mid-1800s. Anglers new to the rod usually need some practice. Though Kau Tapen’s six guides are very patient and skilled instructors, it’s helpful to have a grasp of the basic casts (the single Spey, the double Spey, the snap T, and the snake roll) before the trip. The beauty of Spey casting is quite addicting, as the line shoots over 100 feet with no effort at all. Unless, of course, it’s windy. The wind here can be fierce, registering above 50 miles per hour in season. In such conditions, guides move clients to the more than 50 pools—with names like Nirvana, Dead Guanaco, and Coffee Shop—to fish with the wind to their backs. “I have been to Kau Tapen 17 times to date and hope to be going back in 2021,” says Chris Rocker, a banker from London who had a pool named after him (Chris’s Pocket) and who has caught hundreds of fish here, including a 28-pounder. “Next year I plan to do salmon in Russia, which is probably the only place that rivals Kau Tapen. But it is not as comfortable and it doesn’t have Buenos Aires.” Another pool here is named “Bush Pool,” after the 41st US President. In a framed letter hanging on the wall of Kau Tapen, dated December 9, 1999, President George H.W. Bush wrote: “Dear Fernando, I write simply to say ‘Thanks’ for your key role in giving me the fishing trip of my life.”

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Clockwise from top left: Sheep roam the large estancia where Kau Tapen is located; guests’ waders hang at the ready; grilling traditional Argentine meats; the barren yet beautiful landscape; a hearty beef stew; lunch served on the glassed-in porch at Kau Tapen; SUVs with rod holders whisk anglers to the many fishing beats; trees are a rare sight in Tierra del Fuego; anglers battle fierce winds while crossing the Rio Grande.

Gearing Up for Tierra del Fuego Kau Tapen Lodge has a complete fly shop and all the gear that you would need to hook a big one on-site. But for serious anglers, hauling oversize duffels and huge rod tubes around the world is part of the fun. Fishing the Rio Grande requires a 12-foot Sage 8-weight 81304X Spey rod ($1,200, sageflyfish.com) and large-arbor Spey reel to accommodate a Rio Skagit Max VersiTip line ($190, rioproducts.com). Choose a reel one size larger than you need, such as the Abel Super 9/10 ($895, abelreels.com). Simms makes the best waders and boots and the Simms G3 Stockingfoot Guide Waders ($550, simmsfishing.com) are less expensive and lighter than the company’s G4 line, which is designed for full-time guides. The Simms Flyweight Wading Boot ($200) is lighter than many Simms designs and thus is a pleasure to wear all day. To combat the wind, pair Patagonia Capilene Thermal Weight Underwear (from $44, patagonia.com) with the Simms Midstream Insulated Jacket ($200), the Simms G3 Wading Jacket ($450), and a pair of Simms Guide Windbloc Half Finger Gloves ($55). For polarized sunglasses, pack a pair of Costa del Mar frames (prices vary, costadelmar.com). As for flies, Wooly Buggers, Zonkers, and Bunny Leeches are always popular, as are tube flies like a Sunray. Kau Tapen’s website has a good list of options and the lodge sells a full selection. u Fall 2019

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WATCHES

TIME MACHINES

MORE THAN A GLIMPSE INTO THE INNER WORKINGS OF A STRIPPED-DOWN DIAL OR MOVEMENT, SKELETON WATCHES OFFER A LOOK AT TRUE CRAFTSMANSHIP— AND THE CHANCE TO WEAR A PIECE OF ART. Photography TERU ONISHI Market Editor PAUL FREDERICK 34

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RICHARD MILLE RM 63-02 World Timer Automatic, $150,000; richardmille.com

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BREGUET Classique Skeleton Tourbillon Messidor 5335, $168,600; breguet.com

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PARMIGIANI FLEURIER Tonda 1950 Squelette, $22,400; Chatel & Co., 831.626.3445

ARNOLD & SON Tourbillon Chronometer No. 36 Tribute Edition, $37,400; arnoldandson.com

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JACOB & CO. Epic X Collection watch, $19,000; jacobandco.com

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BVLGARI Octo Finissimo watch, $24,700; bulgari.com

CORUM Heritage Lab 01, $13,800; corum-watches.com

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JAQUET DROZ Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic, $23,600; jaquet-droz.com

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ULYSSE NARDIN Executive Skeleton X, $17,500; ulysse-nardin.com

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JEWELRY

ONE IS NOT ENOUGH

LAYER DIFFERENT-LENGTH CHAINS AND PENDANT NECKLACES. STACK RINGS AND A BUNCH OF BRACELETS. THE NEW STATEMENT IN JEWELRY? MORE IS MORE. Photography TERU ONISHI Market Editor PAUL FREDERICK

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From left: TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany T square pendant in yellow gold with diamond, $1,650; tiffany.com MATERIAL GOOD Knot necklace in rose gold with diamonds, $2,350; materialgoodny.com CHOPARD Happy Diamonds collection necklace in rose gold with diamonds, $2,730; chopard.com POMELLATO Iconica pendant necklace in rose gold with diamonds, $3,270; pomellato.com

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From left: DAVID WEBB Quad bangle in yellow gold, $6,900; davidwebb.com BVLGARI Serpenti bracelet in pink gold, $5,200; bulgari.com VAN CLEEF & ARPELS PerlĂŠe bangle in yellow gold with diamonds, $20,900; vancleefarpels.com

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DAVID YURMAN Pure Form smooth bracelet in yellow gold, $3,500; davidyurman.com BUCCELLATI Macri Classica bangle in yellow gold, $5,000; buccellati.com CARTIER Clash de Cartier bracelet in rose gold, $6,600; cartier.com

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From left: ASSAEL Silk collection necklace in yellow gold with Akoya cultured pearls, $4,900; neimanmarcus.com MASTOLONI Stella collection necklace in yellow gold with freshwater pearls and diamonds, $3,180; mastoloni.com 46 Fall 2019


From left: CHANEL FINE JEWELRY Coco Crush necklace in white gold with diamonds, $4,800; chanel.com MESSIKA PARIS Move Uno Pavé 2 Rows necklace, $4,260; messika.com ROBERTO COIN Symphony Pois Moi necklace in white gold, $790; robertocoin.com

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From left: PICCHIOTTI necklace in white and rose gold with diamonds, $31,700; liljenquistbeckstead.com ROBERTO COIN New Barocco link necklace in yellow gold with diamonds, $3,500; robertocoin.com MARCO BICEGO Lucia necklace in yellow gold, $3,670; us.marcobicego.com

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From left: JADE TRAU Hanging Kismet band in yellow gold with diamonds, $3,700; large Kismet band in rose gold with diamonds, $6,900; Emerald Kismet band in yellow gold with diamonds, $5,900; jadetrau.com MARTIN KATZ “The Original Microband” in white gold, $2,900; martinkatz.com JADE TRAU Medium Kismet band in rose gold with diamonds, $4,400; jadetrau.com MARTIN KATZ “The Original Microband” in yellow gold, $2,900, and in rose gold, $2,900; martinkatz.com

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Inside Vessel, a 16-story honeycomb-like structure at the main entrance to New York’s Hudson Yards retail complex.

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Gary Hershorn/Getty Images

P O SH L L I T U O Y P O DR


From Amazon’s Prime Day to Cyber Monday, technology has changed the retail landscape. now, traditional stores that cater to a high-end clientele are scrambling to develop exciting experiences in response. by Stacie Stukin

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H

aving opened to much fanfare in March, New York’s Hudson Yards—with more than 700,000 square feet of retail and office space topped by a three-story Neiman Marcus centered around a six-story glass atrium—represents super-malls that promise to be templates for the future of cities. Across the river in New Jersey, the 3-million-square-foot American Dream shopping center is slated to open this fall, featuring atriums with birds and bunnies, an indoor snow park, and a koi court with a runway. Who said retail is dead? It’s not; it’s just evolving. Forrester Research projects that in 2019, 13 percent of domestic retail sales will come from online sales, while 87 percent will come from brick-and-mortar stores with nearly half of those sales influenced by digital touch points. But where luxury shoppers want to shop is changing. “In the past few years, consumers have been gravitating toward smaller, neighborhood concept stores,” says fashion and retail consultant Robert Burke. “High-end customers don’t want to shop with a lot of tourists. They want a more intimate experience that’s convenient and reflects their lifestyle.” That means shopping destinations with a robust mix of home, wellness, fashion, and fitness, as well as restaurants and concept stores like Milan’s 10 Corso Como, which is now stateside in Manhattan’s seaport district, and Dallas’ Forty Five Ten in Hudson Yards. Add events and pop-ups and you’ve got a successful formula for a dynamic spot that attracts families and serious shoppers alike. Here, we highlight three small-scale, neighborhood retail centers that strike a balance between commerce and community—proving bigger is not always better.

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Considered to be America’s first shopping center, Highland Park Village has been the heart of Dallas’ Highland Park neighborhood since it was built in 1931. The Mediterranean Spanish–style complex has always been individually owned, preserving both its architecture and community values. In 2009, two local couples, Ray and Heather Washburne along with Stephen and Elisa Summers (Heather and Elisa are sisters), bought the property, making them only the third owners. Their goal: support neighborhood businesses like Deno’s of Highland Park Shoe Repair and the Village Barber (where you can still get a hot straight shave), while bringing in A-list global luxury brands like their latest coup Goyard—which they had been wooing for years and finally lured to open its first retail outlet in Texas in a spot between Harry Winston and Tory Burch. Luxury shopping is just part of the Highland Park Village equation. Chief marketing officer Victoria Snee says, “We want to create the best and most convenient experience for customers in a hurry.” Added to the mix are complimentary services like personal shoppers who can pull what you need from the shops on-site and an in-house chauffeur named Giancarlo who will pick you up from your hotel or home. And for locals who want an exclusive private social club experience, they can join the newly opened Park House for events like wine tasting, art talks, and pop-up themed dinners. “We’re a luxury shopping and dining destination for tourists but also a neighborhood spot for the community,” says Snee. To serve the surrounding community, the Village hosts events like kid film festivals and the LOCAL market, which takes place monthly in the spring and fall. hpvillage.com This page, from top left: Vessel and The Shed behind it attract visitors to Hudson Yards’ shopping mall; the clock tower at Highland Park Village; handmade artisan bowls and leather sandals at the LOCAL market. Opposite, from top: Flowers for sale at Palisades Village; the invite-only Coast Lounge patio; Anine Bing’s boutique; a picturesque experience.

Clockwise From Top Right: Jason E Kaufman; Courtesy Highland Park Village (3). Opposite Page: Courtesy Caruso (4)

HIGHLAND PARK VILLAGE Dallas


PALISADES VILLAGE Los Angeles Developer Rick Caruso made a name for himself as someone who turns shopping destinations into Disneyesque experiences replete with trolleys and musical Bellagio fountains à la The Grove in Los Angeles. But the Palisades Village—one of his latest endeavors— is more about servicing the affluent residents of the Pacific Palisades than building attractions. This coastal village retail complex is inspired by relaxed, neighborhood destinations like Bleecker Street in Manhattan and Long Island’s Sag Harbor. “The community didn’t want a lot of chain stores, so we inspired brands that had been selling online to open their first brick-and-mortar locations; and for others, their first West Coast–based location,” says Julie Jauregui, senior vice president, retail operations and leasing at Caruso. In that mix is Jimmy Choo founder Tamara Mellon, who opened a 400-square-foot store where her new shoe line is the adornment. Similarly, jeweler Jennifer Meyer was inspired by the inside of a jewel box for her 500-square-foot space, where customers can browse the scope of her designs all in one place. There’s also one of the smallest Sephora stores stocked with a curated selection of makeup; a Chanel Beauté boutique specializing in fragrance, skincare, and makeup; and the first West Coast outlet of Hamptons’ original Botanica Bazaar, carrying a coveted collection of natural skincare brands like Vintner’s Daughter. Sweet Laurel gluten-free bakery and an Erewhon natural foods market cater to health-conscious locals, as do the free fitness classes for mom and baby. The family-friendly food options are still places where adults can get a cocktail, such as The Draycott—where London restaurateurs Marissa and Matt Hermer, who have relocated to Los Angeles, serve up local ingredients with a British twist. “The way we look at luxury is not about global luxury brands,” explains Jauregui, “it’s about the experience of the property.” On Sunday afternoons in the summer, find families sitting on blankets eating ice cream and listening to a music series sponsored by Porsche. Around the holidays, the venue hosts a tree lighting. palisadesvillageca.com w

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Clockwise from top left: The lifestyle boutique and library of luxury book publisher Assouline; the water fountain in the West Courtyard; Virginia Philip’s Wine Spirits & Academy; the Kirna Zabête boutique; wines to buy and try at Virginia Philip’s shop.

An institution in this glitzy, upscale town since it opened in the late ’50s, the plaza was designed in the mid-century glamour style by Austrian architect John L. Volk, whose residential clients included the Vanderbilts, DuPonts, and Fords. Its lush tropical landscape and shaded arcades with their black-and-white terrazzo tile have defined the ideal of Palm Beach living for generations of families. In the past few years, under the auspices of WS Development (one of the largest retail developers in the world), Royal Poinciana has embraced its legacy while catapulting into the present with new retailers and community engagement. Fourth-generation Palm Beacher and granddaughter of local maven Lilly Pulitzer, Lilly Leas Ferreira has taken the helm as general manager. Popular institutions like TooJay’s

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Gourmet Deli (world-famous rye bread) remain, and other unique offerings include a juice bar at the family-owned Celis Produce and master sommelier Virginia Philip’s Wine Spirits & Academy. “We are constantly finding ways to bring the space to life,” say Leas Ferreira, adding that the Plaza plans to host more than 300 events this year, including a Weekend Wellness program with outdoor fitness classes and Wee Royals children’s programming (tie-dye workshop, anyone?). With shopping still its core mission, the complex has

curated an eclectic tenant mix that showcases fashion as well as culture. The Grand Tour by Caroline Rafferty appeals to interior design enthusiasts looking for antiques and textiles, and Los Angeles’ gallery owner Sarah Gavlak will soon open an outpost to showcase contemporary art with a focus on LGBTQ and female artists. To soothe shoppers after Hermès and Saint Laurent sprees, there’s a CBD ritual massage at the Paul Labrecque Salon and Spa. For dessert, there’s always gelato at Sant Ambroues. theroyalpoincianaplaza.com u

Courtesy The Royal Poinciana Plaza (5)

THE ROYAL POINCIANA PLAZA Palm Beach, Florida


FASHION

FALL IN STEP

The season’s trends are channeling decades’ worth of styles—from the boogie-oogie ’70s to the power ’80s to the silk-and-satin ’90s. Photography SERGI PONS Styling SOFIA MARINO

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Previous pages from left to right: SANDRO jacket, $580; sandro-paris.com BOSS shirt, $280; hugoboss.com HERMÈS pants, $1,275; hermes.com GUESS dress, $200; shop.guess.com MICHAEL KORS jacket, price upon request; michaelkors.com STEFANO RICCI sweater, $1,100; stefanoricci.com CERRUTI pants, $525; cerruti.com DENNIS BASSO coat, $3,600; dennisbasso.com MARCIANO shirt, $140; guessbymarciano.guess.com CHRISTIAN DIOR pants, $1,650; dior.com This page: FAY coat, $1,600; fay.com LORO PIANA sweater, $995; loropiana.com BRUNELLO CUCINELLI pants, $825; brunellocucinelli.com Opposite page from left: MAJE jumpsuit, $525; maje.com J.MENDEL coat, $4,400; jmendel.com FAY sweater, $850; fay.com COS boots, $245; cosstores.com 58

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STEFANO RICCI sweater, $2,150, and pants, $1,500; stefanoricci.com MASSIMO DUTTI belt, $70; massimodutti.com

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From left: BOSS suit, $995; hugoboss.com BRUNELLO CUCINELLI shirt, $850; brunellocucinelli.com SANDRO dress, $330; sandro-paris.com VERSACE bracelet, $295; versace.com J.MENDEL hat, $390; jmendel.com CLAUDIE PIERLOT bag, $275; claudiepierlot.com CHRISTIAN DIOR coat $4,800; dior.com BURBERRY shirt, $580; burberry.com J.MENDEL pants, $950; jmendel.com FAY belt bag, $480; fay.com Fall 2019

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From left: BOSS jacket, $1,495; hugoboss.com CANALI sweater, $550, and jeans, $395; canali.com LEVI’S boots, $60; levi.com CERRUTI sweater, $435, and shoes, $365; cerruti.com BOSS pants, $278; hugoboss.com

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From left: SANDRO jacket, $575; sandro-paris.com LORO PIANA sweater, $1,425, and belt, $975; loropiana.com PRADA skirt, $1,120; mytheresa.com CERRUTI coat, $1,345; cerruti.com SANDRO sweater, $295; sandro-paris.com BRUNELLO CUCINELLI pants, $825; brunellocucinelli.com DOLCE & GABBANA shoes, $675; dolcegabbana.com

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From left: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI sweater, $3,150, and pants, $1,045; brunellocucinelli.com SPORTMAX coat, price upon request; sportmax.com MARELLA sweater, $300; marella.com Opposite: LORO PIANA cardigan, $2,995; loropiana.com OLEBAR BROWN T-shirt, $95; olebarbrown.com LEVI’S jeans, $125; levi.com 64 Fall 2019


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FAY coat, $1,600; fay.com BOSS dress, price upon request; hugoboss.com GUCCI hat, $590; gucci.com DOLCE & GABBANA shoes, $895; dolcegabbana.com

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BOSS coat, price upon request; hugoboss.com SANDRO sweater, $265; sandro-paris.com MAJE skirt, $295; maje.com MAXMARA boots, $985; maxmara.com GERARD DAREL belt, $220; gerarddarel.com MARELLA bag, $250; marella.com Fall 2019

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From left: STEFANO RICCI sweater, $1,100; stefanoricci.com MICHAEL KORS X TECH pants, $55; michaelkors.com CERRUTI sweater, $800; cerruti.com STEFANO RICCI jeans, $1,200; stefanoricci.com J.MENDEL dress, $1,290; jmendel.com TOD’S sweater, $795; tods.com BRUNELLO CUCINELLI pants, $1,995; brunellocucinelli.com GUCCI hat, $980; gucci.com 68

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J.MENDEL vest, $3,850; jmendel.com BOSS shirt, $350; hugoboss.com BRUNELLO CUCINELLI pants, $1,595; brunellocucinelli.com STUART WEITZMAN shoes, $425; stuartweitzman.com

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From left: MICHAEL KORS X TECH jacket, $335; michaelkors.com HERMÈS sweater, $430; hermes.com CERRUTI pants, $695; cerruti.com MAXMARA sweater, $350; maxmara.com SPORTMAX pants, price upon request; sportmax.com

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FAY jacket, price upon request; fay.com BOSS sweater, $228; hugoboss.com CLAUDIE PIERLOT pants, $500; claudiepierlot.com KOOPLES boots, $448; kooples.com

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MAJE dress, $415; maje.com CHRISTIAN DIOR shoes, $890; dior.com

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BOSS coat, $795, and pants, $248; hugoboss.com COS sweater, $99; cosstores.com

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From left: LONGCHAMP dress, $1,645; longchamp.com HERMÈS coat, $19,300; hermes.com MARELLA sweater, $300; marella.com JBRAND jeans, $317; jbrandjeans.com MAISON MICHEL hat, $670; mytheresa.com

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From left: FENDI sweater, $1,100, fendi.com MAXMARA skirt, $1,390; maxmara.com BOSS dress, $298; hugoboss.com BRUNELLO CUCINELLI jacket, $6,395, and shirt, $595; brunellocucinelli.com EMPORIO ARMANI pants, $625; armani.com HOGAN shoes, $545; hogan.com LORO PIANA sweater, $1,750, and pants, $585; loropiana.com STEFANO RICCI shoes, $1,500; stefanoricci.com Fall 2019

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GREAT SCOTS

A whole new level of luxury awaits golfers who make the trek to the birthplace of the game. by Shaun Tolson 78

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Courtesy Gleneagles

For nearly a century, the quintessentially Scottish Gleneagles resort has been a golfer’s mecca.

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t used to be that when global golf travelers visited the United Kingdom, they carried with them certain expectations. Suffice it to say, luxuriously appointed resorts with high-end service and opulent, elegant accommodations did not factor into the equation. But all of that is changing. As the number of jet-setting golfers grows, many of Scotland’s most alluring destinations are experiencing a luxury renaissance. In recent years, longstanding resorts have invested heavily in multimillion-pound refurbishments, emerging seismically transformed. At the same time, new boutique properties have opened in some of the country’s lesser-known regions, providing haute hospitality with authentic links in far-flung locales. w

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Clockwise: Gleneagles sits on 850 landscaped acres; the 8th hole on King’s Course; the 1920s-style American Bar; falconry is offered; as well as off-road driving; the bedroom of the stately Royal Lochnagar Suite.

GLENEAGLES Although golfers have been playing its King’s Course since 1919, the Gleneagles Hotel, which delivers a quintessential Scottish countryside experience, didn’t open until 1924. Built by the Caledonian Railway Company, the resort initially catered to affluent British travelers, and during later decades of the 20th century, it evolved into an all-season resort that today offers sporting clays, tennis, archery, off-road driving, and falconry. In 2015, the London-based investment firm and developer Ennismore acquired the 850-acre resort and immediately initiated a multiyear, multimillion-pound design transformation. Improvements were made to each of the three golf courses; most notably landscaping and groundskeeping practices returned the King’s Course to its original configuration.

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In collaboration with the Ennismore design team, London interior design studio Goddard Littlefair resuscitated all 232 guest rooms and suites with bespoke furniture and curated art and accessories echoing the Roaring ’20s. Antique leather chairs, sourced from across the globe, make a connection between the resort and the rails (Gleneagles was—and still is—home to a dedicated train station). The Dormy Clubhouse is now a new craft beer pub, Auchterarder 70, which takes its name from the hotel’s original telephone number. The new American Bar, an opulent and exclusive Champagne bar and cocktail space, evokes the excess of the 1920s and the speakeasy culture that followed. Head bartender Ludovica Fedi extensively researched ingredients and methodologies from that era. gleneagles.com w


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Courtesy Gleneagles (6)


Clockwise: The Royal Hotel in Campbeltown Harbour; Hole 9 at Machrihanish; Black Sheep Pub; The Harbourview Grille; Ugadale Cottages; The Royal Hotel guest room’s harbor view.

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Courtesy Machrihanish Dunes (5)

MACHRIHANISH DUNES This purist’s golfing resort is set on 259 acres in Machrihanish, a Scottish village 5 miles west of Campbeltown. It was on this land in 1879 that Old Tom Morris designed the Machrihanish Golf Club; and it was here, slightly more than a decade ago, that David McLay Kidd routed the 18 holes of Machrihanish Dunes across a Site of Special Scientific interest. The terrain’s protected status required Kidd to design and build the 7,175-yard course in much the same way that Morris had more than a century before, without the use of heavy equipment and through a process where naturally existing

green locations were discovered and then subsequently dictated how the course would be routed. Built by Southworth Development and opened in the summer of 2009, Machrihanish Dunes abuts two boutique hotels, both dating to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. As part of a $30 million development project to create the resort, both hotels have been restored to their former glories. Adorned with antique brass and walnut wood accents, the guest rooms and suites include eight two-bedroom Ugadale Cottages built along the Atlantic coastline. machrihanishdunes.com w

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THE CARNEGIE CLUB Membership at The Carnegie Club delivers a unique opportunity: to experience the Scottish Highlands as one of the world’s wealthiest industrialists did during the Victorian era. The nucleus of the club is Skibo Castle, a stately manor that began as a residence for the Bishops of Caithness in the early 13th century. The building tripled in size during the late 19th and early 20th centuries once Andrew Carnegie purchased the property and transformed it into his sprawling summer residence. Today, the castle is owned by Eve and Ellis Short, two Americans who were once members of the club; and since their acquisition in 2003, the Shorts have followed in Carnegie’s footsteps, investing significant capital into the preservation and expansion of the club and its grounds. Comprising 21 guest rooms, each distinctly decorated— some feature four-poster beds and others Edwardian fixtures and fittings—Skibo Castle is a sanctuary for the leisure lifestyle as it existed more than a century ago. At breakfast, resident musicians play a turn-of-the-20th-century organ in the great hall, while in the evenings, members gather around the castle’s

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original Bechstein piano in the drawing room for cabaret-style singalongs. Members who wish to eat dinner in Carnegie’s dining room will join each other at the same long oak table that once hosted lavish dinners for the Carnegie family and its guests. Elsewhere on the club’s grounds, 12 estate lodges— each one unique in size and appearance—accommodate larger groups and families with children younger than 16. More contemporary in their décor, the lodges each have generous outdoor areas for evening fires and private sun terraces, some with panoramic views of the Dornoch Firth. Club members enjoy an array of activities such as swimming, playing tennis on a French clay court, shooting sporting clays, hunting wild game, fishing, horseback riding, and teeing it up on an 18-hole course built in 1995 by Donald Steel, which was more recently redesigned by Mackenzie & Ebert. Nonmember access is limited to those who are interested in joining the club and who meet the club’s membership requirements. Such exclusivity ensures that the club retains its privacy. That too is a perk of membership. carnegieclub.co.uk w


Courtesy Carnegie Club (6)

Skibo Castle, once Andrew Carnegie’s summer residence. Opposite, clockwise from top: Hole 2 at the Carnegie Links; the Laundry Cottage; the castle’s opulent Great Hall; horse riding on 8,000 acres; the cozy drawing room.

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LINKS HOUSE AT ROYAL DORNOCH For all of St. Andrews’ history as the birthplace of golf in the 1400s, the city’s charm is tempered slightly by its predominant tourism industry, as many shops, pubs, and hotels feel decidedly American. About 115 miles northwest, the seaside town of Dornoch in the Scottish Highlands fosters a more authentic environment. Home to a namesake course with royal designations—one that annually ranks as one of the best in the world—Dornoch is also home to a top-shelf boutique hotel known simply as Links House. Set in a Georgian manor home with ties to the mid-19th century, Links House is the vision of American developer Todd

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Warnock, who became enchanted by the town following his first visit in 2005. Preserved and renovated by a Highlands firm known for its expertise in renovating castles, shooting lodges, and country estates in the area, the main building of the hotel houses five guest rooms, each named after principal salmon rivers of the region. Those rooms are further accented by antiques, historical prints, paintings, maps, and books, all corresponding to specific rivers. Across the street, a second residence built in the Victorian style houses six additional suites. Common areas are adorned with various tweeds—including a proprietary Links House tweed that Warnock commissioned. linkshousedornoch.com u

Clockwise From Top: Kevin Murray; Courtesy Links House (4)

Clockwise: The Royal Dornoch course ranks as one of the best in the world; Links House gardens and grounds; top wines; gourmet meals; luxe suites.


SOME PLACES YOU VISIT, OTH E R S YOU KE E P.

On the white sands of Nassau’s Cable Beach, the next era of Bahamian sophistication has arrived. So, too, has this opportunity for unique residential ownership. At Baha Mar, Rosewood Hotels & Resorts ® and SLS Hotels offer a limited collection of turnkey, ocean-facing one- to six-bedroom Residences and waterside Villas. Indulge in the life that these exceptional Residences can bring: unsurpassed comfort, personal service, and a spectacular array of experiences and owner entitlements, all with the stunning beauty of the archipelago’s islands at your doorstep. Complement your legacy with a home at Baha Mar. Prices from $726,500 to $25 million An array of tax, residency and financial benefits may apply

+1 242 788 8866 residences@bahamar.com | residences.bahamar.com BAHA MAR CASINO

R O YA L B L U E G O L F

RACQUET CLUB

ESPA

S E N S E ®, A R O S E W O O D S PA

These materials do not constitute an offer to sell, or a solicitation of an offer to buy to residents of any jurisdiction where prior qualification is required unless the Developer has previously met such qualifications and no marketing or sales literature will be knowingly forwarded to or disseminated in such jurisdictions. Offers may only be presented and/or accepted at the sales center for Baha Mar. Any offering or programs contained herein are void where prohibited by law. Notice to New York Residents:  The complete offering terms are set forth in the New York Offering Plans, as amended, for Luxury Residences and Hotel at Baha Mar and Lifestyle Residences and Hotel at Baha Mar available from the Sponsor.  (File Nos. CP13-0215 and CP13-0216. For New Jersey Residents - This advertisement is a solicitation for the sale of Units in: Luxury Residences and Hotel at Baha Mar: N.J. Reg. No. 19-33-0006; and Lifestyle Residences and Hotel at Baha Mar: N.J. Reg. No. 19-33-0007. For California Residents - WARNING: THE CALIFORNIA DEPARTMENT OF REAL ESTATE HAS NOT EXAMINED THIS OFFERING, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, THE CONDITION OF TITLE, THE STATUS OF BLANKET LIENS ON THE PROJECT (IF ANY), ARRANGEMENTS TO ASSURE PROJECT COMPLETION, ESCROW PRACTICES, CONTROL OVER PROJECT MANAGEMENT, RACIALLY DISCRIMINATORY PRACTICES (IF ANY), TERMS, CONDITIONS, AND PRICE OF THE OFFER, CONTROL OVER ANNUAL ASSESSMENTS (IF ANY), OR THE AVAILABILITY OF WATER, SERVICES, UTILITIES, OR IMPROVEMENTS. IT MAY BE ADVISABLE FOR YOU TO CONSULT AN ATTORNEY OR OTHER KNOWLEDGEABLE PROFESSIONAL WHO IS FAMILIAR WITH REAL ESTATE AND DEVELOPMENT LAW IN THE COUNTRY WHERE THIS SUBDIVISION IS SITUATED. Any purchase of a Residence should be for personal use and enjoyment and should be without reliance upon any Brand identification or potential for future profit, rental income, economic or tax advantages. Baha Mar is not owned, offered, marketed, sold, constructed or developed by Rosewood Hotels and Resorts, L.L.C. (“Rosewood”), SBE Hotel Management, LLC (“SBE”) or any of their affiliates (collectively, the “Brands”) and the Brands do not make any representations, warranties or guarantees whatsoever with respect to the Residences, Baha Mar or any part thereof. There exists no joint venture, joint enterprise, partnership, ownership, agency relationship, broker relationship or similar relationship between the Developer and Rosewood or sbe as to the Residences or the development, offering, marketing, sale or solicitation of Residences. The Developer’s use of the names of the Brands (Rosewood, Rosewood Hotels & Resorts, sbe and SLS) is pursuant to limited, non-exclusive, non-transferable and non-sublicensable licenses from the Brands (the “Licenses”). The Licenses may be terminated or may expire without renewal and without the consent of, the Association or any owner of a Unit at the Condominium, in which case neither the Residences nor any part of Baha Mar will be identified as branded project affiliated with such Brand. ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING REPRESENTATIONS OF DEVELOPER. Prices are subject to change without notice. All illustrations and depictions are artist renderings used to depict lifestyle only and are not intended to be scenes from or within Baha Mar. Actual improvements may be subject to change and views may not be available from all Residences. Future development can limit or eliminate views from a particular Residence. Any description or depiction of furnishings or fixtures is intended to be illustrative of the quality of furnishings and fixtures to be provided in the Residences and is not intended to display what will be available in the actual Residences. Copyright © CTF BM Operations Ltd. One Baha Mar Boulevard, Nassau, Bahamas 2019 - All rights reserved.


RETURNING TO

ZIMBABWE

Two years since the fall of President Robert Mugabe, a new sense of optimism is sweeping the southern Africa republic—and positioning it as a top stop on the luxury safari circuit. by Lisa Grainger

F

rom a motorboat speeding across Lake Kariba, it appears as if the little black dot floating in the distance is moving. Given that the object is almost a mile from the mainland, it’s unlikely that it’s an animal, the captain says. It is the wrong shape to be a crocodile. And it’s far too big to be a bird. Humphrey Gumpo, the Zimbabwean guide leading two guests on a bespoke nine-night Roar Africa (roarafrica.com) expedition around his homeland, finally nails the identity of the mystery swimmer by looking through his binoculars. “Look at those ears,” he says triumphantly. “I can’t believe I am saying this in the middle of a lake, but it’s a waterbuck. And it looks like it’s got an unwelcome passenger.” Waterbuck are a regular sight on the shores of northern Zimbabwe. But this is the first time since Gumpo started guiding 20 years ago that he has seen one swimming across one of the world’s largest man-made lakes—and he is unsure if the beast will make it. Not only is the young male heading to an island that’s a mile from the mainland, but its “passenger” is a crocodile. Gumpo’s guests want to rescue it, but the captain is unsure. If they go too close, he says, opening a debate about the ethics of interfering with nature, the beast could panic and drown. So, keeping its distance, the boat quietly follows, until, at last, the struggling beast shakes the crocodile off with a toss of its head, and, when it reaches the shore, bounds past a group of surprised-looking baboons, and joins its grazing herd. “Another brilliant morning in Africa,” Gumpo grins, clearly relieved that no one had to witness the death of a brave young buck in the grim yellow jaws of a prehistoric-looking crocodile. “Anyone for a fresh coffee and muffin to celebrate?” w

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iStock (2)

The sun sets on the Zambezi River in Zimbabwe while hippo linger at the surface.

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In many popular African safari destinations—whether that’s the Maasai Mara in Kenya, the Sabi Sands in South Africa, or the Serengeti in Tanzania—such an extraordinary wildlife spectacle might be witnessed by dozens of travelers. Here, there is no one else around. In this remote area of Lake Kariba, in northwest Zimbabwe, there are just a handful of camps at which to stay, including African Bush Camps’ newly refurbished 12-room Bumi Hills Safari Lodge (africanbushcamps.com). From the lodge’s elevated position atop a rocky hill, it’s rare to spot another tourist’s boat. Occasionally a basic fishing rig might chug by, sporting a few waving fishermen. But otherwise guests have this African wilderness almost entirely to themselves: 2,100 square miles of freshwater lake fringed by the uninhabited Matusadona National Park. Heading out from the elegant, contemporary lodge on a little speedboat, wildlife isn’t difficult to spot. Twelve-foot crocodiles slither off sandbanks. Herds of waterbuck, impalas, zebras, and elephants amble along the shores. Pairs of monochrome fish eagles dive for their dinner by pods of snorting hippo. And then, at the end of the day, as the shimmering great red orb of the sun dips beneath the silver-streaked waters, creatures of the night begin warming up their vocal cords in preparation for their hunts: lions moaning, hyenas whooping, owls hooting—and guests clinking ginand-tonic glasses before yet another delicious African dinner.

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Courtesy Images From Top: Bumi Hills Safari Lodge; Roar Africa; TCS World Travel. Opposite Page: Courtesy Bumi Hills Safari Lodge (3)

Clockwise from left: The oversized deck, comfortable living and dining areas, beachside pool, and large entertainment room at Bumi Hills Safari Lodge on Lake Kariba, which is fringed by Matusadona National Park where pods of hippo and herds of elephants roam in the uninhabited wilderness of northwest Zimbabwe.


Zimbabwe, the landlocked country situated just above South Africa, and neighboring Mozambique, Zambia, and Botswana, was once as well-known as Kenya for its safaris. With a friendly, highly literate population; more than 13 percent of its land set aside for wildlife; some of the best guides on the continent; and a solid infrastructure, it had all the right ingredients to become the finest safari destination in the world. Then a blip in the form of violent land grabs and a corrupt government, led by the freedom-fighter-turned-dictator Robert Mugabe, who passed away at the age of 95 in September, changed everything. As its cheery people will joke, the country turned “from being the breadbasket of Africa into the basket case of Africa.” Even before Mugabe’s presidency was toppled in 2017 (peacefully, by his own army), a new sense of optimism had started to permeate the country, and

hoteliers and ground operators quietly started building camps, resorts, and a solid infrastructure. The year Mugabe fell, more than 100,000 Americans visited Zimbabwe: almost a third of the country’s total number of tourists, according to Blessing Munyenyiwa, a board member of the Zimbabwe Tourism Authority. The year before, a new airport large enough to accept international jets was opened in Victoria Falls, one of the world’s Seven Natural Wonders and the heart of Zimbabwe’s tourism industry. And across the country, some of the safari industry’s biggest names, such as Wilderness Safaris (wilderness-safaris.com), Singita (singita.com), Great Plains Conservation (greatplainsconservation.com), and African Bush Camps (africanbushcamps.com), have invested in refurbishments and new properties. w

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Clockwise From Top: iStock; Courtesy Matetsi Victoria Falls; Courtesy Roar Africa

Deborah Calmeyer, the Zimbabwean-born CEO of Roar Africa, a New York– and Cape Town–based safari operator, has gone to the country several times per year over the past 40 years and put together the trip led by Gumpo for her clients. She says that, in spite of January’s unrest, this year the remote wilderness areas of the country will be “Africa’s hot new destination, particularly with so many new lodges opening in Victoria Falls.” While 50 years ago there was just one place to stay in Victoria Falls, the colonial-style Victoria Falls Hotel, there are now more than 30 lodges and hotels to accommodate the halfmillion or so visitors who jetted in last year to see the largest waterfall in the world: a continually falling sheet of thundering water that’s twice as high and a third wider than Niagara. While most of the little town throngs with day-trippers and

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adrenaline-seekers eager to bungee jump over the gorge, microlight over the falls, and white-water raft on turbulent rapids, quietude can be found just 25 miles away at Matetsi Victoria Falls (matetsivictoriafalls.com). Owned by a local businessman turned conservationist, John Gardiner, and efficiently overseen by his daughter, Sara, the 212-square-mile game reserve has both a 9-mile stretch of the Zambezi River from which to see riverine creatures and wide, open plains on which to spot the Big Five. The 18-room contemporary lodge, with a four-bedroom private, exclusive-use villa at its heart, was designed by local architect Kerry van Leenhoff to be as natural and sustainable as possible. Buildings are clad in locally harvested wooden poles to provide shade on hot summer days. Chic furniture


From Top: Courtesy Matetsi Victoria Falls; Courtesy Roar Africa; Shutterstock

Clockwise from top left: Sunrise at Victoria Falls; the pool at Matetsi Victoria Falls; the lodge’s wine cellar; a lilac-breasted roller native to Sub-Saharan Africa; seating by a fireplace at Matetsi; helicopter transportation is the easiest way to access the various lodges throughout the parks.

was hewn from indigenous logs and the bar is covered in hand-polished petals of local copper. Solar panels and a waterpurifying plant contribute to sustainability efforts. “Zimbabwe has such a rich team of creative and talented people,” says Gardiner. “We wanted to build something to showcase that, whether that’s in design, guiding, or food.” For Gumpo’s group, traveling by private plane to Victoria Falls, Hwange National Park, Lake Kariba, and the private Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve, the scenery at this time of year is as spectacular as the camp itself. It’s January and, across this part of southern Africa, isolated rainstorms regularly sweep across the vast, dramatic skies. Following the rain, renewed plant life and insects arrive: red and blue dragonflies that hover like helicopters; thousands of flying ants that erupt from the earth at full moon; and exotic butterflies that flit and float between a short-lived explosion of flowers. And in their wake come birds, from the tiniest, rainbow-hued bee-eaters to the majestic, pink-lidded giant eagle owls, which can become as exciting to see as lions and elephants. “Once you’ve seen the Big Five, then that’s ticked off,” explains Gumpo. “But there are so many exquisite birds at this time of year—in Victoria Falls, almost 500 species—that even people who didn’t think they were birders quickly become so.” w

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It’s not often that guests are prevented from checking in because of wild animals. But at Somalisa Camp (africanbushcamps.com) within Hwange National Park in a private concession, a 45-minute flight south from Matetsi by Cessna Caravan, lions are on the hunt right beside the tents, sending not only grazing zebra running, but also a couple of waiters back into the bar. Somalisa is never short of wildlife, though, thanks in part to the three waterholes that front each of its three elegant tented camps. Hwange National Park has the second-highest diversity of wildlife in Africa after the Serengeti, and days here are generally spent driving in open-sided Land Cruisers through vast plains such as Ngweshla, where populations of buffalo, impala, kudu, wildebeest, and giraffe graze under the watchful eye of prides of lion, or, occasionally, a pack of wild dogs or a family of bat-eared foxes. “After game-viewing at Ngweshla, it’s hard to take guests anywhere else because they’ve been spoiled,” admits Gumpo, who typically sees a dozen species of mammals there in one day. One of the advantages of traveling with one of Zimbabwe’s top guides, armed with an ever-inquiring mind, 20 years of bush experience, and a .22 rifle, is that at any stage (per the guide’s discretion), guests can get out of their vehicle and go walking— “to get up close and personal with nature,” as Gumpo puts it, “to smell it, feel it, hear it.” One morning, after spotting a number of big elephants in the area, Gumpo’s group left their vehicles and hiked to the

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edge of a shaded teak forest, where they watched five bull elephants nibbling on fresh vines. Then later, they saw the beasts heading for one of Somalisa’s pools and walked to a protected spot some 10 feet away, where, sipping glasses of South African shiraz, they watched, silent and immobile, as the herd jostled and slurped, then disappeared into the dark, moonless night. Although today in Zimbabwe there are several safari camps as comfortable, stylish, and polished as those in neighboring Botswana and South Africa, there is one property that stands out above the rest, Singita Pamushana Lodge (singita.com). In 1994, the 203-square-mile former farm in the country’s southeast region was converted into a private wildlife concession bordering Gonarezhou National Park. Today, under the management of the respected Singita brand, and its land and game protected by the Malilangwe Trust, the destination has become a model not only of how luxury camps should be run but of how to protect wildlife and landscapes by involving local communities in projects that range from a feeding program for 20,000 preschool children and a community computer center to local game-scout training. Singita Pamushana’s legendary guide Tyme Mutema accompanies Gumpo’s group one morning as they creep up behind a log near a white rhino, so close they can all hear the gnashing of the beast’s teeth munching on grass. At the end of each full day, tracking rhino, watching wild dogs hunting, listening to cheetah chewing on a newly caught

Courtesy Somalisa (3). Opposite Page: Courtesy Singita Pamushana (3)

Clockwise from top left: A bath with a view at Somalisa Camp; afternoon sun on the deck at Singita Pamushana Lodge; the lodge’s lounge and fireplace; a Pamushana master bedroom; on a game drive at Somalisa Camp.


impala, and spotting a leopard walking along a road, Gumpo’s guests are more than happy to retire to the glamorous stone-walled lodge, set atop a hill scarred with sandstone outcrops and bristling with giant baobabs. Designed by the respected South African designers Cècile and Boyd, the thatched camp is every bit as elegant as Singita’s other properties in Tanzania and South Africa, but with a strong Zimbabwean style. Pillars are intricately inlaid with colorful, handmade mosaics. Stone walls are adorned with abstract African art. Every surface holds something beautiful: beaten brass pots, intricately beaded Shangaan fabrics, or carved boxes. Then there are the triple-height cottages with plunge pools; the delicious, fresh food; the spa treatments using organic African oils; and camp beds set out on decks at night so guests can sleep out under the Milky Way. It is a place, says lodge manager Emily Capon, that guests return to again and again, and not only for the wildlife. “So often we are told that on the news people hear only negative things about Zimbabwe, and yet when they come here, they encounter only kindness and generosity and pristine natural spaces. We’re often told we’re the friendliest people in Africa. Being Zimbabwean, I can’t judge, but it’s always lovely to hear.” When hugs are exchanged on the gravel runway, as guests prepare for their short flight to Johannesburg and then home, it’s clear that they’ll all be back. Gumpo now has his pilot’s license and all anyone can talk about are the places he can show them next as a pilot-guide. “You haven’t seen Mana Pools yet, and that’s my favorite place on earth,” he says. “So, we will keep that for next time. In Zimbabwe we never say goodbye to people, because there is always a next time. So kufamba zvakanaka (travel well) and see you then.” w

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GEAR UP

BOOTS You’ll wear a great pair of walking boots every day on safari, come rain or shine. The Scarpa Kailash Plus GTX boots have solid soles to protect from thorns, Nubuck leather that is durable and protective, and Gore-Tex breathable inners to keep feet reasonably cool. Wear them in at home, so they feel like slippers in the bush. $280; scarpa.com SANDALS Open sandals are useful when you’re back from safari and relaxing in camp. The Keen Bali Strap ($80) for women and the Keen Venice Waterproof ($90) for men have a solid sole, a good grip, and a covered toe that allows feet to air out while preventing injury. keenfootwear.com

DUFFEL BAG Pilots of the small aircraft that flit between bush airstrips will not transport bags with hard sides. So, pack everyday essentials such as binoculars, a camera, sunblock, a birdbook, and sunglasses into a light backpack to take on board; check in clothes, shoes, and washbag in a soft-sided duffel. The Ghurka Kilburn II No 156, a handmade duffel available in vintage chestnut leather, is handsome, sturdy, easy to clean, and looks better as it ages. $1,495; ghurka.com SUNSCREEN The African sun can be brutal, hence the need for a good sunscreen. The natural Green People Scent Free SPF 30 doesn’t attract insects, can be used on sensitive skin for UVA and UVB protection, and does not contain mineral oils or silicones that can cause prickly heat. $35; greenpeople.co.uk 96

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HAT A good hat will not only protect the face and neck from the sun, but shade the eyes from bright light—thereby improving the chances of spotting game. The best models, such as the cotton Jacobson Safari ($40; jhats.com) or Barmah Hats’ Canvas Drover ($52; barmahhats.com), have a wide brim, aerated sides to aid cooling, and an under-chin strap.

FIRST AID KIT Insurance is essential on any trip, but it is particularly important in Africa, where medical rescues from remote areas to hospitals in South Africa, or back to the United States, have to be carried out using (expensive) private planes. Most local African hospitals stock only the basics, so it’s worth taking a small medical kit in case of an accident. The Lifesystems Traveller First Aid Kit has the basics; add antihistamine cream, tablets for headaches, motion sickness, and rehydration, plus pads and treatment for blisters. $25; lifesystems.co.uk INSECT REPELLENT Most safari areas have mosquitoes in the wet season, which can carry malaria. Because in certain areas the creatures have developed immunity to some anti-malarials, it is important to get medical advice about which specific drug to take. Additionally, cover up arms and legs at dawn, dusk, and night, and use an insect repellent or an oil with citronella or eucalyptus oil, such as Lifesystems’ Deetfree Natural Insect Repellant 30+ Spray. $12; lifesystems.co.uk

BINOCULARS A good pair of binoculars is the only piece of equipment that really is essential on safari. Sharing is not recommended; when a leopard creeps out from under a bush, you’ll want to see it up close immediately. Swarovski EL 32 Binoculars are lightweight and small, and have a comfortable grip, a wide range of view, and an ample x8 magnification. $2,300; swarovskioptik.com SCARF Pack a soft, fine cotton scarf, and it will always come in handy as a neckscarf on cold winter mornings; a headscarf on windy days; a sarong round the pool. The Lithuania-based LinenWorld makes light, soft versions in safari colors. Whatever you do, avoid blue: it attracts the biting tsetse fly. $28; etsy.com

HEADTORCH This all-important tool illuminates dark camp paths at night, and frees up your hands for carrying cameras and binoculars. The Petzl Tactikka+ compact headlamp, with camouflaged headband and rechargeable batteries, has both white and red lights, to ensure animals are spotted, but not dazzled. $45; petzl.com

SAFARI JACKET Debuted in the 19th century to fulfill the sartorial needs of African adventurers, the safari jacket was constructed of sturdy cotton cloth that was breathable and moistureresistant, with epaulettes (for binoculars), pockets (for bullets), and a belt (to maintain its shape). The Hickman & Bousfield canvas version, created by legendary guide Ralph Bousfield and his costume-designer partner Catherine Hickman, brings that classic style into the 21st century, and looks equally elegant back home with jeans. $335; hickmanandbousfield.com TROUSERS Fjällräven Barents Pro Trousers, with numerous pockets and reinforced fabric, are great for bushwalks, as is expected from the company that has perfected the art of outdoor wear that is both stylish and practical. $140; fjallraven.com —L.G.


Super-sized safaris

Courtesy &Beyond (2). Opposite Page, Illustrations by Patrick Morgan (6)

Incorporate these ultimate upgrades to boost even the most perfect safari experience. A RHINO ENCOUNTER One of the first and most-lasting impressions learned in the bush is that everything is connected. andBeyond (andbeyond.com)—the leading conservation company that grew into a luxury safari purveyor by leveraging upscale travel as a means to fund its efforts to care for wildlife and people—pools its resources to facilitate rare, behind-the-scenes experiences. Those interested in going beyond traditional game drives can pay extra for the privilege to tag along with and lend a hand to the professionals who manage the wildlife. Though they are at the behest of the conservationists who may be collaring an elephant, for example, snapping a selfie is not part of the experience. Rather, helping the game managers when they need to do such tasks is. At the Phinda Private Game Reserve in KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa, ecologists like Craig Sholto-Douglas track rhinos that have been fitted with ankle-bracelet transmitters. The reserve encompasses nearly 70,000 acres in eastern South Africa that were resurrected from derelict farmland to their original wildlife-rich splendor, and Sholto-Douglas heads out on an oldschool excursion tracking by telemetry. Listening for pings on a handheld radio connected to a metal antenna that he holds aloft as he drives, he locates the general vicinity of the rhino. A guest accompanies him and helps by pointing the antenna to the north,

south, east, and west, looking for the strongest signal. They set out on foot, along with an armed guide, to find the rhino grazing with a friend, who still had its horn. Poaching rhino horns is an epidemic fueled by demand from the Far East. The prize is more valuable than gold—despite reams of proof that it is not an aphrodisiac nor has medicinal value (the horn is simply keratin, the same material as fingernails). In 2007, the total number of rhinos poached in South Africa was 13. By 2014, the number skyrocketed to an all-time high of 1,215. Various measures have been tried to deter poachers, including injecting horns with colored dye or poison, neither of which harms a rhino. Yet the only measure proven to work is removing a rhino’s horn. Not having a horn does not hurt a rhino—they grow back—nor does it overexpose the animal to predators like big cats, which typically do not see rhinos as prey. At Phinda, where resources are abundant, lion and leopard easily pick off impalas and nyalas instead. The number of rhinos killed by poachers in South Africa is on the decline (769 in 2018), and since Phinda started dehorning, only one animal has been shot (it was left otherwise untouched, presumably when it was found not to have its horn). Dehorning at the reserve takes place in July and August, and guests who time it right can participate, typically aiding with functions like collecting hair samples and monitoring vital signs. w —Scott Gummer Fall 2019

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Bateleur Camp in Kenya’s Great Rift Valley

A PHOTO QUEST At andBeyond’s newly renovated Bateleur Camp (andbeyond.com) at the foot of the Oloololo escarpment on the rim of Kenya’s Great Rift Valley, find fully customized photographic safari vehicles and specialist photographic guides who assist guests in capturing standout wildlife images. These new vehicles—which should be booked ahead to ensure availability—were designed by photographers and feature clever advances, including open sides for unobstructed, elevated views and seating in the center so guests look out rather than forward. Instead of benches, the five guest seats are individual, gas-lifted, 360-degree swivel chairs with custom camera mounts to provide a smooth base for equipment. The truck is loaded with electrical charging points for camera batteries and air-conditioning to allow for longer drives, which is especially valuable during the migration season when it’s impossible to pull your eyes away from those heartstopping Mara River crossings (conveniently located just a mile from Bateleur). Another improvement prolonging customer satisfaction: the onboard bar. —Colleen Curtis

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Ngorongoro Crater in northern Tanzinia

A JET JOURNEY Private jet in bush terms is not quite the same as rush hour at Teterboro Airport—these runways are short, and there is no room for Gulfstreams or Global 6000s. But Calmeyer of Roar Africa says her clientele base of CEOs is very happy with the Cessna Caravans and PC-12s that allow groups of eight to move quickly and comfortably through the region with expedited international border crossings. It’s a far cry from the commercial bush flight system that, while far better than driving from camp to camp, can nonetheless feel crowded and somewhat haphazard due to the unpredictable flight plans. “It’s a no-brainer,” once you explain the advantages, says Calmeyer. Comfort and convenience aside, these small jets enable travelers to plan more ambitious itineraries, combining destinations that would be impossible to cover in 10 days relying on commercial routes. Grant Telfer, who heads up andBeyond’s Mwewe Ranger Training School, knows the advantages of leading this kind of journey. “You can much more easily include the gorillas in Rwanda or Uganda this way, and then go on to Ngorongoro Crater, the Maasai Mara, the Serengeti, and even Victoria Falls, Botswana, Namibia, or South Africa,” he says. Another bonus is having the same guide throughout your journey, supplemented with local expertise at the various camps and lodges where you stay. Together you can work out a strategy of what you want to see, do, and avoid, with the convenience of revising as you go. Some of the larger safari outfitters, including TCS World Travel (tcsworldtravel.com) and Lakani (lakani.com), have added private jet packages to their portfolios, enabling couples and smaller groups to take advantage of the luxury and flexibility without shouldering the entire cost. The itineraries are fixed but the range is much more comprehensive than what can be covered in a trip that relies on commercial routes. —C.C.


Courtesy &Beyond (3). Opposite Page, Clockwise From Top: Courtesy &Beyond; Shutterstock; Courtesy &Beyond; Courtesy Roar Africa

From top: Suluwilo Beach on Vamizi Island; Casamina’s pool on Vamizi; a Suluwilo bedroom with ocean view. AN ISLAND ESCAPE An innovative initiative launched last year allows guests to combine a sybaritic sojourn at two of Africa’s most luxurious islands— andBeyond Mnemba Island and andBeyond Vamizi Island (both within easy range of Kenya and Tanzania)—with an important philanthropic cause. Oceans Without Borders (andbeyond.com) was established as a partnership between andBeyond and the Africa Foundation to expand the focus of wildlife conservation to include the protection and sustainability of the sea. Its goal, says operations manager Tessa Hempson, is to create marine-based conservation programs that direct social and economic benefits to local communities, using a model that has been successful for its founding partners across game reserves in Sub-Saharan Africa: care of the land (in this case, the reefs and ocean), care of the wildlife, and care of the people. That formula includes research; conservation initiatives; collaborating with communities and governments; and guest engagement and education. Unstated, but undeniable, is the benefit of these locations being in paradise, complete with top hospitality services and accommodations. On Mnemba, the staffto-guest ratio is 2:1 and there are never more than 24 guests. The tiny private island is a quarter-mile off the northeast coast of Zanzibar, featuring powdery sand, clear water, and a beachside banda for each couple. The open-sided, thatched wooden suites are furnished with four-poster beds, crisp linens, and mosquito netting on the shaded veranda and beach sala—where just-caught fish are delivered as an afternoon sushi snack. Calm, warm waters double as a playground for marine life, including dolphins and humpback whales. Activities include windsurfing, paddleboarding, snorkeling, and diving. Boats are available for sundowner sails, fly-fishing excursions, and dolphin swims—though many mornings you can swim with dolphins by simply wading into the water. This is also a nesting ground for the threatened green turtle, as well as many bird species. And just as game drives are punctuated with insights on animal habitats, ecological factoids, and the history and culture of surrounding communities, these aquatic adventures can feature similar conversations led by a marine biologist or a local guide. Mozambique’s Vamizi is a larger island that offers a very different vacation vibe, better suited for families and small groups of friends. There are six villas, each including

a personal chef, butler, and housekeeper. Marine conservation and community engagement have been central to Vamizi’s development since 2002. “Many people from the east coast of Africa live in subsistence communities, very directly reliant on the reef ecosystem. So, any conservation decisions have to come from them or they won’t be successful,” Hempson explains. Today, the island has one of the healthiest coral reef ecosystems in the world, and its waters boast some of the most significant and endangered habitats and wildlife in the western Indian Ocean, with over 180 species of pristine coral and over 400 species of reef fish. In August, whales migrate from Antarctica up Africa’s east coast to calve, as part of their breeding cycle. Seeing pods of 20 whales or more breaching and playing in the sea just off both islands is an almost daily occurrence during that period. And September is sharktagging season, with gray reef sharks teeming in the waters around the island. One theory is that it’s an important breeding area, and Oceans Without Borders researchers are working to tag the sharks and record their movements to learn more. —C.C. w Fall 2019 99


“Once people are here, they understand how tourism makes a direct contribution to changing Africans’ lives,” says Roar Africa’s Deborah Calmeyer, “and they want to be a part of that. It’s an authentic, emotional experience that shows how vital a visit to this continent really is.” These NGOs in East Africa connect travelers with unique experiences and opportunities to make an impact. —C.C.

UGANDA The Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary, aka “Chimp Island,” is home to 50 chimpanzees who can’t return to the wild. Visitors are confined to one small area in the forest, while the chimps wander freely, emerging twice a day for feedings that coincide with scheduled daily visits. There’s also a three-day kids camp and an immersive four-week volunteer program. ngambaisland.org Africa Foundation has partnered with andBeyond to facilitate the socioeconomic development of the communities closest to, and in some cases sharing, the land where they hold concessions. Guests at any of their 29 camps and lodges across the continent can arrange a visit to local schools or villages, where they can meet the people whose lives are directly impacted by their tourism dollars, through education, employment, and health care. Such interactions have led to guests funding school kitchens and dorms. One recent expert fit an elderly Maasai warrior with a lifechanging hearing aid on the spot. africafoundation.org

TANZANIA Shanga is the Kiswahili word for beads, and this workshop, located in the Elewana Arusha Coffee Lodge in Arusha, Tanzania, employs more than 65 people, a majority of whom have a wide range of disabilities, to create products via traditional arts like weaving, glass blowing, papermaking, metalwork, and of course, beading. Recycled materials are used wherever possible. shanga.org The Plaster House believes no child should live with a treatable disability, and for 11 years the NGO’s groundbreaking work has provided a healthy, supportive place to recover for local children who undergo reconstructive surgery—for disabilities including clubfoot, cleft palate, and burns. Families who want to experience solution-based philanthropy can visit or even volunteer to play soccer or do puzzles and crafts with the kids who are recovering. theplasterhouse.org u

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KENYA

The Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (SWT) has successfully raised 244 infant elephants and reintegrated 156 orphans back into wild herds in Tsavo, Kenya. Visitors can stop by the project outside Nairobi to watch baby ellies (sometimes as many as 15) enjoy their daily mud bath and midday feed. Pro tip: There is a second, smaller interaction most days for those who are “fostering” one or more of the orphans. sheldrickwildlifetrust.org Ocean Sole Africa creates colorful products from the tons of recycled flip-flops that are collected off Kenya’s beaches and waterways every year. Visit their Nairobi workshop (down the road from SWT) and meet the artists working with this social enterprise that redirects profits from making art out of ocean pollution into conservation entrepreneurship. oceansoleafrica.com

Courtesy Images, Counter-Clockwise From Bottom Right: Shanga (2); Africa Foundation; Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary; Sheldrick Wildlife Trust; Ocean Sole Africa

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EYE ON THE TIGER In India on safari, spotting this elusive, endangered species is a rare bonus. ashim Tyabji, one could say without hyperbole, wrote the book on tigers—literally, a tome with Tigers emblazoned across its cover. In the kind of sonorous baritone you rarely encounter outside movie trailers, he recounts brushes with tigers, snow leopards, David Rockefeller, and Goldie Hawn, and chats with the casual command of a professor about everything from sculpture to American politics to Mughal poetry. Tyabji is part Indiana Jones, part David Attenborough, and at this moment, full killjoy. w

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Clockwise From Top: Tom Parker; Courtesy Sujan Sher Bagh; Courtesy &Beyond. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images From Top: &Beyond; Sujan Sher Bagh

Scenes from an Indian safari. Opposite from top: Kalinjar Fort in Uttar Pradesh; palace ruins on a lake near Suján Sher Bagh in Ranthambore.

“It’s the luck of the draw—come again,” he says without effect. Both a naturalist and wildlife guide, Tyabji has become a local authority on the one animal tourists come to India to see. His charges are on the verge of leaving without glimpsing one, and all he can effectively say is “oh, well.” “It’s a privilege to be in tiger country,” he says. “If you see a tiger, don’t buy a lottery ticket, because you’ve used up all your luck.” At this rate, Powerball might have better odds. It’s no secret that serendipity plays an outsize role on safari in Panna National Park in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh (called “Tiger State” for its six tiger reserves). The rhythms of the wild are resolutely dictated by luck: On a game drive, the group might stumble onto a jungle conclave of elephants, lions, and buffalo by a waterhole, and by that afternoon be convinced that all predators have been driven out of the bush by the relentless cacophony of birds. The first thing any aspiring safarigoer in India dreams about is trailing a streak of tigers through the jungle, and the idea of leaving the Indian wilderness without glimpsing one seems unfathomable—and yet, too often, distressingly probable. Heading toward the wilds of Madhya Pradesh is no typical safari experience. In Africa, groups often drop directly from the sky into a private reserve, bypassing most cities and citizens altogether; in India, travel is by plane (to Delhi), train (to Gwalior), and automobile (five hours by road to Kuno-Palpur Wildlife Sanctuary). Along the way, quotidian scenes unfold: uniformed children walking arm in arm to school through gilded mustard fields; vegetable sellers hunching over baskets of plump tomatoes and onions; barbers trimming clients in the shade of mahua trees; tractors draped in marigolds whizzing past, blaring Bollywood songs; young boys playing cricket in open fields; old men playing cards at packed tea stalls. Instead of a VIP flyover, arriving in Kuno-Palpur is an invitation to India’s heartland and the first stop on an 11-day mobile camping expedition with Tyabji’s Kaafila Camps and andBeyond safaris. Population and cell signal both thin and then dissipate during the approach to camp, a collection of four plush tents overlooking a stretch of the Kuno River where the water is so placid that it mirrors the surrounding cliffs like glass.


“The sites that Kaafila travels to are low on tourist footprint, places where there is no accommodation of any quality, yet there is much to see,” says Shoba Mohan, founder of Rare India, a consortium of intimate hotels of which both Kaafila Camps and Sarai at Toria are a part. “It’s an explorer’s paradise for people who love to dive directly into the soul of a destination.” While it may not be tiger habitat, Kuno is perhaps the closest thing to a private game reserve in India. In Africa, many luxury lodges preside over concessions that only their guests can access; in India, wilderness is public domain, and prime sightings are often bottlenecked with dozens of vehicles. But at this 350-square-mile sanctuary, competition to see spotted deer with antlers as big as humans, jackals circling a carcass, and hyena staring back with intense curiosity is next to none. Rudyard Kipling set The Jungle Book in Madhya Pradesh, and Kuno could be a prototype for the wilderness there— engulfed in a thick silence interrupted sporadically by the chirping of a swallow or the rushing of a river. In a place like India, with 1.3 billion people and some of the world’s most polluted cities, silence and clean air are real luxuries— alongside Kaafila’s cliffside sundowners and five-course dinners.

Each day Tyabji’s team magically transplants camp to yet another idyllic setting. Long drives between destinations are punctuated with stops at the immaculately preserved cenotaphs of Shivpuri and the sandstone temples of Khajuraho, famed for their erotic carvings. Anywhere else in the world, these monuments would be choked with tourists; here, pictures are unmarred by anyone apart from the occasional photobombing sweeper. At Kalinjar, Tyabji walks along the parapets to courtyards where monkeys outnumber tourists and 1,000-year-old wall carvings of Shiva cling to the edge of a cliff.

“You’re in the middle of nowhere and then there’s this,” Tyabji says. “The vitality of this piece is amazing—it’s the single most remarkable work of central Indian art.” The Bengal tiger is an Indian icon, a recurring character in centuries of literature and art. But rampant hunting and poor wildlife management led to alarm bells in 1968, when numbers slumped from the hundreds of thousands to 2,500. Recovery began in earnest, but a surge in poaching and a lack of widespread conservation precipitated another steep decline in the mid-2000s, when several reserves, including Panna, w

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lost their entire populations. But the tide is finally turning, as Panna is now home to more than 40 and national figures are expected to cross 3,000 when the 2018 National Tiger Conservation Authority census is released. Moments after crossing Panna’s gates, a leopard is seen crouching in the grass. A good omen, perhaps? A leopard is, after all, rarer to spot here than a tiger. “The good thing about this place is you can be completely non-focused on tigers,” says Raghu Chundawat, a conservation biologist and author of The Rise and Fall of Emerald Tigers: Ten Years of Research in Panna National Park. He owns the eight-suite Sarai at Toria there with his wife, Joanna Van Gruisen. “The landscape is very diverse—every turn is a new scene,” he says. Dense groves of bamboo transition to an ethereal teak forest cloaked in mist with sambhar deer skittering through to fragrant fields of wild mint, hot on the trail of a jungle cat and Indian wild dog. Both are extremely hard to see, says local guide Ajay. “I haven’t seen a wild dog at Madhya Pradesh in two months.” For those who want more tigertracking opportunities than just Panna, andBeyond offers an optional add-on: Rajasthan’s Ranthambore National

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Park, where tiger sightings are all but guaranteed. At Suján Sher Bagh, a sumptuous colonial-style camp down the road from the park gates, tiger motifs appear on embroidered cushions and in the photography done by owners Anjali and Jaisal Singh. Guests are occasionally lulled to sleep by qawwali music drifting over from nearby villages. A game drive into Ranthambore lays out how wildlife and human civilization exist in tandem. Throughout the 150-square-mile expanse, vestiges of the 1,000-year-old Ranthambore Fort still stand. A Mughal-era dargah (shrine) still in use lies deep within the buffer zone, as do crumbling pavilions, faded stepwells rising from lakes and forests, and ancient walls woven with emerald leaves. A sepia-tinted archway abutting a thick curtain of banyan vines marks the entrance into tiger territory. At last, “Tiger! Tiger! Tiger!” guide Ashlesh whispers urgently, spotting one of the park’s 60-plus specimens. The tigress Arrowhead strolls lazily to the left of a jeep—unencumbered by anyone or anything, as only a queen of the jungle could be—graciously loping around to the front to grant her audience a better view. Then just as suddenly as she came into view, she’s gone.

From top: Rajasthan’s Ranthambore Fort; tracking a tiger in Ranthambore National Park; other animal sightings. Opposite from top: Sarai at Toria; Kaafila Camps; Rare India’s Samode Safari Lodge; a chef at Suján Sher Bagh.


From Top: Tom Parker; Courtesy Sujan Sher Bagh (2). Opposite Page, Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: Rare India/The Sarai at Toria; &Beyond; Rare India/Mr. Somendra Singh; Sujan Sher Bagh

ON SAFARI andBeyond safaris (andbeyond.com) offers 11-day mobile camping tours of Madhya Pradesh with Hashim Tyabji and Kaafila Camps (kaafilacamps .com). Start in Khajuraho, home to a collection of UNESCO World Heritage Site temples. Move to the first campsite at Kalinjar and stay in a comfortable tent appointed with colorful local textiles. Then head to the family-owned Sarai at Toria (saraiattoria.com) lodge at the tiger reserve of Panna National Park for two nights while the campsite relocates near the ancient Kalinjar Fort in Uttar Pradesh at Kuno-Palpur Wildlife Sanctuary in the northern part of the state. For those who want additional tiger-tracking opportunities, andBeyond offers an add-on at one of India’s best wildlife retreats, Suján Sher Bagh (sujanluxury.com) in Rajasthan’s Ranthambore National Park. For other lodging options throughout Madhya Pradesh, check out Taj Safaris (tajhotels.com), as well as the Rare India (rareindia.com) wildlife portfolio, which consist of more intimate and boutique offerings. Other luxury resorts near Ranthambore include Aman-i-Khas (aman.com) and the Oberoi Vanyavilas (oberoihotels.com). w

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IN DELHI

A stopover en route to the Indian bush has it all: history, culture, food, and style.

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The Lodhi An ultra-modern hideaway in the heart of the city, the 111-room hotel has one serious advantage over every other city property: Most rooms come with heated plunge pools (above) and balconies, a welcome treat after a hectic day. Bentleys and Ferraris mill about the parking lot, but ask to have the hotel autorickshaw take you out for a spin. From $270; thelodhi.com

Indian Accent India’s best restaurant may have outposts in New York and London, but nothing compares to chef Manish Mehrotra’s original (below), located at The Lodhi. The seemingly never-ending tasting menu showcases resolutely Indian flavors in a compellingly modern way. indianaccent.com

The Imperial At this colonial-era grande dame, which originally opened back in 1936, spend an afternoon strolling the corridors. Like a museum, thousands of vintage pictures from across India decorate the hotel. In the Spice Route restaurant, an entire 16th-century temple from Kerala is embedded throughout the elaborately designed dining room, which depicts the nine stages of life and reincarnation. From $145; theimperialindia.com

Nappa Dori Home to one of India’s chicest accessories labels, the Nappa Dori flagship (above) in the Dhan Mill Compound is a sprawling, warehouse-like space filled with the brand’s leather bags, wallets, and accessories. When you’re done shopping, refuel at their airy Café Dori. nappadori.com Santushti Complex This outdoor shopping center feels less like a mall and more like a leafy village, with a handful of shops spread out across lovely gardens. Browse blockprint dresses and linens at Anokhi, an assortment of teas at Sancha Tea Boutique, and colorful scarves and tunics at Tulsi. santushtishoppingcomplex.business.site Good Earth and Nicobar These sister brands are go-tos for Indian interiors, fashion, and accessories— Good Earth has more traditional, high-end finds, while Nicobar channels a more contemporary, tropical aesthetic. goodearth.in; nicobar.com

Counterclockwise From Top Left: Courtesy The Lodhi (2); Kevin Garrett; Courtesy Nappa Dori

Sly Granny Khan Market is the city’s shopping and dining mecca. That’s where you’ll find this buzzy new restaurant with an eclectic, witty fusion menu and a can’t-miss cocktail list. Try the South Indian–style pulled-chicken tacos, ratatouille calzone, Moroccan chicken flatbread, and sangria in the homey, comfortably cluttered dining room. slystorys.in

Micato Safaris Modern New Delhi is the latest in a line of eight distinct cities that have thrived here under various rulers for a thousand years. With a Micato guide, visit historic sites like the 1193-built Qutub Minar tower and the 16th-century tomb of Mughal emperor Humayun; see how thousands of meals are prepared by volunteers each day at the 18th-century Gurudwara Bangla Sahib; and cruise past the grand boulevards conceived by British architect Edwin Lutyens. Then dive into the lively labyrinthine alleys of Old Delhi, take a cycle rickshaw past the 17th-century Jama Masjid, go shopping in Chandni Chowk, and sample piping hot parathas and samosas in Paranthe Wali Gali, a narrow lane that’s home to some of the city’s best food. micato.com u 108 Fall 2019

All images courtesy of the manufacturers

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Urban Travels IT’S JUST A 90-MINUTE TRIP FROM THE INLAND CAPITAL OF LJUBLJANA TO THE ADRIATIC COASTAL TOWN OF PIRAN. 1. Ljubljana Old Town Walk Baroque and Art Nouveau buildings line the streets. A food market, an open-air theater, and a bevy of sidewalk cafés make this one of the busiest places in the city. Nearby is a funicular ride to the extraordinary views from Ljubljana Castle. Tours of the former prison provide historical context, while on-site dining and weekend music concerts make it worth a return visit. ljubljanskigrad.si

4. Villa Tartini When Slovenia was part of the now-defunct Yugoslavia, Communist boss Marshal Josip Tito often entertained foreign dignitaries from a villa on Piran’s harbor. This newly opened residence has a spacious waterfront garden and seven guest suites with an interior décor firmly rooted in the Tito era. Serviced by a whitegloved staff, it makes a great lunch stop. vila-tartini.com

2. River Cruise The Dragon Bridge, the Triple Bridge, and the Butchers’ Bridge are among the 17 beautiful bridges that crisscross Slovenia’s capital. A great way to see them is from the water on a handmade, 50-seat wooden boat. barka-ljubljanica.si

5. Fine Dining Restaurant Sophia, an affectionate tribute to the actress Sophia Loren, and Fleur de Sel, named for the region’s best sea salt, offer Mediterranean and international fusion cuisine, respectively, at the Kempinski Palace Portoroz, a fairy-tale hotel with Adriatic views that first opened its doors in 1910. kempinski.com

3. Piran Old Town Famous for its local salt-panning operations, Piran’s picturesque Medieval streets convene on Tartini Square, named for a famous 18th-century Slovenian violinist (cue “The Devil’s Trill”). Walk up to the cathedral ramparts to see the seaport city of Trieste and the Italian Alps in the distance. portoroz.si

6. STAY: InterContinental Hotel Ljubljana Opened in 2017, the 20-story hotel (the tallest in the city) is within walking distance to all major attractions and features rooms with a modern, sophisticated décor. The rooftop B-restaurant is among the best eateries around and the pool offers panoramic views. From $150; intercontinental.com

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Clockwise From Top Left: Dagmar Schwelle/laif/Redux; Paul Hahn/laif/Redux; Courtesy Slovenian Tourist Board; Courtesy InterContinental Hotel Ljubljana; Courtesy Kempinski Palace Portoroz; Courtesy Villa Tartini

SLOVENIA


Courtesy Images, Clockwise From Top Left: Dvorec Zemono; Lipica Stud Farm/Edition Boiselle/Gabriele Boiselle; Slovenian Tourist Board; Posestvo Pule; Slovenian Tourist Board (2)

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Country Rambles CONSIDERED ONE OF THE MOST SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS, ITS LANDSCAPE OFFERS ENDLESS EXPLORATION. 1. Day Tripping Vipava Valley is a popular recreation area for hiking, mountain biking, climbing, and paragliding. But no matter what you do, stop at Dvorec Zemono for a long lunch or dinner. Top chef Tomaz Kavcic prepares traditional Slovenian cuisine (think trout, pork, beef, and even bear) with a modern flair. zemono.si

4. Bee Therapy Resting in a chamber next to a buzzing beehive soothes and purifies the spirit, according to the keepers of a nonaggressive Carniolan bee native to Slovenia. Honey-oriented spas and saunas are part of the country’s growing apitourism (bee tourism) trend promoting health and well-being. apiturizem.si

2. Lipizzan Horses In a village not far from the Italian border, 300 white Lipizzans call the Lipica Stud Farm home. Carriage rides, horseback riding trails, and the “Tale of Lipica” show are big draws. The famous breed was initially developed for the Habsburg Empire and the stud farm dates to 1580. lipica.org

5. River Rafting Slovenians consider the River Kolpa on the Croatian border the country’s longest coastline. Raft or canoe with a private guide through gorges, rapids, and gravel beds surrounded by untouched forests known for their biodiversity. The Kolpa is also popular with anglers. slovenia.info

3. Orange Wine Explore the mysteries of the hugely popular orange wine at the Prus Wine Cellar, a stone’s throw from Croatia in the White Carniola region. Simply put, orange wine is a white made like a red. Oenophile adventures include a chilled red and white blend called Cvicek favored by locals. vinaprus.si

6. STAY: Posestvo Pule This large, scenic estate situated on a plateau in the middle of a forest has been around for so many generations that each of the nine cabins is named for an ancestral wife. About an hour’s drive from Ljubljana, it serves as a tranquil haven and a jumping-off point for outdoor adventures. From $200; pule.si w —Frank Vizard

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Haute Living THE MAGIC CITY’S BURGEONING DOWNTOWN IS A HOTBED OF PREMIUM INDULGENCES. 1. Brickell City Centre This sky-scraping shopping mecca is the new heart of downtown. Shop exclusive retail outposts from Italian fragrance brand Acqua di Parma to Spanish label Mirto, and dine at the tri-level Italian food hall La Centrale (from one of the folks behind restaurant Sant Ambroeus). brickellcitycentre.com 2. Swan and Bar Bevy Nightlife mogul David Grutman and recording artist Pharrell Williams teamed up to create this two-level, restolounge duo in the Miami Design District, where music, food, mixology, and style excel. Opened last November, the indoor-outdoor venue currently reigns as the apex of the Miami scene. swanbevy.com 3. The Wynwood Walls Garden Within the Wynwood Walls street-art museum, this half-acre parcel opened in 2015 featuring three murals by American, Brazilian, and Portuguese graffiti artists, plus work covering once-discarded shipping containers and a highly photogenic, two-versus-three-dimensional mashup of sculptures and frescoes by visionaries like Eduardo Kobra and Vhils. thewynwoodwalls.com

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4. Kaido This cozy, Japanese-inspired cocktail lounge in the Design District commingles the talents of Miami chef Brad Kilgore and mixologist Nico de Soto (of Mace New York fame). Expect plates such as Floridian fugu (Kilgore’s take on lionfish sashimi) and Tokyostyle libations like the Hokkaido Sour, a potent mix that includes soy milk–washed Japanese whiskey and kombu bitters. kaidomiami.com 5. The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Miami Calling its signature treatments Time Rituals, this celeb-frequented and locally loved spa blocks off hours-long sessions to deliver personalized treatments that blend Thai, Balinese, Ayurvedic, European, and Chinese traditions with modern techniques. Request one of the six spa suites, where floor-to-ceiling windows overlook Biscayne Bay. mandarinoriental.com 6. STAY: SLS LUX Brickell Each of the 84 suites at this Yabu Pushelberg–designed hotel, which opened in June 2018, feels like a hyper-cool studio apartment that’s oh-so-Miami. The vibe is underscored by interiors melding the city’s notable design eras: art deco, mid-century modern, and contemporary. From $300; slslux.com  

Clockwise From Top Left: Robertharding/Alamy; Courtesy Swan and Bar Bevy/Morelli Brothers; Courtesy Wynwood Walls; Courtesy SLS LUX Brickell; Courtesy The Spa at Mandarin Oriental; Courtesy Kaido/Juan Fernando Ayora

MIAMI


Clockwise From Top Left: Stephen Frink; Masa Ushioda/BluePlanetArchive; Courtesy 121 Marina; Courtesy Bungalows Key Largo; Courtesy Taste of Redland/Angel Valentin; Masa Ushioda/BluePlanetArchive

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Authentic Allure AN HOUR’S DRIVE FROM THE GLITZ AND GLAM IS NATURAL BEAUTY AND RUSTIC APPEAL IN THE KEYS AND BEYOND. 1. The Fish House Adorned in license plates, braided lights, and faded signs, this kitschy restaurant is a Key Largo institution. A quintessentially Upper Keys vibe accompanies the region’s catches of the day—from yellowtail snapper to hogfish—prepared blackened, Jamaican jerked, or Matecumbe-style (topped with tomatoes, shallots, fresh basil, capers, olive oil, and lemon juice, then baked). fishhouse.com 2. Spiegel Grove Shipwreck This 510-foot retired Navy ship sunk in 2002 six miles off Key Largo. Now a holy grail among advanced dive sites, the wreckage teems with marine life from colorful coral and sponges to grouper, sharks, and barracuda. Rainbow Reef Dive Center runs regularly scheduled trips. rainbowreef.com 3. 121 Marina The Keys’ most coveted waterfront resort community Ocean Reef Club has completed 27 high-design, multi-bedroom condos. These are the first new-build units in over two decades for the 2,500-acre, density-sensitive members’ club, which houses a megamarina, a private airport, two 18-hole golf courses, a cooking school, and a cultural center. 121marina.com

4. Shark Valley Take an adrenaline-inducing, ranger-guided nighttime tour along the paved foot trails of the Shark River Slough at Everglades National Park. Observe alligators during their nocturnal prime. Only the adventurous need apply, and reservations are required one week prior by calling 305.221.8776. nps.gov 5. Taste of Redland’s Locavore Culinary Experience Discover Miami’s lesser-known agritourism industry through this ticketed locavore dinner and brunch program, which runs once per month from November to June (with the exception of March). The city’s most renowned chefs plate their creations at different local farms while the South Florida Symphony Orchestra entertains. tasteofredland.com 6. STAY: Bungalows Key Largo Reopening in late December, this adults-only, all-inclusive waterfront resort feels like a private island retreat. Beyond its gates lies a vast expanse of bike trails, bamboo gardens, bungalows with outdoor soaking tubs, and three tiki bars (including floating ones you can take to sea). Two-night minimum required. From $400/person, all-inclusive; bungalowskeylargo.com w —Paul Rubio

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THE SPICE OF AMERICAN LIFE Forget London! Cities across the US are finally getting serious about Indian food. by Shivani Vora

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ngland, home to an extensive number of top-quality Indian restaurants, is well-known for opening windows into modern Indian cuisine. The United States, by comparison, has favored heavily spiced and creamed North-Indian Mughlai houses and vegetarian South-Indian Udipi joints. But in the past few years, at least a dozen noteworthy Indian restaurants have opened in the country with acclaimed chefs running the culinary show. Stateside Indian eateries used to be dismal because America had no connection to India (unlike the United Kingdom, its longtime ruler), according

to Rashmi Uday Singh, the Mumbaibased food writer, television host, and cookbook author. Along with Danny Meyer, Mimi Sheraton, and other boldfacers of the food world, Singh sat on a panel 15 years ago that focused on Indian restaurants globally. “I remember saying how restaurants in the United States were nothing worth talking about and boring,” she says. Singh visited the United States this

NASHVILLE Female powerhouse chef Maneet Chauhan and husband Vivek Deora are the force behind Chaatable, a happening restaurant serving Indian street food that’s in the heart of the hip Sylvan Heights neighborhood. Similar to India, her eatery is a sensory overload of colors—brightly hued embroidered umbrellas hang from the ceiling, and one of the walls is lined with more than 40,000 bangles common in markets throughout the country. The food packs just as much boldness. Dishes are shareable and inspired by street food found in different parts of India, but they all have Chauhan’s inventive touch. The corn-ish, a combination of grilled corn, baby corn, and corn nuts seasoned with lime and a salty seasoning called chaat masala, is a can’t-miss, along with the beef short ribs with ginger and coriander, and either a half-roasted chicken or pork belly sorpotel curry with cinnamon and clove. On the drinks side, the beer program is strong and focused on artisanal ales like a saffron cardamom IPA, while the wine list veers away from the same old sweet varietals paired with Indian food. Look for dry whites and a robust list of reds including zinfandels and pinot noirs. chaatablenashville.com w

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Short ribs at Chaatable

past summer and says the scenario has drastically improved. “Indian places are now serving cuisine that’s playful, modern, and seriously good,” she says. “The settings are trendy, and the wine and cocktail lists are impressive.” The new generation of Indian restaurants spans from the West to the East Coast with Nashville included in between. Below are seven names getting—and worthy of—the buzz.

Courtesy Images From Top: Bindaas/Under A Bushel Photography; Chaatable/Daniel C. Rivera

Washington, D.C.’s Bindaas


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MIAMI Traditional meets modern at the sprawling Midtown Miami spot Maska Indian Kitchen + Bar, with airy ceilings, an open kitchen, and a large bar. Serious fans of Indian food will be thrilled to discover that Hemant Mathur is behind the cuisine. After all, he is the master behind top Indian restaurants in New York, including Tulsi and Devi, and was the first Michelin-starred Indian chef in the country. Mathur’s menu is full of familiar flavors and dishes, but with his signature twist on dishes like octopus masala with dill yogurt and kneaded lamb kebabs with saffron paratha and cilantro aioli. The tandoor dishes, such as the Maine lobster and the king oyster mushrooms, which pop with their soft, almost butter-like mouthfeel, are musts. Cocktails—a gin and tonic with mango foam—are inspired by India, and the wine list stands out for its extensive selection of rosés from around the world. They’re the perfect complement to both the spice and the Miami heat. maskamiami.com

At August 1 Five, salmon (below) and mango kulfi (below, right)

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Crack shrimp at Maska Indian Kitchen + Bar

SAN FRANCISCO In the heart of downtown San Francisco, hang next to city hall. August 1 Five, named after the date India won independence from the British, is a high-end boîte that’s a hot-ticket reservation. Owner Hetal Shah, a former digital advertising executive at Google, says she created the type of Indian restaurant that she missed having in the city—a chic place with inventive cuisine and a strong wine and spirits program. The airy dining room is inspired by the peacock, India’s national bird. Luscious blue and gold tones are everywhere, from the screens with peacock motifs to the velvet booths. Dishes hail from around India, but the menu, which changes seasonally, is nontraditional with elements of molecular gastronomy. The paneer kebab, for example, is accompanied by a dehydrated mustard oil powder while the spiced salmon has a lemongrass foam. The wine list is heavy on California producers and emphasizes lighterbodied pinot noirs and chardonnays from Sonoma and Napa. Cocktails are also a hit and include the Holi Cow with turmeric gin, vermouth, chartreuse, black pepper, citrus, and ginger. august1five.com


Courtesy Images, Clockwise From Top Right: GupShup/Katrine Moite; Tamarind Tribeca; Bindaas/Greg Powers; Adda Indian Canteen. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images, From Top: Maska Indian Kitchen + Bar (2); August 1 Five/Patricia Chang; August 1 Five (2)

NEW YORK From the décor to the cuisine, GupShup isn’t your traditional Indian restaurant: Decked out with vintage Bollywood posters and gold antique mirrors and chandeliers, the bi-level eatery rings of 1970s Mumbai. The scene is high energy with a cool crowd clientele of downtown types, and creative dishes are a mainstay in the lineup. Think thinly sliced beef in a bao bun, Indian spiced fried chicken, soft shell crab with toasted coconut, and guacamole with crispy okra. Ordering a cocktail is practically a requirement here. The options are extensive and infused with plenty of Indian flavors: the Monsoon Season features rum, passion fruit, lime, saffron, and cardamom; and the Bombay Peacock Society has gin, honey, egg white, saffron, cardamom, and lemon. On the non-alcoholic side, there’s the shikanji, a drink so refreshing that you won’t miss the booze. gupshupnyc.com

Salmon at GupShup

One of the most buzzed-about and acclaimed Indian restaurants in the country, Adda Indian Canteen is an intimate 40-seat space with an upbeat ambience and boldly flavored homestyle food. Owner Roni Mazumdar says that unlike most new eateries, his is about looking back rather than trying to reinterpret the classics. The menu spans dishes that Mazumdar and Executive Chef Chintan Pandya grew up eating in India and celebrates their roots and heritage. Look for plates like a whole pompano with mustard and cilantro, spicy goat curry presented with meat on the bones, a tandoori young chicken with chili and black salt, and chickpea and kale fritters. While Adda doesn’t have a license to serve spirits, its beers come from small breweries in Brooklyn and Queens. addanyc.com

Goan pork at Bindaas

So what if Tamarind Tribeca has been around for almost two decades? The restaurant was the “it” spot the moment it opened and is the godfather of fine-dining Indian food in the country. Still today, it’s a place to see and be seen. Harrison Ford, Taylor Swift, and Richard Gere are regulars at the sleek, two-story space with a vibe that matches the trendiest eateries Tamarind Tribeca around town. Much of the cuisine is farm-to-table: the team of chefs shops at markets in the city and designs dishes accordingly. Vegetarian and meat staples include Brussels sprouts with curry leaves and coconut, baby goat in a cardamom sauce, and venison chops with roasted chickpea flour, but seafood, a recent focus, is the star. The halibut with mace, cardamom, coconut, and ginger sauce; seared scallops with poppy seeds; and Dover sole baked in a clay pot are among the many pescatarian knockouts. Oenophiles heads up: The list spans more than 200 varietals including show-off names like Petrus and Caymus. The spirits list also turns heads with picks like Macallan 25 and Clase Azul añejo tequila. tamarindtribeca.com

WASHINGTON, D.C. Restaurateur Ashok Bajaj, the man behind D.C.’s legendary fine dining Indian restaurants Rasika and Bombay Club, has introduced casual but punchy fare with his latest concept, Bindaas. Both locations (in Cleveland Park and Foggy Bottom) are lively with groups of diners socializing over small plates and drinks, and both have open kitchens and old Bollywood

movies playing on TV screens. The cuisine is centered on street food from all over India, and the dishes are meant to be shared. Bhel puri (puffed rice with mango, mint, and cilantro), for example, comes from Mumbai; kathi rolls filled with lamb, chicken, or eggplant are from Calcutta; and uttapam, a lentil rice pancake, is a nod to South India. Then there are eclectic

picks like a bacon-cheese-chili naan and a list of curries served at food stalls off highways in India, such as a simple chicken with tomato, ginger, and garlic. While there’s a lengthy wine list, cocktails are the way to go and match well with the spices. The Instant Dharma with sparkling wine, tamarind, and tequila is a customer favorite. bindaasdc.com u

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Beyond the Wok Though Chengdu barely scrapes into the top 10 of Chinese cities by population, it has been ranked third—just behind Shanghai and Beijing—in luxury consumption. But as the capital of China’s Sichuan province, its richest asset is its cooking. by Mark Ellwood

The old city of Dujiangyan. Opposite: A split hot pot with Sichuan and mushroom broths for dunking and cooking meats and vegetables. 118 Fall 2019


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Jenny Huang/The New York Times​/Redux. Opposite Page: Thomas Linkel/laif/Redux


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he alleyways of this street market on the northern reaches of the city of Chengdu are rimmed with sacks and drums, each filled with spices—fennel seed, star anise, or ginger. There are piles of pellets as well, which look dry and shriveled, though in fact they’re fresh-picked. Popping one like an Altoid, it tingles on the tongue with a fizzing, lemony numbness. Just in season, it’s a Sichuan peppercorn, the misleadingly named staple of the local cuisine: Rather than a relative of the chili pepper, it’s part of the citrus family. More than just spices, the markets groan with produce, including red carrots, edamame on the vine, pea shoots, and kiwis, which the Chinese call “fuzzy monkeys.” There are trays of scarlet persimmons, earmarked for slurping messily once they reach peak ripeness. A truck laden with lotus root backs up toward a woman on her bike who holds position, angrily ringing her bell while a stall owner flares up a blowtorch and runs it deftly along the skin of a slaughtered pig to sear off the hair, right down to the trotters. The wafting smell of bacon is probably an illusion. As a visitor, it might seem trite to spend a day strolling through a suburban market in Chengdu—after all, most tourists come here for one thing: giant pandas. Around 80 percent of the world’s remaining wild panda population lives in Sichuan province, and it’s long drawn international visitors, especially to see the baby panda–rearing program at the research center on the outskirts of town. But the food in this city is as much of a treasure as those once endangered animals. Slowly, international visitors are learning what domestic tourists have long recognized: It’s worth traveling to Chengdu solely to eat. To locals, this city in China’s far west is not just the capital of the Sichuan province but also the country’s foremost gourmet destination. “Food is the only event here,” says Jordan Porter, a genial Canadian who’s lived in Chengdu for almost a decade. “Everything eventually turns into snacks—people go out for night snacks after dinner. Your whole day gets measured out in food stops.” Chengdu’s reputation among Chinese foodies—and increasingly, adventurous foreigners—is a combination of geography, history, and pride. Sichuan province,

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From Left: Ke Cao/Adobe; Courtesy Chengdu Food Tours/Anita Lai. Opposite Page, From Top: Stockinasia/Alamy; Courtesy Chengdu Food Tours (2)

Clockwise from far left: Chengdu’s Jinli Ancient Street, a traditional alleyway; steamed dim sum snacks; dry pots of duck and rabbit; pickled vegetables; jars of baijiu infused with fruits and herbs at a spirits vendor.

especially around Chengdu, is one of China’s most fertile areas, a low-lying basin that was irrigated early and easily. There’s a damp climate that allows almost any produce to thrive, so nothing in a suburban market was likely grown more than 20 miles away. (The homegrown food source also allowed the region to better weather the hardships and famines of Mao’s brutal regime in the 1950s and ’60s.) During the Imperial Era, Chengdu’s location made it a nexus of the Silk Road, bringing travelers and commerce from across the world, including the spices that form the backbone of Sichuan’s fiery, complex flavors. Fennel seed is originally Mediterranean, while bay leaf and cassia come from elsewhere in Asia; chili peppers, another staple, are from Mexico. The crucial final ingredient to its reputation for food is the local character: outward-looking and ferociously proud of its culture. “Sichuan is one of the most populated provinces in China and you can find Sichuan people across the country. As they traveled, they brought their culture of food with them,” explains Charlie Moseley, a game developer and photographer originally from Washington, D.C. “Food is important everywhere in China, but in Chengdu, it’s a religion.” Prized above all other regional delicacies, its reputation precedes it; there are few successful restaurants selling Shanghai-style xiao long bao, for example. Shanghai exported those soup dumplings to Chinese restaurants around the world, but the cuisine from the capital of Sichuan forms the backbone of the restaurants’ menus— and with little credit. Mapo tofu, the garlicky, braised dish sprinkled with deep-fried minced meat, was first cooked up

here, as was peanutty kung pao chicken, usually sprinkled with a generous handful of those tingly peppercorns. Hot pot is also a Sichuanese concept. At this fondue-like meal, diners dredge meats and vegetables in a broth at the table’s center, cooking each mouthful to order. There are restaurants that offer this stateside, of course, but they differ markedly from the hot pot joints here: The oily broth is spicier, laced with chilies and more peppercorns, and the morsels are as likely to be cow stomach or duck tongue as chunks of chicken breast. Canadian expat Porter noticed Chengdu’s devotion to food when he arrived after college and greedily explored the backstreet cafés and markets, but it was only four years ago that he turned his hobby into a business called Chengdu Food Tours (chengdufoodtours.com). Porter is now the foremost guide squiring curious visitors around Chengdu’s secret foodie corners. He escorts them to markets, cafés, and restaurants with a rangy energy, hopping in and out of taxis to zigzag across the city’s crowded streets. At one market, he pulls up in front of a stall lined with enamel trays holding brightly colored ribbons and strange, furry cubes. He picks up one of the latter and breathes in the funky aroma. Though it smells and tastes much like a ripe blue cheese, this is tofu, fermented with bacteria and doused in chili and salt. Another stall is selling douban sauce, the chili and fava bean paste that provides much of Chendunese cooking with its delicious umami kick, whether added to hot pot or used when braising mapo tofu. Porter has particular expertise in baijiu, which has a long history here. One of the country’s foremost distilleries, Shui w

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Clockwise from top: A bread dough filled with meat and peppercorns, then rolled up, fried, and baked to a crisp; Sichuan peppercorns at the wholesale market; bowls of sweet-water noodles. Opposite: The Temple House grounds; Studio 90 in the hotel. 122 Fall 2019


Courtesy The Temple House (2). Opposite Page: Courtesy Chengdu Food Tours (3)

Jing Fang, still operates downtown. He is determined to help the Chinese liquor reclaim its unfair reputation as hooch-like firewater. He stops at a stand full of giant earthenware jars, their mouths covered in scarlet cloth. The stall owner grabs an empty old bottle of Poland Spring, sluices it clean with neat alcohol, and dredges in the murky liquid. Aromatic and soft on the palate, it’s a revelation. “Baijiu should always be paired with food,” Porter says, slightly apologetically. “So, I often run private, custom tours and events, where we incorporate baijiu into tastings at different spots.” The restaurants where he chooses to do this are unlikely, at least at first glance. Take the guo kui store (more like a closet than a café) where a few older ladies work ferociously, warming a pita-like bread on a tandoor oven–style lid before stuffing the pouch with shredded beef and crunchy bamboo. A garlicky cross between a falafel and a sloppy joe, the moreish delight costs around 70 cents; paper money is dropped into a dish so no cooks’ hands touch it. “She started out, this grandma, with a cart, but there are laws against that now,” Porter says, nodding and smiling with one of the women. “Now she doesn’t franchise, but you can stage with her and then open a shop selling these, as long as you don’t do it in Chengdu.” The bowl of sweet-water noodles at another so-called fly restaurant (because of the buzz as people rapidly come and go) arrives in less than a minute. Cool and chewy, smothered in a chili sauce and sprinkled with sugar, they’re the perfect balance between savory and sweet. Chengdunese food, while gourmet, has a refreshingly homestyle edge with an unfussy focus on ingredients.

No wonder that even the city’s finest dining spots are unassuming. The most popular conceit is a private kitchen. Diners are essentially visiting a chef at home, where he or she will cook a meal for them, as if their guest. Gui Mian is typical of this idea, set on a quiet side street with little indication that it differs from the houses around it. When a waitress spots a confused visitor pacing the street, she dashes outside to welcome them in. The small front room has little atmosphere— the lights are neon-bright and there’s no music—but the 18-course meal is extraordinary. Each dish is a few mouthfuls: a single vegetable dumpling, for instance, or a piece of chicken, tender enough to melt in the mouth, sitting in gleaming, rich broth. A palate-cleansing tofu with peanuts and peppercorn oil tingles on the lips, and inside a hot and sour soup floats a small, firm-fleshed sea cucumber. But that isn’t the most unusual ingredient Porter showcases. Rabbit is another staple of Sichuanese cuisine, and many of the snack stands dotted around the market feature racks of them, spit-roasted and crispy; the meat is pulled off in chunks, doused in chili and sesame oil, and eaten from an aluminum pouch like warm, fresh jerky. Only one part is reserved: the head, which sits in a heated case, staring out silently, and Porter orders one to try. It tastes gamey, though it’s hard to find the meat, the tongue searching each crevice. That rabbit head snack is the embodiment of Chengdunese cuisine: simple, unexpected, and packed with flavor. “Food is a game of flavor, not just sustenance,” Porter swoons. “The meal is the party—you want to extend it, slow it down, hang out with all of the flavor, and interact with it—almost like having a conversation.” u

Go and Stay Hainan Airlines (hainanairlines.com), the high-end, China-based carrier, provides several nonstop routes to Chengdu from major American gateways, including LAX and JFK. The best place to stay is The Temple House complex (from $270, thetemplehousehotel.com), a luxury hotel that sits in the heart of the city and includes a converted temple on its grounds, now used as a spa and restaurant.


A World Without Chocolate? A doomsday scenario sparks a strong reaction to a reality that no one wants—and reveals the important steps chocolate purveyors are taking to ensure a healthy cacao crop for generations. by Irene Rawlings

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hen Business Insider ran the headline “Chocolate is on track to go extinct in 40 years,” the claim sparked global panic. But as the internet raged about imminent chocolate annihilation according to the 2017 article, scientists at the University of California, Berkeley cringed. The Berkeley team quoted in the piece had partnered with the now 108-year-old candy company Mars, Inc. (Snickers, Milky Way, and M&Ms) to tweak cacao plant DNA. But the work was not motivated by any proof that the crop would soon be dying out completely. The universal interest in maintaining a robust, long-term supply of high-quality chocolate remains undisputed. Mars’ Sustainable in a Generation Plan is working to slash its carbon emissions by 67 percent by mid-century and is funding scientists to develop a drought- and disease-resistant cacao tree—which is, in fact, already needed. The Berkeley team is using the new technology called CRISPR that allows for tiny, precise tweaks to DNA that were never possible before. The tweaks are already being used to make crops cheaper and more reliable as the impacts of climate change, including more pests and a lack of water, become everyday reality. Threats to the cacao crop demand attention today. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) reports that July 2019 was the hottest month in its database, which extends back to 1880. Without research funds and corporate oversight, the nearly 5 million smallholder (5 acres or less) cacao farmers are especially vulnerable to the potentially devastating effects of environmental change. Experts believe that by 2050, the cacao crop will have a smaller range in which

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to grow—particularly in the Ivory Coast and Ghana, which produce more than 50 percent of the world’s supply. The global chocolate market tops $100 billion, with demand already outpacing supply. Cacao trees are evergreen, growing about 30 feet high and producing oblong, foot-long fruit with between 20 and 60 reddish-brown cacao beans inside. It takes about 500 beans to produce a single pound of chocolate and the process is hugely labor intensive. The trees thrive in a region about 20 degrees north and south of the equator and only under specific conditions: consistent temperatures below 95 degrees Fahrenheit, high humidity, rich soil, and protection from sun and wind. It’s predicted that areas like these could shrink by as much as 30 percent over the next 20 years. The trees historically grow best in rainforests, where deforestation reached alarming highs in July 2019. According to Brazil’s National Institute for Space Research, the number of fires in rainforests—all of which are caused by slash-and-burn deforestation—is 80 percent higher than during a comparable period last year. The rate of burning is the fastest it’s been since record keeping began in 2013. Bloomberg.com reports that blazes in Angola and the Democratic Republic of Congo are destroying twice as many acres as the more widely publicized fires in the Amazon. By clearing the rainforest for farmland, farmers decrease biodiversity and increase global warming, so cacao farming becomes its own destructive cycle. The Rainforest Alliance has partnered with the World Cocoa Foundation as well as regional NGOs to return cacao farming to its sustainable roots, by using natural biocides instead of chemical pesticides and w

Inti St. Clair/Cavan Images. Opposite Page, Clockwise From Top Left: Courtesy To’ak Chocolate; Design Pics/National Geographic Image Collection; Jason Edwards/National Geographic Stock; Karen Robinson/Panos/Redux

NATURE


Clockwise: Growing cacao in Indonesia; a cacao fruit cracked open; cacao beans laid out to dry for full flavor; after drying, the beans are roasted and processed into chocolate.


Norway’s Svalbard Global Seed Vault near the Arctic Circle

Feast, Not Famine Taste-test some of the world’s finest chocolate confections.

teaching proper irrigation, composting, and sustainable soil management. The alarming rate at which distinctive cacao varieties are disappearing has caused organizations like Cocoa Research Centre to launch sample collection expeditions to cacao-growing regions. The seeds of endangered plants are transferred to the Svalbard Global Seed Vault (created by the nonprofit Crop Trust). Located inside a mountain on a remote island halfway between Norway and the Arctic Circle, the cache safely preserves more than 900,000 of the world’s seed samples, cacao and otherwise. To build a more stable cacao supply chain, Pennsylvaniabased Hershey Company is launching a half-billion-dollar strategy to end deforestation and is working with the Ghanaian government to protect the rainforests of the country’s Kakum National Park. “A particular commodity like cacao has a very finite number of places on the planet where it can grow, that’s why we’re taking action now,” says Jeff King, senior director of sustainability, corporate social responsibility, and social innovation at Hershey. Rainforests and unique microclimates at the headwaters of the Amazon River (Columbia, Ecuador, and Peru) contribute to the world’s richest and most diverse species of cacao. Jerry Toth, co-founder of To’ak, is a forest conservationist turned chocolatier. He first located a grove of 16 old-growth trees, nine of which were heirloom pure Nacional trees, and now the farmers who work with him have 189 seedlings under cultivation. “We started paying farmers up to eight times more than the standard rate in Ecuador,” he says. The word spread, communicating to farmers that old growth was valuable. Toth is developing the premium market for pure Nacional— famous for its earthy, floral aroma—charging from $280/50 grams. While he is very concerned about habitat destruction, he doesn’t expect to be living in a world without chocolate. “Consumers can pay attention to where their chocolate comes from and under what conditions it was grown. On the packaging, look for the country, the area, and the specific farmers’ cooperative,” says Toth. Shoppers buying at a chocolate shop can ask if the chocolate is certified organic or fair trade. “If we get into a situation where no place on the planet can grow cacao, we have a larger problem than no chocolate.”

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Ginger Elizabeth’s locally sourced California truffles GINGER ELIZABETH, Sacramento, California A fresh spin on traditional truffles: Raspberry Rose Geranium, Eureka Lemon, Bergamot Pale Ale. Responsibly sourced couverture chocolate made with cream and butter from local NorCal farms. $24/12 pieces. gingerelizabeth.com TEUSCHER CHOCOLATES OF SWITZERLAND, Zurich Chocolate made from a proprietary blend of cacao; the cream comes from Teuscher’s herd of Brown Swiss cows. Champagne truffles, invented here in 1932, are still made with Dom Pérignon. $112/pound; teuscher.com


Courtesy Images, Clockwise From Top: Kreuther Handcrafted Chocolate; Courtesy To’ak Chocolate (2); Patrick Roger. Opposite Page, From Top: Pal Hermansen/Nature PL; Courtesy Francisco Chavira

VOSGES HAUT-CHOCOLAT, Chicago Owner Katrina Markoff, a pioneer in the bacon-and-chocolate trend, blends chocolate with Mexican vanilla beans or Argentinean dulce de leche. Try the olio d’oliva cacao truffles. $32/nine pieces; vosgeschocolate.com PAUL A. YOUNG, London Three tiny, jewel-box shops in London keep treats with esoteric flavor combos—recently, harissa and tahini; coconut and tonka bean latte; and Caribbean sunset. Everything is made fresh and nothing is shipped. $9/four pieces; paulayoung.co.uk PATRICK ROGER, Paris The French purveyor harvests his own honey and grows almonds on his farm in France. Stop at any of the company’s shops throughout the city to admire chocolate sculptures and dioramas. Buy a box of candied chestnuts. $26/eight pieces; patrickroger.com

Chocolate sculptures at Patrick Roger

Kreuther Handcrafted Chocolate

KREUTHER HANDCRAFTED CHOCOLATE, New York Chocolatier and pastry chef Marc Aumont spent his childhood in his father’s patisserie in Chamonix-Mont Blanc. His smoothas-silk bonbons unfurl on the tongue like a sensory poem. Single-origin chocolate flavored with saffron and honey recalls summers in the south of France. From $75/pound; kreutherchocolate.com CHRISTOPHE ARTISAN CHOCOLATIER - PÂTISSIER, Charleston, South Carolina A third-generation French chocolatier transplanted to the American South, Christophe Paume uses classic recipes and techniques for his opulent truffles and chocolate sculptures. $39/dark chocolate Eiffel Tower; christophechocolatier.com L.A. BURDICK, Boston Larry Burdick sources his robust chocolate from small, family-owned farms in Grenada. The signature almond-eared chocolate mice are toothsome darlings. $34/nine mice in wooden box; burdickchocolate.com KATE WEISER, Dallas Expect a riotous array of spatter-painted Venezuelan-chocolate bonbons and adventuresome flavor combos (mangohabanero, strawberry-basil, pistachiogianduja). $18/six pieces; kateweiserchocolate.com CHOCOVIVO, Los Angeles Owner Patricia Tsai sources cacao from a small farm in Mexico. She grinds the nibs into chocolate using an ancient Mayan stone grinder. $15/limited-edition Heirloom Bar; chocovivo.com

Sweet Relief For clients wishing to become even more involved with the cause for chocolate, firsthand experience bears no competition. To’ak has teamed up with luxe tour operator Brown + Hudson on a bespoke trip to the rainforests of Ecuador to meet farmers who are saving heritage cacao trees. From $7,300/four days; brownandhudson.com Master chocolatier Amelia Rope, the founder of London-based Amelia Rope Chocolate, takes travelers with Wild Frontiers deep into the central highlands of Columbia to visit cacao farmers and nosh with locals. From $6,048/14 days; wildfrontierstravel.com A river cruise offered by TourRadar in the south of France, from Chalonsur-Saône to Marseille, serves the local Châteauneuf-du-Pape between stays in historic monasteries and tastings at the eco-responsible Valrhona Chocolates, founded in 1922. From $8,250/13 days; tourradar.com u To’ak

*Most ship nationally and internationally from November through April. Prices do not include shipping.

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GETAWAYS

SCAVENGER HUNTS Colorful, culinary-driven adventures are meeting the ever-growing demand of personalized custom experiences—and the star of the show is chef. by Alix Strauss

Fresh-caught lionfish seasoned and served. Opposite, clockwise from top: Secret Bay’s villas are hidden among lush vegetation; infinity pools offer mountain-peak views; open-air villas feature sustainably sourced hardwoods; spearing pesky but tasty lionfish for dinner.

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which takes guests 15 minutes out to sea as they learn about the breed and receive a step-by-step spearing education. To be successful, the activity ($292/couple) requires free diving at least 10 feet; or guests may opt to snorkel and watch their guide dive down. Back on land, Chef Grant Lynott prepares their catch of the day, which is then served in the privacy of their villa. Says Lynott, “Lionfish—which are most similar in taste and texture to hake, white and flaky—aren’t poisonous to eat, but they do present an immense danger to the ecosystem. The aggressive and resilient species is ironically a delicate and beautiful fish to cook with.” secretbay.dm w

Courtesy Secret Bay (5)

ix sustainably crafted, freestanding villas make up the eco-luxury boutique hotel Secret Bay on the Caribbean island of Dominica. Known as the Nature Island (75 percent is rain forest), the spot was significantly damaged by Hurricane Maria. Secret Bay reopened last November, renovated with a new spa and restaurant. While in residence, guests can try their hand at spearing lionfish in Prince Rupert Bay. Though strikingly beautiful and exotic, the invasive and destructive ocean species can cause extinctions of native sea plants and marine life. Meet outfitter Captain Don on the beach and spend the next several hours on his 40-foot Angler Yamaha motorboat,

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ungi fans can find obscure mushrooms such as Bear’s Head Tooth, Chicken of the Woods, Hedgehog, and The King Bolete at Northern Georgia’s Barnsley Resort. Situated 60 miles outside of Atlanta, the 1840s 150-room estate keeps Southern sensibilities at every turn. Among the outdoor offerings is a 28-station sporting clays course; a wing-shooting area; and a robust mushroom and herb hunting program, including chickweed, wild garlic, watercress, bamboo shoots, grape leaves, muscadine, wild mint, ginger, mayapple, elderberries, red clover, and huckleberries.

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90-minute drive from Cape Town in the Cape Winelands region, the allinclusive, 11-room Birkenhead House overlooks the whale-watching haven of Walker Bay. Aside from lounging in the cliffside pool spotting wave-riding surfers and breaching humpbacks, guests can go foraging for wild mussels with the property’s chef. Small groups of up to six guests spend 2.5 hours hunting African brown mussels (Imbaza) and European

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During the two-hour experience ($250/ person), guests find ingredients for their lunch among creeks, ponds, and wooded areas across the estate’s 3,000 acres with resident chef and certified mushroom guide Evan Babb. “A forage is like a thrilling hunt where you find something in an unexpected place, making it feel like a new discovery,” says Babb. A cooking demonstration follows, using the found mushrooms and herbs to prepare a meal served either in the living room of the Outpost store or outside in the beer garden. Bonus: Participants leave with a grow-your-own-mushroom kit. barnsleyresort.com

mussels (bay mussels), and then learn how to cook them in a hands-on class. The search involves scaling a short cliff to the rocky coastline where the burred shellfish hide among crashing waves. The gastronomic prep takes place in the property’s kitchen, incorporating local ingredients while discussing the history of South African cuisine and the Cape Malay influence. A multicourse meal follows. “Mussel picking and coastal foraging

draw attention to the smaller details of the marine environment—offering insights such as which seaweeds are best to use in which dishes, what flavors and textures will enhance a dish,” says Executive Chef Oliver Coetzee. “The best time for foraging wild mussels is during the winter, as they tend to be plumper. Larger mussels are often found lower down on the rocks, closer to the waterline.” theroyalportfolio.com


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Courtesy Images, Clockwise From Top Left: YTL Hotels (2); Grand Velas Riviera Maya (3). Opposite Page, Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top Left: Barnsley Resort (4); Birkenhead House (2)

n a 300-acre island off the west coast of Malaysia, Pangkor Laut Resort offers the choice of an overwater bungalow, a hill villa overlooking the Strait of Malacca, or a butler-staffed estate residence with a private pool. And among the many activities is a private, half-day gastronomical journey dubbed Chef’s Kitchen Experience ($99/person). Guests meet the chef at 9 a.m. for a short boat ride to Pangkor Island to shop

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ooking for an underground rainwater pool experience? Grand Velas Riviera Maya, set on 206 acres of jungle and mangroves, delivers this, plus the opportunity to dine 60 feet below the earth’s surface (priced from $7,000 for up to eight people) in one of the destination’s newly discovered cenotes. “Found throughout the Yucatan Peninsula, cenotes are natural water pools once revered by the Mayans as sacred wells,” says Michel Mustiere, culinary director at the resort. “We thought it would be a unique idea to showcase these distinct geological features in an exclusive culinary experience.” To reach the special spot, guests take a two-hour car ride through the jungle and, when the road becomes too narrow, walk the last 10 minutes of the trip. They use a ladder to climb down into an underworld of stalagmites and stalactites where they can swim in crystal-clear water before having a three-course picnic of resort-made bread, cheeses, and an authentic Mexican taco bar prepared

dried seafood stores and stalls selling street food, souvenirs, and coffee. They make stops to learn the trade from an authentic noodle maker and visit an anchovy facility to see how thousands are sorted and dried open air–style in a space the size of a football field. Then they catch lunch from a flat-bottomed sampan boat and recoup with the resort spa’s Signature Bath House Ritual, which combines Japanese, Chinese, and Malay bathing traditions.

They meet again with the chef to prepare a three-course meal while learning secrets of Southeast Asian cooking then dine on sea bass in coconut sauce, stir-fried chicken with chili and cashews, and prawn tempura. Says General Manager Derrick Gooch, “The experience really immerses guests in Pangkor’s local community. They witness the cooking process firsthand and get to see where the ingredients come from.” pangkorlautresort.com

Clockwise from left: Pangkor Laut’s overwater bungalow; in the chef ’s kitchen; a newly discovered cenote; the Grand Velas pool; fresh fish at Azul, a beachside dining venue. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Foraging for mushrooms; out in the forest; Barnsley Resort; firepit seating; Birkenhead House; justpicked wild mussels.

by Mustiere. A tasting of tequila and ancestral drinks like bacanora, sotol, tuxca, and pox follows. “Guests will learn how these ancestral recipes came to be and how they are being reinvented and reintroduced to a modern palate in new cocktail recipes,” says Mustiere. grandvelas.com w

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or serious oenophiles, 12 hours and around $36,000 is all that’s needed to experience Grand Velas Los Cabos’ Over-the-Top Wine Lovers Experience for two with two-star Michelin chef Sidney Schutte. Located between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, the allinclusive property offers 300-plus oceanview suites, each over 1,200 square feet with a private terrace and plunge pool. The package includes a three-night stay in a Grand Class suite, wine-infused spa treatments (a red wine bath and grape mud massage), and a chance to make your own vintage. Participants fly two hours by private jet from the resort to the burgeoning wine country Valle de Guadalupe on the

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northern tip of the Baja Peninsula. Led by vintner Don Pedro Poncelis Jr., the private tour covers three wineries, with six varietal tastings at each. Sip Gran Ricardo at Monte Xanic; Gran Amado, Sombrero, and Grimau at Viñas de Garza; and Vino de Piedra and Espuma de Piedra at Casa de Piedra. The final destination allows guests to make their own custom blend from a variety of vintages and varietals. A multicourse tasting menu by Schutte is served among the grape vines at a table for two. “We modeled our wine getaway after the most exclusive ones in France,” says Poncelis Jr. “But this is unique because it is to Mexico’s lesserknown but highly regarded wine region in Ensenada.” grandvelas.com u

Clockwise from top: Grand Velas Los Cabos; the Grand Class suite with an oceanfront view; an oyster dish; two-star Michelin chef Sidney Schutte.


Our members return each year as faithfully as the tides.

Situated on 2,500 acres of unspoiled paradise, Ocean Reef provides a long list of unsurpassed amenities to its Members including a 175-slip marina, two 18-hole golf courses, tennis facilities, state-of-the-art medical center, K-8 school, private airport and more. There are only two ways to experience Ocean Reef Club’s Unique Way of Life – as a guest of a member or through the pages of Living magazine. Visit OceanReefClubMagazine.com or call 305.367.5921 to request your complimentary copy.

P R I VAT E

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HIGH VOLTAGE ELECTRIC HAS FINALLY REACHED LIGHTNING SPEED WITH TWO-WHEELED MODES OF TRANSPORTATION. HOP ON FOR A CHARGED-UP RIDE. Photography FRANKIE BATISTA Styling HEIDI MEEK

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arly two-wheeled electric vehicles paired the novelty of silent propulsion with an unfortunate compendium of downsides, among them clunky operation and anxietyinducing range. Two remarkable new EV models—the Zero SR/F motorcycle and the RION2 RE80 e-scooter— prove meteoric progress has been made on all fronts. The fully evolved expression of the battery-powered sport motorcycle from Santa Cruz, California–based startup Zero Motorcycles is all but unrecognizable from the 13-year-old brand’s initial EVs, which were closer to glorified mountain bikes than well-rounded motorcycles. Though the SR/F’s false tank mimics the fuel reservoirs of internal combustion motorcycles, the hump contains a storage compartment with dual USB ports for cell phone or accessory charging. Nestled beneath is a lithium-ion battery pack, which couples to an aircooled motor producing some serious grunt: 110 horsepower and 140 ft. lb. of torque. That power is capable of whisking the bike to 60 mph in a scant 3.5 seconds, with a top speed of 124 mph. Cracking open the throttle induces an intoxicating rush of acceleration that delivers fierce but surprisingly Zen-like sensations: just over a subtle mechanical whine, you can hear birds chirping while scooting along at obscene speeds. Unlike brutishly quick gas-powered superbikes whose power plants are plumbed with ignition wires and cooling fixtures, the Zero’s packaging is tidy: the monolithic battery pack lends an intriguing visual intersection with 45-degree corners strengthening the steel trellis frame. A suite of electronics

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includes a customizable LCD dashboard, a sophisticated stability control system, and an app that uses cellular data to transmit key info on charge state and security alerts. Offering up to 161 miles of range in city riding, or a combined range of 109 miles (based on 70 mph highway cruising speeds), the SR/F is capable of recharging in 80 minutes, or 60 minutes when equipped with the optional $2,300 rapid charger. Ridesharing companies like Bird and Lime get a bad rap for their sidewalk-littering rides, but that hasn’t stopped entrepreneur Gal Hagoel from building what he dubs the world’s first supersport e-scooter. RION Motors makes beefy and geometrically faceted machines, utilizing carbon-fiber construction and high-performance hardware that bears little resemblance to the ubiquitous ridesharing e-scooters. Incorporating performance hardware that includes a 19,200watt motor and an 80-volt battery, RION’s flagship RE80 model is capable of hitting a ludicrous 80 mph—enough to get you arrested in any state, especially if you’re indiscreet enough to be flying down the sidewalk. Thankfully a smartphone app can dial down the power and responsiveness, taming the fearsome two-wheeler into a more approachable ride. RION’s scooters are built by hand in Los Angeles with top-shelf components including brakes sourced from mountain bike component manufacturer Magura. Currently available is a $5,500 standard model with a top speed of 60 mph and 30–40 miles of range. The top-dog RE80 version is $1,000 extra and can travel 30 miles before needing a recharge. —Basem Wasef


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LOOK VINCE jacket, $1,795; vince.com RAG & BONE shirt, $150; rag-bone.com PAIGE jeans, $200; paige.com FRYE boots, $328; thefryecompany.com DAINESE gloves, $120; dainese.com ARAI helmet, $700; araiamericas.com ZERO SR/F, $18,995; zeromotorcycles.com

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JOHN VARVATOS jacket, $398; johnvarvatos.com JAMES PERSE shirt, $115; jamesperse.com FRAME jeans, $210; frame-store.com VANS shoes, $70; vans.com TUMI messenger bag, $325; tumi.com RION2 RE80, $6,500; rionmotors.com

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POWER YOUR RIDE The latest accessories to enhance your tour. Don’t go riding at warp speed without the proper safety gear. For protection that’s as techy as your battery-powered steed, it doesn’t get more future-forward than the Dainese Tuono D-air leather jacket. The Italianmade jacket features perforated leather and CE-rated armor for impact protection. But the pièce de résistance is a safety system that utilizes three built-in accelerometers and gyroscopes to detect dangerous situations, protecting your chest with an instantly inflatable airbag as needed. $1,700; dainese.com Need a quick battery fill-up at home? The ChargePoint Home Flex EV Charger claims the speediest charge times, thanks to adjustable amperage up to a robust 50-amp connection offering charging speeds up to nine times more than through a standard wall outlet. The WiFi-enabled unit can be programmed to set reminders and schedule charging anytime. $700; chargepoint.com The Cardo Freecom 4+ is a small, waterproof accessory that brings music streaming and telephone calls to the comfort of your motorcycle helmet. A natural voice-command system encourages hands-free operation so you can tackle your favorite road without fiddling with controls, and a Bluetooth intercom enables group chats with other riders with nearly a mile of range. $250; cardosystems.com

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CLEAN MACHINES THE LATEST HIGH-DESIGN HOUSEHOLD PRODUCTS HARNESS SMART TECHNOLOGY TO GET THE JOB DONE. by Ted Alan Stedman

The four-wheel drive robotic pool cleaner Polaris 9650iQ Sport with Wi-Fi connectivity drives along the pool’s bottom and climbs all the way to the surface tiles while two large, rotating scrubbing brushes remove dirt and algae from hard surfaces. A large debris opening captures bigger objects that are collected in the oversize canister and the iAquaLink control app lets you set the cleaning schedule anywhere, anytime from a smartphone. In manual mode, the Polaris 9650iQ Sport can be directed to target and clean where needed. In auto mode, the cleaning pattern can be customized and follow a weekly seven-day run schedule. After the job is done, use the easy-lift retrieval system to remove it from the water, empty the debris canister, and place it on its dedicated storage caddy. $1,500; polarispool.com 140 Fall 2019


Courtesy Images, From Top Left: iRobot (2); Withings. Opposite Page: Courtesy Polaris

IRobot’s newest model Roomba s9+ may be the most intelligent robot vacuum to date, taking aim at deep cleaning nooks, crannies, corners, and edges with improved suction lift, as well as PerfectEdge Technology and the newly designed Corner Brush. Mapping the home for ultra-efficient sweeps has also advanced to best-in-class with vSLAM navigation technology that uses an optical sensor to record more than 230,400 data points per second, enabling the s9+ to learn, map, and adapt to any floor plan. The robot is also a workhorse for trapping pollen and mold allergens with its AntiAllergen System that claims a 99-percent capture rate. And forget about routine emptying, the s9+ unloads the mess into its own base-bin docking/recharging station that holds 30 bin runs. $1,400; irobot.com

Step onto the Withings Body Cardio smart scale to take a comprehensive snapshot of your health. In addition to taking extremely accurate weight and BMI measurements, the machine uses heart-rate sensors to check cardiovascular health and uploads data to the Health Mate app, which tracks activity, sleep, weight, and other data points. For goal seekers, the app displays information on the effectiveness of workout activities and provides data on users’ trends and progress over time. At a svelte .7-inches thick with a solid aluminum base, Body Cardio has no feet to adjust, making it the thinnest, most-stable scale available. $150; withings.com w

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Save a trip to the dry cleaners with the inhome LG Styler Clothing Care System. Using a menu display on the appliance, which looks like a mirrored armoire, set one of three modes—refresh, sanitary, or gentle dry—to complete any combination of heating, steaming, and drying cycles. LG’s TrueSteam technology eliminates over 99.9 percent of the germs and bacteria found in clothing, while the unit’s moving shake removes wrinkles and odors. A Gentle Dry feature quickly removes moisture, while the Styler’s Pants Crease Care feature ensures a neat, tidy look by eliminating wrinkles and creating a crisp crease line without using an iron. Two sizes are available, refreshing up to five garments simultaneously, including fulllength coats. $2,000; lg.com

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Pollution outside can affect the air we breathe inside, which is why Luxury Living Group partnered with biotech firm U-earth to create the Amadahy Pure Air System. The medicalquality air purifier for the home cleans an area of more than 1,000 square feet (a volume equivalent to 276 oak trees) by deploying a powerful bioreactor to harness water and electrical currents that attract, bond, and effectively digest collected contaminants, resulting in a virtually pollutant-free environment. The system can be housed in any of the several beautifully crafted, customizable enclosures that integrate with the modern home décor LLG is known for. Once the system is installed, use the app to monitor daily quantities of removed pollution and take care of general maintenance. From $6,860; luxurylivinggroup.com u

Courtesy Images, From Top Left: LG; Dyson; Luxury Living Group

The Dyson Pure Cool TP04 purifying tower fan captures airborne pollutants while projecting clean air with its 350-degrees of oscillation. Using a HEPA and activated carbon filters, the fully sealed filter system removes gases while capturing 99.97 percent of allergens and pollutants as small as 0.3 microns. The unit alerts users on its LCD screen and via the Dyson Link app when nitrogen dioxide, pet dander, allergens, and VOCs (volatile organic compounds) are detected. The resulting data is analyzed and displayed as an overall indoor Air Quality Index. The bladeless fan produces a powerful airflow of more than 77 gallons per second. At nighttime, a special sleep mode monitors and purifies while using a quiet setting. Being Alexacompatible, you can control the unit using simple voice commands. $550; dyson.com


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SEA WORTHY

VISIONARY DESIGNERS AND ARCHITECTS ARE TAKING PIVOTAL CONCEPT CUES FROM OUTSIDE THE CRUISE INDUSTRY TO OFFER PASSENGERS A NEW WAVE OF ONBOARD INNOVATIONS. by Kathryn Romeyn

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t’s a new age on the high seas for cruising, with innovations in ship design and avant-garde, immersive experiences aboard. “For me, a cruise ship is the sum of all its parts,” says acclaimed architect Tom Wright of WKK, who collaborated on Celebrity Edge, a standout vessel that along with several others showcases the industry’s latest and greatest. “Until now the luxury cruise business has been quite classical; it’s nice to go to what feels like a super upmarket luxury hotel, but at sea.” The bolder approach du jour stretches well beyond staid notions of boundaries expected at sea, sometimes even surpassing what’s done on land. Brands are thinking outside the box to captivate guests, with creative teams cracking open the possibilities. Take Ponant, whose French architectoceanographer Jacques Rougerie dreamed up a whale-inspired, multisensory subaquatic lounge. Blue Eye, says Rougerie, “offers passengers the precious opportunity to become pioneers, explorers of the marine depths, discovering the underwater biodiversity as dreamed of by Jules Verne in 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.” Whether it’s carrying out such a fantastical vision on a grand scale or making nuanced edits to seamlessly marry a vessel to its environment, says Regent Seven Seas Cruises president and CEO Jason Montague, “Perfecting luxury is about obsessing over large and small details.” w

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From Left, Courtesy: StudioPONANT/Frédéric Michel; Celebrity Cruises/Steve Dunlop

The Resort Deck on Celebrity Edge. Opposite: Ponant’s expedition vessel Le Dumont-d’Urville.

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CELEBRITY EDGE

With Celebrity Edge, Celebrity Cruises broke the mold and reinvented cruising by contracting a handful of A-list architects and designers whose immense collective experience was previously land-based. An industry first, the entire 2,918-passenger, 1,004-foot ship was designed in 3-D virtual reality. Says Wright, “While designing we had the ability to virtually look around the corner or walk around the back of a chair to see if the view works.” He used such tools to realize an Alice in Wonderland–like Rooftop Garden (with bursts of flora tended by a resident horticulturist) and a painted steel Magic Carpet (a tennis court– sized cantilevered platform that scales the ship). To make room for both an alfresco dining venue and an outdoor pool, he devised a terraced deck with an asymmetrical, 75-foot pool and martini glass–shaped hot tubs on glass stems teetering above. Parisian design agency Jouin Manku (the duo behind the Eiffel Tower’s Le Jules Verne restaurant) innovated many public spaces, including The Grand Plaza, where a five-tier, 765-blade chandelier is lit by color-changing LED strips. Ship builders inspired a lenticular corridor where welders’ touches and engineers’ notes are intentionally bared. From one direction, passengers view the ship’s steel bones; from the other they’re immersed in a slick, modern installation. Acclaimed Spanish architect and designer Patricia Urquiola contributed her own furniture designs and tropical hanging plant pillars to Eden, a three-deck venue with nearly 7,000 square feet of outward-facing glass (the most of any room currently at sea). For the lush, sun-soaked space boasting sensuous curves juxtaposed by geometric shapes, Scott Butler, AIA, of Wilson Butler Architects found inspiration in the Fibonacci sequence. Kelly Hoppen of Kelly Hoppen Interiors furnished the serene Retreat Sundeck with hanging chairs and the entrance of the 22,000-square-foot spa with a mesmerizing crystal installation and dense marble reception desk. “I wanted a statement piece on arrival to create that first ‘wow’ moment as guests walk in,” Hoppen says. Hoppen’s distinctive aesthetic extends to a pair of twobedroom Penthouse Suites with soaking tubs on their verandas and cashmere mattresses. With consideration for how materials look both at port and at sea, Hoppen chose a neutral palette emphasizing clean lines and geometric patterns enhanced by layers of texture and vintage glamour. High-tech controls in the Edge Villa duplexes (and throughout all staterooms) open the living space to the water’s edge with the push of a button. “It boasts a double-height [atrium] and outdoor plunge pool, but the really beautiful aspect is its glass box, which gives you a full view of the ocean and yet feels private enough that you could be in your own apartment,” she describes. Also new from the cruise line is Celebrity Flora, a 100-passenger superyacht custom built for year-round Galápagos sailings from Baltra, equipped with Oceanscope Technology to gather critical research data at sea, plus oneof-a-kind furniture by designer Adriana Hoyos and interiors by Francesca Bucci of BG Studio. celebritycruises.com Upcoming Itineraries

Mediterranean Transatlantic, Nov. 1–15, 2019 • Eastern Caribbean Cruise, Dec. 15–22, 2019 • Italy, Croatia, and Montenegro, May 4–15, 2020

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Courtesy Studio Ponant Stirling Design International. Opposite Page: Courtesy Celebrity Cruises (2)

GAME-CHANGING AQUATIC ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN


Le Dumont-d’Urville’s Blue Eye lounge. Opposite from top: The Vista on Flora; a Villa bedroom on Edge; the Grand Plaza on Edge.

PONANT LE DUMONT-D’URVILLE

BREAKTHROUGH MULTI-SENSORY EXPERIENCE Forget the usual song-and-dance shows on cruise ships. On niche French cruise line Ponant’s latest spawn of six Explorers Series sister ships, it’s a space inside the hull that wins for best entertainment. Each ship is cloaked in a unique color, its 92 staterooms and bay window–studded suites designed by JeanPhilippe Nuel, who outfitted them as he would for a yachting client rather than for a cruise ship. Dubbed Blue Eye, this dreamlike lounge in the hull of Le Dumont-d’Urville envelops passengers with underwater sound compositions while they recline on smart, body-listening sofas that transmit discreet vibrations for a one-of-a-kind immersion into the marine universe. And two cetacean eye–shaped portholes look out to actual underwater scenes. “The interior design of the Blue Eye lounge is based on biomimetics, so that the traveler is in osmosis with the underwater world,” says Rougerie, who conceived what he describes as an “organic and fluid space inspired by the baleens of the whale, enveloping the spectator.”

Indeed, sensual shapes and curvilinear silhouettes, all lit magically, achieve an otherworldly environment. There are large mirror screens that diffuse a digital creation of evanescent jellyfish, photo-luminescent organisms, or the seabed as filmed by three specially designed, non-invasive underwater cameras. Contemporary music composer Michel Redolfi devised the state-of-the-art sound staging in which submarine hydrophones give way to a soundtrack of marine life songs and aquatic waves featuring not just whales and dolphins but surprisingly loud krill. A similar innovation was pioneered by Ponant’s polar expedition ship. It’s the fourth in the series of ecologically sensitive, adventure-ready vessels giving passengers an easy, immersive, and snorkel-free experience. In lieu of the standard centered pool there’s an infinity-edge stunner at the stern for further opportunities to witness great oceanic biodiversity. us.ponant.com w

Upcoming Itineraries

Ocean Voyage: Dakar to Fort-de-France, Nov. 4–13, 2019 (Le Dumont-d’Urville) • Exploring the Indonesian Archipelago, Nov. 25–Dec. 6, 2019 (Le Laperouse) The Essential Seychelles, Dec. 6–14, 2019 (Le Bougainville) Fall 2019 147


Courtesy Regent Seven Seas Cruises (4)

REGENT SEVEN SEAS SPLENDOR THE MOST OPULENT SUITE AT SEA

With its forthcoming Seven Seas Splendor, Regent’s eyes were fixed on one thing: fastidious attention to detail. Setting sail in 2020, the vessel will accommodate 750 with an expansive passenger-to-space ratio and exceptionally low guest-to-crew ratio. It is at once spacious and intimate, with a no-expensespared approach to fine craftsmanship and lavish amenities. Studio DADO’s Greg Walton and Yohandel Ruiz evoke an enchanting English garden in the Observation Lounge, with a tranquil, airy palette; traditional English architectural

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molding; and plush, curved furniture. Unique pieces in the space include a sprawling chandelier of porcelain flowers and an artwork commissioned by Gorman Studios featuring handpainted English roses on glass screens. Accommodations inspired by Park Avenue homes are opulent and supremely tailored, swathed in high-contrast materials (rich woods, marble mosaics, mother-of-pearl, jewel-toned accents). With regard to the stitching on the Grand Suite’s upholstered leather wall and a nightstand drawer lined in


Upcoming Itineraries

• Splendor at Sea, Barcelona to Miami, Feb. 6–20, 2020 • Perfection Across the Atlantic, New York to Barcelona, Apr. 16–30, 2020 • Culture, Cuisine, and Celebration, Rome to Barcelona, May 21–28, 2020

Clockwise from left: The large wet bar and floor-to-ceiling views in the Regent Suite; the custom Vividus bed by Hästens; the opulent dining room; the grand living room.

suede, says Walton, “we wanted the suite to reveal itself through a series of small surprises.” Even more opulent is the Regent Suite, which debuted on the Seven Seas Explorer in 2016 but was improved upon for this vessel. It’s one of the largest at sea, with a 3,000-square-foot interior and 1,292-square-foot balcony. Paulina Blasiak of Tillberg Design devised the two-bedroom clad in Italian marble and exotic wood, with a custom Treesse mini-pool spa overlooking the bow. “We increased the size of the gilded, insuite spa (which includes unlimited Canyon Ranch treatments) by 30 percent,” says Blasiak, “to incorporate a stunning floor-to-ceiling, oceanfront shower with views that rival the captain’s.” The centerpiece is a custom $200,000 Vividus bed from Hästens, which is being built by four master artisans in Köping, Sweden. The pinewood frame and layers of flax, horsetail hair, and cotton and wool batting require “more than 300 hours of labor and an 18-month timeline to complete,” says Blasiak. “The mattress will be the most luxurious bed at sea.” rssc.com w


Courtesy Seabourn/Eric Laignel (3)

SEABOURN OVATION

NUANCED INNOVATION IN SMALL-SHIP CRUISING Designing for comfort takes on new meaning aboard Ovation, Seabourn’s newest small ship. Many guests move into the graceful vessel for several weeks or even months on lengthy itineraries that curl around continents and hop between islands. While in residence, their living room is the reimagined Seabourn Square, turned inside out so conversations with concierges can be more frequent and casual. There’s also a large library and massive art collection on display. “In order to make this grand gesture of hospitality, the design became a signature of the

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ship with a whole gestalt of curves, softness, and openness,” says hospitality designer Adam D. Tihany of Tihany Design. Custom furnishings were chosen to create intimacy and connection. “The design of Ovation comes down to the nuances—the curves; the easy, natural flow from one space to the next,” says Tihany. A Nordic style historically pervaded Seabourn’s fleet, but with Ovation (and its precursor, sister ship Encore) Tihany introduced what he calls “a warm Italian sensibility.” Think polished mahogany, walnut and teak; marble,


Upcoming Itineraries

• 18-Day Moroccan Magic and Spanish Isles, Oct. 12–30, 2019 • 18-Day Route to Ancient Wellness in Arabia, Nov. 13–Dec. 2, 2019 • 14-Day Holiday Thailand and Vietnam, Dec. 21, 2019–Jan. 4, 2020

Clockwise from left: The Wintergarden Suite’s private deck and spacious bath; the Penthouse Suite features glass doors that open to a veranda; the Signature Suite offers expansive ocean views.

bronze glass, and a slew of stone and granite. Large, clean-lined verandas grace all 300 suites, as well as residential touches such as walk-in closets, separate bathtubs, stocked bars, and gracious sitting rooms. The Owner’s Suites look like Presidential Suites at a Peninsula hotel, with dining tables large enough to invite friends over, whirlpool tubs, and panoramic vistas. Among the distinct dining venues that Tihany designed are the Restaurant (a formal, ballroomlike setting complete with chandeliers), a crisp and modern Japanese sushi boîte, and The Grill by Thomas Keller, which captures the spirit of ’50s and ’60s American restaurants. Keller says he researched “the language of public spaces at that time, when corporate America was creating the most interesting, thoughtful, and sophisticated interiors—all featuring incredible art.” Taking British pub and traditional American steakhouse influences, he imagined a perfectly contemporary take on throwback glamour with black-and-white photography of that era by Eve Arnold, William Helburn, and Alexander Liberman, plus two expressive Frank Stella lithographs. Throughout the ship are more than 1,600 pieces, representing almost 120 artists from five continents. Artlink curated the assembly Tihany calls a “holistic and intrinsic component of the ship’s design,” particularly the lagoon-green Venetian Murano glass Luciano Vistosi sculpture in the Atrium, which “infuses a bespoke, artisanal quality that anchors the entire art collection.” Vases by Korean ceramic artist Yoo Eui Jeong, hand-embroidered mixed-media photographs by Chile’s Jose Romussi, and a pigmented porcelain wall sculpture by Brazilian Valéria Nascimento are all testament to Ovation’s impressive global awareness. seabourn.com w

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The King Bedroom, one of only 10 staterooms on the boutique hotel– like megayacht.

ECOVENTURA THEORY

Named for Darwin’s groundbreaking book, Theory launched in March from sustainable cruising leader Ecoventura. The 142-foot megayacht is essentially a floating boutique hotel, sleeping just 20 guests in 10 serene, white staterooms. “The beauty is outside in the Galápagos Islands—you don’t want to take away from that,” says Ecuadorian interior designer Cindy Muirragui of her simple, un-distracting approach. Giant windows abound (even in the spacious showers), and the palette virtually disappears into the surroundings: silver matches the sparkle of the Pacific as the sun rises and falls, and blues blend in midday. “The truth is it was all my imagination,” says Muirragui, “what I imagined to be in Galápagos, luxury without being too stuffy, something that would remain in time.” At the core of the Ecoventura ethos is operating eco-friendly vessels with features such as Theory’s ecological toilets, advanced water treatment systems, biodegradable toiletries, and state-of-the-art bow design alongside top-shelf amenities and interiors. While most Galápagos vessels adhere to the Upcoming Itineraries

national park’s required 1:16 crew to guest ratio, it’s 1:10 aboard Theory, plus two experienced naturalists, on each voyage. Materials used onboard include exotic stones and crystals, and petrified teak. In the lounge where geography and photography lectures are held, the ceiling is hand-painted to mimic solid wood coffers, while gray and white upholstery and leather sofas echo spotted eagle rays and bottlenose dolphins. Agate lamps evoke the archipelago’s lava flows and coffee tables are fashioned with twisted root bases mirroring the distinctive flora. The onyx bar is lit from within and furnished with stools the exact color of the famed blue-footed booby. Most furnishings were made by local Ecuadorian craftsmen and carpenters, including marble nightstands, kingsize beds, armchairs, and daybeds in Muirragui’s favorite spot: the hot tub on the sundeck. “When you come in from tours at 5 p.m., it’s like you’re in another world,” she says of sprawling on the papasan chairs and loungers decked in a Sunbrella motif that invokes the redfooted booby’s blue-rimmed eyes. ecoventura.com u

Ecoventura Theory alternates Itinerary A (southern and central Galápagos) and Itinerary B (northern and western Galápagos) on a Sunday-to-Sunday schedule year-round, and is available for charters. 152 Fall 2019

Courtesy Ecoventura

ADVANCED SUSTAINABILITY MEETS SUMPTUOUS MINIMALISM


Located in the Missouri Ozark Mountains overlooking Table Rock Lake, Big Cedar Lodge offers inviting accommodations, spectacular restaurants and unparalleled nature attractions. Featuring four golf courses by the world’s top designers, an 18,000 square-foot spa, two marinas, a natural history museum and so much more, Big Cedar Lodge is the ideal destination. Call or visit the website to plan your getaway today.

Ranked the #1 Resort in the Midwest for 3 Consecutive Years – Travel and Leisure Magazine

877.267.6259 | BIGCEDAR.COM


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Courtesy St. Regis Hotel/Brandon BarrĂŠ


ARCHITECTURE & DESIGN

THE DINING SET BOLD INTERIOR DESIGNS ARE THE PLAT DU JOUR AT NEW EATERIES AROUND THE WORLD. by Jorge S. Arango

Louix Louis at the St. Regis Toronto

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Restaurant: Louix Louis, louixlouis.com Hotel: The St. Regis Toronto, stregis.com Architecture & Design: DesignAgency, thedesignagency.ca Square feet: 3,720 Number of seats: 137 Chef: Guillaume Robin The spirits (metaphysically speaking) of William Gooderham and James Worts live on in Toronto, where in the 19th century, Gooderham & Worts distilled half the alcohol in Canada. When confabbing about the design of Louix Louis, the new

31st-floor restaurant with a two-story bar in the St. Regis, Allen Chan, principal of DesignAgency, recalls someone asking, “How do you make a space feel like

you’re looking out from the inside of a whisky bottle?”

The answer? A swirl

of warm caramel and gold tones, walnut-wood paneling, and smoked, beveled glass panels that look like cut crystal. “It should be like a warm embrace,” says Chan,

“like when you’re cradling a whisky glass in your hand.” The liquid quality of a great

single malt comes through in the Roma Imperial marble bar (“The movement of the stone was very important”) and overhead in an abstract Bouquet of Whisky mural by local artist Madison van Rijn. 156 Fall 2019

Courtesy St. Regis Hotel/Brandon Barré (2). Opposite Page: Courtesy Imperial Treasure (3)

1. TORONTO, CANADA


2. LONDON, ENGLAND

Restaurant: Imperial Treasure, imperialtreasure.com Architecture: Archer Humphryes Architects, archerhumphryes.com Design: Studio Liaigre, liaigre.com Square feet: 5,385 Number of seats: 141 Chef: No single person The 19th-century bank building at 7-10 Waterloo Place in the St. James district has been invaded by the Chinese and the French. Now home to Imperial Treasure, a

Michelin-starred collection of eateries (this one specializing in Peking duck), it has been given chic new life by Frauke Meyer, creative director of the famous French

luxury concern Studio Liaigre. As a landmarked building, architectural features had to remain intact. But within that, says Meyer, “was an opportunity for

the Studio to demonstrate our taste for precision and great materials, and to mix English, Chinese, and French inspirations.” The walls and

spirit telegraph British 19th-century style. But, explains Meyer, “we chose to focus on

stunning signature materials such as dark, tinted brushed oak, refined stones, and Sun

onyx.” Liaigre also stitched together different colored leathers to upholster the dramatic banquettes, which recall mountain ranges in Chinese landscape paintings. w

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158 Fall 2019

Courtesy Humbert & Poyet/Francis Amiand (3)


3. PARIS, FRANCE

Restaurant: Beefbar Paris, beefbar.com Architecture & Design: Humbert et Poyet, humbertpoyet.com Square feet: 2,215 Number of seats: 130 Chef: Gabriele Faiella

“Working with a monumental and historical space is a gift for an architect,” says Emil Humbert, “a source of inspiration and, at the same time, the

opportunity to design and interpret the space with imagination.” Their rich canvas was Emil Hurtré’s 1898 Langham Hotel in the eighth arrondissement, which for years was the famed brasserie Fermette Marbeuf. Divided into a bifurcated “1900 room” dripping with ornamentation and a sleeker bar, Humbert explains how the firm

transformed the spaces for modern carnivores: “The relevance to today can be found

in the selection of furnishings, finishes, and lighting, which are contemporary but remain connected to Art Nouveau (green tones, heavily patterned flooring) and Art Deco

(marble elements, etched walls, aged mirrors, lacquered walnut, brass fittings). The floral motifs in the 1900 room inspired the creation of the floor pattern and the design of the monumental ironwork door.” w

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Restaurant: The Y, +7.929.929.01.23 Architecture & Design: Asthetíque, asthetique.com Square feet: 6,000 Number of seats: 220 Chef: Vladimir Schetinin

Designers Julien Albertini and Alina Pimkina of New York–based firm Asthetíque are talking ’bout their generation, and have conceived a restaurant in its honor. “We grew up with ’70s furniture and smooth, rounded edges, pastels, and lots of brass,” says Pimkina, thereby encapsulating the major aesthetic influences behind The Y. Another influence: the genius work of filmmaker Wes Anderson. “His

colors, the way he uses symmetry and creates scenes that are like postcards,” says Pimkina, “it’s dreamy and beautiful,

gentle, and a bit naïve with romantic flourishes.” Hamovniki, the neighborhood where The Y is located on two floors of a new residential building, is experiencing an influx of Gen Yers who, Pimkina notes, “are young in passion and spirit and closer to their kids than their parents were.” Ergo an on-site playroom. All ages are welcome, of course, though Gen Xers and up might feel a bit seasoned.

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Courtesy The Y/Mikhail Loskutov (3). Opposite Page: Courtesy Estuary/Sammy Todd Dyess (2)

4. MOSCOW, RUSSIA


5. WASHINGTON, D.C.

Restaurant: Estuary, estuarydc.com Hotel: Conrad Washington D.C., conradhotels.com Architecture: Herzog & de Meuron, herzogdemeuron.com Design: Rottet Studio, rottetstudio.com Square feet: 5,207 Number of seats: 130 Chefs: Bryan and Michael Voltaggio A powerhouse design team convened for the second phase of CityCenterDC, a mixed-use

development by the great starchitects Herzog & de Meuron that occupies an entire city block. Its anchor, Hilton’s Conrad Washington D.C., features the Estuary restaurant and wine room

by designer Lauren Rottet. “Conceptually I looked at it as a contemporary version

of an early American village,” says Rottet. “The armories, which were round and held

the guns and the gold, were focal points. I envisioned the bar as the arsenal and the gold as the spirits and cigars.” In the adjacent wine room, Windsor-like chairs and a wall of tiles featuring

fragments of Williamsburg china further evoke colonial times. The palette is neutral, “the color of materials as they come out of the earth, the way they once were,” says Rottet, “because the

focus is on the view and the experience.” The one exception? A fire-engine-red Molteni stove. w Fall 2019 161


162 Fall 2019

Courtesy Kallos Turin/Juan Hitters (4)


6. BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA

Restaurant: Casa Cavia, casacavia.com Architecture: KallosTurin, kallosturin .com, with Mercer Seward Arquitectos, mercerseward.com.ar Design: KallosTurin, kallosturin.com Square feet: 4,520 (restaurant & bar) Number of seats: 60 (restaurant) Chef: Julieta Caruso Though still a privileged enclave, the Palermo Chico barrio has seen many of

its gracious mansions, built for the Buenos Aires elite early in the 20th century,

demolished by developers. One exception is a Belle Époque beauty erected in 1927

by architect and artist Alejandro Christophersen. To respect the building’s residential provenance, owner Guadalupe Garcia Mosqueda and restaurant designers decided

to spread out the eatery and bar over various smaller rooms, rather than gutting it to

create one contiguous, commercial-feeling space. “The owners who acquired the

building,” says Stephania Kallos, co-founder at KallosTurin, “knew they wanted to have their publishing house on the upper level and create a food concept that related to the literary theme. So, books are a design motif throughout the project.” The material palette recalls villas and restaurants of the 1920s and ’30s: white and green marble, brass, antiqued mirror, terrazzo, and leather. Landscape architecture firm Bulla Paisajismo transformed the courtyard into a lush urban garden with a raised pool reflecting the surrounding high-rises. w

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7. PORTO CERVO, SARDINIA

Restaurant: Quattro Passi al Pescatore, alpescatoreportocervo.com Hotel: Hotel Cervo, marriott.com Architecture: Jacques Couelle (1960s) Design: Blacksheep, blacksheep.uk.com Square feet: 4,380 Number of seats: 200 Chef: Antonio Mellino

“Famous for a bygone era of celebrity and wealth, Hotel Cervo tasked us with maintaining the natural spirit of place while injecting a new future of possibility,” says Blacksheep founder and CEO Tim Mutton. Design

associate Michele Owen elaborates: “We approached the design with the utmost

respect for Prince Aga Khan and the legacy he left in Porto Cervo. The architecture

remained mainly untouched and formed an integral part of our design.” Nevertheless,

Blacksheep took some creative license. “We created organic stone forms—the bar, and

the DJ and seafood counters—to appear as if they’d been part of the architecture from the start,” Owen explains. These were made of travertine with significant gray veining “to contrast with the light interior” and Sardinian honed Orosei marble. Blacksheep also refurbished the lime plaster walls, Sardinian timber roofing, stone corbels, and

rustic terra-cotta floors that still host the glamourati on day trips from their yachts.

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8. NEW YORK, NEW YORK

Restaurant: Mar, littlespain.com Architecture and Design: Capella Garcia Arquitectura, capellagarcia.com, with ICrave, icrave.com Square feet: 549 Number of seats: 43 Chef: Victor Rivera

Courtesy Mar (2). Opposite Page: Quattro Passi al Pescatore/Kate Berry (3)

Mercado Little Spain is to Spanish cuisine what Eataly has been to Italian food

in New York: a 35,000-square-foot food hall featuring all things Iberian that was

conceived by José Andrés and brothers Ferran and Albert Adrià. The restaurant Mar

is in a back corner with low ceilings. “This is where the idea of a mural of the

Ibiza coastline by Javier Mariscal came about,” says interior designer Juli Capella, “in order to give visual depth and not feel like you’re in a closed space. It’s like you are on a terrace facing the sea, eating delicious fish.” Mar is also a showcase for Spanish design, with tiles from Vives (“It has an excellent catalog that combines tradition and modernity”); wood veneer lighting from LZF Lamps (“like

small blue and white clouds over the heads of diners”); surfaces from Cosentino (“like marble fish stalls in the Spanish markets but a lot more resistant”); and comfortable chairs from Sancal. u

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FURNISHINGS

SIMPLE TOUCHES Textured surfaces are in. From knurled metal door handles and etched pulls to coarse wallcoverings and nubby, knotted fabrics, it’s all about touch and the warmth that texture imparts to every environment. by Jorge S. Arango

Spirulina-like extrusions encrust the perfectly turned surface of Lone Skov Madsen’s sculpture Blue Organic Vessel. J. Lohmann Gallery represents the Danish ceramist in the United States. $3,800; jlohmanngallery.com

Kohler caters to changeable tastes with the customizable Tailor apron front sink, offering a collection of inserts that slide into the apron front. Some standard inserts are textured, but customers can also create unique looks. $1,295–$1,495 (sink), $345–$1,095 (panels); kohler.com For his Etnastone tables, named after the Sicilian volcano and exhibited at Twenty First Gallery, Emmanuel Babled worked with Italian craftsmen, incorporating lava stone to create highly textured forms finished with over 40 luminous enamel glazes. $9,500–$48,000; 21stgallery.com

Echinothrix Imago Sui, a labor-intensive wall sculpture by English artist Rowan Mersh (repped by the UK’s Gallery Fumi), uses thousands of tiger sea urchin spines to create an undulating convex surface with many peaks and troughs. Price upon request; galleryfumi.com 166 Fall 2019

Wiltshire, England–based design studio Fenella Elms casts thousands of porcelain discs, then assembles them like scales onto flat surfaces. Aptly named Flow, the wall-mounted and freestanding works elicit a sweeping sense of movement and “active trance of intention.” $8,000–$30,000; fenellaelms.com


Courtesy Images, Clockwise From Top Left: Artistic Tile/Lori Weitzner; Warp & Weft; Marie Burgos Design; Wolf Gordon; Elitis; J. Lohmann Gallery; Les Atelier Courbet; Ashley Norton. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: J. Lohmann Gallery; Twenty First Gallery; Gallery Fumi; Kohler

The name Meander, a new rug for Warp & Weft by designers Andrew Kline and Ruoxi Wang of Workshop/APD, refers to the paths that crisscross dunes on Nantucket beaches. Trails of looped hemp add subtle texture to the soft silk and cut-pile wool expanses. Prices upon request; warpandweft.com

Lori Weitzner drew on her knowledge of textile design to create the dimensional Forest and River, two stone tile designs for Artistic Tile. Etched patterns create color and texture contrast between the natural matte stone and polished stone surfaces. $110/square foot; artistictile.com The Luxe Modern collection of lever sets from Ashley Norton cuts a clean contemporary profile, but knurling and reeding give the designs a textured grip. Made of high-quality brass, they’re available in seven finishes. From $230; ashleynorton.com

For Unity, a group of 10 unique vessels recently unveiled at New York design gallery Les Ateliers Courbet, architect and industrial designer Marc Thorpe brings the glassmakers of Venini together with master weavers from Dakar, Senegal, to create a series of mixed-media vessels that recall both African headrest silhouettes and Memphis design. Prices upon request; ateliercourbet.com

The latest addition to the collections at Marie Burgos Design is The Bride lighting collection by Ieva Kaleja for Latvia-based Mammalampa. Two sizes of pendants and a floor and table lamp are made by weaving lengths of crumpled paper by hand into unique shades. $1,580–$2,590; marieburgosdesignthestore.com

Cork wallcovering and upholstery offerings from Wolf-Gordon have a luxurious, suedelike hand and a richly organic countenance. The material—made from the bark of cork trees, which regenerate within 10 years—is durable enough for contract use. $63.50–$122.50/roll (wallcovering), $120– $140/yard (upholstery); wolfgordon.com

The new coordinated collections from Patrice Marraud des Grotte’s French fabric, wallcovering and wallpaper house Élitis encourage mixing and matching weaves with fire-retardant satins, indoor-outdoor textiles, and handcrafted linens and wallcoverings to create lush combinations of textures. To the trade only; elitis.fr w Fall 2019 167


SHINE ON Euroluce, held every other year in Milan, is the world’s premier venue for innovative lighting. Here are some of the most exciting designs to come out of the April 2019 event.

Mytilus, a new pendant and wall lamp from Arturo Alvarez, evokes the species of marine mussel for which it is named. A wire mesh shade in the shape of a shell encloses the shining, pearl-like bulb. From $1,275; arturo-alvarez.com

Architect and designer Ramón Esteve evokes piano keys with his Black Note collection of fixtures for LZF Lamps. LED lights concealed inside wood veneer cylinders are placed rhythmically along a metal bar, rising and falling as if on a musical stave. $1,990–$2,990; lzf-lamps.com

Architect and designer Ferruccio Laviani wanted to “get back to glass” when designing UpTown for Foscarini, table and floor lamps that stand vertically like skyscrapers. The Art Deco and Memphis design movements inspired the use of PMMA and chrome-plated metal overlaid with screen-printed glass layers of solid yellow, red, and blue. From $4,395; foscarini.com 168 Fall 2019

Courtesy Images, Clockwise From Top: Pulpo; Arturo Alvarez; Foscarini; LZF Lamps; Innermost. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top Left: Lasvit; Lladro; FLOS/Stefania Giorgi; Louis Poulsen; Gabriel Scott; CTO Lighting

Designed by Melissa Yip for Innermost, Bud is the company’s first rechargeable cordless design. Naoto Fukasawa’s Muji electric kettle inspired the design, a plastic base in one of six cheery colors cradling a round bulb that is adjustable by a threestep dimmer function. $125; innermost.net

Wunderkind thirtysomething Sebastian Herkner (Designer of the Year at Paris’ prestigious Maison et Objet design show) created the Stellar line of pendant lighting for Pulpo. Bases and handblown glass bubbles with a frosted acetate finish (like the Stellar Grape fixture shown) come in a variety of color combinations. $510–$3,250; pulpoproducts.com


Iconic Spanish porcelain house Lladró has teamed up with Dutch designer Marcel Wanders to introduce Nightbloom, a matte porcelain lighting collection that includes pendant, table, wall, and floor lamps. Inspired by flower petals blowing in the wind, each component is carefully placed to produce a soft glow from the LED center. $2,150–$5,100; lladro.com Mária Čulenová worked with Czech-based Lasvit to create Aura, a chandelier of handblown glass and metal that depicts lunar phases. Like the moon, the glass shapes reflect light rather than emit it and their textured surfaces resemble a lunar landscape. $89,000; lasvit.com

Overlap, Michael Anastassiades’ new pendant for FLOS, employs a spray-on polymer technique first used by the company in the 1960s with Tobia Scarpa and the Castiglioni brothers. Perpendicularly anchored rings appear to be pushing through the thin, white coating, creating simple yet sensual curves. $2,995–$3,495; usa.flos.com

Dutch-born Marjan van Aubel is a solar designer interested in sustainability, design, and technology. Her Cyanometer for Swarovski Crystal Palace forms a ring of white opal crystals that collect light and emit a bluish and reddish glow. Available as a ceiling, floor, or wall light. $13,500–$17,000; swarovski.com

Artés Collective, a new line of pendant, floor, and wall lamps from CTO Lighting, fuses honed alabaster with minimalist beams of bronze and satin brass details. They can be hung singly or in clusters as an installation. Single pendants $2,700–$4,045, cluster of three pendants $8,760–$10,785; ctolighting.co.uk Luna, by Canada-based studio Gabriel Scott, is a modular fixture combining tube glass, metal hardware, and smoked and colored glass globes. Inspired by the moon’s diffuse light, it can be infinitely configured—stacked vertically as a pendant or sprawled horizontally as a chandelier— depending on the assembly of parts. From $850; gabriel-scott.com

Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson’s new OE Quasi Light for Louis Poulsen is a juxtaposition of complex geometries. The pendant lamp has an outer aluminum icosahedron shell (20-faceted) with cutouts showing a glowing polycarbonate core (12-faceted). LED lights on the inner vertices of the shell illuminate the core, which warmly reflects light back out into the room. $18,000; louispoulsen.com w Fall 2019 169


GREATER GOODS

Marigold Living’s limited-edition Uma and Zoya patchwork quilts are sourced from a nonprofit organization that helps women in India earn a living wage and supports childhood education. The designs incorporate southern Indian kalamkari block printing and hand stitching. $375; marigoldliving.com Since its introduction in 1978, I Balocchi has arguably become Italian fixture maker Fantini Rubinetti’s most popular design. Today, sales of the iconic faucets are donated to a project the company established in Burundi: a 16-mile aqueduct that brings fresh drinking water to 25,000 people in the Masango region. From $787; fantiniusa.com

The textured, natural bedding products of Threaded come from suppliers who support female empowerment in India and use solar power, recycled water, and harm-free dyes, and do not employ plastics in production. From $40 (sham) to $330 (duvet); threadedhome.com

Monodon, a new silk and wool rug from Lindström, both depicts and contributes to the protection of the beloved narwhal. Proceeds go to the World Wildlife Fund’s efforts to preserve the specie. The company is part of GoodWeave International, which also works to end child labor in the rug industry. $100/square foot; lindstromrugs.com 170 Fall 2019

Courtesy Images, From Top: Marigold Living; Lindstrom; Threaded; Fantini. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top Left: David Trubridge; Laro; Hudson Furniture; Tracy Glover; Kitu Kali

The companies behind these well-designed home accessories go above and beyond to make the world a better place by donating financial and intellectual resources to various noble causes.


Pendant light designs Maru and Navicula, from New Zealand–based David Trubridge, are inspired by the shapes of microscopic diatoms that live in the ocean and produce more oxygen than the rainforests of the world. Fifty dollars from each purchase is donated to the Ocean Recovery Alliance, which works to reduce plastic pollution on land and sea. From $6,950; wakanine.com

The women behind Láro want to end human trafficking by empowering indigenous women in Philippine villages with jobs making handbags that incorporate weaving, embroidery, and beadwork. Ten percent of proceeds go to antitrafficking organizations. From $110; $145 for Sarah (shown); shoplaro.com

Kitu Kali is a partnership formed by three UK-based Kenyans. Their handmade shoes offer employment to artisans living in the African country’s capital, Nairobi. Bold, colorful designs are crafted using recycled materials for the insides and bright Ankara cotton fabrics outside. From $60 (kids) and $80 (adults); kitukali.com

Rhode Island–based glass artist Tracy Glover collects scraps from the production of other work in her studio and transforms them into End of Day rocks glasses, available in multiple colors. Then she donates 10 percent of the proceeds to the National Brain Tumor Society. $50 each; tracygloverstudio.com

Every purchase of the Koko table lamp by Hudson Furniture helps fund protection programs for endangered Silverback gorillas and also contributes to educational programs for Kenyan children. Designed by Barlas Baylar, it’s made of solid bronze with a linen shade. $11,050; hudsonfurnitureinc.com u Fall 2019 171


Cathedrals of Culture NEW MUSEUMS AND ARTISTIC VENUES ARE RISING AT A FURIOUS PACE ACROSS THE GLOBE. by Jason Edward Kaufman

I

t seems that every major urban center has a significant new or expanding museum—the next big thing designed by a leading architecture firm. The art capitals of Europe and the United States perpetually enrich their already abundant offerings, and major cultural projects are constantly one-upping each other in China and the Middle East. Though museums serve social and educational functions that improve the quality of life for local citizens, government investment in culture is usually motivated by civic pride and a desire to bolster the economy by attracting tourists. Egypt is constructing the largest archaeological museum in the world, the Grand Egyptian Museum near the Giza Pyramids outside Cairo. The main attraction to the massive complex (designed by Dublin’s Heneghan Peng

172 Fall 2019

Architects) will be 100,000 objects from King Tut’s tomb. The billion-dollar initiative, projected to open in 2022, will hopefully revive tourism depleted by political unrest since the Arab Spring. Abu Dhabi has partnered with Western museums in an effort to become the Persian Gulf’s cultural hub. The Louvre Abu Dhabi opened last year, and construction is to proceed on the long-stalled Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, a structure designed by Frank Gehry that is 12 times the size of the Guggenheim in New York. China’s rapid development has spurred an unrivaled crop of museums, including M+ (designed by Herzog & de Meuron, Basel, Switzerland)—an Asian-centric museum of 20th- and 21stcentury art and design scheduled to open in 2021 in Hong Kong’s West Kowloon Cultural District. w


Courtesy National Museum of Qatar/Iwan Baan

National Museum of Qatar in Doha, designed by Ateliers Jean Nouvel, Paris

Fall 2019 173


Many of New York’s major institutions are completing major enhancements. Once the Metropolitan Museum reopens, it will reinstall the Arts of Africa, Oceania, and the Ancient Americas (wHY Architecture, Los Angeles/New York) and launch a program of contemporary art commissions to adorn the Fifth Avenue facade. The American Museum of Natural History is reinstalling its Native American art of the Pacific Northwest (wHY), and has broken ground on a $383 million addition (Studio Gang, New York) that will house an insectarium, butterfly vivarium, and other exhibition and education spaces. And the New Museum in Soho is doubling its gallery space with an $85 million addition (OMA, New York). Germany is forming a museum of world culture envisioned as a counterpart to the British Museum. Housed in the reconstructed Prussian royal residence on Berlin’s Museum Island, the $700 million Humboldt Forum— named for the 19th-century scientist and explorer—opens in 2020, combining Berlin’s ethnological and Asian art museums with a permanent display on the city’s history, and space for temporary exhibitions. Private collectors are adding diversity by minting bespoke showcases that enshrine their wealth and taste. French billionaire François Pinault—whose Kering group owns Christie’s auction house, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, and many other luxury brands—is spending $179 million to establish a contemporary art museum in Paris. He has a 50-year lease on the city’s 19th-century Bourse de Commerce, and hired Japanese architect Tadao Ando—who already converted two buildings in Venice into Pinault museums—to turn it into a showcase for his personal collection and temporary shows of “the art of today.” Slated to open in 2020, the project is a riposte to Pinault’s French rival Bernard Arnault, owner of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, who made headlines by opening the Frank Gehry–designed Fondation Louis Vuitton in the Bois de Boulogne. These monumental projects may be a few years away from completion, but numerous others have recently opened or will be unveiled in coming months.

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The Museum of Modern Art NEW YORK

REOPENS: OCTOBER 21

Architect: Diller Scofidio + Renfro, New York MoMA’s midtown campus, closed since June, reopens after a $400 million expansion and reconfiguration that adds 30 percent more exhibit space for the world’s preeminent trove of modern art. The addition seamlessly extends existing galleries into three floors of an adjacent skyscraper (Ateliers Jean Nouvel, Paris), and allows curators to reconceive how they present the past 150 years of art history. The installation remains chronological (early modernism on the fifth floor, mid-20th-century on the third, and art since 1980 on the high-ceilinged second floor) but for the first time mixes together painting, sculpture, design, and other media, and includes more work by women, artists of color, Latinx artists, and others who have been underrepresented in the museum. The project also introduces gallery space for performance, admission-free street-level galleries, and a more welcoming lobby and shop. moma.org


Courtesy Images, From Top: The Shed/Warren Du Preez & Nick Thornton Jones; Renzo Piano Building Workshop/Academy Museum Foundation/Image from L’Autre Image. Opposite Page: Courtesy MOMA/2017 Diller Scofidio + Renfro

The Shed NEW YORK

OPENED: APRIL 21

Lead Architect: Diller Scofidio + Renfro, New York Collaborating Architect: Rockwell Group, New York Manhattan’s all-new venue for interdisciplinary visual and performing art commissions is located adjacent to Hudson Yards, an $18 billion cluster of supertall towers that house corporate offices, luxury residences, and a high-end shopping mall. The structures rise above active rail yards on the West Side, and along the popular, elevated High Line park. In leasing the tract to the Related Companies, the city set aside land for a cultural amenity and selected the proposal for The Shed. The new nonprofit raised $475 million to construct an eight-level space with two galleries, a theater, and The McCourt, a multiuse concert hall capped by a retractable shell. The inverted U-shaped hood, a steel grid covered with translucent plastic, rests on motor-driven wheels that allow it to telescope out over a plaza to create a sheltered setting for performances and events. Shed commissions have emphasized interdisciplinary collaboration: a play with music about Marilyn Monroe written by poet Anne Carson and starring Ben Whishaw and Renée Fleming; a five-night concert series of African American music curated by artist and film director Steve McQueen; choral and orchestral pieces by Arvo Part and Steve Reich performed live in rooms wallpapered with reproductions of Gerhard Richter abstractions (the Reich piece synched with a film by Corinna Belz that digitally alters a Richter painting into a psychedelic mandala); and a spectacularly staged Björk concert featuring a septet

of dancing flautists. Highlights for the fall season include works by choreographer William Forsythe, Venezuelan electronic musician Arca, and 88-year-old environmental art pioneer Agnes Denes. On the north side of The Shed is the 15-story sculpture called Vessel, designed by Thomas Heatherwick. A gleaming honeycomb of climbable staircases with undersides clad in reflective metal, Vessel’s overall shape resembles a giant wastepaper basket and the inside looks something like an Indian stepwell. Timed ticketholders can ascend for views of the interior, though the next phase of development may limit outward vistas to the facades of surrounding skyscrapers. Meanwhile, what some call the $200 million folly has proved a magnet for tourists whose photos and posts provide an abundant amount of free advertising for Hudson Yards. theshed.org

Academy Museum of Motion Pictures LOS ANGELES

OPENS: 2020

Architect: Renzo Piano Building Workshop, Genoa/ Paris/New York with Gensler, Los Angeles The Academy—the organization that gives out the Oscars—leased and renovated a former Streamline Moderne department store building and added a spherical structure, which features a 1,000-seat theater for film screenings, performances, and lectures, with a glassdomed terrace on top for events. Galleries will trace the science and history of film, and present exhibits about

Hollywood and global film culture. Movie fans will find, among other bits of nostalgia, Dorothy’s ruby slippers, the doors to Rick’s Café, Charles Kane’s sled “Rosebud” (loaned by Steven Spielberg), and an homage to the Stargate Corridor from 2001: A Space Odyssey. Though long delayed and way over budget, the $388 million movie museum is a natural for Los Angeles. academymuseum.org w

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Rubell Museum MIAMI

OPENS: DECEMBER 4

Architect: Selldorf Architects, New York Since the early 1990s, hoteliers Don and Mera Rubell have housed their world-renowned contemporary art collection in their private museum, a repurposed DEA confiscated goods warehouse in Wynwood. Their growing inventory has led them to relocate to another industrial facility twice the size of the original. The 100,000-square-foot campus in Allapattah will have 40 galleries (spread over 53,000 square feet) for long-term installations and special exhibitions drawn from their growing collection of 7,200 works by more than 1,000 artists. The opening is scheduled to coincide with Art Basel Miami Beach, the huge contemporary art fair that the couple helped bring to the city two decades ago. rfc.museum

National Museum of Qatar DOHA, QATAR

OPENED: MARCH

Architect: Ateliers Jean Nouvel, Paris

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In competition with its political rival Abu Dhabi, Qatar has constructed an iconic history museum by the designer of Louvre Abu Dhabi. Ultra-highperformance glass fiber-reinforced concrete sheaths the $434 million compound, evoking a desert rose crystal. The sprawling structure wraps around the restored early-20th-century royal palace that served as the seat of government and later as the national museum. The new museum contains exhibits chronicling the history of Qatar and its inhabitants from prehistory to the present. Irregularly shaped galleries—with tilting and curved walls and inclined floors—form a mile-long continuous circuit on several levels. Displays deploy videos, soundscapes, images, texts, and objects to examine the region’s geographical, cultural, and political evolution through the 20th century, when the discovery of oil and natural gas created vast wealth. A highlight is the 19thcentury Pearl Carpet of Baroda, embroidered with 1.5 million Gulf pearls and precious stones. The museum, part of a cultural district that includes the Museum of Islamic Art and Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art, is surrounded by a park by landscape architect Michel Desvignes and public artworks such as Jean-Michel Othoniel’s foundation installation, set in a large lagoon. nmoq.org.qa


Bauhaus Museum Dessau DESSAU, GERMANY

OPENED: SEPTEMBER 8

From Top: Courtesy BMD/Gunter Binsack; Shutterstock. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images From Top: Rubell Museum; National Museum of Qatar/Argyroglo

Architect: Addenda Architects, Barcelona, Spain

Coinciding with the centennial of the seminal modernist design school (1919–1933), the museum’s opening will feature displays of historical documents, objects designed and fabricated at the school, as well as contemporary works that exemplify the institution’s lasting impact on architecture and design. The school was founded in Weimar, but in 1925 moved to Dessau, which is now home to the largest number of Bauhaus buildings in the world. The Bauhaus Dessau Foundation has collected some 40,000 objects since 1976, but only now has space in which to present them properly. Within the framework of the Bauhaus cooperation, the Bauhaus Dessau Foundation works closely with the Klassik Stiftung Weimar, which opened a new Bauhaus museum earlier this year, and with the Bauhaus-Archiv in Berlin. bauhaus-dessau.de

Centre Pompidou Shanghai SHANGHAI

OPENS: SPRING 2020

Architect: David Chipperfield, London As part of a long-term cultural cooperation between France and China, Paris’ Centre Pompidou will set up a branch in the West Bund Art Museum, a new facility on the banks of the Huangpu River in a state-owned development converting industrial waterfront into office parks, meeting space, and cultural venues. The West Bund district already features the Yuz Museum, Long Museum, and Tank Shanghai, a nightclub and art center housed in former airfield oil tanks—all established by private collectors whose projects lend cachet to the area. Now, the Pompidou has a renewable five-year lease on one of the West Bund Art Museum’s three two-story wings. (Plans for the other two wings have not been announced.) The program will present modern and contemporary art on loan from Paris and contemporary Chinese art. Pompidou already has a branch in Metz, France, and has been expanding abroad with satellites in Málaga, Spain, Shanghai, and possibly Brussels and Bogota, Colombia.

Centre Pompidou, Málaga, Spain

Ongoing programming partnerships continue with the King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture in Dhahran, Saudi Arabia, as well as participation in a French–Saudi Arabia agreement to develop the Arab Civilization Museum as part of a tourism initiative in the Al-Ula province. w

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K11 MUSEA HONG KONG

OPENS: FALL 2019

Architect: Kohn Pederson Fox, New York; Landscape Architect: James Corner Field Operations, New York The latest and most ambitious “art mall” created by 39-yearold billionaire Adrian Cheng’s K11 MUSEA is situated in Victoria Dockside, his 3-million-square-foot harborside development in Tsim Sha Tsui—a 10-year project. Cheng heads a real estate and jewelry empire, the former founded by his grandfather and the latter by his great-grandfather, but his keen interest in merging art and culture with commerce led him over the past decade to open art malls in Hong Kong, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Wuhan, and Shenyang, with future openings planned in four more cities across China. Each is a mix of shopping, entertainment, cultural happenings, and design, including cross-disciplinary exhibition space curated by K11 Art Foundation, which he founded and which focuses on incubating Chinese artists and curators, sometimes through collaborations with luxury brands and international institutions such as Serpentine Galleries and Palais de Tokyo. They have also arranged loan shows of older art from European and American museums. k11musea.com

Musée Cantonal des Beaux-Arts LAUSANNE, SWITZERLAND

OPENS: OCTOBER 5

Architect: Barozzi Veiga, Barcelona, Spain

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Three of Lausanne’s major visual art museums are moving into a new cultural district next to the main train station, PLATEFORME 10. The Cantonal Museum of Fine Arts has long needed more space to exhibit its collection of old master, modern, and contemporary works. The collection has been housed—along with the cantons museums of natural history, zoology, and money—in a neo-Renaissance palace in the old city. Now the fine arts museum has a new building on the site of the old railway hall. The facility has galleries for the permanent collection, including 500 works by Swiss-born French modern artist Félix Vallotton, as well as enhanced climate control and security that enable the museum to receive major traveling shows from foreign museums. Across a tree-lined plaza, another new building (designed by Manuel and Francisco Aires Mateus, Lisbon, Portugal) will open in 2021, housing a photography museum, the Musée de l’Elysée, and the Mudac (Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Art). mcba.ch


Palais Galliera PARIS

OPENS: SPRING 2020

Architect: Atelier de l’Île, Ciel Architectes, Paris

From Top: Frédéric Vielcanet/Alamy; Courtesy Arter/Hadiye Cangökçe. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images From Top: K11 Musea; MCBA/Matthieu Gafsou

The City of Paris Fashion Museum is renovating and expanding its Beaux-Arts mansion in the 16th arrondissement near Musee Guimet and Palais de Tokyo. Funded by Chanel, the overhaul converts vaulted cellars into galleries that double the area for temporary shows and installations from the permanent collection of 200,000 couture and accessory items from the 18th century to today, including outfits worn by Louis XVII, Sarah Bernhardt, and dresses by Worth, Schiaparelli, Mariano Fortuny, Balenciaga, St. Laurent, Gaultier, Miyake, and many others. palaisgalliera.paris.fr

Arter ISTANBUL, TURKEY

OPENED: SEPTEMBER 13

Architect: Grimshaw Architects, London

The contemporary art center is less than a decade old, but with funding from its parent organization, The Vehbi Koç Foundation, it is moving into a grand new home in the Dolapdere district. Exhibitions will include parts of the 1,400-piece international collection, which mainly concentrates on Turkish art since 1960 as well as new commissions and interdisciplinary performances in two theaters that can accommodate music, dance, film, and video. Collector Ömer Koç, a descendant of the industrialist who established the foundation 50 years ago, plays a lead role at the museum, which is slated to open during the preview of this year’s Istanbul Biennial, another Koç Foundation beneficiary. It is hard to believe that Arter is only the second museum of modern art in Turkey. The other is Istanbul Modern, founded 15 years ago, and currently building a new facility to be designed by Renzo Piano on the Bosphorus. arter.org.tr w

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THE BEAUTY OF ART BASEL AT THE GO-TO GLOBAL FAIR FOR COLLECTORS, A SKINCARE BRAND PAYS HOMAGE TO WOMEN AND MAKES ITS PRESENCE KNOWN. Since it first launched in 1970, the art trade fair in Messe Basel quickly became the iconic meeting place for the international art world. Attended by nearly 300 galleries and more than 90,000 art connoisseurs each year, Art Basel continues to grow as a global platform for artists and representatives. Additional shows take place annually in Miami Beach and Hong Kong, and 95,000-plus visitors are expected to flock to Switzerland’s Messeplatz in 2020. On exhibit are high-quality modern and contemporary paintings, sculptures, installations, photographs, prints, video, and multimedia works by more than 4,000 artists, from masters like Picasso to the newest generation of creatives. For collectors looking to stock their private museums, being on the invitation-only list for the first two days of the fair is the VIP way to see the show, with exclusive access to the Collectors Lounge. The brands welcoming enthusiasts, from Audemars Piguet and NetJets to Ruinart and Davidoff, make accessing the fair that much more enjoyable and successful. A standout participant since 2017, Swiss luxury skincare brand La Prairie (laprairie.com) has established a reputation for converging art and science in unique and pioneering ways. “Art Basel is the natural venue for a dialogue with artists,” said Chief Marketing Officer Greg Prodromides, “and we truly believe it is a natural fit for La Prairie to be here as we have always had an intrinsic link with art since the inception of the brand in the 1930s.” For the 2019 edition of the fair, La Prairie partnered with three Swiss artists to interpret what they call “the beauty of the gaze,” a concept that dovetailed nicely with the launch of its newest Skin Caviar Eye Luxe Lift serum ($480).

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Courtesy Images, Clockwise From Top: La Prairie/Amanda Nikolic; La Prairie; Art Basel/Namsa Leuba. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: Art Basel/Daniela Droz; Art Basel/Senta Simond; Art Basel/Scott Rudd

Clockwise from above: The La Prairie Pavilion in the Collectors Lounge; the new Skin Caviar Eye Luxe Lift serum; Namsa Leuba at work. Opposite from top: Daniela Droz’s photographic mirrors; one of Senta Simond’s close-up portraits; outside Art Basel.

“Art can be inspiration that works with the power of outward observances,” says Prodromides, “and you need the underpinning science to complete the equation. Art and science coming together makes the difference in our brand.” Indeed, La Prairie was founded on the belief that the scientist’s creative process is akin to that of an artist. With this notion in mind, the female photographers chosen to deliver their perspective produced a photographic exhibition titled Eyes in Focus, which debuted at the La Prairie Pavilion in the Collectors Lounge. All graduates of the Lausanne University of Art and Design, Daniela Droz, Namsa Leuba, and Senta Simond represent the new guard of contemporary photography. The brand believes it’s essential to support and encourage young artists who are forward-thinking and breaking the codes of their chosen medium, as that is what La Prairie strives to do with skincare. Skin Caviar Eye Luxe Lift is a serum for the entire eye area, brows included. With regular use, it’s meant to tighten the upper lids, visibly reduce crow’s feet, and strengthen under-eye skin to diminish puffiness. Over time, the complete eye area appears lifted and firmed. Each artist’s vision produced a unique approach to the project.

Droz transformed photographs into mirrors that reflected the viewer’s gaze back at themselves. “I sought to accentuate the idea of a new approach to photography,” says Droz, “following the concept of Constructivism or Bauhaus: a new point of view, outside the generally accepted rules of perspective.” Leuba’s black-and-white pictorial work against a colorful frame explored the expression of time, as the eye area is the first to show signs of aging. “I wanted to illustrate the nature of emotions hidden in us,” she says, “and that attempt to break through the veil that covers them.” Simond shot a series of close-up portraits of young women she knows. “I played with the gaze of my subjects by photographing them in different emotional states,” she explains. “We tend to associate the male gaze with objectification, and the female gaze is usually linked to introspection.” The installations spoke to life, power, and intimacy with a message that echoed Andrea Bowers’ monumental artwork about the #MeToo movement in a more abstract way. Bowers’ Open Secret was on view in the fair’s Unlimited section, making Eyes in Focus a bonus for those with access to the Collectors Lounge. w —Deborah Frank Fall 2019 181


THE MASTERS ON VIEW DA VINCI AND REMBRANDT HEADLINE THE FALL EXHIBITION CALENDAR. This year marks the 500th anniversary of the death of Leonardo da Vinci and the 350th anniversary of the death of Rembrandt. The Louvre owns about a third of da Vinci’s surviving work, including the Mona Lisa, and is organizing the landmark show Leonardo da Vinci (October 24–February 24, 2020). The British Royal Collection, whose 500 da Vinci drawings form the largest cache in the world, has gathered 200 for Leonardo da Vinci: A Life in Drawing at The Queen’s Gallery in Buckingham Palace (through October 13), with another 80 to be presented at the Queen’s Gallery, Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh, Scotland (November 22–March 15, 2020). To celebrate “the year of Rembrandt,” the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam exhibited its entire Rembrandt collection—22 paintings, 60 drawings, and 300 engravings—and now will restore Rembrandt’s largest and most famous work, the group portrait of civic guardsmen known as The Night Watch. The painting, an icon of Dutch culture, is actually a daytime scene, but darkened varnish gave rise to the misnomer in the 18th century. Operation Night Watch will study the history and physical condition of the roughly 12-by-14.5-foot canvas in preparation for restoration. The entire project will take place within a glass chamber in the galleries, allowing the public to watch. The museum is also collaborating with the Museo del Prado in Madrid on Rembrandt-Velázquez, juxtaposing the Dutch and Spanish masters and their contemporaries at the Rijksmuseum (October 11–January 19, 2020). And Young Rembrandt, the first thorough survey of his early career, will take place in Leiden, the city of his birth, at Museum De Lakenhal (November 3– February 9, 2020). Also on the fall calendar in Paris are major shows of Francis Bacon at the Pompidou Centre (September 11–January 20, 2020); Degas at the Opera at Musée d’Orsay (September 24–January 19, 2020); Toulouse-Lautrec at the Grand Palais (October 9–January 27, 2020); and El Greco at the Grand Palais (October 14–February 10, 2020). In Vienna, the Albertina Museum will show 200 works by Albrecht Dürer (September 20–January 6, 2020), as well as about 60 Baroque paintings and sculptures in Caravaggio and Bernini at the Kunsthistorisches Museum (October 15–January 19, 2020). Rounding out the season are two prominent surveys of contemporary art, the venerable Venice Biennale (until November 24) and the Istanbul Biennial (September 14–November 10). —J.K.

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ISLES OF ART

Courtesy Setouchi Triennale (3). Opposite Page, Courtesy Images, From Top: RMN-Grand Palais/musée du Louvre/René-Gabriel Ojéda; RMN-Grand Palais/musée du Louvre/Michel Urtado

A STORIED ARCHIPELAGO HOSTS JAPAN’S ANTICIPATED SETOUCHI TRIENNALE FESTIVAL. This year, the global art community has converged on an unlikely locale: a series of 12 islands dotted off the coast of Hiroshima in Japan, which are hosting the fourth edition of the Setouchi Triennale (setouchi-artfest.jp). The event happens just once every three years and is spread over three seasons: spring, summer, and fall. The most exciting art event in Asia would have been unthinkable 30 years ago, when its founder, collector Soichiro Fukutake, first mooted using art to boost the region out of the doldrums. As Tomohiro Muraki, CMO for the region’s tourism authority, says, “this area was enshrined as Japan’s first national park in the 1930s but was pragmatically repurposed as an industrial base to help reboot the country in the wake of its defeat in World War II. Granite quarrying and copper smelting became staples.” The islands’ beauty was blighted by dumping, and the population leeched away as young people fled to find better lives in Tokyo or beyond. That’s when Fukutake, sailing through here in 1989, became determined to use his wealth—and burgeoning art collection—to kickstart a renaissance. He settled on the island of Naoshima as his proving ground, where he began working with minimalist starchitect Tadao Ando to develop an island-spanning complex known as Benesse (benesse-artsite.jp) that combined museums and hotels with public, site-specific artworks. Once he established a foothold, Fukutake set about promoting his fiefdom to a wider audience via Triennale, the first of which took place in 2010. It aimed to leverage the festival using the area’s newfound cachet among the arterati to drive significant, upscale tourism from Japan and beyond. He and his team hoped to attract 300,000 or so visitors; almost 1 million made the journey and immediately established this artfest as a major must-see. This year the festival’s three phases, each featuring unique displays and site-specific installations across the islands and two ports on the Seto Inland Sea, follow the theme Restoration of the Sea— a nod to the economic woes of the area that the Triennale aims to counter. Many of the artworks on show nod to the decay of communities across the region, especially from the brain drain that siphoned away younger residents. The final session, runs September 28 through November 4. Though Naoshima forms part of the event, it isn’t the best base from which to explore—better to base yourself in Takamatsu, the central part on the major island of Shikoku and take day trips from there to any island. Aside from Naoshima and Benesse, don’t miss the Teshima Art Museum, a sister site to Benesse that’s a permanent feature on the namesake island. On nearby Megijima, the food artist Eat & Art Taro will be in residence throughout, creating delicious edible pieces—expect nods to the region’s reputation for superlative udon and the citrus fruits that thrive in the Mediterranean-like climate here, such as hassaku oranges. During the final phase of the festival, the most in-demand area to visit with the greatest concentration of works is the western tranche of islands in the archipelago. Among the westernmost cluster, don’t miss Honjima, where untouched Edo period architecture rims the port; look for pieces like Bottom Sky and a netting and rope installation inspired by old ships or tiny Ibukijima. The farthest west of all, the island is barely a half square mile in size but already renowned throughout Japan for its anchovies. The fishing hub will be transformed via a dozen site-specific pieces installed among the ramshackle houses of the tiny village here. u —Mark Ellwood

From right: The Boat Piano on display at the port of Megijima Island; Black Porgy in Uno sculpture at the 2013 festival; a weave sculpture at the 2016 festival. Opposite from top: Lady, baby, goat, Leonardo da Vinci; Drape Illustration, Leonardo da Vinci.

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From Here, by classically trained artist Arantzazu Martinez. Born in 1977 in Vitoria, Alava, Spain, her permanent collection is on display at the European Museum of Modern Art in Barcelona.

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The New Old Masters

Superrealists create paintings so naturalistic they could be mistaken for photographs. The IBEX Collection wants these artists to get the recognition they deserve. by Jason Edward Kaufman

Courtesy Antonio Alba

M

aking a painting used to be a time-consuming activity. Extensive technical training was required, and the execution could take weeks, even years. The invention of photography in 1839 introduced a mechanical device that obviated the need for artists to replicate their subjects solely by hand and eye. Painters responded by making images that exploit the special possibilities of their medium, including its capacity to distort and abstract the visual world in personally expressive ways. Yet admiration for the mastery of the Old Masters never died and some contemporary painters cater to that taste. They pursue their craft as they might have had they been born centuries earlier and rival the exquisite realism first achieved by Netherlandish artists in the 15th century. A patron of such mastery is Albrecht von Stetten, a German of aristocratic heritage who sold his family farm near Augsburg and partnered with East German agricultural concerns that, after the fall of the Berlin Wall and German unification, made him very wealthy. While looking for art to decorate his huge office, he made some studio visits. Von Stetten, who had considered an art career, asked one painter in Barcelona about his life as an artist and the painter confessed that it was awful, explaining that he had to earn a living making pictures that his gallery deemed saleable. Von Stetten offered to double his income for three months in exchange for the completed work of his dreams. The artist accepted, becoming the first benefactor of von Stetten’s revolutionary IBEX Collection (ibex-masters.com). IBEX (an ibex features in the von Stetten family coat of arms) bills itself as “the largest active private collection of contemporary, figurative, Superrealist art.” Von Stetten, who favors naturalistic paintings, particularly those with brushstrokes so fine that they are indistinguishable within the illusory image, has scoured the globe for top practitioners. He offers the equivalent of a salary for however long is needed to realize the

artist’s ideal figurative painting. The subject matter is entirely up to the artist, but the human figure is requisite, and IBEX takes ownership of the resulting painting. Von Stetten does not disclose exactly how many works are in the collection, but says that the number is in the hundreds. Chief curator of the collection is Kiki Kim, the granddaughter of a Chinese calligrapher, whose art-world connections helped her organize a tour of hyperrealist artists in Asia. Her husband, David Willson, a brand marketing consultant, is executive director. They travel constantly in search of new talent and to visit masterworks in progress. They look for artists who can achieve maximum realism with the fewest perceptible brushstrokes. They even have a rating system. “I want to be able to walk into a room where a painting from the collection is hanging and feel that the sitter is actually there,” von Stetten says. Some of the paintings IBEX collects indeed achieve an eyefooling verisimilitude. The artists’ technical abilities rival realist painters of any era. But, technical finesse and attention to detail are not always enough to elevate their subject matter, much of which showcases idealized youthful bodies and an abundance of female nudes and semi-nudes. Based on photographs, even the clothed figures can resemble outtakes from advertising shoots. Other works feature more freely invented figures in compositions designed to stimulate the mind, as well as the eye. IBEX maintains a core collection of masterworks by 16 artists that they believe represent the crème de la crème of their holdings. Occasionally they mount short-term exhibitions that present the works to invited collectors, maintaining their goal to increase public awareness of the artists and of Superrealism within the art world. Shows have taken place in Singapore and Hong Kong, and a New York event is planned for 2020. Four such artists in Spain reveal their IBEX Masterpieces in progress, in advance of next year’s exhibition in Manhattan. w

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An academic realist who has lived in Madrid for 19 years, Martinez Cifuentes paints ballerinas. These are not the scruffy “opera rats” that Edgar Degas recorded in casual moments, glimpsed from oblique angles and rendered with impressionist virtuosity. Martinez Cifuentes’ ballerinas are perfectly coiffed, perfectly fit beauties in rigid poses seen straight-on, often against empty backdrops. His study of the female body for the past two decades includes paintings of nudes sprawled on couches, seductively wrapped in delicate fabrics, or lying in the surf like the racy scene from the 1950s romance From Here to Eternity. The IBEX Masterpiece that Martinez Cifuentes is completing measures around 8 feet by 14 feet, his largest multi-figure work. The superbly realistic scene looks like an enlarged photograph of 10 actors in a modern palace or harem. He says the figures are based on cabaret artists whom he posed and photographed. He calls the painting Portrait of Desire, but the overriding feeling is of decadence and prurience.

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Courtesy Sergio Martinez Cifuentes. Opposite Page: Courtesy Aurelio Rodriguez Lopez (2)

Sergio Martinez Cifuentes Born in 1966, Concepcion, Chile; lives and works in Madrid.


Aurelio Rodríguez López Born in 1958, Génave, Spain; lives and works in Estepona, Spain, southwest of Marbella.

Rodríguez López specializes in pastel and achieves remarkable naturalistic precision on a grand scale. His IBEX Masterpiece is a wood-panel triptych roughly 6 feet by 14 feet that depicts nearly life-size figures at the edge of the sea. Uniting the vignettes is a seascape and in the background the profile of Gibraltar and an African peninsula. The artist explains the iconography as an allegory of immigration to Europe, but his sunlit models’ flawless physical beauty conjures an ad for a gym or oceanside vacation rather than the reality of refugees risking death to better their lives. Nevertheless, the work is a technical feat. It took 3.5 years for photo shoots, composing the composition on a computer, transferring key points onto the panels, and layering on pastel, smudging with his fingers and using edges of tiny shards to make fine marks while bracing his hand on a pinkie nail. Individual touches of the rendering are evident up close, but from afar he achieves impressive optical verisimilitude, drawing from an arsenal of more than 1,000 pastel bars and pencils. Rodríguez López also paints and makes etchings, but he is most highly regarded for the hyperreal pastels he creates on an unmatched scale. He was awarded the International Association of Pastel Societies 2019 prize, and is in demand as a teacher in China where the medium is revered. He envisions exhibiting the triptych with sand on the floor in front of it, decorated with the same shells depicted in the piece. w

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Martin Llamedo Born in 1980, Buenos Aires, Argentina; lives and works in Barcelona. Llamedo studied painting, sculpture, and ceramics before immigrating to Spain in 2017, first to Madrid and then to Barcelona. He paints mainly women in settings imbued with a dreamlike atmosphere: a woman looking away out a tall casement window, a contemporary Pandora resting on a tile floor before a wooden casket, a ballerina in the nave of a cathedral radiating arms like a Shiva, a young woman and her doppelganger sitting back to back. His IBEX Masterpiece, a canvas about 7 square feet, presents another doubling. A woman and her clone stand behind a table set with a white, gauze-wrapped turkey; a vanilla cake made from foam and surgical gauze; a bowl of fabric-wrapped pears and pomegranates; and Champagne glasses filled with milk-like antiseptic Champagne. Llamedo digitally composed the image from multiple photographs, then painstakingly rendered the scene in oil with exquisite finesse. As in many of his works, there is an eerie feeling of time suspended. The palette is leaden and the surface has a dusting of white pigment that lends a chill to the scene, an otherworldliness and tension echoed by the frozen stares of the women, who seem hypnotized or possessed, like automatons. Llamedo says that he intended to suggest a kind of dystopic American dream of domestic order, a condition that he believes may lie in the future.

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Courtesy Dino Valls. Opposite Page: Courtesy Martin Llamedo (2)

Dino Valls Born in 1959, Zaragoza, Spain; lives and works in Villanueva de la Cañada, northwest of Madrid. Valls paints figures informed by his training as a doctor and presents them in allegorical compositions that reference art history and incorporate symbols that reflect his philosophical ideas. He has painted a young woman whose head is encased in an astrological device, a saint-like boy in a robe stained red with a map of his circulatory system, and a printer’s type box containing specimens including a butterfly, minerals, pigments, and the head of an alert girl on a velvet cloth. His IBEX Masterpiece is a large triptych that evokes Northern Renaissance art. The panels are hinged like a medieval altarpiece, and a central predella shows a young woman partly immersed in a well with her hand resting on the head of a sickly child, submerged as if waiting to be born. Flanking the central panel are vignettes that depict cubbyhole-size rooms containing miscellaneous dramas and symbolic still lifes. The entire painting teems with symbolic texts, animal parts, skulls, scientific instruments, and flayed anatomical studies that suggest a Faustian cabinet of curiosities. This piece is the artist’s summa, an effort to cram everything Valls knows into one grand work. The foreboding aspect reflects his concern that the health of the human species is

threatened by hubris concerning technology and its capacity to transform the body. Even as we unpack the potential of genetic manipulation and biotechnology, we are merely animals and must proceed with caution: “The evolution of Homo sapiens could be ended by our own inventions,” he warns. Valls is a talented draftsman but not a slave to realism and technique. He invents his imagery rather than working from photographs of models, and his painting is looser than that of other IBEX artists. His triptych is visually captivating, yet, even with an explanation of his ideas, his symbolic images remain arcane and only partly comprehensible. Nonetheless, the profusion of beautifully rendered and curious elements exudes the weirdness and unease of his warped vision, and rewards prolonged contemplation. As with all realist artists, the quality of the work is related directly to the quantity of hours invested in its making. The IBEX artists’ exhaustive methods are a direct affront to the often-slapdash images and objects rampant in today’s consumerist celebrity-driven market. The IBEX partners believe they are identifying and supporting the Old Masters of tomorrow, and at the very least, they have rewarded artists striving to perfect their craft. u

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The ART of Collecting

ONCE, PRIVATE MUSEUMS WERE THE FIEFDOM OF ROYALTY. THE LOUVRE, THE HERMITAGE, AND PRADO ALL BEGAN AS PRINCELY PROJECTS.

But today, the right to establish a personal cultural temple is available to any motivated collector. Deeding one’s holdings to a standalone operation rather than an established gallery may mean the works will actually be seen instead of languishing in some hidden archives for decades. Here, the seven best private museums in the world right now, from LA’s newest landmark to a Chinese art–boosting spot in Sydney. by Mark Ellwood

The Broad

The Garage

Bourse de Commerce

After a spat, billionaire Eli Broad cut his longtime ties with MOCA, LA (where he is founding chairman) and commissioned this custom-built home for the collection he and wife Edythe have amassed. Designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro in collaboration with Gensler, the 120,000-square-foot building acts as an anchor for the Grand Avenue cultural district downtown alongside the Disney Concert Hall and MOCA itself.

Oligarch Roman Abramovich and his then-girlfriend Dasha Zhukova opened this kunsthalle together in 2008 in an old bus depot (hence the name); the splashy party was headlined by Amy Winehouse. Since then, it’s moved twice around the capital, finally settling in the middle of Gorky Park. The museum—a brand-new building designed by Rem Koolhaas—was built around the bones of an old Soviet-era café that Abramovich had draped in translucent polycarbonate.

Luxury magnate François Pinault already owns two museums in Venice: the Palazzo Grassi and Punta della Dogana, a former customs house where he displays a rotating haul of the contemporary art he owns. In 2020, he will open a third site, yet another repurposed historic building—the iron-domed Bourse de Commerce in the heart of Paris. Offered a cut-price lease by the mayor, he again hired Japanese minimalist Tadao Ando, a veteran of both Venetian projects, to reboot the space.

WHAT YOU’LL SEE In

WHAT YOU’LL SEE Pinault, whose family holding company controls the auction house Christie’s, has a 5,000-strong collection that’s big on heavy-hitting American talents: Cindy Sherman, Cy Twombly, and Jeff Koons, among others. One recent show in Venice was dedicated entirely to Damien Hirst, for which the artist produced a slew of special sculptures—and which received a critical mauling from reviewers.

EAT & SHOP The store maintains a comprehensive assortment of art magazines and books. A huge café onsite offers a seasonally updated menu.

EAT & SHOP Both Venetian sites feature modest cafés and bookstores, so expect the Bourse to follow suit, especially with all those Parisian bistros nearby.

Los Angeles, CA thebroad.org

WHAT YOU’LL SEE The 2,000-strong collection focuses entirely on postwar and contemporary art, with an emphasis on American names like John Baldessari and Cindy Sherman. Ingeniously, part of the collection is stored in an on-site vault that is easily accessible to curators keen to borrow pieces (look down as you ride the elevator to enter to see it). EAT & SHOP The small store in the airy lobby sells limited-edition prints and books, plus items like artist-designed skateboards. There’s no café inside; rather, the de facto canteen is Otium next door, which focuses on Napa-style cooking with a wood-fired oven.

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Moscow garagemca.org

2013, superstar curator Kate Fowle was hired to build its profile and attendance (close to a million people visited last year). A canny focus on well-known contemporary artists draws the crowds: think Rashid Johnson and Takashi Murakami, who created a site-specific work for the entrance to celebrate his show there, which was the first major exhibition of his work in the country.

Paris palazzograssi.it


From Left: Hufton+Crow-VIEW/Alamy; Courtesy Rubell Museum; Courtesy White Rabbit/David Roche; Courtesy Saatchi Gallery, London/Steve White. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images From Left: The Broad and Diller Scofidio/Iwan Baan; Garage Museum of Contemporary Art; Bourse de Commerce/Artefactory Lab

The Saatchi Gallery London saatchigallery.com

The Long Museum

Rubell Museum

It was his wife, Wang Wei, a former auction house staffer, who piqued the curiosity for collecting in Liu Yiqian. The onetime taxi driver became one of modern China’s wealthiest men after investing in real estate and pharmaceuticals; she steered him to spend much of that fortune on art. The first of their Long museums (named, per Wang, as she hopes for them to be an enduring feature of the Chinese cultural landscape) opened in Shanghai’s Pudong in 2012. A second site in the city, on the West Bund, followed two years later; there are now satellite spots in Chongqing and Wuhan, too. WHAT YOU’LL SEE Liu has a magpie-like affinity for pricey baubles, whether Amedeo Modigliani’s painting “Nu Couché,” which he snapped up for $170.4 million as an impromptu gift for his wife, or the dainty Ming porcelain cup that cost him $36.3 million at auction—and which he later prankishly used in a photo shoot to actually sip tea. These, and much else from the couple’s eclectic collection, form the basis of shows at Long’s four sites.

In the early 1990s, this private museum opened in a repurposed DEA warehouse in Wynwood, an edgy part of mainland Miami. It’s fitting that, three decades later, as the neighborhood is now gentrified, the collection would decamp elsewhere— this time, to a new home on a 2.5-acre site in Allapattah, another on-the-rise ’hood. Designed by Selldorf Architects, the space opens to the public on December 4, in time for Art Basel.

Shanghai, and elsewhere thelongmuseum.org

EAT & SHOP Perfunctory at best. At the West Bund site, for instance, there’s a simple store and a basic café just across the courtyard, with brightly colored furniture and a menu of coffee and snacks.

Miami rfc.museum

WHAT YOU’LL SEE Building the 7,000-strong contemporary collection here was a true family project: Parents Mera and Don (brother of the late Studio 54 owner Steve) made their first acquisition in 1964, and they continue to grow their collection with their son Jason. The haul here is diverse and almost surveylike, from the self-taught Miami-based artist Purvis Young to Keith Haring (they were his early champions).

EAT & SHOP The family is tightlipped about plans for the new courtyard site, though expect the dining spaces to have some novelty. Daughter Jennifer does double duty as a conceptual artist whose work includes edible, interactive installations, as when visitors to a show were handed jars of yogurt and encouraged to walk around the room catching honey as it dripped from the ceiling.

White Rabbit

Sydney whiterabbitsydney.com When Judith Neilson, then-wife of billionaire asset manager Kerr, hired a Chinese artist living in Sydney to be her tutor, it was a life-changing decision. That artist, Wang Zhiyuan, took her to his homeland and toured galleries and studios across China with her. Dazzled, she wanted to share those artworks with a wider audience and established this private museum in 2009, housed in a former RollsRoyce service depot.

WHAT YOU’LL SEE Neilson is determined to assemble the best archive of contemporary Chinese and Taiwanese art in the world, visiting China three or four times a year to acquire works. Every six months, the show here is reinstalled with new acquisitions. EAT & SHOP The store on-site sells books, including her own, the illustrated kids’ story Ming and the White Rabbit, plus an assortment of design-driven gifts relating to the gallery and exhibitions. There’s also a charming teahouse, bustling at lunchtime as visitors scarf down homemade dumplings and a range of Chinese teas.

In the United Kingdom, advertising guru Charles Saatchi is synonymous with contemporary art, having opened his first, namesake gallery in 1985. It hopscotched around London, including one stint inside the grand onetime government offices of County Hall, close to Big Ben, before landing in its current, permanent location in Chelsea in 2008. It’s now housed in a 70,000-square-foot listed building (a former military school) on King’s Road. WHAT YOU’LL SEE Saatchi is most closely associated with the YBAs (Young British Artists) of the 1990s, like Tracey Emin, Jake & Dinos Chapman, and Damien Hirst; their controversy-chasing work was catnip to the publicity-savvy Saatchi. His holdings have broadened since then, and one recent show here featured ancient Egyptian artifacts to celebrate the centenary of unearthing Tutankhamun’s tomb. EAT & SHOP The Gallery Mess restaurant here focuses on modern British cuisine— upscale fish and chips, Eton mess—but there’s no reason not to explore the stores and restaurants that line King’s Road, one of London’s toniest strips. u

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ARTIST PROFILE

WHAT MIRÓ SAW

The upbeat abstract artworks of Catalan master JOAN MIRÓ (1893– 1983) are enjoyed worldwide, but their populist appeal can obscure their revolutionary spirit. by Jason Edward Kaufman

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Digital Image © The Museum of Modern Art / Licensed by Art Resource, NY, © Successió Miró, 2019.

The Hunter (Catalan Landscape). Montroig, July 1923–winter 1924. Oil on canvas, 25.5" x 39.5"

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J

oan Miró is best known for colorful abstract compositions populated by whimsical figures outlined in black. Primary shades—red, yellow, blue—fill in the surreal forms, emoting innocence alongside vulgarity, simplicity with depth, even whimsy with horror. A stick figure with a triangle head contains a target-like eye and a wispy mustache. A red shape indicates its heart, and a hairy orb its genitalia. Organic forms suggest insects, birds, the sun, and a star in the sunny yellow sky. These decorative and often lightly amusing pictures, and related sculptures, have become so familiar that they no longer appear revolutionary. Yet when he forged his unique pictorial language a century ago, Miró was a leader of the avant-garde. Ceaselessly inventive, he devised new aesthetic forms that contributed to the epochal triumph of abstraction over representation as the dominant mode of visual art. His enormously productive career is regarded as one of the most influential and exemplary of the 20th century. Despite his extraordinary popularity, Miró’s genius has come under scrutiny. His work can be formulaic and repetitive, and the content lightweight and lacking emotive force. The New Yorker’s critic Peter Schjeldahl dismissed him in a 2008 article as an innocent whose art “generates no human drama beyond the range of a circus act.” Even though his abstract figures typically are equipped with orifices and protrusions that humorously declare their sexuality, they come off as naive rather than risqué. Schjeldahl says that “his symbols of sex suggest prepubescent, wild guesses at what adults get so steamed up about.” In other words, though formally radical, Miró’s art reflects a shy and cerebral nature. Focusing on a limited range of motifs—mainly faces and heads, female figures, birds, and stars—he created an abstract pictographic language with which he explored his reveries in paintings, drawings, sculptures, ceramics, prints, book illustrations, and tapestries. His vast oeuvre has been collected by museums in Europe and the United States, notably

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the Museum of Modern Art and The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the Pompidou Centre in Paris, and the two foundations that he established in his native Barcelona and in his adopted home of Palma, Mallorca. He is regularly celebrated in major exhibitions—the last two years have seen surveys at MoMA and at the Grand Palais in Paris—and there is broad demand for his work at multiple price levels. Prints can be acquired for as little as a few thousand dollars, but seminal paintings, particularly those produced in the early decades of his career, have sold at auction for more than $30 million.

MIRÓ THE MAN

A small, genial, humble person, Miró was reserved and socially tame, mingling with intellectuals and fellow artists, but keeping a few close friends and staying married for 64 years to the same Mallorcan woman, Pilar Juncosa, with whom he had a daughter. Despite the celebrity he achieved in his lifetime, he lived modestly rather than in vast villas and avoided the limelight, preferring to stay at home. A housekeeper recalls his disciplined routine: rise early to work in the studio, breakfast at 9 a.m., back to the studio, lunch at 2 p.m., a siesta, then reading and letter writing before dinner and perhaps theater. He did indulge a taste for fine suits, and once described visits to a Mallorcan pastry shop as “almost a religious rite.” But he confessed that he found French cuisine “too skilled, too intellectual, which in the long run explains much about my painting.” That iconoclasm impelled him to overturn the complacencies of tradition, and made him one of his era’s towering figures. In his youth, like most artists, he represented his immediate surroundings. But, for Miró—whose surname in Spanish means “he saw”—the act of seeing was both outward and inward. With his eyes he observed the creatures and substances of the natural world, and with his mind’s eye he grasped their shared affinities and dreamed of intangible forces that animate the cosmos. His rudimentary figures, drawn in a crude manner w

Album / Art Resource, NY, © Successió Miró, 2019. Opposite: The Art Institute of Chicago / Art Resource, NY, © Successió Miró, 2019.

Left: Joan Miró standing before his painting The Skiing Lesson, 1966. Opposite: Ciphers and Constellations in Love with a Woman, 1941. Opaque watercolor with watercolor washes on ivory, rough textured woven paper, 18" x 15".


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CLOSE TO HOME

In his 20s, Miró stayed around the family farm where he painted still lifes, landscapes, and figures influenced by the planar structure of Cézanne, the gestural brushwork and palette of van Gogh, the chromatic exuberance of Matisse and the Fauves, and the angular geometry of Picasso and the Cubists. But even

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in his formative period he had a unique aesthetic. He recorded his rural milieu as if under the influence of a hallucinogen, turning mundane scenes into scintillating patterns of hardedged details, each vibrating to its own rhythm. In The Table (Still Life with Rabbit) (1920–1921), the floor, walls and tabletop are tilted up and geometrized as in Cubist pictures, but Miró depicts the rabbit, rooster, fish, and vegetables with hyperreal naturalism. This mesmerizing magic-realist effect is evident also in landscapes painted in and around Montroig, including Vines and Olive Trees, Tarragona (1919), House with Palm Tree (1919), and his early masterpiece The Farm (1921–22). Had his career ended with this phase, Miró would have claimed a place in art history, but his attention shifted from his surroundings to the world of his imagination, and led to even more groundbreaking pictorial breakthroughs.

PARIS AND SURREALISM

The transition took place after a 1920 trip to Paris. Miró was intent on becoming an “international Catalan,” one who remained connected to his homeland but incorporated ideas

Image copyright © The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Image source: Art Resource, NY, © Successió Miró, 2019. Opposite: Albright-Knox Art Gallery / Art Resource, NY, © Successió Miró, 2019.

and set against seemingly random stains of color, can seem childlike and amateurish. In fact, he was a gifted draftsman and trained painter, but had little interest in superficial likeness. Fascinated by the latest artistic theories, and given to poetic rumination, he inclined toward abstraction and primitivist symbols in non-narrative compositions. He was born in Barcelona in 1893, the eldest of four children in a bourgeois family. He began drawing as a child and attended art school as a teenager, but his father, a watchmaker and goldsmith, steered him into finance and a job as an accounting clerk. A nervous breakdown ensued, then a bout of typhoid fever, but after convalescing at the family farm in Montroig, south of Barcelona, he returned to art school.


Above: Carnaval d’Arlequin (Carnival of Harlequin), 1924–1925. Oil on canvas, support: 26" x 36.625". Opposite: Vines and Olive Trees, Tarragona. 1919. Oil on canvas, 28.5" x 35.625".

resonating in cosmopolitan Paris, where he opened a studio in 1922, returning for summer to Montroig. His circle soon included Picasso, André Masson, Max Ernst, Alexander Calder, Ernest Hemingway, Serge Diaghilev, the poet Paul Éluard, and André Breton, leader of the avant-garde Surrealist literary movement. Miró was attracted to avant-garde poetry and the Surrealist idea of “psychic automatism,” writing by free association to explore the unconscious. He joined the group in 1924, just as the Surrealist Manifesto was published. The year he wrote to an artist friend, “I have already managed to break absolutely free of nature, and the landscapes have nothing whatever to do with outer reality. Nevertheless, they are more Montroig than if they had been painted from nature.” A stunning example is the painting The Hunter (Catalan Landscape) (1923–1924), in which he reduces the protagonist and the setting to a collection of abstracted details laid out on a flat plane like a schematic diagram. The hunter on the left is a stick figure with a triangle head containing a target-like eye and a wispy mustache, sporting a Catalan cap and wavy lines suggesting his beard, and smoking a pipe that hovers nearby. A rounded red shape indicates

the hunter’s heart, and a hairy orb his genitalia. His arms are a single horizontal line that at one end holds a killed rabbit, and at the other a conical gun emitting a flame. Organic forms suggest plants, animals, and celestial objects in the yellow sky, along with an airplane-like contraption and tiny French, Catalan, and Spanish flags. Schematic waves and seagulls in the top right indicate the Mediterranean, and a single leaf attached to a beige circle represents a carob tree sprouting an eye, possibly denoting the presence of the observant artist. In the lower right Miró has calligraphically written “Sard,” an abbreviation of “sardine,” which the artist later explained refers to the creature occupying the rose-colored foreground—consisting of a linear spine with a triangular tail and semicircular yellow head with whiskers, a red tongue, and a long brownish ear. (Perhaps intentionally, Miró abstracted the displaced fish to rhyme with the features of a hare.) In this and related works—The Family (1924), The Tilled Field (1923–1924), and Carnival of Harlequin (1924–25), with its even greater profusion of characters and accessory elements—Miró abandons illusionism to paint instead landscapes of the mind. w

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ASSASSINATION OF PAINTING

Above: Dutch Interior (I). Montroig, July–December 1928. Oil on canvas, 36.125" x 28.75". Opposite: Still Life with Old Shoe. Paris, January 24–May 29, 1937. Oil on canvas, 32" x 46". An assortment of abstract disembodied attributes leaves the impression of the artist’s flow of thought as he analyzed how to present his subject. The viewer must engage in a similar process to comprehend the scene. The Surrealists referred to this as peinture-poésie (painted poetry), and Breton himself endorsed Miró’s effort by acquiring The Hunter. But two years later, when Miró collaborated with Hemingway on scenic devices for Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes production of Romeo and Juliet, Breton denounced them as bourgeois sellouts and Miró’s association with Surrealism ebbed. However, two aspects of painted poetry that would persist throughout Miró’s career are pictorial versions of literary tropes: synecdoche, the presentation of a part or feature to signify the whole (a mustache for the man, a vulva for the woman), and analogy, in which a single form performs multiple roles (an eye doubles as the sun which in turn resembles a sex organ) and proposes their physical or cosmic kinship. Miró tested his new approach in relation to the Old Masters. In 1928 he went to the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam and brought back postcards of pictures that served as the bases for abstract variations. Dutch Interior (I) (1928) is his free rendering of Hendrick Maertensz Sorgh’s The Lutenist (1661), a painting that shows an elegantly attired suitor with crossed legs playing a lute for a woman who rests an elbow on an adjacent table set with a fruit dish, wine glass, and pitcher. In the foreground a dog and cat lie on the floor, and to the left a window opens onto a canal.

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The Dutch series set the stage for more radical departures from tradition. In the later 1920s Miró pared down his pictures to a few biomorphic motifs floating against backgrounds of washed color, sometimes adding words as graphic elements. In these “dream” paintings, including The Birth of the World and This Is the Color of My Dreams (both 1925), he allowed his brush to move intuitively across the surface, accepting whatever gesture or accidental effect resulted. But Miró maintained that his imagery arose from concrete forms that exist in the real world and in his imagination. Dog Barking at the Moon (1926), for example, features a dog perched on a sloping horizon line beneath a crescent moon, with a ladder on the left ascending into the sky. It calls to mind another evocation of the enigma of existence: Spanish painter Francisco Goya’s Black Painting called The Drowning Dog (1820–1823) in the Prado. In 1927, Miró declared his desire to “assassinate painting,” an attention-getting provocation that overstated his intention to overturn the conventions of oil-on-canvas illusionism. Experimenting with new materials, he produced pictures on raw canvas, cardboard, Masonite, and copper, and incorporated found objects in constructions that anticipate the Combines of artist Robert Rauschenberg. To distance himself from rational composition, he arranged images of machines and consumer items torn from Catalan newspapers and catalogs into collages. He used these Dadaist armatures as points of departure for abstract paintings in which he transformed the commercial forms into biomorphic creatures, linking the modern and the primordial. Miró was interested in primitivism and prehistoric cave painting—then a relatively new field of study.

SPOILS OF WAR

Miró’s work was rarely explicitly political, but he responded to the repressive dictatorship of Francisco Franco, whose campaign to homogenize Spanish culture threatened to annihilate Catalonian identity. In 1934, on the brink of civil war, he created the Savage Paintings series, depicting monstrous, toothy figures floating in murky fields, verging on caricature. Their gloom and distortion adumbrate violence, but Miró’s Catalan nationalism generally remained covert. An exception is The Reaper (Catalan Peasant in Revolt) (1937), commissioned by the Spanish Republican government for the Paris Exposition in 1937. Inspired by the Catalan liberation song “Els Segadors” (The Reapers), the subject is a bulbous profile with a protruding nose and projecting teeth. The left arm holds a scythe, and the right is raised with clenched fist, the Catalan gesture of solidarity and protest. The

Digital Image © The Museum of Modern Art / Licensed by Art Resource, NY, © Successió Miró, 2019. Opposite: Digital Image © The Museum of Modern Art / Licensed by Art Resource, NY, © Successió Miró, 2019.

Miró renders these elements as simplified organic shapes of brilliant flat color that create a collage of curvilinear forms. The lutenist’s head is a white egg containing a red circle, displaced mustache, and wisps of hair. His instrument is a bright orange gourd bristling with pegs and strings. The woman appears as a white hourglass topped by a tiny black circular head, with a flowing white shape indicating the cloth-covered table, beneath which rest a cartoonish cat and a dog chewing a bone. The window view is summarily indicated in the upper left, and a rectangular shape recalls the painting that hangs in the background of the original. Miró amends the scene by inserting a frog, a bird, and a fantastic bat flying through the interior, and adds a footprint glyph, perhaps a stand-in for the artist himself.


work, now lost, was displayed in the Spanish pavilion alongside Picasso’s Guernica and Calder’s Mercury Fountain. Another exception is Still Life with Old Shoe (1937), an unexpected return to realism that depicts a poor man’s meal: a fork stuck into an apple, a cut loaf of bread, a bottle of gin wrapped in paper, and a haggard shoe symbolizing the Spanish people. The mood is dark and menacing, the distorted objects deeply shadowed and enshrouded in ambiguous space lit with an infernal shimmer of acid yellow and orange. The apocalyptic phantasmagoria registers Miró’s anxiety during the Civil War and on the eve of World War II. In 1940, he transcended worldly concerns by pouring himself into a series of 23 gouache and watercolor drawings that he titled Constellations. He and his wife had escaped the fascist occupation of Catalonia by relocating to Normandy and then they fled the Nazi invasion by retreating to Paris then to Barcelona, Palma, and finally Montroig. Amid this chaos he managed to concentrate intensely on one of his most transcendent and beautiful bodies of work. He covered modest-size sheets with his signature women, birds, and stars drawn with black ink on wash backgrounds. The skein of fine black lines interconnecting the motifs creates a constellation-like filigree of circles, stars, hourglasses and other shapes, some filled with vivid colors. Here and there, eyes and faces emerge, enabling the viewer to distinguish Miró’s mythic

personages and creatures entwined in the astral web. The Constellations showcase Miró’s polyvalent symbology. The recurring motif—a circle with lines extending outward that terminate in dots—may function as an analog for a hand, a flower, or a star, inviting us to imagine how they are interconnected. He achieves an exquisite harmonic balance among the disparate elements that embroider the compositions. He later recalled that during this period he had found solace listening to Bach and Mozart, and that music replaced poetry as a source of inspiration. The Constellations themselves have been aptly described as chamber music.

THE NEXT DIMENSION

After the war, Miró created mainly sculpture, ceramics, prints, and book illustrations. In the 1940s, as part of his campaign to expand painting, he collaborated with Josep Llorens Artigas, an accomplished potter he had known since art school. Working in a small town north of Barcelona, they produced hundreds of pieces, including traditional vessels and plaques made by Artigas that Miró embellished with his signature abstract forms and colors, and three-dimensional forms wholly invented by Miró. Some of his statues translate the organic forms of his paintings to three dimensions, such as Moonbird (1946), whose bulging limbs and horns merge human, avian, and bovine w

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HIS WORLD STAGE

Miró showed with various galleries in Paris, but his career took off in 1932 when he began his association with Pierre Matisse, who ran a prestigious New York gallery and would remain a close friend for the rest of the artist’s life. Exhibitions proliferated on both sides of the Atlantic, accompanied by critical acclaim and increasing sales. His large-scale gestural and color-field abstractions, and his experiments with nonpainterly materials, influenced the Art Informel artists of Europe and their American counterparts, the Abstract Expressionists. His reputation expanded with his first major exhibition in

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the United States, a retrospective at MoMA in 1941, and was reinforced by a show of the Constellations at Pierre Matisse Gallery in 1945. He came to the United States for the first time in 1947, in relation to a mural commission for a restaurant in the Terrace Plaza Hotel in Cincinnati, one of around a dozen large painted or ceramic murals he would create for various institutions. In 1958, the year his UNESCO murals were installed in Paris, he received the Guggenheim International Award, presented by President Eisenhower in Washington, D.C. In 1959 he traveled to New York for his second retrospective at MoMA and encountered the dynamic large-scale works of Pollock, Franz Kline, and others whom he had influenced. He later said that Abstract Expressionism had, in effect, given him permission to work on a grander scale, far beyond the intimacy of the School of Paris where he began. He took up the challenge in the spacious new studio in Palma that his friend, the architect Josep Lluís Sert, had built for him in 1956, but the late paintings rehashed earlier themes and are not widely admired. Curators and critics favor the first part of Miró’s career, during which he underwent the amazing pictorial evolution that remains his greatest legacy. That protean enterprise continues to captivate new generations of art historians and a wide international audience. There may be no right or wrong interpretation of Miró’s eccentric pictorial universe, but entering it, one cannot help but be captivated by its dichotomies and exclamation of unhindered creative freedom. u

Album / Art Resource, NY, © Successió Miró, 2019. Opposite: Digital Image © The Museum of Modern Art / Licensed by Art Resource, NY/ © Successió Miró / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York / ADAGP, Paris.

forms to suggest a prehistoric fertility idol. And he concocted bizarre assemblages that celebrate his affections for rural Catalan culture and for abstract figuration. The 7-foot-tall Personnage (1967–1969), for example, began as a butcher block propped on a tripod, with the lid of a wheat container for a head, and an upright rake that suggests both hair and an arm thrust skyward. Cast in bronze and brightly painted, the comical sculpture exemplifies the creative abandon that many artists entertain in their twilight years. He also produced thousands of lithographs, engravings, and book illustrations (he won the Grand Prize for Graphic Work at the Venice Biennale in 1954), and in the 1970s he collaborated with the Catalan weaver Josep Royo on massive tapestries for the East Building of the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C., the World Trade Center (destroyed in the terrorist attacks), and his foundation in Barcelona.


Moonbird. 1966. Bronze, 7’6" x 6’6" x 57". Opposite: Femme, monument. 1970. Bronze MirÓ sculpture in front of the Palau de l'Almudaina à Palma de Majorque, Spain.

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One&Only Mandarina Nayarit, Mexico The most significant ($1 billion) new resort and residential community on Mexico’s Riviera Nayarit in decades boasts 55 residences that incorporate jungle vegetation and dramatic cliffside views of the Pacific. Expect surf, sand (1.5 acres of beach), and a polo and equestrian center. One of the biggest draws: the organic farm. “There’s a worldwide trend of getting back to what really matters. Organic, locally grown food is a big part of that,” says Ricardo Santa Cruz, RLH Properties’ chief of business development. $4.5 million–$12 million; discovermandarina.com

Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top: Pendry Natirar; Mandarina/RLH; Courtesy Farm at Hokuala, Timbers Kauai; Kukui’ula. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images Clockwise From Top Left: C Lazy U; Belmond; Gran Vineyard Estates/Rodrigo Ruiz Ciancia; Four Seasons Resort and Residences; Murphy-Larsen Ranch; Ranches at Belt Creek

REAL ESTATE


RANCHES: HOMES ON THE RANGE C Lazy U Granby, Colorado At these 40 35-acre homesites, you can board your own horses or work with one of the 225 horses owned by the ranch. Most buyers are previous guests who want a headache-free ranch of their own. The ranch manages the entirety of the land; two restaurants; two miles of private river for fishing; and a full-service spa. Member services include everything from airport pickup to setting the thermostat in your home for your arrival. From $1.05 million– $1.8 million; clazyu.com

Ranches at Belt Creek Belt, Montana Developer Mark Hawn was looking for a place where his family could gather and enjoy the West. In 2005, he ended up buying an 800-acre ranch in Montana, and soon his friends were saying: “Wouldn’t it be nice to have a place where we can create memories so, when my kids have families, they will always want to bring them out to the ranch?” That’s when Hawn bought land at Belt Creek and began selling 5-, 10-, and 25-acre ranches with amenities like equestrian barns and a riding arena, horse-whispering classes, fly fishing tours on Belt Creek, catered cliffside sunset dinners, and access for hiking and riding on another 8,000 privately owned acres. $700,000 for a 5-acre homesite, $1.2 million for 25 acres; ranchesatbeltcreek.com Murphy-Larsen Ranch Clark, Colorado Guests of the Home Ranch resort often ask, “Where can I buy property around here?” says Cindy MacGray of Steamboat Sotheby’s International Realty. “They can’t live here full time but want to have the connection.” Amenities for Murphy-Larson Ranch homeowners include fly fishing on the Elk River; private trails for horseback riding and hiking; and, in winter, crosscountry skiing terrain. The ranch encompasses just a dozen 50-acre lots (six are still available), each of which includes deeded rights to 1,500 acres of private land and access to the vast Routt National Forest. From $700,000; murphy-larsen.com

VINEYARDS: SERVE HOUSE WINES

Castello di Casole Tuscany, Italy Each of the residences on this ancient, 4,200-acre estate comes with 100-plus acres of vineyards, olive groves, fruit orchards, and wheat fields (managed by the estate’s agricultural team). Some sites also have existing ruins that can be restored, or the in-house architecture and interior teams can design and build a new home with a glass-tiled pool, marble baths, and endless views. Owners have access to the facilities of the resort Belmond Castello di Casole. From $5.5 million; belmond.com Gran Vineyard Estates Mendoza, Argentina The estates are surrounded by award-winning vineyards in the country’s largest wine-producing region with over 300 wineries producing chardonnay, viognier, petit verdot, pinot noir, and the famed malbec. Snow-topped Andes provide a dramatic backdrop. Lots range from .35 to 1.2 acres and include a planned neighborhood of lower-priced, eco-friendly casitas. From $320,000; ecidevelopment.com Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley, California Although the 20 two- and threebedroom villas branded and serviced by the Four Seasons are sold out, interested parties can be added to a waiting list. “The charm lies in being able to walk out your back door, across your terrace, and directly into the vineyard to enjoy all of the amenities of the Four Seasons,” says Joshua Dempsey, broker at Coldwell Banker Global Luxury. This wine-centric resort includes a tasting room, wine cave, private wine library, barrel room, and exclusive access to the annual Festival Napa Valley in July. Take a short drive to restaurants like The French Laundry and Single Thread, both with three Michelin stars. From $4.5 million; napaluxuryliving.com u Fall 2019 203


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THE LAST PAGES

•What’s NEXT•

Restaurants The restaurant chain known for its steaks like the massive 32-ounce, 45-day-dryaged, double-bone prime rib-eye (carved tableside), Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse debuts a bar menu that includes corn dog–battered lobster tails, salmon crudo with miso, and cheesesteak eggrolls. At the Los Angeles location, reserve a spot at The Edith, a new upstairs Champagne bar (100 different labels) that channels the glamour of Old Hollywood. delfriscos.com; the-edith.com

Multi-Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire opens the convivial Italian eatery Piero TT (left) in Paris’ SaintGermain-des-Prés. Expect classics like spaghetti topped with shaved white truffle and gnocchi with gorgonzola cheese and roasted tomato. Chianti by the glass. Finish with burrata cheese with Campari. pierregagnaire.com Canton Disco at the Shanghai Edition hotel serves roast meats and fresh seafood flavored with regional spices in a lively space pumping out ’70s disco music. Named for the legendary Hong Kong nightclub, it’s loud, with wellpaced service. Try the pork belly hot pot and the boba milk tea for dessert. editionhotels.com Michelin-starred chef Alain Verzeroli, a 21-year Robuchon alum, launches two New York restaurants. The 62-seat Le Jardinier feels like an indoor garden with a vegetable-forward menu. Spare and elegant, Shun (below) offers a hyperseasonal tasting menu of French dishes with Japanese accents. lejardinier-nyc.com; shun-nyc.com

Healdsburg, California, producer of elegant chardonnay and full-bodied cabernet, Jordan Vineyard & Winery (above) debuts an 18th-century French-inspired, Geoffrey De Sousa–designed dining room. Jordan Estate Rewards members (you have to spend $500 on wine—easy to do) book private lunches or dinners, pairing Jordan vintages with just-picked produce from the chef ’s kitchen garden (more than 20 types of heirloom tomatoes, wasabi greens, fraises des bois, and honey from the apiary). jordanwinery.com Start with a glass of chilled bubbly from a curated Champagne cart at 701West, opened in March inside the Times Square Edition hotel. Patrons sink into velvetupholstered banquettes and order from a 700-bottle global wine list that includes rare selections dating to the 1930s. The kitchen tailors meals—from a mediumrare filet to tender halibut—to match the chosen wine. For a savory finish, try a selection (cut-to-order) from the cheese cart, paired with vintage Calvados. 701westnyc.com 206 Fall 2019

Opened in April inside a decommissioned and revamped Los Angeles firehouse (now a nine-suite boutique hotel), The Restaurant at Arts District Firehouse Hotel serves crowd-pleasing American cuisine—hefty hamburgers with smoked onions or steak with fingerlings and whipped Dijon butter. For dessert: charred lemon cake. firehousela.com


Courtesy Images, Clockwise From Top Left: ONE65 Patisserie & Boutique; Formosa Cafe/Maxim Shapovalov; The Berkeley Bar & Terrace; Citizen Rail. Opposite Page, Courtesy Images From Top: Piero TT/Piero Marco Strullu; Jordan Vineyard & Winery/Kim Carroll; Shun/Liz Clayman

• Another Robuchon protégé, chef Claude Le Tohic is the man behind ONE65 Patisserie & Boutique (above)—six floors of French food opened in May in a Beaux-Arts building in San Francisco’s Union Square. Try the 10-course, winepaired tasting menu. Save room for the cheese, miniature pastries, and jewel-like chocolates from the mignardises cart. one65sf.com Following the success of his 12-seat Aulis Hong Kong, chef Simon Rogan opens a second restaurant in Hong Kong’s chic and expensive Causeway Bay. Roginac offers 8-, 10-, or 15-course tasting menus that have included caviar-topped sea urchin custard or dry-aged duck with paper-thin turnip slices. The beautifully plated portions are tasty one-bites. roganic.com.hk Grab a seat at Citizen Rail’s chef ’s counter (below) in Denver to watch live-fire cooking over a gaucho-style grill. Chat with chef Christian Graves about different woods and how they enhance the flavor of food. The meat- and seafood-centric menu includes flavorful sides like coal-roasted carrots and cast-iron duck fat roasted potatoes. citizenrail.com

Bars

At West Hollywood’s storied Formosa Café (above), Elvis once tipped a waitress with a Cadillac (or so the story goes) and famous patrons included Frank Sinatra, Ava Gardner, and John Wayne. Newly opened after a $2.5 million renovation, the bar retains its 1930s red-lacquer vibe. Order from a short dim sum menu, but the retro cocktails (tropical mai tais and Singapore slings) are the real draw. theformosacafe.com

At The Riddler, Champagne is paired with smoked-salmon-and-caviar-topped tater tot waffles. Choose from among 100-plus Champagnes by the glass or the jeroboam. Blankets are passed out on the patio during cool San Francisco evenings. An outpost opens in New York City’s West Village in the fall. theriddlersf.com

After a razzle-dazzle renovation, Shanghai’s Bar Rouge reopens with a long, sleek entrance runway, a see-and-be-seen central bar, and a high-tech dance floor. The action starts early, goes late, gets packed, and stays loud. Sweeping views from VIP seating on the rooftop terrace. Come to see international DJs like David Guetta and Claptone. barrougeclubs.com David Chang’s new watering hole, Bar Wayō, has a big patio that juts out over the East River on South Street Seaport’s Pier 17. Drinks carry evocative names like The Beacon, New Fashion, and Zombie Elvis (with peanut butter–washed rum). A small menu lists outstanding bar food: dashi-based clam soup, grilled fish on house-made potato rolls, and chicken and gravy balls (Grandma’s Sunday supper in a single bite). wayo. momofuku.com

The Berkeley Bar & Terrace (above) unveils its coral-and-cream makeover and an intimate terrace (four tables) that overlooks London’s St. Paul’s Church. The cocktail list showcases Champagne, whiskey, and rum from bold-type names and under-the-radar producers. From a small food menu: Cornish crab and lobster beignets alongside classic caviar and oyster dishes. the-berkeley.co.uk w Fall 2019 207


Shop

Books Diner à la Maison (below) Parisian architect, gourmand, and bon vivant Laurent Buttazzoni has penned a guide to hosting chic, French-style dinner parties. Simple tips and recipes, as well as examples of enchanting table settings, follow the introduction by his friend and frequent dinner guest Sofia Coppola. $40; rizzoliusa.com

Food & Drink Sourced from peerless farms across Japan, America, and Australia, prime cuts of ultrapremium steaks from Holy Grail Steak Co. include the extraordinarily rare Hokkaido Snow Beef from Chateau Uenae. Difficultto-find brands like Ōmi Beef, HidaGyu, and Ozaki Farms are also available. God of the Grill Collection (eight steaks) $499; holygrailsteak.com

Casa Perfect (above) is an unconventional retail gallery in a West Village brownstone furnished by a roster of young and emerging artists and designers. Open for hanging out with friends and, of course, everything is for sale. By appointment. thefutureperfect.com

Hasselblad Masters Volume 6: Innovate Stunningly beautiful images by top photographers from around the world. $99; benthomas.co

Red-carpet celebrities and other A-listers book into L.Raphael’s five-star beauty spas and emerge with a youthful glow. New to the brand’s coveted product line is the Diamond Powder sheet mask, debuted at the 2019 Cannes Film Festival and created in collaboration with legendary Swiss jeweler Chopard. $490; l-raphael.com French beauty emporium L’Officine Universelle Buly has partnered with the Louvre to develop fragrances inspired by famous works of art (below). Available at the Louvre gift shop until January 2020; on the Buly website until July 2020. Perfume and candles ($140 each); buly1803.com

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Julie Simon of Julie Simon Cakes (above) is a bespoke cake artist whose dazzling and delicious work can resemble a fruitand-flower-filled Dutch still life or a Marc Chagall vase of spring flowers. She travels nationwide from her Los Angeles studio to deliver her masterpieces and make sure each sugar petal and leaf is perfect. Price upon request; juliesimoncakes.com

Drawing Architecture (above) Beautiful drawings (250) by the world’s most admired architects. Some built projects; others only exist on paper. $80; phaidon.com

Sipsmith Gin, the first copper-pot distillery to open in London in 200 years, was started by three gin-loving aristocrats and now ships worldwide. Try all three: London Dry Gin, Lemon Drizzle Gin, and the bold and botanical V.J.O.P (Very Junipery Over Proof ). From $35/bottle; $190/case (not including shipping); sipsmith.com u —I.R.

Courtesy Images From Top: Casa Perfect NY/Douglas Friedman; Rizzoli; Julie Simon/Deborah Jaffe; Hasselblad; L’Officine Universelle Buly

A feast for the eyes and the palate in one vivid package: Each jcoco + Chihuly Chocolate Gift Set features four of jcoco’s signature flavors, including Bali Sea Salt Toffee. Ten percent of sales are donated to artist Dale Chihuly’s renowned Pilchuck Glass School near Seattle. seattlechocolate.com


Kalpagraphe Chronomètre

Manufactured entirely in Switzerland parmigiani.com

MANFREDI JEWELS 121 Greenwich Ave Greenwich, CT 06830 T. (203) 622-1414 Call or text our concierge service to find out more (786) 481-1996

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Luxury Magazine Fall 2019  

Luxury Magazine Fall 2019

Luxury Magazine Fall 2019  

Luxury Magazine Fall 2019