Page 1 guide | june 2013

guıde JUNE 2013

Yes, you’re in paradise For every special occasion Hamilton • Dockyard • Major Hotels Tel (441) 295 2351 Fax (441) 292 9153 official rolex retailer

Shopping, sightseeing, dining, culture




Photo by Christina White

The ferry is a good way to get around. See page 55

n Arts

n People

overview 30-31 shows 15 local products 78-80

Minister’s welcome 4 political icon 96 weddings 58-61

n Beaches

n Practicalities

Co-publisher & advertising manager: Lisa Beauchamp, Tel: 278-1850 Co-publisher & editor-in-chief: Tony McWilliam, tmcwilliam@ Tel: 278-1860

top ten 42-43

health, customs etc 52-57

Design & Layout: Creative Circle Media Consulting

n Children

n Shopping

Accounts: Donna Vesely Tel: 278-1831

cool places to visit 36-39

n Events

flex the plastic 64-80

n Sightseeing

calendar 5-15

tours etc. 16-29

n Food & drink

n Sports & activities

best places to eat 85-93 pub guide 94-95

n History old coins 32-33 must-see sites 34-35 shipwrecks 46-47 old postcards 62-63

n Nature National Parks 50-51 our harmless critters 57

n Nightlife where to party 81-83 pub guide 94-95 2 guide

golf, tennis etc 40–41 snorkel 44-45 diving 46-47 fishing 48-49

n Transportation airlines 52-53 bus info 53 bus schedule 57 ferry info 55 taxis 56

n Weather what to expect 57

Delivery: Lloyd Somner Cover image: Flatts Inlet, by Tony McWilliam. Contributors: Don Burgess, Amanda Dale, Lance Furbert, Lisa Greene, Tim Hodgson, Simon Jones, Sarah Lagan, Terri Mello, Mikaela Ian Pearman, Kageaki Smith, guide Published by The Bermuda Sun a subsidiary of MediaHouse © Ltd. Printed by Island Press Ltd. Web: Information and services contained in the guide are believed to be correct at the time of printing; however, prices and times may be subject to change without notice. The Bermuda Sun Limited makes every effort to ensure accuracy but accepts no liability for errors or omissions. Reproduction in whole or in part by permission of the publisher only.

© d. yurman 2013

Men’s Collection


HaMILTON • DOCKYARD • MAJOR HOTELS TEL (441) 295 2351 FAX (441) 292 9153

welcome to bermuda

On behalf of the Government and the people of Bermuda, welcome to our island home. Known around the world for our beautiful pink-sand beaches, stunning turquoise water, world-class golf and warm, friendly people, Bermuda has been a favourite vacation destination for generations of travellers. Let us show you that Bermuda is so much more. We invite you to enjoy unexpected treasures, such as boutique shopping, island-inspired cuisine, vibrant arts and cultural activities and our rich history. During your stay, I hope you have an opportunity to explore some of our finest features, such as the 17th century Town of St. George, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the City of Hamilton and the Royal Naval Dockyard. However you choose to enjoy your Bermuda vacation, I am certain you will have a memorable experience. Once again, welcome and I hope you have a wonderful stay. We look forward to welcoming you back to our shores very soon. Sincerely, The Hon. Shawn G. Crockwell JP, MP Minister of Tourism Development and Transport 4 guide

what’s on


June packed with events

n Onion Day June 1 Celebrate Bermuda’s ‘onion’ heritage with refreshments and onion products. Carter House, 43 Southside Road, St David’s. 10am-5pm. Free. Tel. 297-1953.

n 9th Annual Beach Crap Shoot Tournament June 1 Four-a-side co-ed volleyball tournament. Team registration $160, spectators free. Horseshoe Bay. Tel. 291-1898.

n Deloitte Open Tennis Tournament 2013 June 1-15 Open to members, non-members and visitors of all ages. 2pm, Saturdays and Sundays; 5:30pm Monday to Friday. Entry forms from Spectators free. Pomander Gate Tennis Club, 21 Pomander Road, Paget. Tel. 236-5400.

n Flea market June 1, 8, 15, 22, 29 Bermudian arts and crafts, baked goods, clothing, jewellery and fresh vegetables. Prince Albert Lodge, Somerset Village. 10am-4pm. Free. E-mail

n Rubber Duck Derby June 2 Rubber duck races at Ordnance Island, St George’s. A fundraiser for the Friends of

Hospice charity. Entertainment, children’s area and raffles. 2-5pm. Tel. 232-0859.

n Coronation Anniversary June 2 Special service to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Coronation of HM Queen Elizabeth II. 11am. St Peter’s, Their Majesties Chappell, Duke of York St, St George’s. Tel. 297-2459.

n Arts and crafts June 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30 Featuring Bermudian toys, clothing, jewellery, accessories, gifts, Bermuda Cedar, books and photos. Outside CV Café, Water Street, St George’s. 2-6pm. Tel. 516-1816 / 297-0208.

n Art & Jam June 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 Local artwork, from oil paintings to jewellery, furniture and ceramics. Musicians may join the Jam Session from 4pm. 12-5pm. Free. Artistic Phase, South Road, Smith’s (near Collector’s Hill). Tel. 236-1314.

n Chewstick Neo-Griot Lounge June 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 Open-mic jam session with Bermuda’s best Compiled by Amanda Dale. Listings are subject to change. For the latest, contact the numbers provided/websites or visit To submit a listing, e-mail Amanda Dale: or call 278-1854 guide 5

Lennon 1 2/27/13 11:19 what’s onGuide 1/2 vert_Layout St George’s was once our capital


musical and spoken word talent. 8pm-1am. Free before 9pm, $10 after. Chewstick Neo-Griot Lounge & Café, corner of Court and Elliott Streets, Hamilton. Tel. 292-2439.

n Destination Dockyard

BERMUDA Get your Lennon Bermuda gear at retail stores around the island l CD/Book box set l Double CD l 120-page book

$50 $20 $20

June 3, 10, 17, 24 Street festival at Royal Naval Dockyard. Entertainment, local talent contest, children’s activities, Gombeys, arts and crafts, Bermudian food. 7-10pm. Free.

n Artist presentation June 5 Oil painter Jacqueline Lima presents a slideshow and discussion of her work. 5:30pm. $15. Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art, Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel. 236-2950.

n Harbour Nights


June 5, 12, 19, 26 Enjoy live entertainment, arts and crafts, souvenirs, children’s activities, food and refreshments, at this fun family evening. 7-10pm. Free. Front Street, Hamilton.

Or order online at

n Lennon tribute

And don’t miss the




June 6, 13, 20, 27 Bermudian musicians perform 30 songs by John Lennon, including some written on the island. 6:45-9:45pm. Free. Victualling Yard, Royal Naval Dockyard.

n PURE party June 7 All white party at Gombeys Bar & Restaurant, Clearwater Beach, St David’s. DJs playing reggae, dancehall, soca and Top 40. 10pm-3am. $25, from Kit ‘n’ Caboodle, Jazzy Boutique, Secrets, The Cave and A to Z Boutique. Tel. 705-2109.

n Devonfest June 7-9 The Bermuda National Trust presents a celebration of the Devondale estate in South Continued on page 10

ASCooperBridal13.indd 1

26 Reid Street & 59 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel (441) 295 - 3961 (ext. 413).

Bridal Our

12/18/12 9:29 AM

Visit us online at Email: Store is open Monday through Saturday 10am - 5pm

what’s on

Bermuda Day marked Queen Victoria’s birthday

Continued from page 6

Shore Road, Devonshire. Cocktails and a tour, dinner and dancing, family brunch. Tel. 23606483.

n Throwback happy hour June 7, 14, 21, 28 Over-30s happy hour features music from the Eighties, Nineties and early Noughties until 8pm, then Top 40 tunes, from DJ OB1. 5:30pm-12am. BAA Clubhouse, Woodlands Road, Pembroke.

Club. 7:30pm. $15. Tel. 295-1030.

n Beating the Retreat June 10 — Clocktower Parade, Royal Naval Dockyard June 19 — Front Street, Hamilton Military music, show tunes and marching formations by the Bermuda Regiment Band and Corps of Drums, and the Bermuda Islands Pipe Band and Dancers. 8:30pm. Free.

n Playwright contest

June 8 Kings & Queens Production presents a father and daughter dinner and dance, at the Fairmont Hamilton Princess. 7-11pm. Ages 12-19. Tickets $75 from

June 13-15, 19-22 The Bermuda Musical & Dramatic Society presents Famous for 15 Minutes, its 10th Annual Playwriting Competition. Six finalists present their 15-minute scripts. 8pm. Tickets $25. Tel. 292-0848.

n Folk music

n Marion-Bermuda Yacht Race

n Princess For A Day

June 8 Blues night featuring Alice Stuart, at the Bermuda Folk Club. Spanish Point Boat

Take a tour Experience a more intimate, personal and local tour of Bermuda with Heidi Cowen’s Byways Tours. Heidi is a 5th generation Bermudian who comes from a line of Lighthouse Keepers from Gibbs Hill Lighthouse in Southampton. Her tours revolve around her historical knowledge and love for the beauty of her Island. Tours are generally from 5 to 6 hours and include a lunch stop at the tiny Grannie’s Kitchen on North Shore, where Grannie prides herself on her homemade, fresh local food. After a peaceful lunch in a nearby park, the tour continues to the other end of this island while Heidi regales her charges (only about 6 per tour) with her historical knowledge and quirky local stories. 441-535-9169

10 guide

June 14-22 This biennial yacht race starts at Buzzards Bay, Marion, Massachusetts, and ends at St David’s Head, St George’s. Events hosted by the Royal Hamilton Amateur Dinghy Club. Tel. 236-2250. and

n Golf tournament June 14-17 The Bermuda Amateur Stroke Play Championship — 72 holes featuring a Men’s and Ladies’ Division. Applications to the Bermuda Golf Association, before June 7. Tee times 8am. Spectators free. Tel. 295-9972.

n Bermuda Highland Games June 15 The 2nd Annual Bermuda Highland Games includes performances by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police Pipe Band and Dancers, the Bermuda Island Pipe Band, Somerset Brigade Band, the Bermuda Regiment, and dancers from Ontario and Nova Scotia. Games include: Tossing the Caber; field races; a kilted running race; Tug ‘O War; and a children’s running race. $5, children under-12 free. Saltus Field, Saltus

what’s on

Locals say summer starts May 24

Grammar School, Pembroke. 2:30-9pm.

n Children’s triathlon June 15 Youngsters aged three to 15 are invited to swim, bike and run in the 25th Annual Capital G Iron Kids Triathlon. A carnival also features fun castles, face painting and food stalls. Races 3pm, carnival 12-5:30pm. Clearwater Beach, St David’s. Register at Tel. 294-5023.

n Heineken Round the Island Seagull Race

tional Light Tackle Tournament is an invitational, with three people on each team. Weigh-ins at Barr’s Bay Park, Pembroke, 4:30-6:30pm. Tel. 293-0875.

n Beach volleyball June 22 The Coppertone Co-Ed Beach Volleyball Tournament raises funds for the Bermuda Cancer & Health Centre. Horseshoe Bay. Register at by June 19. Tel. 291-1898.

n Bermuda Pow Wow

June 15 Small boats run on British Seagull engines in a race around the island for charity. Sandys Boat Club, Mangrove Bay, hosts the postrace party and barbecue. 8:30am. $65 to enter, BBQ dinner $20. Tel. 298-1220.

June 22-23 The St David’s Islanders and Native Community celebrate their ancestors, with ceremonies, dancers, songs, drums, traditional foods, arts and crafts. $8, $4 children. 11am-5pm. Tel. 292-1387.

n Fishing tournament

n Miss Bermuda Pageant

June 16-22 Bermuda Anglers Club Four-Day Interna-

June 23 Island beauties compete to represent

12 guide

sizzling summer Free Activities

We are so glad that you are here and hope that you’ll enjoy some of the many FREE activities designed to enhance your adventures around our beautiful Island. Be sure to join us for some of the many historical, cultural and entertaining things to see and do! You’ll see why Bermuda is so much more. For more information visit

what’s on

Bermuda’s motto, Quo Fata Ferunt,

Bermuda at the Miss World Pageant. MidOcean Ampitheatre, Fairmont Southampton Resort. 8pm. Tickets $65/85/105, from

n Archaeology June 23 Dr Michael Jarvis presents ‘Back to the Beginning: Smith’s Settlement and Bermuda Archaeology’, on Smith’s Island via the Stommel. Departs King’s Square, St George’s, 1pm and 4pm. $10. Spaces limited. Tel. 292-1681.

n Documentary series June 23 Catch an award-winning documentary and an independent film. 3pm and 5:15pm. $15 per film. Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute, Pembroke. Tel. 297-7314.

n Thrifty Saturdays June 29 Clothing, furniture, homeware, artwork and

other thrift items. 10am-2pm. 57 Court Street, Hamilton. Free. Tel. 519-1802.

n The Big Chill Fridays — Lido, Elbow Beach hotel. 5:3011pm. Sundays — Cambridge Beaches Resort pool, Sandys. Afternoon onwards. DJs and musicians present an Ibiza-style ‘chill-out’ vibe. Free. Refreshments available. Tel. 334-8669.

n Afternoon High Tea Wednesdays and Saturdays Sweet P hosts afternoon tea featuring local produce at The Bermuda Perfumery, Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street, St George’s. 2-5pm, $24. For reservations call 747-2060.

tours n Jubilee Exhibit June 1-29 Bermuda’s fascination with British Royalty from 1883-1953, as seen in memorabilia


at Dockyard

Located in the old Cooperage Building, the Bermuda Craft Market is home to a group of talented crafters creating beautiful hand made Bermudian souvenirs. It is not uncommon to find the crafters at their tables demonstrating their particular craft and eager to chat. We invite you to browse the market for that special souvenir for yourself or a friend . Amongst the crafts on display and for sale are candles, Bermuda cedar, notecards, ceramics, Christmas decorations, Banana leaf dolls, sand sculpture, jewellery in many forms, wearable art , needlework, quilting, seaglass art, soaps, Antique books and prints, reproducations. Bermuda maps and more. For your convenience we also carry a range of Bermuda themed foods from honey, jam, pepper jams , cookies and rum cakes. We also carry bottled water and sodas. Postage stamps and transport tokens also available. 14 guide

April through October 9am - 6pm or 8pm for overnight cruise passengers 7-Days a week We accept Master Card, Visa & American Express 4 Freeport Road, Dockyard 441 234-3208 or

means ‘whither the fates carry us’ collected by St George’s Historial Society members. $5 adults, $2 children. Mondays to Thursdays, and Saturdays. Duke of Kent Street, St George’s. Tel. 297-0423.

n Walking Club of Bermuda Sundays June 2: Car park behind King’s Square, St George’s June 9: Car park at Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo, Flatts village June 16: Western entrance of Spittal Pond, Smith’s June 23: Blue Hole Park, Bailey’s Bay June 30: Admiralty House, Pembroke All walks free, average distance six miles. Meet at 7am. Tel. 737-0437 or www.walk.

arts n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art June 1-30: Drawing with Light: Photog-

what’s on

raphy in Bermuda — cameras and vintage black and white photographs. June 15-25: Artist in Residence — Joe Sweeney. Open Monday to Saturday, 10am-4pm, and Sunday 11am-4:30pm, $5 admission, free for members and children under-12. Wheelchair accessible, with Homer’s Café for refreshments. Afternoon tea on Sundays, 2-4pm, $15 per person. Botanical 
Gardens, Paget. Tel. 236-2950.

n Bermuda Society of Arts June 1-15 — Building Blocks. June 7-26 — Womanocracy: Patricia Nesbit Collaboration June 28-30 — Members’ 60th Anniversary Show Free. Monday to Friday, 10am-4pm, and Saturday, 10am-2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel. 292-3824.


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Your personal invitation to There are very few places in the world where a town has survived and functioned essentially unchanged through 400 years to the present. There is only one in the New World. This is The Towne of St. George in Bermuda. For all that Bermuda is so noticeably a ‘Different World’ than America our roots are tightly intertwined. In 1609 the ship ‘Sea Venture’ grounded just off St.George in a storm. She was on her way to Jamestown — then a St.Peter’s. The Oldest fledgling settlement — and carried the new Governor of Virginia. functioning Anglican Church in the New These were the first Bermuda residents as it turned out. World. They spent the next year building a new ship to complete their journey. The Deliverance then proceeded on, laden with survivors and food to sail up the Chesapeake to Jamestown just in time to save the settlement from starvation. This is just a glimpse into the profound historical importance of St.George to our American cousins. The relationship continued through the era of the Declaration Deliverance.Built of Independance and later the tragedy of the Civil from scratch by the War and actually continues to this day. shipwreck survivors From a historical perspective what makes would be the saviour of Jamestown in 1610. St.George so unique is that nearly every building is original. These are not reconstructions in a theme village, the town The Tucker is genuine in every respect. The 20 plus major buildings protected by House. Nathanial the Bermuuda National Trust in St.George, along with the town’s desTucker’s part in the Gunpowder Plot is ignation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it’s close relationships not well knowwn. with Jamestown and Colonial Williamsburg all attest to how rare and valuable it is. This is the oldest continuously working settlement in the new world. A visit to St. George should start at the World Heritage Center where a diorama and


Nostalgic Heritage

SOMERS WHARF Shopping & Dining Shopping & Dining Complex, Water Street


Complex, Water Street St. George’s 1

16 guide

Exclusive and original hand-painted ceramics by Barbara Finsness

( 441) 297-1514


see the sights Our ambassador of goodwill will set you on your way tions are numbered on our maps and described in the text. Use our large pullout map (between pages 16 & 17) for an island overview; for a map of St. George’s, see page 18, the City of Hamilton on 24, and Dockyard on 29. Also, ‘W’ at the end of a listing denotes ‘wheelchair accessible’.


Photo by Kageaki Smith

Our living legend Johnny Barnes, so feted he even has his own statue.

He’s the ultimate ‘morning person’ and a warm greeting from folk hero Johnny Barnes is the ideal way to start your sightseeing tour. Every weekday he’s at Crow Lane roundabout from 6am to 10am, showering city commuters with waves, blown kisses and a smile that could melt the heart of even the most jaded traveller. We begin our tour in the historic former capital, St. George’s. Wherever you go, don’t forget to greet all you meet: as Johnny reminds us each morning — it’s the Bermuda way!

In 1609 the survivors of the English wreck of the Sea Venture struggled onto Bermuda’s shores, well short of their intended destination of Jamestown, Virginia. By 1615 the Somers Island Company was developing Bermuda and exploiting her natural resources. The island was surveyed and what is now St. George’s Parish was set aside as public or company land. The remainder was divided into eight tribes or parishes, named after the principal shareholders in the Somers Island Company. These were, from east to west: Hamilton, Smith’s, Devonshire, Pembroke, Paget, Warwick, Southampton and Sandys. Along with St. George’s, they have become the nine parishes of Bermuda.

Using our maps


It’s easy to find your way around Bermuda. There are four main arteries: South Road runs along the south shore, North Shore Road hugs the north shore, Middle Road runs through the centre of the island and Harbour Road follows the inner harbour, across from Hamilton. Each road brings you into the city of Hamilton. Key attrac-

Bermuda’s oldest town, St. George’s, was founded in 1612 and became a World Heritage Site in 2000. It was our capital until 1815, when Hamilton became the capital. 1-17 are on our detailed map on page 18. 1 St. Peter’s Church [now also known as Their Majesties Chappell], Duke of York St., is the oldest Anglican church outside guide 17

see the sights

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To Unfinished Church & Fort St. Catherine St. George’s Historical Society Museum Printery & Museum


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7 Sir George Somers Statue


Ordnance Island Cruise Ship Terminal


5 Heritage



Cruise ship terminal

Penno’s Wharf

the British Isles. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm, Services Wed 8am, Sun 11:15am. Suggested donation of $5 per adult. Call ahead for group visits. Tel: 297-2459 2 Bermuda National Trust Museum at the Globe Hotel, corner Duke of York St. & King’s Square. Built by Governor Samuel Day, circa 1700. The offices of the Confederate agent, Major Norman Walker, were housed here during the American Civil War (1861-1865). The museum highlights Bermuda’s American Civil War involvement along with a video presentation ‘Bermuda: Centre of the Atlantic’. For opening hours tel. 236-6483 or 297-1423. Closed on Public Holidays. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. Gift Shop. *Combination

18 guide

tickets to all 3 museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 3 Tucker House, Water Street. Built in the 1750s. Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council, moved here in 1775 and his family stayed until 1809. On view are antique heirlooms from one of Bermuda’s oldest families and a room furnished as a tribute to Joseph Rainey, the first black man to be seated in the U.S. House of Representatives. The cellar houses a permanent archaeological exhibit. For opening hours tel. 236-6483 or 297-0545. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all 3 museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum,

ladies’ petticoats as they walked. #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 4 St. George’s Post Office, open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. Tel. 297-1610 5 World Heritage Centre, at Penno’s Wharf in the Queen’s Warehouse, circa 1860. History is brought to life through the St. George’s Foundation’s restoration of this building. Enjoy the Orientation Exhibits Gallery, ‘A Gateway to Bermuda’ and film ‘A Stroll through St. George’s’. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm. Adults $5, students $2. Tel. 297-5791. Also home to Second Hand Rose Charity Shop. W 6 Stocks & Pillory and the Ducking Stool re-enactment at King’s Square. See the ‘gossiping wench’ get ducked in the harbour at noon on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thurs & Saturdays. 7 Deliverance, a full-scale replica of the ship built by the Sea Venture castaways to take them on to Virginia. Located across the bridge from King’s Square, on Ordnance Island. For opening hours, tel. 297-0045. Adults $3, children $2. Tel. 297-0045. 8 Town Hall, facing King’s Square, the meeting place of the Corporation of St. George’s. Open 9am-4pm, Mon-Sat except holidays. W 9 State House, above and behind the Town Hall, one of the oldest stone buildings on the island, dating from 1620. Originally the seat of government, now a Masonic Lodge. Open Wednesdays, 10am-2pm, May to November. 10 The Bermudian Heritage Museum, junction of York & Water Streets, showcases accomplishments of black Bermudians. Open Mon-Fri, 10am-3 pm. Entry $4. Tel. 297-4126. W (lower floor only). 11 St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden, Featherbed Alley. This historic house, a museum since 1922, features cedar furniture, paintings, and other local relics along with a replica of an early 16th-century Gutenberg press. Open Mon-Thur & Sat, 10am-4 pm. Adults $5, children $2. Tel. 297-0423 12 The Old Rectory, Broad Alley, behind

see the sights

Personality tours from the heart Walk with Penelope in her backyard: the Town of St. George. “More than just history. Meet the people. Learn about us and have fun... ”

Visit and book your tour.

E: T: 441 519-7292

“Simply the Best”… award winning wheelchair accessible Bermuda glass bottom water tours since 2002. Request a tour: guide 19

see the sights

Car rentals are not permitted in Bermuda.

St. Peter’s Church. Captain George Dew built this Bermuda cottage circa 1699. A private residence owned by the Bermuda National Trust. Exterior viewing only. Tel. 236-6483 13 Unfinished Church. Top of Duke of Kent St. This magnificent Gothic revival structure was meant to be a replacement for St. Peter’s Church. Started in the 1870s it was beset by financial difficulties, parish infighting and a damaging storm. It was abandoned on the eve of its completion. 14 Fort St. Catherine, off Barry Road. 19th-century fort contains cannon, guns, military exhibits. Open Mon-Fri, 9:30am4:30pm. Last entry at 4 pm. Adults $7, children 5 to 15, $3 (must be accompanied by an adult), seniors $5. Tel. 297-1920 W 15 Gates Fort dates from the early 17th century. Originally a small sea battery of three guns. Open during daylight hours. 16 Somers Garden, Duke of York Street. British Admiral Sir George Somers was shipwrecked in Bermuda in 1609, continued his journey to Virginia and then returned to the island in 1610. When he died in Bermuda his heart was buried here and his body was taken to England. Open daily 7.30am-7pm 17 The Bermuda Perfumery is located in historic Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street. For more than 80 years, the Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing perfumes. All are made on the premises. Take a free tour and sample unique fragrances. Open Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm. Tel. 293-0627 Refer to the large pullout map. 18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences, Ferry Reach. On Wednesdays at 10am, visit this world-renowned research station. Take a free tour of the laboratories, grounds and learn about ongoing projects. Tel. 297-1880 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House. An historic stone structure thought to be the oldest dwelling in St.

20 guide

David’s. Admission $2. For opening hours Tel. 293-5960 21 Great Head National Park. At the end of Battery Road, St. David’s, lies a 20th-century abandoned fortification surrounded by open spaces, plus a Lost at Sea Memorial. 22 St. David’s Lighthouse. Stands at the top of Lighthouse Hill Road. For opening hours, tel. 236-5902.

HAMILTON PARISH Named after James Hamilton, second Marquis of Hamilton, an original member of Somers Islands Company. Refer to the large pullout map. 23 After leaving the Causeway go up Blue Hole Hill to the junction of Wilkinson Ave & North Shore Rd. You are now in Bailey’s Bay. 24 Blue Hole Hill Park. Located just over the Causeway, the park joins Walsingham Nature Reserve and Tom Moore’s Jungle and provides an excellent walking trail with caves and fish ponds. 25 Crystal Caves, 8 Crystal Caves Rd, Hamilton Parish. Formed more than 30 million years ago and discovered in 1905 when 14-year-old Bernard Wilkinson stumbled upon a cave opening. He was later lowered down the 140-foot drop where he saw magnificent crystal stalactites and stalagmites that surround a clear 55-foot deep lake. Tours 9:30am4:30pm year round. Adults $22 one cave, $30 both caves. Children $10 one cave, $12 both. Last combination tour 3.45pm. Tel. 293-0640 26 Holy Trinity Church, Trinity Church Road. The Anglican Church of Hamilton Parish offers a scenic and tranquil respite from sightseeing. 27 Tom Moore’s Jungle, Bailey’s Bay. Woods surrounding Tom Moore’s Tavern are a must for nature lovers. The poet Tom Moore spent happy hours writing his verses here. Tours are available for groups via the Parks Dept., Tel. 236-5902.





AND STILL GROWING Visit for more details. The Crystal Caves are a world of delicate splendour with magnificent crystal stalactites and stalagmites, each surrounding a clear lake. Come see the Crystal & Fantasy Caves, an exquisite world that Mother Nature began over 30 million years ago. HOW TO FIND US: BUS ROUTES 1/3/10/11 | JUST OFF WILKINSON AVE 8 Crystal Cave Road, Hamilton Parish CR 04, Bermuda | 441-293-0640 |

see the sights

Mark Twain: “I’d rather be in Bermuda.”

SMITH’S PARISH Named after one of the nine chief investors of the Somers Isles (Bermuda) Company, Sir Thomas Smith. Refer to the large pullout map. 29 The Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo boasts native fish, exotic reptiles, free-flying birds, and pink flamingos in a beautiful, colourful setting. Exhibits include ‘North Rock’, a 140,000-gallon
replica of a local living coral reef, and ‘Islands of Australasia’, the interactive ‘Discovery Cove’, new ‘Madagascar’ exhibit and scenic ‘Coastal Walkway’. The Natural History Museum focuses on the island’s geology, native biodiversity and habitats. Open daily 9am-5pm. (last admission 4pm). Adults $10, children (5-12 years) $5. Tel. 293-2727 W 30 Flatts Bridge. Wander across to quaint Flatts Village with its magnificent views of the Inlet and Harrington Sound. 31 Devil’s Hole Aquarium. No longer in use. 32 Spittal Pond, South Road. This 64-acre reserve is part of a necklace of wetlands along the south shore, providing a diversity of habitats and a wide variety of birds, especially during migration seasons. Open daily dawn to dusk, admission free. Tel. 236-6483 33 Verdmont, corner of Collector’s Hill & Sayle Road. Built about 1710 in the Georgian style, Verdmont houses our finest collection of antique Bermuda cedar furniture, porcelain, portraits, children’s furniture and toys. A new exhibit highlights the people who lived at Verdmont. For opening hours tel. 236-6483 or 236-7369. Closed holidays. Adults $5, children 6-18 years, $2. *Combination tickets to all 3 museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont).

DEVONSHIRE PARISH Named after William Cavendish, 1st Earl of Devonshire. Refer to the large pullout map.

22 guide

34 Palm Grove, South Road. Wellmanicured private estate has an unusual bas-relief ‘water map’ of Bermuda, an aviary and many varieties of palms. Open Mon-Thur 8am-5pm (closed holidays). 35 Montpelier Arboretum, Middle Road. A tranquil retreat featuring a wide range of island trees and plants.

PAGET PARISH Named after William Paget, 4th Baron Paget de Beaudesert. Refer to the large pullout map. 36 King Edward VII Memorial Hospital, Point Finger Road. See page 55. Tel. 2362345 37 Botanical Gardens, Berry Hill, Point Finger & South Roads. Open daily sunrise to sunset. Enjoy hundreds of well-marked flowers, shrubs and trees. Admission free. On Tue, Wed & Fri mornings free tours at 10:30am, departing from the car park outside the entrance to the Visitors’ Centre, weather permitting. Visitors’ Centre usually open 9am to 1 pm, Mon - Fri. W 38 Camden, South Road, in the grounds of the Botanical Gardens. Official residence of the Premier, used for official functions only. Open Tues & Fri noon-2pm, weather permitting. 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art, includes Bermuda inspired work by Winslow Homer and Georgia O’Keeffe, plus changing exhibits. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, Sundays 11am-4.30pm, closed public holidays. Adults $5, children under 12 free. Homers Café open 10:30am-4pm Mon-Sat. Afternoon Tea served 2-4pm, Thursdays and Saturdays. Tel. 236-2950 W 40 Waterville. An elegant house, built circa 1725, now the HQ of the Bermuda National Trust. See the Bermuda Rose Society’s showcase garden and the Mary-Jean Mitchell Green Memorial Garden & Gazebo. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, admission free. Tel. 236-6483 Continued on page 26


o cti a r tt ea




An adventure awaits...

Explore two floors of interactive exhibits. Great for all ages!


Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute 40 Crow Lane, Hamilton • Open 9am - 5pm Weekdays, 10am -5pm Weekends

see the sights




24 guide






















To F ort Hamilton

Bermuda’s capital city, Hamilton, is

J Historical Residential Buildings Corner of Dundonald and King Streets K A detour may be

C Cedar Avenue

D St Theresa’s Cathedral Corner Cedar Avenue and Angle Street

Elliott and Princess Streets

outside staircases and verandahs Corner of

and rare G Attractive 1800’s built buildings,

F Alaska Hall Corner of Angle and Court Streets

E The Centre Junction of North and Angle Streets

R The Sessions House and Magistrates Court Corner of Parliament and Reid Streets S Freemasons Hall Corner of Reid Street and Chancery Lane

Q Cenotaph and Cabinet Building, Front Street opposite Cenotaph

P Custom House Warehouse, 1794 Corner Court and Front Streets

Court Street between Church & Reid Streets

the oldest functioning Friendly Society Lodge

N The 1937 Recorder Building Court Street between Victoria and Church Streets O Alexandria Lodge,


Points A - Y on Map

Recommended route

Return to City Hall.

Y The Anglican Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity Corner of Burnaby and Church Streets

Corner of Queen and Reid Streets X The Arcade Corner of Reid and Burnaby Streets

National Library and the Bermuda Historical Society Museum

V Corner of Front and Queen Streets, a detour may be taken westward to Albouy’s Point & Barr’s Bay Park W The Bermuda

U Old Yacht Club Steps on Front Street

Commercial Buildings best viewed from south side South side of Front St. opposite Chancery Ln.

T Prominent Historical


For a full description of the historical locations identified visit

M St Paul AME Church Corner of Victoria and Court Streets

Corner of King and Victoria Streets L Manchester Unity Hall Victoria Street at Joell’s Alley

taken at this point to Fort Hamilton

I Dr E.F. Gordon Square on Dundonald Street

B Eastern gate of Victoria Park on Cedar Avenue

Begin at City Hall.

H Corner of Dundonald and Court Streets

A The City Hall Church Street in front of City Hall

City of Hamilton Walkway of History

antipode to Perth, Western Australia.

see the sights guide 25

see the sights

Just wide enough for a mast, Somerset

Continued from page 23 41 Paget Marsh and Boardwalk, Paget

Parish. Lush 25-acre nature reserve, a joint project of the Bermuda National Trust & Bermuda Audubon Society. The pond and marsh attract many birds. Open daily, daylight hours, free. Tel. 236-6483

PEMBROKE PARISH Named after English aristocrat William Herbert, 3rd Earl of Pembroke (15801630). Home of our capital city of Hamilton since 1815. Refer to large pullout map and see our 
 detailed City Map on page 24 42 Barr’s Bay Park, on Hamilton Harbour beside the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club on Pitt’s Bay Road. Sit in the sun and watch the boats sail by. W 43 Point Pleasant Park by the waterfront, Albuoys Point, next to the Ferry Terminal. Relax on a bench, bring a picnic lunch. W 44 The Birdcage, a photogenic traffic ki-

26 guide

osk at the corner of Front & Queen Streets. 45 Perot Post Office, Queen Street. An architectural gem and a handy spot to buy stamps, transport passes, tickets and tokens. Credit cards accepted. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm Tel. 292-9052 W 46 Bermuda National Library & Historical Society Museum, Queen Street. Set in the gardens of Par-la-Ville Park. Library open Mon-Thurs 8:30am-7pm (July & Aug until 6pm), Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm (closed Sun, July and Aug). Tel. 295-2905. Museum open 10am-2pm Mon-Fri (May–Oct); 10:30am–1pm Mon, Tues, Wed, Fri (Nov–April); closed holidays. Free. Tel. 295-2487 W 47 City Hall, 17 Church Street, one of Hamilton’s most beautiful public buildings. Houses City Hall Theatre, the Mayor’s Parlour and Corporation of Hamilton offices. Tel. 292-1234. The Bermuda National Gallery is on the second floor (tel. 295-9428), featuring both historic and contemporary local and international art. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Guided tours Thursdays, 10:30am. Free. Also home to the Bermuda Society of Arts Gallery, which hosts rotating exhibitions. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Free. Tel. 292-3824 W 48 Central Bus Terminal, Washington Street, close to City Hall. All routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave from here. See pages 54 and 57. 49 Par-la-Ville Park, Queen Street, Hamilton. A haven for relaxation in the middle of our bustling city. W 50 Victoria Park, Cedar Avenue. Lovely park created in the 1880s to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. W 51 Anglican Cathedral, Church Street, a neo-Gothic city landmark. Open 8am-5pm. The cathedral tower, with panoramic views of the city, is open 9am-4pm Mon-Fri. Audio tours $3, tower entry $3. Sunday service at 8am and 10am. Tel. 292-4033 W 52 General Post Office, corner of Parlia-

Bridge is the world’s smallest drawbridge. ment & Church Streets. Open Mon-Fri 8am5pm, Sat 8am-noon W 53 Sessions House & Jubilee Clock Tower. The House of Assembly meets Fridays at 10am. Visitors are permitted in the gallery; dress appropriately. Tel. 292-7408. The Supreme Court is located on the lower floor of the Sessions House, visitors are permitted. 
Tel. 292-1350 W 54 The Cabinet Building, Front and Parliament streets. Here the Senate (our upper house) meets Wednesdays at 10am. Visitors are permitted. Fronted by the Cenotaph on Front Street, a memorial to war veterans, and Sally Bassett statue. Tel. 292-5501 55 Bermuda National Library Youth Division, 74 Church Street. Open Mon-Thurs & Sat 9am-5pm, Fri 10am-5pm. Tel. 295-0487 56 Fort Hamilton, approached by Victoria & King Streets & Happy Valley Road. A restored fort, its moat is filled with native plants and shrubs. Spectacular views of the city and harbour. Open daily 9am-5pm. Free. W 57 The Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI), a 15-minute walk from the city centre, on East Broadway. Features two floors of interactive exhibits revealing the mysteries of the ocean. Experience deep-sea exploration through the eyes of world-renowned explorers including Bermuda’s own Teddy Tucker. See artefacts and treasure recovered from shipwrecks around Bermuda. Gift shop and waterside restaurant, The Harbourfront. Open Mon–Fri 9am-5pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm. Last admission 4pm. Members free, adults $12.50, seniors $10, children (7-16) $6, children (under 6) free. Tel. 297-7314. W 58 Johnny Barnes Statue. Just down the road from the BUEI, a life-size statue of our unofficial ambassador of goodwill, Johnny Barnes (see page 17), by sculptor Desmond Fountain. 59 Government House, North Shore Road & Langton Hill. The imposing residence of His Excellency the Governor.

see the sights

WARWICK PARISH Named after Robert Rich, 2nd Earl of Warwick (1587-1658). Centrally located with many beautiful beaches along the South Shore. Refer to the large pullout map. 60 Warwick Pond. Take a walk on the

interpretive woodland nature trail in this nine-acre nature reserve, with Bermuda’s second largest fresh water pond. Open daylight hours. 61 Christ Church, historic Presbyterian Church dating back to 1719, one of the oldest in the western hemisphere.

SOUTHAMPTON PARISH Named after Henry Wriothesley, 3rd Earl of Southampton (1573-1624). Boasts many beaches including the most popular, Horseshoe Bay Beach. Refer to the large pullout map. 62 Gibbs Hill Lighthouse provides pan-

oramic views and there’s a restaurant, too, The Dining Room. Lighthouse open daily 9am-4:30pm. Adults $2.50, children (4 and under) free. Tel. 238-0524

SANDYS PARISH (Somerset) Named after English aristocrat Sir Edwin Sandys (1561-1629). The western-most parish, made up of five islands. Refer to the large pullout map. 63 Somerset Bridge is the smallest draw-

bridge in the world; just wide enough to let the mast of a sailboat pass through. 64 Scaur Hill Fort, Somerset Road. Enjoy breathtaking views of the Great Sound and Ely’s Harbour. Open daily 7:30am4pm, free. Grounds open 24 hours. Tel. 236-5902. 65 Heydon Trust, 43 acres of meticulously preserved grounds, filled with indigenous plants. The tiny, exquisite chapel was built in the 1620s. Open daily, dawn till dusk, free. guide 27

see the sights

Use pink bus stops for travel into Hamilton

Everyone remembers their first kiss


A portion of the proceeds from Dolphin Quest supports vital marine education, conservation and research.

28 guide

66 St. James’ Church, the Anglican church of Somerset, has a graceful spire and imposing walkway. 67 Springfield Community Centre & Gilbert Nature Reserve, Somerset. This National Trust Property once comprised a small plantation. Springfield, the old mansion with buttery and slave quarters, dates back to 1740. Five acres of walking trails. 68 Somerset Village overlooks charming Mangrove Bay. Stop for a meal or some shopping. 69 Enter the Royal Naval Dockyard through stone gates. This major attraction includes the Clocktower Mall, a Craft Market, the Bermuda Arts Centre, restaurants and entertainment — all housed in restored naval buildings. 70 Dockyard Visitor Information Centre is near the fast ferry dock. Open daily, 9am5pm. Tel. 238-4842 71 The National Museum of Bermuda includes the Commissioner’s House, which exhibits our rich nautical history and extensive artefact collections. Open daily, 9:30am-5pm, last admission 4pm. Adults $10, senior citizens $8 and children 12 and under free, if accompanied by an adult. Tel. 234-1418. W 72 Dolphin Quest Bermuda, Dockyard. Enjoy an extraordinary encounter with dolphins. Open 9:30am-4:30pm daily. Reservations required. www.dolphinquest. org 
Tel: 234-4464 or toll free 800-2483316 73 The Craft Market in the Old Cooperage features Bermuda cedar work, candle and jewellery making, pottery, banana dolls and many other crafts, with demonstrations by local artisans. Open daily 9am-5pm and until 8pm when cruise ships are in port. Tel: 234-3208. W 74 The Bermuda Arts Centre features studios housing various artists and exhibits which change every few weeks. A shop offers an extensive range of locally made gifts, paintings, sculptures and a wide print

see the sights

and blue for heading away from the city. Royal Naval Dockyard T Taxi

Dockyard Glassworks & Bermuda Rum Cake Company

Bermuda Clayworks

Snorkel Park Beach


Maritime Lane

Storehouse Lane

Cloc ktow er P arad e



69 Watersports Centre

Clocktower Shopping Mall


Victualling Yard



Bermuda Arts Centre

Camber Road




Bermuda Craft Market

Commissioner’s House

National Museum of Bermuda

Visitor Information Centre

Dolphin Quest



No rth

Dockyard Marina


Ferry Stop

Visitor Information Centre

Cruise Ship Terminal


Visitor Information Centre

selection. Open daily 10am-5pm (closed Good Friday & Christmas Day). Tel. 2342809 W


75 Clocktower Shopping Mall boasts a delightful collection of boutiques and branch stores in a charming, covered mall. W guide 29


Photo by Kageaki Smith

Custodian of the arts: Tom Butterfield enjoys a moment of reflection in the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art, which he founded.

Take time for the arts By Sarah lagan | Bermuda’s art scene is diverse and vibrant. Our small island is packed with art galleries, studios and museums. Our art hot spots include: n Bermuda National Gallery Current exhibitions are Eyes on the World (photojournalism about human rights) in partnership with the Alexia Foundation; Women Artists in the Bermuda National Gallery Collection; Impressions of Bermuda: The David L. White Gift to the BNG; and Meredith Andrews: Portraits of Power. City Hall & Arts Centre, Hamilton. Tel. 295-9428.

n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Masterworks prides itself as “the pre-

30 guide

eminent museum of Bermuda Art” and Bermuda is the subject for many of its works. It hosts the annual Charman Prize and has an Artist in Residence programme that sees international artists offer their interpretations of island life. There’s a gift shop and café. Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel. 299-4000.

n Bermuda Society of Arts Known affectionately as “the people’s gallery”, BSoA features everything from professional artwork to the work of schoolchildren and prisoners. It has four separate galleries and plays host to 50 shows each year. City Hall & Arts Centre, Hamilton. Tel. 292-3824

n National Museum of Bermuda Well worth a visit for those interested in our history, culture and heritage.


Georgia O’Keefe painted in Bermuda Exhibitions and displays range from Bermuda’s Defence Heritage, The Slave Trade and The Royal Navy Collections. Shipwreck Island celebrates the island’s stature as the shipwreck capital of the Atlantic. Local artist Graham Foster’s epic mural, depicting the history of Bermuda, is not to be missed. Dockyard. Tel. 2341418.

n Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard If you are lucky, you might meet some of Bermuda’s artists who are residents at the Arts Centre in Dockyard, including Jonah Jones, Christopher Marson, Christopher Grimes and Chesley Trott. Also enjoy the ever-changing collections by the Plein Air Painters of Bermuda, They’ll give you a good feel for Bermuda’s stunning natural landscapes. Dockyard. Tel. 234-2809.

Masterworks The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,200 pieces of Bermuda inspired art. Renowned artists such as Georgia O’Keefe, Marsden Hartley, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes are part of the Permanent Collection and there is a constantly evolving showcase of local artists. The museum shop sells prints and original local art, and Homer’s Café serves a wide selection of baked goods, lunch items and even afternoon tea. To learn about Bermuda’s culture and history there is no better stop on your itinerary than The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Museum is accessible with ramps and an elevator. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm. $5 admission, free for members and children under 12. Closed public holidays.

Monday-Saturday | 10:00am - 4:00pm Sunday 11:00am – 4:30pm museum is accessible with ramps and an elevator.

The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,200 pieces of Bermuda inspired art; some by such famous names as Georgia O’Keeffe, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes. The museum shop sells prints and original local art, a perfect keepsake to take home! To learn about Bermuda’s culture and history there is no better stop on your vacation itinerary.

Located in the beautiful Botanical Gardens, five minutes from Hamilton, the museum is on three major bus routes (1,2 & 7) and is clearly signposted from all entrances.

at masterworks Hours of operation

Monday - Saturday 10:00am - 4:00pm Sunday, 11:00am - 4:30pm afternoon tea

Sunday, 2:00pm - 4:00pm

Sandwiches, paninis, salads, quiche, soup, hot lunches, baked goods, specialty coffees, afternoon tea and even picnic baskets to go! serviced by

we also offer a range of bakery products that are gluten free The Botanical Gardens • 183 South Road Paget, DV 04 • Bermuda Tel: (441) 299-4000 • Fax: (441)-236-4402 guide 31

historic treasures

One of the exquisite coins that has been fashioned into a keepsake by Walker Christopher Goldsmiths.

Every handcrafted piece bears the weight of history From the early sixteenthcentury, Spanish ships returning from their colonies in Central and South America embarked on the hazardous task of shipping their precious cargo from the New World back to the Old. They used Bermuda as a landmark, but some ended up stricken on our outer reefs. Many ships carried silver and gold, mined and minted into coinage in Mexico, Bolivia and Peru and 32 guide

Photos by Kageaki Smith

Master Jeweller Tim Palmer crafts coins into unique keepsakes.

Juan Bermudez found Bermuda in 1505 historic treasures destined for the Spanish treasuries of Cadiz and Seville. Surviving crewmen were sometimes able to salvage their cargo but storms and hurricanes took their toll on many ‘treasure ships’ well before they caught sight of Bermuda. Salvaging from wrecks was tough. But Richard Norwood, hired as a diver in a futile search for Bermuda pearls, invented the Bermuda Tub in 1612. This primitive diving bell, made from a weighted wine cask, could be lowered over a wreck site and enabled a diver to stay underwater for 45 minutes. In 1641, it was used to recover silver from The Concepción, which came to grief north of Hispaniola (Dominican Republic), carrying tons of silver and gold. In 1715, the Spanish Plate Fleet sank in a hurricane off Florida. While the Spanish were salvaging, their base camp was raided by privateer Henry Jennings, who fled with 120,000 pieces of eight. He retired to Bermuda to live the life of a gentleman. Sea salvaged coins still have strong appeal; the law forbids you from keeping anything found at a wreck but you can find pieces of eight and gold doubloons for sale on Hamilton’s Front Street. Master Jeweller Tim Palmer of Walker Christopher Goldsmiths sets gold and silver treasure coins into handcrafted jewellery. While silver coins or “cobs” tarnish and become encrusted in coral (they are often found in clusters), gold coins remain the same as the day they went to the bottom of the ocean. Owning a significant old coin puts you in touch with the past, as coins bear the weight of history. n guide 33


Photo by Kageaki Smith

Discover how our ancestors lived at the St George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden, located at the corner of Featherbed Alley and Duke of Kent Street, St George’s.

Step back in time By Lance Furbert | For an island of just 21 square miles, we pack in a lot of history. Bermuda’s superb historic sites and museums help tell our unique story but also help unravel the extraordinary saga of the development of English settlements in the New World. Here are some of our best historic sites. n National Museum of Bermuda The largest collection of artifacts and weapons in Bermuda. See slave artifacts, jewellery, silver coins, pottery, boats and large muzzle loading guns. Dockyard. Open daily 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4pm). Tel: 234-1418

n National Trust Museum The Globe Hotel on the northwest corner of King’s Square in St. George’s was built in 1700 by Governor Samuel Day. It houses the Bermuda National Trust Museum, which features the exhibit ‘Rogues & Runners —

34 guide

Bermuda and the American Civil War’. For opening times, tel: 236-6483

n Verdmont A delightful Georgian style historic home at the top of Collector’s Hill, Smith’s Parish. A superb collection of antique Bermuda cedar and mahogany furniture. For opening times, tel: 236-6483

n Bermuda Historical Society Museum Located in Par-la-Ville Park, Hamilton, it was the home of Bermuda’s famous


Bermuda is the oldest British colony. postmaster William Bennett Perot. Exhibits include model of ships plus early Bermudian coins and silver. For opening times, tel: 295-2487

presentation on our forts. Open Mon- Fri, 10am-4pm, tel: 297-1920

n Tucker House

The oldest Anglican Church site in continuous use outside of the British Isles. The first church on the site was built by Governor Richard Moore in 1612. Some headstones in the churchyard date back more than 300 years. Duke of York Street, St. George’s. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm, Sunday service 11.15am, tel: 297-2459

Tucker House, on Water Street, St. George’s, was the home of Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council. Artifacts and portraits of the famous Tucker family include Thomas Tudor Tucker, the longest serving treasurer of the U.S.. Joseph Hayne Rainey, the first African American elected member of the U.S. House of Representatives, once ran a barber’s shop here. For opening times, tel: 236-6483

n St. Peter’s Church, Their Majesties Chappell

n St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden

Located in Mitchell House, which dates from 1730 and is filled with original cedar furnishings, artwork and a working replica Overlooks Gate’s Bay, St. George’s, the of a Gutenberg printing press. The kitchen landing place of the Sea Venture castaways garden and above ground water tank demin 1609. Features dioramas that highlight onstrate features of 18th Century Bermuda our early history, a restored magazine, architecture. Open weapons of all types (from pistols to large 1/2 ad:Layout 2 3/1/10 10:43 AM10am-4pm, Page 1 Mon-Thurs and Saturday. Tel. 297 0423. muzzle loading guns), and an audiovisual

n Fort St. Catherine

National Treasure Bermuda Maritime Museum is now the NATIONAL MUSEUM OF BERMUDA, home to 500 years of Island culture and history. Explore exciting exhibits in our historic military buildings— and watch for many more as we grow!

Royal Naval Dockyard, Sandys Tel. 441-234-1418 • Open every day 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4pm)


Incorporating BERMUDA MARITIME MUSEUM guide 35

for children

Photo by Terri Mello

Don’t worry, he won’t bite: a toddler and a cow get acquainted at the border of Spittal Pond Nature Reserve in Smith’s Parish.

Our child-friendly island By TERRI MELLO | Sure, Bermuda is great for honeymooners and couples. Pink-sand beaches and turquoise water provide the perfect backdrop for a romantic getaway for two. And then there are the rest of us, the ones with whiny toddlers or easilybored grade-schoolers in tow. What can Bermuda offer us? The answer? Lots. Here are a few mom-tested suggestions. 36 guide

Our main beaches have lifeguards

for children

n Spittal Pond Nature Reserve Located on a spectacular stretch of shoreline in Smith’s Parish and kids love wandering along the winding trails, over the rocks and through the woods. You’ll see cows too, grazing at the entrance. Great picnic spot.

Photo by

Why not revive a fad and give your hula hoop a twirl on the beach?

n Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo (BAMZ) A must, whatever your age. Gaze at sharks and barracuda in the dramatic North Rock Tank, get close to giant tortoises and dip into the touch pool. Leave time for the playground before you go (it’s just past the alligator and yes, it’s real!) Tel: 293-2727

n Dockyard Take the fast ferry from Hamilton. At Snorkel Park, kids can swim, splash in the fountains or use the playground. Dolphin Quest (tel: 234-4464) is a short walk away.

n Botanical Gardens An ideal spot to burn energy, five minutes from Hamilton. Explore the gardens and greenhouses, palm groves and grassy hills. Kick a football, throw a Frisbee, bring a picnic. guide 37

for children

Give the children a sweet treat at

n Beaches

n Playgrounds

Next to famous Horseshoe Bay Beach in Southampton is what’s locally known as Baby Beach. Turn right as you walk onto Horseshoe and you’ll find this beautiful cove, shallow and calm and perfect for little ones. Another kid-friendly beach is Tobacco Bay in the east end. Perfect for snorkelling and swimming with shallow water and protective rocks. Bathrooms and refreshments available.

No matter where you are, there’s a playground nearby. A few favourites include Shelly Bay (there’s also a kid-friendly beach here), Warwick Long Bay, Clearwater Beach (St. David’s) and Parson’s Road (Pembroke). 

n Bermuda Underwater 
 Exploration Institute (BUEI) Explore the ocean without getting wet! Stop in the seashell room and then take a simulated submarine dive to the lower level. Bring along a handful of American quarters for the little merry-go-round on the lower level. Tel: 292-7219

n Palm Grove Gardens This free attraction near Ariel Sands Resort in Devonshire is rarely busy and offers beautiful scenery as well as an aviary with parrots.

n Tiny Tots at Masterworks The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art (in the Botanical Gardens) offers art classes for tots on Wednesday from 9.45-10.30am & 10.45-11.30am. Bring along your baby, toddler or preschooler for some art fun, story

Gorgeous John Smith’s Bay in Smith’s Parish is big enough to give

38 guide

for children

Bailey’s Bay Ice Cream Parlour time and games. Members $7 / non-members $10. No sign up necessary, just drop in. Tel. 299-4000 for more details.

n At night… We have three movie theatres and they often play animated features and other child-friendly movies. The Speciality Cinema and Grill (tel: 292-2135) and Liberty Theatre (292-7296) are in the city of Hamilton, Neptune Cinema (also 292-7296) is in Dockyard and Southside Cinema (297-2821) is in St. David’s. See the Bermuda Sun newspaper for movie listings. If food’s the priority, kid-friendly eateries include LaTrattoria, Rosa’s Cantina (both on the city) and The Speciality Inn, 10 minutes outside the city in Smith’s Parish. n

Photo by Terri Mello

Right next to famous Horseshoe Bay Beach is ‘baby beach’ — a tiny cove ideal for toddlers who enjoy a paddle.

Photo by

your kids plenty of space but small enough to easily keep an eye on them. guide 39

sports & activities

Photo supplied

Short and spectacular: the Fairmont Southampton Resort boasts 18, par-3 holes.

Lots to do for active visitors If you’re the sporty type, you’ll find plenty to do on the island. Here’s a guide to what’s out there. See for detailed listings. n Golf Bermuda has more golf courses per square mile than any other country in the world. Some clubs are private, but many hotels can arrange tee times for their guests. From an enticing par-3 executive course to a championship-level course given the seal of approval by the PGA of America, Bermuda is a golfer’s paradise. All our courses are blessed with beautiful scenery. Be sure to toss a camera in your golf bag. If you want to get the kids involved, there is a mini golf course in Southampton for young families (tel. 238-8800) and a brand new mini golf course at Dockyard (see next page). Our golf courses: Belmont Hills, Warwick, tel. 236-6400 Fairmont Southampton, tel. 239-6952 Mid-Ocean, Hamilton Parish, tel. 293-0330

40 guide

Ocean View (9 holes), Devonshire, tel. 295-9092 Port Royal, Southampton, tel. 234-0974 Riddell’s Bay, Warwick, tel. 238-1060 Rosewood Tucker’s Point, Hamilton Parish, tel. 298-6970

n Tennis Most courts are attached to hotels. Another option is the government-run tennis stadium, which has clay and hard courts. It’s on Marsh Folly Road, a 10-minute walk from Hamilton centre. Open 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat-Sun. Courts are $10 an hour (double it under floodlights). Tel: 292-0105.

n Deep sea fishing With the deep ocean just offshore, Bermuda offers world class fishing. Lots of pros are ready to take you out — among them, Baxter’s Reef Fishing, tel: 234-2963.


Babe Ruth golfed in Bermuda n Water sports You can rent everything from kayaks, Boston whalers and windsurfers to Hobie Cats and Jet Skis. Bermuda is the shipwreck capital of the Atlantic and a mecca for SCUBA divers. See for full listings See pages 43 & 44 for snorkelling and pages 46 & 47 for shipwrecks.

n Cycling Our coastal roads and the route of the old railway trail are great for bikers. You can hire bicycles at Smatt’s Cycle Livery, tel: 295-1180 and Oleander Cycles tel. 2950919. Will cost you roughly $50 a day.

n Bowling For a rainy day or a family evening out, have fun at Warwick Lanes in Warwick, tel: 236-5290.

Hartley’s Reef Safari Having some advantages over scuba diving and many over snorkeling, helmet diving is the safest and easiest way to explore the marine environment. The undersea walk was started by Bronson Hartley in the 1930s. Off Somerset, his son Gregory continues the tradition of training and taming fish in the wild. Hold Leroy the snapper or Barack the grouper and see Diana the angelfish swim through a hoop. The helmet works like a glass turned upside down. Your head stays dry, and you can safely wear glasses or contact lenses. Just breathe, walk and have fun. Tel: 234-2861.

Mini golf a big new attraction By Don Burgess | It’s nice to claim to be the best in the world, but not everyone can back it up. Hogan Lindgren designed a mini golf course in Denmark which drew international acclaim. But he says the one he designed right here on the island — Bermuda Fun Golf — is even better. “The world championship of mini golf was played there in Denmark,” he told us, “and they voted it the best mini golf course in the world — but this is best. Bermuda can be proud to say it has the best mini golf course in the world.” Owner John Burcher said opening up a fun golf course has been a dream of his for five years. The course features 18 holes; six are based on Mr Burcher’s favourite holes in Bermuda, six on famous holes in the US and the final six on holes in Scotland.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Internationally renowned designer Hogan Lindgren said Bermuda Fun Golf is probably the best mini golf course in the world.

Mr Lindgren said each hole is an homage to the original hole rather than an exact miniature: “But if you play the hole, you can recognize it from the original,” he says. Bermuda Fun Golf: E-mail: Tel: 400-PUTT guide 41


Photo by

Small but idyllic: John Smith’s Bay, in Smith’s Parish, is a perfect family beach.

Our glorious Top Ten Breathtaking beaches are Bermuda’s most enduring attraction, from aquamarine pools and sandy bays to the famous pink sand of the south shore. Pack your sunscreen, hats, towels and and use our guide to hit one or more of the island’s top ten beaches. 10 John Smith’s Bay: Off the beaten track in Smith’s parish, this popular locals’ beach is a little less crowded than the south shore destinations but still boasts soft sand and great swimming and snorkelling. The Harrington Hundreds grocery store is just a few minutes away by moped if you want to make your own picnic. L, B 9 Cooper’s Island Nature Reserve: A tiny peninsula on the eastern edge of the island, only recently opened to the

public, Cooper’s Island is actually a series of small coves connected by almost a mile of walking trails. The larger but less picturesque (it’s all relative) Clearwater Beach is right next door. B 8 West Whale Bay: Named for the humpback whales that migrate past Bermuda in April and May each year, this is as good a place for whale watching as anywhere on the island. The grassy cliff-top that borders this Southampton beach is a great spot for a picnic.

KEY: Bathrooms - B Rentals - R Café - C Lifeguard - L 42 guide


Sand glimmers pink at twilight 7 Snorkel Park: A great beach for families, out west in vibrant Dockyard. There are inflatables for the kids to rent, great snorkelling for dad and beach loungers for mum. L, B, C, R 6 Warwick Long Bay: To truly grasp the beauty of Bermuda’s south shore, walk the length of Warwick Long Bay and clamber across the rocks, or take a detour over the sand dunes to Jobson’s Cove and Chaplin Bay. On a quiet day you will see more Longtails than fellow tourists. B, R (seasonal) 5 Shelly Bay: A parents’ dream beach, Shelly Bay boasts warm, shallow water, a soft sandy bottom and backs on to a playground and sports field. A favourite for kids and novice swimmers — and close to the bus stop. C, B 4 Church Bay: Swim with shoals of brightly coloured parrot fish among the pristine coral reef that pierces the water just yards from shore at this small south shore bay, widely revered as Bermuda’s

best beach for snorkellers. R, B 3 Elbow Beach: A half-mile of white sand boasting stunning views of the Atlantic, Elbow Beach, in Paget, is a playground for joggers, kiteboarders, beach volleyball players and SCUBA divers. There’s even a shipwreck within swimming distance of shore. You can join in the fun or just hire a deckchair and sit back and watch. C, B, R 2 Tobacco Bay: Famous for its stunning volcanic rock formations — natural sculptures that emerge from the glassy water — this picturesque, sheltered cove is also a snorkellers’ dream. A short walk from the old town of St. George. C, B, R 1 Horseshoe Bay: A crescent of soft, pink sand, lapped by clear blue water, fringed by sand dunes and bordered by sandstone cliffs, garnished with swaying palms — Horseshoe, in Southampton Parish, is the a must for every Bermuda visitor. C, B, R, L n

Photo by

Ranked No.6, Warwick Long Bay on the south shore is stunningly beautiful. guide 43


File photo

Snorkellers don’t have to go deep to enjoy our beautiful coral reefs.

Grab some fins! By Amanda Dale | Bermuda is a chain of more than 150 islands, islets and rocks, the coralline limestone peaks of an ancient volcano. Here lie some of the most pristine coral reefs in the world, setting the stage for world class snorkelling. The beautiful but shallow reefs are responsible for more than 400 shipwrecks, spanning five centuries. You can expect to swim in waters of 24-30 degrees Celsius with a visibility of 25 metres in the summer months (May to October). You will find superb snorkelling all the way around this 21 square mile island, but here are some of the best spots.

n Church Bay, Southampton It can be a little tricky wading in across the rocks, so wait until you are almost waist-

44 guide

deep in the water before you put your fins on. You will be rewarded by the variety of fish in and around the boiler reefs.

n Pompano Beach Club, Southampton Most South Shore beaches offer excellent snorkelling just a short hop from the water’s edge. But if you are feeling adventurous, hire a kayak at Pompano Beach Club and paddle out to the outer raft across the sandbar. Tie up and swim out to the adjacent reef to experience some beautiful snorkelling.

n Tobacco Bay, St George’s This sheltered, sandy bay is ideal for families. Its rocky outcrops and ancient coral formations are buzzing with marine life.

n Snorkel Park, Royal Naval Dockyard The park has a sheltered bay and is ideal for families. Under the walls of the fort you will find hard and soft corals, juvenile fish and maritime relics. There are musket balls

You might see a spotted eagle ray dating to the nineteenth century and cast iron cannons, dating from 1550 to 1800.

n The Constellation Snorkelling and dive operators can take you to Western Blue Cut to see two of our most famous shipwrecks. The Constellation was the inspiration for Peter Benchley’s novel The Deep, which was made into a film in 1977. This 192 ft four-masted schooner (built in 1918) served as a cargo vessel in World War II and was en route from New York to Venezuela in 1943 when she was swept onto the reefs and sank, in ten metres of water. Her cargo included bags of cement, cases of Scotch whisky and thousands of drug ampoules, many containing opium and morphine. The ampoules have all been removed but you can still see other relics such as china cups, ceramic tiles and bottles.

n The Montana Just 15 metres from the Constellation lies the Montana, built to run the Union blockade


of the Confederate states in the US Civil war. The 236ft paddle wheel steamer sank in 1863 and now sits in three pieces with her bow relatively intact and her paddle wheels and forward boiler still discernable.

n The Vixen HMS Vixen was a Royal Navy gunboat, scuttled in 1896 to block a narrow channel off Daniels’s Head, Somerset, to prevent possible torpedo attacks. She sits in eight metres of water with a protruding bow and is home to many different species of fish. This popular site is accessible only by boat. Fed by the waters of the Gulf Stream, Bermuda has many of the fish species found in the western Atlantic and Caribbean, including parrotfish (stoplight, blue and midnight varieties), yellowtail snapper, coneys, bluehead and creole wrasse, rock beauties, the puddingwife, squirrelfish, foureye butterflyfish, damselfish, sergeant majors, trumpetfish and spiny lobster. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot a turtle. n guide 45


Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse was only the 37


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Atlantic Ocean

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Royal Naval Dockyard

Somerset Long Bay Mangrove


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Bay ’




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25. Beaumaris Castle 26. Collector 27. Iristo 28. Elda 29. Taunton 30. Eagle 31. Manilla Wreck 32. Cristobal Colon 33. Curlew


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Both the old and more recent wrecks, scattered throughout the 200-squaremile reef system that surrounds the island, are protected by law against any unauthorized interference. The more popular dive sites are easily accessed from the island by boat, with an average depth of between 30 17. Katherine 18. Pelinaion 19. Zovetto or Rita Zovetto 20. Sea Venture 21. Wychwood 22. Colonel William G. Ball 23. Richard P. Buck 24. Avenger


ng ay eB

46 guide


10. Minnie Breslauer 11. Pollockshields 12. Apollo 13. Kate 14. Grotto Bay Barges 15. Warwick 16. H.M.S. Cerberus


Drydock Ramona H.M.S. Vixen Minerva Hunters Galley Mary Celeste Virginia Merchant 8. King 9. Hermes

n Lo

There are some four hundred wrecks to be found off Bermuda. The earliest date from the first quarter of the 16th century when the island became a landmark for Spanish ships sailing back to Spain from the New World.


Elbow Beach Coral Beach 7 6 Surfside Beach 9 8 Marley Beach oe

Bermuda’s shipwrecks


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second cast iron lighthouse ever built. 31

Stories of the sea



Five must-visit Bermuda wrecks: 26


25 24 22 Toba cco B Achilles’ Bay ay Fort St. Catherine ST GEORGE’S 23 PARISH Martello Tower Coney Island Airport

Bailey's Bay

Crystal Caves


Castle Island Tucker's Town

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and 50 feet. Listed here are some of the better known wrecks, highlighted in the map above. Note that some wrecks are known by two, three or even four different names. For further information, visit the scuba diving pages on our website: 34. Madiana 35. Alert 36. San Pedro 37. Caraquet 38. Mark Antonio 39. Montana 40. Lartington 41. Constellation 42. Santa Ana 43. L’Herminie

n The Pelinaion (18) – This Greek steamer became a victim of WWII. The British had blacked out St. David’s lighthouse to stop the Germans from spying on Bermuda. But the ship crashed on the reef, where it still lies scattered. n The Cristobel Colon (32) — This Spanish luxury liner is the biggest of Bermuda’s wrecks at 499ft long. Its remains are spread across the North Shore reef. n The Hermes (9) – Extremely popular among divers as it is one of the few wrecks in Bermuda that remains fully intact. It lies in 80 foot of water off the South Shore. n The Constellation (41) – Jaws author Peter Benchley based his follow-up novel ‘The Deep’ around this wreck, which sank on the South Shore carrying a cargo of morphine and whisky to Venezuela during WWII.

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Fort Popple rwate r Bea ch Turt 19 le Ba y



Shell y HARRINGTON B Beaacy SOUND h Flatts Bridge Devil's Hole


Gate s’ Ba y Town of St. Georges Gates 21 Fort Smith’s 20 Island Fort Cunningham








44. Frenchman 45. Lord Amherst 46. Darlington 47. Mussel 48. San Antonio 49. Blanch King 50. Caesar 51. Airplane 52. North Carolina 53. Triton Ferry

n The H.M.S. Vixen (3) – If you don’t want to take on the challenge of scuba diving, the Vixen lies half submerged in shallow waters off Daniel’s Head, Somerset, and is easily accessible by snorkellers.

Local dive operators Triangle Diving, Grotto Bay, near the airport, Tel: 293-7319 Fantasea Bermuda, Albuoy’s Point, Hamilton, Tel: 236-1300 Blue Water Divers, Robinson’s Marina, Somerset, Tel: 234-1034 & Elbow Beach Hotel 232-2909

Don’t want to get wet? Visit the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute in Hamilton, the National Museum of Bermuda in Dockyard and the replica of the Deliverance in St. George’s. guide 47


iStock photo

Whether you’re a novice or a veteran, our expert fisherman will maximize your chances of scoring a spectacular catch.

You can land a beauty! For novice fishermen looking for an exciting family day out or experienced anglers hoping to hook a monster marlin, the deep ocean surrounding Bermuda is a fertile hunting ground. More than 20 charter firms offer day-trippers the chance to try their luck. Two volcanic sea-mounts, Challenger and Argus Banks, several miles offshore, are the focus of
attention for the small fleets of boats that idle out of pretty harbours every morning. Here, the powerful Atlantic currents push baitfish over steepling banks, attracting swarms of big-game fish. Schools of tuna and wahoo offer rich pickings for anglers of all abilities. Other fish often caught on deep sea trips include amberjack, mahi mahi, bonito, little tunny and rainbow runner. Local fishermen know their turf and will guide you to the best spots. Some will let you keep your catch, but they are not obliged to do so. Boats are equipped with rods, tackle, bait, life-saving gear and toilets. Typically you’ll supply your own refreshments. Charter prices for deep-sea outings, usually around $800 for a 48 guide

Many record gamefish are caught here. half-day or $1,000-$1,200 for the day (roughly $200 per person) cover gear, skipper and crew and if fish are biting, a couple of fresh tuna or wahoo steaks. Along with amateurs fishing for fun, our waters also attract big-time anglers hunting the biggest, baddest fish in the ocean – the wild blue marlin. Fierce, acrobatic and sometimes weighing in excess of 1,000lbs, marlin are the toughest fish to land — the Holy Grail for hardcore sports fishermen. Almost all marlin are released. For every fisherman that leaves with his Kodak moment there are more who travel home with nothing but memories and tall stories of the ones that got away. Either way — most leave firmly hooked on Bermuda. n For more on fishing charters visit:


Baxter’s Reef Fishing ‘Life on the ocean wave’ is guaranteed to be great fun with Capt. Baxter aboard his 32–foot Cape Islander ‘Ellen B’. Apply the catch and release method or take your catch home for supper! ‘Ellen B’ is well equipped to accommodate the whole family, complete with ample awning on hot days and complimentary sodas. The captain, with more than 20 years experience on the spectacular Barrier Reef, will display his expertise and show even the ‘amateurs’ how to catch a fish! You may enjoy a half-day or a full-day fishing. Parties of up to ten can be arranged. Capt. Baxter is always happy to oblige smaller parties by joining up with other small groups. Departing daily. Mangrove Bay public dock in Somerset. Tel: 234-2963 or 3349722. guide 49


Photo by Kageaki Smith

Explore the lush paths and wide vistas of Ferry Point Park near St George’s.

Our splendid National Parks By Lisa Greene | Our National Parks, spread over 108 sites and 1,609 acres, range from tiny, secluded gardens to long, beautiful beaches with pink sand. Some favourites of mine include the 16-mile long Railway Trail, Hog Bay Park, Spittal Pond Nature Reserve and Ferry Point Park. Many sections of the Trail provide an ‘off the beaten track’ experience for walkers, joggers or those on bicycles. A paved stretch runs for
nearly two miles from Somerset Village to Somerset Bridge, with glimpses into backyards and views of bays and the Great Sound. Paths off the trail lead to Gilbert Nature Reserve, the large Heydon Trust Estate (with its exquisite little chapel), panoramic Scaur Hill Fort, and down to the water’s edge. Rock cuts from the original railway, and thick vegetation, create welcome shady areas. Less than a mile further south along 50 guide

the Middle Road from Somerset Bridge is the 32-acre Hog Bay Park, one of our best birding locations. Walking paths skirt agricultural fields and meander through woodlands and hillsides before arriving at a secluded shoreline with spectacular views. Spittal Pond, a 64-acre reserve, on the south shore in Smith’s Parish, is our best birding spot. Here the rugged shoreline and woodland surrounding a brackish pond support a large variety of migratory and resident species. Clamber Continued on next page

Endemic plants include Bermuda moss


Discover glorious Cooper’s Island Cooper’s Island, located at the The Nature Reserve is heavily north-eastern tip of Bermuda, features wooded and supports a variety of a Nature Reserve and Wilderness Area habitats including salt-water marsh, and stands as a striking example of beach, dunes, rocky coastline, sea the restoration and protection of our grass beds, upland coastal and precious public land. uplands hillside. You might see turtles, As one of the island’s few remaining cahows, queen conch and tropicbirds open spaces, it acts (our emblematic as an important longtails). Healthy buffer zone for the sea grass beds found critically important here are critical to offshore Nature fish populations as Reserves, protecting they produce oxygen indigenous species of for fish and animals. plants, animals and There are five Photo by Kageaki Smith marine life. picturesque beaches Spectacular ocean views abound on This historical within the reserve; Cooper’s Island and biologically Turtle Bay, Long Bay, rich open space of approximately Well Bay, Fort Hill Bay and Soldiers Bay. 12 acres was handed back to the The entrance to Cooper’s Island Bermuda Government by NASA (who is gated and fenced and controlled ran a tracking station at the site) in vehicular access allows only September, 2001. wheelchairs, emergency and service The site has a colourful history. vehicles. Take a walk into this uniquely Cooper’s Island was first mentioned preserved site — it’s truly worth every when Governor Moore was faced with step. the problem of famine in 1612, caused by the accidental introduction of rats • Information supplied by the from a captured Spanish grain ship. Department of Parks. Please assist The rats destroyed all crops and stored them by adhering to Nature Reserve food. etiquette. Continued from previous page

over the rocks and look for Sally lightfoot crabs at the water’s edge or parrotfish feeding in surging water, and watch waves ‘boiling’ over reefs. Along this shore you can also find ‘Portuguese Rock’, bearing a carved inscription from visiting sailors dated 1543. Out east is Ferry Point Park, a scenic

64 acres perfect for walking, jogging or cycling, with historic features such as the Martello Tower, Ferry Island Fort and an old lime kiln. These are just a few of the many locations maintained by our Government’s Department of Parks; it’s your turn now to discover your favourite. n guide 51


Photo by Kageaki Smith

Our ferries are fast and comfortable.

You’ll find these facts useful during your stay Bermuda is unique in many ways and for those who have never visited before, it’s useful to have a little guidance on what makes our island tick. Here’s a handy list of things you might want to know. Information provided here is subject to change. For the latest, visit our website: The Bermuda Sun newspaper is also a useful resource: n Airlines Air Canada
 Reservations: Tel: 1-888-247-2262.
 Flight Info: Tel: 293-1777.
 American Airlines Tel: 1-800-433-7300. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1420
 AirTran 1-800-AIR-TRAN (247-8726) or 

52 guide

British Airways
 Reservations: Tel: 1-800-247-9297.
 Airport customer service: Tel: 293-1944.
 Continental Airlines
 Reservations: Tel: 1-800-231-0856.
 Flight Info: Tel: 293-3092.
 Delta Airlines
 Reservations: Tel: 1-800-221-1212.
 Flight Info: Tel: 1-800-325-1999.

Shark oil barometers forecast weather JETBLUE
 Tel: 1-800-JETBLUE (538-2583).
 Flight Info: Tel: 293-3608.
 U.S. Airways
 Reservations: Tel: 1-800-622-1015.
 Flight Info: Tel: 293-3073.
 WestJet Tel: 1-888-WESTJET (937-8538).

n Airport L.F. Wade International Airport (tel: 2932470) is located in St. George’s at the east end of the island. Allow 30 minutes from the city of Hamilton by taxi. Check-in two hours before departure.

n Banks Normally open from 9am to 4pm, Mon-Fri. There are many ATMs across the island. ATMs dispense Bermuda dollars which are tied at par with US dollars.

n Buses All bus routes serving Hamilton arrive


and leave the Bus Terminal on Washington Street. (Refer to number 48 on the Hamilton map on page 24. See page 57 for schedule). Cash fares require exact change. Dollar bills are not accepted. Adult cash fare is $3 up to 3 zones, $4.50 for longer journeys. Tokens are $2.50 for 3 zone trips and $4 for longer trips. Transportation passes are available: one-day pass $12, two days $20, three days $28, four days $35, seven days $45 or one month, $55. For children (aged 5-16) cash fare is $2 and transportation passes range from $6 per day up to $22.50 for seven days. Children under five ride free. Tokens, tickets and passes can be used on buses or ferries and can be bought at the ferry terminal, the central bus terminal, hotels, post offices and the Dockyard Visitor Information Centre. (The fares listed here, correct at press time, are subject to change). Tel: 292-3851 •

GOVER NMENT OF B ER M U DA Minis tr y of Finance Bermuda Post Office

The Bermuda Post Office is pleased to offer “The 60th Anniversary of Queen Elizabeth II’s Coronation”, a series of six stamps. These stamps will be released on 21 February 2013. First Day Cover sets $5.50, cost per set $3.10, FDC souvenir sheet $4.00, souvenir sheet $2.50. Available at the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau.


Queen Elizabeth II’s Coronation

For more information please e-mail guide 53


Topless sunbathing is against the n Business Hours Stores normally open from 9am to 5pm Monday to Saturday. Many grocery stores open 1-5pm on Sunday, most other stores are closed on Sundays.

n Cars No car rentals are available in Bermuda but you can rent scooters and pedal bikes.

n Consulate The U.S. Consulate is located on Crown Hill, 16 Middle Road, Devonshire, tel: 295-1342. Open Mon to Fri 8am - 4:30pm. Consular services are provided on an appointment basis only. For details, visit the Consulate’s website: or contact For after-hours life or death emergencies for American citizens only, contact the duty officer at (441) 335-3828. • Honorary Consuls for other countries are also represented in Bermuda — see the telephone directory for listings.

n Communications Bermuda’s well-developed telecommunications infrastructure provides modern telephone, fax, Internet, cellular and cellularroaming services.

n Country Code U.S. & Canada — dial 1 plus area code plus no. 
 U.K. — dial 011 plus 44 plus area code plus no. 
 Caribbean — dial 1 plus area code plus seven digits.

n Currency & Credit Cards The Bermuda dollar is equal in value to the U.S. dollar; both are legal tender. Traveller’s cheques and credit cards are accepted at most shops, restaurants and hotels.

n Dress Code The dress code in Bermuda is conservative. Bathing suits and bare chests are not acceptable, except (for men) at beaches and pools. Casual wear is acceptable in

54 guide


law here in Bermuda restaurants at lunchtime. Some upscale restaurants require men to wear a jacket in the evening. Check the dress requirements when making reservations.

n Emergency Call 911 and specify whether you need police, the fire service or an ambulance.

n Etiquette It is customary to greet islanders with a ‘good morning’, ‘good afternoon’ or ‘good evening’ — Bermuda prides herself on civility.

n Ferries All ferries depart from the terminal on Front Street, Hamilton. Regular ferries
cross Hamilton Harbour and faster catamarans visit Somerset, Dockyard and, and in the summer months, St. George’s. Transportation tickets, tokens and passes valid for buses and ferries are available at locations including the ferry terminal, bus terminal, post offices and hotels. Cash is not accepted on the ferries. Scooters are allowed on some routes.

n Health No inoculations are required for Bermuda. There are no poisonous insects or mammals but be wary of the Portuguese manof-war jellyfish that carries a painful sting. Guard against sunstroke and sunburn with hats, sunblock and plenty of water.

n Hospital King Edward VII Memorial Hospital (tel. 2362345) is a large, first-rate facility owned and operated by the Bermuda Government and located on Point Finger Road in Paget Parish. An associate of the American Hospital Association. Airlifts can be arranged to the U.S. or Canada.

n Internet Most hotels and many guest houses provide Internet access. Also, there are a handful of locations where you can go online in the city of Hamilton including the Bermuda

Stay in touch Going on holiday is more fun when you can share it with the ones you love! Send messages, post pictures, and talk to your friends and family back home while you perfect your tan on our pink sand beaches. If you are here for a short trip, roaming is your best option. Choose to roam with the network trusted by over 11 million people in 31 countries: Digicel. If your phone does not automatically connect to the Digicel network, you can set it up manually using your network options in a few short steps. If you are spending more than few days on our lovely island, you may consider purchasing a local prepaid SIM card to limit your roaming charges. Digicel prepaid SIM cards are available in both Digicel stores in Hamilton (Church Street and Court Street) and in over 100 dealer locations across the island. If you have a BlackBerry device, you may activate a temporary data plan on your Digicel prepaid SIM card. For more information, please visit or call us at +1 441 500 5000. Library on Queen Street and the Main Post Office on Parliament Street, where access is free. Public Internet access is also available in St. George’s and Dockyard. Many cafes provide wi-fi access to customers.

n Mail The General Post Office is located at 56 Church Street Hamilton (tel: 297-7893), with 12 sub-offices islandwide. Airmail leaves and arrives daily. Rates for airmail postcards to North America are 70¢; Europe 80¢; Africa, Asia, Australia and New Zealand 90¢. guide 55


We have ample rainfall but no

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Renting a scooter is fun but can be tricky if bikes are new to you. Be sure you can handle it before you leave the rental shop. A road accident would ruin your trip.

n Nightlife See pages 81-83 and 94-95

spaces including restaurants, bars, shops, theatres or any enclosed workspaces.

n Public Holidays 2013

n Taxis

Bermuda Day |  Friday, May 24
 National Heroes’ Day  |  Monday, June 17
 Emancipation Day  (Cup Match, day one) |  Thursday, August 1
 Somers Day (Cup Match, day two) |  Friday, August 2
 Labour Day  |  Monday, September 2
 Remembrance Day  |  Monday, November 11
 Christmas Day  |  Wednesday, December 25
 Boxing Day  |  Thursday, December 26

Cabs are safe and comfortable. Rates are controlled by law at $6.40 for the first mile and $2.25 for each additional mile for 1-4 passengers. Rates increase after midnight, Sundays and public holidays with a 25% surcharge for 1-4 passengers and a 50% surcharge for 5-6 passengers. Taxis may also be hired for sightseeing tours at $40 per hour with a minimum of 3 hours.

n Time Differences

Churches are ubiquitous here. Anglican, Catholic, African Methodist Episcopal and Seventh Day Adventist are among the major faiths. See the church listings in Friday’s Bermuda Sun newspaper.

New York — one hour behind Bermuda
 Los Angeles — four hours behind 
 London — four hours ahead 
 Toronto — one hour behind 
 Daylight Savings Time comes into effect from the second Sunday in March through to the first Sunday in November.

n Scooters

n Tipping

You can rent scooters by the day or week, if you are 18 or older. Helmets, provided by the rental companies, are mandatory.

In most cases, a service charge or gratuity has been added to the bill. Where the gratuity has not been added, 15% is about right.

n Smoking

n TV/Radio/media

Smoking is banned from all enclosed public

Three main local channels screen a nightly

n Religion

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rivers or lakes news bulletin —  VSB (channel 11), ZBM (9) 
and ZFB (7). A government station, CITV, is on channel 2 and there’s a small handful of local radio stations. The quality of local programming varies considerably. The Bermuda Sun, which publishes this guide, provides news seven days a week on its website and publishes a newspaper on Wednesdays and Fridays.

n Water Tap water is safe to drink, unless you are instructed otherwise. Bermuda has no rivers, streams or reservoirs; all our water comes from rain or wells. Bermuda roofs are painted with a limestone wash that purifies the water as it trickles down into underground tanks. Electric pumps send the water up to the tap.

n Weather Bermuda’s sub-tropical climate is generally mild and humid, but summer and winter temperatures vary considerably. The average annual temperature is 76ºF. Monthly averages: January 65ºF, water 66ºF; April 67ºF, water 68ºF; July 80ºF, water 81ºF; October 75ºF,

water 76ºF. In an average year we see rain on 171 days and sunshine on 200 days.

n Wildlife One of our most intriguing creatures is the common whistling frog. Their ‘gleep-gleep’ chorus is particularly vigorous after rainfall on warm evenings and you’ll be amazed that a frog little bigger than your thumbnail can be so audible. Easier to spot on wet evenings are enormous cane toads, introduced to control cockroaches. Birds are plentiful; about 375 species have been recorded in Bermuda and 20 are resident. There are hundreds of feral cats and feral chickens – but no feral dogs. We have a few rats, of course, but no snakes. Spiders are abundant but generally harmless. The occasional poisonous spider arrives on imported lumber but they rarely bother people. Mosquitoes aren’t a problem and there are few bugs to worry about. Try to avoid the Portuguese man-o-war, a purple jellyfish that sports long tentacles and causes a painful sting. Sharks are rare in Bermuda waters.


Airport Aquarium Belmont Hotel Botanical Gardens Caves (Crystal and Leamington) Dockyard Elbow Beach Gibbs Hill Lighthouse Grotto Bay Hotel Horseshoe Bay Beach Hospital Mangrove Bay (Somerset) National Museum of Bermuda Bermuda Perfumery John Smith’s Bay Beach Fairmont Southampton Resort Town of St. George

1, 3, 10, 11 10 11 8 1, 2, 7 1, 3 7, 8 2, 7 7 1, 3, 10, 11 7 1, 2, 7 7, 8 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11 1 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11

Bus Schedule Number

Fare Leaving Hamilton’s Central Zone Bus Terminal (time past the hour) 14 00 3 00 3 00 3 00 14 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 14 00 14 00 3 3 00 14 00

15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30

45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 guide 57


Marry him in Bermuda By Amanda Dale | Whether you want to celebrate your wedding on a private beach, a yacht or in a spectacular cave, Bermuda has it all. Whatever the setting, the island is one of the most romantic places in the world in which to say ‘I do’. With stunning backdrops of pink sand beaches, a turquoise ocean and lush flora and fauna, you can be sure that your big day will be colourful, vibrant and memorable. More than half of all marriages in Bermuda involve couples from overseas. The island’s hotels can offer you a destination wedding with a difference, and most have packages which include the reception and honeymoon accommodation. If you are passionate about the environment, the Fairmont Southampton Resort offers Eco-Chic Weddings on a private beach with an organic wedding cake and the chance to plant your own Bermuda Cedar tree. 58 guide

Our Moon Gates originated in China You can tie the knot under a moongate overlooking the waterfront at the Fairmont Hamilton Princess. Alternatively, Cambridge Beaches Resort & Spa offers Magical Sunset Weddings on a private beach. If you want to declare your commitment overlooking the ocean, The Reefs Resort & Club has a wooden deck above the spectacular South Shore. Or for something completely different, why not hold your reception among the ancient limestone formations of Grotto Bay Beach & Tennis Club’s caves, in an Exotic Cave Wedding? ‘Bermuda’s celebration yacht’ — the UberVida catamaran, can also provide an exclusive setting amid the aquamarine waters of Paradise Lakes. On such a beautiful island as Bermuda, choosing your venue is probably going to be your toughest decision. Aside from stunning beaches, there are also scenic locations with commanding views, such as Gibbs Hill Lighthouse and the Commissioner’s House at Dockyard. The Bermuda National Trust can also provide historic houses and elegant gardens in which to hold your nuptials. When it comes to tradition,


Photo by Kelly Winfield

Bermudians usually have two wedding cakes. The bride has a fruit cake with silver icing, to symbolize a fruitful marriage, while the groom has a pound cake with gold icing, to bring prosperity. A Bermuda Cedar sapling is placed on top of the bride’s cake and the couple will plant this in a secret location, to symbolize the growth of their bond and love.

weddings portraits events 300-5005 / 536-9843 guide 59


To marry here you will need two

Your ‘fairytale’ wedding car If you want a classic, timeless wedding, a vintage car will set the wheels in motion. In Bermuda you can hire the Branford Elite, an elegant touring car that captures the romance and style of the Jazz Age. Based on the classic Ford Model A (1928-31), the Branford Elite was custom-built in the UK and has been imported by ‘Bermudaful Moments’. Elizabeth Mayne and Roberta Pachai are the women behind the enterprise. “This car has that vintage, classic look,” Mrs Mayne told us, “and we will also have a chauffeur dressed for the occasion, in suit and cap.” Bermudaful Moments will also decorate the vehicle in ribbons and rosettes to reflect your bridal party’s colour scheme. The car’s cream leather seats take up to six passengers and the roof hood folds down to allow the bride and groom to be visible. Ms Pachai said: “This is a fairytale wedding car. It will look glamorous and beautiful on your wedding photos.”

It is also considered good luck for the couple to kiss under a moongate. Arranging a wedding in Bermuda is easier than you might think. You just need to complete a Notice of Intended Marriage and post this back to the Registrar General, with a $341 fee. The marriage license will be valid for three months and you just need two witnesses over-18 to attend the service. If you need help in organizing the wedding, the island has an abundance of talented wedding consultants, photographers, florists, caterers, jewellers and live entertainers. The Department of Tourism can also offer you a financial incentive. Its ‘So Much More Rewards’ programme provides cash rewards for each overseas visitor you bring to the island, for a party of 15 or more. The rewards range from $25-50 per person, depending on numbers. So,

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witnesses who are over 18


if 30 guests attended your wedding you could earn $900 towards your celebrations. For more information go to: www.

For more details on getting married in Bermuda, see: www.gotobermuda. com/specialty-travel/weddings To contact the UberVida, e-mail

Contact Liz: 333-5886 or Roberta: 505-1419 guide 61


Postcards from the past These postcards from the 1930s and ‘40s paint a charming picture of the Bermuda of yesteryear. Writer Gill Outerbridge helps bring them to life by penning imaginary messages from a besotted visitor.

Postcards from

Dear Martha, at I am here in I cannot believe th a paradise! Bermuda! It is such a was ud rm The voyage to Be cked do ip sh r ou exciting and rked ba sem di we — y in the cit friends y M t! right on Front Stree my to ge ia rr ca conveyed me by use le op pe al loc e Th guesthouse. . rts ca ey nk bicycles and little do hel Et , ter sis g in Your liv

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the collection

ward of Stephen Hay

Dear Martha, e horseracing Can you believe they hav m Front Street to fro in tra the here? We took the Race Track. Shelly Bay and walked to locals cheering of There was a huge crowd white coral the d un aro and the horses tore shillings on one track. I won a bet of four carriage driver to of the races. I gave it to a in home! tra take us back to catch the

Dear Martha, There is a wonderful litt le train here that runs throug h the islands and makes 40 stops along the way. We alight ed near Devils Hole and the re were dozens of carriages waiting to collect us. Th ere you get to ‘fish’ with a line but no hook. The pool is full of giant fish and turtles and I tho ught for sure I could haul a hug e snapper right up but he let go and fell back with a splash !

Dear Martha, Today we set off at dawn for an expedi tion to St George’s. We tro tted along white co ral roads shaded with cedar trees with vistas of glorious blue and turquoise water in the little bays and coves. We crossed th e Causeway which had to be rebuilt after a hurr icane destroyed it. Before it was built you had to drive the carria ge onto a barge to be pulled across to St George’ s! Imagine! guide 63


Photo by Kageaki Smith

The Irish Linen Shop — which specializes in luxury goods from all over the world — is one of Front Street’s colourful, landmark stores.

Take home quality items that will last You’ve already proved you have good taste by choosing to visit Bermuda so it’s fitting that our stores exude quality. There are bargains to be had — you’ll find hefty price differentials with the U.S. on jewellery, watches, perfume, silverware, porcelain and crystal. And you’ll enjoy additional relief at the cash register — there’s no sales tax. Many stores are in the City of Hamilton, but the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard, on the western tip of the island, boasts quality gift stores and boutique shops. And the historic town of St. George’s — at the east end of Bermuda — also has a lively shopping scene. Goods made here or produced exclusively for local stores include pottery, jewellery, paintings and prints, pottery, rum, honey, condiments, cedar ware, Bermuda shorts, scarves, fragrances and pillows. Browse the following listings for details. 64 guide

Bermuda The Original

For over 30 years the Original Bermuda Collection has featured timeless designs based on the island’s unique flora, fauna, landmarks and traditions. This collection of locally made treasures will serve as a lovely remembrance of your “Bermuda Experience”. These original, 18 karat gold pieces are hand crafted in Bermuda and sold exclusively by Astwood Dickinson.


83-85 Front Street, Hamilton, Bermuda 441.292.5805

go shopping

Bermuda Triangle: One of the world’s

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Attention to detail helps jewellers Astwood Dickinson to sustain en excellent reputation.

Astwood Dickinson Home of the Original Bermuda Collection 18 kt Gold Jewellery handmade in Bermuda. Since 1904, Astwood Dickinson has built an outstanding reputation as the finest

jewellery store in Bermuda. As exclusive agents for the world’s most prestigious jewellery collections and watches, Astwood Dickinson is the perfect place to find a lasting reminder of your Bermuda experience. In our on-site workshop we handcraft the Original Bermuda Collection. Here you will find beautiful 18 kt gold designs of the island’s unique flora, fauna, landmarks and traditions that make an everlasting remembrance of your Bermuda vacation. The Original Bermuda Collection is also available online at . Astwood Dickinson also offers exclusive jewellery collections from Tiffany & Co., Hearts on Fire, Links of London and Baccarat. Our watch brands include Patek Philippe, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, OMEGA, TAG Heuer, Gucci, and Tissot. 83-85 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-5805 Walker Arcade Boutique, Front Street, Hamilton.  Tel: 292-4247

HERA Boutique


Bermuda’s newest Boutique for Ladies featuring classic and stylish European and American-made clothing and accessories. Tel. 441.232 .4372 email Face Book heraboutiquebermuda WeB address The Old Cellar Walker Arcade 47 Front Street Hamilton, Bermuda HM 11

sTore hours:

mon. ClOSEd | Tues. 10AM -5pM Wed. 10AM- 4pM | Thurs. 10AM- 5pM Fri. 10AM- 5pM | saT. 10 AM -5pM sunday - ClOSEd arrangemenTs may Be made For privaTe shopping evenTs. appoinTmenTs Welcomed ouTside oF sTore hours

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Bermuda’s latest boutique features classic, but stylish, quality merchandise for the Ladies (sizes 6 to 18). Our collections speak to women of all ages with their updated yet understated appeal. Additionally, selections from Europe and North America are chosen for their versatility and timeless practicality. Our European vendors hail from the UK, Portugal, Italy and Germany (Betty Barclay). Our North American labels, which are not available in department stores, include paperwhite, A’NUE LIGNE, J’Envie and Elliot Lauren, proudly Made In the USA! Visit Hera Boutique today, you’ll be glad you did! Old Cellar, 47 Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 232 4372 between 10am & 5pm.

most heavily-sailed shipping lanes

go shopping

Photo by Kageaki Smith

For true local fragrances such as Bermuda Blue & Bermuda Breeze, head to Gibbons Company on Reid Street, one of our best-loved department stores.

Bermuda Blue & Bermuda Breeze Take in the sea air, the aroma of natural fruits & flowers all around us......Bermuda Blue and Bermuda Breeze fragrances embrace much that is uniquely Bermuda. Bermuda Blue delicately captures the natural citrus, jasmine and lotus in the air with a nuance of crisp sea spray. Bermuda Breeze hints more of natural fruits, such as wild berries & mandarin, with a touch of jasmine – creating a lovely fruity floral. Packaging reflects the brilliant blues and greens of the local water, the immense blue sky, amid a pink sandy beach - capturing the essence of this beautiful island paradise. Take home a piece of Bermuda. Take home Bermuda Blue and Bermuda Breeze. Available through select stores across the Island and on-line including: Gibbons Company, Reid St., Hamilton Peniston Brown, St. George

Perfume Shop, Dockyard Carole Holding Shops – Southampton Fairmont & Dockyard Brown & Co., Front St., Hamilton A.S. Cooper, Front St., Hamilton, branch and hotel stores Distributed by P.D.L. Limited Tel: (441) 292-1710

The Irish Linen Shop
 Step inside our historic cottage shop and be inspired! Luxury products from all over the world have been an Irish Linen Shop trademark for over 60 years. Our exquisite table linen collection from Le Jacquard Francais, Bodrum, Settings by Mona, and Karen Lee Ballard along with our amazing selection of table accessories from Deborah Rhodes and Dransfield and Ross will create an unforgettable table setting. Hand embroidered linen from Madeira and double damask from Ireland are still time-honoured traditions at The Irish Linen Shop. guide 67

go shopping

Locally made products are ‘Bermudiana’

Photo by Kageaki Smith

For that exquisite and unique gift, visit the Bermuda Perfumery in St George’s.

Beautiful home fragrances from Antica Farmacista, Dayna Decker, Lafco and the oldest candle maker in France, Cire Trudon will delight your senses. Don’t stop until you experience our bath and body products from Baudelaire and Rain of South Africa. You deserve it!
 Wait: The world of Michael Aram and Mariposa are the perfect solution when searching for a gift that will delight the recipient for years.
Our home décor selections from Zentique, Oomph, and Roost will transform your home and your outlook. 
 You’ll love the children’s boutique at The Irish Linen Shop. It’s the place to find beautiful hand smocked dresses from Chantal and the classic styles of Papo d’Anjo from Portugal. Later, dream away on the finest Egyptian cotton bedding from Yves Delorme, Sferra, Matouk, Peter Reed and Dans Nos Maisons. It’s all here, waiting for you at The Irish Linen Shop, where fine living begins.
31 Front Street, Hamilton.  Tel:  295-4089; Fax:  295-6552; e-mail:

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The Bermuda Perfumery The Bermuda Perfumery is located at historical Stewart Hall in the heart of St. George’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since 1928, The Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing fine ladies and gentlemen’s fragrances under the brand Lili Bermuda. All the perfumes are made on premises at Stewart Hall. The Perfumery welcomes visitors for a free tour of its operations and to sample its unique fragrances. Lili Bermuda loves creating new and original fragrances. Its latest creation, “Alegria”, which means “Joy” in Portuguese, is celebration of the Bermudian woman: she is modern, international and elegant. Alegria is a white chypre fragrance with a heart of frangipani, Bermuda Cedar, tuberose, patchouli and magnolia. The Perfumery’s fragrance collection also includes exclusive creations inspired by our beautiful Island. Modern women will love Coral, Pink, and Lily, and men will not

…So much more than juSt LinenS!

Home Décor Fine GiFts LiFe’s Luxuries obviously you have great taste! 31 Front Street, Hamilton HM 11, Bermuda Hours: Monday-Saturday 10:00-6:00 P.M.

Tel: 441-295-4089

go shopping

Our city covers only 80 acres

Photo by Kageaki Smith

There’s an impressive range of quality, Bermuda themed gifts at The Island Shop on Queen Street.

want to leave Bermuda without a bottle of our famous fragrances 32° North and 64° West. The “Water Collection”, casual and unisex, will please the affluent and international traveler. The Perfumery is passionate about the art of perfume making and continues to innovate by using both traditional and modern techniques to produce exceptional perfumes. You are welcome to visit for a free tour of their operations and to sample their exclusive and rare perfumes. The Bermuda Perfumery, Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street, St. George’s GE 05 Tel: 293-0627. Fax: 293-8810 1-800-527-8213 (toll free in US/Canada) Open Monday to Saturday 9:00am to 5:00pm

The Island Shop The Island Shop features exclusive and original hand-painted ceramics by Barbara

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Finsness that capture the colourful architectural and natural features of Bermuda. There are fine linens that feature her original embroidered designs and a huge array of different gift items. The Island Shop is a ‘must visit’ during your stay for gift selections found nowhere else in the world! They will gift-wrap or mail your purchases if desired. Check out their online store at Winner of ‘The Best in Bermuda’ in retail giftware by The Bermudian magazine. Barbara features her original and printed artwork in the upper gallery of her Front Street store, and some can also be seen in her Southampton and St. George’s locations. Queen Street, Hamilton, tel: 292-5292. Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-11514 Fairmont Hotel, Southampton, tel: 238-5999

go shopping

U.S. dollars can be used in Bermuda

Bermuda Post Office Every year the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau compiles a collection of commemoratives and arranges them into an attractive presentation package. This collection continues the Bermuda Post Office’s efforts to portray all facets of Bermuda’s heritage, culture and history. The Bermuda Philatelic Bureau also services orders for current issues of Bermuda’s commemorative and definitive stamps and, for the convenience of collectors, provides a standing order account service with a minimum deposit of thirty dollars. In addition, they maintain a mailing list to provide details of new stamp releases to customers. 56 Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 297-7807

The Phoenix Stores With five full-service pharmacies, Phoenix

Stores have been caring for customers and assisting with their health care needs for more than 100 years. Should you need answers to health related questions whilst you are on vacation, visit one of their Phoenix pharmacists. Emergency prescriptions are dispensed while you wait and each store carries an extensive range of over-the-counter medications. The stores also carry a wide range of health and beauty products, local and foreign newspapers and magazines, phone cards and postcards, etc. Visit one of their locations: Woodbourne Chemist, Clarendon Pharmacy, Collector’s Hill Apothecary, Phoenix Centre, Paget Pharmacy and Dockyard Pharmacy for all your essentials. All stores are open Monday to Saturday; three stores are also open on Sundays and holidays. Tel: 295-3838

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Many of the main stores in Hamilton are within easy reach of one another by foot. Shoppers are seen here on Reid Street, which runs parallel to Front Street.

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Crissons is ‘guarded’ by two bronze lions


Photo by Kageaki Smith

Impeccable personal service has been a hallmark of Crisson Jewellers for many years.

Crisson Jewellers Crisson Jewellers embodies Bermuda’s finest and most cherished traditions. 
A family business since 1922, the Crisson name is synonymous with quality and value. The fabulous array of jewellery and watches reflect the style, sophistication and taste of our discerning customers. When you explore our exciting collections, we are sure you will agree that a visit to Crisson is the crowning moment of your Bermuda shopping experience. Along with the wonderfully eclectic collection of hand-selected pieces from all parts of the world, Crisson are Bermuda’s exclusive source for famous designers including David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, John Hardy, Kabana, Nanis, Pandora, Marah Largo Larimar, and Rebecca . As for diamonds of distinction, Crisson has Bermuda’s largest collection of spectacular cuts from Cento, Memoire, A. Jaffe and Endless Diamonds. When it comes to timepieces, Crisson

is definitely the place! Crisson are the 
officially authorised Rolex retailers in Bermuda. You will also find Tag Heuer, Ebel, Raymond Weil, Movado, Tudor, Philip Stein, Christian Dior, Frederique Constant and Fendi. There are also collections from Seiko, Swiss Army, Citizen, Casio, Luminox, Fruitz, Rotary, Guess and Michael Kors. Our main store is on Front Street in Hamilton, with another on Queen Street. There’s also a store in the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard. If you are staying in one of Bermuda’s major Hotels, you’ll find a Crisson store there as well. Each of these boutique-style stores features pieces selected from our main collections in Hamilton. The shopping experience is relaxed and intimate, and the quality, value and prices are the same whichever store you choose to visit. Crisson Jewellers, 55 Front Street & 16 Queen Street, Hamilton; Clocktower Mall, Dockyard, and all major hotels. 
Tel: 2952351 • • guide 73

island style

Photo courtesy Bermuda Dept. of Tourism

Bermuda shorts are de rigueur among the island’s businessmen, among others.

Bermuda shorts: A brief history By SIMON JONES | It’s not everywhere in the world a man can walk down

the street in pink shorts and matching knee-high socks and hold his head high. But in Bermuda, no one bats an eyelid when such colourful dressers wend their way around town. Bermuda shorts are a national uniform. They come in all colours, from salmon pink to sunshine yellow. And they are accompanied by a pair of long socks, called Bermuda hose, pulled up to the knee. Add a navy blazer, a tie and smart shoes and you have standard business attire here in the semi-tropics. Don’t be fooled by the bright colours – Bermuda shorts are serious stuff. We once passed a law that states they should not be shorter than six inches above the knee. 74 guide

Wear tasselled loafers with your shorts. Bermuda shorts trace their origins to the British Army; soldiers sported cutoff trousers to combat the tropical and desert climates they were sent to. They were created at the turn of the 20th century by office workers in London, whose job it was to make sure the forces were suitably attired in farflung corners of the Empire. The look caught on and by the 1950s, most Bermudian men were happy to don a pair of comfortable shorts for work. Although they are Bermuda shorts by name, they are not made here; typically they’re imported from the United States. They make terrific gifts and/or mementos and who knows — you might start a trend in your hometown. The largest selection of Bermuda shorts can be found at the English

what’s on island style

When British soldiers wore shorts on the battlefields of North Africa during WWII, little did they know the look would become fashionable in far off Bermuda.

Sports Shop, which has several branches islandwide. Its flagship store is at 49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672. n

Bermuda’s leading retailer of exclusive, Bermuda-designed resort wear for men, women and children.

Mangrove Bay, Somerset, tel: 234-0770 49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672 Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-0142 guide 75


PhotoS by Kageaki Smith

Onion Jack’s Trading Post not only has a broad range of T-shirts, but also lots of caps and other items that make handy souvenirs or gifts.

A Bermuda T-shirt is a must-have souvenir By Terri mello | It’s on every visitor’s shopping list — a souvenir Bermuda T-shirt. After all, it’s the easiest way to tell the world you’ve paid a visit to paradise. And with our help, you can be sure Uncle Hank and little niece Nicole will be thanking you profusely for that perfect shirt you found. Whether you’re shopping for a co-worker, relative or yourself, choices abound in stores across the island. But to make your life easier we’ve chosen a few of our favourite places to find great Bermuda T-shirts. If you’ve only got time to visit one store, Onion Jack’s Trading Post, handily located in the middle of Hamilton’s Front Street, might just take care of all your needs. Here you’ll find a large array of shirts in all sizes (up to 5XL), styles and colours. They stock simple and classy, kitschy and 76 guide


Hamilton became our capital in 1815.

cute, T-shirts with Bermuda maps, storefront. Here you’ll find a dazzling local flowers and birds, Bermuda collection of just about any kind of cottages and even some which Bermuda T-shirt you could possibly proclaim that you’ve want. survived the Bermuda A.S. Cooper is a Triangle. And they department store with cater to all age groups. locations in Hamilton Onion Jack’s VP and Dockyard, where Irene Cardwell says the you’ll find an array of biggest seller is the quality Bermuda T-shirts, store’s signature logo ranging from simple and T-shirt. “People like it classy to colourful and because it’s so unique,” cute. she told us. Be sure to Brown & Co., on Front check out the bargain Street in Hamilton, has bins, which offer shirts a range of shirt styles One of the colourful designs for as little as $6.95. bearing a Bermuda logo, available at Onion Jack’s. You can’t miss with bright selections Riihiluoma’s Flying Colours on Queen for children and T-shirts boldly stating Street. It’s a two-storey souvenir shop ‘Life is always better in Bermuda’. And that sports an array of flags across its who are we to disagree? n

10% discount on purchases over $10 on presentation of this ad. Not valid for tobacco products, parking vouchers, phone cards or other specials. guide 77

made in bermuda Artist draws from nature to craft unique jewellery Bermudian artist Alexandra Mosher draws from the island’s natural beauty to create extraordinary and unique pieces of jewellery. She incorporates our pink coral sand, sterling silver and gold into her handcrafted designs. “I developed a love for craft at a very young age,” she told us, “often creating sculptures out of found objects.” Alexandra studied jewellery design

at The Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and launched her line in 2005. Her work is elegant, highly collectible and available island wide at AS Cooper, Bermuda Arts Centre in Dockyard, and the Alexandra Mosher Studio Gallery in the Washington Mall, Hamilton. Tel: 236-9009. Email Alexandra also ships internationally: see n

art jewellery inspired by Bermuda’s beauty Washington Mall West, Reid Street, Hamilton ¦ 441-236-9009

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made in bermuda Bermuda an inspiration for handcrafted designs By Lynn Morrell | As an artist I try to capture the beauty of what delights me. My lovely little island is a constant source of inspiration for my jewellery: Longtails swooping over the south shore, the tiny whistling frog outside my kitchen door, my grandmother’s cottage. I trained in a fine jewellery workshop

with several master goldsmiths, one ofwhom is now my husband. I work mainly in sterling silver as I love to wear it myself and the stones I choose are mostly semiprecious and cabochon cut. My jewellery is simple, clean-lined and very easy to wear. It can be found at The Craft Market in Dockyard and The Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard. n guide 79

made in bermuda Jewellery designer inspired by our beautiful beaches Jacquie Lohan has been designing and making jewellery since her teens, having studied in her native Canada. She opened Atlantic Jewellery Studio 12 years ago and won Best of Bermuda Gold Awards in 2005 and 2008. Her work was even featured on a local postage stamp. Jacquie’s Oceania Collection features local beach glass in many colours, pink coral and tiny seashells from Bermuda’s

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stunning beaches, set in sterling silver. The glass is treated like a gemstone and then mixed with precious stones, semi- precious gemstones and pearls. Jacquie crafts both trendy and classic designs; some are bold, others sexy and quite feminine. “There is truly something for everyone” she says. “Bermuda’s beaches offer me inspiration in a vast array of shapes and colours.” n


Photo by Kageaki Smith

Whether it’s just for cocktails or for dinner, too, classy Port O’Call on Front Street is warm and welcoming.

Enjoy a cocktail or two By SARAH LAGAN | It’s not as wild

as New Orleans, as uninhibited as Jamaica or as high octane as Vegas, but Bermuda’s nightlife is fun, friendly — and varied. There’s a good choice of laid back pubs and upscale bars and some hotels also offer live music and dancing. Most restaurants close well before midnight — but ask a local and they’ll point you to a take-out joint if you need a fried food fix in the early hours. Looking for strip clubs or casinos? Not here. Though decorum’s a watchword, we do know how to let our hair down at night. Here’s our guide to some of the some of the best spots: In the heart of Hamilton, the Hog Penny is the top spot for live, local bands. Enjoy rock covers by house

musician Will Black, who does a good Bon Jovi impression. From 10pm onwards the DJs take over to keep the party pumping. The Pickled Onion on Front Street has live music every night in the summer plus open mic sessions, when everyone can join in the fun. A mixed crowd for the live music gives way to younger, party people after 10pm who take to the dance floor with DJs spinning everything from pop, rock, hip hop and R&B. When you need a little fresh air there are great views from the balcony overlooking Hamilton Harbour. Classy Port O’ Call, also on Front Street, typically draws more mature business professionals, especially at Happy Hour on Fridays. It serves the best French fries in Bermuda and has a chic and yet welcoming atmosphere. guide 81


Entertainment news in Friday’s Bermuda Sun

Food and drinks are moderately priced and service is excellent. Nearby, Café Cairo is another lively spot overlooking the harbour. It has a lavish Middle Eastern theme; enjoy a hookah pipe with friends and sample dishes from Egypt, Lebanon or Morocco. After 10pm a young crowd flocks here to dance or chat on the balcony. Also on Front Street is Muse, a fine dining restaurant and bistro specializing in French cuisine. It boasts a rooftop skybar overlooking the harbour. Cosmopolitan Nightclub has an outdoor bar and open air space for dancing. It’s high energy, with DJs playing the lastest music to a mature crowd. To sample local talent, try the Chewstick Lounge on Elliott Street. This music and spoken word venue is a strong draw for locals of all ages looking for a truly Bermudian experience.  

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In St George’s, The White Horse pub offers live entertainment and its nightclub, The Light, has DJs spinning the hottest music from around the world. Check out the extensive choice of special cocktails. Just around the corner is Wahoo’s Bistro and Patio, where patrons enjoying a pre-dinner cocktail or a nightcap spill out onto the cobbled street. Also in St George’s, The Beach House Restaurant and Bar at Blackbeard’s is a wonderful spot to enjoy a cocktail and a meal while watching the sun go down. Out west, the lively Bone Fish Bar and Grill at Dockyard attracts a good mix of locals and tourists. It often hosts salsa dancing on the outdoor patio and occasionally live music by local artists. Also see our pub guide, pages 94 & 95. n






Lunch: Monday - Friday Dinner: 7 days a week 87 Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-5373 Private Dining Room


Lunch: Monday - Friday Dinner: Monday - Saturday Closed: Sundays 87 Front Street, Hamilton (upstairs above Port O Call) Tel: 295-9150 Take Out Available


Lunch: Monday - Friday Dinner: Monday - Saturday Closed: Sundays Chancery Lane, Hamilton Tel: 296-8546


Open: Monday - Saturday, 7:00am - Late Closed: Sundays 10 Dundonald Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-0857 Take Out Available



food & drink

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Elegant and classy, Barracuda Grill is a reliable choice for lunch or dinner.

Eating out here’s a treat Our island is small but it offers an abundance of dining options. Casual dress is acceptable at most restaurants, though some upscale eateries require a jacket and tie. And it’s best to make reservations. The dollar signs (see our key, below) offer a rough guide to prices. Also visit www. for updated information. Barracuda Grill

and enjoy cocktails and martinis by our own award winning head bartender, or one of Barracuda Grill, one of Bermuda’s most celmore than 16 wines served by the glass.
The ebrated restaurants, is THE place to go for Barracuda Grill’s lavish and inviting interior outstanding seafood and chops prepared in hints at a time of luxurious passenger ships, a contemporary style, proudly winning nine popping champagne corks, and refined Best of Bermuda Awards!
Breathtakingly dining, all contemporized to be thoroughly stylish, Barracuda features warm mahogaof the moment. Irresistible seafood and ny woods, plush banquettes and a sumptuchops prepared with expertise ous but ever so comfortable Restaurant and passion take centre stage dining room, suitable for power price ranges on immaculate linen covered business meals or romantic per person tables.

5 Burnaby Hill (above tête-à-tête’s. If a little early for $ Under $20 the Hog Penny), Hamilton. Tel. your reservation, join the other $$ $20-$40 292-1609. Fax 292-8354. guests at the cozy, hip and tres $$$ $40-$50 

 chic bar with its glowing amber $$$$ Over $50 Lunch $$ Dinner $$$ coloured resin topped side bar, guide 85

food & drink

Mussel pie includes papaya, potatoes,

Hog Penny Restaurant and Pub

 The Hog Penny is Hamilton’s oldest licensed establishment, having been in business since 1957 and interestingly is the original inspiration for the Cheers pub in Boston. Authentic is not a word used lightly at Hog Penny, and our 50-plus year history gives us a delightful patina of age that you just can’t replicate. Our record has been hard earned!
Gourmet Magazine, in a December 1987 article exclaimed “it was love at first sight for us, as well as the throngs who flock here”, and as Gourmet wrote, this great institution is hard to beat for a truly authentic experience.
 Featuring great cuts of beef, genuine Indian curries, to-die-for hearty pub style comfort food that has won countless ‘Best of Bermuda’ awards, and having been featured on The Food Network’s ‘$40 A Day’, the Hog Penny continues to be a favourite spot for generations of locals and visitors alike! 
 5 Burnaby Hill (Just up from Front Street) Hamilton.

Tel. 292-2534 Fax 292-8354 Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Pickled Onion Restaurant 
 and Bar

 The Pickled Onion is a contemporary styled upscale but casual restaurant, with Bermuda’s best bar and ‘see and be seen’ vibe. Our chefs won the prestigious Escoffier Cup at the 2004 Bermuda Culinary Arts Festival, and we have received accolades from Food and Wine magazine, the Washington Post and most recently Giada’s Weekend Getaways on the Food Network. Our style of food is North American focused, with global influences, and our goal is to be the best value restaurant in Bermuda. Join us at our classy and fun Martini style bar, which is popular with local professionals or those wanting to enjoy a night out on the town. We feature live entertainment seven nights a week in season, and are located right on Front Street overlooking

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the harbour. We can’t wait to serve you!

53 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-2263. Fax 295-6291. www.thepickledonion. com
Lunch $$ Dinner $$

Victoria Grill The Victoria Grill is an upscale-casual restaurant, quick service café, and cocktail bar, located at the centre of Hamilton, at 29 Victoria Street. Bespoke sophistication and urban chic exude from every each of the three distinct segments that make up the whole VICTORIA GRILL experience: Java Jive is a quick service gourmet café featuring take away specialty coffees, fresh baked goods, unique breakfast items, and lunches to go, served with 2011 Best of Bermuda awarded customer service. Enjoy your cappuccino and Breakfast Sausage Cheddar & Egg Muffin, North Rock Chicken Wrap or Tuna Melt Panini on our street level patio, shaded by large awnings, and watch the hustle and bustle of Victoria Street, Hamilton’s financial and legal district. Rumba°r features a 25-seat onyx stone bar and cocktail tables setting a delightful scene indoors.  A covered outdoor lounge and below street courtyard beckon, with low tables and upholstered chairs and banquettes. Retractable roofing can be quickly deployed to cover the courtyard. Rumba°r is a perfect destination for small and large gatherings of friends, associates or business colleagues from 2 to 200. Our full menu includes delicious Kobe beef burgers, fresh crisp salads, steaks and fish entrees, and of course a wide selection of appetizers.   Reserve the V.I.P. Room which, with a flick of a switch, is converted from see through glass to opaque seclusion for that privately staffed business lunch or dinner for up to 12. Victoria Grill.  The perfect place for that important business lunch or power dinner, gatherings of friends, or simply to enjoy an intimate dining experience for two. With a mix of private tables or upholstered booths in the inside dining room, and cushioned

bacon, onions, lemon juice and spices. wicker armchairs and tables overlooking the below street courtyard on our outdoor verandah, Victoria Grill is in the very heart of Hamilton surrounded by sleek offices of International and Local Companies. The feeling is of a classic city bistro, with numerous wines available by the glass
Victoria Grill can seat 50 guests inside and 50 outside. With lots of street parking, Victoria Grill is open for Lunch on Monday to Friday, and dinner seven nights a week. 29 Victoria Street, Hamilton. 
 Tel. 296-5050 Java Jive $, Rumbar $$, 
 Victoria Grill $$-$$$

Frog & Onion and Dockyard Brewing Co. The Frog & Onion was created and opened in 1992 by a Bermudian (The Onion) and a Frenchman (The Frog). It is an authentic British style pub with great comfort food and tasty and unique gastro pub style dishes. The historic building the Frog & Onion is

food & drink

housed in, a cooperage, was completed in 1853 after the war of 1812. The provisioning of wooden ships during the days of sail required that almost all provisions be packaged in barrels or casks so they could be man-handled, loaded and stored in the cargo areas of the ship. Empty water casks needed to be taken ashore in ships’ boats for refilling at the watering place. The cooperage space and adjacent Victualling Yard were converted to five storehouses in the 1940s and now finds itself home to The Frog and Onion, and so continues in the victualling business. Dockyard Brewing Co is Bermuda’s only microbrewery, and has the distinction of being the only producer of any type of adult beverage that can put the “Totally Made in Bermuda” stamp on all of its products. Currently featuring 5 different types of beers and ales, Dockyard Brewing is a favourite destination of locals and tourists alike who wish to sample artisanal beverages of exContinued on page 90 guide 87

food & drink

A Dark ’n’ Stormy is Black Seal Rum

Continued from page 87

ceptional quality. The Cooperage Building, 4 Maritime Lane, Royal Naval Dockyard. Tel: 234-2900. Fax: 234-2917. E-mail $$

Flanagan’s Flanagan’s is Bermuda’s premiere Irish pub serving the best of Irish and local fare daily for lunch and dinner. Located on Front Street, Flanagan’s has a cozy pub atmosphere, affordable prices and friendly service. There is elevator access and outdoor seating with views of Hamilton Harbour. For a little bit of Ireland in Bermuda where you can enjoy a pint of draft beer and the all day English breakfast in a lively environment, Flanagan’s is the place! Its sister restaurant the Outback Sports Bar features 22 wide screen high definition TVs and is Bermuda’s only true sports bar. You can watch the game from the big 63” HD TV or watch the match from your

90 guide

own booth with your own personal TV and remote control. No matter what team you’re rooting for, you’ll always have the best seat in the house; it’s the best place to tailgate in Bermuda! Flanagan’s and the Outback Sports Bar are located across from the flag pole in the Emporium Building. 69 Front Street. Tel. 295-8299 Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Portofino For over 35 years we’ve been Bermuda’s favorite Italian restaurant. From a quick, delicious pizza, to homemade pastas and exotic dishes, all will delight in our bustling Italian atmosphere. Prices are right and we offer al fresco dining. Winner of the ‘City of Hamilton Food Festival 2012’ — People’s Choice Award for Best Restaurant. Trip Adviser Certificate of Excellence for 2012. Lunch is served weekdays 11:30am to 2pm. Dinner is served 7 days a week 6pm to 11pm. Reservations recommended. Our take-out service is available Monday through Friday from 11am to

what’s on food & drink

mixed with ginger beer – delicious! 10pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 4pm to 10pm. Bermudiana Road, just off Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-2375. Takeout: 296-0606. Lunch $, Dinner $$

Chatham House Bermuda’s leading specialty tobacco shop, established in 1895. Offering a marvellous selection of fine tobaccos and gifts for visitors, satisfaction is guaranteed. Our extensive range includes English Briar pipes, and a selection of Havanas such as Punch, Partagas, Romeo y Julieta, Upmann, Montecristo, Cohiba and Bolivar — all at good savings over U.S. prices. Corner of Front and Burnaby Streets, Hamilton. Tel: 292-8422

Somerset Country Squire Enjoy lunch or dinner at Somerset Country Squire, overlooking Mangrove Bay, in Sandys Parish, while you chat with the locals about Bermuda. Local cuisine includes fish chowder, seafood, locally caught lobster

when in season. Our Sunday Bermuda traditional “codfish and potato breakfast” has all the trimmings, banana, boiled egg with avocado pear (when in season). Whether you’re a party of one or a group, you’ll enjoy our service and food. Serving Monday through Wednesday from 3pm to 10pm, and Thursday through Sunday from noon to 9pm. 10 Mangrove Bay Rd., Somerset. Tel: 234-0105. Lunch $$ Dinner $$

The Pink Beach Club For a most romantic setting make your way to the beautiful Pink Beach Club in Tucker’s Town. The Bermudiana Restaurant prepares five-course gourmet dinners in elegant surroundings with stunning ocean views. A jacket is required for gentlemen, ties are optional. The table d’hotel menu changes daily and we are happy to accommodate special dietary requirements. Dinner served nightly 7pm — 9:30pm. South Road, Tucker’s Town. Tel: 293-1666. Breakfast $$, Lunch $$, Dinner $$$$ guide 91


Photo by Kageaki Smith

Enjoy a cocktail before brunch on a spectacular terrace at The Reefs.

Dine with the locals and enjoy a Sunday tradition By Mikaela Ian Pearman | Brunch in Bermuda isn’t just a meal, it’s a way of life. On Sundays, our restaurants are filled with friends and loved ones catching up, laughing, drinking — and of course, eating. It’s only semi-casual. While you don’t have to be dressed to the nines, people do tend to make some effort. So leave your sweats and sneakers at the hotel. The options are broad. If you prefer breakfast items, places such as Windows on the Sound at the Fairmont Southampton start early with waffles, Most brunches here include freshly carved meats.

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Enjoy a mimosa with your brunch omelette stations, pancakes, eggs as you like them and smoothies. Plus of course the traditional Bermudian Sunday breakfast — codfish and potatoes with all the trimmings. Other brunches are more geared towards lunch items and don’t start until noon, such as Henry VIII and The Reefs. So as well as codfish and potatoes you’ll find a carvery, macaroni and cheese, sushi, soups, salads — and of course a superb selection of desserts. They do Sunday brunch in style at the elegant Fourways Inn, Paget. There’s a delicious spread of hot and cold dishes and terrific desserts. A large dining room is split into small sections and the staff are pleasant and knowledgeable. At the Waterlot Inn, diners are greeted with their first course as they sit and then encouraged to partake in the buffet of salads, sushi, breads, fruit and so on. Main courses are ordered from a menu while dessert is a buffet.


Photo by

Brunch at At Henry VIII is fit for a king but the prices are reasonable.

Generally, beverages are not usually included, except for tea and coffee, and prices start at $30 per person plus gratuities. Join the locals at brunch for a truly Bermudian dining experience. Note: Brunch schedules vary and reservations are often required. Always best to call ahead. n Elegance personified: No-one does brunch in scruffy jeans at the classy Fourways Inn. guide 93

food & drink

Photo by Kageaki smith

Flanagan’s has cosy décor, pleasant staff and boasts a harbourfront terrace. It’s s one of our most popular spots.

Your handy pub guide Hamilton’s Front Street is the centre of our pub scene and the Pickled Onion is a great starting point. With live music, good food and a friendly atmosphere, it’s probably our most popular bar. The Hog Penny, a cozy, oak-panelled bar that inspired the Bull and Finch pub in Cheers, is just a few steps around the corner. Back on Front Street, Flanagan’s, an Irish bar with an American feel, and the Outback sports bar, which screens everything from basketball to cricket, are worth checking out.

The ‘shame’ bit kicks in if you find yourself still partying in the early hours, having planned a ‘quiet’ night out. 94 guide

Rum swizzle is deceptively strong Nearby, The Beach – self-proclaimed ‘shame of Front Street’ – is a popular late-night spot. It has a good bar menu and closes late; the ‘shame’ bit kicks in if you find yourself still partying in the early hours, having planned a ‘quiet’ night out. Bermudiana Road caters to a more sophisticated crowd. Smart shoes,collared shirts and well-padded wallets are required here, where upscale wine bars nestle between swish restaurants. The Robin Hood on Richmond Road is a lively, British-style pub with reasonably priced food and live sports. If you’re streetwise and like to stray off the beaten track, take a wander down Court Street, where you’ll enjoy the atmosphere in bars like the Spinning Wheel, where the DJ keeps the dance floor busy with a mix of classic soul, reggae and soca. The friendly Swizzle Inn, near the airport, is always a good night out and is famous for potent rum swizzle cocktails. North Rock Brewery on South Road, Smith’s Parish is a good spot to sample locally brewed beers — St. David’s Pale Ale is our favourite. The Frog and Onion in Dockyard will also serve you an authentic, local pint of beer and along with the Bone Fish Bar & Grill, a terrific people-watching spot, it’s your best bet in Dockyard. Out west, the Country Squire in Somerset has a beautiful wooden balcony overlooking Mangrove Bay and is worth a visit, while Henry VIII in Southampton is another popular spot. Wherever you go, don’t drink and ride — leave your rental scooter at the hotel and take a bus, cab or ferry. Cheers! n

food & drink

Flanagan’s is bermuda’s premiere irish pub serving the best of irish and local fare daily for lunch and dinner.

Two different atmospheres. One great location!

Bermuda’s only true sports bar!

Rude not to.


295.8299 guide 95

the last word

Our airport bears his name By Tim Hodgson | L.F. Wade International Airport is our main portal to the outside world and there could be no more apt tribute to the man after whom it is named — a courteous, cultured and transformative political figure. Leonard Frederick Wade (1939-1996) was sometimes bemused and occasionally exasperated by one of the occupational hazards of island life — his fellow Bermudians’ tendency to quarantine themselves from international developments. Secluded Bermuda’s proclivity for retreating back into old habits and traditional routines during a post-World War era of runaway global reform and restructuring was what drew this one-time high school teacherturned-lawyer into the island’s political arena in the early 1960s. A founding member of Bermuda’s first political L.F. Wade party and its leader at the time of his unexpected death, Wade was first elected to a legislature that ran this small country as if it was a large country club. His Progressive Labour Party’s calls for making over an island which remained racially segregated, economically stratified and politically arrested were initially met by bafflement, serial stop-gap measures and an overreliance on noblesse oblige by Bermuda’s patrician elite, rather than any long-term 96 guide

remedial programmes. Bermuda stubbornly insisted on attempting to remain a Victorian outpost well into the Jet Age. But Wade forthrightly challenged Bermuda’s unwritten policy of being in the world but not of the world. His personal and political mission was to encourage Bermuda to make a rapprochement with modernity, to redress longstanding racial and socioeconomic inequities not by way of violent revolution but rather through an incremental process of evolution. And by the time of his death, he had helped to coax, cajole and occasionally arm-twist his countrymen into accepting the unavoidable fact there really were no more islands anymore — not even Bermuda. n

HAMILTON * DOCKYARD * MAJOR HOTELS TEL ( 441) 295 2351 • FAX (441) 292 9153

HAMILTON * DOCKYARD * MAJOR HOTELS TEL ( 441) 295 2351 • FAX (441) 292 9153 guide | june 2013

guıde JUNE 2013

Yes, you’re in paradise For every special occasion Hamilton • Dockyard • Major Hotels Tel (441) 295 2351 Fax (441) 292 9153 official rolex retailer

Shopping, sightseeing, dining, culture


Bermuda Guide - June 2013  
Bermuda Guide - June 2013 has a sister - the guide! This guide is a handy visitor magazine that's packed with useful info and available all ov...