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gu覺de january 2012

Be dazzled Festival of Performing Arts offers a feast of culture Shopping, sightseeing, dining, culture



Cover photo and above, festival performers Ailey II. See pages 6-8.

n Arts

n Food & Drink

n Sightseeing

festival 6-8 overview 18-19 galleries & shows 48

best places to eat 34-40 our harmless critters 16

Hamilton 10-11 St. George’s 12-13 Dockyard 14-15

n Business

n People

n Transportation

real estate 20

Minister’s welcome 4

n Events

n Practicalities

performing arts festival 6-8 calendar 46-48

n Shopping

n Nature

health, customs etc 24-25 flex the plastic 27-33 made in Bermuda 41

Co-publisher & advertising manager: Lisa Beauchamp, Tel: 278-1850 Co-publisher & editor-in-chief: Tony McWilliam, tmcwilliam@ Tel: 278-1860 Design & Layout: Creative Circle Media Consulting Accounts: Donna Vesely Tel: 278-1831 Delivery: Lloyd Somner Cover: Photo courtesy of Bermuda Festival of Performing Arts Contributors: Amanda Dale, Bryan Darby, Andrew Dobson, Simon Jones, Sarah Lagan, Jamie Macmillan, Kageaki Smith, James Whittaker. Special thanks to Alison Outerbridge

2 guide

bus info 24 bus schedule 47 ferry info 25 stay safe on a scooter 26

n Weather what to expect 25 guide Published by The Bermuda Sun a subsidiary of MediaHouse © Ltd. Printed by Island Press Ltd. Web: Information and services contained in the guide are believed to be correct at the time of printing; however, prices and times may be subject to change without notice. The Bermuda Sun Limited makes every effort to ensure accuracy but accepts no liability for errors or omissions. Reproduction in whole or in part by permission of the publisher only.

© d. yurman 2011

Midnight Mélange Collection




On behalf of the Government of Bermuda and the people of Bermuda, welcome to our Island paradise. With breathtaking pink-sand beaches, iridescent turquoise waters and friendly people, our Island retreat will seduce your senses and bring a new meaning to the word “vacation.� Bermuda is where rich history, diverse cultures, exceptional natural beauty and romance meet. In addition to the beautiful beaches, Bermuda has a thriving arts community plus an abundance of activities to keep you entertained during your stay. Between the months of November and March, the Bermuda Rendezvous Activities, a cultural programme, offers a wide range of family friendly activities, from guided tours and historical re-enactments to Gombey dancing, glassblowing and cooking. We are fortunate to host a number of internationally recognized sporting events such as the Bermuda Goodwill Golf Tournament in December and both the Bermuda Marathon Weekend and the Bermuda Regional Bridge Tournament in January 2012. During your stay, I hope you have an opportunity to enjoy our premier shopping establishments, play a round of golf, visit one of our renowned spas or spend an evening in one of our many fine restaurants. However you choose to enjoy your Bermuda vacation, I am certain you will have a memorable experience. Once again, it is my pleasure to welcome you to Bermuda, I trust you have a wonderful visit. Sincerely, The Hon. Wayne L. Furbert, JP, MP

4 guide

arts festival

Photos supplied

Charismatic vocalist Marlena Smalls can sing in gospel, jazz, blues and contemporary styles — catch her on January 27 and 28 at the City Hall Theatre.

A boy band, brilliant jazz, blues and ballet By Sarah Lagan | You’re twice lucky: you’re in the sub-tropics while many other folks shiver in the snow and rain — and your visit coincides with the Bermuda Festival of Performing Arts. Culture vultures — prepare to chow down. A host of international artistes descend on our shores every January and February for the festival. It is a coup for the festival to have brought in the popular classical boy band Blake, which has twice performed at Buckingham Palace, along with many other prestigious venues. Bridging the gap between pop and opera, the The gifted trumpeter Jon Faddis and his orchestra perform on January 20.

6 guide

handsome quartet topped the music charts globally in April and will be opening our festival

arts festival

The festival was launched in 1976 at the Fairmont Southampton Resort. Venezuelan pianist Gabriel Montero also has a significant claim to fame, having performed with cellist Yo-Yo Ma, violinist Itzhak Perlman and clarinetist Anthony McGill at President Barack Obama’s inauguration in 2009. Montero, who will appear at a Sunday afternoon concert at City Hall, is known for her dexterity and improvisation and will be inviting requests from the audience. Jazz aficionados are in for a treat as the feted Jon Faddis brings his orchestra to the Fairmont Southampton. Faddis is a gifted trumpeter; jazz legend Dizzy Gillespie famously described him as “the best ever, including me!” Ballet lovers will enjoy Ailey II, the junior company for the internationallyrespected Alvin Ailey American Dance

January line-up • Blake Jan 17 & 18, Fairmont Southampton Resort, 8:30pm • Jon Faddis Jazz Orchestra of New York Jan 20, Fairmont Southampton Resort, 8:30pm • Ailey II Jan 23 & 24, Ruth Seaton James Centre, 8pm • Marlena Smalls and the Hallelujah Singers Jan 27 and 28, City Hall Theatre, 8pm • Gabriela Montero Jan 29, City Hall Theatre, 4:30pm • Mother to Mother Jan 31, City Hall Theatre, 8pm

Continued on page 8 GOVER NMENT OF BER MUDA Minis tr y of Economy, Tr ade and Indus tr y Bermuda Post Office

The Bermuda Post Office is pleased to offer “Diamond Jubilee”, a series of six stamps. This collection of commemorative stamps spans Queen Elizabeth’s reign. These stamps will be released on 9 February 2012. First Day Cover $6.00, cost per set $4.35, FDC souvenir sheet $4.00, souvenir sheet $2.50, souvenir sheetlet $4.35. Available at the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau.

For more information please e-mail guide 7

arts festival

Lord Menuhin performed at the first festival

The festival caters to varied tastes: From left, Thembi Mtshali-Jones in the play Mother to Mother, dancers from Ailey II and pianist Gabriela Montero.

Continued from page 7

Theatre. They will perform at the Ruth Seaton James Centre and honour longstanding Ailey artistic director Judith Jamison, who recently retired. Singer Marlena Smalls’ repertoire spans gospel, jazz, blues, contemporary and sacred music. Her show at City Hall Theatre will feature the Hallelujah Singers and will celebrate the Gullah culture of South Carolina’s Sea Islands, a culture steeped in its West African heritage. Finally, the South African play Mother to Mother, to be staged at City Hall Theatre, is loosely based on the murder of the American Fulbright scholar Amy

Biehl in Gugulethu township. It brings together three prominent theatre arts women in South Africa: writer Sindiwe Magone; director Janice Honeyman and actress Thembi Mtshali-Jones. n For more details and ticket info visit or www. or tel. 232-2255 for a brochure. Tickets are also available at these festival box office locations: All Wrapped Up Home, Washington Mall, Hamilton and Fabulous Fashions at the Heron Bay Plaza, Southampton. Tickets are $65 for adults, $25 for students.

Classical boy band Blake famously united through Facebook and Twitter.

8 guide

a day in hamilton

Photo by Jamie Macmillan

Hamilton’s main drag, Front Street, looking up towards Burnaby Street.

Our striking capital city The City of Hamilton, which became the capital of Bermuda in 1815, is laid out in a grid pattern so it is easy to find your way around. A good place to start is the Visitor Information Centre next to the Ferry Terminal on Front Street where maps, brochures and schedules of events are available. From here it is a short walk to Queen Street and Parla-Ville Park, Perot Post Office and the National Library, all located in a neighbourhood dating from the 1800s. You’ll find the Bermuda Historical Society Museum inside the library and every Monday from November to March a free guided walking tour meets on the verandah of the library. On Church Street is City Hall, home to the Bermuda National Gallery and the Bermuda Society of Arts, which show rotating exhibits by local and foreign artists. Further east on Church Street is the Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity, the Anglican Cathedral, consecrated in 1911. 10 guide

Named after Governor Sir Henry Hamilton


The elaborate stained glass windows are as splendid as any found in Europe and for $3 the climb up the tower is worth the effort. Overlooking the City is Fort Hamilton. The best time to visit and take in the stunning view is Monday at noon, when the Bermuda Islands’ Pipe Band performs. Back in town, our striking civic structures include the Cabinet Building and the House of Assembly. The city is also a great place to loosen the wallet at jewellery, clothing and souvenir shops. You’ll also find a wide choice of eateries, from simple cafes and diners to Italian, Thai, Irish, Chinese, Mexican and Bermudian restaurants. n Beautiful Par-la-Ville Park is a quiet spot in the middle of the city, close to Perot Post Office. Photo by Kageaki Smith

Bermuda’s leading retailer of exclusive, Bermuda-designed resort wear for men, women and children.

49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672 Mangrove Bay, Somerset, tel: 234-0770 Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-0142 guide 11

a day in st. george’s

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Water Street, the bustling centre of town.

Old town charm A trip to Bermuda would not be complete without a visit to our original capital. St. George’s celebrates the 400th anniversary of its founding in 2012 and this remarkable town retains much of its original architecture. Indeed, a resident of two centuries ago could return today and still find his way home. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site — a distinction shared with the Pyramids of Egypt, the Taj Mahal and the Great Wall of China. The Bermuda National Trust Museum on Duke of York Street is home to the St. George’s Visitor Information Centre. It also houses exhibits detailing the role of the town during the American Civil War and has a film that explains the economic development of the island. Across the road is one of Bermuda’s most historic sites, St. Peter’s Church, originally built by the first settlers of 1612 and today the oldest continually used Anglican Church in the New World. On Water Street you will find the Tucker House Museum, replete with 12 guide

St George’s: originally called New London furnishings from the 1700s and an archeological exhibit explaining the town’s ties with Colonial Williamsburg. Further down Water Street and on Penno’s Wharf is a warehouse once used by the Confederates for storing cotton on its way to London. Here the World Heritage Centre explains the full history of St. George’s with exhibits, displays and a film. The St. George’s Historical Society Museum on Duke of Kent Street takes visitors back to the early days of Bermuda with its original architecture, furnishings, kitchen and garden. A short walk away is the photogenic Unfinished Church, which lies on the route to Fort St. Catherine, where the history of Bermuda’s British naval defence is detailed. Take advantage of free, guided walking tours that start at the Town Hall at 10.30am on Wednesdays and Saturdays

st. george’s

Photo by Tony McWilliam

Historic gem: St Peter’s Church.

from November to March. They are followed by a greeting from the Mayor of St. George’s and the public punishment of the town gossip. n guide 13

a day in dockyard

Photos by Kageaki Smith

The Bermuda National Museum offers commanding views across Dockyard.

West end delights By BRYAN DARBY | Wherever you go in Bermuda, the breeze of history is likely to brush against you. But at our 200-year-old Royal Naval Dockyard, at the west end of the island, the past is a constant companion. Every limestone building in this spectacular tourist attraction is original, providing a collection of unique naval structures that have been successfully commandeered by restaurants, museums, art galleries, a glass factory, potteries, beachside bars, theme parks and a shopping mall. You won’t need a map — Dockyard is only a few square miles and can be covered in a couple of hours of leisurely discovery. Don’t miss Dolphin Quest or the Bermuda National Museum, which enjoys a dominant perch overlooking the entire docklands. Every building you encounter has something to offer: the Dockyard Art Centre, Frog & Onion British Pub, and the Craft Market, for example, sit cheek-by-jowl on Maritime Row. Whether you arrive by cruise ship, harbour ferry or by road, you cannot avoid the feeling that somehow you’ve taken a step back in time. And so you have. It was from this spot that the feared British Navy kept watch on the trade routes between Canada and the Caribbean, took the war of 1812 14 guide


Dockyard is our primary cruise ship port to the Americans while protecting the Canadians, and generally made a nuisance of themselves. You can almost envisage the convict ships that once lined Dockyard’s inner walls with their grim cargo of criminals from the Old Country. Now, where sails were laid out and ropes were spun, industrious Bermudians offer hand-made glassware and pottery. The imposing Clocktower Shopping Mall appears to represent the epoch of naval architecture. But was it planned that way? One persistent rumour has it that in 1804 we were mistakenly sent plans for the British Embassy in Khartoum — while Khartoum received plans for a very plain warehouse. True or false, the Clocktower is just one of Dockyard’s many enduring attractions. n

Make a splash at Dolphin Quest.

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278-1855 guide 15


Our harmless critters By ANDREW DOBSON | Like most

other things in Bermuda — groceries, cars, shipwrecked settlers — our wildlife was largely imported, either accidentally or on purpose. There are hundreds of feral cats and feral chickens – but no feral dogs. We have a few rats, of course, but no snakes. Spiders are abundant but generally harmless. The occasional poisonous spider arrives on imported lumber but they rarely bother people. Mosquitoes aren’t a problem and there are few bugs to worry about. To find the mildly venomous nine-inch centipede, you would

16 guide

Photo by Tony McWilliam

Small lizards are a common sight across the island.

have to turn over a lot of rocks in St. David’s Parish. Try to avoid the Portuguese man-owar, a purple jellyfish that sports long tentacles and causes a painful sting. Sharks are rare in Bermuda waters and there are no records of shark attacks. One of our most intriguing creatures is the common whistling frog. Their ‘gleepgleep’ chorus is particularly vigorous after rainfall on warm evenings and you’ll be amazed that a frog little bigger than your thumbnail can be so audible. Easier to spot on wet evenings are enormous cane toads, introduced to control cockroaches. Birds are plentiful; about 375 species have been recorded in Bermuda and 20 are resident. Many migrate through the island and more than 100 species are present during the winter, including a variety of ducks, herons and egrets. For more, visit n


Sample our art hot spots By Sarah lagan | Bermuda is a wonderful melting pot of different cultures and its art scene is similarly diverse and vibrant. Our small island is packed with art galleries, studios and museums stretching from St George’s in the east to Dockyard in the west. Our art hot spots include: n The Bermuda National Gallery Home to three permanent exhibitions — The African Collection, The Bermudian Collection and The European Collection. There is also a rotation of work by local and international artists. Its current ‘Reinterpreting the European Collection’ invited eight local artists to offer their own take on a historical artwork of their choice. City Hall & Arts Centre, Hamilton. 295-9428.

n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Masterworks prides itself as “the preeminent museum of Bermuda Art” and Bermuda is the subject for many of its works. The gallery hosts the annual Charman Prize and has an Artist in Residence programme that sees international artists offer their interpretations of island life. There’s a gift shop and a café. Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel. 236-2950.

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Photo by Kageaki Smith

City Hall, home to our national gallery and society of arts.

n Bermuda Society of Arts Known affectionately as “the people’s gallery”, BSoA features everything from professional artwork to the work of schoolchildren and prisoners. It is made up of four separate galleries including the main space, The Onions Gallery. The gallery plays host to some 50 shows per year reflecting all walks of life. City Hall & Arts Centre, Hamilton. Tel. 292-3824

n National Museum of Bermuda Well worth a visit for those interested in our history, culture and heritage. Exhibitions and displays range from Bermuda’s Defence Heritage, The Slave Trade and The

Most famous sculptor: Desmond Fountain Royal Navy Collections. Local artist Graham Foster’s epic mural, depicting the history of Bermuda, is not to be missed. Dockyard. Tel. 234-1418.

n Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard If you are lucky, you might meet some of Bermuda’s artists who are residents at the Arts Centre in Dockyard including Jonah Jones and Christopher Marson. You will get a good feel for Bermuda’s stunning natural landscapes through the ever-changing collections by the Plein Air Painters of Bermuda. Dockyard. Tel. 234-2809.

Monday-Saturday | 10:00am - 4:00pm Closed on Public Holidays museum is accessible with ramps and an elevator.

n Crisson & Hind Art Gallery Home to a fascinating collection of carved sculptures from Zimbabwe. 71 Front St, Hamilton. Tel. 295-1117.

Masterworks The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,200 pieces of Bermuda inspired art. Renowned artists such as Georgia O’Keefe, Marsden Hartley, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes are part of the Permanent Collection and there is a constantly evolving showcase of local artists. The museum shop sells prints and original local art, and Homer’s Café serves a wide selection of baked goods, lunch items and even afternoon tea. To learn about Bermuda’s culture and history there is no better stop on your vacation itinerary than The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Museum is accessible with ramps and an elevator. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm. $5 admission, free for members and children under 12. Closed public holidays.

The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,200 pieces of Bermuda inspired art; some by such famous names as Georgia O’Keeffe, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes. The museum shop sells prints and original local art; a perfect keepsake to take home! To learn about Bermuda’s culture and history there is no better stop on your vacation itinerary.

at masterworks HOURS OF OPERATION

Monday - Saturday

10:30am - 4:00pm Sandwiches, paninis, salads, quiche, soup, hot lunches, baked goods, specialty coffees, afternoon tea and even picnic baskets to go! we also offer a range of bakery products that are gluten free Serviced by

The Botanical Gardens • 183 South Road Paget, DV 04 • Bermuda Tel: (441) 236-2950 • Fax: (441)-236-4402 guide 19


real estate

Own a bit of ‘The Rock’ Many visitors, seduced by our sub-tropical climate, historic charm and pink sand beaches, return to Bermuda year after year. Americans in particular often seek to make the relationship a little more permanent, through timeshares or fractional ownership. As a non-Bermudian you are not permitted to buy property outright unless you have more than $5million to spend, so it’s a more affordable way to claim a small piece of ‘The Rock’. And

The St. George’s Club

it enables you to share your love of the island with friends and family for generations to come. Prices vary of course but you might get into the market at the $150,000 to $400,000 range. Check with a local realtor through our website,, for more information. Names that will come up include The Reefs Club, Tucker’s Point Club, Newstead Belmont Hill Golf Resort and Spa — and The St. George’s Club.

Facilities for the more energetic include Are you dreaming three tennis courts, of a Bermuda family one lit for night play, holiday? Well, The St. and a fitness center. George’s Club can The surrounding Golf make that dream an Course is currently Photo by james whittaker affordable reality. closed but is to be The charming St. George’s Club, which Overlooking the redesigned by Nick offers timeshare opportunities. historic Town of St. Faldo. George and the quaint harbor, its clusters Golf enthusiasts can also enjoy priviof one-bedroom and two bedroom cotleges at the challenging Riddell’s Bay Golf tages offer all the comforts of home. Fully course in Southampton. equipped kitchens make home cooking posThe bus stop is within close walking sible – and an onsite grocery means shopdistance and the fast ferry to Dockyard ping is close to hand. Don’t feel like cookand Hamilton is also nearby. You can also ing? Griffin’s Bistro in the main clubhouse explore at your own pace by renting a is known for its excellent international scooter from the onsite cycle livery. cuisine, or dine at Blackbeard’s Hideout the The Club is an RCI Gold Crown Resort beachside restaurant and bar. Three swimwhich allows members exchange options at ming pools, one heated and one with a pool any of RCI’s nearly 4,000 worldwide resort bar are situated in beautifully manicured hotels. New members are also enrolled in and spacious grounds. If you prefer the The Club’s private travel and cruise program. beach, the complimentary shuttle can take To learn more, call 297-1222 or visit you to The Club’s secluded Achilles Bay. n 20 guide

Golf Guide 2010:Layout 1

golf guide


11:25 AM

Page 5

Winston Churchill and President HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 339 386 378 115 368 470 178 329 326

PAR 4 4 4 3 4 5 3 4 4

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 329 172 533 344 350 436 385 167 412

PAR 4 3 5 4 4 4 4 3 4










TOTAL 6,017


BELMONT HILLS GOLF COURSE • 236-6060 Overlooking Bermuda’s Bermuda’sfamous famousturquoise turquoise Belmont Hills Overlooking seasea Belmont Hills GolfGolf ClubClub feafeatures Bermuda’s first ever championshipgolf golfcourse coursecombined combinedwith with aa first tures Bermuda’s first ever championship class teaching facility. Belmont Hills Golf Club recently received the Bermuda Gold, Best of Bermuda Awards for the “best place to play a round of golf.” HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 438 567 148 458 380 370 517 213 383

PAR 4 5 3 4 4 4 5 3 4

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 350 443 383 235 393 412 235 507 410

PAR 4 4 4 3 4 4 3 5 4










TOTAL 6,842


PORT ROYAL GOLF COURSE • 234-0974 Owned / Operated by the Bermuda Government

Port Royal is the longest course in Bermuda and offers a great challenge for all who play it. With its spectacular views of the ocean it is a course not to missedby byvisitors. visitors. After be missed After a round of relax golf, at relax Port Royal’s 64º a round of golf, PortatRoyal’s 64º RestauRestaurant and the watch the sunset to off round off a perfect day in paradise. rant and watch sunset to round a perfect day in paradise.

22 guide

what’s on golf guide

Eisenhower golfed on our island HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 469 151 360 355 500 387 190 336 192

TOTAL 2,940

PAR 5 3 4 4 5 4 3 4 3 35

OCEAN VIEW GOLF COURSE • 295-9092 Owned / Operated by the Bermuda Government

This superbly challenging course has proven to be as competitive as it is picturesque. The elevated, central location offers wide North Shore vistas. With 18 tee positions, you’ll want to add a second nine to your conquest of the first. Website:

HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 152 145 142 178 183 110 133 149 126

PAR 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 135 113 128 126 211 141 174 150 188

PAR 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3











TOTAL 2,684


Bermuda’s only 18 hole par 3 course was designed by Theodore G. Robinson and was rated four-star by Golf Digest’s best places to play. The average playing time is under three hours, with every iron in the bag being called into play over a hilly, panoramic ocean-view layout. guide 23

practicalities What you need to know Your concierge might know an awful lot, but you can’t take him to the beach. Here’s a handy list of things you ought to know.

n Airlines Air Canada Reservations: Tel: 1-888-247-2262. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1777. American Airlines Tel: 1-800-433-7300. AirTran 1-800-AIR-TRAN (247-8726) or 678-254-7999. British Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-247-9297. Airport customer service: Tel: 293-1944. Continental Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-231-0856. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3092. Delta Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-221-1212. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1024. JETBLUE Tel: 1-800-JETBLUE (538-2583). U.S. Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-622-1015. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3073. WestJet Tel: 1-888-WESTJET (937-8538).

n Airport L.F. Wade International Airport (tel: 2932470) is located in St. George’s at the east end of the island. Allow 30 minutes from the city of Hamilton by taxi. Check-in two hours before departure.

n Banks Normally open from 9am to 4pm, Mon-Fri. There are many ATMs across the island.

24 guide

n Buses All bus routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave the Bus Terminal on Washington Street. (See page 45 for schedule). Cash fares require exact change. Dollar bills are not accepted. Adult cash fare is $3 up to 3 zones, $4.50 for longer journeys. Tokens are $2.50 for 3 zone trips and $4 for longer trips. Passes are available: one-day pass $12, two days $20, three days $28, four days $35, seven days $45 or one month, $55. For children (aged 5-16) cash fare is $2 and transportation passes range from $6 per day up to $22.50 for seven days. Children under five ride free. Tokens, tickets and passes may be used on buses or ferries and are available at ferry terminals, the central bus terminal, hotels and post offices. (The fares listed here are subject to change). Tel: 292-3851 •

n Business Hours Stores normally open from 9am to 5pm Monday to Saturday. Many grocery stores open 1-5pm on Sunday, most other stores are closed on Sundays.

n Consulate The U.S. Consulate is located on Crown Hill, 16 Middle Road, Devonshire, tel: 295-1342. Open Mon to Fri 8am - 4:30pm. Consular services are provided by appointment only, except for adult passport renewals and additional visa pages, which may be dropped off. For details, visit For after-hours life or death emergencies for American citizens only, contact the duty officer at (441) 335-3828. Honorary Consuls for other countries are also represented. See the telephone directory for listings.

n Country Codes U.S. & Canada — 
dial 1 plus area code plus no.
 U.K. — 
dial 011 plus 44 plus area code plus no. Caribbean — 
dial 1 plus area code plus seven digits.

Shark oil barometers forecast weather.

what’s on practicalities

n Currency & Credit Cards

n Taxis

The Bermuda dollar is equal in value to the U.S. dollar; both are legal tender. Traveller’s cheques and credit cards are accepted at most shops, restaurants and hotels.

Cabs are safe and comfortable. Rates are controlled by law at $6.40 for the first mile and $2.25 for each additional mile for 1-4 passengers. Rates increase after midnight, Sundays and public holidays with a 25% surcharge for 1-4 passengers and a 50% surcharge for 5-6 passengers. Taxis may also be hired by the hour or day.

n Emergency Call 911 and specify whether you need police, the fire service or an ambulance.

n Ferries The best way to get around; ferries are usually quicker than buses and the views are better. All ferries depart from the terminal on Front Street, Hamilton. Regular ferries cross Hamilton Harbour and faster catamarans visit Somerset, Dockyard and St. George’s. Scooters are allowed on some routes.

n Hospital King Edward VII Memorial Hospital (tel. 2362345) is a large, first-rate facility owned and operated by the Bermuda Government and located on Point Finger Road in Paget Parish. An associate of the American Hospital Association. Airlifts can be arranged to the U.S. or Canada.

n Mail The General Post Office is located at 56 Church Street Hamilton (tel: 297-7893), with 12 sub-offices islandwide. Airmail leaves and arrives daily. Rates for airmail postcards to North America are 70¢; Europe 80¢; Africa, Asia, Australia and New Zealand 90¢.

n Nightlife You’ll find live music venues and nightclubs mainly in Hamilton where there’s a good choice of laid back pubs and upscale bars. Some hotels also offer live music and dancing. Most restaurants are closed well before midnight — but ask a local and they’ll point you to a take-out joint if you need a fried food fix in the early hours. Looking for strip clubs or casinos? Not here. This is a place where going bare-chested in town can get you into trouble with the law. And we’re talking about men, in broad daylight. Decorum’s a watchword.

n TV & Radio Three main local channels screen a nightly news bulletin — VSB (channel 11), ZBM (9) and ZFB (7). A government station, CITV, is on channel 2 and there’s a small handful of local radio stations. The quality of local programming varies considerably.

n Time Differences New York — one hour behind Bermuda Los Angeles — four hours behind London — four hours ahead
 Toronto — one hour behind Daylight Savings Time comes into effect from the second Sunday in March through to the first Sunday in November.

n Tipping In most cases, a service charge or gratuity has been added to the bill. Where the gratuity has not been added, 15% is about right.

n Water Tap water is safe to drink, unless you are instructed otherwise. Bermuda has no rivers, streams or reservoirs; all our water comes from rain. Bermuda roofs are painted with a limestone wash that purifies the water as it trickles down into underground tanks. Electric pumps send the water up to the tap.

n Weather Bermuda’s sub-tropical climate is generally mild and humid. The average annual temperature is 76ºF. Monthly averages: January 65ºF, water 66ºF; April 67ºF, water 68ºF; July 80ºF, water 81ºF; October 75ºF, water 76ºF. In an average year we see rain on 171 days and sunshine on 200 days. guide 25

practicalities How to stay safe on a rental bike By SIMON JONES | One of the best ways to see Bermuda is on two wheels. Follow our tips to stay safe: • Hire from a reputable firm and check the bike is in good condition; • Helmets are mandatory — but useless unless they fit and are secured properly; • We drive on the left — just like the Brits; • Drive defensively and wear bright clothes to aid your visibility to others; • Wear sneakers or closed-toe shoes — topple off your bike in flip-flops and you could easily lose a digit; • The speed limit is 35kph; stick to it and don’t feel obliged to keep up with other road users; • Leave plenty of space between your-

self and other vehicles and don’t get too close to the curb; • Never turn around to look behind you while riding; • Never stop on a bend or a hill’s brow; • Drive slower when it’s wet; • When riding in a group, put the slowest rider at the front; • Traffic at roundabouts goes clockwise, so as you approach one, slow down and give way to vehicles coming from the right; • NEVER drink and ride; • On weekdays, avoid rush hour city traffic (7.30-9.30am and 4-6pm). Wheels Cycles Moped & Scooter Rentals is at 117 Front Street, Hamilton,

tel: 292-2245 n

Wheels Cycles Ltd.

13 Dundonald St., Hamilton, Bermuda Tel: 441-292-2245 Email: Discover the beauty of Bermuda at your own speed with our easy to ride, Peugeot double seater scooter. Single seaters also available. * Open 7 Days a week * No deposit required * All major credit cards welcomed * No license required * Third party insurance included * Complete instructions & safety tips 26 guide

go shopping

Photo by Kageaki Smith

World-famous Front Street, home to many of our most upscale stores.

Classy stores, no sales tax You’ve already proved you have good taste by choosing to visit Bermuda so it’s fitting that our stores exude quality. There are bargains to be had — you’ll find hefty price differentials with the U.S. on jewellery, watches, perfume, silverware, porcelain and crystal. And you’ll enjoy additional relief at the cash register — there’s no sales tax. Many stores are in the City of Hamilton, but the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard, on the western tip of the island, boasts quality gift stores and boutique shops. And the historic town of St. George’s — at the east end of Bermuda — also has a lively shopping scene. Goods made here or produced exclusively for local stores include pottery, jewellery, paintings and prints, pottery, rum, honey, condiments, cedar ware, Bermuda shorts, scarves, fragrances and pillows. Browse the following listings for details. n

Bermuda Post Office Every year the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau compiles a collection of commemoratives and arranges them into an attractive presentation package. This collection continues the Bermuda Post Office’s efforts to portray all facets of Bermuda’s heritage, culture and history. The Bermuda Philatelic Bureau also services orders for current issues of Bermuda’s commemorative and definitive stamps and, for the convenience of collectors, provides a standing order account service with a minimum deposit of thirty dollars. In addition, they maintain a mailing list to provide details of new stamp releases to customers. 56 Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 297-7807 guide 27

go shopping

We used to export onions to the US free tour of their operations and to sample their exclusive and rare perfumes. The Bermuda Perfumery, Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street, St. George’s GE 05 Tel: 293-0627. Fax: 293-8810 1-800-527-8213 (toll free in US/Canada) Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 4pm (winter hours)

The Irish Linen Shop
 Photo by Kageaki Smith

Take a tour of the Bermuda Perfumery and stock up on unique gifts.

The Bermuda Perfumery The Bermuda Perfumery is located at historical Stewart Hall in the heart of St. George’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since 1928, The Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing fine ladies and gentlemen’s fragrances under the brand Lili Bermuda. All the perfumes are made on the premises at Stewart Hall. The Perfumery welcomes visitors for a free tour of its operations and to sample its unique fragrances. During the summer of 2011, Lili Bermuda launched ‘Alegria’, a fragrance for women. Alegria was created to celebrate the rich cultural heritage of Bermuda. Alegria is a white chypre fragrance with a heart of frangipani, Bermuda Cedar, tuberose and magnolia. Alegria is modern, international and elegant. The Perfumery’s perfume collection also includes exclusive creations inspired by our beautiful Island. Modern women will love Coral, Pink, and Lily, and men will not want to leave Bermuda without a bottle of our famous fragrances 32° North and 64° West. The ‘Water Collection’, casual and unisex, will please the affluent and international traveller. The Perfumery is passionate about the art of perfume making and continues to innovate by using both traditional and modern techniques to produce exceptional perfumes. You are welcome to visit for a

28 guide

Step inside our historic cottage shop and be inspired! Luxury products from all over the world have been an Irish Linen Shop trademark for over 60 years. Our exquisite table linen collection from Le Jacquard Francais, Bodrum, Settings by Mona, and Karen Lee Ballard along with our amazing selection of table accessories from Deborah Rhodes and Dransfield and Ross will create an unforgettable table setting. Hand embroidered linen from Madeira and double damask from Ireland are still time-honoured traditions at The Irish Linen Shop.
 Beautiful home fragrances from Antica Farmacista, Dayna Decker, Lafco and the oldest candle maker in France, Cire Trudon will delight your senses. Don’t stop until you experience our bath and body products from Baudelaire and Rain of South Africa. You deserve it!
Wait: The world of Michael Aram and Mariposa are the perfect solution when searching for a gift that will delight the recipient for years.
Our home décor selections from Zentique, Oomph, and Roost will transform your home and your outlook. 
 You’ll love the children’s boutique at The Irish Linen Shop. It’s the place to find beautiful hand smocked dresses from Chantal and the classic styles of Papo d’Anjo from Portugal. Later, dream away on the finest Egyptian cotton bedding from Yves Delorme, Sferra, Matouk, Peter Reed and Dans Nos Maisons. It’s all here, waiting for you at The Irish Linen Shop, where fine living begins.
31 Front Street, Hamilton.  Tel:  295-4089; Fax:  295-6552; e-mail:

…So much more than juSt LinenS!

Home Décor Fine GiFts LiFe’s Luxuries obviously you have great taste! 31 Front Street, Hamilton HM 11, Bermuda Hours: Monday-Saturday 10:00-6:00 P.M.

Tel: 441-295-4089

go shopping

Bermuda is built on a volcanic seamount

English Sports Shop The English Sports Shop was founded in 1918 and is Bermuda’s leading retailer of exclusive Bermuda designed Resort Wear for men and women. At The English Sports Shop you will find a wide variety of choices for men and women from classic colourful Bermuda shorts, knee socks, polo shirts, and blazers to suits and ties, and an array of knitwear in cotton, wool and cashmere. Don’t miss the store’s own “Island Casuals” collection including fun madras shorts, skirts and shirts. They also hire out formalwear for weddings and other functions or can make you a tailor made suit. 49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672 Water Street, St. George’s, tel: 297-0142 Mangrove Bay, Somerset, tel: 234-0770 Fairmont Southampton Princess, tel: 292-1107 Fairmont Hamilton Princess, tel: 295-9691

Bermuda Blue & Bermuda Breeze Imagine standing on the shoreline of Bermuda’s pristine, pink sandy beaches. Breathe. Take in the sea air, the aroma of natural fruits & flowers all around us... Bermuda Blue and Bermuda Breeze fragrances embrace much that is uniquely Bermuda. Bermuda Blue delicately captures the natural citrus, jasmine and lotus in the air with a nuance of crisp sea spray. It

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Bermuda Blue and Bermuda Breeze might help you re-live your visit to our island.

30 guide

dries down to a woody and vanilla base, managing to create a warm scent. Bermuda Breeze hints more of natural fruits, such as wild berries & mandarin, with a touch of jasmine — creating a lovely fruity floral. Packaging reflects the brilliant blues and greens of the local water, the immense blue sky, amid a pink sandy beach — capturing the essence of this beautiful island paradise. Take home a piece of Bermuda. Take home Bermuda Blue and Bermuda Breeze. Available through select stores across the Island and on-line including: Gibbons Company, Reid St., Hamilton Peniston Brown, St. George’s Perfume Shop, Dockyard Carole Holding, Front St., Hamilton Princess & Fairmont Southampton Brown & Co., Front St., Hamilton A.S. Cooper, Front St., Hamilton, branch and hotel stores Distributed by P.D.L. Limited Tel: (441) 292-1710.

The Island Shop The Island Shop features exclusive and original hand-painted ceramics by Barbara Finsness that capture the colourful architectural and natural features of Bermuda. There are fine linens that feature her original embroidered designs and a huge array of different gift items. The Island Shop is a ‘must visit’ during your stay for gift selections found nowhere else in the world! They will gift-wrap or mail your purchases if desired. Check out their online store at Winner of ‘The Best in Bermuda’ in retail giftware by The Bermudian magazine in 2004 and 2005. Looking for rugby shirts then take a look in the Island Shop located on the mezzanine floor at the Fairmont Southampton. Queen Street, Hamilton, tel: 292-5292. Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-1514 Fairmont Hotel, Southampton, tel: 238-5999


Many treasure-laden ships from

Hand-crafted treasures make great gifts Each year Walker Christopher Ltd. handcrafts a sterling silver Christmas ornament designed in our own workshop. For 2011 we have chosen to honor one of Bermuda’s most interesting underwater creatures — the Octopus (pictured). Although these invertebrates are very prevalent on our ocean floors, octopi are not easily spotted due to their excellent camouflage skills. The octopus is a stealthy predator catching, stinging and crushing its prey with its 8 legs, but few people know these creatures also have 3 hearts! The collection was begun in 1985. Previous ornaments and full sets may always be purchased at the 9 Front Street, Hamilton

showroom. The motifs are as follows: Longtail (1985); Bermuda Onion (1986); Bermuda Dinghy (1987); Angelfish (1988); Moongate (1989); Easter Lily (1990); Lizard (1991); Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse (1992); Bermudiana flower (1993); Frog (1994); Kite (1995); Heron (1996); Hibiscus (1997); Map of Bermuda Island (1998); Hog Shilling (1999); Tall Ship (2000); St. Peter’s Church (2001); Seahorse (2002); Gombey Dancer (2003); Green turtle (2004); Baygrape (2005); Bobby in the birdcage (2006); Land Crab (2007); Bermuda Cottage (2008); 400th anniversary (2009); and moped (2010). Each ornament bears the store logo, the year, “Bermuda” and the sterling silver hallmark. These tree ornaments can be converted to a brooch or pendant. The 2011 ornament is priced at $100; previous years are $120. Contact us at 441-295-1466 or

Our 2012 Christmas Ornament “The Bermuda Octopus” A Bermuda Christmas Tradition since 1985

The Perfect Bermuda Christmas Gift

9 Front Street, Hamilton • Tel: (441) 295-1466 Email: • Web: 32 guide

Europe were wrecked off Bermuda


Photo by Kageaki Smith

Impeccable personal service has been a hallmark of Crisson Jewellers for many years.

Crisson Jewellers Crisson jewellers embodies Bermuda’s finest and most cherished traditions. A family business since 1922, the Crisson name is synonymous with quality and value. The fabulous array of jewellery and watches reflect the style, sophistication and taste of our discerning customers. When you explore our exciting collections, we are sure you will agree that a visit to Crisson is the crowning moment of your Bermuda shopping experience. Along with the wonderfully eclectic collection of hand-selected pieces from all parts of the world, Crisson are Bermuda’s exclusive source for famous designers including David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, John Hardy, Kabana, Nanis, Pandora, Marah Largo Larimar, and Rebecca . As for diamonds of distinction, Crisson has Bermuda’s largest collection of spectacular cuts from Cento, Memoire, A. Jaffe and Endless Diamonds. When it comes to timepieces, Crisson is definitely the place! Crisson are the official-

ly authorised Rolex retailers in Bermuda. You will also find Tag Heuer, Ebel, Raymond Weil, Movado, Tudor, Philip Stein, Christian Dior, Frederique Constant and Fendi. There are also collections from Seiko, Swiss Army, Citizen, Casio, Luminox, Fruitz, Rotary, Toy Watch, Guess and Michael Kors. Crisson has two main stores on Front Street in Hamilton, with another on Queen Street. There’s a store in St. George’s and one in the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard. If you are staying in one of Bermuda’s major Hotels, you’ll find a Crisson store there as well. Each of these boutique-style stores features pieces selected from our main collections in Hamilton. The shopping experience is relaxed and intimate, and the quality, value and prices are the same whichever store you choose to visit. Crisson Jewellers, 16 Queen Street, 55 & 71 Front Street, Hamilton Water Street, St. George’s, Clocktower Mall, Dockyard, and all major hotels. Tel: 295-2351 guide 33

food & drink

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Elegant and classy, Barracuda Grill is a reliable choice for lunch or dinner.

Time to eat Our island is small but it offers an abundance of dining options. Casual dress is acceptable at most restaurants, though some upscale eateries require a jacket and tie. And it’s best to make reservations. The dollar signs (see our key, below) offer a rough guide to prices. Also visit www.bermuda. com for updated information. Barracuda Grill

tête’s. If a little early for your reservation, join the other guests at the cozy, hip and Barracuda Grill is one of Bermuda’s most tres chic bar with its glowing amber cocelebrated restaurants, and is THE place loured resin topped side bar, and enjoy marto go for outstanding seafood and chops tinis made to share, or one of more than 16 prepared in a contemporary style, proudly wines served by the glass.
The winning seven Best of Bermuda Restaurant Barracuda Grill, with its warm, Awards!
Breathtakingly stylish, price ranges lavish and inviting interior hints Barracuda features warm maper person at a time of luxurious passenger hogany woods, plush banquettes $ Under $20 ships, popping champagne corks, and an undeniably sumptuous and refined dining, all contem$$ $20-$40 but ever so comfortable dining porized to be thoroughly of the $$$ $40-$50 room, suitable for power busimoment. Irresistible seafood and $$$$ Over $50 ness meals or romantic tête-à- guide 35

food & drink

We used the aloe plant with water

chops prepared with expertise and passion take centre stage on immaculate whitelit linen covered tables.

5 Burnaby Hill (above the Hog Penny), Hamilton, tel: 292-1609. Fax 292-8354 

 Lunch $$ Dinner $$$

Chatham House Bermuda’s leading specialty tobacco shop, established in 1895. Offering a marvellous selection of fine tobaccos and gifts for visitors, satisfaction is guaranteed. Our extensive range includes English Briar pipes, and a selection of Havanas such as Punch, Partagas, Romeo y Julieta, Upmann, Montecristo, Cohiba and Bolivar — all at good savings over U.S. prices. Corner of Front and Burnaby Streets, Hamilton. Tel: 292-8422

East Meets West Bar & Restaurant Bermuda’s favorite Indian and Continen-

tal cuisine, our food has been widely and enthusiastically commended for its flavour, quality and value for money. We offer a wide choice in beef, chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian curries as well as rice dishes, samosas and naan breads. Southampton location offers indoor or outdoor dining with a large outdoor full bar area. Reservations Recommended. East Meets West (Southampton) 11 Industrial Park Road (next to the Mini Golf) Tel. 238-8580 Lunch: Mon- Sat 11:30am – 2:30pm Dinner: Mon- Sun 6:00pm – 10:30pm Take out service: Mon – Sun: 11am – 11pm Lunch $ Dinner $

East Meets West Take Out Bistro Located on Queen Street, the bistro offers culinary influences ranging from Asia to California. In the Bermudiana Arcade, 2nd Floor



dinner (per person) at Fourways Inn Resturant This coupon cannot be used with any other offer(s). Expires March 2012. 1 Middle Road, Paget | 236-6517

Expires March 2012

36 guide

and sugar to clear acne 27 Queen Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-8580 Open: Mon- Sat 7:30am – 10:00pm Lunch $ Dinner $

Fourways Fourways Inn Restaurant is the Grande Dame of Bermuda’s restaurants, famous for its celebrity guest list, renowned menus, signature dishes and Bermuda’s most lavish Sunday brunch. Live piano music in the evening and the most extensive wine cellar on island for discerning connoisseurs, regularly re-stocked from Sotheby’s. Everything about Fourways is geared towards making your dining experience second to none. We are the most elegant gourmet restaurant focused on the total satisfaction of our guests. As a Four Diamond establishment with many local accolades, we are proud to be winners of awards such as ‘The Best Chef’, ‘The Most Attentive Staff’ and ‘The Most Overindulgent Brunch’. Fourways Inn

food & drink Restaurant in Paget offers you sophisticated seclusion and Old World charm. Mr. Andreas Detzer (Manager), Mr. Tommy Poh (Executive Chef), Mr. Alex Rech (Maître d’), and the rest of the team hope to see you soon! Middle Road, Paget. Tel. 236-6517 Dinner $$$$

Hog Penny Restaurant and Pub

 The Hog Penny is Hamilton’s oldest licensed establishment, having been in business since 1957 and interestingly is the original inspiration for the Cheers pub in Boston. Authentic is not a word used lightly at Hog Penny, and our 50-plus year history gives us a delightful patina of age that you just can’t replicate. Our record has been hard earned!
Gourmet Magazine, in a December 1987 article exclaimed “it was love at first sight for us, as well as the throngs who Continued on page 40 guide 37

food & drink

We use loquats to make jam and cake

Continued from page 37

flock here”, and as Gourmet wrote, this great institution is hard to beat for a truly authentic experience.
Featuring great cuts of beef, genuine Indian curries, to-die-for hearty pub style comfort food that has won countless ‘Best of Bermuda’ awards, and having been featured on The Food Network’s ‘$40 A Day’, the Hog Penny has and continues to be a favourite spot in Bermuda for generations of locals and visitors alike! 
5 Burnaby Hill (Just up from Front Street) Hamilton.

Tel. 292-2534 Fax 292-8354 Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Victoria Grill The Victoria Grill is an upscale-casual restaurant, quick service café, and cocktail bar, located at the centre of Hamilton, at 29 Victoria Street. Bespoke sophistication and urban chic exude from every each of the three distinct segments that make up the whole VICTORIA GRILL experience: Java Jive is a quick service gourmet café featuring take away specialty coffees, fresh baked goods, unique breakfast items,

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The spacious Victoria Grill is a happening spot in the heart of the city.

40 guide

and lunches to go, served by 2011 Best of Bermuda awarded customer service. Enjoy your cappuccino and Breakfast Sausage Cheddar & Egg Muffin, North Rock Chicken Wrap or Tuna Melt Panini while seated on our elevated street level patio, shaded by large awnings, and watch the hustle and bustle of Victoria Street, Hamilton’s growing financial and legal district. Rumba°r features a 25-seat onyx stone bar and cocktail tables setting a delightful scene indoors.  A covered outdoor lounge and below street courtyard beckons, with low tables and upholstered chairs and banquettes. Retractable roofing can be quickly deployed to cover the courtyard. Rumba°r is a perfect destination for small and large gatherings of friends, associates or business colleagues from 2 to 200. Our full menu includes delicious Kobe beef burgers, fresh crisp salads, steaks and fish entrees, and of course a wide selection of appetizers.   Reserve the total privacy of the V.I.P. Room which, with a flick of a switch, is converted from see through glass to opaque seclusion for that privately staffed business lunch or dinner for up to 12. Victoria Grill.  The perfect place for that important business lunch or power dinner, gatherings of friends, or simply to enjoy an intimate dining experience for two. With a mix of private tables or upholstered booths in the inside dining room, and cushioned wicker armchairs and tables overlooking the below street courtyard on our outdoor verandah, Victoria Grill is in the very heart of Hamilton surrounded by sleek offices of International and Local Companies.   The feeling is of a classic city bistro, with numerous wines available by the glass Victoria Grill can seat 50 guests inside and 50 outside. With lots of street parking, Victoria Grill is open for Lunch on Monday to Friday, and dinner seven nights a week. 29 Victoria Street, Hamilton. Tel. 296-5050 Java Jive $, Rumbar $$, Victoria Grill $$-$$$

made in bermuda

Artist draws from nature to craft unique jewellery Bermudian artist Alexandra Mosher draws from the island’s natural beauty to create extraordinary and unique pieces of jewellery. She incorporates our pink coral sand into her handcrafted designs and uses sterling silver and gold to create delightful keepsakes. “I developed a love for craft at a very young age,” she told us, “often creating sculptures out of found objects.”

Alexandra studied jewellery design, fabrication and wax carving at The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and launched her jewellery line in 2005. Her work is organic, elegant, highly collectible — and available at local outlets including AS Cooper (branches islandwide) and Sovereign Jewellers in Hamilton. Alexandra also ships internationally: see n


Bermuda Reef Collection

Sterling Silver & Coral Sand Ribbon Necklace

Art jewellery inspired by Bermuda’s beauty

Available at Fine Bermuda Retailers and Galleries ¦ guide 41



MON DAY VISITOR GOLF TOURNAMENT Southampton* Port Royal Golf Course ~ Book your tee-off time early, 234-0974

THE BERMUDA INSTITUTE OF OCEAN SCIENCES TOUR Ferry Road, St. George’s 10:00 a.m. ~ No tour Dec 28, 2011 & Jan 4, 2012

GUIDED WALKING TOUR City of Hamilton 10:00 a.m. ~ Departs Bermuda National Library’s verandah on Queen Street; ends at Fort Hamilton ~ No tour on Dec 26, 2011 & Jan 2, 2012

HISTORICAL HOUSE TOURS Verdmont, Smith’s* and Tucker House, Town of St. George* 10:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. Verdmont 10:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. Tucker House ~ Admissions to both required

SESSIONS HOUSE TOUR City of Hamilton 11:00 a.m. ~ Meet at the door for a 45-min tour ~ No tour on Dec 26, 2011 & Jan 2, 2012

OLD TOWN TOUR & HISTORICAL RE-ENACTMENT Town of St. George 10:30 a.m. Guided tour 11:45 a.m. Mayor greets visitors 12 noon Ducking ~ Meet in King’s Square for all activities

SKIRLING CEREMONY City of Hamilton 12 noon ~ Fort Hamilton ~ No Ceremony on Dec 26, 2011 & Jan 2, 2012

T U E SDAY BOTANICAL GARDENS TOUR Paget 10:30 a.m. ~ Meet at Berry Hill entrance near Botanical Gardens Visitor’s Centre 12 noon – 2:00 p.m. Visit ‘Camden’ BERMUDA GOMBEY REVUE City of Hamilton 4:00 p.m. ~ No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front St. ~ No event on Dec 6 & 13, 2011

W E DN E SDAY VISITOR GOLF TOURNAMENT Devonshire* Ocean View Golf Course ~ Book your tee-off time early, 295-9093 FORT ST. CATHERINE St. George’s* 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. ~ Reduced admission on Wednesdays. ~ No openings on Dec 26 & 27, 2011

BOTANICAL GARDENS TOUR Paget 10:30 a.m. ~ Meet at Berry Hill entrance near Botanical Gardens Visitor’s Centre CHIT CHAT Royal Naval Dockyard* 10:00 a.m. ~ Dolphin Quest in the National Museum of Bermuda ~ Admission to the National Museum of Bermuda is required BERMUDA COOKERY DEMONSTRATION City of Hamilton 2:30 – 4:00 p.m. ~ No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front St. ~ No demo on Nov 30 & Dec 7, 2011

T H U R SDAY VISITOR GOLF TOURNAMENT Southampton* Port Royal Golf Course ~ Book your tee-off time early, 234-0974 WALK & SLIDE SHOW Somerset 10:00 a.m. Learn history & architecture 11:15 a.m. 20-minute slide show ~ Departs Somerset Country Squire restaurant

BERMUDA AQUARIUM, MUSEUM & ZOO CURATOR’S TOUR North Shore Road, Hamilton Parish* 1:00 p.m. ~ Maximum 12 people; first-come, first-served ~ Admission to BAMZ is required, children under 5 free HANDS ON CRAFT R.N. Dockyard 1:00 – 4:00 p.m. ~ Bermuda Craft Market DISCOVERING THE ROYAL NAVAL DOCKYARD 2:00 – 3:15 p.m. The development of the Dockyard ~ Meet in front of the Cooperage on Maritime Lane 3:20 – 4:00 p.m. ~ Meet in Victualling Yard for microbrewery tour

F R I DAY BOTANICAL GARDENS TOUR Paget 10:30 a.m. ~ Meet at Berry Hill entrance near Botanical Gardens Visitor’s Centre 12 noon – 2:00 p.m. Visit ‘Camden’

SAT U R DAY HISTORICAL HOUSE TOUR Water Street, Town of St. George* 10:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m. Tucker House ~ Admission required. OLD TOWN TOUR & HISTORICAL RE-ENACTMENT Town of St. George 10:30 a.m. Guided tour 11:45 a.m. Mayor greets visitors 12 noon Ducking ~ Meet in King’s Square for all activities DOLPHIN SHOW Royal Naval Dockyard* 1:00 p.m. Admission to the National Museum of Bermuda is required.

SU N DAY ROYAL NAVAL DOCKYARD TOUR 11:30 a.m. ~ Meet at the Anchor Fountain outside Clocktower building ~ Approximately 1 hour long ~ No tour on Dec 25, 2011 DOLPHIN SHOW R.N. Dockyard* 1:00 p.m. ~ Admission to the National Museum of Bermuda is required. ~ No show on Dec 25, 2011 HANDS ON CRAFT R.N. Dockyard 1:00 – 4:00 p.m. ~ Bermuda Craft Market

TASTE OF BERMUDA CALYPSO SUNDAYS Royal Naval Dockyard 1:30 – 3:30 p.m. ~ Bermuda Craft Market A WALK ON THE RAILWAY TRAIL TO THE HERBAL GARDENS Paget 2:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. ~ Tour begins at Railway Trail entrance, South Road in Paget ~ No tour Dec 18 & 25, 2011 and Jan 1, 2012

DA I LY MADE IN BERMUDA: DOCKYARD GLASSWORKS & THE BERMUDA RUM CAKE COMPANY Royal Naval Dockyard ~ Open daily, 8:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. Glassworks demos Mon – Fri and Sun, 9:00 a.m. – 4:30 p.m. ~ Closed Dec 25, 2011 & Jan 1, 2012 BERMUDA AQUARIUM, MUSEUM & ZOO North Shore Road, Hamilton Parish* See Thursday for Curator’s Tour ~ Open daily, 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. (last admission 4:00 p.m.) ~ Closed December 25, 2011 ~ Admission to BAMZ is required, children under 5 years free

FORT ST. CATHERINE St. George’s* See Wednesday for reduced admission day ~ Open: Mon – Fri, 9:00a.m. – 4:00p.m. ~ Closed Dec 26 & 27, 2011 ~ Regular admission on Mon, Tue, Thur & Fri ~ 75% wheelchair accessible, including restrooms TALKING ABOUT BERMUDA A FREE lecture series featuring a variety of topics. All lectures held on weekdays from 11:00 a.m. – 12:00 p.m. Full schedule included in the Bermuda Rendezvous Activities brochure. RESOURCES FOR ENQUIRIES: • Department of Community & Cultural Affairs, 292-1681 • Department of Tourism, 292-0023 • Visitor Information Centres: City of Hamilton, 295-1480 Town of St. George, 297-1423 Royal Naval Dockyard, 238-4842 NOTE: Some activities may not be available due to a public holiday. Refer to the brochure for full details. * Indicates a fee or admission is required. Information correct at press time, November 2011 and is subject to change without notice.

history America and Bermuda: how our histories are entwined


visitors and business folk are the lifeblood of Bermuda’s economy and we enjoy long-standing ties built on mutual respect and admiration. History shows, however, that it hasn’t always been so. We’ve had our share of skirmishes and there are good reasons why our little speck of land, just 750 miles off North Carolina, was never annexed by the Americans but instead remained a British colony. The forts dotted across Bermuda provide us with tangible clues. Britain, you’ll recall, was at war against the rebellious American colonies in the mid 1770s and in 1812 we were at war again. With the loss of naval bases in the American colonies, Bermuda, strategically placed between Canada and the Caribbean, became vital to the Royal Navy. It played a pivotal role in the defence of British

Photo courtesy of Lt. Col. Tim Spicer, OBE

Presidential visit: US President Dwight Eisenhower met with British Prime Minister Winston Churchill and French Premier Joseph Laniel here in December 1953 when Bermuda hosted her first Summit Conference.

interests and proved too difficult a target for a fledgling U.S. navy. The island was first fortified at the time of settlement in 1612 to protect against Spanish and pirate attacks. By the end of the American

44 guide


Bermuda is the oldest British colony. Revolutionary War, 50 forts stood against the threat posed by the new Independent Colonies. Royal Naval Dockyard was built in the early 1800s to solidify the island’s defences and ensure Britain’s dominance in the western Atlantic. By the late 19th century, the island was transformed into ‘fortress Bermuda’. Despite these conflicts, Bermudians have always maintained close ties with the U.S. through trade, family ties and friendship. There was sympathy here for the Colonists’ cause in 1775; a group of prominent Bermudians conspired with the rebel colonies in America to steal the island’s supply of gunpowder — a crime for which no one was charged. Bermuda profited during the calamity of the American Civil War as a centre for blockade running. President Lincoln had ordered a naval blockade of Southern ports to stop cotton supplies getting out. Here, St. George’s was a hub of activity,

with 1,800 blockade-runners stopping at Bermuda with their cargo en route to Southern ports. The boom times ended in 1864 when an outbreak of yellow fever on the island discouraged ships from landing. It is ironic, given that the bulk of Bermuda’s fortifications were in place to deal with an American threat, that the island’s defence was handed over to U.S. forces during World War II. The U.S. Naval Air Station at Kindley Field, St. David’s, was operational until 1995 and was seen as strategically useful during the Cold War. The Americans introduced us to the motor car and built an international airfield, which helped tourism and international business take off. From the time of the Jamestown colony 400 years ago, Bermuda’s history has been intertwined with that of the United States. By exploring Bermuda’s history, American visitors will inevitably learn more about their own. n

Photo courtesy of the National Museum of Bermuda

The U.S. Army installing the northern 6-inch gun at Fort Victoria, St. George’s, to protect the eastern approach to the island against enemy attack in 1943. guide 45

what’s on

Jam-packed January events n Book club Jan 7 The History of Literature Club holds its first monthly meeting. Wine and cheese. 6pm, venue TBA. E-mail bermudalit@

n Tokio Youth Mountain Bike Series Jan 7, 15, 21, 28 Free race series encourages children to cycle for fitness and fun. At the Arboretum, 4pm. (Jan 15, Ferry Reach at 2pm). E-mail or, or tel. 297-6700.

n Just for Laughs Jan 12-14 International comics at the Fairmont Southampton Resort. Stand-ups include Alonzo Bodden (US), Ryan Hamilton (US), Derek Edwards (Canada) and Alun Cochrane (UK), plus Jonathan Young (Bermuda). Mid-Ocean Ampitheatre, 8pm Thursday, 8:30pm Friday, 7pm and 10pm Saturday. Plus one-man show, Best of Alonzo Bodden, at the City Hall Theatre, Jan 11, 8pm, $45. Tickets or Compiled by Amanda Dale. Listings are subject to change. For the latest, use the numbers provided/websites or visit www. To submit a listing, e-mail Amanda Dale: or call her on 278-1854

46 guide

n Bermuda Marathon Weekend Jan 13-15 One mile and 10k races, a half and a full marathon. Jan 13, 6:30pm, KPMG Bermuda Invitational Mile, Front Street, Hamilton Jan 14, 10am, Bermuda 10k and 10k walk, National Sports Centre Jan 15, 8am, Bermuda Marathon and Half Marathon, Front Street. E-mail info@ or tel. 2960951.

n Bermuda Festival of Performing Arts January 17-31 (See pages 6-8)

n Film night January 17 Breaker Morant (1980, 104 minutes), Boer war drama. BHCS Room, Bermuda National Library, 7-9pm. Dept. of Community and Cultural Affairs, tel. 292-1681.

n Bermuda Regional Tournament January 21-27 Bridge tournament starts with black tie Charity Game. Fairmont Southampton Resort.

n Golf Mondays and Thursdays Visitors’ Golf Tournament — Visiting golfers are invited to play at Port Royal Golf Course, 9am-12pm. $110 for 18 holes, including cart, $25 for club rentals. Book in advance at 234-0974. Wednesdays At Ocean View Golf Course, book your tee-off time. Tel. 295-9093.

what’s on

St George’s is a World Heritage Site n Walk and slide show

n Bermuda Perfumery

Thursdays Wander through the pastel lanes of Somerset and learn about history, architecture, medicinal plants and herbs. Somerset Country Squire, 10-11.30am. Free.

Mon-Sat Founded in 1928. At Queen Street, St. George’s, 10am-4pm. Tel. 293-0627.


n Fairmont Hamilton Princess wine and dining Martini Mondays — mixologists create a specialty martini at Heritage Court. Oysters & Chablis — Heritage Court, Thursdays, from 5pm. Sunday Brunch — enjoy traditional favourites at Harley’s Restaurant and Harbour Terrace, Sundays, 12pm-3:30pm. Afternoon Tea — served daily at Heritage Court, 2:30-5pm. Tel. 295-3000.

n St George’s Wednesdays and Saturdays Tour of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Town Hall, King’s Square, 10:30am. Free.

n St Peter’s Church tours Mondays to Saturdays Built from Bermuda Cedar in 1612, St Peter’s Church is the oldest Anglican church in continuous use outside Britain. 10am-4pm, free. Sunday Worship 11:15am. York Street, St George’s.

n Skirling Ceremony

n Royal Naval Dockyard

Mondays Kilted pipers, drummers and dancers perform the bagpipe ‘skirl’ of the Bermuda Islands Pipe Band. Fort Hamilton, 12 noon, except January 2. Free.

Thursdays, 2pm, meet at the Cooperage. Microbrewery tour, 3:20pm, at the Victualling Yard. Free. Sundays, 11:30am, meet at the Anchor Fountain.

Bus Schedule

Route Fare Leaving Hamilton’s Central Number Zone Bus Terminal (time past the hour)

Airport Aquarium Belmont Hotel Botanical Gardens Caves (Crystal and Leamington) Dockyard Elbow Beach Gibbs Hill Lighthouse Grotto Bay Hotel Horseshoe Bay Beach Hospital Mangrove Bay (Somerset) National Museum of Bermuda Bermuda Perfumery John Smith’s Bay Beach Fairmont Southampton Resort Town of St. George

1, 3, 10, 11 10 11 8 1, 2, 7 1, 3 7, 8 2, 7 7 1, 3, 10, 11 7 1, 2, 7 7, 8 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11 1 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11

14 00 3 00 3 00 3 00 14 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 14 00 14 00 3 3 00 14 00

15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30

45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 guide 47

what’s on

Our Botanical Gardens opened in 1898

n Railway Trail Sundays (except Jan 1) Tour to the Herbal Gardens, 2-4pm. Meet at the Railway Trail entrance, South Road, Paget (next to Harmony Club). Free.

n Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo Thursdays Curator’s Tour, 1pm, maximum 12 people. Flatts Village, 
Hamilton Parish. Adults $10, children and seniors $5, under-fives go free. 
Tel. 293-2727,

n Walking Club of Bermuda Sundays Jan 8: Chaplin Bay, South Road, Warwick Jan 15: Botanical Gardens, Paget (meet at Visitors’ Centre) Jan 22: Church Bay, Southampton (meet at overlook) Jan 29: Spittal Pond, Smith’s (meet at western entrance) All walks free, meet at 7am. Tel. 737-0437 or see

n National Museum of Bermuda Open daily 9:30am-5pm, last admission 4pm. Adults $10, seniors $8, children 5-15 years $5. Royal Naval Dockyard. Tel. 234-1418, e-mail

n Bermuda Historical Society Museum Mon-Wed and Fridays 400 years of Bermuda history. Library building, Queen Street. 10am-1pm. Free.

n Tucker House Museum Wednesdays and Saturdays 18th century merchant’s house. Adults $5, children $2. Open 10am-2pm. St. George’s. Tel. 297-0545.

n St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden. Mon-Thurs and Saturdays Historic home with antique furnishings and artifacts giving a glimpse into Bermuda’s past. Open 10am-4pm, $5.

48 guide

arts n Bermuda National Gallery New Acquisition Highlights, 2007-11. Work by Carl Broemel, Bessie Gray, Kathy Harriott, Donald Kirkpatrick, Bill Ming, Chesley Trott and Henry Liam Ward. Re-Interpreting the European Collection. Work by local and international artists including James Cooper, Louisa Flannery, Charlie Godet Thomas, Titus Kaphar, Sunell Lombard, Lynn Morrell, Alan C Smith and Sharon Wilson. Free. Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm, and Sat, 10am-2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel. 295-9428.

n Bermuda Society of Arts Until Jan 4 — Members’ Winter Show; Orchids by Kelly Hunt; Good Morning Bermuda by Scott Gemmell; Pulp Fiction by Ampah Tivakam-Hubbard. Further exhibitions TBA. See www.bsoa. bm. Free. Monday to Friday, 10am-4pm, Saturday, 10am-2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel. 292-3824.

n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art A Rock and the Ocean. Artwork from the permanent collection. Monday to Saturday, 10am-4pm, $5 admission. Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel. 236-2950. E-mail:

n Wither The Fates: Bermuda’s Beginnings 17th century Bermuda artifacts at the World Heritage Centre, Water Street, St. George’s. Monday to Saturday, 10am-4pm, $5 adults, $2 children. Tel. 297-5791.

n Bermuda Arts Centre Exhibits by local artists. Free. Monday to Sunday, 11am-4pm. Dockyard. Tel. 234-2809. E-mail: a

gu覺de january 2012

Be dazzled Festival of Performing Arts offers a feast of culture Shopping, sightseeing, dining, culture

Free guide January 2012 has a sister - the guide! This guide is a handy visitor magazine that's packed with useful info and available all ov... guide January 2012 has a sister - the guide! This guide is a handy visitor magazine that's packed with useful info and available all ov...