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2013–2014秋冬 推广定制生活品味的世家宝行动

2013-2014秋冬 第十三版


THE NEW JAGUAR F-TYPE.

YOUR TURN. It’s the sports car only Jaguar can make. Supercharged engines and supercharged emotions. Now it’s your turn.

JAGUAR.COM

HOW A LI V E A RE YOU ?

9,0-11,1 L/100 KM. CO2: 209-259 G/KM. Highly advanced engines – 3.0 V6 340PS, 3.0 V6 380PS and 5.0 V8 495PS.


We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact : LEO bvba, Erik De Ridder edr@eventbox.be or +32 (0)486 13 13 13 Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors. Bespoken is neither responsible for nor endorses the content of advertisements printed on its pages. Bespoken cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material. Editor Jérôme Stéfanski Publisher LEO bvba Project Coordinator Kristel Geets Styling Sylvain Gadeyne Graphic Design Bert Wagemans Writers JEAN-PAUL TALBOT James Drew Eric Musgrave Jérôme Stéfanski Joanna Pays Anja van den borght Proofreading james drew & colin moors ReadRight.be

Photographers Luk Vander Plaetse Stephen Papandropoulos Ronald Stoops SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B–1000 Brussels Belgium Phone : + 32 (0)2 217 98 49

E D I TOR I AL C O MMEN T

THE LUCKY NUMBER

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ear reader, You are holding the 13th edition of Bespoken in your hands, and we consider this to be a very lucky number. This version of our magazine has seen some changes – our editorial team have made great efforts to improve on readability – you will find a little less text and many more pictures and following our readers’ requests, we have included more ‘look and fashion’ tips. After all, this is what we are all about, providing the discerning man with the perfect platform to design his own inspiring wardrobe. We want to take you even deeper into the world of the Scabal man, by giving you an insight into our ‘Misters’’ choice of cars, holiday destinations, accessories and, most importantly, tailors. While ‘Mr. Style’ is more classical, more British and more romantic, ‘Mr. Strategy’ is more business-minded, cerebral and lively – a gentleman who would find himself very much at ease in the monumental office towers we highlight in our architectural review. The Misters and the ‘look book’ obviously only highlight examples of what browsing through the Scabal collection can bring – many more examples can be found on our new website or, of course, in one of our numerous Scabal stores. This time, a strong emphasis has been placed on accessories, since they represent a very important element of style. Building an international brand is a long-term project, and many steps need to be taken. After opening our first flagship store in Brussels, we are now taking things much further a field. June saw the opening of our first Chinese retail location in Beijing, a milestone that will hopefully only be the beginning of a long adventure in this booming market. As the little logo on the bottom of this page indicates, we are very proud to look back at 75 years of activity as a cloth merchant, from the first sales of our founder in 1938 to today. You will find this logo on many of our communications throughout the rest of the year in order to commemorate this happy anniversary. We wish you, as always, happy reading. Peter & Gregor Thissen

www.scabal.com Do you have any suggestions or feedback ? Let us know at www.bespoken.com Read Bespoken on your iPad : www.bespoken.com/ipad

‘Our editorial team have made great efforts to improve on readability’

Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper.

© Scabal

Gregor Thissen, Scabal CEO

Scabal CEO Gregor Thissen and his father Group Chairman J. Peter Thissen

YEARS

This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at  Bespoken.com 3


Scabal in f i gures

5,000 The number of exclusive fabrics in Scabal’s permanent collections

© Scabal

By Jérôme Stéfanski

An invaluable reserve of fabrics is maintained at Scabal’s headquarters, in the centre of Brussels – more than 5,000 styles are permanently available and sold by the metre, with no minimum requirement. Clients who typically order Scabal fabrics are traditional tailors, renowned fashion designers, international luxury fashion brands and fashion stores, and costume designers for movies, operas and theatres. A large portion of these fabrics is also personally used by Scabal itself to create its own readyto-wear and made-to-measure garments. Scabal guarantees that all orders are prepared and dispatched within 24 hours. This is quite an achievement, but also a necessity for a company that exports to more than 65 countries throughout the world. Six expert cutters are responsible for the 800 lengths of fabric that are hand cut every day – a sophisticated stock system, based on a combination of computer statistics and human judgement, has been developed to manage this stock.

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Some of the 5,000 references that make up the impressive fabrics stock in Brussels


GOLDEN

BRIDGE

Montre à remontage automatique linéaire, boîtier en or rouge 18 carats avec côtés et fond saphir. Premier mouvement CORUM automatique de forme baguette en or gravé. Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back.

AUTOMATIC

Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguette-shaped movement.

www.corum.ch


Drink our know-how wisely.


Special feature

________________

________________

His Personality His Wardrobe

His Travel Destination Irish break in Donegal County

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________________

Mr. STYLE

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________________ His convertibles British style during the Mille Miglia

________________ 14

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________________ His Tailor Joseph Martin, bespoke tailor ______________________

His Favourite Drink The Balvenie

________________ 7


M r. Style

His personality Jacket, trousers, socks, shoes and turtleneck pullover: Scabal

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Mr. STYLE and FABRIC N째801875

Mr. Style is a globetrotting cosmopolite. His attitude to life is a confluence of classic English courtesy, south-European flair and relaxed Americana. He loves to combine rugged menswear pieces and classic tailoring with an interesting twist. Everything he wears needs to be smart but casual, to smooth his demanding journeys. For special end-of-year trips, Mr. Style adheres to his beautiful winter jacket from the Shetland & Donegal collection. It is a traditionally woven fabric, n째 801875, a pleasantly warm wool made from the finest fibers. Its plain weave, natural finish and sturdy weight give the jacket the trendy rustic look and voluminous feel that Mr. Style is so fond of. With its subtly speckled shades of brown, this stylish country tweed can be worn on both casual and more dressed-up occasions. An original, all-round choice, if you want to perfect your contemporary winter look.

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M r. Style : H is W ardro b e

Casual winter

accessories As often as his schedule permits, Mr. Style takes to the Scottish moors for the equally famous grouse hunting. Thus, he takes advantage of the Scabal collection to find chic and comfortable accessories..

Boots: brown genuine leather

Belt: brown nubuck

Cardigan shawl collar: 80% wool, 20% polyamide

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M r. Style : H is conv erti b les

British style during the Mille Miglia Mr. Style has barely noted a test of the Bentley New Continental GTC V8 he will be enjoying together with Mrs Style when his telephone rings again. Will he put the Jaguar F-Type through its paces around Firenze and drive part of the Mille Miglia course with the same car? Yes indeed – he’s right in with the official participants of this iconic old-timer race. His tweed cap slips to the side as he tries to scratch his head. To test Jaguar’s first sportscar in 50 years in what Enzo Ferrari described as “La corsa più bella del Mondo” (the most beautiful course in the world); that’s what you call testing a car in style. By Anja Van Der Borght

Jaguar F-TYPE

M

Jaguar F-TYPE

r. Style mentally reviews the engine sounds that he has exposed his ears to in recent years. Only a few Aston Martin models can compete with the glorious bellowing and exploding sound of the brand new Jaguar F-Type. He would consider an S version of the new Jaguar F-Type for this unique sound alone. The first real sports car in years from the British manufacturer will be available in three models – the F-Type, the F-Type S and the F-Type

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V8 S – powered respectively by the new 3.0 litre V6 petrol engine of 340 and 380 bhp, and the 5.0 litre V8 petrol engine of 495 bhp (which Mr Style remembers from the XF and the XJ). With the combination of front engine and rear wheel drive, the F-Type provides the technical basis for pure dynamic driving pleasure. And that is something that Mr. Style can experience first-hand when testing the three models. The chassis of the F-Type feels beautifully balanced, and the grip is amazing. Nevertheless, in the V8 (the

top model of the series), by accelerating hard around bends Mr. Style can create perfectly controlled oversteer. Heavenly! So this V8 is a full-blooded sportscar that reaches 100kph (62mph) in 4.3 seconds. Personally, our test pilote would actually recommend the V6 S. For everyday use it is just that little bit less restless than the V8. In all three versions, the eightspeed Quickshift gear box shifts equally quickly. In the inviting interior with its quality finish, Mr. Style’s attention is immediately attracted to the ingenious


Bentley New Continental GTC V8

ventilation vents that rise out of the dashboard like a state-of-the-art airco when the climate control is switched on. He also admires the copper-coloured shift paddles and other accents. Wayne Burgess, responsible with Ian Callum for the elegant and clean lines of the F-Type, gained the inspiration for this from his copper-coloured watch. “An Arnold & Son” he wonders? No, it turns out to be a Diesel. Mr. Style gathers that Burgess’s favourite design feature is the hand-made centre-mounted double exhaust on the V6-models. These are at the same time the largest and the most striking exhaust pipes that have ever been mounted on a Jaguar. They are hand made in the workshops of the Italian Unifer (a company specialising in exhausts for premium engines). The V6 models have two centre-mounted exhaust pipes, a reference to Jaguar sportscars of earlier days; the V8 has a double exhaust on the left and another on the right. In this way, an onlooker knows immediately which model he is seeing.

Bentley New Continental GTC V8

Mr. Style’s wife has always been a fan of the Bentley Continental models. She loves the irresistible combination of luxury, everyday driving comfort, and sportiness. And this is just the same with the Bentley New Continental GTC V8, the second generation of the successful cabrio inspired by the GT. Mr. Style immediately notices the more powerful and somewhat more agressive look of the four seater cabrio, while Mrs. Style sees at first glance that the car provides more space, particularly for the rear seating. The more-agressive look was chosen deliberately because the 6 litre W12 twin-turbocharged engine is not only linked to a new QuickShift gear box that shifts even faster, but is also more powerful. Its power output has been increased from 552 bhp (412kW) to 567 bhp (423 kW) and the torque by 50 Nm to 700 Nm. An absolute plus is that, in contrast to the 50-50 division in the previous GTC,

the transmission of the new cabrio splits the torque 40-60. The result: less understeer when coming out of a bend (one of the points of criticism of the previous model, he remembers), and better roadholding. Mrs Style thinks that she has found the perfect Bentley cabrio, and really enjoys herself in the winding lanes of the German Eiffel. At no moment does the cabrio fail to meet expectations, and the grip is phenomenal. Now to convince Mr. Style to manage without that Jag...

www.jaguar.com www.bentlymotors.com www.millemiglia.it 13


M r. Style : H is Fa v orite D rin k

Of malt and men

Mr. Style has a serious weakness for tradition and savoir-faire, especially in a region that he loves so much. Naturally, he chose a fabric from the Shetland and Donegal collection for his jacket and, likewise, he became very interested in the history of the Balvenie, the last distillery to control the entire process of making Scotch whisky. By JP Talbot

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Balvenie Castle

T

he Balvenie Distillery was founded in 1893 in Balvenie Castle, which once heard the echoing voice of Robert the Bruce. Here, in the heart of the fertile Speyside, the distillery began its operations. The castle’s basement became a warehouse, the first storey a maltings floor, and upstairs a loft for the barley from the thousand acres of Balvenie Mains, the adjacent farm. In the 1920s, a new maltings was built, using stone blocks. Little else has changed over the years. Today, 120 years after its creation, the Balvenie Single Malt is recognized for its exceptional quality, which is due to the fact that the distillery nurtures a high level of craftsmanship

David Stewart, fifth Balvenie Malt Master

that other malt whisky producers no longer employ. “Nowhere else will you find a distillery that still grows its own barley, still malts in its own traditional maltings, still employs coopers to tend all the casks and a coppersmith to maintain the stills”, say its happy employees.

and the evolution it goes through from newmake spirit fresh off the still to the complex alchemy of its maturation in oak casks.”

A few years after he took office, the Balvenie Classic was born. There followed several more whiskys, created of the know-how and precise craft that 12 years’ only around a dozen malt masters have apprenticeship yet mastered in Scotland. The business Behind this expertise lies David Stewart, is based primarily on the nose and fifth Balvenie Malt Master. He actually looking for the best blends – a matter of joined the distillery in 1962, aged 17, patience, passion and experience. “Being with 12 years of apprenticeship before a malt master is not an ordinary job, and him. “During that time, I learned about because the apprenticeship is so long, you every aspect of the job from my predecessor,” need to be patient and fully dedicated to the he recalls. “This included developing a craft. You obviously need to live in Scotland, deep understanding of the Balvenie whisky as by law Scotch can’t be made anywhere

The Balvenie Single Malt Scotch Whisky The Balvenie is a unique range of single malts. Each has a very individual taste, but each is rich, luxuriously smooth and underpinned by the distinctively honeyed character of the Balvenie. Today, the Balvenie Distillery produces a multi-award-winning range of the Balvenie single malts, which includes the Balvenie DoubleWood 12 Year Old, the Balvenie Single Barrel 15 Year Old, the Balvenie PortWood 21 Year Old and the Balvenie Thirty. Limited editions are also bottled every year. www.thebalvenie.com Coppersmith tools

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The Balvenie uses its own traditional floor malting

Six stages of excellence Whisky production always follows the same steps – the quality with which these steps are performed has a profound effect on the finished product. Stage 1: Barley and malting Balvenie Mains provides some of the barley that is malted to convert starch into the sugar. The Balvenie has the last active floor maltings in the Scottish highlands. Stage 2: Mashing Mashing takes place in a ‘mash tun’ to extract soluble sugars from the malted barley. Stage 3: Fermentation Fermentation is the stage at which alcohol is first produced. Such are the similarities here with the beer-making process that it is also known as brewing. Stage 4: Distillation Because the shape of Balvenie’s copper stills is so important in defining the flavours and character of the Balvenie, their upkeep is critical. This is why they are carefully maintained by a coppersmith of some fifty years’ experience. Stage 5: Cooperage The cask is so important to the taste of the Balvenie that its preparation and maintenance are entrusted to their own coopers who are committed to preserving their time-honoured skills and traditions of their age-old craft. Stage 6: Maturation The new-make spirit is filled into the oak casks in which it will mature for many years. Maturation has a profound influence upon the taste of the single malt, not just because of the type of cask used, but also because of the temperature changes in the warehouses and the cool highland climate beyond.

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Coppersmith Dennis McBain at work

else, which means weathering some of the extreme temperatures that we get here.” David Stewart claims to have nosed more than 400,000 casks during his career. “To give you an idea, just to create a single batch of the Balvenie Signature, I’d be looking at nosing around 300 casks and probably on average 30 whisky samples each day.”

Tradition

While all the whiskys he has created are special to him, he feels most proud of the Balvenie PortWood. “Having spent a long time working with sherry casks, my feeling was that port might enhance our maturing whisky well and the final product is one I’m exceptionally proud of,” he explains with great modesty, as this creation has earned him no fewer than 53 awards. This master craftsmanship and love of tradition is reminiscent of Scabal’s Fabrics Designer Michael Day, who is also one of a rare breed able to bring masterpieces from the best natural ingredients. Here there is no malt, of course, but rather the finest natural fibres, which he has selected, blended and worked for 36 years to produce unique, inimitable fabrics. Like whisky connoisseurs, fabric artists know their craft at first glance.


Taste our know-how wisely


M r. Style : H is tra v el destination

Irish break in Donegal County

‘The northern precipice, which drops 1,500 feet into the coomb surrounding the Little Lough Agh, harbours the majority of the alpine plants of Slieve League, the most varied group of alpines to be found anywhere in Donegal.’ Robert Lloyd Praeger, in The way that I went: An Irishman in Ireland

© Istockphoto

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Lough Eske Castle hotel and spa

Mr. Style wears a jacket made from Scabal’s Shetland and Donegal fabric collection – a perfect opportunity to discover the Irish county that gives the name to this stunning fabric. By JP Talbot

D

onegal is ‘Dun na nGall’ in Gaelic, which translates as ‘the fort of the foreigners’.

who sip Guinness before an open fire of the Olde Castle Bar, a pub that is to be found in the shadow of one of Donegal’s main historical monuments, Red Hugh O’Donnell’s Castle. To go here is to be immersed in Old Ireland, with its authentic decor and atmosphere, and its discreet luxury. Excellent local cuisine is served here, particularly the fruits of the sea caught in nearby Donegal Bay, such as oysters, fresh crab meat and lobster. Downtown is also very pleasant – several boutiques offer the famous Irish tweed, and of course the typical Irish caps, most of which are produced in the local ‘Magee of Donegal’ plant, which was founded in 1866.

Mr. Style does not feel like a stranger in the heart of this rugged, natural landscape. He loves the strong wind that whistles through the sweeping heather. He takes several hours to enjoy a walk along the rugged shores of the Atlantic, witnessing the spectacle of waves crashing against the huge cliff of Slieve League, at the western tip of Donegal. Some believe that it is the highest cliff in Europe, others say it is the second highest, but what is certain is that it rises to more than 600 metres at its peak – the view is breathtaking, and here Mr. Style feels the full force The Donegal effect Much further to the west, in Kilcar, the of the natural elements. Donegal yarns wool spinning mill is to Old Ireland be found, which was also founded in the Here in Donegal, they do not do things 19th century. Twenty employees create by halves. Nature is like this, and people three product ranges, Donegal Aran too – strong, warm and noisy sometimes. Tweed, Soft Donegal Celtic Tweed and a Just like the three weathered Irish faces, traditional Irish Heather 3ply range. Here,

we can also learn about the history of this famously indestructible high-quality fabric which, in Donegal, is said to be an evocation of the local scenery: green valleys, grey stones, the golden glow of autumn, the red berries of trees and yellow flowers. The ‘Donegal effect’ consists of a base mixture of up to six individual colours, and contrasting fleck-solid dotted along the yarn. The skill and craft of producing the tweed lies in the ability to attach the fleck while keeping its solid contrasting features intact.

Irish village life

Irish tradition and spirit also abound in Lough Eske Castle, which is to be found a dozen miles north-east of Donegal. This luxury castle hotel and spa sits within a forest, hugging the shores of Lough Eske, with the Blue Stack Mountains in the background. This imposing Tudor baronial castle traces its roots back to the late 15th century and the O’Donnell family, which founded Donegal. Beyond its facade, the hotel is an 19


Lough Eske

embodiment of casual country living. The design and decor are elegant, with an inviting lobby featuring imposing stone floors and oak staircase, yet the mood is surprisingly easygoing – from its impressive sculptures in the courtyard fountain to the diverse abundance of outdoor pursuits, the hotel celebrates the pastoral charms of Irish village life. Mr. Style will particularly appreciate the library and lobby lounge, with its exposed sandstone wall, open fireplace and leather Chesterfield sofas. Here, time stops with a glass of Balvenie PortWood – ice-free, of course...

Mountains, a green mountain range that cuts the county in half. At Donegal Bay, Mr. Style remembers when, as a child, his father first took him on a Waterbus, for more than an hour along the coast. It was not the first time they had come to Donegal – then, he was amazed by the impressive landscape of the coast, and his interest was captured by the Old Abbey, where the Annals of the Four Masters, the chronicles of medieval Irish history, are to be found.

Donegal is also home to many country leisure pursuits – there are several Blue Stack golf courses, including the Donegal Mountains Golf Club, in the south-west, while The landscape of south-west Done- to the north are the Rosapenna and gal is dominated by the Blue Stack Ballyliffin ranges. Nature lovers will

adore one of Ulster’s natural treasures, Glenveagh National Park, a nature reserve complete with spectacular mountain scenery, raised boglands, lakes and woodlands, not to mention the Glenveagh Castle, which lies hidden at his heart. The mountainous landscape of Donegal also lends itself to more physical sports such as climbing, hill-walking and rock traversing, on trails such as Poisoned Glen or Inishowen Peninsula. There is also surfing to be enjoyed on the Atlantic coast, especially in Bundoran and Rossnowlagh. The county of Donegal has preserved the values and heritage of Ireland – you will discover a multitude of gems, which are either gifts from nature or the result of centuries of traditional knowledge.

How to get there County Donegal is located in the northwest of Ireland, around three hours’ drive from Dublin and two from Belfast. The county also has its own airport, Donegal Airport, which is very well connected to Dublin and Glasgow. A codeshare agreement with Loganair provides links to London Heathrow, with connecting daily services from Dublin. Being a local airport, it is advisable to reserve a taxi or rental car in advance. All practical travel information can be found at www.donegalairport.ie © Istockphoto

Other useful links

Golfing by the sea in Donegal 20

www.discoverdonegal.ie www.donegalhotels.ie www.solishotels.com/lougheskecastle www.oldecastlebar.com


M r. Style : H is Tailor

My Tailor is... Irish Mr. Style is particularly fond of Donegal tweed. It is to Donegal’s neighbouring county of Sligo that Mr. Style goes to meet his tailor. Over three generations and almost 120 years, Joseph Martin has been the quintessential representation of bespoke tailoring in Ireland. By Joanna Pays

Joseph Martin, Tailor

I

n the magical landscape of the northwest of Ireland lies the town of Sligo, renowned for the excellence of its traditional craftsmen, such as Joseph Martin, bespoke tailor. The tradition of tailoring in Joseph’s family dates back several generations - but it was his grandfather, also Joseph Martin, who set up the family’s first tailor’s shop in 1895. His son, Joseph Henry, grew the reputation of the business, opening the current premises in Sligo and a fitting room in Dublin.

Joseph Martin was destined for tailoring. From an early age in his father’s workshop he would be given simple tasks with remnants of fabric and tailor’s chalk. Bespoke tailoring apprenticeships in Italy and London were followed by studies in fashion design in Belfast. He then returned to his native town of Sligo to work alongside his father - who cut his last suit at the age of 90. “The best advice he gave was ‘always use the finest fabric, recruit and train the best staff and through hands-on quality control ensure the best finish.”

“I live and work in an area of myth and legend that has inspired poet and artist” says Martin. “Looking north I can see the “We may be in a remote location but we mist shrouded hills of Donegal where, for are a team of highly skilled people. The generations, tweed has been woven that quality of our tailoring is equal to the best reflects the colours of land and sea.” Our worldwide. My passion for the craft is fed location means that our overheads are by the tremendous satisfaction I get from lower therefore we can deliver the high- making a customer look and feel good, in any situation.” est quality at a very competitive price. 22

Traditional and contemporary designs

Joseph Martin appreciates fine quality British fabrics, such as Scabal’s Triple A, a blend of Super 120’s wool and cashmere mix. “While luxurious to the touch it has an underlying strength and excellent crease recovery, making it ideal for both business and travel. I particularly like the broad scope of the Triple A range; with its traditional and contemporary fabric designs it suits any personality, from the conservative to the more flamboyant customer who wishes to make a personal statement in the way they dress. Among my first choice for relaxation, naturally, would be Donegal tweed or Loch Fyne jacketings teamed with vibrant Scabal corduroys.” Besides weekly visits to his Dublin fitting room, Joseph often travels to meet customers in Paris, London


‘My passion for the craft is fed by the tremendous satisfaction I get from making a customer look and feel good, in any situation’ Joseph Martin, Tailor

Joseph Martin’s workshop

and Luxembourg. As result of client recommendations, his international business is growing. “Kieran Thompson, owner of Newport House, was complimented on his tailor by a guest from Luxembourg,” says Martin. “Through Kieran’s recommendation I have gained a large customer base in Luxembourg whom I visit regularly for fittings. A good tailor should minimize the number of fittings needed, if they measure and cut accurately and in particular assess the client in terms of his self-image. My suits are normally perfect by the second fitting -but of course more fittings are done if required.” Martin has a cross section of clients, from international industrialists and public figures to musicians and writers. All are extremely elegant gentlemen who are as relaxed and confident in the business world or in public life,

as on a country estate or socialising. They value their appearance on every occasion and appreciate beautifully tailored clothes made from the finest fabrics. James Hamilton, 5th Duke of Abercorn epitomizes the style of Joseph Martin’s clients. He sits in the House of Lords, is a business director, and is the owner of Barons Court sporting estate. “The Duke has portrayed me to his friends as the ‘finest representative of bespoke tailoring in Ireland,” says Martin. “Tailoring for the Duke brings me to Barons Court quite often, where my fishing friend George and I breakfast with the Duke and Duchess. After breakfast I do fittings of the Duke’s suits in the library and then spend the day salmon fishing on the Barons Court fishery on the beautiful river Mourne. Going home with a wild Atlantic salmon makes it a wonderful day.”

Joseph Martin 1 Teeling Street Sligo, Republic of Ireland. T +353 7191 62257 /+353 876 686 095 www.josephmartin.ie jmartintailors@eircom.net www.newporthouse.ie www.barons-court.com 23


EnginE capacity: 3799 cc - Max powEr: 530 hp @ 6500 rpM - Max torquE: 710 nM @ 2250 rpM (in ovErboost, othErwisE 650 nM @ 2000 rpM) - Max spEEd: 307 kM/h - 0-100 kM/h: 4.7 sEcs - FuEl

acg Maserati nv Ijzerweglaan 101, 9000 gent

consuMption (coMbinEd): 11.8 l/100kM (23.9 Mpg) - FuEl consuMption (urban): 17.4 l/100kM (16.2 Mpg) - FuEl consuMption (Extra urban): 8.5 l/100kM (33.2 Mpg) - co2 EMissions: 274 g/kM

F.M.a. ertBruggestraat 108 c, 2110 wIjnegem Francorchamps Motors brussels chaussĂŠe de Bruxelles 54, 1410 waterloo


S cabal Au t umn- W inter 2 0 1 3 - 2 0 1 4 T rends

Modern British Luxury Suit: Gallery, fabric n째 801897 Shirt: pure cotton Tie: pure wool Pocket-handkerchief: pure wool 25


Suit: Gallery, fabric n째 801897 Shoes: brown genuine leather Shirt: pure cotton Tie: pure wool Pocket-handkerchief: pure wool

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Chino: Weekend Collection Cardigan: pure cashmere Shirt: pure cotton 27


Coat: nubuck (hamster interior) Shoes: brown genuine leather Scarf: pure cashmere Trousers: Corduroy, fabric n째500766 Socks: Merino Wool Cardigan: pure cashmere 28


Suit: Flannel & Saxony, fabric n째 702802 Shirt: pure cotton Braces: 45% cotton, 40% viscose, 15% rubber fibres, genuine leather clips

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Jacket: Loch Fyne, fabric n째 852229 Chino: Weekend Collection Messenger bag: dark brown genuine nappa leather Belt: genuine leather

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Fall padded jacket, Outdoor Collection Chino: Weekend Collection Shoes: brown nubuck Tie: pure silk Shirt: pure cotton 31


Coat: Outdoor Collection Trousers: Corduroy, fabric n째 500766 Shoes: brown genuine leather Scarf: pure cashmere 32


Jacket: pure sheepskin, Leather Outdoor Collection Trousers: Corduroy, fabric n째 500766 Shoes: brown nubuck Shirt: pure cotton Pullover: pure cashmere

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Cardigan shawl collar: 80% wool, 20% polyamide Jeans: Denim Nice 1 Bag: calf leather Shirt: pure winter cotton

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夹克:Gallery系列,面料编号801906 长裤:Corduroy系列,面料编号500761 围巾:纯羊绒 领带:真丝 衬衣:纯棉 手套:真皮,100%羊毛内衬 35


夹克:Weekend系列 紧身牛仔裤:Weekend系列 皮鞋:深琥珀色真皮 衬衣:纯冬季棉 领带:纯羊毛 套衫:纯羊绒 36


外套:Weekend系列 牛仔裤:牛仔布面料 腰带:真皮 衬衣:纯冬季棉 围巾:纯羊绒

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夹克:Noble Tweed系列,面料编号801825 牛仔裤:牛仔布面料 衬衣:纯棉 领带:纯羊毛 围巾:纯羊绒

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套装:Flannel & Saxony系列,面料编号702802 外套:Gallery系列,面料编号801912 皮鞋:深棕色真皮 领带:纯羊毛 衬衣:纯棉

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燕尾服:Monterey Bay系列,面料编号702386 腹带,领结:真丝 衬衣:纯棉

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LEXUS IS

223 hp 99 CO

g/km

Follow Lexus on www.facebook.com/lexusbelux

2

SEDUCTIVE DYNAMICS The brand new Lexus IS 300h is a surprising marriage of luxury, dynamic driving and lower emissions. With 223 hp to call on, this first hybrid IS emits from just 99g/km of CO2, practically no fine particles and minimal NOx. This gives it amongst the lowest fiscal (BIK) rates. Diesel competitors are left standing! A dynamic luxury car that respects the environment? Typical Lexus!

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AVERAGE CONSUMPTION AND CO2 EMISSIONS: 4,3 – 4,7 L/100 KM AND 99 – 109 G/KM Environmental informations (AR 19/03/2004): www.lexus.be Vehicle illustrated with options.

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世家宝2 0 1 3 - 2 0 1 4 秋 冬 季 服 装 趋 势

2013-2014

秋冬款服饰 世家宝的锐意创新是专业制衣技术不断提升的动力所在,推出美轮美奂的2013-2014年秋冬服 饰系列。无论备受追捧的入门级西装面料,还是最为奢华精致的考究成衣,世家宝的全新秋冬 系列定能为品味卓绝的高端顾客奉上一见倾心的款式。 作者:Eric Musgrave

Ultra Silk Siberia 系列

42


JUST IN TIME系列

SLEEK系列

蓝色、浅米色和浅绿色。320克羊毛羊绒 混纺面料独具高贵气质。280克面料达到 世家宝以入门级的价格,奉上设计新潮 该系列细腻考究,重量仅为240克,用于 Super 120规格标准,采用精纺环锭纱, 的纯羊毛面料系列。服装重量仅320克, 制作适合一年四季穿着的服饰。SLEEK系 表现质感光滑。350克羊毛面料令方格花 沿用传统制作工艺,外观独具时尚魅力, 列为Super 150规格面料,羊毛/丝绸比 纹更具质感。 物超所值。该系列提供36款选择,均在 例为85:15,提供24款全新设计,色调有 LOCH FYNE系列 世家宝英国工厂纺制,包括多种设计巧 明有暗,既有灰色和银色,亦有天蓝和 海军蓝。这种羊毛和丝绸混纺面料的表 妙的混纺效果,以银灰色为主色系。 最新的 Loch Fyne 系列拥有美妙的手感, 面光泽,较之普通丝绸更加柔和。 GALAXY系列 完全归功于精湛的100%粗纺羊绒纱面 SHETLAND & DONEGAL系列 料。纯色系是其特别强的元素,采用天 该系列均在英国Huddersfield的世家宝 然纯羊绒面料,自然棕、超浅灰色和暗 两种传统面料在这一系列中得到 工厂纺制,共有44种图案,以风格别致 蓝色一应俱全。图案包括格纶花格纹、 的设计为主,例如阴影方格、彩色纺织 升华。Shetland系列提供14种图 整齐的双重格纹和人字形。蓝灰色是精 效果及圆点。即使是素色面料,底色亦 案,Donegal系列提供11种图案,均 致的色调搭配,使人心情平静。 会深浅不一,显得动感十足。该面料达 采用纯新羊毛面料,体现出质朴的感 到Super 110级别,品质上乘,重量仅有 觉。Shetland色调包括浅米蓝色及仿锈 CASHMERE CORDUROY系列 280克,是制作西装的最佳面料。 褐色,重量为340克。Donegals系列采用 中性的米色、暗灰色和黑白色、深蓝色、 上等的棉布加入8%的羊绒,赋予面料柔 SALT AND PEPPER系列 暗绿色和深棕色,重量为420克。 软奢华的触感。灯芯绒采用细线或中粗 风格,适合制作长裤或是夹克。该系列 该系列先将两根纱线缠绕在一起,然后 NOBLE TWEED系列 有鲜明的世家宝风格,色彩明快醒目, 编织成面料,营造变化微妙的色调,略 包括金色、紫色、红色、暗蓝色、暗绿 带怀旧色彩。该系列包括29款设计,以 该系列产于英格兰,包括30款设计,充 色和深绿色,还包括经典的深色系。 黑、白两色为主,采用纯色和中号方格 分体现对对英国传统的尊重与创新。所 图案,备受追捧。该系列面料重量在280 有面料均为390克纯羊毛品质,无可挑 ULTRA SILK SIBERIA系列 克至320克之间,适合多种考究套装,亦 剔。除常见的复杂图案外,还有色彩多 可用于制作夹克。 样的纯色粗花呢,包括浅米色、浅灰色、 该系列面料重量430克,为100%丝绸面 料,新颖独特,高超工艺赋予其无比顺 中蓝、浅绿色、深浅仿锈两色、中灰和 TRIPLE A系列 滑的触感。该系列适合制作夹克和外套, 深蓝。 充分彰显世家宝面料的卓绝品质,色调 该系列在英国制造,为Super 120规格西 GALLERY系列 包括黑色、浅灰色、天蓝色和黄色。 装面料,加入羊绒成分,倍显奢华。该 Gallery系列包括23种图案选择,适合多 系列包括40款设计,主要包括半花式图 案、阴影条纹、字形、暗纹和结构细腻 种冬装款式,尤其适合新潮人士。正如 的编织。面料重量为320克,以保守的灰 世家宝2013-2014年秋冬系列一样,该 色和蓝色为主,底色新颖别致。 系列色彩多样,包括军绿色、暗蓝、天 43


TREASURE BOX系列 Treasure Box 系列是世家宝极至奢华的西装面料系列,融入珍贵的铂金和24K黄金装饰材 料。1999年,世家宝推出融入先进技术的产品,在上好的羊毛面料中织入细金线。此后,铂 金线、金刚石颗粒和青金石颗粒也被加入布料中。Treasure Box 系列上次新品发布已是四年 之前;今年的全新系列比以往更加奢华。 整个系列中有11款精美的设计,全部采用顶级的Super 150美利奴布料。其中两款设计仅采 用铂金线。五款使用24K黄金线。四款面料含有铂金线和24K黄金线。以往系列中,世家宝曾 采用22克拉黄金,今年的新品仅采用24K黄金。所有布料都采用斜纹结构,既有经典金色细 条纹装饰的直条纹,也有金色和铂金色条纹交替装饰的影纹布料。该系列还采用人字形设计。 由于装饰元素奢华珍贵,面料通常采用经典且内敛的色调,包括黑色、深蓝色和灰色。钟爱私 人和珍贵面料西装的鉴赏家们定会有打开这个“财宝箱”的冲动。

44


GALAXY系列 Galaxy系列的部分设计灵感来源于观星,为全新的Super 110规格面料,绝对物超所值。该系 列虽是入门级选择,仍拥有超高品质 该系列面料均在英国Huddersfield的世家宝工厂纺制,提供44种时尚图案选择,比如影格纹、 微观几何设计、彩织效果和斑点,其中很多图案来自夜空中的星座。 即使是纯色面料,例如自由投梭织品,仍会营造较大幅度的背景波动效果,以符合现代感的要 求。该系列主要采用经典色调,如黑色、海军蓝、皇家蓝和碳色等等,一些设计采用新鲜明快 的颜色,如绿黄色、黄褐色、蓝紫色、红色、天蓝色和青绿色,这些颜色通常用于条纹图案。 Super 110美利奴精纺毛纱是十分高档的面料,不仅质地轻盈,而且透气性出色。面料重量仅 为280克,非常适用于制作高档西装,并且适合在世界大多数地区四季穿着。

45


携手互信

Summit系列, 终身成就 自1938年以来, “对面料的热切追求”就一直是世家宝的格言与口号。如果说每个成功男人背后 都有一位杰出女性,那么华丽的面料背后一定隐藏着数位艺术家。Ian Wade就是其中之一,他在 世家宝工作37年,曾参与开发了最华丽的Summit系列面料。他将亲述自己的故事。

© Scabal

作者:Ian Wade

Ian Wade,世家宝面料师

“我

是Ian Wade,我 Summit系列的问世标志着世家宝的面料工 时,我深深感到:Summit系列是我终身 作为面料师已在 艺达到全新巅峰。一切工作始于严格的原 的成就。对于追求完美的顾客而言,这 Huddersfield 材料遴选。我们花费了一年多的时间,在 就是无与伦比的杰作。Summit系列已成 工作37年,几乎 英格兰、南非、新西兰和澳大利亚搜寻最 为传奇。只要曾见过、触摸过并且感受 好的羊毛。团队的努力没有白费,最终在 过其魅力,定能理解该系列为何会成为 是我工作生涯 的全部。数十年来,我们在西约克郡纺 澳大利亚南部找到了优良的美利奴羊毛。 传奇。” 制世界最上乘的服装面料。英格兰北部 这种羊毛非常特别,它的成色、产量、纤 拥有从石灰岩山丘上流下的软水,使得 维长度、卷曲度和色泽均独一无二。 此致 这里成为理想的纺纱、织造和精加工场 所。这里百余年的深厚底蕴和工艺令我 Summit系列的品质无与伦比,利用罕见 Ian Wade 无比自豪,融入当代设计和技术创新亦 的超细羊毛织成,参与该面料研制的面 料师不懈追求卓越品质。在我的职业生 在世家宝工作37年的面料师 必不可少。 涯中,曾见过很多的技术创新和梦幻般 世家宝是世界公认的“超凡”面料之父, 的面料,但却从未有过参与制作如此精 于1971年在Huddersfield的工厂中开发 美面料的机会。 出首款Super 120面料,并于20年后推出 Super 150面料。不断改进工艺是世家宝 每当我看到该系列面料精美的光泽,感 品牌基因的重要组成部分。 受那柔和的触感和那优美的自然褶皱

46


Summit系列,世家宝推出的最上乘的纯羊毛面料 © Scabal

47


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专刊

________________

________________

他的性格

他的定制服装店

50

________________

60

52

A-Man Hing Cheong 北京

________________

62

他的衣橱 54

策略先生

他的敞篷跑车

________________

________________ 他的下次体验 超越极限!

________________

56

策略先生

他的办公室 现代 简约

________________ 49


策略先生

他的性格 西装、衬衣、领带和手帕:世家宝

50


策略先生与面料602035

策略先生在选择商务套装方面独具鉴赏能力。他拥有多元文化背景, 敢于凭借卓越面料品质彰显与众不同的时尚魅力,编号为602035面 料就是最典型的代表。该高档Super 150面料采用由澳大利亚美利奴 羊毛制成,轻盈保暖,是品质最上乘的西装面料。该斜纹针织面料重 量不足280克,尤其符合冬装对面料的要求。该面料将优雅外观与舒 适质地完美融合,成为策略先生最钟情的选择。做为典型的领导者, 相比潮流趋势,他更注重品质与舒适度。他是现代简约风格的代表。 经典的设计融入时尚的元素,正如他西装上的细粉笔条纹,充分迎 合其干练的外交家风格。

51


策略先生的 衣 橱

冬季经典配饰 策略先生钟爱简约干练的风格。对于他来说,鹿皮鞋和方格纹衬衣就 是休闲装的最好体现,当然,他总会巧妙搭配一条领带。

领带: 纯羊毛

衬衣: 纯棉

皮鞋: 棕色真皮(左)和棕色磨砂皮(右)

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The creation of your storage.

www.armadi.be DRESSINGS - CUSTOM CABINETS - SHUTTERS - LIBRARIES


策略先生:他 的 敞 篷 跑 车

保时捷918 Spyder: 混合动力跑车 策略先生在他二十多岁就得到这个昵称并非偶然,他认为只有蠢人才会把钱存进银行。他倾向于 风险投资,或是购买一部具有升值能力的顶级轿车。保时捷就是满足他要求的顶级品牌之一。 策略先生在2013年初得知这款保时捷918 Spyder(著名的保时捷公司生产的第一辆混合动力 跑车)已经上市,这令他兴奋不已。 作者:Anja Van Der Borght

于最新原型车还在测试中, 暂时还不能真正驾驶这辆保 时捷918 Spyder,但策略先 生已经预订这款动力澎湃且 效率极高的混合动力跑车。 跑车特性 保时捷918 Spyder

保时捷918 Spyder的运动性能以多种方 式显露无遗。例如,该车融入保时捷独 有的四轮驱动理念,得益于保时捷深厚 的赛道经验,尤其是911 GT3 R Hybrid 应用的卓越技术。内燃发动机和电动机 为后轮驱动提供动力,另一个电动机则 为前轮提供动力。动力系统可独立控制 前轮驱动,从而确保高速过弯性能。只 要想到这些,策略先生都会异常兴奋。

源自604马力(450千瓦)的4.6升排量 V8引擎,转速高达9,150转/分钟。该 车还配备有两个动力分别为154马力 (115千瓦)和127马力(95千瓦)电动 机。PDK七速双离合变速箱将动力传输 到后轴。 打破纪录

RS Spyder的衍生产品 与保时捷目前的混合动力产品类似,918 Spyder采用平行混合动力模式。主动力 54

918 Spyder在电动模式下,由0-100公 里/每小时(0至62英里/每小时)加速不 到7秒,而在正常模式下仅需2.8秒。总

之,保时捷918 Spyder具有打破多项纪 录的能力。它的油耗更是轻而易举地击 败众多竞争对手。做为一款混合动力跑 车,该车不仅拥有跑车的澎湃动力,发 动机总功率达875马力(652千瓦),还 能实现每百公里仅3升的惊人油耗,甚 至比多数小型轿车的油耗还低!换言之, 这是一款具有历史意义的保时捷跑车, 策略先生情愿不惜重金购入。 www.porsche.com


迈凯轮12C Spider:《化身博士 (Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde)》 1998年,最后一辆迈凯轮F1赛车在其工厂下线,如今,迈凯轮生产“量产汽车”的时代再次到 来。如你认为自1966年以来只有迈凯轮和法拉利曾参加每一个F1赛季,实在是大错特错。策略 先生认为,任何具有丰富经验的品牌,都有能力生产出梦幻般的超级跑车。 作者:Anja Van Der Borght

迈凯轮12C Spider

不只是敞篷版

无其他新意。当他尝试按下按钮,便发 现迈凯轮Spider设有一个可独立操控的 迈凯轮MP4-12C获得无数赞 后车窗。这真是太棒了。驾驶过程中, 誉后,策略先生很想知道敞 其变速箱的运转方式更是令人感到惊喜 篷版是否同样具有出色的品 不断。变速箱换挡更快速平顺,这款跑 质。迈凯轮12C Spider 采 车简直无懈可击!拨动换挡拨片所发出 用了与双门版相同的底盘和3.8升V8引 的“滴答”声,听来不那么机械反而感 擎。但该车型并不仅仅是该双门跑车的 觉更自然。此外,Spider采用了同样适 敞篷版,发动机功率提升25马力(18.4 用新款MY2013双门版的全新轮毂设计; 千瓦),达到616.5马力(459.7千瓦), 这两款车都运用了传统的车门开启方式。 还采用横管连接两个排气管的设计,爆发 车门把手下方的按钮代替了原有的滑动 更撼人心魄的声浪。 触碰式传感器开关。

当 尽在细节

顶棚关闭时,也可作为储物空间(52升) 存放行李。策略先生认为,该空间非常适 合存放外衣和包,另外在引擎盖下还有更 大的144升储物空间。 www.mclarenautomotive.com

事实与数据

策略先生注意到,内饰唯一的差别在于, 汽车顶棚可在18英里/小时(30公里/小 敞篷版的变速箱通道处多了两个控制按 时)的速度下收起,只需17秒的时间就 钮,一个控制顶棚,一个控制后窗,并 能缩入与车体同色的硬质保护盖内。当 55


策略先生:他 的 办 公 室

现代简约

策略先生钟情于简约现代的风格,建筑也不例外。或许正因如此,他才在伦敦、法兰克福和北京 三地均有办公室,且三处建筑皆出自现代建筑设计大师之手。 作者:JP Talbot

大著名设计师Renzo Piano、Norman Foster和Rem Koolhaas之间 有不少想通之处。他们曾一起合作设计诸多世界知名建筑,包括 博物馆、机场、体育场、大使馆、剧院、写字楼、船舶及室内设 计,Foster甚至曾参与航天飞机的设计。这三位设计师堪称建筑 界的男高音,凭借超凡创意、远见和创造力,在世界各地赢得了一 系列的奖项,包括著名的普利兹克建筑奖,该奖项旨在嘉奖建筑设计领域的职业成 就。Piano、Foster和Koolhaas陆续在1998年、1999年和2000年分别获得至高奖项, 该奖项被誉为建筑界的诺贝尔奖。让我们一起进入他们的世界……

© Sellar Property Group

在策略先生的办公室俯瞰伦敦城

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© Sellar Property Group

伦敦的崭 新大教堂

© imaselect.eu

伦敦桥塔,也被称作“碎片大厦”

Renzo Piano

在伦敦,伦敦桥塔的落成无疑是建筑界 的一部分,他热衷于复原城市近郊和郊 的年度盛事。大厦高310米,可从顶部鸟 区的建筑。他设计建造了的公共建筑, 瞰整个泰晤士河和市中心全景,该建筑 包括日本关西国际机场、纽约时报大厦 还力压法兰克福的商业银行大厦,成为 和巴黎新司法宫。 欧盟最高建筑。 虽然其部分作品偶尔引发争议,但这位 这里并非落成后才引人关注,早在计划 杰出的建筑大师一直努力追求建筑与环 设计建造时,就引发了许多争议,因此 境的和谐共存。策略先生十分享受从他 也获得了“碎片大厦”的昵称。伦敦桥 办公室中欣赏到的迷人景色,包括2005 塔的外观的设计灵感源自大教堂建筑, 年的热门新闻建筑—位于圣玛丽埃克斯 采用独创的棱锥造型,结合11,000块玻 30号,被人们称为“小黄瓜”的瑞士再 璃形成的外墙。天空和太阳无不映照在 保险塔。“小黄瓜”由Norman Foster设 玻璃外墙上,使得碎片大厦的外观随着 计建造,他还是法兰克福商业银行大厦 的幕后设计师。 昼夜、季节和天气的更替不断变换。 大厦内部不仅是写字楼,同时还有酒店、 豪华公寓、餐厅和一间SPA水疗馆。在 244.3米高的第72层,还设有观景长廊 和露天瞭望台。毋庸置疑,这里是伦敦 最佳的观景场所。 Renzo Piano出生于1930年,这位热那 亚建筑师就是伦敦新地标的幕后设计者。 他毕业后先与父亲一起在费城和伦敦工 作,后定居巴黎。作为战后高科技风潮

伦敦世家宝 12 Savile Row, W1S 3PQ London United Kingdom 电话:+44 20 7734 8963

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© Cambridge Jones/Getty Images Entertainment/ Getty Images

© Istockphoto

Norman Foster

法兰克福商业银行大厦,德国

欧洲金融业的象征 在Norman Foster的所有成就中,策略 先生最欣赏法兰克福商业银行大厦。这 里于1997年落成,曾是欧盟最高的摩天 大楼,并很快成为法兰克福和欧洲金融 业的象征。这座53层高的建筑,曾经是 世界上第一幢绿色办公写字楼,较之相 同体积的建筑,其能源消耗节省50%,这 都得益于外墙的自然通风以及自然光的 开发利用。

Sir Norman Foster1935年出生于曼彻斯特, 与Piano一样,他亦是高科技建筑设计领域 的大师。自曼彻斯特大学和耶鲁大学毕业 后,他在60年代与Richard Rogers以及各自 的妻子共同创立了第一间工作室。60年代 末,该公司解散,Rogers与Renzo Piano合 作,Norman Foster创立Foster + Partners, 如今,该公司在世界各地拥有超过500名员 工。Foster的团队现在每年都会负责数十 个项目。自创建以来,该公司设计建造了 商业银行大厦由Foster + Partners建筑 众多知名度颇高的建筑,包括大英博物馆、 师事务所设计,其中多个四层高的花园, 温布利球场和圣玛丽埃克斯30号,以及位 为中庭提供源源不断的新鲜空气。正因 于法国的世界最高公路大桥--米约高架桥。 如此,这拥有冬天花园环绕的办公区就 这里提及的只是其中少部分建筑成就,因 成了视觉和社交的聚集点。从外部观看, 为Norman Foster的杰作遍布世界各地! 这些空中花园令人误以为这是幢四层建 筑。从社交方面考虑,这里犹如办公室 除大型建筑项目,他的公司亦参与家具 聚集的村落,可以在此与同事交谈,或 和室内设计项目,比如,他在2007年与 Philippe Starck和Richard Branson共 在工作之余放松片刻。根据每个花园的 方向,园内的植物分别来自:北美洲、 同参与了Virgin Galactic的太空船计划 (参见第62页)。 亚洲或是地中海地区。 58

法兰克福世家宝 Scabal @ Savile House Hochstraße 56, 60313 Frankfurt Germany 电话: +49 69 91395126


© imageselect.eu

© Istockphoto

Rem Koolhaas

中央电视台总部大楼

电视大楼的杰作 在地球的另一端,策略先生正置身自己 的另一处办公室,这是荷兰建筑师Rem Koolhaas最惊人的建筑作品。这座办公 楼位于中国北京,其设计师颠覆摩天大 楼最求极限高度的传统。OMA建筑师事务 所Rem Koolhaas和Ole Scheeren放弃二 维的建筑风格,采用全三维的设计方法。 拔地而起的中央电视台主楼,由两座相 互倾斜,最终垂直合并的塔楼组成,其 悬臂结构共长75米。建筑结构的受力分 配在外观上得到充分体现:网状的钢架 结构采用三角形设计,摒弃传统的菱形 结构,承重较高的区域钢架结构密度较 高,承重较低的区域密度较低。中央电 视台总部大楼内部格局设计巧妙,方便 公众参观:公用环路引领游客通过小径 游览整座大楼,这里展示日常的工作室 情况以及中央电视台历史,在悬臂结构 的边缘,游客可欣赏中央商务区、紫禁 城和北京全貌。

OMA的创始人Rem Koolhaas出生于1944 年。起初,他主要在欧洲工作,特别是 他的出生地荷兰。在1975年,他创立了 Metropolitan Architecture(OMA), 几个成功的项目使他声名大噪,包括海牙 国会扩建工程、爱尔兰总统的府邸以及巴 黎的维耶特公园。Koolhaas 的诸多设计 作品位于美国,比如西雅图中央图书馆、 拉斯维加斯的古根海姆博物馆以及位于 纽约和洛杉矶的普拉达旗舰店。 这位建筑大师同时还是位建筑理论 家。他擅长彰显建筑的极至美感和超凡 张力,给城市规划注入超凡脱俗的元 素。Koolhaas 在商业化对城市变化的影 响中亦发挥着关键作用,他与哈佛大学 的学生们一起,开展卓越的人类学工作。

北京世家宝 国贸商城3区 建国门外大街1号 朝阳区,北京 中国 电话:+86 10 59 61 11 105

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策略先生:他 的 裁 缝

恋上时尚

每当策略先生到香港出差,他总是一有机会就拜访定制服装店A-Man Hing Cheong。该店创始 于1898年,服装裁剪师技艺高超,为策略先生展示世家宝最新款的服装面料。 作者:Joanna Pays

A-Man Ming Cheong店铺,文华东方酒店

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“虽然在服装裁剪行业已工作数十年,每当 看到我们亲手缝制的服装给客户带来愉悦, 我仍感觉无比满足” Poon先生,服装裁剪大师

Poon先生

有比香港文华东方酒 约60年前,15岁的Y K Poon以学徒身份 店里那间定制服装店, 进入A-Man Hing Cheong工作。公司有不 少曾与他共事50多年的裁剪师,家族传 历史更悠久、更负盛 统和文化遗产为这间声名显赫的公司带 名的去处吗?在不断 来了不同的感觉。“虽然在服装裁剪行 发展的城市中,仍有 业已工作数十年,看到我们亲手缝制的 些东西一成不变—比如高品位客户对 服装给客户带来愉悦,我仍感觉无比满 于工艺、质量和风格的渴望。一个世 足。有些客人光顾这里已有40多年,如 纪前,“A-Man”曾是蓬勃发展的裁缝 店。1898年,该店与相邻的Hing Cheong 今他们会带着儿孙来定制西装。” 合并,形成了今日的A-Man Hing Cheong, 并成为香港首屈一指的服装定制品牌。 别样感觉 A-Man Hing Cheong的顾客不仅有国际商 务精英,还有政治家以及电影明星。虽 然执行总监Y K Poon制定严格规定,拒 绝对外透露现有客户的姓名,但我们知 道的老客户包括:香港总督Sir Edward Youde和William Holden,以及1955年在 香港电影《生死恋》中的明星。

A-Man Hing Cheong的设计来源于经典英 国手工西装的保守风格,因此获得商界 和法律界精英的青睐。Poon先生介绍到: “大多数客户更倾向于经典的配色,比 如适合出席商务场合的深蓝色、深灰色 以及条纹。由纯羊绒、粗花呢和羔羊毛 制作的运动夹克,是流行的休闲服装。 我最喜欢的世家宝面料是Super 120和 Super 130精纺面料,以及高档羊毛面 料。这些服装面料优雅耐用,令裁剪工 作成为愉快的享受。”

A-Man Hing Cheong 文华东方酒店 香港中环干诺道中 amhcltd@netvigator.com 电话: +852 2522 3336 61


策略先生:全 新 体 验

超越极限!

天空对策略先生已非极限,他总是不停寻找新的体验,Sir Richard Branson亦是如此,通过十多年的努力,他 成功创造了全球第一艘商用航天飞船。

© Virgin Galactic

作者:JP Talbot

Virgin Galactic宇航员感受零重力环境

无重力 在到达55,000英尺高度之前,每位宇航 员都需要接受Virgin Galactic团队为

仰卧中的宇航员 62

© Virgin Galactic

事实上,在2013年4月末,Virgin Galactic又取得里程碑意义的成就,在 加州沙漠完成第一次超音速飞行。下一 个目标迫在眉睫,即达到海拔100公里 飞行高度,朝梦想更进一步。

© Virgin Galactic

于策略先生,一切始 期三天的预备课程。然后便能在飞船座 气层,并降落在太空港跑道上。有过此 于2004年的9月。英国 椅上就位了。片刻沉寂过后,伴随着发 番经历,谁还能对生命和世界保持一成 皇家航空协会在伦敦 动机的轰鸣声,火箭推进器输出强大推 不变的看法? 的活动将他深深吸引。 进力,宇航员紧贴飞船座椅,撼人心魄 Richard Branson和 的加速度瞬间袭来,几秒钟内速度便达 目前已有550人注册该亚轨道飞行,费用 为200,000美金。如有兴趣,可在该公司 Burt Rutan会见了记者,并宣布即将 到近2,500英里/小时,是音速的三倍 打造航天飞行器,将游客送入太空。天 以上。透过窗户向外望去,天空由蓝色 网站上预约……你还在等什么? 方夜谭?如果了解英国亿万富翁的创业 渐渐变为紫色,然后变为一片漆黑。现 精神和决心,便不会对此嗤之以鼻。当 在可以喘口气了。周围一片死寂。随后, 然,送游客穿过平流层绝非易事,离不 期待已久的时刻终于到来,乘客可以离 开多年的开发、实验甚至是失败,这两 开座位,体验几分钟的失重漂浮,这或 位创始人恪守承诺,致力于将Virgin 许是此生绝无仅有的体验。之后,在万 Galactic打造成首个提供定期亚轨道航 有引力定律的作用下,飞船重返地球大 www.virgingalactic.com 班的商业太空服务公司,并将其载入史 册。

蓝天变成深邃浩瀚的太空


过去-现在-将来

从披头士到 罗比 作者:Jérôme Stéfanski

Paul McCartney 最近,前披头士乐队成员Sir Paul 迎。想知道McCartney选了什么颜色 McCartney,通过他伦敦的私人裁缝 的面料吗?请至Scabal.com浏览商务 Henry Rose订购 New Deluxe 系列三种 面料目录,并输入面料编号:500914、 面料。 New Deluxe 系列为Super 100 500896和500892。 规格高档面料,风格优雅,满足客 户所有细腻需求,该面料适用范围宽 泛、触感舒适且品质卓越,倍受欢 www.henryrose.co.uk

德国萨尔布 吕肯荣誉制造

世家宝最新系列努力在现代制造与传统 工艺之间实现完美平衡。Privilege系列 最核心的元素为上衣、马甲和长裤,充 分彰显舒适质感和精妙工艺。该系列烘 托优雅经典的气质,令您独具卓尔不群 的魅力。Privilege系列由世家宝德国工 厂荣誉制造,由专业裁缝团队手工缝制 而成。如果细心观察上衣内衬,便会注意 到手工缝线,前布面采用马毛和骆驼毛 面料装饰,以确保舒适度和协调性,其 垫肩构造为双臂自由运动提供充分空间。 上述特点赋予Privilege系列优雅美感和 非比寻常的柔软度,整体质感恰到好处。 63


您可选择顶级世家宝面料定制Privilege 庆祝活动与品牌座右铭恰好契合:“牢 系列。该系列彰显着舒适与精湛工艺的 记被遗忘的价值!”正因如此,现场装 完美结合。Privilege系列仅在世家宝自 饰氛围舒适温馨,采用复古图书馆风格, 营店出售。 邀请函的设计更是匠心独运,犹如一本 小号书籍。萨克斯演奏家与舞者在舞台 www.scabal.com/stores 上献艺,当然少不了穿着世家宝面料服 装的模特们。

索菲亚(保加利亚) 的世家宝面料

www.agressiagroup.eu

全球顶级棉花

(三层)斜纹布和300/2 (双层)府绸以及其 他斜纹布。世家宝的Luxury Shirtings系 列采用Giza 45棉,该系列包括47种面料, 分为纯色和花纹(条纹,格纹等等)两 种。仅通过世家宝定制衬衫服务发售。 www.scabal.com

北京专卖店开业

近期,世家宝在中国的首家专卖店在北 京正式开业。该店位于知名的国贸商城, 世家宝欣然推出手工衬衫产品,款式别 提供世家宝所有系列的产品及服务,包 出心裁,采用最新系列的顶级纯棉面料。 括成衣、定制、配饰以及服装面料。未 正如葡萄酒的品种千变万化,埃及棉亦多 来三年内,世家宝在中国各地的专卖店 种多样。Giza 45是种植难度极高的品种, 将陆续开业。店内装潢完全秉承世家宝 但能产出极长极细的纤维。这是最好的棉 最新设计标准,以灰白色、深灰色和棕 花品种之一,主要生长于埃及的尼罗河三 干邑色为主色调,营造传统英国绅士俱 角洲地区(Kafir S’Ad),仅占世界总产 乐部的静谧奢华氛围。 量的0.4%。一捆Giza 45棉花中,只有2% 因其非凡的特性,如纤维长度、细度和光 彩,而被用来纺纱。棉纱支数包括330/3

时装品牌Agressia在五星级Kempinski Zografski酒店以时装秀庆祝品牌20周 年纪念,该品牌是保加利亚最大的男装 品牌,让所有忠实顾客都到场庆祝,显 然并不现实。 64


裁剪师日 去年春季,首届裁剪师日活动成功举办, 今年,世家宝荣幸宣布将在2013年10月 9日-19日举办冬季裁剪师日活动。该活 动为期10天,专注于展现世家宝的精湛 面料工艺和对面料的热切追求。届时将 发售特定系列的面料。此次活动是定制 西装的绝佳机会。活动范围仅限世家宝 自营的柏林店、法兰克福店、布鲁塞尔 店、北京店、巴黎店和伦敦店。

北京世家宝专卖店 中国,北京,朝阳区 建国门外大街1号 国贸商城3区 www.scabal.cn 电话: +86 10 59 61 11 1 05

th

音乐奖典礼上,罗比穿着裁剪师Spencer Hart亲手制作的服装登台亮相,该服装 采用紫色世家宝500919面料制成,是New Deluxe系列的经典之作。当晚,他还身 穿着一套由A. Sauvage制作的电光蓝西 装登台,该服装采用同一系列的500896 面料制成。最近,他还订购了Capri系列 最新的红色500379面料。他的第三套西 装亦出自A. Sauvage之手,采用世家宝 面料制成。

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世家宝与罗比• 威廉斯同台!

www.spencerhart.com www.asauvage.com

罗比·威廉斯(Robbie Williams)重 返舞台。他拥有7千万的专辑销量,曾捧 得17座全英音乐奖奖杯,是维拉港足球 队的合伙人,甚至曾打破吉尼斯世界纪 录,20多年来,他一直备受人们的关注。 从青少年偶像团队Take That成员到备 受尊敬的独立艺术家,他始终是娱乐界 的一线明星。2013年在伦敦举办的全英 65


世家宝全球专卖店 公司自营店

代理商和销售商

巴黎

Le Printemps de l’Homme, 4th floor 61, rue Caumartin, 75 009 Paris + 33–1–42 82 40 32 scabal.printemps@scabal.com Scabal @ Savile House, 2 floor 5, Square de l’Opéra Louis Jouvet, 75 009 Paris + 33–1–42 66 93 59 laurent.mancini@scabal.com www.savilehouse.fr nd

Le Bon Marché 24, rue de Sèvres 75007 Paris + 33–1–44 39 80 00 scabal.bonmarche@scabal.com

法兰克福

Scabal @ Savile House 56, Hochstrasse, 60313 Frankfurt + 49–69–91 39 51 26 holger-gustav.meyer@scabal.com www.savilehouse.de

柏林

Kadewe, 1 floor 21-24, Tauentzienstrasse, 10789 Berlin + 49–30–219 18 530 andreas.oltmanns@scabal.de st

布鲁塞尔(旗舰店)

32, Boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels + 32–2–512 42 03 shopbrussels@scabal.com

莫斯科

Scabal @ Savile House Studencheskaya st. 20, Moscow, Russia +7–499–240 1001 scabal@savilehouse.ru www.savilehouse.ru 66

欧洲 世家宝比荷卢 总部暨国际分销中心 +32-2-217 98 49 scabal@scabal.com 奥地利 +43-1-533 61 29 nkuntschik@scabal.at 保加利亚 +359-2-936 03 70 votan@votan.eu 塞浦路斯 +90-392-228 33 40 akfinans@akfinans.com 捷克 +420 724 342 111 rtoumi@gentryrow.cz 法国 +33-1-42 33 08 93 scfr@scabal.com 德国 +49-681-9871 0 info@scabal.de +49-211-497 6840 info@westtuch.de 英国 +44-207-734 1867 hazel.edmonds@scabal.com 希腊 +30-210-67 27 431 dcon@otenet.gr 意大利 +39-02-407 80 27 scabal_italia@scabal.com 波兰 +48-61-436 79 69 info@scabal.pl 葡萄牙 +351-275-954 827 jvi@jvi.pt 罗马尼亚 +40-21-311 56 46 showroom@casafrumoasa.ro

俄罗斯 Fashionverdict +7-903-721 0241 fv.uomo@gmail.com +7-495-730 2033 solstudio@bk.ru

西班牙 +34-93-726 00 99 brautex@brautex.com +34-93 726 00 99 unikman@unikman.es 瑞士 +41-61-261 25 79/80 scabal_ suisse@scabal.com 土耳其 +90-212-282 71 93 info@yeniimalat.com.tr 美洲 阿根廷 +54-011-4371 6467 scabal@cipaz.com.ar

世界其他国家和地区 澳大利亚 +61-3-5989 8601 a.wain@bigpond.net.au 文莱 - 柬埔寨 印度尼西亚 - 老挝马来西亚 - 缅甸 - 菲律宾 新加坡 - 泰国 - 越南 +65-6336 0133 heefabricagencies@hee.sg 香港 +852-23-762 535 fbfhk@fieldingbrownfinch.com.hk 印度 +91-11-23 26 45 00 bindragroup@vsnl.net 伊朗 +98-2188719269 tehranivahid@hotmail.com babaksanayei@yahoo.com

巴西 +55-11-3115 41 22 atendimento@erlu.com.br

日本 +81-6-6232 2755 scabaljapan@scabal.co.jp

加拿大 +1-514-335 35 11 info@hersh-rsd.com

科威特 +965-243 36 85 bennekhi@hotmail.com

智利 +56-27 17 39 22 contact@holmes.cl

新西兰 +64-9-828 06 74 velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz

哥伦比亚 +57-1-256 3077 marsanti@etb.net.co

沙特阿拉伯 阿拉伯联合酋长国 +44-7776-217691 faris@fmmercie.com

多明尼加 +1-809-562 4416 laronde@codetel.net.do 墨西哥 +52-55-5515 8433 gillybru@prodigy.net.mx 世家宝定制服务 +52-55-5660 75 40 cincu@prodigy.net.mx or alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx

韩国 +82-2-2285 6230 dnjyoo@yahoo.com 叙利亚 +963-11 2233986 +963-11 2222784 akkad-sons@gmail.com

美国 +1-212-764 8580 scus@scabal.com

北京

中国,北京,朝阳区 建国门外大街1号 国贸商城3区 +86–10–59 611 105

成衣和配饰

伦敦(旗舰店)

12, Savile Row, W153PQ London + 44–20–77 34 89 63 hazel.edmonds@scabal.com

面料

下 期内容:2 0 1 4 年1 月 在下期的《Bespoken》中,你将赏阅世家宝2014年春夏最新系列。欢迎在 www.bespoken.com网站预订此杂志,我们将邮递至您家中,您亦可使用 iPAD访问www.bespoken.com/ipad在线阅读。


Raidillon, always and exclusively limited to 55 original masterpieces.

www.raidillon.com


A V A N T- G A R D I S T I C P U R I T Y

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The Chinese edition of our 13th BESPOKEN magazine, Autumn Winter 2013 - 2014 www.bespoken.com www.bespoken.com/ipad

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