Page 1 guide | december 2010

guÄąde december 2010

Season’s greetings Festive fun in paradise Our ambassadors The African art collector Shopping, sightseeing, dining, culture


© d. yurman 2010



Photo by Kageaki Smith

Festive highlights — see pages 6-7

n Arts

n Practicalities

galleries & shows 15

health, customs etc 42-46

n Events

n Real Estate

festive fun 6-7 calendar 11-15

ownership options 41

n Food & drink

flex the plastic 47-53

meet the chef 8-10 best places to eat 54-64 classic local recipes 62 pub guide 64

n Shopping n Sightseeing east to west 25-39

n Sports & Activities

n History

golf, tennis etc 21

shipwreck monument 4 best historic sites 38-39

n Transportation

bus info 44 bus schedule 46 island map between 24 & 25 ferry info 45 ferry schedule 16 & 17 St. George’s 27 scooter rentals 46 Hamilton 34 how to ride safely 42 Dockyard 37

n Maps

n News new monument 4

n People meet the chef 8 our ambassadors 18-19

2 guide

n Weather what to expect 46

Co-publisher & advertising manager: Lisa Beauchamp, Tel: 278-1850 Co-publisher & editor-in-chief: Tony McWilliam, tmcwilliam@ Tel: 278-1860 Design & Layout: Creative Circle Media Consulting Account executive: Anona Everett Tel: 278-1832 Accounts: Donna Vesely Tel: 278-1831 Delivery: Lloyd Somner Cover photo: Tony McWilliam Contributors: Theresa Airey, Meredith Ebbin, Lance Furbert, Sirkka Huish, Simon Jones, Jamie Macmillan, Leanne McGrath, Kageaki Smith, James Whittaker. Special thanks to Alison Outerbridge guide Published by The Bermuda Sun a subsidiary of MediaHouse © Ltd. Printed by Island Press Ltd. Web: Information and services contained in the guide are believed to be correct at the time of printing; however, prices and times may be subject to change without notice. The Bermuda Sun Limited makes every effort to ensure accuracy but accepts no liability for errors or omissions. Reproduction in whole or in part by permission of the publisher only.

in the news

Shipwrecked sailors saluted A newly erected monument

Barry Road, not far from where

in St. George’s honours the survi-

150 survivors — among them two

vors of the Sea Venture, the ill-fated

pregnant women — waded ashore at

ship that carried our first settlers

Gates Bay. Fifty of them are known

from England.

to historians and their names are

The nine-foot monument, made

etched onto the monument. Towns-

from salvaged wood, mimics the

folk donned period costume for its

cross built by the survivors to claim


Bermuda for England. It is located at a high point off

As every Bermudian schoolchild knows, on June 2, 1609, a fleet of nine ships set sail from Plymouth and headed for Jamestown, Virginia. Seven weeks later, after a brutal storm lasting four days, one of those ships, the Sea Venture, ran aground. The monument is sure to renew interest in this remarkable story. n Photos by Kageaki Smith

4 guide

festive fun

Photo by Jamie Macmillan

Hamilton’s elegant City Hall, venue for the Christmas pantomime, The Firebird.

10 fun festive events By JAMES WHITTAKER | Not

everyone associates Christmas with swaying palms and sunny beaches but don’t be fooled — we know how to celebrate the season in style. Put these ten events on your ‘to do’ list. Christmas pantomime Men in tights, slap-dash humour and outrageous costumes — the annual ‘panto’ is a time-honoured British tradition that has crossed the pond to Bermuda. This year’s show is The Firebird – a Russian fairytale that runs December 9-18 at City Hall. Visit for details.

National Trust Christmas walkabout Mulled wine and mince pies by the fireside at historic homes will entice many to St George’s on Friday, December 3. Stroll

6 guide

through the quaint streets and drop in at various Trust properties. There will be musical entertainment and Christmas readings.

Christmas on the beach If you’re sick of sherry and old movies on Christmas Day, how about champagne on the beach? Elbow Beach is the place to be on December 25. Crowds pack the beach to celebrate in style and some brave souls take a dip.

Santa at the zoo Seals, parrots, sharks and an alligator are usually enough to keep kids enthralled at the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo. But when Santa visits, the animals take a back seat. The Christmas party on December 3 & 4 is a popular family event. Tel: 293-2727.

Late night shopping A Friday feature in Hamilton throughout

what’s fun on festive

Our Christmas trees come from Canada. December, organized by the Chamber of Commerce. Stores open until 9pm and there will be Christmas-themed entertainment.

Old Towne Market A welcome new feature in the historic town of St George is the Old Towne Market. Buy fresh fish from boats in the harbour or stroll around the stalls and soak up the festive atmosphere. Christmas lights and street musicians add to the appeal. From 2-6pm Sundays, until December 19. Visit:

Rock in the New Year Local production company 441 is famed for its New Year’s Eve parties. This year an Oasis and Kings of Leon tribute combination will be the top draw at the Fairmont Hamilton Princess. Ticket details:

Movies and fireworks For a family-themed New Year’s Eve,

enjoy an open-air movie on the waterfront in Hamilton. The 8pm movie is followed by live music and a countdown to midnight, with fireworks. Visit: www.

Christmas at the cathedral All of our churches welcome visitors. Many have family services and nativities on December 24 plus Christmas Day services. Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve at St Theresa’s Cathedral in Hamilton is always well attended. See the Bermuda Sun newspaper’s Faith section on Fridays for details.

A sporty Christmas International soccer, dirt bike racing and harness pony riding are the most popular sporting events over the festive period. Boxing Day and New Year’s Day are big days for sports fans. See the Bermuda Sun newspaper ( for listings. n

GOVERNMENT OF BERMUDA Ministry of Energy, Telecommunications and E-Commerce Bermuda Post Office

The Bermuda Post Office is pleased to offer “Dockyard Apprentices: Pioneers of Progress”, a series of four stamps depicting the role of Bermudian apprentices in the worldwide system of British Naval Dockyards.



Dockyard Apprentices

Dockyard Apprentices



Dockyard Apprentices

Dockyard Apprentices


meet the chef

Photo by Sarah Lagan

Jean-Claude Garzia toasts the launch of his new cookbook, Bon Appetit Bermuda. He is pictured at the chef’s table in the kitchen at Beau Rivage, where he conjures up delectable dishes for a discerning clientele.

French master serves up his secrets in new book By Sarah Lagan | It’s not often you get to discover the culinary secrets of one of the world’s top chefs but luckily for us, Jean-Claude Garzia wants to share his gifts. The owner and head chef at Beau Rivage, Mr. Garzia won the Best Chef In France award in 1997 — the top accolade in a country internationally renowned for its superb cuisine. Having worked on the island for 30 years, he has just released his second cookbook — Bon Appetit Bermuda. Now you can attempt to recreate some of the delectable dishes available at his sumptuous restaurant, which is part of Newstead Belmont Hills Resort & Spa. The book features 150 recipes, including traditional Bermudian cuisine Continued on page 10

8 guide

meet the chef

The dark ‘n’ stormy is our national drink.

Continued from page 8

and an array of traditional French dishes. Mr. Garzia’s last book, A Taste of Bermuda, published in 1999, sold 8,000 copies. He is printing 10,000 copies of Bob Appétit Bermuda. So, how does the revered chef feel about giving away his culinary secrets? “I don’t mind,” he smiles. “Everybody should share what they know and pass on the legacy of cooking. A cookbook is something to please people with and to give them a souvenir of Bermuda — it is a piece of knowledge. “Tourists can buy it and they will say ‘wow, this is something we can take home and share with our friends’.’” Mr. Garzia has put his own little twist on some local dishes. His Bermuda fishcakes, for example, are rectangular rather than round and adorned with little slices of avocado and banana. Among the most popular dishes fea-

tured in the book are Mr. Garzia’s chicken pie and multi-coloured lobster ravioli. There is also a traditional French recipe for frogs legs. “It is a typical French dish,” Mr. Garcia said, “but you can get frog’s legs anywhere here. Bermudians like them a lot — they are more adventurous than anyone.” He promises that the recipes are easy to follow. “It’s a friendly book — everyone can read it and make something. It is going to make a lot of people happy.” n Bon Appétit Bermuda, which features photographs by Scott Hill and retails for $45, is on sale at The Bermuda Book Store, The Phoenix Centre, Gibbons Company, International Imports and A.S Cooper. If you venture to Beau Rivage, which is on Harbour Road in Paget, you can buy a signed copy from Mr. Garcia himself. For reservations, tel. 236-6060

Photos by Scott Hill

Just glancing at the images in Jean-Claude Garzia’s new cookbook makes your mouth water: Anyone for chicken pie, loquat tart or frog’s legs?

10 guide

what’s on

A feast of festivities events & activities n Gosling’s Annual Invitational Golf Tournament Dec. 1-2 A 72-hole medal play competition, Belmont Hills Golf Club, Middle Road, Warwick. Visit to enter.

n Wine Tasting Dec. 2, 6-8:30pm Gosling’s Wine Cellar, Dundonald Street, Hamilton. Tickets $50.

n Bermuda National Trust Christmas Walkabout Dec. 3, 6:30pm Tour of St. George’s, many public buildings and private homes open to the public. Free.

n Regimental Music Display Dec. 3, 7-10pm Military music, showtunes and contemporary composers. Court Street, Hamilton, Tel: 238-1045, bermudaregimentband@

n Christmas Arts and Crafts Shopping Extravaganza Dec. 4, 10am-4pm Local, handmade items at St. Paul’s Christian Education Centre, Middle Road, Paget.

n Fight Night Dec. 4, from 8pm Local amateur boxing contest at Berkeley

Photo by Jamie Macmillan

The Town Hall in St. George’s will be glowing for the Christmas walkabout. Institute. Open bar. Tickets $85, $100 VIP, from

n 58th Annual Goodwill Bermuda Golf Tournament Dec 4-10, time TBA Hosted by LPGA legend Amy Alcott at Port Royal Golf Course, Mid Ocean Golf Course, Tucker’s Point Golf Course and Belmont Hills Golf Course. www.toateebermuda. com or

n Chewstick Neo Griot Lounge Dec. 4, 18 Open-mic sessions with Bermuda’s best talent at Spinning Wheel, Court Street. $10. Tel: 504-2439,

n Teddy Bear Tea Dec. 4-24, 2:30-5pm Children’s Christmas tea at Fairmont Hamilton Princess. Youngsters are encouraged to bring a new stuffed toy to be donated to Bermuda charities. Storytelling with Santa

Compiled by Leanne McGrath. Listings are subject to change: For the latest, call the numbers provided and visit our website To submit a listing, e-mail guide 11

what’s on

Use pink bus stops for travel into Hamilton,

on Saturdays and Sundays, etiquette class on Sundays. $19 for under 12s with a donation, $25 without. $35 for tea with etiquette class. Over 12s, $35. Tel: 298-5779.

n Pantomime — The Firebird Dec. 9-18 Christmas pantomime based on 1910 ballet by Stravinsky. City Hall Theatre, tickets $35. Show starts at 7.30pm, matinees on Dec. 11, 12, 18 at 3pm. See

n Folk Medicine: Yesterday and Today Dec. 9, 23, 30, 2-4pm Introduction to herb and plant medicine used by early settlers and modern holistic approaches. At No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street. Tel: 292-9447.

n BMAZ Nature Encounters Dec. 11, 9:30-11am All about reptiles workshop at Bermuda Museum, Aquarium and Zoo. $15 members, $30 non-members. Tel: 293-2727,

n WindReach Live Nativity Dec. 12, 5-8pm The charity’s Christmas celebration and carol singalong at 57 Spice Hill Road, Warwick.

n Nutcracker Holiday Spectacular Dec. 18, 2pm and 7pm Performed by In Motion School of Dance at Ruth Seaton James Centre, CedarBridge Lane, Devonshire. Tickets from

n Hogmanay Ball Dec. 31 Hogmanay is the Scottish name for New Year’s eve and this dinner and dance is hosted by the island’s Caledonian Society at Fairmont Hamilton Princess. For more details, e-mail

n Art sessions Hamilton Visual Arts Centre, King Street. Tue 5-8pm, art sessions; Wed 11am-3pm, Mommy and Me Day; Thurs 5-8pm, Ladies Night; Fri 7-10pm, College Night; Sat 1011:30am, Kids Art Club (ages six and up). Tel: 293-5960.

n Visitor Golf Tournament Mon & Thurs, time TBA. At par 71 Port Royal Golf Course, home of the PGA Grand Slam. Fifty per cent discount on green fees - $90pp including cart for 18 holes. Club rentals $25. tel: 234-0974,

n Skirling Ceremony Mondays, noon Kilted pipers, drummers and dancers at Fort Hamilton, Happy Valley Road, Pembroke. Free. Tel: 292-9447.

n Bermuda’s Culture and Traditions Photo by Leanne McGrath

Scots will be out in full force at the Hogmanay Ball. 12 guide

Mon & Wed, 11am-12pm Part of the Talking about Bermuda lecture series. Bermuda National Gallery, City Hall, Hamilton. Tel: 292-9447.

what’s on

and blue for heading away from the city. n Bermuda Gombey Revue Tuesdays, 4pm Traditional dancers at No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street. Free. 292-9447

n Bermuda’s History Tuesdays, 11am Lecture at Bermuda National Gallery, City Hall, Hamilton. Free. 292-9447

n Visitor Golf Tournament Wednesdays, time TBA At Ocean View Golf Course, Devonshire, a par 35, nine-hole course. $50pp including cart, $20 club rentals. 18-hole rate upon request. 295-9093,

n Chit Chat: A Dolphin Experience Wednesdays Learn about dolphins and protecting the ocean at Dolphin Quest, Dockyard. $10 adults, $8 seniors, under 13s free. www.

n Cookery demonstrations Wednesdays, 2:30-4pm Local flavours from Bermudian chef Cheryl Kerr. No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street, Hamilton. Free.

n Hands On Craft Thurs & Sun, 1-4pm Make your own creation at Bermuda Craft Market. Free. Tel. 292-9447

n Somerset Walk and Slide Show Thursdays 10am Tour of Somerset starting from Country Squire Restaurant, Mangrove Bay. 11:15am, Audio-visual tour of Bermuda highlights. Free, tel. 292-9447

n Salsamania Fridays, 9:30pm-12:30am Free Latin dance and music at Lido Complex, Elbow Beach Hotel.

n Dolphin Show Saturdays, 3pm At DolphinQuest, Dockyard. $10 adults, $8

seniors, under 13 free.

n Vendor Market Saturdays Somerset Cricket Field, Somerset Road, Sandys.

n Olde Towne Market Sundays, 2-6pm European-style street market at King’s Square and Water Street, St. George’s. 296-6185

n Walking Club of Bermuda Sundays, 7am Dec. 5, Gibbs Hill Lighthouse, Southampton. Dec. 12, A1, Valley Road, Paget. Dec. 19, Admiralty House, Pembroke. All walks free.

n Taste of Bermuda Calypso Sundays Sundays, 1:30-3:30pm Try Bermuda preserves, rum cakes and locally brewed beer and ginger beer while listening to a Calypso band at Bermuda Craft Market, Dockyard. Tel. 292-9447

n Dockyard Glassworks Daily, 9am-10pm Daily glassblowing and fresh rumcake. Dockyard, free. Tel. 292-9447

n Bermuda Clayworks Daily, 9am-5pm A full-time pottery production company and gallery in Dockyard. Tel. 234-5116

tours n Old Town Tour Wednesdays and Saturdays, 10:30am Walking tour of St. George’s, starting at King’s Square. Free. Tel. 292-9447

n Historical reenactment Saturdays, noon Recreation of a ducking. King’s Square, St. George’s. Free. Tel. 292-9447 guide 13

what’s on

Most common surnames: Bean, Burgess,

n City walking tours Mondays, 10am Departs from Bermuda National Library on Queen Street and ends at Fort Hamilton for the skirling ceremony. Free. Tel. 292-9447

n Beyond Bermuda tours Historian Tim Rogers hosts history and nature tours. Tel: 234-4082. E-mail:

n Byways Bermuda Tours Fully escorted tours with driver, guide & refreshments. Tel: 504-8687.

n Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences Tour Wednesdays, 10am Hour-long tour of labs, grounds & research vessels of marine research centre. Free. Biological Lane, Ferry Reach, St. George’s. Tel: 297-1880. E-mail

n Famous Homes and Hideaways sightseeing cruise Various days/times Cruise into an exclusive neighbourhood known as Millionaires’ Row plus learn about our flora and fauna. $45. From Hamilton Harbour and Dockyard. Contact Geri Roberts, Consort Cruises. Tel: 335-7201. E-mail

Photo by Tony McWilliam

Monarch butterflies are among the natural delights you’ll come across at the Botanical Gardens. n Sessions House Tour Mondays, 11am Tour home of Parliament and Supreme Court. Free. Corner of Parliament and Church Streets, Hamilton. Tel: 292-9447

n Botanical Gardens Tour Tue, Wed, Fri, 10:30am Meet at Berry Hill entrance near Visitors’ Centre, Paget. Free. Tel: 236-5291

n Bermuda National Gallery tour Byways Bermuda Tours Tour the island in Heidi’s comfortable minibus; a wonderful opportunity to see and experience the real Bermuda with a well-informed, enthusiastic guide and driver. Heidi offers 4-hour afternoon tours with refreshments, and an all-day tour with complimentary refreshments. $100 per person, discount for more than 4: $80 each. Reservations: 535-9169

14 guide

Thursdays, 10:30am Meet at City Hall. Free.

n Carter House Tues, Wed, Thur, Sat 17th century house detailing history of St. David’s Island. Southside Road, St. David’s. $2, call before visit, tel. 293-5960

n Discovering Royal Naval Dockyard Thursdays, 2-4pm The architecture of the Victorian Dockyard plus a visit to a barrel makers store now used by a local microbrewery. Tasting and

what’s on

Davis, DeSilva, Fox, Hill, Swan, Wilson Q&A. Meet in front of the Cooperage. Free. Tel: 292-9447

arts n ACE Gallery Exhibits by local artists. Free. Open Tues, Weds, Thurs 11am-2pm. ACE building, Woodbourne Road, Hamilton. Contact Amy Shilingford. Tel: 299-9365. E-mail:

n Bermuda Arts Centre

Free. (see pages 18 & 19). 71 Front St, Hamilton. Tel: 295-1117.

n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Floral Lane, works from the Bermudiana Collection. Entry $5. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm. Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel: 236-2950. E-mail:

n Bermuda Archives

Exhibits by local artists. Free. Open Mon-Sun 11am-4pm. Dockyard. Tel: 234-2809. E-mail: artcentre@

The Legal Instruments of Emancipation Documents relating to the abolition of slavery in Bermuda at the Bermuda Archives, Parliament Street, Hamilton. Open daily 8:30am-5pm, free.

n National Gallery

n Common Ground Café

Student Art Competition exhibit in main gallery, the History of Art in Bermuda in the Ondaatje wing. Free. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm and Sat 10am-2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-9428.

n Bermuda Maritime Museum (Now renamed) National Museum of Bermuda. Open daily 10am-4pm, last entry 3pm. Adults $10, seniors $8, discounts for children. Royal Naval Dockyard. Tel: 234-1418. 

n Bermuda Society of Arts Onions Gallery: Members’ winter show. Edinburgh Gallery: Silk and Silver, by Lynn and David Morrell. Studio A & B: Twisted, various ceramic artists. Studio C: Love Through The Lens by Rachelle Paquette. Free. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-3824. E-mail:

n Crisson & Hind Art Gallery Hand-carved sculptures from Zimbabwe.

Works by local artists. Open Mon- Fri, 7:30am-5pm, Sat 8am-3pm. Chancery Lane, Hamilton. Contact Susan Pearson. Tel: 505-4290. 

n Small Works Exhibition for the Christmas buying season at Bermuda Arts Centre, Dockyard. Open daily 11am-4pm. Tel: 234-2809

n Bermuda National Trust 
 Museum at Globe Hotel Bermuda’s role in the American Civil War. Wed, Fri, Sat, 10am-4pm, adults $5, children $2, free on Fri. St. George’s. Tel: 297-1423.

n Tucker House Museum Wed, Thur, Sat 18th century merchant’s house. Adults $5, children $2, free on Fri. Open 10am-2pm. St. George’s. Tel: 297-0545.

n Verdmont Museum Wednesdays Antiques including cedar furniture and portraits. Adults $5, children $2, open 10am-4pm. Verdmont Lane, Smith’s. Tel: 236-7369. guide 15


GOVERNMENT OF BERMUDA Ministry of Tourism and Transport Department of Marine and Ports



Fare Information Passes valid on all routes on both ferries & buses

Marine and Ports shall not be liable for loss or damage to property.

Adult 1-Day Adult 2-Day Adult 3-Day Adult 4-Day

$12.00 $20.00 $28.00 $35.00

Adult 7-Day Adult Monthly Pass Adult 3-Month Pass

$45.00 $55.00 $135.00

Student Passes (5-18yrs)

All Students (residents only) must present a transportation pass when using public transportation.

Please ensure you have a token or ticket before boarding

BLUE ROUTE/GREEN ROUTE Adult One-way $4.00 Bikes an additional $4.00 Adult-15 tickets $30.00 Student (5-16yrs) One-way $2.00 Student-15 tickets $7.50 Child Under Age 5 FREE Bermuda Senior Citizens FREE with Special Persons Pass

PINK ROUTE Adult One-way Adult-15 tickets Student (5-16yrs) One-way Student-15 tickets Child Under Age 5 Bermuda Senior Citizens with Special Persons Pass

$2.50 $20.00 $2.00 $7.50 FREE FREE

ORANGE ROUTE - This service will resume 11 April 2011 Adult One-way $4.00 (Hamilton to/from Dockyard) Adult One-way $4.00 (Dockyard to/from St. George’s) Adult One-way $8.00 (Hamilton to/from St. George’s) Bikes an additional $4.00 (Hamilton to/from Dockyard) Bikes an additional $4.00 (Dockyard to/from St. George’s) Student 5-16yrs One-way $2.00 (Ham/Dock) $4.00 (Ham/St. Geo) Child Under Age 5 FREE Bermuda Senior Citizens FREE with Special Persons Pass

Passes, Tokens & Tickets available from the Hamilton Ferry & Bus Terminals, Visitors’ Service Bureau, sub-post offices, hotels and guest houses.

Hamilton Ferry Terminal open Mon-Fri 6.30am-8pm • Sat 7.30am-6pm • Sun & Holidays 8.30am-6.30pm Service is subject to change. For further information please call Hamilton Terminal 295-4506.


Hamilton • West End • Dockyard BLUE ROUTE

Monday - Friday


Leave Dockyard

Watford Bridge

Cavello Bay

Arrive Hamilton





























































Goes to or from Green Route

Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays

Leave Hamilton

Leave Dockyard

Arrive Hamilton












12:50 2:20












Hamilton, Dockyard, Rockaway, St. George’s and St. David’s are accessible to persons with disability. It is not accessible on the Green Route at 9:15 am, 10:45 am and 1:45 pm, also from Dockyard on the Blue Route at 10:00 am and 11:00 am. CASH NOT ACCEPTED ON FERRIES


Service is subject to change. For further information please call Hamilton Terminal 295-4506. Hamilton Ferry Terminal open Mon-Fri 6.30am-8pm • Sat 7.30am-6pm • Sun & Holidays 8.30am-6.30pm Marine and Ports shall not be liable for loss or damage to property.

our ambassadors

Photos by Sirkka Huish

Dusty Hind and his sprawling gallery of Zimbabwean sculptures, each of which is accompanied by a photo of the artist.

Dusty brings striking artworks out of Africa By Sirkka Huish | On a visit to Bermuda you don’t expect to stumble across a gallery full of sculptures carved by some of Africa’s finest artists. But that is just the treat that awaits you at the Crisson & Hind Fine Art Gallery at 71 Front Street. Founder Colin ‘Dusty’ Hind has lovingly built up an impressive collection of 150 magnificent works, carved with hammer and chisel from rare stones. Subjects range from lions and hippos to dancing girls. The art-lover has been working closely with the Shona people of Zimbabwe for 11 years, having fallen in love with their work. “The majority of customers are visitors to the island,” Mr. Hind told us. “They walk up the steps and say ‘wow’. They don’t expect to see such fine 18 guide

We get about 56 inches of rain annually. African artwork in Bermuda.” Mr. Hind moved to Bermuda in 1962 from Portsmouth in England and ran an advertising agency for 30 years. He came out of retirement to pursue his love of art after friends unintentionally gave him the idea of opening an art gallery. He first visited Africa in the 1980s and on subsequent trips he selected different pieces of art for his friends. Mr. Hind opened the gallery in June, 1999 with 25 pieces: “I had a new profession and a new gallery to run. It happened quite quickly, but everything just fell into place.” Mr. Hind, who has a degree in sculpture, says he “gets to do what he loves” by running the art gallery with his son Michael, 41. They visit Zimbabwe once or twice a year, working with a group of about 30 Shona artists. They help to transport stone such as verdite, leopard and cobalt from the quarries to the artists’ workshops and hand pick pieces to ship 8,000 miles back to Bermuda. Most of the sculptures are abstract works based on traditional beliefs and spiritual concepts. Mr. Hind has been welcomed into the artists’ poverty-stricken community and is godfather to several of their children: “Their abilities are extraordinary — they do things with stone that are beyond my comprehension,” he said. “These artists are in major collections and galleries throughout the world.” Prices range from $40 to $30,000. Mr. Hind is well known in repertory theatre and in his free time he likes to play golf and go on “big adventures” with wife Barbara. The couple has two sons

our ambassadors

Dusty’s top tips Best restaurant: Blu at Belmont as they do great sushi and oysters. They have a varied menu and enthusiastic staff. Best night out: The theatre at City Hall. It’s live theatre at its best; there is some great talent on the island. Best beach: Horseshoe Bay, you’ll always find a spot as it’s very rarely crowded. I’ve lived in Bermuda for 48 years and I never tire of seeing the pink and turquoise, it still blows me away. Best attraction: Dockyard and Commissioner’s House are wonderful. So much care has been put into the restoration, it’s magnificent. Quiet spot: The ideal place to get away from it all is the Heydon Trust property in Somerset. Walking around the property is an absolute joy.

and three grandchildren. Mr. Hind, 69, said: “I love everything about Africa — it’s where we all come from.” n guide 19

The Riddell’s Bay

Golf &Country Club

Bermuda’s most historic golf course

HOLE YDS PAR HOLE YDS PAR 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

424 354 138 282 370 351 479 360 247

4 4 3 4 4 4 5 4 4

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

340 114 392 359 366 389 382 181 326

4 3 4 4 4 4 4 14 4

OUT 3,005 36


2,849 34

OUT 3,005 36 TOTAL 5,854 70

to reserve your time call 238-3225 or e-mail

warwick bermuda | tel: (441) 238-1060 |


Lots to do outdoors By James Whittaker | If you’re the outdoors type, you’ve chosen the right spot. Here’s our quick guide to what’s out there. n Golf We have more courses per square mile than any other country in the world. Some are private but many hotels can introduce their guests to these clubs and arrange tee times. See your concierge or visit www.

n Tennis Most courts are attached to hotels but another option is to play at the governmentrun tennis stadium, which has both clay and hard courts. It’s on Marsh Folly Road, a 10-minute walk from the centre of Hamilton. Tel: 292-0105 to book a court.

Golf in Bermuda is a year-round treat.

n Diving

n Cycling

You’ll need to be a hardy enthusiast to take the plunge this time of year but if you do, there are ample rewards. Our coral reefs have been a graveyard for ships for centuries. From civil war blockade-runners to a B-29 airplane, this is the wreck capital of the Atlantic. Visibility actually improves in the winter months.

Our coastal roads and the route of the old railway trail are great for bikers. You can hire bicycles at Wheels (Tel: 292-2245) and Oleander (Tel: 236-5235), both have numerous outlets.

n Fishing With the deep ocean just offshore, Bermuda offers world-class fishing. The peak season is May to November but you can fish year-round here. On a sunny day you might snag a decent-sized bonefish from the shore.

Photo by Jamie Macmillan

n Rock climbing Test your skills on the Rock Climbing Wall at the Olympic Club, Dundonald Street, Hamilton. Open daily (Tel: 292-4095).

n Bowling For a rainy day or a family evening out, try Warwick Lanes in Warwick (Tel: 236-5290) or Southside Family Bowl (Tel: 293-5906) in St David’s. guide 21

then . . .

A monument to love and faith By Theresa Airey | Understated beauty withstands the test of time. What lingers in our affections are not shiny skyscrapers or imposing monuments or imperial castles. The most enduring things in life are faith and love and sometimes, just sometimes, faith and love is given palpable shape and form. St. Peter’s Church, located in the historic Town of St George, is the oldest continually used Anglican church in the Western hemisphere. The picture above was taken between 1900 and 1910. The original church was built in 1612 from Bermuda cedar, with a palmetto-thatch roof. Through centuries of fire and wind and rain, the church has been repaired, expanded and improved upon. Interestingly, some of the exquisite original cedar structure remains. The altar dates back from the original structure and is the oldest example of Bermudian woodwork existing today. Old cedar beams line the ceiling; the baptismal font, more than 500 years old, was brought to Bermuda by the first settlers from England. 22 guide

. . . and now

The original church had no belfry so the old cedar that grew behind the church was used to bear the bell. Hurricane Fabian finally felled that mighty tree in 2003. Now it lies on its side, broken, yet still whole — just as much a part of the church as it was. On quiet afternoons you can hear the wind whistling through its fallen limbs. St. Peter’s has become a landmark for visitors and is one of the most popular places to visit on our island.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

No contest: The Unfinished Church, also in St. George’s, was originally planned as a larger successor to St. Peter’s.

In 1874, there was an attempt to replace St. Peter’s with a bigger church at a new location, but for various reasons the project was never completed. This ‘new’ structure still remains — it’s just around the corner and up the hill from from St Peter’s — and is called ‘the Unfinished Church’. Maybe, just maybe, the original was not quite ready to give up its holy ghost. Or perhaps there is something to be said for the permanence of holy ground. Maybe the simplest explanation is the most enduring: Parishioners simply had enough love and faith to nurture and protect St. Peter’s, in all its understated glory. The image on page 22 is from Theresa Airey’s book, ‘Bermuda Then and Now’, a collection of hand-coloured photographs taken in the late 1800s and early 1900s and accompanied by contemporary shots taken 100 years later, in 2007 and 2008. The book can be found in all Bermuda bookstores. guide 23

A trip to Bermuda would not be complete without a visit to the island’s newest attraction; The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Opened on March 2nd, 2008, this state of the art building is the first purpose built museum in the history of Bermuda. Housed in the beautiful Botanical Gardens in Paget, five minutes from Hamilton, the new museum is in itself a work of art. Plan your visit and learn about Bermuda’s culture and history, there is no better stop on your vacation itinerary than the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art!

Museum Hours: Monday-Saturday | 10:00am - 4:00pm Closed on all Public Holidays.

Entry is $5. Free for members and children under 12. Museum is handicapped accessible with ramps and an elevator.

Tel: 441 236-2950 • Fax: 441 236-4402 email:

Private tours can be arranged and more information can be found on our website

The Botanical Gardens 183 South Road Paget DV o4 • Bermuda

Gutter edge

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Bermuda Sun

The ultimate insider’s view of our island! Pick up a copy at your hotel or when you visit a convenience store for the latest news on Ding ding! Boxer hears wedding bells

the island or visit us online at Bermuda Sun is the people’s

BEYOND THE HEADLINES www.berm udasun.b m

Attack on nursery

Vandals start fire and wreck


paper which gets to the heart of


KNOCK-OUT: Boxer Teresa ■ PHOTO BY RAS MYKKAL ny in November. Although Perozzi is getting married to her number one supporter Andre Outerbridge she jokes that Andre isn’t always been there for much of an athlete, she in a beach ceremoher for calls him her “diamond See page two for full story. the last four-and-a-half years. The couple in the rough” as he’s met because their sons were best friends at school.


Up for some family fun?

Comedy duo 2 Fools promise will be a ‘day of mayhem’. Sunday


New home for Blazers

Boulevard work out deal with Town over St. John’s field. Dandy


Alarm over salary gap

■ ■

Erykah Badu, Kenny Rogers among diverse acts for this year’s event.

SEPTEMBER 11, 2009 $1.00

Wednesdays and Fridays.

Portable info for your pocket! Detailed information on some of Bermuda’s best tours, restaurants, activities and destinations that’s easy to take with you. Check out our display stands islandwide at hotels, the airport, cruise terminals and places of interest.

Your source for the most up-to-date information! See what other visitors said about their Bermuda travels. Share your pictures and memories. Make reservations & get travel tips. Get help from our online concierge. Sign up for our newsletter. Check the weather & events calendar. Find all the places you want to go using our interactive maps.

Inside: Race and the workplace

different job categories and ■ Jobs breakdown Startling figures that reveals that black Bermudian for those who believe that $8,000 less than white clerks earn expose huge gaps in the discrimination is the Bermudian clerks root earning power of blacks ■ Blacks earn less cause of the black/white than whites in 7 out of and whites have raised 9 job categories earning gap, it makes ■ CURE says racism for helps fuel economic inequality fresh concerns about grim reading. racial ■ ‘Why do whites discrimination in the with no qualifications White Bermudian earn almost as much as blacks who hold degrees?’ workplace. ‘clerks’, for example, make ■ Salary gap ‘more And employers who $8,000 a year more than about negligence than ill will’ attempt to downplay black Bermudian clerks. disparities by blaming SEE PAGES 4-6 The figures, compiled by them largely on differences the Department of in skill sets and experience Statistics last year, show employment survey, are probably “in denial”, which that blacks make discrimination and provides a slew of other say race activists. significantly less than suggested that earning eye-opening statistics. For the year 2007-8, the whites in seven of nine power should be broken When the figures were median annual income major job categories down into specific job for released last week, (see types blacks was $50,539, while table on page 4). to get a more reliable employers were quick for whites it was 41.7 to The biggest disparity picture. per question the way they cent higher at $71,607. were exists The in This the Bermuda ‘Senior presented, offered Sun has from Government’s 2009 Officials and Managers’ since obtained a breakexplanations other than down of salaries in See SALARY GAP, page BUSINESS 7; COMMENT 4 5 & 6;

Festival stars unveiled


a critical watchdog role. Published


New figures detail huge gap between blacks Employers who rule outearning discrimination as a cause and whites ‘in denial’



the stories that matter and serves


‘Injustice is a sixth sense, and rouses all the others’ — Amelia E. Barr


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Ferry stops F1 Hamilton Ferry Terminal F2 Lower Ferry F3 Hodson’s Ferry F4 Salt Kettle F5 Darrell’s Wharf F6 Belmont F7 Rockaway F8 Cavello Bay F9 Watford Bridge F10 Dockyard F11 St. George’s F12 St. David’s

1-17 See St. George’s Map, page 27 18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House 21 Great Head National Park 22 St. David’s Lighthouse 23-27 Bailey’s Bay — See page 29 28 Bermuda Railway Museum 29 Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo 30 Flatt’s Bridge 31 Devil’s Hole Aquarium 32 Spittal Pond 33 Verdmont 34 Palm Grove 35 Montpelier Arboretum 36 King Edward VII Hospital 37 Botanical Gardens 38 Camden 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art

40 Waterville 41 Paget Marsh 42-55 See Hamilton Map, page 34 56 Fort Hamilton 57 Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute 58 Johnny Barnes Statue 59 Government House 60 Warwick Pond 61 Christ Church 62 Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse 63 Somerset Bridge 64 Scaur Hill Fort 65 Heydon Trust 66 St. James’ Church 67 Springfield Community Centre & Gilbert Nature Reserve 68 Somerset Village 69-75 See Dockyard Map, page 37 71 National Museum of Bermuda

see the sights

Let Johnny lead the way

Photo by Theresa Airey

Good morning! The always-cheery Johnny Barnes, Bermuda’s goodwill ambassador.

He’s the ultimate ‘morning person’ and a warm greeting from folk hero Johnny Barnes is the ideal way to start your sightseeing tour. Every weekday he’s at Crow Lane roundabout from 6am to 10am, showering city commuters with waves, blown kisses and a smile that could melt the heart of even the most jaded traveller. We begin our tour in the historic former capital, St. George’s. Wherever you go, don’t forget to greet all you meet: as Johnny reminds us each morning — it’s the Bermuda way!

A great w ay to see

Bermuda and all its attractions


Public Transportation 26 Palmetto Road Devonshire DV 05 P.O. Box HM 443 Hamilton HM BX, Bermuda

Telephone: (441) 292-3851 Fax: (441) 292-9996 E-Mail: Internet: guide 25

see the sights

Car rentals are not permitted in Bermuda.

Using our maps


It’s easy to find your way around Bermuda. There are four main arteries: South Road runs along the south shore, North Shore Road hugs the north shore, Middle Road runs through the centre of the island and Harbour Road follows the inner harbour across from Hamilton. Each road brings you into the city of Hamilton. Key attractions are numbered on our maps and described in the text. Use our large pullout map (between pages 24 & 25) for an island overview; for a map of St. George’s, see page 27, the city of Hamilton on 34, and Dockyard on 37. Also, ‘W’ at the end of a listing denotes ‘wheelchair accessible’.

In 1610, Admiral Sir George Somers, a survivor of the wreck of the Sea Venture (which carried our first settlers), returned to Bermuda to obtain food for the starving Virginia colony. By 1615 the Somers Island Company was developing Bermuda and exploiting her natural resources. What is now St. George’s Parish was set aside as public or company land. The remainder was divided into eight tribes or parishes, named after the principal shareholders in the Somers Island Company. These were, from east to west: Hamilton, Smith’s, Devonshire, Pembroke, Paget, Warwick, Southampton and Sandys. Along with St. George’s, they have become the nine parishes of Bermuda.

Bus Schedule

Route Fare Leaving Hamilton’s Central Number Zone Bus Terminal (time past the hour)


1, 3, 10, 11







10 11






Belmont Hotel







Botanical Gardens

1, 2, 7






Caves (Crystal and Leamington)

1, 3





7, 8






Elbow Beach

2, 7






Gibbs Hill Lighthouse







Grotto Bay Hotel

1, 3, 10, 11






Horseshoe Bay Beach








1, 2, 7






Mangrove Bay (Somerset)

7, 8






National Museum of Bermuda

7, 8






Bermuda Perfumery

1, 3, 10, 11






John Smith’s Bay Beach





Fairmont Southampton Princess Hotel 7, 8






Town of St. George






26 guide

1, 3, 10, 11

see the sights

Mark Twain: “I’d rather go to Bermuda.”

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Penno’s Wharf

ST. GEORGE’S PARISH Bermuda’s oldest town, St. George’s, was settled in 1609-10 and became a World Heritage Site in 2000. It was our capital from 1612 until 1815, when Hamilton became the capital. 1-17 are on our detailed map above. 1 St. Peter’s Church, Duke of York St., is the oldest Anglican church in the New World still in use. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm, Services Wed 7:30am, Sun 11:15am. Suggested donation of $5 per adult. Call ahead for group visits. Tel: 297-2459 2 Bermuda National Trust Museum at the Globe Hotel, corner Duke of York St & King’s Square. Built by Governor

Samuel Day, circa 1700. The offices of the Confederate agent, Major Norman Walker, were housed here during the American Civil War (1861-1865). The museum highlights Bermuda’s American Civil War involvement along with a video presentation ‘Bermuda: Centre of the Atlantic’. Open Wed, Fri & Sat 10am-4pm. Tel: 236-6483 to confirm. Closed on Public Holidays. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. Gift Shop. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 3 Tucker House, Water Street. Built in the 1750s. Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council, moved here in 1775 and his family stayed until 1809. On view are guide 27

see the sights

Use pink bus stops for travel into Hamilton

antique heirlooms from one of Bermuda’s oldest families and also a room furnished as a tribute to Joseph Rainey, the first black man to be seated in the U.S. House of Representatives. The cellar houses are a permanent archaeological exhibit. Open Wed, Thur & Sat, 10am-2pm. Tel: 236-6483 to confirm. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 4 St. George’s Post Office, open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. Tel: 297-1610 5 World Heritage Centre, at Penno’s Wharf in the Queen’s Warehouse, circa 1860. History is brought to life through the St. George’s Foundation’s restoration of this building. Enjoy the Orientation Exhibits Gallery, ‘A Gateway to Bermuda’. Open MonSat 10am-4pm. Tel: 297-5791. W (wheelchair accessible) 6 Stocks & Pillory and the Ducking Stool re-enactment at King’s Square. See the ‘gossiping wench’ get ducked in the har-

28 guide

bour. Noon on Wednesdays & Saturdays. 7 Deliverance, a full-scale replica of the Bermuda-built barque, located across the bridge from King’s Square on Ordnance Island. Open 10am-4pm, Mon-Sat. Tel: 297-0045 8 Town Hall, facing King’s Square, the meeting place of the Corporation of St. George’s. Open 9am-4pm, Mon-Sat except holidays. Olde Towne Market on Sundays, 2-6pm. W 9 State House, above and behind the Town Hall, one of the island’s oldest stone buildings, dating from 1620. Originally the seat of government, now a masonic lodge. 10 The Bermudian Heritage Museum, junction of York & Water streets, showcases accomplishments of black Bermudians. Open Mon-Fri, 10am-3 pm. Adults $4, seniors & children $2. Tel: 297-4126 11 St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden, Featherbed Alley. This historic house, a museum since 1922, features cedar furniture, paintings, and other local relics along with a replica of an early 15th-century Gutenberg press. Closed December. January to March, Wednesdays only, 10am-4 pm. Adults $5, children $2. Tel: 297-0423 12 The Old Rectory, Broad Alley, behind St. Peter’s Church. Captain George Dew built this Bermuda cottage circa 1699. Architecturally it shows similarities to buildings of the same period in the U.S. State of Virginia. A private residence owned by the Bermuda National Trust. Exterior viewing only. Tel: 236-6483 13 Unfinished Church. Top of Duke of Kent St. This magnificent Gothic structure was meant to be a replacement for St. Peter’s Church. Started in the 1870s it was beset by financial difficulties, parish infighting and a damaging storm. It was abandoned on the eve of its completion. 14 Fort St. Catherine, off Barry Road. 19th century fort contains cannon, guns, military exhibits. Open Mon-Fri, 9:30am4pm. Adults $7, children 5 to 15, $3 (must

and blue for heading away from the city. be accompanied by an adult), seniors $5. Tel: 297-1920 W 15 Gates Fort dates from the early 17th century. Originally a small sea battery of three guns. Open during daylight hours. 16 Somers Garden, Duke of York Street. Admiral Sir George Somers was shipwrecked on a reef before settlement. When he died in Bermuda his heart was buried here and his body was taken to England. Open daily 7:30am-4:30pm 17 The Bermuda Perfumery is located in historic Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street. For more than 80 years, the Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing perfumes and all are made on the premises. Take a free tour and sample unique fragrances. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm. Tel: 293-0627 Refer to the large pullout map. 18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences, Ferry Reach. On Wednesdays at 10am, visit this world-renowned research station. Take a free tour of the laboratories, grounds and learn about ongoing projects. Tel: 297-1880 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House. An historic old stone structure built by one of Bermuda’s first settlers around 1640. Open Saturdays only, 10am-4pm. Tel: 293-5960 21 Great Head National Park. At the end of Battery Road, St. David’s, lies a 20th century abandoned fortification surrounded by open spaces, plus a Lost at Sea Memorial. 22 St. David’s Lighthouse. Stands at the top of Lighthouse Hill Road. Open Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm. Free. For the Park Ranger, Tel: 236-5902.

see the sights

Hole Hill to the junction of Wilkinson Ave & North Shore Rd. You are now in Bailey’s Bay. 24 Blue Hole Hill Park. Located just over the Causeway, the park joins Walsingham Nature Reserve and provides an excellent walking trail. 25 Crystal Caves, 8 Crystal Caves Rd, Hamilton Parish. Formed more than 30 million years ago, Crystal Cave Road was discovered in 1905 when 14-year-old Bernard Wilkinson stumbled upon a cave opening. He was later lowered down the 140-foot drop where he saw the magnificent crystal stalactites and stalagmites that surround a clear 55-foot deep lake. Tours 9:30am4:30pm year round. One cave, adults $20, children (under 13) $8, (under 5) free. Combination tickets, adults $27, children (under 13) $10, (under five) free. Last combination tour starts 3.45pm. Tel: 293-0640 26 Holy Trinity Church, Trinity Church Road. The Anglican Church of Hamilton Parish offers a scenic and tranquil respite from sightseeing. 27 Tom Moore’s Jungle, Bailey’s Bay. Woods surrounding Tom Moore’s Tavern are a must for nature lovers. The poet Tom Moore spent happy hours writing verses here. Tours are available for groups via the

HAMILTON PARISH Named after James Hamilton, second Marquis of Hamilton, an original member of Somers islands Company. Refer to the large pullout map. 23 After leaving the Causeway go up Blue

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Tranquil Somers Garden in St. George’s is an ideal stop for a stroll or a picnic. guide 29

see the sights

Bermuda’s capital city, Hamilton, is

Parks Dept., Tel: 236-5902 or 293-1785. 28 Bermuda Railway Museum and Curiosity Shop. Learn the full history of our long-defunct railway. The gift shop features antiques and artefacts. For opening hours Tel: 293-1774.

SMITH’S PARISH Named after one of the nine chief investors of the Somers Isles (Bermuda) Company, Sir Thomas Smith. Refer to the large pullout map. 29 The Bermuda Aquarium, Museum

& Zoo boasts native fish, exotic reptiles, free-flying birds, and pink flamingos in a beautiful, colourful setting. Exhibits include ‘North Rock’, a 140,000-gallon replica of a local coral reef, and ‘Islands of Australasia’, the interactive ‘Discovery Cove’ and scenic ‘Coastal Walkway’. The Natural History Museum focuses on the island’s geology, native biodiversity and habitats. Open daily 9am-5pm. (last admission 4pm). Adults $10, children (5-12 years) $5. Tel: 293-2727 W 30 Flatts Bridge. Wander across to quaint Flatts Village with its magnificent views of the Inlet and Harrington Sound. 31 Devil’s Hole Aquarium, Harrington Sound Road: Bermuda’s oldest attraction

features a natural aquarium where you can see a 75-year-old turtle and try to catch a large fish. Closed until second week in March. Adults $10, children under 12 $5, seniors $5. Tel. 293-2072 32 Spittal Pond, South Road. This 64-acre reserve is part of a necklace of wetlands along the south shore, providing a diversity of habitats and a wide variety of birds, especially during migration seasons. Owned by Bermuda National Trust and Government’s Parks Dept. Open daily dawn to dusk, admission free. Tel: 236-6483 33 Verdmont, corner of Collector’s Hill & Sayle Road. A National Trust museum built about 1710 in the Georgian style, Verdmont houses our finest collection of antique Bermuda cedar furniture, porcelain, portraits, children’s furniture and toys. A new exhibit highlights the people who lived at Verdmont. Open Wednesdays, 10am-4pm. Closed holidays. Adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). Tel: 236-6483.

DEVONSHIRE PARISH Named after William Cavendish, 1st Earl of Devonshire. Refer to the large pullout map. 34 Palm Grove, South Road. Wellmanicured private estate has an unusual bas-relief ‘water map’ of Bermuda, an aviary and many varieties of palms. Open Mon-Thur 9am-5pm (closed holidays). 35 Montpelier Arboretum, Middle Road. A tranquil retreat featuring a wide range of island trees and plants.

PAGET PARISH Named after William Paget, 4th Baron Paget de Beaudesert. Photo by Terri Mello

Spittal Pond borders a dairy farm and is a great spot to take the kids for an adventure walk.

30 guide

Refer to the large pullout map. 36 King Edward VII Memorial Hospital,

antipode to Perth, Western Australia. Point Finger Road. See page 45. Tel: 2362345 37 Botanical Gardens, Berry Hill, Point Finger & South roads. Open daily sunrise to sunset. Enjoy hundreds of well-marked flowers, shrubs and trees. Admission free. Tours on Tue, Wed & Fri at 10:30am, departing from the car park outside the entrance to the Visitors’ Centre, weather permitting. Tearoom & gift shop open Mon-Fri 10am3:30pm. To confirm, Tel: 236-5291 38 Camden, South Road, in the grounds of the Botanical Gardens. Official residence of the Premier, used for official functions only. Open Tues & Fri noon-2pm, weather permitting. 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Permanent collection includes Bermuda inspired work by Winslow Homer and Georgia O’Keeffe, plus changing exhibits. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, closed public holidays. Adults $5, children under 12 free. Tel: 236-2950 W 40 Waterville. An elegant house, built circa 1725, now the HQ of the National Trust. See the Bermuda Rose Society’s showcase garden and the Mary-Jean Mitchell Green Memorial Garden & Gazebo. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, admission free. Tel: 236-6483 41 Paget Marsh and Boardwalk, Paget Parish. Lush 25-acre nature reserve, a joint project of the Bermuda National Trust & Bermuda Audubon Society. The pond and marsh attract many birds. Open daily, daylight hours, free. Tel: 236-6483

PEMBROKE PARISH Home of our capital city of Hamilton since 1815. Refer to large pullout map and see our detailed City Map on page 34. 42 Barr’s Bay Park, on Hamilton Harbour beside the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club on Pitt’s Bay Road. Sit in the sun and watch the boats sail by. W 43 Point Pleasant Park by the waterfront, Albuoys Point, next to the Ferry Terminal.

see the sights

Relax on a bench, bring a picnic lunch. W 44 The Birdcage, a photogenic traffic kiosk at the corner of Front & Queen streets. 45 Perot Post Office, Queen Street. An architectural gem and a handy spot to buy stamps, transport passes, tickets and tokens. Credit cards accepted. Open MonFri 9am-5pm W 46 Bermuda National Public Library & Historical Society Museum, Queen Street. Set in the gardens of Par-la-Ville Park. Library open Mon-Thurs 8:30am-7pm (July & Aug until 6pm), Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 9am5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm (closed Sun in July and Aug). Tel: 295-2905. Museum open 10am-2pm Mon-Fri (May–Sept); 10:30am– 1pm Mon, Tues, Wed, Fri (Oct–April) closed holidays. Free. Tel: 295-2487 W 47 City Hall, 17 Church Street, one of Hamilton’s most beautiful public buildings. Houses City Hall Theatre, the Mayor’s Parlour and Corporation of Hamilton offices and the Bermuda National Gallery (tel: 295-9428), featuring both historic and contemporary local and international art. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Guided tours Thursdays, 10:30am. Free. Also home to the Bermuda Society of Arts Gallery, which hosts rotating exhibitions. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Free. Tel: 292-3824 W 48 Central Bus Terminal, Washington Street, close to City Hall. All routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave from here. See page 26 49 Par-la-Ville Park, Queen Street, Hamilton. A haven for relaxation in the middle of our bustling city. 50 Victoria Park, Cedar Avenue. Lovely park created in the 1880s to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. 51 Anglican Cathedral, Church Street, a neo-Gothic city landmark. Open 7:30am5pm. The cathedral tower, with panoramic views of the city, is open 9am-4pm Mon-Fri. Audio tours $3, tower entry $3. Tel: 2924033 W guide 31

rendezvous Activities Lots to see and do. while visiting Bermuda experience our wonderful culture through our daily activities starting from novemBer 1, 2010 until march 31, 2011. most of the activities listed are Free unless otherwise indicated, see rendezvous Brochure for full details and prices.


Ocean View Golf Course, 9-hole, par 35 (2,940 yards), tel. 295-9093. Enquire about special rates.

Visitor Golf Tournament ~ Southampton* 8:30 a.m. – 12 noon Port Royal Golf Course, par 71 (6,842 yards), tel 234-0974. 50% discount on greens fees = $90.00 p/p inclusive of cart for 18-holes. Club rentals $25.00.

The Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences Tour ~ St. George’s 10:00 a.m. Learn BIOS’ history, meet some of the scientists, see the labs. A tour for everyone including children over eleven years.

Guided Walking Tour ~ City of Hamilton 10:00 a.m. A tour past some of Bermuda’s historic points of interest. Departs Bermuda National Library’s verandah on Queen Street and ends at Fort Hamilton for the performance of the Skirling Ceremony.

11:00 a.m. Learn about the powerful role

Historical Re-enactment in the Town of St. George & Town Tour ~ St. George’s 10:30 a.m. A guided tour of this historic old town. Meet in King’s Square. 11:45 a.m. The Mayor greets visitors back in King’s Square. 12 noon Ducking – light-hearted, historical re-enactment of public punishment.

Skirling Ceremony ~ City of Hamilton

Botanical Gardens Tour ~ Paget 10:30 a.m. Meet at the Berry Hill entrance near the Botanical Gardens Visitor’s Centre.

Sessions House Tour ~ City of Hamilton

Parliament plays in Bermuda. Meet at the door for a 45-minute tour.

12 noon Authentic kilted pipers, drummers and

dancers perform to the bagpipe ‘skirl’ of the Bermuda Islands Pipe Band. ~ Fort Hamilton

T U E S DAY Botanical Gardens Tour ~ Paget 10:30 a.m. Meet at the Berry Hill entrance near the Botanical Gardens Visitor’s Centre. 12 noon – 2:00 p.m. Visit historic ‘Camden’, Tuesdays and Fridays (unless official functions are scheduled). Bermuda Gombey Revue ~ City of Hamilton 4:00 p.m. An exciting, historic Bermuda folk art event. Be sure to bring your camera! ~ No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street

W E DN E S DAY Visitor Golf Tournament ~ Devonshire*

Chit Chat ~ R.N. Dockyard* 10:00 a.m. A fun and fascinating sharing of dolphin behaviours, facts and fiction. ~ Dolphin Quest in the National Museum of Bermuda ~ Admission to the National Museum of Bermuda is required: $10 adults, $8 seniors and children 13 years and under free. Bermuda Cookery Demonstration ~ City of Hamilton 2:30 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Bermudian chef Cheryl Kerr shares local flavours. ~ No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street

T H U R S DAY Visitor Golf Tournament ~ Southampton* 8:30 a.m. – 12 noon Port Royal Golf Course, par 71 (6,842 yards), tel 234-0974. ~ See Monday

Somerset Walk & Slide Show ~ Somerset 10:00 a.m. Learn about our history, architecture and old-time medicinal use of plants and herbs. 11:15 a.m. An informative 20-minute audio-visual tour of Bermuda highlights follow the Tour. ~ Walk departs Country Squire Restaurant and returns for the Slide Show Dockyard Glassworks ~ R.N. Dockyard

1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Glassworks is

an exciting experience, whether it is flame working or glass-blowing. ~ Dockyard Glassworks

Hands on Craft ~ R.N. Dockyard 1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Learn the techniques of working with natural foliage or paper. ~ Bermuda Craft Market

Dockyard defences and ship repairs form the basis of today’s walk. ~ Meet at the Anchor Fountain outside Clocktower Building Dockyard Glassworks ~ R.N. Dockyard 1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Create your own masterpiece and taste the freshly baked Bermuda-made cake with a twist! ~ Dockyard Glassworks Hands on Craft ~ R.N. Dockyard 1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Learn the technique of 3-dimensional paper art, wire wrapping and the use of fibre optics in jewellery. ~ Bermuda Craft Market

Discovering the Royal Naval Dockyard 2:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Explore the architecture, architects and builders of this Victorian Dockyard. ~ Meet in front of the Cooperage on Maritime Lane

Taste of Bermuda Calypso Sundays ~ R.N. Dockyard 1:30 – 3:30 p.m. Experience Bermuda by tasting our delectable pepper jams, rum cakes, locally brewed beer and ginger beer while listening to a Calypso band. ~ Bermuda Craft Market

Folk Medicine: Yesterday and Today ~ City of Hamilton 2:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Herb and plant medicines used by early settlers and modern day folk remedies. ~ No. 6 Passenger Terminal, Front Street

SalSaMaNIa laTIN NIGHT OuT Have a fun time learning the art of Salsa through choreographed routines from an instructor. For a great time visit

F R I DAY Botanical Gardens Tour ~ Paget 10:30 a.m. See Tuesday for details

SAT U R DAY ‘Old Town’ Tour ~ St. George’s 10:30 a.m. A one-hour walking tour through the old town. ~ Meet in King’s Square 11:45 a.m. The Mayor gives a personal greeting to all. 12 noon Ducking – light-hearted, historical re-enactment of public punishment. Dolphin Show ~ R.N. Dockyard* 3:00 p.m. ~ Admission to the National Museum of Bermuda is required: $10 adults, $8 seniors and children 13 years and under free

S U N DAY Royal Naval Dockyard Tour

11:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. The

TalkING aBOuT BeRMuDa This is a FREE lecture series that features a variety of topics, each one held in a cultural venue and on weekdays during November 1, 2010 – March 29, 2011. Full schedule included in the Bermuda Rendezvous Activities brochure. Enquiries regarding Bermuda Rendezvous Activities programme, call or visit: the Department of Community and Cultural Affairs, tel 292-9447, or one of our Visitor Information Centres: next to the Ferry Terminal, Front Street, Hamilton, tel 295-1480; in the World Heritage Centre, Penno’s Wharf, Town of St. George, tel 297-5791; in Gazebo #2 Dockyard Terrace, R.N. Dockyard, tel 238-4842. * Indicates a fee or admission is required. Information correct at press time, Nov.2010 and is subject to change. NOTE: Some activities may not be available due to a public holiday. Refer to the brochure for full details.


34 guide

oad ille R La-V Par-

ud Berm





Chamber of Commerce

Ferry Terminal

Albouys Point

Royal POINT Bermuda Yacht Club PLEASANT 43


Queen Street

44 Flag Pole

treet Front S

Burnaby Street

ay Ro 42 Pitts B

Wesley Street

46 45

Bus Terminal

No 6 Passenger Terminal

Reid Street

51 52

Church Street


Victoria Street

H.M. Customs



The Cabinet Building

Sessions House


Dept. of Tourism

Front Street

Reid Street



57-58 Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute

Fort Hamilton

d py Valley Roa

Fire Department

Ha p

King Street


Church Street




Dundonald Street

Court Street


City Hall

Victoria Street

Park Road

Dundonald Street King Street

Historical Society Museum

I Visitor Information Centre

T Taxi

see the sights Just wide enough for a mast, Somerset

Bridge is the world’s smallest drawbridge. 52 General Post Office, corner of Parliament & Church streets. Open Mon-Fri 8am5pm, Sat 8am-noon W 53 Sessions House & Jubilee Clock Tower. The House of Assembly (lower house of parliament) meets Fridays at 10am. Visitors are permitted in the gallery; dress appropriately. Tel: 292-7408. The Supreme Court is located on the lower floor of the Sessions House. Visitors are permitted. 
Free tours Mon-Thurs 10am & 2.30pm. Tel: 292-1350 W 54 The Cabinet Building, Front and Parliament streets. Here the Senate (our upper house) meets Wednesdays at 10am. Visitors are permitted. Fronted by the Cenotaph on Front Street, a memorial to war veterans.
Tel: 292-5501 55 Bermuda National Library Youth Division, 74 Church Street. Open MonThurs & Sat 9am-5pm, Fri 10am-5pm. 
Tel: 295-0487 56 Fort Hamilton, approached by Victoria & King streets & Happy Valley Road. A restored fort, its moat is filled with native plants and shrubs. Spectacular views of the city and harbour. Open daily 9am-5pm. Free. W 57 The Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI), a 10-minute walk from the city centre on East Broadway. Features two floors of interactive exhibits revealing the mysteries of the ocean. Experience deep-sea exploration through the eyes of world-renowned explorers including Bermuda’s own Teddy Tucker. See artefacts and treasure recovered from shipwrecks around Bermuda. Gift shop and waterside restaurant, The Harbourfront. Open Mon–Fri 9am-5pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm. Last admission 4pm. Members free, adults $12.50, seniors $10, children (7-16) $6, children (under 6) free. Tel: 297-7314 W 58 Johnny Barnes Statue. Just down the road from the BUEI, a life-size statue of our unofficial ambassador of goodwill, Johnny

see the sights

Barnes (see page 25), by sculptor Desmond Fountain. 59 Government House, North Shore Road & Langton Hill. The imposing residence of His Excellency the Governor.

WARWICK PARISH Centrally located with many beautiful beaches along the South Shore. Refer to the large pullout map. 60 Warwick Pond. Take a walk on the interpretive woodland nature trail in this nine-acre nature reserve, with Bermuda’s second largest freshwater pond. Open daylight hours. 61 Christ Church, historic Presbyterian Church of Scotland dating back to 1719, one of the oldest in the western hemisphere.

SOUTHAMPTON PARISH Boasts many beaches including the most popular, Horseshoe Bay Beach. Refer to the large pullout map. 62 Gibbs Hill Lighthouse provides panoramic views and there’s a restaurant, too, The Dining Room (tel: 238-8679). For winter opening hours for the lighthouse tel: 238-8069. Adults $2.50, children (4 and under) free.

SANDYS PARISH (Somerset) The western-most parish, made up of five islands. Refer to the large pullout map. 63 Somerset Bridge is the smallest drawbridge in the world; just wide enough to let the mast of a sailboat pass through. 64 Scaur Hill Fort, Somerset Road. Enjoy breathtaking views of the Great Sound and Ely’s Harbour. Open daily 7:30am4pm, free. Grounds open 24 hours. Tel: 234-0908 65 Heydon Trust, 43 acres of meticulously preserved grounds, filled with guide 35

see the sights

We have no streams or rivers. Royal Naval Dockyard T Taxi

Dockyard Glassworks & Bermuda Rum Cake Company

Bermuda Clayworks

Snorkel Park Beach


Maritime Lane

Storehouse Lane

Cloc ktow er P arad e



69 Watersports Centre

Clocktower Shopping Mall


Victualling Yard



Bermuda Arts Centre

Camber Road




Bermuda Craft Market

Commissioner’s House

National Museum of Bermuda

Visitor Information Centre

Dolphin Quest



No rth

Dockyard Marina


Ferry Stop

Visitor Information Centre

Cruise Ship Terminal


Visitor Information Centre

indigenous plants. The tiny, exquisite chapel was built in the 1620s. Open daily, dawn till dusk, free. 66 St. James’ Church, the Anglican church of Somerset, has a graceful spire and imposing walkway. 67 Springfield Community Centre & Gilbert Nature Reserve, Somerset. This National Trust Property once comprised a small plantation. Springfield, the old mansion with buttery and slave quarters dates back to 1740. Five acres of walking trails. 68 Somerset Village overlooks charming Mangrove Bay. Stop for a meal or some shopping. 69 Enter the Royal Naval Dockyard through stone gates. This major attraction includes the National Museum of Bermuda, Clocktower Mall, Craft Market, the Bermuda Arts Centre and restaurants — all housed in restored naval buildings. 70 Dockyard Visitor Information Centre is near the fast ferry dock. Open daily, 9am5pm. Tel: 799-4842 71 The National Museum of Bermuda includes the Commissioner’s House, which exhibits our rich nautical history and


extensive artefact collections. Open daily, 10am-4pm, last admission 3pm. Adults $10, senior citizens $8 and children under 13 free, if accompanied by an adult. Tel: 234-1418 72 Dolphin Quest Bermuda, Dockyard. Enjoy an extraordinary encounter with dolphins. Open 9:30am-4:30pm daily. Reservations required. 
Tel: 234-4464 or toll free 800-248-3316 73 The Craft Market in the Old Cooperage features Bermuda cedar work, candle and jewellery making, pottery, banana dolls and many other crafts, with demonstrations by local artisans. Open daily 10am-5pm and until 8pm when cruise ships are in port. Tel: 234-3208 W 74 The Bermuda Arts Centre features studios housing various artists which change every few weeks. A shop offers an extensive range of locally made gifts, paintings, sculptures and a wide print selection. Open daily 10am-5pm (closed Good Friday & Christmas Day). Tel: 234-2809 W 75 Clocktower Shopping Mall boasts a delightful collection of boutiques and branch stores in a charming, covered mall. W guide 37

sightseeing Our best historic sites By Lance Furbert | For an island of just 21 square miles, we pack in a lot of history. Bermuda’s superb historic sites and museums help tell our unique story but also help unravel the extraordinary saga of the development of English settlements in the New World.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Quaint Carter House in St. David’s is more than 300 years old.

Here are some of our best historic sites. National Museum of Bermuda The largest collection of artifacts and weapons in Bermuda. Slave artifacts, gold bars, jewellery, silver coins, pottery, boats of all kinds and large muzzle loading guns can be seen here. Located at Dockyard. Open daily 10am–4pm (last admission 3pm). Tel: 234-1418

Carter House Built more than three centuries ago by the descendants of Christopher Carter, one of two crew members of the shipwrecked Sea Venture who remained in Bermuda when the survivors sailed for Virginia in 1610. Home to the St David’s Island Historical Society Museum and its exhibitions of whaling, farming and many other aspects of local history and culture. Southside, St. David’s. For opening times, Tel: 293-5960

Bermudian Heritage Museum Located in the Samaritan Lodge Building in St. George’s and part of the African Diaspora Heritage Trail. Exhibits mark the accomplishments of black people in Bermuda, the story of the slave ship Enterprise

38 guide

and a history of the Friendly Societies. Open Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm. Tel: 297-4126

National Trust Museum The Globe Hotel on the northwest corner of King’s Square in St. George’s was bult in 1700 by Governor Samuel Day as our second Government House. It now houses the Bermuda National Trust Museum, which features the exhibit ‘Rogues & Runners — Bermuda and the American Civil War’. Open Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am-4pm. Tel: 236-6483

Verdmont A delightful Georgian style historic home at the top of Collector’s Hill, Smith’s Parish. A superb collection of antique Bermuda cedar and mahogany furniture plus an exhibit detailing the history of the house and surrounding farmland. Open Wed, 10am-4pm Tel: 236-6483

Bermuda Historical Society Museum Located in Par-la-Ville Park, Hamilton, it was the home of Bermuda’s famous postmaster William Bennet Perot. Exhibits include models of ships associated with Bermuda’s

what’s on sightseeing

Slavery was abolished here in 1834. early history such as the Sea Venture, Deliverance and Patience; Sir George Somers’ sea chest and lodestone; plus a collection of early Bermudian coins and silver. Open Mon, Tues, Wed & Fri, 10:30am-1pm. Tel: 295-2487

azine, weapons of all types (from pistols to large muzzle loading guns), the British Crown Jewels in replica and an audiovisual presentation on Bermuda’s forts. Open Mon-Fri, 9:30am-4pm. Tel: 297-1920

Tucker House

Built by Governor Nathaniel Butler in 1620. It’s the oldest standing non-military English building in the New World. Surrounded by magnificent historic architecture and quaint streets and alleys — the most historic English neighbourhood in the New World. Just off King’s Square, St. George’s.

The State House

Tucker House, on Water Street, St. George’s, was the home of Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council. Artifacts and portraits of the famous Tucker family include St. George Tucker of Virginia and Thomas Tudor Tucker, the longest serving treasurer of the U.S.. Joseph Hayne Rainey, the first African American elected member of the U.S. House of Representatives, once ran a barber shop in the building. Open Wed, Thu & Sat 10am2pm. Tel: 236-6483

St. Peter’s Church

The oldest Anglican Church site in continuous use in the western hemisphere. The first church on the site was built by Governor Richard Moore in 1612 and there are many Fort St. Catherine ancient artifacts inside. Some headstones Overlooks Gate’s Bay, St. George’s, the in the churchyard date back more than 300 landing place of the Sea Venture castyears. Duke Of York Street, St. George’s. 1-2 2010 winter ad_Layout 2Open 11/8/10 3:1610am-4pm. PM PageServices 1 aways in 1609. Features dioramas that Mon-Sat, Wed highlight our early history, a restored mag7:30am, Sun 11:15am. Tel: 297-2459 n

National Treasure Visit the spectacular 16 acres of the NATIONAL MUSEUM OF BERMUDA, home to 500 years of Island culture and history. Explore exciting exhibits in our historic military buildings— and watch for many more as we grow!

Royal Naval Dockyard, Sandys Tel. 441-234-1418 • Open every day 10am–4pm (last admission 3pm)


Incorporating BERMUDA MARITIME MUSEUM guide 39

real estate The St. George’s Club

Photo by kageaki smith

The charming St. George’s Club, which offers timeshare opportunities.

Own a bit of ‘The Rock’ Many visitors, seduced by our subtropical climate, historic charm and pink sand beaches, return to Bermuda year after year. Americans in particular often seek to make the relationship a little more permanent, through timeshares or fractional ownership. As a non-Bermudian you are not permitted to buy property outright unless you have more than $5million to spend, so it’s a more affordable way to claim a small piece of ‘The Rock’. And it enables you to share your love of the island with friends and family for generations to come. Prices vary of course but you might get into the market at the $150,000 to $400,000 range. Check with a local realtor through our website,, for more information. Names that will come up include The Reefs Club, Tucker’s Point Club, Newstead Belmont Hill Golf Resort and Spa — and The St. George’s Club.

Are you dreaming of a Bermuda family holiday? Well, The St. George’s Club can make that dream an affordable reality. Overlooking the historic Town of St. George and the quaint harbor, its clusters of one-bedroom and two bedroom cottages offer all the comforts of home. Fully equipped kitchens make home cooking possible – and an onsite grocery means shopping is close to hand. Don’t feel like cooking? Griffin’s Bistro in the main clubhouse is known for its excellent international cuisine, or dine at Blackbeard’s Hideout the beachside restaurant and bar. Three swimming pools, one heated and one with a pool bar are situated in beautifully manicured and spacious grounds. If you prefer the beach, the complimentary shuttle can take you to The Club’s secluded Achilles Bay. Facilities for the more energetic include three tennis courts, one lit for night play, and a fitness center. The surrounding Golf Course is currently closed but is to be redesigned by Nick Faldo . Golf enthusiasts can also enjoy privileges at the challenging Riddell’s Bay Golf course in Southampton. The bus stop is within close walking distance and the fast ferry to Dockyard and Hamilton is also nearby. You can also explore at your own pace by renting a scooter from the onsite cycle livery. The Club is an RCI Gold Crown Resort which allows members great exchange options at any of RCI’s nearly 4,000 worldwide resort hotels. New members will also be enrolled in The Club’s private travel and cruise program. To learn more, call 297-1222 or visit n guide 41


Photo by Kageaki Smith

Safety first: At Wheels Cycles, in the city of Hamilton, you’ll be shown how to ride your rental bike before you leave their yard.

How to stay safe on a rental bike By SIMON JONES | One of the best ways to see Bermuda is on two

wheels. Rental bikes give you easy access to all the best sights and with a warm breeze on your face and the freedom of the open road ahead, you’ll feel 10 years younger! Riding a moped or scooter is easy once you’ve got the hang of it. Follow our tips to stay safe: • Hire from a reputable firm and check the bike is in good condition; • Helmets are mandatory — but useless unless they fit well and are secured properly; • We drive on the left — just like the Brits; • Drive defensively and wear bright clothes to aid your visibility to others; • Wear sneakers or closed-toe shoes — topple off your bike in flip-flops and you could easily lose a digit; • The speed limit is 35kph; stick to it and don’t feel obliged to keep up with other road users; • Leave plenty of space between yourself and other vehicles and don’t get 42 guide

We have no mountains, just gentle hills. too close to the curb; • Never turn around to look behind you while riding; • Never stop on a bend or a hill’s brow; • Drive slower when it’s wet; • When riding in a group, put the slowest rider at the front; • Traffic at roundabouts goes clockwise, so as you approach one, slow down and give way to vehicles coming from the right; • NEVER drink and ride; • On weekdays, avoid rush hour city traffic (7.30-9.30am and 4-6pm). If things go wrong, you might find yourself getting patched up by medics. Most typical, says Dr. Roslyn BascombeAdams, Deputy Chief of Emergency at King Edward VII Memorial Hospital, are “elbow and knee abrasions” resulting from spills. She encourages “extreme caution” on the roads: “Some accidents are

what’s on practicalities

caused because the rider is not used to driving on the left,” she says. “Many say they have been intimidated by cars or trucks and have simply got too close to the curb and come off their bike.” Joseph Arnold, operations manager at Wheels, one of the island’s premier bike rental firms, said: “Customers always get an instructor session with us in the yard. The instructor shows the rider how to operate the bike and makes sure they are comfortable riding it. The helmet is one of the most important pieces of equipment – it has to be a snug fit and strapped on properly at all times.” So, the message is clear: be confident you’re ready to hit the road, don’t take risks... but do take your time. And don’t forget to have fun. Wheels Cycles Moped & Scooter Rentals is at 117 Front Street, Hamilton,

tel: 292-2245 n

Wheels Cycles (Astwood) Ltd. 117 Front St., Hamilton, Bermuda Tel: 441-292-2245 Email:

Scooter Rentals by the Day, Week or Month Discover the beauty of Bermuda at your own speed with our easy to ride, Peugeot double seater scooters. Single seaters also available. * Open 7 Days a week * No deposit required * All major credit cards welcomed * No license required * Third party insurance included * Complete instructions & safety tips

Welcome All Visitors guide 43

practicalities JETBLUE Tel: 1-800-JETBLUE (538-2583). U.S. Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-622-1015. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3073. USA 3000 Tel: 1-877-872-3000. WestJet Tel: 1-888-WESTJET (937-8538). Photo by Kageaki Smith

Our balmy climate allows you to step onto your plane home from the tarmac.

What you need to know Your concierge might know an awful lot, but you can’t take him to the beach. Here’s a handy list of things you ought to know. Information provided here is subject to change. For the latest, visit our website:

n Airlines Air Canada Reservations: Tel: 1-888-247-2262. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1777. American Airlines Tel: 1-800-433-7300. British Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-247-9297. Airport customer service: Tel: 293-1944. Continental Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-231-0856. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3092. Delta Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-221-1212. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1024.

44 guide

n Airport L.F. Wade International Airport (tel: 2932470) is located in St. George’s at the east end of the island. Allow 30 minutes from the city of Hamilton by taxi. Check-in two hours before departure.

n Banks Normally open from 9am to 4pm, Mon-Fri. There are many ATMs across the island.

n Buses All bus routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave the Bus Terminal on Washington Street. (Refer to number 48 on the Hamilton map on page 34). See page 26 for schedule. Cash fares require exact change and dollar bills are not accepted. Adult cash fare is $3 up to 3 zones, $4.50 for longer journeys. Tokens are $2.50 for 3 zone trips and $4 for longer trips. Transportation passes are available: one-day pass $12, two days $20, three days $28, four days $35, seven days $45 or one month, $55. For children (aged 5-16) cash fare is $2 and transportation passes range from $6 per day up to $22.50 for seven days. Children under five ride free. Tokens, tickets and passes can be used on buses or ferries and can be bought at ferry terminals, the central bus terminal, hotels, post offices and Visitor Information Centres. Tel: 292-3851 •

n Business Hours Stores normally open from 9am to 5pm

Shark oil barometers forecast weather. Monday to Saturday. Many grocery stores open 1-5pm on Sunday, most other stores are closed on Sundays.

n Cars No car rentals are available in Bermuda but you can rent scooters and pedal bikes.

n Consulate The U.S. Consulate is located on Crown Hill, 16 Middle Road, Devonshire, tel: 295-1342. Open Mon to Fri 8am - 4:30pm. Consular services are provided on an appointment basis only, except for adult passport renewals and additional visa pages, which may be dropped off. For details, visit the Consulate’s website: For after-hours life or death emergencies for American citizens only, contact the duty officer at (441) 335-3828. Honorary Consuls for other countries are also represented. See the telephone directory for listings.

n Communications The sophistication of Bermuda’s telecommunications rivals U.S. and European counterparts. Our well-developed infrastructure provides modern telephone, fax, internet, cellular and cellular-roaming services.


at lunchtime. Some upscale restaurants require men to wear a jacket in the evening. Check the dress requirements when making reservations.

n Emergency Call 911 and specify whether you need police, the fire service or an ambulance.

n Etiquette It is customary to greet islanders with a ‘good morning’, ‘good afternoon’ or ‘good evening’ — Bermuda prides itself on its civility.

n Ferries The best way to get around; ferries are usually quicker than the buses and the views are better. All ferries depart from the ferry terminal on Front Street, Hamilton. Regular ferries cross Hamilton Harbour and faster catamaran ferries visit Somerset, Dockyard and St. George’s. You can buy tickets at various locations including post offices and hotels. Scooters are allowed on some routes. See page 16 & 17 for ferry schedule.

n Health

U.S. & Canada — dial 1 plus area code plus no. U.K. — dial 011 plus 44 plus area code plus no. Caribbean — dial 1 plus area code plus seven digits.

No inoculations are required for Bermuda. There are no poisonous insects or mammals (see pages 64 & 65) but visitors should be wary of the Portuguese man-of-war jellyfish that carries a painful sting. Guard against sunstroke and sunburn with hats, sunblock and plenty of water. Our climate is quite kind to hay fever sufferers as pollens are blown out to sea.

n Currency & Credit Cards

n Hospital

The Bermuda dollar is equal in value to the U.S. dollar; both are legal tender here. Traveller’s cheques and credit cards are accepted at most shops, restaurants and hotels.

King Edward VII Memorial Hospital (tel. 236-2345) is a large, first-rate facility owned and operated by the Bermuda Government and located on Point Finger Road in Paget Parish. An associate of the American Hospital Association. Airlifts can be arranged to the U.S. or Canada.

n Country Codes

n Dress Code The dress code in Bermuda is conservative. Bathing suits and bare chests are not acceptable, except at beaches and pools. Casual wear is acceptable in restaurants

n Internet Most hotels and many guest houses provide guide 45


Winter water temp. averages 68°F.

internet access. Also, there are a handful of locations where you can go online in the city of Hamilton including the Bermuda Library on Queen Street, where access is free. Public internet access is also available in St. George’s and Dockyard.

first mile and $2.25 for each additional mile for 1-4 passengers. Rates increase after midnight, Sundays and public holidays with a 25% surcharge for 1-4 passengers and a 50% surcharge for 5-6 passengers. Taxis may also be hired by the hour or day.

n Mail

n TV & Radio

The General Post Office is located at 56 Church Street Hamilton (tel: 297-7893) and there are 12 sub-offices islandwide. Airmail leaves and arrives daily. Postal rates for airmail postcards to North America cost 70¢; Europe 80¢; Africa, Asia, Australia and New Zealand 90¢.

n Public Holidays 2011 New Year’s Day | Saturday, January 1 Good Friday | Friday, April 22 Bermuda Day | Tuesday, May 24 National Heroes’ Day | Monday, June 20 Emancipation Day | Thursday, July 28 Somers Day | Friday, July 29 Labour Day | Monday, September 5 Remembrance Day | Friday, November 11 Christmas Day | Sunday, December 25 Boxing Day | Monday, December 26

n Religion Many faiths are represented here and churches are ubiquitous. Anglican, Catholic, African Methodist Episcopal and Seventh Day Adventist are among the major faiths. See the church listings in Friday’s Bermuda Sun newspaper.

n Scooters You can rent scooters by the day or week, if you are 16 or older. Helmets, provided by the rental companies, are mandatory (see pages 42 & 43). Some companies offer free delivery to your hotel.

n Smoking Smoking is banned from all enclosed public spaces including restaurants, bars, shops, theatres or any enclosed workspaces.

n Taxis Rates are controlled by law at $6.40 for the

46 guide

Three main local channels screen a nightly news bulletin — VSB (channel 11), ZBM (9) and ZFB (7). A government station, CITV, is on channel 2 and there’s a small handful of local radio stations. The quality of local programming varies considerably.

n Time Differences Bermuda, noon: New York — 11am Los Angeles — 8am London — 4pm Toronto — 11am Daylight Savings Time comes into effect from the second Sunday in March through to the first Sunday in November.

n Tipping In most cases, a service charge or gratuity has been added to the bill. Where the gratuity has not been added, 15% is about right.

n Water Tap water is safe to drink, unless you are instructed otherwise. Bermuda has no rivers, streams or reservoirs; all our water comes from rain. Bermuda roofs are painted with a limestone wash that purifies the water as it trickles down into underground tanks. Electric pumps send the water up to the tap.

n Weather Bermuda’s sub-tropical climate is generally mild and humid, but summer and winter temperatures vary considerably. The average annual temperature is 76ºF. Monthly averages: January 65ºF, water 66ºF; April 67ºF, water 68ºF; July 80ºF, water 81ºF; October 75ºF, water 76ºF. In an average year we see rain on 171 days and sunshine on 200 days.

go shopping

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Chatham House on Front Street is the place to go for quality, Cuban cigars.

Great stores, no sales tax You’ve already proved you have good taste by choosing to visit Bermuda so it’s fitting that our stores exude quality. That’s not to say there are no bargains to be had — you’ll find hefty price differentials with the U.S. on items such as jewellery, watches, perfume, silverware, porcelain and crystal. And you’ll enjoy additional relief at the cash register — there’s no sales tax. Many stores are in the City of Hamilton, but the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard, on the extreme western tip of the island, boasts a range of quality gift stores and boutique shops. And the historic town of St. George’s — at the east end of Bermuda — also has a lively shopping scene. Goods made here or produced exclusively for local stores include pottery, jewellery, paintings and prints, pottery, rum, honey, condiments, cedar ware, Bermuda shorts, scarves, fragrances and pillows. Browse the listings on the following pages for details. guide 47

go shopping

Silk Alley was named after the swish

Bermuda Breeze Bermuda Breeze, sister to Bermuda Blue, is the latest modern fragrance in the Bermuda collection – a fruity floral — exclusively available in Bermuda. Bermuda Breeze’s delightful scent takes in the sea air and the aromas of natural fruits and flowers from around the island. Notes hint of wild berries, mandarin, lemon zest and jasmine. The dry down is lovely sandalwood and white musk, giving depth and warmth. Inspired by the brilliant clear turquoise waves gracing pink sandy beaches, sea misting the immense blue sky – Bermuda Breeze is unique. Take the time to experience Bermuda Breeze and Bermuda Blue — both embrace much that is uniquely Bermuda. Available through select stores across the Island and on-line including: Gibbons Company, Reid St, Hamilton Peniston Brown, St. George’s Perfume Shop, Dockyard Carole Holding, Front St, Hamilton Brown & Co., Front St, Hamilton A.S. Cooper, Front St, Hamilton, branch

and hotel stores. Distributed by P.D.L. Limited Tel: (441) 292-1710.

Bermuda Perfumery The Bermuda Perfumery is located at historical Stewart Hall in the heart of the St. George’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since 1928, the Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing fine ladies’ and gentlemen’s fragrances under the brand Lili Bermuda. All the perfumes are made on the premises at Stewart Hall. The Perfumery welcomes visitors for a free tour of its operations and to sample its unique fragrances. This year, the Perfumery launched South Water, a delicious unisex fragrance, composed of coconut milk, juicy guava and sea salt. For women, the Perfumery introduced Petals, a romantic blend of jasmine sambac, honeysuckle and orange flower. To celebrate Bermuda’s 400th anniversary, the Perfumery introduced Somers, for men, a modern blend of Bermuda cedar, olivewood bark and liqourice. The Perfumery’s perfume

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The Perfumery in St. George’s offers free tours — and great gift ideas.

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go shopping

of ladies’ petticoats as they walked.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The General Post Office is on the corner Church and Parliament Streets, in the centre of Hamilton

collection also includes exclusive creations inspired by our beautiful island. Modern women will love Coral, Pink, and Lily, and men will not want to leave Bermuda without a bottle of the famous fragrances 32° North and 64° West. The Perfumery is passionate about the art of perfume making and continues to innovate by using both traditional and modern techniques to produce exceptional perfumes. Visitors are welcome to visit for a free tour and to sample the Perfumery’s exclusive and rare perfumes. The Bermuda Perfumery. Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm. Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street St. George’s GE 05. Tel: 293-0627. 1-800527-8213 (toll free in US/Canada). Fax: 293-8810.

Bermuda Post Office Every year the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau compiles a collection of commemoratives and arranges them into an attractive presentation package. This collection

continues the Bermuda Post Office’s efforts to portray all facets of Bermuda’s heritage, culture and history. The Bermuda Philatelic Bureau also services orders for current issues of Bermuda’s commemorative and definitive stamps and, for the convenience of collectors, provides a standing order account service with a minimum deposit of 30 dollars. In addition, they maintain a mailing list to provide details of new stamp releases to customers. 56 Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 297-7807

Chatham House Bermuda’s leading specialty tobacco shop, established in 1895. Offering a marvellous selection of fine tobaccos and gifts for visitors. Satisfaction is guaranteed. Their extensive range includes English Briar pipes, and a selection of Havanas such as Punch, Partagas, Romeo y Julieta, Upmann, Montecristo, Cohiba and Bolivar — all at good savings over U.S. prices. Corner of Front and Burnaby streets, Hamilton. Tel: 292-8422 guide 49

feature The revealing saga of those cute Bermuda shorts By SIMON JONES | It’s not

everywhere in the world a man can walk down the street in pink shorts and matching knee-high socks and hold his head high. But in Bermuda, no one bats an eye-lid when such colourful dressers wend their way around town. Bermuda shorts are a national uniform. They come in all colours, from salmon pink to sunshine yellow. And they are accompanied by a pair of long socks, called Bermuda hose, pulled up to the knee. Add a navy blazer, a tie and smart shoes and you have standard business attire here in the semi-tropics. Don’t be fooled by the bright colours – Bermuda shorts are serious stuff. We once passed a law that states they should not be Marketing to royalty: Local retailer David Hamshere, who runs the English Sports Shop, offers a pair of Bermuda shorts to Prince Philip during a royal visit to the island in 2009.

shorter than six inches above the knee. Bermuda shorts trace their origins to the British Army; soldiers

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Wear tasselled loafers with your shorts. sported cut-off trousers to combat the tropical and desert climates they were sent to. They were created at the turn of the 20th century by office workers in London, whose job it was to make sure the forces were suitably attired in farflung corners of the Empire. The look caught on and by the 1950s, most Bermudian men were happy to don a pair of comfortable shorts for work. Although they are Bermuda shorts by name, they are not made here; typically they’re imported from the United States. They make terrific gifts and/or mementos and who knows — you might start a trend in your hometown. The largest selection of Bermuda shorts can be found at the English Sports Shop, which has several

what’s on feature

When British soldiers wore shorts on the battlefields of North Africa during WWII, little did they know the look would become fashionable in far off Bermuda.

branches islandwide. Its flagship store is at 49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672. n

Bermuda’s leading retailer of exclusive, Bermuda-designed resort wear for men, women and children.

49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672 Mangrove Bay, Somerset, tel: 234-0770 Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-0142 guide 51

Our city covers only 180 acres.

what’s on jewellery

Photo by jamie macmillan

One of Front Street’s landmark stores, Crisson Jewellers is synonymous with quality and elegance.

Crisson Jewellers Crisson Jewellers embodies Bermuda’s finest and most cherished traditions. A family business since 1922, the Crisson name is synonymous with quality and value. The fabulous array of jewellery and watches reflect the style, sophistication and taste of our discerning customers. When you explore our exciting collections, we are sure you will agree that a visit to Crisson is the crowning moment of your Bermuda shopping experience. Along with the wonderfully eclectic collection of hand-selected pieces from all parts of the world, Crisson are Bermuda’s exclusive source for famous designers including David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, Picchiotti, John Hardy, Kabana, Pandora, Bixby and Thomas Sabo. As for diamonds of distinction, Crisson has Bermuda’s largest collection of spectacular cuts from Cento, A. Jaffe and Canadia. When it comes to timepieces, Crisson is definitely the place! Crisson are the

officially authorised Rolex retailers in Bermuda. You will also find Tag Heuer, Ebel, Movado, Tudor, Philip Stein, Christian Dior, Rado, Elysee, TX and Raymond Weil. The collection is rounded out with ranges from Seiko, Swiss Army, Citizen, Casio, Esq and Guess! Crisson has two stores on Front Street in Hamilton, with another on Queen Street. There are stores in St. George’s and in the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard. If you are staying in one of Bermuda’s major hotels, you’ll find a Crisson store there as well. Each of these boutique-style stores features pieces selected from our main collections in Hamilton. The shopping experience is relaxed and intimate, and the quality, value and prices are the same whichever store you choose to visit. Crisson Jewellers, 16 Queen Street, 55 & 71 Front Street, Hamilton; Water Street, St. George’s; Clocktower Mall, Dockyard, and all major hotels. Tel: 295-2351 • guide 53

food & drink

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Classy and inviting, Barracuda Grill is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner.

Let’s eat! Our island is small but it offers an

Barracuda Grill

abundance of dining options. From

Barracuda Grill, one of Bermuda’s most celebrated restaurants, is the place to go for outstanding seafood and chops prepared in a contemporary style, proudly winning seven Best of Bermuda Awards! Warm mahogany woods and plush banquettes in a sumptuous but comfortable dining room make it suitable for power business meals or romantic tête-à-têtes. Barracuda’s cozy but tres chic bar is the place to enjoy martinis made to share, or one of over 16 wines served by the glass. A warm, lavish and inviting interior hints at a time of bygone glamour but is contemporized to be thoroughly of the moment. Irresistible seafood and chops prepared with expertise take centre stage on immaculate white-lit linen covered tables. 5 Burnaby Hill (above the Hog Penny), Hamilton. Tel: 292-1609 Fax 292-8354 Lunch $$, Dinner $$$

simple, unfussy cafes and bars to top-notch fine dining for that special Restaurant price ranges per person $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under $20 $20-$40 $40-$50 Over $50

occasion, we’ve got you covered. Casual dress is acceptable at most restaurants, though some

upscale eateries require a jacket and tie. And it’s best to make reservations. The dollar signs (see our key, at left) offer a rough guide to prices. Also visit www.bermuda. com for updated information. guide 55

Try loquat jam, made from local fruit. Chopsticks Chopsticks is known for its delicious Chinese and Thai food. Specialities include regional dishes from Canton, Hunan, Szechwan and Thailand with authentic chefs. From mild to very spicy, there’s something for everyone, including vegetarians. Convenient take out is available. Lunch Monday to Friday noon – 2:30pm, dinner nightly 5pm – 11pm. 88 Reid Street. Tel: 292-0791 Lunch $, Dinner $$

Hog Penny Restaurant and Pub Hamilton’s oldest licensed establishment, in business since 1957, the Hog Penny inspired the Cheers pub in Boston. Authentic is not a word used lightly here, and a 50-plus year history gives the place a delightful patina of age that you just can’t replicate. In December 1987, Gourmet Magazine exclaimed “it was love at first sight for us, as well as the throngs who flock here”, and as Gourmet wrote, this great institution is hard to beat for a truly

food & drink

authentic experience. Featuring great cuts of beef, genuine Indian curries, to-die-for hearty, pub style comfort food that has won countless “Best of Bermuda” awards, and was featured on The Food Network’s “$40 A Day”, the Hog Penny continues to be a favourite spot in Bermuda for generations of locals and visitors alike. 5 Burnaby Hill (just up from Front Street) Hamilton. Tel: 292-2534 Fax 292-8354 Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Island Cuisine One of Bermuda’s most popular diners, where locals and tourists alike enjoy a great breakfast, lunch or dinner. Reasonable prices. Famous for its delicious, homemade Bermudian dishes ­— a treat for the entire family. Clean and friendly with great service. Serving beer and wine. Try some peas n’ rice with your fish dinner. Also serving fishcakes, Bermuda fish chowder, oxtail stew, rockfish with lemon and butter sauce,

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Delicious Chinese and Thai dishes are served in elegant surroundings at Chopsticks. guide 57

food & drink

A Dark ’n’ Stormy is Black Seal Rum

braised pork chops, curry chicken roti, salads, sandwiches and soups. Breakfast served all day. Open daily, Mon-Sat, 6am9:45pm, Sun: 7am-2:45pm 235 Middle Road, Southampton Tel: 238-(EATS) 3287 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner $-$$

Latin & Rumba°r and Java Jive Heating things up in the very heart of Hamilton with Nuevo Latino inspired cuisine, Latin is a sizzling and chic new restaurant that, according to the many guests that have visited us to date, “is different from everywhere else in Bermuda”. The main upscale dining restaurant features many different regional dishes from Central and South America, Spanish Caribbean, Miami and even gives a nod to the Iberian peninsula; all are given a twist and artfully presented in Latin style. Downstairs in

Rumba°r, a sleek onyx topped, glowing bar beckons you to sit and enjoy an authentic Caipirinha, or a tall and delightful Mojito. Meander outside to Bermuda’s only open air, below street courtyard lounge, with Philippe Starck outdoor couches and low fabric banquettes. Need a fantastic cappuccino or panini sandwich on the go? Java Jive is open Monday to Friday 7am-4pm for fantastic pastries, breakfasts or lunch to take away. As the degree sign in Rumba°r suggests, Latin is HOT! 29 Victoria Street, Hamilton. Tel: 296-5050. Fax: 296-5333. Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Mrs. T’s Victorian Tea Room Located at Willowbank Hotel, set in a 17th century home, Mrs. T’s Victorian Tea Room is an example of classic Bermudian

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Eat, drink and dance: The Latin complex on Victoria Street features a lovely restaurant upstairs, outdoor patios and a lively cocktail bar downstairs.

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food & drink

mixed with ginger beer – delicious!


A lively crowd and good music makes The Pickled Onion a Front Street favourite.

architecture with its cedar framework and timeless structures. It remains a delight to behold and worthy of a visit, with classic, sumptuous dishes. Lunch specialities include dishes such as Black Oak smoked ham and aged cheddar croissants to traditional Bermudian Hoppin’ John. “Take tea” with a delectable assortment of finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and pastries hand-made right on the property. Willowbank Hotel, 126 Somerset Road, Sandy’s. Tel: 234-1616. Lunch $

Pickled Onion Restaurant and Bar A contemporary styled upscale but casual restaurant, with Bermuda’s best bar and “See and Be Seen” vibe. Chefs here won the prestigious “Escoffier Cup” at the 2004 Bermuda Culinary Arts Festival, and have drawn accolades from Food and Wine magazine, the Washington Post and most recently Giada’s Weekend Getaways showing primetime on the Food Network. The food is North American focused, with global influences, and the goal is to be

the best value restaurant experience in Bermuda. A classy but fun Martini style bar is popular with local professionals or those out on the town. Harbour views and live entertainment seven nights a week in season. 53 Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-2263 Fax: 295-6291 Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Rosa’s Cantina Saddle up and get on down to Bermuda’s only Tex Mex eatery. Famous Margaritas are offered in different flavours (Best of Bermuda Award) as well as Mexican beer and a full bar menu. In warm weather, try a seat on the balcony overlooking Front Street. Try Unbelievable Nachos, Ridiculous Burritos, Quesadillas and Fajitas. Great Steaks at great prices, done on the Mesquite Grill and creative dinner specials keep Rosa’s on top. Families with small children are welcome. Open daily from 11:30am onwards. 121 Front Street. Tel: 295-1912 Lunch $, Dinner $$ guide 59

food & drink Two classic Bermuda dishes By MEREDITH EBBIN | A Bermuda codfish breakfast, usually enjoyed on Sundays, ranks high on the island’s list of national dishes. Codfish cakes are equally popular and are eaten any day of the week. Dried salt cod, essential in both dishes, has been part of our culinary tradition for nearly four centuries. It was once a cheap food source for slaves. These days, the Sunday staple that is served in homes, members’ clubs, hole-in-the-wall eateries and hotels, is a veritable feast. The main ingredients are dried salt cod and potatoes. Most cooks use boneless cod, but purists say dumpfish,

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photo by Kageaki Smith

Delicious: a typical codfish breakfast.

which is dried cod with the bones and skin, has a better flavour. Both are laden with salt. So the cod, which is packaged and imported, usually from Nova Scotia, must be soaked in cold water overnight and the water changed at least twice. The cod is boiled in fresh water. The potatoes can be

Have you tried conch stew yet? cooked with the cod or separately. The flaked fish and whole potatoes are eaten with avocados, bananas and olive oil. It’s also delicious served with a basic tomato sauce or one with ‘the works’ — onions, green peppers and bacon. Others swear by an egg sauce. For many, a codfish breakfast is not complete without hot cornbread or Johnny bread. With all the trimmings, it’s a hearty meal that should see you through to suppertime. For codfish cakes, mashed potatoes and cooked cod are mixed together with an egg and seasonings, shaped into balls or patties and then fried. Fishcakes are usually eaten for lunch, served between a bun, with lettuce, tomato, tartar sauce and a few drops of hot sauce. Many locals eat them with a raisin bun — a nod to the Good Friday holiday when fish cakes are eaten with hot cross buns. Codfish breakfast is on the menu 6am-11.30am on Saturdays at the Speciality Inn (Tel: 236-3133), a popular home-style eatery on South Road in Smith’s Parish. Bouchée Restaurant (295-5759) is on Pitts Bay Road in Hamilton and in 2009 won an award for its codfish breakfast. It’s served Sundays 7.30-11.30am. Best to arrive early at both places, where you’ll pay roughly $15 per head. If your budget is a bit bigger, the Fairmont Southampton’s Sunday breakfast buffet, served at Windows on the Sound, includes codfish and potatoes with all the trimmings. Reservations are required (Tel: 238-2555 for times). Codfish recipes can be found in most Bermuda cookbooks. Cecille C. SnaithSimmons’ The Bermuda Cook Book is a good one to try. n

what’s on food & drink

Mrs. Tea’s Victorian Tea Room Victorian elegance provides lunch or afternoon tea in a charming environment for a genteel afternoon break. Willowbank Hotel & Conference Facility 126 Somerset Road Sandy’s MA06, Bermuda Ph (441) 234-1616 Hours: Lunch or Afternoon Tea • Week Days 12pm-2:30pm • Weekends 12pm-5pm guide 63

food & drink

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The British-style Hog Penny is warm and welcoming.

Your handy pub guide By James Whittaker | Hamilton’s Front Street is the centre of our nightlife scene and the Pickled Onion is a great starting point. With live music, good food and a friendly atmosphere, it’s probably our most popular bar. The Hog Penny, a cozy, oak-panelled bar that inspired the Bull and Finch pub in Cheers, is just steps around the corner. Back on Front Street, Flanagan’s, an Irish bar with an American feel, and the Outback sports bar, which screens everything from basketball to cricket, are worth checking out. Nearby, The Beach – self-proclaimed 64 guide

‘shame of Front Street’ – is a popular late-night spot. It has a good bar menu and closes late; the ‘shame’ bit kicks in if you find yourself still partying in the early hours, having planned a ‘quiet’ night out. Bermudiana Road caters to a more sophisticated crowd. Smart shoes, collared shirts and well-padded wallets are required here, where upscale wine bars nestle between swish restaurants. The Robin Hood on Richmond Road is a lively, British-style pub with reasonably priced food and live sports. If you’re streetwise and like to stray off the beaten track, take a wander down Court Street, where you’ll enjoy the atmosphere in bars like the Spinning Wheel, where the DJ keeps the dance floor busy with a mix of classic soul, reggae and soca. The friendly Swizzle Inn, near the airport, is always a good night out and is famous for potent rum swizzle cocktails. North Rock Brewery on South Road, Smith’s Parish is a good spot to sample locally brewed beers — St. David’s Pale Ale is our favourite. The Frog and Onion in Dockyard will also serve you an authentic, local pint of beer and along with the Bone Fish Bar & Grill, a terrific people-watching spot, it’s your best bet in Dockyard. Out west, the Country Squire in Somerset has a beautiful wooden balcony overlooking Mangrove Bay and is worth a visit, while Henry VIII in Southampton is another popular spot. Wherever you go, don’t drink and ride — leave your rental scooter at the hotel and take a bus, cab or ferry. Cheers! n

© d. yurman 2010


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