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From SHEEP to SHOP SCABAL SPRING-SUMMER 2013 TRENDS

WHAT KIND OF MISTER ARE YOU ?

FRESH OPENING BRUSSELS FLAGSHIP STORE INTERVIEWS THIS IS SCABAL PIERCE BROSNAN THE PEACE CSÁKÁNY ISTVAN FUND Spring – Summer 2013 12th Edition

A SCA BA L initiAt iV e tO p rO mOt e A tA iLO r- m Ad e Li F eStYLe


Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back. Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguetteshaped movement.

www.corum.ch


We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact : Custom Regie, Thierry Magerman thierry@customregie.be or +32 (0)475 72 84 47 Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors. Bespoken is neither responsible for nor endorses the content of advertisements printed on its pages. Bespoken cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material. Editor Jérôme Stéfanski Publisher Gregor Thissen Project Coordinator Kristel Geets Styling Sylvain Gadeyne Graphic Design BaseDESIGN Writers Cécile de Forton James Drew Stephanie Duval Federico Grandesso Eric Musgrave Janet Prescott Jérôme Stéfanski Proofreading james drew & colin moors ReadRight.be

Photographers Luk Vander Plaetse Quentin Caffier Stephen Papandropoulos Ronald Stoops

E DITORIA L CO MMEN T

From Sheep to Shop : Today and tomorrow

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ear reader, We are very proud to be able to present a new twist to the history of our company. The famous slogan ‘From Sheep to Shop’ has new meaning from now on – even though we have served customers in our Savile Row store for many years, it is only since last year that we began a more systematic approach to selling ‘retail’. Indeed, the opening of our first flagship ‘new style’ store in Brussels (September 2012) and Beijing (December 2012) mark the beginning of a new strategic orientation. With enlarged ranges, including a complete new selection of accessories and a carefully crafted shop design, we are striving to get closer to our customers in a contemporary yet traditionally British environment. Our aim is to gain a better understanding of the Scabal customer of today and tomorrow – knowledge that we will use for the development of our wholesale and retail activities. A truly inspirational project for our whole organization.

Obviously, ‘From Sheep to Shop’ cannot just be about retail, so in our latest edition, you will find many interesting articles about what really makes a great suit…namely, great fabrics. It is very important to us not that we do not forget our origins, and we never will. Creating fabrics remains at the very heart of our enterprise, and we are happy to share our knowledge with our readers. Even though new ventures are taking up much of our time and energy at present, we still believe that it is important to consider others less fortunate than ourselves. In this spirit, we have launched the Peace Fund, a corporate social responsibility project that aims to support the highly regarded NGO Médecins Sans Frontières/Doctors Without Borders in bringing aid and assistance to the world’s most devastated regions. You will find out more in the magazine. Many thanks for your loyal interest and your continued support. We wish you happy reading.

Peter & Gregor Thissen

SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B–1000 Brussels Belgium Phone : + 32 (0)2 217 98 49

‘We still believe that it is important to consider others less fortunate than ourselves.’

www.scabal.com Do you have any suggestions or feedback ? Let us know at www.bespoken.com Read Bespoken on your iPad : www.bespoken.com/ipad

Gregor Thissen, Scabal CEO

Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper.

Scabal CEO Gregor Thissen and his father Group Chairman J. Peter Thissen  © Scabal

This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at  Bespoken.com 1


contents 4 sca bal in fi gures

75 6 TEM PTATIO N S

Toys for boys 8 Spring-Summer 20 13 trends

WHAT kind of Mister are you ? 20 Style Icon

His name was’ Bond 23 SCABAL AC ROSS TH E WOR L D

NEWS

FROM SHEEP TO SHOP

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ENGAGED SEWING ROOM 50

FRENCH CONNECTION 52

DRESS IN PEACE

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Wool : 10,000 years new

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LEATHER AFFAIR

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56

LINEN

GENTLEMAN’S WEEKEND

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FOR THE WOOL’S SAKE

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Individual style as a nation symbol

38 24 Spring-Summer 20 13 st y le adv ices

Keep it well-made and appealing

Made with pride in Saarbrücken, Germany

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OPENING PARTY ! 62

BEHIND THE FAMOUS CIFONELLI’S SHOULDER

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FRESH OPENING ! 2

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SCABAL WORLDWIDE


sca bal in figures

75 The number of years that Scabal has been in business By Jérôme Stéfanski

From 1938 to 2013 — 75 years of passion for timeless elegance and classic clothing. In 2013, Scabal celebrates this special anniversary with birthday events and limited product editions, but the greatest project is the launch of the very first book to be completely dedicated to Scabal’s heritage. In English, with 192 pages of text and pictures, this fine tome has been written by fashion journalist Veerle Windels, who has covered the brand’s story from a small local fabrics merchant to an international company selling its products in more than 65 countries. This year will be very important for Scabal, which will soon move its Brussels headquarters to where its warehouse and fabrics stock were initially established. After more than two years of work, the brandnew building will be ready to host all of the various departments that make up Scabal HQ — Bespoken will keep you posted.

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1938–2013 : 30 years devoted to clothing © Scabal

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T E MPTATIONS

Toys for boys Even the most serious gentlemen have something from their childhood that can slip into their mind and soul. Bespoken celebrates this ‘big-boy attitude’ and gives you the opportunity to express it in style.

Rock me baby !

Flying underwater

By Jérôme Stéfanski

Green Boxx

Boxx is the name given to this new emissionsfree all-electric vehicle. This ‘one metre machine’ has been designed as a primary transportation device or an accessory to your car. Versatile, portable and fully constructed from aluminium, this new bike can reach 60 km/h, with a range of 130 kilometres. Charge it with your standard wall outlet or pedal – you can even personalize the monocoque design, choosing from a large range of solvent-free colours. Price : 3,095€, www.boxxcorp.com

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Now with Subwing, you can experience the sensation of flying underwater. This new water sport entirely reinvents exploring the ocean, with virtually full freedom of movement. Glide through the water like a dolphin, do thrilling spins and turns, or just relax on the surface. You French design furniture company Domeau et can easily control the movement of the tool Pérès has recently crafted this luxury football by tilting the wings in the direction you want table in association with artist Fabien Verschaere. to go – produced in carbon, the Subwing must Based on the B90 model developed by ‘baby foot’ be attached to a boat with a recommended rope leader Bonzini, this is handmade from alumin- length of around 15 metres and a speed of around ium and beech wood and covered with genuine 2 knots. The only other equipment needed is bull leather. Each football table is unique, signed a diving mask. You can even add a camera for and only available on demand. Before ordering, timeless memories of your underwater trip – the lucky owner is invited to answer to a ‘Proust’ guaranteed sensational ! questionnaire, in order to identify his deeper Price : 750€ personality. According to the result of the quiz, www.subwing.com the artist will draw designs, monsters and other creatures directly on the leather cover using felt pens. His inspiration comes from the world of the circus, from fairy tales and from comic strips – the art of Verschaere comes from the mass culture that influences his artistic expression. Price : 26,000€ www.domeauperes.com


Noble game

and diamonds as well as other gems, as well as the finest precious woods. Every Noblekey is provided with certificates of authenticity and material and has a unique identification number. To create your individual key, the company only needs one of your original car keys – the old plastic casing is removed with surgical precision and replaced by your new edition, without any changes in the function or structure – an ordinary technical device is thus transformed into an individual, functional gem. Last question – are you ready to give up your car key ? Prices from 5,000€ www.nobelkey.de

Lancelot Lancaster White is a London-based company specialized in the production of the finest luxury poker-chips boxes. Combining traditional skills with modern technology, the focus is on the uncompromising standards of craftsmanship drawn from centuries of knowledge passed down from father to son. Each component is designed and meticulously hand crafted in England to be aesthetically pleasing, functionally tactile and durable. Handmade and requiring numerous specialist skills, each box can take between two to six months to complete. Materials are drawn from many sources including rare and ancient components as well as exotic timbers, precious metals and precious stones. Price : 25,000€ Valgrine offers the best in putters, thanks to its www.lancelotlancasterwhite.com mix of master craftsmanship and controlled conception of high technology. Made in France, in the cradle of metallurgical excellence, these putters are aerodynamic sculptures. The putters inaugurate new game sensations and provide real benefits at a very high level, mixing performance, precision, tolerance, playability and control. They are exceptional pieces, designed to exceed your expectations – an ideal centre of gravity, management of mass, anti-vibratory carbon, technological materials with memory, controlled inertia. Available in limited editions, customizable or completely custom-made. Only by appointment : availability four to eight months. Custom-made putter from 20,000€ www.valgrine.com

The best, or nothing

Key to success ?

Based on the (correct ?) principle that the symbolic value of a car key has been underestimated up to now, Noblekey offers the possibility of creating the finest car, yacht and private jet bespoke keys. Hand-made in Germany, each of the keys can be customized with different materials combinations as well as specialized processing techniques. Only the finest materials are used, such as sterling silver, gold, platinum

Video games

Luxury trunk specialist Pinel & Pinel has recently launched an XXL version of its Arcade Trunk. Practical and hyper-equipped, this is a true technology cocktail – full HD 3D LED at 55’’, a PlayStation 3 console with 14 games included, buzzers, microphones, movement detectors, 3D glasses, iPhone/iPod dock, and 1,800 watt sound speakers ! You can personalize your arcade console, selecting one of the 51 colours available, with rare cover materials such as genuine leather, crocodile, sharkskin, ostrich, nickel palladium, brass carbon, and gold or silver steel. Price : 67,000€ www.pineletpinel.com

Quadski

This is the new fancy hybrid vehicle assembled in New Zealand by Gibbs. Using a high-performance BMW engine, this ‘amphiquad’ reaches speeds of 75km/h on both land and water and can move between the two modes in seconds. At the press of a button, the Quadski’s wheels retract after entering the water and deploy when approaching land. Unmatched freedom on land and water – Quadski sets a new standard in flexibility, freedom and fun. James Bond would be jealous ! Price : 35,000€ www.gibbssports.com 7


S p r i n g -Summer 2013 t re n ds

WHAT kind of Mister are you ? At Scabal, ‘made-tomeasure’ is always about achieving the correct combination of comfort and self-expression. Our new ‘Summer Gentlemen’ unveil their personality through the fabrics they choose to create their customized outfits. What about you ?

Photographer Ronald Stoops Art Direction Pierre Daras for BaseDesign Styling Sylvain Gadeyne, Olivier Vander Slock and Pierre Daras for BaseDesign Text Jasmine De Bruycker for BaseDesign Coordination Kristel Geets Clothes, fabrics and accessories Scabal

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Mr . Tactful AND Fabric Nº 703369

As far as style is concerned, Mr. Tactful is a natural. He has a fine-tuned fascination with classic films, and the clothes worn by those legends of style. His eye for elegance with an excellent price-quality ratio spotted Fabric Nº 703369 right away. This superfine Merino cloth from Scabal’s Image collection has a chic Mediterranean touch, a smooth handle and comes in a wide range of original designs. Its prunelle twill construction is very durable, but also gives the cloth a lustrous drape and a pleasantly cool feel. Rare is the combination of the twill weave and the cloth’s contemporary big check pattern, a true craftsman achievement. With his luxurious appearance and refined cinematic manners, Mr. Tactful’s company is definitely the one to join this summer.

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Fabric Nº 801792

Mr. Good Times savours life. He loves observing the hours, not the cars. A sun-drenched afternoon coffee in good company is everything he wishes for. And if possible, a jacket that feels as comfortable as his mood when catching up with an old college friend. Scabal’s leisure Riviera collection seems to be cut out for him. It offers an eclectic choice of qualities, from pure linen such as fabric Nº 801792, to summery cottons mixed with linen or silk. All Riviera qualities are available in a wide range of designs, from plains to honeycomb or twill weaves. As Mr. Good Times thinks haste makes waste, no less in life than in choosing the right outfit, this flexible summer collection will keep him happy for quite a while.

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AND

Mr . Good Times


Mr . Versatile


AND

Fabric Nº 801758

Dressing, above all, is the highest art for Mr. Versatile. Always impeccable in yet another newly found outfit, Mr. Versatile loves to combine the best materials to hand. But don’t take him for an overdressed Beau Brummell. Mr. Versatile believes that modesty is the citadel of beauty. Scabal’s refined Rhapsody collection is therefore music to his ears. This wide range of superfine Merino qualities is designed and coloured in a subtle way. Take fabric Nº 801758, a plain grey basket weave with a modern rustic flair, to wear elegantly at Sunday brunches ; or go for a more formal design to hold your summer business meetings. All Rhapsody designs are made from pure wool, in line with the back to nature trend. Their airiness, natural look and crease resistance ensure that Mr. Versatile will never show up unprepared, whatever the occasion.

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Fabric Nº 752502

Mr. Bona Fide is a natural-born leader. Full of wit, this global thinker is the boss you have always dreamed of. Constantly being one step ahead, Mr. Bona Fide has met his match in Fabric Nº 752502. This exciting new Super 140’s quality from Scabal’s Triumph collection blends superior wool and premium cashmere in an innovative way. The cloth’s featherweight and soft feel vouch for a true summer success. A tailor’s triumph is its balanced two-ply yarn construction, creating a wonderful handle rare for such a fine cloth. The additional lustrous press finish turns every Triumph suit into a luxury item, and Mr. Bona Fide into the boss of bosses.

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AND

Mr . Bona Fide


Mr . Daredevil

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AND

Fabric Nº 852205

Mr. Daredevil is a true entrepreneur. He is a warrior, not a worrier. Life has no ceiling, and the same goes for his outfits. Mr. Daredevil always looks effortlessly stylish and dangerously charismatic. His secret is the range of mixed cloth qualities from Scabal’s prestigious Lagoon collection, that includes a mix of premium wool, silk, or linen, each offering a unique blend of two different worlds. Fabric Nº852205 for example is a blend of natural linen and luxurious silk. Combining casual and chic, this quality is a smarter alternative to traditional linen. Its mixed appearance intrigues, ennobles, and has the power to turn any man into a true-blue Mr. Daredevil.

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Fabric Nº 703288

With a suitcase full of ambition, Mr. Transatlantic is always en route to a new success. Call it plain luck, a favourable genetic passport or a talent for good timing, but everything just seems to fall into his lap. To complement his fine leather Scabal shoes, handcrafted bag and raincoat, Mr. Transatlantic has set his mind on Scabal’s new summer fabric Nº 703288. Made from superfine Australian Merino wool, this Super 120’s quality of barely 240 grams is both durable and breathable. Its new, two-ply yarn construction makes the fabric more crease-resistant, just perfect for daily use and excellent for travelling. The fabric’s plain weave gives every suit a clean cut and light appearance, while preserving its shape. With its wide range of designs, refined look and practical assets, this fabric quality from the Silver Cloud collection is the right choice for modern, classy businessmen on the move.

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AND

Mr . Transatlantic


Style I con

His name was Bond We had the chance to meet actor Pierce Brosnan at the most recent edition of the Mostra di Venezia film festival. Brosnan, who has always been an aficionado of fine fabrics, is a modern gentleman who is considered as a timeless icon of male elegance. By Federico Grandesso

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The

new Bond film, Goldfinger (1964), was showing in cinemas and a certain 11-year-old Irish boy couldn’t wait to see it. Pierce was accompanied by the new husband, William Carmichael, of his mother and this was the beginning of the story of an actor who was destined to be a movie and fashion icon.

Irish roots Born in Navan, County Meath, Ireland on 16 May 1953, he soon left his job to become an actor, and entered the Drama Centre in London where he studied acting for three years. After some years of stage work throughout the UK, he began to work in television and film in 1981, when he was asked to join the ABC-TV mini-series The Manions of America. This important turning point led him to landing the title role in the popular long-running detective series Remington Steele, which debuted in 1982. He moved with his family to Los Angeles to film the series – after four seasons and 92 episodes, Pierce’s name started to shine in the US. But the great occasion came when Pierce met with James Bond producer Albert R. Broccoli on the sets of For Your Eyes Only because his first wife, Cassandra Harris, was in the cast. Pierce then had to wait a few years due to contractual problems but, finally, on 7 June 1994, he was announced as the fifth actor to play Bond. He signed for a three-film Bond deal with the option of a fourth. The first, 1995’s GoldenEye, grossed US $350 million worldwide, the fourthhighest worldwide gross of any film in 1995, making it the most successful Bond film since Moonraker (1979). In 2002, his fourth and final time as Bond in Die Another Day, was also a huge box-office success. Where a myth is born For Pierce, Bond was a chance to create a myth of image not only in cinema but also in fashion, in a period in which made-to-measure haute couture was more successful and recognizable in cinema. The suits became a second skin for Bond and Pierce, as he discovered the creations of Brioni designer Lindy Hemming, made using Scabal fabrics. The work on the details was enormous and, in the end, Lindy slightly lowered the button stance from their usual height, creating a more relaxed and modern look for Brosnan. Pierce’s Brioni suits do not go to any extreme fashion lengths – his printed ties in GoldenEye are what now look most dated, as he mostly wore three-button suits, a classic style that saw a resurgence of popularity in the 1990s. By the time of The World is Not Enough (1999), only a trace of these fashion trends still existed, 21


S

cabal fabric has been used in many blockbusters including The Wolf of Wall Street, Casino Royale, The Tailor of Panama, The Aviator, Titanic, Casino, Men In Black, The Untouchables, Apollo 13, Batman Forever and Batman Returns, Dracula, Get Shorty, GoldenEye, The Addams Family and The Firm. Scabal also provided fabrics for Wall Street I and II, The Mob and all the Godfather films. In 2001, when director John Boorman was working on The Tailor of Panama, he asked Scabal not only to provide fabrics for Pierce Brosnan and Geoffrey Rush, but also for information about the daily life of a tailor : “The action in this spy film takes place in the tailor’s world. We supplied them with information about the daily routines in a tailor’s workshop as well as props such as a sewing machine, scissors, tape-measures and rules, many fabrics and some collections of sample books in order to confer a maximum of authenticity to the decoration,” Scabal’s US agent explains.

Pierce Brosnan and Geoffrey Rush selecting fabrics from Scabal’s bunch in The Tailor of Panama, 2001

and the film featured some of the most timeless suits of the series. For Die Another Day in 2002, the look was modernized with a closer fit and higher button stance on a two-button jacket, but not to the extreme that became popular a few years later. A high button stance lengthens one’s legs to increase the appearance of height, as long as the trousers worn with the jacket have a high rise to match. But Brosnan’s increasing waistline was not flattered by the higher button stance (and strained fit) – he would have looked better keeping the suits that he wore during the 1990s. Pierce’s first wife, Australian actress Cassandra Harris (who died in 1991), was a ‘Bond girl’ herself, portraying Countess Lisl in For Your Eyes Only (1981). She was previously married to Dermot Harris, brother of the actor Richard Harris. There is a whale-watching station dedicated to her in Malibu Bluffs Park (California). He has three children with Cassandra – Sean (born 1983) and stepchildren Charlotte (born 1971) and Christopher (born 1972) – and two sons, Dylan Thomas (born 1997) and Paris Beckett 22

(born 2001) with his second wife, former TV correspondent/soap actress Keely Shaye Smith, whom he married in August 2001. He has two grandchildren, Charlotte’s daughter Isabelle Sophie (born 1998) and son Lucas (born 2005). EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW There are two movies in which you interpret a character that was very different from James Bond : Mamma Mia and the recent All You Need is Love. Are they following the same line ? There are some similarities between Mamma Mia and All You Need Is Love, they are both about love, families and weddings but these movies have a bite that is much more real if we look at our own times. Then, as a father of four sons, I know something about bringing up young men and I loved this sense about the character that I played, the separation of their hearts and the tragedy that touched this man and his son. The movie for me is about hope and faith so to go on talking about myself, my character and the son…there is no reason for that, because the film tells it all and I think that you understand that the father has given of himself to the son and it’s all about trust. All You Need is Love shows a very intimate part of you in comparison with Bond. The story of the movie in this particular case was so much like my own life in many ways – having lost my first wife to cancer, I knew something about the grief of life and the protagonist of this film, Philip, has lost his wife tragically. So there was that element that I could understand, then Philip and I were both in the middle of our lives so there were many emblems within the story that appealed to me and with which I could identify. It’s a huge celebration of love and romance. Then, you try not to act too much, and I had Suzanne (Bier) who guided me through the process ; I never asked why I got the job, but I know in my heart how I got it and why. After that, I had this incredible company of actors who just welcomed me and made me feel at home. How do you see your acting at this stage in your career ? Any new projects ? There are difficulties, acting is sometimes easy and sometimes difficult but also when it seems easy you can make it difficult for yourself. So it has a certain complexity, but I love to act and I was taught in a way that I could play many roles and then you find yourself playing the same role sometimes over and over again, but in the final analysis I simply like to work. Then 007 really launched my career, even though I would underline that I worked since I was 18 and acting

is my passion – even without Bond, I was busy in many other projects. In any case, Bond will always follow me. I’m busy with my next movie, A Long Way Down, which is a novel by Nick Hornby, in which I interpret the role of a TV anchorman who starts dating a 16-year-old girl, so this is a new challenge for me. Then I have another project for a spy movie, which will be called November Man.

‘In any case, Bond will always follow me.’ Pierce Brosnan


sCA bA L AC ROss TH E WO RL D

neWs

Bamboo as a natural resource

Wives of Windsor and scenes from Henry IV. It is Verdi’s last opera, written in the composer’s ninth decade, and only the second of his 26 operas to be a comedy. It is also the third of Verdi’s operas to be based on a Shakespearean play, following his earlier Macbeth and Otello. www.teatroallascala.org

Father and sons

Recently, Scabal has provided bamboo fabrics to the UK premium entertainment TV channel Sky 1, for The People’s Rainforest programme. In two one-hour shows, the programme highlighted the secrets of the rainforest, its natural resources and how they are used in our daily lives. In partnership with WWF, the campaign aims to preserve around three million hectares from deforestation by making the rainforest worth more to the local community. Bamboo is a natural fibre that is used by Scabal to create breathable summer fabrics. Sky1.sky.com

Scabal sponsored the recent edition of Rallye Pères-Fils, a French family old-time and modern GT rally. Father and sons had the chance to drive between Deauville and Etretat. Together they enjoyed the seaside roads of the wonderful Normandy region. Rendez-vous in September 2013 for the next edition of this classic and elegant race. www.happyfewracing.com

This is Africa

If you already knew Paul, now you would have to discover another M. Smith : Richard. Manchester-based tailor Richard Smith has founded his own label, and creates bespoke garments using cloth from the leading British mills. Young and dynamic, Smith is above all passionate about design, timeless elegance and craftsmanship. At the recent New York Fashion Week, he has presented his new Spring-Summer 2013 ready-to-wear collection. According to him : “It was the most amazing experience of my life.” He used Scabal fabrics for the majority of the collection.” www.richardsmithbespoke.co.uk

Young dandy Scabal has just found one of its youngest fans in Germany  ! Léopold is only eight years old and already a bespoke tailoring addict. On this picture he sent to Scabal headquarters Brussels, he proudly wears both a made-to-measure jacket and shirt with Scabal cufflinks. So cute. www.scabal.com

Mr President

Falstaff The famous Teatro alla Scala in Milan, which is considered one of the world’s finest opera venues, has recently ordered several Scabal cloths for the new season of Falstaff. Among the fabrics selected were fine winter fabrics such as pure wool, worsted cashmere, cotton corduroy and even camel hair for overcoats. Falstaff is an operatic commedia lirica in three acts by Giuseppe Verdi, adapted by Arrigo Boito from Shakespeare’s plays The Merry

From Manchester to New York

The Maison de Couture Okasol offers traditional bespoke tailoring and ready-to-wear outfits in Kinshasa, Democratic Republic of the Congo. At the occasion of the Fourteenth edition of the Sommet de la Francophonie, Okasol has provided several made-to-measure suits to major African heads of states and has workshops dedicated to bespoke tailoring creation process. Light summer fabrics from Scabal’s collection has been presented. This international summit held in Kinshasa, has grouped political leaders from countries that share French as a common language. www.francophoniekinshasa2012.cd

Since August 2012, Danilo Medina is the new President of the Dominican Republic. He was born in the southwest of the Dominican Republic and the oldest of eight brothers. At early age he was involved in politics and in the 1990s he became a key figure in negotiations. Medina has been a long time customer of La Coruna, Scabal’s prestigious retailer in Santo Domingo and the owners (left and right in this picture) Roberto and Antonio Iglesias are proud to dress the president in Scabal. www.scabal.com 23


Sprin g-Summer 2013 st yle adv ices

Keep it well-made and appealing In February 2013 the Chinese Year of the Snake begins. People born under the sign of the snake are said to be refined, intuitive and enigmatic, all terms that could be applied to elements of Scabal’s new ranges for Spring-Summer 2013. By Eric Musgrave

W

ith customers in more than 65 countries around the world, Scabal can be relied upon to provide luxurious options for most of the wardrobe requirements for the discerning dresser. The more things change, the more they stay the same. Spring-Summer 2013 will not witness any great shift in stylistic direction for menswear. What will continue to be important, and indeed will become more important than ever, will be an emphasis on high-quality, well-made, wellthought-out and versatile garments. The weaving technicians, fabric designers, clothing designers and accessory stylists at Scabal have combined their vast experience, skills and their knowledge of consumer requirements across the world to create cloth qualities, garments and accessories that both look very good and also perform to new levels appropriate to the lifestyles of modern men. Elegant refinement is one of the hallmarks of a Scabal cloth but there is no shortage of colour in the new season’s selection, particularly when jackets, blazers and trousers are being considered.

A passion for (summer) cloth Lagoon Three noble fibres are combined in Scabal’s colourful jacketing bunch Lagoon. Fine Merino wool, silk and linen have been expertly blended together in a 40 :35 :25 mix for part of the Lagoon 24

lagoon Collection

© Scabal


selection. A 55 :45 linen/silk quality is an alternative in this lively yet elegant, selection of cloths specially created for the concept of “luxury casual”. Unlined and softly tailored jackets will look superb in designs from Lagoon. Pink, light blue and beige are important highlight colours in a range that begins with semi-plains and herringbones and runs through to Glen checks, lots of windowpanes and even some madras-style checks. In total, Lagoon includes 21 variations. Triumph The Triumph suitings collection from Scabal is brand new and its advanced technical properties result in outstanding and memorable cloths. Markets around the world will appreciate the innovative blend of high-grade wool and premium cashmere in a scintillating Super 140’s quality. The 90 :10 mix results in a featherweight 250gm cloth that has a very soft handle and a lustrous finish. The 25 designs concentrate on the always-popular semi-classics such as pickand-picks. The colour palette is refined, with mid greys, light greys, light beige and pale blue, while use of colour, notably shades of blue, is always restrained and subtle.

Concerto A new addition to Scabal’s range, Concerto is a lightweight 240gm Super 150’s twill which will be perfect for suits, trousers and blazers. The 26 articles are in plain designs only, but the colour choice is extensive, extending from very light beiges that are ideal for suits to vivid blues designed with bold summer blazers in mind. This range is likely to find favour in many of Scabal’s varied markets around the world.

LET’S TALK ABOUT STYLE

As ever, the international catwalk shows for Spring-Summer 2013 were filled with all sorts of trendy ideas for menswear. Too many of them, sadly, give the impression that the designers are trying too hard to do something different when they should be making only subtle, tasteful changes to the tried-and-tested menswear staples. Scabal’s route is more sensible. It has grouped its themes for the new season around colour stories, for colour is one of the ways in which men can introduce a fresh approach to a familiar outfit. One of the most popular combinations for national flags is red, white and blue and the versatility of this tricolour approach is seen in Scabal’s ready-to-wear collections. One of the strong movements in menswear sees the blurring of conventions, so that colours once known for casualwear find their way into suits Zenith The zenith is the highest point attained by a and tailored jackets and trousers. Conversely, celestial body and Scabal has reached new patterns that once were recognised as suitings heights with its collection of exceptional suitings. are being embraced in leisure time clothes. Building on the popularity of the Zenith bunch At its simplest and most graphic, the tricolour introduced two years ago, the 34 new designs for styling can be seen in a red polo shirt (trimmed Spring/Summer 2013 are Super 180’s that add with a thin white piping) worn with trousers of a vital 2% cashmere to 98% fine merino wool. The solid blue. This colour blocking approach works result is a range of highly refined and expensive well as it allows a man to be as bold as he likes to cloths that will appeal to international connois- be with his mixing and matching. The bright red seurs of suitings. In keeping with the refined shirt also looks fine with a more standard and nature of Zenith, patterns are elegant, including subdued khaki chino. A solid or nearly solid red fancy pick-and-picks with stripes, medium blue looks excellent for a sport jacket. Next season will shades and dark stripes. The central construction be about putting together clever items to build of the range is a highly versatile fine twill. a personal image.

Silver Cloud The legendary Silver Cloud was the core model of the Rolls-Royce Motor Cars range from 1955 to 1966. The blend of elegant looks and high performance of those classic cars is mirrored in Scabal’s new Silver Cloud bunch. Its new two-ply construction means the Super 120’s quality of barely 240gms offers greater crease resistance, durable and breathable, making it ideal for international travellers. There are 53 qualities in this comprehensive suitings selection, running from light shades of on-trend browns, beiges and blues through subtle checks and false plains, and on to reverse-twist shadow stripes. Technically advanced and elegant in appearance, Silver Cloud will always perform well.

Red, white and blue is also seen in sophisticated checks for suits. The combination refreshes the now familiar Glenchecks and large Overchecks, which have been gaining in popularity for several seasons. Once again, stripes are not being seen very often ; false plains or very subtle patterns are the alternative to the bolder designs. To a certain extent, this story has echoes of a preppy, even Ivy League, look Running throughout Scabal’s tailoring for Spring-Summer 2013 is the emphasis on soft construction and bespoke-inspired details, such as patterned undercollars, bright linings and subtle contrast stitching. The soft make of the garments is all important – it reflects the high technical skill of Scabal’s tailoring unit in Germany and the sophistication of the cloths themselves. There is an overwhelming sense of class about the second story, Swedish Grey, which echoes many of the directions seen among the top international designer names, especially those from Italy. Grey suits for men can be boring, as we know but next season’s take on this perennial favourite has much more of a metallic feel, with shades ranging from pewter and lead to silver and to sheer white. Again picking up the idea of cross-referencing menswear, even in casual jackets, shirts, fine knitwear and casual trousers, grey shades look fresh and even sporty. The delicacy of the colours lends itself to micro-designs and there are lots of options of mini-checks, ginghams, tone-ontones and self-colour patterns (such as a pale grey windowpane on a darker grey ground). In its purest end of the spectrum, this colour story involves the confident use of bright, clean, white in items such as casual trousers and even a two-piece suit in cotton. Accessories in white also give a punchy counterpoint to the neutral greys. In direct contrast to the muted palette of Swedish Grey, Orange County sings out with bright citrus shades. Used alone, orange works best with dark or olive skin tones, but it is surprisingly adaptable and versatile when used in fine measure in, say, a busy multi-coloured check. It also has plenty of relevance in accessories, whether in suede moccasins, a boldly striped tie or an eye-catching pocket handkerchief. In this story, once again, checks are important, as are fancy herringbones, for the all-important softly tailored jackets. Solid orange looks surprisingly good in summer trousers and it works well with a strong contrast colour, such as navy blue, or a more tonal partner like light brown or beige. Summer 2012 saw a strong resurgence of double-breasted jackets and blazers in cottons and linens in particular. Like their single-breasted 25


Swedish Grey

Orange County

Red, White and Blue combination

Blue Desert

with some key designer names from both sides of the Atlantic, Scabal has some very stylish plain suits in shades such as beige and greyish brown. Ties, belts, even casual shoes in strong blues and mid-blues are wonderful foils for this palette, producing a very elegant, if slightly unconventional, outfit. The combination between browns and blues is attractively presented also in a number of checked jackets – as always with a slightly shorter length of about 75cms on a regular size 50 – and checked shirts. Ginghams, windowpanes, busy Glen checks, micro designs and false plains all have a role to play in this story and the confident dresser will be tempted to mix two, three or even four related patterns together in a single outfit. In a season of contrasts, two key trends are to have a very busy ensemble that mixes patterns and colours or to have a markedly single colour or tone-on-tone outfit. Even though it is the warmer season in most markets, the lightness of modern cloths means that even a three-piece suit can be worn. The waistcoat adds that note of having tried just a little harder in putting your outfit together and it demands the most luxurious accessories. A midbrown checked three-piece, for example, looks pin-sharp when complemented with accessories in different shades of blue. Blues of all shades work very well with that summer favourite, white. Whether it’s a pair of crisp, clean denim jeans worn with a white linen shirt, or a softly tailored blue windowpane checked two-button jacket with patch pockets teamed with some white slacks, this is an internationally popular combination. A final consideration for next spring is to mix textures and finishes. Seersucker-like jacket fabrics go well with smooth cotton trousers and piqué polo shirts. A mix of wool/linen/silk in a checked jacketing has surface interest that can be echoed in the texture of a belt or the suede of a loafer. As always in refined menswear, in Spring-Summer 2013 the difference will be in the details.

Scabal Spring-Summer 2013 four main colour themes © Scabal

or a piece of fine knitwear is all that’s need to be worn underneath. After grey, probably the most popular colour in most men’s wardrobe is blue. It offers a vast spectrum of interpretations, from a deep indigo to a pale watery sky blue. As Blue Desert, the fourth major colour story from Scabal, proves, blue complements many shades of brown very effectively as well as related options such as beige, khaki and olive green. At its most restrained, it is a very effective colour for accessories. Along 26

cousins, the modern double-breasted is close fitting, usually unlined or half-lined, and features sporty patch pockets or safari jacket-like flapped pockets, and boldly contrasting buttons. In common with the single-breasted styles, the double-breasted is cut slightly shorter to give a boxy look that complements well the slim and narrowing trouser silhouette. Spring-Summer 2013 is going to be a strong season for jackets again and sometimes they are so snugly tailored that wearing a shirt is inappropriate. A T-shirt

‘Running throughout Scabal’s tailoring for Spring–Summer 2013 is the emphasis on soft construction and bespoke-inspired details’


N US iPad BO d om /ipa .c n e B espok

‘Customization is not a joke, or a philosophy, or a psychology. If you put yourself in an environment that suits you [ personally ], then you’re going to have a better life — it’s as simple as that.’ Declaration made to the Financial Times by American-born Italian style guru Lapo Elkann – Fiat Automobile’s inheritor and grandson of Gianni Agnelli.

Find your local retailer at : www.scabal.com/store

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SPECI A L FE ATUR E

FROM SHEEP TO SHOP 29

FRESH OPENING ! 48

ENGAGED SEWING ROOM 50

FRENCH CONNECTION 52

DRESS IN PEACE 54

LEATHER AFFAIR 56

GENTLEMAN’S WEEKEND 58

Individual style as a nation symbol

Wool : 10,000 years new

60

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62

LINEN

BEHIND THE FAMOUS CIFONELLI’S SHOULDER

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FOR THE WOOL’S SAKE 38

Made with pride in Saarbrücken, Germany 28

42

OPENING PARTY !


SPECIAL FE ATUR E : F RO M S H E E P TO S H OP

Wool : 10,000 years new

Merino SHEEP

As a natural introduction to this special ‘From Sheep to Shop’ feature, let’s take a look at wool, which is one of the most versatile, comfortable and attractive natural fibres known to man. By James Drew

It is difficult to imagine any other fibre that has woolly sheep may have begun around 6000 BC, given as much to mankind as wool has – for more with the earliest woven wool garments dated than 10,000 years, the shorn fleece of sheep has to 2-3,000 years later. Woolly-sheep were introprovided humans with comfort, life-saving duced into Europe from the Near East in the early warmth and chic fashion, but there is so much part of 4000 BC. Before shears were invented more to the fibre. – which was probably in the Iron Age – the wool was plucked by hand or with bronze combs. In Roman times, wool, linen, and leather clothed History the European population ; the cotton of India First, a brief history lesson – although sheep was a curiosity that only naturalists had heard were first domesticated around nine to eleven of, while silk, which was imported along the ‘Silk thousand years ago, archaeological evidence Road’ from China, was an extravagant luxury. found at sites in Iran suggests that selection for Pliny the Elder records in his Natural History 29


production of other commodities, in the case of sheep growers, to production of meat. Recently, in order to address wool-growers’ concerns, in December 2006, the General Assembly of the United Nations proclaimed 2009 as the International Year of Natural Fibres, to raise the profile of wool and other natural fibres. So, what are the qualities of the fibre that has ensured its prevalence throughout the history of man ? Well, today as yesterday, wool is the world’s leading natural fibre – its complex protein structure is responsible for its unique characteristics and properties, such as its exceptional resilience and elasticity, which simply cannot be matched by synthetic fibres.

Historic London interior of the House of Lords, showing the throne and Woolsack (namely a chair that is filled with wool)

that the reputation for producing the finest wool was enjoyed by Tarentum (Italy), where selective breeding had produced sheep with a superior fleece, but which required special care. By medieval times, the wool trade had developed into a serious business – in the 13th century, wool was the economic engine of the Low Countries and central Italy ; by the end of the following century, Italy predominated, though in the 16th century Italian production turned to silk. Both pre-industries were based on English raw wool exports – rivaled only by the sheepwalks of Castile (Spain), developed from the 15th century – which were a significant source of income to the English crown, which from 1275 imposed an export tax on wool called the Great Custom. The importance of wool to the English economy can be shown by the fact that since the 14th century, the presiding officer of the House of Lords has sat on the Woolsack, namely a chair that is filled with wool. Raw wool was baled and shipped from North Sea ports to the textile cities of Flanders – Belgium – notably Ypres and Ghent, where it was dyed and worked up as cloth. Around the time of the Black Death (1348-1350), English textile industries accounted for some 10% of English wool production ; the English textile trade grew during the 15th century, to the point where the export of wool was discouraged. After the Restoration, fine English woolens began to compete with silks in the international market, partly aided by the Navigation Acts – in 1699, the English crown forbade its American colonies to trade wool with anyone but England.

Properties and uses As far as clothing is concerned, wool’s qualities ensure its remarkable ‘double act’ of being a fibre that both retains heat (ensuring warmth and comfort in the cold) and ‘breathes’ naturally, which means that warmth in winter and coolness in summer are guaranteed for young and old. In addition, wool’s natural elasticity (the fibre can safely be extended by up to 30% without damage), coupled with its resilience, moisture absorption and unique flame retardant attributes make it a healthy and safe fibre for sport and work. And that is far from all – did you know, for example, that buildings equipped with wool interiors have improved fire safety and air quality ? This is because wool is naturally flame resistant, does not melt or drip, and emits far less smoke and toxic gases than any other commonly used fibre. It has also been proven that wool’s complex cell structure provides cleaner air in offices and homes for up to 30 years – following the installation of wool in five buildings in Germany that had formaldehyde concentrations in excess of the World Health Organisation’s recommended maximum, researchers recorded that the level had dropped significantly below 0.05 parts per million in just 24 hours. Wool also provides a good night’s sleep – recent studies have shown that, when sleeping under a woolen quilt, the heart rate is lower during the entire sleep period, which ensures a far better quality of rest.

Wool as a great natural fibre Unfortunately, due to decreasing demand caused by an increased use of today synthetic fibres, wool production is much less than what it has been historically. The collapse in the price of wool began in late 1966 with a 40% drop ; with occasional interruptions, the price has tended down. The result has been sharply reduced production and movement of resources into Lamb wool traditional shearing process in Australia © Jo for Countrylifeexperiment.com

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Wool varies from super fine Merino fibre, which is very similar to cashmere and which is increasingly popular in Scabal’s summer fabrics.

Wool fibres

How would you wear it ?

fibre determines its final use and value. Some 37% of world production is classed as fine wools, And wool can even help save lives other than 22% as medium and 41% as coarse. Two thirds by just keeping bodies warm – researchers at of the wool harvest is used in the manufacture the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology of garments, and around one third in carpets, school of fashion and textiles have discovered upholstery and rugs. Industrial uses of wool that a blend of wool and Kevlar, the synthetic accounts for around 5% of the total. As well as fibre that is widely used in body armour, is lighter, Merino, Scabal also uses vicuña, alpaca and camel cheaper and worked better in damp conditions wools for creating fine winter fabrics. And, in keeping with the modern world’s than Kevlar alone, which loses around 20% of its effectiveness when wet and therefore required environmentally conscious attitude, wool is an expensive waterproofing process – wool one of the most natural and renewable products increased the friction in a vest with 28–30 lay- available with the wool industry itself ensuring ers of fabric, to provide the same level of bullet high standards of animal welfare for more than 1 billion sheep worldwide. Wool products also resistance as 36 layers of Kevlar alone. require but a fraction of the energy needed to But what of the fabrics produced from wool, you may ask ? Well, without wool, Scabal could not have achieved its worldwide reputation for producing the very best fabrics. ‘From Sheep to Shop’ has always been central to the company’s ethos, which culminated recently with the opening of the brand’s own shop on one of Brussels’s most sophisticated shopping thoroughfares. Over the years, Scabal has insisted on using only the finest wool available, be it from handreared sheep near its United Kingdom-based West Yorkshire mill in Huddersfield, or from Australian Merino sheep wool. Wool varies from super fine Merino fibre, which is very similar to cashmere and which is increasingly popular in Scabal’s summer fabrics, to very coarse hairy wools. The diameter of the

produce a comparable man-made fibre, it has a low transportation footprint, as it can be shipped easily in bulk in its high-density form, is 100% biodegradable and can last for many hundreds of years – just look at carpets in stately homes by way of example. Perhaps most of all, though, wool simply feels so fine to wear – from suits, jackets, pullovers, coats, sportswear, skiwear, scarves, gloves, socks, hats, underwear, the range of woolen clothing available is limited only by fashion designers’ imagination. So, wear and use your wool with pride – today, as with all our yesterdays, it is the fabric of the future. More information about wool at : www.merino.com

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特别专 题 : 纯正羊毛制 品

亚麻 亚

麻源自一种多年生植物,这种植物 主要因为其富含纤维而被种植,而 亚麻就是利用它制成,它的果实可

以用来榨取亚麻籽油。亚麻是一种少见的欧 洲植物性纺织纤维,其特点是比棉花或羊毛 要长。

产量 全世界的亚麻年产量约为 200 万吨。最大的 产地有欧洲、中国和俄罗斯——西欧生产的 亚麻品质最好。

特点 •

亚麻是一种非常厚重的纤维

触感粗糙

这种纤维透气性良好且能够吸收水分

亚麻线通常参差不齐

细度 : 一般介于 15-18 微米之间

纤维长度 : 75-150 毫米

实际使用 亚麻是制作长裤、衬衫或休闲夹克衫的理想 之选,也是最适合在炎热和潮湿气候条件下 使用的面料。

S CA B A L 的爱尔兰亚麻 Scabal 所用的大部分亚麻都在爱尔兰都柏 林附近,按照令爱尔兰亚麻举世闻名的严 格 的 传 统 流 程 生 产。Scabal 所 用 的 多 种 面 料品种依然用旧式织布机织成,这种织布 机 不 可 能 生 产 宽 度 超 过 75 厘 米 的 面 料, 不像现代机器可以织出标准宽度达 150 厘米 的面料。这些古老的机器上织出的亚麻品质 稀有,质地更光滑。


特别专 题 : 纯正羊毛制 品

一切都为了羊毛 让我们来了解下 Scabal 的面料工厂 Bower Roebuck,这家工厂位于西约克郡的 huddersfield。 在那里,最好的羊毛被用来制造最上乘的面料。

作者 : Eric Musgrave Scabal 面料工厂附近的英国乡村 huddersfield。Scabal 生产的 Super 130’s 夹克衫和棉布裤 © Scabal 版权所有


约克郡 : 自然条件优越, 适合生产羊毛 流经北英格兰奔宁山的磨石、沙砾、岩石的 软水,天然适合洗涤羊毛。由于拥有充沛的 软水且当地绵羊数量众多,让布拉德福德和

格兰的繁荣昌盛建立在羊毛之上。 huddersfield 附近的城镇早在中世纪就成了 中世纪以来,技艺高超的纺织工人 羊毛布料生产中心。 利用手工织布机、羊毛和软水建

曾经以工人房屋为基地的手工织布机行业

立了一种经济模式,为大英帝国奠定了基础。 在十九世纪工业化,当时约克郡西区因其 从十四世纪到 2006 年,上议院(英国议会

羊毛特别是精纺布料品质卓越而举世闻名。

上院)的议会主席被称为大法官,他的座位 “英格兰制造”标签(通常在镶边中看到) 被称为“羊毛坐垫”,是一个塞满羊毛的大

是布料品质的象征,但是“huddersfield 制

坐垫(见第 30 页图片)。起初,议长的座

造”标志则被视为西装料的金牌标准。

位是一个羊毛包,象征着羊毛贸易创造的财

2002 年 7 月 31 日星期三,著名的奔宁山

富。2006 年以来,上议院的职责由上议院议

突 发 洪 水, 席 卷 了 Bower Roebuck 的 工 厂。

boWer 先生 和 roebuck 先生

长承担,且上议院议长仍然坐在羊毛坐垫上

这家工厂专为 Scabal 生产布料,它位于霍姆

履行公务。

弗斯 (holmfirth) 附近的纽米尔村 (New Mill), 十年前的灾难是该工厂悠久的纺织生产史上

现代纺织行业用语保留了这种悠久的传

距 huddersfield 以南数英里。所幸的是,在

最 严 重 的 挫 折。Bower 先 生 和 Roebuck 先

统。“精纺毛织物”一词是指用又细又长的

夏季强降雨导致大量洪水冲进卷闸门时,工 生 于 1899 年 在 霍 姆 弗 斯 成 立 了 Glendale

合股纱(而非粗羊毛替代品)编织而成的光

人都在享受夏日假期。工厂地下层被一米深

Mills,但是该地的布料生产至少有 500 年

滑的西装料,这种面料由诺福克郡的一个小

的洪水淹没。

历 史。20 世 纪 70 年 代 早 期 起, 该 公 司 就

村庄伍斯特德 (Worstead) 生产。这个偏僻的

“这完全是一场灾难。这是一场非常危险

成了 Scabal 集团的一部分。Bower Roebuck

乡村从 1300 年代变得异常繁荣,当时比利

的洪灾,水流湍急,幸运的是我们因为年假

在全世界拥有许多声名显赫的客户,Scabal

时法兰德斯的纺织工人在爱德华三世与法

而关闭了工厂。” Bower Roebuck 董事总经

的一些最上乘、最精细的布料,便是出自

兰 德 斯 的 菲 利 帕 (Philippa of hainault) 公 主

理 Ronald hall 回忆说,“尽管拥有百年历史

Bower Roebuck 之 手。 定 期 从 该 工 厂 购 买

(1314 年 – 1369 年)喜结连理后,应爱德华三 的大楼有四层,但是我们是一家组织有序、 布 料 的 品 牌 有 Tom ford、Prada、Belvest、 世(1312 年 – 1377 年)的要求来到该地。现 有效且现代化的纺织工厂,而且我们的所有

Burberry、Gucci、Ralph lauren、hermès、

存于上议院档案室的最古老的议会法案,是 生产活动都在地下层进行。纱线仓库里第二

Paul Smith 和 louis vuitton 等。

1497 年的“为诺福克郡的伍斯特德招收学徒

层货架上的所有产品都完好无损且未被洪水

hall 表示 :“ Scabal 的管理层很有远见,大

法 案 ” (Taking of apprentices for Worsteads

浸湿,但是最底层货架上的面料却变得面目 约在 40 年前就收购了 Glendale Mills。我们

in the County of Norfolk act)。

全非,无从辨识。”

尽管伍斯特德的名称变体被广泛使用,但

的大部分年产量都为 Scabal 生产的。 作为

这场灾难造成了数百万的损失,灾后恢复 集团的一部分,我们可以与我们的同事紧密

是 该 地 的 编 织 活 动 在 1800 年 代 末 期 消 失, 工作迅速展开。到 2002 年 12 月安装了 10 台 合作,推出全新品质。我们持续不断地与布 不过英国的一些其他地方延续了英国制造的

新织布机,到 2003 年 2 月,20 台德国制造 鲁塞尔的团队对话,并且可能是现代英国工

高品质编织品的光荣传统。虽然苏格兰因其

的 dornier PTv6S 剑杆织布机全部投入使用, 厂中独一无二的工厂,我们运作五台数据化

盛产羊毛布料特别是粗花呢布料而闻名遐迩, 取代了因洪灾损失的三代 dornier 机器、其 织布机进行采样。 尝试新想法是一个持续 但是现代精纺行业的中心却是约克郡西区。

他设备和存货。

过程。”


创新 激情… Scabal 和 Bower Roebuck 多年来一直是技术 创新公司。在行业基准 Super 100’s 建立后没 多久,Scabal 就成为首个推出 Super 120’s 品 质的布料供应商,而且是首家将细度提高到 Super 150’s 的公司。该公司也是首家制造出 “宝石”布料的公司,比如 Diamond Chip 和

从 Cowcliffe 看到的 huddersfield 工厂景象 (大约 1916 年) 位于远处左边烟囱林立之处的 Read holliday 工厂

Lapis Lazuli(在面料中加入少量珍贵矿物), 还开发出 Private Line 技术,可以将由小小 的字母构成的条纹编织到布料中。 Scabal 的另一个成就是由 Bower Roebuck

从奔宁山留下来的水带来极其纯净的水,非常适合洗涤羊毛, 尽现羊毛的天然柔软。

利用超细羊毛织成的巅峰 (Summit),其品质 令人赞叹,将奢华西装料推向卓越新巅峰。

经纱(与布料长度方向相同的线)和纬纱

“纺织业务瞬息万变。十年前还被视为顶

(从左到右的线)的交织是制造高品质面料

级品质,如今却被当作行业标准,” 在该行

的第一步。 编织好的布料必须经过处理或

业拥有近 40 年从业经验的苏格兰纺织行家

“加工”,Scabal 与西约克郡当地的专业公

Ronald hall 说,“但‘巅峰’是独一无二的,

是出类拔萃的成就,纤细而又带着华丽的光 泽,触感超柔。”

“纱线不是钢棒, 最好靠人眼进行检查”

“巅峰”是 Bower Roebuck 许多产品中唯

Ronald hall

司密切合作,完成这个重要且复杂的过程。

“就像我们做的许多工作一样,加工阶段在 过去 20 年里变得更加复杂了。我们使用在 精纺过程中纺成的高品质羊毛,令纤维保持

一一款将美观与性能、艺术与科学出色地融

平整且彼此平行。由于羊毛本身就具有光泽,

合在一起的产品。该工厂只采用最高贵的纤

布料自然也会反光,但是一些客户希望我们

维——美利奴羊毛、开士米羊绒、驼绒、马

减少光泽,其他客户尤其是远东客户,希望

海毛、丝绸、亚麻和棉花,这些都可以在应

度、其重量、使用单纱还是混纺纱、每英寸 西装料尽可能地反光或闪耀光泽,因此我们

有尽有的纱线仓库中找到。“由于客户希望

有多少针及其他更多,都要予以考虑。尽管 必须通过加工来增强自然品质。精炼或缩绒

我们能够快速做出反应,因此我们在工厂中

织布机被电脑控制且有内存,从而“记住” 曾是标准的布料加工技术,但现在,我们专

保存了大量的纱线,” hall 说,“不久前, 特定做工的设置,但是制造和生产优质布料 注于利用纳米技术为布料增添防污性或抗皱 我们可能会花上三个月来履行订单,但是如

还需要人类投入大量技能。Bower Roebuck 性等品质。即便采用的是相同的纱线及做工,

今在八周内交付产品并非不寻常。客户希望

的 75 名员工中有 45 名负责生产过程,4 名 通过运用不同的加工工艺,还是会给布料带

获得更多东西且速度更快,因为他们想要

是纺织品设计师。

为他们的客户呈现全新及创新产品。 Bower Roebuck 从事小批量花式布料生产业务。这

是我们的专长。” 标 准 的 一 匹 布( 被 称 为“ 一 块 布 ”) 有 65 米长。织布机宽 220 厘米,可生产水洗前

来不同的触感——又柔又软,或者易皱但干 爽。”

…以及 品质

为了在奢华布料业务中成为名副其实的重 要参与者,Bower Roebuck 放眼于行业的未 来,且继续投资培训下一代纺织专业人士, 这既是为了自身也是为了 Savile Clifford。后

宽度介于 170 厘米至 190 厘米之间、缩水后

者是一家于 2006 年成立的新公司,提供与

最终宽度为 150 厘米的布料。这种布料可用 “我们提供的是品质,因此我们在每个阶段

众不同但互补的面料系列。Savile Clifford 的

作著名品牌服装的内侧镶边,上面可附有客 都非常关注品质控制,” hall 说,“我们

销量对 Glendale Mills 工厂的产量、效率和盈

户的姓名以及布料及其纱线成分品质描述。

甚至对我们的缝补工进行培训,这些缝补工 检查并在必要时修补微小的瑕疵。我们所用

Scabal 的工厂拥有精良的现代织布机,可处 的材料都是天然的,可能会被损坏——纱线 理多达 28 种不同的交织纹理,远远超过行 不是钢棒,最好靠人眼进行检查。” 业标准 22 种。这让该公司能够设计更多复

Scabal 的多款上乘面料中最复杂、最精细的

杂而又华丽的图案。虽然 dornier 机器可以

布料是在 Glendale Mills 生产的。广受世界各

快速运作,但是该工厂更愿意在低于最大速

地男装行家赞赏的多种纺织品,都在西约克

度下运作这些机器,以确保高品质及做工一 郡乡村繁忙的工厂中细心地设计、编织、检 致。编织活动要素的变量非常多。纱线的细

36

查和完成。

利能力做出了重大贡献。


Scabal 面料制造过程

2

1

3

挑选天然纤维

设计

纺纱

面 料 设 计 师 Michael day 和他的英国同事 通过综合利用多种材 料、设计和颜色,制 造面料款式。他每年 都会设计两个系列 : 秋冬和春夏系列。每个系列约有 350 款全新

精心挑选美利奴羊毛、开士米羊绒、亚麻、

设计。从最初的设计创作到最终的面料生产, 棉花、驼绒、丝绸中最好的天然纤维。产地、 纤维经过洗、染、梳、整,然后纺成纱线以 细度、稀缺性及多用性等许多因素都对纤维

需要九个月的时间。

供编织。

的挑选有着影响。

4 卷绕

5 整经

6 穿综

卷绕是将纱线从线

整经是指制成基纱的

筒上转移到合适的包

过程,而其在织布上

装中的过程,在此期

的 走 向 为 从 上 到 下。

间可以清除纱线的瑕

从字面上看,经线和

疵,比如起毛、毛粒

纬线指的是被用来制

和 异 物 所 致 的 纱 节。 造成品织品的两种线。经线紧紧地沿着面料 纱线还被传送到张力装置,以控制纱线张力。 的纵向延伸,纬线则与经线交错编织,制成 穿综是指在齿轮/经纱进入织布机前,(经

各种图案。

纱)每一端都穿过综片的过程。

7 样品生产 

9 修改 

8 编织  编织是一种艺术和工

一旦发现面料参差不

艺,需要将两股用纤

齐,技术熟练的工人

维制成的线纱放到

会手工修改。

织布机上,用作经纬 线纱,织成布料。这 面料样品在窄幅织布机上生产。第一件成品

种布料可能朴实无华

将有助于面料设计师确定最终的面料特点和 (颜色单一或图案简单),也可能按最初的 设计。在样品获得认可后,再次重复第一步, 设计编织。 制造出最终布料。

11 验布

10 加工 

12 装运

加工是指编织完

验布是最后一步,这是

在全面检查布料品质

成 后, 为 了 改 善 成

为了确保布料的品质完

后,Bower Roebuck

品 面 料 的 外 观、 性

美。将面料放在卷布机

会将布料交付给位于

能 或“ 手 感 ”( 触

上,按照一套全面的品

布鲁塞尔的 Scabal 总

感 ), 对 布 料 进 行

质控制来检查细节。

的任何过程。

部, 该 面 料 与 其 他 5,000 种面料一起存放在该地。

37


特别专 题 : 纯正羊毛制 品

在德国 萨尔布吕肯制成,值得骄傲 从剪下羊毛制作被用来编织面料的纱线,到客户收到 Scabal 的定制西装,只需短短三周便可制成 套装。《Bespoken》将为您提供指南,带您游览位于德国、靠近法国边境的 Scabal 自营工厂。

作者 : Eric Musgrave

发明家埃利阿斯 • 霍威 (Elias howe) 于 1846 年在美国取得第一台工业 缝纫机专利后,工业化服装生产便

让人大伤脑筋。在一个半多世纪里,人们希 望生产美观漂亮且穿着舒适的服装,但这些 服装都在机械化系统内制作,并非出自能工 巧匠之手。自机器开始取代手工以来,人们 希望能够迅速地进行裁剪、缝制及将制作西 装或夹克衫的许多部件拼接在一起。 结果导致真正的定制裁剪成为目前只有超 级富豪才会问津的领域。大多数消费者寻找 的是那些提供适合他们的预算和个人喜好的 产品的零售品牌或成衣制造商。然而,越来 越多的人注意到量身定制的好处,而 Scabal 对此设定了一个高市场标准。

Scabal 工厂内部 © Scabal 版权所有

今天的消费者是幸运的,因为工业化生产 尔布吕肯的参观者发现生产线上产品多种多 是另一款适合在更温暖的天气条件下穿着的 历经 160 年或更长时间后,已达到不可思议

样,很少重复。Scabal 来自世界各地的所有

夹 克 衫, 它 采 用 Featherweight 面 料, 混 以

的水平。许多才华横溢的人士和数百万美元

定制订单,正是在这里由 160 名工人组成的

Super 150’s 美利奴羊毛和 15 % 的丝绸制成,

资金已被用于开发现代纺织和服装生产系统。 技艺精湛的团队生产。

透气性良好,仅重 160 克。在一家大型工厂

许多公司制作的服装,甚至是定制服装,均

Scabal Toison D’Or Super 150’s 中的精致商务

看见品种如此繁多的产品,即便算不上独一

能保持一致的卓越品质。一致性已成为一种

装,可能就挂在一件颜色亮丽的格纹夹克

无二,但实属罕见。

优点。世界上许多最高效的工厂能快速且高

衫旁边,这款夹克衫来自 Cortina 系列,采

效地生产成千上万件完全相同的服装,他们

用缩绒羊毛布料制成。 这件夹克衫的后面

对此引以为傲。 高效、个性 以及可靠的生产 但是大规模生产具有明显的缺点。千篇一律 几乎完全抹杀了任何意义上的个性或个人风 格。很难找到专注于个性而非一致性的高品 质、高效且可靠的工厂。位于德国西部边界 萨尔布吕肯(紧邻法国边境)的 Scabal 工厂, 便是这类为数不多的工厂之一。 该工厂的电脑控制系统每年生产近 40,000 件 个性产品(西装、夹克衫和大衣),还生产 约 6,000 条长裤和许多马甲。但是,来到萨

38

Scabal 的传统生产过程也被称为“定制”,将手工制作传统与数字现代化相结合 © Scabal 版权所有


Scabal 萨尔布吕肯工厂的线筒 © Scabal 版权所有

39


‘真不知道 Scabal 是怎么做到这一点的。’”

工裁剪工艺,可再现各个阶段的男士。 对

正如上文所示,当今许多服装制造商竭力 于每件服装,将认真分析客户的尺寸,并 精简产品类别,使大规模生产更简单、更灵

根据和谐线条和传统的平衡原则进行生产。

活、更快,从而更有利可图。然而,Scabal

只有这些数据完全符合标准,它们才会被

的不同之处是大力推崇个性化和大规模定制。 传到数字化切割机,裁剪出最时尚的款式。 Scabal 采用最先进的方法和最新设备生产服

如 果 说 全 手 工 裁 剪 定 制 的 西 装 是 最 好 的,

装,其生产的服装往往是独一无二、与众

那么这样定制的衣服的确仅次于此。

不同的。

一种全新 升级的生产 方式诞生

1989 年,位于萨尔布吕肯的 Tailor hoff 工厂 并入 Scabal 集团。从此,其以高品质著称的 生产方式得到进一步改良、发展和提升,符 合制衣业的最佳实践。Scabal 一如既往,对

绝无 仅有

新机器和 IT 系统做出大量投资。随后工厂

在腰部和臀部按照最佳比例设计同等重要。 Scabal 所用的方法确保侧缝线条最优美,适 合任何体型的客户。 来工厂的参观者必然会注意到对夹克衫、

进行大胆重组,员工不再坐在“生产线”上, 市场上提供量身定制服务的品牌和零售商的

长裤和马甲进行的大量手工操作。 熟练的

而是以独立的团队开展工作,制造服装。

数量显著增加,但多数情况下,只是对在 工人以惊人的速度生产商品,但是规定的时

“这种方式在日本取得了巨大的成

标准“工业化”流程中制作的西装或夹克

间足够他们准确无误地完成工作。 这里没

功。” Scabal 的 技 术 总 监 Mario acuri 说, 衫做些轻微改动。大部分购买现成西装的男 有捷径可循——虽然已经尽可能运用最先 “我们将员工组成六到八人的团队,这些员工 士都会希望对其做些修改,例如缩短袖子、 进的设备,但还没有人能够找出可以代替人 将拥有更多的自主权和更多的灵活性,对生

收紧侧缝或改大裤腰。 因此,多数量身定

产的产品会更有责任感。这无疑会提高员工

制服务仅仅只是对成衣加以修改。

的工作满意度,而且能让我们精益求精,以 及报出更短的交货时间。”

的触觉、专家感觉或人的眼睛的代替品。 整个流程会经过多个品质控制检查,在

Scabal 采用更高水平的方法。Tailor hoff

这个时候,训练有素的员工的重要性就体

和 Scabal 富有经验的技术人员和工匠团队

现出来了。 刀具和缝纫操作者会对自己的

借助数字化方式和几乎完全复制传统的手 工作进行例行检查,此外在每一主要阶段, 虽然对 Scabal 的客户而言,标准提升无疑是

最有经验的主管还会执行全面的生产工作

个好消息,但这可能让其他制造商感到更恐

检查。 最后,还需要进行一道极其仔细的

慌。 其 他 品 牌 所 艳 羡 的, 不 仅 是 Scabal 裁

最终检查,服装才获得批准并送去进行缝

剪的卓越品质,集团独特而繁多的定制方案

制,使西裤与夹克衫相匹配。 他们致力于

也广受赞誉。“我告诉其他公司的同行,我

让 Scabal 的客户完全按照自己的订购拿到

们 的 定 制 服 务 提 供 200 多 种 方 案, 我 们 能

衣服。

够修补近 5,000 种布料,他们觉得我是在开 玩 笑。” Scabal 的 技 术 总 监 Mario acuri 说, “他们不相信我们拥有这么多种布料,也不相 信我们能提供这么多的个性化方案。他们说 :

40

现代裁剪设备可以应对各种高难度裁剪的 挑战 ; 必须在合适的时间按合适的位置完 成裁剪工作。在缝制服装之前,必须将各个 部分汇集到一起,准确裁剪及分配。 外层、


布料和衬里裁剪好后,这些精致的三维立 体布块将通过吊式输送带系统被送至各大

甘于奉献 的工人

型、 繁 忙 操 作 台。 夹 克 衫 的 里 料、 袖 子、 长裤和马甲分别使用不同的生产线。在每一 阶段,都会扫描标签上的条形码,这样就 可以立刻确定任何衣服的任何部位的精确

萨尔布吕肯雇佣近 300 名员工,60% 的制造

位置。 里料和袖子缝制到一起后,会被输

业员工是法国妇女,她们每天需要跨过国界

送到生产线的末端,用压制机将其熨平,不 进入德国。这种做法起源于 20 世纪 70 年代,

“整个流程会经过 多个品质控制检查, 在这个时候,训练 有素的员工的 重要性就体现出来了。” Mario arcuri

所有图片 : 一小组技艺精湛的工匠正在 Scabal 升级后的新生产线上工作 © Scabal 版权所有

夹克衫衬里、长裤衬里、胸衬、垫肩、口袋 衬里、衣袖衬里、各种纽扣、多种类型的

同的压制机有不同的用途。 显而易见,纽

当时德国的工资水平高于法国。虽然这种差

线、拉链、领底呢及其他——即使最传统的

扣需要在服装被熨平后才会缝上。

异在今天并不存在,但对于喜欢从事高档

西装也有很多变通的款式。夹克衫的外层用

产品生产和追求多样化工作的人士而言,在

20 多块布料制成,整件西装有 100 多个组成

Scabal 工作仍是良好的职业选择。

部分。 萨尔布吕肯与 Scabal 的总部和布料仓库 (位于布鲁塞尔)实行电子化连接。每天都

生产工厂需要负责按照标准交付(三周) 和快速交付(两周)生产 Scabal 的定制服装, 同时还负责成衣返单和季节性成衣的大部分

有货车从比利时发往德国,为最新订单运

生产。工厂忙碌的氛围得益于 Scabal 富有远

送新布料。 面料首先经过检查,随后通过

见的决策,该决策旨在维持西欧的生产并继

加热过程使之收缩,以使其在整个生产过

续对工厂进行投资。新的生产设置和改进后

程保持稳定。

的生产标准将继续保持这一引以为傲的传统。

服装样式在电脑上绘制,然后用美国公 司格伯 (Gerber) 的精密裁剪桌进行裁剪,格 伯在 Cad-CaM(计算机辅助设计/计算机 辅助制造)领域处于世界领先水平。有五台 裁剪桌用于西装、夹克衫和裤子裁剪,另外 三台用于各种衬里裁剪。但是,科技只是对 操作起辅助作用,而非对其进行控制。对于 平纹布和条纹布,可以将布料折叠起来裁 剪,这样一件夹克衫胸部的两边只需裁剪一 次。然而,对于方格形的布料,需要将布料 放平,裁剪者目测方格的平直度,允许存 在任何些许的不规则。 这需要依赖于人的 眼睛、触感、多年经验,是一种典型的专 家方法,采用此方法力求使生产达到完美。

41


特别专 题 : 纯 正羊毛 制 品

新开业! 位于比利时鲁塞尔的 Scabal 布全新旗舰店内 ©Scabal 版权所有

用 iPad 应 ad .com /ip n e k o 》 B esp spoken e B 《 l a Sca b


最近,Scabal 在布鲁塞尔(比利时首都)和欧洲最高档次的购物 目的地之一开设了一家全新旗舰店。顺便说一下,该品牌还推 出了全新的商店装饰理念。

作者 : Jérôme Stéfanski

铁卢大道位于布鲁塞尔 中 心, 与 其 同 样 闻 名 遐 迩的路易斯大道 (avenue louise) 毗 邻, 一 些 国 际 时尚和奢侈品巨擘落户于

此。Scabal 占地 250 平方米,此处原是一栋 私人住宅,为裁缝师 Jacques de vlaminck 所 有, 他 曾 与 Scabal 合 作 多 年。de vlaminck

“这个颇具选择性的策略 可使‘多品牌’网络受益, 因为这将大大提高 Scabal 的知名度和声誉” Scabal 首席执行官 Gregor Thissen

现在准备退休,但为了保障员工的未来,遂 决定将房屋出售给 Scabal。同时,Scabal 承 诺维持其所有员工的就业并尊重裁缝大师家 族 de vlaminck(自 1958 年在布鲁塞尔建立) 的传统。简而言之,这个家族企业现在将属 于另一个家族公司。 这家商店的内部已根据 Scabal 的设计标准全 部翻新。改造工程委托给了德国建筑事务所 Blocher Blocher Partners,该事务所以简约风 格和专业设计著称。为了重现传统英国绅士 俱乐部的平和氛围,Scabal 选择灰白色、暗 灰色和干邑棕——第一层全部经过重新设计, 不久将在第二层设计一间 80 平方米的 vIP 更衣室。 为 了 吸 引 客 户,Scabal 还 突 出 强 调 公 司 的 英国背景,这通常是品牌成功故事的一部 分—— Scabal 在西约克郡的哈德斯菲尔德拥 有自己的织布车间,其旗舰店位于伦敦中心

44


布鲁塞尔滑铁卢大道 ©Scabal 版权所有

45


富有传奇色彩的萨维尔街。 这个新的精品店将提供定制服装和成衣产 品以及高端配饰。 正如 Scabal 首席执行官 Gregor Thissen 所说的那样 :“我们希望保

持理想销售比例,即定制服装占 50%,成衣 产品和配饰分别占 30% 和 20%,这样既可 传承我们的传统,又可以与客户的期望协调 一致。”

零售业面临的新挑战

Scabal 的零售偶像 Sylvain Gadeyne 已在 Scabal 工作超过 10 年。这位时尚而随和的英

1938 年 以 来,Scabal 已 成 为 国 际 公认的高级面料和高端男士服装 的领先制造商。Scabal 因其优质面

国绅士生活于比利时时尚之都安特卫普,他负责全球 Scabal 所有零

料(采用原始材料,纯“英国制造”,编织

售材料的理念、生产和实施。Sylvain Gadeyne 主要在布鲁塞尔工作,

技术与科技工艺完美结合)和多种多样奢华

同时巡游世界各地的 Scabal 自营店和零售商店,为其设计富有创意

面料(布鲁塞尔可随时提供超过 5,000 种面

的商业设施。Sylvain Gadeyne 热爱设计、艺术、精美的食物和永恒

料并且可以按米出售),为许多著名的裁缝

的优雅,五年前他参与了伦敦萨维尔街旗舰店推出的第一个商店理

店和时装公司所青睐。 自 20 世纪 80 年代,

念 。他曾亲自参与比利时商店的全新装潢理念。他对整个项目投入

Scabal 已发展成为欧洲领先的传统服装制造

全部的激情和创造力,从建筑师的第一次简要介绍到最后的修饰工

商之一。今天,无论是定制服装还是成衣产

作,包括家具的选择和许多其他精细材料的选择。在《Bespoken》

品或配饰,Scabal 可为绅士打造全身装束。

的采访中,Sylvain Gadeyne 针对新的商店理念提出了自己的见解,

近几年,Scabal 陆续新增许多配饰新品。在

并述说了在完成这项巨大项目期间所面临的挑战。

“意大利制造”的质量和创新保证下,Scabal 可提供诸如衬衫、包、皮带、领带、围巾、

数月努力工作之后,当参观 Scabal 新的旗舰店时,您的第一印象是

外套、皮箱、鞋子和许多其他饰品。

什么? Sylvain Gadeyne :经 过 这 几 年 之 后, 看 到 商 店 仍 然 觉 得 它 确 实

Thissen 补充说道 :“ Scabal 的产品范围已

“非同寻常”。当您想到自己用了那么多草图、制图和模型才取得了

变得如此广泛,通过我们自己的零售商店

现在的成果,您会觉得这一具体成果很棒,而且感觉很酷。

提供这些产品是非常适宜的。”“这将扩 大我们的零售网络,主要是为了达到两个目

您面临的主要挑战是什么?

地。 一方面,最好在最优雅的环境中展现

主要挑战是,创建一个可以让人们记住的地方,伴着柔和的灯光,

我们各类产品。 另一方面,我们希望更近

在这里可以感受我们全部的奢华面料成果,嗅着皮革的味道并与了

地接近客户,通过提供个性化服务来满足

解我们产品的人交谈。网上商店获得了巨大成功,但是它们不能创

他们的需求。 从更广泛的角度来看,我们

造这种温暖舒适的零售环境。

目前的零售策略与我们的业务策略是一致

改进和创新之处与先前的商店理念相比,有什么不同?

一直是我们的主要目标之一。我们的产品全

当前的理念比先前的更让人感到温暖。干邑棕皮革和自然胡桃木使

部在西欧(德国、英国和意大利)制造,并

专卖店颇具英伦风情——非常舒适且新颖。

在超过 65 个国家出售。毫无疑问,这家新

的,该策略基于品牌的国际化,实现国际化

商店的开业将进一步扩大我们的产品覆盖 您是否能描述一下全新商店理念? 这是一个满足所有客户需求,并向客户展现 Scabal 世界的地方。 您下一个零售项目是什么? 我们仍然在进行布鲁塞尔总部 Scabal 新展厅和建筑的建设,在未来 六个月我们还要开设新的专柜、连锁店和商店。我们也决定在中国 应对难以置信的零售和品牌挑战,并且决定对其大幅投资。

46

范围。”


Scabal 是以质量而非数量取胜。因此,这不 是关于我们拥有了多少商店的问题,而是我 们能否在某些具有战略意义的所选的城市提 供非常有限的享有盛誉的门店。Thissen 总 结道 :“这个颇具选择性的策略可使‘多

品牌’网络受益,因为这将大大提高 Scabal 的知名度和声誉。 Scabal 的零售渗透的目的 不是与批发销售网络竞争,而是支持它,实 现互补的目的。”

Scabal 在中国…以及在安卡拉

Scabal 布鲁塞尔——旗舰店 Boulevard de Waterloo 32

最近,Scabal 在北京著名的国贸商城开设了第一家中国商店。开设第一家商店

1000 Brussels

之后,未来三年内将在整个中国进一步开设 12 家商店。国贸商城被视为北京最

电话 : +32(0)2 512 42 03

重要的著名商业中心之一,汇集了各种久负盛名的奢侈品牌。Scabal 已开设一

www.scabal.com

个 120 平方米的商店,商店内亦根据 Scabal 的新标准配备设施。 最近,Scabal 也在土耳其的安卡拉与其长期客户 Onel kumas(从事该品牌代理 已超过 20 年)为新的加盟店举行落成典礼。该商店位于著名的 armada(最近 翻新的购物中心)。商店提供全方位的 Scabal 产品和服务,包括成衣产品、定 制服装、配饰以及面料。 更多详情请访问 www.scabal.com/store_locator.php

47


Ghost keeping 详情 © István Csákány 版权所有, 第 13 届德国卡塞尔文献展

48


特别专 题 : 纯正羊毛 制 品

引人瞩目的制衣间 众所周知,Scabal 倾心于艺术,而偶然间,它遇到一位志趣相投艺术家—— István Csákány 尊重 工艺,并深谙工艺之道,他以独特和迷人的方式展现出对艺术的痴迷。

作者 : Stephanie Duval 你何时对艺术产生兴趣,就你个人而言,这些

念。“无头”的模特穿着这套西装,摆出社

兴趣是怎么发展起来的?

会主义绘画作品中的定格姿态,唤醒对社会

关于这一点,我有一个有趣的轶闻。当我仍

主义理想的记忆和往思。他们非常精准和细

在罗马尼亚生活时,学校举办了一场绘画比

致地操作着缝纫机,凸显劳动与美这一倍受

赛,得胜者将赢得出国旅游的机会。我非常

关注的主题。制衣间作为劳动场所,主要与

想要赢得大奖,并获得大家的交口称赞,所

女性的工作联系紧密,让人们的注意力放在

以我让我的父亲画了一幅画。不幸的是,我 工作流程上——永无止境的大规模生产。作 并没有获奖。从这个故事可以看出,艺术对

品的名字衔接了这个制衣间的两个部分,它

我而言,不单是出于绘画的爱好,而且也是

试图留住一些已经消亡或者即将消亡的东西,

在 第 13 届 德 国 卡 塞 尔 文 献 展 上,István 一个出路,让我可以摆脱故土还有我的家人 那是一种理念,或者说一种意识形态(比如 Csákány 展出了自己的杰作 Ghost keeping : 与亲戚的生活方式所形成的小圈子的束缚。

社会主义或者资本主义)。

一个完全用木材制作而成,略带传奇色彩的 制衣间。最与众不同之处在于,没有任何人 从一般角度来说,是什么推动了你的艺术发

当 你 描 绘 艺 术 作 品 时,你 是 否 会 咨 询 相 关

在 T 台上走秀,这种体现艺术与工艺关系的

展?有反复出现的题材或主题吗?

人士?

绝好尝试打动了 Scabal。

我认为非常可能受东欧影响,我的许多作品

从缝纫机的第一个原型起到展览为止,我在

作为一个家族企业,Scabal 素来重视宣扬

都是建立于东欧争议上的。意识形态,以及

真实还原制衣间场景上付出了近两年的努力。

欧洲的传统工艺,并尽力为员工提供最佳

其对于个人和民族与之应对的方式成为我艺

雕刻家与木匠与我一同工作了逾半年,为了

的工作环境,出于这样的原因,Csákány 的

术发展的主要动因。我对道德、建筑及场所, 完成 13 台机器,我们制定了非常紧张的工作

作品打动了 Scabal,并让 Scabal 产生了浓厚 以及工作方法极感兴趣,因为这些都是某种 兴趣。为此,《Bespoken》与这位艺术家畅

意识形态创造的结果。我对劳动者或工人的

时间表。光是为如此规模的项目做准备工作, 就花费了很长的时间。当然,我向大量人士

谈他的艺术起源,及其对作品的影响,以及 自我意识、不朽的作品或技术的兴趣源自于 咨询了关于还原制衣间场景的几种方法。我 Ghost Keeping 的重大意义。 《Bespoken》:请你简单地介绍下自己?

此。尽管我没有长期生活在社会主义意识形

对做这种木工活已有一些经验,这些经验来

态下,但我认为相关思维和行为模式仍在我

自我早先的作品 Bernsteinzimmer。我花了一

的生活中占有相当的比例。

些时间才找到做这种细小木工活的理想设备。

István Csákány : 我出生于罗马尼亚的圣格

所有部件均由木头研磨而成,而非采用大

奥尔基 (Sepsiszentgyörgy),我人生中的前 14

是什么导致你想要创作 Ghost Keeping ?

量专业木工和雕刻工具雕刻而成。而这套西

年都在那里度过。这段生活对我造成了无可

Ghost Keeping 的概念来自我很早之前的一个

装是我和匈牙利时装设计公司的共同智慧结 晶——我之前并没有西装设计领域的经验。

辩驳的影响 : 齐奥塞斯库 (Causescu) 政权

想法 : 将工人“西装”引入现实。一套剪

的突然倒塌、普遍的贫困以及相对封闭的匈

裁如原始的工作服,但却采用非常精致优

牙利社区,我就在这样的环境中长大。当我

雅的西装面料制作的西装。然后,我将这种

你为何选择木材作为该制衣间的主要材料?

举家前往匈牙利时,我们就像移民一样生活。 理念与一间制衣间相结合。这间稍微放大的

我已经在多个作品中采用木质材料。木材过

我想这段经历也影响了我的思想和我的生活

制衣间复制品,拥有为不同制衣任务专设的

去常常被安装在屋顶的瓦片下。我喜欢这种

方式。 我的父母试着给我们建造一个新家, 不同机器。使用这间制衣间的设备,(理论

材料的原因是,它价格便宜、外观不矫揉造

自青春期以来,我从来没有如此活跃地参与 上)可以生产西装。

作,并会随时间持续演变。为了保护它,你

一件事。当我在匈牙利艺术学院学习绘画的

必须珍惜爱护它,要不然过五十年它就会

这段时间,我们一直在努力建造着我们的家

这件作品蕴含的理念是什么?

散架。 这种材料也符合我所说的“东欧特

庭住宅。通过建造房屋,我逐渐对大量材料

这件作品对你有何启发?

征” ——你总是想用非常低质量的材料制

和建造技术熟络起来,因此我的艺术中有了 一方面,这件作品蕴含的理念确立了工人阶 作一些品质优良的产品。 这些材料和技术的身影。在我看来,我处理

级的意识形态。展览时,这套西装在某种程

空间及延伸维度的方式,一部分源自这些

度上试图表现出这种意识形态。但与此同时, 有关 István Csákány 的更多信息 :

经历。

它又是一种批判,因为只能暂时实现这个理

www.csakanyistvan.hu 49


特别专 题:纯正羊毛制 品

法国 绅士行 一个首都 : 巴黎。一边是 Scabal Savile house 经理 laurent Mancini,而另一边是知名房地产公司首 席财务官 Bruno hoang。两人侃侃而谈,分享他们对永恒优雅、奢华面料和定制服装的共同激情。

作者 : Cécile de Forton

laurent Mancini (穿着 Scabal 皇家经典 系列三件套西装,货号 :702664) 和 Bruno hoand (穿着 Scabal 英雄 系列两件套西装,货号 :702888)——共同在巴黎散步。© Scabal 版权所有

十 一 岁 的 laurent Mancini

四 十 三 岁 的 Bruno hoang 出 生 于 巴 黎, 在

缘由 : 首先, Scabal 是仅有的由真正的专

对三件套西装情有独钟。他

两 年 前 第 一 次 与 laurent 相 识。 他 的 一 生 业人士进行定制剪裁的品牌。其次, Scabal

目 前 是 Savile house 的 经 理, 都在这个首都城市度过,是个地地道道的 是极少的能提供两类定制服装的品牌(一类 此外,还为 Scabal 在巴黎提

巴黎人。 他毕业于著名的巴黎高等商学院

致力于裁缝定制,而另一类则按客人要求制

供的这种专属个人服装服务 (Ecole Supérieure de Commerce de Paris, 简 作)。第三, Scabal 的面料应有尽有,质地、

管理公共关系部。他精力充沛而且专业技艺

称 ESCP),现在是一名财务总监。他非常 设计和色调品类丰富。最后, Scabal 服务一

精湛,热爱日常工作。他尤其喜欢接触客户, 喜爱 Scabal,不仅对 Scabal 的面料品质和选

流,专业精神首屈一指。

总是乐于聆听,而且乐意就找到最好的西装

择给予高度评价,而且还非常欣赏这个团队

这两种性格的人士将不可避免地碰撞出激

向客户提供意见。他来自法国南部,2001 年

的专业精神和灵活性。他不光对鞋履充满激

烈的火花。而事实也正是如此,Bruno 每隔

搬到巴黎。 从经济学和服装裁剪专业毕业

情,还是 En Grande Pompe —— 致力于男士

两月都要穿过辉煌的奥斯曼大道,前往芳登

后,他在 Polo Ralph lauren 开始了职业生涯。 优雅与定制剪裁服装的线上论坛的创始人和

广场,在展示 Scabal 全套面料和定制服装的

后来,他曾为一家猎头公司工作,也曾在纺

管理人。如果您想征询任何有关西装、布洛

Savile house——纯粹绅士俱乐部的私人展

织行业创办过自己的公司。凭借多项高超技

克皮鞋或配饰方面的穿戴建议,他是最佳人 厅,和 laurent 亲密会面。两位绅士纵情阔

能,laurent 在四年前作为销售代表,开始

选。若问他为何倾注如此信任,让 Scabal 为

谈,把酒言欢,谈起经典定制、手工工艺和

与 Scabal 合作。

他打造全套服装,这位摩登绅士会给出四大

精良配饰,更是欲罢不能。

50


你们如何界定自己的风格?

三天刮一次胡须,还是留小胡子?

Laurent Mancini : 我 拥 有 Scabal 的 风 格。 LM : 三天刮一次胡须,但每天都修剪。 经典、优雅及永恒的英伦风情。

BH : 因为我的血缘关系,没有胡子。

Bruno Hoang : 我介于伦敦和米兰之间。经 典但不扭曲。 必备的时尚配饰?

你们对完美周末的最佳计划? LM : 我在周六工作,因此和客户度过美好的 一天是必须的!在周日,我会晒日光浴、吃早 午餐、沿圣马丁运河散步、在 le Marais 购物、

在巴黎经常去的两个地方?

参观展览并看一场电影。非常繁忙,我知道。

LM : 安静的圣马丁运河 (Canal Saint-Martin)

BH : 晚点上床,睡个懒觉,至少一次。

区和 Mama Shelter —— 一个啜饮鸡尾酒的完美

LM : 胸袋巾,可以为夹克增添一抹人情味。 之地。这座新颖的酒店 - 酒吧 - 餐厅 (hotel-bar- 去海滨还是登山? BH : 袖扣。我收藏了很多。

restaurant) 由 Philippe Starck 设 计, 位 于 远 离

乐福鞋还是牛津鞋?

BH : Candelaria, 一 间 地 下 酒 吧, 如

LM : 当然是牛津鞋。它们与西装搭配营造

果 你 从 未 听 说 过 它, 就 非 常 难 找 ; 以 及 “选择,就是放弃 (Choisir, c’est renon¬cer)”。

出美妙的和谐感。

L’Hédoniste —— 主厨是绝对的大师。

LM : 海滨。我热爱游泳,这是一种返回我

旅游胜地的地区,被视为最有前景的酒店之一。 的本源——地中海的方式。 BH : 正如安德烈 • 纪德 (andré Gide) 所说 : 我无法选择。我是滑雪和水肺潜水的爱好者。

BH : 我有大约 50 双鞋,百分之九十都是牛 津鞋,但夏季穿着乐福鞋能保持凉爽和舒适。 深刻影响你们的人物?

你们向朋友提供的最佳时尚建议?

LM : 赛日 • 甘斯布 (Serge Gainsbourg),他

LM : 永远不要穿着超过三种颜色的服装。

对你们来说,短袖衬衫是……

前卫、时髦并充满创意。

BH : 将你的袜子换成半腿袜。没有什么比

LM : …… 绝对不会穿的!除非你打网球。

BH : 我的父亲。我的性格出自于他,却又 毛茸茸的腿更糟的了!

BH : ……为海明威而保留。只有他知道该

不同于他。 用三个词描述 Scabal ?

如何穿着。 塞纳河左岸还是塞纳河右岸?

LM : 国际化、定制、权威。

两件套还是三件套西装?

LM : 塞纳河右岸,更加符合我的生活方式。 BH : 用途广泛、精雕细琢并且优雅非凡!

LM : 当然是三件套西装!

BH : 没什么两样。就我而言,在市中心生

BH : 两者我都喜欢,包括适合重大场合或

活最重要。

重要商业会议的双排扣西装。 地铁还是自行车? 你们热衷于星期五便装日 (casual Friday) 吗? LM : 周末骑自行车,其他时间乘地铁。 LM : 由于我星期六还要工作,所以星期五

BH : 有引擎的双轮车 : 踏板车或摩托车。

对我来说没有什么特别的。 BH : 我过去经常参加,但有一次一位同事 问我是否已经穿光了所有干净的衬衫,因为

Scabal @ SAVILE HOUSE

我当时正穿着一件马球衫,自此以后,我决 定不再参加星期五便装日。

Savile house 秉承传统的经销模式,阁下须提前预约,方可到店 选购。 展厅位于 Square de l’Opéra louis Jouvet,5 二楼。 亦可于

领带还是领结?

阁下方便的地点(家中或办公室)提供货品,以供阁下选购。藉

LM : 领带,因为领带是垂直的配饰,可以

Savile house 提供的服务,客户可自行设计定制的高品质西装,让

让身材显得更加修长。

阁下在西欧也能享受英国的精品定制服务。该店提供大量可选布

BH : 领 带。 让 领 带 形 成 一 个 漂 亮 的“ 酒

料及剪裁方案,为阁下提供真正的个性化服务,按时交付,不负

窝”,会增添不少妙趣。领结有一种我喜爱

阁下所托。

的古典魅力,但我不敢系领结。

Scabal 产品在巴黎的 Printemps de l’homme 和 Bon Marché 也有售。 时尚锦囊、布料新产品、私人邀请等尽在 :

亚麻还是棉?

www.scabalstores.com/fr/scabal-blog

LM : 棉更柔软。亚麻非常容易穿戴,它的 天然纤维在夏天具有非常美妙的透气性,但 我不喜欢它粗糙的一面。 BH : 海岛棉,轻盈耐穿。 你们吸引人的秘密? LM : 倾听他人。 BH : 可能是我异国情调的一面。我是越南 和法国混血儿。

Scabal @ Savile house 内景 Scabal © Scabal 版权所有

51


特别专 题 : 纯正羊毛制 品

穿着“和平”

www.scabal.com/peacefund

今天的 Scabal 早已凭藉卓越工艺名扬天下,即便在经济低迷的当下,雇员依然有六百多人。谈起 多年前亲手创办的企业的成功之道,J.-Peter Thissen 先生感慨良多。然而这位 Scabal 集团的总裁 并没有大谈过去的辉煌而沾沾自喜,也不是只把话题集中在自己的本行,而是指点我们要多多关 心那些最需要帮助的人。

作者 : Stephanie Duval

Super 120 面料 – 纯美利奴羊毛 – 2 合股纱线 – 300 克 在 Scabal 英国 huddersfield 工厂精心编织而成 货号 : 402760 © Scabal 版权所有

对于一家在逾 65 个国家经营的公司来说,不 才能看清这个单词。Thissen 补充道 :“过

的资金来自私人或私营公司,只有 10% 是公

可能对世界上许多居民所面临的困难视而不 去只可能将客户的姓名以较短的长度织入面

共资金,” antoine Bogaerts 表示 :“保持这

见。J.-Peter Thissen 表示 :“我们所有人都

料,而且这是个成本高昂的加工流程。然而

样的独立性对于我们非常重要,因为这可以确

关注这场波及全球的经济和金融危机,这合

时至今日,在我们工厂技术工艺的帮助下, 保我们能在任何环境下工作,而无需考虑政治

情合理,但这并不能使我们忘记这个星球上 我们可以克服这一困难。采用我们全新的整

环境造成的影响。” 然而,捐赠实际资金并非

其他地区的悲惨生活,比如战争、暴力、贫

Scabal 帮助无国界医生的唯一方式 :“ Scabal

经机和现代化的织布机,我们已找到获取字

困、流行病、医疗援助的匮乏以及饥饿。幸 母正确张力的方法,比如‘和平’。”

这样的国际化品牌在全世界的商店里均有销

运的是,仍有许多个人和组织尝试提供帮助, 作为一家国际化公司的总裁和家族企业之父, 售,通过接洽这样的品牌,将提升我们在目前 然而这些帮助远远不够。作为一家国际化的

J.-Peter Thissen 认为帮助致力于人类福祉的 尚未展开筹资的众多国家中的知名度,使越来

家族企业,我们必须问自己 : “我们究竟可 组织,共同消除战争、贫困、暴力和饥饿给 越多的人了解我们。在我们开展项目的一些 以做什么?”

人类带来的苦难,是自己不可推却的责任。 国家里,此举将向人们展示如何贡献自己的 这正是他决定成立一支特殊基金的原因,该 力量。我们竭诚感谢 Scabal 选择与我们合作。

通过与积极参与社会福利工作的人士交谈, 基金现已获得大量资金捐赠。除此之外,每

找到这样大品牌的合作伙伴异常难得,其意义

Thissen 逐渐意识到,改善任何境遇的一个 销售一米长度的“和平”面料,和平基金均

远远超过潜在的广告机会。 Scabal 拥有十足的

重要条件是 : 和平。他表示 :“没有水就

可获得 50 欧元捐款。这些福利捐款将被转 道德文化,和我们的运营管理团队一样,总部

永远长不出庄稼。” 随即他宣布成立一支私

账 至 无 国 界 医 生 (Médecins Sans frontières)

均设在布鲁塞尔,因此他们是无国界医生的最

募基金。

的特别账户。

佳合作选择。”

这支和平基金将通过销售非常特别的面料来

非 盈 利 组 织 的 合 作 伙 伴 协 调 员 antoine

关 于 如 何 使 用 相 关 资 金 的 问 题,J.-Peter

募集资金。Thissen 解释道 :“我希望关注

Bogaerts 表示 :“我曾长期担任无国界医生, Thissen 和 antoine Bogaerts 均强调将共同决

和平这一至关重要的主题,歌手可以表现和

并长期为无国界医生提供赞助。这些医生为全

平、画家可以表现和平,因此我们也可以用

世界所做的贡献有目共睹。年轻的医生经常冒 金将不会被分配给一个特定的项目或地区,

我们独特的方式表现和平。” 这种特殊布料 着生命危险在非常危险的条件下提供医疗服

定具体方法。Bogaerts 解释道 :“但这些资

因为 Scabal 是一家全球化公司,他们认为这

以 Super 120 羊毛编织,采用一个单词信息 务。” 对于无国界医生来说,这样的合作伙伴 些资金务必针对全世界无国界医生的工作, “和平 (peace)”的条纹设计,只有靠得很近, 对他们顺利开展工作至关重要 :“我们 90% 52

而非少数地方项目。”


53


特别专 题:纯正羊毛制 品

新潮皮具 全新款 Scabal 皮包和精选小配饰,集手工制作、 优雅高贵及奔放自由于一身,实乃阁下出差旅行、 享受浪漫周末长假、在办公室日常工作之首选。 上 : 真皮商务包,配钱包及钥匙扣 左 : 真皮 72h 旅行包 右 : 真皮手袋

54


上 : 真皮商务包,配钱包及硬币包 左 : 真皮箱包 右 : 真皮商务包

以上所有型号均来自 Scabal Omega 皮革配饰系列

55


特别 专 题 : 纯正羊毛 制品

绅士的周末 用时尚和放松来形容 Weekend(周末)系列再适合不过了,该系列近期推出的全新精选休闲服饰 完美体现出男人轻松潇洒的风格。

作者 : Eric Musgrave

“弹力卡其”夹克 97% 棉和 3% 弹性纤维

“丝光斜纹棉布”长裤 73% 棉和 27% 聚酰胺

真皮胶底运动鞋

和 皮带

56


双纽扣“条子细棉府绸夹克” 无衬里, 97% 棉和 3% 弹性纤维

纯棉衬衫 柔软衣领、修身剪裁、休闲风格

消息 : Weekend 系列再添新品。更 旦成衣制作完成,我们就马上将其漂洗和染 准 确 来 说,Scabal Weekend 奢 华 休 色,以赋予它们柔软的质地和稍显陈旧的外 闲服饰系列再添新成员,为阁下提

观。整个系列的服饰均可为穿着者提供简单

供更多选择。本品牌自营店现已推出此高品 易穿的舒适感,因此夹克均无肩部衬垫,以 质休闲服系列,恭迎阁下前往选购,阁下亦 提供柔软、舒适的贴身感。” 可从 Scabal 批发零售商提供的 2013 年春夏

2013 年 春 夏 款 全 新 Weekend 休 闲 服 饰 系 列

款服装中选购此系列服饰。

包含多款夹克,其中包括杰出的萨哈里宁

Scabal 销 售 与 采 购 部 经 理 Olivier Vander

(saharienne) 夹克或受旅行启发的棉布夹克,

Slock 表 示 :“ 休 闲 服 —— 优 雅 的 休 闲

以及西装上衣。另有多款长裤可供选择,包

服——是世界上增长最快的服饰,我们希望

括拥有妙趣多彩的纽扣的丝光斜纹棉布长裤

顺应潮流,满足大众的需求。 并非所有的

及平滑的牛仔裤。与牛仔裤完美搭配的是若

男士均在商务场合穿着西装了,我们了解, 干超优质丹宁布及条纹或花格子纹衬衫。细 Scabal 老客户的子嗣将青睐这种时髦、颇具

针织珠地棉马球衫携复古风席卷而来,深沉

现代感的服饰系列。” Weekend 系列休闲

的颜色让人一见倾心。本系列服饰精选搭配

服饰采用高品质布料(这是当然)打造,具

皮革配饰——尤其值得注意的是甄选穿孔皮

有超卓的柔软触感、丰富的颜色选择以及有 革,令整体穿着感趋于完美。 趣的别样风格。Vander Slock 解释道 :“一

57


特别 专 题 : 纯正羊毛 制品

既是个人风格, 亦是国家标志 韩国歌手朴载相(亦称 Psy) 将他的音乐视频《江南 Style》 上传至 youTube(2012 年 8 月)不过短短数月,观看次 数却已接近 9.9 亿次。在大多 数欧洲国家,这首歌还跃居音 乐榜单首位,澳大利亚、加拿 大、墨西哥以及美国的一些榜 单也是如此——这可谓韩国流 行歌曲前所未有的成功。

作者 : Stephanie Duval

Psy《江南 Style》手工绒毛玩具 © Macheretrange 版权所有 – deviantart.com

P

sy 演出的大受欢迎不仅把这位歌

个人风格

地,其中还包括世界领导人奥巴马总统和联

手推向国际舞台,也使得许多韩

拯救国家

合国秘书长潘基文。 《 大 西 洋 》 (The atlantic) 月 刊 的 记 者

国人把他视作国民英雄,因为他

Euny hong 在《江南 Style》中提到的江南区

把本国文化传播到了全球,让长期处于强势

讽 刺 的 是, 似 乎 Psy 并 不 愿 意 融 入 通 俗 的

日本流行文化产品阴影之下的韩国文化产业

k-pop 文化,但这恰恰帮助他享誉世界。与 长大,他在一篇文章中谈到这首歌的社会影

逐步获得认可。

进行批量创作的音乐同行相反的是,他的

但是 Psy 的成功不是一蹴而就的。在先后

响时宣称“讽刺是富裕国家的特权”,《江

外型远远不是光鲜亮丽的——他和占据榜单 南 Style》“标志着韩国也出现了讽刺,也

尝试就读美国的波士顿大学和伯克利音乐学

的“塑胶完美”女孩以及女人气十足的男孩 就是说,这个国家已经达到国家发展的最后

院都失败后,这名来自首尔江南区富裕家

全都截然不同,而且他搞笑的舞步也并未像

阶段” 。这就是为什么 Psy 的成就对绝大多

庭的男孩回到韩国继续追求他的歌手梦想。 其他亚洲巨星一样经过精准的编排。Psy 并

数 k-pop 歌手和乐团来说都无法企及——可

他取用西方 hip-hop 元素,打破 k-Pop(韩 不怕张扬本来的自己,即使这个形象和观众

能是因为他们太过于一板一眼了。

流音乐)歌曲创作的传统,确立一种奇特的 习惯接受的形象大相径庭。人们都知道这位

确实,没有什么能像幽默一样跨越国界、团

美国脱口秀的常客这样描述自己 :“我不

结 人 民, 因 此 连 潘 基 文 都 在 接 受 法 新 社

艺术家。为了找到合适的听众,他苦苦挣扎 帅,不高,不结实,不苗条… 但是我就在

(afP) 的采访时盛赞《江南 Style》具有“世

舞步,于是很快就成为一名颇有争议的著名

12 余载,他的歌曲只在韩国榜单上偶尔出 这儿” 。 他还说 :“光我自己就抵得上一 界和平的力量” 。他还说,“通过推广这种 现几次,直到这首奇作《江南 Style》风靡 个男子乐团”。 正是这份幽默和自识,令他 艺术,我们能更好地了解其他民族的文化和 全球。 58

独树一帜,在全世界观众的心里赢得一席之 文明” 。


《江南 Style》对韩国这类国家的社会文化

同样,Psy 对风格的处理也与传媒渠道和

影响力不容低估。最终,这个国家被广泛认 设计师产生了共鸣,而他们往往是不屑于 可为大胆、创新和灵智的文化舞台 , 事实也

过早接受像 Psy 的这种滑稽潮流的。《GQ》

确实如此。尽管 k-pop 和韩国电影已出品许

杂志献上一篇文章介绍模仿江南风格的时

多值得关注的文化产品,但它们仍不为大多 尚秘诀——最明显的是要佩戴五颜六色的 数观众所知,而是仅被国外渴求异国文化的

饰品,戴上太阳眼镜,并且无论“环肥燕

智识精英所欣赏。

瘦”,都要“泰然自若 ”地穿上黑色正式

在流行时尚行业,韩国设计师兢兢业业, 礼 服 套 装。 时 尚 网 站 Fashionista.com 报 道 与欧美同行并驾齐驱,但他们的成就并不为 说,Jill Sander 正寻求与 Psy 开展合作—— 大众所知。 韩国也因各色化妆品公司而闻

1

尽管只在亚洲合作——合作的灵感来源于

名,它们以合理的价格提供高质量的产品, Psy 的名言 :“穿得有模有样,跳得俗里俗 但是这些底气十足的品牌仍未在亚洲以外的 气” (“Dress classy, dance cheesy” )。因此 市场得到媒体宣传。 而这段滑稽的舞步视 不足为奇的是,Psy 不仅热衷于华丽的服饰, 频,将改变这一切。

更是倾心于最上乘的面料(比如“超细” 羊 毛),开士米羊绒高级织物更是他的最爱。

《江南 StyLe》 的由来

他一手把韩国推向世界文化版图的主流,连 世界领导人都假想自己骑着一匹马跳舞,他

Psy 的 表 演 单 曲 针 对 的 是 韩 国 首 都 首 尔 的

鼓 励 不 从 俗 的 人 打 破 定 见, 发 展 个 人 风

江南区。 它是城内第三大区,直到上世纪

格,享受不那么严肃的生活。 但是朴载相

2

80 年 代, 这 儿 仍 是 首 尔 最 不 发 达 的 地 区 仍然十分谦逊,在接受《时代》杂志的一次 之一,但在过去的三十年里,它却成为韩国

采访中,他很快对自己掀起的这阵热潮轻

最富有、最具影响力的区域。

描淡写起来 :“有人说一个哲学家曾这样

连 Psy 自己都将这片区域比作加利福尼亚 讲,‘当努力遇见机遇,就产生运气。’机 的比佛利山庄,因为这里的财富集中度和生 遇是 YouTube,努力则是我的过去 12 年,因 活水准都相当高。关于创作这首歌的灵感, 为我跳这种舞步、录制这种视频和歌曲已经 他 对《 商 业 内 幕 》 (Business Insider) 这 样 有 12 年了。所以我非常赞同这位哲学家的 说道 :“我把江南形容为白天体面夜晚疯

3

看法。”

狂,我是用女性来比喻这块地方。因此—— 白天体面,夜晚疯狂——歌词里也写道,我 就是这种女性的梦中情人。”

但是除了他疯狂的舞步,我们能从这位奇 特的歌手身上学到的,应该还有更多。

但是很多人马上指出,把自己塑造成女 性追逐者并不是对创作这首歌的惟一解释。 《江南 Style》是一个新词,它代表与江南区 密切相关的生活方式,只是音乐视频中的展 现,却完全是讽刺性的意味。《时代》杂志

4

的记者 david futrelle 表示 :“视频展现的

韩国歌手 Psy(1),Psy 和联合国秘书长潘基文 (2),在 NBC (美国全国广播公司,位于纽约市)的 Today Show 节目上 表演《江南 Style》 (3),Psy 和谷歌总裁埃里克 • 施密特 (Eric Schmidt) (4)

Psy 以既搞笑又笨拙的方式尝试表现出江南

区奢侈的生活方式,它是从讽刺的视角揭露 韩国方兴未艾的过度消费文化” 。 视频里的喜剧场景可能不会触动韩国以外的 观众,但是了解该国文化的人就能很快明 白,《江南 Style》其实并非呈现富人奢侈 的生活方式,而是说,试图撑富其实不过是 可怜的笑话而已。futrelle 在他的文章中恰 如其分地阐述道,这种讽刺其实是最柔和的 讽刺 :“它并不是要谴责许多韩国富人虚

“光我自己 就抵得上 一个男子乐团”

空浮夸的生活方式,而是提醒观众,奢侈地 生活‘更多地是在于态度,而非金钱’” 。

Psy

59


特别专 题 : 纯正羊毛制 品

开业狂欢! 最近,Scabal 在比利时布鲁塞尔的全新旗舰店正式开幕。 将近 200 位贵宾到访庆祝此次以布料的传承为主题的开幕式。

作者 : Jérôme Stéfanski

Scabal 绵羊是当晚的 特别来宾

布鲁塞尔旗舰店—— 外观一览

Scabal 布鲁塞尔 旗舰店 Boulevard de Waterloo 32 1000 Brussels Belgium

歌手 Stromae 和他的经纪人、博客作者 Rollin

Profirst 活动策划公司 (Profirst event agency)

查尔斯哈雪 (Charles Heidsieck) 香槟专供 Scabal

Scabal 采购经理 Sylvain Gadeyne 和 Geert Hoste 夫妇

Anne Duchateau 和资深专家 Laurent Dassel

Scabal 团队 Stephanie Myaux 和 Mariane De Greef

Scabal 公共关系部门 Emilie Mandoux 及其友人

阅读 《Bespoken》杂志…理所当然


Scabal 零售商 Eric Becker 和 Olivier Beti(来自日内瓦 Be For You)

Scabal 服装系列经理 Olivier vander Slock、 Jacques de vlaminck 以及 Scabal 订单经理 Serge decuyper

Luciano Barbera(左)和 Scabal 首席执行官 Gregor Thissen RTL 电视台记者 Patrick Weber

鞋履系列 Scabal 零售助理 Morgane Valkenborghs – 《Bespoken》供稿人 Federico Grandesso 和 Scabal 销售助理 Celine Van Cauwelaert

Aston Martin、 销售经理 Stef Tassignon

Scabal 市场培训生 Charlene Hebi

演员 Koen De Bouw 及其妻子、演员 Chantal Leyers

帽子设计师 Fabienne Delvigne

Scabal 公共关系部门 Melanie Dewulf

纯正 羊毛制品 得来不易


特别 专 题 : 纯正羊毛 制品

ciFonElli 之肩 荣耀的背后 在巴黎,Cifonelli 始终保留着真正定制裁剪的传统,它体现了技术的完美和永恒的优雅,而 Scabal 的面料可对此做出最佳诠释。《Bespoken》与世界顶尖裁缝师 lorenzo Cifonelli 的对话。

作者 : Janet Prescott 就知道 ; 他一直是我的榜样。说真的,尽

的选择,并将其实现。这是我对我的客户要

管风格不断变更,但他的工作方式仍然在激

说的第一件事。我喜欢建立一种自信的人际

励着我。

关系,这样我就能了解客户的生活方式,并 将其反映在他们的服装上。

Cifonelli 对讲求风格的巴黎人以及其他时 尚绅士来说几乎是一个神话,它的技术也相

工艺在今天有多重要?

当精湛。你们网站上的这一细节给我们留下 工艺近来非常热门。这几年里,人们开始回 很深的印象。 “Cifonelli 之肩”很快就成为了这个品牌的 终 极 标 识。karl lagerfeld 曾 说 过 :“ 从 百

归传统和手工工艺,因此,原创性和个性现 在成为必须 ; 所以我才那么确信,裁剪的 潮流将延续,从而吸引更多客户。

米外我就能认出 Cifonelli 的肩部裁剪”。经 典的肩部前倾裁剪,湿毡熨烫,让肩部活动 自如。

您如何看待未来的裁剪?

您是如何保持企业的经营活力?

多不同类型的客户。除欧洲,尤其是法国客

由于和世界客户的频繁接触,这一业务因此

户外,还有美国、巴西和俄罗斯客户,现在

我们现在的形势大好。我们在全世界拥有许

Josephine Baker 的套装由 Cifonelli( © Cifonelli 版权所有)定制

充满了活力,我们经常旅行去与客户见面, 我们还有亚洲客户,他们正在不断发现我们

Cifonelli 在裁剪方面声誉卓著,它彰显出一 而我发现有些地方能格外地激发人,比如繁

的精彩。我们有许多日本客户非常欣赏我们

种柔和的风格,魅力十足,享誉世界。它的

的作品,Cifonelli 经销在日本伊势丹 (Isetan)

华的东京和刺激的纽约,我都很喜欢。我玩

展示厅和工作坊位于巴黎环境优雅的第八行 吉他有许多年了,我发现音乐也可以成为寻

和坚山 (kashiyama) 定制的西服。

政 区 (8th arrondissement) (31 Rue Marbeuf)。 找并理解新观念的途径 ; 我特别钟爱音乐。 《Bespoken》与 Cifonelli 拥有人和裁缝大师 lorenzo Cifonelli 的对话。

Cifonelli 的理念是了解人们在现代社会如何

我们可以大胆地说,定制就是奢侈品市场的

生活,同时表现出好奇心,并将“当代服装

明日之星 !

定制”的概念推广开来。这需要在古典和现 首 先,我 想 我 们 需 要 快 速 地 回 顾 一 下 代风格间寻找平衡,思考重新创造裁剪的一 Cifonelli 的历史吗? Lorenzo Cifonelli : Cifonelli 企

种方式。 业

Giuseppe Cifonelli 于 1880 年 在 罗 马 首 创, 面料有多重要? 现已历经家族数代的更迭。创始人 Giuseppe

在我看来,好的面料必须有新意、有活力,

Cifonelli 的儿子 arturo 具备全球眼光,他在

这是最重要的。 很多 Scabal 的面料都令我

伦敦接受技术培训,于 1926 年在巴黎大胆

赞赏不已,并非仅我一人如此,因为我的客

开创业务,选下如今这片风景秀丽的经营区 户总是点名要这些材料。我最中意的系列, 域。作为第四代继承人的 lorenzo Cifonelli 和堂兄弟 Massimo 现在是公司的掌舵人。 Lorenzo,您 是 如 何 决 定 要 成 为 一 名 裁 缝

是 Scabal Romance 系列的纯开士米羊绒面 料。它们柔软,用途广泛,是制作夹克的绝

Cifonelli

佳面料。Scabal 的出品原汁原味,其工艺和

Rue Marbeuf, 31

Cifonelli 相得益彰。

75008 Paris france

师的? 我一直都知道自己会成为一名裁缝师,从我

您能总结一下 Cifonelli 的经营理念吗?

电话 . +33(0)1 42 25 38 84

第一次看见我的祖父在工作坊工作的时候我

生活如同风格一样,需要充分相信自己做出

www.cifonelli.com

62


“从百米外 我就能认出 CIfONEllI 的 肩部裁剪” karl legerfeld 如是说

lorenzo Cifonelli © Cifonelli 版权所有

63


世界的 Scabal 公司自营店

代理商和销售商

伦敦(旗舰店)

欧洲

12, Savile Row, W153PQ london + 44–20–77 34 89 63 hazel.edmonds@scabal.com 巴黎 Le Printemps de l’Homme, 4th floor 61, rue Caumartin, 75 009 Paris + 33–1–42 82 40 32 scabal.printemps@scabal.com Scabal @ Savile House, 2nd floor 5, Square de l’Opéra louis Jouvet, 75 009 Paris + 33–1–42 66 93 59 guillaume.brazo@scabal.com www.savilehouse.fr Le Bon Marché 24, rue de Sèvres 75007 Paris + 33–1–44 39 80 00 scabal.bonmarche@scabal.com 法兰克福 Scabal @ Savile House 56, hochstrasse, 60313 frankfurt + 49–69–91 39 51 26 holger-gustav.meyer@scabal.com www.savilehouse.de 柏林 Kadewe, 1st floor 21-24, Tauentzienstrasse, 10789 Berlin + 49–30–219 18 530 andreas.oltmanns@scabal.de 布鲁塞尔(旗舰店) 32, Boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels + 32–2–512 42 03 shopbrussels@scabal.com 北京 中国北京 朝阳区 建国门外大街 1 号 国贸商城三期

64

SCaBal 比荷卢总部 (SCaBal BENEluX – hEadQuaRTERS) & 国际销售中心 (INTERNaTIONal dISTRIBuTION CENTRE) +32-2-217 98 49 www.scabal.com 澳大利亚 +43-1-533 61 29 nkuntschik@scabal.at 保加利亚 +359-2-936 03 70 bvangelov@votan.eu 塞浦路斯 +90-392-228 33 40 akfinans@akfinans.com 捷克共和国 +420 724 342 111 rtoumi@gentryrow.cz 法国 +33-1-42 33 08 93 scfr@scabal.com 德国 +49-681-9871 0 info@scabal.de +49-211-497 6840 info@westtuch.de 英国 +44-207-734 1867 hazel.edmonds@scabal.com 希腊 +30-210-67 27 431 dcon@otenet.gr 意大利 +39-02-407 80 27 scabal_italia@scabal.com 波兰 +48-61-436 79 69 info@scabal.pl

布料

俄罗斯 +7-495-221-5208 ag@gatex.ru so@gatex.ru +7-495-730-2033 sol@solstudio.ru 西班牙 +34-93-726 00 99 brautex@brautex.com +34-93 726 00 99 unikman@unikman.es 瑞士 +41-61-261 25 79/80 scabal_suisse@scabal.com 土耳其 +90-212-282 71 93 info@yeniimalat.com.tr 美洲 阿根廷 +54-011-4371 6467 scabal@cipaz.com.ar 巴西 +55-11-3115 41 22 atendimento@erlu.com.br 加拿大 +1-514-335 35 11 info@hersh-rsd.com 智利 +56-27 17 39 22 contact@holmes.cl 哥伦比亚 +57-1-621 68 05 marsanti@etb.net.co 多米尼加共和国 +1-809-562 4416 laronde@codetel.net.do 墨西哥 +52-55-5515 8433 gillybru@prodigy.net.mx

葡萄牙 +351-275-954 827 jvi@jvi.pt

SCaBal 定制 +52-55-5660 75 40 cincu@prodigy.net.mx or alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx

罗马尼亚 +40-21-311 56 46 showroom@casafrumoasa.ro

美国 +1-212-764 8580 scus@scabal.com

服装及配饰

委内瑞拉 +58-212-264 6914 inversionesmarumi@gmail.com 世界其他地区 澳大利亚 +61-3-5989 8601 a.wain@bigpond.net.au 文莱—柬埔寨— 印度尼西亚—老挝— 马来西亚—缅甸— 菲律宾—新加坡— 泰国—越南 +65-6336 0070 heefabricagencies@hee.sg 香港 +852-23-762 535 fbfhk@fieldingbrownfinch.com.hk 印度 +91-11-23 26 45 00 bindragroup@vsnl.net 伊朗 +98 55611469-55614137 tehranivahid@hotmail.com +98 55611469-88701343 babaksanayei@yahoo.com 日本 +81-6-6232 2755 scabaljapan@scabal.co.jp 科威特 +965-243 36 85 bennekhi@hotmail.com 新西兰 +64-9-828 06 74 velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz 沙特阿拉伯— 阿拉伯联合酋长国 +44-140-375 27 16 faris@fmmercie.com 韩国 +82-2-2285 6230 dnjyoo@yahoo.com 叙利亚 +963 - 11 2233986 +963 - 11 2222784 akkad-sons@gmail.com

下 期内 容 : 20 13 年 8 月

在下期的《Bespoken》中,您将赏阅 Scabal 2013-2014 年的秋 冬系列(为时不远,敬请期待!),我们精心挑选为品牌大使 的体育名人将在其中一展优雅风采。我们全新的北京专卖店亦 会在其中做出精彩介绍。访问网址 www.bespoken.com 预订杂 志(将邮递至您的住宅),或使用 iPad 访问网址 www.bespoken.com/ipad 阅读杂志。


Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back. Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguetteshaped movement.

www.corum.ch


Drink our know-how wisely.

BESPOKEN 12 - Chinese  

A partial translation of our twelfth BESPOKEN magazine

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