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ultratravel The Daily Telegraph

SUMMER 2013

GWYNETH PALTROW’S Plus ULTRASAIL YOUR GUIDE TO HEAVEN ON WATER PIERS MORGAN & CELIA WALDEN IN NEW YORK ROGER FEDERER’S GLOBAL ADVENTURES

ULTRATRAVEL AWARDS

100

FINEST THINGS IN LUXURY TRAVEL

A


For information contact SRL Marketing Ltd on 01753 883265. To book contact your preferred travel professional. www.letouessrokresort.com


ULTRATRAVEL PROMOTION

TEE TIME SPA TIME THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL

is a world-renowned golf resort and spa set on 850 acres of breathtaking Scottish countryside conveniently located just one hour from Glasgow International Airport. If you wish to arrive by train, Gleneagles is the only resort in the country with its own train station, located just 2 miles away with a daily train direct from London King’s Cross. Inspired by Scotland’s dramatic natural beauty, the hotel features 232 luxury bedrooms and suites reflective of the property’s rich history and heritage, which dates back to 1924.

The award-winning Spa at Gleneagles by ESPA is a sanctuary within the hotel offering traditional spa therapies along with wellness and alternative therapy treatments such as nutritional advice, osteopathy, naturopathy, acupuncture and personal training.

TEE OFF at the RYDER CUP Since its inception, golf has played a significant role in Gleneagles’ history. Next

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

The Gleneagles Hotel boasts a rich array of outdoor pursuits in the Scottish tradition, including clay target shooting, archery, trout fishing, gundog training and falconry, as well as tennis, swimming, croquet, cycling and pitch and putt. There’s also an equestrian school on the grounds.

Only one hour’s drive from both Edinburgh and Glasgow airport and daily train from London King’s Cross direct to Gleneagles train station. Three nights from £990 per room based on two people sharing a Sovereign room and including the renowned Gleneagles’ breakfast. To book your stay call 0800 169 2984 or email resort.sales@gleneagles.com or visit www.gleneagles.com

year it is set to host The 2014 Ryder Cup on The PGA Centenary Course, one of three championship golf courses on the property—which is regarded as one of the finest spectator courses in the world. In addition to the Jack Nicklaus designed PGA Centenary Course, Gleneagles also boasts The King’s and Queen’s Courses, designed by James Braid, a 9-hole par 3 course and The PGA National Golf Academy.

WINE & DINE

From the grand formality of The Strathearn to the bustling vibe of Deseo, from the Michelin Star magnificence of Andrew Fairlie to the clubby ambience of the Clubhouse Bar & Grill, Gleneagles has a restaurant to satisfy all preferences.


TWO STARS AT GLENEAGLES Whether it’s enjoying dinner by Andrew Fairlie, the only chef in Scotland to hold two Michelin stars, or getting to know Nigel, our resident Golden Eagle, a trip to Gleneagles is always a memorable experience. We do advise advance booking. Nigel is very popular. To plan your visit please call 0800 169 2984 and quote "Ultratravel"

The Gleneagles Hotel

Internet: www.gleneagles.com Email:resort.sales@gleneagles.com The GLENEAGLES words and the EAGLE device are trademarks


CONTENTS

Features

PHOTOGRAPHER: ADAM PARKER. STYLIST: ARABELLA BOYCE AT RED REPRESENTS. COTTON TWEED JACKET, £2,250; JERSEY SWIMSUIT, £390; LEATHER BAG, £1,415, ALL BY CHANEL (020 7493 5040). ORBIT SUNGLASSES BY KAREN WALKER EYEWEAR, £180, AND BELLANTOMOD SHOE-BOOTS BY MANOLO BLAHNIK FOR VICTORIA BECKHAM, £700, BOTH FROM LIBERTY (020 7734 1234)

28 Gwyneth Paltrow’s LA The American actress gives the lowdown on the city where she was born, from where she dines out with Chris Martin to the beaches, bars and shops she frequents 34 Fresh Mauritius The Indian Ocean island has undergone a surge in popularity, thanks to a swathe of new hotels, gourmet events, spa treatments and activities from skydiving to kite-surfing. Nicki Grihault reports 41 The Ultratravel 100 In our annual awards, we name the 100 finest things in luxury travel – as chosen by you 48 Ultrasail Our 16-page sailing and cruising special begins on board Panthalassa, a 184ft superyacht equipped

with toys ranging from an underwater scooter to a hydraulic swim-platform. Nigel Tisdall joins her in the Caribbean 57 Happy landings The best shore excursions are all about adventure and access to unusual places. Sue Bryant picks 10 of the best, from camping on the Antarctic ice-shelf to swimming with sea lions 61 Floating collections Some cruise ships rival art galleries for the works on show, says Norman Miller 66 I spy from my little eyrie Our writers check in at six of the finest hotel suites with even finer views

Regulars

11 Editor’s letter Charles Starmer-Smith on cruise ships, superyachts and the narrowing gap between them 13 The next big thing Cruising gets cool, plus news from the world of luxury travel, compiled by John O’Ceallaigh 17 Accessories Three pages of essential advice – on beauty, gadgets and fashion 22 Up front with John Simpson The BBC’s world affairs editor finally became a true Paris local when, after 14 years of Sunday lunches, the maître d’ at his favourite restaurant addressed him by name

24 Aficionado The Australian designer Marc Newson reveals what has inspired him on his travels 27 Mr & Mrs In our new series, Celia Walden and Piers Morgan are impressed by wildly different

aspects of a stay in the Empire Suite of the recently refurbished Carlyle hotel in New York 77 Intelligence Countdown to The Cape; the best suites at sea; and a masterclass with Yannick Alléno 82 Travelling life When tennis star Roger Federer goes on holiday, it’s all about sunshine and glorious beaches

U LT R A S A I L Page 48 Our 16-page cruising and sailing special features the superyacht Panthalassa, shot on location for Ultratravel in St Martin/St Maarten

© Telegraph Media Group Limited 2013. Published by TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, and printed by Polestar UK Limited. Colour reproduction by groupfmg.com. Not to be sold separately from The Daily Telegraph. Ultratravel is a registered trademark licensed to The Daily Telegraph by PGP Media Limited

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The B lueprinT

The inspir aTion for your Jumeir ah experience every where Creating the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most luxurious hotel made us think differently. Find your Jumeirah experience at jumeirah.com/experiences


EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LETTER

THE LIFE AQUATIC It was the summer of 2005 on the French Riviera and a bevy of

New wave The renovated Constance Le Prince Maurice in Mauritius (page 34)

models were giggling as the bachelor son of a shipping magnate held court on the deck of his new 300ft yacht. I joined in the clinking of champagne glasses to mark its launch. So far, so St-Tropez. For this vessel was a head-turner all right. Its name? EasyCruise One. This was Steliosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foray into cruising: a gloriďŹ ed ferry with orange walls, uninspiring food, basic cabins and achingly cheesy entertainment. â&#x20AC;&#x153;How do you become a millionaire?â&#x20AC;? he asked, as we neared St-Tropez, then answered: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Be a billionaire and start a low-cost airlineâ&#x20AC;?. He would soon add the phrase â&#x20AC;&#x153;no-frills cruise lineâ&#x20AC;? to his favourite joke. For a ďŹ rst-time cruiser like me, the bar had been set pretty low. Fast forward eight years and I found myself on board another vessel. This time, it was the son of a property magnate taking centre stage â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a Cosmopolitan in hand, a pop singer on his arm and an audience hanging on his every word. As we cruised around the bay of St-Tropez, beautiful staff in preppy outďŹ ts whizzed about the teak decks dispensing G&Ts. We dropped anchor and the requisite â&#x20AC;&#x153;boysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; toysâ&#x20AC;? were brought out, the music was turned up and the air was ďŹ lled with jet-spray and squeals. A tender arrived to whisk us ashore for a long, rosĂŠ-fuelled lunch at Nikki Beach. It was a brief ďŹ&#x201A;irtation with the world encountered by Nigel Tisdall on the superyacht Panthalassa in the Caribbean (page 48) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not to like? But my point is this: the gap between cruise ships and yachts is not so yawning. Stelios had misjudged the mood. Passengers want more, not less â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and they are prepared to pay. Ships have had to become more like yachts: smaller and sleeker, with facilities to match. The buffet is out, Michelin-starred chefs are in; for bingo, cards and shufďŹ&#x201A;eboard, read boutiques, cinemas and spas. Staff often outnumber passengers, suites have become ever more sophisticated and that Matisse on the wall (page 61) is probably an original. Then there is the access a cruise gives to unique adventures ashore, from hot-air ballooning over the North Pole to helicopter rides above active volcanoes (page 57). Welcome to the summer issue of Ultratravel, your guide to heaven on earth â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and water.

Smooth waters The pool and bamboo stand at Norwood House, on the Tea Trails estate, Sri Lanka (page 54)

FOR THE LATEST IN LUXURY TRAVEL telegraph.co.uk/ ultratravel

Editor

CONTRIBUTORS

Gwyneth Paltrow photographed by Carter Smith/Art + Commerce

Roger Federer The Swiss tennis star travels with an entourage of up to 75 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to tournaments, that is. No wonder he likes his holidays â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with his wife and young twin daughters â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to be as quiet as possible, on a peaceful, balmy beach

Marc Newson Japan, hardware stores and nature fascinate the Sydney-born designer. His pet hate? Design hotels. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The design of a hotel isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the most important thing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; what matters is functionality, and making guests feel at homeâ&#x20AC;?

Aurelia Donaldson The Telegraphâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s online fashion expert has a perfect pedigree: her sister is the model Lily Donaldson and her father the fashion photographer Matthew Donaldson. She styles our shoot about the English look

Adam Parker Shooting in the Caribbean for our Ultrasail section, the well-travelled London-based photographer got a taste for life at sea â&#x20AC;&#x201C; so much so that he is making plans to explore the Mediterranean by boat this summer

Celia Walden For a new series, Mr & Mrs, the Telegraph columnist and her husband, Piers Morgan, checked into The Carlyle, New York. While she was entranced by the views and the bedside LadurĂŠe macaroons, for him it was all about the nine televisions

ultratravel

Editor Charles Starmer-Smith Creative director Johnny Morris Managing editor Andrew Purvis Deputy editor Lisa Grainger Sub-editor Yolanda Carslaw Photography editor Joe Plimmer Contributing editor John Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ceallaigh Intern Matthew Brant Executive publisher for Ultratravel Limited Nick Perry Publisher Toby Moore Advertising inquiries 07768 106322 (Nick Perry) 020 7931 3239 (Andrew Wiltshire) Ultratravel, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT Twitter @TeleLuxTravel

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CirCumnavigation of the globe a t r u lY e XC e P t i o n a l lu X u r Y to u r , bY P r i vat e J e t

Ever since the discovery that the world was round, travellers have been fascinated by the idea of circumnavigating it. Now, Captain’s Choice offer you the opportunity to make this oncein-a-lifetime journey in the comfort and luxury of our private jet. Freed from the constraints of scheduled transport, this 21 day itinerary lets you explore the world’s most iconic and exotic places in a style which would simply not be possible otherwise. You will travel aboard our spacious jet, stay at the finest hotels and enjoy gourmet dining, with your every need taken care of by an experienced escort team which includes a tour doctor. Taking off from London, you will head west across the Atlantic to Merida, in Mexico, gateway to the ancient Mayan city of Chichen Itza. Your second stop is vibrant Rio de Janeiro in Brazil, alive with the rhythms of the Samba. Then it’s a short flight to one of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls, Iguassu falls. Heading out over the Pacific, you’ll touch down on remote Easter Island, dotted with its almost 800 mysterious Moai statues. Tahiti, the spectacularly beautiful island nation is your next destination, before your flight across the international dateline to Australia. Here, you’ll land in Sydney, often described as one of the world’s favourite cities. Climb the harbour bridge, or simply marvel at the iconic Opera House from your hotel window. After a three night stay you’ll head north aboard your private jet to Cambodia where you will visit the astonishing temple site of Angkor Wat. Then it’s onward to India, and a stay in Agra, with a view of one of the world’s most iconic buildings, the Taj Mahal, from your bedroom window. The final leg of this incredible journey takes you to Africa, for a stay in the Serengeti National Park, with its breathtaking scenery and fascinating wildlife. Then, boarding your private jet for the last time, you’ll fly back to London with memories of your trip that will last a lifetime. Captain’s Choice Circumnavigation of the Globe tour departs in March 2015. You can start your journey today by calling for a brochure or by visiting our website.

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braZil

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australia

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afriCa

Simply the fineSt way to See the world Call 0845 304 7192 www.CaPtainsChoiCe.Co.uk/roundtheworld


2 COMPILED BY JOHN Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;CEALLAIGH

4

5

the NEXT BIG THING

1 5 3

COMPILED BY JOHN Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;CEALLAIGH

Cruising gets cooler â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and we predict what will come next; plus, overleaf, more news from the world of luxury travel

I

tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to relinquish outdated notions

acre of growing grass, on which guests can play

cards? Or extras tailored to a guestâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tastes â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

or signature suites created by credible

about bland buffets, dull days at sea and

boules, lounge on rugs and drink Pimmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Other

a bouquet of favourite ďŹ&#x201A;owers, say, or a certain

designers? Carpets updated by Christian Lacroix

cheesy cabaret acts. Discerning cruise

companies should consider following suit with

type of scented candle. These little touches

and bed linens by Karl Lagerfeld would be a hit.

passengers can now enjoy exceptional

settings that surprise, delight and inform while

should make passengers feel as though they

spa treatments, cuisine prepared by world-class

breaking up the endless sea views. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to

have arrived at a home from home, and are

\GETAWAY VEHICLES

chefs and enrichment programmes led by

see themed gardens in the style of the Chelsea

travelling with a company that recognises

Even the most spacious cruise ship can feel

renowned experts. But while cruising has

Flower Show and habitats that replicate some of

and values their individuality.

constricting, so we would welcome more

undoubtedly undergone a sea change, still more

those visited for just a few short hours on land.

imaginative opportunities to explore beyond

[

their perimeter. Lindblad Expeditionsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; National

On Solstice Class ships operated by Celebrity

Geographic Endeavour already entices

Scenic Tours river ships feature inside-outside

Cruises, the thoughts of diners inevitably turn

adventurers with its ROV, a remote-operated

how they might be used as a springboard

balconies which, using a one-touch control, can

to (ordering more) drink when they see the

vehicle that can descend to 1,000ft. Introducing

to make cruising even more appealing.

be converted into a covered lounging area should

imposing two-storey wine tower designed by

miniature submarines which can dive for longer

blustery weather strike. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a relatively simple

Adam Tihany, who created the interiors for the

and accommodate more people could be the

X

way to make passengers more comfortable in

Mandarin Oriental in Las Vegas, the Shangri-la

next step for cruise lines. Larger ships,

The ReďŹ&#x201A;ection Suite on Celebrity ReďŹ&#x201A;ection has

their cabins, but we would like to see cruise lines

in Singapore and Aureole restaurant in New York.

meanwhile, should follow the lead of smaller

a pioneering feature: a cantilevered, glass-walled

go farther by introducing personalised comforts.

Further partnerships with sought-after designers

vessels and add helipads. A private jaunt to

shower suspended over the ocean. This month,

How about in-room Kindles pre-loaded with

could help modernise the image of cruising and

a deserted island could be a popular extra with

when Princess Cruises launches Royal Princess,

those books guests have never quite got round

broaden its appeal. Why not follow the example

guests willing to hire an on-board helicopter â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

among the shipâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s novelties will be the SeaWalk â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

to reading? A ďŹ ngerprint-recognition keypad that

set by airlines, with lounges and public areas

a memorable and intimate escape that would

a looped, glass-bottomed walkway hovering 128ft

does away with the annoyance of losing room

conceived by high-proďŹ le interior decorators,

be perfect for anyone planning a proposal.

could be done to encourage travellers to try this often maligned type of holiday. Here, we look

Z

at some of the best innovations and suggest

THE LIFE AQUATIC

COMFORT CONSOLES

DESIGNER DECKS

above the water. What we would like to see next, for guests sequestered in windowless cabins, are digital portholes broadcasting footage of the seascape surrounding the ship, with live feeds and documentary reels ensuring that no guest misses out on the sea life swimming by.

YVIRTUAL DESTINATIONS Royal Caribbeanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Oasis of the Seas invigorated

ILLUSTRATION: TANIA WILLIS

the cruise experience with Central Park, a green space with more than 12,000 trees, plants, vines and ďŹ&#x201A;owers. Dense with tropical foliage and seasonal blooms, it is an incongruous but welcome addition to the ship. Celebrity Cruises, meanwhile, employs full-time lawnkeepers on Solstice Class ships to groom and water half an

Clear thinking SeaWalk, a looped, glass-bottomed walkway (far left) on Royal Princess. Left: a glass wine tower designed by Adam Tihany, a feature on Celebrity Solstice ships

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the NEXT BIG THING

I

ONtrend:

n the last issue of Ultratravel, we reported

on celebrations in Italy marking Lamborghiniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 50th anniversary. This year is

also the 100th birthday of Aston Martin, which announced the milestone by hoisting its new Vanquish model on to the cantilevered helipad of Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Burj Al Arab hotel (right). Back on home soil, the party continues with an appropriately British series of never-to-be-

HYPER-LOCAL DINING

T

repeated events. Convoys of Aston Martins

he horse meat scandal caused

will tour the most beautiful routes in England

consternation for those of us who

and Scotland and a week of events at the

discovered that, all this time, our

companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s headquarters in Warwickshire will

lasagne was equine, not bovine, but

include exhibitions, factory visits and design

it has also provoked wider examination of

master classes. On July 21, the celebrations

what we eat. Luxury retreats are expected to

culminate in Kensington Gardens with the

serve quality produce, but a growing number

largest gathering of Aston Martins in history.

are now focusing on provenance. One trend is for customers to be served â&#x20AC;&#x153;hyper-localâ&#x20AC;? food, another for them to procure the ingredients for their meals themselves. Manhattan is an unlikely source for fresh, natural produce, but guests at the mid-range

z DRIVE AN F1 CAR AT SELFRIDGES

Ensconced in its second century, Selfridges still sets trends in retail. From June 24, the department storeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wonder Room will house a Mercedes AMB Petronas F1 simulator car and virtual wind tunnel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a ďŹ rst in UK retail â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to rouse shoppers left catatonic by the demands of Oxford Street. Sponsored by IWC Schafhausen, the three-week event will also show the watch brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entire Ingenieur collection for the ďŹ rst time.

Nyma hotel can book a foraging tour led by â&#x20AC;&#x153;Wildmanâ&#x20AC;? Steve Brill (above). The naturalist guides visitors through New Yorkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s green spaces in search of edible bark, berries and leaves. In Florence, guests at Villa La Massa can join the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trifolau and his trufďŹ&#x201A;ehunting dog in search of the elusive tartufo bianco (white trufďŹ&#x201A;e). At The Sarojin, Thailand, residents who book the â&#x20AC;&#x153;catch, cook and dineâ&#x20AC;? package can ďŹ sh for snapper using a traditional line, before being taught about local cuisine by the resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s executive chef. Too much effort? It may be sufďŹ ciently reassuring to know that your chosen destination has its own farm. In Turkey, the

NEW HOTELS FOR SUMMER

O

Dionysos Estate hotel sources its wine, olive oil, fruit and vegetables from an organic farm

ccupying a palazzo dating from the 16th century,

just up the mountain. In central Toronto,

the ďŹ rst Italian outpost of Aman Resorts, Aman

meanwhile, the Fairmont Royal York (below)

Canal Grande Venice (below), opens this month.

has developed a rooftop garden with six

With just 24 suites, social areas reserved exclusively

beehives housing 350,000 honeybees.

for resort guests, and two private gardens, the

The resident animal at El Encanto in

property should provide a peaceful refuge for visitors

California is Ellie the cow, whose milk is used

to the city during the Venice Biennale, which runs until

to make the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cheese. However, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

November. For a weekend break closer to home, the

get too attached to the cute Javan rusa deer

â&#x20AC;&#x153;beyond-boutiqueâ&#x20AC;? hotel Brimstone, on the Langdale

found on the Domaine de Bel Ombre

Estate in the Lake District, also opens in June. In July, The Langham, Chicago is set to open downtown in a 52-storey tower designed by Mies van der Rohe.

estate in Mauritius. Come culling season, they

z SEEN IN PRINT

are slaughtered and served in the estateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s two ďŹ ve-star resorts, Heritage Le Telfair

Meanwhile, a new base for exploring the cultural

For some time, 3D printing has been used

offerings of St Petersburg can be found from August,

to make objects â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from vases to a nylon

and Heritage Awali. Anyone with an

when the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Four Seasons hotel

gown for Dita Von Teese (left). Now the

appetite for butchery, however, can join a

opens within a 19th-century Russian royal palace.

race is on to construct the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ďŹ rst

cooking class, called â&#x20AC;&#x153;A pig in a dayâ&#x20AC;?, at Alila

3D-printed house. DUS Architects in

Ubud in Bali. Participants learn how to divide

the Netherlands is attempting to build

a pig into ďŹ ve cuts, before making chorizo,

a full-sized canal house in Amsterdam,

bacon, sausages and ham from the carcass.

using an enormous purpose-built printer to create the plastic components that will form the structure. The ďŹ rm hopes the buildingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s facade will be

FOR THE LATEST IN LUXURY TRAVEL telegraph.co.uk/ ultratravel

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CORBIS

erected by the end of this year.


ULTRA 1 If you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be without glossy lashes, even in or on the water, opt for a waterproof conditioning mascara such as Beaute Waterproof Mascara by Paul & Joe. For an overnight treatment, open a vitamin-E capsule and stroke its contents on your lashes with a Q-tip.

beauty

Sailing, surďŹ ng, snorkelling or simply taking a cooling dip can wreak havoc on skin and hair. Kate Shapland gives advice on protection that wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wash off

2 Sunscreens formulated for the face provide protection and contain antioxidants, said to reduce the signs of ageing. Some have a cosmetic beneďŹ t, too: Shiseido Sun Protection Lip Treatment SPF20 is opaque white and can also be used on the cheeks and nose.

3 Lips can chap quickly on a boat; ďŹ rst they need protection, then a hint of colour. Instant Smooth Crystal Lip Balm, by Clarins, provides both; apply it direct to your lips or over a layer of sunscreen.

4 Keep your hair protected from sea air, salt and UV rays by applying a protective conditioner. Swimcap, by Philip Kingsley, was originally made for the US Olympic synchronised swimming team. Use it as a regular conditioner, too, after washing your hair.

TOMMY CLARKE/IMAGEBRIEF

5 Use a sunscreen that is waterproof, sweat-proof and quickly absorbed, with a broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30. Prosport SPF35 is the choice of pro surfers because it ticks all these boxes and needs to be applied only once for a full eight hoursâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; protection.

Sea defences

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

At its most mineral-rich, seawater can stave off the effects of ageing and help repair chronic skin conditions such as psoriasis. But the sea is also tough on skin and hair, especially when combined with a drying wind and a baking sun. Water reďŹ&#x201A;ects 10 per cent of ultraviolet rays, and sea foam 25 per cent â&#x20AC;&#x201C; so, although a day on (and in) the sea is invigorating, it is a challenge to reap the beneďŹ ts without the drawbacks of parched, burnt, sore skin and hair as dry as straw. On board a boat, you need high-performance products that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wash off each time you dive in and are easily absorbed, so you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t slip around on deck.

1

3

4

5 2

1 Beaute Waterproof Mascara by Paul & Joe, ÂŁ19 (beautybay.com). 2 Shiseido Sun Protection Lip Treatment SPF20 ÂŁ20 (houseoffraser.com). 3 Instant Smooth Crystal Lip Balm by Clarins, ÂŁ18 (clarins.co.uk). 4 Swimcap hair conditioner by Philip Kingsley, ÂŁ20 (philipkingsley. co.uk). 5 Prosport SPF35 waterproof sunscreen ÂŁ17.99 (prosportsunscreen.co.uk).

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;


ULTRA

tech

For summer manoeuvres in, on or under the water, deploy some shockproof technology, says

2

1

Mark Wilson

3

1 Lace loafer ÂŁ100 (0161 222 8048, swims.com). A mix of grippy boat-shoe and stylish loafer, this rubber and nylon slip-on, by Swims, is equally at home on the beach or on deck. A water-resistant exterior keeps splashes at bay, and ventilation slits allow the feet to breathe. 2 Jet ski customised by Venom Design ÂŁ28,999, from Harrods (020 7730 1234). Whether jet skiers want to modify an existing craft or spec up a new one, Venom Design will give it the tech trim. This Sea-Doo model has a waterproof phone, leather upholstery and an iPod sound system. 3 Pentax WG3-GPS camera ÂŁ329 (0870 736 8299, pentax.co.uk). Waterproof to 46ft, this rugged compact has a fast F2.0 lens for sharp underwater snaps. A shake-reduction system helps prevent motion blur and its built-in GPS records the position, time and underwater depth of each picture.

4

5

6

4 Soundshooter speaker ÂŁ40 (0800 048 0408, store.apple.com/uk). This palm-sized Bluetooth speaker, by Philips, is ideal for explosive outdoor tunes. It hooks to a belt or bag with a carabiner, has enough battery life to play eight hours of music, and a microphone enabling hands-free calls via a smartphone. 5 Seamaster PloProf 1,200m ÂŁ6,150 (0845 272 3100, omegawatches.com). Omegaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s indestructible and pioneering 1970 classic has had an update: additions include an ultra-accurate movement and a security button for locking the bezel on deep dives. 6 Archimedes wetsuit ÂŁ495 (01322 605601, huubdesign.com/shopuk). Designed for open-water swimming, this Huub wetsuit is the choice of the Olympic triathlon champion Alistair Brownlee. Support zones keep the body well aligned in the water and there is a speedy one-pull zipper.

Goingcommando 7 Kayak 1 ÂŁ10,100 (mclellanjacobs.com). Made from carbon fibre by a team of Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cup boat-builders, this solo kayak has gold-plated fittings, teak detailing and a tough, UV-resistant finish. Other features can be made to order.

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ULTRA fashion

Holidays off to a tea

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

The art of dressing for the summer social season lies in the understated detail, writes Aurelia Donaldson. Instead of loud, bright look-at-me dresses, opt for delicate pastel hues and sugar-sweet shades of yellow, blue and pink. Keep the accessories playful but minimal: a clutch that makes people look twice, or a killer pair of heels to match your ladylike dress. Perfecting your garden-party etiquette now means that, when abroad, you will be more English rose than English tourist

HAIR AND MAKE-UP: KRYSTLE G USING PAUL MITCHELL; MODEL: EMILY BYRON AT SELECT MODELS; CROQUET SET SUPPLIED BY JAQUESLONDON.CO.UK

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

Ria dress ÂŁ2,380, by Erdem (erdem.co.uk). Malory high-heel pumps ÂŁ375, by Rupert Sanderson (020 7491 2260, rupertsanderson.com). Cosmos pendant ÂŁ175, by Astley Clarke Biography (020 7706 0060, astleyclarke.com). Moonstone ring ÂŁ195, by Astley Clarke Colour (as before). Left: Blue Scent clutch bag ÂŁ795, by Charlotte Olympia (020 7499 0145, charlotteolympia.com). Shot for Ultratravel on the croquet lawn at The Goring (thegoring.com), holder of the British Tea Guild Council 2013 Top London Afternoon Tea Award PHOTOGRAPH BY JOE PLIMMER

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JOHN SIMPSON

UP FRONT

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lady who runs the rugby-and-gastronomy shop opposite â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a delightful person, as you might expect â&#x20AC;&#x201C; phoned our concierge, who phoned a friend, who very kindly wrote a cheque. Our front door stayed unbattered. The rugby-and-gastronomy lady is one of the few survivors from the period of our arrival. Other shops that made the quarter a joy to live in have faltered and changed hands. Her neighbour was an eccentric called Lilac, whose beauty salon, car, dogs, clothes and hair were all coloured a lightish purple, and who spent one evening a week singing at a nightclub. She wrote her own songs, which were heavy with sexy deep breathing and rather arty, if thin on words. My favourite, which she used to sing to me, was â&#x20AC;&#x153;Proust at Cabourgâ&#x20AC;?, Cabourg being the lovely little Norman seaside resort where the madeleine king spent his downtime. That was actually the entire song; she just repeated the phrase over and over again. Many other businesses have gone now: the antique shop, the handyman shop, the ďŹ&#x201A;ower shop where I used to buy peonies for my wife and which was run by two charming elderly gay men, both wearing ill-ďŹ tting wigs. They had a large old dog of indeterminate breed whose smell outclassed even that of the ďŹ&#x201A;owers, and a huge aviary ďŹ lled with noisy, irritated little birds. My son, now seven, used to clamour to go with me. Today a pleasant young couple have taken on the place, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not the same: no birds, no bad smell, no hairpieces, just quick, efďŹ cient service. My kid isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t interested any more. Fortunately the ďŹ n-de-siècle bakery is still going, as is the chicken-rĂ´tisseur who makes approving noises when my wife

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

Thee Obam Obamasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; arrival was the biggest thing thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s happened to our street since the last aristos were guillotined on the Champ de Mars

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

I

f you did Latin at school, you will remember there are certain words which expect the answer â&#x20AC;&#x153;Noâ&#x20AC;?. Nowadays there are certain questions which expect the answer â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ahhhâ&#x20AC;?, uttered in praise and envy. For instance: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Where do you live?â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cape Town.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ahhhâ&#x20AC;Śâ&#x20AC;? Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a big difference if you reply â&#x20AC;&#x153;Johannesburgâ&#x20AC;?, which expects the answer â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ummmâ&#x20AC;Śâ&#x20AC;?, said in commiseration, though in my opinion Joâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;burg is a sharper and more lively place than Cape Town, with a nicer climate. Paris is an archetypical â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ahhhâ&#x20AC;Śâ&#x20AC;? place to live. Sure, it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t what it was when I ďŹ rst went there, in the early 1960s, but where is? Rome? Please. New York? Come off it. London? Well, yes: London is a lot better. But Paris is still what we always longed for it to be, the day before we ďŹ rst went there. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been a part-time Parisian for 14 years. Our small ďŹ&#x201A;at is in one of those long streets which run along the Left Bank parallel to the Seine and fetch up at the Champ de Mars. If the Eiffel Tower fell down, its radio mast would just ďŹ&#x201A;ick the roof of our mid-19th-century building. Ownership makes us feel like locals, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not been a bad investment. Sometimes, though, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been a burden; in 2003, when I reported on the invasion of Iraq and got blown up by the Americans, I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t visit Paris from January to April, and neither did my wife. So we missed seeing the letter from the council warning that if we didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t pay our rates (which weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d forgotten about) theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d come and seize our possessions to the required value. And indeed a Swat team from the town hall duly turned up, armed with a battering ram, to grab their due. Fortunately, the

walks past. Still, our street has been, if not gentriďŹ ed (it has always been full of the elderly upper-middle characters whom my left-wing friends call, disparagingly, â&#x20AC;&#x153;collabosâ&#x20AC;?, short for collaborators) then upgraded to the 21st century â&#x20AC;&#x201C; by which I mean more corporate. When jewellery or hat shops close, they are replaced by estate agents or banks. (Not by chemists, though. The French being a nation of automedicators, there are three within 100 yards.) Six estate agents and ďŹ ve banks have set up around us, outnumbered only (thank God) by eating places. The excellent restaurant on the corner recently awarded me its customer equivalent of a rosette. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been booking tables for Sunday lunch there ever since we arrived in the quartier, and each time Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had to spell out my name laboriously â&#x20AC;&#x201C; until a few weeks ago, when the maitre dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Merci, Monsieur Simpson.â&#x20AC;? After 14 years, apparently I exist. But the restaurant is now very expensive. It doubled its prices after President Sarkozy, a long-time fan, advised President Barack Obama to take his family there. The Obamasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; arrival was the biggest thing thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s happened to our street since the last aristos were guillotined on the Champ de Mars. Twenty cars ďŹ lled with not very secret servicemen shut off the entire block; suited, brawny characters installed themselves in every shop. Except â&#x20AC;&#x201C; no surprise, this â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for Lilacâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Get out of my shop, you gorilla,â&#x20AC;? she yelled in her sort-of English. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you touch me Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll charge you with rape.â&#x20AC;? The brawny suit knew she meant it, and stood outside all dinner long. I miss Lilac. Her old beauty salon was recently bought by a bank.

ILLUSTRATION: ROMY BLUMEL; PHOTOGRAPH: MARTIN POPE

Even in the quiet, civilised Parisian district where he has a second home, the BBC veteran canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help uncovering stories


AFICIONADO

MARC NEWSON DESIGNER

The enriched light and colour of India, old tools in a hardware shop, zooplankton and Japanese connectedness have shaped his vision

There are a few hundred master craftsmen in Japan whose skills are so valuable the government has deemed them national living treasures. When you visit the temples in Kyoto, you realise why. One craftsman might do only a certain type of woodwork, another might make blades for a very specific type of sword, or tie-dye cloth in a very special way. The Japanese have retained ancient crafts and skills that we have lost.

W

hen, as a young boy, Marc Newson (right) discovered the space-age Jetsons â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 1960s comic-book characters who zipped around in perfectly-formed aerocars â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the

Australian knew what he wanted to do: design futuristic products. Today, in addition to more static designs such as his Orgone Stretch sofa (far right), he has created the highly

I

n a new city, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll often wander into a hardware

mobile Kelvin40 personal jet (commissioned by the

shop; you can tell a lot about a culture from its

Fondation Cartier in Paris), the limited-edition Aquariva boat

hardware. Most things we use which have been

(above) and the seats and interiors for the Qantas A380.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;designedâ&#x20AC;? are hideous. Yet, in a local DIY

Since conceiving his beaten-aluminium Lockheed

merchantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shop in Vietnam, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find a perfect

Lounge chaise-longue in 1986, he has spent about half his

little old tool that is beautiful as well as functional.

life travelling around the world, both as a designer and as

§

a judge in international competitions such as the Cartier Concours dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Elegance in Mumbai. Although most of his journeys have been in first class, he says he yearns â&#x20AC;&#x153;to travel in the way I used to when I was younger. Then, there

When I was designing my Nike

was always time to chill and explore the environment and

Zvezdochka shoe [a mesh

do whatever activity was right for that place. I used to ski

bootie with a perforated

like a maniac for about 25 days a year, and go surfing, hiking and camping. Now â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;travellingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; means sitting on

outer shell], one thing that

planesâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; often, on the Qantas seats he designed himself.

influenced me was

â&#x20AC;&#x161;â&#x20AC;&#x161; ANDREW CROWLEY; ALAMY; GETTY

My spiritual birthplace is Japan. Its food is connected to its Shinto temples (right), its engineering to its flower arranging. As a designer, I respond to that â&#x20AC;&#x201C; that thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a thread linking it all makes sense. It gives it a soul. When I arrive there, I feel Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m home.

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â&#x20AC;&#x161;â&#x20AC;&#x161;

I love cars, and I have several: a 1950s Ferrari, an Aston Martin in a weird celadon green, an acid-green 1969 Lamborghiniâ&#x20AC;Ś The feeling of freedom, whizzing through beautiful countryside in a beautiful old car, is like nothing else.

â&#x20AC; 

My pet hate is design hotels. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tell you how much I hate them. What their creators fail to realise is that, even if you are a designer, the design of a hotel isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t the most important thing. What matters is making guests feel like they are at home â&#x20AC;&#x201C; that, and functionality.

a microscopic water creature called a radiolarian (left). The more you look at nature, the more you realise how perfect it is. Need a new pattern? Get out the microscope. Want a great green? Look at some leaves.

Nowhere do you get to experience colour in quite the same way as you do in India â&#x20AC;&#x201C; except, perhaps, in Oz. The light enriches that deep blue of the skies and reflects on the sea, making you look at things in different ways. In Oz, the light brings out the beauty of the landscapes; in India, it brings out the beauty of the people: their saris, their food, their spices.


BEYOND EXPECTATION If you wanted everything you already had at home, you wouldn’t have traveled halfway around the globe.

Legendary tea service that reflects your personal tastes and our local flavors, one of the many reasons why.

stregis.com

a legacy of luxury. now at over 30 of the world’s finest hotels & resorts. africa the americas asia europe the middle east ©2010–2013 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its afliates.


SPOTLIGHT AMERICAS

Rediscover your sense of adventure on a Transatlantic Crossing, or alternatively taking in the superb sights of North and South America. Sailing on board one of our iconic Queens, you’ll visit celebrated landmarks like the Panama Canal, the Golden Gate Bridge and the stunning New York Skyline. By day, you’ll enjoy the great sights of this exciting continent. By night, you’ll enjoy our fine dining, stunning theatre and live music. And whatever time it is, you can sit back and relax with our world-famous White Star Service.

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28 NIGHTS FROM

£3,329pp*

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20 NIGHTS FROM

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10 JAN 2014

2 JAN 2014

18 JAN 2014

Revel in the iconic sights of New York, before taking in Aruba’s Oranjestad, with its timeless Caribbean charm. The epic journey continues through the Panama Canal and the lush rainforest of Puntarenas before arriving at San Francisco.

Indulge in classic Cunard White Star Service as you majestically cross the Atlantic, calling at The Azores, before continuing your amazing adventure to thriving Fort Lauderdale and stunning Miami.

Wave farewell to the Big Apple and set sail for the serenity of the Caribbean’s exotic Aruba and Costa Rica. Then it’s off to the breathtaking Panama Canal and the rainforest-rich Puntarenas before your final stop in San Francisco.

ON BOARD SPENDING MONEY $420 PER STATEROOM† Q403, FLIGHT INCLUDED, IC GRADE

ON BOARD SPENDING MONEY $160 PER STATEROOM† V402, FLIGHT INCLUDED, IC GRADE

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*Vantage fares shown are per person based on two adults sharing an IC Grade inside stateroom on Queen Elizabeth (Q403) and Queen Victoria (V402) and include flight(s), subject to availability. For terms and conditions please refer to the World & Exotic Voyages 2014 brochure. Further information can also be found on www.cunard.co.uk. The brochure contains full descriptions of the voyages, stateroom accommodation and itinerary details, as well as important information on passport, visa and health requirements and booking conditions, which you must read before booking. †On board spending money is per stateroom and varies by voyage duration, is based on the number of nights spent on board and applies to the first two guests sharing a stateroom. ABTA No.V8764


â&#x20AC;&#x161; â&#x20AC;&#x161;â&#x20AC;&#x161;

â&#x20AC;&#x161; â&#x20AC;&#x161;â&#x20AC;&#x161;

MR & MRS MORGAN

She appreciates art, spas and salads; he obsesses about football, Twitter and carbs. Is there anything they agree about at The Carlyle?

ANDREW CROWLEY; DAN GOLDSMITH/SCOPFEATURES

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SHE SAYS

ook up as much as you can,â&#x20AC;? one New Yorker once urged me, â&#x20AC;&#x153;but for Godâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sake, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ever look down.â&#x20AC;? Clearly this guy has never seen the view from the Empire Suite at The Carlyle hotel. From the lofty conďŹ nes of the 2,600sqft duplex â&#x20AC;&#x201C; occupying half of the 28th and 29th ďŹ&#x201A;oors of the recently renovated art-deco hotel â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m rather enjoying looking down. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m high up enough to be spared sightings of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s miniature schnauzer-sized rats, but the afďŹ&#x201A;uent inhabitants of Manhattanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gold coast remain just visible, pleasing pinpricks beneath me. There are penthouses overlooking Central Park that I never imagined existed, castles on rooftops and, above Madison Avenue, two people are exchanging their wedding vows 50 ďŹ&#x201A;oors high in the sky. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t that the most romantic thing youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever seen?â&#x20AC;? I sigh from behind the antique telescope provided in the ďŹ rst of our two sitting rooms. My husband grunts. I know that grunt. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the grunt of a man checking out technological artillery. The grunt of a man staring at one of our nine (yes, nine) ďŹ&#x201A;at-screen TVs, with a remote control in each hand. I throw him an accusatory look. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It is romantic,â&#x20AC;? he assures me, ďŹ&#x201A;icking through the sports channels. I spot iridescent black beads at the corners of his mouth, blini crumbs on the art-deco coffee table and what I suspect is a half-ďŹ nished glass of our complimentary champagne. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Did you start the Beluga and vintage Dom without me?â&#x20AC;? He knows distraction tactics are the only resort after a faux pas of this magnitude. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Did you check out the Cubist paintings upstairs?â&#x20AC;? he stammers. â&#x20AC;&#x153;And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got our spa treatments laterâ&#x20AC;Śâ&#x20AC;? My husband doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t care about either of these things, but he caught me admiring the art earlier and he knows I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to be turned into a Park Lane Princess by some dulcet-toned aesthetician. A 90-minute Sisley intense-hydration facial with Antonina Dutu, the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lead therapist, leaves me feeling just that. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got their expensive-looking skin ($325 worth), the kind where the pores themselves appear to have been sieved out. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve developed their attitude, too. I want to go and bark at shop assistants on Fifth, complain about the size of the olives in my dirty martini down at the legendary Belemans Bar and move a salad around my plate at the new Upper East Side hotspot Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto. Of course the salad was never going to happen â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not with the husbandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s carbicidal tendencies. Three hours, two tasting menus and a Tums tablet later, I am lying on my 2,000-threadcount Frette sheets thinking how worrying it is that, after the initial kick, extreme luxury just feels right. It seems natural, and so right, for there to be a box of LadurĂŠe macaroons on my bedside table, a monogrammed pillow beneath my head and an extensive breakfast menu ticked and hanging on our front door. But my husbandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s freakishly smooth skin? I wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tell him, but that feels wrong on pretty much every level.

A â&#x20AC;&#x153;Watching my daughter munching on her first caviar blini in her bespoke Elise robe made me laugh out loudâ&#x20AC;? Piers

Celia Walden and Piers Morgan stayed at The Carlyle, New York (001 212 744 1600, rosewoodhotels.com). The Empire Suite costs from $15,000 (about ÂŁ9,800) per night.

HE SAYS

s someone who once spent two years living at the Beverly Wilshire in Los Angeles, I consider myself something of a â&#x20AC;&#x153;details manâ&#x20AC;? when it comes to hotels. As with cars, women and houses, they need to tick all the right boxes to have any chance of longevity. (I actually used that phrase when announcing to friends, in front of Celia, two days after our first date, that I was going to marry her. She called it â&#x20AC;&#x153;the most repugnant phrase Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever heardâ&#x20AC;? but walked down the aisle four years later.) Give me a spacious, clean, quiet suite with super-fast service and working gadgets and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m happy. Substitute cramped surroundings, dirt, delays on the breakfast order (when Celiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s early-morning sugar levels are already low), no internet signal or, God forbid, a broken TV remote and I quickly resemble Michael Douglas in Falling Down. The Carlyleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s absurdly luxurious three-bedroom Empire Suite ticked just about every box imaginable. Watching my 15-month-old daughter munching gluttonously on her ďŹ rst (complimentary) caviar blini, while wearing her bespoke robe embroidered with â&#x20AC;&#x153;ELISEâ&#x20AC;? (mine had my Twitter address @piersmorgan â&#x20AC;&#x201C; now thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what I call detailâ&#x20AC;Ś) made me laugh out loud. As did the motorised loo seats that both warmed and rose at the ďŹ&#x201A;ick of a switch. The nine TVs, Apple computer and giant telescope were all entertaining diversions from my wifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pseudo-Brian Sewell impression as she studied the impressive art and dementedly recited the spa menu. Ah, yes, the spa. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll confess, I hate the damn things. I see no real joy in sitting for 90 minutes, listening to Belgian airport music, while someone cracks my scapulas. But I subjected myself to a hammam. It didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hurt, and I whiled away the time silently choosing my all-time-great left-footed Arsenal team, so not entirely squandered. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Your skin will feel amazing,â&#x20AC;? said my therapist. Like I caredâ&#x20AC;Ś For dinner, we ventured to Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto, a few blocks away, on the recommendation of actor Josh Charles from The Good Wife. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Best food in New York,â&#x20AC;? he ventured, â&#x20AC;&#x153;and best-kept secret.â&#x20AC;? Celia tried to order a salad, but I was having none of it. Instead I ordered us baked oysters, octopus, bresaola, rigatone and eggplant, roasted scallops, chef/owner Cesare Casellaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature pork chops, beef tenderloin, and a variety of exquisitely cooked mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, Tuscan fries and beans, followed by a Limoncello dessert and Italian cheeses. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fabulous menu. Trust me, I ate it all. Later, in bed, Celia murmured: â&#x20AC;&#x153;My God, your skin feels extraordinaryâ&#x20AC;Śâ&#x20AC;? I still didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t care. (You think Clark Gable ever cared about his skin?) But I did care about the pillows, which were â&#x20AC;&#x201C; unlike the sumptuous bed itself â&#x20AC;&#x201C; hard and uncomfortable. A ďŹ rm non-box-ticking offence in my book. However, as Salvador Dali said: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Have no fear of perfection; youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll never reach it.â&#x20AC;? The Carlyle tries very hard.

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MyLA A

CONFIDENTIAL

Gwyneth Paltrow, the creative director of Goop, takes Ultratravel on a tour of her favourite Los Angeles haunts following the launch of her new city guides app

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Open house Shutters on the Beach, Gwyneth Paltrowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite hotel in Los Angeles

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Road to happiness Santa Monica, the district where Gwyneth grew up

I

was born in Los Angeles and my early childhood is imprinted in my brain: the memory of palm trees and the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s speciďŹ c light, harsh yet diffused at once â&#x20AC;&#x201C; which I know doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make sense. I remember my dad [the late director Bruce Paltrow] driving me around to meetings when he was trying to get his career going. To me LA is all about being outside. I have great memories of being little in California. Our house in Santa Monica had a pool, a tree house and pomegranate trees in the garden. Whenever Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m in the city I feel my brain works less hard. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not noticing everything everywhere because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all so familiar, whereas in London Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m constantly aware of everything â&#x20AC;&#x201C; such as the blue plaques â&#x20AC;&#x201C; because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still so foreign to me, even though Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve lived there for 10 years. Los Angeles has the quality of home. I ďŹ nd it deeply tranquil. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s my roots. But Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had a love-hate affair with the city over the years. It was fantastic when I was a child, but it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t good for me in my twenties when I was dating and trying to make it as an actress. I felt lonely there. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a difďŹ cult city to discover yourself, because it is so spread out that you never quite know where you are supposed to be. But now, having a job and a family, it is fantastic. My idea for the Goop city guides app, which covers not just LA but New York and London too, came about because Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always been the person my friends call to ďŹ nd out where they should go in a city â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for anything, right down to a good bikini wax. Because Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m so curious, wherever I travel Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m always pounding the pavement, asking locals a million questions. In fact, I originally started Goop (goop.com), my website, as a database for my friends. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s such a big part of who I am and the app came out of that. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s so much information out there that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nice to have someone whose taste you trust. I always ďŹ nd that the hotel concierge in a particular city will recommend a restaurant that they say is great and in fact itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s terrible, so you waste your money. The recommendations on my app come directly from me, so they have to be good. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll ďŹ nd out about the best restaurants that really are tried and tested, and places you wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessarily ďŹ nd on your own, but which a local would know. We designed the city guides app to be like a bookshelf, and I am effectively a curator sharing my experiences with you. Los Angeles isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t considered one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great cities, but I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like a best-kept secret. If you know where to go, a holiday in LA can be a very cool experience. Here are some of my personal picks from the app.

LOS ANGELES HAS THE QUALITY OF HOME. I FIND IT DEEPLY TRANQUIL. BUT Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;VE HAD A LOVE-HATE AFFAIR WITH THE CITY

MY JET LAG CURE As soon as I arrive in LA after a long ďŹ&#x201A;ight, I head to the Be Hive of Healing (behiveofhealing.com), a holistic healing centre in Santa Monica, to see Dr Habib Sadeghi, the founder. He gives me an IV [intravenous therapy] full of vitamins, which is incredible. The lymphatic massage treatment helps with jet lag, too: they wrap you in a blanket and you sweat out impurities. Dr Sadeghi has also changed my life in terms of allergy testing and food.

MY BIG BREAKFAST I usually make breakfast for the family at the weekend, but when I do go out, one of my favourite places is Halâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bar & Grill (halsbarand grill.com) on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice. Its eggs Benedict is delicious, and it also has nightly jazz. The Hotel Bel-Air (hotelbelair.com) has a really good brunch; you sit outside, which is lovely. Huckleberry (huckleberrycafe.com) in Santa Monica is fantastic for breakfast, especially on Sundays. But for the best coffee and mufďŹ ns, go to Caffe Luxxe (caffeluxxe.com). I also love Peetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coffee (peets.com), which is a West Coast thing.

A POST-BREAKFAST WORKOUT If you want to work out after breakfast, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lot of yoga in LA. I like YogaWorks (yogaworks.com) on Montana Avenue in Santa Monica. There are other branches throughout the city. People are obsessed with Maha Yoga (mahayoga.com), in Brentwood, where they blast rock music as you exercise. In California, I like to take advantage of the outdoors. You can run up and down the Santa Monica Steps, on a steep hillside close to the beach. Or you can hike in the Santa Monica Mountains, which I love. I walk for miles, admiring Gwyneth on Goop â&#x20AC;?We designed the app to be

the views â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel as though you are in LA.

like a bookshelf, and I am effectively a curatorâ&#x20AC;?

Closer to the ocean is the Will Rogers State

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FOR ROMANTIC DINNER WITH CHRIS, WE KEEP IT CASUAL AT GIORGIOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S. ITS CORN RAVIOLI WITH TRUFFLE SAUCE IS BEYOND CRAZY

Historic Park, off Sunset Boulevard, which is beautiful. Friends of mine who live inland, on the East Side of LA, hike in Runyon Canyon Park, which they love, because they can take their dogs. Our dog hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t made it to LA yet. For an indoor workout, I go to the new studio of Tracy Anderson (tracyandersonmethod.com), in Brentwood, of which I am a part-owner. Her method is miraculous. She has changed my body and my life. She has a variety of cardio and â&#x20AC;&#x153;band cardioâ&#x20AC;? classes [working with resistance bands that hang from the ceiling]. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a blow-dry bar in the studio if you want to get your hair done quickly. LA has a lot of blow-dry bars.

A DOSE OF RETAIL THERAPY Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great shopping all over LA. For beautiful artisan pottery that makes a great gift, I love Heath Ceramics (heathceramics.com). Just One Eye (justoneeye.com) has one-of-a-kind clothing, art and jewellery. A great thing to do on Saturday morning is go to a farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; market. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re not from a warm climate, you will ďŹ nd the abundance

Fresh LA A gallery at MOCA; Will Rogers State Historic Park; Nantucket scallops at Providence; Abbot Kinney Boulevard

of fruit and vegetables astonishing. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s such fun just to walk along the stalls and see the

a classic LA thing to do. For dessert, Sweet Rose

border of LA and Ventura counties. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a big surf

colours and all the produce â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the huge yellow

Creamery has superb ice cream.

spot, beautiful and off the beaten track.

sunďŹ&#x201A;owers and the bright, sweet California

One other place I go whenever I am in Los

strawberries. They are like sugar.

ABSORB SOME CULTURE

Angeles is Sushi Park, at 8539 West Sunset

EATING OUT, WITH THE CHILDRENâ&#x20AC;Ś

Boulevard, for Japanese food. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not fancy, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

We love The Ivy At The Shore (theivy

amazing. I just eat whatever they serve me.

restaurants.com), which has delicious pizzas and

The idea that LA isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t cultural is untrue; the culture

guacamole with hot home-made tortillas. It has

just comes in a different package. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking

MY KIND OF NEIGHBOURHOOD

really child-friendly food as well as good grown-up

for 400-year-old buildings, obviously itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not the

If you want to get a real sense of LA, stroll along

choices: I always have crab cakes and onion rings.

place to go. LA is not about stepping back in time;

Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice. You can

itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s about â&#x20AC;&#x153;Where are we now?â&#x20AC;? Its real strengths

park and walk and feel like you are steeped in

...AND WITHOUT

are contemporary art, architecture and food. You

a neighbourhood and a culture. The food is

I love Providence (providencela.com), which is

canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go wrong with a weekend visit to MOCA

wonderful, the clothes shops are amazing and

right by Paramount Studios and has incredible

(moca.org), the Museum of Contemporary Art,

unusual, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s alive and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not touristy. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lots

seafood. We eat in a quiet room and the food

which is current and has a good vibe, great

of really interesting stuff. I love the pizzas at

is delicious: American with a French inďŹ&#x201A;uence.

exhibitions and a cool kidsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; area where they can

Gjelina (gjelina.com), one of the best restaurants

I took a friend there recently for her birthday.

do art and play. At Bergamot Station (bergamot

in LA â&#x20AC;&#x201C; my mouth is watering just thinking about

For a romantic dinner with Chris [Martin, her

station.com), in an old railway station, you can

them â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great bar called The Other

husband] we keep it casual, so the setting doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

explore a variety of contemporary art galleries.

Room (theotheroom.com). Heist (shopheist.com)

have to be romantic. We love Giorgioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s,

is a cool clothing store with a chilled Venice vibe.

Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi (giorgiobaldi.us),

MY LUNCHTIME HAUNTS

The other neighbourhood I like is Silver Lake:

which has been there since I was little and

Some people like to go to The Ivy, order its

itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the Shoreditch of Los Angeles, where the cool

has simple dishes made with high-quality

famous chopped salad and watch the celebrities.

kids hang out and there are plenty of hip shops

ingredients. Its corn ravioli with trufďŹ&#x201A;e sauce is

I prefer a turkey burger at Ammo (ammocafe.

and cafĂŠs. I love a little place there called Forage

beyond crazy; I could eat platefuls of it. Oh

com) in Hollywood. I also love Bouchon

(foragela.com), which is really nice and unusual.

my God, it is so good. Yes, I eat pasta all the

(bouchonbistro.com), in Beverly Hills, where I have

People bring in home-grown vegetables and

time â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but I work out all the time too!

oysters and French fries, or chicken.

trade them for meals, and they serve grass-fed

With the family I go to Brentwood Country Mart (brentwoodcountrymart.com), where you

burgers. I like meeting friends for lunch there

MY BIG NIGHT OUT

and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not hugely expensive.

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do nightlife in LA. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go out dancing

can also ďŹ nd great clothing and books. Frida

much, but when I do, the Chateau Marmont

TaquerĂ­a has delicious Mexican food, but

TAKE ME TO THE BEACH

(chateaumarmont.com) at night is fun. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

everyone in my family loves Reddi Chick,

If you want to go to the beach at the weekend,

a great dinner and bar scene at the hotel.

which has been there since I was born; I used to

you have to get out of the city. I like the County

I love to hear music in LA and I always ďŹ nd

go as a child. You sit outside in the courtyard

Line Beach (beachcalifornia.com/county-line-

out whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on at the Hollywood Bowl

eating the best rotisserie chicken and chips â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

beach-ventura.html), which is past Malibu, on the

(hollywoodbowl.com). You sit outside and listen to the music in the beautiful amphitheatre which

GWYN E TH â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S TO P TI P S

is completely open to the sky. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s such a special

ELLEN SILVERMAN; ALAMY; CORBIS; GETTY; NOĂ&#x2030; MONTES

experience; theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have all kinds of concerts, from

WHERE TO STAY

like the Chateau Marmont

best hairdressers in the world.

Radiohead to a classical symphony. You make

My favourite hotel in Los Angeles

(chateaumarmont.com), left, in

Chris McMillan in Beverly Hills has

your own picnic or pick up a picnic basket from

is Shutters on the Beach

West Hollywood. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where

done Jennifer Anistonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hair

somewhere like Joanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on Third (joansonthird.

(shuttersonthebeach.com) in

music industry people stay. It is

forever. I go to Tracey

com) and bring a bottle of wine. To me, that

Santa Monica. I have a house in

kind of ramshackle and falling

Cunningham, who does my

epitomises Los Angeles culture.

LA but thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where I love to stay â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

apart, which is part of its charm.

colour, too. She is my girl. Her

As told to Elaine Lipworth

and where I send my friends. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

People who love it really love it.

place is called MĂŠche

beautiful, cosy and not too

HOW TO LOOK GOOD

(mechesalonla.com).

modern. The beds are really

Karyn Grossman (grossman

comfortable and you have

dermatology.com) is my number

Sonya Dakar (sonyadakar.com),

a great view of the ocean.

one beauty recommendation. She

my crazy Israeli facial lady. I always

You know youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re in California

did a Thermage laser treatment on

feel really good after seeing her.

when you stay there.

me that took ďŹ ve years off my face.

Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just magic â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and a full-on

Anyone who loves music will

Los Angeles has some of the

I also highly recommend

human being, a real ball-buster. To download the Goop city guides app for Los Angeles, London and New York (ÂŁ2.49), see goop.com/apps

 LCKI8KI8M<C


Mauritius

ascending

Five years ago, the Indian Ocean idyll seemed in danger of being eclipsed by the Seychelles and the Maldives. Now, says Nicki Grihault, a swathe of new hotels and gourmet offerings is bringing visitors back to an island on the up

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New heights The Dinarobin Hotel Golf & Spa (far right, main picture) has two new thatched villas on the beachfront. Top left: a kite-surfer at the One Eye surf spot on the south-west coast. Bottom left: Goan-style fish in a poppy-seed crust, on the menu at Rasoi by Vineet, the restaurant at One & Only Le Saint GĂŠran

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Colonial revival The St Regis Mauritius Resort, which opened in March, is built in the style of a colonnaded mansion and has Michelin-starred Atul Kochhar among its chefs

W

hen I first visited Mauritius, as a teenager, the island had just one five-star hotel, Le Saint Géran: a grand colonial classic on a private peninsula on the east coast. The eastern island playground of Île aux Cerfs was a sandbar where tortoises roamed, and the fishing village of Grand Baie – now the island’s tourism hub – was surrounded by deserted white beaches, on which we would spread our picnic blanket and search for cowrie shells. To us, it was perfectly obvious why Mark Twain had declared: “You gather the idea that Mauritius was made first and then heaven was copied.” It was heaven. Nearly 40 years after Le Saint Géran opened, much has changed. Mauritius now boasts the biggest choice of luxury accommodation of any island worldwide – quite a feat for a place the size of Surrey. Against a backdrop of sugar cane, ebony forests and velvety volcanic peaks, dozens of stylish hotels, resorts and, increasingly, villas line the miles of white-sand beaches. Top-notch spas, championship golf courses and gourmet restaurants compete for guests with lures of helicopter transfers, private plunge pools and 24-hour butler service. In the past five years, many former fans of Mauritius have been tempted away by other destinations – the Maldives with their overwater suites and underwater restaurants; the Seychelles with their private villas; the newly peaceful Sri Lanka – but they have started to

return. Why? Not only is the island extremely good value, but it offers warm weather year-round, beautiful beaches, clear seas and genuinely friendly people providing impeccable service. Today, Mauritius has more than 120 hotels, many of them new and some recently refurbished. The hottest of the island’s new beach hotels is Starwood’s St Regis Mauritius Resort, on the exclusive Le Morne peninsula on the south-west coast. At its official launch in March, champagne flowed freely and fireworks exploded in the bay to the strains of a live orchestra. It was a party as grand as any thrown by a sugar baron. But Starwood is not the only hotel group to have raised its game. During the St Regis’s three-year construction – costing $185 million (£120 million) – many other hotels bustled with builders, constructing new suites and villas and sprucing up old rooms. Others introduced facilities ranging from a cookery school and a junior golf academy to a prestigious kite-surfing centre. Beachcomber, the island’s leading hotel group, was the first to resurrect an established property – the Trou aux Biches Resort&Spa, rebuilt, at a cost of £60 million, to create a contemporary five-star, all-suite hotel on one of the best sheltered beaches in the north-west. Sun Resorts then replaced its garish Coco Beach, on the east coast, with Long Beach – an ultra-modern hotel with cool, Californian-style interiors and activities including tennis, Laser sailing and wall-climbing. Relative newcomers among the adult-only hotels include Angsana Balaclava Mauritius, a thatched five-star, suite-only

GETTING THERE Two airlines fly non-stop to Mauritius from Britain: Air Mauritius (020 7434 4375, airmauritius.com) and British Airways (0844 493 0787, ba.com), both from London Heathrow. The best non-direct service is with Emirates (0844 800 2777, emirates.com), via Dubai, from London Heathrow and Gatwick. Return economy fares to Mauritius on direct flights cost from approximately £715 per person. Operators specialising in the island include Luxury Holidays Direct (020 8774 7299, luxuryholidaysdirect. com), Kuoni (01306 747008, kuoni. co.uk), Elegant Resorts (01244 897881, elegantresorts.co.uk), Beachcomber Tours (01483 445 621, beachcombertours.co.uk), and Elite Vacations (01707 371000, elitevacations.com)

THE CUISINE IS A FUSION OF INDIAN, FRENCH, CREOLE AND CHINESE LCKI8KI8M<C 


property in Turtle Bay, and the smaller Baystone Boutique Hotel&Spa in Grand Baie, with its sexy rooftop pool. A third, the Paradise Cove Hotel&Spa, will reopen this October on the north coast, after a light refurbishment. The island’s activities and food have been upgraded, too. At the newly rebranded LUX* Resorts hotels, including Le Morne and Belle Mare, innovations range from pop-up bars and all-day ice-cream carts to cinema on the beach. The Oberoi, Mauritius, in Turtle Bay, has introduced a “Touching Senses” programme intended to connect guests with nature and culture through activities such as stargazing and lessons in Hindu mythology. At the Four Seasons Resort Mauritius at Anahita, women

Fresh looks Clockwise, from top: al fresco dining at Constance Le Prince Maurice, reopened after a facelift last September; the bar at the new Baystone Boutique Hotel & Spa; and a pool at Villas Lencia

THE HOTEL HAS A HIP NEW FLOATING BAR, A SISLEY SPA AND 12 FAMILY SUITES WITH APPLE MAC MINIS

a seawater pool with a sandy bottom and a swim-up bar and stools, plus a new culinary experience in which guests learn about ayurvedic influences in local cooking (Garden Suite from £408, half-board; 00230 204 1888, angsana.com/en/balaclava). Long Beach Since it opened in 2011, with Californianstyle sea-facing rooms overlooking a wide

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beach, this playful village-style resort has been popular with families. Its kids club offers dozens of activities and its family rooms have an annexe kitted out with Nintendo Wii games and televisions, plus sufficient beds for up to three children (doubles from £286, half-board; 00230 401 1919, longbeachmauritius.com). Baystone Boutique Hotel & Spa

WHAT’S NEW IN MAURITIUS

The New York-based architect and designer Albert Angel created this new, avant-garde five-star hotel near Grand Baie, with wave-shaped walls and sofas

THE ISLAND AT A GLANCE

Lakaz Chamarel Exclusive Lodge

and sky-blue lighting. Of the 13 sea-facing

The main tourism hub is in the north,

“Mauritius seems to have been sculptured

suites, the most desirable is the Sky Suite,

around Grand Baie, which has the highest

and painted by a tasteful giant”, wrote

with its spacious outdoor living area and

concentration of hotels, beaches and

Malcolm de Chazal, the Mauritian poet.

exclusive access to the hotel’s rooftop

entertainment. The east coast is the most

Perhaps he was thinking of the lush green

pool. Food is a key attraction at the hotel,

familiar, with its celebrated hotels and

hills of Chamarel, his family estate, and the

which has three à-la-carte restaurants. The

beautiful white sand beaches, while the

setting for this daringly different boutique

2,100sq ft Thal’ion spa boasts the island’s

west coast, which has flatter, calmer

eco-lodge in 12 acres of flower-filled

first floatation tank (£295 for a suite,

waters, is favoured by families. The “green”

gardens, a 15-minute drive from Le Morne

half-board; 00230 209 1900, baystone.mu).

south is wilder, but arguably more

beach. As well as great food, the lodge has

interesting, with a clutch of hotels in the

a tiny spa offering excellent massages –

THE LATEST VILLAS

south-west, close to pounding surf and

and the best view over Tamarin Bay, from

Villa living has arrived on Mauritius, with

dramatic cliffs. All prices below are for two

the new Piton Canot Suite (from £323 for

several new upmarket resorts offering

people sharing, unless otherwise stated.

the suite; doubles from £156, half-board;

plush pool homes for those who want both

00230 483 5240, lakazchamarel.com).

privacy and the services of a chef, butler

THE HOTTEST NEW HOTELS

Trou aux Biches Resort & Spa

and housekeeper. Heritage the Villas,

St Regis Mauritius Resort

Recently reopened after a two-year rebuild

built on a hill in the green south-west,

New York meets the tropics at this

costing £60 million, this all-suite-and-pool-

offers guests access to 11 restaurants, free

colonnaded colonial mansion on a white

villa hotel is on a sheltered, sandy beach

green fees at its award-winning golf course

sand beach on the Le Morne Peninsula.

on the north-west coast. There is water

and the island’s only Beach Club (£395 per

All 172 residences and suites have sea

everywhere – in waterfalls, fountains and

night, b&b, sleeping four; 00230 266 9777,

views, but the Beachfront Grand Suites,

channels, as well as 106 pools. The suites

heritageresorts.mu). At LUX* Belle Mare,

with huge terraces overlooking the One

are huge; the 27 two- and three-bedroom

12 villas have been redesigned by Kelly

Eye kite-surfing hotspot, are its most

villas have decent-sized pools; and there

Hoppen, with fresh clean colours, sunken

covetable. The Simply India restaurant,

are six restaurants, from Italian and casual

baths and gardens with private pools (£595

presided over by the Michelin-starred chef

European to Thai. A state-of-the-art kids

per night, sleeping three; 00230 402 2000,

Atul Kochhar, is worth a trip across the

club and facilities for teenagers make this

luxresorts.com). Dinarobin Hotel

island (doubles from £311, b&b; 00230 403

a family-friendly choice, as do the villas

Golf & Spa has two new four-bedroom,

9000, stregismauritius.com).

with indoor/outdoor living spaces,

thatched beachfront villas (£1,582 per

Constance Le Prince Maurice

barbecue areas and swimming pools

night, b&b, sleeping eight; 00230 401 4900,

This small, secluded all-suite hotel on the

(junior suite from £255, half-board; 00230

dinarobin-hotel.com) and, this autumn,

east coast, reopened after a facelift last

204 6565, trouauxbiches-resort.com).

St Regis will open its four-bedroom villa

September, has a hip new floating bar with

Angsana Balaclava Mauritius

overlooking the One Eye surf spot (00230

live music and DJs, a Sisley spa and 12 new

The island’s newest five-star, all-suite

403 9000, stregis.com/mauritius).

family suites, complete with Apple Mac

boutique hideaway is in Turtle Bay, on the

Standalone villas with five-star service

Minis, as well as a wine cellar and heated

north-west coast – and it is for adults only.

include Villas Lencia, through Elegant

lap-pool. Fitness guru Isabelle Lamant

Of the accommodation choices, the most

Resorts (£715 per night, sleeping six; 00

offers yoga, zumba, personal training

plush are the 600sq ft Beachfront Suites,

230 263 0801, villaslencia.com), and

and a get-fit bootcamp (junior suites

with an infinity pool and direct access to

Sankhara Villas, through the Coco

from £341, b&b; 00230 402 3636,

the beach, and the four-bedroom Imperial

Collection (£1,010 per night, sleeping six;

princemaurice.constancehotels.com).

villa, with butler service. Highlights include

00230 410 5268, sankhara-villas.com).

CHRIS CALDICOTT

have long enjoyed such indulgent treatments as a 24-carat gold facial, while men at the St Regis Mauritius Resort can now check in at the island’s only male grooming salon. Hotel spas have become family-friendly, with Haute Beauté facials for teenagers among the offerings at The Residence Mauritius. On the food front, no other cuisine in the Indian Ocean can match that of Mauritius – a fusion of Indian, French, Creole and Chinese influences. Top chefs who have connections with restaurants on the island include Vineet Bhatia at the One&Only Le Saint Géran, Atul Kochhar at the St Regis Mauritius Resort, and Jean-Jacques Uge at Anahita The Resort. Meanwhile, the Constance Belle Mare Plage hotel runs a culinary festival each year and, this spring, Tom Aikens, holder of two-Michelin stars, gave culinary masterclasses at Beachcomber’s Royal Palm. Other hotels give guests the opportunity to learn about local culinary traditions. At Shanti Maurice, they can dine with an elderly grande dame in her village home, while at Maradiva Villas Resort&Spa, the 2012 Masterchef winner Shelina Permalloo runs a cookery school twice a year, with an emphasis on local dishes, and guests can visit an estate supplying free-range boar and venison. Mauritius has long been the top spot in the Indian Ocean for weddings, and is one of the top five in the world. In 2012, it was voted the world’s best honeymoon destination in the World Travel Awards, its appeal boosted by the growing number of hotels and resorts with a romantic ambience. For thrill-seekers, attractions include the longest zip-line ride in the Indian Ocean, hiking to the top of Le Morne Brabant mountain and tandem skydiving, while the more sedate can visit colonial mansions, botanic gardens and local markets. Last year, visitors to Mauritius reached the million mark for the first time – 10 times the number four decades ago, when the pioneering Le Saint Géran opened. Here is Ultratravel’s guide to the best new places to stay.


A holiday on Guernsey is all about simple pleasures. Like seaside strolls and cliff-top walks. Like good food made with local produce. Like knowing that you don’t have to rush because everything you want is close at hand. There are castles and forts and one of the prettiest harbour towns in Europe. And there’s the excitement that comes with being somewhere different coupled with the reassurance that you’re not far from home.

Discover holidays as they used to be. Order your free Guernsey brochure today. Freephone 0800 028 5353 quoting ref: 5291/3 or go to visitguernsey.com

Getting to Guernsey is easy. Flights take as little as 30 minutes and ferries around 3 hours. FLY FROM

Birmingham, Bristol, East Midlands, Exeter, Gatwick, Glasgow*, Manchester, Norwich*, Southampton and Stansted. *Weekly service in peak season only.

SAIL FROM

Poole, Weymouth* and Portsmouth. *From mid-July.

visitguernsey.com

UK Alderney

Guernsey Herm Sark

France


The Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Most LUXURIOUS HOTEL

Burj Al Arab is the pinnacle of luxury, from its exquisite exterior to the genius of colour within. Experience superlative levels of service, personal butler care and passionate attention to detail in the most luxurious surroundings in the world.

For inquiries and reservations please contact: Tel: +971 4 301 7400 Email: BAAreservations@jumeirah.com

www.burjalarab.com facebook.com/burjalarab twitter.com/burjalarab


In our annual awards, we celebrate the very best of luxury travel as identiďŹ ed by our readers, from the destinations they choose to the people who take them there. Overleaf, we announce the winners and, on page 45, analyse the results

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Best golf resort in the world THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL, SCOTLAND Runners-up La Manga Club, Spain Pebble Beach Resorts, United States St Andrews, Scotland Turnberry Resort, Scotland

Best hotel in the Americas WALDORF ASTORIA NEW YORK Runners-up Bellagio Las Vegas The Beverly Hills Hotel The Carlyle, New York Four Seasons Hotel New York

Best luxury hotel chain FOUR SEASONS Runners-up Mandarin Oriental One&Only Shangri-La Waldorf Astoria

Best city in the world NEW YORK Runners-up Barcelona Melbourne Paris Sydney

Best hotel in Europe FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GEORGE V, PARIS Runners-up Claridgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, London The Dorchester, London The Savoy, London Ritz Paris

Best short-haul airline BRITISH AIRWAYS Runners-up easyJet Lufthansa Monarch Swiss

Best cabin crew SINGAPORE AIRLINES Runners-up British Airways Emirates Etihad Airways Virgin Atlantic

Best large luxury tour operator KUONI Runners-up Abercrombie&Kent Cox&Kings Hayes&Jarvis Trailfinders

Best luxury cruise line CUNARD Runners-up Crystal Cruises P&OCruises Seabourn Silversea Cruises

A WORLD OF EXCELLENCE Readers voted across 20 categories, from best hotel, airline and airport to favourite city and country. Each category produced a winner and four runners-up â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Ultratravel 100, displayed on our celebratory map  LCKI8KI8M<C


Best river cruise line VIKING RIVER CRUISES Runners-up Ama Waterways Avalon Waterways Scenic Tours Uniworld

Best airline lounge VIRGIN ATLANTIC CLUBHOUSE, HEATHROW TERMINAL 3 Runners-up British Airways, Heathrow Terminal 5 Emirates, Dubai Qatar Airways, Doha Singapore Airlines, Changi

Best hotel in the Middle East BURJ AL ARAB, DUBAI Runners-up One&Only Royal Mirage, Dubai Park Hyatt Dubai Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri, Abu Dhabi Shangri-Laâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Barr Al Jissah Resort&Spa, Muscat

Best hotel in Asia RAFFLES SINGAPORE Runners-up Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong The Peninsula, Hong Kong The Upper House, Hong Kong

Best airport in the world CHANGI, SINGAPORE Runners-up Schiphol, Amsterdam Dubai International London Heathrow Terminal 5 Hong Kong International

Best hotel in the world BURJ AL ARAB, DUBAI Runners-up Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris Le Touessrok, Mauritius Raffles Singapore The Savoy, London

Best small luxury tour operator ELEGANT RESORTS Runners-up Audley Travel Nomadic Thoughts Scott Dunn Simpson Travel

Best hotel in Africa and the Indian Ocean LE TOUESSROK, MAURITIUS Runners-up Banyan Tree Seychelles Cape Grace, Cape Town The Oberoi, Mauritius One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives

Best long-haul airline VIRGIN ATLANTIC Runners-up British Airways Emirates Qantas Singapore Airlines

Best country in the world AUSTRALIA Runners-up Italy New Zealand South Africa United States

Best hotel in Australasia SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, SYDNEY Runners-up Emirates Wolgan Valley Resort&Spa, New South Wales Qualia, Great Barrier Reef The Langham, Sydney The Langham, Melbourne

LCKI8KI8M<C 


In association with

Unfasten your seat belt The bar in the redesigned Upper Class cabin of Virgin Atlantic, winner of the best long-haul airline and best airport lounge categories

A toast to our winners

C

onsistency is the hallmark of any credible awards – even if it might not make for

North American hotels, three are in the Big Apple). Australia takes top honours again as

sexy headlines. In a world as competitive – and emotive – as travel, earning the

favourite country, with the Lions Tour and the Ashes tests set to make this a memorable

trust of discerning holidaymakers is vital. Once gained, the great names in

year for the travelling sports fan. Let’s just hope the ULTRA is the only thing Australia wins.

travel are loath to let this slip as they upgrade, reinvent, innovate and restore to

ensure that they are on the Ultratravel 100 list year after year. Among those that retain their respective regional hotel awards are the Waldorf Astoria New York, Raffles Singapore, Le Touessrok in Mauritius and the Shangri-La Hotel in Sydney. My recent stay in the penthouse suite of the Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris (a tough

It is no surprise that, in the aviation categories, Singapore Airlines takes pride of place for its cabin crew and British Airways for its short-haul services, while Changi, Singapore, is voted best airport. Less expected is the double triumph of Virgin Atlantic, awarded best long-haul airline and best airport lounge (for the Clubhouse in Heathrow’s Terminal 3). It’s an impressive feat given the small size of the airline – but Virgin Atlantic has

assignment I know, but someone had to do it, see page 69), confirmed to me why this hotel

always punched above its weight, whether by employing Vivenne Westwood to design its

continues to dine at the head of Europe’s top table, while Four Seasons – a byword for

cabin-crew uniforms, challenging BA with the launch of its domestic carrier Little Red,

consistent service – has deservedly kept the title of best hotel chain. However, it is the

or taking in-flight flirting to a new level on Virgin America by allowing passengers to send

Burj Al Arab in Dubai that takes the highest hotel honour – for best hotel in the world,

a drink and a text to others, using their seat-back technology. Other innovations include

a brand-new category this year. The award is testament to Jumeirah’s innovation and

a redesign of its Upper Class cabin (with a new futuristic bar), “gate to gate” entertainment

commitment to great service, not to say its healthy marketing budget. How many more

(so passengers don’t miss the climax of a film) and increased hand-luggage limits.

ways can there be of using its helipad in a cover shoot (see The next big thing, page 14)? Both Kuoni and Elegant Resorts, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, are

The same fun and sassiness can still be found in the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse seven years after it opened – martinis at the cocktail bar, manicures at the Cowshed

again worthy winners in the tour operator categories; Viking and Cunard still rule the rivers

spa, multiscreen sports-viewing in the Den and refined plane-spotting in the Grey

and seas; and Gleneagles remains our readers’ favourite golf resort, a year before the

Goose Loft bar. If only they could find a chairman who understood the value of PR.

Ryder Cup party comes to town. New York is voted favourite city (and, of the five preferred

Charles Starmer-Smith, editor, Ultratravel

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U LT R A S A I L

your guide to heaven on water

Drawbridge to heaven Panthalassa moored in Caribbean waters, with its hydraulic teak swimdeck lowered for watersports Photographs by ADAM PARKER Styling by ARABELLA BOYCE

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The seas are now plied by 850 superyachts over 164ft in length â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and they offer every conceivable entertainment, from spas and cinemas to submarines. Nigel Tisdall steps aboard Panthalassa to discover a moneyed world that is truly super

SUPER MODELS LCKI8KI8M<C 


ExplorE. DrEAM.

DISCoVEr.

What is it that makes Silversea the benchmark of luxury cruising? The cuisines by Relais & Châteaux? The all-inclusive luxury? The sumptuous suites with Ferragamo soaps... the butler who anticipates your every need? Or perhaps it is Silversea’s European heritage that so appeals to well-travelled, international guests. Aboard our ships you can explore secluded harbours less touched by time and tourists. Insider access in the world’s great cities. Bespoke tours so that you can roam where you please. Hardly what you would expect on an ordinary cruise. But then this is small-ship cruising. And we are Silversea.

For more information or to book, please call Silversea on 0844 251 0841, visit www.silversea.com or contact your travel agent.


U LT R A S A I L

O

n the mosaics mosa aics adorning their lavish Mediterranean villas, the Romans included scenes of cherubs riding gleefully on the backs of dolphins. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a delightful fantasy, and yet, nearly 2,000 years later, here I am doing the next best thing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; charging through the oh-so-blue waters of the Caribbean on the back of a Seabob Cayago F7. Otherwise known as an underwater scooter, the silent, battery-powered bullet looks a bit like a turbo-charged dust-buster but can travel at 12 knots and dive to 130ft. Riding one is fun, especially off the deserted white-sand beaches of Anguilla â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but, at that speed, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good idea to secure your trunks or bikini bottom tightly. It certainly helps that my electro-dolphin, which weighs 64kg (about 10 stone) but somehow still ďŹ&#x201A;oats, has been lowered into the sea from a hydraulic, teak-decked swim platform that descends like a divine drawbridge from the stern of a superyacht. An athletic deckhand in a liveried rash vest accompanies me towards the shore; cold towels and a freshwater shower await my return. So far, so yes please â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for this is just one of many â&#x20AC;&#x153;toysâ&#x20AC;? (as they are unashamedly known) available when you charter a superyacht. Welcome to the truly seductive world of Panthalassa, a 56m (184ft) come-and-race-me sailing yacht, registered in London and with a British skipper. On board there are also three jet skis, three Ribs, waterskis, wakeboards, paddleboards, scuba gear and kite-surďŹ ng equipment â&#x20AC;&#x201C; plus all the tents, beanbag seats, pop-up bars and ďŹ&#x201A;aming torches needed to hold an impromptu party on a moonlit beach of our choice. As we all know, some superyachts go OTT on all this, with their swimming pools, cinemas and inďŹ&#x201A;atable playgrounds, not to mention mini-submarines and helipads. Panthalassa has a different agenda: true class. A Seabob costs about ÂŁ11,000 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and we have six, natch. But what really puts the S in this SY (as we in-crowders call them) is that they have all been painted in a bespoke shade of DuPont technical grey that matches the colour of our hull. And that, we must agree, is darn cool. Superyachts are generally deďŹ ned as being over 35m (115ft) long and come in two types: motor-only, for posing, partying and inshore sailing; and the masts-and-sails version, for maritime heritage and thrills. About a third of charter superyachts fall into the second category â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for me, the only way to go as it offers the best of both worlds.

Premier crew An Australian chef, immaculately dressed deckhands and stewardesses in white polo shirts satisfy every whim on Panthalassa, shown under full sail (above)

Built in 2010 by the Italian naval architects Perini Navi, Panthalassa is designed to maximise comfort. Superyacht interiors come in countless styles, from country house to porn baron, but here you get a one-off temple of repose created by Foster+Partners with natural light streaming into the decks below thanks to a masterly use of skylights, glass walls, slimline staircases and oversized portholes. Multi-million-pound vessels like this carry a maximum of 12 passengers, as having more opens up a viperâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nest of regulations and licences. Many come with an ostentatious ownerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s suite, but on Panthalassa all six cabins are the same size, kitted out in a serene and contemporary whirl of Danish leather, Italian marble, French toiletries and carefully-unthrown cashmere throws. Up on the ďŹ&#x201A;ybridge, a fan-shaped array of sunbathing pads lies ready and waiting with plush towels, chilled water, nibbles and generously-stocked baskets of Lancaster sunscreen. In the evening, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to turn on the soft lighting as the cocktails and canapes arrive in the Caribbean warmth, and our team leader, Captain Greg Butler Davis, shows up in his smart black uniform to tell envy-inducing tales of how Panthalassa has voyaged up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea and sailed past Stromboli at night as the volcano blazed beneath the stars.

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SURPRISES RANGE FROM DELIVERING 1,000 RED ROSES TO WINCHING A BRANDNEW CAR ON BOARD

Jet set A jet ski (top), one of three on Panthalassa, is ideal for exploring the beaches of Anguilla (above). Left: the main living area of Panthalassa, designed by Foster+Partners, complete with art by Andy Warhol

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colleagues, entertaining friends, loving your family and indulging yourself. Wealthy clients now expect superyacht brokers to deliver a truly spectacular experience, and have no qualms about making exceptional demands. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You name it, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve done it!â&#x20AC;? says Charlie Birkett, partner and group CEO of Y.CO, which has access to the largest, most exclusive superyachts in the world. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It could be delivering 1,000 red roses to surprise the chartererâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s girlfriend, having a brand-new car winched on board as a birthday present, or organising a last-minute wedding in PortoďŹ no, with the crew handling every detail in just a few days.â&#x20AC;? Nor does this exclusive and highly-tailored service stop once you step ashore. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We can open all sorts of secret doors,â&#x20AC;? says Nicholas Edmiston, chairman of Edmiston&Company, which publishes a lavish directory of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 100 ďŹ nest yachts available for charter. â&#x20AC;&#x153;MagniďŹ cent Venetian palazzi, fabulous gardens in the south of Franceâ&#x20AC;Ś we know all the owners.â&#x20AC;? Y.CO has likewise worked with the bespoke holiday experts Based On A True Story (Boats), which specialises in â&#x20AC;&#x153;magic-carpet-rideâ&#x20AC;? luxury experiences. Given a brief to â&#x20AC;&#x153;keep the children entertainedâ&#x20AC;? on one superyacht holiday in the Mediterranean, it arranged for junior guests to be taken into the souks of Morocco to buy an old teapot that was then found to conceal an ancient message and password. This in turn led to a trip into the desert to meet a Tuareg nomad, triggering an elaborate seaborne treasure hunt that concluded with a piratical ďŹ esta in Majorca complete with blazing guns and ďŹ reworks. While itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s feasible for a group of friends or two families to get together to charter such yachts, it is far more common for one person to treat everyone else. Where you go depends on your taste for adventure â&#x20AC;&#x201C; summer in the Med, winter in the Caribbean is the traditional track, with superyachts switching between the two in a glittering transhumance. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Some clients spend ÂŁ5 million or more on a superyacht holiday,â&#x20AC;? says Nicholas Edmiston, â&#x20AC;&#x153;so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s understandable that they want to be seen doing so.â&#x20AC;? That means anchoring off St Tropez in high summer rather than exploring the shores of Java, although you can still ďŹ nd out-of-the-way spots in the Med. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Try the west coast of Corsica,â&#x20AC;? Edmiston says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;which has beautiful beaches that can only be reached by sea with no one there.â&#x20AC;? Modern communications, together with the increasing size and comfort of yachts, make it easier to hop on and off at any point â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with the help of private jets and helicopters. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen a rise in enquiries for furtherďŹ&#x201A;ung places such as the Belize Cayes, the GalĂĄpagos and

MODEL: ELENA JUVONEN AT PROFILE MODELS. PAGE 49: LISA MARIE FERNANDEZ SWIMSUIT, ÂŁ330 FROM NET-A-PORTER.COM; BOMBITA HEELS, ÂŁ560 BY MANOLO BLAHNIK (020 7352 8622); MATRIX SUNGLASSES BY CELINE, ÂŁ200 AT HARRODS (020 7730 1234). PAGE 51: SEE CREDIT ON CONTENTS PAGE. THIS PAGE: ASYMMETRICAL SILK SWIMSUIT BY LOUIS HEAL, PRICE ON APPLICATION (LOUISHEAL.COM); BOMBITA HEELS (AS BEFORE)

His 10-strong crew is equally decorous, predominantly British with an affable style that mixes being natural with knowing your place. Even the old-salt chief engineer wears a spotless boiler suit, while the lithe and lively stewardesses sport white polo shirts and short skirts, as if about to play tennis rather than serve up lobster salads and citron tarts prepared by our cheery Aussie chef. Judging by the cushions scattered about the decks (I count 111, then fall asleep), the orchestrator of this ÂŁ30-million nautical Neverland likes to be comfortable. Superyacht etiquette decrees that the ownerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity is not revealed, but hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a tip: look in the visitorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; book. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m initially curious about the style-savvy rich-lister whose taste chimes with mine, but as the days go by it matters less. After all, few us know much about God, yet weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re happy loaďŹ ng around in His fabulous creation. Owning or chartering one of these Ferraris-of-theseas is avowedly statement-making. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s about impressing


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Antarctica,” reports Charlie Birkett. “These are usually from regular charter clients who have visited the more traditional destinations and are looking for something off the beaten track. As yacht design evolves, longer-range charters are making such destinations more accessible.” You could equally go sailing in Alaska, the Maldives or Papua New Guinea – but one thing is certain, there will be no place for mud. In the perfectionist world of superyachts, these beauty queens must look as new and shiny as the day they were launched. Immense amounts of labour and materials – costing £2.6 million a year in the case of Panthalassa – are devoted to maintaining that “straight-out-of-the-box” look. My voyage starts in the Isle de Sol Yacht Club, the newest superyacht marina on the French-Dutch Caribbean island of St Martin/St Maarten, where the painting, buffing and polishing is ceaseless. Up to 40 superyachts can berth here, and their names say it all. Four Wishes. Imagine. One More Toy… izarrely, the only way in and out of this megarich powwow is through a small channel with a scruffy bridge raised only three times a day. The wind is up, so leaving without a scratch to the sides (or worse) means Captain Greg is in for an adrenalin-pumping moment. Skippering a superyacht is an impressive feat of multi-tasking, in which you don’t just sail a huge and complex machine. You also need to know everything from how to fix bilge pumps and the intricacies of Croatian VAT to the best way to bag a top dinner table during the Monaco Grand Prix. We do it, just, and Greg celebrates by playing “Pinball Wizard” at full blast on the sound system. Needless to say, this isn’t any old hi-fi; it’s a no-expense-spared extravaganza featuring Apple-based Savant technology that also lets users adjust everything from the blinds to the air con to the security cameras from a smartphone touchscreen. Then there’s the satellite broadband, the video-conferencing saloon, the 60in flat-screen TV with a Kaleidescape system offering 500 movies on demand. You don’t get mega-rich without being a control freak. Out on the blue ocean, however, there is a delicious sense of freedom. Now where shall we go? St Barths? Saba? The BVIs? It’s up to us. The crew lower the keel, we turn our head to the wind, then up goes the mainsail on a mast that soars to 59m (190ft). But if you want to pull a rope, forget it. Everything is done from two consoles with enough buttons and switches to fly to the moon. Soon we are bouncing over the waves, hitting 12 knots and leaning at a jaunty 14 degrees. The sun is out, the engines are off, the brown boobies are saying hi… Up above us, Panthalassa’s vast sails do their bends and stretches, more than 16,000sq ft of iceberg-white triangles tangoing with the warm wind. Suddenly the clichéd bubbles-and-bling image of superyachting seems ridiculous. The supreme way to enjoy a charter like this, I realise, would be to spend part of your holiday competing in a superyacht regatta. That’s when the rock-star crews come on board, and the fun really starts. The Bucket in St Barths, the Loro Piana in Sardinia, Les Voiles de St Tropez – oh yes, I’m free. Are you?

Sails of the century The finest superyachts include classics such as Christina O (above), as well as new models such as Vertigo (left) and Twizzle (below)

B

5 OF THE BEST SUPERYACHTS VERTIGO

TWIZZLE

CHRISTINA O

The winner of 10 design awards, Vertigo

This serial award-winner combines the

This boat’s guest list gives a clue to its style:

is one of the fastest superyachts on the

world’s most advanced technology with

JFK, Jackie Kennedy, Winston Churchill,

seas, capable of doing 20 knots under sail

refined interiors of pale aged oak and

Frank Sinatra… Once owned by Aristotle

(faster than many motor yachts), thanks

cream. Carrying 19,000sq ft of sail on

Onassis, and named after his daughter, this

to more than 54,000sq ft of Kevlar carbon

two masts, this is a yacht built for speed

is more ship than yacht, with 18 staterooms,

sails. Unique features include a hull that

(17 knots) but also for relaxation: guests

Michelin-standard food, a Six Senses spa,

folds down to create a “beach club”,

can lounge on one of the cream sofas

a pool lined with mosaics, plus (of course)

extendable glass panels to protect against

lining its capacious aft decks, sheltered

a helipad. The two tenders are as glamorous

the elements, and urban-style interiors

by the largest sheets of triple-glazed

as the ship itself, fashioned from mahogany

designed by Christian Liaigre. On-board toys

curved glass ever made, or recline in

and finished in brass; additional toys include

and entertainment range from tenders and

the calmly decorated cabins finished in

dinghies, waveriders and windsurfers.

dinghies to a gym overlooking the water.

cashmere, soft leather and silk.

Details Sleeps 34; length 99m/325ft;

Details Sleeps 12; length 67m/220ft;

Details Sleeps 8; length 57.5m/189ft;

from £390,000 per week

from £190,000 per week (ycoyacht.com).

from £175,000 (burgessyachts.com).

(camperandnicholsons.com).

HOW TO DO IT

TALITHA

PRANA

CHARTERING A SUPERYACHT

Panthalassa (sypanthalassa.com) can be booked through Y.CO –

Owned by the Getty family, this is one of

Refitted in 2011, and kitted out with more

Cost is not an issue for most superyacht

The Yacht Company (020 7584 1801, ycoyacht.com). A seven-night

the most glamorous, old-fashioned vessels

toys than most (from Laser dinghies,

clients, but prices – generally per week –

charter costs from £131,335 in the Caribbean, or £173,337 in the

available for charter. There is no sign that,

wakeboards and kiteboards to a pair

are negotiable and brokers are competitive.

Mediterranean. A regatta package, including a professional racing

during the Second World War, she sailed out

of Seabob lightweight scooters), this

Late bookings may be discounted, and

crew, starts at £167,471.

of Pearl Harbour with six anti-aircraft guns

is a yacht for active types. Food-lovers

rates tend to be better outside high season

and 110 US Navy personnel on board; today,

are catered to as well, by a chef who

(June or September in the Mediterranean,

and hilly island of St Martin/St Maarten is a popular starting point

she is all polished wood, swags, silver and

specialises in healthy cuisine. For gentler

and mid-January to late-February in the

for Caribbean yacht charters and has 13 marinas, a lively beach

art-deco detailing. By day there are two

activity, a yoga teacher is on board to give

Caribbean). Budget another third of the

scene and many fine restaurants. Air France (0871 663 3777,

Yamaha WaveRunners to play on (as well as

daily lessons – and inside is a high-tech

price for costs such as food, drinks, fuel,

airfrance.co.uk) flies from eight UK airports via Paris; return fares

ocean kayaks, kitesurfers, Laser dinghies,

entertainment system, with both a cinema

port fees and incidentals, and an additional

range from £645 (economy) to £2,230 (business class). Stay at the

diving gear, waterskis, and more), and at

and a karaoke box. Although extremely

10 per cent for gratuities. VAT is levied

just-refurbished La Samanna (0845 077 2222, lasamanna.com)

night more than 200,000 CDs to listen to

comfortable, the superyacht cruises at

in some countries. Superyachts can be

in St Martin, an Orient-Express hotel with 83 ocean-view rooms

and 1,000 movies to watch.

an exhilarating 12 knots, powered by

chartered through specialist brokers

and suites, plus four three- and four-bedroom villas set on cliffs

Details Sleeps 12; length

26,000sq ft of sail or a 1,200hp engine.

(see Details above). Useful websites

overlooking a long and virtually private white sand beach (a deluxe

75.3m/247ft; from £240,000 per week

Details Sleeps 12; length 51.7m/170ft;

include boatinternational.com, superyachts.

room costs from £544). Transfers from the airport take 15 minutes.

(edmistoncompany.com).

from £160,000 per week (fraseryachts.com).

com and superyachttimes.com.

Split almost equally into French and Dutch sides, the green

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prices based on 4 Dec ’13 Inside

prices based on 3 Dec ’13 Inside

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Departures Nov 13 - Mar 14 VISITING: Philipsburg (St. Maarten), Anguilla (B.V.I), Virgin Gorda (Tortola), Norman Island & Soper’s Hole (Tortola), Jost van Dyke (B.V.I), Basseterre (St. Kitts), Gustavia (St. Barts) COMPLIMENTARY AIRPORT CHAUFFEUR SERVICE

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Opening Hours: Monday to Friday 9am to 9pm, Saturday 9am to 7pm & Sunday 10am to 6pm. Terms and conditions apply for full details please visit virginholidayscruises.co.uk/legal. *Lead prices are based on two passengers travelling and sharing an interior stateroom and standard hotel room where applicable and include all applicable taxes and fuel surcharges, correct at the time of print and subject to change. Prices exclude discretionary daily services charges payable onboard or in advance and auto gratuity charges payable on board. Flights are included and will depart from a London airport (unless otherwise stated). Offers are for new bookings only and can be made via your local Virgin Holidays retail store or by calling direct; offers are subject to availability and change. A non-refundable booking fee may apply, please ask at time of booking. Complimentary Chauffeur Service is for the first 75 miles each way to and from the airport, costs will be given at the time of booking for any additional mileage. Offer is noncombinable with other discounts, promotions and savings unless stated. Virgin Holidays Cruises are ATOL (2358) protected and ABTA (J1138)/(W9716). All the flight and flight inclusive holidays featured are financially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you pay you will be supplied with an ATOL Certificate. Please ask for it and check to ensure that everything you booked (flights, hotel and other services) is listed on it. Please see our booking conditions for further information about financial protection and the ATOL Certificate go to atol.org.uk/ATOLCertificate. All offers are valid for Virgin Holidays Cruises division of the Virgin Holidays Group only, for definition visit virginholidays.co.uk/ourfamily. Registered in England 1873815. Registered office; Company Secretariat, The Office, Manor Royal, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 9NU. Credit Card payments by VISA/Mastercard incur a 1.3% surcharge and 2.6% for AMEX. All calls charged at 5p per minute from a BT landline, calls from mobiles or other networks may vary.


DISCOVER A DIFFERENT VIEW OF THE WORLD Europe • Russia • Asia Inspiring destinations, extraordinary comfort, exceptional cuisine, unrivalled service and fascinating tours – there is no more rewarding way to see the world than on a Viking river cruise. With prices starting from just £1,095pp for an 8-day European river cruise holiday, come and discover a different view of the world with Viking.

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A cruise can be the conduit to unique and extraordinary experiences on land. Sue Bryant chooses 10 of the best Flights of fancy On the Kamchatka Peninsula, Russia, cruise passengers can take a helicopter ride over active volcanoes. Below: Shanghai by vintage sidecar, and hot-air ballooning above the North Pole

SHORE LEAVE U LT R A S A I L

G

one are the days when cruise-ship

Book it Viking River Cruises (020 8780 7995,

excursions involved clambering

vikingrivercruises.co.uk) is offering a 13-day

Fly over active volcanoes

aboard a minibus or taxi for

Waterways of the Tsars voyage between Moscow

When it comes to up-and-coming expedition

a whistlestop tour of a port city,

and St Petersburg from £2,295 per person (on

hotspots, the Kamchatka Peninsula in the

taking in all the obvious sights.

selected dates in 2014), including flights. The

Russian Far East is one to watch. This

Hermitage excursion costs £99 per person.

necklace of smoking volcanoes, rising from

Today, trips ashore are all about exclusivity, adventure and giving passengers access to an unforgettable one-off experience. Here are some examples to whet the appetite. ST PETERSBURG, RUSSIA

See the vaults of the Hermitage

KAMCHATKA, RUSSIA

the icy tundra that fringes the Pacific Ring of THE NORTH POLE

Float high above the ice cap

Fire, has caught the attention of a few cruise lines – not least the French-owned Compagnie du

Only 250 people each year can claim to have

Ponant, which is offering a two-hour helicopter

stood at the North Pole – and most of these have

flight over the Valley of Geysers and the Uzon

travelled there with Quark Expeditions. The

volcano caldera. After landing among boiling mud

Only a fraction of the three million works of art

adventure specialist goes one step further, too, by

and artefacts in the Hermitage museum’s

allowing its passengers to photograph the “top of

collection is on display; the rest is housed in

the world” from a tethered hot-air balloon. The

a series of enormous vaults. Viking River Cruises,

cruise line’s Russian icebreaker, 50 Years of

which has been offering itineraries in Russia since

Victory, powered by a nuclear reactor, sets out

1997, has used its long-standing links to secure

from Murmansk and crashes its way through

access to these vaults for guests on its Russian

pack ice for a week to reach its destination at

waterways voyages. Working closely with

90 degrees north. Just short of the Pole, the

Geraldine Norman, the advisor to the director of

balloon is inflated and guests can hover, four at

the museum, it has developed The Hermitage

a time, above the magnificent icy wilderness and

Behind Closed Doors excursion, which includes

peer down on the ship, wedged in the ice below.

a tour of the museum with an art historian

At the Pole itself Quark holds a barbecue on the

(before the crowds arrive) and a visit to the

ice with a champagne toast to mark the occasion.

private vaults to see 19th-century frescoes,

Book it Quark Expeditions (0808 120 2333,

treasured sculptures, furniture and imperial

quarkexpeditions.com) is offering North Pole

carriages belonging to the Romanov family, as

voyages from £14,190 per person, including most

well as some of the priceless diplomatic gifts

excursions. During 2013, the balloon flight costs

that were bestowed on Stalin.

£190 (prices for 2014 have yet to be announced).

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holes, hot streams and more than 40 steam

voyage includes an “after-hours” evening in

vents in the Valley of Geysers, passengers set off

a historic or unusual venue, with music and

on foot through an other-worldly landscape. After

entertainment on tap and the opportunity to

a second landing in the Uzon caldera – a lunar

sample the local cuisine in an authentic setting.

landscape of vivid colour, caused by mineral

On this cruise, it is rum punch at sunset followed

deposits from more than 1,000 hot springs –

by jerk chicken, plantain rolls and sweet potato

there is a chance to catch sight of the brown

balls, with a live band to raise the tempo.

bears and reindeer that roam this remote area.

Fairview was built in the 18th century as the

Book it Compagnie du Ponant (0800 980 4027,

home of a French military commander, but it has

ponant.com) is offering a 10-night cruise from

since been inhabited by a host of prominent

Petropavlosk to Otaru in Japan on board the new

locals, including James Stephen, an abolitionist

expedition yacht Le Soléal, departing on October

lawyer and the great-grandfather of the novelist

5, from £3,969 per person, including flights from

Virginia Woolf. The house has recently been

Paris. The excursion costs £1,039 per person.

restored, and guests can wander through the rooms, including the original kitchen and

THE UPPER RHINE, GERMANY

Have a baroque banquet The luxury river-cruise operator Scenic Tours, which offers such perks as 24-hour butler service and inclusive drinks, has introduced a new

bathroom, and cross the cobbled courtyard Culture club Clockwise, from above: The Hermitage in St Petersburg, which does private tours; Lucia Odescalchi, who runs jewellery classes in Rome; swimming with sea lions; and Formula 1 in Bahrain

to the lush gardens. Book it Azamara Club Cruises (0844 493 4016, azamaraclubcruises.co.uk) is offering a 12-night Frenchmen and Virgins voyage – a round-trip from

evening event on selected Rhine cruises. From

Miami visiting the Virgin Islands and the eastern

the riverside town of Karlsruhe in Germany,

Caribbean – on board Azamara Quest, departing

guests are taken to the early-18th-century Rastatt

on November 26, from £1,952 per person,

Palace. The oldest baroque residence in the

excluding flights. There is no extra charge for the

Upper Rhine region, Rastatt is modelled on

Azamazing evening, but passengers must book.

Versailles and offers visitors a visual feast of SEA OF CORTEZ, MEXICO

lavish stucco figures and reliefs, impressive chandeliers and elaborate ceiling frescoes

Swim with sea lions

painted by Italian artists. Scenic Tours guests are

The small expedition ship Safari Endeavour

treated to a private tour followed by a classical

anchors just off Los Islotes, a desolate cluster of

music concert before sitting down to a banquet

rocks in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico, where skiffs

in one of the palace’s ornate salons.

take passengers as close as possible to the

Book it Scenic Tours (0161 236 2444,

craggy outcrops. The adventurous can then don

scenictours.co.uk) is offering a 15-day

a mask and snorkel and plunge into the melée of

Romantic Rhine and Moselle cruise

wild Californian sea lions that gather here in large

from Amsterdam to Basel, with departures

numbers to breed. Snorkellers will be nipped,

until mid-October, from £2,495 per person,

jostled and nudged to make them interact as

including flights and excursions.

juvenile sea lions show off, buzzing swimmers underwater and gobbling mouthfuls of fish as

THE ANTARCTIC

they leap like dolphins towards the dive boat.

Camp on the ice shelf

The trick is to treat them as large, very playful

Many expeditions to the White

puppies that happen to be superb swimmers.

Continent follow in the footsteps of great explorers

DON A MASK AND SNORKEL AND PLUNGE INTO A MELEE OF WILD SEA LIONS

such as Amundsen and Scott. Hurtigruten, whose ships have been transporting locals around Norway’s Arctic coast for more than 120 years, takes hardy

design, working

Antarctic expeditions on board the

with materials such

MS Fram. On the designated day (ground arrangements in Antarctica depend on the

as steel, matte gold, brown diamonds, rough-cut

stucco and paint to save them from destruction

Book it Mundy Adventures (020 7399 7630,

during the Cultural Revolution, the paintings were

mundyadventures.co.uk) is offering a 10-night

uncovered only in 1997. The tour also includes

Baja’s Bounty cruise on Safari Endeavour

a visit to the city’s former abattoir, an architectural

with American Safari Cruises from £3,455 per person, including flights and excursions.

weather and the condition of the ice), a small

rock crystal, amethysts and emeralds. This three-

art-deco gem in the historical Hongkou district,

group leaves the warmth of the ship for the

hour workshop – led by Odescalchi, in her 16th-

which is fast becoming a must-visit hub of art and

ice, pitching two-man expedition tents furnished

century palazzo in the city centre – allows

creativity. Another quirky highlight is the marriage

with thermal sleeping bags, for a night to

participants to study her technique and create

market near People’s Square – a vast, open-air

See Formula 1 and falcons

remember in the snowy wilderness. During the

their own piece using an age-old method of

match-making event at which parents attempt to

One of a series of family-friendly excursions from

Austral summer, when the sun barely sets,

reproduction to create a cast, pour molten

find husbands or wives for their single offspring.

Hapag-Lloyd, Germany’s most luxurious cruise

campers may have inquisitive penguins for

metal into it and refine and polish the result.

company – but getting a decent night’s sleep is

Book it Crystal Cruises (020 7399 7601,

waterfront Bund, a sweep of former bank

2. Its round-trip voyage from Dubai, during the

secondary to the adventure.

crystalcruises.co.uk) is offering a nine-night Italian

buildings and trading houses that flanks the

2014 Easter school holidays, includes such

Book it Hurtigruten (0844 448 7601, hurtigruten.

Dreams cruise from Venice to Monte Carlo on

western bank of the Huangpu River, with views

activities as desert driving in Qatar, a visit to the

co.uk) is offering a 10-day Antarctica Classic

Crystal Serenity, departing on September 19,

across to the skyscrapers of Pudong – the

F1 circuit in Bahrain and a dolphin-spotting trip on

Expedition Voyage departing from Ushuaia,

from £3,325 per person, including flights. The

gleaming 21st-century vision across the water.

a traditional dhow to Oman’s rarely visited

Argentina, on November 22, from £3,898 per

excursion costs an additional £725 per person.

Book it Silversea (0844 251 0837, silversea.com)

Musandam peninsula. In Abu Dhabi, the highlight

is offering a 14-day cruise from Hong Kong to

is a tour of the Falcon Hospital – the world’s

Tokyo on board Silver Shadow, departing on

largest rehabilitation facility for falcons, one of

April 19, 2014, from £3,850 per person. The

the great icons of Arab culture. This will be

sidecar excursion costs £525 for two people.

followed by a desert drive in a 4x4, with a chance

person. Flights and hotel accommodation in Buenos Aires start at £1,692 per person and the excursion costs £330 per person.

SHANGHAI, CHINA

Ride in a vintage sidecar Guests can plunge headlong into the throng of

ROME, ITALY

Design your own jewellery

The tour culminates in a drive along the

humanity – albeit with style – in the sidecar of a 1930s motorcycle with a Shanghai resident as

ABU DHABI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES

line, this one is available on the brand-new Europa

to spot the magnificent birds of prey in the wild. ST KITTS, THE CARIBBEAN

Book it Hapag Lloyd (0049 40 3001 4580, hl-

Participants in Crystal Cruises’ exclusive Jewellery

their guide. The luxury cruise line Silversea offers

Dine at a historic house

cruises.com) is offering an eight-night round-trip

Showroom and Workshop tour in Rome will come

this unusual tour of China’s largest city, taking in

The scented tropical gardens surrounding Fairview

Dubai cruise from £4,721 per adult in a two-room

away with an original piece they have designed

some of its less-visited sights, including the

Great House, on the Caribbean island of St Kitts,

family apartment (free for children under 11),

and cast themselves. Lucia Odescalchi, a former

elaborate ceiling mosaics that adorn the dome of

provide the backdrop for one of a new series of

cruise-only, departing on April 20, 2014. The

Valentino model, has turned her hand to jewellery

the Pudong Development Bank. Covered with

events from Azamara Club Cruises. Each Azamara

excursion costs an additional £77 per person.

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AIRPANO.COM; ALAMY;GETTY

guests camping on the ice during its


SMALL SHIP CRUISING WITH

- SPECIAL OFFER PRICES FROM ONLY £2995

IAL SPEC RICES ER P OFF NIGHTS 10 NLY MO O R F

Island hopping in Cape Verde

5 9 9 2 £ ON PERS PER

Voyages exploring the Cape Verde archipelago aboard the MS Island Sky - November & December 2013

Escape the British winter and enjoy the warmth and beauty of the Cape Verde archipelago aboard the wonderfully comfortable MS Island Sky as she undertakes exactly the type of itinerary that suits her best. Like the Azores but even more remote, the Cape Verde Islands are an intriguing archipelago located off the coast of Senegal. They are an amazingly varied group of islands that have been used as a staging post by mariners through the ages and there is truly no better way to explore the region, with its dramatic beauty and cultural vibrancy than by small ship, and with the MS Island Sky as our base we can island hop with great ease.

T

he MS Island Sky will be exploring the Cape Verde archipelago from November to mid December over the course of three voyages – the order of islands visited and the length of time spent in the archipelago varies but all three voyages provide an in-depth exploration of the culture, wildlife and lifestyle of the islands, some of which are arid and flat with extraordinary beaches and sand dunes contrasting with lush mountainous islands. It is a little world of its own, each island having a distinct culture and atmosphere and an ideal archipelago for small ship cruising.

The Voyages

The Islands Palmeira, Sal: The island of Sal was relatively undeveloped until the mid nineteenth century when salt export business was developed. We will see the saltpans and after lunch visit the town of Santa Maria for a relaxing afternoon swimming from the beaches or exploring the local shops for Cape Verdean crafts. Maio: We spend a full day on the tiny island of Maio, a peaceful island with vast deserted beaches. Our time on the island will be relaxing allowing for time at leisure to walk along the long beaches next to our anchorage. Our onboard staff will run walking tours to the capital of Vila do Maio with its huge white Baroque church and pretty pastel painted houses. Whilst the birders will have a chance to see the prolific birdlife.

wonderful conditions for the flora. Our tour will include arguably the most beautiful bay in the islands at Faja d’Agua with its pretty nearby village. Sao Nicolau: Sao Nicolau is a charming, peaceful and attractive island of plantations, small holdings and busy farming villages. It also has impressive, almost untouched mountain scenery, friendly residents and lively traditions. On our tour we will drive through a spectacular landscape towards the historical capital Ribeira Brava. Here we will discover the lively centre of the island which reflects the character of the people.

Praia, Sao Tiago: The island of Sao Tiago, and in particular the capital of Praia, is a busy town with a very African feel. We drive to nearby Cidade Velha, the old Portuguese capital with a rich history. See the fort and cathedral and visit the National Maritime Museum of marine archaeology.

Mindelo, Sao Vincente: Mindelo is one of the most attractive of all Cape Verde towns with its colonial buildings, cobbled streets, cafes and lively restaurants. During our time here we will go on a discovery tour of the lively markets and the secret corners of the harbour town. We moor for two nights here allowing time to explore the charming port on a pre or post diner stroll and on one evening enjoy a performance by local musicians and a capoeira display on board.

Fogo & Brava: During our voyages we spend two days exploring Fogo and Brava. Fogo is an extraordinary place. Known as the ‘Mother Island’ it has its own unique character and people. An island drive will take us through dramatically contrasting areas of fertile valleys that are dominated by the massive grey volcanic cone of Pico de Fogo. Later, call into the main town of Sao Filipe, a gracious town of faded grandeur. Brava is often referred to as the ‘Secret Island’ as it is sometimes mist shrouded and the humid conditions produce

Porto Novo, Santo Antao: Santo Antao is regarded as the most beautiful of the islands. During our exploration of the island we drive up the old trading route, enjoying panoramic views of the island before arriving in a tiny picturesque mountain village. After lunch in the seaside village of Ponta de Sol, we will take the coastal road towards the greenest valley in the archipelago, the valley of Paul where we will learn about the production of sugarcane on the island. Also discover ‘Grogue’, the national drink of the islands.

Voyage 1 - 15th to 25th November 2013

Santo Antao Mindelo Sao Nicolau

Voyage 2 - 25th November to 5th December 2013 Voyage 3 - 5th to 15th December 2013

Santo Antao Mindelo Sao Nicolau

Sal

CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

CAPE VERDE ISLANDS Maio

Brava

Fogo

Sal

Maio

Sao Tiago Brava

Day 1 London Gatwick to Mindelo, Sao Vincente. Fly by specially chartered direct flight. Embark the MS Island Sky this evening and moor overnight. Day 2 Mindelo, Sao Vincente. Day 3 Mindelo, Sao Vincente & Porto Novo, Santo Antao Day 4 Santo Antao Day 5 Sao Nicolau Days 6 & 7 Fogo & Brava Day 8 Praia, Sao Tiago Day 9 Maio Day 10 Palmeira, Sal Day 11 Palmeira to London Gatwick. Disembark this morning and transfer to the airport for our specially chartered direct flight to London.

Fogo

Sao Tiago

Day 1 London Gatwick to Palmeira, Sal. Fly by specially chartered direct flight. Embark the MS Island Sky this evening and moor overnight. Day 2 Palmeira, Sal Day 3 Maio Day 4 Praia, Sao Tiago Days 5 & 6 Fogo & Brava Day 7 Santo Antao Day 8 Porto Novo, Santo Antao & Mindelo, Sao Vincente Day 9 Mindelo, Sao Vincente Day 10 Sao Nicolau Day 11 Palmeira to London Gatwick. Disembark this morning and transfer to the airport for our specially chartered direct flight to London.

Excellent value for money SPECIAL OFFER PRICES PER PERSON BASED ON DOUBLE OCCUPANCY RANGE FROM £2995 FOR A STANDARD FORWARD SUITE TO £4495 FOR AN OWNER’S BALCONY SUITE. SUITES FOR SOLE USE FROM £4495. Price Includes: Economy class privately chartered air travel • 10 nights aboard the MS Island Sky on full board • House wine, beer or soft drinks with lunch and dinner onboard • lecture programme • shore excursions • gratuities to crew and whilst on shore excursions • transfers • port taxes • airport taxes. NB. Ports subject to change. All special offers are subject to availability. Our current booking conditions apply to all reservations and are available on request. Travel insurance and visa are not included in the price.

MS Island Sky

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he MS Island Sky is one of the finest small ships in the world with an atmosphere akin to a private yacht or country hotel. With a maximum passenger capacity of only 114, the all-suite vessel has the benefit of unusually large accommodation, public areas and spacious outside decks. All suites feature a sitting room area and some have a private balcony. The spacious and finely decorated public rooms include a lounge, elegant bar, library and a single seating dining room. Outside there is a rear sun deck where meals are served in warm weather under shade, a bar and comfortable deck furniture. On the top deck there is a Jacuzzi, further observation and sun deck.

Call us today on 020 7752 0000 for your copy of our brochure. Alternatively view or request online at www.noble-caledonia.co.uk

SMALL SHIPS - BIG EXPERIENCES


U LT R A S A I L

ART DECKO

Cruise passengers need something to look at other than the changing seascape. Why not a ÂŁ4 million van Gogh or 25 prints by Andy Warhol? Norman Miller explores the long tradition of cruise lines buying art

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ast month, when the brand-new Norwegian Breakaway took up its mooring at New Yorkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Manhattan Terminal, it became the largest cruise ship ever to have been based there. It is also one of the largest pieces of art on Earth, its hull a metallic canvas for a 40,000sqft work by the American illustrator Peter Max. In January 2014, the Norwegian Getaway â&#x20AC;&#x201C; owned by the same company, Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; will become a ďŹ&#x201A;oating canvas too, when the Miami-based muralist David â&#x20AC;&#x153;Leboâ&#x20AC;? Le Batard unveils a similarly vast painting on its hull. Turning cruise ships into art is a natural progression from their long history as ďŹ&#x201A;oating galleries. In the golden age of cruising, the classic liners were often used to showcase the private collections of their wealthy owners. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an idea conveyed in James Cameronâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ďŹ lm Titanic, in which Picassoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Les Demoiselles dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Avignon is shown going down with the ship â&#x20AC;&#x201C; though that is pure cinematic fantasy, unless the picture hanging at the Museum of Modern Art in New York isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t all it seems. Some of the opulence and glamour of that era was recaptured in 2003 and 2004, when passengers on NCLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Norwegian Dawn sailed with a collection of original oil paintings by Renoir, Matisse, van Gogh and Monet, exhibited in the vesselâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Le Bistro restaurant. On loan from Tan Sri Lim Kok â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the chairman of Star Cruises, NCLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s parent company â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the collection included Monetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s VĂŠtheuil de Soleil, Matisseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nu au Turban, one of Renoirâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s La Baigneuse paintings and van Goghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Un Parc au Printemps â&#x20AC;&#x201C; alone estimated to be worth more than ÂŁ4 million. It was said at the time that the value of the paintings in this one restaurant exceeded that of the entire art collection on most other cruise ships.

PAINTING BY NUMBERS

Travel trunk Bert Rodriguezâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s installation, in the grand foyer of Celebrity Reflection, features a real tree suspended in mid-air, mirrored by another made of cast aluminium

ÂŁ80 MILLION Amount spent on art by Celebrity Cruises. ÂŁ4 MILLION Value of one painting on board Norwegian Dawn. 40,000 sqft Area of mural on hull of Norwegian Breakaway. ÂŁ50,000 Amount bid at auction by one cruise passenger on art worth only ÂŁ6,500.

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In addition, Norwegian Dawnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stairwells were hung with 25 signed, numbered silkscreen prints by Andy Warhol. These days, NCL has switched its focus to hull art â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but on other cruise ships, the tradition of displaying historic works of art continues. Royal Caribbean and its sister line, Celebrity Cruises, have spent more than $120 million (about ÂŁ80 million) on art over the past 15 years, amassing one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest corporate collections featuring about 15,000 contemporary works. Artists on the ďŹ&#x201A;eet inventory include Robert Rauschenberg, Joseph Beuys, Marc Quinn, Anish Kapoor and Vik Muniz. Celebrity Cruisesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; burgeoning collection is curated by Mariangela Capuzzo, the creative director of International Corporate Art (ICArt). â&#x20AC;&#x153;Their ships have become a platform for a stellar art collection,â&#x20AC;? she says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;with work by important established, mid-career and emerging artists. They [Celebrity Cruises] give us a budget and the freedom to buy, and we try to create a museum-like experience for guests on board.â&#x20AC;? Rather than take a scatter-gun approach, Capuzzo builds collections on a theme. With her budget of $4.1 million (about ÂŁ2.7 million) for Celebrity ReďŹ&#x201A;ection,

P&O was an early champion of David Hockney, buying works when he was still a student at the Royal College of Art. More recent recipients of P&O patronage have included Julian Wild, Halima Cassell, Paul Wright and Martha Winter. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Most of the artists have gone from strength to strength since they were ďŹ rst commissioned by P&O,â&#x20AC;? Tempest-Radford points out â&#x20AC;&#x201C; so scribble down those names now as you wander the gangways. Some cruise ships serve as satellite salerooms for established art dealers. Silversea vessels host the Andrew Weiss Gallery, selling museum-quality work including ceramics by Pablo Picasso, bronzes by Salvador DalĂ­, works by Chagall, MirĂł, Henry Moore and Modigliani, plus photography from the 1930s and 1940s by star practitioners such as Bert Stern. Cunardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Queen Elizabeth is home to an outpost of Clarendon Fine Art, with potential purchases ranging from art deco paintings to silverware by Asprey. Royal Caribbean, meanwhile, has used its Allure of the Seas as a gallery selling the work of Romero Britto, a Brazilian pop artist.

ON SOME SHIPS, PASSENGERS ARE GIVEN IPADS LOADED WITH THE LOCATIONS OF VARIOUS WORKS OF ART ON BOARD she combined suitable pieces from the ďŹ&#x201A;eetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection with 130 new purchases on the theme â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Seductiveness of a ReďŹ&#x201A;ectionâ&#x20AC;?. Works include Mirror Flower by Jeff Koons, plus large-scale commissions including Bert Rodriguezâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s installation in the upper grand foyer, featuring an entire tree suspended in mid-air, mirrored by another made of cast aluminium. hen installing art on ships, safety is paramount. Wood must be ďŹ re-treated and any resins approved by the International Maritime Organization. No work can contain plexiglass, which can emit toxic chemicals in a ďŹ re. And because there is so much natural light on modern cruise ships, paintings are rarely displayed behind glass, which is too reďŹ&#x201A;ective. For the eight works on Celebrity Mercury, Capuzzo began working with the artists while the ship was still being built in Germany, using drawings rather than existing spaces. At Hurtigruten, too, art is integrated into ship design long before a vessel goes to sea. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The purchasing of art is part of the new building project,â&#x20AC;? says Kathryn Beadle, managing director of Hurtigruten UK, adding that works are chosen to reďŹ&#x201A;ect the Norwegian landscape and the waters plied by a particular ship. MS Trollfjord features the expressionistic paintings of Kaare Espolin Johnson, inspired by the Lofoten ďŹ shing industry and the hardships of the High North. On MS Fram, the ďŹ&#x201A;eetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest ship, works by contemporary Greenland artists reďŹ&#x201A;ect its mainly Polar routes. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Hurtigruten brings its guests closer to the culture of the regions travelled through,â&#x20AC;? says Beadle, â&#x20AC;&#x153;while at the same time promoting local artists.â&#x20AC;? At smaller ports, some are invited to bring their work on board â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a rare chance to exhibit, given the difďŹ culty of the terrain and the distances separating them from the nearest gallery. On its ships, P&O Cruises showcases British artists. Commissioning duties fall to Tom Tempest-Radford, a corporate art buyer, who works with the interior designers of each new vessel built to come up with a â&#x20AC;&#x153;lookâ&#x20AC;? before ďŹ nding the right British artist to fulďŹ l it.

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Marquet forces From top: Viscount Linleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 18ft-tall marquetry panel on Queen Elizabeth; Marilyn Monroe, photographed by Bert Stern, part of the Andrew Weiss Gallery collection on Silversea; Silver Shadow; a Kaare Johnson painting on MS Trollfjord; and Space Venus, Salvador Daliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work on Silver Shadow

Be wary, however, of ship-board auctions. A tide of complaints â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and even legal actions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; have resulted from passengers parting with large sums, only to discover they have bought work worth far less than the pre-sales hype suggested. Some have even had their purchases identiďŹ ed as fake by experts back on shore. One cruise customer who went to court spent more than $70,000 (ÂŁ50,000) on works that turned out to be worth nearer $10,000. For sheer pedigree, it is hard to beat a royal artist â&#x20AC;&#x201C; such as the master woodworker Viscount Linley, whose superlative â&#x20AC;&#x153;ďŹ ttingâ&#x20AC;? for Cunard blurs the boundary between dĂŠcor and art. The 18ft-tall marquetry panel, his largest creation to date, spans two-and-a-half decks in the Queen Elizabethâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s grand lobby and depicts the port bow of its historic namesake seen from sea level. On Queen Elizabethâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sister ship, Queen Victoria, Cunard has maintained a long company tradition of commissioning new royal sculpture or portraits, in this case a painting of the Duchess of Cornwall by Richard Stone. As well as exhibiting art, Cunard brings artists on board to talk about their work. Other companies offer enlightenment through technology. On some ships operated by Celebrity Cruises, passengers are given iPads loaded with the locations of various works on board, along with relevant information. Holland America Line, meanwhile, offers self-guided tours using MP3 players to interpret an eclectic mix of art on its 15 ships. Worth millions of dollars, its collection ranges from17th-century Dutch masters to Pop Art by Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein, medallions by Frank Lloyd Wright and beautifully crafted aluminium lift doors inspired by the Chrysler Building in New York. Surrounded by such sophistication and grandeur, it is hard not to feel a certain frisson. As one cruise blogger wrote, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not even an art enthusiast but I felt something strong and alluring about standing in the presence of the master works displayed.â&#x20AC;? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sign that the cruise companies have customer satisfaction down to a ďŹ ne art.


Redentore Terrazza Suite THE GRITTI PALACE, VENICE

0039 041 794611, luxurycollection.com/grittipalace Price From £5,050 (all prices are per room per night) Suite size 820sq ft, terrace 2,690sq ft Opened February 2013 USP The best views in Venice? The panorama from the Campanile in St Mark’s Square, for one, the broad sweep of the Venetian lagoon from San Giorgio Maggiore for another. And then? How about the extraordinary outlook from the Redentore Terrazza Suite of the Gritti Palace, the city’s most historic hotel? Climb a spiral staircase from this top-floor suite and you emerge on to a vast roof terrace for your exclusive use. Ignore, for now, the private pool and the Terrazza’s sheer size – any terrace is rare in space-starved Venice, let alone one this large – and instead let your eyes examine the astonishing view. The 360-degree panorama takes in a sea of towers and rooftops, the Lido and distant lagoon, Giudecca island, the loveliest stretch of the Grand Canal, the vast dome of Santa Maria della Salute and the distant outline of the Redentore, the Palladian church that gives the suite its name. The details The Redentore is not the largest or grandest of the Gritti’s 21 suites, all of which emerged from a restoration project earlier this year that cost £36 million and left the hotel closed for 15 months. Rather it is cosy and romantic, with rug-covered wooden floors, a colour scheme of rich, warm reds, pretty floral silk wall-coverings and all the many treasures – valuable antiques, prints, paintings, frescoes and fine period furniture – that lend the Gritti its sumptuous period splendour. The two-storey suite has private lift access from the lobby, discreetly integrated state-of-the-art technology, including Bang & Olufsen televisions, as well as incidentals, such as the lavish Acqua di Parma toiletries. There is no butler – but such is the Gritti’s level of service, it’s not something you are likely to miss. How long you will spend in the suite is a moot point, however, because the chances are you’ll be out on the terrace to eat, drink, sunbathe, share cocktails with a hundred of your best friends, lie in the pool and look at the stars or simply to stare in wonder at one of the most mesmerising views of any city in the world. Tim Jepson

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SUITE DREAMS

A SKYLINE OF ONE’S OWN Private spa, private bar, fancy furnishings and iPad controls? Between them, these six new suites have all the mod cons – but the superlative views they offer are the real draw

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The Penthouse

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GEORGE V, PARIS 0033 149 527000, fourseasons.com/paris Price From £16,950 Suite size 1,630sq ft

Opened May 2012 USP It’s like having your own pied-à-terre, but with five-star service – apart from one small gripe: the waiter was 10 minutes late with our room-service order. He swiftly poured us a glass of crisp Sancerre and we wandered out from the conservatory on to a balcony that seems to overlook the whole of Paris. Right on cue, the lights of the Eiffel Tower sparkled into life in

YOU FEEL AS THOUGH YOU ARE ON A SHIP, WITH WAVE UPON WAVE OF HAUSSMANN’S GRID-LIKE STREETS BELOW YOU

front of us. “Yes, I ‘ad a word wiv zem,” said the errant waiter, without missing a beat. All those who serve in the George V’s penthouse suite have an answer for everything, it seems. Out on the main balcony, you feel as though you are on the prow of a ship, with wave upon wave of Haussmann’s grid-like streets below you. The view of the Eiffel Tower may be the show-stopper but even on the haziest of days the 360-degree panorama takes in the Sacré Coeur Basilica and the American Cathedral in all their glory. A winding staircase takes you up to a smaller, higher, more intimate balcony (the bridge, perhaps) where the perspective is even better: from there you can make out the rooftops of the Panthéon, Invalides and Madeleine. Even the bedroom comes complete with a private balcony and four-poster day bed. The details Housed on the eighth floor, this welcoming and spacious suite feels more like a private apartment than part of a hotel. Elegant and contemporary, rather than extravagant or ornate, the space, created by Pierre-Yves Rochon, successfully blends old and new: think Baccarat crystal glassware and Second Empire furniture, as well as iPads, plasma screens and an infinity bath with underwater lighting. But it is the little things that set this suite apart: the pair of reading glasses for guests who might have forgotten theirs, the alternative set of toiletries (for those who don’t like Bulgari products, there is Sodashi), the plasma television hidden behind a mirror, the gargantuan walk-in shower surrounded by a winter garden of white orchids (by the master florist Jeff Leatham) and the second bathroom by the front door for those in a hurry to leave. Not that you will ever want to. Charles Starmer-Smith

Top deck The view of the Eiffel Tower (top) is just the start of the 360-degree panorama. The interiors, above and left, by Pierre-Yves Rochon, mix old and new styles

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Between desert and sea Outside and inside the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai. Below: a tablet controls the curtains

JW Suite

yomps all the way to Oman. At night the glittering towers and ceaseless traffic

JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS HOTEL DUBAI

of this fast-growing city blaze like the myriad jewels in its famous gold souk.

00971 4414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com

and catches the sunset; the next-door Marquis Suite looks towards the city

Price From £8,750

and the spire of Burj Khalifa. The decor is play-it-safe − executive black meets

Suite size 6,716sq ft

silvery grey, Middle-Eastern plush mingles with Asian calm. The spacious

Opened February 2013

entrance lounge is a 21st-century take on the Arabic majlis where guests are

USP Forget Tibet. The new roof of the world is this airy presidential suite

traditionally welcomed, with wooden latticework recalling the mashrabiya

crowning a 1,164ft skyscraper overlooking Dubai’s emerging Business Bay

window. From the private bar and dining room, guests climb a curved staircase

district. It is at the top of the world’s tallest hotel, one of only two properties

to the master bedroom and marble bathroom with Jacuzzi. There is a smaller

in Marriott’s vast portfolio to be granted the supreme title of Marquis. Your

en-suite twin bedroom, and a grand study with a big desk and panoramic views

front door opens on the 69th floor, between a glitzy cocktail lounge on the

that will undoubtedly inspire some blue-sky thinking. Soothing treatments can

70th and a smart restaurant serving prime steaks on the 68th. Inside is a

be arranged in the private spa room, where there is mood lighting, a Bose

contemporary two-bedroom suite spread over two storeys, with floor-to-ceiling

sound system and tip-top service. When it’s time for bed the curtains, lights

windows so guests can drink in the master-of-the-universe views. Point the

and air conditioning are controlled by a touch-screen tablet, so you can truly

chrome-plated binoculars one way and there are the golden beaches and

fall asleep with your head in the clouds.

turquoise waters of the Persian Gulf. Swivel round, and the uncaring desert

Nigel Tisdall

The details The JW, one of a pair of identical penthouse suites, faces the sea

the Cuckoo’s Nest-style padded leather walls – are white. There aren’t many places to lounge, either. Should you and your guests want to sit, you can do so in a long row on a white upright banquette – unless you fancy lying almost supine in a sculpted leather armchair or perching downstairs around a white oval dining table. The bedroom, with a secluded balcony, is cosy, but with a walk-in wardrobe, marble bathroom with generous shower and oval bathtub (plus Apivita amenities), who needs a huge bedroom? Besides, who wants to sleep when there is so much to do and guests have so many toys to play with? There’s a Bose audio system, three

Suite Me

at its heart. Because the second-floor living room

you’re encased in a glass cocoon, with speakers

televisions, spa treatments, a “mind and body”

ME LONDON

of the duplex suite is round and encased in glass,

in every ceiling, an events manager to organise

minibar, an iPad – and a complicated electronics

sitting in it is like being in a lighthouse, overlooking

private dinners and drinks – and direct access

system to control them all. Then there is a

0808 234 1953, melia.com

a sea of roofs, cars and people below. Across the

to Radio, the hotel’s rooftop bar.

charming “Aura” team member to help you work

Price From £3,180

road, guests in the One Aldwych hotel are getting

The details If the entrance hall outside feels

the lights/phones/music and deliver sensational

Suite size 1,065sq ft

undressed, unaware that from this glass eyrie you

slightly mausoleum-like, clad in black marble and

Italian cuisine from Cucina Asellina. The guests

Opened April 2013

can see everything. To the west, Nelson’s Column

dimly lit, the interior of the suite couldn’t be any

before me, apparently, drank and danced until

USP There isn’t another room in London like this,

rises into the sky, with Buckingham Palace

lighter or brighter. However, there is minimal

4am. They had the right idea; in a suite designed

at the top of Foster + Partners’ architecturally

glowing golden behind, and to the east are the

colour. Furniture, candles, soap, towels, carpets,

for partying, why would you do anything else?

adventurous hotel, with a pyramid-shaped space

glinting skyscrapers of Canary Wharf. Inside,

marble floors, flowers – even the One Flew Over

Lisa Grainger

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İstanbul Turkish Culture and Tourism Office Tel: 020 7839 7778 | www.gototurkey.co.uk

www.goturkey.com


Blue view Water on the Water, the floating pool at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Below: the balcony, which also has a Jacuzzi

GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO, LAKE COMO

Presidential Suite

furniture straight out of the Salone Internazionale del Mobile in Milan. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exactly

Price From ÂŁ1,010

what you might expect of a new suite

Suite size 650sq ft, plus 300sq ft private terrace

grafted on to a timeless grand hotel.

Opened May 2012

The details One of eight suites on the top

USP This rooftop eyrie may be five floors up from the shimmering

floor, the Bellagio can be combined with

surface of Lake Como, but guests feel intimately connected with the

a corner suite â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or all eight can be rented as

lake and its glamorous retro lifestyle. From the private terrace, you

one. It comprises a bedroom with walk-in wardrobe, a living room

can watch seaplanes land, see the battello (vintage ferry) ply the

with floor-to-ceiling windows, and a marble bathroom with double

waters between here and Bellagio â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the village that gives the suite

sinks, a Jacuzzi with myriad water-jet settings and a roomy shower

its name â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or look down on Ru, the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s varnished 1961 launch,

with simple, chunky controls. Everything works perfectly, from the

cute as a bath toy and in every respect the opposite of a stretch

Loewe sound system to the flatscreen televisions and the Jacuzzi

limo. From up here, the view is just water, mountains and sky. As the

on the terrace, shielded from the wind by glass panels. Here,

sun sets, the majestic Grigne peaks glow pastel pink then fade to

prosecco in hand, you can hydrotherapise, catch rays and admire

granite grey, colours brought inside by Venelli Kramer, the interior

that view. A butler is posted outside, should the plumbing fail.

designer, who has melded old-world grandeur (chaises longues,

Andrew Purvis

elongated sitting room, a dining table

Memorial Church; beyond, the

and grand piano are on hand for

wooded expanse of Tiergarten gives

dinner guests; at the other, couches

0049 308 140000,

way to a volley of weighty landmarks,

surround a gas fire and a large-screen

waldorfastoriaberlin.com

from the Siegessäule Victory Column,

television made unobtrusive by

Price From ÂŁ4,215

crowned by a glistening golden angel,

a mirrored panel. Light and

Suite size 3,000sq ft

to the Brandenburg Gate, behind

uncluttered, the main bedroom leads

Opened January 2013

a canopy of trees. The most surprising

to a walk-in wardrobe and a sprawling

USP The area around the Zoologischer

view is much closer; one of the baths

bathroom with a private balcony

Garten may be a mix of Sixties office

overlooks the zoo, where the amble

positioned to catch the sunset.

blocks and neon-fronted shops, but

of lumbering elephants and graceful

this district is on the up. The opening

giraffes provides a calming contrast to

suite opened, I encountered problems

of the Waldorf Astoria is testament to

the distractions of this 24-hour city.

with the gadgetry and, worse, a faulty

that, and its Presidential Suite, at the

The details Taking up the whole

fire alarm that screeched into urgent

peak of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fourth-tallest

of the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 31st floor, the Waldorf

action in the middle of the night. I have

building, provides an illuminating

Astoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s two-bedroom Presidential

since been assured that these teething

360-degree panorama. From the living

Suite is a demurely decorated space,

problems were swiftly dealt with.

room, the nearby KaDeWe department

soothingly finished in creams, golds

German efficiency triumphs again.

store peeps from behind the jagged

and browns. At one end of the

John Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ceallaigh

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colours (cherry, plum, fuchsia) and stark white

0039 0344 42491, grandhoteltremezzo.com

spire of the bombed Kaiser Wilhelm

WALDORF ASTORIA BERLIN

mirrors in gilt frames) with fruity contemporary

During my stay, soon after the

YOANN STOECKEL; JOE PLIMMER; NIGEL TISDALL

Bellagio Rooftop Front Suite


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intelligence ULTRA

EDITED BY LISA GRAINGER

ACCESS ALL AREAS PEOPLE WHO CAN GET YOU TO PLACES OTHERS CAN’T REACH

LIVE LIKE A CHÂTELAINE

Y

ou can learn a surprising amount about wine from inside a helicopter. As the pilot points out the legendary châteaux of the Médoc or swoops among the hills of Saint-Emilion, it’s a good insight into the French notion of terroir and what it is that

makes each patch of vines and each wine different. A helicopter flight is just one of the options laid on by Bernard Magrez Luxury Wine Tourism, tailor-made wine tours around the three grand Bordeaux vineyards of the maverick wine producer Bernard Magrez: Château Pape Clément, Château Fombrauge and Château La Tour Carnet. Tours are adapted to different levels of knowledge, whether you want an introductory lesson, a vertical tasting of the best vintages of Pape-Clément, or a course in blending during which you create your own personal bottle. Wine discovery is complemented by the chance to “satisfy the dream of being a châtelaine for a night”. Cécile Daquin, Bernard Magrez’s daughter, says: “We leave the key, and it’s as if it were your home.” Guests spend the night in one of five sumptuous bedrooms at the fanciful neo-Gothic Château Pape

A fine vintage Château Pape Clément, where guests of the Magrez family stay. A helicopter tour and wine-tasting are included, and sightseeing in Bordeaux is by Rolls-Royce

Clément, where a team of backstage staff serves dinner and stokes the fire, and the chef, Jérôme Bourcié, prepares gourmet meals – as well as offering cookery lessons. Excursions include sightseeing by Rolls-Royce in Bordeaux, a boat trip and oyster feast in a traditional wooden pinasse on the Bassin d’Arcachon, a speedboat ride up the Gironde estuary to Île de Patiras, a tiny haven with a vineyard and lighthouse. Daquin does her best to meet every personal whim: she once organised a private concert in the cellars of Château Fombrauge, so her guests could hear the Stradivarius bought by Magrez for the first violin of the Orchestre National de Bordeaux Aquitaine. Prices start at €880 (about £740) per person for helicopter flight, wine tasting and one night at Château Pape Clément (0033 557 264306, luxurywinetourism.fr).

Natasha Edwards

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TRAVEL BY NUMBERS

44,450

Cost at an auction, in pounds, of the swimming trunks worn by Daniel Craig in Casino Royale

MASTERCLASS

LESSONS FROM GLOBAL EXPERTS Yannick Alléno is a two-Michelinstarred French chef whose dishes are served at some of the world’s leading hotels, such as the Royal Mansour in Marrakesh. He specialises in “Cuisine Moderne”, using techniques such as extraction and cryoconcentration.

100,000

What is extraction?

Number of muscles in an elephant’s trunk

25,000

Number of African elephants killed by poachers in 2011: one-nineteenth of the total population

3,950

Cost in pounds of a 1920s Goyard weekend trunk (bentleyslondon.com) THE BOOK

THE BOHO BIBLE

A

bohemian traveller herself, Julia

Dazzling Sol LeWitt’s Wall Drawing #1091 (2003)

years to perfect, working with Bruno and Education Academy (CREA) in

The inside track on the world’s greatest galleries and museums Michael Brand, director of the Art

And the most controversial?

Gallery of New South Wales, offers

The white-on-white painting Unknowing, from 2002, by the

a visual alternative for visitors to Sydney during the Lions rugby

London-based Iranian Shirazeh

tour this summer.

Houshiary, always attracts

What is special about

attention for its apparent

your gallery?

minimalism, which veils the

We have an outstanding

laborious application of countless

collection of Australian art, right and incredibly knowledgeable guides,

extracting pure juice. It has taken me Goussault at the Culinary Research

DIRECTOR’S CUT

beside the Royal Botanic Gardens –

The process of concentrating taste by

Arabic characters to the canvas. Which artists should no one miss? We have the largest public collection of works

including a few who dress in character. A loud and

by the American artist Sol LeWitt, as well as

very cheeky fruit bat, for instance, leads tours of our

a fantastic collection of the works of the Aboriginal

Aboriginal collection and a beguiling Barbarella-type

artist Rover Thomas.

figure takes contemporary art tours.

What exhibitions do you have coming up?

What should visitors see if they have only

Of the 20 we show each year, we are most excited

three hours to spare?

about our next major summer exhibition, America:

Yiribana, our gallery for Aboriginal art, and our suite

Painting a Nation, the first survey of American

of recently re-installed galleries for 20th-century

painting ever held in Australia. Opening on July 6, we

Australian art. Plus, if they have time, the

have Sydney Moderns, featuring Australian art from

19th-century Australian paintings in our original

1915 to 1940 and, on August 22, A Silk Road Saga,

Victorian galleries and our historical Asian collection

which features an extraordinary late-sixth-century

housed in a beautiful “lantern” gallery. They could

white marble sarcophagus lent to us by the

finish in our cafe overlooking Sydney Harbour.

Shaanxi History Museum in China.

Which is the gallery’s most popular work?

What are the best things about your cafe?

Fire’s On, painted in 1891 by the Australian artist

The contemporary Australian cuisine, the indoor-

Arthur Streeton, which will be a highlight of this

outdoor seating and the multicoloured parakeets

autumn’s Australian exhibition at the Royal Academy.

that swing from umbrella cables outdoors.

Paris. I extract juice from every ingredient, to create tastes that are ultra-natural and concentrated. So it’s all about sauces? Sauces are the DNA of French cuisine. They first appeared in the 18th century. Then Auguste Escoffier created the “fonds” (stock) and, 70 years later, nouvelle cuisine gave us “les jus courts”. Extraction came next. Does this require specific tools? Yes, the Cookcooning, by Sylvie Coquet – an airtight container, in which you can cook a dish without it losing moisture, heat or taste. Is there a dish you’ve created that’s unlike any other? For the Cheval Blanc in Courchevel I macerated meat in barrels from Pierre Lurton and Château d’Yquem and it took on amazing flavours. Also, I love New York hot dogs and created a “veau-chaud” for Terroir Parisien, my Paris restaurant. It’s calf’s head in bread, with gribiche sauce: delicious! A French dish, bursting with flavour, which is easy to make? A thin strawberry tart with berries from Orgeval, on Île-de-France.

Chaplin understood the sorts of destinations her fellow “Gypsetters”

might enjoy: tropical places whose spirit combined the carefree ethos of the gypsy nomad with the sophistication of the jet set, where creativity rather than cash ruled, where the weather was warm and the surf swell. Having criss-crossed the globe, she has published her guide to the 10 top Gypset spots, from the Aeolian Islands in Italy to Lamu in Kenya and Todos Santos in Mexico. Each chapter, accompanied by portraits of arty people and hip places, includes tips on where to stay and eat – and compelling tales of historical figures who made these places their homes. Part travelogue, part style bible, part destination guide, this book is as pretty as it is readable (assouline.com, £30).

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ULTRA APP

SOUVENIR SEARCH

KEMOSABE his family-owned shop in central Aspen is the place to find cowboy gear: not just bolo ties and Stetsons, but the most covetable hand-stitched cowboy boots in the West. Best-sellers, from 200 styles, include the Rios Distressed (left) in summery hues (£400) and the Chocolate Lieutenant, in oiled calf (£650). For shoppers who can’t get to Colorado, items are for sale online – including cowboy hats that can be customised (kemosabe.com)

T

Private Jet Concierge PRIVATEFLY (Free) Skyscanner and Kayak are useful apps for comparing the prices of commercial flights, but what about private jets? Several companies offer this service, the best being PrivateFly. While its rivals such as BlackJet and Globe Air are limited by destination or aircraft type, this UKbased site monitors a global network of more than 7,000 aircraft. Once you have chosen your airports and flight times, its approved operators quote against each other. Prices are naturally in the thousands, although you can save money by searching the unused “empty legs” on one-way flights. With 24-hour support and the ability to arrange charters within 90 minutes, it is a fine and surprisingly affordable step up from first class. Mark Wilson


COUNTDOWN to The Cape

With Cape Town set to become World Design Capital next year, Lisa Grainger reveals her favourite spots in and around the city

5

REASONS TO GO Cape Town is the perfect city for first-time visitors to Africa: no visas are required, most

locals speaks English and, as its clocks are only two hours ahead of Britain, jet lag is minimal. It is particularly appealing to lovers of the outdoors: around the peninsula are pretty beaches to visit (including a couple, at Betty’s Bay and Boulders, with penguins), the impressive Table Mountain to climb and the Kirstenbosch Garden (this year celebrating its centenary) to explore. An hour away are the winelands and their Cape Dutch homesteads and fine restaurants. The city will be World Design Capital next year, showcasing the best of South African creativity, with art exhibitions, events and international talks (capetown2014.co.za).

4

RESTAURANTS The city’s food reflects its inhabitants’ ethnicity – from French

Huguenot to Malay and Zulu – as well as its position between the sea and rich farmland. Star chefs include Cape Town’s first Relais & Chateaux Grand Chef, Peter Tempelhoff, who whips up modern cuisine in Cape Dutch surroundings at the Cellars-Hohenort in Constantia (0027 21 794 2137, cellars-hohenort.com); Luke Dale-Roberts, who delivers inventive platters at the Pot Luck Club in the artsy-crafty Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock (0027 21 447 0804, thepotluckclub. co.za); and Michael Broughton, known for French-inspired dishes at Kleine Zalze in Stellenbosch (0027 21 880 8167, kleinezalze.com). Babylonstoren, a restored 1690 farm in the Drakenstein Valley, grows fruit and vegetables in its glorious gardens (0027 21 863 3852, babylonstoren.com).

3

HOTELS The city has an excellent range, from elegant five-stars to characterful guesthouses. The Top table A farmturned-restaurant, Babylonstoren, known for fresh produce. Far left: intricate local bead-craft

Mount Nelson is the grand old lady, known for high teas (0027 21 483 1000, mountnelson.co.za). Outside the city, Steenberg has pretty 17th-century buildings surrounded by gardens and vines (0027 21 713 2222, steenberghotel.com). At the V&A Waterfront, the One & Only offers slick service and a restaurant headed by Rueben Riffel (0027 21 431 5888, capetown.oneandonlyresorts.com).

2

ESSENTIAL READS Long Walk to Freedom, Nelson Mandela’s autobiography, is a moving account of his early

life, including 27 years in prison. Disgrace, the literary masterpiece that won JM Coetzee the Booker Prize a second time, explores the new South Africa struggling to come to terms with its guilt.

1

THING YOU CANNOT MISS Taking the cable-car up Table Mountain (tablemountain.net) on a sunny day and soaking in

the views, then hiking through the national park, home to the richest variety of plants on earth.

TURNING LEFT

Jane Archer tests the best suites at sea

MASTER SUITE

QUEENS GRILL GRAND DUPLEX

OWNER’S SUITE

WINTERGARDEN SUITE

OWNER’S SUITE

SEVEN SEAS VOYAGER

QUEEN MARY 2

MARINA

SEABOURN ODYSSEY

SILVERSEA SILVER SPIRIT

Design A spacious 1,216 sq ft inside,

Design The Balmoral and Sandringham

Design The suite, furnished by Ralph

Design The 914 sq ft suite incorporates

Design A stylish one-bedroom suite

and 187sq ft on the balcony. The living

Grand Duplex suites are 2,249 sq ft

Lauren Home, spans the width of the

a living room, a dining table for six,

with 1,102 sq ft of living space, plus

and dining room has a large flat-screen

inside, with a 300 sq ft balcony, and split

ship, giving 1,400 sq ft inside. The foyer,

a bathroom for guests and a bedroom

a 190 sq ft balcony (a two-bedroom

television, free bar and guest bathroom

over two levels. Upstairs there is

with grand piano, leads to a living and

with bathroom and whirlpool bath.

suite increases the size to 1,668 sq ft).

and there are two double bedrooms,

a bedroom and marble bathroom with

dining room, and the 626 sq ft balcony

USP Half of the 183 sq ft balcony is

Both bedrooms have ensuite marble

each with ensuite marble bathroom,

a whirlpool tub and downstairs are the

has a whirlpool and television.

enclosed by glass, with a tub and day

bathrooms with separate showers

double basins, separate showers and

living and dining area with a flat-screen

USP The butler, on call 24/7, will serve

bed for sky-lit lounging.

and bath tubs, and Bulgari toiletries.

bathtubs, and walk-in wardrobes.

television and a marble guest bathroom.

dinner from the speciality restaurants.

Why book? What the suite lacks in

The living room has separate sitting

USP Book this suite and you will be

USP The butler keeps you stocked up

There is free loan of a laptop and iPad,

size, Seabourn makes up for with

and dining areas, a flat-screen

upgraded to a business-class flight from

on complimentary wines, spirits and

plus a fridge of goodies on arrival.

personal service that is second to none.

television, guest bathroom and

wherever you fly to join the ship. There

canapés throughout the cruise – so the

Why book? In terms of layout and

Price From £12,799 per person for 12

complimentary bar.

is complimentary use of an iPad,

exercise bike on the landing (with sea

decor, this is luxury with a capital L.

nights in Asia in November, including

USP There is an array of extras at no

king-sized Suite Slumber beds with

views while you pedal) could be useful.

Price From £10,548 for 14 days in the

flights, private transfers, one night pre-

charge, from laundry, dry-cleaning

Egyptian cotton linens, as well as free

There is access to a private lounge and

Baltic in August, with flights and meals

cruise hotel stay, meals, drinks, Wi-fi and

and pressing to four hours of internet

use of the phone for 15 minutes and the

restaurant with single-seating dining, an

(0845 505 1920, oceaniacruises.com).

tips (0843 373 2000, seabourn.co.uk).

use, two hours of phone use and a daily

internet for 30 minutes. The butler

iPad with daily paper downloads, and

newspaper. The butler will also book

delivers a newspaper each morning

priority embarkation, disembarkation

one complimentary dinner for two at

and canapés each evening.

and luggage-delivery privileges.

Le Champagne, Silversea’s Relais

Why book? The master suite is an

Why book? It’s a perfect pad for

& Châteaux wine restaurant (usually

impressive, well laid-out place to stay

parties and there is private dining away

£20 a head, without wine).

with so much included that you really

from the crowds.

do feel privileged.

Price From £12,679 per person for

Price From £14,359 per person for 10

a seven-night transatlantic crossing

nights in the Baltic in July, including

from Southampton to New York in

flights, transfers, drinks, excursions, all

August, including a one-way economy

meals, tips and one-night pre-cruise

flight but excluding speciality dining

hotel stay (02380 682280, rssc.com).

(0843 374 0000, cunard.co.uk)

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Ocean sounds The Owner’s Suite, with grand piano, on board the Marina, an Oceania Cruises ship

Why book? The little extras cost Silversea little but make you feel special. Price From £11,450 per person for a nine-night Mediterranean cruise in October, including drinks and tips, but excluding flights and speciality restaurants (0844 251 0837, silversea.com).


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T

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;I look forward to exploring Africa properly. Botswana, the Victoria Falls and Egypt would be top of my listâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

he tennis star Roger Federer,

currently ranked number two in the world, has his main home in his native Switzerland, but spends much of the year travelling with his wife, Mirka, and their two daughters. His charitable foundation funds the education of thousands of children in Africa. This month he will defend his seventh Wimbledon menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s singles title. How many holidays do you take a year? Two or three. I have to ďŹ t holidays around tournaments, particularly the grand slams, in Melbourne, Paris, London and New York. Do you take your family to tournaments? For now, yes. My twin daughters, Charlene and Myla, are only three, so we still travel as a family, which will change when they start school. What is your favourite city? Rome. I am a sucker for those old traditional places, and Rome is as good as it gets, particularly when you throw in Italian food. Last time I was there, I went on an open-top bus ride with my children, which was wonderful. You are admiring one beautiful old building, then you notice an even better one across the street. Your idea of a perfect holiday spot? Š CREDIT SUISSE

A place where I can get away from it all with my family and enjoy some peace and privacy. The last family holiday I took was in the Maldives, which ďŹ tted the bill perfectly â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it was the third time I had

TRAVELLING LIFE Roger Federer

The Swiss tennis star on the heat and skyscrapers of his second home, Dubai, his eye for fashion and touring with twins been. I think, if I did a non-physical ofďŹ ce job,

What else do you like about Dubai?

take me when I was a child. But I am looking

How does NYC compare to Wimbledon?

I would probably want to be a little bit more

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fun place. All those skyscrapers are amazing.

forward to exploring the continent properly

There is so much to take in: shopping, theatres,

adventurous on holiday â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but, for now, I just

A few years ago, Andre Agassi and I played

when I have a bit more time on my hands. Top

restaurants, art galleries. I always feel super-happy

want to relax and feel the sand between my toes.

a game of tennis on the highest court in the

of my wish-list would probably be Botswana,

when I arrive, but not too unhappy when I leave.

Where else have you visited recently?

world, on the helipad of the Burj Al Arab hotel.

the Victoria Falls and Egypt.

What do you do when a big game is over?

Mauritius, the Seychelles, Thailand, the

I recently had breakfast on the 123rd ďŹ&#x201A;oor of the

Do you follow other sports while travelling?

Win or lose, I think it is important to thank the

Caribbeanâ&#x20AC;Ś As you can tell from that list, I like

Burj Khalifa, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tallest building, in the

Wherever I am in the world, I take an interest in

people who have come to support me. My

beautiful places with quiet beaches.

middle of a thunderstorm. That was pretty cool.

sports with which the locals are obsessed.

entourage is much bigger than the one you see

Which Caribbean island?

Any favourite Dubai restaurants?

In Australia, I follow cricket, and in the United

in the playersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; box â&#x20AC;&#x201C; there were 75 of us at last

I would rather not say.

La Petite Maison is fabulous. There are also some

States, I follow basketball and the NFL.

yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s French Open. So we will go out somewhere

So privacy is important to you?

great restaurants on the Palm, including Voi,

How about shopping?

together, probably to a nice restaurant. I hate

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mind fans coming up in a friendly,

which serves French-inďŹ&#x201A;uenced Vietnamese food.

If I go shopping for clothes, I am like most men â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

those noisy nightclubs where you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t chat.

respectful way. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all part of the fun of being

Where else in Asia appeals?

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hang about. I get what I am after â&#x20AC;&#x201C; say,

If you win, do you celebrate with a drink?

a top tennis player. But if people take pictures

So many places. It is an extraordinary part of the

a shirt, a pair of jeans and some trainers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m

Of course â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and these days, it tends to be

without permission, particularly if my children

world. I always enjoy trips to China. My tennis

done. I like to think I have a good, quick eye for

champagne. I have recently become the brand

are in the shot, I feel uncomfortable.

schedule involves regular events in Shanghai

fashion. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve outgrown the time when I did dumb

ambassador for MoĂŤt & Chandon, following in the

Where do you train between tournaments?

and Beijing, but the big cities are just a tiny part

things like dressing head to toe in white.

footsteps of Scarlett Johannson, which is quite

I use Dubai as my training base and own an

of the story. I have also been to India with Unicef,

Any favourite labels?

an honour. I feel part of a glamorous tradition.

apartment there â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I have been going since 2004.

which was an incredible experience, and I really

I recently bought a pair of Louis Vuitton shoes that

Have you visited the Champagne region?

In the winter, it offers the ideal climate for training.

enjoyed Japan. Further down the line, I would love

are the most comfortable I have ever owned.

MoĂŤt & Chandon took me on a tour of their

The heat can be intense â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I have known

to go to Vietnam and Cambodia.

Where do you stay during tournaments?

vineyards last year and I stayed at the Château

temperatures as high as 48C â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mind.

How about Africa?

During Wimbledon, I rent a house in Wimbledon

de Saran near Epernay, where the company

It is also perfectly located for when I have to

Well, my mother is South African, but I havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

Village, otherwise â&#x20AC;&#x201C; for example during the US

entertains VIPs. It was a wonderful experience.

travel to Australia or the Far East.

seen many other African countries â&#x20AC;&#x201C; she didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

Open in New York â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I stay in city-centre hotels.

Interview by Max Davidson

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