Page 1 guide | september 2010

guıde september 2010

Activities | Shopping | Dining | Culture Visit historic St. George’s — pages 30–38


© d. yurman 2010



iStock photo

Here on business? Take the weight off your feet — see pages 30 & 31.

n Arts

shipwrecks 62

galleries 14 featured artist 22

n Nature

n Business

new field guide 28-29 our lizards, birds & frogs 64

top tips 30-31

n News

n Events

round-up 26-27

calendar 12-14

n People

n Features

Premier’s welcome 4 meet the chef 24-25

climbing 8 quick break 20

n Food & drink meet the chef 24 best places to eat 83-96 classic local recipes 92 pub guide 94 enjoy a cuppa 96

n Practicalities health, customs etc 66-71

n Real Estate ownership options 52

n Shopping flex the plastic 74-81

n Sightseeing

n History

east to west 32-51

bygone Bermuda 19 visit the Old Town 32 best historic sites 50 shipwrecks 62 Bermuda shorts saga 72

n Sports & activities

n Insight

climbing 8 watersports 58 golf, tennis etc 54-59

n Transportation

bus & ferry info 67 & 68 bus schedule 49 ferry schedule 17 & 18 n Maps island map between 32 & 33 scooter rentals 69 how to ride safely 70 St. George’s 34 editor’s welcome 6

Hamilton 42 Dockyard 48

2 guide

n Weather what to expect 69

Co-publisher & advertising manager: Lisa Beauchamp, Tel: 278-1850 Co-publisher & editor-in-chief: Tony McWilliam, tmcwilliam@ Tel: 278-1860 Design & Layout: Creative Circle Media Consulting Account executive: Anona Everett Tel: 278-1832 Accounts: Donna Vesely Tel: 278-1831 Delivery: Lloyd Somner Cover photo: Hamilton Harbour by E. Michael Jones Contributors: Theresa Airey, Roger Crombie, Andrew Dobson, Meredith Ebbin, Lance Furbert, Sirkka Huish, Helen Jardine, Simon Jones, Jamie Macmillan, Leanne McGrath, Terri Mello, Kageaki Smith, Charles Webbe, James Whittaker. Special thanks to Alison Outerbridge & Jan Card guide Published by The Bermuda Sun a subsidiary of MediaHouse © Ltd. Printed by Island Press Ltd. Web: Information and services contained in the guide are believed to be correct at the time of printing; however, prices and times may be subject to change without notice. The Bermuda Sun Limited makes every effort to ensure accuracy but accepts no liability for errors or omissions. Reproduction in whole or in part by permission of the publisher only.

welcome to bermuda

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Premier Dr. Ewart Brown and his wife Wanda offer you a warm welcome to the island.

A FEW WORDS FROM OUR PREMIER | Welcome to Bermuda. You’ve

arrived in the high season and there is a wealth of things for you to do. Relax on our soft, pink-sand beaches. Hike along the path where trains once ran, or on the African Diaspora Heritage Trail. Run where the terrain is challenging and the scenery magnificent. Visit old turtles and engage with fish and other fascinating creatures at our zoo and aquarium. Spend time shopping in our unique stores in the capital city, Hamilton. Visit the historic Town of St. George — it was our first capital. At the other end of the island, explore the huge National Museum of Bermuda at Dockyard. Play golf on our fabulous courses. Try snorkelling and scuba diving. Take a charter and go deep-sea fishing. Take a taxi or a bus to see the island in new ways. Ride the ferries and see what a real island paradise we have. Wherever you go, whatever you do, experience the warmth and generosity of Bermudians. Wherever you go and whatever you do, I’m sure you will have a wonderful time. Sincerely, Dr. the Hon. Ewart F. Brown, JP, MP Premier and Minister of Tourism & Transport

4 guide

editor’s welcome

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Don’t forget your camera: The Beating of the Retreat is a colourful spectacle.

Enjoy the music By TONY McWILLIAM | As the high season starts to wind down, we turn to

ceremony, tradition — and fabulous music — to keep you entertained. It’s still beach weather, of course — expect daytime temperatures to range from the high 70s to the mid 80s — but with the kids back in school, the grown-ups now take centre stage. The Beating of the Retreat is a photogenic and rousing ceremony that takes place twice this month, on Monday, September 6 (in Dockyard) and on Wednesday, September 29 on Hamilton’s Front Street. With pipes and drums and bugles, the Bermuda Regiment re-enacts a ceremony that in centuries past — through a simple drum call — instructed soldiers to put out their fires and return to their billets. In bygone times the ceremony was also a signal for pubs to close… happily, that’s one tradition we’ve ditched. The parades start promptly at 9pm. Tradition runs deep through another key event this month — Labour Day, which falls on Monday, September 6. It’s a public holiday and labour unions will gather at Bernard Park, on the fringe of the city of Hamilton, to give speeches and provide entertainment. 6 guide

on welcome A labour gov’t first came to power in ‘98. editor’swhat’s There will be music, raffles, food stalls and cultural exhibits. Majorettes and the colourful Gombey dancers will be there, too. Events at the park will be preceded by a march from Union Square, Hamilton. Festivities also include a five-mile running race. For more details, call the Bermuda Industrial Union on 292-0044. If you’re lucky enough to be here at the end of the month, you’ll catch the Bermuda Music Festival. The venue this year is the Fairmont Southampton and the headliners are Ziggy Marley, Angie Stone, Estelle and Toni Braxton. Besides winning Grammys for his music, Marley, eldest son of reggae legend Bob, has earned acclaim for his activism and philanthropy for children’s causes. He will take to the stage on Thursday, September 30. London born Estelle, whose musical style

mixes rap, R&B and reggae, will co-headline with Angie Stone on Friday, October 1. Stone, another artist who excels across various genres of music, started out singing at a Baptist church in South Caro- Estelle lina and several years ago starred on VH1’s hit TV show Celebrity Fit Club. Rounding out the festival line-up is R&B songwriter Toni Braxton, who will perform on Saturday, October 2. She has sold more than 40 million albums worldwide and is a guaranteed crowd pleaser. The stars will be backed up by local talent Homegrown, McCartney K & Friends and the Chewstick Collective. Visit bdatix. bm for tickets. Enjoy! n

GOVERNMENT OF BERMUDA Ministry of Energy, Telecommunications and E-Commerce Bermuda Post Office

The Bermuda Post Office is pleased to offer “Dockyard Apprentices: Pioneers of Progress”, a series of four stamps depicting the role of Bermudian apprentices in the worldwide system of British Naval Dockyards.



Dockyard Apprentices

Dockyard Apprentices



Dockyard Apprentices

Dockyard Apprentices



No mountains here, but places to climb By James Whittaker | With its craggy limestone cliffs and a high point of 250ft, Bermuda hardly seems like a paradise for climbers. But rock climbing on ‘The Rock’ is a growing sport. The centre of the action and the only place for amateurs to climb is the custom built rock climbing wall at the Olympic Club gym in Hamilton. The wall caters to everyone — from three-year-olds trying the sport for the first time to seasoned veterans.

Photo by Scott Stallard

Getting high: Young and old alike enjoy the physical and mental challenge of ascending the climbing wall at the Olympic Club gym in Hamilton.

8 guide

It is also the social centre for Bermuda’s climbing scene and a great place to hang out — literally. If you are tired of the beach and the water and looking to try something new, a day at the wall will set you back $35 for an adult, $25 for kids. You will be taught basic skills of climbing by qualified instructors and try out some of the different routes to the top of the wall. For more experienced climbers, the wall Continued on page 10


Our highest point is Town Hill in Smith’s.

Continued from page 8

is still a good starting point. “It is a good place to meet other climbers and find out about some of the stuff we do outside of the wall,” says John Langston, chief instructor at the wall. There’s no official guiding and outdoor routes are strictly for qualified climbers only. But if you’ve got the know-how and want to try out some fairly unique climbing on Bermuda’s beautiful ocean-side cliffs, there is a small group of enthusiastic locals who are keen to share their knowledge of the island. Climbing didn’t exist as a sport in Bermuda until the Olympic Club wall was opened in 2004. And it has grown from there, with many of the locals who learned their skills on the wall now pioneering new frontiers in on the brittle and seemingly unwelcoming

cliffs of Bermuda’s shoreline. Most of the climbing in Bermuda is ‘deep water soloing’ — which essentially means climbing without ropes and using the water as a safety net. Many of the climbs top out at a mere 30ft above sea level, but they are difficult and sometimes involve long traverses. A locally based website is a good place for serious climbers to find out more about Bermuda rock climbing and to hook up with local climbers. Most tourists will want to head straight to the wall — open from midday until 8pm every day except Monday. Call the Olympic Club on 292-4095 to find out more. n Editor’s note: We strongly discourage anyone from climbing here without professional guidance.

Photo by James Whittaker

Leave this to the pros: Advanced climbers clamber up our cliffs, using the ocean as a safety net.

10 guide

what’s on

A fun-packed September events

n Bermuda Grand Prix

n King Of The Rock Lacrosse Tournament Sept 4-5 Spectators welcome, time and venue TBA.

n Summer Sunday in the Park Sept 5 Live entertainment, food, children’s play area, 3-8pm. Victoria Park, Hamilton.

n Beating of the Retreat

Sept 25 Ship tours, plankton tows, wacky science experiments, arts & crafts. 11am-4pm, Bermuda Institute of Ocean Science, near St. George’s. Free. Sept 25-26 Glow worms give bioluminescent display during mating season. Leave at sunset from BUEI, Hamilton, weather permitting. Tickets $50 non-members, $35 members. Tel: 297-7314.

n Live music

n Live music

n Marine Science Day

n Glow worm boat tour

Sept 6 & 29 Military music & marching, Bermuda Regiment Band and Corps & Drums, Bermuda Islands Pipe Band & dancers. Sept 6: Dockyard. Sept 29: Front Street, Hamilton. (See page 6). Sept 11 Singer/songwriter Ellen Cherry. Spanish Point Boat Club from 8pm. Cash bar. Tickets $12 non-members, $7 members. Tel: 295-1030, email

Sept 18-19 Premier annual cycling event, hosted by Bermuda Bicycle Association, for local and overseas riders. Spectators welcome, free. Location TBA.

n Ziggy Marley Sept 30 Legendary reggae star MCT photo Bob’s Grammy-winning son Reggae star Ziggy Marley performs for Bermuda Music will perform here on Sept. Festival, Fairmont Beach 30. Club, South Shore, Southampton. Tickets $95-140 from www.

Sept 18 U.S. funk/R&B musician Jeffrey Osborne, with local acts. Fairmont Southampton Resort, 9pm. Tickets $125 from 27th Century Boutique, Reid Street or Tel: 504-7521 or 504-8310.

n Historical re-enactment Mon, Tues, Wed, Thur & Sat Witness the ducking of the wench in King’s Square, St. George’s, followed by live entertainment. Noon. Tel: 297-1532 

Compiled by Leanne McGrath. Listings are subject to change: For the latest, call the numbers provided and visit our website To submit a listing, e-mail guide 11

what’s on

Use pink bus stops for travel into Hamilton,

n Live in King’s Square Mon, Tues, Wed, Thur & Sat Music, Gombeys, limbo dancing. 11.40amnoon & 12.20-2.20pm, King’s Square, St. George’s

n Market Nights Tuesdays Arts & crafts stalls, food, live entertainment. King’s Square, St. George’s, 7-10pm

n Harbour Nights Wednesdays Arts & crafts stalls, food & live entertainment, including Gombey dancers. Front Street, Hamilton, 7-10pm.

n Gombeys in the park Saturdays Gombey dancers perform, noon-1pm, 
 Par-la-Ville Park, Hamilton.

n Vendor market Saturdays Jewellery, clothing, crafts. From 8am, Somerset Cricket Club.

n Jazz Night Thursdays Pianist Toni Bari at Tucker’s bar, Tucker’s Point Hotel, 8-11:30pm.

activities n Sandtastic Days Sept 1-4 Sand sculptures & lessons. 10am-4pm, Horseshoe Bay.

n Argentine Tango Festival Sept 2-5, Fairmont Hamilton Princess ballrooms. Sept 2: 6:30-9pm, guided practice workshop; 8pm-12am, opening milonga. Sept 3: 9-10:15am, tango basics workshop; 10:30-11:45am, close embrace ‘salon style’ musicality workshop; 1:15-2:30pm, technique

12 guide

workshops; 6:30-7:30pm, master instructors workshop; 8pm, evening milonga. Sept 4: 9-10:15am, basic steps, milonga workshop; 10:30-11:45am, basics of tango workshop; 1:15-2:30pm, dancing in the milongas of Buenos Aires, workshop; 8pm, evening milonga; 9pm, professional showcase. Sept 5: 9-10:15am, what is vals? (Argentine tango) workshop; 10:30-11:45am, technique workshop; 1:15-2:30pm, knowing the beat & melody of tango, how to feel the music of Pugliese workshop; 6:30-7:30pm, guided practice, 8pm-12am closing milonga. Full Package $350. Individual full day (workshops only) $120; individual class $45; individual evening milonga $15; individual evening milonga with showcase on September 4 $30. Tickets at

n Charity golf classic Sept 17 In aid of Bermuda Cancer and Health Centre. Belmont Hills Golf Club. Shotgun start 1:30pm. Tel: 298-7102

n Salsamania Latin dance & music, 8.30pm-midnight. Mon & Thurs: Bone Fish Bar & Grill, Dockyard. 
Tue: Grotto Bay Resort, Hamilton Parish. Wed: Latin bar and restaurant, Hamilton. Fri: Lido Complex, Elbow Beach. Sun (6:30-9:30pm) Bone Fish Bar & Grill, Dockyard.

n Bank of Bermuda Foundation Triathlon Sept 26 Enter at, times TBA. Spectators welcome. Clearwater Beach, St. David’s.

n Hot Summer Sundays Music by local acts, beach BBQ, Swizzle specials, volleyball & watersports from 11am, Snorkel Park Beach, Dockyard.

n Sizzling Tuesdays Free rum swizzle, fish chowder tasting,

and blue for heading away from the city. 2.30pm-4.30pm. Gombeys Restaurant, Clearwater Beach, St. David’s.

n Taste of Bermuda Sundays Sample local products; rum, pepper jams, rum cakes, honey, sherry peppers & ginger beer. From 1:30pm. Free. Cooperage Atrium, Bermuda Craft Market, Dockyard. Tel: 234-3208. E-mail: bdacraftmkt@

n Open-mic night Saturdays Tony Brannon sings, invites others to join him. 8pm. Frog & Onion Pub, Dockyard. Email:

tours n City walking tours Mon, Wed & Fri 10.30am & 2.30pm. Meet at City Hall, Hamilton.

n Town walking tours Mon, Tue, Wed & Thur 12.30pm — Made in Bermuda. 1.30pm — Confederates, Rogues & Rum Runners. 2.45pm — photo expedition and African Diaspora Heritage Trail. All leave Town Hall, St. George’s.

n Walking Club of Bermuda Six to seven-mile walk of the island’s

Byways Bermuda Tours Tour the island in Heidi’s comfortable minibus; a wonderful opportunity to see and experience the real Bermuda with a well-informed, enthusiastic guide and driver. Heidi offers 4-hour afternoon tours with refreshments, and an all-day tour with complimentary refreshments. $100 per person, discount for more than 4: $80 each. Reservations: 535-9169

what’s on

beauty spots. Sept 5, Horseshoe Bay; Sept 12, City Hall to Somerset Bridge (nine miles and you will need cash for return bus journey); Sept 19, Spanish Point Park; Sept 26 Bridge Club, Pomander Road, Paget. Free. All welcome. Meet at venue at 7am. Call 737-0437 or visit

n African Diaspora heritage trail tour Saturdays 11am-noon. Leaves from Cabinet Office, Hamilton.

n Byways Bermuda Tours Fully escorted tours with driver, guide & refreshments. Tel: 504-8687.

n National Trust Tour Wed & Fri Tour gardens of Waterville, 18th century house and Paget Marsh Nature Reserve. Starts 10am. Must book in advance. $50 per person for four people or $150 per couple for a private tour. Tel: 236-6483. 

n Famous Homes and Hideaways sightseeing cruise Various days/times Cruise into an exclusive neighbourhood known as Millionaire’s Row plus learn about our flora and fauna. $45. From Hamilton Harbour and Dockyard. Contact Geri Roberts, Consort Cruises. Tel: 3357201. E-mail

n Glass Bottom Boat Sightseeing Cruise. Daily, various times. View coral reefs & marine life. Leaves Dockyard & Hamilton, $45.

n Sessions House Tour Mon-Thurs Tour home of Parliament and Supreme Court. Free. 10:30am and 2:30pm. Corner of Parliament and Church Streets, guide 13

what’s on

Bermuda’s population is about 66,000.

Hamilton. Tel: 292-7408. E-mail

n Botanical Gardens Tour Tue, Wed & Fri Meet at Berry Hill entrance near Visitors’ Centre, Paget, 10.30am. Tel: 236-5291

n Bermuda National Gallery tour Thursdays Free. Meet 10:30am, City Hall.

n Free on Fridays National Trust Museum Globe Hotel, 
St. George’s, 10am-2pm. 
 Tucker’s House Museum Water Street, St. George’s, 10am-4pm.


ions Gallery, MAWI Mind Frame. Edinburgh Gallery, Emmerson Family works. Free. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-3824. 

n Crisson & Hind Art Gallery Hand-carved sculptures from Zimbabwe. Free. 71 Front St, Hamilton. Tel: 2951117.

n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Our House…A Welcome Home explores local architecture, history and traditions. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm. Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel: 236-2950. E-mail:

n Bermuda Arts Centre Until Sept. 17, Summer Sales. From Sept. 19, Pastels X by Sharon Wilson and students. Free. Open Mon-Sun 11am-4pm. Dockyard. Tel: 234-2809. E-mail:

n Common Ground Café Socially Uncommon by Calix Smith. Open Mon- Fri, 7:30am-5pm, Sat 8am-3pm. Chancery Lane, Hamilton. Contact Susan Pearson. Tel: 505-4290. 

n National Gallery Bacardi Biennial Exhibition 2010; contemporary art featuring works selected by international judging panel. See page 22. Free. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm and Sat 10am2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-9428.

n World Heritage Centre Interactive, historic displays. $5 adults, $2 children. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm. Penno’s Wharf, St. George’s. Tel: 2975791

n National Museum of Bermuda

n National Trust Museum at Globe Hotel

Open daily 9:30am-5pm. Adults $10, seniors $8, under-13s free. Dockyard. Tel: 234-1418. 

Bermuda’s role in the American Civil War. Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, adults $5, children $2, free on Fri. St. George’s. Tel: 297-1423.

n Bermuda Society of Arts

n Verdmont Museum

Sept 3-22: Onions Gallery, Members Fall Show. Edinburgh Gallery, Influences by Ed Przelomski. Studio A & B, Sculpture by Dany Pen. Studio C, Jackie Stevenson. Studio D, Alex Allardyce. From Sept 24: On-

Tues, Thur, Fri & Sat Antiques including cedar furniture & portraits. Adults $5, children $2, open 10am-4pm. Verdmont Lane, Smith’s. Tel: 236-7369.

14 guide

T he highlight of your visi t will be at…

Harbour Nights

The Bermuda Way of Life” Life “The Every Wednesday Night on Front Street in Hamilton 7pm to 10pm from April 28th to September 8th

Create memories by participating in a variety of Live Entertainment • Local Traditions • Water Activities • Train Rides • Children’s Activities Local Arts and Crafts • Gombeys • Bermudian and Ethnic Foods For more details visit Sponsored By is spon or

ed by

this ev




Hosted by

Join us in the West End for a fun-filled Street Festival

Happy Hour: ‘Taste of Bermuda’(free samples) at Frog & Onion Pub and Bermuda Craft Market 6pm - 8pm The Main Event: (8pm-10:30pm) A Variety of Live Entertainment • Glass Blowing • Gombeys Clocktower Shopping Mall (open until 9pm) • Children’s Activities • Local Arts and Crafts • Bermudian and Ethnic Foods After Hours: Salsa at Bone Fish Bar & Grill 8:45pm - 12am Live local entertainment at Snorkel Park Beach 10pm to 2am

Every Monday Night in Dockyard June – September 2010 For more details visit Hosted by

Sponsored By


GOVERNMENT OF BERMUDA Ministry of Tourism and Transport Department of Marine and Ports


Monday Friday

Leave Leave Leave Leave Leave Leave Arrive Hamilton St. David’s Dockyard St. George’s St. David’s Dockyard Hamilton 6:40 8:45 9:30 1:30 2:30 5:20

7:30 7:40 9:15 10:00* 10:00 10:45* 10:45 11:30 12:15 11:30 12:15 1:00 2:00 3:00 4:00 3:00 4:00 4:45 6:05 6:10 7:00 (*) Must disembark in Dockyard to transfer if travelling to Hamilton



Fare Information Passes valid on all routes on both ferries & buses

8:20 12:35 1:20 4:20 5:05 7:20

Marine and Ports shall not be liable for loss or damage to property.

Adult 1-Day Adult 2-Day Adult 3-Day Adult 4-Day

$12.00 $20.00 $28.00 $35.00

Adult 7-Day Adult Monthly Pass Adult 3-Month Pass

$45.00 $55.00 $135.00

Student Passes (5-18yrs)

All Students (residents only) must present a transportation pass when using public transportation.

Please ensure you have a token or ticket before boarding

BLUE ROUTE/GREEN ROUTE Adult One-way $4.00 Bikes an additional $4.00 Adult-15 tickets $30.00 Student (5-16yrs) One-way $2.00 Student-15 tickets $7.50 Child Under Age 5 FREE Bermuda Senior Citizens FREE with Special Persons Pass

PINK ROUTE Adult One-way Adult-15 tickets Student (5-16yrs) One-way Student-15 tickets Child Under Age 5 Bermuda Senior Citizens with Special Persons Pass

$2.50 $20.00 $2.00 $7.50 FREE FREE

ORANGE ROUTE - Most economical option is a Transportation Pass. Adult One-way $4.00 (Hamilton to/from Dockyard) Adult One-way $4.00 (Dockyard to/from St. George’s) Adult One-way $8.00 (Hamilton to/from St. George’s) Bikes an additional $4.00 (Hamilton to/from Dockyard) Bikes an additional $4.00 (Dockyard to/from St. George’s) Student 5-16yrs One-way $2.00 (Ham/Dock) $4.00 (Ham/St. Geo) Child Under Age 5 FREE Bermuda Senior Citizens FREE with Special Persons Pass

Passes, Tokens & Tickets available from the Hamilton Ferry & Bus Terminals, Visitors’ Service Bureau, sub-post offices, hotels and guest houses.

Hamilton Ferry Terminal open Mon-Fri 6.30am-8pm • Sat 7.30am-6pm • Sun & Holidays 8.30am-6.30pm Service is subject to change. For further information please call Hamilton Terminal 295-4506.

SUMMER FERRY SCHEDULE 2010 Hamilton • West End • Dockyard BLUE ROUTE

Monday - Friday


Leave Dockyard

6:50 7:10 7:50 8:30 8:50 10:00 10:30 11:00 11:30 12:00 1:00 3:00 4:00 4:10 4:30 5:30 6:00 6:30 7:30 9:00 10:00

7:30 9:00 9:30 10:00 10:30 11:00 11:30 12:00 12:30 1:30 3:30 4:30 5:00 6:40 8:00 9:30 10:30

Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays

Leave Hamilton 9:00 10:00 11:00 12:00 1:30 2:30 4:00 5:00 6:00 7:00 8:30 10:00

Watford Bridge

Cavello Bay

Arrive Hamilton

7:20 8:20 9:10 10:45 4:50 5:50 7:00 Goes to or from Green Route

7:10 8:10 9:20 11:45 4:40 6:00 6:50 9:15 -

7:45 8:15 8:45 9:20 9:50 10:20 10:50 11:20 11:50 12:20 12:50 1:50 4:00 4:50 5:20 5:20 6:20 7:10 7:20 8:20 9:55 10:50

Leave Dockyard

Arrive Hamilton

9:30 10:30 11:30 12:30 2:00 3:00 4:30 5:30 6:30 7:45 9:15 10:30 Additional Saturday Service Only

9:50 10:50 11:50 12:50 2:20 3:20 4:50 5:50 6:50 8:15 9:45 11:00

Hamilton, Dockyard, Rockaway, St. George’s and St. David’s are accessible to persons with disability. It is not accessible on the Green Route at 9:15 am, 10:45 am and 1:45 pm, also from Dockyard on the Blue Route at 10:00 am and 11:00 am. CASH NOT ACCEPTED ON FERRIES


Service is subject to change. For further information please call Hamilton Terminal 295-4506. Hamilton Ferry Terminal open Mon-Fri 6.30am-8pm • Sat 7.30am-6pm • Sun & Holidays 8.30am-6.30pm Marine and Ports shall not be liable for loss or damage to property.

bygone bermuda

Stone cutting: Bermuda’s oldest industry By Theresa Airey | Stone cutting began here early in the 17th century, somewhere between 1614 and 1624, when the settlers began to replace their palmetto-thatched cedar houses with stone dwellings. Bermuda stone is a soft limestone consisting of broken shells and coral. The early colonists found it useful for building roofs and walls; after exposure to the air and the elements, the soft stone turned hard and durable. It was also a good source of lime for mortar when burned, as it is elementally almost pure calcium carbonate. The stone’s initial softness made it easy to cut into blocks and slabs with a cross cut saw. Up to around l965, stone was still cut by hand but today, mechanical saws are used. Our picture, showing stonecutters in a quarry, was taken around 1900.

During your visit, be sure to notice not only our lovely stone cottages but also our old, weathered walls along roadsides. Bermudians call them ‘dry walls’ because in the early days no cement was used. Today cement is used but in a concealed way to preserve the old look. Even though the walls might look haphazard, they are put together with a great deal of skill; the stones of different shapes and sizes are pieced carefully together to prevent them from falling apart. n This image is from Theresa Airey’s book, ‘Bermuda Then and Now’, a collection of hand-coloured photographs taken in the late 1800s and early 1900s and accompanied by contemporary shots taken 100 years later, in 2007 and 2008. The book can be found in all Bermuda bookstores. guide 19

quick break

Bermuda in five days

Photo by Kageaki Smith

A round of golf is a must even if you’re only here a few days and on our scenic island, every course is a seaside links.

By CHARLES WEBBE | Whether it be golfing, sunbathing, fine dining or pampering that tops your priorities, all of these and more can be leisurely enjoyed within a five-day stay. The famous Port Royal Golf Course, home to next month’s PGA Grand Slam, is world class but you don’t have to be a pro to play it. The same goes for Mid-Ocean Club and Tucker’s Point. They are private clubs, but introductions can be made. Belmont Hills, Riddell’s Bay, Ocean View and the Fairmont 20

Southampton Resort also offer great golfing. (See more about golf on pages 55-57). When it comes to beach life, our ‘gold coast’ — otherwise known as the south shore — is a must. Here’s an insider’s tip: a bike ride to the west end and the Royal Naval Dockyard will give you access to several mini-beaches, where the soft, pink and white sand will be yours alone. Or try picturesque Shelly Bay Beach in the mornings when few, if any, locals will be there, except during school holidays. When it comes to food, international cuisine is widely available but it’s worth making the effort to seek out authentic, local eateries. For no-frills Bermudian grub, the Black Horse Tavern in St. David’s serves succulent fresh fresh (the owner is a fisherman). Or enjoy fine dining at the scenic Waterlot Inn in Southampton or at Fourways Inn in Paget, an elegant establishment that oozes olde worlde charm. If, after all your feasting and sunworshipping, you feel the urge to chill out, great spa choices abound: Willow Stream at the Fairmont Southampton Resort, Cambridge Beaches, Tucker’s Point and Elbow Beach — all offer exquisite luxury. Your concierge can tell you about other spas on the island. In between all these sybaritic joys you can fit in some touring, sailing, snorkelling — even helmet diving; take your pick. Five days in beautiful Bermuda is just enough time to have your fill of fun — and yet leave with a personal pledge to return for more. n guide

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8/19/10 9:20 AM

A trip to Bermuda would not be complete without a visit to the island’s newest attraction; The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art. Opened on March 2nd, 2008, this state of the art building is the first purpose built museum in the history of Bermuda. Housed in the beautiful Botanical Gardens in Paget, five minutes from Hamilton, the new museum is in itself a work of art. Plan your visit and learn about Bermuda’s culture and history, there is no better stop on your vacation itinerary than the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art!

Museum Hours: Monday-Saturday | 10:00am - 4:00pm Closed on all Public Holidays.

Entry is $5. Free for members and children under 12. Museum is handicapped accessible with ramps and an elevator.

Tel: 441 236-2950 • Fax: 441 236-4402 email:

Private tours can be arranged and more information can be found on our website

The Botanical Gardens 183 South Road Paget DV o4 • Bermuda

arts scene Biennial’s our top showcase An established presence in art circles, By Helen Jardine | Every special Mr. Gardner is “ecstatic” to have had his birthday deserves a birthday cake. Berwork chosen again for the Biennial. “It’s muda celebrated 400 years of settlement last year and artist John Gardner a club that you certainly want to be in as found a novel way to mark the occasion. an artist.” He created a work of art depicting 100 Other featured artists include John birthday cakes and 400 candles. Battersbee, Louisa Bermingham Flannery, It is featured in the William Collieson, James Cooper, Graham ninth Bacardi Limited C. Foster, Meredith Andrews, Charlie Godet Biennial of ContemThomas, Kathy Harriott, Scott Hill, Antoine porary Bermuda A. R. Hunt, N. Christina Hutchings, Sunell Art, at our national Lombard, Ian Macdonald-Smith, Bill Ming, gallery. Kevin Morris, Bryan Ritchie, Alan C. Smith, John Gardner “It’s an historiMichael Walsh, and Charles Zuill. cal piece,” Mr. Gardner told us. “Notice The Biennial runs until November 26 the candles bending in one direction — it and features 20 artists and 42 works represents the moment after you blow of art at the Bermuda National Gallery, out the candles to make a wish, which in City Hall Arts Centre, Church Street, turn represents the fact that we have just Hamilton. Open Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm and celebrated Bermuda’s birthday.” Saturdays 10am-2pm, Tel: 295-9428. n An architect by profession, Mr. Gardner is a graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design. “My work as an artist could be described as serious and thoughtful,” he said. “Both of my works in the Biennial are conceptual, with the intention of exploring symbolic issues handin-hand with weightPhotos supplied Caked in history: 100 cakes and 400 candles. lessness and light”. 22 guide



Mike and Dusty Hind in the Gallery.

Magnificent works handcarved in rare stones by the Shona Master Fine Artists of Zimbabwe. Exquisite animals, wonderful heads, and intriguing abstracts. Ngoni Mother and Child by Peter Chikumbirike in Cobalt Stone 31" x 26" x 13"

2ND FLOOR, CRISSON BUILDING 71 FRONT STREET, HAMILTON (The yellow building next to the Emporium) Phone 441-295-1117

meet the chef

Photo by Sirkka Huish

Keith DeShields, executive chef at stunning Cambridge Beaches in Somerset, wants to help put Bermuda on the culinary map.

Bermudian chef brings his talents back home By Sirkka Huish | Chef Keith DeShields loves creating new dishes by blending local and European flavours. The 40-year-old recently returned to his island home of Bermuda after 12 years of working in Germany with some of the world’s most celebrated chefs. He is executive chef at Cambridge Beaches, heading up about 30 staff at the resort’s three restaurants — The Tamarisk Room, Breezes and Shutters. Mr. DeShields, who started whipping up dishes in the kitchen at the age of seven, is planning big things for the culinary arts in Bermuda. “I take being a chef extremely personally,” he told us. “My food is me, it is an extension of me. I want people to talk about my food, I want to make sure Bermuda is on the map.” We fired some questions at this talented Bermudian to find out more about him and his passion for food. 24 guide

Loquats were first brought here in 1850.

meet the chef

Your best appetizer?

Favourite Bermudian dish?

Monkfish wrapped in pancetta with apricot ravioli and dark ’n’ stormy vinaigrette. This is a combination of flavours, with the sweet taste of apricot soaked in champagne. Add the rum and you get an instant taste of Bermuda.

It’s got to be fish chowder or Hoppin’ John (peas and rice). Both remind me of Papa and good ol’ family time at home. I have strong memories of these dishes being cooked.

Best main course? Panfried snapper fillet with oregano infused barley and white wine glaze peaches. I only really eat fish and this is fresh, local snapper at its best. With the white wine, you have a sweet-sour play in your mouth.

Best dessert? Trilogy of lemon — lemon port wine mousse, Thai basil lemon macaroon, caramelized cornmeal lemon crusted tart. The idea of lemon freshness in the mouth is the optimum experience. I’ve taken the idea of lemon and made three similar but different flavours. They all have different textures and you’ll feel a crunch in your mouth with the crusted tart.

Cooking style? I’m influenced by Bermuda but use European techniques. The food is more gourmet than rustic.

Favourite wine? Riesling, because of its freshness.

Favourite celebrity chef? Masaharu Morimoto, a Japanese chef from the TV cooking show Iron Chef, never ceases to amaze me. His brain is just crazy, but his creations are amazing. I remember the first time I watched him, he used the same ingredients to make five courses, I was just baffled!

Most embarrassing moment? When I’m trying to be clever and it all goes horribly wrong. One time I was slicing onions, trying to show off and go really fast. But I sliced off a bit of my finger instead of the onion.

Ambition? I want to see a Michelin star restaurant in Bermuda and I want to be running it. That’s the plan. n

Management style? It’s definitely not Hell’s Kitchen here, quite the opposite in fact. I don’t yell at the top of my voice. I’m more psychological because I like to work with people at their level.

Best local ingredients? The local fish is the best fish you are going to get. My favourite fish is bonito; I can’t get enough of it. As for seasoning, I try to use loquats and bay grapes when in season.

Cambridge Beaches guide 25

in the news

Keep track of lost bags By Helen Jardine | High-tech kiosks that track missing luggage have been installed at our airport. L.F. Wade International is the first airport in the world to introduce the SITA WorldTracer Kiosk. The self-service kiosks, linked to a global tracing system, are part of a multi-million-dollar overhaul of the airport’s self-service technology. The kiosks are simple to use; scan your baggage claim tags, enter contact details and you’ll be kept informed until your bag is retrieved.

Photo supplied

New kiosks at the airport are easy to use and help you keep tabs on lost or delayed luggage.

Hotels draw praise

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The stunning cliff-top location of The Reefs impressed Travel & Leisure magazine.

26 guide

Tucker’s Point Hotel & Spa and The Reefs were singled out as two of the top 25 Caribbean region hotels by Travel & Leisure magazine. Tucker’s Point was ranked seventh across the region. Located on 200 lush acres overlooking Castle Harbour, its 88 guest rooms come with mahogany beds, deep soaking tubs and balconies. The Reefs moved up three positions and was named the 15th best hotel; it has made the top 25 list every year since 1997. The magazine said of The Reefs: “The resort offers a variety of room options,

Our civil air terminal opened in 1946. including cottages nestled among pristine limestone cliffs with dramatic views of Bermuda’s south shore.”

Dolphins named

in the news

The awards were presented to Harry’s manager Jordan Monkman by Walter Roban, Minister of Health, who also praised executive chef Bradley Clease and head waiter Choy Sofyen. The award is named after former Chief Environmental Health Officer, Patrick Mayers, who helped to raise standards at food outlets.

Real estate buzz They were nameless for months but Dolphin Quest’s three babies now answer to Cooper, Cavello and Marley (pictured above). They were the winning names chosen from more than 500 entries in a ‘name the baby’ competition launched in June. Born within 13 days of each other back in April, the babies have been named after local landmarks. ‘Cooper’ is named after the Old Cooperage Building in Dockyard (now home to a craft market); ‘Cavello’ after Cavello Bay and ‘Marley’ after Marley Beach on our south shore. Dolphin Quest is located in Dockyard.

Within the next few years, the prestigious Fairmont Hamilton Princess could be renting and selling luxury residential units to international companies. The hotel has launched a six-month feasibility study, following passage of the Companies Amendment Act 2010, which allows international companies to purchase or lease hospitality units on hotel properties. Laurent Poole, CEO of Bermuda Resorts Limited, which owns the Princess, said if plans went ahead, “we would look to finish as rapidly as possible and with minimal disturbance to our guests”. n

Wild about Harry’s Harry’s restaurant is a safe bet — and that’s official. The stylish city eatery, located a few minutes’ walk from the Fairmont Hamilton Princess Hotel, won this year’s Mayers Award for Food Hygiene and Safety. It also bagged the Best Restaurant Award.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The spectacular Fairmont Hamilton Princess could one day be renting/selling luxury units. guide 27


Photos from ‘A Naturalist’s Field Guide to Bermuda’

The majestic green heron, a fairly common sight at places like Spittal Pond.

Field guide’s a must have for nature lovers By SIMON JONES | Martin Thomas has spent most of his life “in the field” studying, exploring and researching many parts of the world. His latest book about the wildlife and geology of Bermuda is a collation of studies dating back over three decades. ‘A Naturalist’s Field Guide to Bermuda’ is packed with colourful photos and interesting information about the island’s wildlife and geology. It fits snuggly in your pocket and will

“Most field guides look at one group of animals or family of plants but in this one we try to look at everything – and divide it into habitats.” Naturalist Martin Thomas 28 guide

Paget Marsh is rich in endemic plant life. be a good companion when you venture along the old Railway Trails or take a walk around Spittal Pond. Dr. Thomas was born in the U.K. but spent most of his life lecturing at the University of New Brunswick in Canada. He retired from his post in 2000 but has been busy with other wildlife and marine projects. Dr. Thomas says that although the field guide might be his last book, he will continue to pursue his passion for plants, wildlife and geology. “I have been coming back to Bermuda for more than 30 years,” he told us. “I used to bring a group of students here from Canada to study sub-tropical biology. “This field guide is a collation of those experiences and more recent studies over the last few years. “Most field guides look at one group of animals or family of plants but in this one we try and look at everything – and divide it into habitats.” Dr. Thomas was in Bermuda recently to promote his latest publication, which follows on the heels of ‘A Natural Guide to Bermuda’. He said: “It’s a great feeling to see it all in print and I’m really pleased with the way it looks. It is always a relief to something like this done and it seems to be selling well so I am very happy.” The field guide, published by the Bermuda Zoological Society, is available at bookstores islandwide. n For more on our wildlife, see pages 64 & 65.


The land snail is endemic and exceptionally rare.

The ubiquitous whistling frog or tree frog.

The bluehead wrasse is just six inches long. guide 29

business brief

photo by kageaki smith

Great place to stop for a cuppa between meetings: Common Ground on Chancery Lane in Hamilton.

Here on business? Save time with our top tips By Roger Crombie | It’s your first business trip to Bermuda. You’ve done the legal research, but as you gaze at the ocean from the comfort of your hotel room, you wonder where to start. Your local contact is knowledgeable about your business, but you hesitate to ask where you can find the best cup of coffee or those knee socks your dear uncle asked you to pick up. Here’s the inside dope, a mix of the factual and the utterly opinionated — in the city of Hamilton, unless otherwise indicated. n The wired island: Your hotel will get you online wirelessly, fast. If you’re in Hamilton, device-less but desperate, Internet cafés abound. Your BlackBerry, cellphone and 4G iPhone will all work here; peruse the ‘Locals’ section of for service providers (all much the same). n My BlackBerry broke! Consider spending the day at the beach or, 30 guide

Bermuda is a tax neutral jurisdiction. borrow a pal’s phone and see if Cellular One (700-7600) or Digicel (500-5000) can help.

n Pizza pizza: Need to sit down for a bite, but pressed for time and don’t want a nine-course meal? La Trattoria (Washington Lane) serves memorable pizza. n Play by the rules: The Bermuda Monetary Authority (Victoria Street), might sound like it should be full of heavies, but it’s quite approachable and won’t (automatically) give ‘no’ for an answer. (Tel: 295-5278) n Bar none: In Bermuda, the CEOs of the big re/insurance companies hang out at Little Venice or other wine bars on Bermudiana Road. Deals also get struck at Fresco’s on Chancery Lane and Port O’ Call on Front Street. Ease your way into the conversation. n Taxi! If you can’t find a cab for love nor money, walk down to the Fairmont Hamilton Princess (Pitts Bay Road), where they’ll be lined up.

business brief

a bank account? Any of the four local banks (HSBC Bank of Bermuda, Butterfield, Bermuda Commercial or Capital G) will help. Take your passport and a recent utility bill. n Taking stock? If you need a stock price, the Bermuda Stock Exchange (Washington Mall) has a handy Bloomberg screen. n Lost? The Tourism Ministry (Church Street) has free maps and brochures, as does your hotel. Also try the Visitor Information Centre by the ferry terminal on Front Street. n Need knee socks? Get with the programme. Find shorts and long socks at the English Sports Shop or A.S. Cooper’s (both on Front Street). n Java time! Common Ground (Chancery Lane) is a great spot to pause, read the paper, grab a snack. n Staying on: For a weekend with your spouse that you’ll never forget, Cambridge Beaches (Somerset). n

n Teed off? Bermuda has more golf courses per square mile than anywhere else on earth. Port Royal is where the pros play. You can, too. Book early (tel: 234-0974). n Need a new gizmo for the laptop? You’ll find knowledgeable, friendly service and a good range of products at The Complete Office (Reid Street), Computer City (Victoria Street) and the iStore (Reid Street). n Art for art’s sake? Take a break from the boardroom and amble over to the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art in the Botanical Gardens — simply the best. n Bank on Bermuda: Want to open

istock photo

Beats working in a dreary cubicle... guide 31

Your personal invitation to

There are very few places in the world where a town has survived and functioned essentially unchanged through 400 years to the present. There is only one in the New World. This is The Towne of St. George in Bermuda. For all that Bermuda is so noticeably a ‘Different World’ than America our roots are tightly intertwined. In 1609 the ship ‘Sea Venture’ grounded just off St.George in a storm. She was on her way to Jamestown — then a St.Peter’s. The Oldest fledgling settlement — and carried the new Governor of Virginia. functioning Anglican Church in the New These were the first Bermuda residents as it turned out. World. They spent the next year building a new ship to complete their journey. The Deliverance then proceeded on, laden with and food to sail the Chesapeake toand Jamestown Community survivors of St.George Extends this up invitation to our visitors friends to just in own for a day. Community support by the following St.George’s businesses: time to save the settlement from starvation. This is just a glimpse into the profound historical importance of St.George to our American cousins. The relationship continued through the era of the Declaration Deliverance.Built of Independance and later the tragedy of the Civil from scratch by the St.,- the finest War actually continues to this day. shipwreck survivors Robertson’s so much more thanand a ystal and Gifts Churchill’s on York St.Could Brandy Drug Store Prices. and Cigars be perspective anywhere else. From a historical what makes would be the saviour of Jamestown in 1610. St.George so unique is that nearly every building 11 5 3 is original. These are not reconstructions in a theme village, the town The Tucker is genuine in every respect. The 20 plus major buildings protected by House. Nathanial the Bermuuda National Trust in St.George, along with the town’s desTucker’s part in the Gunpowder Plot is ignation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it’s close relationships Blackbeard’s at Achilles Bay: all. Tranquil, Griffin’s Restaurant at the St.Georges not well knowwn. Best Sunset; Best Seafood ! tails, Dinner Club overlooking the Town. Perfect withforJamestown and Colonial Williamsburg all attest to how rare and Lunch, Fabulous for Dinner rn by valuable it is. This is the oldest continuously working settlement in the new world.

Kinder, Gentler Time.




Shopping & Dining Complex on Water Street. Unhurried, (441) 297-2303


and souvenirs & ree Tasting !


32 guide Uncommon 6


The finest in jewellery,



Casual Clothing on York the Square and tickets for the Mini Train Tour.

Shopping & Dining Complex on Water Street.

Flowers to Visitors too !

Glass Cake

1 Unhurried

Delivering Beautiful Flowers to Bermuda and to our Visitors too !

Pier Vu Fashions figurines, crystal and

gifts at guaranteed 4 duty free prices


Fine Art and much more at the Somers Wharf 295-1729 Complex


Belinda Tartaglia Gallery


(441) 297-1929


A 400 year Journey back to

A Kinder, Gentler Time.

A visit to St. George should start at the World Heritage Center where a diorama and short film will set the stage. Self Guided walking tour maps are available there. After that we recommend The Tucker House Museum, The The World Heritage Globe Hotel (and Confederate Museum) and Center. At Penno’s The Globe Hotel. A neighboring St. Peter’s church. Wharf at the Western center of intrigue and end of Water Street — Around noon, keep an eye out in the high politics during the The best place to start Revolutionary and Civil Town Square where gossips are occasionally your visit. wars in America. ducked on the ‘Ducking Stool’. A photograph of a family member in the Public ‘Stocks’ is a must. The small but lovely Somers Garden Park is worth the short stroll if only because of it’s beautiful Traditional Bermuda The Stocks. Minor The Ducking Stool. Thrice offenses against the Moongate arch. A little further will take weekly at noon gossips are public morals were discouraged from their sinful you to the “Unfinished Church” and the punished by exposure to ways in the town square. “Gunpowder Cavern”, both of which have ridicule and tomatoes! A Free attraction. interesting stories attached and Bridge House - the home of a Governor of Virginia in the 1700’s. Nearby too is the Mitchell House, home to the St.George’s Historical Society Museum and the Olde Print Shoppe. Tuesdays are special in St.George. The St.George Historical Bridge House. home We welcome Holland America’s Veendam Society Museum and the to Governor Barrett of Print Shop. passengers as invited guests to the Town Virginia in the 1700’s

with special extended hours and activities and festivities on the square in the evening. Local vendors set up Market Night stalls and offer craftwork souvenirs and local specialty foods. Music or performing arts or dance shows Market Night. an eclectic cross of European Promenade are usually scheduled. While not so organand Country Fair. ised as the ‘Promenade’ evenings common in the Mediterranean this is also a night when Bermudians turn out simply to socialise and see and be seen. Come down, stroll around, eat a fish cake or a hot dog, sit on a bench or a wall and Bermuda Gombeys. simply relax. If buildings could talk you would Street Dancing with hear 400 years of whispers. History and Spice !

Visiting St. George today can start with a morning taxi tour ending in the town in time for lunch or a fabulous ferry ride from Hamilton or the Dockyard. The journey by the famous Pink Bermuda Buses is just as scenic. Lunch can be an early snack at Temptations or the Salad Nicoise at the White Horse Tavern or the Bermuda Fish Sandwich overlooking the Harbour from the Dockside Tavernby-the-Sea. The World Heritage Center can provide walking tour maps from Pilot Darrell’s House to the old Print Shop to Somers Gardens or you can tour the forts from St. Catherine’s to Gates’. Like Bermuda, St. George is an explorer’s delight not a packaged experience. Curiosity and interest are the only necessary equipment for an interesting day. For those who would rather ride than walk, the Mini Train tour is an hour well spent. For the Aquatic among us, bring your snorkel gear and spend a few hours at the beach at Tobacco Bay Achilles Bay or St. Catherine’s Beach ­- refreshments available at Blackbeard’s Restaurant. Shopping is eclectic to say the least: Bermudas own Perfumery; Belinda Tartaglia’s Art Gallery; The National Trust Historic Bookshop; Vera P. Card for Duty Free Savings on Jewelry Figurines and Crystal; Churchill’s for cigars and brandy (and Dark-n-Stormy fixins); Robertson’s Drug store for the usual as well as very unusual confections, toys and children’s books; the Dockyard Glassblowing branch for beautiful Murano Glass and Bermuda Rum Cakes; or the Somers Wharf complex for a little bit of everything. When was the last time you gave her flowers only because the sun was shining? - The East End Flower Alley is your chance. After all that - Stay for the Evening - relax a while and ease into an alfresco dinner looking over beautiful St. George Harbour from Griffins at the St. Georges Club. A relaxed cab ride home is the perfect ending. Unhurried Unspoiled Uncommon.


Hand made Glass art and souvenirs & Bermuda Rum Cake Free Tasting!

By the SEA says it all. Tranquil, beautiful; Lunch, cocktails, dinner

The Tavern by the Sea

Dockside Glass & Rum Cake (441) 297-3809

The Unfinished Church. Originally planned as the Cathedral in the Capital. Victim of Political Intrigue.

The Towne of St. George


(441) 297-3305


Griffin’s Bistro

So much more than a Drug Store

(441) 297-1828


Perfect for lunch, fabulous for dinner (441) 297-4235

Blackbeard’s at Achilles Bay. Best sunset; best seafood!


at the St. George’s Club overlooking the Town.

Uncommon 1

on York Street. Could brandy and cigars be anywhere else. (441) 297-1650

Belinda Tartaglia Gallery

Casual Clothing on York St. at the Square and tickets for the Mini Train Tour.

Fine art and much more at the Somers Wharf Complex

Pier Vu Fashions 3

(441) 297-1400

Written and designed by the businesses of St. George’s and on behalf of the entire community, who extend a warm invitation to visit our town for a day.


(441) 297-4299


(441) 297-0909




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1-17 See St. George’s Map, page 34 18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House 21 Great Head National Park 22 St. David’s Lighthouse 23-27 Bailey’s Bay — See page 38 28 Bermuda Railway Museum 29 Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo 30 Flatt’s Bridge 31 Devil’s Hole Aquarium 32 Spittal Pond 33 Verdmont 34 Palm Grove 35 Montpelier Arboretum 36 King Edward VII Hospital 37 Botanical Gardens 38 Camden 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art

40 Waterville 41 Paget Marsh 42-55 See Hamilton Map, page 42 56 Fort Hamilton 57 Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute 58 Johnny Barnes Statue 59 Government House 60 Warwick Pond 61 Christ Church 62 Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse 63 Somerset Bridge 64 Scaur Hill Fort 65 Heydon Trust 66 St. James’ Church 67 Springfield Community Centre & Gilbert Nature Reserve 68 Somerset Village 69-75 See Dockyard Map, page 46 71 National Museum of Bermuda

see the sights

Let Johnny lead the way Using our maps

photo by kageaki smith

Good morning! The always-cheery Johnny Barnes, Bermuda’s goodwill ambassador.

He’s the ultimate ‘morning

It’s easy to find your way around Bermuda. There are four main arteries: South Road runs along the south shore, North Shore Road hugs the north shore, Middle Road runs through the centre of the island and Harbour Road follows the inner harbour across from Hamilton. Each road brings you into the city of Hamilton. Key attractions are numbered on our maps and described in the text. Use our large pullout map (between pages 32 & 33) for an island overview; for a map of St. George’s, see page 34, the city of Hamilton on 42, and Dockyard on 48. Also, ‘W’ at the end of a listing denotes ‘wheelchair accessible’.

person’ and a warm greeting from folk hero Johnny Barnes is the ideal way to start your sightseeing tour. Every weekday he’s at Crow Lane roundabout from 6am to 10am, showering city commuters with waves, blown kisses and a smile that could melt the heart of even the most jaded traveller. We begin our tour in the historic former capital, St. George’s. Wherever you go, don’t forget to greet all you meet: as Johnny reminds us each morning — it’s the Bermuda way!

Parishes In 1610, Admiral Sir George Somers, a survivor of the wreck of the Sea Venture (which carried our first settlers), returned to Bermuda to obtain food for the starving Virginia colony. By 1615 the Somers Island Company was developing Bermuda and exploiting her natural resources. The island was surveyed and what is now St. George’s Parish was set aside as public or company land. The remainder was divided into eight tribes or parishes, named after the principal shareholders in the Somers Island Company. These were, from east to west: Hamilton, Smith’s, Devonshire, Pembroke, Paget, Warwick, Southampton and Sandys. Along with St. George’s, they have become the nine parishes of Bermuda. guide 33

see the sights

Mark Twain: “I’d rather go to Bermuda.” 13 14

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Penno’s Wharf

ST. GEORGE’S PARISH Bermuda’s oldest town, St. George’s, was settled in 1609-10 and became a World Heritage Site in 2000. It was our capital from 1612 until 1815, when Hamilton became the capital. 1-17 are on our detailed map above. 1 St. Peter’s Church, Duke of York St., is the oldest Anglican church in the New World still in use. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm, Services Wed 7:30am, Sun 11:15am. Suggested donation of $5 per adult. Call ahead for group visits. Tel: 297-2459 2 Bermuda National Trust Museum at the Globe Hotel, corner Duke of York St & King’s Square. Built by Governor

34 guide

Samuel Day, circa 1700. The offices of the Confederate agent, Major Norman Walker, were housed here during the American Civil War (1861-1865). The museum highlights Bermuda’s American Civil War involvement along with a video presentation ‘Bermuda: Centre of the Atlantic’. Open Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat 10am-4pm. Tel: 236-6483 to confirm. Closed on Public Holidays. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. Gift Shop. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 3 Tucker House, Water Street. Built in the 1750s. Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council, moved here in 1775 and his family stayed until 1809. On view are

see the sights

Winter water temp. averages 68°F.

antique heirlooms from one of Bermuda’s oldest families and also a room furnished as a tribute to Joseph Rainey, the first black man to be seated in the U.S. House of Representatives. The cellar houses are a permanent archaeological exhibit. Open Tue, Wed, Thur 10am-2pm. Tel: 236-6483 to confirm. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 4 St. George’s Post Office, open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. Tel: 297-1610 5 World Heritage Centre, at Penno’s Wharf in the Queen’s Warehouse, circa 1860. History is brought to life through the St. George’s Foundation’s restoration of this building. Enjoy the Orientation Exhibits Gallery, ‘A Gateway to Bermuda’. For opening hours Tel: 297 8043 or 297-5791. W (wheelchair accessible) 6 Stocks & Pillory and the Ducking Stool re-enactment at King’s Square. See the ‘gossiping wench’ get ducked in the harbour. Noon on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thurs & Saturdays. 7 Deliverance, a full-scale replica of the Bermuda-built barque, located across the bridge from King’s Square on Ordnance Island. For opening hours tel: 297-8043. 8 Town Hall, facing King’s Square, the

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Is she or isn’t she? A suspected gossiping wench is ducked into the water. See No.6, above.

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meeting place of the Corporation of St. George’s. Open 9am-4pm, Mon-Sat except holidays. W 9 State House, above and behind the Town Hall, one of the oldest stone buildings on the island, dating from 1620. Originally the seat of government, now a masonic lodge. 10 The Bermudian Heritage Museum, junction of York & Water streets, showcases accomplishments of black Bermudians. Open Tues-Fri, 10am-3 pm. Tel: 297-4126 11 St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden, Featherbed Alley. This historic house, a museum since 1922, features cedar furniture, paintings, and other local relics along with a replica of an early 15th-century Gutenberg press. Open Mon-Thur & Sat, 10am-4 pm. Adults $5, children $2. Tel: 297-0423 12 The Old Rectory, Broad Alley, behind St. Peter’s Church. Captain George Dew built this Bermuda cottage circa 1699. Architecturally it shows similarities to buildings of the same period in the U.S. State of Virginia. A private residence owned by the Bermuda National Trust. Exterior viewing only. Tel: 236-6483 13 Unfinished Church. Top of Duke of Kent St. This magnificent Gothic structure was meant to be a replacement for St. Peter’s Church. Started in the 1870s it was beset by financial difficulties, parish infighting and a damaging storm. It was abandoned on the eve of its completion. 14 Fort St. Catherine, off Barry Road. 19th century fort contains cannon, guns, military exhibits. Open Mon-Fri, 9:30am4pm. Adults $7, children 5 to 15, $3 (must be accompanied by an adult), seniors $5. Tel: 297-1920 W 15 Gates Fort dates from the early 17th century. Originally a small sea battery of three guns. Open during daylight hours. 16 Somers Garden, Duke of York Street. Admiral Sir George Somers was shipwrecked on a reef before settlement. When he died in Bermuda his heart was buried

see the sights

Bermuda’s annual rainfall is 56 inches. HAMILTON PARISH

Photo by Jamie MacMillan

Limestone wonderland: The Crystal Caves have been enchanting visitors for decades. See No.25, right.

here and his body was taken to England. Open daily 7:30am-4:30pm 17 The Bermuda Perfumery is located in historic Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street. For more than 80 years, the Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing perfumes and all are made on the premises. Take a free tour and sample unique fragrances. Open Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm. Tel: 293-0627 Refer to the large pullout map. 18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences, Ferry Reach. On Wednesdays at 10am, visit this world-renowned research station. Take a free tour of the laboratories, grounds and learn about ongoing projects. Tel: 297-1880 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House. An historic old stone structure built by one of Bermuda’s first settlers around 1640. Admission $2. For opening hours Tel: 293-5960 21 Great Head National Park. At the end of Battery Road, St. David’s, lies a 20th century abandoned fortification surrounded by open spaces, plus a Lost at Sea Memorial. 22 St. David’s Lighthouse. Stands at the top of Lighthouse Hill Road. Open certain weekdays; for the Park Ranger, Tel: 2365902.

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Named after James Hamilton, second Marquis of Hamilton, an original member of Somers islands Company. Refer to the large pullout map. 23 After leaving the Causeway go up Blue Hole Hill to the junction of Wilkinson Ave & North Shore Rd. You are now in Bailey’s Bay. 24 Blue Hole Hill Park. Located just over the Causeway, the park joins Walsingham Nature Reserve and provides an excellent walking trail. 25 Crystal Caves, 8 Crystal Caves Rd, Hamilton Parish. Formed more than 30 million years ago, Crystal Cave Road was discovered in 1905 when 14-year-old Bernard Wilkinson stumbled upon a cave opening. He was later lowered down the 140-foot drop where he saw the magnificent crystal stalactites and stalagmites that surround a clear 55-foot deep lake. Tours 9:30am4:30pm year round. One cave, adults $20, children (under 13) $8, (under 5) free. Combination tickets, adults $27, children (under 13) $10, (under five) free. Last combination tour starts 3.45pm. Tel: 293-0640 26 Holy Trinity Church, Trinity Church Road. The Anglican Church of Hamilton Parish offers a scenic and tranquil respite from sightseeing. 27 Tom Moore’s Jungle, Bailey’s Bay. Woods surrounding Tom Moore’s Tavern are a must for nature lovers. The poet Tom Moore spent happy hours writing his verses here. Tours are available for groups via the Parks Dept., Tel: 236-5902 or 293-1785. 28 Bermuda Railway Museum and Curiosity Shop. Learn the full history of our long-defunct railway. The gift shop features antiques and artefacts. For opening hours Tel: 293-1774.

SMITH’S PARISH Named after one of the nine chief investors of the Somers Isles (Bermuda) Company, Sir Thomas Smith.

see the sights

Hamilton is Bermuda’s only city.

Refer to the large pullout map. 29 The Bermuda Aquarium, Museum

& Zoo boasts native fish, exotic reptiles, free-flying birds, and pink flamingos in a beautiful, colourful setting. Exhibits include ‘North Rock’, a 140,000-gallon 
replica of a local living coral reef, and ‘Islands of Australasia’, the interactive ‘Discovery Cove’ and scenic ‘Coastal Walkway’. The Natural History Museum focuses on the island’s geology, native biodiversity and habitats. Open daily 9am-5pm. (last admission 4pm). Adults $10, children (5-12 years) $5. Tel: 293-2727 W 30 Flatts Bridge. Wander across to quaint Flatts Village with its magnificent views of the Inlet and Harrington Sound. 31 Devil’s Hole Aquarium, Harrington Sound Road: Bermuda’s oldest attraction features a natural aquarium where you can see a 75-year-old turtle and try to catch a large fish. Open daily. Adults $10, children under 12 $5, seniors $5. Tel. 293-2072 32 Spittal Pond, South Road, this 64-acre reserve is part of a necklace of wetlands along the south shore, providing a diversity of habitats and a wide variety of birds, especially during migration seasons. Owned by Bermuda National Trust and Government’s Parks Dept. Open daily dawn to dusk, admission free. Tel: 236-6483

Photo by KAgeaki Smith

This way, fellas! Turtles are among the many attractions at the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum and Zoo. See No. 29, above.

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33 Verdmont, corner of Collector’s Hill & Sayle Road. A National Trust museum built about 1710 in the Georgian style, Verdmont houses our finest collection of antique Bermuda cedar furniture, porcelain, portraits, children’s furniture and toys. A new exhibit highlights the people who lived at Verdmont. Open Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat 10am-4pm. Closed holidays. Adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all three museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). Tel: 236-6483.

DEVONSHIRE PARISH Named after William Cavendish, 1st Earl of Devonshire. Refer to the large pullout map. 34 Palm Grove, South Road. Wellmanicured private estate has an unusual bas-relief ‘water map’ of Bermuda, an aviary and many varieties of palms. Open Mon-Thur 9am-5pm (closed holidays). 35 Montpelier Arboretum, Middle Road. A tranquil retreat featuring a wide range of island trees and plants.

PAGET PARISH Named after William Paget, 4th Baron Paget de Beaudesert. Refer to the large pullout map. 36 King Edward VII Memorial Hospital, Point Finger Road. See page 68. Tel: 2362345 37 Botanical Gardens, Berry Hill, Point Finger & South roads. Open daily sunrise to sunset. Enjoy hundreds of well-marked flowers, shrubs and trees. Admission free. On Tue, Wed & Fri mornings free tours at 10:30am, departing from the car park outside the entrance to the Visitors’ Centre, weather permitting. Tearoom & gift shop open Mon-Fri 9:30am-3:30pm & Sat 10am2pm. To confirm, Tel: 236-5291 38 Camden, South Road, in the grounds of the Botanical Gardens. Official residence of the Premier, used for official functions









A Royal Outing Join us in celebrating our 200th anniversary this year! Built by Royal decree to defend British superiority on the seas, the Royal Naval Dockyard is today a resplendent place of discovery. Within the walls of this nineteenth century fortress where troops once marched, today there are lawns, flower lined lanes and a quaint shopping mall. Where once all was war readiness, now exists an invitation to adventure. Here at Bermuda’s western-most point, where ships of war once dropped anchor, is an entertainment complex of shops, restaurants and attractions. Where ships were built is the Bermuda Clayworks. Where once were stored kegs of gun powder is the fascinating Bermuda Maritime Museum. Where once rang out the Cooper’s hammer

and forges burned is now the lively Frog & Onion Pub, the Neptune movie Cinema, Bermuda Arts Centre and Crafts Market featuring the works of local artisans and fine artists. The commanding Clocktower, built in 1857, formally the Naval store and office of the Captain-in-charge, is now an arcade of unique shops with everything from clothes to designer accessories, books to Bermuda prints and original artworks, fine jewellery to fine linens, china, crystal and gifts. Have a light lunch at Café Amici, or a memorable feast, indoors or out at the Bonefish Bar and Grill. Elsewhere in Dockyard, enjoy swimming with the dolphins or simply sit and enjoy their beauty, take part in guided walks or explore the underwater beauty while snorkeling at the Snorkel Park, board a pleasure craft

and experience deep sea scuba diving and Bermuda’s shipwrecks. What’s more, today’s Royal Naval Dockyard, true to tradition, still offers full marina facilities. Stroll along the docks and admire the ocean going yachts and visiting tall ships alongside the floating finger piers. Gaze at the Spirit of Bermuda and learn more about the Bermuda Sloop Foundation and its sail training programmes. By day light or moon light, there is so much to discover. Make time for an outing to the West End...Discover the Royal Naval Dockyard...Bermuda’s only Royal Outing!

w w w. t h e w e s t e n d . b m


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oad ille R La-V Par-

ud Berm





Chamber of Commerce

Ferry Terminal

Albouys Point

Royal POINT Bermuda Yacht Club PLEASANT 43


Queen Street

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treet Front S

Bus Terminal

Burnaby Street

ay Ro 42 Pitts B

Wesley Street

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No 6 Passenger Terminal

Reid Street

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Church Street


Victoria Street

H.M. Customs



The Cabinet Building

Sessions House


Dept. of Tourism

Front Street

Reid Street



57-58 Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute

Fort Hamilton

d py Valley Roa

Fire Department

Ha p

King Street


Church Street



Dundonald Street

Court Street


City Hall

Victoria Street

Park Road

Dundonald Street King Street

Historical Society Museum

I Visitor Information Centre

T Taxi


see the sights Bermuda is 650 miles off Cape Hatteras.


Explore two floors of interactive exhibits



about cutting edge marine technology

a simulated shark attack


Bermuda’s greatest mystery, the missing Tucker Cross




then and now


one of the world’s largest shell collections


Located near Hamilton, on East Broadway. Bus Routes 1,3,7,& 8. Open 7 days a week. • 441.292.7219

Great for all ages!

see the sights

We have no streams or rivers.

only. Open Tues & Fri noon-2pm, weather permitting. 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Permanent collection includes Bermuda inspired work by Winslow Homer and Georgia O’Keeffe, plus changing exhibits. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, closed public holidays. Adults $5, children under 12 free. Tel: 236-2950 W 40 Waterville. An elegant house, built circa 1725, now the HQ of the National Trust. See the Bermuda Rose Society’s showcase garden and the Mary-Jean Mitchell Green Memorial Garden & Gazebo. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, admission free. Tel: 236-6483 41 Paget Marsh and Boardwalk, Paget Parish. Lush 25-acre nature reserve, a joint project of the Bermuda National Trust & Bermuda Audubon Society. The pond and marsh attract many birds. Open daily, daylight hours, free. Tel: 236-6483

PEMBROKE PARISH Home of our capital city of Hamilton since

Located at The Bermuda Maritime Museum in the Royal Naval Dockyard. Call 441.234.4464 or visit to make a reservation. Bermuda • Hawaii • Oahu A portion of the proceeds from Dolphin Quest supports vital marine education, conservation and research.

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1815. Refer to large pullout map and see our detailed City Map on page 42. 42 Barr’s Bay Park, on Hamilton Harbour beside the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club on Pitt’s Bay Road. Sit in the sun and watch the boats sail by. W 43 Point Pleasant Park by the waterfront, Albuoys Point, next to the Ferry Terminal. Relax on a bench, bring a picnic lunch. W 44 The Birdcage, a photogenic traffic kiosk at the corner of Front & Queen streets. 45 Perot Post Office, Queen Street. An architectural gem and a handy spot to buy stamps, transport passes, tickets and tokens. Credit cards accepted. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm W 46 Bermuda National Public Library & Historical Society Museum, Queen Street. Set in the gardens of Par-la-Ville Park. Library open Mon-Thurs 8:30am-7pm (July & Aug until 6pm), Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 9am5pm, Sun 1pm-5pm (closed Sun in July and Aug). Tel: 295-2905. Museum open 10am2pm Mon-Fri (May–Oct); 10:30am–1pm Mon, Tues, Wed, Fri (Nov–April) closed holidays. Free. Tel: 295-2487 W 47 City Hall, 17 Church Street, one of Hamilton’s most beautiful public buildings. Houses City Hall Theatre, the Mayor’s Parlour and Corporation of Hamilton offices and the Bermuda National Gallery (tel: 295-9428), featuring both historic and contemporary local and international art. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Guided tours Thursdays, 10:30am. Free. Also home to the Bermuda Society of Arts Gallery, which hosts rotating exhibitions. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Free. Tel: 292-3824 W 48 Central Bus Terminal, Washington Street, close to City Hall. All routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave from here. See page 67 49 Par-la-Ville Park, Queen Street, Hamilton. A haven for relaxation in the middle of

see the sights

Bermuda’s capital city, Hamilton, is

our bustling city. 50 Victoria Park, Cedar Avenue. Lovely park created in the 1880s to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. 51 Anglican Cathedral, Church Street, a neo-Gothic city landmark. Open 7:30am5pm. The cathedral tower, with panoramic views of the city, is open 9am-4pm Mon-Fri. Audio tours $3, tower entry $3. Tel: 292-4033 W 52 General Post Office, corner of Parliament & Church streets. Open Mon-Fri 8am5pm, Sat 8am-noon W 53 Sessions House & Jubilee Clock Tower. The House of Assembly (our mini House of Commons) meets Fridays at 10am. Visitors are permitted in the gallery; dress appropriately. Tel: 292-7408. The Supreme Court is located on the lower floor of the Sessions House. Visitors are permitted. Tel: 292-1350 W 54 The Cabinet Building, Front and Parliament streets. Here the Senate (our upper house) meets Wednesdays at 10am. Visitors

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are permitted. Fronted by the Cenotaph on Front Street, a memorial to war veterans.
Tel: 292-5501 55 Bermuda National Library Youth Division, 74 Church Street. Open Mon-Thurs & Sat 9am-5pm, Fri 10am-5pm. Tel: 295-0487 56 Fort Hamilton, approached by Victoria and King streets and Happy Valley Road. A restored fort, its moat is filled with native plants and shrubs. Spectacular views of the city and harbour. Open daily 9am-5pm. Free. W 57 The Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI), a 10-minute walk from the city centre on East Broadway. Features two floors of interactive exhibits revealing the mysteries of the ocean. Experience deepsea exploration through the eyes of worldrenowned explorers including Bermuda’s own Teddy Tucker. See artefacts and treasure recovered from shipwrecks around Bermuda. Gift shop and waterside restaurant, The Harbourfront. Open Mon–Fri 9am-

antipode to Perth, Western Australia. 5pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5pm. Last admission 4pm. Members free, adults $12.50, seniors $10, children (7-16) $6, children (under 6) free. Tel: 297-7314 W 58 Johnny Barnes Statue. Just down the road from the BUEI, a life-size statue of our unofficial ambassador of goodwill, Johnny Barnes (see page 33), by sculptor Desmond Fountain. 59 Government House, North Shore Road & Langton Hill. The imposing residence of His Excellency the Governor.

WARWICK PARISH Centrally located with many beautiful beaches along the South Shore. Refer to the large pullout map. 60 Warwick Pond. Take a walk on the interpretive woodland nature trail in this nine-acre nature reserve, with Bermuda’s second largest freshwater pond. Open daylight hours. 61 Christ Church, historic Presbyterian Church of Scotland dating back to 1719, one of the oldest in the western hemisphere.

see the sights

65 Heydon Trust, 43 acres of meticulously preserved grounds, filled with indigenous plants. The tiny, exquisite chapel was built in the 1620s. Open daily, dawn till dusk, free. 66 St. James’ Church, the Anglican church of Somerset, has a graceful spire and imposing walkway. 67 Springfield Community Centre & Gilbert Nature Reserve, Somerset. This National Trust Property once comprised a small plantation. Springfield, the old mansion with buttery and slave quarters dates back to 1740. Five acres of walking trails. 68 Somerset Village overlooks charming Mangrove Bay. Stop for a meal or some shopping. 69 Enter the Royal Naval Dockyard through stone gates. This major attraction includes the National Museum of Bermuda, Clocktower Mall, Craft Market, the Bermuda Arts Centre and restaurants — all housed in restored naval buildings.

SOUTHAMPTON PARISH Boasts many beaches including the most popular, Horseshoe Bay Beach. Refer to the large pullout map. 62 Gibbs Hill Lighthouse provides panoramic views and there’s a restaurant, too, The Dining Room. Lighthouse open daily 9am-4:30pm. Adults $2.50, children (4 and under) free. Tel: 238-0524

SANDYS PARISH (Somerset) The western-most parish, made up of five islands. Refer to the large pullout map. 63 Somerset Bridge is the smallest drawbridge in the world; just wide enough to let the mast of a sailboat pass through. 64 Scaur Hill Fort, Somerset Road. Enjoy breathtaking views of the Great Sound and Ely’s Harbour. Open daily 7:30am-4pm, free. Grounds open 24 hours. Tel: 234-0908 guide 47

see the sights

Just wide enough for a mast, Somerset

Royal Naval Dockyard T Taxi

Dockyard Glassworks & Bermuda Rum Cake Company

Bermuda Clayworks

Snorkel Park Beach


Maritime Lane

Storehouse Lane


75 Clocktower Shopping Mall

69 Watersports Centre


Victualling Yard



Cloc ktow er P arad e

Bermuda Arts Centre

Camber Road




Bermuda Craft Market

Commissioner’s House

National Museum of Bermuda

Visitor Information Centre

Dolphin Quest



No rth

Dockyard Marina


Ferry Stop

Visitor Information Centre

Cruise Ship Terminal


Visitor Information Centre

70 Dockyard Visitor Information Centre is near the fast ferry dock. Open daily, 9am5pm. Tel: 799-4842 71 The National Museum of Bermuda includes the Commissioner’s House, which exhibits our rich nautical history and

Photo by Kageaki Smith

The splendid Clocktower Mall, Dockyard.

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extensive artefact collections. Open daily, 9:30am-5pm, last admission 4pm. Adults $10, senior citizens $8 and children (5-15) $5, under 5 free, if accompanied by an adult. Tel: 234-1418 72 Dolphin Quest Bermuda, Dockyard. Enjoy an extraordinary encounter with dolphins. Open 9:30am-4:30pm daily. Reservations required. 
Tel: 234-4464 or toll free 800-248-3316 73 The Craft Market in the Old Cooperage features Bermuda cedar work, candle and jewellery making, pottery, banana dolls and many other crafts, with demonstrations by local artisans. Open daily 10am-5pm and until 8pm when cruise ships are in port. Tel: 234-3208 W 74 The Bermuda Arts Centre features studios housing various artists which change every few weeks. A shop offers an extensive range of locally made gifts, paintings, sculptures and a wide print selection. Open daily 10am-5pm (closed Good Friday & Christmas Day). Tel: 234-2809 W 75 Clocktower Shopping Mall boasts a delightful collection of boutiques and branch stores in a charming, covered mall. W

Bridge is the world’s smallest drawbridge.

see the sights

Bus Schedule

Route Fare Leaving Hamilton’s Central Number Zone Bus Terminal (time past the hour)

Airport Aquarium Belmont Hotel Botanical Gardens Caves (Crystal and Leamington) Dockyard Elbow Beach Gibbs Hill Lighthouse Grotto Bay Hotel Horseshoe Bay Beach Hospital Mangrove Bay (Somerset) National Museum of Bermuda Bermuda Perfumery John Smith’s Bay Beach Fairmont Southampton Princess Hotel Town of St. George

1, 3, 10, 11 10 11 8 1, 2, 7 1, 3 7, 8 2, 7 7 1, 3, 10, 11 7 1, 2, 7 7, 8 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11 1 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11

14 00 3 00 3 00 3 00 14 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 14 00 14 00 3 3 00 14 00

15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30

45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45

A great way to see

Bermuda and all its attractions


Public Transportation 26 Palmetto Road Devonshire DV 05 P.O. Box HM 443 Hamilton HM BX, Bermuda

Telephone: (441) 292-3851 Fax: (441) 292-9996 E-Mail: Internet: guide 49

sightseeing Our best historic sites By Lance Furbert | For an island of just 21 square miles, we pack in a lot of history. Bermuda’s superb historic sites and museums help tell our unique story but also help unravel the extraordinary saga of the development of English settlements in the New World. Here are some of our best historic sites. National Museum of Bermuda The largest collection of artifacts and weapons in Bermuda. Slave artifacts, gold bars, jewellery, silver coins, pottery, boats of all kinds and large muzzle loading guns can be seen here. Located at Dockyard. Open daily 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4pm). Tel: 234-1418

Carter House Built more than three centuries ago by the descendants of Christopher Carter, one of two crew members of the shipwrecked Sea Venture who remained in Bermuda when the survivors sailed for Virginia in 1610. Home to the St. David’s Island Historical Society Museum and its exhibitions of whaling, farming and many other aspects of local history and culture. Southside, St. David’s. For opening times, Tel: 293-5960

Bermudian Heritage Museum Located in the Samaritan Lodge Building in St. George’s and part of the African Diaspora Heritage Trail. Exhibits mark the accomplishments of black people in Bermuda, the story of the slave ship Enterprise

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Photo by Kageaki Smith

The magnificently restored Commissioner’s House at the National Museum of Bermuda houses some of our most treasured artifacts.

and a history of the Friendly Societies. Open Tue-Fri, 10am-3pm. Tel: 297-4126

National Trust Museum The Globe Hotel on the northwest corner of King’s Square in St. George’s was bult in 1700 by Governor Samuel Day as our second Government House. It now houses the Bermuda National Trust Museum, which features the exhibit ‘Rogues & Runners — Bermuda and the American Civil War’. Open Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am-4pm. Tel: 236-6483

Verdmont A delightful Georgian style historic home at the top of Collector’s Hill, Smith’s Parish. A superb collection of antique Bermuda cedar and mahogany furniture plus an exhibit detailing the history of the house and surrounding farmland. Open Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am-4pm Tel: 236-6483

Bermuda Historical Society Museum Located in Par-la-Ville Park, Hamilton, it was the home of Bermuda’s famous postmaster William Bennet Perot. Exhibits include

what’s on sightseeing

Slavery was abolished in 1834. models of ships associated with Bermuda’s early history such as the Sea Venture, Deliverance and Patience; Sir George Somers’ sea chest and lodestone; plus a collection of early Bermudian coins and silver. Open Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm. Tel: 295-2487

azine, weapons of all types (from pistols to large muzzle loading guns), the British Crown Jewels in replica and an audiovisual presentation on Bermuda’s forts. Open Mon-Fri, 9:30am-4pm. Tel: 297-1920

Tucker House

Built by Governor Nathaniel Butler in 1620. It’s the oldest standing non-military English building in the New World. Surrounded by magnificent historic architecture and quaint streets and alleys — the most historic English neighbourhood in the New World. Just off King’s Square, St. George’s.

The State House

Tucker House, on Water Street, St. George’s, was the home of Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council. Artifacts and portraits of the famous Tucker family include George Tucker of Virginia and Thomas Tudor Tucker, the longest serving treasurer of the U.S. Joseph Hayne Rainey, the first African American elected member of the U.S. House of Representatives, once ran a barber shop in the building. Open Tue, Wed, Thu, 10am2pm. Tel: 236-6483

St. Peter’s Church

The oldest Anglican Church site in continuous use in the western hemisphere. The first church on the site was built by Governor Richard Moore in 1612 and there are many Fort St. Catherine ancient artifacts inside. Some headstones Overlooks Gate’s Bay, St. George’s, the in the churchyard date back more than 300 landing place of the Sea Venture castyears. Duke Of York Street, St. George’s. 1/2 ad:Layout 10:4310am-4pm. AM Page 1 aways in 1609. Features dioramas that 2 3/1/10 Open Mon-Sat, Services Wed highlight our early history, a restored mag7:30am, Sun 11:15am. Tel: 297-2459 n

National Treasure Bermuda Maritime Museum is now the NATIONAL MUSEUM OF BERMUDA, home to 500 years of Island culture and history. Explore exciting exhibits in our historic military buildings— and watch for many more as we grow!

Royal Naval Dockyard, Sandys Tel. 441-234-1418 • Open every day 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4pm)


Incorporating BERMUDA MARITIME MUSEUM guide 51

real estate The St. George’s Club

Photo by kageaki smith

The charming St. George’s Club, which offers timeshare opportunities.

Own a bit of ‘The Rock’ Many visitors, seduced by our subtropical climate, historic charm and pink sand beaches, return to Bermuda year after year. Americans in particular often seek to make the relationship a little more permanent, through timeshares or fractional ownership. As a non-Bermudian you are not permitted to buy property outright unless you have more than $5million to spend, so it’s a more affordable way to claim a small piece of ‘The Rock’. And it enables you to share your love of the island with friends and family for generations to come. Prices vary of course but you might get into the market at the $150,000 to $400,000 range. Check with a local realtor through our website,, for more information. Names that will come up include The Reefs Club, Tucker’s Point Club, Newstead Belmont Hill Golf Resort and Spa — and The St. George’s Club.

Are you dreaming of a Bermuda family holiday? Well, The St. George’s Club can make that dream an affordable reality. Overlooking the historic Town of St. George and the quaint harbour, its clusters of one-bedroom and two-bedroom cottages offer all the comforts of home. Fully equipped kitchens make home cooking possible – and an onsite grocery means shopping is close to hand. Don’t feel like cooking? Griffin’s Bistro in the main clubhouse is known for its excellent international cuisine, or dine at Blackbeard’s Hideout the beachside restaurant and bar. Three swimming pools, one heated and one with a pool bar are situated in beautifully manicured and spacious grounds. If you prefer the beach, the complimentary shuttle can take you to The Club’s secluded Achilles Bay. Facilities for the more energetic include three tennis courts, one lit for night play, and a fitness centre. The surrounding Golf Course is currently closed but is to be redesigned by Nick Faldo . Golf enthusiasts can also enjoy privileges at the challenging Riddell’s Bay Golf Course in Southampton. The bus stop is within close walking distance and the fast ferry to Dockyard and Hamilton is also nearby. You can also explore at your own pace by renting a scooter from the onsite cycle livery. The Club is an RCI Gold Crown Resort which allows members great exchange options at any of RCI’s nearly 4,000 worldwide resort hotels. New members will also be enrolled in The Club’s private travel and cruise programme. To learn more, call 297-1222 or visit n

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3/1/10 12:39 PM

The Riddell’s Bay

Golf &Country Club

Bermuda’s most historic golf course

HOLE YDS PAR HOLE YDS PAR 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

424 354 138 282 370 351 479 360 247

4 4 3 4 4 4 5 4 4

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

340 114 392 359 366 389 382 181 326

4 3 4 4 4 4 4 14 4

OUT 3,005 36


2,849 34

OUT 3,005 36 TOTAL 5,854 70

to reserve your time call 238-3225 or e-mail

warwick bermuda | tel: (441) 238-1060 |

sports & activities

Photo by Jamie Macmillan

The superb golf course at Riddell’s Bay has been testing players for more than 100 years.

Enjoy the great outdoors By james Whittaker | If you’re the ourdoors type, you’ve chosen the right spot. There’s no shortage of opportunities for the active visitor. Here’s our quick guide to what’s out there.

n Golf Bermuda has more golf courses per square mile than any other country in the world. Some courses are private but many hotels can introduce their guests to these clubs and arrange tee times. See the next two pages.

n Tennis Most courts are attached to hotels but another option is to play at the government-run tennis stadium, which has both clay and hard courts. It’s on Marsh Folly Road, a 10-minute walk from the centre of Hamilton. Open 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat-Sun and courts

Riddell’s Bay Golf & Country Club Located at the southern end of the island in Warwick, it holds the title of oldest course in Bermuda. Golfers who leave Riddell’s talk about the wonderful views, the shot-maker golf course, the beautiful gardens, the friendly service and sometimes even the golf balls left behind in the Great Sound. Playing Riddell’s is just one of those ‘must dos’ when in Bermuda. Tel: 238-3225 •

are $10 an hour (double it under floodlights). Tel: 292-0105 to book a court (though they won’t reserve it more than two days in advance of your game).

n Water sports Whether it’s an exciting ride on a jet ski or a gentle paddle around our hidden coves on a kayak, you’ll want to get out — continues on page 58 guide 55

sports & activities

JFK fell off while riding his moped HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 339 386 378 115 368 470 178 329 326

PAR 4 4 4 3 4 5 3 4 4

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 329 172 533 344 350 436 385 167 412

PAR 4 3 5 4 4 4 4 3 4










TOTAL 6,017


BELMONT HILLS GOLF COURSE Overlooking Bermuda’s famous turquoise sea Belmont Hills Golf Club features Bermuda’s first ever championship golf course combined with a first class teaching facility. Belmont Hills Golf Club recently received the Bermuda Gold, Best of Bermuda Awards for the “best place to play a round of golf.” HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 438 567 148 458 380 370 517 213 383

PAR 4 5 3 4 4 4 5 3 4

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 350 443 383 235 393 412 235 507 410

PAR 4 4 4 3 4 4 3 5 4










TOTAL 6,842


PORT ROYAL GOLF COURSE Owned / Operated by the Bermuda Government

Port Royal is the longest course in Bermuda and offers a great challenge for all who play it. With its spectacular views of the ocean it is a course not to be missed by visitors. After a round of golf, relax at Port Royal’s 64º Restaurant and watch the sunset to round off a perfect day in paradise.

56 guide

on sports & what’s activities

on Burnt House Hill in 1953.

HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 469 151 360 355 500 387 190 336 192

TOTAL 2,940

PAR 5 3 4 4 5 4 3 4 3 35

OCEAN VIEW GOLF COURSE Owned / Operated by the Bermuda Government

This superbly challenging course has proven to be as competitive as it is picturesque. The elevated, central location offers wide North Shore vistas. With 18 tee positions, you’ll want to add a second nine to your conquest of the first. Website:

HOLE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

YDS 152 145 142 178 183 110 133 149 126

PAR 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3

HOLE 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

YDS 135 113 128 126 211 141 174 150 188

PAR 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3










TOTAL 2,684



Bermuda’s only 18 hole par 3 course was designed by Theodore G. Robinson and was rated four-star by Golf Digest’s best places to play. The average playing time is under three hours, with every iron in the bag being called into play over a hilly, panoramic ocean-view layout. guide 57

sports & activities

The waters off Bermuda are home — from page 55

Baxter’s Reef Fishing

on the water.

‘Life on the ocean wave’ is guaranteed to be great fun with Capt. Baxter aboard his 32–foot Cape Islander Ellen B. Apply the catch and release method or take your catch home for supper! Ellen B is well equipped to accommodate the whole family, complete with ample awning on hot days and complimentary sodas. The captain, with more than 20 years experience on the spectacular Barrier Reef, will display his expertise and show even the ‘amateurs’ how to catch a fish! You may enjoy a half-day or a full-day fishing. Parties of up to 10 can be arranged. Capt. Baxter is always happy to oblige smaller parties by joining up with other small groups. Departing daily from Mangrove Bay public dock in Somerset. Tel: 234-2963 • Tel: 334-9722.

Blue Hole Watersports (tel: 293-2915) runs out of the Grotto Bay Hotel in the east and Fantasea Watersports (tel: 236-1300) at the 9Beaches resort in the west are one-stop shops for rentals. Kayaks, Boston Whalers, windsurfers and Hobie Cats are the most popular. For jet skis try KS Watersports (tel: 2384155) or the Fairmont Southampton (tel: 238-8000).

58 guide

n Diving Our coral reefs have been a graveyard for ships for centuries. From Civil War blockade-runners to a B-29 airplane, this is the wreck capital of the Atlantic and a mecca for scuba divers. See page 63 for more on shipwrecks plus dive operator listings. Beginners welcome.

for more than 650 species of fish. n Deep sea fishing With the deep ocean just offshore, Bermuda offers world class fishing. There are lots of pros ready to take you out — among them, Baxter’s Reef Fishing (tel: 234-2963). Visit www. for more listings.

n Cycling Our coastal roads and the route of the old railway trail are great for bikers. You can hire bicycles at Wheels (tel: 292-2245) and Oleander (tel: 236-5235), both have numerous outlets.

n Rock climbing Test your skills on the Rock Climbing Wall at the Olympic Club, Dundonald Street, Hamilton. Open daily (tel: 292-4095).

n Bowling For a rainy day or a family evening out,

on sports & what’s activities

Hartley’s Reef Safari Having some advantages over scuba diving and many over snorkeling, helmet diving is the safest and easiest way to explore the marine environment. The undersea walk was started by Bronson Hartley in the 1930s. Off Somerset, his son Gregory continues the tradition of training and taming fish in the wild. Hold Leroy the snapper or Barack the grouper and see Diana the angelfish swim through a hoop. The helmet works like a glass turned upside down. Your head stays totally dry. You can safely wear glasses or contact lenses. Just breathe, walk and have fun. Tel: 234-2861.

try Warwick Lanes in Warwick (tel: 236-5290) or Southside Family Bowl (tel: 293-5906) in St David’s. n guide 59


Where ‘The Deep’ was filmed By LEANNE McGRATH | There’s

no denying Bermuda’s beauty — and her sunkissed shores have even caught the eye of Hollywood. A string of movies and TV shows have been filmed on the island, the most famous being 1977 blockbuster The Deep. Starring Nick Nolte, Jacqueline Bisset and Robert Shaw, the $9 million thriller is based on the novel by Jaws author Peter Benchley. The story follows David and Gail (Nolte and Bisset), who scuba dive to a wreck off Bermuda and find an old medallion and an ampule of morphine. Treasure hunter Romer Treece (Shaw) concludes a recent storm exposed the morphine — one of thousands sunk with war ship Goliath — and items from an older Spanish wreck. Meanwhile, a drug kingpin learns of their find and terrorizes them to get the ampules. The story is inspired by Bermudian treasure hunter Teddy Tucker, who befriended Benchley when he visited the island to write a story for National 60 guide

Star power: Nick Nolte and Jacqueline Bisset seen here in Bermuda during the filming of the hit movie The Deep.

Geographic. Tucker took him diving to the Constellation, which became Goliath. The ship, which sank in 1943, is one of Bermuda’s most popular dive sites and is home to octopus, barracuda and, of course, eel (see page 63). A monstrous moray attacking Nolte and Shaw is one of the movie’s best scenes and an imitation eel built for filming, nicknamed Percy by the crew, is now housed in the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI). The director of the attraction is Teddy

The fabled Tucker Cross inspired the treasure designed by Van Cleef and Arpels for The Deep. A replica can be viewed in the treasure room of the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute.

Charlie Chaplin spent time in Bermuda. Tucker’s daughter Wendy, who was loaned Percy by Benchley. Eel aside, other memorable moments include Shaw’s lighthouse home blowing up. It was a replica of the one in St. David’s and built across from Ferry Reach, which is close to the Causeway — the starting point for The Deep’s nail-biting bike chase. Nolte and Bisset are pursued by thugs who run them off the road between the high stone walls of Blackwatch Pass. More action was shot at Southlands in Warwick Parish — notably Nolte’s fight with a thug on a beach elevator. Most underwater scenes were filmed in a million-gallon tank in Dockyard — the biggest saltwater tank in the western hemisphere. A wreck was built to scale for it and Teddy Tucker — a consultant on the film — even helped catch the marine life used to fill it. n

what’s on feature

Films and shows shot in BDA Crunch and Des (1955): This TV show focused on a duo who ran a chartered fishing boat. It was filmed at Darrell’s Island in the Great Sound. Bermuda Affair (1956): Friends fall out after one man has an affair with the other’s wife. The Admirable Crichton (1957): A wealthy lord, his family and servants are shipwrecked on a desert island. The Bermuda Depths (1978): A giant turtle and the spirit of a young girl threaten scientists studying the ocean, featuring Rocky star Carl Weathers. Bermuda Grace (1994): A U.S. private detective and an English policeman track a murderer and jewel thief. White Squall (1996): A Ridley Scott adventure, starring Jeff Bridges, about teenage boys on an ill-fated sailing voyage.

! See the artif acts from the wreck that inspired the film

The ‘Constellation’

Discover the story behind it all

BUEI guide 61


Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse was only the 37


34 39







Atlantic Ocean

43 44 1



Royal Naval Dockyard

Somerset Long Bay Mangrove


t in Po lty ish an rk mira p Spanish S Pa Ad se u Point Hoark P

Bay ’




Hawkins Island



ac Be

25. Beaumaris Castle 26. Collector 27. Iristo 28. Elda 29. Taunton 30. Eagle 31. Manilla Wreck 32. Cristobal Colon 33. Curlew


y Ba


These old and more recent wrecks, scattered throughout the 200 square mile reef system that surrounds the island, are protected by law against any unauthorized interference. The more popular dive sites are easily accessed from the island by boat, with an average depth of between 30 17. Katherine 18. Pelinaion 19. Zovetto or Rita Zovetto 20. Sea Venture 21. Wychwood 22. Colonel William G. Ball 23. Richard P. Buck 24. Avenger


ng ay eB


62 guide


10. Minnie Breslauer 11. Pollockshields 12. Apollo 13. Kate 14. Grotto Bay Barges 15. Warwick 16. H.M.S. Cerberus

n Lo

There are some 400 wrecks to be found off Bermuda. The earliest date from the first quarter of the 16th century when the island became a landmark for Spanish ships sailing back to Spain from the New World.


Elbow Beach Coral Beach 7 6 Surfside Beach 9 8 Marley Beach oe

Bermuda’s shipwrecks


Hungry Bay ap Gr




ay rch B

i rw Wa y Ba






1. Drydock 2. Ramona 3. H.M.S. Vixen 4. Minerva 5. Hunters Galley 6. Mari Celeste 7. Virginia Merchant 8. King 9. Hermes



ey Whitnay B hale W t s We Bay











second cast iron lighthouse ever built. 31

Stories of the sea



Five must-visit Bermuda wrecks: 26


25 24 22 Toba cco B Achilles’ Bay ay Fort St. Catherine ST GEORGE’S 23 PARISH Martello Tower Coney Island Airport

Bailey's Bay

Crystal Caves


Castle Island Tucker's Town

Smiths Parish 16 Sm hn Jo ay B





and 50 feet. Listed here are some of the better known wrecks, highlighted in the map above. Note that some wrecks are known by two, three or even four different names. For further information, visit the scuba diving pages on our website: 34. Madiana 35. Alert 36. San Pedro 37. Caraquet 38. Mark Antonio 39. Montana 40. Lartington 41. Constellation 42. Santa Ana 43. L’Herminie

n The Pelinaion (18) – This Greek steamer became a victim of WWII. The British had blacked out St. David’s lighthouse to stop the Germans from spying on Bermuda. But the ship crashed on the reef, where it still lies scattered. n The Cristobel Colon (32) — This Spanish luxury liner is the biggest of Bermuda’s wrecks at 499ft long. Its remains are spread across the North Shore reef. n The Hermes (9) – Extremely popular among divers as it is one of the few wrecks in Bermuda that remains fully intact. It lies in 80 foot of water off the South Shore. n The Constellation (41) – Jaws author Peter Benchley based his follow-up novel ‘The Deep’ around this wreck (see pages 60 & 61), which sank on the South Shore carrying a cargo of morphine and whisky to Venezuela during WWII.

's ith


Fort Popple rwate r Bea ch Turt 19 le Ba y



Shell y HARRINGTON B Beaacy SOUND h Flatts Bridge Devil's Hole


Gate s’ Ba y Town of St. Georges Gates 21 Fort Smith’s 20 Island Fort Cunningham








44. Frenchman 45. Lord Amherst 46. Darlington 47. Mussel 48. San Antonio 49. Blanch King 50. Caesar 51. Airplane 52. North Carolina 53. Triton Ferry

n The H.M.S. Vixen (3) – If you don’t want to take on the challenge of scuba diving, the Vixen lies half submerged in shallow waters off Daniel’s Head, Somerset, and is easily accessible by snorkellers.

Local dive operators Blue Water Divers, Robinson’s Marina, Somerset, tel: 234-1034 & Elbow Beach Hotel 232-2909 Fantasea Bermuda, Albuoy’s Point, Hamilton, tel: 236-1300 Triangle Diving, Grotto Bay, near the airport, tel: 293-7319

Don’t want to get wet? Visit the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute in Hamilton, the National Museum of Bermuda in Dockyard and the replica of the Deliverance in St. George’s. guide 63


Nothing to fear from our bugs, lizards or frogs By ANDREW DOBSON | Like

most other things in Bermuda — groceries, cars, shipwrecked settlers — our wildlife was largely imported, either accidentally or on purpose. There are hundreds of feral cats and feral chickens – but no feral dogs. We have a few rats, of course, but no snakes. Spiders are abundant but generally harmless. The occasional poisonous spider arrives on imported lumber but they rarely bother people. Mosquitoes aren’t a problem and there are few bugs to worry about. To find the mildly venomous nineinch centipede, you would have to turn over a lot of rocks in St. David’s. Try to avoid the Portuguese mano-war, a purple jellyfish that sports long tentacles and causes a painful sting. Sharks are rare in Bermuda waters and there are no records of Photo by Tony McWilliam

Some of our lizards are great climbers and change colour from dark brown to vivid green and striking blue.

shark attacks. One of our most intriguing creatures is the common whistling frog. Their ‘gleep-gleep’ chorus is

64 guide

The cahow is our national bird. particularly vigorous after rainfall on warm evenings and you’ll be amazed that a frog little bigger than your thumbnail can be so audible. Introduced from Jamaica in 1886, they hang out among vegetation in house gardens and parks. But it’s very difficult to spot them, even with a flashlight, and they have the unhelpful habit of falling silent as you get close. Whether you see them or not, their sub-tropical symphony will linger long in your memories of our island. Easier to spot on wet evenings are enormous cane toads, introduced to control cockroaches. Birds are plentiful; about 375 species have been recorded in Bermuda and 20 are resident. Many migrate through the island and more than 100 species are present during the winter, including a variety of ducks, herons and egrets. The graceful white-tailed tropicbird, known locally as the ‘longtail’ is eagerly awaited as the harbinger of spring when it returns to breed along the coastline. You might also see eastern bluebirds but what everyone asks about is ‘the noisy, bright yellow bird’ – the great kiskadee. They were brought in to control the lizard population; anolis lizards, however, are still abundant. Sadly, you are unlikely to see the endemic skink (rock lizard) whose numbers are so low that it is mainly confined to offshore islands. Nor are you likely to see Bermuda’s national bird, the cahow or Bermuda petrel. A marvellous natural history story, it was thought extinct shortly after the arrival of the first settlers, who gratefully ate them! Following the discovery of a few breeding pairs in


Photo by Tony McWilliam

The great kiskadee is found islandwide.

Photo by Tony McWilliam

Heard but not easily seen — the tiny and ubiquitous whistling tree frog.

1951, they’re making a real comeback. It comes to its breeding burrows at night, so the only chance of catching a glimpse is by scanning the ocean off Cooper’s Island at dusk. For more, visit n guide 65


Photo by Tony McWilliam

Flying in and out of Bermuda’s a breeze — and affords great views, too.

What you need to know Your concierge might know an awful lot, but you can’t take him to the beach. Here’s a handy list of things you ought to know. Information provided here is subject to change. For the latest, visit our website:

n Airlines Air Canada Reservations: Tel: 1-888-247-2262. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1777. American Airlines Tel: 1-800-433-7300. British Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-247-9297. Airport customer service: Tel: 293-1944. Continental Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-231-0856. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3092. Delta Airlines Reservations: Tel: 1-800-221-1212.

66 guide

Flight Info: Tel: 293-1024. JETBLUE Tel: 1-800-JETBLUE (538-2583). U.S. Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-622-1015. Flight Info: Tel: 293-3073. USA 3000 Tel: 1-877-872-3000. WestJet Tel: 1-888-WESTJET (937-8538).

n Airport L.F. Wade International Airport (tel: 2932470) is located in St. George’s at the east end of the island. Allow 30 minutes from the city of Hamilton by taxi. Check-in two hours before departure.

n Banks Normally open from 9am to 4pm, Mon-Fri. There are many ATMs across the island.

Shark oil barometers forecast weather.


als and additional visa pages, which may be dropped off. For details, visit the ConsulAll bus routes serving Hamilton arrive ate’s website: http://hamilton.usconsulate. and leave the Bus Terminal on Washinggov. For after-hours life or death emergenton Street. (Refer to number 48 on the cies for American citizens only, contact the Hamilton map on page 42). See page 49 for duty officer at (441) 335-3828. Honorary schedule. Consuls for other countries are also repCash fares require exact change and resented in Bermuda. See the telephone dollar bills are not accepted. Adult cash directory for listings. fare is $3 up to 3 zones, $4.50 for longer journeys. Tokens are $2.50 for 3 zone trips n Communications and $4 for longer trips. Transportation The sophistication of Bermuda’s telecompasses are available: one-day pass $12, munications rivals U.S. and European countwo days $20, three days $28, four days terparts. Our well-developed infrastructure $35, seven days $45 or one month, $55. provides modern telephone, fax, internet, For children (aged 5-16) cash fare is $2 and cellular and cellular-roaming services. transportation passes range from $6 per day up to $22.50 for n Country seven days. Children Codes under five ride free. U.S. & Canada — Tokens, tickets and dial 1 plus area code passes can be used plus no. on both buses or U.K. — ferries and can be dial 011 plus 44 plus bought at ferry terarea code plus no. minals, the central Caribbean — bus terminal, hotels, dial 1 plus area code post offices and Photo by Jamie Macmillan plus seven digits. Visitor Information The bus terminal is next to City Hall, Hamilton. Centres. n Currency & Credit Cards Tel: 292-3851 • The Bermuda dollar is equal in value to the U.S. dollar; both are legal tender here. Travn Business Hours eller’s cheques and credit cards are accepted Stores normally open from 9am to 5pm at most shops, restaurants and hotels. Monday to Saturday. Many grocery stores open 1-5pm on Sunday, most other stores n Dress Code are closed on Sundays. The dress code in Bermuda is conservative. Bathing suits and bare chests are not n Cars acceptable, except at beaches and pools. There are no car rentals available in BerCasual wear is acceptable in restaurants at muda but you can rent scooters and pedal lunchtime, but some upscale restaurants bikes. require men to wear a jacket in the evening. Check the dress requirements when making n Consulate reservations. The U.S. Consulate is located on Crown Hill, 16 Middle Road, Devonshire, tel: 295-1342. n Emergency Open Mon to Fri 8am - 4:30pm. Consular Call 911 and specify whether you need services are provided on an appointment police, the fire service or an ambulance. basis only, except for adult passport guide 67

n Buses


Bermudians use lemon grass steeped

n Etiquette It is customary to greet islanders with a ‘good morning’, ‘good afternoon’ or ‘good evening’ — Bermuda prides itself on its civility.

n Ferries The best way to get around; ferries are usually quicker than the buses and the views are better. All ferries depart from the ferry terminal on Front Street, Hamilton. Regular ferries cross Hamilton Harbour and faster catamaran ferries visit Somerset, Dockyard and St. George’s. You can buy tickets at various locations including post offices and hotels. Scooters are allowed on some routes. See pages 17 & 18 for ferry schedule.

n Health No inoculations are required for Bermuda. There are no poisonous insects or mammals (see pages 64 & 65) but visitors should be wary of the Portuguese man-of-war jellyfish that carries a painful sting. Guard against sunstroke and sunburn with hats, sunblock and plenty of water. Our climate is quite kind

to hay fever sufferers as pollens are blown out to sea.

n Hospital King Edward VII Memorial Hospital (tel: 236-2345) is a large, first-rate facility owned and operated by the Bermuda Government and located on Point Finger Road in Paget Parish. An associate of the American Hospital Association. Airlifts can be arranged to the U.S. or Canada.

n Internet Most hotels and many guest houses provide internet access. Also, there are a handful of locations where you can go online in the city of Hamilton including the Bermuda Library on Queen Street, where access is free. Public internet access is also available in St. George’s and Dockyard.

n Mail The General Post Office is located at 56 Church Street Hamilton (tel: 297-7893) and there are 12 sub-offices islandwide. Airmail leaves and arrives daily. Postal rates for

Photo by Kageaki Smith

First rate care is available at King Edward VII Memorial Hospital, just east of Hamilton.

68 guide


in boiling water and sugar for colds. airmail postcards to North America cost 70¢; Europe 80¢; Africa, Asia, Australia and New Zealand 90¢.

n Public Holidays 2010 New Year’s Day | Friday, January 1 Good Friday | Friday, April 2 Bermuda Day | Monday, May 24 National Heroes Day | Monday, June 21 Emancipation Day | Thursday, July 29 Somers Day | Friday, July 30 Labour Day | Monday, September 6 Remembrance Day | Thursday, November 11 Christmas Day | Saturday, December 25 Boxing Day | Sunday, December 26

n Religion Many faiths are represented here and churches are ubiquitous. Anglican, Catholic, African Methodist Episcopal and Seventh Day Adventist are among the major faiths. See the church listings in Friday’s Bermuda Sun newspaper.

n Scooters You can rent scooters by the day or week, if you are 16 or older. Helmets, provided by the rental companies, are mandatory (see pages 70 & 71). Some companies offer free delivery to your hotel.

n Smoking Smoking is banned from all enclosed public spaces including restaurants, bars, shops, theatres or any enclosed workspaces.

n Taxis Rates are controlled by law at $6.40 for the first mile and $2.25 for each additional mile for 1-4 passengers. Rates increase after midnight, Sundays and public holidays with a 25% surcharge for 1-4 passengers and a 50% surcharge for 5-6 passengers. Taxis may also be hired by the hour or day.

n TV & Radio Three main local channels screen a nightly news bulletin — VSB (channel 11), ZBM (9) and ZFB (7). A government station, CITV, is on channel 2 and there’s a small handful

Photo by Tony McWilliam

Cabs are air conditioned and comfortable.

of local radio stations. The quality of local programming varies considerably.

n Time Differences Bermuda, noon: New York — 11am Los Angeles — 8am London — 4pm Toronto — 11am Daylight Savings Time comes into effect from the second Sunday in March through to the first Sunday in November.

n Tipping In most cases, a service charge or gratuity has been added to the bill. Where the gratuity has not been added, 15% is about right.

n Water Tap water is safe to drink, unless you are instructed otherwise. Bermuda has no rivers, streams or reservoirs; all our water comes from rain. Bermuda roofs are painted with a limestone wash that purifies the water as it trickles down into underground tanks. Electric pumps send the water up to the tap.

n Weather Bermuda’s sub-tropical climate is generally mild and humid, but summer and winter temperatures vary considerably. The average annual temperature is 76ºF. Monthly averages: January 65ºF, water 66ºF; April 67ºF, water 68ºF; July 80ºF, water 81ºF; October 75ºF, water 76ºF. In an average year we see rain on 171 days and sunshine on 200 days. guide 69


Photo by Kageaki Smith

Safety first: At Wheels Cycles, in the city of Hamilton, you’ll be shown how to ride your rental bike before you leave their yard.

How to stay safe on a rental bike By SIMON JONES | One of the best ways to see Bermuda is on two

wheels. Rental bikes give you easy access to all the best sights and with a warm breeze on your face and the freedom of the open road ahead, you’ll feel 10 years younger! Riding a moped or scooter is easy once you’ve got the hang of it. Follow our tips to stay safe: • Hire from a reputable firm and check the bike is in good condition; • Helmets are mandatory — but useless unless they fit well and are secured properly; • We drive on the left — just like the Brits; • Drive defensively and wear bright clothes to aid your visibility to others; • Wear sneakers or closed-toe shoes — topple off your bike in flip-flops and you could easily lose a digit; • The speed limit is 35kph; stick to it and don’t feel obliged to keep up with other road users; • Leave plenty of space between yourself and other vehicles and don’t get 70 guide

We have no mountains, just gentle hills. too close to the curb; • Never turn around to look behind you while riding; • Never stop on a bend or a hill’s brow; • Drive slower when it’s wet; • When riding in a group, put the slowest rider at the front; • Traffic at roundabouts goes clockwise, so as you approach one, slow down and give way to vehicles coming from the right; • NEVER drink and ride; • On weekdays, avoid rush hour city traffic (7.30-9.30am and 4-6pm). If things go wrong, you might find yourself getting patched up by medics. Most typical, says Dr. Roslyn BascombeAdams, Deputy Chief of Emergency at King Edward VII Memorial Hospital, are “elbow and knee abrasions” resulting from spills. She encourages “extreme caution” on the roads: “Some accidents are

what’s on practicalities

caused because the rider is not used to driving on the left,” she says. “Many say they have been intimidated by cars or trucks and have simply got too close to the curb and come off their bike.” Joseph Arnold, operations manager at Wheels, one of the island’s premier bike rental firms, said: “Customers always get an instructor session with us in the yard. The instructor shows the rider how to operate the bike and makes sure they are comfortable riding it. The helmet is one of the most important pieces of equipment – it has to be a snug fit and strapped on properly at all times.” So, the message is clear: be confident you’re ready to hit the road, don’t take risks... but do take your time. And don’t forget to have fun. Wheels Cycles Moped & Scooter Rentals is at 117 Front Street, Hamilton,

tel: 292-2245 n

Wheels Cycles (Astwood) Ltd. 117 Front St., Hamilton, Bermuda Tel: 441-292-2245 Email:

Scooter Rentals by the Day, Week or Month Discover the beauty of Bermuda at your own speed with our easy to ride, Peugeot double seater scooters. Single seaters also available. * Open 7 Days a week * No deposit required * All major credit cards welcomed * No license required * Third party insurance included * Complete instructions & safety tips

Welcome All Visitors guide 71

feature The revealing saga of those cute Bermuda shorts By SIMON JONES | It’s not

everywhere in the world a man can walk down the street in pink shorts and matching knee-high socks and hold his head high. But in Bermuda, no one bats an eye-lid when such colourful dressers wend their way around town. Bermuda shorts are a national uniform. They come in all colours, from salmon pink to sunshine yellow. And they are accompanied by a pair of long socks, called Bermuda hose, pulled up to the knee. Add a navy blazer, a tie and smart shoes and you have standard business attire here in the semi-tropics. Don’t be fooled by the bright colours – Bermuda shorts are serious stuff. We once passed a law that states they should not be Marketing to royalty: Local retailer David Hamshere, who runs the English Sports Shop, offers a pair of Bermuda shorts to Prince Philip during a royal visit to the island last year.

shorter than six inches above the knee. Bermuda shorts trace their origins to the British Army; soldiers

72 guide

Wear tasselled loafers with your shorts. sported cut-off trousers to combat the tropical and desert climates they were sent to. They were created at the turn of the 20th century by office workers in London, whose job it was to make sure the forces were suitably attired in farflung corners of the Empire. The look caught on and by the 1950s, most Bermudian men were happy to don a pair of comfortable shorts for work. Although they are Bermuda shorts by name, they are not made here; typically they’re imported from the United States. They make terrific gifts and/or mementos and who knows — you might start a trend in your hometown. The largest selection of Bermuda shorts can be found at the English Sports Shop, which has several

what’s on feature

When British soldiers wore shorts on the battlefields of North Africa during WWII, little did they know the look would become fashionable in far off Bermuda.

branches islandwide. Its flagship store is at 49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672. n

Bermuda’s leading retailer of exclusive, Bermuda-designed resort wear for men, women and children.

49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672 Mangrove Bay, Somerset, tel: 234-0770 Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-0142 guide 73

go shopping Bermuda Breeze

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Chatham House on Front Street is the place to go for quality, Cuban cigars.

Great stores, no sales tax You’ve already proved you have good taste by choosing to visit Bermuda so it’s fitting that our stores exude quality. That’s not to say there are no bargains to be had — you’ll find hefty price differentials with the U.S. on items such as jewellery, watches, perfume, silverware, porcelain and crystal. And you’ll enjoy additional relief at the cash register — there’s no sales tax. Many stores are in the City of Hamilton, but the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard, on the extreme western tip of the island, boasts a range of quality gift stores and boutique shops. And the historic town of St. George’s — at the east end of Bermuda — also has a lively shopping scene. Goods made here or produced exclusively for local stores include pottery, jewellery, paintings and prints, pottery, rum, honey, condiments, cedar ware, Bermuda shorts, scarves, fragrances and pillows. Browse the following listings for details. n 74 guide

Bermuda Breeze, sister to Bermuda Blue, is the latest modern fragrance in the Bermuda collection – a fruity floral — exclusively available in Bermuda. Bermuda Breeze’s delightful scent takes in the sea air and the aromas of natural fruits and flowers from around the island. Notes hint of wild berries, mandarin, lemon zest and jasmine. The dry down is lovely sandalwood and white musk, giving depth and warmth. Inspired by the brilliant clear turquoise waves gracing pink sandy beaches, sea misting the immense blue sky – Bermuda Breeze is unique. Take the time to experience Bermuda Breeze and Bermuda Blue — both embrace much that is uniquely Bermuda. Available through select stores across the Island and online including: Gibbons Company, Reid St#?Xd`ckfe Peniston Brown, St. George’s Perfume Shop, Dockyard Carole Holding, Front St, Hamilton Brown & Co., Front St, Hamilton A.S. Cooper, Front St, Hamilton, branch and hotel stores. Distributed by P.D.L. Limited Tel: (441) 292-1710.

Bermuda Perfumery The Bermuda Perfumery is located at historical Stewart Hall in the heart of the St. George’s UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since 1928, the Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing fine ladies and gentlemen’s fragrances under the brand Lili Bermuda. All the perfumes are made on the premises at Stewart Hall. The Perfumery welcomes visitors for a free tour of its operations and to sample its unique fragrances. This year, the Perfumery launched South Water, a delicious unisex fragrance,

U.S. dollars can be used in Bermuda.

go shopping

composed of coconut milk, juicy guava and sea salt. For women, the Perfumery introduced Petals, a romantic blend of jasmine sambac, honeysuckle and orange flower. To celebrate Bermuda’s 400th anniversary, the Perfumery introduced Somers, for men, a modern blend of Bermuda cedar, olivewood bark and liqourice. The Perfumery’s perfume collection also includes exclusive creations inspired by our beautiful island. Modern women will love Coral, Pink, and Lily, and men will not want to leave Bermuda without a bottle of the famous fragrances 32° North and 64° West. The Perfumery is passionate about the art of perfume making and continues to innovate by using both traditional and modern techniques to produce exceptional perfumes. Visitors are welcome to visit for a free tour and to sample the Perfumery’s exclusive and rare perfumes. The Bermuda Perfumery. Open Mon-Sat 9am-5pm. Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street St. George’s GE 05. Tel: 293-0627. 1-800527-8213 (toll free in US/Canada). Fax: 293-8810.

Gibbons Company For the way Bermuda lives. Shop where the locals shop, at Gibbons Company, the island’s largest, most diversified department store, known for its excellent customer service and wide range of exciting merchandise. They have vibrant collections for all ages, men, women and children, as well as captivating fragrances and cosmetics by industry legends and an array of everything from the essential to the distinctive for the home. At Gibbons, all perfumes, cosmetics and skin-care products are offered with fantastic savings, at duty-free prices. Gibbons’ exclusives include Guerlain, Dior, Decleor, Chanel Cosmetics, Iman, Versace, Vera Wang and Bond #9. Other favourites include Hermes, Burberry, Ralph Lauren, Lancome, Elizabeth Arden, Betsey Johnson, L’Occitaine, Bermuda Blue and Bermuda Breeze – the perfect gift for friends and

Treasure coins from shipwrecks around the world, set in 14k and 18k gold.


NO. 9 FRONT STREET, HAMILTON Telephone (441)295-1466 guide 75

go shopping

Locally made products are ‘Bermudiana.’

family back home! Shop on line at and have your favourite fragrance or gift shipped home or delivered directly to your hotel. 21 Reid Street, Hamilton. Tel: 2950022.

M.A.C Cosmetics M.A.C Cosmetics products are designed for all races, sexes and ages. Created in Canada in 1985, it’s now part of the Estée Lauder companies. M.A.C’s popularity grew through a tradition of word-of-mouth endorsement from make-up artists, models, photographers and journalists around the world. Front St, Hamilton. Tel: 295-8843

NINE WEST Nine West carries everything you could wish for in shoes! Here, the Nine West and Anne Klein brands can be found, along with collections of the latest handbags and accessories. Reid St# Hamilton. Tel: 294-519(

The Perfume Shop A wonderful fragrance boutique featuring world-renowned fragrances. Exclusives include Guerlain, Betsey Johnson, Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang and Versace, plus exquisite favourites from Hermes, Van Cleef &

Arpel, Chanel, Dolce & Gabana, Dior, Calvin Klein, Lacoste & Kenzo, plus many more. All at duty free prices! Clocktower Mall, Dockyard. Tel: 405-0006

Peniston Brown The fragrance specialists! Excellent service and the most popular fragrances from around the world, for both men and women, are the hallmarks of this quaint boutique. All at duty free prices. 6 Water Street, St. George’s. Tel: 405-0005

TWENTY 5 REID A chic and interesting fashion boutique carrying clothing and accessories in the very latest styles. Brands include BCBG, Kensie and Desigual to name a few. The perfect place to shop for something unique. Reid St, Hamilton. Tel: 294-5188

Bermuda Post Office Every year the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau compiles a collection of commemoratives and arranges them into an attractive presentation package. This collection continues the Bermuda Post Office’s efforts to portray all facets of Bermuda’s heritage, culture and history. The Bermuda Philatelic Bureau also services orders for current issues of Bermuda’s commemorative and definitive stamps and, for the convenience of collectors, provides a standing order account service with a minimum deposit of 30 dollars. In addition, they maintain a mailing list to provide details of new stamp releases to customers. 56 Church St, Hamilton. Tel: 297-7807

Brown & Co.

Photo by Kageaki Smith

At Brown & Co. on Front Street you can grab a bite at its in-store café.

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Brown & Co. with over 7,500 square feet of floor space, is the island’s most comprehensive department store. Located in the heart of Hamilton, their department stores are stocked with everything you need for yourself, friends, family and your home – featuring tourist-oriented gifts, greeting cards, books from local and internationally

go shopping

Our city covers only 180 acres.

acclaimed authors, perfumes and fragrances from top designers, home décor from around the world, fashion jewellery and so much more. Plus, nestled at the back of the store’s book department is a beautifully designed café offering gourmet coffees, snacks, desserts, sandwiches and more. Make sure to visit them. Open MondaysSaturdays 8:30am -5:30pm and Sundays 1pm-5pm. Hallmark, Reid St, Hamilton. Tel: 279-5442 The Bookmart, Reid St, Hamilton. Tel: 279-5443 The Birdcage Café, Reid St, Hamilton. Tel: 279-5462 Brown & Co, Front St, Hamilton% Tel: 279-5524

Chatham House Bermuda’s leading specialty tobacco shop, established in 1895. Offering a marvellous selection of fine tobaccos and gifts for visitors. Satisfaction is guaranteed. Their extensive range includes English Briar pipes, and a selection of Havanas such as Punch, Partagas, Romeo y Julieta, Upmann, Montecristo, Cohiba and Bolivar — all at good savings over U.S. prices. Corner of Front and Burnaby Streets, Hamilton. Tel: 292-8422

The Phoenix Stores With five full-service pharmacies, Phoenix Stores have been caring for customers and assisting with their health care needs for

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more than 100 years. Should you need answers to health related questions whilst you are on vacation, visit one of their Phoenix pharmacists. Emergency prescriptions are dispensed while you wait and each store carries an extensive range of over-the-counter medications. The stores also carry a wide range of health and beauty products, local and foreign newspapers and magazines, phone cards and postcards, etc. Visit one of their locations: Woodbourne Chemist, Clarendon Pharmacy, Collector’s Hill Apothecary, Phoenix Centre and Paget Pharmacy for all your essentials. All stores are open Monday to Saturday, three stores are also open on Sundays and holidays. Tel: 295-3838

Walker Christopher Goldsmiths From classic diamond bands and strands of South Sea pearls to more contemporary designs, the workshop specializes in crafting one of a kind pieces. Walker Christopher showcases authentic coins; gold doubloons and silver ‘pieces of eight’ salvaged from sunken galleons, as well as Greek and Roman coins dating from 3000BC which are mounted in pendants, earrings and cuff-links. Even museum quality Egyptian artefacts have been transformed into wearable art. In addition, the workshop produces its own line of Bermuda-inspired gold jewellery and sterling silver Christmas ornaments. Some antique and art nouveau jewels. Open Monday to Saturday 9am-5pm. 9 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-1466

Many stores have their own websites.


Photo by jamie macmillan

One of Front Street’s landmark stores, Crisson Jewellers is synonymous with quality and elegance.

Crisson Jewellers Crisson Jewellers embodies Bermuda’s finest and most cherished traditions. A family business since 1922, the Crisson name is synonymous with quality and value. The fabulous array of jewellery and watches reflect the style, sophistication and taste of our discerning customers. When you explore our exciting collections, we are sure you will agree that a visit to Crisson is the crowning moment of your Bermuda shopping experience. Along with the wonderfully eclectic collection of hand-selected pieces from all parts of the world, Crisson are Bermuda’s exclusive source for famous designers including David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, Picchiotti, John Hardy, Kabana, Pandora, Bixby and Thomas Sabo. As for diamonds of distinction, Crisson has Bermuda’s largest collection of spectacular cuts from Cento, A. Jaffe and Canadia. When it comes to timepieces, Crisson is definitely the place! Crisson are the

officially authorised Rolex retailers in Bermuda. You will also find Tag Heuer, Ebel, Movado, Tudor, Philip Stein, Christian Dior, Rado, Elysee, TX and Raymond Weil. The collection is rounded out with ranges from Seiko, Swiss Army, Citizen, Casio, Esq and Guess! Crisson has two stores on Front Street in Hamilton, with another on Queen Street. There are stores in St. George’s and in the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard. If you are staying in one of Bermuda’s major hotels, you’ll find a Crisson store there as well. Each of these boutique-style stores features pieces selected from our main collections in Hamilton. The shopping experience is relaxed and intimate, and the quality, value and prices are the same whichever store you choose to visit. Crisson Jewellers, 16 Queen Street, 55 & 71 Front Street, Hamilton; Water Street, St. George’s; Clocktower Mall, Dockyard, and all major hotels. Tel: 295-2351 • guide 79


Photo by Kageaki Smith

With its broad range of colours and sizes, Onion Jack’s Trading Post on Front Street makes shopping for T-shirts a lot of fun.

Great places to buy your souvenir Bermuda T-shirts By Terri mello | It’s on every visitor’s shopping list — a souvenir Bermuda T-shirt. After all, it’s the easiest way to tell the world you’ve paid a visit to paradise. And with our help, you can be sure Uncle Hank and little niece Nicole will be thanking you profusely for that perfect shirt you found. Whether you’re shopping for a co-worker, relative, or yourself, choices abound in stores across the island. But to make your life easier we’ve chosen a few of our favourite places to find great Bermuda T-shirts. If you’ve only got time to visit one store, Onion Jack’s Trading Post, handily located in the middle of Hamilton’s Front Street, might just take care of all your needs. Here you’ll find a large array of shirts in all sizes (up to 5XL), styles and colours. They stock simple and classy, kitschy and cute, T-shirts with Bermuda maps, local flowers and birds, Bermuda 80 guide

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Hamilton became our capital in 1815. cottages and even some which proclaim that you’ve survived the Bermuda Triangle. And they cater to all age groups. Onion Jack’s VP Irene Cardwell says the biggest seller is the store’s signature logo T-shirt. “People like it because it’s so unique,” she told us. Be sure to check out the bargain bins, which offer shirts for as little as $6.95. Just a few doors down is Makin’ Waves, which carries T-shirts with surfer-dude flare. The store also has outlets in Dockyard and St. George’s. You can’t miss Riihiluoma’s Flying Colours on Queen Street. It’s a twostorey souvenir shop that sports an array of flags across its storefront. Here you’ll find a dazzling collection of just about any kind of Bermuda T-shirt you could possibly want.


Carole Holding is a local artist with a store on Hamilton’s Front Street. She paints with soft colours to capture traditional Bermuda scenes and you can find a number of her most popular images on the front of adultsized T-shirts. These make lovely, conversation-starting souvenirs. A.S. Cooper is a department store with locations in Hamilton, St. George’s and Dockyard, where you’ll find an array of quality Bermuda T-shirts, ranging from simple and classy to colourful and cute. Brown & Co., on Front Street in Hamilton, has a range of shirt styles bearing a Bermuda logo, with bright selections for children and T-shirts boldly stating ‘Life is always better in Bermuda’. And who are we to disagree? n guide 81

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food & drink

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Classy and inviting, Barracuda Grill is a terrific choice for lunch or dinner.

Let’s eat! Our island is small but it offers an abundance of dining options. Casual dress is acceptable at most restaurants, though some upscale eateries require a jacket and tie. And it’s best to make reservations. The dollar signs (see our key, below) offer a rough guide to prices. Also visit www. for updated information. 64° Bar & Grill

Barracuda Grill

64° takes flight at the beautifully reBarracuda Grill, one of Bermuda’s most designed Port Royal Golf Course, overlookcelebrated restaurants, is the place to go for ing the breathtaking and world famous outstanding seafood and chops prepared 16th hole. Enjoy a sophisticated and casual in a contemporary style, proudly winning atmosphere, soaking in the panoramic seven Best of Bermuda Awards! Warm views of the aqua blue south shore. The mahogany woods and plush banquettes in contemporary design of the bar incorpoa sumptuous but comfortable dining room rates seating inside and out. Chef Troy make it suitable for power business meals or Smith is at the helm and is set romantic tête-à-têtes. Barracuda’s Restaurant to create unforgettable culinary cozy but tres chic bar is the place price ranges experiences. 5 Port Royal to enjoy martinis made to share, per person or one of over 16 wines served Drive, Southampton. Tel: 2340974. $ Under $20 by the glass. A warm, lavish and www.bermudasbestrestauinviting interior hints at a time of $$ $20-$40 bygone glamour but is contem$$$ $40-$50 Lunch $$, Dinner $$$ porized to be thoroughly of the $$$$ Over $50 guide 83

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Mussel pie includes papaya, potatoes,

moment. Irresistible seafood and chops prepared with expertise take centre stage on immaculate white-lit linen covered tables. 5 Burnaby Hill (above the Hog Penny), Hamilton. Tel: 292-1609 Fax 292-8354 Lunch $$, Dinner $$$

Bone Fish Bar & Grill Sit down to exquisite views of Bermuda’s breezy Great Sound. Bone Fish’s aim is to create the finest cuisine using local fresh fish and produce for natural, simple and balanced dishes for your enjoyment. Great food at reasonable prices in a lively atmosphere with indoor/outdoor bar and dining. Open 7 days a week. Lunch 11:30am-5pm, dinner 6pm-10:30pm. 6 Dockyard Terrace, Somerset. Tel: 234-5151 Lunch $, Dinner $$

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Café Amici An Italian family style restaurant in the heart of historic Dockyard. Enjoy the spirit of Italian culture and cuisine in a friendly, intimate atmosphere. Bermuda codfish & potato breakfast every Sunday, 9am to noon. Open daily. Breakfast 9-11am, lunch up until 4pm. Dinner 6-9pm. Buon appetito! Clocktower Mall, Dockyard. Tel: 234-5009 Breakfast $, Lunch $, Dinner $$

Chopsticks Chopsticks is known for its delicious Chinese and Thai food. Specialities include regional dishes from Canton, Hunan, Szechwan and Thailand with authentic chefs. From mild to very spicy, there’s something for everyone, including vegetarians. Convenient take out is available. Lunch Monday to Friday noon – 2:30pm, dinner nightly 5pm – 11pm. 88 Reid Street. Tel: 292-0791 Lunch $, Dinner $$

bacon, onions, lemon juice and spices. Fresco’s Italian Kitchen and Wine Bar At Fresco’s you’re invited to step into Bermuda’s first Wine Bar and the Caribbean’s only Wine Museum. One of the most extensive selections of fine wines available on the island. Fresco’s has been hailed locally as ‘Best Restaurant’, ‘Best Wine List’, ‘Best Ambiance’, and as having the ‘Most Decadent Desserts”. While each dish evokes a link to Bermuda, it sits alongside the new, the innovative and, of course, the divine. Shall we? 2 Chancery Lane, Hamilton Tel: 295-5058 Lunch $$, Dinner $$$

Grey Goose vodka Cognac, France. The maître de chai (cellar master) for Grey Goose vodka ensures that every element of its production is of the highest quality. He selects 100% of

food & drink

the finest French wheat, and employs an exclusive five-step distillation process to concentrate its exceptional flavour. Pure spring water naturally filtered through Champagne limestone is then blended with the spirit. The quality is in the taste; Grey Goose vodka is lush, smooth and rounded and melts in the mouth with a long-lasting, satisfying finish. When it comes to vodka it makes sense to start with what many people consider to be the world’s best — Grey Goose. Distributed by Burrows Lightbourn.

Hog Penny Restaurant and Pub Hamilton’s oldest licensed establishment, in business since 1957, the Hog Penny inspired the Cheers pub in Boston. Authentic is not a word used lightly here, and a 50-plus year history gives the place a delightful patina of age that you just can’t replicate. In December 1987, Gourmet

Whether you prefer a formal setting or al fresco dining, our chef creatively prepares a wide variety of culinary delights that will please even the most discerning tastes and appetites. Dine with us on our Ocean Terrace and be charmed by the best Bermudian entertainment and a spectacular ocean view nightly. PICTURESQUE VIEWS AND EXOTIC TASTE SENSATIONS Al Fresco dining at the Breakers • Open Daily: Lunch 12.00pm - 2.30pm Dinner 6.30pm - 10.00pm (April to October) • Bermudiana Dining Room 7.00pm - 9.30pm Dinner reservations required 293 1666 • For more information visit guide 85

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Try loquat jam, made from local fruit.

Magazine exclaimed “it was love at first sight for us, as well as the throngs who flock here”, and as Gourmet wrote, this great institution is hard to beat for a truly authentic experience. Featuring great cuts of beef, genuine Indian curries, to-die-for hearty, pub style comfort food that has won countless “Best of Bermuda” awards, and was featured on The Food Network’s “$40 A Day”, the Hog Penny continues to be a favourite spot in Bermuda for generations of locals and visitors alike. 5 Burnaby Hill (just up from Front Street) Hamilton. Tel: 292-2534 Fax 292-8354 Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Island Cuisine One of Bermuda’s most popular diners, where locals and tourists alike enjoy a great breakfast, lunch or dinner. Reasonable prices. Famous for its delicious, homemade Bermudian dishes ­— a treat for the entire family. Clean and friendly with great service. Serving beer and wine. Try some peas n’ rice with your fish dinner. Also serving fishcakes, Bermuda fish chowder, oxtail stew, rockfish with lemon and butter sauce, braised pork chops, curry chicken roti,

salads, sandwiches and soups. Breakfast served all day. Open daily, Mon-Sat, 6am9:45pm, Sun: 7am-2:45pm 235 Middle Road, Southampton Tel: 238-(EATS) 3287 Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner $-$$

Latin & Rumba°r and Java Jive Heating things up in the very heart of Hamilton with Nuevo Latino inspired cuisine, Latin is a sizzling and chic new restaurant that, according to the many guests that have visited us to date, “is different from everywhere else in Bermuda”. The main upscale dining restaurant features many different regional dishes from Central and South America, Spanish Caribbean, Miami and even gives a nod to the Iberian peninsula; all are given a twist and artfully presented in Latin style. Downstairs in Rumba°r, a sleek onyx topped, glowing bar beckons you to sit and enjoy an authentic Caipirinha, or a tall and delightful Mojito. Meander outside to Bermuda’s only open air, below street courtyard lounge, with Philippe Starck outdoor couches and low fabric banquettes. Need a fantastic cappuccino or panini sandwich on the go? Java Jive is open Monday to Friday 7am-4pm for fantastic pastries, breakfasts or lunch to take away. As the degree sign in Rumba°r suggests, Latin is HOT! 29 Victoria Street, Hamilton. Tel: 296-5050. Fax: 296-5333. Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Mrs. T’s Victorian Tea Room

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Opus: A modern lounge with delicious food and a range of fine teas and coffees.

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Located at Willowbank Hotel, set in a 17th century home, Mrs. T’s Victorian Tea Room is a classic example of Bermudian architecture with its cedar framework and timeless structures. It remains a delight to behold and worthy of a visit, with classic, sumptuous dishes. Lunch specialities include dishes such as Black Oak smoked ham and aged cheddar croissants to traditional Bermudian Hoppin’ John. “Take tea” with a

food & drink

A Dark ’n’ Stormy is Black Seal Rum

delectable assortment of finger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and pastries hand-made right on the property. Willowbank Hotel, 126 Somerset Road, Sandy’s. Tel: 234-1616. Lunch $

Opus Café & Lounge A truly exquisite, modern lounge, Opus offers the finest selection of European coffees and international teas as well as a selection of homemade patisseries, fresh salads and tapas. Opus has been awarded Most Exotic Drink (Opus’ daily martini special) and Happiest Happy Hour locally. The perfect venue to steal away from the bustle of Hamilton by yourself or gather with friends over a tasse of espresso or a bottle of vino. Sexy, cozy and sophisticated. 4 Bermudiana Road, Hamilton Tel: 292-3500 Breakfast $, Lunch $, Dinner $$

Pickled Onion Restaurant and Bar A contemporary styled upscale but casual restaurant, with Bermuda’s best bar and “See and Be Seen” vibe. Chefs here won the prestigious “Escoffier Cup” at the 2004 Bermuda Culinary Arts Festival, and have drawn accolades from Food and Wine magazine, the Washington Post and most recently Giada’s Weekend Getaways showing primetime on the Food Network. The food is North American focused, with global influences, and the goal is to be the best value restaurant experience in Bermuda. A classy but fun Martini style bar is popular with local professionals or those out on the town. Harbour views and live entertainment seven nights a week in season. 53 Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-2263 Fax: 295-6291 Lunch $$, Dinner $$


Bar & GBra il rl& Grill Café Amici Café Amici is a placeisfor a place for friends and friends and family tofamily to gather and gather and enjoy theenjoy the

Catch the ferrythe ferry Catch to Dockyard and to Dockyard and visit Bone Fish visit Bone Fish to experience to experience the menuthe from menu from award winning award winning chef Livio Ferigo. chef Livio Ferigo.

Located Located on the corner on the corner spirit of spirit of of the Clocktower Mall of the Clocktower Mall open 7 open 7 Italian Italian in Dockyard, in Dockyard, days a week. days a week. culture and culture and Located Located oppositeopposite Breakfast Breakfast cuisine -cuisine the ferrythe dock in dock in ferry 9 a.m. to911a.m. 11 a.m. enjoyingenjoying Lunch to 4 p.m. Dockyard, open 7 open 7 Dockyard, Lunch to 4 p.m. days a week. laughter,laughter, Dinner Dinner days a week. Lunch: Lunch: 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. exceptional 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. exceptional 11:30a.m.11:30a.m. - 5p.m. - 5p.m. Cod FishCod andFish and food andfood and BermudaBermuda Dinner: Dinner: Potato Breakfast every Potato Breakfast every each other. 6p.m. - 10:30p.m. each other. 6p.m. - 10:30p.m. Sunday 9Sunday a.m. to912: p.m. a.m. to 12: p.m. Call: 234-5151 Call: 234-5151 Call: 234-5009 Call: 234-5009

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mixed with ginger beer – delicious!

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The Pink Beach Club For a most romantic setting make your way to the beautiful Pink Beach Club in Tucker’s Town. The Bermudiana Restaurant prepares five-course gourmet dinners in elegant surroundings with stunning ocean views. A jacket is required for gentlemen, ties are optional. The table d’hotel menu changes daily and they are happy to accommodate those with special dietary requirements. Dinner served nightly 7pm — 9:30pm. South Road, Tucker’s Town Tel: 293-1666 Breakfast $$, Lunch $$, Dinner $$$$

Rosa’s Cantina Saddle up and get on down to Bermuda’s only Tex Mex eatery. Famous Margaritas are offered in different flavours (Best of Bermuda Award) as well as Mexican beer and a full bar menu. In warm weather, try a seat on the balcony overlooking Front Street. Try Unbelievable Nachos, Ridiculous Burritos, Quesadillas and Fajitas. Great Steaks at great prices, done on the Mesquite Grill and creative dinner specials keep Rosa’s on top. Families with small children are welcome. Open daily from 11:30am onwards. 121 Front Street. Tel: 295-1912 Lunch $, Dinner $$

Silk Thai Cuisine Silk offers a delicious blend of flavours from the kingdom of Siam. With a team of Thai chefs from the Shangri-la hotel in Bangkok, patrons will be treated to one of the fastest growing ethnic foods in North America. Silk Thai Cuisine, the first Thai restaurant in Bermuda, has been awarded top honours by Condé Nast Traveler magazine, which named it a ‘Top 80 Hot New Tables’ restaurant. This award-winning restaurant is open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday. Dinner only on Sundays. 55 Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-0449 Lunch $, Dinner $$

Mrs. Tea’s Victorian Tea Room Victorian elegance provides lunch or afternoon tea in a charming environment for a genteel afternoon break. Willowbank Hotel & Conference Facility 126 Somerset Road Sandy’s MA06, Bermuda Ph (441) 234-1616 Hours: Lunch or Afternoon Tea • Week Days 12pm-2:30pm • Weekends 12pm-5pm guide 91

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Photo top left by Jamie Macmillan, bottom left and above right, Kageaki Smith

Delicious: Codfish cakes, top left, and below it, a typical codfish breakfast. Enjoy a codfish breakfast on Saturdays at the popular Speciality Inn, South Road, Smith’s, above.

Two classic Bermuda dishes By MEREDITH EBBIN | A Bermuda codfish breakfast, usually enjoyed on

Sundays, ranks high on the island’s list of national dishes. Codfish cakes are equally popular and are eaten any day of the week. Dried salt cod, the essential ingredient in both dishes, has been part of our culinary tradition for nearly four centuries. It was once a cheap food source for slaves. These days, the Sunday staple that is served in homes, members’ clubs, hole-in-the-wall eateries and hotels, is a veritable feast. The main ingredients are dried salt cod and potatoes. Most cooks use boneless cod, but purists say dumpfish, which is dried cod with the bones and skin, has a better flavour. Both are laden with salt. So the cod, which is packaged and imported, usually from Nova Scotia, must be soaked in cold water overnight and the water changed at least twice. The cod is boiled in fresh water. The potatoes can be cooked with the cod or separately. The flaked fish and whole potatoes are eaten with avocados, bananas and olive oil. 92 guide

Have you tried conch stew yet?

what’s on food & drink

It’s also delicious served with a basic hot cross buns. tomato sauce or one with ‘the works’ — Codfish breakfast is on the menu onions, green peppers and bacon. Other 6am-11.30am on Saturdays at the cooks swear by an egg sauce. For many, Speciality Inn (Tel: 236-3133), a popular a codfish breakfast is not complete home-style eatery on South Road in without hot cornbread or Johnny bread. Smith’s Parish. Bouchée Restaurant With all the trimmings, it’s a hearty (295-5759) is on Pitts Bay Road in meal that should see you through to Hamilton and in 2009 won an award suppertime. for its codfish breakfast. It’s served For codfish cakes, mashed potatoes Sundays 7.30-11.30am. Best to arrive and cooked cod are mixed together with early at both places, where you’ll pay an egg and seasonings, shaped into roughly $15 per head. balls or patties and then fried. If your budget is a bit bigger, the They’re found on most menus and in Fairmont Southampton’s Sunday upscale restaurants, codfish cakes are breakfast buffet, served at Windows on usually offered as an appetizer. the Sound, includes codfish and potatoes Fishcakes are usually eaten for lunch, with all the trimmings. Reservations are served between a bun, with lettuce, required (Tel: 238-2555 for times). tomato, tartar sauce and a few drops of Codfish recipes can be found in most hot sauce. SI_BDACOM_AD_0210.pdf Many locals eat them with a 2/24/10 Bermuda cookbooks and Cecille C. 1 11:34 AM raisin bun — a nod to the Good Friday Snaith-Simmons’ The Bermuda Cook holiday when fish cakes are eaten with Book is a good one to try. n








K guide 93

food & drink

Your handy pub guide By James Whittaker | Hamilton’s Front Street is the centre of our nightlife scene and the Pickled Onion is a great starting point. With live music, good food and a friendly atmosphere, it’s probably our most popular bar. The Hog Penny, a cozy, oak-panelled bar that inspired the Bull and Finch pub in Cheers, is just steps around the corner. Back on Front Street, Flanagan’s, an Irish bar with an American feel, and the Outback sports bar, which screens everything from basketball to cricket, are worth checking out. Nearby, The Beach – self-proclaimed ‘shame of Front Street’ – is a popular late-night spot. It has a good bar menu and closes late; the ‘shame’ bit kicks in if you find yourself still partying in the early hours, having planned a ‘quiet’ night out. Bermudiana Road caters to a more sophisticated crowd. Smart shoes, collared shirts and well-padded wallets are required here, where upscale wine bars nestle between swish restaurants. The Robin Hood on Richmond Road is a lively, British-style pub with reasonably priced food and live sports. If you’re streetwise and like to stray off the beaten track, take a wander down Court Street, where you’ll enjoy the atmosphere in bars like the Spinning Wheel, where the DJ keeps the dance floor busy with a mix of classic 94 guide

Photo by Jamie Macmillan

The Pickled Onion boasts a harbourfront terrace and is one of our most popular spots.

soul, reggae and soca. The friendly Swizzle Inn, near the airport, is always a good night out and is famous for potent rum swizzle cocktails. North Rock Brewery on South Road, Smith’s Parish is a good spot to sample locally brewed beers — St. David’s Pale Ale is our favourite. The Frog and Onion in Dockyard will also serve you an authentic, local pint of beer and along with the Bone Fish Bar & Grill, a terrific people-watching spot, it’s your best bet in Dockyard. Out west, the Country Squire in Somerset has a beautiful wooden balcony overlooking Mangrove Bay and is worth a visit, while Henry VIII in Southampton is another popular spot. Wherever you go, don’t drink and ride — leave your rental scooter at the hotel and take a bus, cab or ferry. Cheers! n

food & drink Common Ground A great place to meet friends, pick up your breakfast, morning coffee, freshly prepared sandwiches, daily specials, homemade soups or an afternoon chocolate treat! We serve alcohol, cold beverages, wine and beer. Every month we use our walls as a temporary art gallery to showcase art. Open Mon–Fri 7:30am–5pm, Sat 8am to 3pm. Chancery Lane, Hamilton. Tel: 292-2353

Juice ‘N Beans Café

Photo by Kageaki Smith

Stop for a cuppa By Terri mello | Whether you’re about to kick-start a fun morning of shopping or need a pick-me-up in the midst of a hectic day, what better way to do it than with a hot cup of java? On most main streets in

Experience the unique selection of premium quality products on offer at Juice ‘N Beans, Bermuda’s first and only all-vegetarian eatery. With exciting choices of home made baked goods, custom-made fruit smoothies and optional health boosting add-ins, to distinct and delicious varieties of premium organic coffees and teas. Open Mon-Sat 7:30am-11pm, Sun 1pm to 8pm. 61 Front St, Hamilton. Tel: 292-6454. Fax: 292-5148

La Bella Café Specialties include: frappuccinos, fruit smoothies, specialty coffees made with premium Illy coffee. We also offer a selection of fresh pastries, bagels, croissants, paninis and subs. Bring in this advertorial and receive complimentary biscotti with your order. Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-5.30pm, Sat 9am-2pm. Thistle House, Burnaby St., Hamilton. Tel: 295-9857

Hamilton you’ll find numerous

Lemon Tree Cafe

interesting places to stop and

Experience a gourmet breakfast or one of our appetizing daily specials. Located in a tranquil park setting, we are the only one of our kind in Bermuda. Enjoy a glass of wine or an ice cold beverage at our full-service Tiki Bar. We also serve Illy coffee. Open Mon-Wed 7:30am–7pm; Thurs 7:30 am– 9pm; Fri 7:30am–midnight (also 5pm–2am ‘Wine Down Happy Hour’); Sat 11 am–3 pm. 7 Queen St., Hamilton. Tel: 292-0235. Fax: 292-0571

catch your breath. A few steps in any direction and you’ll soon be upon a place that suits your fancy, whether you’re looking for a laidback ambience, a trendy setting or just need to grab something fast. We’ve got you covered.


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© d. yurman 2010


guıde september 2010

Activities | Shopping | Dining | Culture Visit historic St. George’s — pages 30–38

Free guide September 2010 guide September 2010 has a sister - the guide! This guide is a handy visitor magazine that's packed with useful info and available all ov...