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BE SPO KEN Spring — Summer 2012  10th Edition

第10期 《BESPOKEN》 生日快乐

Spring-Summer 2012 TRENDS MR. FABRIC IS BACK! A SCABAL I N I TI ATI VE TO P RO M OT E A TA I LO R - M A D E LIFEST Y LE


THE HEART OF COGNAC

Taste our know-how wisely


We work mainly with international advertisers. If you are interested in our advertising rates, please contact: Jérôme Stéfanski jerome.stefanski@scabal.com or +32 (0)475 41 63 62 Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher. The publisher cannot be held responsible for the views and opinions expressed in this magazine by authors and contributors. Bespoken is neither responsible for nor endorses the content of advertisements printed on its pages. Bespoken cannot be held responsible for any error or inaccuracy in such advertising material. Editor Jérôme Stéfanski Publisher Gregor Thissen Project Coordinator Kristel Geets Styling Sylvain Gadeyne Graphic Design BaseDESIGN Writers Nigel Bishop Alan Cannon-Jones Cécile de Forton Federico Grandesso William Kissel Bruno Morandi Eric Musgrave Bernhard Roetzel James Sherwood Jérôme Stéfanski Proofreading james drew for ReadRight.be Photographers Bruno Morandi Captural Photography Luk Vander Plaetse Stephen Papandropoulos Ronald StoopS

e dito ria l

Happy Birthday Bespoken!

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t certainly does not feel like five years ago that we decided to launch our own lifestyle magazine, but it is true that you are now holding the 10th edition of our bi-annual Bespoken in your hands. Therefore, it’s a good time to reflect a little on the purpose and philosophy of this particular publication. For many years, we were quite frustrated that there was so little chance to communicate our message to a larger public. After much brainstorming, the idea of an internally edited magazine found its way into our thinking. Once the idea was born, the realization was rather speedy; first with our advertising agency, and then with our internal team, we began to compile topics and stories that very quickly filled many pages. We made the conscious choice not to turn Bespoken into a corporate brochure, but rather to incorporate content from many other sources, always being aware of our focus on personalization, the world of clothing and luxury. We have taken much pleasure and satisfaction in expressing Scabal’s ideas and philosophy, as well as researching and covering so many other fascinating topics. We are equally proud of the enthusiastic feedback that we have received from all around the world, from loyal subscribers. Bespoken has become an integral part of Scabal, and there is no question that it will continue to be so. At this particular point, we would like to extend our thanks and congratulations to our editor-in-chief and the whole team of internal and external contributors for the fantastic work that they have produced, edition after edition. Paying tribute to the increasing importance of the digital world, we have also decided to take Bespoken to the iPad – this 10th edition will be the first to be available through a dedicated app. The international expansion of Bespoken is also continuing – in addition to the usual online translations into French, Dutch, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, Japanese, Russian and following the release of two printed Russian versions, a Chinese and Korean version will also be available as of February 2012. As usual, many varied topics await the reader. Mister Fabric, our regular campaign theme, is back, in its Spring – Summer 2012 version. On the educational side you can read about the famous ‘silk road’ and an interesting training programme for young textile professionals that we have recently joined. Our meeting with one of the world’s most prominent horse-riders, as well as our collaboration with the latest Colin Firth movie Tailor, Tinker, Soldier Spy are also featured in detail. We thank you for your continued interest and support and are very proud to be able to wish you ‘Happy reading’, for the 10th time! Gregor Thissen & J. Peter Thissen

Illustrators Mohsin Ali Jean-Baptiste Biche Olivier Van Begin SCABAL Boulevard d’Anvers, 33 B–1000 Brussels Belgium Phone: + 32 (0)2 217 50 55

‘The international expansion of Bespoken is also continuing’

www.scabal.com Do you have any suggestions or feedback? Let us know at www.bespoken.com Bespoken is printed on environmentally friendly, fair-trade paper

Gregor Thissen, Scabal CEO

Scabal CEO Gregor Thissen and his father Group Chairman J. Peter Thissen © Scabal

This indicates a key article available in a variety of languages at  Bespoken.com 1


contents 01 Edito rial Co mme n t

happy birthday bespoken! 05 Cont ributo rs

our Loyal dream team 06 Tailor’s D ictio n a ry

The very last words 08 f ro m she e p to s h o p

finest seasonal picks 10 Clot h Guide

29 Cu lt of S port

K.S. by Scabal 34 w hy b espok e n?

a dream come true 35 sca ba l across t he wor ld

a tailor by design

Merino: a fibre for all seasons

37 t i m e l ess e lega nce

13 S p r in g –  Summe r 201 2 T r ends

38 sca ba l i n fi gu r es

Mr. Fabric is back 26 The Besp o ke Coac h

prepare for a lighter, fresher summer

cufflinks’ comeback

3 , 490

39 col l ectors i t e m

store your magazines in style 40 s p ec i a l t r i bu t e

the tailor and cutter 42 t em ptati ons

WHY SCABAL IS SUPPORTING THE Biella Master IN NOBLE FIBRES 49 Ge nt le me n’S Me e t i ng

born in britain, acclaimed worldwide a. Colin Firth B. Timothy Everest 55 Te e t i me

a double 10th anniversary

revisited classics

58 t hi s i s sca ba l

45 t er ra i n cogni ta

bunch production: If it works, don’t fix it

Let’s walk on the Silk Road 2

48 be t on e ducat i on

62 Past – Pr ese nt – Fu t ure

Scabal news 6 4 Sca ba l Wor ldw i d e


Linear-winding automatic movement, 18K red gold case with sapphire crystal sides and back. Engraved gold version of the first CORUM automatic baguette-shaped movement.

www.corum.ch


Established in 1929 in Antwerp, the diamond capital of the world, Geretti manufactures fine jewellery combining artisanal craftsmanship, creative design and modern technology to obtain a brilliant result. Visit our boutique and discover the beauty of a natural diamond. You can choose from our permanent collection or help us create the jewel of your dreams. This season Boucheron, the famed jeweler of the Place Vendôme, creates the White Edition of the famous Quatre ring. This new item is available in four versions all using the new white céramique technique combined with the famous design of a ring first presented in 2004 and a huge success since then. Discover the timeless elegancy of the house of Boucheron from Paris at Geretti and enjoy the fruitful partnership of a legendary jewellery designer and an Antwerp diamond dealer.

Geretti Jewellery & Diamonds Antwerp

Appelmansstraat 2a – 2018 Antwerp – Belgium T +32(0)3 234 29 05 www.geretti.be


cont ributors

our loyal dream team Text by Jérôme Stéfanski Illustrations by Jean-Baptiste Biche & Olivier Van Begin

Eric Musgrave

Nigel Bishop

Alan Cannon-Jones

Eric Musgrave has been writing about fashion for nearly 30 years and is the author of the recently-published Sharp Suits, a 200-page celebration of men’s tailoring. An awardwinning editor-in-chief while at Drapers, the UK’s top fashion business weekly, he has also held senior positions at Men’s Wear, Fashion Weekly, International Textiles (based in Amsterdam) and Sportswear International (based in Milan), as well as writing for numerous other publications, including Financial Times, The Observer and Vogue.

For a large part of his career, Nigel Bishop worked in advertising in London, New York and Paris. He has been a freelance writer for the past 15 years, working with multinational companies in B-to-B communications.

Alan Cannon-Jones is a course director and principal lecturer in the graduate school at the London College of Fashion and works as a consultant for tailoring, menswear and fashion design technology in the industry. He had more than 20 years’ experience working in the tailoring industry for a number of companies, including Chester Barrie, before taking up a position at the London College of Fashion.

William Kissel

Bernhard Roetzel

James Sherwood

William Kissel is a men’s fashion editor who has been writing about the worldwide luxury menswear industry for more than three decades. A three-time recipient of both the Men’s Fashion Association’s Aldo Award and the prestigious Atrium Award for outstanding reporting on the American garment industry, Kissel’s work has appeared in more than two dozen national magazines and daily newspapers across the United States. For the past 13 years, he has served as the fashion editor for the Robb Report, the US magazine devoted to luxury lifestyles. At the same time, for nearly 20 years, Kissel has been the editorat-large for MR, an American trade magazine for the menswear industry.

Author of the popular Gentleman: A Timeless Fashion and British Tradition & Interior Design, Bernhard Roetzel has studied classic men’s fashion for more than ten years. Aside from his work as an author and editor, he also holds lectures and seminars on style issues.

James Sherwood is the author of Savile Row: The Master Tailors of British Bespoke (Thames & Hudson). He has written about men’s style for over a decade in the Financial Times, International Herald Tribune, The Spectator, The Sunday Telegraph and The Independent. For the past five years, Sherwood has been the BBC’s fashion critic at Royal Ascot and he is the curator of the Archive Room at No 1 Savile Row.

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ta i lor’s dictionary

the Very Last words

For the final time, bespoke specialist Alan Cannon-Jones provides us with definitions of the essential tailoring vocabulary and expressions you requiRe to talk intelligently with your tailor. If you would like to complete your dictionary, you can always order previous editions of Bespoken at www.bespoken.com Text by Alan Cannon-Jones Illustrations by Yoke Back

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­W

whole back The back of a jacket cut in one piece without a centre seam.

wadding

A loose cohering mass of teased fibre used as padding, particularly in the shoulder pad and sleeve head of a jacket and coat. It is also used to “pad out” an area of the garment to disguise any irregularity in the figure, for example a prominent shoulder blade.

Waistband A narrow strip of fabric attached to the top of the trousers to achieve.

waistcoat A garment forming a part of a threepiece suit that is usually sleeveless and made to be worn under a jacket.

warp A series of longitudinal yarns (also called ends) in a woven material.

weasel An old term for a long thin type of pressing iron. In the nursery rhythm “Pop goes the weasel” the reference is to the tailor pawning (a monetary loan) his iron to buy beer.

weft A series of yarns (also called ends) woven across the warp of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge.

welt

Whole back: Jacket showing the whole back style without a centre back seam

woollen The system of making yarns for woollen fabrics utilising the shorter length wools within a grade. In yarns spun on a woollen system the fibres are not parallel but are crossed in what appears to be a haphazard arrangement.

wrap The overlap on the front of a jacket or coat where the buttons and buttonholes are positioned.

X x

Y

yard stick This is a measuring stick or ruler of 36 inches (imperial measurement) in length used for measuring cloth and by tailors when drafting a pattern. Today we also have the equivalent in the metre stick for metric measurement.

yarn A continuous strand of fibres, usually twisted together, used in weaving, knitting and thread forming.

yoke The upper section of a garment, front – shoulder – back, usually above chest level when it is sewn separately to the main body of the garment. For example on a shirt across the shoulders

Z

zip The zip, also known as a slide fastener is generally used as the front fastening in a pair of trousers. The zip consists of two flexible interlocking teeth mounted on a tape and a slider which joins them together in one action and parts them in the reverse action.

A chalk mark in the shape of an ‘X’ is used by tailors to mark an area of the jacket requiring extra padding and to mark the button positions on the front edge.

A folded piece of material used to finish a raw edge. The best example is the Outside Breast Pocket on a jacket formed by a welt.

X: Marked on the back shoulder to indicate more padding is required

xxx’s Welt: Outside breast welt pocket on the left front panel

The fineness of the fibre is measured by diameter and length and the finest fibres come from the longest, finest fibres. Scabal helped develop the international reference for superfine fibres which can be seen in their Super 100’s up to Super 200’s fabric ranges.

Superfine fabric gradation is defined by the fineness of the fibre.

‘I do hope that you have had as much enjoyment reading the Tailor’s Dictionary as I have had researching and writing it!’

Zip: View inside the left trouser leg showing the zip fly

Alan Cannon-Jones

Zip: Trouser showing the zip inside the open fly

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from she e p to sho p

Finest Seasonal Picks

Because the return of the sun often means lighter fabrics and colourful designs, the new Spring/Summer fabric collection is always a good way to judge the technical and aesthetic evolution of a brand. Let’s see Scabal’s offerings for this appealing time of year. By Eric Musgrave

F

or Spring – Summer 2012, Scabal demonstrates all its expertise in designing and producing innovative luxury cloths. With an expanding global customer base, the company has developed an irresistible selection of new qualities in sophisticated colours. Largely using its own mill in Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, England, the brand has again brought to its tailoring bunches an impressive array of contemporary menswear options. featherweight

As befits a company that does business in 65 countries worldwide, Scabal designs and produces luxury fabrics for all climates. Responding to consumer demand in the tropical and Far Eastern markets for ever-lighter suitings, it has taken its inspiration from the birds. Featherweight is a collection of Super 150’s qualities that blend fine wool with 15% silk yet still weigh only 160g. The silk adds a touch of stability and delicate strength to the airy weave, while also contributing to the excellent handle of the cloth. There are 25 designs in this fascinating new selection, including a full range of plains. The ground colours are notably discreet, moving from light greys to medium blues to dark blues. As befits such a delicate cloth, the patterns are always subtle. Microdesigns are very important and attractive, as are very soft stripes, especially on the lighter shades. The small but crucial element of silk is seen in the background, adding a hint of lustre. A bird’s feather is a miracle of design and natural engineering. The Featherweight collection of cloths is a miracle of human ingenuity and expert weaving skills. 8

jewel

Customers looking for a new Spring – Summer suiting for 2012 will have plenty of choice in the new Jewel collection; it offers no fewer than 51 designs. This season’s story in suitings is all about increased fineness and lightness. The brand new Jewel quality is a Super 120’s, weighing in at a mere 230gm, making it an ideal choice for a hot summer’s day in Europe as well as tropical climates that are more consistently warm. Available in a full range of shades, the Jewel range possibly looks freshest in a series of bright, intense blues. From navy to medium and on to a vivid blue, this colour is one of the most important in the Spring – Summer 2012 offer. This is a delightfully delicate collection and the patterns reflect this, with a lot of false plains and microdesigns augmented by neat and precise designs such as narrow stripes. new lapis lazuli

Lapis lazuli, the noble blue gem of antiquity, has been incorporated in a new quality of beautiful and exclusive suiting for Spring – Summer 2012. Appropriately, blue is the key colour in next season’s collections. Over the past ten years Scabal has become renowned for its unique ability to weave the most luxurious cloth that contains microscopic particles of precious metals and gems, such as diamond, platinum and gold. Lapis lazuli has been chosen for its eye-catching visual qualities and for the properties that some believe it can endow upon the wearer. Formed millions of years ago by magma rising from the centre of the earth and reacting with existing rock, lapis lazuli is a rare semi-precious stone that is found in only a few remote locations, including Chile, Ba≈n Island, Siberia and, most

notably, the inhospitable mountains of northeast Afghanistan. It has been prized for more than 6,000 years, back to the days of the ancients Egyptians, Babylonians and Sumerians. Its romantic name is composed from ‘lapis’, the Latin word for stone, and ‘azula’, which is from the Arabic for ‘blue’. Among the many qualities attributed to it as ‘a stone of protection’, lapis lazuli is believed to relieve stress and to instil in the wearer deep peace, harmony and inner self-knowledge. It is said to stimulate objectivity and clarity. It inspires personal confidence and strengthens relationships. As it is thought to positively affect the throat, it is said to improve one’s willingness to communicate freely and effectively. This beautiful stone, prized for its intense blue colour, is incorporated in a luxurious Super 150’s quality suiting, weighing 280 grammes, which contains 2% cashmere. It is woven in Scabal’s own mill in West Yorkshire, England, and can be worn all year round. A unique and powerful cloth, Lapis Lazuli is available in 12 new designs, all of them solid blue or featuring blue decoration on blue background.

Featherweight is a collection of Super 150’s qualities that blend fine wool with 15% silk yet still weigh only 160g


Featherweight fabric collection by Scabal: only 160g, available in 25 designs Š Scabal

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Clot h Guide

MERINO: A fibre for all seasons

Merino wool from Australia is considered one of the world’s finest. Let’s see why this natural material is unique and ideal for the spring and summer seasons. By Jérôme Stéfanski

Australian Merino sheep © AWI

W

ool has been one of the world’s most popular clothing fibres for hundreds, perhaps thousands of years, which explains why today there are more than a billion sheep grazing happily in more than 100 countries. There are many different breeds of sheep, and almost as many different kinds of wool, but Merino is generally considered to be the finest. Wearing clothes made from Merino wool is a good way to keep warm, of course but, as we’ll see, this extraordinary fibre is also a natural choice for spring and summer wear. Green Wool

Made of nothing but grass, water and sunlight, Merino wool is an entirely renewable resource, which may explain why there has apparently been a resurgence in demand.

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An Aussie Institution

Improving On Nature

Worldwide production of wool is currently 2 million tonnes per year and, while Australia provides a fifth of that total – ahead of China, Iran, Argentina, New Zealand and the United Kingdom – it still produces an astonishing 80% of the world’s Merino wool. The development of Australian Merino is closely interwoven with the history of the country. There’s no question about the huge contribution it has made to Australia’s economic development, but some would also say that more than any other industry it has also helped to forge the national character. Unlike kangaroos and koalas, however, Merino are not indigenous to Australia. The first ones were introduced from South Africa around two hundred years ago by European settlers (although the breed actually originated in Spain).

By then, Merino wool already enjoyed an international reputation, but selective breeding by Australian farmers rapidly improved the quality even further. Despite the country’s often harsh and inhospitable climate the breed thrived, and the soft, dense fleeces and long, fine fibres that resulted were ideal to meet the demands of the newly industrialised spinning and weaving processes, enabling the production of many lighter, softer fabrics. By the 1870s, Australia led the world in both the quantity and quality of its wool production, and continues to do so today. Australian farmers are justifiably proud of the two-hundred-year-old tradition they have inherited; of the prosperity it has generated for the country as a whole, of the communities it supports, and culture is has engendered. Despite the automation of many aspects


of production, there are still over 50,000 Australian Merino farmers and many tens of thousands more people employed in the industry. Most farms – or ‘stations’ as they are known – are still family owned and operated, with knowledge and skills handed down from generation to generation. What Mak es Merino So Special?

It all comes down to the fibres. They’re finer than normal, thicker wool fibres, so they bend more easily. And it’s this pliancy that makes Merino wool feel so silky soft and luxuriously gentle against your skin. Merino fibres also have a natural elasticity, which means that garments made from it tend to resist creasing and retain their shape better. And while the insulating property of all wool is well known, the exceptional fineness of the Merino fibre, in combination with modern fabric-making techniques, has allowed for the production of many lightweight woven and knitted fabrics that are perfect for spring and summer apparel. Responsible Farming

For today’s discerning customer, ethical and environmentally sensitive farming can be as important as the quality of the clothing itself. Australian Merino achieves the highest standards in all these areas – well looked-after sheep living in a good environment produce the best wool, so Merino farmers are committed

Summer suit and fabrics by Scabal, made with Australian Merino wool © Scabal

‘Merino is an extremely breathable fibre that absorbs moisture vapour next to the skin and then channels it away to evaporate into the air’

to exceptionally high standards of animal welfare, sustainable farming for the benefit of future generations and the responsible use of land and water resources. Clothes That BreathE

Merino is an extremely breathable fibre. It ‘breathes’ by absorbing moisture vapour next to the skin and then channelling it away to evaporate into the air. Merino clothes are consequently less prone to clamminess and odour. The same mild absorbency also makes it resistant to static electricity, which explains why Merino apparel always ‘drapes’ so beautifully, and why it’s less likely than synthetic fabrics to cling uncomfortably to your body. If you examined a single justsheared Merino fibre, you would see that it

has a natural crimp; a tiny continuous wiggle which, in conjunction with the crimp of the fibres around it, creates minute, insulating air pockets. This is why garments made from Merino keep you cool in hot weather as well as warm in cold weather. Think of it as a natural air-conditioning system! second skin

Wool has always been a key fibre used by Scabal, and the base of the majority of Scabal fabrics is Merino wool. No ordinary wool under the microscope, this textile fibre is much finer (12-25 microns) than traditional wool (27-33 microns). It is for this reason that this ultra-fine natural fibre never feels rough; it is so soft and silky that it can be worn even on the most sensitive of skins. The fibre, with its small diameter, also allows for the manufacture of very fine and light woolen garments, which feel like a second skin. Higher-quality wool is not treated with chlorine, but is slow washed to ensure that it remains soft on the skin and does not shrink. It was mainly with Merino wool that Scabal created its ‘Superfines’ range, fabrics that include Super 100’s and Super 250’s. More information: www.merino.com

Merino wool fibres

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The Woolmark symbol is a registered trade mark of The Woolmark Company. In UK, Eire, Hong Kong and India the Woolmark symbol is a certification trade mark. Photographer: David Slijper Model: Darla Baker


SPRING – SUMMER 20 1 2 TRENDS

MR. FABRIC IS BACK

For the second time, Scabal presents the finest combination of fabrics and personality, because the fabric you wear should reflect and reveal your true self… 13


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Mr. Aristocrat and Fabric N°801649 Mr. Aristocrat grew up with outstanding quality. Since his youth, he meticulously takes care of the way he walks, talks, and dresses. His love for first-grade Scabal cotton thus doesn’t come as a surprise. Coming mainly from Egypt, Scabal cotton is renowned for its finer and longer fibres which improves the cloth’s performance. A satin weave gives the cloth a particular fineness and lustre, next to impeccable drape and handling qualities. Offering comfort and a refined summer flair, a 100% cotton cloth is simply ideal to accompany Mr. Aristocrat on his summer evening strolls. His favourite cotton model is a double breasted jacket in Fabric N°801649 from the ‘San Remo’ collection. Its regatta stripes remind Mr. Aristocrat of the prestigious Oxford, Cambridge boat races, and his memorable student years there. A perfect choice to enjoy his leisure time in style, dipped in a bit of harmless, upper-class nostalgia.

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Mr. intuitive and Fabric N°801514 With a much greater acceptance of casual business wear today, Fabric N° 801514 is an excellent choice to make it through sun-drenched working days. This ‘Vintage Linen’ Scabal quality is softer and lighter than traditional linen. It also gives a relaxed silhouette with a cool and comfortable handle. Linen’s natural crease adds to this casual look and gives the fabric much flair and liveliness. The collection’s subdued shades and delavé finishing reinforce the vintage atmosphere. All this gives Fabric N° 801514 a unique and authentic character, just perfect for a man such as Mr. Intuitive, who is not into glitter or over-polished looks. Wearing a halflined jacket in Vintage Linen is his personal, modest refusal of the antiseptic perfection of our contemporary society.

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Mr. diplomat and Fabric N°752254 If you seek a suit with a luxurious handle to keep your head and body cool when on exotic diplomatic missions, head for Flamingo Bay. This collection offers cloths with no less than 60 to 80% Summer Kid mohair blended with silk or Super 130’s, both rare and exclusive combinations. Only true craftsmen can transform such a high mohair percentage into a lightweight cloth of 260 grams. By burning off all the remaining hairs during the finishing process, the cloth is softened into perfection. Let Fabric N°752254 slip through your fingers, and you will notice sunbeams shimmer through this premium light cloth. Its discerning crisp feel will help you stand the summer heat and humid well. Mohair is also one of the few qualities able to cover looks from traditional to ultra modern, with shades going from beige to fashionable pale blue or more formal darker colours. Flamingo Bay is a collection not to be missed for mohair fans looking for a contemporary, summer lounge interpretation of their favourite classic.

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Mr. entrepreneur and Fabric N°752202 Mr. Entrepreneur has set his mind on a new Super 120’s Scabal quality, made from fine Australian Merino wool. This 230-gramme cloth has been selected to create summery o≈ce wear with an urbane appearance, becoming more and more popular with businessmen of all ages. Despite its delicate nature, the wool is resistant, which makes it comfortable and pleasant to wear on a daily basis, day and night. A prunelle twill weave gives the cloth a lovely handle and a graceful, more airy drape. This raises the cloth’s level of luxury, reinforced by a subtle radiance coming from Scabal’s traditional press finish. The cloth is available in a rich spectrum of designs, from classic to modern, all assembled in the collection ‘Jewel’. Of this, a false three-button jacket in Fabric N° 752202 is Mr. Entrepreneur’s number one choice to survive sweltering business days in style.

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Mr. expert and Fabric N°752291 Living in one of London’s most prestigious areas, Mr. Expert wants a luxurious suit that allows him to do top-level business. His ideal cloth offers comfort, exquisite quality and straightforward elegance. The ‘Mayfair’ collection answers all his needs. Its ultrafine Super 150’s label comes in two weights (230 and 250 grams) to give each design its particular handwriting. This lightweight cloth quality has some volume too, which makes it a versatile gem wearable all year round. The cashmere blend has a surprisingly soft, summery touch and a fabulous drape. In Fabric N°752291, woven in Scabal’s Huddersfield mill, this quality stands out even more thanks to the discreet design. A two-button jacket of this calibre offers Mr. Expert all the means to impress with an impeccable appearance and classy maturity, and live up to Mayfair’s name.

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Mr. laidback and Fabric N°801646 And now it’s time to stretch out and enjoy summer life with Mr. Laidback. Travelling the world’s most refined holiday destinations, from the French Riviera to the vast Argentine pampas, Mr. Laidback knows how to slow down in style. His most loyal travel companion is a half-lined, ‘false’ three-button jacket in Fabric N° 801646 from Scabal’s San Remo collection, a treasure for men looking for summery comfort and modern elegance. This 100% linen quality, is one of the rare European plant-based fabrics, characterized by a special, smoother texture. The fibre breathes easily and absorbs moisture well; the irregular, slightly rough threads give the cloth a vigorous cachet. A very relaxed, cool cloth radiating rural peacefulness, ideal for long, hot summer days.

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t he b espoke coac h

PRepare for a Lighter, Fresher summer

International menswear expert Bernhard Roetzel gives us the keys to dress in style this season By Bernhard Roetzel

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Spring and summer 2012 will be a great season for all who love the Italian version of classic British elegance. We will see subdued dusty browns and beiges, lighter shades of blue and navy plus light greys with sparse injections of colour. This appeals to the man of sophisticated taste, who has a well-defined sense of ‘less is more‘. Flashiness is almost completely absent, with the exception of a few hints of aristocratic flamboyance. The key colours for next summer represent three themes that are deeply rooted in the tradition of menswear – the current shades of brown remind us of colonial times, romantically transformed and far-removed from reality. The new, lighter and fresher navy tones hint at the omnipresent pursuits of yachting and sailing, while the quiet greys reflect today‘s softer and more relaxed approach to business-wear. White and off-white are used to create freshness and contrast both with the pastel shades of beige and grey and the lighter blues. Patterns are quieter and solid colours are very often ‘false-plains’ if you look closer – we do find some larger patterns, but they are counterbalanced by softer colours. These general trends are also reflected in the fabric collections that Michael Day has designed for Scabal this season – he is rather excited about the comeback of blue in particular, although it comes as no surprise to him: “Navy has been our bestseller for years but it has always been a very dark navy. Now, the lighter navy is more popular.” Personally, he is very fond of a particular shade of blue from the Mayfair bunch. “Everybody should have a Super 150’s suit in his wardrobe nowadays. It is not yet a ‘bread-and-butter‘ cloth, but much more accessible than it was fifteen years ago.”


The key colours for summer: revisited brown, fresher navy blue and white © Scabal

To go through the Scabal bunches with the man who has designed thousands of cloths is a unique experience, especially as Michael Day seems to enjoy it just as much as the customers in the shops and the tailors all over the world. For next summer, he suggests another one of his personal favourites, the new Jewel Super 120’s. “The perfect suit for plain designs.” And for the all-important sports jacket, he recommends the Mosaic Super 130’s worsted jacketing, and would pair this with light grey mixture greys in wool for trousering, while linen jackets are best worn with cotton trousers.

says Olivier Vander Slock as he shows the details of the suit. It has narrow shoulders, a small armhole, a button front, slightly smaller pocket flaps and very narrow lapels. “We are offering this very slim model in the second season already and it is a great success.” It is also Olivier Vander Slock’s personal choice for spring and summer. He has picked for himself a two-piece suit in a lighter blue from the Mirage Super 140’s bunch. For casual wear he has chosen a very soft cotton jacket from the San Remo bunch, which he will pair with beige cotton pants.

Suits, jackets and trousers are still cut rather close to the body in spring and summer 2012. This may contradict some of the designer collections that we have seen on the catwalks, but men who actually wear the suits out there in the o≈ces don’t seem to be ready yet for double-breasted suits with wider trousers legs and pleats. Scabal also believes that the craving for slim lines will continue, as Olivier Vander Slock points out. “We know these trends of course but we have other customers in mind for our collection.” As Sales & Collection Manager, he is responsible for everything from suits to the smallest accessories. He believes that especially younger men feel more at home in close fitting, shorter jackets and low-cut, leg-hugging trousers. And they love soft jackets both for casual wear and with suits. “If you want to attract them to suits you must offer them something with a twist.”

Slim fit and soft construction are two key phrases for the upcoming warm season. Despite the general move towards more formality, men don’t want to give up the comfort that they are used to from the soft, unstructured jackets they have worn for several seasons. So, very often, suits are ordered with an unstructured soft jacket originally intended for casual wear and with slim-fitting pants that are cut like jeans. In this context, even unlined or half-lined jackets are getting more attention. Italians have always been very fond of unlined jackets, but in northern Europe, people are sometimes hesitant to buy a garment that seems not to be finished on the inside.

It is still a rather common prejudice that men who wear individually made clothes are rather conservative. But especially at the made-tomeasure end of the business many younger customers love to have their suits tailored to look super modern. “These guys love our S-Model,”

Blue, brown and grey have been stalwarts of the traditional and contemporary wardrobe for many years and from there they have conquered the world of menswear. So the new, softer and lighter shades of these colours are basically variations on a familiar theme. Still, they are important to soften up the appearance of the well-dressed men. One colour remains the same in spring 2012. Black will still be black for formal wear. 27


FIVE QUICK TIPS TO FIND THE RIGHT SUMMER WEAR 1. FIX YOUR GOAL Never forget where you will be wearing your new outfit. A classic linen double-breasted navy blazer on white linen trousers is perfect for a cocktail party on a French Riviera yacht, but might not be the best choice for a business meeting. 2. THINK ACCESSORIES Summer is an ideal period to try some creative accessories that make the difference: knitwear-polo, flowered linen pocket handkerchief and scarf, even a bow tie might work well. 3. MADE-TO-MEASURE OPTIONS The made-to-measure process offers many personalization options. Among them, the half-lining offered by Scabal is the right choice if you are after comfort and lightness. 4. FOLLOW YOUR INSTINCTS Some Spring-Summer fabrics’ colours and shades can be intense and design elements such as fancy stripes and big checks can be very attractive. Don’t be afraid to be creative and always be true to your personality when you choose your fabrics. 5. TALK TO YOUR TAILOR Your tailor is the best advisor to help you choose the right summer wear. Never underestimate his knowledge and added value, because he is not only there to take your measurements but also to advise on style.

Find your local retailer at : www.scabal.com

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cu lt of sport

k .s. by scabal

The world of fashion and horse-riding could not have found a better match. Kevin Staut, the horseman of the moment and Scabal have joined forces to create the innovative line, K.S. by Scabal. Launched in December 2011 at the prestigious Gucci Masters of Paris, this new collaboration promises a sparkling future – and we meet with France’s most elegant horse-rider at the stables of Ecaussinnes in Belgium. Text by Cécile de Forton Images by Captural Photography Styling by Jérôme Stéfanski


L

ocated only 50 kilometres south of Brussels in a village called Écaussinnes, the Écuries d’Écaussinnes occupy 20 hectares – a true haven in a natural setting. Animal sculptures decorate the fields that spread as far as the eye can see and, in his two private stables, Staut’s favourite horse Kraque Boom rests, while Silvana de Hus, the fabulous mare that has delivered the best results lately, prepares to be ridden by her master.

Flashback on the French champion’s career

Born in 1980 in France, Kevin Staut did not grow up in the world of horse-riding. His story began at the age of ten, when he acquired his first large pony named Sauvageon. As his passion for riding grew, he decided to stop all other sports. “At 16, I felt that I wanted to make a job out of my passion. Horse-riding is an expensive sport and I was lucky that my grandparents could help me financially. Throughout my entire career, everyone gave me a chance.” During his adolescence, Kevin needed more independence, so he decided to pack his bags and gain experience in different locations. At the age of 23, Kevin started to work with Pierre Baldeck, a horseman who played a key role in the young man’s life. At that time, Kraque Boom entered Kevin’s life, which was a real starting point in his career. Thanks to the stallion and hard work, many victories followed. In 2007, Kevin joined the French Team and became an essential part of the team’s reconstruction. In 2008 Xavier Marie, owner of the Haras de Hus stud farm, welcomed Kevin to his premises and became the owner of most of Kevin’s horses. Concerning his future plans: “In the short term, I am looking forward to attend the Olympic Games in London. In the long term, I would like to ride as long as possible and win as many titles as I can, individually or with the team. As a personal challenge, it would be a great satisfaction to improve my technique and the artistic aspect of my passion.” Horse-riding matches elegance

Today, Kevin Staut represents la crème de la crème in his field. The tall, thin and handsome man has secured partnerships with luxury brands such as Rolex. Horse-riding is an elegant sport, and Kevin is excellent at promoting its best image. “I’ve always been fascinated by authentic brands with a huge heritage and a strong image. As a horseman, I am permanently surrounded by famous brands. Personally I don’t like eccentricity or showing-off and prefer discretion and timeless style.” His desire for pure elegance was made possible through the innovative line K.S. by Scabal. This collection was presented at the Gucci Masters of Paris on the 2nd of December 2011. Kevin explains the reasons of such collaboration: “My stay at the Écuries d’Écaussinnes encouraged building this partnership with Scabal. Christophe Ameeuw, owner of the stables, is a visionary. He had the desire to dress horsemen in a different way. The project started with Jacques de Vlaminck, a major Scabal retailer and a friend of Christophe. Then, when we decided to actually go forward we contacted the head o≈ce of Scabal in Brussels and an immediate synergy was born. On the first shot, we were on the same wavelength. EEM’s Project Manager Clara Martins, who is responsible for this new range, worked in collaboration with Scabal’s Collection Manager Olivier Vander Slock. Together, they brought very positive development to the project and Scabal’s excellent know-how ensured our entire trust in them.” The masterpiece of the collection is a made-to-measure jacket inspired by the Business Class fabric collection, a Super 100’s wool specially developed for gentlemen who want to move in comfort and style. The special weaving reduces creases and the nanotechnology construction provides great protection against stains. 30

‘I’ve always been fascinated by authentic brands with a huge heritage and a strong image’ Kevin Staut


Interview Express bespoken: What is different about this new line by Kevin Staut – Scabal from what already exists in the world of riding? k evin staut : We wanted to recapture a certain elegance that has been lost somewhat in recent years. Our products are focused very much on comfort and lightweight fabrics and a 100% natural garment with maximum elasticity.

What type of riders are you targeting with this new range? ks :

From amateur to professional riders, everyone will find an image that suits. What are the values you most admire in your sport? ks : Elegance, technical quality and performance – these are the values reflected in the range we have created with Scabal.

What importance do you attach to your everyday look? ks : Self-respect also requires sartorial elegance and comfort – it is a constant search for aesthetics, either on horseback or in everyday life. I have my own style, my own personality.

Do you have a favourite ‘model’ of masculine elegance (singer, actor, sportsman)? ks : Brad Pitt and David Beckham, blonde just like me! (laughs).

What are you most proud of? ks :

My horses!

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“It took us six months to run some tests to find the best materials. The idea was to create a jacket in which the horseman could easily breathe and move, especially on the shoulder area. The material had to be resistant, solid, practical, light and dirt resistant,” explains Scabal Research & Development Manager Mario Arcuri. The collection is designed to be worn for the sport, but can also be for ‘after sport’ attire. Being a top-class horse rider means that you have to dress for sport but also for social events such as press conferences or gala parties. A cashmere colorful jacket would perfectly suit an interview, whereas a silky tuxedo made with flannel would fit in well with a chic winter party. Besides the made-to-measure jacket, the line K.S. by Scabal offers a series of made-to-measures shirts, ties, scarves and pocket-handkerchiefs. “In a few words, I would qualify this collection as traditional, young, technical and customizable. Traditional for its respect of horse-riding dress codes, young because it is inspired by Kevin Staut including buttonholes and colors, technical thanks to the revolutionary fabric quality and customizable as the client can compose his jacket as he wishes”, says Jérôme Stéfanski, who is responsible for marketing this latest Scabal collection. First launched in Paris, K.S. by Scabal will be presented at international major horse-riding events in Paris, Hong Kong, New York and more… Gentlemen, be inspired by K.S. by Scabal – put your imagination to work and create your own style. More information: www.scabal.com/ks Special thanks to: Écuries d’Écaussinnes Stelliger made-to-measure boots and shoes

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特辑: 《BES POK E N 》 ,生日 快乐 !

品读昔日, 畅想未来 34 为何选 择《 B ES P O K EN 》 ?

美梦成真 35 SCABA L 放 眼 全 球

定制服装大师 37 永恒优 雅

42 诱惑

链扣回归

重塑经典

38 SCABA L 读 者 统计

45 未知 疆土

3,490

重走丝绸之路

39 独家收 藏

48 支持 教育

收纳杂志的潮流方式

SCABAL 为何支持顶级纺织品领域的 BIELLA MASTER 计划

40 特别献 礼

《THE TAILOR AND CUTTER》杂志

49 绅士 会晤

生于英伦 全球闻名 A. Colin FIRTH B. Timothy EVEREST 55 高尔 夫时 间

双十周年纪念

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为 何选 择 《B ES PO K E N 》?

美梦成真 《Bespoken》是独具格调的国际化杂志,致力于呈现个性化 时尚趋势,第 10 期正式与读者见面。该杂志每年两期, 不仅彰显 Scabal 对个性化理念的最新贡献,亦带领读者 深入了解个性化奢侈品及定制时装。 《Bespoken》大获成功, 知名度与日俱增。 作者:Nigel Bishop Scabal 始 终 致 力 于 贴 近 顾 客。 该 公司 于 为 庆 祝 第 10 期 杂 志 与 读 者 见 面, 20 世 纪 50 年代 率先推出面料小样册,供 《Bespoken》推出俄文、中文及韩文版本。 顾客遴选,多年来一直坚持出版产品目录。 Stéfanski 表示 : “我们每月还拥有众多线上 但自主 出 版 杂 志 始 终 是 Scabal 亟 待 实 现 读者,预计将于 2012 年 1 月推出 iPad 应用 的 梦 想。2006 年,Scabal 找 到 最 新 广 告 程序。” 合作伙伴,迎来机遇。年轻的布鲁塞尔编 辑 Jérôme Stéfanski 获邀为 Scabal 推出杂 志。 《Bespoken》 由 此 诞 生。Stéfanski 的 确是这项任务的绝佳人选,他曾自创名为 《Together》的杂志,为读者呈现布鲁塞尔 “我们每月还拥有 的欧式生活风情。一年后,他将《Together》 众多线上读者, 出售,加入 Scabal 的内部团队。 奢侈品的现代视角

预计将于 2012 年 1 月 推出 IPAD 应用程序。 ”

杂志创办之初,编辑们面临诸多挑战。杂 Jérôme Stéfanski,主编 志是否应 采用 Scabal 的品牌名称呢?该 用 何种方式实现内容与品牌推广的平衡呢? Stéfanski 表示 : “我们认为,应该采用折中 的方式,保持品牌推广与内容编辑的巧妙 平衡。杂志的主旨不仅要推广 Scabal 品牌, 著名撰稿人 还应引导读者透过现代视角领略奢华的内 杂 志 得 到 著 名 撰 稿 人 的 鼎 力支 持, 确 保 涵。起初,我们一致认同,即使并无商业合 内 容 丰 富, 品 质 一 流, 观 点 权 威, 这 是 作关系,还是应介绍其他男士时尚品牌。撰 《Bespoken》杂志的主要优势之一。Scabal 写有关阿斯顿 • 马丁的文章相对容易,但指 Group 首席执行官 Gregor Thissen 表示 “ :我 明竞争对手却绝非易事。最终,我们还是将 们希望每一篇文章都出自最优秀的撰稿人之 其他品牌纳入杂志内容,尤其重点介绍对 手,在这方面不遗余力。凭借《Bespoken》 时尚贡献卓著的品牌。 ”杂志的发行方面亦 的国际化运作模式,我们与国际撰稿人、时 存挑战。版面奢华的《Bespoken》杂志重达 尚顾问及记者合作,他们均是各自领域的资 400 克,将 50,000 份杂志送往全球各地费用 不菲。因此,Scabal 选择随每季市场推广材 料将《Bespoken》杂志送达零售商、定制服 装店及零售合作伙伴,每年两次,用于在店 铺内展示,供顾客阅读。

深专家。 ”某些情况下,合作撰稿人亦针对 其他领域的话题发表见解,例如公共关系 活动。Thissen 补充道 : “杂志得到美国、亚 洲、中东或欧洲读者的褒奖,令我们深感 欣慰。不少读者订阅全年杂志,充分表明, 《Bespoken》绝非单纯的商业推广读物。杂 志旨在为读者介绍永恒的优雅设计以及定制 奢侈品,知名撰稿人为杂志平添真正的附加 价值。如果没有撰稿人的卓越贡献以及平面 设计公司 Base Design 的创意版面设计,无 论在内容还是 版面效 果方面, 《Bespoken》 都不可能取得如此成功。” 交叉市场推广

借 助《Bespoken》 提 供 的 平 台,Scabal 推 出‘ 《Bespoken》俱乐部’ ,推广奢侈品的现 代视角。通过各种优惠计划和活动邀请,杂 志广告商与 Scabal 共同推广产品。Stéfanski 介绍道 : “客户会邀请他们的客户,这被称 为‘交叉市场推广’ 。例如,邀请客户试驾 新款玛莎 拉蒂 轿车,然后共同品鉴 PiperHeidsieck 香槟佳酿。这种推广方式始于比 利时,现已覆盖欧洲各地。这种方式潜力巨 大,通过店铺、杂志及网络均可开展交叉市 场推广。 ” 展 望 未 来,Scabal 为《Bespoken》 制 定 更 多发 展 计 划。2012 年 9 月, 北 京 首 家 Scabal 专卖店将正式开业, 《Bespoken》亦 会随之进入中国市场。公司还计划进一步 拓展销售渠道,与美国、欧洲和中国的专 业分销商合作,扩大在顶级酒店及私人会 所的业务覆盖。Stéfanski 总结道 : “杂志拥 有巨大发展潜力,但我们时刻铭记,内容 的品质是最核心要素。”

本地魅力

Scabal 注 重 全 球 思 维, 兼 顾 本 地 实 际, 《Bespoken》亦不例外。杂志内容面向全球 各地注重时尚的男士,采用英文编写。前两 期《Bespoken》推出俄文版杂志,主要文章 在网站上提供多语言版本。

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“《Bespoken》俱乐部”活动,与 Scabal Maserati、Remy Martin 及 Piper Heidsieck 合作 © People Attitude


SCA BA L 全球业务

定制服装大师 尽管 FERDINANDO CARACENI 的姓氏在服装界声名远扬,他用最纯粹的方式尊崇服装裁剪传统, 建立属于自己的服装裁剪王朝。 William Kissel

1

Ferdinando Caraceni 在工作室 © F. Caraceni

Nicoletta Caraceni与Sergio d’Angelo,这位服装大师出生于Ortona, 师从Nicoletta之父学习服装裁剪技巧 © F. Caraceni

967 年,Ferdinando Caraceni 在 米 兰 的 Via San Marco 创立了用自己名字命名的裁缝店,当时另有一个与他同 名的意大利服装裁剪品牌,已有六十多年历史,响当当 的名字和 Ferdinando Caraceni 的高超裁剪技艺吸引顾客纷至沓来。 当时的 Caraceni 兄弟(Domenico、Galliano 和 Agostino)更负盛名, 早在 20 世纪初就开创一代服装裁剪王朝,Ferdinando Caraceni 与 其姓氏相同,职业相同,且家乡都在 Ortona a Mare,其实并无亲属 关系,仅在专业领域与传奇的 Caraceni 家族保持密切合作。 双方合作往 来的历史略显复 杂。1938 年,Agostino Caraceni 结 识 16 岁的 青 年 才 俊 Ferdinando Caraceni, 邀 请 他 赴 米 兰 工作。 Ferdinando 在 Agostino 身边 工作近 30 年,Agostino 视 其 犹如爱 子,传授所有意大利定制服装裁剪的技巧。遗憾的是,1967 年, Ferdinando 与 Agostino 之子 Mario Caraceni 未能就继续合作达成 一致,Ferdinando 决定另立门户,继续传承 Agostino Caraceni 的 裁剪风格。众多忠实顾客追随 Ferdinando,尽管分道扬镳令他倍 感痛心,但 Ferdinando 从未忘记 Agostino,始终以“师父”相称。 职业生涯中,Ferdinando 始终尊崇 Agostino 传授的裁剪技巧,努 力保持他在定制服装裁剪行业的声誉经久不衰。 这个意大利服装界的传奇故事拥有命中注定的传奇开始,1923 年 5 月 30 日,Ferdinando Caraceni 在 Ortona 出生, 就在同一 地点, 同一时间,Caraceni 家 族 企 业由创始人 Domenico Caraceni 亲 手 建立。

业内声名远扬,被誉为意大利最出色的裁剪大师之一。Ferdinando Caraceni 拥有精湛的西装裁剪技巧,甚至能在没有图纸辅助的情况 下裁剪服装,只需量出顾客的身形尺寸,就能直接裁剪面料。这种 精准无误的裁剪技巧迅速为 Ferdinando 赢得众多声名显赫的顾客, 包括 Yves Saint Laurent、Diego Della Valle、Prince Sadrudden Aga Khan、Silvio Berlusconi 等 , 他们一贯衣着考究,对服装保持挑剔 的眼光。

“这个意大利服装界的传奇故事 拥有命中注定的传奇开始, 在 FERDINANDO CARACENI 出生的 同一地点、同一时间,CARACENI 家族 企业由创始人 DOMENICO CARACENI 亲手建立。” Nicoletta Caraceni

Nicoletta Caraceni 的父亲 2004 年辞世,此后她成为 Caraceni 裁缝 店的支柱,她说道 : “父亲常对我讲 : ‘要时刻牢记,你是在为声誉 巩固卓越声誉 而工作 ;而不是声誉为你工作’。如今,品牌已成为品质的保证,其 不过,认为 Ferdinando Caraceni 将其他家族的荣耀传统据为己有 实正好相反。 ”她明确表示,父亲毕生都致力于彰显作品的品质内 的批评有失公允。作为服装裁剪大师,他师从 Agostino Caraceni, 涵,而非外在名气。即使在今天,Caraceni 西装从不附加裁缝的签 二十多年的耳濡目染令他获益匪浅,形成自己独有的裁剪风格,在 名,而仅在内衬衣袋里面附上西装主人的名字,简约而低调。

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Ferdinando Caraceni Via San Marco 22/A Milan, Italy 电话:+39.02.655.4284 www.caracenisartoria.net

Caraceni 裁缝店内的 Scabal 面料 © F. Caraceni

CAR ACENI 西装

Ferdinando Caraceni 西装还拥有其他独一无二的特质。Caraceni 对面料的选择和品质十分挑剔,这也正是该品牌与 Scabal 数十 年来保持合作的原因所在。Caraceni 西装通常采用上等英国面料 (意大利面料极少),原因在于,裁缝认为英国面料拥有最卓越的 品质,其特点为腰部及开衩较短,衣袋位置较低,位于腰线附近, 搭配曲线裁剪的翻领,Ferdinando Caraceni 称之为“小肚腩”。尽 管 Caraceni 将双排扣设计视为标志性风格,但仍留有发挥创意的 空间。Nicoletta 表示 : “我们的肩部裁剪通常贴合人体,但不同时 代也有不同风格。肩部裁剪略有演变,但主要受我们的理念变化 影响,与时尚流行趋势无关。”她认为,父亲深谙裁剪之道,能够 凭借现代审美眼光巧妙演绎传统西装裁剪。 “20 世纪 70 年代,我 们的肩部线条略显上扬,犹如马鞍。进入 80 年代,肩部的上扬 更为夸张,增加了约 1 厘米。每过几年,我们的风格都会有所改 变。”她介绍道。不过,为确保最卓越的品质和最一流的合体效果, 每件 Caraceni 西装仍坚持现场裁剪,完全手工打造。正因如此, Caraceni 裁缝店秉承传统,每年的成衣产量不足 400 套。 业务前景

Nicoletta 出生在服装裁剪世家,服装裁剪就是生活的一切要义所 在,她说道 : “父亲坚持认为,我不应继续扩大业务规模,在父亲 看来,与其大量生产不尽合体的产品,不如做好数量有限的精品。” 不过,她自己并没有成为裁缝。她与顾客维系融洽关系,保持至今, 用裁缝的眼光完善经营中的各种细节。裁缝店内有十位裁剪师傅 和裁缝,不少人已在这里工作超过 25 年,Nicoletta 固执己见,一 如其父,她有时会要求裁缝重做衣领、重做袖口、重缝扣眼,时常 令裁缝感到为难。Nicoletta 对自己说服他人的能力颇有信心 : “如 果有些方面我认为需要改进,裁缝们往往显得不太情愿。”但她坚 持认为 : “为秉承父亲坚守的卓越品质,保留一定程度的权威确有 必要。”

Ferdinando Caraceni 的顾客评价 © F. Caraceni

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永恒优 雅

链扣 回归 Scabal 推出的 白金钻石链扣 – 限量版 撰文:Jérôme Stéfanski 对男士而言,佩戴首饰的机会寥寥无几,设 计巧妙的链扣往往倍受欢迎。链扣最早出现 在 19 世纪,替代用丝带打结收紧袖口的古老 方法。20 世纪 70 年代,在成衣革命时期, 线缝纽扣迅速替代链扣。Scabal 最新链扣系 列设计师 Olivier Vander Slock 说道 : “如今, 人们又重拾对链扣的兴趣。这一群体不仅包 括私人银行家、时尚新贵和新郎,还包括所 有注重优雅和出众魅力的男士。 ”该流行趋 势还与双袖头衬衫的回归密不可分,双袖头 衬衫被视为最正式的衬衫。 Scabal 曾推出钻石点缀与 Super 150 羊毛搭 配的 Diamond Chip 系列,近期,为庆祝该

系列的十周年纪念,Scabal 特别推出独一无 二的白金和钻石链扣系列。该系列链扣绝无 仅有,由安特卫普世界钻石中心认证珠宝商 在比利时设计,全手工打造。链扣采用 18K 白金和 0.65 克拉钻石,色泽 F 级,净度 V 级。 该系列仅根据订单生产,制作周期 15 个工作 日,面向全球发售。 为秉承量身定制的个性化理念,Scabal 还 提供镌刻服务,可在链扣上镌刻主人的姓 名缩写。 顾客可通 过 www.scabal.com/shop 网站订购,或亲自前往位于伦敦 Savile Row 的 Scabal 旗舰店。

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3 , 490

SCABAL 读者统计

www.Bespoken.com 提供《Bespoken》杂志网络版,该数字为每月 在线浏览杂志的平均读者数。 撰文 :Nigel Bishop

10 IPAD 大奖 等您来拿! 您是否还没有购买 iPad,但也 想利用 iPad 阅读喜爱的杂志? 为庆祝《Bespoken》第十期出版, Scabal 提供十台 iPad 大奖,随 赠 Scabal 独家设计的真皮折叠保 护套。快试试运气吧,请至 www.Bespoken.com/competition 并回答下列问题 : 1 自《Bespoken》五年前创刊以来, 已经出版了多少期? —— 五期 —— 十期 —— 四期 Scabal 推出的真皮折叠保护套,用于放置最新《Bespoken》杂 志及 iPad。该限量版产品仅通过 www.scabal.com/shop 网站销售 © Scabal

Scabal 首席执行官 Gregor Thissen 表示 “ :鉴 阅读的是印刷版杂志,也能找到特殊标志, 于该读者数,我们主要有两方面的考虑。较 引导读 者观看 线上视频。”该 应 用程 序也 之提供线上版本的其他杂志和报纸,该设计 为 Scabal 合作伙伴提供良机,与读者分享 可能略显尺寸较小。另一方面,我们并非出 和产品相关的多媒体资讯。Stéfanski 补充 版机构, 《Bespoken》杂志也完全由内部编 道 : “ 对于和 Scabal 价值 观相同的奢侈品 写,这也是我们的特色之一。此外,这是一 牌,与其合作 始终是《Bespoken》的主要 本面向消费者的杂志,虽然我们尽可能提供 目标。在 iPad 应用程序的帮助下,卡地亚、 客观的资讯,但我们同时也借此平台推广自 Piper Heidsieck 或玛莎拉蒂等著名品牌能 己的产品。基于上述原因,我们认为,每月 为读者提供更多资讯,形式独具创意,为 3,490 位线上读者的成绩值得肯定,为答谢 传统广告页面提供有益补充。我们近期通过 所有读者的关注,我们特意推出此款专业线 《The Economist》的 iPad 应用程序发布广 上工具。 ” 告,效果喜人!我们能够通过直接链接与读 者互动,这是与每位读者建立个人沟通的全 新方式。” 适合所有读者的 IPAD 应用程序 自 2012 年 1 月 15 日 开 始, 为 满 足 读 者 使 近期,Android 版本的应用程序亦将发布。 用 平 板 电 脑 浏 览《Bespoken》 杂 志 的 需 Stéfanski 表 示 : “该 市场在不断演 变之中, 求,Scabal 将推出 iPad 应用程序。为庆祝 我们绝不愿错失良机! 杂志第十期出版,在 2012 年 8 月之前,该 应 用程 序 完 全 免费。 读 者可通 过 iTunes、 Scabal.com 及 Bespoken.com 下载。 《Bespoken》 主 编 Jérôme Stéfanski 表 示: “全新应用程序带来的既有挑战也有机 遇。该程 序将增加杂志的全 球 读 者人 数, 杂志内容也 将 得 到 扩 充。 在本期杂志中, 我们为文章上传部分视频链接,读者即使

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2 《Bespoken》杂志的名称源自 “bespoke”一词,是指一种独具 特色的英国制衣方式,用传统 方法量身定制手工西装。 “bespoke”一词源自哪里? —— 伦敦 —— 巴黎 —— 米兰

3 在 2012 年 1 月 15 日至 7月 15 日之间, 预计会有多少人参与此次竞猜?

此次免费竞猜有效期为2011年 9月15日至 2012 年 7 月 15 日。我们将与获奖者直接联络。


独家收 藏

收纳 杂志的 潮流方式 Scabal 推出创意非凡且独具魅 力的 Tablemag 设计,满足读 者订购《Bespoken》前十期限 量版的需求。 撰文:Jérôme Stéfanski

随附 《BESPOKEN》 前十期的 TABLEMAGS 设计,仅有十套

Tablemag 设计,随附十期 Scabal 出版的《Bespoken》杂志,仅通过 www.scabal.com/shop 发售 © Scabal

是 收 集 并 展 示《B esp ok en》 杂 志 的 绝 佳 方 式, 优 雅 超 乎 想 象! Ta bl e m a g 是 令人 耳目一 新 的 家 具设 计, 出自 A ntoi net te R i ba s 之手, 他 在 广告行 业 担任艺 术 总 监 近 十 年, 不断寻 找 创 意 解 决 方 案, 令 生 活 更 轻 松 惬 意。“ 我 有 些 上 瘾, 常 购 买 很 多 制 作 精 美 的 杂 志, 由 于不 知 如 何 收 纳 整 理, 总是 苦 恼 不已。 将 杂 志 悬 挂 起 来 是 最自然、 实 用 且美 观 的展 示 方 式。”R i ba s 介 绍 道。 该设 计 纯 粹简约, 功 能 实用, 迎 合多种 室内装 潢 风 格。 此 外, Ta bl e m a g 由比 利时一家小型传统 工作室 纯手工打造。“ 由于限 量 发售, 寻 找 理 想的 制 造商并非 易事, 历经 艰苦的找寻, 终于 遇 到一位理 想的工艺品大师, 他能 立刻理 解 我的设计构思。 在 技 术方面, 仅 用一整 张 钢板制作桌子 带 来巨 大 挑 战, 但我们想 方 设 法 将 其 实 现。 我 希望 这 款 设 计 造 价 合 理, 同 时 利 用限 量 发 售 和 高 度 针对 性 的 分 销渠 道 彰显其专属 尊贵,”R i ba s 补充 道 : “ 正因如此,S c a ba l 与我商谈 合作, 着 实令我 欣喜 不已。 该品牌代 表卓越品质和锐 意创新, 这两大价值 观 正 是我作品的象 征。” 仅提供十件随赠前十期《Bespoken》的 Tablemags 设计。每张桌子的侧面都有编号及 《Bespoken》标志,还提供主人姓名缩写镌刻服务,与 Scabal 量身定制西装提供的内衬 绣字服务一样。此款独一无二的收藏品仅通过 www.scabal.com/shop 销售

颜色 :黑色或白色 尺寸 :高 /35cm – 宽 /120cm – 长 /55cm 随赠前十期《Bespoken》的桌子价格 :950 欧元 全球运费 :150 欧元

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特 别献 礼

《THE TAILOR AND CUTTER》杂志 借此机会向最具影响力的定制服装裁剪杂志表达敬意,令《BESPOKEN》倍感荣幸。 撰文:Eric Musgrave 1866 年以来的 100 多年里,在 全球定制服装裁剪行业, 《The Tailor and Cutter》杂志一直 是 引导潮流的风向标。该杂志最 早 创 刊 于 伦 敦 Covent Garden 区 的 Drury Lane,1902 年 迁 往 Soho 地 区 Gerrard Street 42–43 号,位于现今伦敦的唐人街区 核心。 杂志编辑部位于一座五层建筑内,外部 有《The Tailor》 杂志的著名标志, 出自文 艺复兴艺 术家 Giovanni Battista Moroni 之 手。这里不仅是杂志的总部所在,亦是著名 的裁缝师与裁剪师学院(Tailor and Cutter Academy)所在,在定制服装领域,该教学 机构在全球首屈一指,久负盛名。世界各地 的优秀服装裁剪从业者通过严格选拔进入 该学院深造,学习最经典的服装裁剪、量 体及缝纫技巧。 对 于 财 力 不足 的 求 学 者, 学 院 还 借 助 《The Tailor and Cutter》杂志分享各种资讯 及技巧,该 杂志备受 青睐,被奉为“业内 圣经”。

据本季流行趋势,我们注意到,长大衣裁 剪风格日趋受到名流雅士的青睐,此类男 士品味出众,值得仿效。” “我们的使命是, 《The Tailor and Cutter》在二战后迎来辉 用华美高雅的文字 煌顶峰,在传 奇主编 John Taylor 执 掌下, 讲述服装裁剪技巧, 该杂志拥有约 20,000 订阅读者,曾组织大 型全国服装裁剪竞赛,还举办每年一度的 为所有裁缝师服务。” 展 会, 成 为英国定制服 装界的 重 要 盛 会。 《The Tailor and Cutter》序言, 组织者针对不同类型的定制服装设立 14 个 第四卷,1868 - 1869 不同类别的奖项。 “Dandy”金奖由皇室御 用 珠 宝 大 师 Garrards 颁 发。 《The Tailor and Cutter》一直存续至 20 世纪 70 年代初, 受成衣大行其道的影响,定制裁剪师和裁 名人照片用作“模特”,在 1870 年至 1871 年 缝师的客户市场锐减。 间出版的杂志上,经常能看到社会名流身穿 如 今, 秉 承《T and C》 杂 志 的 精 神, 新款服装的图案,例如威尔士王子(后来的 《Bespoken》与 Scabal 共同继承荣耀传统, 爱德华七世) 、W.E. Gladstone(英国首相)、 为品位出众的男士服务,为技巧过人的裁缝 Charles Dickens、Benjamin Disraeli、 法 国 师和裁剪师服务。 拿破仑三世、普鲁士 Count Bismarck、西班 牙国王以及俄国沙皇。 如今, 《Bespoken》提供线上版本和 iPad 应 用 程 序, 但《The Tailor and Cutter》 能 利用自己的方式在最短时间内发布伦敦的最 执着专注的出版物 新流行趋势。在 1869 年 10 月 2 日出版的第 《The Tailor and Cutter》通常每周出版,有 156 期,题为 :Double Breasted Chesterfield 时也会每月出版,始终致力于发扬经典定制 (双排扣长大衣)的文章向读者透露 : “根 裁剪传统。该杂志的内容兼收并蓄,可谓技 术性刊物、商业新闻杂志、时尚发布刊物及 杂评刊物的融合。该杂志提供独具权威的 《The Tailor and Cutter》全部期刊共 116 卷,从 1868 年至 1969 年,藏于英国曼彻斯特 裁剪技巧图片,备受读者推崇,还介绍各类 的 The Gallery of Costume。为妥善保存该宝贵资源,Scabal 提供资金,完成大量散装 图样,供读者仿效,当然,有些读者也会有 杂志的装订工作。为纪念《T&C》杂志,位于 Savile Row 12 号的 Scabal 旗舰店近期举 不同见解。杂志的读者来函专栏为各种意见 办招待酒会及展览。活动邀请多位伦敦著名裁剪大师出席, 《T&C》杂志曾在他们心中 留下珍贵回忆。Scabal 伦敦总部的裁剪总监 Terry Brown 对该杂志的印象尤为深刻, 的交锋提供平台。 44 年前,正是因为看到《The Tailor and Cutter》上的广告,他才开始了在定制服装领 照片在出版物上大行其道之前, 《T&C》利 域的职业生涯。 用雕版图案技术在杂志上呈现最新造型风 格(包括男装及女装)。编辑们有时也会将

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1879

1889

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1961 年 12 月 29 日的《Tailor & Cutter》杂志介绍 Scabal 的文章

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曼彻斯特 Gallery of Costume 提供杂志图片

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诱惑

重塑经典 当设计师与工艺大师决定为经典注入现代元素时,了解过去理应成为开创未来的第一步。 《BESPOKEN》精选最具魅力的定制奢侈品,设计灵感均源自该趋势。 撰文:Jérôme Stéfanski

1

此款定制模型彰显怀旧与激情的水乳交融,用现代手法演绎 20 世 纪 20 年代竞赛摩托车的风貌。混合传统结构实现理想的燃油积极 性和出色性能,每一款 Derringer 摩托车均为定制打造,提供多种 个性化调教选择,例如纯铜铆钉、手工真皮车座以及无炭黑材料的 白色车胎。 请向经销商索取具体售价 www.derringercycles.com

2

该设计出自美国设计师 Matt Richmond 的创意,由 Made Craft 打造, 此款复古风格的 iPod & iPhone 音箱采用核桃木底座,黑色喇叭由 著名音响专业品牌 Magnavox 打造。机械结构功放系统自行供电, 无需任何外接电源。该产品仅根据订单生产,纯手工打造,制作周 期六至八周。时间就是一种奢侈。 价格 :400 欧元 www.made-craft.com

3 历史上,个性化的图章戒指一直是彰显高贵与皇室血统的重要方 式,这种戒指亦被称为“Code Royal”。尽管时代变迁,在追求彰显 个性魅力和出众品位的珠宝方面,人们的欲望显得更为强烈。Code Royal 为现代时尚男女的首饰赋予独特个性魅力。该设计采用品质 最上乘的材料,由德国一流金匠打造,提供 20,000 种个性选择, 您定能找到一款心仪的图章戒指。您还可以寄送家族徽章或公司标 志,将图案雕刻在石头上,从而拥有真正独一无二的戒指。 “青蛙”图章黄金戒指 :1,390 欧元 www.code-royal.com

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MASERATI GRANCABRIO SPORT. ELEVATE THE EXPERIENCE Forget everything you once knew. The new GranCabrio Sport will expand the horizons of those who seek a seductive looking, four-seater cabrio but who also want to enjoy a sportier ride with dynamic handling. The GranCabrio Sport expresses this sporty edge in its detailing: the side spoilers, black oval exhaust pipes, new Astro design rims in Silver or Anthracite Grey, the M-design seats and the new leather tints. Completing the look is the ‘Rosso Trionfale’ colour for the exterior, a hue that stirs the emotions. The Maserati GranCabrio Sport is a unique car. It appeals to all the senses to provide an all-round driving experience. Visit www.maserati.com for a close-up look at the GranCabrio Sport. To find out more about the ‘Maserati GranCabrio Sport’ world, just scan the QR Code using the camera on your smartphone. For more information on QR codes, see: mobi.maserati.com V8 4691 CC ENGINE – MAXIMUM POWER OUTPUT: 450 BHP AT 7000 RPM – MAXIMUM TORQUE: 510 NM AT 4750 RPM – MAXIMUM SPEED: 285 KM/H - 0-100 KM/H ACCELERATION: 5.2 SECONDS COMBINED CYCLE CONSUMPTION: 15.23 L/100 KM - CO2 EMISSIONS: 354 G/KM

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.MASERATI.COM


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www.pldw.be Bruxelles | Antwerpen | Hasselt | Liège | Namur | Sint-Martens-Latem | Waregem


未知疆 土

重走 丝绸之路 丝绸之路是连接亚洲与欧洲的贸易通道,历史意义举足轻重,丝绸是当时最主 要的商品之一。毋庸置疑,喀什在丝绸之路上拥有重要地位,这座城市至今保 留商业枢纽的氛围,但似乎已被 21 世纪遗忘…… 文字和图片:Bruno Morandi

喀什美丽的自然风景

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喀什的市井生活

们穿越西域的崇山峻岭接 近曾经的“中王国” ,喀 什看上去如此之小。背后 是高耸入云的雪山,吉普 车沿帕米尔山坡下行,经 过宁谧的卡拉 库里湖高 地,终于到达这个位于中亚的集市。前往喀 什绝非易事,这里没有直达的国际航班,国 内中转航班也寥寥无几。似乎中国的经济“奇 迹”还没有影响到如此偏远的城市。 喀什是中国新疆省最偏远的城市。继续向 西,就是中亚地区众多前苏联加盟共和国, 在古代丝绸之路,这里是客商必须停留的 驿站,是东西方文明的交汇之地,喀什所 在的绿洲恰好位于炙热的塔克拉玛干沙漠 与冰风刺骨的喜马拉雅山之间。清王朝的 满族皇帝将疆土扩大至这个穆斯林聚居地, 以往这里的主要人口是使用突厥语的维吾 尔族。 在殖民帝国时代,喀什成为“大博弈”的 中心,这里遍布俄国沙皇或英属印度帝国的 便衣爪牙。原英国和俄国领事馆现已成为中 式宾馆,但建筑周围的花园仍保留 19 世纪 的氛围。 色满宾馆门外就是熙熙攘攘的集市。这里 的摊位出售无花果和西瓜,一如 Rudyard Kipling 在小说中描述的场景,三个蓄须男 子身穿黑色长袍,理发师也剃光头发加入 其中。这里的公司通常根据宗教和家族门

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派成立,这在东方集市司空见惯,帽商叫 卖各种款式时尚的帽子,还有铁匠、刀匠和 干果商,女人身穿闪亮的丝绸服装。和田位 于喀什东部,一个多世纪来以生产丝绸闻 名,这里仍保留传统的养殖方式,用古老 的织机纺线并制作丝绸。午餐时间,这里 的餐厅美食飘香,缭绕的烟火与米饭羊肉 的香气交织在一起,面条是人们的盘中美 食,毋庸置疑,这里就是意大利面的起源, 马可波罗功不可没! 艾提尕尔清真寺有外墙为黄色的双塔,位 于古城的中心。在这座维吾尔城市的中心, 狭窄的街道布满尘土,建筑材料主要是砖 块和土坯。有些小巷在小屋的遮蔽之下,有 些则干脆是死胡同,刚放学的孩子们在小 水塘旁嬉戏,母亲们面戴浅色纱巾,本地 馕店用陶土烤炉制作芝麻烤馕。这时,汉 族旅行团来到这里,他们利用各种机会拍 照,希望留下旅行回忆。在喀什,星期天 是赶集日。黎明时分,各地农民汇集到集市, 有女人、孩子、还有耕牛,牲畜 市场立刻 变得熙攘喧嚣,让人找回昔日丝绸之路的 影子……

如何前往喀什? 主要航空公司有直达北京的航班。到达北京后,可选 择海南航空的班机前往乌鲁木齐,然后再转机至喀 什。计划行程前,请联络中国使馆,新疆地区有时政 治局势紧张,进入该地区可能有危险。

入住选择 喀什色满宾馆 中国新疆 喀什色满路 17 号 邮编 :844000 电话 :0998-2582129

气温 一月 -6°

五月 20°

九月 19°

二月 -1°

六月 24°

十月 12°

三月 8°

七月 26°

十一月 4°

四月 15°

八月 24°

十二月 -4°


SCABAL 的 丝绸 丝绸采用蚕茧制成,蚕在桑树上生长,吐丝化蛹形成蚕茧。丝绸制 造技术可追溯至公元前 2,500 年,源自中国。在公元 560 年以前,丝 绸制造技术一直没有外传,工艺流程主要包括 :从桑树上采摘蚕茧, 放入沸水中用小棍搅拌,提取蚕丝,然后在冷却过程中固化。生产 一公斤丝绸至少需要十公斤蚕茧。经过纺织后,三角形的纤维能像 棱镜一样反光,令丝绸呈现天然的华丽生辉的质感。天然丝绸与人 造丝绸不可混为一谈,人造丝绸主要有三种 :粘胶纤维、彭帛和醋 酸纤维素。 丝绸细腻、顺滑且光泽出众。丝绸是一种极为脆弱的纤维,加 工时必须倍加小心。丝绸轻盈柔软,是制作内衣、领带、围巾及礼 服的绝佳面料。丝绸还可与羊毛搭配,用于制作修身上衣和西装。 Scabal 采用的丝绸均为 100% 纯天然丝绸,还采用另一种极为名贵 的 Doupion 丝绸,或称之为野生蚕丝。该丝绸原料产自印度的班加 罗尔,在意大利纺织,源自双丝蚕茧的不规则丝线,Doupion 丝绸 的不规则特性充分证明其独特魅力及纯正品质。

在殖民帝国时代, 喀什成为“大博弈”的中心

天然蚕茧

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支 持教 育

SCABAL 为何支持顶级纺织品 领域的 Biella Master 计划 Scabal 至今仍在英国 Huddersfield 自产面料,该地区出产最上乘 面料,享誉全球,这一英伦传统令我们倍感骄傲。不过,如 果其他国家也有值得称道的发展计划,Scabal 同样愿意伸 出援手。 让我们摒弃“英国制造”与“意大利制造”之争吧。 撰文:Jérôme Stéfanski Biella 是位于意大利皮埃蒙特区北部的小城 市,在制造顶级纺织品方面,这里秉承十 分悠久的传统。1245 年,Biella 本地法令已 经提及羊毛工匠和纺织工匠行会,这并不意 外,该地区坐拥高山牧场和充沛水资源,既 适合清洗羊毛,又能为小作坊提供水力。 “Biella Master”计 划旨在世代传承 工艺 经验、管理技巧和企业经营方面的“专业 传统”, 这是 Biella 地 区纺织 和服 装 行业 的重要组成部分。该计划旨在吸引天赋异 禀且曾接受良好教育的青年才俊进入纺织 行业,推动该行业的不断发展,继续引领 传统优势。该计划始于 1986 年,源自纺织 业 企 业 家 Luciano Barbera 的 构 想, 他 在 纺织行业成功推广该计划。1989 年 10 月, 首 期“Master” 课 程 开 始。 此 后, “Biella Master”的影响力不断扩大,引起国际 纺 织业界的关注。 定义与目标

“Biella Master delle Fibre Nobili” (字面意思 为“顶级纺织品领域的比耶拉大师”称号) 是业内独一无二的资格认证,最基本的课程 内容为“纺织大师讲座”。讲师不仅是教育 专业人士,还是业内的高级经理人,年轻一 代将通过学习了解纺织和零售领域的专业知 识,然后选择适合自身情况的职业定位,开 创事业未来。 如今, “Biella Master”已吸引 100 多个赞 助机构,其中不乏零售行业的领先企业以及 全国和跨国集团。赞助机构发挥至关重要的 作用,不仅在经济方面提供支援,在讲师方 面亦鼎力相助,为学生在实习期内提供全面 专业培训。 奖学金

每年,Biella Master 入学测试的通告会在意 大利全国各地高校发布。该机构还在最具影 响力的全国性报纸上刊登广告,让更多潜在

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考生得到消息。严格的筛选过程之后, 仅有少数学员有资格参与初级课程, 持续一个月。教学采用“全方位浸入” 模式,学生有机会与 Biella Master 赞助 企业的企业家和经理人近距离接触,完 成各类测试,为最后面试做好准备,从而 决定是否被录取。 Master 课程持续 12 个月,包括一系列重 要的教学活动,实习持续二至五周,以逻 辑顺序涵盖纺织行业的各个环节,包括精 梳、染 色、纺纱、设计、编织、整 饰、裁 剪、缝纫以及制成品最终销售。实习结束时, 每位学生都必须编写报告,与导师探讨,以 评估其所学知识的水平。课程期间,所有 Master 学生以参加重要活动,在欧洲、中 国、新西兰、澳大利亚、美国和日本获得国 际经验,每位学生可得到 10,000 欧元奖学 金,作为旅行资金。 为该计划投资的企业均希望借此获得竞 争优势,Scabal 有幸成为其中一员。 欲了解更多资讯,请浏览 : www.biellamaster.it

顶级纺织品 Biella Master 计划创始人 兼主席 Luciano Barbera


绅 士会 晤

生于英伦 享誉全球 最新谍战影片《TINKER, TAILOR, SOLDIER, SPY》大获成功。 《BESPOKEN》借 此机会走近为该片做出贡献的艺术家们。曾获奥斯卡奖的演员 COLIN FIRTH 是其 中之一,SCABAL 是他钟情的品牌,还包括裁缝师 TIMOTHY EVEREST,他为影 片设计多款演出服装,彰显 100%纯正英伦风情。

A. Colin FIRTH

B. Timothy EVEREST

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绅 士会 晤

A. Colin FIRTH 撰文:Federico Grandesso

在推广 Oxfam 咖啡贸易展的广告宣传中, Colin Firth 摒弃传统的英式优雅风格 © Oxfam Fair Trade Division

他开创先河

《TINKER, TAILOR, SOLDIER, SPY》:谍战影片的灵魂之作

Colin Firth 是 耀目的英国电 影明星, 他 在 威 尼斯电 影节(2009) 该片根据英国作家 John Le Carré 于 1974 年出版的小说改编,讲述 上 荣 获 Volpi Cup 最 佳 男 演 员 奖, 在 Tom Ford 执 导 的 影 片 扣人心弦的真实故事。 《007》或《Mission Impossible》这样的大制 《A Single Man》中,他表现出众,获得奥斯卡提名,他还凭借在 作电影拥有奢华的场景、炫目的爆炸效果以及美貌出众的女演员, 影片《The King’s Speech》中的精彩表演捧得奥斯卡奖。Firth 在 该片与之截然不同。这部电影中的人物极为真实,影片突出对人物 剧场开始演艺生涯,其后曾在影片《The English Patient》(1996) 、 的心理刻画,营造肃穆阴郁的氛围,情节严谨,勾勒各个人物内心 《Shakespeare in Love》(1998)、 《Bridget Jones’s Diary》(2001)、 的孤独。 《The Importance of Being Earnest》(2002)以及《Then She Found 故事发生在 1973 年,冷战令国际关系不断恶化,英国情报机构 Me》 (2007) (Helen Hunt 执导)中担任配角。获得出演主角的机会 M16 不遗余力地开展各类情报工作。该情报部门主管被称为首脑 成为他事业的转折点。 (John Hurt 扮演),亲自将情报人员 Jim Prideaux(Mark Strong 扮 Colin 在私人生活中保持低调,他与意大利制片人兼导演 Livia 演)送往匈牙利执行任务。但 Jim 在布达佩斯的任务横生枝节,首 Giuggioli 结婚,在伦敦和意大利生活(他还学习意大利语) ,有 脑与他的顶头上司 George Smiley(Gary Oldman 扮演)不得不直 两个儿子 Luca(2001 年 3 月出生)和 Matteo(2003 年 8 月出生) 。 接参与行 动。副部长 Oliver Lacon(Simon McBurney 扮演)召见 他与 加 拿 大 裔 美国演员 Meg Tilly 还 有一 个儿子 William Joseph Smiley,要求他秘密重新出山,为政府工作,有传言称,英国情报 (1990 年出生) 。与众多著名电影明星一样,Colin 经常参与社交及 部门存在内鬼,听命于苏联,危及英国安全。 政治活动,例如,他曾参与 Oxfam 全球展会活动,该活动亦吸引 其他社会名流加入,阻止驱逐寻求庇护者。在政治方面,他起初支 到底谁是内鬼? 持工党,后又支持自民党,目前,他不再支持任何政治党派。 是野心勃勃的 Percy Alleline(Toby Jones 扮演) ,代号锅匠 ;信心 凭借在影片《A Single Man》中的精彩表演,他的英式优雅魅力 满 满 的 Bill Haydon(Colin Firth 扮 演), 代号 裁 缝 ;意 志坚 定的 赢得国际媒体的赞誉,2011 年 4 月, 《Time》杂志将 Firth 列为全球 Roy Bland(Ciarán Hinds 扮演) ,代号士兵 ;殷勤的 Toby Esterhase 100 位最具影响力人物之一。出演《Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy》之后, (David Dencik 扮演) ,代号穷人,还是 Smiley 自己…… Colin Firth 将与 Cameron Diaz、Alan Rickman 及 Stanley Tucci 合作, 出演 Michael Hoffman 执导的喜剧片。

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独家专访 《BESPOKEN》:1979 年的迷你连续剧中,SIR ALEC GUINNESS 已 经 扮 演 过 您 塑 造 的人

该片具有鲜明的欧洲特点,在您看来,如果由好 莱坞拍摄该片,效果是否截然不同?

Colin Firth :有些时候,好莱坞一词甚至 Gary Oldman :那天最后,我仿佛找到了 Sir 成为影片商业色彩的代名词。我认为好莱坞 Alec 的影子,随后我用经典的方式演绎了这 电影也有自身的魅力元素,我不喜欢过于偏 个角色,因为历史上不只有一个汉姆雷特或李 激的观点。这部影片亦有好莱坞制作团队的 尔王。在电话中得知有机会出演汉姆雷特时, 加入,我不喜欢将好莱坞的流行元素与严 我感觉自己能诠释这个角色非常幸运,我立 肃的经典风格对立的观点,实际情况更为复 刻就想到以往曾扮演汉姆雷特的所有著名演 杂。我无法设想其他团队制作这部影片的效 员,原本对自己能力的质疑和恐惧早已置之度 果,但目前的效果令我非常满意。 外。应该说,重新演绎迷你连续剧中相同的 场景和台词感觉十分美妙。 这部影片中的间谍与维基解密和全球新闻是否 物。您对此有何感想 ?

两小时内呈现故事的复杂内容以及重新构建 那个时期是最大的问题。我很享受重现特定 历史的过程,展现当时的各种社会风貌,将 这一时期与我幼年生活进行对比十分有趣, 这仿佛是对自己的回忆进行考古分析。

存在某种联系?

Colin Firth :维 基 解 密与这 部电 影 无 关 您对此类主题有兴趣吗? (大笑) ,但我认为在冷战时期,正如 John le Colin Firth :我们做的很多工作都是从未 Carré 在作品中所述,有人极力渴求或隐藏 知开始,这类主题起初显得并不容易理解, 的信息只是冷战的一部分,但这种信息可能 这反倒激发了我的兴趣,后来我努力尝试不 很快就变得毫无价值,如果要在这两个世界 同的理解方式。起初,这个故事的神秘色彩 中建立关联,其实问题不过是在泥土中挖掘 令我着迷,我对间谍以及这个领域一无所 寻找。 知。开始逐渐了解故事主题后,我意识到, 尽管这是部谍战电影,但与人物面对的人文 原版迷你电视剧带给您怎样的启发? 问题息息相关,与日常生活亦关联密切。故 电影 导 演 Tomas A lfredson :1979 年, 该 事情节比我想象得更贴近现实生活。这种特 剧在瑞典播放,我曾观看,记得当时该剧倍 点令我兴趣浓厚,其重要性甚至超出形成全 受欢迎,几乎万人空巷。之后我再次观看该 新的表演风格,尽管对这种风格的追求起初 剧,用其深入探究故事的复杂讲述结构,然 令我痴迷不已。 后又将自己从中剥离,因为我想与众不同。在 出演谍战影片感觉如何?

“我们做的很多事 都从未知开始” Colin Firth

《TINKER, TAILOR, SOLDIER, SPY》: 优雅而传统的服装,出自英国裁缝师 Timothy Everest 之手 Colin Firth -左,Gary Oldman -右 © Focus Features

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B. Timothy EVEREST 撰文:James Sherwood 离经叛道

从裁缝店到大银幕 :自信十足

Timothy Everest 是英式定制裁剪领域的异类,亦是同时代裁缝师 “Gary Oldman 的演出服装是近期我最得意的作品,在 2011 根据 中天赋异禀的才俊,他将 Savile Row 风格的品质、工艺及考究裁剪 John Le Carre 小说改编的谍战影片《Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy》中, 与全球化趋势相容,在亚洲的成衣业务大获成功,与英国著名品牌 他的演出服就是出自我手。Gary 认为,这套西装是体现人物特点的 玛莎百货合作,还为经典电影推出演出服装。在 Everest 看来 : “定 关键。服装已经成为人物的组成部分。著名演员往往对人物服装有 制是我所有工作的核心。我们的工作表明,定制裁剪对所有人都不 鲜明的主见。 《Tinker, Tailor》的故事背景在 70 年代,我积极重现 可或缺。对客户及我们而言,定制裁剪的过程令人倍感满足,其他 当年流行的面料特点,在精纺毛料中加入一些点缀,给整体线条更 任何工作都难以媲美。 ” 好地支撑,彰显 70 年代办事员西装的裁剪风格。Gary Oldman 和 Everest 的做派有些离经叛道。 “有人问我,在 Savile Row 领域, Benedict Cumberbatch 在影片中的演出服最出色。有一件 Gary 的 我对自己是何种定位,我觉得自己处于中间的白色线条附近。 ”他 西装被人借走,爱不释手,这是最令人愉悦的褒奖。 ” 说: “我很 欣 赏 Henry Poole 和 Huntsman。 我 欣 赏 Richard James 他补充道 : “巧合的是,为影片《Tinker Tailor》设计服装的思路 和 Ozwald Boateng。我们处于中间地带。 ”Everest 一直秉承已故大 与我们上季的设计思路不谋而合 :腰部更简练,肩部更突出,衣领 师 Tommy Nutter 不落窠臼的传统,在 Tommy 事业处于巅峰时期的 更宽大。我们将自己的风格多少与影片相互融合。尽管部分元素并 80 年代末,Everest 一直跟随 Tommy 学徒。1991 年,他看中位于 不符合时代特点,但却突出了人物特色。例如,我为 Ralph Fiennes 伦敦东区 Spitalfields 地区 Princelet Street 上的破旧房子。他从实际 在新影片中的形象设计服装。我们很清楚他对人物形象的期望,但 考虑,决定脱离Savile Row 经典风格 “ :我选择属于自己的职业道路, 我在服装中加入巧妙装饰元素,取消前部边缘,令外套更有型,尽 不愿再重蹈覆辙。二十年前,在 90 年代初,很多人都推崇设计师定 管不易发觉,但为服装注入更多现代色彩。” 制服装和品牌。我认为应该创造全手工服装的愉悦,推出永恒的作 “我认为《Tinker Tailor》能激发其他人的灵感,这是从 2011 年 品。我们专为逾越时尚趋势的群体打造服装,注入具有现代感且充 审美视角出发诠释 70 年代服装裁剪的代表之作。该特色与 Ralph 满活力的英伦元素,为传统裁剪注入全新魅力。 ” Lauren 为《The Great Gatsby》 (1974)设计的服装有异曲同工之妙。 我欣赏这些西装设计,但并不符合 20 年代的特点。 注重设计的裁缝师,而非注重裁剪技巧的时尚设计师 Ralph Lauren 用 70 年代的浪漫视角诠释 20 年代风情。 Everest 彰显 全 新 裁 剪风 格, 吸引顾 客选 择 定 制 服 装, 而非 在 Comme des Garcons、Paul Smith 或 Martin Margiela 选 购 成 衣。 他坚持认为,裁缝师应注重设计,不应成为注重裁剪技巧的时尚 设计师。与 Spencer Hart 或 Boateng 不同的是,他没有过分强调 自己的风格,Everest 主要根据顾客喜好,既能像 Henry Poole 一 样风 格 传统, 也能像导师 Tommy Nutter 一样 推 陈出新。 如今, Everest 在 东区 Elder Street 的 乔 治亚 时代 工作 室和西 区 Bruton Place 的工作室开展业务。2011 年,他为 Mick Jagger 出席格莱美 颁奖典礼制作服装,该系列限量发售,融入独具英伦风情的配饰, 还与韩国品牌 Cambridge Members 合作,并为英国电影最著名的 连锁机构定制服装。 Everest 推出独具青春气息的 Bespoke Casual 系列,或许是他在 在影片《TINKER, TAILOR, 现代定制裁剪领域最具挑战的创新。Bespoke Casual 是 Everest 的 SOLDIER, SPY》中,GARY OLDMAN 的 突破性设计理念,融入图案华丽的面料,均出自全球顶级纺织厂, 其定制设计充分彰显过人创意与时尚特色。谈及自己在定制领域的 演出服是我最得意之作。GARY 认为, 未来时,Everest 表示 : “在我看来,裁缝要完成的工作并不仅仅是 这套服装成为展现人物性格的关键。 做出外套。我们考虑的是形成定制系列。如果顾客能感觉到是自己 Timothy Everest 在拿主意,我会非常开心。顾客应该是设计的主导。这是定制服装 的真正美感所在。”如果 Everest 的顾客能发挥主导,他应该就是交 响乐队的指挥。

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英国裁缝师 Timothy Everest

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与之类似,1996 年, 剧组邀 请 我 为《Mission: Impossible》 第一 部设计 Tom Cruise 的服装,当时的风格更简约,更修身。我们为 Tom 选择柔软的灰色条纹面料,搭配浅蓝色衬衫和领带,这种搭 配给男装流行趋势带来影响。” “ 在 为电 影 设 计 服 装 时, 有 机 会 融 入 更 多 时 尚 和 夸 张 元 素。 《Atonement》 (2007) 剧 组曾 邀 请 我 为 James McEvoy 设 计 服 装, 有机会 设计战前晚宴西装 令我 欣喜不已,我们还为《Brideshead Revisited》 (1981)设计斜纹软呢西装,此后一直与 Tommy Nutter 保持良好合作。 《Atonement》所用面料颇具狂野气息 :薄荷绿开 士米羊绒和羊毛方格,搭配蓝色威尔士王子方格。我认为在电影服 装的设计中融入定制手法是明智之举。较之为婚礼设计服装,我更 喜欢在工作室为电影人物设计服装。新郎自然是众人眼中的明星, 必须有合体的西装,但婚礼上还有其他人物作陪衬,也必须衣着 得体。 ” “对定制裁缝师的挑战在于,为演员设计的服装并不一定要让演 员形象更出众,而应立刻演绎出该人物背后的故事,胜过千言万语。 我最近为一部科幻电影人物设计服装,他是世界上最老且最富有的 人。演员看上去十分适合这个角色,但我们必须为他设计合适的西 装。我们是在为人物设计服装,而非演员。 ”

Everest 先生在伦敦 Elder Street 的工作室

SCABAL 参与的电影 到 2012 年,Scabal 为 好 莱 坞电 影 推 出 华 美 服 装 面 料 将 有 40 年,为时尚、电影和高档服 装裁 剪领域带来无穷灵感。 Scabal 曾在诸多经典影片中为银幕增色,在现代电影历史上留 下浓墨重彩。 1972 —《THE GODFATHER》/ Francis Ford Coppola Marlon Brando 和 Al Pacino。 《THE UNTOUCHABLES》/ Brian de Palma 1987 — Sean Connery、Robert de Niro 和 Kevin Costner 1987 —《WALL STREET》/ Oliver Stone Charlie Sheen 和 Michael Douglas 1991 —《BUGSY》/ Barry Levinson Warren Beatty 和 Harvey Keitel 1993 —《THE FIRM》/ Sydney Pollack Tom Cruise 和 Gene Hackman 1995 —《BATMAN FOREVER》/ Joel Schumacher Val Kilmer 和 Chris O’Donnell 1997 —《TITANIC》/ James Cameron Leonardo di Caprio 和 Billy Zane 2001 —《THE TAILOR OF PANAMA》/ John Boorman Geoffrey Rush 和 Pierce Brosnan 《THE AVIATOR》/ Martin Scorsese 2004 — Leonardo di Caprio 和 Alec Baldwin 2006 —《CASINO ROYALE》/ Martin Campbell Daniel Craig 2011 —《WALL STREET II》/ Oliver Stone Michael Douglas 和 Shia LaBeouf

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《Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy》:优雅而传统的服装, 出自英国裁缝师 Timothy Everest 之手 Tom Hardy — 上图 © Focus Features

“ 我 认 为, 我 们 能 在 看 似 不可能 的 时 间内完 成 任 务, 在与定 制 裁 缝 师合作的电 影服 装设计师而言, 简直令人 难以置信。 对 《Tinker, Tailor》而言,Elder Street 工作室(Everest 的伦敦东区工作 室)整整一周堆满演出服装。我们与电影服装设计师保持良好合作 关系,能很快为电影完成服装。我们能迅速掌握影片概要,从中提 取精髓,充分满足制作团队的期望。这也是 Timothy Everest 与电影 行业保持良好合作的原因所在。我们拥有自己的裁剪师和裁缝师, 能在截止日期前完成全部工作。 ” “电影《Eyes Wide Shut》 (1999)制作期间,我与 Stanley Kubrick、 Nicole Kidman 和 Tom Cruise 进行电话会议,这是最有趣的经历之 一。当时是周六,Tom 为拍摄一个重要场景需要外套,服装设计师 无法在周四之前完工。能否在周二就做好呢?与 Kubrick、Nicole 和 Tom 一起交谈让人感觉不太现实。与之类似, 《Mission:Impossible》 需要在布拉格拍摄一段场景,制作团队决定 John Voight 应该穿单 排扣晚宴西装,而不是双排扣,我们 24 小时内就做好了服装。我们 如期交货。 《Mission:Impossible》是我们参与制作的第一部电影,之 后我们又接到四部电影的服装工作。 ”


高尔夫 时间

双十周年 纪念 梅赛德斯高尔夫杯与《BESPOKEN》杂志将共同在 2012 年迎来十周年纪念。这是期待惊喜的一年! SCABAL 将再度成为该高尔夫赛事的官方赞助商。 撰文:Cécile de Forton

梅赛德斯高尔夫杯 © 梅赛德斯高尔夫杯

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赛德斯杯是全球知名的高尔 夫 赛 事,2011 年 吸 引 超 过 43 个 国 家 的 58,000 多 位 选 手参赛。在意大利和比利时, 高尔夫被视为上流社会的运 动,较之欧洲邻国荷兰或英国,这两个国家 承办更多赛事。国际决赛期间,职业球星向参 赛者提供建议指导,竞赛倡导声望、品质、公 平竞争、生活质量以及积极面对挑战的热情。

“评审团将选出衣着 最入时的选手, 最优雅的选手将得到全 手工量体裁剪的SCABAL 西装” Celine Van Cauwelart, Scabal

成功,一如既往……

在比利时进行的第 9 届梅赛德斯高尔夫杯大 获成功,不仅该豪华汽车品牌获益匪浅,德 意 志个人银 行、Bang & Olufsen 及 Callaway 亦收获颇丰。Scabal 首次赞助此项赛事,赛 事于春季开始,气氛轻松友好。参赛者享受 前所未有的比赛条件。主办方安排热情的接 待活动,由Le Pain Quotidien 提供美食大餐, 还有 De Castellane 的香槟酒佳酿,主办方组 织两项赛事-梅赛德斯奔驰杯和梅赛德斯奔 驰明星杯。第一项赛事面向所有梅赛德斯特 邀的宾客和合作伙伴参与,优胜者将得到意 大利全新度假酒店 Verdura Golf & Spa 的门 票,酒店拥有令人向往的自然风光,第二项 赛事为所有球会成员组织,每个国家有三个 入围名额,入围者将有机会赴斯图加特参观 梅赛德斯总部。

每个零售商邀请三位最尊贵的顾客参加赛 事。通过衣着考究的高尔夫参赛者,一场优 雅的服装大赛同时上演。不过,尽管高尔夫 以往是仅限男士的运动,不要忘记,这项优 雅赛事最初是由安特卫普著名珠宝商为女士 们赞助举办。Celine Van Cauwelart 在 Scabal 负责该项目,他为我们介绍赛事最初的详 情: “赛事过程中,评审团将选出衣着最入时 的选手。在授权经销商的合作之下,通过抽 签,最优雅的高尔夫球手将获得完全量体定 制的 Scabal 西装。 ”真是幸运啊!除竞赛外, Scabal 还在球会内部设立服装展台。 2012,惊喜不断!

“充满 惊喜的 10 周年纪念! ”Dirk Platteeuw 承诺。尽管组织方对 2012 年的惊喜守口如 瓶,但参赛者一定不会失望。 “我们仍在积 极构思创意之中,大家有各种奇思妙想。资 格赛场次将保持一致,参赛球员和俱乐部将 更多。该赛事定能令所有球员尽享其中, ”这 位比利时组织者补充道。Gregor Thissen 表 示: “Scabal 将在国际层面积极为赛事提供 赞助。赞助活动将充分体现我们的国际策略 和活动。继续为在德国和瑞士举办的梅赛德 斯高尔夫杯提供赞助是我们的下一步工作, 这两个国家亦是我们的主要市场。 ”在绿茵 草地呈现永恒优雅既自然又独具挑战。高尔 夫球手们,做好准备吧!

商业价值

梅赛德斯高尔夫杯是建立并巩固客户关系 的 绝 佳 活 动。Dirk Platteeuw 是 赛 事 的比 利时组织者,谈及赛事大获成功的原因时, 他表示 : “该独具特色的平台为邀请客户和 潜在客户提供良机。该赛事为梅赛德斯的 客户与其他合作伙伴客户提供相互结识的 机会。这是提升客户忠诚度并争取新客户的 绝佳方式! ”赛事历经十年发展,在比利时 仍大获成功。对越来越多的品牌而言,高 尔夫运动已成为商业战略的重要组成部分。 Scabal 首席执行官 Gregor Thissen 坚持强 调高尔夫 对于业务和客户人际网络的重要 性: “多年来,体育与商业之间的联系愈发 紧密。在体育领域,推广高尔夫始终扮演 重要角色。高尔夫爱好者多数是社会精英 阶层,该特点使这项运动更具吸引力。不过, 高尔夫与商业的关系还有另一种维度。或许 您早有耳闻,但的确有不少重要交易在高尔 夫球场上达成。在很多国家,要想成为商 业精英中的一员,不会打高尔夫是很大的 问题。” 以往, 高 尔夫 会 给人“仅限 男士, 女 士 回避 ”的印象,是男士展现优雅魅力的舞 台。自然,Scabal 不会错失良机!赛事期间, Scabal 零售商与各个高尔夫俱乐部建立合作。

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有关赛事的更多信息 详见 : www.mercedestrophy.be

高尔夫球会内的 Scabal 服饰优雅展示。极至优雅!


Mieux que la chaussure : le compliment d’une femme sur la chaussure. e r i k v a n l o o y , cinéaste : l a mémoir e du tueur , l oft

www.ambiorix.be

Naamsestraat - Rue de Namur 72 / 74, 1000 Brussels, Belgium www.ambiorix.be

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这 就是 SCA BA L

小样册生产 : 如果可行,无需变化 有些时候,传统方式就是最佳方式。 互联网领域的革命性设计和产品风起云涌,但对于向客户展示新 面料系列而言,没有什么比得过小样,这种方式能让客户亲身观赏、触摸并感受。 作者:Nigel Bishop 早在上世纪 50 年代,Scabal 就在面料小样领域保持领先。生产最 楼。 10 位员工组成的忠实团队负责此项工作,自始至终均由内部管理。 新系列面料的小样册并送至全球各地的裁缝店已成为我们业务工作 “生产新一季小样册需要不少时间。与我们合作必须有充分的耐心 的传统方式。这项工作鲜有变化,对 Scabal 而言,无论客户位于何 和热情,”生产经理 Bertrand De Baere 表示,他为 Scabal 工作已 地,精心装订的各种小样册仍是帮助客户了解全新系列的最佳方式。 有 27 年。2012 年夏季 Scabal 九大系列每系列都有约 1,200 件小样册, 合计将生产 11,800 件小样。 “我们的团队需要四个月才能完成这样 内部手工生产 工作,”Bertrand 表示。 小样册生产是 Scabal 专业生产部门的组成部分,位于布鲁塞尔市中 为生产完美的 Scabal 小样,工作人员需要投入大量时间和精力, 心运河旁的 Scabal 仓库,与布匹裁剪、存货经理和货运部门同在三 我们从繁琐的生产步骤中选取 6 个主要步骤,为大家详细介绍 :

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样品册制作团队,左起:Brigitte Eischen、Brigitte Waucampt、Diane Lignier、 Anne-Marie Legros、Benjamin Verstraete、Mady Vanderstukken、Bertrand De Baere、Awatif Amrani、Johny Azzi。

1.

首先,布匹裁剪。自动辊压机将 4.60 米 乘 1.50 米的布匹叠在裁剪台上,30 层左 右高。小样一般 5 至 60 件一束,平均 30 件。 然后将布匹切割成 250 件,尺寸为 12 厘 米乘 19 厘米,这是面料小样的最理想 尺寸。

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2.

用胶水将小样粘贴在预先切割好的木块上, 静置数小时晾干。

3.

为小样粘贴带有 Scabal 品牌标志和系列名称的小标 签,每册有 30 种面料小样,然后在面料背面粘贴面 料编号。该步骤受严格品质控制,四分之一的小样册 将被抽查,确保标签正确。

4.

接下来将这九个系列的小样放入 Pellaq 制 成的包装盒内,包装盒采用 100%再生纸 制成,质感厚重,品质一流。

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SCABAL 小样的 重要数字 1938 Scabal 品牌创立的年份。 1950 Scabal 发明小样用于 推广面料的年份。 10 参与小样册制作的工人 数。 250 制作最小小样册需要的 时间。 45 每个小样册的平均设计 款式数目。

5.

30,000 每年生产的小样册数目。

熨烫 Scabal 标志和系列名称。用热熔工 艺将固定小样的木块与包装盒内衬融为一 体。附加短绳,方便顾客使用。

5,000 Scabal 提供的面料品种数 在小样册中,每种面料都属 于特定系列。 超过 100 Scabal 提供的小样册数 1,000 比利时布鲁塞尔邮编, Scabal 仍在此生产小样 册。 300 至 600 克之间 小样册平均重量。 6 用于生产小样册的不同材 料。每个小样册含 :纸张、 Pellaq、面料、铁、木材和 线绳。

6.

清洁小样册,包装待运。2012 年夏季系列 的小样册已经在发运途中,Bertrand 及其 团队正准备制作明年冬季系列。这项意义 非凡的工作将再次展开,周而复始。

61


过 去- 现 在- 未来

创新就在今日 撰文:Jérôme Stéfanski

超过 8,000 公里

感欣喜,该套装借 Diamond Chip 面料系列 10 周年之机正式发布。

可否共舞?

www.solstudio.ru

总统先生

2012 年 9 月,Scabal 将有两家新店开业,相 隔 8,000 公里,其中一家位于比利时布鲁塞 尔最著名的街道,另一家则位于北京核心区。 两家专卖店将采用相同的装修方式,与伦敦 Scabal 旗舰店保持一致,下一期《Bespoken》 将有专门文章介绍开业情况。 www.scabal.com/store_locator.php

Scabal 与比利时杰出青年歌手 Stromae 建立 战略合作,他是著名《Alors on dance》演出 的策划者和表演者,该演出 2010 年获得全 球好评。这位青年才俊的学院风格令 Scabal 一见倾心,双方合作始于 Scabal 推广明年 冬季的最新 Capella 系列,将借鉴 70 年代 英国服装风格。 www.stromae.org

开创先河的 钻石链扣套装 温和革命 近期,通 过 Bulgaria Agressia Group 的独家 经销商,在 Carlo Caddeo 的联络下,Scabal 为保加利亚总统 Rosen Plevneliev 的定制西 装 提 供面料。总统先生 选择 Royal Ultimus 系列的三款面料,该系列包括 Super 150 羊 毛和开士米羊绒面料,与阿盖尔郡十三世公 爵 Torquhil Argyll 合 作 开 发。1983 年, 通 过与阿盖尔郡十二世公爵之父合作,Scabal 推 出 首 个 Ultimus 系 列。Torquhil Argyll 是 Campbell Clan 的核心人物,该家族是苏格 兰历史上最具影响力的家族之一。为推广 Sol Studio 是 Scabal 的重要本地经销合作伙 Scabal 面料,Agressia Group 还在保加利亚 伴,由 Alexandra Kaloshina 执掌业务运作, 全国进行大规模广告宣传。 在 Sol Studio 营 销 计 划 的 促 成 下,Scabal www.agressia.com 欣 然 为莫 斯 科 房地 产 开发商 M. Vladimer 先 生 奉上 开 创 先 河 的 钻 石 链 扣 套 装。M. Vladimer 先生一直是 Scabal 面料的忠实顾 客,购买限量版 Scabal 限量版链扣令他倍

62

每天,Scabal 传 讯 材料 吸引成千上万读 者, 包 括面料 小 样 册、 宣传 手册及网站, 介 绍 5,000 多种面料、服装和配饰。每种材料都充 分彰显公司形象,必须保持明确和一致,统 一的标志和风格指导能传递更强大的 Scabal 品牌信号。如今,Scabal 欣然宣布,所有面 料和成品宣传材料将采用最新标志设计。全 新标志融入柔和的变化,将经典的狮子字母 图案(代表面料部门)与现代标志完美融合, 主要供成品使用。Scabal 希望全新品牌形象 能特色鲜明,内涵丰富,令人过目不忘。 www.scabal.com


优雅骑师

借 巴 黎 著 名 的 International Gucci Masters 大 赛 之 机,Scabal 荣 幸 推 出 全 新 K.S. 系 列。在到场观看赛事的贵宾中,摩纳哥公主 Charlotte Casiraghi 对全新定制系列兴趣浓 厚。该系列由 Scabal 为法国马术冠军 Kevin Staut 设计,未来数月将在香港和纽约的马 术比赛上亮相。 www.scabal.com/ksbyscabal

国际人际网络

定制浴袍

SCABAL 岛屿专卖店

Scabal 欣然宣布,在委内瑞拉的第二家专卖 店正式开业。该专卖店位于著名玛格丽塔岛 上的奢侈品购物中心,距加拉加斯 30 分钟 飞行航程,Scabal 第一家委内瑞拉专卖店于 七年前在加拉加斯开业。 继钻石链扣大获成功后,Scabal 推出最新 奢侈品设计,仅在限定时期内发售。顾客可 通过 Scabal 全球各地专卖店订购 Scabal 最 新定制浴袍,浴袍可在四周内交货。此款浴 袍仅采用最上乘的开士米羊绒,源自 Scabal 的个性化计划,提供首字母刺绣等诸多个 性选择,顾客可根据自己的尺寸和个性打造 完全属于自己的服装。该产品源自德国零售 商 Stephan Görner 的创意,不容错过。

www.scabal.com

都市时尚聚会

www.scabal.com/shop

Scabal 不惜重金,努力与媒体保持稳固合作 关系,由于产品销往超过 65 个国家,与媒 体合作很难覆盖所有市场。为向本地代理商、 业务合作伙伴和零售商提供更多支持,公司 正逐步提高品牌在本地媒体的曝光率。独立 撰稿人的客观文章是推广品牌的最佳方式, Scabal 已经在日本、英国、荷兰、比利时、 德国、瑞士、法国和中国等国投入资金。投 资取得理想效果,我们在国际媒体上的覆盖 正逐月扩大。

为以时尚方式告别 2011 年,Scabal 诚邀尊 贵顾客亲 赴 Savile Row 旗舰 店。Scabal 将 在店内展示最考究的男士服装和配饰,尤其 值得关注的是十周年 Diamond Chip 面料系 列。嘉宾还有机会了解 Derek Rose 设计的 上乘定制睡衣,感受 Penhaligons 的香水产 品。这是伦敦市中心独具特色的时尚聚会! www.scabal.co.uk

www.scabal.com/press_journalists.php

63


SCABAL全球 布料

服装与配饰

SCABAL BENELUX- 总部和国际分销中心 +32-2-217 98 49 www.scabal.com

西班牙 +34-93-726 00 99 brautex@brautex.com +34-93 726 00 99 unikman@unikman.es

澳大利亚 +61-3-5989 8601 a.wain@bigpond.net.au

奥地利 +43-1-533 61 29 nkuntschik@scabal.at

瑞士 +41-61-261 25 79/80 scabal_suisse@scabal.com

保加利亚 +359-2-936 03 70 bvangelov@votan.eu

土耳其 +90-212-282 71 93 info@yeniimalat.com.tr

文莱-柬埔寨-印尼- 老挝-马来西亚-缅甸- 菲律宾-新加坡-泰国-越南 +65-6336 0070 heefabricagencies@hee.sg

塞浦路斯 +90-392-228 33 40 akfinans@akfinans.com

美洲

欧洲

位于伦敦 Savile Row 的 Scabal 旗舰店

请光临 SCABAL 旗舰店 12 SAVILE ROW, W1S 3PQ LONDON, 电话 +44-20-77 34 89 63, HAZEL.EDMONDS@SCABAL.COM 抑或 SCABAL 展台 LE PRINTEMPS DE L’HOMME, 4TH FLOOR, 61 RUE CAUMARTIN, 75009 PARIS, 电话 +33-1-42 82 55 33 或 +33-1-42 82 40 32, SCABAL.PRINTEMPS@SCABAL.COM K ADEWE, 1ST FLOOR, TAUENTZIENSTRASSE 21-24, 10789 BERLIN, 电话 +49-30-219 18 530, ANDREAS.OLTMANNS@SCABAL.DE

法国 +33-1-42 33 08 93 scfr@scabal.com 德国 +49-681-9871 0 info@scabal.de +49-211-497 6840 info@westtuch.de

阿根廷 +54-011-4371 6467 scabal@cipaz.com.ar 巴西 +55-11-362 041 044 erlutecidos@sti.com.br 加拿大 +1-514-335 35 11 info@hersh-rsd.com

英国 +44-207-734 1867 hazel.edmonds@scabal.com

智利 +56-2-638 14 72 c.rubio@holmes.cl

希腊 +30-210-67 27 431 dcon@otenet.gr

哥伦比亚 +57-1-256 30 77 marsanti@etb.net.com

意大利 +39-02-407 80 27 scabal_italia@scabal.com

多米尼加 +1-809-562 4416 laronde@codetel.net.do

波兰 +48-61-436 79 69 info@scabal.pl

墨西哥 +52-55-5515 8433 gillybru@prodigy.net.mx

葡萄牙 +351-275-954 827 jvi@jvi.pt

SCABAL 量体定制 +52-55-5660 75 40 cincu@prodigy.net.mx 或 alejandrocarreon@prodigy.net.mx

罗马尼亚 +40-21-311 56 46 showroom@casafrumoasa.ro 俄罗斯 +7-495-660-7163 ag@gatex.ru +7-495-730-2010 sol@solstudio.ru

其他地区

香港 +852-23-762 535 fbfhk@fieldingbrownfinch.com.hk 印度 +91-11-23 26 45 00 bindragroup@vsnl.net 伊朗 +98 55611469-55614137 tehranivahid@hotmail.com 日本 +81-6-6232 2755 scabaljapan@scabal.co.jp 科威特 +965-243 36 85 bennekhi@hotmail.com 新西兰 +64-9-828 06 74 velvetfabrics@clear.net.nz 沙特-阿联酋 +44-140-375 27 16 faris@fmmercie.com 韩国 +82-2-2285 6230 dnjyoo@yahoo.com 叙利亚 +963 - 11 2233986 +963 - 11 2222784 akkad-sons@gmail.com

美国 +1-212-764 8580 scus@scabal.com 委内瑞拉 +58-212-264 6914 inversionesmarumi@gmail.com

下 一期 :20 1 2年 8月

您一定熟知,品味考究的绅士会选择 Scabal 量体裁剪西装,采用 彰显个性品味的上乘面料,在下一期内容,您将有机会了解至少六 种全新特色系列,其中包括冬季面料,例如 100%开士米羊绒、冬 季纯棉以及 Super 150 轻羊毛。欢迎至 www.bespoken.com 订阅, 杂志可直接邮寄至家中。 64


Maison fondĂŠe en 1785 Taste our know-how wisely


www.cartier.com

ballon bleu de cartier EXTRA-FLAT 430 MC

CARTIER’S PASSION FOR DESIGN INNOVATION IS BROUGHT TO THE TRADITIONAL ROUND FACE WATCH. THE EXTRA-FLAT BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER’S CURVED FORMS ARE AS SOPHISTICATED AS THEY ARE ORIGINAL: THE SAPPHIRE-DECORATED CROWN AROUND WHICH THE DIAL ORBITS, FEATURES UNPRECEDENTED DETAILS. ONCE AGAIN, CARTIER’S UNIQUE CREATIVITY TAKES A STEP FURTHER WITH DESIGN. 18K PINK GOLD 46 MM CASE. MANUFACTURE MECHANICAL MOVEMENT WITH MANUAL WINDING, CARTIER CALIBRE 430 MC (21 JEWELS, 28,800 VIBRATIONS PER HOUR, 2.10 MM THIN). ALLIGATOR BRACELET.


BESPOKEN 10 - CHINESE  

We have made this special edition for China. Half of the magazine is in Chinese, half in English.

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