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GWYNETH PALTROW’S Plus ULTRASAIL YOUR GUIDE TO HEAVEN ON WATER PIERS MORGAN & CELIA WALDEN IN NEW YORK ROGER FEDERER’S GLOBAL ADVENTURES
FINEST THINGS IN LUXURY TRAVEL
For information contact SRL Marketing Ltd on 01753 883265. To book contact your preferred travel professional. www.letouessrokresort.com
TEE TIME SPA TIME THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL
is a world-renowned golf resort and spa set on 850 acres of breathtaking Scottish countryside conveniently located just one hour from Glasgow International Airport. If you wish to arrive by train, Gleneagles is the only resort in the country with its own train station, located just 2 miles away with a daily train direct from London King’s Cross. Inspired by Scotland’s dramatic natural beauty, the hotel features 232 luxury bedrooms and suites reflective of the property’s rich history and heritage, which dates back to 1924.
The award-winning Spa at Gleneagles by ESPA is a sanctuary within the hotel offering traditional spa therapies along with wellness and alternative therapy treatments such as nutritional advice, osteopathy, naturopathy, acupuncture and personal training.
TEE OFF at the RYDER CUP Since its inception, golf has played a significant role in Gleneagles’ history. Next
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
The Gleneagles Hotel boasts a rich array of outdoor pursuits in the Scottish tradition, including clay target shooting, archery, trout fishing, gundog training and falconry, as well as tennis, swimming, croquet, cycling and pitch and putt. There’s also an equestrian school on the grounds.
Only one hour’s drive from both Edinburgh and Glasgow airport and daily train from London King’s Cross direct to Gleneagles train station. Three nights from £990 per room based on two people sharing a Sovereign room and including the renowned Gleneagles’ breakfast. To book your stay call 0800 169 2984 or email firstname.lastname@example.org or visit www.gleneagles.com
year it is set to host The 2014 Ryder Cup on The PGA Centenary Course, one of three championship golf courses on the property—which is regarded as one of the finest spectator courses in the world. In addition to the Jack Nicklaus designed PGA Centenary Course, Gleneagles also boasts The King’s and Queen’s Courses, designed by James Braid, a 9-hole par 3 course and The PGA National Golf Academy.
WINE & DINE
From the grand formality of The Strathearn to the bustling vibe of Deseo, from the Michelin Star magnificence of Andrew Fairlie to the clubby ambience of the Clubhouse Bar & Grill, Gleneagles has a restaurant to satisfy all preferences.
TWO STARS AT GLENEAGLES Whether itâ€™s enjoying dinner by Andrew Fairlie, the only chef in Scotland to hold two Michelin stars, or getting to know Nigel, our resident Golden Eagle, a trip to Gleneagles is always a memorable experience. We do advise advance booking. Nigel is very popular. To plan your visit please call 0800 169 2984 and quote "Ultratravel"
The Gleneagles Hotel
Internet: www.gleneagles.com Email:email@example.com The GLENEAGLES words and the EAGLE device are trademarks
PHOTOGRAPHER: ADAM PARKER. STYLIST: ARABELLA BOYCE AT RED REPRESENTS. COTTON TWEED JACKET, £2,250; JERSEY SWIMSUIT, £390; LEATHER BAG, £1,415, ALL BY CHANEL (020 7493 5040). ORBIT SUNGLASSES BY KAREN WALKER EYEWEAR, £180, AND BELLANTOMOD SHOE-BOOTS BY MANOLO BLAHNIK FOR VICTORIA BECKHAM, £700, BOTH FROM LIBERTY (020 7734 1234)
28 Gwyneth Paltrow’s LA The American actress gives the lowdown on the city where she was born, from where she dines out with Chris Martin to the beaches, bars and shops she frequents 34 Fresh Mauritius The Indian Ocean island has undergone a surge in popularity, thanks to a swathe of new hotels, gourmet events, spa treatments and activities from skydiving to kite-surﬁng. Nicki Grihault reports 41 The Ultratravel 100 In our annual awards, we name the 100 ﬁnest things in luxury travel – as chosen by you 48 Ultrasail Our 16-page sailing and cruising special begins on board Panthalassa, a 184ft superyacht equipped
with toys ranging from an underwater scooter to a hydraulic swim-platform. Nigel Tisdall joins her in the Caribbean 57 Happy landings The best shore excursions are all about adventure and access to unusual places. Sue Bryant picks 10 of the best, from camping on the Antarctic ice-shelf to swimming with sea lions 61 Floating collections Some cruise ships rival art galleries for the works on show, says Norman Miller 66 I spy from my little eyrie Our writers check in at six of the ﬁnest hotel suites with even ﬁner views
11 Editor’s letter Charles Starmer-Smith on cruise ships, superyachts and the narrowing gap between them 13 The next big thing Cruising gets cool, plus news from the world of luxury travel, compiled by John O’Ceallaigh 17 Accessories Three pages of essential advice – on beauty, gadgets and fashion 22 Up front with John Simpson The BBC’s world affairs editor ﬁnally became a true Paris local when, after 14 years of Sunday lunches, the maître d’ at his favourite restaurant addressed him by name
24 Aﬁcionado The Australian designer Marc Newson reveals what has inspired him on his travels 27 Mr & Mrs In our new series, Celia Walden and Piers Morgan are impressed by wildly different
aspects of a stay in the Empire Suite of the recently refurbished Carlyle hotel in New York 77 Intelligence Countdown to The Cape; the best suites at sea; and a masterclass with Yannick Alléno 82 Travelling life When tennis star Roger Federer goes on holiday, it’s all about sunshine and glorious beaches
U LT R A S A I L Page 48 Our 16-page cruising and sailing special features the superyacht Panthalassa, shot on location for Ultratravel in St Martin/St Maarten
© Telegraph Media Group Limited 2013. Published by TELEGRAPH MEDIA GROUP, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT, and printed by Polestar UK Limited. Colour reproduction by groupfmg.com. Not to be sold separately from The Daily Telegraph. Ultratravel is a registered trademark licensed to The Daily Telegraph by PGP Media Limited
The B lueprinT
The inspir aTion for your Jumeir ah experience every where Creating the worldâ€™s most luxurious hotel made us think differently. Find your Jumeirah experience at jumeirah.com/experiences
THE LIFE AQUATIC It was the summer of 2005 on the French Riviera and a bevy of
New wave The renovated Constance Le Prince Maurice in Mauritius (page 34)
models were giggling as the bachelor son of a shipping magnate held court on the deck of his new 300ft yacht. I joined in the clinking of champagne glasses to mark its launch. So far, so St-Tropez. For this vessel was a head-turner all right. Its name? EasyCruise One. This was Steliosâ€™s foray into cruising: a gloriďŹ ed ferry with orange walls, uninspiring food, basic cabins and achingly cheesy entertainment. â€œHow do you become a millionaire?â€? he asked, as we neared St-Tropez, then answered: â€œBe a billionaire and start a low-cost airlineâ€?. He would soon add the phrase â€œno-frills cruise lineâ€? to his favourite joke. For a ďŹ rst-time cruiser like me, the bar had been set pretty low. Fast forward eight years and I found myself on board another vessel. This time, it was the son of a property magnate taking centre stage â€“ a Cosmopolitan in hand, a pop singer on his arm and an audience hanging on his every word. As we cruised around the bay of St-Tropez, beautiful staff in preppy outďŹ ts whizzed about the teak decks dispensing G&Ts. We dropped anchor and the requisite â€œboysâ€™ toysâ€? were brought out, the music was turned up and the air was ďŹ lled with jet-spray and squeals. A tender arrived to whisk us ashore for a long, rosĂŠ-fuelled lunch at Nikki Beach. It was a brief ďŹ‚irtation with the world encountered by Nigel Tisdall on the superyacht Panthalassa in the Caribbean (page 48) â€“ and whatâ€™s not to like? But my point is this: the gap between cruise ships and yachts is not so yawning. Stelios had misjudged the mood. Passengers want more, not less â€“ and they are prepared to pay. Ships have had to become more like yachts: smaller and sleeker, with facilities to match. The buffet is out, Michelin-starred chefs are in; for bingo, cards and shufďŹ‚eboard, read boutiques, cinemas and spas. Staff often outnumber passengers, suites have become ever more sophisticated and that Matisse on the wall (page 61) is probably an original. Then there is the access a cruise gives to unique adventures ashore, from hot-air ballooning over the North Pole to helicopter rides above active volcanoes (page 57). Welcome to the summer issue of Ultratravel, your guide to heaven on earth â€“ and water.
Smooth waters The pool and bamboo stand at Norwood House, on the Tea Trails estate, Sri Lanka (page 54)
FOR THE LATEST IN LUXURY TRAVEL telegraph.co.uk/ ultratravel
Gwyneth Paltrow photographed by Carter Smith/Art + Commerce
Roger Federer The Swiss tennis star travels with an entourage of up to 75 â€“ to tournaments, that is. No wonder he likes his holidays â€“ with his wife and young twin daughters â€“ to be as quiet as possible, on a peaceful, balmy beach
Marc Newson Japan, hardware stores and nature fascinate the Sydney-born designer. His pet hate? Design hotels. â€œThe design of a hotel isnâ€™t the most important thing â€“ what matters is functionality, and making guests feel at homeâ€?
Aurelia Donaldson The Telegraphâ€™s online fashion expert has a perfect pedigree: her sister is the model Lily Donaldson and her father the fashion photographer Matthew Donaldson. She styles our shoot about the English look
Adam Parker Shooting in the Caribbean for our Ultrasail section, the well-travelled London-based photographer got a taste for life at sea â€“ so much so that he is making plans to explore the Mediterranean by boat this summer
Celia Walden For a new series, Mr & Mrs, the Telegraph columnist and her husband, Piers Morgan, checked into The Carlyle, New York. While she was entranced by the views and the bedside LadurĂŠe macaroons, for him it was all about the nine televisions
Editor Charles Starmer-Smith Creative director Johnny Morris Managing editor Andrew Purvis Deputy editor Lisa Grainger Sub-editor Yolanda Carslaw Photography editor Joe Plimmer Contributing editor John Oâ€™Ceallaigh Intern Matthew Brant Executive publisher for Ultratravel Limited Nick Perry Publisher Toby Moore Advertising inquiries 07768 106322 (Nick Perry) 020 7931 3239 (Andrew Wiltshire) Ultratravel, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT Twitter @TeleLuxTravel
CirCumnavigation of the globe a t r u lY e XC e P t i o n a l lu X u r Y to u r , bY P r i vat e J e t
Ever since the discovery that the world was round, travellers have been fascinated by the idea of circumnavigating it. Now, Captain’s Choice offer you the opportunity to make this oncein-a-lifetime journey in the comfort and luxury of our private jet. Freed from the constraints of scheduled transport, this 21 day itinerary lets you explore the world’s most iconic and exotic places in a style which would simply not be possible otherwise. You will travel aboard our spacious jet, stay at the finest hotels and enjoy gourmet dining, with your every need taken care of by an experienced escort team which includes a tour doctor. Taking off from London, you will head west across the Atlantic to Merida, in Mexico, gateway to the ancient Mayan city of Chichen Itza. Your second stop is vibrant Rio de Janeiro in Brazil, alive with the rhythms of the Samba. Then it’s a short flight to one of the world’s most spectacular waterfalls, Iguassu falls. Heading out over the Pacific, you’ll touch down on remote Easter Island, dotted with its almost 800 mysterious Moai statues. Tahiti, the spectacularly beautiful island nation is your next destination, before your flight across the international dateline to Australia. Here, you’ll land in Sydney, often described as one of the world’s favourite cities. Climb the harbour bridge, or simply marvel at the iconic Opera House from your hotel window. After a three night stay you’ll head north aboard your private jet to Cambodia where you will visit the astonishing temple site of Angkor Wat. Then it’s onward to India, and a stay in Agra, with a view of one of the world’s most iconic buildings, the Taj Mahal, from your bedroom window. The final leg of this incredible journey takes you to Africa, for a stay in the Serengeti National Park, with its breathtaking scenery and fascinating wildlife. Then, boarding your private jet for the last time, you’ll fly back to London with memories of your trip that will last a lifetime. Captain’s Choice Circumnavigation of the Globe tour departs in March 2015. You can start your journey today by calling for a brochure or by visiting our website.
ta h i t i
Simply the fineSt way to See the world Call 0845 304 7192 www.CaPtainsChoiCe.Co.uk/roundtheworld
2 COMPILED BY JOHN Oâ€™CEALLAIGH
the NEXT BIG THING
1 5 3
COMPILED BY JOHN Oâ€™CEALLAIGH
Cruising gets cooler â€“ and we predict what will come next; plus, overleaf, more news from the world of luxury travel
tâ€™s time to relinquish outdated notions
acre of growing grass, on which guests can play
cards? Or extras tailored to a guestâ€™s tastes â€“
or signature suites created by credible
about bland buffets, dull days at sea and
boules, lounge on rugs and drink Pimmâ€™s. Other
a bouquet of favourite ďŹ‚owers, say, or a certain
designers? Carpets updated by Christian Lacroix
cheesy cabaret acts. Discerning cruise
companies should consider following suit with
type of scented candle. These little touches
and bed linens by Karl Lagerfeld would be a hit.
passengers can now enjoy exceptional
settings that surprise, delight and inform while
should make passengers feel as though they
spa treatments, cuisine prepared by world-class
breaking up the endless sea views. Weâ€™d like to
have arrived at a home from home, and are
chefs and enrichment programmes led by
see themed gardens in the style of the Chelsea
travelling with a company that recognises
Even the most spacious cruise ship can feel
renowned experts. But while cruising has
Flower Show and habitats that replicate some of
and values their individuality.
constricting, so we would welcome more
undoubtedly undergone a sea change, still more
those visited for just a few short hours on land.
imaginative opportunities to explore beyond
their perimeter. Lindblad Expeditionsâ€™ National
On Solstice Class ships operated by Celebrity
Geographic Endeavour already entices
Scenic Tours river ships feature inside-outside
Cruises, the thoughts of diners inevitably turn
adventurers with its ROV, a remote-operated
how they might be used as a springboard
balconies which, using a one-touch control, can
to (ordering more) drink when they see the
vehicle that can descend to 1,000ft. Introducing
to make cruising even more appealing.
be converted into a covered lounging area should
imposing two-storey wine tower designed by
miniature submarines which can dive for longer
blustery weather strike. Itâ€™s a relatively simple
Adam Tihany, who created the interiors for the
and accommodate more people could be the
way to make passengers more comfortable in
Mandarin Oriental in Las Vegas, the Shangri-la
next step for cruise lines. Larger ships,
The ReďŹ‚ection Suite on Celebrity ReďŹ‚ection has
their cabins, but we would like to see cruise lines
in Singapore and Aureole restaurant in New York.
meanwhile, should follow the lead of smaller
a pioneering feature: a cantilevered, glass-walled
go farther by introducing personalised comforts.
Further partnerships with sought-after designers
vessels and add helipads. A private jaunt to
shower suspended over the ocean. This month,
How about in-room Kindles pre-loaded with
could help modernise the image of cruising and
a deserted island could be a popular extra with
when Princess Cruises launches Royal Princess,
those books guests have never quite got round
broaden its appeal. Why not follow the example
guests willing to hire an on-board helicopter â€“
among the shipâ€™s novelties will be the SeaWalk â€“
to reading? A ďŹ ngerprint-recognition keypad that
set by airlines, with lounges and public areas
a memorable and intimate escape that would
a looped, glass-bottomed walkway hovering 128ft
does away with the annoyance of losing room
conceived by high-proďŹ le interior decorators,
be perfect for anyone planning a proposal.
could be done to encourage travellers to try this often maligned type of holiday. Here, we look
at some of the best innovations and suggest
THE LIFE AQUATIC
above the water. What we would like to see next, for guests sequestered in windowless cabins, are digital portholes broadcasting footage of the seascape surrounding the ship, with live feeds and documentary reels ensuring that no guest misses out on the sea life swimming by.
YVIRTUAL DESTINATIONS Royal Caribbeanâ€™s Oasis of the Seas invigorated
ILLUSTRATION: TANIA WILLIS
the cruise experience with Central Park, a green space with more than 12,000 trees, plants, vines and ďŹ‚owers. Dense with tropical foliage and seasonal blooms, it is an incongruous but welcome addition to the ship. Celebrity Cruises, meanwhile, employs full-time lawnkeepers on Solstice Class ships to groom and water half an
Clear thinking SeaWalk, a looped, glass-bottomed walkway (far left) on Royal Princess. Left: a glass wine tower designed by Adam Tihany, a feature on Celebrity Solstice ships
the NEXT BIG THING
n the last issue of Ultratravel, we reported
on celebrations in Italy marking Lamborghiniâ€™s 50th anniversary. This year is
also the 100th birthday of Aston Martin, which announced the milestone by hoisting its new Vanquish model on to the cantilevered helipad of Dubaiâ€™s Burj Al Arab hotel (right). Back on home soil, the party continues with an appropriately British series of never-to-be-
repeated events. Convoys of Aston Martins
he horse meat scandal caused
will tour the most beautiful routes in England
consternation for those of us who
and Scotland and a week of events at the
discovered that, all this time, our
companyâ€™s headquarters in Warwickshire will
lasagne was equine, not bovine, but
include exhibitions, factory visits and design
it has also provoked wider examination of
master classes. On July 21, the celebrations
what we eat. Luxury retreats are expected to
culminate in Kensington Gardens with the
serve quality produce, but a growing number
largest gathering of Aston Martins in history.
are now focusing on provenance. One trend is for customers to be served â€œhyper-localâ€? food, another for them to procure the ingredients for their meals themselves. Manhattan is an unlikely source for fresh, natural produce, but guests at the mid-range
z DRIVE AN F1 CAR AT SELFRIDGES
Ensconced in its second century, Selfridges still sets trends in retail. From June 24, the department storeâ€™s Wonder Room will house a Mercedes AMB Petronas F1 simulator car and virtual wind tunnel â€“ a ďŹ rst in UK retail â€“ to rouse shoppers left catatonic by the demands of Oxford Street. Sponsored by IWC Schafhausen, the three-week event will also show the watch brandâ€™s entire Ingenieur collection for the ďŹ rst time.
Nyma hotel can book a foraging tour led by â€œWildmanâ€? Steve Brill (above). The naturalist guides visitors through New Yorkâ€™s green spaces in search of edible bark, berries and leaves. In Florence, guests at Villa La Massa can join the hotelâ€™s trifolau and his trufďŹ‚ehunting dog in search of the elusive tartufo bianco (white trufďŹ‚e). At The Sarojin, Thailand, residents who book the â€œcatch, cook and dineâ€? package can ďŹ sh for snapper using a traditional line, before being taught about local cuisine by the resortâ€™s executive chef. Too much effort? It may be sufďŹ ciently reassuring to know that your chosen destination has its own farm. In Turkey, the
NEW HOTELS FOR SUMMER
Dionysos Estate hotel sources its wine, olive oil, fruit and vegetables from an organic farm
ccupying a palazzo dating from the 16th century,
just up the mountain. In central Toronto,
the ďŹ rst Italian outpost of Aman Resorts, Aman
meanwhile, the Fairmont Royal York (below)
Canal Grande Venice (below), opens this month.
has developed a rooftop garden with six
With just 24 suites, social areas reserved exclusively
beehives housing 350,000 honeybees.
for resort guests, and two private gardens, the
The resident animal at El Encanto in
property should provide a peaceful refuge for visitors
California is Ellie the cow, whose milk is used
to the city during the Venice Biennale, which runs until
to make the hotelâ€™s cheese. However, donâ€™t
November. For a weekend break closer to home, the
get too attached to the cute Javan rusa deer
â€œbeyond-boutiqueâ€? hotel Brimstone, on the Langdale
found on the Domaine de Bel Ombre
Estate in the Lake District, also opens in June. In July, The Langham, Chicago is set to open downtown in a 52-storey tower designed by Mies van der Rohe.
estate in Mauritius. Come culling season, they
z SEEN IN PRINT
are slaughtered and served in the estateâ€™s two ďŹ ve-star resorts, Heritage Le Telfair
Meanwhile, a new base for exploring the cultural
For some time, 3D printing has been used
offerings of St Petersburg can be found from August,
to make objects â€“ from vases to a nylon
and Heritage Awali. Anyone with an
when the cityâ€™s new Four Seasons hotel
gown for Dita Von Teese (left). Now the
appetite for butchery, however, can join a
opens within a 19th-century Russian royal palace.
race is on to construct the worldâ€™s ďŹ rst
cooking class, called â€œA pig in a dayâ€?, at Alila
3D-printed house. DUS Architects in
Ubud in Bali. Participants learn how to divide
the Netherlands is attempting to build
a pig into ďŹ ve cuts, before making chorizo,
a full-sized canal house in Amsterdam,
bacon, sausages and ham from the carcass.
using an enormous purpose-built printer to create the plastic components that will form the structure. The ďŹ rm hopes the buildingâ€™s facade will be
FOR THE LATEST IN LUXURY TRAVEL telegraph.co.uk/ ultratravel
erected by the end of this year.
ULTRA 1 If you canâ€™t be without glossy lashes, even in or on the water, opt for a waterproof conditioning mascara such as Beaute Waterproof Mascara by Paul & Joe. For an overnight treatment, open a vitamin-E capsule and stroke its contents on your lashes with a Q-tip.
Sailing, surďŹ ng, snorkelling or simply taking a cooling dip can wreak havoc on skin and hair. Kate Shapland gives advice on protection that wonâ€™t wash off
2 Sunscreens formulated for the face provide protection and contain antioxidants, said to reduce the signs of ageing. Some have a cosmetic beneďŹ t, too: Shiseido Sun Protection Lip Treatment SPF20 is opaque white and can also be used on the cheeks and nose.
3 Lips can chap quickly on a boat; ďŹ rst they need protection, then a hint of colour. Instant Smooth Crystal Lip Balm, by Clarins, provides both; apply it direct to your lips or over a layer of sunscreen.
4 Keep your hair protected from sea air, salt and UV rays by applying a protective conditioner. Swimcap, by Philip Kingsley, was originally made for the US Olympic synchronised swimming team. Use it as a regular conditioner, too, after washing your hair.
5 Use a sunscreen that is waterproof, sweat-proof and quickly absorbed, with a broad-spectrum SPF of at least 30. Prosport SPF35 is the choice of pro surfers because it ticks all these boxes and needs to be applied only once for a full eight hoursâ€™ protection.
At its most mineral-rich, seawater can stave off the effects of ageing and help repair chronic skin conditions such as psoriasis. But the sea is also tough on skin and hair, especially when combined with a drying wind and a baking sun. Water reďŹ‚ects 10 per cent of ultraviolet rays, and sea foam 25 per cent â€“ so, although a day on (and in) the sea is invigorating, it is a challenge to reap the beneďŹ ts without the drawbacks of parched, burnt, sore skin and hair as dry as straw. On board a boat, you need high-performance products that donâ€™t wash off each time you dive in and are easily absorbed, so you donâ€™t slip around on deck.
1 Beaute Waterproof Mascara by Paul & Joe, ÂŁ19 (beautybay.com). 2 Shiseido Sun Protection Lip Treatment SPF20 ÂŁ20 (houseoffraser.com). 3 Instant Smooth Crystal Lip Balm by Clarins, ÂŁ18 (clarins.co.uk). 4 Swimcap hair conditioner by Philip Kingsley, ÂŁ20 (philipkingsley. co.uk). 5 Prosport SPF35 waterproof sunscreen ÂŁ17.99 (prosportsunscreen.co.uk).
For summer manoeuvres in, on or under the water, deploy some shockproof technology, says
1 Lace loafer ÂŁ100 (0161 222 8048, swims.com). A mix of grippy boat-shoe and stylish loafer, this rubber and nylon slip-on, by Swims, is equally at home on the beach or on deck. A water-resistant exterior keeps splashes at bay, and ventilation slits allow the feet to breathe. 2 Jet ski customised by Venom Design ÂŁ28,999, from Harrods (020 7730 1234). Whether jet skiers want to modify an existing craft or spec up a new one, Venom Design will give it the tech trim. This Sea-Doo model has a waterproof phone, leather upholstery and an iPod sound system. 3 Pentax WG3-GPS camera ÂŁ329 (0870 736 8299, pentax.co.uk). Waterproof to 46ft, this rugged compact has a fast F2.0 lens for sharp underwater snaps. A shake-reduction system helps prevent motion blur and its built-in GPS records the position, time and underwater depth of each picture.
4 Soundshooter speaker ÂŁ40 (0800 048 0408, store.apple.com/uk). This palm-sized Bluetooth speaker, by Philips, is ideal for explosive outdoor tunes. It hooks to a belt or bag with a carabiner, has enough battery life to play eight hours of music, and a microphone enabling hands-free calls via a smartphone. 5 Seamaster PloProf 1,200m ÂŁ6,150 (0845 272 3100, omegawatches.com). Omegaâ€™s indestructible and pioneering 1970 classic has had an update: additions include an ultra-accurate movement and a security button for locking the bezel on deep dives. 6 Archimedes wetsuit ÂŁ495 (01322 605601, huubdesign.com/shopuk). Designed for open-water swimming, this Huub wetsuit is the choice of the Olympic triathlon champion Alistair Brownlee. Support zones keep the body well aligned in the water and there is a speedy one-pull zipper.
Goingcommando 7 Kayak 1 ÂŁ10,100 (mclellanjacobs.com). Made from carbon fibre by a team of Americaâ€™s Cup boat-builders, this solo kayak has gold-plated fittings, teak detailing and a tough, UV-resistant finish. Other features can be made to order.
Holidays off to a tea
The art of dressing for the summer social season lies in the understated detail, writes Aurelia Donaldson. Instead of loud, bright look-at-me dresses, opt for delicate pastel hues and sugar-sweet shades of yellow, blue and pink. Keep the accessories playful but minimal: a clutch that makes people look twice, or a killer pair of heels to match your ladylike dress. Perfecting your garden-party etiquette now means that, when abroad, you will be more English rose than English tourist
HAIR AND MAKE-UP: KRYSTLE G USING PAUL MITCHELL; MODEL: EMILY BYRON AT SELECT MODELS; CROQUET SET SUPPLIED BY JAQUESLONDON.CO.UK
Ria dress ÂŁ2,380, by Erdem (erdem.co.uk). Malory high-heel pumps ÂŁ375, by Rupert Sanderson (020 7491 2260, rupertsanderson.com). Cosmos pendant ÂŁ175, by Astley Clarke Biography (020 7706 0060, astleyclarke.com). Moonstone ring ÂŁ195, by Astley Clarke Colour (as before). Left: Blue Scent clutch bag ÂŁ795, by Charlotte Olympia (020 7499 0145, charlotteolympia.com). Shot for Ultratravel on the croquet lawn at The Goring (thegoring.com), holder of the British Tea Guild Council 2013 Top London Afternoon Tea Award PHOTOGRAPH BY JOE PLIMMER
lady who runs the rugby-and-gastronomy shop opposite â€“ a delightful person, as you might expect â€“ phoned our concierge, who phoned a friend, who very kindly wrote a cheque. Our front door stayed unbattered. The rugby-and-gastronomy lady is one of the few survivors from the period of our arrival. Other shops that made the quarter a joy to live in have faltered and changed hands. Her neighbour was an eccentric called Lilac, whose beauty salon, car, dogs, clothes and hair were all coloured a lightish purple, and who spent one evening a week singing at a nightclub. She wrote her own songs, which were heavy with sexy deep breathing and rather arty, if thin on words. My favourite, which she used to sing to me, was â€œProust at Cabourgâ€?, Cabourg being the lovely little Norman seaside resort where the madeleine king spent his downtime. That was actually the entire song; she just repeated the phrase over and over again. Many other businesses have gone now: the antique shop, the handyman shop, the ďŹ‚ower shop where I used to buy peonies for my wife and which was run by two charming elderly gay men, both wearing ill-ďŹ tting wigs. They had a large old dog of indeterminate breed whose smell outclassed even that of the ďŹ‚owers, and a huge aviary ďŹ lled with noisy, irritated little birds. My son, now seven, used to clamour to go with me. Today a pleasant young couple have taken on the place, but itâ€™s not the same: no birds, no bad smell, no hairpieces, just quick, efďŹ cient service. My kid isnâ€™t interested any more. Fortunately the ďŹ n-de-siĂ¨cle bakery is still going, as is the chicken-rĂ´tisseur who makes approving noises when my wife
Thee Obam Obamasâ€™ arrival was the biggest thing thatâ€™s happened to our street since the last aristos were guillotined on the Champ de Mars
f you did Latin at school, you will remember there are certain words which expect the answer â€œNoâ€?. Nowadays there are certain questions which expect the answer â€œAhhhâ€?, uttered in praise and envy. For instance: â€œWhere do you live?â€? â€œCape Town.â€? â€œAhhhâ€Śâ€? Thereâ€™s a big difference if you reply â€œJohannesburgâ€?, which expects the answer â€œUmmmâ€Śâ€?, said in commiseration, though in my opinion Joâ€™burg is a sharper and more lively place than Cape Town, with a nicer climate. Paris is an archetypical â€œAhhhâ€Śâ€? place to live. Sure, it isnâ€™t what it was when I ďŹ rst went there, in the early 1960s, but where is? Rome? Please. New York? Come off it. London? Well, yes: London is a lot better. But Paris is still what we always longed for it to be, the day before we ďŹ rst went there. Iâ€™ve been a part-time Parisian for 14 years. Our small ďŹ‚at is in one of those long streets which run along the Left Bank parallel to the Seine and fetch up at the Champ de Mars. If the Eiffel Tower fell down, its radio mast would just ďŹ‚ick the roof of our mid-19th-century building. Ownership makes us feel like locals, and itâ€™s not been a bad investment. Sometimes, though, itâ€™s been a burden; in 2003, when I reported on the invasion of Iraq and got blown up by the Americans, I didnâ€™t visit Paris from January to April, and neither did my wife. So we missed seeing the letter from the council warning that if we didnâ€™t pay our rates (which weâ€™d forgotten about) theyâ€™d come and seize our possessions to the required value. And indeed a Swat team from the town hall duly turned up, armed with a battering ram, to grab their due. Fortunately, the
walks past. Still, our street has been, if not gentriďŹ ed (it has always been full of the elderly upper-middle characters whom my left-wing friends call, disparagingly, â€œcollabosâ€?, short for collaborators) then upgraded to the 21st century â€“ by which I mean more corporate. When jewellery or hat shops close, they are replaced by estate agents or banks. (Not by chemists, though. The French being a nation of automedicators, there are three within 100 yards.) Six estate agents and ďŹ ve banks have set up around us, outnumbered only (thank God) by eating places. The excellent restaurant on the corner recently awarded me its customer equivalent of a rosette. Iâ€™ve been booking tables for Sunday lunch there ever since we arrived in the quartier, and each time Iâ€™ve had to spell out my name laboriously â€“ until a few weeks ago, when the maitre dâ€™ said, â€œMerci, Monsieur Simpson.â€? After 14 years, apparently I exist. But the restaurant is now very expensive. It doubled its prices after President Sarkozy, a long-time fan, advised President Barack Obama to take his family there. The Obamasâ€™ arrival was the biggest thing thatâ€™s happened to our street since the last aristos were guillotined on the Champ de Mars. Twenty cars ďŹ lled with not very secret servicemen shut off the entire block; suited, brawny characters installed themselves in every shop. Except â€“ no surprise, this â€“ for Lilacâ€™s. â€œGet out of my shop, you gorilla,â€? she yelled in her sort-of English. â€œIf you touch me Iâ€™ll charge you with rape.â€? The brawny suit knew she meant it, and stood outside all dinner long. I miss Lilac. Her old beauty salon was recently bought by a bank.
ILLUSTRATION: ROMY BLUMEL; PHOTOGRAPH: MARTIN POPE
Even in the quiet, civilised Parisian district where he has a second home, the BBC veteran canâ€™t help uncovering stories
MARC NEWSON DESIGNER
The enriched light and colour of India, old tools in a hardware shop, zooplankton and Japanese connectedness have shaped his vision
There are a few hundred master craftsmen in Japan whose skills are so valuable the government has deemed them national living treasures. When you visit the temples in Kyoto, you realise why. One craftsman might do only a certain type of woodwork, another might make blades for a very specific type of sword, or tie-dye cloth in a very special way. The Japanese have retained ancient crafts and skills that we have lost.
hen, as a young boy, Marc Newson (right) discovered the space-age Jetsons â€“ 1960s comic-book characters who zipped around in perfectly-formed aerocars â€“ the
Australian knew what he wanted to do: design futuristic products. Today, in addition to more static designs such as his Orgone Stretch sofa (far right), he has created the highly
n a new city, Iâ€™ll often wander into a hardware
mobile Kelvin40 personal jet (commissioned by the
shop; you can tell a lot about a culture from its
Fondation Cartier in Paris), the limited-edition Aquariva boat
hardware. Most things we use which have been
(above) and the seats and interiors for the Qantas A380.
â€œdesignedâ€? are hideous. Yet, in a local DIY
Since conceiving his beaten-aluminium Lockheed
merchantâ€™s shop in Vietnam, youâ€™ll find a perfect
Lounge chaise-longue in 1986, he has spent about half his
little old tool that is beautiful as well as functional.
life travelling around the world, both as a designer and as
a judge in international competitions such as the Cartier Concours dâ€™Elegance in Mumbai. Although most of his journeys have been in first class, he says he yearns â€œto travel in the way I used to when I was younger. Then, there
When I was designing my Nike
was always time to chill and explore the environment and
Zvezdochka shoe [a mesh
do whatever activity was right for that place. I used to ski
bootie with a perforated
like a maniac for about 25 days a year, and go surfing, hiking and camping. Now â€˜travellingâ€™ means sitting on
outer shell], one thing that
planesâ€? â€“ often, on the Qantas seats he designed himself.
influenced me was
â€šâ€š ANDREW CROWLEY; ALAMY; GETTY
My spiritual birthplace is Japan. Its food is connected to its Shinto temples (right), its engineering to its flower arranging. As a designer, I respond to that â€“ that thereâ€™s a thread linking it all makes sense. It gives it a soul. When I arrive there, I feel Iâ€™m home.
I love cars, and I have several: a 1950s Ferrari, an Aston Martin in a weird celadon green, an acid-green 1969 Lamborghiniâ€Ś The feeling of freedom, whizzing through beautiful countryside in a beautiful old car, is like nothing else.
My pet hate is design hotels. I canâ€™t tell you how much I hate them. What their creators fail to realise is that, even if you are a designer, the design of a hotel isnâ€™t the most important thing. What matters is making guests feel like they are at home â€“ that, and functionality.
a microscopic water creature called a radiolarian (left). The more you look at nature, the more you realise how perfect it is. Need a new pattern? Get out the microscope. Want a great green? Look at some leaves.
Nowhere do you get to experience colour in quite the same way as you do in India â€“ except, perhaps, in Oz. The light enriches that deep blue of the skies and reflects on the sea, making you look at things in different ways. In Oz, the light brings out the beauty of the landscapes; in India, it brings out the beauty of the people: their saris, their food, their spices.
BEYOND EXPECTATION If you wanted everything you already had at home, you wouldn’t have traveled halfway around the globe.
Legendary tea service that reflects your personal tastes and our local flavors, one of the many reasons why.
a legacy of luxury. now at over 30 of the world’s finest hotels & resorts. africa the americas asia europe the middle east ©2010–2013 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its afliates.
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MR & MRS MORGAN
She appreciates art, spas and salads; he obsesses about football, Twitter and carbs. Is there anything they agree about at The Carlyle?
ANDREW CROWLEY; DAN GOLDSMITH/SCOPFEATURES
ook up as much as you can,â€? one New Yorker once urged me, â€œbut for Godâ€™s sake, donâ€™t ever look down.â€? Clearly this guy has never seen the view from the Empire Suite at The Carlyle hotel. From the lofty conďŹ nes of the 2,600sqft duplex â€“ occupying half of the 28th and 29th ďŹ‚oors of the recently renovated art-deco hotel â€“ Iâ€™m rather enjoying looking down. Iâ€™m high up enough to be spared sightings of the cityâ€™s miniature schnauzer-sized rats, but the afďŹ‚uent inhabitants of Manhattanâ€™s gold coast remain just visible, pleasing pinpricks beneath me. There are penthouses overlooking Central Park that I never imagined existed, castles on rooftops and, above Madison Avenue, two people are exchanging their wedding vows 50 ďŹ‚oors high in the sky. â€œIsnâ€™t that the most romantic thing youâ€™ve ever seen?â€? I sigh from behind the antique telescope provided in the ďŹ rst of our two sitting rooms. My husband grunts. I know that grunt. Itâ€™s the grunt of a man checking out technological artillery. The grunt of a man staring at one of our nine (yes, nine) ďŹ‚at-screen TVs, with a remote control in each hand. I throw him an accusatory look. â€œIt is romantic,â€? he assures me, ďŹ‚icking through the sports channels. I spot iridescent black beads at the corners of his mouth, blini crumbs on the art-deco coffee table and what I suspect is a half-ďŹ nished glass of our complimentary champagne. â€œDid you start the Beluga and vintage Dom without me?â€? He knows distraction tactics are the only resort after a faux pas of this magnitude. â€œDid you check out the Cubist paintings upstairs?â€? he stammers. â€œAnd donâ€™t forget weâ€™ve got our spa treatments laterâ€Śâ€? My husband doesnâ€™t care about either of these things, but he caught me admiring the art earlier and he knows I canâ€™t wait to be turned into a Park Lane Princess by some dulcet-toned aesthetician. A 90-minute Sisley intense-hydration facial with Antonina Dutu, the hotelâ€™s lead therapist, leaves me feeling just that. Iâ€™ve got their expensive-looking skin ($325 worth), the kind where the pores themselves appear to have been sieved out. Iâ€™ve developed their attitude, too. I want to go and bark at shop assistants on Fifth, complain about the size of the olives in my dirty martini down at the legendary Belemans Bar and move a salad around my plate at the new Upper East Side hotspot Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto. Of course the salad was never going to happen â€“ not with the husbandâ€™s carbicidal tendencies. Three hours, two tasting menus and a Tums tablet later, I am lying on my 2,000-threadcount Frette sheets thinking how worrying it is that, after the initial kick, extreme luxury just feels right. It seems natural, and so right, for there to be a box of LadurĂŠe macaroons on my bedside table, a monogrammed pillow beneath my head and an extensive breakfast menu ticked and hanging on our front door. But my husbandâ€™s freakishly smooth skin? I wonâ€™t tell him, but that feels wrong on pretty much every level.
A â€œWatching my daughter munching on her first caviar blini in her bespoke Elise robe made me laugh out loudâ€? Piers
Celia Walden and Piers Morgan stayed at The Carlyle, New York (001 212 744 1600, rosewoodhotels.com). The Empire Suite costs from $15,000 (about ÂŁ9,800) per night.
s someone who once spent two years living at the Beverly Wilshire in Los Angeles, I consider myself something of a â€œdetails manâ€? when it comes to hotels. As with cars, women and houses, they need to tick all the right boxes to have any chance of longevity. (I actually used that phrase when announcing to friends, in front of Celia, two days after our first date, that I was going to marry her. She called it â€œthe most repugnant phrase Iâ€™ve ever heardâ€? but walked down the aisle four years later.) Give me a spacious, clean, quiet suite with super-fast service and working gadgets and Iâ€™m happy. Substitute cramped surroundings, dirt, delays on the breakfast order (when Celiaâ€™s early-morning sugar levels are already low), no internet signal or, God forbid, a broken TV remote and I quickly resemble Michael Douglas in Falling Down. The Carlyleâ€™s absurdly luxurious three-bedroom Empire Suite ticked just about every box imaginable. Watching my 15-month-old daughter munching gluttonously on her ďŹ rst (complimentary) caviar blini, while wearing her bespoke robe embroidered with â€œELISEâ€? (mine had my Twitter address @piersmorgan â€“ now thatâ€™s what I call detailâ€Ś) made me laugh out loud. As did the motorised loo seats that both warmed and rose at the ďŹ‚ick of a switch. The nine TVs, Apple computer and giant telescope were all entertaining diversions from my wifeâ€™s pseudo-Brian Sewell impression as she studied the impressive art and dementedly recited the spa menu. Ah, yes, the spa. Iâ€™ll confess, I hate the damn things. I see no real joy in sitting for 90 minutes, listening to Belgian airport music, while someone cracks my scapulas. But I subjected myself to a hammam. It didnâ€™t hurt, and I whiled away the time silently choosing my all-time-great left-footed Arsenal team, so not entirely squandered. â€œYour skin will feel amazing,â€? said my therapist. Like I caredâ€Ś For dinner, we ventured to Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto, a few blocks away, on the recommendation of actor Josh Charles from The Good Wife. â€œBest food in New York,â€? he ventured, â€œand best-kept secret.â€? Celia tried to order a salad, but I was having none of it. Instead I ordered us baked oysters, octopus, bresaola, rigatone and eggplant, roasted scallops, chef/owner Cesare Casellaâ€™s signature pork chops, beef tenderloin, and a variety of exquisitely cooked mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, Tuscan fries and beans, followed by a Limoncello dessert and Italian cheeses. Itâ€™s a fabulous menu. Trust me, I ate it all. Later, in bed, Celia murmured: â€œMy God, your skin feels extraordinaryâ€Śâ€? I still didnâ€™t care. (You think Clark Gable ever cared about his skin?) But I did care about the pillows, which were â€“ unlike the sumptuous bed itself â€“ hard and uncomfortable. A ďŹ rm non-box-ticking offence in my book. However, as Salvador Dali said: â€œHave no fear of perfection; youâ€™ll never reach it.â€? The Carlyle tries very hard.
Gwyneth Paltrow, the creative director of Goop, takes Ultratravel on a tour of her favourite Los Angeles haunts following the launch of her new city guides app
Open house Shutters on the Beach, Gwyneth Paltrowâ€™s favourite hotel in Los Angeles
Road to happiness Santa Monica, the district where Gwyneth grew up
was born in Los Angeles and my early childhood is imprinted in my brain: the memory of palm trees and the cityâ€™s speciďŹ c light, harsh yet diffused at once â€“ which I know doesnâ€™t make sense. I remember my dad [the late director Bruce Paltrow] driving me around to meetings when he was trying to get his career going. To me LA is all about being outside. I have great memories of being little in California. Our house in Santa Monica had a pool, a tree house and pomegranate trees in the garden. Whenever Iâ€™m in the city I feel my brain works less hard. Iâ€™m not noticing everything everywhere because itâ€™s all so familiar, whereas in London Iâ€™m constantly aware of everything â€“ such as the blue plaques â€“ because itâ€™s still so foreign to me, even though Iâ€™ve lived there for 10 years. Los Angeles has the quality of home. I ďŹ nd it deeply tranquil. Itâ€™s my roots. But Iâ€™ve had a love-hate affair with the city over the years. It was fantastic when I was a child, but it wasnâ€™t good for me in my twenties when I was dating and trying to make it as an actress. I felt lonely there. Itâ€™s a difďŹ cult city to discover yourself, because it is so spread out that you never quite know where you are supposed to be. But now, having a job and a family, it is fantastic. My idea for the Goop city guides app, which covers not just LA but New York and London too, came about because Iâ€™ve always been the person my friends call to ďŹ nd out where they should go in a city â€“ for anything, right down to a good bikini wax. Because Iâ€™m so curious, wherever I travel Iâ€™m always pounding the pavement, asking locals a million questions. In fact, I originally started Goop (goop.com), my website, as a database for my friends. Itâ€™s such a big part of who I am and the app came out of that. Thereâ€™s so much information out there that itâ€™s nice to have someone whose taste you trust. I always ďŹ nd that the hotel concierge in a particular city will recommend a restaurant that they say is great and in fact itâ€™s terrible, so you waste your money. The recommendations on my app come directly from me, so they have to be good. Youâ€™ll ďŹ nd out about the best restaurants that really are tried and tested, and places you wouldnâ€™t necessarily ďŹ nd on your own, but which a local would know. We designed the city guides app to be like a bookshelf, and I am effectively a curator sharing my experiences with you. Los Angeles isnâ€™t considered one of the worldâ€™s great cities, but I think itâ€™s like a best-kept secret. If you know where to go, a holiday in LA can be a very cool experience. Here are some of my personal picks from the app.
LOS ANGELES HAS THE QUALITY OF HOME. I FIND IT DEEPLY TRANQUIL. BUT Iâ€™VE HAD A LOVE-HATE AFFAIR WITH THE CITY
MY JET LAG CURE As soon as I arrive in LA after a long ďŹ‚ight, I head to the Be Hive of Healing (behiveofhealing.com), a holistic healing centre in Santa Monica, to see Dr Habib Sadeghi, the founder. He gives me an IV [intravenous therapy] full of vitamins, which is incredible. The lymphatic massage treatment helps with jet lag, too: they wrap you in a blanket and you sweat out impurities. Dr Sadeghi has also changed my life in terms of allergy testing and food.
MY BIG BREAKFAST I usually make breakfast for the family at the weekend, but when I do go out, one of my favourite places is Halâ€™s Bar & Grill (halsbarand grill.com) on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice. Its eggs Benedict is delicious, and it also has nightly jazz. The Hotel Bel-Air (hotelbelair.com) has a really good brunch; you sit outside, which is lovely. Huckleberry (huckleberrycafe.com) in Santa Monica is fantastic for breakfast, especially on Sundays. But for the best coffee and mufďŹ ns, go to Caffe Luxxe (caffeluxxe.com). I also love Peetâ€™s coffee (peets.com), which is a West Coast thing.
A POST-BREAKFAST WORKOUT If you want to work out after breakfast, thereâ€™s a lot of yoga in LA. I like YogaWorks (yogaworks.com) on Montana Avenue in Santa Monica. There are other branches throughout the city. People are obsessed with Maha Yoga (mahayoga.com), in Brentwood, where they blast rock music as you exercise. In California, I like to take advantage of the outdoors. You can run up and down the Santa Monica Steps, on a steep hillside close to the beach. Or you can hike in the Santa Monica Mountains, which I love. I walk for miles, admiring Gwyneth on Goop â€?We designed the app to be
the views â€“ you donâ€™t feel as though you are in LA.
like a bookshelf, and I am effectively a curatorâ€?
Closer to the ocean is the Will Rogers State
FOR ROMANTIC DINNER WITH CHRIS, WE KEEP IT CASUAL AT GIORGIOâ€™S. ITS CORN RAVIOLI WITH TRUFFLE SAUCE IS BEYOND CRAZY
Historic Park, off Sunset Boulevard, which is beautiful. Friends of mine who live inland, on the East Side of LA, hike in Runyon Canyon Park, which they love, because they can take their dogs. Our dog hasnâ€™t made it to LA yet. For an indoor workout, I go to the new studio of Tracy Anderson (tracyandersonmethod.com), in Brentwood, of which I am a part-owner. Her method is miraculous. She has changed my body and my life. She has a variety of cardio and â€œband cardioâ€? classes [working with resistance bands that hang from the ceiling]. Thereâ€™s also a blow-dry bar in the studio if you want to get your hair done quickly. LA has a lot of blow-dry bars.
A DOSE OF RETAIL THERAPY Thereâ€™s great shopping all over LA. For beautiful artisan pottery that makes a great gift, I love Heath Ceramics (heathceramics.com). Just One Eye (justoneeye.com) has one-of-a-kind clothing, art and jewellery. A great thing to do on Saturday morning is go to a farmersâ€™ market. If youâ€™re not from a warm climate, you will ďŹ nd the abundance
Fresh LA A gallery at MOCA; Will Rogers State Historic Park; Nantucket scallops at Providence; Abbot Kinney Boulevard
of fruit and vegetables astonishing. Itâ€™s such fun just to walk along the stalls and see the
a classic LA thing to do. For dessert, Sweet Rose
border of LA and Ventura counties. Itâ€™s a big surf
colours and all the produce â€“ the huge yellow
Creamery has superb ice cream.
spot, beautiful and off the beaten track.
sunďŹ‚owers and the bright, sweet California
One other place I go whenever I am in Los
strawberries. They are like sugar.
ABSORB SOME CULTURE
Angeles is Sushi Park, at 8539 West Sunset
EATING OUT, WITH THE CHILDRENâ€Ś
Boulevard, for Japanese food. Itâ€™s not fancy, but itâ€™s
We love The Ivy At The Shore (theivy
amazing. I just eat whatever they serve me.
restaurants.com), which has delicious pizzas and
The idea that LA isnâ€™t cultural is untrue; the culture
guacamole with hot home-made tortillas. It has
just comes in a different package. If youâ€™re looking
MY KIND OF NEIGHBOURHOOD
really child-friendly food as well as good grown-up
for 400-year-old buildings, obviously itâ€™s not the
If you want to get a real sense of LA, stroll along
choices: I always have crab cakes and onion rings.
place to go. LA is not about stepping back in time;
Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice. You can
itâ€™s about â€œWhere are we now?â€? Its real strengths
park and walk and feel like you are steeped in
are contemporary art, architecture and food. You
a neighbourhood and a culture. The food is
I love Providence (providencela.com), which is
canâ€™t go wrong with a weekend visit to MOCA
wonderful, the clothes shops are amazing and
right by Paramount Studios and has incredible
(moca.org), the Museum of Contemporary Art,
unusual, itâ€™s alive and itâ€™s not touristy. Thereâ€™s lots
seafood. We eat in a quiet room and the food
which is current and has a good vibe, great
of really interesting stuff. I love the pizzas at
is delicious: American with a French inďŹ‚uence.
exhibitions and a cool kidsâ€™ area where they can
Gjelina (gjelina.com), one of the best restaurants
I took a friend there recently for her birthday.
do art and play. At Bergamot Station (bergamot
in LA â€“ my mouth is watering just thinking about
For a romantic dinner with Chris [Martin, her
station.com), in an old railway station, you can
them â€“ and thereâ€™s a great bar called The Other
husband] we keep it casual, so the setting doesnâ€™t
explore a variety of contemporary art galleries.
Room (theotheroom.com). Heist (shopheist.com)
have to be romantic. We love Giorgioâ€™s,
is a cool clothing store with a chilled Venice vibe.
Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi (giorgiobaldi.us),
MY LUNCHTIME HAUNTS
The other neighbourhood I like is Silver Lake:
which has been there since I was little and
Some people like to go to The Ivy, order its
itâ€™s the Shoreditch of Los Angeles, where the cool
has simple dishes made with high-quality
famous chopped salad and watch the celebrities.
kids hang out and there are plenty of hip shops
ingredients. Its corn ravioli with trufďŹ‚e sauce is
I prefer a turkey burger at Ammo (ammocafe.
and cafĂŠs. I love a little place there called Forage
beyond crazy; I could eat platefuls of it. Oh
com) in Hollywood. I also love Bouchon
(foragela.com), which is really nice and unusual.
my God, it is so good. Yes, I eat pasta all the
(bouchonbistro.com), in Beverly Hills, where I have
People bring in home-grown vegetables and
time â€“ but I work out all the time too!
oysters and French fries, or chicken.
trade them for meals, and they serve grass-fed
With the family I go to Brentwood Country Mart (brentwoodcountrymart.com), where you
burgers. I like meeting friends for lunch there
MY BIG NIGHT OUT
and itâ€™s not hugely expensive.
I donâ€™t do nightlife in LA. I donâ€™t go out dancing
can also ďŹ nd great clothing and books. Frida
much, but when I do, the Chateau Marmont
TaquerĂa has delicious Mexican food, but
TAKE ME TO THE BEACH
(chateaumarmont.com) at night is fun. Thereâ€™s
everyone in my family loves Reddi Chick,
If you want to go to the beach at the weekend,
a great dinner and bar scene at the hotel.
which has been there since I was born; I used to
you have to get out of the city. I like the County
I love to hear music in LA and I always ďŹ nd
go as a child. You sit outside in the courtyard
Line Beach (beachcalifornia.com/county-line-
out whatâ€™s on at the Hollywood Bowl
eating the best rotisserie chicken and chips â€“
beach-ventura.html), which is past Malibu, on the
(hollywoodbowl.com). You sit outside and listen to the music in the beautiful amphitheatre which
GWYN E TH â€™ S TO P TI P S
is completely open to the sky. Itâ€™s such a special
ELLEN SILVERMAN; ALAMY; CORBIS; GETTY; NOĂ‰ MONTES
experience; theyâ€™ll have all kinds of concerts, from
WHERE TO STAY
like the Chateau Marmont
best hairdressers in the world.
Radiohead to a classical symphony. You make
My favourite hotel in Los Angeles
(chateaumarmont.com), left, in
Chris McMillan in Beverly Hills has
your own picnic or pick up a picnic basket from
is Shutters on the Beach
West Hollywood. Thatâ€™s where
done Jennifer Anistonâ€™s hair
somewhere like Joanâ€™s on Third (joansonthird.
music industry people stay. It is
forever. I go to Tracey
com) and bring a bottle of wine. To me, that
Santa Monica. I have a house in
kind of ramshackle and falling
Cunningham, who does my
epitomises Los Angeles culture.
LA but thatâ€™s where I love to stay â€“
apart, which is part of its charm.
colour, too. She is my girl. Her
As told to Elaine Lipworth
and where I send my friends. Itâ€™s
People who love it really love it.
place is called MĂŠche
beautiful, cosy and not too
HOW TO LOOK GOOD
modern. The beds are really
Karyn Grossman (grossman
comfortable and you have
dermatology.com) is my number
Sonya Dakar (sonyadakar.com),
a great view of the ocean.
one beauty recommendation. She
my crazy Israeli facial lady. I always
You know youâ€™re in California
did a Thermage laser treatment on
feel really good after seeing her.
when you stay there.
me that took ďŹ ve years off my face.
Sheâ€™s just magic â€“ and a full-on
Anyone who loves music will
Los Angeles has some of the
I also highly recommend
human being, a real ball-buster. To download the Goop city guides app for Los Angeles, London and New York (ÂŁ2.49), see goop.com/apps
Five years ago, the Indian Ocean idyll seemed in danger of being eclipsed by the Seychelles and the Maldives. Now, says Nicki Grihault, a swathe of new hotels and gourmet offerings is bringing visitors back to an island on the up
New heights The Dinarobin Hotel Golf & Spa (far right, main picture) has two new thatched villas on the beachfront. Top left: a kite-surfer at the One Eye surf spot on the south-west coast. Bottom left: Goan-style fish in a poppy-seed crust, on the menu at Rasoi by Vineet, the restaurant at One & Only Le Saint GĂŠran
Colonial revival The St Regis Mauritius Resort, which opened in March, is built in the style of a colonnaded mansion and has Michelin-starred Atul Kochhar among its chefs
hen I ﬁrst visited Mauritius, as a teenager, the island had just one ﬁve-star hotel, Le Saint Géran: a grand colonial classic on a private peninsula on the east coast. The eastern island playground of Île aux Cerfs was a sandbar where tortoises roamed, and the ﬁshing village of Grand Baie – now the island’s tourism hub – was surrounded by deserted white beaches, on which we would spread our picnic blanket and search for cowrie shells. To us, it was perfectly obvious why Mark Twain had declared: “You gather the idea that Mauritius was made ﬁrst and then heaven was copied.” It was heaven. Nearly 40 years after Le Saint Géran opened, much has changed. Mauritius now boasts the biggest choice of luxury accommodation of any island worldwide – quite a feat for a place the size of Surrey. Against a backdrop of sugar cane, ebony forests and velvety volcanic peaks, dozens of stylish hotels, resorts and, increasingly, villas line the miles of white-sand beaches. Top-notch spas, championship golf courses and gourmet restaurants compete for guests with lures of helicopter transfers, private plunge pools and 24-hour butler service. In the past ﬁve years, many former fans of Mauritius have been tempted away by other destinations – the Maldives with their overwater suites and underwater restaurants; the Seychelles with their private villas; the newly peaceful Sri Lanka – but they have started to
return. Why? Not only is the island extremely good value, but it offers warm weather year-round, beautiful beaches, clear seas and genuinely friendly people providing impeccable service. Today, Mauritius has more than 120 hotels, many of them new and some recently refurbished. The hottest of the island’s new beach hotels is Starwood’s St Regis Mauritius Resort, on the exclusive Le Morne peninsula on the south-west coast. At its ofﬁcial launch in March, champagne ﬂowed freely and ﬁreworks exploded in the bay to the strains of a live orchestra. It was a party as grand as any thrown by a sugar baron. But Starwood is not the only hotel group to have raised its game. During the St Regis’s three-year construction – costing $185 million (£120 million) – many other hotels bustled with builders, constructing new suites and villas and sprucing up old rooms. Others introduced facilities ranging from a cookery school and a junior golf academy to a prestigious kite-surﬁng centre. Beachcomber, the island’s leading hotel group, was the ﬁrst to resurrect an established property – the Trou aux Biches Resort&Spa, rebuilt, at a cost of £60 million, to create a contemporary ﬁve-star, all-suite hotel on one of the best sheltered beaches in the north-west. Sun Resorts then replaced its garish Coco Beach, on the east coast, with Long Beach – an ultra-modern hotel with cool, Californian-style interiors and activities including tennis, Laser sailing and wall-climbing. Relative newcomers among the adult-only hotels include Angsana Balaclava Mauritius, a thatched ﬁve-star, suite-only
GETTING THERE Two airlines fly non-stop to Mauritius from Britain: Air Mauritius (020 7434 4375, airmauritius.com) and British Airways (0844 493 0787, ba.com), both from London Heathrow. The best non-direct service is with Emirates (0844 800 2777, emirates.com), via Dubai, from London Heathrow and Gatwick. Return economy fares to Mauritius on direct flights cost from approximately £715 per person. Operators specialising in the island include Luxury Holidays Direct (020 8774 7299, luxuryholidaysdirect. com), Kuoni (01306 747008, kuoni. co.uk), Elegant Resorts (01244 897881, elegantresorts.co.uk), Beachcomber Tours (01483 445 621, beachcombertours.co.uk), and Elite Vacations (01707 371000, elitevacations.com)
THE CUISINE IS A FUSION OF INDIAN, FRENCH, CREOLE AND CHINESE LCKI8KI8M<C
property in Turtle Bay, and the smaller Baystone Boutique Hotel&Spa in Grand Baie, with its sexy rooftop pool. A third, the Paradise Cove Hotel&Spa, will reopen this October on the north coast, after a light refurbishment. The island’s activities and food have been upgraded, too. At the newly rebranded LUX* Resorts hotels, including Le Morne and Belle Mare, innovations range from pop-up bars and all-day ice-cream carts to cinema on the beach. The Oberoi, Mauritius, in Turtle Bay, has introduced a “Touching Senses” programme intended to connect guests with nature and culture through activities such as stargazing and lessons in Hindu mythology. At the Four Seasons Resort Mauritius at Anahita, women
Fresh looks Clockwise, from top: al fresco dining at Constance Le Prince Maurice, reopened after a facelift last September; the bar at the new Baystone Boutique Hotel & Spa; and a pool at Villas Lencia
THE HOTEL HAS A HIP NEW FLOATING BAR, A SISLEY SPA AND 12 FAMILY SUITES WITH APPLE MAC MINIS
a seawater pool with a sandy bottom and a swim-up bar and stools, plus a new culinary experience in which guests learn about ayurvedic influences in local cooking (Garden Suite from £408, half-board; 00230 204 1888, angsana.com/en/balaclava). Long Beach Since it opened in 2011, with Californianstyle sea-facing rooms overlooking a wide
beach, this playful village-style resort has been popular with families. Its kids club offers dozens of activities and its family rooms have an annexe kitted out with Nintendo Wii games and televisions, plus sufficient beds for up to three children (doubles from £286, half-board; 00230 401 1919, longbeachmauritius.com). Baystone Boutique Hotel & Spa
WHAT’S NEW IN MAURITIUS
The New York-based architect and designer Albert Angel created this new, avant-garde five-star hotel near Grand Baie, with wave-shaped walls and sofas
THE ISLAND AT A GLANCE
Lakaz Chamarel Exclusive Lodge
and sky-blue lighting. Of the 13 sea-facing
The main tourism hub is in the north,
“Mauritius seems to have been sculptured
suites, the most desirable is the Sky Suite,
around Grand Baie, which has the highest
and painted by a tasteful giant”, wrote
with its spacious outdoor living area and
concentration of hotels, beaches and
Malcolm de Chazal, the Mauritian poet.
exclusive access to the hotel’s rooftop
entertainment. The east coast is the most
Perhaps he was thinking of the lush green
pool. Food is a key attraction at the hotel,
familiar, with its celebrated hotels and
hills of Chamarel, his family estate, and the
which has three à-la-carte restaurants. The
beautiful white sand beaches, while the
setting for this daringly different boutique
2,100sq ft Thal’ion spa boasts the island’s
west coast, which has flatter, calmer
eco-lodge in 12 acres of flower-filled
first floatation tank (£295 for a suite,
waters, is favoured by families. The “green”
gardens, a 15-minute drive from Le Morne
half-board; 00230 209 1900, baystone.mu).
south is wilder, but arguably more
beach. As well as great food, the lodge has
interesting, with a clutch of hotels in the
a tiny spa offering excellent massages –
THE LATEST VILLAS
south-west, close to pounding surf and
and the best view over Tamarin Bay, from
Villa living has arrived on Mauritius, with
dramatic cliffs. All prices below are for two
the new Piton Canot Suite (from £323 for
several new upmarket resorts offering
people sharing, unless otherwise stated.
the suite; doubles from £156, half-board;
plush pool homes for those who want both
00230 483 5240, lakazchamarel.com).
privacy and the services of a chef, butler
THE HOTTEST NEW HOTELS
Trou aux Biches Resort & Spa
and housekeeper. Heritage the Villas,
St Regis Mauritius Resort
Recently reopened after a two-year rebuild
built on a hill in the green south-west,
New York meets the tropics at this
costing £60 million, this all-suite-and-pool-
offers guests access to 11 restaurants, free
colonnaded colonial mansion on a white
villa hotel is on a sheltered, sandy beach
green fees at its award-winning golf course
sand beach on the Le Morne Peninsula.
on the north-west coast. There is water
and the island’s only Beach Club (£395 per
All 172 residences and suites have sea
everywhere – in waterfalls, fountains and
night, b&b, sleeping four; 00230 266 9777,
views, but the Beachfront Grand Suites,
channels, as well as 106 pools. The suites
heritageresorts.mu). At LUX* Belle Mare,
with huge terraces overlooking the One
are huge; the 27 two- and three-bedroom
12 villas have been redesigned by Kelly
Eye kite-surfing hotspot, are its most
villas have decent-sized pools; and there
Hoppen, with fresh clean colours, sunken
covetable. The Simply India restaurant,
are six restaurants, from Italian and casual
baths and gardens with private pools (£595
presided over by the Michelin-starred chef
European to Thai. A state-of-the-art kids
per night, sleeping three; 00230 402 2000,
Atul Kochhar, is worth a trip across the
club and facilities for teenagers make this
luxresorts.com). Dinarobin Hotel
island (doubles from £311, b&b; 00230 403
a family-friendly choice, as do the villas
Golf & Spa has two new four-bedroom,
with indoor/outdoor living spaces,
thatched beachfront villas (£1,582 per
Constance Le Prince Maurice
barbecue areas and swimming pools
night, b&b, sleeping eight; 00230 401 4900,
This small, secluded all-suite hotel on the
(junior suite from £255, half-board; 00230
dinarobin-hotel.com) and, this autumn,
east coast, reopened after a facelift last
204 6565, trouauxbiches-resort.com).
St Regis will open its four-bedroom villa
September, has a hip new floating bar with
Angsana Balaclava Mauritius
overlooking the One Eye surf spot (00230
live music and DJs, a Sisley spa and 12 new
The island’s newest five-star, all-suite
403 9000, stregis.com/mauritius).
family suites, complete with Apple Mac
boutique hideaway is in Turtle Bay, on the
Standalone villas with five-star service
Minis, as well as a wine cellar and heated
north-west coast – and it is for adults only.
include Villas Lencia, through Elegant
lap-pool. Fitness guru Isabelle Lamant
Of the accommodation choices, the most
Resorts (£715 per night, sleeping six; 00
offers yoga, zumba, personal training
plush are the 600sq ft Beachfront Suites,
230 263 0801, villaslencia.com), and
and a get-fit bootcamp (junior suites
with an infinity pool and direct access to
Sankhara Villas, through the Coco
from £341, b&b; 00230 402 3636,
the beach, and the four-bedroom Imperial
Collection (£1,010 per night, sleeping six;
villa, with butler service. Highlights include
00230 410 5268, sankhara-villas.com).
have long enjoyed such indulgent treatments as a 24-carat gold facial, while men at the St Regis Mauritius Resort can now check in at the island’s only male grooming salon. Hotel spas have become family-friendly, with Haute Beauté facials for teenagers among the offerings at The Residence Mauritius. On the food front, no other cuisine in the Indian Ocean can match that of Mauritius – a fusion of Indian, French, Creole and Chinese inﬂuences. Top chefs who have connections with restaurants on the island include Vineet Bhatia at the One&Only Le Saint Géran, Atul Kochhar at the St Regis Mauritius Resort, and Jean-Jacques Uge at Anahita The Resort. Meanwhile, the Constance Belle Mare Plage hotel runs a culinary festival each year and, this spring, Tom Aikens, holder of two-Michelin stars, gave culinary masterclasses at Beachcomber’s Royal Palm. Other hotels give guests the opportunity to learn about local culinary traditions. At Shanti Maurice, they can dine with an elderly grande dame in her village home, while at Maradiva Villas Resort&Spa, the 2012 Masterchef winner Shelina Permalloo runs a cookery school twice a year, with an emphasis on local dishes, and guests can visit an estate supplying free-range boar and venison. Mauritius has long been the top spot in the Indian Ocean for weddings, and is one of the top ﬁve in the world. In 2012, it was voted the world’s best honeymoon destination in the World Travel Awards, its appeal boosted by the growing number of hotels and resorts with a romantic ambience. For thrill-seekers, attractions include the longest zip-line ride in the Indian Ocean, hiking to the top of Le Morne Brabant mountain and tandem skydiving, while the more sedate can visit colonial mansions, botanic gardens and local markets. Last year, visitors to Mauritius reached the million mark for the ﬁrst time – 10 times the number four decades ago, when the pioneering Le Saint Géran opened. Here is Ultratravel’s guide to the best new places to stay.
A holiday on Guernsey is all about simple pleasures. Like seaside strolls and cliff-top walks. Like good food made with local produce. Like knowing that you don’t have to rush because everything you want is close at hand. There are castles and forts and one of the prettiest harbour towns in Europe. And there’s the excitement that comes with being somewhere different coupled with the reassurance that you’re not far from home.
Discover holidays as they used to be. Order your free Guernsey brochure today. Freephone 0800 028 5353 quoting ref: 5291/3 or go to visitguernsey.com
Getting to Guernsey is easy. Flights take as little as 30 minutes and ferries around 3 hours. FLY FROM
Birmingham, Bristol, East Midlands, Exeter, Gatwick, Glasgow*, Manchester, Norwich*, Southampton and Stansted. *Weekly service in peak season only.
Poole, Weymouth* and Portsmouth. *From mid-July.
Guernsey Herm Sark
The Worldâ€™s Most LUXURIOUS HOTEL
Burj Al Arab is the pinnacle of luxury, from its exquisite exterior to the genius of colour within. Experience superlative levels of service, personal butler care and passionate attention to detail in the most luxurious surroundings in the world.
For inquiries and reservations please contact: Tel: +971 4 301 7400 Email: BAAreservations@jumeirah.com
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In our annual awards, we celebrate the very best of luxury travel as identiďŹ ed by our readers, from the destinations they choose to the people who take them there. Overleaf, we announce the winners and, on page 45, analyse the results
Best golf resort in the world THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL, SCOTLAND Runners-up La Manga Club, Spain Pebble Beach Resorts, United States St Andrews, Scotland Turnberry Resort, Scotland
Best hotel in the Americas WALDORF ASTORIA NEW YORK Runners-up Bellagio Las Vegas The Beverly Hills Hotel The Carlyle, New York Four Seasons Hotel New York
Best luxury hotel chain FOUR SEASONS Runners-up Mandarin Oriental One&Only Shangri-La Waldorf Astoria
Best city in the world NEW YORK Runners-up Barcelona Melbourne Paris Sydney
Best hotel in Europe FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GEORGE V, PARIS Runners-up Claridgeâ€™s, London The Dorchester, London The Savoy, London Ritz Paris
Best short-haul airline BRITISH AIRWAYS Runners-up easyJet Lufthansa Monarch Swiss
Best cabin crew SINGAPORE AIRLINES Runners-up British Airways Emirates Etihad Airways Virgin Atlantic
Best large luxury tour operator KUONI Runners-up Abercrombie&Kent Cox&Kings Hayes&Jarvis Trailfinders
Best luxury cruise line CUNARD Runners-up Crystal Cruises P&OCruises Seabourn Silversea Cruises
A WORLD OF EXCELLENCE Readers voted across 20 categories, from best hotel, airline and airport to favourite city and country. Each category produced a winner and four runners-up â€“ the Ultratravel 100, displayed on our celebratory map LCKI8KI8M<C
Best river cruise line VIKING RIVER CRUISES Runners-up Ama Waterways Avalon Waterways Scenic Tours Uniworld
Best airline lounge VIRGIN ATLANTIC CLUBHOUSE, HEATHROW TERMINAL 3 Runners-up British Airways, Heathrow Terminal 5 Emirates, Dubai Qatar Airways, Doha Singapore Airlines, Changi
Best hotel in the Middle East BURJ AL ARAB, DUBAI Runners-up One&Only Royal Mirage, Dubai Park Hyatt Dubai Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri, Abu Dhabi Shangri-Laâ€™s Barr Al Jissah Resort&Spa, Muscat
Best hotel in Asia RAFFLES SINGAPORE Runners-up Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong The Peninsula, Hong Kong The Upper House, Hong Kong
Best airport in the world CHANGI, SINGAPORE Runners-up Schiphol, Amsterdam Dubai International London Heathrow Terminal 5 Hong Kong International
Best hotel in the world BURJ AL ARAB, DUBAI Runners-up Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris Le Touessrok, Mauritius Raffles Singapore The Savoy, London
Best small luxury tour operator ELEGANT RESORTS Runners-up Audley Travel Nomadic Thoughts Scott Dunn Simpson Travel
Best hotel in Africa and the Indian Ocean LE TOUESSROK, MAURITIUS Runners-up Banyan Tree Seychelles Cape Grace, Cape Town The Oberoi, Mauritius One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives
Best long-haul airline VIRGIN ATLANTIC Runners-up British Airways Emirates Qantas Singapore Airlines
Best country in the world AUSTRALIA Runners-up Italy New Zealand South Africa United States
Best hotel in Australasia SHANGRI-LA HOTEL, SYDNEY Runners-up Emirates Wolgan Valley Resort&Spa, New South Wales Qualia, Great Barrier Reef The Langham, Sydney The Langham, Melbourne
In association with
Unfasten your seat belt The bar in the redesigned Upper Class cabin of Virgin Atlantic, winner of the best long-haul airline and best airport lounge categories
A toast to our winners
onsistency is the hallmark of any credible awards – even if it might not make for
North American hotels, three are in the Big Apple). Australia takes top honours again as
sexy headlines. In a world as competitive – and emotive – as travel, earning the
favourite country, with the Lions Tour and the Ashes tests set to make this a memorable
trust of discerning holidaymakers is vital. Once gained, the great names in
year for the travelling sports fan. Let’s just hope the ULTRA is the only thing Australia wins.
travel are loath to let this slip as they upgrade, reinvent, innovate and restore to
ensure that they are on the Ultratravel 100 list year after year. Among those that retain their respective regional hotel awards are the Waldorf Astoria New York, Rafﬂes Singapore, Le Touessrok in Mauritius and the Shangri-La Hotel in Sydney. My recent stay in the penthouse suite of the Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris (a tough
It is no surprise that, in the aviation categories, Singapore Airlines takes pride of place for its cabin crew and British Airways for its short-haul services, while Changi, Singapore, is voted best airport. Less expected is the double triumph of Virgin Atlantic, awarded best long-haul airline and best airport lounge (for the Clubhouse in Heathrow’s Terminal 3). It’s an impressive feat given the small size of the airline – but Virgin Atlantic has
assignment I know, but someone had to do it, see page 69), conﬁrmed to me why this hotel
always punched above its weight, whether by employing Vivenne Westwood to design its
continues to dine at the head of Europe’s top table, while Four Seasons – a byword for
cabin-crew uniforms, challenging BA with the launch of its domestic carrier Little Red,
consistent service – has deservedly kept the title of best hotel chain. However, it is the
or taking in-ﬂight ﬂirting to a new level on Virgin America by allowing passengers to send
Burj Al Arab in Dubai that takes the highest hotel honour – for best hotel in the world,
a drink and a text to others, using their seat-back technology. Other innovations include
a brand-new category this year. The award is testament to Jumeirah’s innovation and
a redesign of its Upper Class cabin (with a new futuristic bar), “gate to gate” entertainment
commitment to great service, not to say its healthy marketing budget. How many more
(so passengers don’t miss the climax of a ﬁlm) and increased hand-luggage limits.
ways can there be of using its helipad in a cover shoot (see The next big thing, page 14)? Both Kuoni and Elegant Resorts, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, are
The same fun and sassiness can still be found in the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse seven years after it opened – martinis at the cocktail bar, manicures at the Cowshed
again worthy winners in the tour operator categories; Viking and Cunard still rule the rivers
spa, multiscreen sports-viewing in the Den and reﬁned plane-spotting in the Grey
and seas; and Gleneagles remains our readers’ favourite golf resort, a year before the
Goose Loft bar. If only they could ﬁnd a chairman who understood the value of PR.
Ryder Cup party comes to town. New York is voted favourite city (and, of the ﬁve preferred
Charles Starmer-Smith, editor, Ultratravel
U LT R A S A I L
your guide to heaven on water
Drawbridge to heaven Panthalassa moored in Caribbean waters, with its hydraulic teak swimdeck lowered for watersports Photographs by ADAM PARKER Styling by ARABELLA BOYCE
The seas are now plied by 850 superyachts over 164ft in length â€“ and they offer every conceivable entertainment, from spas and cinemas to submarines. Nigel Tisdall steps aboard Panthalassa to discover a moneyed world that is truly super
SUPER MODELS LCKI8KI8M<C
What is it that makes Silversea the benchmark of luxury cruising? The cuisines by Relais & Châteaux? The all-inclusive luxury? The sumptuous suites with Ferragamo soaps... the butler who anticipates your every need? Or perhaps it is Silversea’s European heritage that so appeals to well-travelled, international guests. Aboard our ships you can explore secluded harbours less touched by time and tourists. Insider access in the world’s great cities. Bespoke tours so that you can roam where you please. Hardly what you would expect on an ordinary cruise. But then this is small-ship cruising. And we are Silversea.
For more information or to book, please call Silversea on 0844 251 0841, visit www.silversea.com or contact your travel agent.
U LT R A S A I L
n the mosaics mosa aics adorning their lavish Mediterranean villas, the Romans included scenes of cherubs riding gleefully on the backs of dolphins. Itâ€™s a delightful fantasy, and yet, nearly 2,000 years later, here I am doing the next best thing â€“ charging through the oh-so-blue waters of the Caribbean on the back of a Seabob Cayago F7. Otherwise known as an underwater scooter, the silent, battery-powered bullet looks a bit like a turbo-charged dust-buster but can travel at 12 knots and dive to 130ft. Riding one is fun, especially off the deserted white-sand beaches of Anguilla â€“ but, at that speed, itâ€™s a good idea to secure your trunks or bikini bottom tightly. It certainly helps that my electro-dolphin, which weighs 64kg (about 10 stone) but somehow still ďŹ‚oats, has been lowered into the sea from a hydraulic, teak-decked swim platform that descends like a divine drawbridge from the stern of a superyacht. An athletic deckhand in a liveried rash vest accompanies me towards the shore; cold towels and a freshwater shower await my return. So far, so yes please â€“ for this is just one of many â€œtoysâ€? (as they are unashamedly known) available when you charter a superyacht. Welcome to the truly seductive world of Panthalassa, a 56m (184ft) come-and-race-me sailing yacht, registered in London and with a British skipper. On board there are also three jet skis, three Ribs, waterskis, wakeboards, paddleboards, scuba gear and kite-surďŹ ng equipment â€“ plus all the tents, beanbag seats, pop-up bars and ďŹ‚aming torches needed to hold an impromptu party on a moonlit beach of our choice. As we all know, some superyachts go OTT on all this, with their swimming pools, cinemas and inďŹ‚atable playgrounds, not to mention mini-submarines and helipads. Panthalassa has a different agenda: true class. A Seabob costs about ÂŁ11,000 â€“ and we have six, natch. But what really puts the S in this SY (as we in-crowders call them) is that they have all been painted in a bespoke shade of DuPont technical grey that matches the colour of our hull. And that, we must agree, is darn cool. Superyachts are generally deďŹ ned as being over 35m (115ft) long and come in two types: motor-only, for posing, partying and inshore sailing; and the masts-and-sails version, for maritime heritage and thrills. About a third of charter superyachts fall into the second category â€“ for me, the only way to go as it offers the best of both worlds.
Premier crew An Australian chef, immaculately dressed deckhands and stewardesses in white polo shirts satisfy every whim on Panthalassa, shown under full sail (above)
Built in 2010 by the Italian naval architects Perini Navi, Panthalassa is designed to maximise comfort. Superyacht interiors come in countless styles, from country house to porn baron, but here you get a one-off temple of repose created by Foster+Partners with natural light streaming into the decks below thanks to a masterly use of skylights, glass walls, slimline staircases and oversized portholes. Multi-million-pound vessels like this carry a maximum of 12 passengers, as having more opens up a viperâ€™s nest of regulations and licences. Many come with an ostentatious ownerâ€™s suite, but on Panthalassa all six cabins are the same size, kitted out in a serene and contemporary whirl of Danish leather, Italian marble, French toiletries and carefully-unthrown cashmere throws. Up on the ďŹ‚ybridge, a fan-shaped array of sunbathing pads lies ready and waiting with plush towels, chilled water, nibbles and generously-stocked baskets of Lancaster sunscreen. In the evening, itâ€™s time to turn on the soft lighting as the cocktails and canapes arrive in the Caribbean warmth, and our team leader, Captain Greg Butler Davis, shows up in his smart black uniform to tell envy-inducing tales of how Panthalassa has voyaged up the Bosphorus to the Black Sea and sailed past Stromboli at night as the volcano blazed beneath the stars.
SURPRISES RANGE FROM DELIVERING 1,000 RED ROSES TO WINCHING A BRANDNEW CAR ON BOARD
Jet set A jet ski (top), one of three on Panthalassa, is ideal for exploring the beaches of Anguilla (above). Left: the main living area of Panthalassa, designed by Foster+Partners, complete with art by Andy Warhol
colleagues, entertaining friends, loving your family and indulging yourself. Wealthy clients now expect superyacht brokers to deliver a truly spectacular experience, and have no qualms about making exceptional demands. â€œYou name it, weâ€™ve done it!â€? says Charlie Birkett, partner and group CEO of Y.CO, which has access to the largest, most exclusive superyachts in the world. â€œIt could be delivering 1,000 red roses to surprise the chartererâ€™s girlfriend, having a brand-new car winched on board as a birthday present, or organising a last-minute wedding in PortoďŹ no, with the crew handling every detail in just a few days.â€? Nor does this exclusive and highly-tailored service stop once you step ashore. â€œWe can open all sorts of secret doors,â€? says Nicholas Edmiston, chairman of Edmiston&Company, which publishes a lavish directory of the worldâ€™s 100 ďŹ nest yachts available for charter. â€œMagniďŹ cent Venetian palazzi, fabulous gardens in the south of Franceâ€Ś we know all the owners.â€? Y.CO has likewise worked with the bespoke holiday experts Based On A True Story (Boats), which specialises in â€œmagic-carpet-rideâ€? luxury experiences. Given a brief to â€œkeep the children entertainedâ€? on one superyacht holiday in the Mediterranean, it arranged for junior guests to be taken into the souks of Morocco to buy an old teapot that was then found to conceal an ancient message and password. This in turn led to a trip into the desert to meet a Tuareg nomad, triggering an elaborate seaborne treasure hunt that concluded with a piratical ďŹ esta in Majorca complete with blazing guns and ďŹ reworks. While itâ€™s feasible for a group of friends or two families to get together to charter such yachts, it is far more common for one person to treat everyone else. Where you go depends on your taste for adventure â€“ summer in the Med, winter in the Caribbean is the traditional track, with superyachts switching between the two in a glittering transhumance. â€œSome clients spend ÂŁ5 million or more on a superyacht holiday,â€? says Nicholas Edmiston, â€œso itâ€™s understandable that they want to be seen doing so.â€? That means anchoring off St Tropez in high summer rather than exploring the shores of Java, although you can still ďŹ nd out-of-the-way spots in the Med. â€œTry the west coast of Corsica,â€? Edmiston says, â€œwhich has beautiful beaches that can only be reached by sea with no one there.â€? Modern communications, together with the increasing size and comfort of yachts, make it easier to hop on and off at any point â€“ with the help of private jets and helicopters. â€œWeâ€™ve seen a rise in enquiries for furtherďŹ‚ung places such as the Belize Cayes, the GalĂĄpagos and
MODEL: ELENA JUVONEN AT PROFILE MODELS. PAGE 49: LISA MARIE FERNANDEZ SWIMSUIT, ÂŁ330 FROM NET-A-PORTER.COM; BOMBITA HEELS, ÂŁ560 BY MANOLO BLAHNIK (020 7352 8622); MATRIX SUNGLASSES BY CELINE, ÂŁ200 AT HARRODS (020 7730 1234). PAGE 51: SEE CREDIT ON CONTENTS PAGE. THIS PAGE: ASYMMETRICAL SILK SWIMSUIT BY LOUIS HEAL, PRICE ON APPLICATION (LOUISHEAL.COM); BOMBITA HEELS (AS BEFORE)
His 10-strong crew is equally decorous, predominantly British with an affable style that mixes being natural with knowing your place. Even the old-salt chief engineer wears a spotless boiler suit, while the lithe and lively stewardesses sport white polo shirts and short skirts, as if about to play tennis rather than serve up lobster salads and citron tarts prepared by our cheery Aussie chef. Judging by the cushions scattered about the decks (I count 111, then fall asleep), the orchestrator of this ÂŁ30-million nautical Neverland likes to be comfortable. Superyacht etiquette decrees that the ownerâ€™s identity is not revealed, but hereâ€™s a tip: look in the visitorsâ€™ book. Iâ€™m initially curious about the style-savvy rich-lister whose taste chimes with mine, but as the days go by it matters less. After all, few us know much about God, yet weâ€™re happy loaďŹ ng around in His fabulous creation. Owning or chartering one of these Ferraris-of-theseas is avowedly statement-making. Itâ€™s about impressing
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Antarctica,” reports Charlie Birkett. “These are usually from regular charter clients who have visited the more traditional destinations and are looking for something off the beaten track. As yacht design evolves, longer-range charters are making such destinations more accessible.” You could equally go sailing in Alaska, the Maldives or Papua New Guinea – but one thing is certain, there will be no place for mud. In the perfectionist world of superyachts, these beauty queens must look as new and shiny as the day they were launched. Immense amounts of labour and materials – costing £2.6 million a year in the case of Panthalassa – are devoted to maintaining that “straight-out-of-the-box” look. My voyage starts in the Isle de Sol Yacht Club, the newest superyacht marina on the French-Dutch Caribbean island of St Martin/St Maarten, where the painting, bufﬁng and polishing is ceaseless. Up to 40 superyachts can berth here, and their names say it all. Four Wishes. Imagine. One More Toy… izarrely, the only way in and out of this megarich powwow is through a small channel with a scruffy bridge raised only three times a day. The wind is up, so leaving without a scratch to the sides (or worse) means Captain Greg is in for an adrenalin-pumping moment. Skippering a superyacht is an impressive feat of multi-tasking, in which you don’t just sail a huge and complex machine. You also need to know everything from how to ﬁx bilge pumps and the intricacies of Croatian VAT to the best way to bag a top dinner table during the Monaco Grand Prix. We do it, just, and Greg celebrates by playing “Pinball Wizard” at full blast on the sound system. Needless to say, this isn’t any old hi-ﬁ; it’s a no-expense-spared extravaganza featuring Apple-based Savant technology that also lets users adjust everything from the blinds to the air con to the security cameras from a smartphone touchscreen. Then there’s the satellite broadband, the video-conferencing saloon, the 60in ﬂat-screen TV with a Kaleidescape system offering 500 movies on demand. You don’t get mega-rich without being a control freak. Out on the blue ocean, however, there is a delicious sense of freedom. Now where shall we go? St Barths? Saba? The BVIs? It’s up to us. The crew lower the keel, we turn our head to the wind, then up goes the mainsail on a mast that soars to 59m (190ft). But if you want to pull a rope, forget it. Everything is done from two consoles with enough buttons and switches to ﬂy to the moon. Soon we are bouncing over the waves, hitting 12 knots and leaning at a jaunty 14 degrees. The sun is out, the engines are off, the brown boobies are saying hi… Up above us, Panthalassa’s vast sails do their bends and stretches, more than 16,000sq ft of iceberg-white triangles tangoing with the warm wind. Suddenly the clichéd bubbles-and-bling image of superyachting seems ridiculous. The supreme way to enjoy a charter like this, I realise, would be to spend part of your holiday competing in a superyacht regatta. That’s when the rock-star crews come on board, and the fun really starts. The Bucket in St Barths, the Loro Piana in Sardinia, Les Voiles de St Tropez – oh yes, I’m free. Are you?
Sails of the century The finest superyachts include classics such as Christina O (above), as well as new models such as Vertigo (left) and Twizzle (below)
5 OF THE BEST SUPERYACHTS VERTIGO
The winner of 10 design awards, Vertigo
This serial award-winner combines the
This boat’s guest list gives a clue to its style:
is one of the fastest superyachts on the
world’s most advanced technology with
JFK, Jackie Kennedy, Winston Churchill,
seas, capable of doing 20 knots under sail
reﬁned interiors of pale aged oak and
Frank Sinatra… Once owned by Aristotle
(faster than many motor yachts), thanks
cream. Carrying 19,000sq ft of sail on
Onassis, and named after his daughter, this
to more than 54,000sq ft of Kevlar carbon
two masts, this is a yacht built for speed
is more ship than yacht, with 18 staterooms,
sails. Unique features include a hull that
(17 knots) but also for relaxation: guests
Michelin-standard food, a Six Senses spa,
folds down to create a “beach club”,
can lounge on one of the cream sofas
a pool lined with mosaics, plus (of course)
extendable glass panels to protect against
lining its capacious aft decks, sheltered
a helipad. The two tenders are as glamorous
the elements, and urban-style interiors
by the largest sheets of triple-glazed
as the ship itself, fashioned from mahogany
designed by Christian Liaigre. On-board toys
curved glass ever made, or recline in
and ﬁnished in brass; additional toys include
and entertainment range from tenders and
the calmly decorated cabins ﬁnished in
dinghies, waveriders and windsurfers.
dinghies to a gym overlooking the water.
cashmere, soft leather and silk.
Details Sleeps 34; length 99m/325ft;
Details Sleeps 12; length 67m/220ft;
Details Sleeps 8; length 57.5m/189ft;
from £390,000 per week
from £190,000 per week (ycoyacht.com).
from £175,000 (burgessyachts.com).
HOW TO DO IT
CHARTERING A SUPERYACHT
Panthalassa (sypanthalassa.com) can be booked through Y.CO –
Owned by the Getty family, this is one of
Reﬁtted in 2011, and kitted out with more
Cost is not an issue for most superyacht
The Yacht Company (020 7584 1801, ycoyacht.com). A seven-night
the most glamorous, old-fashioned vessels
toys than most (from Laser dinghies,
clients, but prices – generally per week –
charter costs from £131,335 in the Caribbean, or £173,337 in the
available for charter. There is no sign that,
wakeboards and kiteboards to a pair
are negotiable and brokers are competitive.
Mediterranean. A regatta package, including a professional racing
during the Second World War, she sailed out
of Seabob lightweight scooters), this
Late bookings may be discounted, and
crew, starts at £167,471.
of Pearl Harbour with six anti-aircraft guns
is a yacht for active types. Food-lovers
rates tend to be better outside high season
and 110 US Navy personnel on board; today,
are catered to as well, by a chef who
(June or September in the Mediterranean,
and hilly island of St Martin/St Maarten is a popular starting point
she is all polished wood, swags, silver and
specialises in healthy cuisine. For gentler
and mid-January to late-February in the
for Caribbean yacht charters and has 13 marinas, a lively beach
art-deco detailing. By day there are two
activity, a yoga teacher is on board to give
Caribbean). Budget another third of the
scene and many ﬁne restaurants. Air France (0871 663 3777,
Yamaha WaveRunners to play on (as well as
daily lessons – and inside is a high-tech
price for costs such as food, drinks, fuel,
airfrance.co.uk) ﬂies from eight UK airports via Paris; return fares
ocean kayaks, kitesurfers, Laser dinghies,
entertainment system, with both a cinema
port fees and incidentals, and an additional
range from £645 (economy) to £2,230 (business class). Stay at the
diving gear, waterskis, and more), and at
and a karaoke box. Although extremely
10 per cent for gratuities. VAT is levied
just-refurbished La Samanna (0845 077 2222, lasamanna.com)
night more than 200,000 CDs to listen to
comfortable, the superyacht cruises at
in some countries. Superyachts can be
in St Martin, an Orient-Express hotel with 83 ocean-view rooms
and 1,000 movies to watch.
an exhilarating 12 knots, powered by
chartered through specialist brokers
and suites, plus four three- and four-bedroom villas set on cliffs
Details Sleeps 12; length
26,000sq ft of sail or a 1,200hp engine.
(see Details above). Useful websites
overlooking a long and virtually private white sand beach (a deluxe
75.3m/247ft; from £240,000 per week
Details Sleeps 12; length 51.7m/170ft;
include boatinternational.com, superyachts.
room costs from £544). Transfers from the airport take 15 minutes.
from £160,000 per week (fraseryachts.com).
com and superyachttimes.com.
Split almost equally into French and Dutch sides, the green
BARBADOS STAY AND CARIBBEAN CRUISE FROM ONLY
STAR CLIPPERS OPERATES SOME OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST AND TALLEST SAILING VESSELS These tall ships visit ports often untouched by larger cruise ships and offer passengers the activities, amenities and atmosphere of a private yacht. Imagine combining the magic of a relaxing cruise holiday with all the romance of sailing aboard a traditional tall ship, this unique combination of sailing tradition and pampered relaxation is the true essence of Star Clippers. To entertain you at certain ports, local performers are invited on board to give a real authentic feel of the places you visit, coupled with a culinary adventure conjoured up by inspired chefs will surely excite all your senses.
ANTIGUA STAY AND CARIBBEAN CRUISE FROM ONLY
prices based on 4 Dec ’13 Inside
prices based on 3 Dec ’13 Inside
WHAT’S INCLUDED: Direct Virgin Atlantic Flights & Resort Transfers 3nts 4 All Inclusive Stay in Barbados 7nts Full Board Cruise on Royal Clippers Departures Nov 13 - Apr 14 VISITING: Bridgetown (Barbados), Rodney Bay (St Lucia), Cabrits (Dominica), Roseau (Dominica), Falmouth Harbour (Antigua), Basseterre (St. Kitts), South Friar’s Beach (St. Kitts), Terre de Haut (Iles des Saintes), Fort de France (Martinque)
WHAT’S INCLUDED: Direct Virgin Atlantic Flights & Resort Transfers 4nts 5 All Inclusive Stay in Sandals Grande Antigua Resort & Spa 7nts Full Board Cruise on Star Clippers
COMPLIMENTARY AIRPORT CHAUFFEUR SERVICE
Departures Nov 13 - Mar 14 VISITING: Philipsburg (St. Maarten), Anguilla (B.V.I), Virgin Gorda (Tortola), Norman Island & Soper’s Hole (Tortola), Jost van Dyke (B.V.I), Basseterre (St. Kitts), Gustavia (St. Barts) COMPLIMENTARY AIRPORT CHAUFFEUR SERVICE
CALL OUR EXPERT PLATINUM TEAM ON 0844 644 9518 www.virginholidayscruises.co.uk/platinum
Opening Hours: Monday to Friday 9am to 9pm, Saturday 9am to 7pm & Sunday 10am to 6pm. Terms and conditions apply for full details please visit virginholidayscruises.co.uk/legal. *Lead prices are based on two passengers travelling and sharing an interior stateroom and standard hotel room where applicable and include all applicable taxes and fuel surcharges, correct at the time of print and subject to change. Prices exclude discretionary daily services charges payable onboard or in advance and auto gratuity charges payable on board. Flights are included and will depart from a London airport (unless otherwise stated). Offers are for new bookings only and can be made via your local Virgin Holidays retail store or by calling direct; offers are subject to availability and change. A non-refundable booking fee may apply, please ask at time of booking. Complimentary Chauffeur Service is for the ﬁrst 75 miles each way to and from the airport, costs will be given at the time of booking for any additional mileage. Offer is noncombinable with other discounts, promotions and savings unless stated. Virgin Holidays Cruises are ATOL (2358) protected and ABTA (J1138)/(W9716). All the ﬂight and ﬂight inclusive holidays featured are ﬁnancially protected by the ATOL scheme. When you pay you will be supplied with an ATOL Certiﬁcate. Please ask for it and check to ensure that everything you booked (ﬂights, hotel and other services) is listed on it. Please see our booking conditions for further information about ﬁnancial protection and the ATOL Certiﬁcate go to atol.org.uk/ATOLCertiﬁcate. All offers are valid for Virgin Holidays Cruises division of the Virgin Holidays Group only, for deﬁnition visit virginholidays.co.uk/ourfamily. Registered in England 1873815. Registered ofﬁce; Company Secretariat, The Ofﬁce, Manor Royal, Crawley, West Sussex RH10 9NU. Credit Card payments by VISA/Mastercard incur a 1.3% surcharge and 2.6% for AMEX. All calls charged at 5p per minute from a BT landline, calls from mobiles or other networks may vary.
DISCOVER A DIFFERENT VIEW OF THE WORLD Europe • Russia • Asia Inspiring destinations, extraordinary comfort, exceptional cuisine, unrivalled service and fascinating tours – there is no more rewarding way to see the world than on a Viking river cruise. With prices starting from just £1,095pp for an 8-day European river cruise holiday, come and discover a different view of the world with Viking.
Call 020 8780 7990 www.vikingrivercruises.co.uk Travel safe, you are fully protected Price is correct at the time of going to print. All holidays are subject to availability..
A cruise can be the conduit to unique and extraordinary experiences on land. Sue Bryant chooses 10 of the best Flights of fancy On the Kamchatka Peninsula, Russia, cruise passengers can take a helicopter ride over active volcanoes. Below: Shanghai by vintage sidecar, and hot-air ballooning above the North Pole
SHORE LEAVE U LT R A S A I L
one are the days when cruise-ship
Book it Viking River Cruises (020 8780 7995,
excursions involved clambering
vikingrivercruises.co.uk) is offering a 13-day
Fly over active volcanoes
aboard a minibus or taxi for
Waterways of the Tsars voyage between Moscow
When it comes to up-and-coming expedition
a whistlestop tour of a port city,
and St Petersburg from £2,295 per person (on
hotspots, the Kamchatka Peninsula in the
taking in all the obvious sights.
selected dates in 2014), including flights. The
Russian Far East is one to watch. This
Hermitage excursion costs £99 per person.
necklace of smoking volcanoes, rising from
Today, trips ashore are all about exclusivity, adventure and giving passengers access to an unforgettable one-off experience. Here are some examples to whet the appetite. ST PETERSBURG, RUSSIA
See the vaults of the Hermitage
the icy tundra that fringes the Pacific Ring of THE NORTH POLE
Float high above the ice cap
Fire, has caught the attention of a few cruise lines – not least the French-owned Compagnie du
Only 250 people each year can claim to have
Ponant, which is offering a two-hour helicopter
stood at the North Pole – and most of these have
flight over the Valley of Geysers and the Uzon
travelled there with Quark Expeditions. The
volcano caldera. After landing among boiling mud
Only a fraction of the three million works of art
adventure specialist goes one step further, too, by
and artefacts in the Hermitage museum’s
allowing its passengers to photograph the “top of
collection is on display; the rest is housed in
the world” from a tethered hot-air balloon. The
a series of enormous vaults. Viking River Cruises,
cruise line’s Russian icebreaker, 50 Years of
which has been offering itineraries in Russia since
Victory, powered by a nuclear reactor, sets out
1997, has used its long-standing links to secure
from Murmansk and crashes its way through
access to these vaults for guests on its Russian
pack ice for a week to reach its destination at
waterways voyages. Working closely with
90 degrees north. Just short of the Pole, the
Geraldine Norman, the advisor to the director of
balloon is inflated and guests can hover, four at
the museum, it has developed The Hermitage
a time, above the magnificent icy wilderness and
Behind Closed Doors excursion, which includes
peer down on the ship, wedged in the ice below.
a tour of the museum with an art historian
At the Pole itself Quark holds a barbecue on the
(before the crowds arrive) and a visit to the
ice with a champagne toast to mark the occasion.
private vaults to see 19th-century frescoes,
Book it Quark Expeditions (0808 120 2333,
treasured sculptures, furniture and imperial
quarkexpeditions.com) is offering North Pole
carriages belonging to the Romanov family, as
voyages from £14,190 per person, including most
well as some of the priceless diplomatic gifts
excursions. During 2013, the balloon flight costs
that were bestowed on Stalin.
£190 (prices for 2014 have yet to be announced).
holes, hot streams and more than 40 steam
voyage includes an “after-hours” evening in
vents in the Valley of Geysers, passengers set off
a historic or unusual venue, with music and
on foot through an other-worldly landscape. After
entertainment on tap and the opportunity to
a second landing in the Uzon caldera – a lunar
sample the local cuisine in an authentic setting.
landscape of vivid colour, caused by mineral
On this cruise, it is rum punch at sunset followed
deposits from more than 1,000 hot springs –
by jerk chicken, plantain rolls and sweet potato
there is a chance to catch sight of the brown
balls, with a live band to raise the tempo.
bears and reindeer that roam this remote area.
Fairview was built in the 18th century as the
Book it Compagnie du Ponant (0800 980 4027,
home of a French military commander, but it has
ponant.com) is offering a 10-night cruise from
since been inhabited by a host of prominent
Petropavlosk to Otaru in Japan on board the new
locals, including James Stephen, an abolitionist
expedition yacht Le Soléal, departing on October
lawyer and the great-grandfather of the novelist
5, from £3,969 per person, including flights from
Virginia Woolf. The house has recently been
Paris. The excursion costs £1,039 per person.
restored, and guests can wander through the rooms, including the original kitchen and
THE UPPER RHINE, GERMANY
Have a baroque banquet The luxury river-cruise operator Scenic Tours, which offers such perks as 24-hour butler service and inclusive drinks, has introduced a new
bathroom, and cross the cobbled courtyard Culture club Clockwise, from above: The Hermitage in St Petersburg, which does private tours; Lucia Odescalchi, who runs jewellery classes in Rome; swimming with sea lions; and Formula 1 in Bahrain
to the lush gardens. Book it Azamara Club Cruises (0844 493 4016, azamaraclubcruises.co.uk) is offering a 12-night Frenchmen and Virgins voyage – a round-trip from
evening event on selected Rhine cruises. From
Miami visiting the Virgin Islands and the eastern
the riverside town of Karlsruhe in Germany,
Caribbean – on board Azamara Quest, departing
guests are taken to the early-18th-century Rastatt
on November 26, from £1,952 per person,
Palace. The oldest baroque residence in the
excluding flights. There is no extra charge for the
Upper Rhine region, Rastatt is modelled on
Azamazing evening, but passengers must book.
Versailles and offers visitors a visual feast of SEA OF CORTEZ, MEXICO
lavish stucco figures and reliefs, impressive chandeliers and elaborate ceiling frescoes
Swim with sea lions
painted by Italian artists. Scenic Tours guests are
The small expedition ship Safari Endeavour
treated to a private tour followed by a classical
anchors just off Los Islotes, a desolate cluster of
music concert before sitting down to a banquet
rocks in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico, where skiffs
in one of the palace’s ornate salons.
take passengers as close as possible to the
Book it Scenic Tours (0161 236 2444,
craggy outcrops. The adventurous can then don
scenictours.co.uk) is offering a 15-day
a mask and snorkel and plunge into the melée of
Romantic Rhine and Moselle cruise
wild Californian sea lions that gather here in large
from Amsterdam to Basel, with departures
numbers to breed. Snorkellers will be nipped,
until mid-October, from £2,495 per person,
jostled and nudged to make them interact as
including flights and excursions.
juvenile sea lions show off, buzzing swimmers underwater and gobbling mouthfuls of fish as
they leap like dolphins towards the dive boat.
Camp on the ice shelf
The trick is to treat them as large, very playful
Many expeditions to the White
puppies that happen to be superb swimmers.
Continent follow in the footsteps of great explorers
DON A MASK AND SNORKEL AND PLUNGE INTO A MELEE OF WILD SEA LIONS
such as Amundsen and Scott. Hurtigruten, whose ships have been transporting locals around Norway’s Arctic coast for more than 120 years, takes hardy
Antarctic expeditions on board the
with materials such
MS Fram. On the designated day (ground arrangements in Antarctica depend on the
as steel, matte gold, brown diamonds, rough-cut
stucco and paint to save them from destruction
Book it Mundy Adventures (020 7399 7630,
during the Cultural Revolution, the paintings were
mundyadventures.co.uk) is offering a 10-night
uncovered only in 1997. The tour also includes
Baja’s Bounty cruise on Safari Endeavour
a visit to the city’s former abattoir, an architectural
with American Safari Cruises from £3,455 per person, including flights and excursions.
weather and the condition of the ice), a small
rock crystal, amethysts and emeralds. This three-
art-deco gem in the historical Hongkou district,
group leaves the warmth of the ship for the
hour workshop – led by Odescalchi, in her 16th-
which is fast becoming a must-visit hub of art and
ice, pitching two-man expedition tents furnished
century palazzo in the city centre – allows
creativity. Another quirky highlight is the marriage
with thermal sleeping bags, for a night to
participants to study her technique and create
market near People’s Square – a vast, open-air
See Formula 1 and falcons
remember in the snowy wilderness. During the
their own piece using an age-old method of
match-making event at which parents attempt to
One of a series of family-friendly excursions from
Austral summer, when the sun barely sets,
reproduction to create a cast, pour molten
find husbands or wives for their single offspring.
Hapag-Lloyd, Germany’s most luxurious cruise
campers may have inquisitive penguins for
metal into it and refine and polish the result.
company – but getting a decent night’s sleep is
Book it Crystal Cruises (020 7399 7601,
waterfront Bund, a sweep of former bank
2. Its round-trip voyage from Dubai, during the
secondary to the adventure.
crystalcruises.co.uk) is offering a nine-night Italian
buildings and trading houses that flanks the
2014 Easter school holidays, includes such
Book it Hurtigruten (0844 448 7601, hurtigruten.
Dreams cruise from Venice to Monte Carlo on
western bank of the Huangpu River, with views
activities as desert driving in Qatar, a visit to the
co.uk) is offering a 10-day Antarctica Classic
Crystal Serenity, departing on September 19,
across to the skyscrapers of Pudong – the
F1 circuit in Bahrain and a dolphin-spotting trip on
Expedition Voyage departing from Ushuaia,
from £3,325 per person, including flights. The
gleaming 21st-century vision across the water.
a traditional dhow to Oman’s rarely visited
Argentina, on November 22, from £3,898 per
excursion costs an additional £725 per person.
Book it Silversea (0844 251 0837, silversea.com)
Musandam peninsula. In Abu Dhabi, the highlight
is offering a 14-day cruise from Hong Kong to
is a tour of the Falcon Hospital – the world’s
Tokyo on board Silver Shadow, departing on
largest rehabilitation facility for falcons, one of
April 19, 2014, from £3,850 per person. The
the great icons of Arab culture. This will be
sidecar excursion costs £525 for two people.
followed by a desert drive in a 4x4, with a chance
person. Flights and hotel accommodation in Buenos Aires start at £1,692 per person and the excursion costs £330 per person.
Ride in a vintage sidecar Guests can plunge headlong into the throng of
Design your own jewellery
The tour culminates in a drive along the
humanity – albeit with style – in the sidecar of a 1930s motorcycle with a Shanghai resident as
ABU DHABI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES
line, this one is available on the brand-new Europa
to spot the magnificent birds of prey in the wild. ST KITTS, THE CARIBBEAN
Book it Hapag Lloyd (0049 40 3001 4580, hl-
Participants in Crystal Cruises’ exclusive Jewellery
their guide. The luxury cruise line Silversea offers
Dine at a historic house
cruises.com) is offering an eight-night round-trip
Showroom and Workshop tour in Rome will come
this unusual tour of China’s largest city, taking in
The scented tropical gardens surrounding Fairview
Dubai cruise from £4,721 per adult in a two-room
away with an original piece they have designed
some of its less-visited sights, including the
Great House, on the Caribbean island of St Kitts,
family apartment (free for children under 11),
and cast themselves. Lucia Odescalchi, a former
elaborate ceiling mosaics that adorn the dome of
provide the backdrop for one of a new series of
cruise-only, departing on April 20, 2014. The
Valentino model, has turned her hand to jewellery
the Pudong Development Bank. Covered with
events from Azamara Club Cruises. Each Azamara
excursion costs an additional £77 per person.
guests camping on the ice during its
SMALL SHIP CRUISING WITH
- SPECIAL OFFER PRICES FROM ONLY £2995
IAL SPEC RICES ER P OFF NIGHTS 10 NLY MO O R F
Island hopping in Cape Verde
5 9 9 2 £ ON PERS PER
Voyages exploring the Cape Verde archipelago aboard the MS Island Sky - November & December 2013
Escape the British winter and enjoy the warmth and beauty of the Cape Verde archipelago aboard the wonderfully comfortable MS Island Sky as she undertakes exactly the type of itinerary that suits her best. Like the Azores but even more remote, the Cape Verde Islands are an intriguing archipelago located off the coast of Senegal. They are an amazingly varied group of islands that have been used as a staging post by mariners through the ages and there is truly no better way to explore the region, with its dramatic beauty and cultural vibrancy than by small ship, and with the MS Island Sky as our base we can island hop with great ease.
he MS Island Sky will be exploring the Cape Verde archipelago from November to mid December over the course of three voyages – the order of islands visited and the length of time spent in the archipelago varies but all three voyages provide an in-depth exploration of the culture, wildlife and lifestyle of the islands, some of which are arid and ﬂat with extraordinary beaches and sand dunes contrasting with lush mountainous islands. It is a little world of its own, each island having a distinct culture and atmosphere and an ideal archipelago for small ship cruising.
The Islands Palmeira, Sal: The island of Sal was relatively undeveloped until the mid nineteenth century when salt export business was developed. We will see the saltpans and after lunch visit the town of Santa Maria for a relaxing afternoon swimming from the beaches or exploring the local shops for Cape Verdean crafts. Maio: We spend a full day on the tiny island of Maio, a peaceful island with vast deserted beaches. Our time on the island will be relaxing allowing for time at leisure to walk along the long beaches next to our anchorage. Our onboard staff will run walking tours to the capital of Vila do Maio with its huge white Baroque church and pretty pastel painted houses. Whilst the birders will have a chance to see the proliﬁc birdlife.
wonderful conditions for the ﬂora. Our tour will include arguably the most beautiful bay in the islands at Faja d’Agua with its pretty nearby village. Sao Nicolau: Sao Nicolau is a charming, peaceful and attractive island of plantations, small holdings and busy farming villages. It also has impressive, almost untouched mountain scenery, friendly residents and lively traditions. On our tour we will drive through a spectacular landscape towards the historical capital Ribeira Brava. Here we will discover the lively centre of the island which reﬂects the character of the people.
Praia, Sao Tiago: The island of Sao Tiago, and in particular the capital of Praia, is a busy town with a very African feel. We drive to nearby Cidade Velha, the old Portuguese capital with a rich history. See the fort and cathedral and visit the National Maritime Museum of marine archaeology.
Mindelo, Sao Vincente: Mindelo is one of the most attractive of all Cape Verde towns with its colonial buildings, cobbled streets, cafes and lively restaurants. During our time here we will go on a discovery tour of the lively markets and the secret corners of the harbour town. We moor for two nights here allowing time to explore the charming port on a pre or post diner stroll and on one evening enjoy a performance by local musicians and a capoeira display on board.
Fogo & Brava: During our voyages we spend two days exploring Fogo and Brava. Fogo is an extraordinary place. Known as the ‘Mother Island’ it has its own unique character and people. An island drive will take us through dramatically contrasting areas of fertile valleys that are dominated by the massive grey volcanic cone of Pico de Fogo. Later, call into the main town of Sao Filipe, a gracious town of faded grandeur. Brava is often referred to as the ‘Secret Island’ as it is sometimes mist shrouded and the humid conditions produce
Porto Novo, Santo Antao: Santo Antao is regarded as the most beautiful of the islands. During our exploration of the island we drive up the old trading route, enjoying panoramic views of the island before arriving in a tiny picturesque mountain village. After lunch in the seaside village of Ponta de Sol, we will take the coastal road towards the greenest valley in the archipelago, the valley of Paul where we will learn about the production of sugarcane on the island. Also discover ‘Grogue’, the national drink of the islands.
Voyage 1 - 15th to 25th November 2013
Santo Antao Mindelo Sao Nicolau
Voyage 2 - 25th November to 5th December 2013 Voyage 3 - 5th to 15th December 2013
Santo Antao Mindelo Sao Nicolau
CAPE VERDE ISLANDS
CAPE VERDE ISLANDS Maio
Sao Tiago Brava
Day 1 London Gatwick to Mindelo, Sao Vincente. Fly by specially chartered direct ﬂight. Embark the MS Island Sky this evening and moor overnight. Day 2 Mindelo, Sao Vincente. Day 3 Mindelo, Sao Vincente & Porto Novo, Santo Antao Day 4 Santo Antao Day 5 Sao Nicolau Days 6 & 7 Fogo & Brava Day 8 Praia, Sao Tiago Day 9 Maio Day 10 Palmeira, Sal Day 11 Palmeira to London Gatwick. Disembark this morning and transfer to the airport for our specially chartered direct ﬂight to London.
Day 1 London Gatwick to Palmeira, Sal. Fly by specially chartered direct ﬂight. Embark the MS Island Sky this evening and moor overnight. Day 2 Palmeira, Sal Day 3 Maio Day 4 Praia, Sao Tiago Days 5 & 6 Fogo & Brava Day 7 Santo Antao Day 8 Porto Novo, Santo Antao & Mindelo, Sao Vincente Day 9 Mindelo, Sao Vincente Day 10 Sao Nicolau Day 11 Palmeira to London Gatwick. Disembark this morning and transfer to the airport for our specially chartered direct ﬂight to London.
Excellent value for money SPECIAL OFFER PRICES PER PERSON BASED ON DOUBLE OCCUPANCY RANGE FROM £2995 FOR A STANDARD FORWARD SUITE TO £4495 FOR AN OWNER’S BALCONY SUITE. SUITES FOR SOLE USE FROM £4495. Price Includes: Economy class privately chartered air travel • 10 nights aboard the MS Island Sky on full board • House wine, beer or soft drinks with lunch and dinner onboard • lecture programme • shore excursions • gratuities to crew and whilst on shore excursions • transfers • port taxes • airport taxes. NB. Ports subject to change. All special offers are subject to availability. Our current booking conditions apply to all reservations and are available on request. Travel insurance and visa are not included in the price.
MS Island Sky
he MS Island Sky is one of the ﬁnest small ships in the world with an atmosphere akin to a private yacht or country hotel. With a maximum passenger capacity of only 114, the all-suite vessel has the beneﬁt of unusually large accommodation, public areas and spacious outside decks. All suites feature a sitting room area and some have a private balcony. The spacious and ﬁnely decorated public rooms include a lounge, elegant bar, library and a single seating dining room. Outside there is a rear sun deck where meals are served in warm weather under shade, a bar and comfortable deck furniture. On the top deck there is a Jacuzzi, further observation and sun deck.
Call us today on 020 7752 0000 for your copy of our brochure. Alternatively view or request online at www.noble-caledonia.co.uk
SMALL SHIPS - BIG EXPERIENCES
U LT R A S A I L
Cruise passengers need something to look at other than the changing seascape. Why not a ÂŁ4 million van Gogh or 25 prints by Andy Warhol? Norman Miller explores the long tradition of cruise lines buying art
ast month, when the brand-new Norwegian Breakaway took up its mooring at New Yorkâ€™s Manhattan Terminal, it became the largest cruise ship ever to have been based there. It is also one of the largest pieces of art on Earth, its hull a metallic canvas for a 40,000sqft work by the American illustrator Peter Max. In January 2014, the Norwegian Getaway â€“ owned by the same company, Norwegian Cruise Line (NCL) â€“ will become a ďŹ‚oating canvas too, when the Miami-based muralist David â€œLeboâ€? Le Batard unveils a similarly vast painting on its hull. Turning cruise ships into art is a natural progression from their long history as ďŹ‚oating galleries. In the golden age of cruising, the classic liners were often used to showcase the private collections of their wealthy owners. Itâ€™s an idea conveyed in James Cameronâ€™s ďŹ lm Titanic, in which Picassoâ€™s Les Demoiselles dâ€™Avignon is shown going down with the ship â€“ though that is pure cinematic fantasy, unless the picture hanging at the Museum of Modern Art in New York isnâ€™t all it seems. Some of the opulence and glamour of that era was recaptured in 2003 and 2004, when passengers on NCLâ€™s Norwegian Dawn sailed with a collection of original oil paintings by Renoir, Matisse, van Gogh and Monet, exhibited in the vesselâ€™s Le Bistro restaurant. On loan from Tan Sri Lim Kok â€“ the chairman of Star Cruises, NCLâ€™s parent company â€“ the collection included Monetâ€™s VĂŠtheuil de Soleil, Matisseâ€™s Nu au Turban, one of Renoirâ€™s La Baigneuse paintings and van Goghâ€™s Un Parc au Printemps â€“ alone estimated to be worth more than ÂŁ4 million. It was said at the time that the value of the paintings in this one restaurant exceeded that of the entire art collection on most other cruise ships.
PAINTING BY NUMBERS
Travel trunk Bert Rodriguezâ€™s installation, in the grand foyer of Celebrity Reflection, features a real tree suspended in mid-air, mirrored by another made of cast aluminium
ÂŁ80 MILLION Amount spent on art by Celebrity Cruises. ÂŁ4 MILLION Value of one painting on board Norwegian Dawn. 40,000 sqft Area of mural on hull of Norwegian Breakaway. ÂŁ50,000 Amount bid at auction by one cruise passenger on art worth only ÂŁ6,500.
In addition, Norwegian Dawnâ€™s stairwells were hung with 25 signed, numbered silkscreen prints by Andy Warhol. These days, NCL has switched its focus to hull art â€“ but on other cruise ships, the tradition of displaying historic works of art continues. Royal Caribbean and its sister line, Celebrity Cruises, have spent more than $120 million (about ÂŁ80 million) on art over the past 15 years, amassing one of the worldâ€™s largest corporate collections featuring about 15,000 contemporary works. Artists on the ďŹ‚eet inventory include Robert Rauschenberg, Joseph Beuys, Marc Quinn, Anish Kapoor and Vik Muniz. Celebrity Cruisesâ€™ burgeoning collection is curated by Mariangela Capuzzo, the creative director of International Corporate Art (ICArt). â€œTheir ships have become a platform for a stellar art collection,â€? she says, â€œwith work by important established, mid-career and emerging artists. They [Celebrity Cruises] give us a budget and the freedom to buy, and we try to create a museum-like experience for guests on board.â€? Rather than take a scatter-gun approach, Capuzzo builds collections on a theme. With her budget of $4.1 million (about ÂŁ2.7 million) for Celebrity ReďŹ‚ection,
P&O was an early champion of David Hockney, buying works when he was still a student at the Royal College of Art. More recent recipients of P&O patronage have included Julian Wild, Halima Cassell, Paul Wright and Martha Winter. â€œMost of the artists have gone from strength to strength since they were ďŹ rst commissioned by P&O,â€? Tempest-Radford points out â€“ so scribble down those names now as you wander the gangways. Some cruise ships serve as satellite salerooms for established art dealers. Silversea vessels host the Andrew Weiss Gallery, selling museum-quality work including ceramics by Pablo Picasso, bronzes by Salvador DalĂ, works by Chagall, MirĂł, Henry Moore and Modigliani, plus photography from the 1930s and 1940s by star practitioners such as Bert Stern. Cunardâ€™s new Queen Elizabeth is home to an outpost of Clarendon Fine Art, with potential purchases ranging from art deco paintings to silverware by Asprey. Royal Caribbean, meanwhile, has used its Allure of the Seas as a gallery selling the work of Romero Britto, a Brazilian pop artist.
ON SOME SHIPS, PASSENGERS ARE GIVEN IPADS LOADED WITH THE LOCATIONS OF VARIOUS WORKS OF ART ON BOARD she combined suitable pieces from the ďŹ‚eetâ€™s collection with 130 new purchases on the theme â€œThe Seductiveness of a ReďŹ‚ectionâ€?. Works include Mirror Flower by Jeff Koons, plus large-scale commissions including Bert Rodriguezâ€™s installation in the upper grand foyer, featuring an entire tree suspended in mid-air, mirrored by another made of cast aluminium. hen installing art on ships, safety is paramount. Wood must be ďŹ re-treated and any resins approved by the International Maritime Organization. No work can contain plexiglass, which can emit toxic chemicals in a ďŹ re. And because there is so much natural light on modern cruise ships, paintings are rarely displayed behind glass, which is too reďŹ‚ective. For the eight works on Celebrity Mercury, Capuzzo began working with the artists while the ship was still being built in Germany, using drawings rather than existing spaces. At Hurtigruten, too, art is integrated into ship design long before a vessel goes to sea. â€œThe purchasing of art is part of the new building project,â€? says Kathryn Beadle, managing director of Hurtigruten UK, adding that works are chosen to reďŹ‚ect the Norwegian landscape and the waters plied by a particular ship. MS Trollfjord features the expressionistic paintings of Kaare Espolin Johnson, inspired by the Lofoten ďŹ shing industry and the hardships of the High North. On MS Fram, the ďŹ‚eetâ€™s newest ship, works by contemporary Greenland artists reďŹ‚ect its mainly Polar routes. â€œHurtigruten brings its guests closer to the culture of the regions travelled through,â€? says Beadle, â€œwhile at the same time promoting local artists.â€? At smaller ports, some are invited to bring their work on board â€“ a rare chance to exhibit, given the difďŹ culty of the terrain and the distances separating them from the nearest gallery. On its ships, P&O Cruises showcases British artists. Commissioning duties fall to Tom Tempest-Radford, a corporate art buyer, who works with the interior designers of each new vessel built to come up with a â€œlookâ€? before ďŹ nding the right British artist to fulďŹ l it.
Marquet forces From top: Viscount Linleyâ€™s 18ft-tall marquetry panel on Queen Elizabeth; Marilyn Monroe, photographed by Bert Stern, part of the Andrew Weiss Gallery collection on Silversea; Silver Shadow; a Kaare Johnson painting on MS Trollfjord; and Space Venus, Salvador Daliâ€™s work on Silver Shadow
Be wary, however, of ship-board auctions. A tide of complaints â€“ and even legal actions â€“ have resulted from passengers parting with large sums, only to discover they have bought work worth far less than the pre-sales hype suggested. Some have even had their purchases identiďŹ ed as fake by experts back on shore. One cruise customer who went to court spent more than $70,000 (ÂŁ50,000) on works that turned out to be worth nearer $10,000. For sheer pedigree, it is hard to beat a royal artist â€“ such as the master woodworker Viscount Linley, whose superlative â€œďŹ ttingâ€? for Cunard blurs the boundary between dĂŠcor and art. The 18ft-tall marquetry panel, his largest creation to date, spans two-and-a-half decks in the Queen Elizabethâ€™s grand lobby and depicts the port bow of its historic namesake seen from sea level. On Queen Elizabethâ€™s sister ship, Queen Victoria, Cunard has maintained a long company tradition of commissioning new royal sculpture or portraits, in this case a painting of the Duchess of Cornwall by Richard Stone. As well as exhibiting art, Cunard brings artists on board to talk about their work. Other companies offer enlightenment through technology. On some ships operated by Celebrity Cruises, passengers are given iPads loaded with the locations of various works on board, along with relevant information. Holland America Line, meanwhile, offers self-guided tours using MP3 players to interpret an eclectic mix of art on its 15 ships. Worth millions of dollars, its collection ranges from17th-century Dutch masters to Pop Art by Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein, medallions by Frank Lloyd Wright and beautifully crafted aluminium lift doors inspired by the Chrysler Building in New York. Surrounded by such sophistication and grandeur, it is hard not to feel a certain frisson. As one cruise blogger wrote, â€œIâ€™m not even an art enthusiast but I felt something strong and alluring about standing in the presence of the master works displayed.â€? Itâ€™s a sign that the cruise companies have customer satisfaction down to a ďŹ ne art.
Redentore Terrazza Suite THE GRITTI PALACE, VENICE
0039 041 794611, luxurycollection.com/grittipalace Price From £5,050 (all prices are per room per night) Suite size 820sq ft, terrace 2,690sq ft Opened February 2013 USP The best views in Venice? The panorama from the Campanile in St Mark’s Square, for one, the broad sweep of the Venetian lagoon from San Giorgio Maggiore for another. And then? How about the extraordinary outlook from the Redentore Terrazza Suite of the Gritti Palace, the city’s most historic hotel? Climb a spiral staircase from this top-floor suite and you emerge on to a vast roof terrace for your exclusive use. Ignore, for now, the private pool and the Terrazza’s sheer size – any terrace is rare in space-starved Venice, let alone one this large – and instead let your eyes examine the astonishing view. The 360-degree panorama takes in a sea of towers and rooftops, the Lido and distant lagoon, Giudecca island, the loveliest stretch of the Grand Canal, the vast dome of Santa Maria della Salute and the distant outline of the Redentore, the Palladian church that gives the suite its name. The details The Redentore is not the largest or grandest of the Gritti’s 21 suites, all of which emerged from a restoration project earlier this year that cost £36 million and left the hotel closed for 15 months. Rather it is cosy and romantic, with rug-covered wooden floors, a colour scheme of rich, warm reds, pretty floral silk wall-coverings and all the many treasures – valuable antiques, prints, paintings, frescoes and fine period furniture – that lend the Gritti its sumptuous period splendour. The two-storey suite has private lift access from the lobby, discreetly integrated state-of-the-art technology, including Bang & Olufsen televisions, as well as incidentals, such as the lavish Acqua di Parma toiletries. There is no butler – but such is the Gritti’s level of service, it’s not something you are likely to miss. How long you will spend in the suite is a moot point, however, because the chances are you’ll be out on the terrace to eat, drink, sunbathe, share cocktails with a hundred of your best friends, lie in the pool and look at the stars or simply to stare in wonder at one of the most mesmerising views of any city in the world. Tim Jepson
A SKYLINE OF ONE’S OWN Private spa, private bar, fancy furnishings and iPad controls? Between them, these six new suites have all the mod cons – but the superlative views they offer are the real draw
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GEORGE V, PARIS 0033 149 527000, fourseasons.com/paris Price From £16,950 Suite size 1,630sq ft
Opened May 2012 USP It’s like having your own pied-à-terre, but with five-star service – apart from one small gripe: the waiter was 10 minutes late with our room-service order. He swiftly poured us a glass of crisp Sancerre and we wandered out from the conservatory on to a balcony that seems to overlook the whole of Paris. Right on cue, the lights of the Eiffel Tower sparkled into life in
YOU FEEL AS THOUGH YOU ARE ON A SHIP, WITH WAVE UPON WAVE OF HAUSSMANN’S GRID-LIKE STREETS BELOW YOU
front of us. “Yes, I ‘ad a word wiv zem,” said the errant waiter, without missing a beat. All those who serve in the George V’s penthouse suite have an answer for everything, it seems. Out on the main balcony, you feel as though you are on the prow of a ship, with wave upon wave of Haussmann’s grid-like streets below you. The view of the Eiffel Tower may be the show-stopper but even on the haziest of days the 360-degree panorama takes in the Sacré Coeur Basilica and the American Cathedral in all their glory. A winding staircase takes you up to a smaller, higher, more intimate balcony (the bridge, perhaps) where the perspective is even better: from there you can make out the rooftops of the Panthéon, Invalides and Madeleine. Even the bedroom comes complete with a private balcony and four-poster day bed. The details Housed on the eighth floor, this welcoming and spacious suite feels more like a private apartment than part of a hotel. Elegant and contemporary, rather than extravagant or ornate, the space, created by Pierre-Yves Rochon, successfully blends old and new: think Baccarat crystal glassware and Second Empire furniture, as well as iPads, plasma screens and an infinity bath with underwater lighting. But it is the little things that set this suite apart: the pair of reading glasses for guests who might have forgotten theirs, the alternative set of toiletries (for those who don’t like Bulgari products, there is Sodashi), the plasma television hidden behind a mirror, the gargantuan walk-in shower surrounded by a winter garden of white orchids (by the master florist Jeff Leatham) and the second bathroom by the front door for those in a hurry to leave. Not that you will ever want to. Charles Starmer-Smith
Top deck The view of the Eiffel Tower (top) is just the start of the 360-degree panorama. The interiors, above and left, by Pierre-Yves Rochon, mix old and new styles
Between desert and sea Outside and inside the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai. Below: a tablet controls the curtains
yomps all the way to Oman. At night the glittering towers and ceaseless traffic
JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS HOTEL DUBAI
of this fast-growing city blaze like the myriad jewels in its famous gold souk.
00971 4414 0000, jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com
and catches the sunset; the next-door Marquis Suite looks towards the city
Price From £8,750
and the spire of Burj Khalifa. The decor is play-it-safe − executive black meets
Suite size 6,716sq ft
silvery grey, Middle-Eastern plush mingles with Asian calm. The spacious
Opened February 2013
entrance lounge is a 21st-century take on the Arabic majlis where guests are
USP Forget Tibet. The new roof of the world is this airy presidential suite
traditionally welcomed, with wooden latticework recalling the mashrabiya
crowning a 1,164ft skyscraper overlooking Dubai’s emerging Business Bay
window. From the private bar and dining room, guests climb a curved staircase
district. It is at the top of the world’s tallest hotel, one of only two properties
to the master bedroom and marble bathroom with Jacuzzi. There is a smaller
in Marriott’s vast portfolio to be granted the supreme title of Marquis. Your
en-suite twin bedroom, and a grand study with a big desk and panoramic views
front door opens on the 69th floor, between a glitzy cocktail lounge on the
that will undoubtedly inspire some blue-sky thinking. Soothing treatments can
70th and a smart restaurant serving prime steaks on the 68th. Inside is a
be arranged in the private spa room, where there is mood lighting, a Bose
contemporary two-bedroom suite spread over two storeys, with floor-to-ceiling
sound system and tip-top service. When it’s time for bed the curtains, lights
windows so guests can drink in the master-of-the-universe views. Point the
and air conditioning are controlled by a touch-screen tablet, so you can truly
chrome-plated binoculars one way and there are the golden beaches and
fall asleep with your head in the clouds.
turquoise waters of the Persian Gulf. Swivel round, and the uncaring desert
The details The JW, one of a pair of identical penthouse suites, faces the sea
the Cuckoo’s Nest-style padded leather walls – are white. There aren’t many places to lounge, either. Should you and your guests want to sit, you can do so in a long row on a white upright banquette – unless you fancy lying almost supine in a sculpted leather armchair or perching downstairs around a white oval dining table. The bedroom, with a secluded balcony, is cosy, but with a walk-in wardrobe, marble bathroom with generous shower and oval bathtub (plus Apivita amenities), who needs a huge bedroom? Besides, who wants to sleep when there is so much to do and guests have so many toys to play with? There’s a Bose audio system, three
at its heart. Because the second-floor living room
you’re encased in a glass cocoon, with speakers
televisions, spa treatments, a “mind and body”
of the duplex suite is round and encased in glass,
in every ceiling, an events manager to organise
minibar, an iPad – and a complicated electronics
sitting in it is like being in a lighthouse, overlooking
private dinners and drinks – and direct access
system to control them all. Then there is a
0808 234 1953, melia.com
a sea of roofs, cars and people below. Across the
to Radio, the hotel’s rooftop bar.
charming “Aura” team member to help you work
Price From £3,180
road, guests in the One Aldwych hotel are getting
The details If the entrance hall outside feels
the lights/phones/music and deliver sensational
Suite size 1,065sq ft
undressed, unaware that from this glass eyrie you
slightly mausoleum-like, clad in black marble and
Italian cuisine from Cucina Asellina. The guests
Opened April 2013
can see everything. To the west, Nelson’s Column
dimly lit, the interior of the suite couldn’t be any
before me, apparently, drank and danced until
USP There isn’t another room in London like this,
rises into the sky, with Buckingham Palace
lighter or brighter. However, there is minimal
4am. They had the right idea; in a suite designed
at the top of Foster + Partners’ architecturally
glowing golden behind, and to the east are the
colour. Furniture, candles, soap, towels, carpets,
for partying, why would you do anything else?
adventurous hotel, with a pyramid-shaped space
glinting skyscrapers of Canary Wharf. Inside,
marble floors, flowers – even the One Flew Over
İstanbul Turkish Culture and Tourism Ofﬁce Tel: 020 7839 7778 | www.gototurkey.co.uk
Blue view Water on the Water, the floating pool at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Below: the balcony, which also has a Jacuzzi
GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO, LAKE COMO
furniture straight out of the Salone Internazionale del Mobile in Milan. Itâ€™s exactly
Price From ÂŁ1,010
what you might expect of a new suite
Suite size 650sq ft, plus 300sq ft private terrace
grafted on to a timeless grand hotel.
Opened May 2012
The details One of eight suites on the top
USP This rooftop eyrie may be five floors up from the shimmering
floor, the Bellagio can be combined with
surface of Lake Como, but guests feel intimately connected with the
a corner suite â€“ or all eight can be rented as
lake and its glamorous retro lifestyle. From the private terrace, you
one. It comprises a bedroom with walk-in wardrobe, a living room
can watch seaplanes land, see the battello (vintage ferry) ply the
with floor-to-ceiling windows, and a marble bathroom with double
waters between here and Bellagio â€“ the village that gives the suite
sinks, a Jacuzzi with myriad water-jet settings and a roomy shower
its name â€“ or look down on Ru, the hotelâ€™s varnished 1961 launch,
with simple, chunky controls. Everything works perfectly, from the
cute as a bath toy and in every respect the opposite of a stretch
Loewe sound system to the flatscreen televisions and the Jacuzzi
limo. From up here, the view is just water, mountains and sky. As the
on the terrace, shielded from the wind by glass panels. Here,
sun sets, the majestic Grigne peaks glow pastel pink then fade to
prosecco in hand, you can hydrotherapise, catch rays and admire
granite grey, colours brought inside by Venelli Kramer, the interior
that view. A butler is posted outside, should the plumbing fail.
designer, who has melded old-world grandeur (chaises longues,
elongated sitting room, a dining table
Memorial Church; beyond, the
and grand piano are on hand for
wooded expanse of Tiergarten gives
dinner guests; at the other, couches
0049 308 140000,
way to a volley of weighty landmarks,
surround a gas fire and a large-screen
from the SiegessĂ¤ule Victory Column,
television made unobtrusive by
Price From ÂŁ4,215
crowned by a glistening golden angel,
a mirrored panel. Light and
Suite size 3,000sq ft
to the Brandenburg Gate, behind
uncluttered, the main bedroom leads
Opened January 2013
a canopy of trees. The most surprising
to a walk-in wardrobe and a sprawling
USP The area around the Zoologischer
view is much closer; one of the baths
bathroom with a private balcony
Garten may be a mix of Sixties office
overlooks the zoo, where the amble
positioned to catch the sunset.
blocks and neon-fronted shops, but
of lumbering elephants and graceful
this district is on the up. The opening
giraffes provides a calming contrast to
suite opened, I encountered problems
of the Waldorf Astoria is testament to
the distractions of this 24-hour city.
with the gadgetry and, worse, a faulty
that, and its Presidential Suite, at the
The details Taking up the whole
fire alarm that screeched into urgent
peak of the cityâ€™s fourth-tallest
of the hotelâ€™s 31st floor, the Waldorf
action in the middle of the night. I have
building, provides an illuminating
Astoriaâ€™s two-bedroom Presidential
since been assured that these teething
360-degree panorama. From the living
Suite is a demurely decorated space,
problems were swiftly dealt with.
room, the nearby KaDeWe department
soothingly finished in creams, golds
German efficiency triumphs again.
store peeps from behind the jagged
and browns. At one end of the
colours (cherry, plum, fuchsia) and stark white
0039 0344 42491, grandhoteltremezzo.com
spire of the bombed Kaiser Wilhelm
WALDORF ASTORIA BERLIN
mirrors in gilt frames) with fruity contemporary
During my stay, soon after the
YOANN STOECKEL; JOE PLIMMER; NIGEL TISDALL
Bellagio Rooftop Front Suite
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LIVE LIKE A CHÂTELAINE
ou can learn a surprising amount about wine from inside a helicopter. As the pilot points out the legendary châteaux of the Médoc or swoops among the hills of Saint-Emilion, it’s a good insight into the French notion of terroir and what it is that
makes each patch of vines and each wine different. A helicopter flight is just one of the options laid on by Bernard Magrez Luxury Wine Tourism, tailor-made wine tours around the three grand Bordeaux vineyards of the maverick wine producer Bernard Magrez: Château Pape Clément, Château Fombrauge and Château La Tour Carnet. Tours are adapted to different levels of knowledge, whether you want an introductory lesson, a vertical tasting of the best vintages of Pape-Clément, or a course in blending during which you create your own personal bottle. Wine discovery is complemented by the chance to “satisfy the dream of being a châtelaine for a night”. Cécile Daquin, Bernard Magrez’s daughter, says: “We leave the key, and it’s as if it were your home.” Guests spend the night in one of five sumptuous bedrooms at the fanciful neo-Gothic Château Pape
A ﬁne vintage Château Pape Clément, where guests of the Magrez family stay. A helicopter tour and wine-tasting are included, and sightseeing in Bordeaux is by Rolls-Royce
Clément, where a team of backstage staff serves dinner and stokes the fire, and the chef, Jérôme Bourcié, prepares gourmet meals – as well as offering cookery lessons. Excursions include sightseeing by Rolls-Royce in Bordeaux, a boat trip and oyster feast in a traditional wooden pinasse on the Bassin d’Arcachon, a speedboat ride up the Gironde estuary to Île de Patiras, a tiny haven with a vineyard and lighthouse. Daquin does her best to meet every personal whim: she once organised a private concert in the cellars of Château Fombrauge, so her guests could hear the Stradivarius bought by Magrez for the first violin of the Orchestre National de Bordeaux Aquitaine. Prices start at €880 (about £740) per person for helicopter flight, wine tasting and one night at Château Pape Clément (0033 557 264306, luxurywinetourism.fr).
TRAVEL BY NUMBERS
Cost at an auction, in pounds, of the swimming trunks worn by Daniel Craig in Casino Royale
LESSONS FROM GLOBAL EXPERTS Yannick Alléno is a two-Michelinstarred French chef whose dishes are served at some of the world’s leading hotels, such as the Royal Mansour in Marrakesh. He specialises in “Cuisine Moderne”, using techniques such as extraction and cryoconcentration.
What is extraction?
Number of muscles in an elephant’s trunk
Number of African elephants killed by poachers in 2011: one-nineteenth of the total population
Cost in pounds of a 1920s Goyard weekend trunk (bentleyslondon.com) THE BOOK
THE BOHO BIBLE
bohemian traveller herself, Julia
Dazzling Sol LeWitt’s Wall Drawing #1091 (2003)
years to perfect, working with Bruno and Education Academy (CREA) in
The inside track on the world’s greatest galleries and museums Michael Brand, director of the Art
And the most controversial?
Gallery of New South Wales, offers
The white-on-white painting Unknowing, from 2002, by the
a visual alternative for visitors to Sydney during the Lions rugby
London-based Iranian Shirazeh
tour this summer.
Houshiary, always attracts
What is special about
attention for its apparent
minimalism, which veils the
We have an outstanding
laborious application of countless
collection of Australian art, right and incredibly knowledgeable guides,
extracting pure juice. It has taken me Goussault at the Culinary Research
beside the Royal Botanic Gardens –
The process of concentrating taste by
Arabic characters to the canvas. Which artists should no one miss? We have the largest public collection of works
including a few who dress in character. A loud and
by the American artist Sol LeWitt, as well as
very cheeky fruit bat, for instance, leads tours of our
a fantastic collection of the works of the Aboriginal
Aboriginal collection and a beguiling Barbarella-type
artist Rover Thomas.
figure takes contemporary art tours.
What exhibitions do you have coming up?
What should visitors see if they have only
Of the 20 we show each year, we are most excited
three hours to spare?
about our next major summer exhibition, America:
Yiribana, our gallery for Aboriginal art, and our suite
Painting a Nation, the first survey of American
of recently re-installed galleries for 20th-century
painting ever held in Australia. Opening on July 6, we
Australian art. Plus, if they have time, the
have Sydney Moderns, featuring Australian art from
19th-century Australian paintings in our original
1915 to 1940 and, on August 22, A Silk Road Saga,
Victorian galleries and our historical Asian collection
which features an extraordinary late-sixth-century
housed in a beautiful “lantern” gallery. They could
white marble sarcophagus lent to us by the
finish in our cafe overlooking Sydney Harbour.
Shaanxi History Museum in China.
Which is the gallery’s most popular work?
What are the best things about your cafe?
Fire’s On, painted in 1891 by the Australian artist
The contemporary Australian cuisine, the indoor-
Arthur Streeton, which will be a highlight of this
outdoor seating and the multicoloured parakeets
autumn’s Australian exhibition at the Royal Academy.
that swing from umbrella cables outdoors.
Paris. I extract juice from every ingredient, to create tastes that are ultra-natural and concentrated. So it’s all about sauces? Sauces are the DNA of French cuisine. They first appeared in the 18th century. Then Auguste Escoffier created the “fonds” (stock) and, 70 years later, nouvelle cuisine gave us “les jus courts”. Extraction came next. Does this require specific tools? Yes, the Cookcooning, by Sylvie Coquet – an airtight container, in which you can cook a dish without it losing moisture, heat or taste. Is there a dish you’ve created that’s unlike any other? For the Cheval Blanc in Courchevel I macerated meat in barrels from Pierre Lurton and Château d’Yquem and it took on amazing flavours. Also, I love New York hot dogs and created a “veau-chaud” for Terroir Parisien, my Paris restaurant. It’s calf’s head in bread, with gribiche sauce: delicious! A French dish, bursting with flavour, which is easy to make? A thin strawberry tart with berries from Orgeval, on Île-de-France.
Chaplin understood the sorts of destinations her fellow “Gypsetters”
might enjoy: tropical places whose spirit combined the carefree ethos of the gypsy nomad with the sophistication of the jet set, where creativity rather than cash ruled, where the weather was warm and the surf swell. Having criss-crossed the globe, she has published her guide to the 10 top Gypset spots, from the Aeolian Islands in Italy to Lamu in Kenya and Todos Santos in Mexico. Each chapter, accompanied by portraits of arty people and hip places, includes tips on where to stay and eat – and compelling tales of historical figures who made these places their homes. Part travelogue, part style bible, part destination guide, this book is as pretty as it is readable (assouline.com, £30).
KEMOSABE his family-owned shop in central Aspen is the place to find cowboy gear: not just bolo ties and Stetsons, but the most covetable hand-stitched cowboy boots in the West. Best-sellers, from 200 styles, include the Rios Distressed (left) in summery hues (£400) and the Chocolate Lieutenant, in oiled calf (£650). For shoppers who can’t get to Colorado, items are for sale online – including cowboy hats that can be customised (kemosabe.com)
Private Jet Concierge PRIVATEFLY (Free) Skyscanner and Kayak are useful apps for comparing the prices of commercial flights, but what about private jets? Several companies offer this service, the best being PrivateFly. While its rivals such as BlackJet and Globe Air are limited by destination or aircraft type, this UKbased site monitors a global network of more than 7,000 aircraft. Once you have chosen your airports and flight times, its approved operators quote against each other. Prices are naturally in the thousands, although you can save money by searching the unused “empty legs” on one-way flights. With 24-hour support and the ability to arrange charters within 90 minutes, it is a fine and surprisingly affordable step up from first class. Mark Wilson
COUNTDOWN to The Cape
With Cape Town set to become World Design Capital next year, Lisa Grainger reveals her favourite spots in and around the city
REASONS TO GO Cape Town is the perfect city for ﬁrst-time visitors to Africa: no visas are required, most
locals speaks English and, as its clocks are only two hours ahead of Britain, jet lag is minimal. It is particularly appealing to lovers of the outdoors: around the peninsula are pretty beaches to visit (including a couple, at Betty’s Bay and Boulders, with penguins), the impressive Table Mountain to climb and the Kirstenbosch Garden (this year celebrating its centenary) to explore. An hour away are the winelands and their Cape Dutch homesteads and ﬁne restaurants. The city will be World Design Capital next year, showcasing the best of South African creativity, with art exhibitions, events and international talks (capetown2014.co.za).
RESTAURANTS The city’s food reﬂects its inhabitants’ ethnicity – from French
Huguenot to Malay and Zulu – as well as its position between the sea and rich farmland. Star chefs include Cape Town’s ﬁrst Relais & Chateaux Grand Chef, Peter Tempelhoff, who whips up modern cuisine in Cape Dutch surroundings at the Cellars-Hohenort in Constantia (0027 21 794 2137, cellars-hohenort.com); Luke Dale-Roberts, who delivers inventive platters at the Pot Luck Club in the artsy-crafty Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock (0027 21 447 0804, thepotluckclub. co.za); and Michael Broughton, known for French-inspired dishes at Kleine Zalze in Stellenbosch (0027 21 880 8167, kleinezalze.com). Babylonstoren, a restored 1690 farm in the Drakenstein Valley, grows fruit and vegetables in its glorious gardens (0027 21 863 3852, babylonstoren.com).
HOTELS The city has an excellent range, from elegant ﬁve-stars to characterful guesthouses. The Top table A farmturned-restaurant, Babylonstoren, known for fresh produce. Far left: intricate local bead-craft
Mount Nelson is the grand old lady, known for high teas (0027 21 483 1000, mountnelson.co.za). Outside the city, Steenberg has pretty 17th-century buildings surrounded by gardens and vines (0027 21 713 2222, steenberghotel.com). At the V&A Waterfront, the One & Only offers slick service and a restaurant headed by Rueben Riffel (0027 21 431 5888, capetown.oneandonlyresorts.com).
ESSENTIAL READS Long Walk to Freedom, Nelson Mandela’s autobiography, is a moving account of his early
life, including 27 years in prison. Disgrace, the literary masterpiece that won JM Coetzee the Booker Prize a second time, explores the new South Africa struggling to come to terms with its guilt.
THING YOU CANNOT MISS Taking the cable-car up Table Mountain (tablemountain.net) on a sunny day and soaking in
the views, then hiking through the national park, home to the richest variety of plants on earth.
Jane Archer tests the best suites at sea
QUEENS GRILL GRAND DUPLEX
SEVEN SEAS VOYAGER
QUEEN MARY 2
SILVERSEA SILVER SPIRIT
Design A spacious 1,216 sq ft inside,
Design The Balmoral and Sandringham
Design The suite, furnished by Ralph
Design The 914 sq ft suite incorporates
Design A stylish one-bedroom suite
and 187sq ft on the balcony. The living
Grand Duplex suites are 2,249 sq ft
Lauren Home, spans the width of the
a living room, a dining table for six,
with 1,102 sq ft of living space, plus
and dining room has a large flat-screen
inside, with a 300 sq ft balcony, and split
ship, giving 1,400 sq ft inside. The foyer,
a bathroom for guests and a bedroom
a 190 sq ft balcony (a two-bedroom
television, free bar and guest bathroom
over two levels. Upstairs there is
with grand piano, leads to a living and
with bathroom and whirlpool bath.
suite increases the size to 1,668 sq ft).
and there are two double bedrooms,
a bedroom and marble bathroom with
dining room, and the 626 sq ft balcony
USP Half of the 183 sq ft balcony is
Both bedrooms have ensuite marble
each with ensuite marble bathroom,
a whirlpool tub and downstairs are the
has a whirlpool and television.
enclosed by glass, with a tub and day
bathrooms with separate showers
double basins, separate showers and
living and dining area with a flat-screen
USP The butler, on call 24/7, will serve
bed for sky-lit lounging.
and bath tubs, and Bulgari toiletries.
bathtubs, and walk-in wardrobes.
television and a marble guest bathroom.
dinner from the speciality restaurants.
Why book? What the suite lacks in
The living room has separate sitting
USP Book this suite and you will be
USP The butler keeps you stocked up
There is free loan of a laptop and iPad,
size, Seabourn makes up for with
and dining areas, a flat-screen
upgraded to a business-class flight from
on complimentary wines, spirits and
plus a fridge of goodies on arrival.
personal service that is second to none.
television, guest bathroom and
wherever you fly to join the ship. There
canapés throughout the cruise – so the
Why book? In terms of layout and
Price From £12,799 per person for 12
is complimentary use of an iPad,
exercise bike on the landing (with sea
decor, this is luxury with a capital L.
nights in Asia in November, including
USP There is an array of extras at no
king-sized Suite Slumber beds with
views while you pedal) could be useful.
Price From £10,548 for 14 days in the
flights, private transfers, one night pre-
charge, from laundry, dry-cleaning
Egyptian cotton linens, as well as free
There is access to a private lounge and
Baltic in August, with flights and meals
cruise hotel stay, meals, drinks, Wi-fi and
and pressing to four hours of internet
use of the phone for 15 minutes and the
restaurant with single-seating dining, an
(0845 505 1920, oceaniacruises.com).
tips (0843 373 2000, seabourn.co.uk).
use, two hours of phone use and a daily
internet for 30 minutes. The butler
iPad with daily paper downloads, and
newspaper. The butler will also book
delivers a newspaper each morning
priority embarkation, disembarkation
one complimentary dinner for two at
and canapés each evening.
and luggage-delivery privileges.
Le Champagne, Silversea’s Relais
Why book? The master suite is an
Why book? It’s a perfect pad for
& Châteaux wine restaurant (usually
impressive, well laid-out place to stay
parties and there is private dining away
£20 a head, without wine).
with so much included that you really
from the crowds.
do feel privileged.
Price From £12,679 per person for
Price From £14,359 per person for 10
a seven-night transatlantic crossing
nights in the Baltic in July, including
from Southampton to New York in
flights, transfers, drinks, excursions, all
August, including a one-way economy
meals, tips and one-night pre-cruise
flight but excluding speciality dining
hotel stay (02380 682280, rssc.com).
(0843 374 0000, cunard.co.uk)
Ocean sounds The Owner’s Suite, with grand piano, on board the Marina, an Oceania Cruises ship
Why book? The little extras cost Silversea little but make you feel special. Price From £11,450 per person for a nine-night Mediterranean cruise in October, including drinks and tips, but excluding flights and speciality restaurants (0844 251 0837, silversea.com).
PUT THE EXCITEMENT BACK INTO TRAVEL JOIN THE LOYALTY PROGRAMME THAT OVER 3 MILLION MEMBERS ARE TALKING ABOUT AND DISCOVER OVER 330 UNIQUE HOTELS AND THEIR DESTINATIONS ACROSS THE GLOBE For further information visit gha.com
by global hotel alliance
â€˜I look forward to exploring Africa properly. Botswana, the Victoria Falls and Egypt would be top of my listâ€™
he tennis star Roger Federer,
currently ranked number two in the world, has his main home in his native Switzerland, but spends much of the year travelling with his wife, Mirka, and their two daughters. His charitable foundation funds the education of thousands of children in Africa. This month he will defend his seventh Wimbledon menâ€™s singles title. How many holidays do you take a year? Two or three. I have to ďŹ t holidays around tournaments, particularly the grand slams, in Melbourne, Paris, London and New York. Do you take your family to tournaments? For now, yes. My twin daughters, Charlene and Myla, are only three, so we still travel as a family, which will change when they start school. What is your favourite city? Rome. I am a sucker for those old traditional places, and Rome is as good as it gets, particularly when you throw in Italian food. Last time I was there, I went on an open-top bus ride with my children, which was wonderful. You are admiring one beautiful old building, then you notice an even better one across the street. Your idea of a perfect holiday spot? ÂŠ CREDIT SUISSE
A place where I can get away from it all with my family and enjoy some peace and privacy. The last family holiday I took was in the Maldives, which ďŹ tted the bill perfectly â€“ it was the third time I had
TRAVELLING LIFE Roger Federer
The Swiss tennis star on the heat and skyscrapers of his second home, Dubai, his eye for fashion and touring with twins been. I think, if I did a non-physical ofďŹ ce job,
What else do you like about Dubai?
take me when I was a child. But I am looking
How does NYC compare to Wimbledon?
I would probably want to be a little bit more
Itâ€™s a fun place. All those skyscrapers are amazing.
forward to exploring the continent properly
There is so much to take in: shopping, theatres,
adventurous on holiday â€“ but, for now, I just
A few years ago, Andre Agassi and I played
when I have a bit more time on my hands. Top
restaurants, art galleries. I always feel super-happy
want to relax and feel the sand between my toes.
a game of tennis on the highest court in the
of my wish-list would probably be Botswana,
when I arrive, but not too unhappy when I leave.
Where else have you visited recently?
world, on the helipad of the Burj Al Arab hotel.
the Victoria Falls and Egypt.
What do you do when a big game is over?
Mauritius, the Seychelles, Thailand, the
I recently had breakfast on the 123rd ďŹ‚oor of the
Do you follow other sports while travelling?
Win or lose, I think it is important to thank the
Caribbeanâ€Ś As you can tell from that list, I like
Burj Khalifa, the worldâ€™s tallest building, in the
Wherever I am in the world, I take an interest in
people who have come to support me. My
beautiful places with quiet beaches.
middle of a thunderstorm. That was pretty cool.
sports with which the locals are obsessed.
entourage is much bigger than the one you see
Which Caribbean island?
Any favourite Dubai restaurants?
In Australia, I follow cricket, and in the United
in the playersâ€™ box â€“ there were 75 of us at last
I would rather not say.
La Petite Maison is fabulous. There are also some
States, I follow basketball and the NFL.
yearâ€™s French Open. So we will go out somewhere
So privacy is important to you?
great restaurants on the Palm, including Voi,
How about shopping?
together, probably to a nice restaurant. I hate
I donâ€™t mind fans coming up in a friendly,
which serves French-inďŹ‚uenced Vietnamese food.
If I go shopping for clothes, I am like most men â€“
those noisy nightclubs where you canâ€™t chat.
respectful way. Thatâ€™s all part of the fun of being
Where else in Asia appeals?
I donâ€™t hang about. I get what I am after â€“ say,
If you win, do you celebrate with a drink?
a top tennis player. But if people take pictures
So many places. It is an extraordinary part of the
a shirt, a pair of jeans and some trainers â€“ and Iâ€™m
Of course â€“ and these days, it tends to be
without permission, particularly if my children
world. I always enjoy trips to China. My tennis
done. I like to think I have a good, quick eye for
champagne. I have recently become the brand
are in the shot, I feel uncomfortable.
schedule involves regular events in Shanghai
fashion. Iâ€™ve outgrown the time when I did dumb
ambassador for MoĂŤt & Chandon, following in the
Where do you train between tournaments?
and Beijing, but the big cities are just a tiny part
things like dressing head to toe in white.
footsteps of Scarlett Johannson, which is quite
I use Dubai as my training base and own an
of the story. I have also been to India with Unicef,
Any favourite labels?
an honour. I feel part of a glamorous tradition.
apartment there â€“ I have been going since 2004.
which was an incredible experience, and I really
I recently bought a pair of Louis Vuitton shoes that
Have you visited the Champagne region?
In the winter, it offers the ideal climate for training.
enjoyed Japan. Further down the line, I would love
are the most comfortable I have ever owned.
MoĂŤt & Chandon took me on a tour of their
The heat can be intense â€“ I have known
to go to Vietnam and Cambodia.
Where do you stay during tournaments?
vineyards last year and I stayed at the ChĂ˘teau
temperatures as high as 48C â€“ but I donâ€™t mind.
How about Africa?
During Wimbledon, I rent a house in Wimbledon
de Saran near Epernay, where the company
It is also perfectly located for when I have to
Well, my mother is South African, but I havenâ€™t
Village, otherwise â€“ for example during the US
entertains VIPs. It was a wonderful experience.
travel to Australia or the Far East.
seen many other African countries â€“ she didnâ€™t
Open in New York â€“ I stay in city-centre hotels.
Interview by Max Davidson
The UncharTed edge of Paradise ViceroY MaLdiVes
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