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Textile Print Designer

Bethaney Lauren Barrie Reflective Journal

I began taking photographs of things that interested me. I was naturally drawn to light, colour and texture. Almost immediately, my project started to take shape and appeared to have a direction. I began to experiment with the exposure settings on my camera and achieved some really stunning and interesting results, as can be seen below.

Lights. Illuminate. Blur.

My images provided a stark contrast; either delicate natural things, like flowers, or robust manmade things, such as fairground rides and machinery. This obvious contrast came about by accident through experimentation and suddenly the title ‘Opposites’ was born.

Rust. Colour. Opposites.

I have tried to stay away from mark making as in the past I have used this technique and struggled for imagery; I concentrated on drawing in various ways and painting whole objects. Drawing and painting were hard to get into at first, as I feel these are weaknesses of mine; however, as the week went by I found I was creating drawings and paintings much quicker and they were becoming far more effective. Below are just a couple of pieces I have created this week. When I reflect on my drawings, I can see I am drawn to natural things. Next week, I plan to visit a forest and take photographs of fungi, but then in contrast, to visit a scrapyard to capture photographs of machinery and decaying metal textures etc. From the scrapyard photographs I will revert to mark making as this is something I really enjoy and know will be effective where decaying metal is concerned.

Delicate. Texture. washed out.

I then tried experimenting with these drawings to make some first initial prints. They are only initial ideas but they will help me move forward with my work. Having tried this, it only reiterated the fact that I need to do some mark marking. Drawing is a weakness of mine so I prefer to photograph my work and then use it, as photography is one of my stronger skills.

Mofit. Lines. Floral.

I concentrated on gathering colourful photographs and used filters to make them appear more manmade. I was pleased with the results and believe some will stand strong as prints in their own right. To provide a contrast, I went to an old train graveyard to capture manmade machinery.

Bright. Exposed. Saturated.

While I was experimenting in Photoshop, by complete accident, I came across a layer effect where one image starts and the other begins. I am interested in creating layers with materials in my final designs and this effect will add to this.

Negative. Layers. Lines.

I created new drawings and prints; arranging them side by side to see what went well together. I have never done this before, but found it works well and gives me new ideas. I will continue to do this in the future.

Texture. Rust. Mould.

Metal. Arrangement.Chains.

After researching into starting up an Asos Boutique in accessories, I decided this was an over ambitious Live Project that would interfere with my University work. Instead, I decided I would like to gain experience in a school and industry. I feel two such diverse work-related experiences will increase my chances of employment, as well as being two great opportunities to gain invaluable subject knowledge and improve my inter-personal skills with professional people.

Transparent. Layers. Sheer.

My research into a Boutique was not wasted as transparent clothing and accessories are on trend for 2014. It is definitely worth investing some time into some experimentation with this creative and innovative trend; Phillip Lim, Lacoste, Dries Van Noten, Helmut Lang, Burberry and Givenchy’s 2014 collections have transparent elements and this is something I would like to include within my collections.

Cut-Outs. Opacity. Lines.

Texture. Chain. Light.

In this project I have learnt not to draw for the sake of drawing, but this week decided I needed some hand drawn, manmade elements, so I chose chains, screws and locks, and started to draw as I felt this was something I needed to move forward with my work. I then began to create some prints.

Unnatural. Screw. Metal.

Cracked. Ink. Marble.

I have been offered an opportunity to design a print for a brand called Takeover. The brand and brief do not necessarily fit what I normally design, but I thought it would be a new and exciting challenge. The brief they set me was quite relaxed. Takeover was interested in marble and cracked effects, so I researched into the kind of prints they normally sell. They have a tendency to sway towards monochrome with flickers of colour. I began by creating marble effects, as you can see below. I envisage the prints on neoprene or some kind of acrylic blend fabric that can be physically broken up. I found working to a strict brief a lot more challenging than I expected. Although working to a brief was hard, I think it was the need to use a limited colour palette that I really struggled with. This brief made me realise that I like to work in a certain way and in the future I should play to my strengths more e.g. looking for briefs that are more focused on colour.

Broken. Paint. Texture.

Masks. Rewarding. Zombies.

Monday 6th January - Friday 10th January Work Placement at Bristnall Hall Academy Throughout my week at Bristnall Hall Academy I worked with students in Years 7 – 13 i.e. 11 to 18 year olds. I worked mainly in Textiles, but also Graphics, Art and Performing Arts. Surprisingly, Textiles turned out to be the subject I found least rewarding, as it was very traditional Textiles and this is not my specialism. I did not study Textiles at school so it was not something that I could strongly relate to. Graphics and Art were both rewarding as I helped students to build on their very basic Photoshop skills, which will help them with their future studies. I felt like I made a difference, also helping the teachers as their knowledge of Photoshop was even less than the students’ in some cases. At Bristnall Hall Academy, I found the Performing Arts class the most rewarding to help teach. This class was mainly children with learning disabilities and/or behavioural problems that normally find it hard to concentrate and focus on the task set. I had been told that this class was making zombie and Madagascar masks. I had prepared and printed some zombie mouths to scale that they could stick on their masks. When stuck on the masks these looked good immediately and motivated the students to focus and work. I also showed them how to create cuts and scars. I took some photographs of the students’ zombie masks to be used on display boards in the Inclusion Unit and around the Academy. I was also approached by the Physical Education Department to take photographs of students in Dance and Sport. This was good practice for my university work and gave me a new experience capturing people moving, participating in Dance, Sport and Performing Arts. On reflection, I enjoyed my week at Bristnall Hall Academy. However, I felt my skills set was too advanced for this level of teaching at the moment. This placement experience only confirmed that teaching is not something I want to do in the immediate future, which only makes me more determined to gain experience in the fashion industry. Perhaps I would consider teaching in the future when schools’ technology is more advanced, where Photography studios, Photoshop and other Design programs will be more readily available. Gaining some experience in industry will increase my chances of employment. I had a successful interview for an internship at Jane Carr and have been offered a month either at Easter or at the end of my Third Year. I feel this will be a fantastic opportunity to: learn new skills and techniques, gain some contacts in the industry and pick up some great tips to follow a career in the world of fashion or accessories.

Art. Graphics. Preforming Arts.

Blur. Distort. Lines.

Krzysztof Wyszynski caught my eye whilst I was researching Fashion Photography. I especially like the editorial he did for DModa magazine, not only has he taken amazing photographs, but has used some really cutting edge manipulation techniques. I have tried to create some edits similar to his (see below), they are only initial ideas, but I think it would be advantageous to experiment with these further.

Overlay. Opacity. Fashion Photography.

On the left I have begun to develop this idea further. I also experimented with risograph (bottom right) and I think it’s a really effective technique with definite possibilities for creating spreads in my look book for unit X. Next time I will make sure I cut around the model beforehand to avoid the lines of the background, doing this will make the technique much more effective.

Development. Krzysztof Wyszynski.

Movement. Risograph. Print.

I have spent invaluable time researching what is the best possible layout and presentation for my look book, which will predominantly be about my photographs. I want to add text, but plan to keep it minimal so that the text performs its function of being informative without being distracting. I took my photographs before doing my research, which may have been shortsighted. This will result in me having to do far more editing to achieve the desired results as they were shot before I knew exactly what I required.

Ryan McGinley. Light. Movement.

With this in mind, I took some more photographs in a proper studio. These will be much more suitable to displace onto. In my studio time I also did some light experimentation, inspired by Ryan McGinley, some of his work can be seen on the left. I like the atmosphere of his photographs. My project began by capturing light and I consider it to be strategic for this to be reflected in my final visualisations and zine. My Ryan McGinley inspired light photographs are to the right and on the following two pages. I think they are extremely successful and am contemplating taking this idea further by producing a promotional video. The promotional video would be part of my degree show along with look book and my prints. I feel the video and look book will set me apart from other textile students and show my skill set in a relevant and innovative way. I plan to send the look book to companies I wish to work for, as a way of showcasing my work.

Exposure. Flash. Colour.

Trails. Vivid. Movement.

Disjointed. Colour. Bright.

Zoe Hitchen was my main source of inspiration when creating my short promotional video. She is a fashion filmmaker, director and photographer. She has collaborated with and worked for Nick Knight, Dazed Digital, PATTERNITY, NARS, i-D Online and many more. Her videos are very dramatic. I think I managed to capture a mood in my video just as she does. She is someone I will continue to aspire to when creating another video in Unit X. The way she edits different shots together is something to consider. Here are some stills from some of her videos.

Zoe Hitchen. Mood. Editorial.

Lighting. Distorted. Film.

Towards the beginning of the project I began to experiment with branding and have revisited it, as I would like to include it in my zine and Photo Book. I feel branding is imperative, as in the future it could be linked to me and a symbol that is known internationally. Although I wish to work for a company and not be an independent designer, I still feel it is important to have a brand mark/ logo as this will make me appear a more established designer. Below is my new brand logo.

Branding. Designer. Logo.

I have concentrated on using Illustrator flats to experiment with placement and paneling as I did not feel displacements were showing my paneling ideas for garments adequately. This helped me focus on composition and scale. These are both important when visualising a print.

Composition. Visualisations. Flats.

I have had a re-think of my collections. I think these collections now complement each other. I have two finished collections and one unfinished one that I plan to finish in Unit X. Although the two collections are finished, I still think it is important to revisit them in Unit X with a fresh mind and see if I can make any improvements. This is why I will not be officially naming the collections yet. For now I will just call them Colour, Darkness and ‘to be continued’. All three of my collections focus heavily on colour. They are mainly placement prints with some having a suggestion of repeat.

Collections. Darkness. Florals.

Colour. To Be Continued.

Nick Knight is an inspirational photographer. I particularly like the way he captures movement. His photos are full of life and colour. I aspire to capture the same exciting feel in my light experimentation photographs.

Nick Knight. Photography. Light.

Blur. Inspiration.

Designers who are relevant to my work include, Mary Katrantzou, Wunderkind and Versace. They are all high end and influential designers. I feel I am working with a similar target market. In particular I feel my ‘Darkness’ collection (on left) would fit Sergei Grinko, Wunderkind and Ports 1961 (as shown on right). They don’t always use print, but when they do they have a dark feel to them, just like my collection. I envisage my prints on expensive fabrics such as silk, however, I would like to include detailing, this will be reflected in my displacements and flats and it is something that I will look into in more detail in Unit X. In the immediate future I will be working either freelance or preferably in-house. Working for any of the designers above would be my ideal job.

Inspiration. Darkness. Florals.

Fashion. Trends.Target Market.

Print. Contemporary. Bold.

I have looked into possible design studios where my work would also fit. Keeler Gordon (top left), Indigo studio (bottom left) and Design Union (below) all create bright, bold contemporary womenswear prints to sell to high end, high street and fashion houses worldwide.

Bright. Colourful. Design.

I came across Masha Reva when preparing for my Presentation review. I liked the way she used layout and composition to make cheap items look more expensive. She also uses a lot of collage both hand made and digital. I think this is an interesting concept I would like to keep this in mind as a way of displaying my work.

Masha Reva. Ideas. Layout.

Digital collage would allow me to create something visually pleasing as well as allowing me to use and show off all my skills set. I could combine photography, prints, illustrations, drawings, mark making and also make use of my photoshop and illustrator skills.

Composition. Digital Collage.

I have researched into many look book and layout ideas, but my main inspiration came from Rika Magazine and Paulo Brandaomelo. I like Rika Magazine’s clean finish, simplicity and use of typography. I like the way Paulo Brandaomelo uses a stylised look behind his images. For Unit X I have spoken to a graphics student about a potential collaboration for this look book. I think working collaboratively would be a rewarding experience and it would help me make my layouts look more finished and professional. On this page are some Rika Magazine spreads, on the next page are some of Paulo Brandaomelo’s work and on the following two pages are some example layouts I have been working on.

Look Book. Layout. Typography.

Stylised. Shape. Photography.

In this project I have made it my aim to learn as many design skills as possible to increase my likelihood of gaining employment in this field. At times this was challenging, however, it was extremely beneficial. I have endeavoured to understand and apply various different and diverse techniques; I created my journal using In Design as preparation for my look book in Unit X. I began experimenting and working more in Illustrator to become more proficient and fluent in it. Moreover, I created a short promotional video in Final Cut Pro and have continued to extend my knowledge in Photoshop. I am pleased and proud of the body of work I have created so far and I am passionate about improving, developing and expanding this in Unit X. One of the main reasons I have been so successful with time management this year is that I realised last year I worked better under pressure. Consequently, I decided to set myself weekly mini deadlines that I would strictly adhere to so as to not only keep on top of things, but would also result in a consistent and better overall standard of work throughout. I have attempted to be as experimental as possible with every element of my work. I pushed my prints a lot further than I have in previous years; I experimented extensively with photography and as I became more proficient learnt: how to get the best out of my camera by taking advantage of colour, light, viewpoint, aperture, shutter speed and the lens focal length. I not only learnt to keep the camera still, but how to move it for creative effect. In my work, I feel I have achieved creative results; as seen in my prints, photo book and light experimentation. I have realised that drawing is not my strongest point, but feel my photography skills more than compensates for this and it brings an exciting and different element to my work, in addition to mark making. I took onboard feedback from last year and tried my best to improve the elements of my work that weren’t at the same standard at the rest of my work. I tried to create varied prints and I think the title ‘opposites’ really helped me do this. I had a tendency to make prints too busy and as I like to work with colour this can sometimes make a print too much. To overcome this I made sure I was always considering colour, scale and the amount of elements in a print.

Evaluation. Reflection. Aims.

In previous years I felt my sampling wasn’t as strong as it could have been. This year I printed or at least colour tested most of my prints on different fabrics. This allowed me to consider what weight fabric each print should go on. Sometimes busy prints would work better on a delicate fabric, again making the print look less busy. I focused heavily on detailing and this was reflected in my final flats, visualisations and technical file. In Unit X I would like to experiment with printing on a more diverse range of fabrics than those available at university. I am especially interested in working with latex as I know this is an up and coming thing. I have already completed the necessary sampling in this part of the project, which can be seen in my technical file, to make this possible in Unit X. I think it is important that I focus more on a concept in Unit X as this will help me develop my idea for a look book and video. To develop my concepts I will need to ask myself what is each collection about, what mood and feel each one has and how this can be reflected in my look book. I will need to gather new imagery and I feel a stronger concept would help me be more successful when doing this. In short my aims for Unit X are to finalise all three collections, giving each of them clear definition. Create a look book that showcases all the elements of my work, prints, photography and mark making. To shoot another promotional video as well as creating the necessary links to the outside world such as creating an Instagram account, working on my blog and Behance, making my work accessible to the world. Although I would ideally like to work in house for a company I feel it is essential to build recognition in any way possible. Overall I am extremely proud of the work I have created so far and I feel my work has come a long way since second year. I am excited to develop my ideas further in Unit X.

Finalise. Concept. Focus.

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