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C R U I S I N G W O R L D . C O M


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I thought at first that by visiting Bras d’Or Lake, I could scratch it off my list of destinations to sail to someday. I was wrong. Our visit only moved it to the top.

AN INLAND SEA, PAGE 50

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Sailing with Style The next-generation Grand Soleil 43 follows elegantly in the footsteps of its performance-oriented siblings. By Mark Pillsbury

Underway

33 On Watch

38 Point of View

76 Chartering News

march 2016

106 Off Watch HANDS-ON SAILOR

59 Commuter Cruising 101 Experience far-flung adventures while maintaining ties with work and home. By Spencer Smith

62 Upcycling Your Tired Sails When our main blew out, we used a little creativity to sew new life into the old rags. By Heather Francis

40 BECKONED BY A CLEARING A war story and sea tale born decades earlier in a subantarctic forest attracts Wanderer III to the wild and remote Auckland Islands. St o r y a n d Ph o t o g ra p h s b y Th i e s Ma t ze n

50 EXPLORING AN INLAND SEA Bluewater sailors have long been attracted to Bras d’Or Lake, but a charter vacation to Canada’s inland sea makes the getting there oh so much easier. By Ma r k Pil l s b u r y

Little Big Boat With its stretched waterline, generous topsides and ample beam, the MarlowHunter 31 offers a lot of cruiser in a tidy package. By Herb McCormick

73 Neptune’s Favorite Choir When it comes to onboard entertaining, the gear can be as simple or complex as your wallet and tastes allow. By David Schmidt

66 Burn, Baby, Burn If your diesel engine is not burning fuel efficiently, the exhaust byproducts can include soot, carbon and water. By Steve D’Antonio

71

ON THE COVER Wanderer III, a Laurent Giles design, approaches the Auckland Islands in dense fog. Photo by Thies Matzen


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It’s wise to come well ar med to the battle with Old Man Winter.

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P I L L S B U R Y

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eeing that we’re in the depths of our cold, dark winter here in Newport, Rhode Island, I feel like talking about warmth and light — and how I’ve satisfied the need for both aboard our Sabre 34 for the past several years. In some ways, living aboard a sailboat in New England, in the winter, is the easy part. Once the boat is at the marina, wrapped in plastic and tied off with a spider’s web of lines to ride out the seemingly continuous northwesterly gales, you’re not going anywhere. At that point, you can pretty much just tap into shore power and live like a king until spring. On Jackalope, my mainstay heater is a DeLonghi oil-filled radiator that I’ve had for several seasons now. It took some searching to find a radiator that’s not mounted on wheels, and better yet, the DeLonghi is rather squat and not prone to tipping over, with wide plastic feet. The heater has a few different heat settings; I leave it set on the maximum. It also has a timer, which I’ve never bothered to use. I just let the thing crank out the Btus, 24/7. Finally, the DeLonghi has a built-in GFCI plug, a nice feature when playing with electrical devices in a watery environment. The radiator works fine in the late fall and for much of the spring, but once the cold really settles in, I plug in a second heater. For several winters, I went with cheapie quartz ones from the big-box store. They’d work OK, and most of them lasted almost a full season before wearing out. Then one didn’t. So one chilly, windy night, I rushed out to replace it, and the only thing available was a Vornado home

A shrink-wrap cover all but eliminates wind blowing across the deck and taking heat with it from the living space belowdecks (left). The efficient blue flame of the Force 10 heater is most welcome on chilly nights (right).

heater. It was pricey, but it’s super quiet when the fan comes on, throws off a ton of heat, and I expect I’ll get several winters of good use out of it. The automatic tip-over shut-off switch is a little temperamental because of the slight curve in the cabin sole, but with a little duct tape to pad it, it works as intended. Even on the coldest evenings, if both heaters are on, the saloon remains in the mid-60s, which is certainly tolerable. I can’t say the same for the V-berth, however. Many a morning I’ve woken up to find the sheets frozen to the hull. My answer to the ice castle is an electric heating blanket. I bury Old Sparky under a couple of other blankets and a down comforter, and turn it on a couple of hours before bedtime. Besides making the bunk toasty warm, it helps dry out any moisture that’s accumulated. The last thing I do before climbing in is turn off the blanket so I don’t sleep like a Trekkie with the force field on. When I first started spending winters aboard, we didn’t have a permanent battery charger, so I bought simple clip-on AC lights at the hardware store so the DC house lamps wouldn’t discharge the battery bank. Since then, we’ve installed a Sterling Power charger to keep the batteries topped off, and I use the house lights, eliminating

the need for extension cords. In many ways, the real challenge comes during the shoulder seasons, when the boat gets moved to the mooring. It can get downright cold in May and October, and that’s when I revere the kerosene Force 10 heater that came with the boat. Fill the cup under the burner with a little alcohol, light it to get the metal around it nice and hot, and presto, a hissing blue flame and heat, glorious heat! When I first tried using the Force 10, the flame was pretty anemic, and tapping it (per the instruction manual) to clear away carbon deposits choked off the fuel supply permanently. The little heater sat idle for a couple of seasons, until a dockmate told me where to find replacement parts. It cost a hundred bucks and took a couple of hours to install the new burner, but now that baby roars. Perhaps the best pieces of equipment I have aboard are two Den Haan Trawler Junior lamps. I hate to run our engine if I’m not going anywhere, but I love to sit up reading, which requires lights. The Den Haans burn unscented smokeless lamp oil and provide plenty of light to read by. Better yet, they look lovely and give off heat that dries out the cabin on cold, damp evenings. All this aside, I still look forward to July.

MARK PILLSBURY

cruisingworld.com

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V P, D I R E C TO R O F B R A N D S T R AT E G I E S Matt Hickman E D I TO R I A L D I R E C TO R Shawn Bean C R E AT I V E D I R E C TO R Dave Weaver C O N S U M E R M A R K E T I N G D I R E C TO R Leigh Bingham G R O U P M A R K E T I N G D I R E C TO R Haley Bischof S E N I O R M A R K E T I N G M A N AGE R Kelly MacDonald P U B L I C R E L AT I O N S M A N AG E R Robyn Sheckler G R O U P P R O D U C T I O N D I R E C TO R Michelle Doster P R O D U C T I O N M A N AGE R Robin Baggett 407-571-4844 robin.baggett@bonniercorp.com GRAPHIC ARTISTS Julia Arana, Jennifer Remias H U M A N R E S O U R C E S D I R E C TO R Sheri Bass

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W R I T E R / P H OTO G R A P H E R GU I D E L I N E S : cruisingworld.com/guidelines CW R E C KO N I N GS N E W S L E T T E R : Subscribe at cruisingworld.com. CW ’ S C H A R T E R D I R E C TO R Y : cruisingworld.com/charter/charter-directory B AC K I S S U E S : Back issues cost $5 plus postage. Call 515-237-3697. R E P R I N T S : Email reprints@bonniercorp.com. This product is from sustainably managed forests and controlled sources.

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IT’S YOUR WATERLIFE.

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Lila W. West Marine Associate Lila is wearing the world’s best-selling foul weather gear, West Marine’s Third Reef jacket and bib.


march 2016

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cruisingworld.com


MARCH 2016

NEWS and NOTES from the CRUISING COMMUNITY

or those of us lucky enough to have known Jon Eisberg, a fabulous photographer and wonderful writer whose work graced these pages on multiple occasions, this past holiday season was far less than

wonderful. At 65, having just wrapped up a full autumn of sailing adventures, Jon passed away peacefully — and unexpectedly — on Christmas Eve at his seaside home by New Jersey’s Barnegat Bay. And the world, in many ways, was very suddenly a lesser place to be. § Bobbing in a slip adjacent to his home, his beloved Chance 30-30,

JON EISBERG (OPPOSITE); COURTESY OF JON EISBERG

Chancy, tugged at her lines. A delivery skipper and professional photographer who made his own schedule, Jon kept her in the water year-round, ready to go. When the itch to set sail became overwhelming, even in the dead of winter, Jon was always prepared to scratch it. Sailing solo, as he often did, two summers ago Jon took off aboard his well-found, well-tested 30-footer on an intrepid, 4,000mile round-trip adventure north to the Labrador Sea; one of his stunning, breathtaking images from that trip appeared on this very spread (see “Serendipity at Saglek Bay,” February 2015). I’d known Jon for 15 years; we While on a fall foliage cruise up the Hudson, Jon Eisberg anchored his sailboat, Chancy, off the New Jersey Palisades.

sailed together in New England, the Bahamas and even Thailand. But that was small beans compared to Jon’s older brother, Bud, and his other “bros,” Rick Mirbach and Bob Aglow, who’d all been pals since childhood. In the days following Jon’s death, we swapped messages, memories and commiserations, all of us in varying degrees of shock. One thing was very clear: Friends of Jon were friends for life. The last time I spoke with Jon was in early December, after he’d completed an offshore cruising rally — his first — from the East Coast to the Caribbean. It wasn’t Jon’s usual style of sailing, but the voyage south had been fast and magical, the company aboard fun

and congenial, and he’d surprised himself with how much he’d enjoyed the entire experience. That was Jon — always open to new voyages and fresh ideas. “You know,” he said, “now I understand why people do these rallies.” But he was even more excited about another trip, a more modest one, he’d taken last fall. On a whim, he steered Chancy up the coast and into the Hudson River to see the autumn foliage. It was something he’d always wanted to do, and he had a blast. “I’ll send you a picture!” he said. Here it is, and I’ll add a thought with Jon in mind: Don’t wait to sail where you want to sail. That’s Jon’s message from Chancy’s final cruise. — Herb McCormick

15 march 2016

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FINAL CRUISE

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The ranks of American boatbuilders just got reshuffled. Hinckley Yachts started the new year off by announcing it has purchased Morris Yachts, its neighbor in Mount Desert Island, Maine. In a press release, Hinckley says it plans to continue the Morris boatbuilding and service operations under the Morris Yachts name. Hinckley notes, “Both companies build fine quality yachts within a quarter mile of each other in Trenton, Maine, and with the new arrangement about 380 craftsmen, engineers and technicians will provide a deep pool of talent for the building of world-class yachts.” Morris owners will also be able to tap into Hinckley’s East Coast service yards, which stretch from Maine to Florida. cruisingworld. com/1603morris Ge t I n t h e Lo o p with the Latest Ne w s f r o m C W Have sailing stories, maintenance tips and sailboat reviews delivered right to your inbox with CW Reckonings, a free weekly e-newsletter from the editors of Cruising World. cruisingworld.com/ enews

Circle the Globe in Company

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A HARD CHOICE Concerning the article “Contending Tenders” in your December email (CW e-newsletter, Dec. 24, 2015), I am wondering why you limit the subject matter to inflatable boats. I believe there are very serviceable tenders available, other than totally rigid, that are just as convenient, if not more so, than the ones in the article. I can cite one offhand, the Porta-Bote. There may be more. If I had a vessel, I’d likely consider this type of tender, since it seems to be easily stored and can be powered by oars, motor or even sails. Just a thought. Stefan Taylor Via email Editor’s note: This piece originally appeared in the December 2015 print issue with the title “Inflatables? Debatable!” The scope of the article was only intended to cover inflatable boats; however, there are several hard-tender resources on our website

at cruisingworld.com/1603tenders. BY THE POUND In reference to your January 2016 Editor’s Log, by the time most sailboats are 15 to 20 years old, they typically sell for around $5 per pound, independent of their original construction costs. That simply reflects that the builder supplies about 30 percent of the boat, buying the other 70 percent, and that other 70 percent — engines, rigging, sails, mechanicals, electronics and so on— needs to be periodically replaced. In the halcyon days, wooden sailing vessels were typically priced out per pound. It still remains a useful rule of thumb for older cruising sailboats, along with the old standby that increased size/displacement may bring increased comfort, but will certainly bring substantially increased purchase and operating costs. Peter I. Berman Norwalk, Connecticut

n Saturday, January 9, 30 boats headed out of Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, on a 26,000-mile circumnavigation with the World ARC. From their first stop in Santa Marta, Colombia, the fleet will then head through the Panama Canal and on to the Galapagos and South Pacific. Some rally participants plan to go only as far as Australia, and more will join the rally there in time for its second half, which leaves Darwin in September 2016. After stops in the Indian Ocean, the boats will be in South Africa for the holidays and Brazil for Carnival before completing the loop back in St. Lucia in April 2017. The international fleet represents 18 countries, and the boats range from a 36-foot Albin Stratus to an Oyster 62, along with 12 catamarans. Interested in the adventure? Entries are open for the next edition of the World ARC, which heads out from St. Lucia next January. Track the fleet — or sign up! — at the World Cruising Club website (worldcruisingclub.com/ world_arc). — Jen Brett Eleven children are sailing with the World ARC, and the crews are a mix of families, couples and friends (top). The fleet sails out of St. Lucia (above).

COURTESY OF WORLD CRUISING CLUB/ LUCIA IVANISSEVICH (2)

cruisingworld.com

A Ne w Ch a p t e r f o r Mo r r i s Ya c h t s

My family has been boating on Lake Superior for seven years in our 36-foot trawler, and we plan to do the Great Loop in the future. Being a powerboater, I do not subscribe to many sailing magazines. Yours, however, is the one magazine, power or sail, that I anticipate the most. The article “Warning: Side Effects May Include ... ” in the October 2013 issue (read online at cruisingworld. com/1603warning) is one of the best articles I have ever read. I have read and reread this story many times, and yes, I am willing to take the risk of lesson two and cast off one day. Thank you for publishing the many great tales of people and their adventures. — Scott Kellett, Via email


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EM1 TONY ROBB (2); COURTESY OF NOAA

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f you’re planning on cruising Maine this summer, make note of these changes to the foghorns. The Coast Guard is installing Mariner Radio Activated Sound Signal (MRASS) devices (right) at 17 lighthouses along the Maine coast, and they should be functional by this spring. The MRASS system is basically foghorns on demand, and will replace the aging automatic foghorns typically found at select lighthouses across the country. To use an MRASS device, a mariner simply keys the mic on his or her VHF radio five times on channel 83A. The foghorn will then sound with its regular characteristics for one hour. The range to acti-

vate the signals is typical for VHF radios, roughly 10 to 25 miles. The 17 lighthouses to be equipped with MRASS join others across the country equipped with the system. Changes in the sound signals will be announced as they occur via “Broadcast Notice to Mariners,” which can be

Lighthouses with the MRASS device are noted on NOAA charts and in the “Local Notice to Mariners.”


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U N D E R W AY

A HORDE ABOARD

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We all know the importance of safety on the water. David Gerber shares simple tips to make sure you and your crew are sailing at the top of your safety game. “Much like you make sure your kids know how to dial 911, make sure everyone knows the proper procedure for calling for help,” says Gerber. “You as the skipper might know what to do, but what if you’re the one needing help? It might make you feel a bit like a flight attendant, but my point is: Don’t worry about the redundancy. Make the team feel safe, and they will act safe and enjoy the sailing experience.” cruisingworld. com/1603safety

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he last sliver of sun overlooking the harbor in Pago Pago ducked behind a cascading wall of green rainforest. Dusk settled over American Samoa as my husband, Jim, and I enjoyed the last of our sundowners in the cockpit. Then something in the shadows zigzagged past my feet. I jumped, toppling my empty glass. “Hand me a flashlight, Jim,” I said, an octave higher than usual. He reached for a light stowed nearby and flicked the switch. Three unblinking geckos froze in the glare of the beam before zipping across the cockpit coaming. “I thought we agreed on just one gecko,” Jim said. I had no explanation because I hadn’t

A group of sixth-grade boys made perfect gecko scouts.

GECKO INFO In an article in Reptiles magazine called “American Geckos,” reptile expert Dr. Richard “Dick” Bartlett says there are several types of unisexual (or parthenogenetic) geckos found in the Americas and Hawaii. Here they are: MOURNING GECKO

(Lepidodactylus lugubris): Found on many of the Pacific Islands, but also in Mexico and Hawaii. INDO-PACIFIC GECKO

(Hemidactylus garnotii): Indigenous to Asia, but found in Florida and Georgia and expanding rapidly. TREE GECKO

(Hemiphyllodactylus typus): Found in Hawaii.

Catching mourning geckos was almost as easy as catching cockroaches. Accomplished escape artists, they rocketed out of our hands. But we learned to immobilize one at a time by tossing a T-shirt over them. Once one was caught, we’d scoop it into an empty food container and close the lid. The morning after our discovery in the cockpit, we made several treks to the rainforest to release our catches. We trapped the adult later and released her too. We’re still on the lookout for more babies. We also continue to support going green. But if

Ne e d a Va c a t i o n ? We’ve dedicated a whole section of our website to charter information, including tips on where to go and what to pack, as well as a directory of charter companies and brokers. Find all this and more at cruisingworld.com/ charter. Ge t S o c i a l Cruising World is now on Instagram! Follow @cruisingworldmag for drool-inducing cruising photos.

and disappeared.

MERI FAULKNER (LEFT); GETTY IMAGES

cruisingworld.com

Ea s y Wa ys t o Pu t Sa f e t y Fi r s t

traps failed. But we’d read articles about cruisers using geckos aboard boats to help control insects. They were small, low-maintenance and voracious bug eaters. Carolyne had begged for a pet. We thought a cute, carefree gecko was the perfect solution. “But we don’t want a horde on board, so just get one,” Jim had said. I taught school on the island while we waited out the season. I asked my sixth-grade students if they would help me in my quest for a gecko. Hands shot in the air and eyes lit up. I had more than enough volunteers. The next morning, several puff-chested boys lined up at my desk with their smooth-skinned specimens. We paraded the contestants around the classroom, and students voted. The winning reptile went home with me. The others we replaced outdoors among the banana plants and papaya trees. The champion was a small, tan gecko with distinctive W’s repeating along her narrow back. Her tiny feet had the characteristic sticky cloverleaf toe pads. When I got home, Carolyne released her new, free-range pet on deck to devour our uninvited invertebrates. “Bon appétit,” I said, thinking we’d finally solved our problem. What we would come to realize was that our gecko had a gift. After doing some research, we


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GEAR FOR THE CRUISING LIFE 1. ELEMENTS dry duffel • $350 • viciousvenom elements.com Typical dry bags are useful and good at protecting your things, but they’re not exactly stylish. If you’re looking for something a little nicer to bring your stuff to shore in, but still want it to stay dry, check out the new line of dry bags from Vicious Venom. The Elements collection includes a clutch, wallet, backpack and duffel (shown). All are made out of a waterproof,

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2. WICHARD offshore knife • $50 • wichard.com A good knife is invaluable on a boat, and the new Offshore knife from Wichard is a worthy addition to your kit. The ergonomic handle offers a good grip, and the knife comes with an adjustable strap so you can secure it to your wrist. The coated stainless-steel blade is corrosion-resistant and can easily cut through most high-tech line.

3. YETI rambler bottles • $40 and up • yeticoolers.com

4. SEALIFE micro 2.0 camera • $500 and up • sealife-cameras.com

The double-wall vacuum insulation on the Rambler bottles will keep hot or cold for hours — perfect for your night watch. Durable 18/8 stainlesssteel construction, a leak-proof, insulated lid, and a wide mouth ensure these bottles will go the distance and be comfortable to use. The Rambler bottles are available in three sizes: 18 , 36 and 64 ounces.

If you’re looking to share the beauty of the world beneath your boat with your friends back home, check out the SeaLife Micro 2.0. This compact camera is fully sealed and can be used underwater down to 200 feet. Three large keys on the back control all the essential functions and are easy to use with or without gloves.

5. SPINLOCK lume-on • $20 • spinlock.com This clever piece of safety gear is a tiny LED light that attaches to the bladder of an inflatable PFD. Once activated, the light uses the bladder as a diffuser and illuminates the whole jacket, increasing the visibility of any crew in the water. The Lume-On is packaged in pairs (one for each side of the bladder), and its self-adhesive backing is simple to attach to the PFD.

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COURTESY OF THE MANUFACTURERS

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•C

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BOOK H 2016 RC • •••••• •••••

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“ by Jonathan Franklin (2015; Atria Books; $26)

Just three months after returning from their Arctic expedition, the Barba crew are back at it, this time sailing north along the coast of Norway. Skipper Andreas Heide writes, “Our weather has ranged from snow and gales to calms with clear skies, stars and the gift of the Northern Lights dancing on the horizon. The diesel heater runs continuously below deck and morale is as warm as the temperature, even as outside the mercury plunged to -20 degrees Celsius. It’s a cold, challenging and, at times, dangerous environment. But that is, of course, part of the reason why we’re here.” cruisingworld. com/1603barba

In January 2014, news broke that a fisherman had drifted from Mexico all the way across the Pacific to the Marshall Islands. Many doubted the plausibility of a 14-month survival drift. With a rounded face and beard, José Salvador Alvarenga looked too healthy, like Santa Claus, many claimed. Facts at the time were few, and photos didn’t help much, but looking closely, I noted that his weathered and thin hands told a different tale than his face. Edema also could account

a buck or two? My own experience, and that of fellow ocean survivors, taught me that when a survivor has the bad taste to show up alive long after folks have written him or her off, the shouting of “hoax” is all too common. Now 438 Days gives us the facts. Alvarenga, originally from El Salvador but posing as a Mexican, was fishing off the Mexican coast with a young mate and got caught in a blow. When the engine quit, off they went. This unparalleled story by Jon

When José Salvador Alvarenga washed ashore in the Marshall Islands after 14 months at sea, some thought he looked too healthy.

for parts of his body swelling. The view I gave to a variety of news outlets was that, as unlikely as it might seem that this drift occurred, staging a hoax was even more unlikely. It would be incredibly difficult and expensive, and for what? The off chance that he might gain publicity and make

Franklin, who previously wrote The 33 about miners in Chile trapped underground for 69 days, is a fascinating compendium of the author’s in-depth research, including extensive interviews with Alvarenga and with the families, fellow fishermen and Marshall Islanders where

Alvarenga knew the danger of storms better than most, but he was on a streak — he had just caught half a ton of fish and there were plenty more to be taken.

JONATHAN FRANKLIN, 438 DAYS

supplied a relatively rich larder compared to that of other ocean survivors, and in an offshore world that’s increasingly empty of fish. It also took him through a region frequented by rainsqualls. Having a 25-foot solid boat provided not only more space than survivors in rafts have, but also a much better working platform, water catchment surface and protection from marine life. Alvarenga and his mate found additional shelter in a large cooler. Living off the sea for so long with almost no tools is hugely encouraging to other mariners who find themselves adrift. Franklin reveals the evolution and complexity of the survival experience. Alvarenga was a man with a troubled past, but with incredible fortitude and the ability to adapt. There may be nothing noble about surviving itself, and Alvarenga was no varnished hero, but we can find plenty of inspiration from the complex and very real human being who always found the strength to trudge forward rather than give up, and who found, in the end, salvation and a new beginning. — Steve Callahan

ANDREAS B. HEIDE (FAR LEFT); COURTESY OF THE PUBLISHER

cruisingworld.com

Cruising World editor Mark Pillsbury was on site at Strictly Sail Chicago, the midwinter boat show in the Windy City. Check out his photo gallery from the warmth of ... wherever you are. cruisingworld. com/1603chicago

B a r b a He a d s No r t h

A

Alvarenga was, in fact, perfectly suited to long-term ocean survival. He had the psychological and physical tool kit, felt at home afloat, was skilled at catching prey, and had routinely eaten raw food. His mate, a young man he barely knew, was not so well equipped, and died tragically en route, leaving Alvarenga alone for another 10-plus months. What is particularly surprising and encouraging about the tale is that Alvarenga’s drift path

S t r i c t l y Sa i l Ch i c a g o

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CALLING ON CRUISERS

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Ocean Research Project director Matt Rutherford holds the Fish Finder device.

I

almost missed Carl Richards and his wife, Ardy, before they set off down Chesapeake Bay. We managed to meet up in Solomons Island just before their big push south so I could give them a special device that listens for tagged

marine species. Carl and Ardy are fulfilling a dream in their retirement, leaving lake sailing in the Midwest for life aboard a Saga 43 called Northern Star. They are bound for a decade of exploring the East Coast, Bahamas and possibly beyond. Carl, a former scientist with the EPA, caught wind of Ocean Research Project’s latest initiative, one that calls on cruisers who want to sail for science and education. Carl is no stranger to shipbased oceanographic research. Ready to mix science with play, he promptly signed up for our Fish Finder Program, which ORP’s director, Matt Rutherford, and I launched at a single- and doublehanding

seminar during the 2015 U.S. Sailboat Show in Annapolis. At the show, couples like Carl and Ardy expressed their interest in contributing to ocean sustainability while underway. For these sailors and others, we designed the Fish Finder Program to be very userfriendly. When you’re on the hook or at a marina, just hang the device overboard well below the keel, but above the seabed, to give it ample room to listen for fish. Jot down a few notes about where you are and when you raised and lowered the device, and we’ll do the rest. We are still looking for volunteer cruisers, preferably sailing the U.S. coast, to serve

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as Fish Finders. By crowdsourcing data together, we can capture the whereabouts and track the behavior of critical fish species. With the help of Dr. Matt Ogburn at the Smithsonian Environmental Research Center, collected data will be dispersed to the global network of scientists studying the detected species. Ogburn is most interested in the poorly understood cownose ray. Like cruisers, rays move south for the winter toward Florida, but little is known of their activity. Scientists fear overfishing and have turned to bioacoustic population studies to best advise fishery managers and state officials. This is where cruisers can help. To learn more about our active Fish Finders, or to apply for the program, check out the Ocean Research Project’s website (oceanresearchproject. org). — Nicole Trenholm

NICOLE TRENHOLM

U N D E R W AY


COURTESY OF POLYNESIAN VOYAGING SOCIETY

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magine for a moment that you’ve been asked to do a circumnavigation from Hawaii on a 62-foot traditional Polynesian voyaging canoe with crab-claw sails and no engine. “Challenging,” you may say, “but doable. When do we leave?” Not so fast, sailor: For the Pacific leg, you’ll be traveling sans compass, GPS, sextant or self-steering. How are you feeling now? Ready to go? Such is the odyssey of the Polynesian Voyaging Society’s Hokulea, which departed Hilo, Hawaii, in May 2014, bound on a three-year circumnavigation that will exceed 60,000 miles. Along the way, the crew will make port stops to promote Hawaiian indigenous culture and draw attention to global climate change and its effects on the oceans. The primary goal is to further support of the anthropological theory of an Asiatic,

THE WAYFINDERS OF HOKULEA

not South American, origin of the native Oceanic people. This flies in the face of many scholars’ opinions, including that of Thor Heyerdahl,

who believed that Asians of the first millennium were not capable of traveling to Polynesia against prevailing wind and currents, but rather

drifted with the winds from places like Peru. The canoe does not point well, but, states Nainoa Thompson, expedition leader and president of the PVS, “It depends on sail conditions and the wind. In normal, fully developed seas, if you can get 70 degrees to the wind true, you’re doing good.” Launched in 1975 at a cost of $125,000, Hokulea was constructed of modern materials, but her builders created a performance-accurate replica that handles much like the ancient voyaging canoes. Since the boat entered the Indian and Atlantic oceans with their increased dangers, however, a full array of modern safety equipment has been added, including GPS, AIS transponder, satellite link and chart plotter. Sailing the 62-foot Hokulea is a challenging, full-body workout for the crew.

cruisingworld.com

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QUANTUM SAILS

CRUISING TIPS

U N D E R W AY

TOP MISCONCEPTIONS ABOUT CODE ZERO SAILS

1

THE CODE ZERO IS A DOWNWIND SAIL USED ONLY IN RACING. NOT TRUE! Cruisers of all types have taken to the sail for its range and ease of use. True downwind spinnakers can be unruly and intimidating for a shorthanded or novice crew, but the range and furling ability of the Code Zero make it a fantastic sail for a weekend outing. Once introduced to the Code Zero, many cruisers will use this sail more than any other on the boat.

While Code Zeros for racing must be of a minimum size (75% girth), Code Zeros for cruisers can be any size, e.g. smaller and fl atter for better close-reaching performance or bigger and deeper for wider angles.

ZERO IS A BEAST 3 ATOCODE GET DOWN. NOT WITH A FURLING SYSTEM!

Today, the majority of Code Zeros are designed on a top-down furler, making it possible for even a novice crew to go from the jib to the Code Zero in a matter of seconds. As a boat owner, the most important question to ask yourself is, “What do I want to do with this sail?” Do you want to use it to sail in very light air to sail relatively close to the wind, or will you use it on a broader reach? The answers to these questions will help your sailmaker determine the design of the sail that’s right for you.

WANT MORE? Visit crusingworld.com/cruising-tips

At 62 feet long and 20 feet wide, Hokulea is a substantial vessel. The boat is constructed of Alaskan spruce and is held together with lashings.

Like all older boats, Hokulea has had its maintenance issues. In 1997 a surveyor examined the hulls, refused to certify seaworthiness, and suggested it be donated to a museum. But Thompson would not be discouraged. He spent years repairing the boat’s dry rot and training some 350 volunteer crew, who cycle in and out on the various legs. Navigator Bruce Blankenfeld directed the refit and managed the army of volunteer workers: “There is no glue, there are no nails, no screws. There is over 6 miles of cordage that holds her together. It’s all lashing, and that technology is a thousand years old.” Finally, the surveyor returned with his knife and mallet and certified the canoe Lloyds A1. Hokulea was reborn and ready to sail. During the planning of the current world voyage, a group of legislators asked Thompson why he wanted to do such an incredibly difficult thing. His response surely left an indelible impression: “We must sail in the wake of our ancestors,” he said, “to find ourselves.” Thompson has guided Hokulea on six voyages, and has racked up 23,000 nautical miles so far on this one. He was trained by legendary navigator Mau Piailug, who schooled him in the ancient art of wayfinding — a traditional Polynesian navigation technique that uses only constant observation of stars and the world around the boat, with the most important times being sunrise and sunset. Thompson is using the voyage to pass on these skills to young crewmembers. “You only know where you are in this kind of navigation by memorizing where you sailed from,” he says. “That means constant observation. You have to

constantly remember your speed, your direction and time. It all has to be done in your head. It is easy, in principle, but it’s hard to do.” To say that captain and crew are living a Spartan life is an understatement. The boat is beautifully constructed of Alaskan spruce wood, but it’s an open deck plan with no cabins or head (even Heyerdahl’s Kon-Tiki had a cabin). The off watch bunks down on the tarp-covered hulls, and at times it takes six people to maneuver the three giant wooden sweeps that steer the canoe. The crew of 11 is exposed to sea, sun, rain and ambient temperature. There is no refrigeration, and the solar power generation is used only when needed for navigation, communication and running lights. The day Hokulea crossed the 30th meridian and entered Mossel Bay, South Africa, the crew both mourned and celebrated: They were as far from Hawaii as they could get, but they were halfway home. Upon arriving in Cape Town, the canoe was hauled for regular maintenance while the crew returned a visit Archbishop Desmond Tutu had made to Hawaii in 2012 to bless the canoe. As you read these words, Hokulea should be well on its way to the Americas; planned U.S. stops begin in Miami in 2016. Hokulea means “Star of Gladness” in Hawaiian, in reference to the star Arcturus, which reaches its zenith directly over Hawaii and will guide the crew as they make their way home in 2017. Follow the voyage of Hokulea as the vessel makes its way toward the U.S., and learn more about the crew’s mission at the PVS’s website (hokulea.com). — Robert Beringer

COURTESY OF POLYNESIAN VOYAGING SOCIETY

2

ALL CODE ZEROS ARE CREATED EQUAL. FALSE AGAIN!


There are two types of people in this world. Those who shy away from challenges, and those who live for them. Which type are you? quantumsails.com


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EASY (UNSTUFFED) CABBAGE ROLLS

cruisingworld.com

1 tablespoon olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 1 clove garlic, minced (or to taste) 1 pound lean ground beef (see variations, below) 4 to 5 cups cabbage, chopped 1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes 1 can (8 ounces) tomato sauce 1 cup beef broth 1 /2 cup or more uncooked rice Salt and pepper, to taste Dash of oregano 4 green onions, chopped, for garnish

COMPLETE COMFORT FOOD

When the winds gave us a respite after blowing hard for weeks, my husband, David, and I escaped our South Florida marina aboard Winterlude, our Passport 37, and sailed to the Marquesas Keys, 25 miles west of Key West. Weather conditions allowed us to stay anchored longer than anticipated in idyllic, uninhabited, palmfringed islets. Food supplies were running low. Searching for something for dinner, I remembered a recipe I’d seen and mentally filed away to try “someday.” We’d had no luck fishing that day, which meant that someday had arrived. § I love stuffed cabbage rolls but don’t make them on board because they’re just too much trouble. This idea, which calls for similar ingredients but not stuffing or rolling the cabbage leaves, seemed boat-perfect. Cabbage, onions and garlic keep forever. You can use ground beef, sausage or even canned chicken, and the remaining ingredients are typical staples on any cruising boat. Plus, it’s a one-pot, stove-top meal! I borrowed the “unstuffed” idea, but made my own modifications to create this recipe. It’s now one of our favorite comfort foods. — Jan S. Irons P R E PA R AT I O N : AT A N C H O R & U N D E R WAY TIME: 1 HOUR D I F F I C U LT Y : E A S Y

Where’s the Beef ? For a lighter but very tasty version of this dish, omit ground beef and substitute the equivalent amount of chicken, cooked and shredded (you can use canned), and a bit of spicy sausage, crumbled, for added flavor. When preparing, brown the sausage in place of the ground beef, but set aside the cooked chicken. Use chicken broth instead of beef broth, and add a bit of Cajun seasoning. (You can make your own by mixing equal parts oregano, paprika, cayenne and black pepper, then adding salt to taste.) Add the cooked chicken just before the rice is done — after about 15 to 20 minutes — so it heats through and absorbs the flavors but doesn’t turn to mush.

LYNDA MORRIS CHILDRESS

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Heat olive oil in a large skillet. Saute onions over medium heat until tender. Add garlic and beef and saute until meat is browned. Add all remaining ingredients except green onions. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer for about 25 minutes, checking and stirring intermittently, adding more liquid if rice requires it. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. When rice is done and cabbage is fork-tender, serve topped with chopped green onions and a warmed loaf of crusty bread. Serves two.


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O n Wa t c h Leaving in a hur r y when anchored on a lee shore can be cause for tense moments and choice words between a skipper and his mate. B Y

C A P ’ N

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G O O D L A N D E R

TROUBLE-FREE

Aboard Ganesh, our 43-foot Wauquiez Amphitrite ketch, I consider it a sin to ever sail to a strict schedule. And while we’re in full cruising mode, we’re pretty good about not doing so. But we were recently hard aground on our own coffee grounds in Singapore, and having far too much fun playing patty-cake with our grandchildren. So we ended up behind schedule to meet our incoming guests in Thailand, nearly 600 nautical miles away. As a result, it was 0400 on a windy morning, still pitchblack out, and Carolyn was on the foredeck peering into the gloom as our anchor chain rattled up. “Once we’re short-scoped,” I shouted loudly, “we’ll have to get it up quick! There are rocks all around, and I’m being sidestepped by a northwesterly current.” She muttered something I couldn’t hear. “Louder!” I called forward. She didn’t respond. We were close to shore, Carolyn learned the finer points of anchoring by pumping with determination on a manual windlass aboard the anchored in the lee of Pulau Goodlanders’ old boat, Wild Card. Pisang, in the dreaded Strait of Malacca. I’d elected not to deploy my anchor light (it’s best to be low-key he worst thing about regularly disin this area), and I’d had to get closer to land pensing advice in a sailing magazine than I wanted to get out of the swell. But it is that you feel really stupid when had been light when I’d anchored, and now it you break your own cardinal rules, the ones was dark. The frothing rocks looked far too you caution fellow sailors to pay strict attenclose for comfort. And Carolyn seemed to be tion to.

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C A P TA I N B L I G H G e t s Hi s CO M E U P PA N C E

cruisingworld.com

ANCHORING A crewmember hoisting the anchor should keep the person on the helm informed during every step of the anchoring process, and vice versa. Thus my wife, Carolyn, says, “I’m taking off the snubber” and “I’m at 150 feet” as the chain rattles in, while I say, “I’m in forward” or “I’m out of gear” as I work the throttle to keep our boat’s bow pointed into the wind. Here are a few tips we’ve learned: The trick to keeping your bow pointed directly to windward is being proactive. I think of it as getting the transom behind the bow, because this affords more reaction time. Once my bow is paying off rapidly, it’s already too late. The trick is to use tiny taps into forward gear with occasional microbursts of power. Windlasses should not be used to pull the boat forward against a moderate or strong breeze — that’s the engine’s job. Once the anchor rode has been short-scoped and the boat’s bow is directly above the dug-in anchor, the engine should again be used to break out the anchor from the bottom. Usually I do this in reverse, so the anchor chain or rode is naturally pulled away from the prop. But occasionally, in close quarters, I’m forced to break out the anchor in forward gear while exercising extreme caution not to foul my prop. A windlass should never be operated haphazardly. It is a piece of heavy equipment that can exert deadly loads. Extra caution should be exercised to make sure nothing gets wound up in the chain gypsy, like a piece of loose clothing, stray cordage or the remote-control cord.


O N WA T C H

cruisingworld.com

taking her sweet time. “Damn it, hon!” I shouted forward. “You realize you’re not getting paid by the hour, right?” I couldn’t tell if she responded. The wind was pushing my bow one way, and the current was pushing my transom the other. I was doing everything I could to play throttle-jockey and hold Ganesh in place. My patience with Carolyn was wearing thin. “Aw, for gosh sake!” I yelled forward. Neither of us had got enough sleep, and we were exhausted from our pre-voyage preparations. She said something, but all I caught was

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the phrase “not helping.” “What’s not helping?!” I bellowed. “You,” she said. I squinted, then clapped my hands together to relieve the tension. She had no idea, I thought, how difficult it was to keep a 30,000-pound vessel stationary in conditions like this — none! In fact, she acted as if she had all the time in the world. “Oh, honey bun,” I moaned, completely exasperated by this point. I heard the windlass jam. It happens if it’s getting too much slack or too much shock-loading. It especially happens, I noted, if the operator’s not paying

attention. I could hear Carolyn laboriously clear the jam. Next I saw her leaning over the bow rail and peering downward into the murky water. Then her headlamp tumbled into the water without warning. “Merde!” I heard her say, which is the closest she gets to turning the air blue. “Do you know where the other headlamp is?” she asked vaguely. I was hopping up and down on one foot. “Goddamn it, Carolyn,” I said.

She said something, but all I caught was the phrase “not helping.” “What’s not helping?!” I bellowed. “You,” she said. “Now’s not the time to quiz me on shipboard inventory!” She calmly strolled aft and ducked below in search of a flashlight. That was the last straw. I dashed forward. “Do I have to do everything myself?” I asked no one. “Evidently, yes,” I replied. Damn, the frothing rocks looked even closer. I felt around the foredeck and found the windlass control’s wire. I grabbed it and followed it to the switch. On Wild Card, our previous boat, we had deck-mounted foot buttons, but Ganesh has a hand-held controller and cord. As I started taking in the chain, Carolyn hoisted herself out of the cockpit and asked, “What the hell are you doing up there?” I resisted the urge to snap back, “Your job!” Carolyn approached, her headlamp bobbing. “Don’t shine that damn thing in my eyes,” I said through gritted teeth. I needed coffee, some meditation — perhaps Prozac. There was a tearing sound, and the windlass shut off. I re-punched the switch. Nothing. I was bewildered until Carolyn approached, making sure the beam of her headlamp was focused on the deck. It revealed that I’d sucked the remotecontrol cord into the chain gypsy. It had rolled up and torn itself out of the windlass case. I could fix it. I had a spare cord and control, but it would take time — and daylight. To make the repair, we’d have to dump our scope back out and wait until dawn. We’d be lucky to get away before noon. Damn it! “I can’t fix it in the dark,” I said. “I’ll let out the rode to 5-to-1 and wait for the sun.”


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O N WA T C H

I was feeling particularly lacking. So I waited until we were both sipping our rich cappuccinos, and said as calmly as I could, “Sorry.” hard for me to make a tuna fish sandwich underway; Carolyn churns out major meals without comment. And she always adds a little something extra — a special flair, a dash of unexpected excellence. Every time she’s ducked below for the last 45 years, she’s automatically asked me, “Can I get you anything?” I, on the other hand, occasionally forget to do so when heading for the saloon. (By “occasionally,” I mean 95 percent of the time.) Carolyn cans. She cooks. She kneads her bread. And yet she is ever ready to cease everything at the drop of a hat to take part in any cockamamie shore scheme I might dream up. I was feeling particularly lacking. So I waited until we were both sipping our rich cappuccinos, and said as calmly as I could, “Sorry.” “For what?” “For being such a lout.” She laughed. “Where do you get goofy words like that?” she asked. “Do you have a special

writer’s thesaurus for male apologizers?” She wasn’t letting me off the hook lightly, not that I deserved to be. “Look,” I said, “I’m sorry. Not only did I interfere on the foredeck, I screwed up while doing so. And it could have been worse. I lost my concentration on my vessel’s placement. I should have stayed at my helm. That’s my job. So the skipper owes you an apology, and I apologize.” “What about the husband?” “OK,” I sighed. “That’s a given. So I need to be punished, to be made to suffer. Name the sentence.” “Seriously?” “Sure,” I said, “What’ll it be? Dia-

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monds? A new Gucci ditty bag? TopSider high heels? Something from the new Galley Slave line at Victoria’s Secret?” “How about an all-afternoon kayak trip in Langkawi?” she asked. “We could see the mud skippers, those walking fish. We’ll bring a picnic lunch and leave all our cares and woes at home.” “Four hours in a kayak,” I said. “That’s all you want? I don’t deserve you, Carolyn.” “You got that right,” she replied. Cap’n Fatty is atoning for his wrongs as the Goodlanders enjoy Southeast Asia.

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“Fine,” she said, looking me directly in the eye. “Should I make us some coffee, or would you prefer to burn down the galley yourself?” My hands were on my hips. I bit my lip. I took a deep breath. Then I deliberately turned away from her. She went below. It was not my finest hour. We managed to get back underway by 1100. Neither of us was particularly talkative. I left her alone to do her job as we raised anchor, which was dead-easy now that we had light. I was feeling bad and holding it in. Lunch was, as usual, the highlight of our cruising day. With our autopilot steering, Ganesh threaded her way through the endless stream of freighters on her port side and the entire fishing fleet of Malaysia to starboard. We had a fresh salad, fresh bread, and black pepper chicken with jasmine rice. Ah, delicious! “Wait,” Carolyn said with a twinkle in her eye. “There’s more.” She’d made banana flambé, passing the two hot plates out the hatch while still aflame. This made me feel even worse. It’s

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Point of Vie w It is always a thrill to cross the paths of the seafaring legends, as the historical perspective enriches our cr uising. We can but marvel at their skill and bravery.

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A L V A H

S I M O N

ADMIRAL of the OCEAN SEA

A

fter 30 years of patiently suffering my proclivity for such unnecessary hardships as a leisurely winter cruise around Cape Horn, or icing into the high Arctic wilderness, my wife, Diana, asked that once — just once — we take a normal holiday. Her vision was clear. This would be tourism as opposed to adventure, with no hull-thumping gales, charging polar bears or violent revolutions. Whatever our chosen destination, we must fly there, not sail. And we would stay in hotels — on land, of all places! For 3,000 years sailors have ventured out from the waters of Cadiz, the oldest city on the Iberian Peninsula, ever expanding our knowledge of the world. Reluctantly, out of a sense of fairness, I acquiesced. We chose Spain. In 12 hours we flew across an ocean it had once taken us two months to sail. Years earlier I stood on the beach in the Philippines where It felt like cheating. Madrid seemed mighty far from the sea. But, Ferdinand Magellan was murdered. Had he lived, he would have as we traveled south and west from there toward the coast, a sea been the first man known to circumnavigate the globe. As it turned breeze began to stir up the salt in my blood and brain. out, that honor went to his cabin slave, Enrique de Malacca. In the ancient city of Seville, we found a cathedral dripping Magellan made his journey on a cumbersome vessel, crewed by with the riches so brutally extracted from the New World. murderous mutineers driven by dark superstitions and deterred by In an ornate tomb lay the hallowed remains of Don Cristobal drawings on his primitive charts that warned, “Beyond Here Thar Columbus, the Admiral of the Ocean Sea, ultimately one of the Be Monsters.” Think what skill, bravery and determination such a most influential, even if not skilled, sailors and navigators in voyage into the unknown must have demanded. human history. On another occasion I stood on the beach in Hawaii where This may not sound awfully exciting unless you put it in the perhaps the world’s greatest seaman and explorer, Capt. James context of a bird watcher finally spotting her lilac-breasted roller, Cook, was slain. Unlike Magellan, Cook’s death did not cut short or a big-game hunter completing his quest for the Big Five. his maritime achievements, for he had already explored more of EXPLORERS OF NOTE Countless navigators over the ages contributed, one perilous voyage at a time, to our understanding of the waters we sail.

1. British cartographer Capt. James Cook was the first to chart much of the Pacific Ocean, including Australia, New Zealand and the Hawaiian Islands.

2. Christopher Columbus made four transatlantic voyages to the New World, initiating European colonization of the Americas and the Caribbean.

3. Ferdinand Magellan sailed west from Europe through the Atlantic and Pacific. The expedition, the world’s first circumnavigation, was completed after his death.

DIANA SIMON (TOP); ISTOCK

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the globe than any man in history before that tragic day. Even today, with our impregnable hulls, computerized weather forecasting and GPS, few dare venture into the waters that Cook not only sailed but meticulously surveyed. I’ve stood on the very hill in Panama’s jungle where Spanish explorer Vasco Núñez Balboa caught the “first” glimpse of the mighty Pacific Ocean. Diana and I have probed the waters that Henry Hudson mistakenly thought would lead him to the Northwest Passage and the riches of the Spice Islands. Vasco da Gama, Matthew Flinders, George Vancouver, William Dampier, Vitus Bering, John Cabot, Abel Tasman, Bartolomeu Dias — the litany of seafaring legends seems to have faded into mere historical footnotes, save the few who were fortunate enough to have had a cape or island named after them. But it is always a thrill to

The sea keeps its secrets. The great seafarers of yesteryear, especially those who relied solely on oral tradition, left nothing behind them but an ephemeral wake.

ALVAH SIMON

cross their paths, so to speak, as the historical perspective enriches our cruising. But to get to the roots of our sailing heritage, Diana and I had to go much further back than the European Age of Discovery. We drove down to Cadiz, founded nearly 3,000 years ago by the earliest of the great sailors, the Phoenicians. While looking out over those ancient parapets, I wondered how many sailors over the millennia, like Columbus, had started their voyages from these very waters, probing south to the great capes of Africa, west to the Grand Banks, and beyond. Columbus returned to fame and fortune, but how many stories will forever be muted by misfortune and shrouded in mystery? On With solemn reverence we visited Kealakekua land our famous historical Bay on the island of paths, such as the Appian Way, Hawaii, where perhaps are etched into the terrain, the greatest explorer of all creating a physical connectime, Capt. James Cook, tion with the past. But the sea was murdered in 1779 keeps its secrets. The great sea(top). In the Cathedral farers of yesteryear, especially of Seville, we payed our those like the Polynesians, who respects at the hallowed relied solely on oral tradition, tomb of Don Cristobal left nothing behind them but Columbus, Admiral of the an ephemeral wake. Ocean Sea (above). Still, we can but marvel at their skill and bravery, and appreciate the tortuous yet incremental progress that each perilous voyage contributed to the knowledge of our planet and the sophistication of our vessels today. Alvah Simon is a CW contributing editor and author of North to the Night. He and his wife, Diana, are actively cruising the South Pacific on board their 36-foot steel cutter, Roger Henry.


B e c ko n e d b y a A war stor y and s decades earlier in forest attracts W to t h e w i l d a n d re Au c k l a n d Is l a n d s INSET: COURTESY OF THE ALLAN GREEN COLLECTION VICTORIA, AUSTRALIA

St o r y a n d Ph o t o g ra p h s b y Th i e s Ma t z e n


Clearing

ea tale born a subantarctic anderer III m o te .

Wind from a cloudy Southern Ocean sky sweeps Carnley Harbour’s north arm. This deep indentation became a perfect hiding place for the German cargo vessel Erlangen (inset), and the birthplace of an extraordinary sea tale.


Kicki is bundled up against the cold as she climbs into Wanderer III’s cockpit shortly after arriving in Erebus Cove, Ross Harbour.


It hadn’t occurred to me that we might not find the Auckland Islands. With mountaintops that tower more than 2,000 feet, the tightly packed group of eight islands comprising the New Zealand subantarctic archipelago is more than 10 miles wide. They should have been visible from a great distance, particularly to Kicki’s sharp eyes. But for the last 48 hours, my wife had been as seasick as I’d ever seen her. And my degree of misery wasn’t far better. After sitting drenched in the cockpit, hand-steering Wanderer III for the better part of two days, covering some 220 nautical miles toward a sliver of narrow, wild coast, I craved some vital support. “I need your eyes!” I called into the black hole of a cabin, sliding open the hatch. I was mumbling at this point: “Can’t see it. Our location is all iffy. If this continues, we might have to turn back.” I could make out nothing in the galedriven mist. The log that trailed from our stern put us about 10 miles off Auckland Island, the largest in the group. Had we oversailed our landfall? In order not to run into it, we had been heaved to for an afternoon and a night. Now in daylight, we inched forward once more, under storm jib and reefed main, hard on the wind. It had been wet ever since we headed south from Stewart Island’s unsung South Cape, the planet’s southernmost save for Cape Horn. It was the ocean shelf between the cape and our position that was Kicki’s undoing. Battered by Force 8 winds, the nearly 10,000-foot-deep Southern Ocean jumps this 650-foot shallow hurdle with attitude. We never saw the Snares Islands, which lay along our route, though we must have been close. We never saw any of the brightly lit squid boats that frequent these waters, either. The bad weather hid them. But immediately around us, life teemed. This


shelf is a huge dinner plate: Wherever I looked, I saw feeding birds — but nothing else as Wanderer crept south-southwest. It took ages for Kicki, dressed in her foul-weather gear, to appear in my wet realm of doubt: Where were we? Where was Auckland Island’s north coast? I didn’t want to overshoot the island and end up along its western side. There, a history rich in disasters lingered. Many ships have gone down along that inescapable 20-mile crescent of 2,000-foot-high cliffs stretching north to south. It is an unsurvivable wall if one is driven into it by westerly storms. Facing 40-knot winds, I had time and reason enough to form misgivings about the wisdom — and luck — required for finding this goddamn place. At last, Kicki crawled over the washboard for only the second time on the trip, passing from a black hole into a wet hole: our cockpit. And she was more determined to reach our landfall than I was. “No way. That’s just not on,” Kicki said, picking up on my already forgotten mumblings. At first I didn’t grasp her meaning; I was a bit surprised at how sharp she seemed, considering her mal de mer. “Back to Stewart Island without getting to the Aucklands at all? I’m not suffering for that.” Then she took up her position at the mast, her small frame harnessed safely to the boat but rising and falling with the waves.

Of course I did. Mainly that some ironwood trees felled on the Auckland Islands stood at the core of an incredible tale. “Well, those trees … ” said Bruno, as he launched into a gripping story that held me spellbound an entire afternoon. In the maritime world, this extraordinary account of the imaginative escape of the 6,100-ton German merchant ship Erlangen, at the onset of World War II, is without equal. I never knew that Bruno’s rich life had been shaped by it, one of the greatest sea stories of all time. Even Hollywood thought it worth a film, The Sea Chase, with John Wayne. But Bruno’s detailed narration was the better thriller. Erlangen’s early-morning arrival at the Auckland Islands, with no chart in a vicious storm and with nowhere else to go, must have been as iffy as our approach. On August 31, 1939, a day before the outbreak

The

incubation period for my Auckland Islands dreams had been longer than for any other destination — well over a dozen years. Once the islands appeared on my mental horizon, they remained there, in sight yet out of reach. Our first attempt at reaching them, in 1995, ended in the vicinity of the Snares Islands in the face of a southerly gale. The storm and the already advanced summer made us turn around. Attempt number two saw Wanderer and us stuck high and dry in a New Zealand boatyard that proved to have considerable suction; Smith’s Reef, we called it. We had a Department of Conservation-approved visitor permit in our pockets, but no vessel in the water. The hard times on the hard carried on, so we never got going. And now, this third approach? It got underway by surprise. By pure chance I had mentioned the Auckland Islands to my uncle Bruno, the only Cape Horner in our family, a man rich in seafaring lore. Bruno was then far into his 80s. “Where to? The Auckland Islands?” He made sure he had heard right. “Then you must know of the Erlangen Clearing.”

Clockwise from top: Hooker sea lions are at home both in the sea and amid the trees. To reach the treeless highlands, one has to first climb through dense forests. In the austral summer, Kicki spends as much time as possible in the cockpit. Wanderer III is surrounded by sooty shearwaters on a calm day in Carnley Harbour.

of World War II, Capt. Alfred Grams idled off Perpendicular Point, in the south of the group. The most important information he’d been able to extract from his pilot book was that nobody lived in the Aucklands. The day before, with the world still at peace but holding its breath, the captain had shared breakfast and German


B E C KO N E D B Y A C L E A R I N G

The incubation period for my Au c k l a n d Is l a n d s d re a m s h a d been longer than for any other d e s t i n a t i o n — w e l l o ve r a d o z e n ye a rs .


T h e s e a p ro ve d h a rd g o i n g ; w a te r f i l l e d t h e c o c k p i t t i m e a n d t i m e a g a i n . To t h e l i m i t s o f t h e horizon, nothing solid co u l d b e s e e n .


B E C KO N E D B Y A C L E A R I N G

Waterfall Inlet at the southeastern end of the Aucklands is one of the best harbors in the chain (above). Wanderer III sails under a layer of fog in the protected waters of Ross Harbour (far left). Typical Kiwi hiking fashion includes shorts, worn-out polypropylene long underwear, tough socks and hiking boots (left) .

beer with the New Zealand harbor pilot in Dunedin. With a handful of Germans and 50 Chinese as crew, Erlangen had left the port nearly empty, without much food and with just 150 tons of coal — enough for a maximum of five days steaming. The New Zealanders were confident that Erlangen would be their first war prize. With so little coal, she couldn’t reach anywhere the Brits or French were not. Escape was impossible. She would soon be impounded. Grams and his crew had cleared for a coal port in Australia and were watched from ashore, steaming north. Then, under cover of darkness, with the portholes blackened and ship lights switched off, they swung around and headed south. Soon Erlangen became a maritime riddle. She hadn’t been seen anywhere. Despite her reduced range due to her limited supply of coal, she had simply vanished. Public imagination ran wild and searches were launched. But nobody thought that the boat would be hidden 12 miles deep within the Auckland Islands’ natural Carnley Harbour. Erlangen was sitting in mud, staging for her much more daring escape. Grams hadn’t found much food ashore; instead he discovered the equivalent of gold in the form of a hardwood called rata. Three tons of rata equaled one ton of coal. To reach the neutral safety of Chile under the steam of her engines, Erlangen needed to carry at least 400 tons. Wielding self-made saws, Grams’ men cut what they could, creating the Erlangen Clearing. The steam winches worked for weeks. Meanwhile, thanks to some of the crew’s expertise in big-ship sailing, they produced two masts and a bulging square rig. Protected by terrible weather, Grams counted the tons of wood that piled up each day, and on his luck. Carnley Harbour was a perfect hiding place for Erlangen. The New Zealanders who searched the Auckland Islands never found her, and the crew eventually escaped by burning rata and skillfully employing their sails. In a widely acclaimed feat of seamanship, they made it across the Southern Ocean to the safety of Chile’s Puerto Montt. At that time, my uncle Bruno was 19 years young and living in Valparaiso, Chile. He had crewed aboard the four-masted bark Priwall, the fastest-ever tall ship to double Cape Horn, from 50 south around to 50 south, east to west. Afterward he found himself idling away on Priwall at anchor in Valparaiso. It was then that Erlangen crossed his path, in need of crew to continue her legendary voyage. Asked if he would muscle coal for Erlangen on a secretive trip back around Cape Horn and into the Atlantic, he signed on for the second dramatic chapter of the escape, of

which all that remains is a tale and those stumps I hoped to find. “They cleared the trees. Their stumps must still be there,” he hinted, “probably overgrown.” Ever since my afternoon with Uncle Bruno, I had wanted to find those stumps and sit on them — in a dripping, windy place where yellow-eyed penguins incubate their eggs under trees and sea lions mate in the forest. After a year spent at Stewart Island, we decided it was time to try for the Aucklands again. In compliance with our permit, we had Wanderer’s underwater hull checked for an invasive algae. It’s a Department of Conservation biosecurity measure to prevent the algae from reaching farther south. With no rats on board, and no mice, cats nor pigs, we were cleared for departure. On our last night in Stewart Island’s Thule Bay, morepork owls called from the three islands with beautiful names — Hope, Faith and Charity — that shelter the anchorage.

A

little hope, faith and charity (along with the shelter those islands provided) would have been very welcome on our voyage south. The sea proved hard going; water filled the cockpit time and time again. To the limits of the horizon, nothing solid could be seen. Perched at the mast, Kicki suddenly turned her neck, her right arm raised. “There. See it?” She waved at something beyond my visual reach. An outline. “Where?” I asked. “There?” Propped up by her conviction, I suddenly saw it too — or thought I did. Briefly I hovered between doubt and delight, though I never burst into relief. There was nothing there: What we’d spotted were yearnedfor contours, born of wishful minds. One hour disappeared, then another. How thick was the mist? I wondered. How far could my vision penetrate it? We must be close to the island, I thought. But in waters like these, how close would be too close? I glimpsed the minutest fragments of a waterlogged source of light and convinced myself it was the sun. Chased by clouds, even the slight fragments of light dissolved in the eastern sky. We could only hope our luck would hold and at some point bring us true sunlight, as well as a decent horizon on which to get a fix on our location. To entice it, I monitored the feeblest appearances of light hiding behind the wall of gray. On the rare occasion the sun tentatively showed itself, its rim was frayed by clouds; the horizon could only be guessed at, and it jumped about, a creation of my imagination when I lifted the sextant and attempted the first sun-sight of the trip.


Auckland Islands Enderby Island Port Ross Auckland Island

Da

te

lin

e

Figure of Eight Island

Adams Island

Carnley Harbour

Auckland Islands

Nautical Miles 0

170° E

whose perfectly leveled cut strangely contrasted with the chaotic growth around it. I found other leveled tree stumps closer to the shore. From each one I took bearings: Across the northern arm of Carnley Harbour, over Wanderer III and Figure of Eight Island, toward the Musgrave Peninsula. From each stump, Figure of

50° S

160° E

150

300

Kicki and Thies Matzen and Wanderer III are currently in the Falkland Islands.

Kicki takes a streamside break from the challenging hiking in the dense rata forest (above). The inaccessible west coast of the Aucklands has long been dreaded by sailors. Even in moderate winds, its waterfalls blow backward (opposite).

MAP BY SHANNON CAIN TUMINO

South Cape

rn

at

ion

al

North Arm Musgrave Peninsula

Eight Island blocked the direct view to the entrance of this out-of-the-way bay. I understood what these various perspectives told me, why the Kiwis searching for Erlangen in the early days of war missed her entirely. I crawled out of the nearly impassable clearing and back to the beach. There the wind celebrated our discovery with atypical nonattendance. It was so still I could hear the swooping of circling sooty shearwater flocks. In front of me the water was a mirror-smooth zoo of paddling, diving and flying neighbors. Wherever my head turned, something moved and made sounds, except for the broken rata branches that had worked themselves into the shoreline. I picked some up, carSOUTH ried them home and PA C I F I C stoked the woodstove 40° S on Wanderer. There they crackled — in as strange NEW a sound, I thought, as ZEALAND the Mandarin of 50 Dunedin Chinese sailors who once Stewart Island warmed themselves in The Snares this same distant place. te

Once

we sighted land, we closed in on Enderby Island, only to be greeted by an abrupt increase in wind upon entering the 4-mile-deep Port Ross. It was a battle of many hours, under storm jib and deeply reefed main, to tack toward Erebus Cove. There the 45-pound CQR wouldn’t hold, and we had to switch to our heavier chain. But as if the blow had simply wanted to remind us of where we were, it died away. Only then did we notice groups of pintado petrels bathing innocently near the shore, next to blooming rata trees, as if on a summer vacation. The next day’s arrival was the slowest in my history of sailing. We woke late, ate pancakes and slept again. There was no rush now that we’d arrived. We had two months to discover impenetrable dwarf forests. In other woods on the islands, songbirds accompanied our every step, hopping close by from branch to branch. Various albatrosses — shy, sooty, royal and wandering — bred on grassy plateaus. Along the precipitous west coast cliffs, waterfalls blew upward, defying gravity so their waters never reached the sea. We found penguins deep in the woods, along with the love nests of “hookers,” as the local sea lions are called. We watched our ensign, the Dannebrog, or Danish national flag, flog itself to half size thanks to two severe storms. Eventually we sailed deeper into the chronically overcast Carnley Harbour, all the way into its north arm, where we anchored in 13 feet over mud, as Erlangen had long before us. Surrounded by a wooded shoreline, we couldn’t readily see where we might find the Erlangen Clearing. Days passed, in fact, before we discovered it. It was absolutely not, as I’d imagined, in the open

grassy space at the shallow bay’s end. No, we looked there. Then one afternoon Kicki approached me from behind and bent over my left shoulder with a big smile. “Guess what?” she asked. She had found the remnants of the rata trees. I followed her lead, and then I recognized tree stumps scattered across a hillside that I found difficult to imagine as a clearing. The impenetrability of the second-growth forest made a mockery of the name. Everything was overgrown. In the Erlangen Clearing it was easier to crawl than to walk. And it was easier yet to sit and just take it in. In one of the world’s most southern forests, I chose a weathered stump

In

Again and again the instrument got drenched. To dry the mirrors, I repeatedly handed it to Kicki, who had gone below. I tried perhaps a dozen times, and then one sight finally felt right. I rushed below to work it out. Our perpendicular line of position was quickly drawn on the chart; it cut directly through the island’s north shore. We were somewhere on that line. The single sight confirmed that we were northwest of the island. I trusted it. I had to. There was no other option. Even though we still could not see land, we turned Wanderer and eased the sheets. It was oh so easy to ride the waves with the wind from astern. Within only half an hour, the Aucklands’ north cape presented itself out of the eternal haze. Only 3 miles away, we saw it at last.


K i c k i a p p ro a c h e d m e f ro m b e h i n d a n d b e n t o ve r m y l e f t shoulder with a big smile. “Guess w h a t ? � s h e a s ke d . S h e h a d f o u n d t h e re m n a n t s o f t h e ra t a t re e s .


Heeding

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T

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E •

CALL B L U E WAT E R

SAILORS

H AV E

LONG

BEEN

AT T R AC T E D T O B R A S D ’ O R L A K E , B U T A C H A R T E R VAC AT I O N TO C A N A DA’ S I N L A N D S E A M A K E S THE GETTING THERE OH SO MUCH EASIER.

50 march 2016

St or y by Ma rk Pillsbur y, Photog ra p h s b y Bob Gr i eser Sailing CBI owner Paul Jamieson is on a mission to bring as many sailors as he can to Cape Breton’s Bras d’Or Lake.


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I

t’s somehow fitting that our sailing vacation last summer, which started and ended across the cove from American inventor Alexander Graham Bell’s sum-

mer home in Baddeck, Nova Scotia, actually sprang, out of the blue, from a phone call. § The caller was Paul Jamieson, owner of the fledgling Cape Breton Island charter company Sailing CBI. He got right to the point: Wouldn’t I like to find out what Bras d’Or Lake was all

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about? His proposal was simple enough: Join

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him aboard his new Alpha 42 catamaran, Cape Bretoner I, for a weeklong spin around Canada’s inland sea. He promised warm water, sunny days, an abundance of eagles, little or no fog and nearly 800 miles of mostly empty coastline. Could I say no? Well, no. For as long as I’ve read sea stories about the Canadian Maritimes, Bras d’Or Lake (or “Lakes,” as it’s sometimes called) has been on my to-do-someday list. I’d always thought that eventually I’d get there as most sailors do: by setting off from the coast of Maine, weathering the notorious Down East fog and the infamous tides of the Bay of Fundy, and then picking my way along Nova Scotia’s southern coast to St. Peters Inlet and the lock and canal that comprise the lake’s southern entrance. Or perhaps, like others, I’d choose to stop in Bras d’Or on my way back from Newfoundland or Labrador. From that direction, I’d sail in through the Great Bras d’Or Channel, a natural opening at the eastern tip of Cape Breton Island, and thereby find respite from the rough North Atlantic as well as save myself a few miles The view overlooking the popular locals beach at Marble Mountain is absolutely stunning (right). Aboard Cape Bretoner I (opposite), there’s plenty of room for charterers to relax. A week aboard is far too short to sample Bras d’Or Lake’s many nooks and crannies.

A CIRCLE

THROUGH HISTORY

A visit to Cape Breton Island wouldn’t be complete without a drive around the 180-mile Cabot Trail, a two-lane highway that was built in the 1930s and follows the island’s rugged, mountainous coast. Our first stop after leaving Baddeck on a clockwise tour of the trail was the Glenora Distillery and Inn, a Cape

Breton landmark and the only source of single-malt whisky in North America. I can personally attest that a bottle of their 15-year-old is quite tasty when sampled as a sundowner. The distillery is not technically a part of the trail, but it’s well worth the detour. Continuing on, we visited the small harbor village of

Inverness, once a coal town where local miners were renowned for their skill at digging tunnels miles out under the Atlantic. Today most of the digging is done to develop facilities for the newly opened Cabot Links. The challenging seaside course and its sister course, Cabot Cliffs, are already garnering world-class


HEEDING THE CALL

THE ISLAND’S PRESENT, AFTER ALL, IS ENTWINED W I T H A PA S T S T I L L V E R Y M U C H A L I V E I N T H E TRADITIONS OF THE FIRST NATION MI’KMAQ AND

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FRENCH AND SCOTTISH SETTLERS.

on the way back to New England. But instead, this past July, my wife, Sue, and I climbed into our car in Boston on the last Saturday of the month and headed north to Portland, Maine, where we hitched a ride on the ferry that sails overnight to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. At 0800 Atlantic Standard Time, we landed, cleared customs and then drove across the length of mainland Nova Scotia, a trip that was lovely all in itself. The highway took us over rolling hills and through evergreen forests. The few towns we passed were mostly small, though we did stop for lunch in colorful Lunenburg to tour the waterfront, then skirted busy Halifax before coming eventually to the Strait of Canso and the causeway to Cape Breton Island. It was late afternoon when we at last arrived in Baddeck and caught up with California marine photographer Bob Grieser. He’d flown into Sydney, Cape Breton’s only city, located about 90 minutes away, and was waiting for us at the rustic Lynnwood Inn, where we began and ended our visit. Before meeting our hosts, Paul and his wife, Donna, for dinner,

acclaim. With several other courses nearby, the island is Former newsman Ian McNeil reflects on Cape Breton’s rich history during a tour of Highlands Links golf course (far left). The snug harbor at Inverness provides shelter for the fisherman and occasional cruiser (left).

a mecca for golfers. Even a decidedly bad hacker like me couldn’t help but be wowed by the views we encountered when we borrowed a cart and took a ride around the 18 holes at the Highlands Links golf course, in Ingonish, where we spent the night at the Keltic Lodge. The lodge itself is well worth a visit. We ate dinner in

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A weathered boathouse sits by the entrance to Maskells Harbour (above), a popular spot where local sailors gather for raft-ups (opposite). Out on the big lake, a schooner drifts along, waiting for the breeze to build (above right).

PASSING THE LIGHTHOUSE ON KIDSTON ISLAND, WE SET SAIL AND ENJOYED THE FEEL OF THE BIG CAT AS

Sue and I took a stroll through town to the harbor, a couple of streets away. With a year-round population of about 800, Baddeck is a bustling community in the summer. Though it was unusually cold the day we arrived, there were still plenty of tourists about. At the yacht club, the parking lot was packed, in part thanks to families arriving for the start of the town’s junior sailing regatta. Over dinner, the first order of business was a change in plans. Weather had delayed the crew delivering Cape Bretoner from the yard in New York where she’d been built. So rather than setting off under sail the next morning, we went to Plan B: a driving tour of the Cabot Trail (see “A Circle Through History,” page 52), which we had planned to save for last. It was the first of several twists and turns this little adventure would take — and a fortuitous one, it turns out, because it gave us a better appreciation of the many historical facets in play on Cape Breton. The island’s present, after all, is entwined with a past still very much alive in the traditions of the First Nation Mi’kmaq, and of the French and Scottish settlers who came first to work the land and later to mine it of its valuable natural resources. By the time we returned to town a day and a half later, we found the gleaming white Cape Bretoner waiting for us dockside at Baddeck Marine. It was a hectic scene as Paul’s daughter, Tracy, and her partner, Jamie, the boat’s skipper, tidied up.

the formal dining room that overlooks the inn’s seaside grounds, and later returned to hear Cape Breton folk legend Buddy MacDonald perform. On our tour of the trail, we were joined by former radio newsman and Canadian historian Ian McNeil. History abounds across Cape Breton, and learning about the First

Nation Mi’kmaqs, along with the French and Scottish settlers, is as much a part of the journey as the astounding scenery you pass by. The Cabot Trail winds through several small and resilient fishing villages and a few bigger communities, such as Chéticamp, where a remarkable pipe organ sits in

IT GAINED MOMENTUM IN A FRESH 12-KNOT BREEZE.

We helped out where we could, and soon had the delivery gear off and our bags aboard. Though heavy gray clouds to the south threatened rain, it was time to go sailing. The vast Bras d’Or Lake is cut nearly in two by a peninsula; its two main bodies of water are known as the Big Lake and Little Lake, and they’re connected at Barra Strait, where a bascule bridge spans the divide. Baddeck Harbour is nestled along the Little Lake’s northern shore, and its mooring field just off the marina is well protected by Kidston Island, at the end of which sits the town’s iconic lighthouse. Passing it, we set sails and enjoyed the feel of the big cat as it gained momentum in a fresh 12-knot breeze. As we sailed, Paul pointed out the Bell family’s summer estate, Beinn Bhreagh, and the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site and its museum, on the hill above town behind us. Over the course of our two days on the Cabot Trail, we’d learned that Cape Bretoners are proud of their surroundings, and that pride extends, quite naturally, to the waterfront.

the choir loft of Sacred Heart Church. There are plenty of places to stop and grab a bite or a souvenir, but to me, the wilderness — ocean to one side and steep, craggy mountains to the other — is the real attraction. On the two days we were there, the roadway teemed with motorcycles, and we saw

bicyclists everywhere along the steep hills and hairpin turns that brought us back to Baddeck. Given more time, it would have been interesting to explore the many hiking trails and side roads off the Cabot Trail — more than enough reason to plan a return visit sometime soon.


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Clockwise from top left: A catered dinner is a chance to meet family and friends of the Jamiesons, who all grew up around the lake. Sailing conditions are perfect for the start of Baddeck Race Week. A sculpture of Alexander Graham Bell and his wife, Mabel, looks over the harbor in Baddeck. Cape Bretoner cruises through Barra Strait en route to the Big Lake.

Well out in the bay, we bore off and ran west along St. Patricks Channel, toward our evening’s destination, Deep Cove, which lies a mile or so up the Washabuck River. A misty rain fell as we made our way upstream, the heavily wooded shore narrowing as we progressed. As we turned into the cove, we spotted an eagle nest at the entrance, and once inside, we shared the near-perfect hurricane hole with just one other boat. That night, after we tucked ourselves into the saloon to escape the voracious mosquitoes, we savored Donna’s homemade fish chowder and liberally toasted the start of our voyage with good 15-year-old whisky from the nearby Glenora Distillery, one of the stops along our motor tour. The next morning, all went well until it didn’t. After an early

start, we left the river and crossed back to the northern side of the lake, stopping briefly (we thought) at the Jamiesons’ waterfront home so their daughter could join us. While Jamie went ashore to retrieve her, Paul and I played with the twin throttles to test out the Alpha’s close-quarters maneuverability. With one engine in reverse and the other in forward, we expected to spin on a dime — but didn’t. Alas, we soon learned that one of the Alpha’s props had somehow gone missing. Time, then, for Plan C. While Paul and Jamie searched for a replacement screw, the rest of us — Sue, Donna, Tracy, Bob and I — made the most of clear skies and much warmer temperatures than the previous day. Lounging on the now-moored catamaran, we thoroughly savored a hot summer day on the lake,


HEEDING THE CALL

shipped off to the paper and lumber mills. I could occasionally jumping overboard for a dip. easily spend a summer gunkholing there, I thought Later, with it apparent that no miracle prop was — if I just had a boat and the time. about to appear, Paul declared that the show must I F YO U From there, it was on to Marble Mountain, a go on, and so, using the other engine, we motored once-bustling mining community that’s now home to an anchorage farther down the lake. to about 50 year-round residents and a couple hunIn the morning, we continued our voyage to the Cape Breton Island is dred more summer visitors. The quarry that gave lake’s end and the small village of Whycocomagh. easily reached by ferry, the town its name closed in the early 20th century, We puttered past the gypsum mine, whose docks car or plane, with airbut recently there’s been a local effort to restore and metal buildings can be seen from miles off, and port facilities in both Halifax and Sydney. For some of its abandoned buildings. An old Odd which brings large freighters up the narrow chanAmerican visitors, the Fellows Lodge has been turned into the Marble nel we now found ourselves navigating. At Little present Canadian dolMountain Community Centre, which provides Narrows, we timed our passage into Whycocomagh lar exchange rate can residents with Wi-Fi access and a place to meet Bay so we wouldn’t interfere with the cable-drawn make travel there quite and play darts throughout the year. ferry that passes back and forth between the two affordable. The Marble Mountain Wharf Preservation points of land. As we cruised along, the occasional The sailing season on Bras d’Or Lake begins Society maintains the public pier and the nearby cottage could be spotted along either shore, but we in May and lasts into beach, a favorite with locals. From the hill above, saw more eagles than signs of people. the fall. Expect sumwe watched people and dogs swim between the That night, we welcomed guests and a chef mer temperatures in the white sand and boats anchored just offaboard for a dinner cruise back up the shore. What a view of sun-splashed West lake and through Baddeck Harbour. 62° W 60° W Bay, and of the lakeshore that stretches as Joining us was Ian McNeil, a former radio far as the eye can see. On another day, we journalist who’d accompanied us on our CAPE BRETON ISLAND might have anchored and gone swimming Cabot Trail sojourn. He and the others PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND too, but we were on a schedule and the on board told lively stories of growing up 46° N clock was ticking. in Baddeck surrounded by the lake. They On the way back to Barra Strait, were an entertaining bunch, and it was a we tucked into the small entrance at treat to spend some time with them. We NOVA SCOTIA Little Harbor and had lunch at the ended the day at Bras d’Or Yacht Club, Nautical Miles 0 40 Smokehouse, a German restaurant that where the bar was abuzz with talk about 20 CAPE BRETON ISLAND operates in a rustic log house tucked up Sunday’s Sail Past, the traditional start to ATLANTIC OCEAN along the shore. Baddeck Race Week. Gulf of St. Lawrence Back out on the lake, the long rays of We planned to join the festivities, Cabot Trail Ingonish the late-day sun lit up the white gypsum of course, but first, we had the Big Lake Englishtown Chéticamp CAPE cliffs off to the east. Sunset came as we to see. BRETON Great Bras ISLAND crossed back into the Little Lake, and d’Or Channel Inverness darkness fell as we picked our way back Our route toward Barra Strait was Baddeck Little Whycocomagh Narrows into Maskells. This time, a large raft-up of met with a stiff breeze and steep waves Beinn Bhreah Marble sailboats filled the center of the harbor. that hit us right on the nose. In those Mountain We anchored nearby, and sure enough, conditions, with just the single engine, Bras Maskells Barra before long, we had a crowd on board. In Cape Bretoner was working hard to keep d’Or Lake Harbour Strait St. Peters Cape Breton, no matter where we went, it the speedo at 5 knots. Washabuck River seemed as though everyone knew everyIt was time for Plan D. Rather than one else, and to a person, everyone was bucking wind and current all the way to 70s, but go prepared for curious about the new catamaran in town. the bridge, we followed the heavily wooded and both warmer and colder Sunday morning was breezy. With more guests rocky shore into Maskells Harbour, where Bell and extremes. Unlike in many aboard, we tucked in a reef before Cape Bretoner his cohorts once gathered to sow the seeds for the areas of Maine or the joined the hundred or so vessels of all description Cruising Club of America. Behind Gillis Point, Maritimes, fog is not generally an issue once in that sailed, motored and paddled past the Bras the water turned to glass and the wind dropped to Bras d’Or Lake. d’Or Yacht Club’s dock. a whisper. We spent the next few hours searching Besides the usual What a party followed. A Celtic band played the surrounding steep hills with binoculars, on the navigation charts, saillively tunes as the club swelled with members and lookout for whatever wildlife we might find. ors will want to pick up guests. I’m not sure I ever encountered a friendLate in the afternoon, we checked in by radio as much local informalier crowd. with the bridge tender and were told conditions tion as possible. A good clearinghouse of charts We finished off our Bras d’Or adventure on had improved in Barra Strait, so we hauled up the and guides can be found Monday aboard Paul’s other boat, a C&C 33. Both hook and made a beeline for the Big Lake. Once we online at Cruising Cape he and the boat were veterans of many a Baddeck were there, the breeze clocked around, and we were Breton (cruising-capeRace Week. The sailing, like the weather, was fanable to kill the engine and reach our way to our desbreton.info). tastic, and who cares how we did — we had a ball. tination for the night, an anchorage off a dock at Crewed charters And then, all too soon, our car was packed, and the home of one of Paul’s friends, in an area of the aboard the Alpha 42 Cape Bretoner I can be Sue and I, having said our goodbyes, were headed lake called the Boom. arranged with Sailing home. Lucky to have had the opportunity to visit, I couldn’t help but be intrigued when I looked at CBI (sailingcbi.com). I thought at first that I could scratch Bras d’Or it on the chart: We were amid countless inlets, bays Several options, ranging Lake off my list of destinations to sail to someday. and islands cut off from the rest of the lake by a from daysails to weekI was wrong. Our visit only moved it to the top. series of islands and outcroppings of the shoreline. long trips, are available. The Boom got its name back in the days when logMark Pillsbury is CW’s editor. gers collected their timber behind log booms to be

MAP BY SHANNON CAIN TUMINO

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A Bo ein g 7 3 7 Is My D i n g h y

E xt r act Ne w Life f ro m Tired S ails

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1 COMMUTER CRUISING 101 S o y o u’ re t h i rs t i n g f o r f a r- f l u n g a d v e n t u re s , b u t s t i l l w i s h t o m a i n t a i n t i e s w i t h w o rk a n d h o m e? H e re’ s h o w t o ex p e r i e n c e t h e b e s t o f b o t h w o rl d s . B Y S P E N C E R S M I T H

V O YA G I N G

SPENCER SMITH

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hen I first started thinking about longdistance cruising, back in the 1960s, there weren’t many role models. Eric and Susan Hiscock were sailing around the world, just the two of them in their modest wooden boats, gone for a few years at a time. They chronicled their travels in books, magazine articles and films, and were soon followed by Lin and Larry Pardey. On the West Coast, countercultural adventurers were building Piver trimarans in their backyards to sail west across the Pacific. But for me, in practical terms, all these voyagers were hard to relate to. These cruisers, or their descendants, are still out there, and you can find them at ocean crossroads like the Azores, the Caribbean and French Polynesia, among many other distant ports. But as voyaging evolved and became more popular, the full-time commitment exemplified by the Hiscocks and Pardeys also changed. Many aspiring cruisers instead opted for a different plan:

For over a decade I’ve been “commuter cruising,” most recently on Scarlet, my Alan Warwick-designed Cardinal 46.

saving some money, waiting until the kids were grown, renting their house and buying a dedicated ocean cruising boat — all the time thinking that in three to five years, they’d sell it, move back ashore and downsize to a smaller boat. I thought that as soon as I had enough money and time, I’d do something similar. But both money and time had a

way of slipping away. And what if you can’t leave your job or friends and family for a few years — or simply don’t want to — but you still have the wanderlust? For the past 10 years, the answer for me has been to commute to my boat, already docked in some faraway destination, two to three times per year. A Boeing 737 is my

dinghy. Most of my trips take around five weeks, including travel time. It’s long enough to sail across an ocean, island-hop in the Caribbean or skip from port to port in the Mediterranean, and yet short enough to maintain ties with home and work. For me, it’s the best of both worlds. It started in 2004, when I was itching to sail across the Atlantic to Europe. I’d cruised much of the West Coast and the East Coast as far north as Labrador, and had made nine passages between New England and Bermuda, mostly delivering boats from the Newport-Bermuda Race. But Bermuda trips take only five to seven days, and I wanted the experience of being away from land long enough to be immersed in the sea, neither leaving nor arriving anyplace too soon, but becoming one with the ocean. I reckoned a five-week journey from Maine to the Azores aboard Nottoway, my Bristol 39, would do the trick. I budgeted a week to get ready, two weeks plus for the crossing, and a week to 10 days

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to see the Azores and prepare the boat to winter in Horta. And it all worked according to plan. Setting off in July, I had a memorable trip and then left the boat at Horta’s Mid Atlantic Yacht Services, returning in August to home and work. That winter I flew back to Horta for some boat work, and to kibitz with the boatyard about the new centerboard being built to replace the one that had broken off halfway across the Atlantic. At that time of year, the Azores is a dramatic and storm-tossed destination with an “edge of the world” feeling. My 10-day vacation was a welcome winter break. Plus, any yacht that gets to the Azores has crossed at least a thousand miles of open ocean, so the assembled fleet represents a floating case study of ocean cruisers. It was cool checking them out. Around that time, I decided not to sail home the following summer, but to keep heading east. So, in the spring of 2005, I returned to Horta with an experienced offshore crew to sail from there to Lisbon, where we would swap the ocean sailors for coastal cruisers. As it turned out, we

QUICK TIPS When it comes to layovers, less fashionable places are always cheaper. Yacht brokers make good boatsitters: They’re always around the docks. Seek advice from cruisers with similar-size boats.

never made it to Lisbon; the northeasterly Portuguese trades were far too strong. Heaved-to less than a hundred miles from Lisbon, we called the waiting coastal crew on the sat phone and told them, midgale, that according to the cruising guide there was a marina to the south, in Lagos, and they should take the train there to rendezvous. The Lagos train station was virtually in the marina, and it all worked like a charm. After arriving in Lagos, we happily cruised the coasts of Portugal

and Spain for a couple of years, twice in the summer with brief working vacations in the intervening winters. We’ve followed a similar routine ever since. After those first winters in Horta and Lagos, in the years that followed I left Nottoway in the Spanish ports of Cadiz, Almeria and Torrevieja, and in Menorca in

the Balearic Islands, where I sold her in 2009. A year later, in Martinique, I purchased Scarlet, an Alan Warwickdesigned Cardinal 46, and we started all over again. Between cruises throughout much of the Caribbean, we left Scarlet for extended periods in Martinique, Antigua and Tortola. Then it was on to

Bermuda and more winters in the Azores and Lagos. From there we harbor-hopped to Tangier, Morocco, and onward to the Balearics, wintering over in Santa Eulalia, Ibiza. The next jump was to Menorca, Corsica and Sardinia, and onward to Gaeta, Italy, near Naples. Between sailing trips, I continued to return to my

FOUR KEY QUESTIONS Successful commuter cruising really comes down to four simple questions: How much? Where do we stop? What makes a good boatyard? Whom do I get for crew? Here are the answers:

You can find good deals on fresh food in local markets, like this one in Martinique.

ONE THE COSTCONSCIOUS COMMUTER Make no mistake: This is an expensive way to go cruising. Three long round-trip plane flights per year, plus the attendant travel expenses, is a substantial outlay. What has been surprising, to me at least, is that in head-to-head comparisons of marina and yard rates in Antigua, West Indies; Martinique; Horta, Azores; Lagos, Portugal; Gaeta, Italy; and the Connecticut shoreline of eastern Long Island Sound, the cost of leaving a boat in the Caribbean or southern Europe is not very different from keeping a boat in a similar facility in the Northeastern United States. An unquantifiable cost

of cruising far from home and outside of the Englishspeaking world is that it is harder to find bargains; plus, useful information about costs and services is difficult to assess. “Local knowledge” can be hard to interpret. What locals might consider a reasonably priced marina in France may seem eye-popping to an American cruising there in the August high season. Of the places listed above, cost-conscious sailors will find better deals in the Caribbean and Azores. Less fashionable places tend to be less expensive. In the Balearic Islands, the port of Mahon, Menorca, is less expensive than jetsetting Palma de Mallorca. (And if you’re a fan of Patrick O’Brian’s Captain Aubrey and Maturin books, you need to go to Mahon anyway.) And some things are just more expensive outside the U.S., including parts, fuel and service. In Europe, pressure washing and bottom painting can be as much as three times what the same jobs will cost stateside. Labor rates are similar across Europe but can be lower in the Caribbean. When you leave your boat to return home, it will have to be hauled and stored, or docked in a rental slip with someone paid to watch over it. That’s either three haulings and launchings per year (rather than the usual one), or the expense of a longterm caretaker while it’s afloat.

(That said, local yacht brokers make good boat watchers. They are often around the docks. I instruct them, “Watch the lines: the dock lines and the waterline. When in doubt, call me.”) Finally, boat work that you might do yourself at home will often be done by boatyards, which adds to the cost.

TWO CHOOSING D E S T I NAT I O N S F O R L AYOV E R S I believe in planning, but when it comes to commuter cruising, I think a better skill is being adaptable. We set a destination with the full knowledge that some version of Plan B is a likely result. In the process of researching a cruise, I identify boatyards or marinas that seem like

Approaching Ibiza in the Med, we prepared for a winter in Santa Eulalia.

COURTESY OF SPENCER SMITH

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possible choices for a layover. Some of the factors I consider are cost, proximity to airports, marina facilities and my general interest in the locale. Researching a specific marina or boatyard is not easy, and all advice should be taken with a grain of salt. I email marinas (often with no response) or call ahead, which is of some use if there’s no language barrier. Friends who speak the local language can be very helpful. Cruising guides are good on the specifics: number of berths, maximum hauling size and availability of services. But they’re often not strong on ambience. Some offer price ranges, but these can go out of date quickly. An example of bad planning on my part was heading for a marina in Tangier, Morocco, that looked great on the Internet but turned out, on our arrival, to be entirely nonexistent! We felt a little foolish but still had a great time in Tangier, eating exotic food and wandering around the Kasbah. Blogs and the saltwater grapevine are useful, but often reflect just one person’s experience. Accept advice from sailors whose cruising style is like yours, who have similar interests, budgets and boat sizes. Dismiss outright the chronic complainers for whom nothing is quite right, or who insist that everything was better 20 years ago. In the first half of a cruise, we head in the general direction of our ultimate destination. Around the midway point we begin to collect more hard information about the place and its potential drawbacks. Sometimes, due to whimsical

weather or the fact that we’re easily distracted, we conclude the original goal was too ambitious. Some marinas, particularly in the central Mediterranean, want payment with a reservation. So far I’ve resisted the urge to pay in advance. It would spoil the random nature of cruising, even commuter cruising. When we arrive at the layover destination, I like to have a few days in hand so if it is not what we want or expect, we can move on. If we’re told that the marina or boatyard is full, we have sometimes gotten good results by being agreeable, if a little baffled, and always having a ready credit card. The relationship between marinas, boatyards and service providers varies from place to place. In the Med, for example, the marina is often an entirely separate enterprise from the boatyards and service providers. In other words, the marina rents the slips; private contractors do the work. The marina is sometimes reluctant to recommend service providers, but a little gentle cajoling often pays dividends. When you return to your boat, be prepared to accept that it will not be ready to set sail on the date you arrive. I keep in touch with the boatyard when I’m away and have even told white lies about arriving sooner than I actually would; I still find myself standing in the boatyard, hands on hips, glaring at my boat that seems weeks away from going sailing. Relax: It’s just anticipation and jet lag. All will be well soon, just not quite yet.

family and wash the salt off. Many long-distance cruisers, I’m discovering, enjoy the same schedule. While I sail with the ghosts of the Hiscocks, the Smeetons and other great sailing voyagers of my youth, in practice I’m totally 21st-century. Air travel is easy, email is great, and work and home don’t need

to be abandoned. Commuter cruising has a lot to offer. Lifelong sailor Spencer Smith has enjoyed a distinguished career in publishing, and is currently the managing director and partner of Smith/Kerr Associates, publishers of award-winning nonfiction books in the nautical, historical, biographical and culinary fields.

THREE G O O D B OAT YA R D, B A D B OAT YA R D Like every cruiser, I’ve been in both types. I had great boatyard experiences in Le Marin, Martinique; the Slipway in Antigua; Mid Atlantic Yacht Services in Horta, Azores; and Sopromar in Lagos, Portugal. As we have sailed east through the Mediterranean (the boat is now in Italy), marinas and boatyards have become less reliable and more

A mix of college kids and salty dogs like myself makes for a good, compatible crew.

FOUR ROUNDING UP CREW

Multiple haulouts increase costs, but it’s always sweet when the boat goes back in. expensive. You can improve your odds of getting good service by looking for facilities that serve boats like yours. You probably don’t want to be the smallest or the largest boat in the yard. You will also get better results if work is being done while you are aboard or nearby, not when you are back home. And as a bird of passage rather than a return customer, you’ll have to work harder to get the best service results. It shouldn’t be that way, but it is.

I have two sources of crew: friends and family, and college-age sailors. Some of my crewmembers are repeats almost every year. Either way, they pay for their own expenses off the boat, and we share the grocery bill aboard. The 20-somethings are mostly from the sailing team at my local university in New Hampshire and my alma mater in Oregon. They are always a great addition: enthusiastic, energetic, and not overburdened with cruising lore or customs. I look for crew who are sociable and really want to go cruising. They need to be persistent to get a berth. Sailing experience is nice, but I’ve had good luck with mountaineers, backpackers and independent travelers. My favorite interview question is “Everyone runs away to sea for a reason. What’s yours?” I get some amazing responses.

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far, six weeks away seems to be about my maximum time limit. After that, it’s asking too much of the people in the office. And they have pointed that out! In fact, even if I didn’t have business commitments, I would still want to return home at least two or three times a year to see friends and

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rental house in Kittery, Maine (which the owners use during the summer), and to my publishing business. This commuter cruising was born of necessity: I couldn’t run my business from my boat, and I need to work directly with my ever-patient business partner. She’s a sailor too, so she understands. Mostly. So


HANDS-ON SAILOR

2 UPCYCLING YOUR TIRED SAILS W hen our mainsail blew out, we skipped the dumpster and used a little creativity to sew new life into the old rags.

P R O J E C TS

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pcycling is a bit of a buzzword these days, but the concept is nothing new to the cruising sailor. While traditional recycling involves breaking down used products to create new raw materials (think old water bottles made into a new fleece vest), upcycling refers to the creative reuse of an item without so much processing (more along the lines of a table made from

BY HEATHER FRANCIS

an old door). To make it on the open ocean, you have to be creative and frugal. When time, space and resources are all under limitations, it is the “waste not, want not” attitude that often wins. We put the theory into practice after blowing out our mainsail, and before all was said and done, we had plenty of nifty new items — a boom tent, bug screen and tote bags — to show for it. We ripped our main one dark and rainy night while

heaved to off the Pacific island of Niue, waiting for enough light to make a safe approach. We jibed and I heard a soft tearing sound, like someone pulling apart well-worn Velcro. When I looked up, I found a small piece of the main hanging from the headboard, attached to the rest of the sail by only the leech line. It had ripped from leech to luff above the third reef point, and there was nothing to do but stow it until we were safely in port the next day. After we checked in, cleaned up and had a hot meal, I dug out my sewing machine and tackled the repair. I was able to fashion a patch out of Sunbrella, and our deeply scarred sail carried us another four months and 1,500 nautical miles until we stopped in Fiji for the season. Although my Band-Aid solution worked, it was obvious that it wasn’t a permanent fix; a new mainsail was definitely on the Christmas list. After we trialed our new main to make sure it fit

properly, I looked for a spot to store the old one, planning to keep the damaged sail as an emergency backup. All I found was the settee in the main saloon. Keeping it as a spare was not an option. The majority of the sail was in good condition; in fact, besides the patch job, there was very little wear. As I sat looking at the great heap of

HEATHER’S TIP Dacron is not as UVstable as Sunbrella, so be mindful of what you decide to cover or protect when upcycling an old sail.

sail that threatened to take over the cabin, it occurred to me that it had already been upcycled; a sailmaker had cut down and customized a much larger sail for the previous owner. It seemed like a waste to throw away all that sailcloth just because we didn’t have space to store it. My

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MORRIS 42X PHOTO BY BILLY BLACK

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A few seams, a couple of hours and some clever design ideas later, I could already feel the temperature inside the cabin beginning to fall, and the dark clouds looming on the horizon no longer seemed so threatening. With the new sunshades installed, I still had plenty of sail left to work with — and an idea for another project.

mind began to churn with possibilities. If it was no longer a sail, what could it be turned into? At the time we were on the hard for the cyclone season, and I was living aboard. The season is full of glaringly sunny days punctuated with heavy rainfall. Without the cooling insulation of water surrounding the keel, the cabin was hot and humid. When it rained, I spent my days cooped up inside, all the hatches dogged and the air fetid and still. Enough material sat in front of me to sew a boom tent and an awning for the foredeck. I would have shade from the sun, and only during the heaviest rainfall would I have to close the hatches. Life on the hard was starting to look a little easier. Sails, like all equipment, eventually need to be replaced, but major damage doesn’t have to take the wind out of your sails forever. With a little imagination, not only can you get a return on your investment, but,

more important, you can save most of the material from ending up in the landfill. Next time you’re ready to change out your old sails, consider giving them a second chance by sewing new life into them. MADE FOR THE SHADE A boom tent is a basic rectangle, an easy project to start with. Here’s how I went about it: To determine the width of the boom tent, I measured the distance between the center of the boom and the bottom wire on the lifelines and multiplied by two. The length was simply the length of the boom itself. We have an aluminum toerail that I planned to use to tie and tension the tent once I laid it over the boom, but I needed strong points in the boom tent to attach the tie-downs. Starting from the tack, I measured the needed length along the luff of the sail. By incorporating the grommets that were at regular intervals

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HEATHER FRANCIS

HANDS-ON SAILOR

63

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PLAYING THE ANGLES The awning for the foredeck was more of a triangle than a rectangle, but the theory was all the same. I planned to use the spinnaker pole as the support, and I needed tie-downs at the two outboard edges, as well as one fore and one aft on the centerline. Instead of working from a straight edge, this time I measured out from the center, drawing a capital I that was as tall as I wanted my awning long. This would be the centerline that ran along the pole. I measured and drew the top and bottom lines to the correct lengths, and then connected the four corners to create the outline of the awning. Since this was a much smaller piece of material,

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DINGHY BAG

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Courtesy of Hunter Marine

3.

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the tie-down attachments didn’t need to be quite as robust; a loop of strong webbing, well sewn at the corners, would be good enough. BUG OFF We had been sleeping with a standard off-the-shelf mosquito net draped over the V-berth, but it wasn’t quite the right size. No matter how much tape I used to stick it up, the net came falling down after a few nights of tossing and turning. Instead of surrounding us with netting, I wanted to build a wall that enclosed the whole V-berth. It would have screen windows for airflow and a zipped door like a tent for easy access. Patterning and cutting the sailcloth was no problem, as I already had experience with dinghy chaps and the dodger/ bimini, but fitting the windows and zipper door so they fit tightly enough was a bit more challenging. So I did what we all seem to

TIM BARKER (TOP), HEATHER FRANCIS

home away from home

along the luff (and removing the slugs), I already had strong points on one side of the boom tent to use for tie-downs. I measured the width of the tent out from the luff and marked a dot every foot or so. By connecting the dots with a straight edge, I had a cut mark for the other side of the tent. After double-checking my measurements, I made the cut and hemmed the raw edge. This particular sail had a fairly flat cut, so I simply used the foot of the sail as the other short end, with the added bonus that the large grommet at the tack worked as a strong tieClew down point. I now had three edges of my big rectangle complete. The clew had too much reinforcement to do much with (quite heavy and near impossible to sew), so I cut it off, effectively squaring off the fourth side. Instead of installing new grommets for tie-downs along this newly cut side, I simply cut off another length of luff from higher up on the sail, making sure the strip was wide enough that it would overlap by a few inches, and sewed it right along the edge, running three lines of stitches for strength and durability.


HANDS-ON SAILOR

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For over a decade Heather Francis traveled the world working on boats. She and her partner, Steve, have been sailing their Newport 41, Kate, full time since 2008. They are currently in the Solomon Islands. To follow their adventures, visit yachtkate.com.

65 march 2016

do these days: I went online and watched a couple of how-to videos. I discovered the secret to sewing flawless windows in any project, and it made the whole endeavor much easier. The trick is to mark, tack and sew the screen and zipper on before making the cutout for the opening. It took a lot of double-sided tape; the sailcloth was just too heavy for pins, and tape kept everything in place as I moved

multihulls offshore spec one design classic sails photo: PhotoBoat.com

Because I am always searching for the perfect shopping bag to take provisioning, I decided to make two. I am not only reducing our use of plastic bags when shopping, but doing so with a handmade bag that has been repurposed twice.

it between my work surface and the sewing machine. After everything was sewn in place, I carefully cut the opening, being sure not to cut or tear the screen. The zipper door went in the same way, just with the extra layer of the two-way zipper between the screen and the facing. The result was neat and professional. To hang my new screen-and-sailcloth wall, I screwed awning track to the cabin top and attached two lines to the hatch above. The screen takes less than five minutes to put up, rolls away for storage when not needed, and makes for a comfortable night’s sleep in even the buggiest anchorages. While the sewing machine was hot, I whipped up a storage bag for the dinghy, both for the offseason and to protect it when we store it on passage, rolled up and strapped down with ratchet straps.

TOOLS FOR THE JOB

HEATHER FRANCIS

Most industrial-strength sewing machines with a walking foot can handle sailcloth and other heavy fabrics. Sailrite, Juki and Adler machines are popular options, as are older Pfaff and Singer models. The sewing machine you choose will depend on your budget, the projects you have in mind, and your available storage space. According to Sailrite’s Matt Grant, a straight stitch is strong enough for sailcovers and boom tents, but a zigzag stitch is important if you also plan to mend sails, as it distributes the stress better across overlapping seams. Sun exposure for a given project will inform your choice of thread. “We use a 200-denier PTFE or Teflon thread because it’s impervious to UV or any chemicals, and lasts the life of the fabric or even longer,” says Mark Hood of Hood Marine Canvas and Training. V-92 polyester thread is also a good option, adds Grant. Jeff Serrie of Island Marine Canvas notes that nylon thread is less expensive, but should be reserved for interior upholstery projects that won’t have any UV exposure. You’ll need a sharp-point needle in the 20- to 23-gauge range to punch through sailcloth. Increase the gauge if you’re planning to sew through more than a few layers. Serrie says you should use a heavier thread and increase the tension on your sewing machine when switching to a larger needle. Sailcloth is tough stuff, so you’ll need a large, sharp pair of scissors to cut patterns. To get through multiple layers and reinforced panels, try a razor blade. — Eleanor Merrill

Sail outside the box www.neilprydesails.com


HANDS-ON SAILOR

3 B U R N , B A B Y, B U R N I f y o u r d i e s e l e n g i n e i s n o t b u r n i n g fu e l e f f i c i e n t l y , t h e ex h a u s t b y p ro d u c t s c a n i n cl u d e s o o t , c a r b o n a n d w a t e r — a n d t h e n y o u h a v e re a l p ro b l e m s . B Y S T E V E D ’ A N T O N I O

M O N TH LY M A I N TE N A N C E

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T

hanks to their reliability and long life, there is a certain aura surrounding diesel engines. With few exceptions, their reputation is well earned. Diesels tend to run and run, mainly because of their straightforward design and comparative simplicity. (That’s changing, for better or worse, with more stringent emissions requirements.) When they do fail, it’s usually not the engine itself that quits, but its bolt-on accessories (heat exchangers, raw-water pumps and exhaust manifolds).

While accessory-component failures are most common, there are other scenarios that can strike at the heart, literally, of your engine. Some of them are especially insidious. When a diesel engine is frequently used for battery charging alone, as is the case with so many sailboat auxiliaries, cylinder temperatures often remain low — too low to support efficient combustion. When that happens, fuel is burned incompletely, thereby creating excess exhaust byproducts like soot, carbon and water. These contaminants accumulate in combustion cham-

bers, on exhaust valves and seats, and on piston crowns. Most importantly, they clog piston rings. Piston compression rings are made from an especially hard, often chrome-plated spring-steel alloy, and the role they play is critical, acting as a super-tough gasket between fast-moving pistons and stationary cylinder walls. Their C shape and springiness allow them to expand and contract with temperature changes, while still maintaining good contact with the piston groove or land in which they reside and the cylinder wall. This mechanical

marvel can go awry, however, if the land and ring gap become clogged with soot. When this occurs, the seal is compromised, and pre-combustion compressed air and exhaust gases, which include soot and water, leak into the crankcase. None of this is good for the engine’s power, fuel efficiency or longevity. Pistons are equipped with yet another set of rings, which are used to control oil distribution to cylinder walls. The latter rely on fine crosshatch grooves to retain lubricating oil on the walls’ otherwise smooth surface. If the oil remained there during the combustion process, it would burn or clog the compression rings with coke; the rings are very hot, which causes the oil to burn, leaving behind carbon or coke. This is where oil-control rings come into play. Oil is often deposited or sprayed onto cylinder walls beneath the piston as it moves up the cylinder, and then removed or scraped

march 2016

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HANDS-ON SAILOR

If you suspect your engine is suffering from carbon buildup — if it’s hard to start, consumes lots of oil, or exhibits poor fuel economy and power — there are a few tests you can perform to determine if that’s the problem. The first and easiest is to run the engine until

it’s warm. Carefully open the oil fill cap. If you are confronted by a continuous blast of air, one that drives a paper towel upward when held over it with one hand, things aren’t looking good; the cause is escaping blow-by gases. For a more scientific analysis, a compression

or leak-down test should be performed. Each of these utilizes different tools and offers different types of data. Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting (stevedmarineconsulting.com).

cruisingworld.com

away, squeegee-like, by the oil-control rings as the piston descends. If, however, these rings also become clogged with soot, they begin to allow oil to slip by and, in a snowball effect, further clog the compression rings, which in turn allows greater loss of compression.

67 march 2016

STEVE D’ANTONIO

Properly operating piston rings must be free to expand and contract. But when they’re clogged with soot and carbon (left), their operation can be impaired. Sludge, varnish and carbon can accumulate on valves and valve seals. The latter (middle) are important in minimizing oil consumption. Engines run under light loads for extended periods will accumulate carbon in combustion chambers and on piston crowns. These piston crowns (right), for example, are coated in black soot.

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MARCH 2016

B O A T S & G E A R N E W T E C H N O L O GY, R E V I E W S a n d PRODUCTS for the CRUISING SAILOR

BY MARK PILLSBURY

During the Boat of the Year trials in Annapolis, the Grand Soleil 43’s full-batten main and 107 percent genoa powered right up in 10 knots of breeze.

BILLY BLACK

I

talian boatbuilder Cantiere del Pardo has spent the last four decades evolving its notion of performance cruising, and its latest offering to arrive in North America, the Grand Soleil 43, takes yet another step in that familiar direction. First of all, the boat looks great. A plumb bow and stern, straight sheer, and low-profile cabin top give the 43 a sleek, no-nonsense appearance. More importantly, the boat sails like a dream, thanks to its powerful full-batten main, 107 percent genoa and Solimar steering. “I really liked this boat,” Cruising World’s Boat of the Year judge Ed Sherman declared after we took the 43 for a spin on Chesapeake Bay last fall, following the U.S. Sailboat Show in Annapolis. It was a sentiment shared by fellow judge Alvah Simon, who noted that it was “so easy to move around the boat,” an important feature for anyone considering passagemaking or even daysailing with a shorthanded crew. Indeed, when my turn came to throw in a couple of tacks, I found the layout of the cockpit, with twin wheels and a clear walkway between them, quite simple to navigate. Perched at the leeward helm, I could readily reach forward to the Harken electric winch and release the loaded jib sheet. Then, as I spun the wheel and the boat turned through the wind, I simply took a couple of steps

across to the opposite steering station, collected the new sheet and retrimmed the headsail with the push of a button. Easy as pie. For the record, in about 10 knots of breeze, we cruised right along with the speedo hovering in the 8-knot range. A finger on the wheel was all it took to keep our heading spot on. And by the way, if we’d had more time during our test sail, I think I would have enjoyed rolling out the code zero that was furled and set on the carbon bowsprit. A Ronstan traveler is located under the cockpit sole — it has a hinged cover so the track can be cleaned or lines cleared should they become tangled — and provides the helmsman with an easy way to tweak the German-style double-ended main to stay in step with the breeze. Both the mainsheet and the genoa sheets are led through tubes under the deck, which keeps the topsides clutter-free and easy to move about on. Excellent nonskid helps too. Forward of the two steering pedestals, there’s plenty of room for guests to relax. A fold-down drop-leaf table sits under a panel in the cockpit sole when not in use, but is easily lifted into place when the drinks come out. The coamings are designed to be comfortable backrests when crew are seated but easy to step over when you’re headed forward on the deck. A couple of other design elements

69 march 2016

The next-generation G R A N D S O L E I L 4 3 follows elegantly in the footsteps of its performance-oriented siblings.

cruisingworld.com

SAILING with STYLE


B O AT S & G E A R

S P E C I F I C AT I O N S

GRAND SOLEIL 43 LENGTH OVERALL 43’6” (13.26 m) WATERLINE LENGTH 38’5” (11.71 m) BEAM 13’6” (4.11 m) DRAFT 6’6”/7’10” (1.98/2.39 m) SAIL AREA 1,108 sq. ft. (102.9 sq m)

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at each end of the deck caught the judges’ attention as well. All the way aft, they deemed the access to the steering quadrant, located under a panel in the sole between the two wheels, to be excellent. And at the bow, Alvah Simon noted the innovative way in which the vertical windlass was mounted securely below deck, allowing the anchor rode to drop directly into the locker. Like other production boatbuilders, Cantiere del Pardo often turns to well-known racing architects to keep its model line fresh. In the case of the 43, they brought in America’s Cup designer Claudio Maletto, who also drew the lines for the company’s latest 39-footer. The 43 we sailed in Annapolis is the third generation of the same length; the previous two also came with strong racing pedigrees. And the builder’s go-fast focus didn’t go unnoticed. The 43 won Boat of the Year kudos from our racy sister publication, Sailing World, which named the boat the winner of the Performance Cruiser and Handicap Racing category. Grand Soleil offers the 43 in a couple of different configurations. The boat we sailed had the standard 61-foot rig and a 6-foot-6-inch T-bulb lead keel; a 64-foot mast and 7-foot-10-inch racing keel are also available. Down below, the threecabin, two-head interior layout is simple but stylish and well executed throughout. Light oak woodwork, gray upholstery, and white

panels on the hull and overhead brighten the interior considerably, aided by three portlights in each side of the hull, long ports set into the cabin top, and hatches overhead. In the saloon, the two-piece hatch can open in either direction, a nice touch for dockside living when the breeze isn’t always from dead ahead. The judges did note the number of fixed ports elsewhere, though, and wondered how ventilation might be in more tropical settings. I found generous headroom in the owner’s cabin forward, and appreciated the elbowroom in its en suite head and shower compartment. Accommodations included a good-size hanging locker and an island queen berth. In the saloon, the dining table could seat a crowd, with U-shaped seating outboard to port, and provided a welcome

Tucked-Away Traveler The Ronstan traveler is cleverly sunk into the cockpit sole. The cover flips up so you can clean the space below or untangle lines should the double-ended mainsheet get fouled.

handhold when underway. A centerline bench doubles as a footstool for the settee opposite and, when not in use, locks into place under the table so it’s out of the way. Set to port at the foot of the companionway, the L-shaped galley appeared to be well designed for cooking underway, equipped with a three-burner stove and oven, a top-loading freezer and a front-opening fridge. The nav station was located opposite, to starboard, aft of which was the guest head and shower. Twin aft cabins rounded out the living space. The Grand Soleil line features top-notch construction and materials. The hull and deck are vacuum-bagged using vinylester resin and foam coring. A carbon-fiber grid is bonded to the hull to carry the load of the keel and rigging, contributing to the boat’s overall stiffness. A price tag of $475,000 puts a tricked-out Grand Soleil on par with its competition at the performance end of the sailboat marketplace. But price alone doesn’t really tell the story. The look, feel and sailing ability of the 43 certainly contribute to its value as well. BOTY judge Tim Murphy noted that he and the other judges all came off the boat smiling after their dockside inspection. And out on the bay with the breeze on? “It was a happier sailing experience,” he concluded. Mark Pillsbury is CW’s editor.

BALLAST 6,936 lb. (3,100 kg) DISPLACEMENT 0.35 BALLAST/DRAFT 0.3 DISPLACEMENT/LENGTH 158 SAIL AREA/DISPLACEMENT 22.4 WATER 95 gal. (360 l) FUEL 58 gal. (220 l) HOLDING 12 gal. (x2) (45 l) MAST HEIGHT 64’6” (19.66 m) ENGINE 55 hp Volvo (saildrive) DESIGNER Claudio Maletto/Interior by Harry Miesbauer Yacht Design PRICE $425,000 Grand Soleil 619-840-3728 grandsoleil.net

SEA TRIAL WIND SPEED 10 to 12 knots SEA STATE 1 foot or less SAILING Closehauled: 7.9 knots Reaching: 8.2 knots MOTORING Cruise (1,800 rpm) 7.1 knots Fast (2,400 rpm) 8.2 knots

For a complete guide to Cruising World’s extensive online boat reviews and to request reprints from our older print archives of reviews, go to cruisingworld.com/ sailboats/sailboat-reviews.

BILLY BLACK

cruisingworld.com

Down below, the light oak interior gives the saloon a bright, modern look (left). Access to the sail locker and large anchor locker on the bow is excellent (right).


With its stretched waterline, generous topsides and ample beam, the MARLOW-HUNTER 31 offers a lot of cruiser in a tidy package. BY HERB MCCORMICK

BILLY BLACK

O

nce upon a time, I owned a J/30. As a racer/cruiser introduced in 1979, it lacked many cruising amenities, even for its era, but for a 30-footer it was plenty beamy (over 11 feet), and I always considered it a not-insubstantial vessel. Times change, of course, particularly with yacht designs, a point that was driven home as I stepped aboard the MarlowHunter 31 last fall. Thinking back on my cherished J boat, I had to smile. Though roughly a foot shorter than the latest offering from the wellestablished Florida builder, figuratively speaking, my old girl would have fit in this new 31-footer’s hip pocket. How was it even possible? Well, the short answer is a quick summation of many of the characteristics shared by lots of contemporary production cruisers. Designers Glenn

Henderson (a longtime Hunter hand) and David Marlow (a veteran powerboat builder who purchased the company three years ago) have incorpo-

A Nice, Clear Passageway The shroud arrangement on the Marlow-Hunter 31 makes for easy on-deck movement. With the lower shrouds inboard and the uppers outboard, along the side decks there’s a clear, unobstructed path forward. Coupled with excellent topside nonskid, the footing is sure and solid.

rated a trendy hard chine just below the waterline and used it to maximize the dimensions and interior volume. Long waterline? Check. Extended topsides? Check. Max beam (almost 12 feet!) carried well aft? Check. Indeed, the Marlow-Hunter 31 is a thoroughly modern pocket cruiser that also includes many familiar Hunter features, including a B&R rig with swept-back spreaders that eliminate the backstay. You’re not finding that on any imports. But when you start to scratch the surface, it’s also abundantly clear that there’s some serious innovation happening here, particularly in the methods and materials used to piece the boat together. We tested the M-H 31 on Chesapeake Bay during last fall’s Boat of the Year trials, and got totally skunked on breeze: zero, nothing, nada. It happens.

But while a couple of the judges and I vainly tried to put the boat through its paces, David Marlow and the third member of our panel, systems expert Ed Sherman of the American Boat and Yacht Council, disappeared below, two salty dogs lost in private banter. Whatever were they discussing? Later, during deliberations, Sherman spilled the beans. “We had a fascinating conversation,” he said. “He’s a man on a mission who really wants to reinvent the Hunter brand. Part of the way he’s doing that is to take a hard look at longterm durability while trying to build a product that’s easier for his factory workers to assemble. He’s invested a huge amount of time and R & D in developing a database of what works and what doesn’t. It blew me away. “Most of his experience is in the powerboat sector, but he has a broad nautical background, so he’s got some knowledge of hydrodynamics, aerodynamics and structural The Marlow-Hunter 31 sports the company’s familiar B&R rig, with the traveler atop the overhead arch.

71 march 2016

Little BIG Boat

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B O AT S & G E A R


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build,” he continued. “It’s evident in the hull layup, for instance, with the use of Kevlar forward to increase impact resistance. They’ve made some phenomenal decisions in how to address cores, where they’re going to be applied, and the type of fiberglass they use in the overall laminate. It’s pretty amazing, and it was impressive to talk to him about it.” There’s the overview on the construction side. Judge Tim Murphy discussed specifics. “There’s definitely a new sheriff in town,” he said. “They’re doing a lot of things really right. There are no chopper guns in the layup shop anymore. Now they’re using biaxial cloth, and it’s engineered so the stress is carried in the right direction. They’re also using vinylester resin, which will really work against osmosis. Below the waterline, the boat is solid fiberglass, but in the topsides and deck they’ve eliminated balsa core and replaced it with Nida-Core, a honeycomb panel that’s lighter

The beam-to-beam cockpit has a Lewmar wheel that can be “folded” away (top). The main cabin is spacious for a 31-footer (above).

and stiffer. All good things.” So, yes, a new day has dawned at Marlow-Hunter, especially on the manufacturing front. What about execution? The judges loved some items and questioned a few others, starting all the way aft, with the hatch in the transom opening into a dedicated storage locker for surfboards or kayaks. Let’s put it this way: Holes in boats that may allow the ingress of water make the judges very nervous. Topsides, the centerpiece of the design is the expansive, beam-to-beam cockpit, which eschews traditional coamings to create the widest possible space. The coolest part, everyone agreed, was the nifty articulating Lewmar pedestal and steering wheel, operated with a foot pedal to swing from side to side so the helmsman can

steer in comfort from either a windward or leeward position. (The wheel spokes also fold inward to permit easy access to the drop-down transom.) Despite the beam, with this arrangement, there’s no need for twin wheels. As with previous Hunters, the traveler for the B&R mainsail is stationed atop a prominent arch, which also houses speakers, LED lights, a bimini and one end of the double-ended main sheet (the other is led to the cabin top). Over the years, I’ve sailed many Hunters with this setup, and it’s functional, though it does take some getting used to. (It’s tough to gauge where the traveler is positioned.) Judge Alvah Simon isn’t a fan, primarily because the arch necessitates a high gooseneck for the boom to clear it; this elevates the sail plan, and power in the B&R rig is really derived from the mainsail. Though our test boat was equipped with an optional in-mast furling main, Simon recommends the standard, traditional, fully battened one. One last thing: Some members of our team, perhaps less nimble than they once were, wondered if it would be difficult getting into or out of the cockpit on a steep heel. (There is a step in the coachroof leading forward, but one of our judges initially mistook it for a seat.) With calm conditions, we didn’t get the chance to try. Down below, the layout is spacious. There is a large head, a straight-line galley and roomy berths in the ends of the boat. Each is a bit of a trade-off. The forward cabin has great headroom but a slightly smaller V-berth. The aft bed, athwartships below the cockpit, is huge but in a more enclosed space. All in all, for well under $200,000, the Marlow-Hunter 31 is a whole lot of boat in a very manageable package. As for the company itself, we’re talking equal parts revolutionary and evolutionary. Herb McCormick is CW’s executive editor.

S P E C I F I C AT I O N S MARLOW-HUNTER 31 LENGTH OVERALL 32’4” (9.86 m) WATERLINE LENGTH 29’8” (9.04 m) BEAM 11’10” (3.61 m) DRAFT (SHOAL/DEEP) 4’5”/5’5” (1.35/1.65 m) SAIL AREA (100%) 581 sq. ft. (54 sq m) BALLAST (SHOAL/DEEP) 3,525/3,379 lb. (1,598/1,532 kg) DISPLACEMENT 11,854/12,000 lb. (5,376/5,443 kg) BALLAST/DISPLACEMENT 0.28 DISPLACEMENT/LENGTH 205 SAIL AREA/DISPLACEMENT 17.7 WATER 50 gal. (189 l) FUEL 21 gal. (79 l) HOLDING 20 gal. (75 l) MAST HEIGHT (STANDARD) 46’7” (14.2 m) ENGINE 29 hp Yanmar (saildrive) DESIGNERS Glenn Henderson/David Marlow PRICE $160,000 Marlow-Hunter LLC 386-462-3629 marlow-hunter.com

SEA TRIAL WIND SPEED 0-2 knots SEA STATE 2 to 3 feet SAILING Closehauled: NA Reaching: NA MOTORING Cruise (2,400 rpm) 6 knots Fast (3,200 rpm) 7.1 knots

For a complete guide to Cruising World’s extensive online boat reviews and to request reprints from our older print archives of reviews, go to cruisingworld.com/ sailboats/sailboat-reviews.

BILLY BLACK

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B O AT S & G E A R


NEPTUNE’S Favorite CHOIR When it comes to onboard entertaining, the gear can be as simple or complex as your wallet and tastes allow. BY DAV I D S C H M I DT

COURTESY OF THE MANUFACTURER

T

he rising sun begrudgingly illuminated a gray mid-November sky as we sailed from Seattle’s Shilshole Marina toward the majestic San Juan Islands. I stepped belowdecks and fiddled with my iPhone. It was connected via an auxiliary audio cable to the boat’s stereo, and the opening riffs of the Grateful Dead’s “Eyes of the World” flooded the cockpit. I started refilling coffee mugs, but I knew that the music was a far better elixir. “Orcas, 2 o’clock!” cried Tim. I stepped on deck and saw two dorsal fins submerge, only to see several more surface nearby. Soon fins and tails were punctuating the surface of Puget Sound as the pod swam alongside Dark Star. Sails were lowered, and the bow found its way into the thin breeze as our entire crew stood mesmerized by the

sight of 20-some orca whales circling our boat, the Seattle skyline still visible over my right shoulder. And while we cut speed, no one even considered lowering the stereo’s volume, as our guests seemed as grateful for the tunes as our crew was. That’s Entertainment Marine entertainment systems come in a variety of packages, ranging from a simple audio control head (picture a car stereo) with two speakers to elaborate installations using an assortment of amplifiers, subwoofers and other accessories designed to make your auditory experiences rich, clear, and as close to a live performance as your vessel’s acoustics allow. Depending on your plans and entertainment needs (read: cruising with or without kids), these systems can also involve TV screens.

Although signal reception can often be spotty without a dedicated TV receive-only antenna, a good movie works just fine on a rainy afternoon or at bedtime. Whether or not you bring little ones along, for most sailors, a good marine entertainment system begins with a great-sounding stereo system that can deliver tunes both on deck and down below. Component-wise, most systems are fairly similar to car-stereo equipment, albeit with different protective packaging (see “Tough by Design,” p. 74). As with all stereo systems, speakers are the single most important ingredient affecting sound quality. Speakers are typically sold as either twoway or three-way models. Twoway speakers sport a woofer and a tweeter, while three-way speakers, designed to create a

more segregated sound, offer a woofer, a midrange cone and a tweeter. Depending on the kind of music you enjoy, a nondirectional subwoofer can add significantly more bass. Modern subwoofers can be fully waterproof and as small as a shoebox, allowing them to be fitted almost anywhere. While home-audio speakers can use fragile, absorptive and decidedly not IP-rated speaker-cone materials, such as paper, silk and

Guide to Manufacturers Aquatic AV: aquaticav.com, 877-579-2782 Bose Corp.: bose.com, 800-999-2673 Fusion Entertainment USA: fusionentertainment.com, 623-580-9000 JL Audio: jlaudio.com, 954-443-1100 Kenwood USA: kenwood .com, 800-536-9663 Poly-Planar: polyplanar.com, 410-761-4000 Rockford Fosgate: rockfordfosgate.com, 480-967-3565

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Fusion Entertainment’s Fusion-Link lets you control your tunes from the chart plotter or wirelessly from your phone.

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B O AT S & G E A R


B O AT S & G E A R

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other fabrics, marine-specific speakers must be built out of durable, hydrophobic, UV-resistant materials, such as polypropylene and waterproof paper. To ensure a long life span, some companies build tweeters out of titanium and treated silk, but polypropylene has long been the industry standard for marine-specific speaker cones. “We’re stuck with polypropylene because it’s stiff enough and waterproof enough,” says Bill Pieklik, Poly-Planar’s director of sales and operations. “Unless you’re sitting side by side with home-audio and marine speakers, I doubt you’d hear the difference.”

And while some sailors have had luck running a standard car-stereo audio control head and speakers belowdecks, be advised that this equipment will likely not last as long as marine-specific audio gear. Moreover, it’s never wise to fit car-stereo speakers into your cockpit, as these will be ruined as soon as they get wet. Size Counts While every cruiser has different auditory needs, vessel size has a big impact on the appropriate kinds of equipment. “Most 30-footers use a pair of speakers, one subwoofer in the saloon, one amplifier and an audio control head unit of the owner’s choice,” says Todd Crocker,

Tough by Design The harsh and highly corrosive marine environment dictates that marine-specific stereo equipment use circuit boards that have been treated with a conformal coating to resist moisture, as well as sealed cases that are typically built out of die-cast aluminum or glass-filled composites and manufactured to International Protection Marking standards, or IP codes. Common IP codes for marine use include IP55 and IP65. The first number expresses the unit’s protection against solid particles, such as dust, and the second number refers to its ability to stave off liquid ingress; in both cases, higher numbers indicate greater levels of protection. Depending on which brand you buy, some audio control heads also feature an optically bonded glass display — much like a multifunction display — which is both waterproof and aesthetically pleasing.

general manager of Fusion Entertainment USA. On a 50-footer, he says, you might have three or four pairs of speakers, with amplifiers and subwoofers, or you might have two systems. “The main system might have two to three pairs of speakers, amplifiers, subwoofers and a head unit, and then you might have a discrete system that’s dedicated to the main cabin, with a DVD player that’s connected to a TV screen, a pair of cube speakers and subwoofers,” says Crocker. “It’s all a matter of taste.” Much like car stereos, marine-audio systems are designed to be ever expandable, allowing audiophiles to get creative. Additionally, remote controls and apps are available that can give you access to your music from the helm or the V-berth. As with car stereos, each manufacturer incorporates different features and connectivity options in their audio control heads. For example, some companies, including Aquatic AV and Fusion, build audio control heads that accept a smartphone or MP3 player inside the stereo’s waterproof and shockproof chassis, thus protecting your expensive device. More recently, the conversation has

shifted to controlling stereos through a multifunction display, a niche that Fusion currently dominates thanks to its now-industry-standard Fusion-Link. This software, which resides on an MFD’s operating system, uses an NMEA 2000, Ethernet or Wi-Fi connection to allow the MFD to control a Fusion stereo. And while Fusion is owned by Garmin, the Olathe, Kansas-based technology giant lets other MFD manufacturers — including B&G, Furuno and Raymarine — embed Fusion-Link software into their operating systems, thus allowing sailors of all stripes to use their MFD as a centralized jukebox. Manufacturers also commonly bundle wireless connectivity options, including Bluetooth, into their audio control heads, allowing users to pair their smartphones, tablets and PCs with their boat’s stereo system. Additionally, many stereo manufacturers still incorporate auxiliary ports in their audio control heads, enabling users to access their device’s music library via a simple cord, much like I did aboard Dark Star. Given the popularity of streaming music services such as Spotify, Pandora, Apple Music and Google Play

COURTESY OF THE MANUFACTURER

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Poly-Planar’s disc player (left) works much like a car stereo, with a flip-down face that opens so you can load a CD. The company’s control head (right) is built to withstand the elements found in harsh marine environments, as are its speakers.


who advises that PCs simply don’t have enough juice. “You can’t get away from us!” On the Small Screen While most long-distance cruising sailors forgo broadcast television service when offshore, plenty of coastal cruisers enjoy some evening screen time. Depending on the exact equipment involved, marine stereos can easily network with TVs and play audio channels

COURTESY OF THE MANUFACTURERS

As for the future of marine entertainment, envision a tomorrow where a single audio control head can pipe content from different audio sources into different onboard zones. Big Blue. If you rely on cloud-based content or satellite radio to keep your foot tapping while underway, understand the limitations of your coverage footprint, and be sure to have locally stored music as well, either on a mobile device or on your PC. Note that while PCs have the ability to store and play music, stereo manufacturers see computers as supporting technology, not as a direct competitor. “You can have all of your music on your PC, but you still need to drive the speakers,” says Pieklik,

over the boat’s speakers, rather than relying on the TV’s significantly smaller and less powerful speakers. Should your cruising itinerary take you outside of television-signal range, some audio control heads, including models from Aquatic AV and Fusion, can play both compact discs and DVDs. Alternatively, sailors can send their audio control head’s DVD signal to their MFD via the video-in port, rather than carrying a dedicated TV screen — and they can do so while enjoying the audio channels on their stereo system.

Given the amount of technology that comes bundled in a contemporary audio control head, it’s not surprising that some manufacturers use microprocessors to handle the stereo’s heavy lifting. This also allows manufacturers to push out updates and additional features (much like on a smartphone), which keeps your system running smoothly and helps “future-proof ” your investment. If the control head is so designed, a user can access these updates on the Internet, via a PC, and locally download the software to a USB flash drive, which can be used to transfer the update to the stereo. Just Do It Installation is the final big consideration for a marine entertainment system. Depending on the complexity of your system, installation can be tackled either as a DIY project or as a task for professionals. “If you’re comfortable cutting holes in your boat, you’ll be fine,” says Pieklik. Irrespective of who is doing the work, however, top marine-electronics shops recommend using flat, covered, 16/2 double-insulated marinegrade wire that’s shielded against RF interference, which can cause annoying buzzing.

As for the future of marine entertainment, Crocker envisions a tomorrow where a single audio control head can pipe content from different audio sources into different onboard zones. Additionally, Crocker believes that the word “analog” will be absent from the marineentertainment lexicon in five years, usurped by digital switching, controls and even streaming of online multimedia content from service providers such as Netflix. Still, plenty of us head out of port intent on leaving the “real world” astern. We want to enjoy time with friends, family and our favorite music. If you fall into this category, rest assured that while today’s marine entertainment systems can be expanded into elaborate, multizone installations, they can also remain as simple as a pair of speakers, an audio control head and some CDs. And while there are no guarantees that your music will attract the attention of roving orcas, you can bet your last shackle that onboard tunes can enhance almost any boating experience, be it a soggy Pacific Northwet [sic] delivery or a starlit evening of Caribbean gunkholing. David Schmidt is CW’s electronics editor.

75 march 2016

Music, many cruisers use their smartphones and tablets to stream cloud-based content on their stereos, provided, of course, that cellular connectivity — typically limited to just a few miles offshore — exists. Likewise, users can stream satellite radio via their smartphone or tablet to their onboard stereo, as long as they can receive a signal from the orbiting satellite, which aims its service at terra firma, not

cruisingworld.com

Both Aquatic AV (left) and Fusion (right) have systems that will let you play tunes directly from your iPhone. What’s different are the technical solutions they’ve developed to protect the devices in a marine environment.


CRUISING WORLD’S

CHARTERING

Enjoy excursions to wineries and historic villages on Sunsail flotillas along Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast in 2016.

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SAIL AND SIP IN CROATIA The Sunsail wine and culinary flotilla in Croatia, which combines tastings and samplings of local delicacies, returns in 2016. Departures for each flotilla of up to 12 bareboats are available on June 4 and 11, 2016, as well as September 17 and 24, 2016. Starting at the Sunsail base in Agana, near the town of Split, this tour takes sailors along the islands of the Dalmatian Coast. After each day of sailing, participants have the opportunity to visit local wineries. Fleets have the 24/7 assistance of a lead crew with skipper, engineer and host to organize all on-land excursions. For more details, log on to the company website (sunsail.com/flotilla-sailing/ wine-and-sail/croatia).

SAIL AWAY, INCENTIVES FOR MILITARY OFFERED BY THE MOORINGS The Moorings has released dates for its Sail Away Stateroom vacations in the British Virgin Islands. Designed for couples or singles, Sail Away Staterooms offer all the benefits of the company’s crewed yacht charters for the price of a single stateroom. The trip includes the services of a captain and chef alongside all-inclusive meals, hors d’oeuvres, drinks and activities suited to passengers’ personal tastes. Accommodations include a private double stateroom with air conditioning, head and shower.

Trips are available in seven-day, six-night packages, and 2016 departure dates include April 4, June 6, August 1, November 7, December 5 and December 12. The Moorings also offers 15 percent savings for all active and retired military personnel; restrictions apply. For details on stateroom charters and military discounts, contact the company (moorings.com).

JEANNEAU 64, OTHER MODELS AVAILABLE FOR BAREBOATING

A2A Yachting, a charter broker based in Birmingham, England, will offer a Jeanneau 64 for bareboat charter in the Caribbean in winter 2016 and in Croatia in summer 2016. Fleet offerings also include a Hanse 575, Dufour 560, Jeanneau 57, Bavaria 56 Cruiser, Beneteau Oceanis 60 and Beneteau Sense 55. The company specializes in arranging trips throughout the Mediterranean and the Caribbean, as well as in the Indian Ocean, French Polynesia, Baltic Sea, Antarctica and Australasia. Contact the company for details (a2a-yachting.net).

COLGATE MILESTONES The Edison Sailing Center in Fort Myers, Florida, debuted the inaugural Doris Colgate Clinic & Cup in November 2015 in recognition of the president and chief executive officer of Offshore Sailing School. The event was created to train, empower and encourage girls and women in all facets of sailing and seamanship — priorities of Colgate’s throughout her 50-plus years at Offshore. Among her accomplishments, Colgate is the author of Sailing: A Woman’s Guide. She has co-authored sailing textbooks with her husband, Steve Colgate, Offshore Sailing School’s founder and chairman. In other news, the school delivered 12 Colgate 26 sailboats to the U.S. Naval Academy in November 2015. Designed by Steve Colgate and naval architect Jim Taylor, the Colgate 26 sailboat has been used to train Naval Academy sailors since 1999. For more details, contact the company (offshoresailing.com). — Elaine Lembo

COMPANIES ADVERTISING THIS MONTH The Moorings 888-703-3176 p.83 Sunsail 800-797-5307 p.80 Kiracoulis 800-714-3471 p.87 FPP Canal Boating 888-652-3969 p.90 Dream Yacht Charters 866-776-8256 p.77 le boat 866-649-2116 p.88 Tortola Marine Management Ltd. 800-633-0155 p.85 The Catamaran Company 800-262-0308 p.78-79 Conch Charters Ltd.* 877-521-8939 p.82 Horizon Yacht Charters Ltd.* 877-494-8787 p.88 NCP & mare d.o.o. +385-22-312-999 p.87 Barefoot Yacht Charters* 784-456-9526 p.84 CYOA Yacht Charters 800-944-2962 p.89 Sail Caribe 866-381-7609 p.86 Southwest Florida Yachts* 800-262-7939 p.101 Cruise Abaco 321-473-4423 p.90 Cruise Annapolis 443-949-9481 p.89 Sailing CBI Inc. 902-567-1494 p.101 BROKERS Ed Hamilton & Co. 800-621-7855 The Globe Sailor 646-453-6602 Ocean Voyages 800-229-4444

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*Also broker This directory is a list of charter companies advertising in this charter section; it is not an endorsement by the editors. Classified advertisers not listed. Listings are arranged in fleet size order. “Charter companies” listed maintain fleets of bareboats and report that they maintain chase boats/personnel, carry liability insurance, return security deposits in 10 working days, deliver the boat contracted (or same size, type, age, condition, or better), supply MOB gear and offer pre-charter briefings. “Brokers” are not affiliated with any charter company; they book private or company-owned boats, crewed or bareboat.

COURTESY OF SUNSAIL

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N E W S a n d N OT E S o n S A I L I N G -VACAT I O N O P P O RT U N I T I E S


Call 1.855.208.7567 Toll-Free or E-mail infona@DreamYachtCharter.com


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Take your sailing vacation this winter or spring and save big-time. When everyone else is paying the highest season rate, your getting the lowest. Book before March 1, 2016, sail any time before October 31, 2016, and The Catamaran Company’s all catamaran, all luxury Tortola fleet of select Gemini and Lagoon models are included on a first-come, first-served basis.* But book your sailing vacation now, because when we run out of yachts, you’ll run out of luck. Just go before October 31, 2016 and enjoy the low season rates, even now, in high season.

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YOU LEAD THE WAY

At Sunsail we have chased the horizon since 1974. You catch the perfect wind, the sails snap full, the sound of the engine drops and the boat heels as you slice through the water. It’s these exhilarating moments that we’re all on a journey to catch. Choose your horizon from 25 destinations worldwide.

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See the Summer from a Stunning New Perspective... This summer, set sail with The Moorings and experience the difference of award-winning yachts, breathtaking destinations and more than 45 years of unsurpassed service. Feel the rush of everyday life melt away in the warm blue waters of the Caribbean; sail along the Mediterranean’s ancient shores; or bask in an exotic locale with a Moorings skipper at the helm. Wherever you choose, you can expect your next sailing vacation to be truly unforgettable.

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A cruising ground that’s somewhere between heaven and earth, but a little closer to heaven.

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arefoot Yacht Charters

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Full service Marine Centre & Yacht Management Facility * Restaurant & Bar * Ocean-view Apartments Sail Loft * Surf Shop * Internet Café * Water Sports Centre * Boutique. Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent & The Grenadines, W.I. | Tel: 1.784.456.9526 | Fax: 1.784.456.9238 | E-mail: barebum@vincysurf.com | www.barefootyachts.com

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Serious training for cruising sailors, and those who want to be F O RT L A U D E R D A L E , F L • M A R S H H A R B O U R , B A H A M A S • S A I N T T H O M A S , U . S . V I R G I N I S L A N D S • N E W P O RT, R I

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At a time when sound advice is priceless... Ours is Free. oats look new and crews seem friendly online, but a picture never tells the whole story, so why risk your vacation on the unknown?

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For over 30 years Ed Hamilton & Co has used their first hand knowledge to arrange Bareboat and Crewed Yacht Charters Worldwide. See why Ed Hamilton & Co has been named one of Conde Nast Traveler's Top Travel Agents for 9 years running and remains the most respected Caribbean brokerage in the industry.

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CYOA has been helping people make the most of their vacations for over 30 years with beautifully maintained yachts, sensible prices, and a friendly, professional staff. We offer… • St. Thomas’ exclusive catamaran fleet – luxury and privacy above and below deck. • Exciting late-model monohulls. • More time on the water – we’re just 10 minutes from the St. Thomas airport. • A guaranteed payment yacht ownership program. • All boats are enviro friendly – 100% holding tank equipped. Visit cyoacharters.com today! US VIRGIN ISLANDS Catamarans | Monohulls | Bareboat | Skippered

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M A RC H

"THE NEXT SPORT WE COULD DO TOGETHER" After almost twenty years of skydiving together we wanted to find the next sport we could do together that would be exciting and fun. We “fantasized” about learning to sail but never took ourselves seriously until some friends encouraged us to look into ASA. Since then, we’ve turned our dreams into a reality thanks to the excellent courses and instructors we discovered through our local ASA sailing school. In the last eight months we have completed the ASA 101, 103, and 104 courses and have bareboat chartered to Catalina Island for a wonderful 3 day sailing trip. Next we are planning a bareboat vacation with our friends in the British Virgin Islands. Thanks to the fantastic learning programs we found by enrolling in the ASA courses, we are truly living the dream!

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30 0 W O R L D W I D E A FF I L I AT E S

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CRUISING WORLD’S

BROKERAGE WHERE YOU’LL FIND the BEST USED BOATS on the MARKET

BOAT MONTH cruisingworld.com

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SALINA 3

A no compromise Salina, as this catamaran is owned by the principal of Fountaine Pajot. The boat is 4-cabin 4-head layout with luxury and space extraordinaire. The boat has a 3.4 metre RIB with 15 hp OB on davits. DC water maker for extended cruising and Performance Hydranet working sails with gennaker to help you get there with ultimate performance. Salina 3 sports folding props on upgraded 55 HP Volvos, 1864 port/2177 starboard hours. Full electronics. Solar panels. Cockpit cushions for comfort and teak cockpit floor and steps for a beautiful working surface that enhances the overall charm of this cat. Epoxy bottom barrier coat is covered by Copperclad paint. Owner moving up a notch and must sell his Salina first. Price is $485,000. P L E A S E S E E O U R A D O N PA G E 9 6 Atlantic Cruising Yachts Anna p ol i s / Fo r t Laud e r d ale / St. Pe te r sb ur g 410- 2 63 -23 11 | w w w. at lantic -cr uising.co m


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I N T E R N AT I O N A L YA C H T B R O K E R S Jennifer Stewart Alan Baines Bill Rudkin

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DIXON 73’ (2008): Epic Dixon design from King Marine, of composite, nice new carbon spar 2010 to go with a thorough makeover. Rewarding sailing yacht, fabulous deck saloon and very sharp interior, just add azure waters, in Caribbean at GBP 1,695,000.

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LATE MODEL SWAN 60 (2001): Extended transom version means its nearly 65 feet long. Fully loaded with all the usual. Nice new 3Di sails, Offshore race and cruise equipped. In the Caribbean this winter, then New England this summer. $995 000.

SWAN 53 CB (1991): New rod, new sails, Leisurefurl, and good electronics, owners already on their new boat continuing their cruising, in Newport, at $349,000.

MOODY 41 (2003): New dark blue paint job by the time she launched, 5.5’ keel, huge head/storage areas, in mast, electrics, two cabin, in Jamestown at $245,000.

JEANNEAU 39i (2007): New boat will be launched in April, so time to move on, and keep the memories of the fun on board, in Newport at $149,000.

HINCKLEY SW 59CB: Ready to do Newport-Bemuda again. Recently contributed to AMIkids and available with interest free terms to qualified individual. In Noank, CT at .$295,000.

AZUREE 46 (2015): A boat show demo is always the deal, so don’t miss this one – easy inspection at the Spring Show in Annapolis, super comfy cockpit, at $449,000.

CUSTOM ABLE APOGEE 50 (2004): Morris Yachts hull, the rest custom. Stunning interior in teak/maple, detailed inlays. Carbon Mast/Leisurefurl, B&G, Northstar. Cape Cod, at $595,000.

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OYSTER 625 SUPER SHOAL TWIN RUDDER, 2013 U.S. specification. Four cabins, including huge VIP forward. No expense spared in options; impeccably maintained. 6' to 13' draft -- Bahamas, Chesapeake, Florida inlets, no problem!

CUSTOM HINCKLEY/ALDEN 60' Exceptional build quality and design pedigree with beautiful workmanship throughout. Handsome lines and proven performance. Major refit, 2015, including new carbon rig, teak decks and all new paint. A real stunner!

ALDEN 54’ AFT COCKPIT SLOOP In excellent shape and lovingly updated. Handsome lines and 3-SR/2-head layout below. Custom tall spar, power winches, generator and new electronics.

FARR 50' PILOTHOUSE, 2004 Ideal bluewater cruiser combines speed, comfort, safety and ease of handling. Well equipped, with bow thruster, powered winches and hydraulic furling main, genoa and staysail. Three cabins, with queen berth aft.

LITTLE HARBOR 53’ CENTER COCKPIT Classic shallow-draft Hood centerboard design with rare two-stateroom layout featuring a large owner’s suite forward. Easy to handle, and a joy to sail!

CUSTOM HOOD/LYMAN MORSE 55' Shoal-draft keel centerboard with east coast ICW ketch rig, in-mast furling, three private staterooms. Quality construction. A really comfortable boat that’s ready to set forth. $375K. In Rhode Island to be sold.

PASSPORT VISTA 515, 2008 Late-model bluewater cruiser, fully loaded with every conceivable option for safe, easy, comfortable sailing. Spacious owner’s stateroom aft and VIP cabin forward. Shoal draft and ICW compatible rig.

SANTA CRUZ 52' Set up for serious offshore racing, with impressive sail inventory, or for comfortable cruising, easily handled by two. In immaculate condition and very well updated, with new carbon fiber mast and electronics (2011).

MARK ELLIS/BRUCKMANN 47’, 2000 Modern construction and systems, with classic lines. Easy to singlehand, with hydraulic winches, bow thruster and genoa furler. 2-SR/2-head layout. In pristine condition.

HYLAS 51' Located in New England. Three-stateroom/three-head layout. Ready for cruising, with Leisure Furl boom for easy handling. New antifoul and entire bottom of hull repainted (2014).

LITTLE HARBOR 44' CENTER COCKPIT Maintained like new. Recent engine, generator, all new electronics, new mainsail, new canvas. Easy to singlehand, with electric furling main, primary winches, all lines leading to cockpit. 2-cabin/2-head, aft-cabin layout.

RHODE ISLAND (401) 683-6070 2INFO@WELLINGTONYACHTS.COM 2FLORIDA (954) 527-4230

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2010 JEANNEAU 42I

Oceanis 43.3 and 43.4 3 & 4 Cabin available. Well equipped. Located Tortola, St. Martin, St. Lucia. Starting at $119,000 Reduced Price

Family cruiser. Spacious. Full size drawer fridge/freezer. A/C. Solar panels. Located in BVI and St. Lucia. Asking from only $219,000

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‘12 Leopard 39-3 cab... $279,000 ’12 Leopard 44 ........... $399,000 ‘14 Leopard 48 ....….... $565,000 ‘11 Jeanneau SO 409.. $130,000 ‘08 Beneteau 50 ......... $195,000 ’11 Jeanneau SO 53 .... $289,000

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The Leader in Sales for New and Pre-Owned Island Packet Yachts - Visit Us at UsedIslandPackets.com.

Boats are in the Water and Ready to Sea Trial ... The Weather is Wonderful, Come On Down Today and Sail Away in Your New Boat!

2004 Island Packet 485 Bradenton, FL $449,000

2008 Outbound 46’

2006 Island Packet 440

British Virgin Islands $444,900 Miami / Key Biscayne, FL $436,900

2003 Island Packet 485

2006 Island Packet 440

Ft. Pierce, FL $415,000

Maimi, FL $399,900

Brand New Listing

2006 Island Packet 440

2005 Island Packet 445

2000 Outbound 44’

2006 Island Packet 440

2003 Passport 47’

Brunswick, GA $389,000

Ruskin, FL $379,000

Ft. Lauderdale, FL $379,000

Brunswick, GA $349,000

Brunswick, GA $369,900

2012 Island Packet 360

2004 Island Packet 370

2004 Island Packet 370

1977 Formosa 51’

2004 Tartan Shoal Draft 37’

Punta Gorda, FL $244,430

Punta Gorda, FL $233,500

Brunswick, GA $199,000

Brunswick, GA $187,000

2001 Island Packet 380

1996 Island Packet 45

1998 Island Packet 40

2000 Beneteau Oceanis 46’

1995 Island Packet 37

Palmetto, FL $179,900

Ft. Lauderdale, FL $169,900

Palmetto, FL $169,900

Vero Beach, FL $159,900

Punta Gorda, FL $157,000

1986 Cheoy Lee Pedrick 47’

1984 CAL 44’

1996 Island Packet Cat 35’

2005 Hunter Aft Cabin 41’

1982 Tashing Panda 40’

Paslmetto, FL $149,500

Apollo Beach, FL $144,900

Titusville, FL $139,500

Brunswick, GA $134,900

Palm Coast, FL $129,900

1974 Durbeck 46’

2003 Bavaria 44’

1992 Hunter Passage 42’

1992 Tartan 35’

1989 Island Packet 35

Bradenton, FL $119,700

Ft. Lauderdale, FL $117,500

Punta Gorda, FL $97,000

Stuart, FL $95,000

Bradenton, FL $89,000

Palmetto, FL $275,000

2007 Jeanneau 54’ 2001 Island Packet 420 2008 Island Packet 370 2005 Kasten-Bos & Carr 2008 Jeanneau 45’ 2000 Island Packet 380 1988 Mason Cutter 44’

British Virgin Islands St. Augustine, FL Miami, FL Palmetto, FLa Marco Island, FL Portsmouth, RI Brunswick, GA

$ $ $ $ $ $ $

449,000 299,900 299,000 295,000 269,900 199,900 154,900

2004 Hunter 41’ 1972 William Garden 45’ 1990 Tayana Vancouver 42‘ 1983 Tashing Baba 40’ 1990 Island Packet 38 1973 CT Cutter 41‘ 2000 Island Packet 320

Beaufort, SC Brunswick, GA Brunswick, GA Cruising FL Brunswick, GA Brunswick, GA Palmetto, FL

$ $ $ $ $ $ $

149,500 136,900 134,900 125,900 124,800 119,900 119,000

2002 Beneteau 39’ 1986 Island Packet 38 1986 Cape George 31‘ 1981 Spencer Cutter 44’ 1980 Whitby 42‘ 1983 Tayana Cutter 37’ 1985 Grand Soleil 39’

St. Pete Beach, FL Brunswick, GA Palmetto, FL Brunswick, GA St. Marys, GA Brunswick, GA Miami, FL

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qualit y yach t s from s w if t sure yach t s 2004 Fantasi PH 44 • $429,000 … Swedish cruiser, stunning inside and out

2004 Hallberg-Rassy 43 • $450,000 … Pushbutton yacht, kept in perfect condition

1989 Dubbel & Jesse 50 • $285,000 … Tough enough to cruise at any latitude

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Swan 46 • 1984 • $275,000

Swan 36 • 1989 • $169,000

Pacific Seacraft 40 • 1999 • $245,000

Morris Justine 36 • 1985 • $217,500

Amazon CC 46 • 1992 • $250,000

Alajuela 38 • 1975 • $129,000

38 C&C 115 • 2006 • $170,000

J/44 • 1991 • $159,000

Celestial PH 45 • 1996 • $219,000

Waterline 45 • 1995 • $295,000

Tayana 48 • 1993 • $299,000

Hanse 411 • 2004 • $159,000

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F L OR I DA YAC H T G ROU P Sales • Charters • Service • ASA Sailing School Your Southeast U.S. and Bahamas Jeanneau Dealer

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1981 C&C Landfall 48 2014 2016 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 2016 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 2016 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 2015 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 2014 Jeanneau Sun 389 - New! Pre-delivery dis- 44DS - Ready Now! 449 - Available Now! Call 509. Incredible deal. Palm Odyssey 44DS Loaded 3SR Major Refit. $235,000 Darren Sell 561-351-7333 FYG for private showing. Beach 800-537-0050 count. Call FYG for details. 800-537-0050 Bo Brown 727-408-1027 OVER 3000 MORE AT WWW.FLORIDAYACHT.COM

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50 Beneteau 2014 OC ....................... $399,000 50 Beneteau 2011 .............................. $350,000 50 Beneteau 2000 ............................. $199,000 2012 Fountaine Pajot Lipari 41 Turn-Key Ready Gary Snyder 954-462-8823

2008 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 2014 Jeanneau 409. Perfect 2013 Jeanneau 41DS - loaded 45DS Miami. $282, 000 in every way. Loaded. with options $268,000 Dave Dodgen 305-781-2581. Bo Brown 727-408-1027. Dave Whidden 305-394-4266

48 C&C Landfall 1981 .........................$235,000 46 Morgan 462 1983 ...........................$139,000 46 Hanse 461 2006 ........................... $199,000 46 Fountaine Pajot Catamaran 1990 .$229,000 45 Gulfstar Center Cockpit 1986 .......$99,000 45 Gulfstar 45 CC 1985 .......................$134,900 44 Jeanneau 44DS 2014 ...................$328,500

1990 46’ Fountaine Pajot 2006 Hanse 461 - Hard to Catamaran, eco-friendly. find! Beautiful. $199,000 $229,000 Darren 561-351-7333 Bo Brown 727-408-1027

1996 Caliber 47LRC Miami. $265,000 Dave Dodgen 305-532-8600

2011 50 Beneteau Sense $330,000 Darren 561-351-7333

42 Hunter Passage 420 2002 ...........$134,500 41 Fountaine Pajot Lipari ................. $290,000 40 C&C 121 2006 .................................. $175,000 39 Sea Ray Meridian Sedan 2013 .... $418,000 38 Beneteau Oceanis 2000 ...............$110,500 37 Jeanneau 2005 .................................$97,500 37 Salona 2010 .................................... $140,000

2000 Beneteau Oceanis 2002 42 Hunter Passage 2013 Beneteau 54 Super 461 - Uprades! $215,000 420. Great cruiser $124,000 Equipped $545,000 John John McNally 561-262-3672 Bo Brown - 727-408-1027 McNally 561-262-3672

2006 40 C&C 121 - Sail away today! $199,500 Dave Dodgen 305-781-2581.

37 Beneteau Oceanis 2012 ................. $158,499 36 Hunter 2008 ...................................$129,000 36 Catalina MKII 2004 ...................... $108,900 34 Sea Ray 2007 ..................................$124,800 32 Beneteau 2005 ................................$74,900 250 Catalina Water Ballast .................$29,950 WE ARE SELLING! QUALITY LISTINGS NEEDED.

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WE ALSO OFFER: Live-Aboard financing I Loans for older boats (1919–1995) I Loans for part- and full-time charters *Estimated APR (Annual Percentage Rate). Subject to consumer loan program requirements and credit approval. Certain fees, closing costs, and restrictions may apply. APR applied to the loan is the APR in effect on the date the application is received and is valid until 30 days after the loan is approved. APRs may vary with loan term. Boat must be 1996 model year or newer; for boat model year 1996 to 2005, add .25% to above rate. Maximum loan term based on model year, loan amount, loan type, and lender guidelines. Other rates with different loan terms are available. Example of a recreational use Boat loan: A 7 year fixed-rate $55,000 loan. Based on an APR of 3.99%, this loan has 84 monthly payments of $751.53 each. Member FDIC. Equal Housing Lender.

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BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS 38’ Lagoon cat, 38’ Admiral cat, 42’ Leopard cat, or 44’ Voyage cat - 7 Nights for $2800 to $5600. 39’ Beneteau mono - 7 Nights for $1400 to $2450. Free Sleepaboard if you y EIS & Seasonal Specials. thecaptainscompass.com Lagoon 400 Catamaran - BVI Charter weekly, monthly, or longer. Great boat, best value, professionally managed. www.longtermcharters.com

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Visiting The Caribbean This Season? BRADFORD MARINE offers Dry storage and Full boatyard services for Multi-Hulls in the Bahamas. 33.5’ Beam Travelift. Long Term Storage. Hurricane strapping. COMPLIMENTARY STORAGE FOR BROKERAGE CLIENTS. Reserve your Space on the Hard Today. Contact 877-287-1513, bahamas@bradford-marine.com, or bradford-marine.com/bahamas

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Sail Santa Cruz & Monterey Bay ASA Bareboat Certification Eight day liveaboard. pacificsail.com 800-374-2626, info@pacificsail.com Women Under Sail 21st Year!! Over 900 Happy Students. Beginner, Intermediate sailing instructions for women. 3-day live-aboard classes-coastal Maine. 4 students/class. 207-415-1606. Or, lessons on your boat. www.womenundersail.com. LEARN AT THE HELM™ Chapman School of Seamanship Career & recreational courses on sail and power vessels. 1-800-225-2841, www.chapman.org Vacation & Learn to Sail $695 for 2 + cottage with 22’ sailboat $140/night. www.americansailing academy.com (305) 451-4700.

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1996 Catalina 400 New Beta Marine engine, Full Batten Mainsail, Standing Rigging. Twin pedestal steering wheels; sleeps 6 comfortably; 2 heads. $100,000; terry.doherty@gmail.com Composting Toilet The ORIGINAL, since 2001 www.airheadtoilet.com PO Box 5, Mt. Vernon, OH 43050. 740-392-3642.

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35’ Island Packet Cutter Rig 1991 Exceptional livability - Cold plate refrigeration - Ready for adventure! $79,900. (860) 729-3314.

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WEATHER SERVICES Ocean-Pro Weather & Routing for yachts globally, sail & power Website: www.Ocean-Pro.com, Oceanpro.weather@gmail.com, Naples, Florida +239-775-7435

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Of f Wa t c h Yes, it’s a small world after all. Unless, of course, you’re trying to sail around it, nonstop and alone, on an extremely well-traveled 28-foot production sailboat.

march 2016

106

A REAL Gone GIRL

W

e live in an age of near-total connectivity. That point was driven home to me late in January when my office phone rang in Newport, Rhode Island. The number on the caller ID was unfamiliar, but not the voice on the other end of the line. It was an old friend, solo sailor Donna Lange. She was literally on the far side of the planet, deep in the Southern Ocean. Whoa. “So, um, how’s it going, Donna?” I asked. “It’s a gorgeous day!” she cried. “I’m feeling great!” Yes, it’s a small world after all. (Unless, of course, you’re trying to sail around it, nonstop and alone, on an extremely well-traveled 28-foot production sailboat.) It was very good to hear she was having a fine day, because only a week before she’d had

Before setting sail last July, Donna laid out her route with a Sharpie and a globe.

a pretty lousy one, when 45-knot winds laid over her diminutive Southern Cross 28 and pinned her mast into the sea, breaking her boom in the knockdown. But I’m getting ahead of the tale. Talk about your gone girls. Donna was closing in on her sixth straight month at sea, having departed nearby Bristol, Rhode Island, in late July on a journey that was equal parts spiritual, physical and ideological. Having circumnavigated once before, on a two-year solo voyage a decade ago with calls in New Zealand and Chile, Donna plans this time to circle the globe without stopping, in the process becoming the first American woman to do so singlehanded via the Great Southern Capes. Along the way, she hopes to bring awareness to ocean issues while also testing herself in ways previously unimagined, learning some deep, personal lessons through the experience. At 53, she’s not so much

M c C O R M I C K

on a voyage as on a quest. Not all of it has been, well, a barrel of laughs. “I was pretty whiny there for a while,” she admitted during our chat. “I wasn’t myself.” Look, after what Donna’s been through, I’d be complaining too. The initial stretch south down the Atlantic, beset by light airs, took longer than expected. Once in the Southern Ocean, intense storms in her path forced her northward, from 49 S to 40 S, adding more miles to the trip. She’s been tired. And cold. Very cold. “I’m not 40 anymore,” she said. “I don’t have the same energy. Even menopause can’t help. I’m past the point of hot flashes.” At least she hasn’t lost her sense of humor. And it’s funny, but there’s nothing like a busted boom to give a gal some focus and perspective, and even boost the spirits. As we talked, she explained the ongoing repair (“It’s why people like me do things like this — we’re creative engineers.”) and gave credit to her partner and team manager, professional captain Bob Philburn, who’s been a fount of solid technical advice and good old-fashioned encouragement. “He reminds me of who I am,” she said. There’s more — much more. The sea life and albatrosses, now constant companions, have blown her away. So has the support of her blog readers (“I can feel their energy.”), and

even the tint of the sea (“I’ve fallen in love with the blue of the ocean. It’s such a gorgeous color blue.”). She’s working on a book and the craft of writing, and keeps in touch with her kids and grandkids via her sat phone, taking photos of herself and making cards for birthdays and holidays. Along the way, she’s even changed the name of her boat. “It was Inspired Insanity,” she said. “Now it’s Inspired Sanity. I had an epiphany out here. I’m more positive. I have a more sane take on the world.” Going forward, having passed below New Zealand but still several thousand miles west of Cape Horn, Donna said the short-term forecast calls for fine conditions to work with epoxy and fix the boom; in the meantime, she’s flying the main free, an “interesting experiment” that’s going well. But there’s high pressure ahead, and soon she’ll dive back south, which she needs to do anyway to round the Horn. Her ETA for Bristol is sometime in May. “I’m excited about going home,” she said. “But I also know it’s a privilege to do something like this. I’m going to enjoy it.” And then, click, our call was over. I got back to daydreaming out my window. Donna got back to conquering the world. Herb McCormick is CW’s executive editor. To follow Donna Lange’s voyage and blogs, visit her website (donnalange.com).

COURTESY OF DONNA LANGE

H E R B

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