Page 1 guide | may 2014

guÄąde FREE

MAY 2014

Parade time!

Celebrate Bermuda Day with us Your guide comes alive!

Scan cover for video clip – see page 2



F R E SH ,




Scan for video

your interactive guide Make your ‘guide’ come alive! A first for Bermuda — this print magazine is interactive By TONY MCWILLIAM, CO-PUBLISHER | Your May edition of the guide incorporates some cutting-edge technology. You can use your smart-phone or tablet to scan certain pages and watch, in amazement, as printed pictures evolve into video clips and photo galleries. It’s called Augmented Reality and to enjoy it, simply install an app and follow a few easy steps — see sidebar. It’s a first for Bermuda; we launched it in the April edition and the response was terrific. So what’s the idea? Well, our aim is to enhance the experience for you, as a reader, by blending the print and digital worlds. And yes, we’d be happy if we dazzled a few advertisers, too! We have partnered with a company called Layar, pioneers in Augmented Reality. Look out for our blue AR icon on certain pages. And enjoy the show! n

To enjoy our enhanced content: • Scan the QR code on this page or go wherever you typically get your mobile apps • Download & install the Layar App on your iOs, Android or Blackberry device • The Layar app uses the camera on your device to scan interactive print • Our longtail logo is your cue to use Augmented Reality • Activate the app, ensure the page is well-lit & hold your device 8-10 inches over the printed page • Wait a few seconds… and enjoy the show! Note: You must be connected to the internet


So easy! Guide co-publisher Lisa Beauchamp scans a guide cover with an IPad to activate a video clip.

2 guide

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: Our AR team: Jamie Petty, Jason Csiszar, Glenn Jones, Nicola Muirhead, Lamone Woods.


Men’s Collection



298-7337 Corner of Front & Queen Streets, Hamilton

n Arts

n Practicalities

overview 30-31 local products 58 & 59, 75-81 shows 15

health, customs etc 52-55

n Children where to take ‘em 36 & 37

n Events Bermuda Day 8 calendar 10-15

n Food & drink best choices 82-96

n History/culture old coins 32 & 33 must-see sites 34 & 35 shipwrecks 46 & 47 Gombeys 50

n Nature our harmless critters 55

n People • welcome letter 6 • the local vibe 50 • weddings 56 & 57

4 guide

n Shopping flex the plastic 58-81

n Sightseeing east to west 17-29 tours 38 & 39 beaches 42 & 43

n Sports & activities golf, tennis etc 40 & 41 snorkelling 44 & 45 diving 46 & 47 fishing 48 & 49

n Transportation airlines 51 buses 52 bus schedule 55 ferries 53 taxis 54

n Weather what to expect 55

Co-publisher & advertising manager: Lisa Beauchamp, Tel: 278-1850 Co-publisher & editor-in-chief: Tony McWilliam, tmcwilliam@ Tel: 278-1860 Design & Layout: Creative Circle Media Consulting Accounts: Donna Vesely Tel: 278-1831 Delivery: Lloyd Somner Cover image: Bermuda Day Parade by Kageaki Smith Contributors: James Burton, Sarah Lagan, Nicola Muirhead, Alison Outerbridge, Kageaki Smith, Amanda Temple, www.moongateproductions. com, Lamone Woods. guide Published by The Bermuda Sun a subsidiary of MediaHouse © Ltd. Printed by Island Press Ltd. Web: Information and services contained in the guide are believed to be correct at the time of printing; however, prices and times may be subject to change without notice. The Bermuda Sun Limited makes every effort to ensure accuracy but accepts no liability for errors or omissions. Reproduction in whole or in part by permission of the publisher only.

welcome to bermuda

A memorable ON BEHALF OF THE Government and the people of Bermuda, welcome to our island home. Known around the world for our beautiful pink-sand beaches, stunning turquoise water, world-class golf and warm, friendly people, Bermuda has been a favourite vacation destination for generations of travellers. Let us show you that Bermuda is so much more. We invite you to enjoy unexpected treasures, such as boutique

Enjoy our little island gem DEAR BERMUDA.COM GUIDE READERS, On behalf of the Bermuda Tourism

you can be as busy as you want to

Authority, welcome to Bermuda!

be, or do nothing and do it well! I

Our little island gem in the middle

hope that you’re able to play golf,

of the Atlantic has so much to offer

swim in the stunning, crystal-clear

and we hope that you’ll have time

blue ocean, explore Crystal Caves,

to explore everything that interests

taste some fish chowder or a rum


swizzle, visit Dolphin Quest or view

Whether you’re interested in

one of the historic National Trust

sports, history, culture, food or the

properties and also to just relax and

arts, Bermuda has so much to offer;

enjoy the beauty of life in Bermuda.

6 guide

experience is in store shopping, island-inspired cuisine,

Bermuda vacation, I am certain you

vibrant arts and cultural activities and

will have a memorable experience.

our rich history. During your stay,

Once again, welcome and I hope

I hope you have an opportunity to

you have a wonderful stay. We look

explore some of our finest features,

forward to welcoming you back to our

such as the 17th century Town of St.

shores very soon.

George, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the City of Hamilton and the Royal Naval Dockyard. However you choose to enjoy your

Sincerely, The Hon. Shawn G. Crockwell JP, MP Minister of Tourism Development and Transport

and reach out to all your friends to encourage them to come to Bermuda for their next vacation? We welcome your feedback and hope that you’ll take the time to participate in the exit survey once We are always looking to

you’ve had a chance to experience

improve, to be even better for you.

all that Bermuda has to offer! Most

So, please feel free to let us know

important, please come back and

how Bermuda could provide an

see us very soon.

even better vacation experience for you. What would it take, for instance, for you to leave Bermuda

Sincerely, Bill Hanbury, CEO Bermuda Tourism Authority guide 7

cover story

Bermuda Day is a national holiday


Islanders let their hair down on Bermuda Day and the parade is a highlight.

By SARAH LAGAN | National pride finds its full voice on Bermuda Day Scan for digital content

— it’s May 26 this year — and marks the start of summer. From the glit-

tering spectacle of the Bermuda 8 guide

Day Parade to the road races that draw hundreds of participants — this is an experience not to be missed. Die-hard parade-watchers use deckchairs to stake out their favourite vantage points on the roadside — up to 24 hours before the event! Floats adorned with flowers and decorations glide through the city of Hamilton, serenaded by singers, dancers, majorettes and beauty queens. Bermuda’s traditional folk dancers — the Gombeys (see page 50) — come out in full force on this public holiday. Dressed in rainbow colours, they dance passionately to drums and whistles. Don’t be surprised to see our Premier, Craig Cannonier, brandishing the traditional Gombey tomahawk and busting some dance moves with the best of them. There is a half-marathon, which will draw some of the island’s most accomplished athletes, plus the invitational cycle race from Somerset to Hamilton and a fitted dinghy race in St George’s Harbour. While many tourists have already taken to our crystal clear waters by now, don’t expect to see many Bermudians dipping their toes until Bermuda Day — it’s just too ‘cool’. Whatever you choose to do on this special day — enjoy! n

Take One Home With You If you haven’t had the pleasure of being serenaded by our invisible maestros, just wait one night, you will. Now you can take one home with you. Introducing the Whistling Frog... one of six coins commemorating Bermuda’s 2009 Banknote series. The Authority’s commemorative coin products are highly desirable collectors’ items. They are a perfect memento of your trip or a unique gift to give someone special.

Available for sale at: Bermuda Monetary Authority, BMA House, 43 Victoria Street, Hamilton HM12, Bermuda Tel: 441-295-5278 Email: Website:

what’s on

It’s May — summer’s here!

events n Theatre

May 1-3 and 7-10 The Bermuda Musical and Dramatic Society presents ‘Allo, ‘Allo. Daylseford Theatre, Hamilton, at 8 pm.

n Comedy May 2 Improv Bermuda presents Friday Laffy Hour at CV Café, 8 York Street, St George’s. This is a happy hour with a twist and aims to develop both creativity and confidence. 6pm to 8pm, entry $5 with wine, beer and goodies available.

n Fun day May 4 Summer Sundays in the Park “Lift Your Voices” includes live music, a food court and children’s activities in a lovely park setting. 3pm to 8pm at Victoria Park in Hamilton.

n Open house May 10 The Garden Club of Bermuda is hosting A May Wedding. Includes plant sale, weddingthemed fashion show, bake sale and garden tours. 10am to 4pm at Christ Church of Scotland, ‘Kirkdale’ and Cocoon, Warwick. Tickets are $20, $10 for children aged 10 to 18, and free for under 10s.


Victoria Park is the beautiful setting for a Fun Day on May 4.

Compiled by Sarah Lagan. Listings are subject to change. For the latest, contact the numbers provided/websites or visit To submit a listing, e-mail or call Sarah on 278-1865. 10 guide

There used to be a McDonald’s here

what’s on

n Cheers! May 20 Do you struggle with public speaking? Attend the Bermuda Toastmasters lecture at the Chamber of Commerce, 1 Point Pleasant Rd, 5:30pm to 7pm. bermudatm@

n Boat racing May 24 Bermuda fitted dinghy racing at 10.30 am, 1.30 pm and 3 pm. St. George’s Harbour.

n Public holiday May 26 Bermuda Day heralds the beginning of summer. The day includes a road race from Somerset to Hamilton, and a parade in Hamilton starting at 12.30pm. (See page 8)

n Fun night May 30 Fantastic Friday includes a WKD Glow Party & laser show, shot girls, giveaways and VIP option. DJs: YGS; D’General the Soca King; iBreeze aka King Jyrus; Rahlou (NYC); DJ Quesera (NYC). 11pm to 3am. Pier 6 Bermuda, Front Street, Hamilton. Tickets at Kit & Caboodle and Secrets, $25.

n Opera on film May 31 The Metropolitan Opera in HD – Mozart’s Cosi fan tutte. Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute, 5pm to 8:30pm. Tickets $35 ($30 for students) from

n City tour Monday through Friday Join the Town Crier at 10.30am for a guided walk through Bermuda’s capital. City Hall on Church Street, Hamilton. Free.

n Reenactment Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday Historic reenactment in the Royal Naval Dockyard’s Victualling Yard followed by a guided tour of this 19th century British military outpost. 9.30am to 10.30am. guide 11

what’s on

It never snows or freezes in Bermuda n Spectacle Monday through Thursday, and Saturday Witness the public punishment of the gossiping wench at the ducking stool. King’s Square, St. George’s, at 12 noon.

n Street festival Wednesday Enjoy a food court, children’s area, local artisans and vendors at the Harbour Nights street festival. Kicks off with a performance by the Gombeys. 7pm to 10pm, Hamilton.

n Afternoon tea Wednesday and Saturday Sweet P hosts Afternoon Tea featuring local produce. The Bermuda Perfumery, Stewart Hall, Queen Street, St George’s, from 1pm to 4pm, $28. For reservations call 705-2390 or e-mail sweetpbermuda@

n Art tour Every Thursday Take a guided tour of the national art collection at the Bermuda National Gallery. 10:30-11:30am. Free. At City Hall, Hamilton. Tel. 295-9428.

n Music Every Thursday Enjoy a lively night of music with the Glass Onion Band. Each concert opens with a tribute to John Lennon. Bonefish Bar & Grill, 6 Dockyard Terrace from 7pm to 11pm.

n Trivia Every Thursday Trivia with Mike Bishop. Swizzle Inn, Bailey’s Bay. From 8pm, reservations recommended.

n Market Every Saturday Local produce, crafts and fresh baked goods at the City Market. Pier Six on Front Street, Hamilton, from 8am to 1pm.

n Music Every Saturday Traditional sounds of Bermuda join forces

Take a tour Experience a more intimate, personal and local tour of Bermuda with Heidi Cowen’s Byways Tours. Heidi is a fifth-generation Bermudian who comes from a line of Lighthouse Keepers from Gibbs Hill Lighthouse in Southampton. Her tours revolve around her historical knowledge and love for the beauty of her Island. Tours are generally between 5 - 6 hours and include a lunch stop at the tiny Grannie’s Kitchen on North Shore, where Grannie prides herself on her home-made, fresh, local food. After a peaceful lunch in a nearby park, the tour continues to the other end of this island while Heidi regales her charges (only about 6 per tour) with her historical knowledge and quirky local stories. 441-535-9169 with modern tunes at the Big Chill’s new offering – The Big Calypso. Joy T Barnum, Tony Brannon, Andrew Chamberlain, Tony Cox and Felix Tod revive songs from the early days of Calypso such as The Talbot Brothers to the latest Trinidadian beats. From 7pm at The Reefs hotel.

n Walk Every Sunday The Walking Club of Bermuda hosts walks from 7am with an average length of 6 miles. Meet in the main parking area at start location. Refreshments provided at end. Visitors welcome. May 4 - Cavendish Car Park, Hamilton; May 11 - Modern Mart, South Road, Paget; May 18 - Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse, Southampton; May 25 - John Smith’s Bay, Smith’s. guide 13

what’s on

Bermuda’s motto, Quo Fata Ferunt, n Open mic Every Sunday Open mic jam session takes place at Chewstick Lounge and Café on Elliott Street, Hamilton from 8pm to 1am.

n Fort St Catherine




Every day Stone artillery fort and museum, at St. Catherine’s Beach, St. George’s. Settlers built the first wooden fort here in 1612. The site was in use until the late 19th century. Open 9:30am-4pm. Admission $7, seniors $5 and children $3 . Tel. 297-1920.

n Carter House

Visit Bermuda’s One and Only Jungle

Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday 17th-century house detailing the history of the early settlers and St David’s Island plus a replica of a settler’s dwelling. Southside Road, St David’s. 10am-4pm. Free, donations welcome. Call first. Tel. 293-5960.

Snorkel with Tropical Fish

n National Museum of Bermuda

Experience Cave Swimming

Every day 9.30 am to 5pm (last admission 4pm). Adults $12, seniors $10, children under-13 free. Royal Naval Dockyard. Tel. 2341418,


Stroll Along Secluded Beaches SUMMER EXCURSIONS Summer all-inclusive trips include Tom Moore’s Jungle & cave exploring, St. David’s Head, St. David’s Lighthouse, & snorkelling at Cooper’s Island. WINTER EXCURSIONS Winter all-inclusive trips include Tom Moore’s Jungle, Fort Hamilton, and The Vines in Southlands. Should be physically fit for walking rough terrain.


n Bermuda Historical Society Museum Mondays to Fridays 400 years of Bermuda history at the Library building on Queen Street, Hamilton, 10am-2pm. Free. Tel. 295-2487.

n Bermuda National Trust Mon to Fri Waterville Historic House and Gardens. The story of the Trimingham family in Bermuda who resided in the house for seven generations. 9am to 5pm. Admission by donation. Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays Verdmont Historic House and Garden. Antiques including cedar furniture and portraits. Adults $5, children $2, open 10am-4pm. Verdmont Lane, Smith’s. www. Tel: 236-6483.

what’s on

means ‘whither the fates carry us’ n Historic Tucker House Wednesdays to Saturdays Historic Tucker House —18th century merchant’s house, St George’s. Adults $5, children $2. Open 11am-3pm. St. George’s. Tel. 297-0545. Call for additional information 236-6483.

n Museum Mondays to Saturday Bermuda National Trust Museum at the Globe Hotel. Bermuda’s role in the American Civil War. Adults $5, children $2. Open 10am-4pm. Duke of York Street, St. George’s. Tel. 297-1423. Call for additional information 236-6483.

n Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute Every day Open 10am, last admittance 4pm. Adults $15, seniors $12, children aged 6-17 $8, children under-five go free.

n Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences Tour First Wednesday of every month Hour-long tour of this marine research centre. 10am. Free. Biological Lane, Ferry Reach, St. George’s. Tel. 297-1880. Email

n Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art Until September: A Tale of Two Cities — Hamilton and St George’s in artwork from the Masterworks Collection; Until June: Ever the Twain Shall Meet. Mark Twain — memorabilia from the Mark Twain House & Museum, Hartford, Connecticut. Monday to Saturday, 10am-4pm, and Sunday 11am-4:30pm, $5 admission, free for members and children under-12. Wheelchair access. Homer’s Café for refreshments. Botanical Gardens, Paget. Tel. 299-4000.

n Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard Monday to Sunday 10am-5pm. Free. Maritime Lane, Royal Naval Dockyard. Tel. 234-2809. www.

n St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden Monday to Saturday Historic 18th century home. 10am-4pm, $5. 3 Featherbed Alley, St George’s. Tel. 297-0423.

arts n Bermuda National Gallery Artwork by renowned local and international artists. Free. Monday to Friday, 10am4pm, and Saturday, 10am-2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel. 295-9428.

n BNG East Every day 11am-4pm. Bridge House, 1 Bridge St, St George’s. Tel. 297-9428.  

n Bermuda Society of Arts Monday to Friday, 10am-4pm, and Saturday, 10am-2pm. City Hall, Church Street, Hamilton. Tel. 292-3824.


Delve into our past at the delightful St George’s Historical Society Museum. guide 15

Welcome! A bronze statue of English naval hero Sir George Somers greets visitors to Ordnance Island, St George’s.

Y our personal invitation to St. George’s

THERE ARE FEW PLACES in the world where a town has survived and functioned essentially unchanged for the past 400 years. There is only one in the New World: The Towne of St. George in Bermuda. UNESCO designated “St. George’s and its Related Fortifications” as a World Heritage Site in the year 2000. For all that Bermuda is so noticeably a ‘Different World’ than America, our roots are tightly intertwined. In 1609 the ship ‘Sea Venture’ grounded just off St. George in a storm. She was on

her way to Jamestown — then a fledgling settlement — and carried the new Governor of Virginia. These were actually the first Bermuda residents. They spent the next 10 months building two ships to complete their journey. The Deliverance and the Patience, laden with survivors and food, sailed up the Chesapeake to Jamestown just in time to save the settlement from starvation. The relationship continued through the era of the Declaration of Independence and later the tragedy of the Civil War, and actually continues to this day. What makes St. George so unique is that nearly every building is original. The 20plus major buildings protected by the Bermuda National Trust in St. George, along with the Town’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its close

Griffin’s Bistro At St.George’s Club ( 441) 297-4235

8 7

see the sights


Good morning! The always-cheery Johnny Barnes, our ‘goodwill ambassador’

Living legend Johnny Barnes will set you on your way HE’S THE ULTIMATE ‘morning person’ and a warm greeting from folk hero Johnny Barnes is the ideal way to start your sightseeing tour. Every weekday he’s at Crow Lane roundabout from 6am to 10am, showering city commuters with waves, blown kisses and a smile that could melt the heart of even the most jaded traveller. We begin our tour in the historic former capital, St. George’s. Wherever you go, don’t forget to greet all you meet: as Johnny reminds us each morning — it’s the Bermuda way! Using our maps It’s easy to find your way around Bermuda. There are four main arteries: South Road runs along the south shore, North Shore Road hugs the north shore, Middle Road runs through the centre of the island and Harbour Road follows the inner harbour, across from Hamilton. Each road brings you into the city of Hamilton. Key attractions are numbered on our maps and described in the text.

Use our large pullout map (between pages 16 & 17) for an island overview; for a map of St. George’s, see page 18, the City of Hamilton on 24, and Dockyard on 29. Also, ‘W’ at the end of a listing denotes ‘wheelchair accessible’.

Parishes In 1609 the survivors of the English wreck of the Sea Venture struggled onto Bermuda’s shores, well short of their guide 17

see the sights

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Cruise ship terminal

Penno’s Wharf F

intended destination of Jamestown, Virginia. By 1615 the Somers Island Company was developing Bermuda and exploiting her natural resources. The island was surveyed and what is now St. George’s Parish was set aside as public or company land. The remainder was divided into eight tribes or parishes, named after the principal shareholders in the Somers Island Company. These were, from east to west: Hamilton, Smith’s, Devonshire, Pembroke, Paget, Warwick, Southampton and Sandys. Along with St. George’s, they have become the nine parishes of Bermuda. 18 guide

ST. GEORGE’S PARISH Bermuda’s oldest town, St. George’s, was founded in 1612 and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. It was our capital until 1815, when Hamilton became the capital. 1-17 are on our detailed map above. 1 St. Peter’s, Their Majesties Chappell, Duke of York St., is the oldest Anglican church outside the British Isles. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm, Services Wed 8am, Sun 11:15am. Suggested donation of $5 per adult. Call ahead for group visits. Tel: 297-2459 2 Bermuda National Trust Museum

ladies’ petticoats as they walked. at the Globe Hotel, corner Duke of York St. & King’s Square. Built by Governor Samuel Day, circa 1700. The offices of the Confederate agent, Major Norman Walker, were housed here during the American Civil War (1861-1865). The museum highlights Bermuda’s American Civil War involvement along with a video presentation ‘Bermuda: Centre of the Atlantic’. For opening hours tel. 236-6483 or 297-1423. Closed on Public Holidays. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. Gift Shop. *Combination tickets to all 3 museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 3 Tucker House, Water Street. Built in the 1750s. Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council, moved here in 1775 and his family stayed until 1809. On view are antique heirlooms from one of Bermuda’s oldest families and a room furnished as a tribute to Joseph Rainey, the first black man to be seated in the U.S. House of Representatives. The cellar houses a permanent archaeological exhibit. For opening hours tel. 236-6483 or 297-0545. Admission: adults $5, children (6-18 years) $2. *Combination tickets to all 3 museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont). 4 St. George’s Post Office, open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm. Tel. 297-1610 5 World Heritage Centre, at Penno’s Wharf in the Queen’s Warehouse, circa 1860. History is brought to life through the St. George’s Foundation’s restoration of this building. Enjoy the Orientation Exhibits Gallery, ‘A Gateway to Bermuda’ and film ‘A Stroll through St. George’s’. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm. Adults $5, seniors $3, students $2. Tel. 297-5791. Also home to Second Hand Rose Charity Shop. W 6 Stocks & Pillory and the Ducking Stool re-enactment at King’s Square. See the ‘gossiping wench’ get ducked in the harbour at noon on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thurs & Saturdays. 7 Deliverance, a full-scale replica of the

see the sights

ship built by the Sea Venture castaways to take them on to Virginia. Located across the bridge from King’s Square, on Ordnance Island. For opening hours, tel. 297-5791. Adults $3, children $2. 8 Town Hall, facing King’s Square, the meeting place of the Corporation of St. George’s. Open 9am-4pm, Mon-Sat except holidays. W 9 State House, above and behind the Town Hall, one of the oldest British stone structures in the New World, dating from 1620. Originally the seat of government, now a Masonic Lodge. Open Wednesdays, 10am-2pm, May to October. 10 The Bermudian Heritage Museum, junction of York & Water Streets, showcases accomplishments of black Bermudians. Open Mon-Fri, 10am-3 pm. Entry $4, seniors $3, children $2. Tel. 297-4126. W (lower floor only). 11 St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden, Featherbed Alley. This historic house, a museum since 1922, features cedar furniture, paintings, and other local relics along with a replica of an early 16th-century Gutenberg press. Open Mon to Sat, 10am-4 pm. Adults $5, children $2. Tel. 297-0423


Don’t forget those postcards… send them from the Post Office in the heart of St George’s. guide 19

see the sights

Car rentals are not permitted in Bermuda. historic Stewart Hall, 5 Queen Street. For more than 80 years, the Bermuda Perfumery has been creating and manufacturing perfumes. All are made on the premises. Take a free tour and sample unique fragrances. Open Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm. Tel. 293-0627 Refer to the large pullout map.


There’s a lovely beach just below historic Fort St Catherine 12 The Old Rectory, Broad Alley, behind St. Peter’s Church. Captain George Dew built this Bermuda cottage circa 1699. A private residence owned by the Bermuda National Trust. Exterior viewing only. Tel. 236-6483 13 Unfinished Church. Top of Duke of Kent St. This magnificent Gothic revival structure was meant to be a replacement for St. Peter’s Church. Started in the 1870s, it was beset by financial difficulties, parish infighting and a damaging storm. It was abandoned on the eve of its completion. 14 Fort St. Catherine, off Barry Road. 19th-century fort contains cannon, guns, military exhibits. Open daily, 9:30am4:30pm. Last entry at 4 pm. Adults $7, children 5 to 15, $3 (must be accompanied by an adult), seniors $5. Tel. 297-1920 W 15 Gates Fort dates from the early 17th century. Originally a small sea battery of three guns. Open during daylight hours. 16 Somers Garden, Duke of York Street. British Admiral Sir George Somers was shipwrecked in Bermuda in 1609, continued his journey to Virginia and then returned to the island in 1610. When he died in Bermuda his heart was buried near here and his body was taken to England. Open daily 7.30am-7pm 17 The Bermuda Perfumery is located in

20 guide

18 Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences, Ferry Reach. On the first Wednesday of each month at 10am visit this worldrenowned research station. Take a free tour of the laboratories, grounds and learn about ongoing projects. Tel. 297-1880 19 L.F. Wade International Airport 20 Carter House. An historic stone structure thought to be the oldest dwelling in St. David’s and a replica settlers dwelling. No entrance fee, donations encouraged. Open Tues, Weds, Thurs and Sat and the first Sun of every month. Tel. 293-5960 21 Great Head National Park. At the end of Battery Road, St. David’s, lies a 20th-century abandoned fortification surrounded by open spaces, plus a Lost at Sea Memorial. 22 St. David’s Lighthouse, built in 1879. Stands at the top of Lighthouse Hill Road. For opening hours, tel. 236-5902.

HAMILTON PARISH Named after James Hamilton, second Marquis of Hamilton, an original member of the Somers Islands Company. Refer to the large pullout map.

After leaving the Causeway, go up Blue Hole Hill to the junction of Wilkinson Ave & North Shore Rd. You are now in Bailey’s Bay. 23 Crystal Caves, 8 Crystal Caves Rd, Hamilton Parish. Formed more than 30 million years ago and discovered in 1905 when 14-year-old Bernard Wilkinson stumbled upon a cave opening. He was later lowered down the 140-foot drop where he saw magnificent crystal stalactites and stalagmites

see the sights

Spittal Pond is great for strolls,

that surround a clear 55-foot deep lake. Tours 9:30am-4:30pm year round. One cave, adults $22; children under 13, $10; under 5, free. Combination tickets, adults $30; children under 13, $12; under 5, free. Last combination tour 3:45pm, last tour of the day at 4.30pm. Tel. 293-0640 26 Holy Trinity Church, Trinity Church

Road. The Anglican Church of Hamilton Parish offers a scenic and tranquil respite from sightseeing. 27 Blue Hole Hill Park. Located just over the Causeway, the park joins Walsingham Nature Reserve and Tom Moore’s Jungle and provides an excellent walking trail, with caves and fish ponds.

SMITH’S PARISH Named after one of the nine chief investors of the Somers Isles (Bermuda) Company, Sir Thomas Smith. Refer to the large pullout map. 29 The Bermuda Aquarium, Museum & Zoo boasts native fish, exotic reptiles, free-flying birds, and pink flamingos in a beautiful, colourful setting. Exhibits include ‘North Rock’, a 140,000-gallon
replica of a local living coral reef, and ‘Islands of Australasia’, the interactive ‘Discovery Cove’, new ‘Madagascar’ exhibit and scenic ‘Coastal Walkway’. The Natural History Museum focuses on the island’s geology,

native biodiversity and habitats. Open daily 9am-5pm. (last admission 4pm). Adults $10, children (5-12 years) $5. Tel. 293-2727 W 30 Flatts Bridge. Wander across to quaint Flatts Village with its magnificent views of the Inlet and Harrington Sound. 32 Spittal Pond, South Road. This 64-acre reserve is part of a necklace of wetlands along the south shore, providing a diversity of habitats and a wide variety of birds, especially during migrations. Open daily dawn to dusk, admission free. Tel. 236-5902 33 Verdmont, corner of Collector’s Hill & Sayle Road. Built about 1710 in the Georgian style, Verdmont houses our finest collection of antique Bermuda cedar furniture, porcelain, portraits, children’s furniture and toys. A new exhibit highlights the people who lived at Verdmont. For opening hours tel. 236-6483 or 236-7369. Closed holidays. Adults $5, children 6-18 years, $2. *Combination tickets to three museums $10 (#2 Bermuda National Trust Museum, #3 Tucker House, #33 Verdmont).

DEVONSHIRE PARISH Named after William Cavendish, 1st Earl of Devonshire. Refer to the large pullout map. 34 Palm Grove, South Road. Wellmanicured private estate has an unusual bas-relief ‘water map’ of Bermuda, an aviary and many varieties of palms. Open Mon-Thurs 8am-5pm (closed holidays). 35 Montpelier Arboretum, Middle Road. A tranquil retreat featuring a wide range of island trees and plants.

PAGET PARISH Named after William Paget, 4th Baron Paget de Beaudesert. Refer to the large pullout map. PHOTO BY KAGEAKI SMITH?

Who, me? Make friends with a turtle at the must-visit aquarium & zoo.

22 guide

36 King Edward VII Memorial Hospital,

Point Finger Road. See page 53. Tel. 2362345

see the sights

bird-watching and picnics 37 Botanical Gardens, Berry Hill, Point Finger & South Roads. Open daily sunrise to sunset. Enjoy hundreds of well-marked flowers, shrubs and trees. Admission free. On Tue, Wed & Fri mornings free tours at 10:30am, departing from the car park outside the entrance to the Visitors’ Centre, weather permitting. Visitors’ Centre usually open 9am to 1 pm, Mon - Fri. W 38 Camden, South Road, in the grounds of the Botanical Gardens. Official residence of the Premier. Open Tues & Fri noon-2pm, weather permitting. 39 Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art, includes Bermuda-inspired work by Winslow Homer and Georgia O’Keeffe, plus changing exhibits. Open Mon-Sat 10am-4pm, Sundays 11am-4.30pm, closed public holidays. Adults $5, children under 12 free. Tel. 299-4000. Homers Café open 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, Sundays 11am-4pm. Tel. 299-4001 W 40 Waterville. An elegant house, built circa 1725, now the HQ of the Bermuda

National Trust. See the Bermuda Rose Society’s showcase garden and the Mary-Jean Mitchell Green Memorial Garden & Gazebo. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, admission free. Tel. 236-6483 41 Paget Marsh and Boardwalk, Paget Parish. Lush 25-acre nature reserve, a joint project of the Bermuda National Trust & Bermuda Audubon Society. The pond and marsh attract many birds. Open daily, daylight hours, free. Tel. 236-6483

PEMBROKE PARISH Named after English aristocrat William Herbert, 3rd Earl of Pembroke (1580-1630). Home of our capital city of Hamilton since 1815. Refer to large pullout map and see our 
 detailed City Map on page 24 42 Barr’s Bay Park, on Hamilton Harbour beside the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club on Pitt’s Bay Road. Sit in the sun and watch Continued on page 26

“BUEI is a Treasure” “Great time for all”

A must-see attraction!

“Fantastic Shell Collection” “Great Place!” “Fascinating Place to Visit!” “Cool artifacts!” “Who Knew?!”




Open 7 days a week from 10am - 5pm (last admission at 4pm) 15 minute walk from Hamilton Ferry Terminal | | 292.7219 guide 23

see the sights





24 guide






















To F ort Hamilton

Bermuda’s capital city, Hamilton, is

J Historical Residential Buildings Corner of Dundonald and King Streets K A detour may be

C Cedar Avenue

D St Theresa’s Cathedral Corner Cedar Avenue and Angle Street

Elliott and Princess Streets

outside staircases and verandahs Corner of

and rare G Attractive 1800’s built buildings,

F Alaska Hall Corner of Angle and Court Streets

E The Centre Junction of North and Angle Streets

R The Sessions House and Magistrates Court Corner of Parliament and Reid Streets S Freemasons Hall Corner of Reid Street and Chancery Lane

Q Cenotaph and Cabinet Building, Front Street opposite Cenotaph

P Custom House Warehouse, 1794 Corner Court and Front Streets

Court Street between Church & Reid Streets

the oldest functioning Friendly Society Lodge

N The 1937 Recorder Building Court Street between Victoria and Church Streets O Alexandria Lodge,


Points A - Y on Map

Recommended route

Return to City Hall.

Y The Anglican Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity Corner of Burnaby and Church Streets

Corner of Queen and Reid Streets X The Arcade Corner of Reid and Burnaby Streets

National Library and the Bermuda Historical Society Museum

V Corner of Front and Queen Streets, a detour may be taken westward to Albouy’s Point & Barr’s Bay Park W The Bermuda

U Old Yacht Club Steps on Front Street

Commercial Buildings best viewed from south side South side of Front St. opposite Chancery Ln.

T Prominent Historical


For a full description of the historical locations identified visit

M St Paul AME Church Corner of Victoria and Court Streets

Corner of King and Victoria Streets L Manchester Unity Hall Victoria Street at Joell’s Alley

taken at this point to Fort Hamilton

I Dr E.F. Gordon Square on Dundonald Street

B Eastern gate of Victoria Park on Cedar Avenue

Begin at City Hall.

H Corner of Dundonald and Court Streets

A The City Hall Church Street in front of City Hall

City of Hamilton Walkway of History

antipode to Perth, Western Australia.

see the sights guide 25

see the sights

Just wide enough for a mast, Somerset

Continued from page 23 the boats sail by. W 43 Point Pleasant Park by the waterfront, Albuoy’s Point, next to the Ferry Terminal. Relax on a bench, bring a picnic lunch. W 44 The Birdcage, a photogenic traffic kiosk at the corner of Front & Queen Streets. 45 Perot Post Office, Queen Street. An architectural gem and a handy spot to buy stamps, transport passes, tickets and tokens. Credit cards accepted. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm Tel. 292-9052 W 46 Bermuda National Library & Historical Society Museum, Queen Street. Set in the gardens of Queen Elizabeth Park. Library has free internet access, local studies room and displays on Bermuda’s culture. Open Mon-Thurs 8:30am-6pm, Fri 10am-5pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sun closed. Tel. 295-2905. Museum open 10am-2pm Mon-Fri (May–Oct); 10:30am–1pm Mon, Tues, Wed, Fri (Nov–April); closed holidays. Free. Tel. 295-2487 W 47 City Hall, 17 Church Street, one of Hamilton’s most beautiful public buildings. Houses City Hall Theatre, the Mayor’s Parlour and Corporation of Hamilton offices. Tel. 292-1234. The Bermuda National Gallery is on the second floor (tel. 295-9428), featuring both historic and contemporary local and international art. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Guided tours Thursdays, 10:30am. Free. Also home to the Bermuda Society of Arts Gallery, which hosts rotating exhibitions. Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat 10am-2pm, closed holidays. Free. Tel. 292-3824 W 48 Central Bus Terminal, Washington Street, close to City Hall. All routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave from here. See page 52. 49 Queen Elizabeth Park, Queen Street, Hamilton. A haven for relaxation in the middle of our bustling city, named to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II. W 50 Victoria Park, Cedar Avenue. Lovely

26 guide

park created in the 1880s to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria. W 51 Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity, Church Street, a neo-Gothic city landmark. Open 8am-5pm. The cathedral tower, with panoramic views of the city, is open 9am4pm Mon-Fri. Audio tours $3, tower entry $3. Sunday service at 8am and 10am. Tel. 292-4033 W 52 General Post Office, corner of Parliament & Church Streets. Open Mon-Fri 8am5pm, Sat 8am-noon W 53 Sessions House. The House of Assembly meets Fridays at 10am. Visitors are permitted in the gallery; dress appropriately. Tel. 292-7408. Tours take place MonThurs, 10.30am-12noon and 2.30-3.30pm. The Supreme Court is located on the lower floor of the Sessions House; visitors are permitted. 
Tel. 292-1350 W 54 The Cabinet Building, Front and Parliament streets. Here the Senate (our upper house) meets Wednesdays at 10am. Visitors are permitted. Fronted by the Cenotaph on Front Street, a memorial to war veterans, and Sally Bassett statue. Tel. 292-5501 55 Bermuda National Library Youth Division, 74 Church Street. Open Mon-Thurs & Sat 9am-5pm, Fri 10am-5pm. Tel. 295-0487 56 Fort Hamilton, approached by Victoria & King Streets & Happy Valley Road. A restored fort, its moat is filled with native plants. Spectacular views of the city and harbour. Open daily 9am-5pm. Free. W 57 The Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI), a 15-minute walk from the city centre, on East Broadway. Two floors of interactive exhibits revealing the mysteries of the ocean. Experience deep-sea exploration through the eyes of world-renowned explorers including Bermuda’s own Teddy Tucker. See artefacts and treasure recovered from shipwrecks around Bermuda. Gift shop and waterside restaurant, The Harbourfront. Open seven days, 9am-5pm, last admission 4pm. Members free, adults $15, seniors $12,

Bridge is the world’s smallest drawbridge.

see the sights


Old and tiny: Exquisite Heydon Chapel, built in the 1600s, is set in lovely grounds.

children (6-17) $8, children (under 6) free. Tel. 297-7314. W 58 Johnny Barnes Statue. Just down the road from the BUEI, a life-size statue of our unofficial ambassador of goodwill, Johnny Barnes (see page 17), by sculptor Desmond Fountain. 59 Government House, North Shore Road & Langton Hill. The imposing residence of His Excellency the Governor.

of Southampton (1573-1624). Boasts many beaches including the most popular, Horseshoe Bay Beach.



Named after Robert Rich, 2nd Earl of Warwick (1587-1658). Centrally located with many beautiful beaches along the South Shore.

Named after English aristocrat Sir Edwin Sandys (1561-1629). The western-most parish, made up of five islands.

Refer to the large pullout map. 60 Christ Church, historic Presbyterian

Church dating back to 1719, one of the oldest in the western hemisphere. 61 Warwick Pond. Take a walk on the interpretive woodland nature trail in this nine-acre nature reserve, with Bermuda’s second-largest fresh water pond. Open daylight hours.

SOUTHAMPTON PARISH Named after Henry Wriothesley, 3rd Earl

Refer to the large pullout map. 62 Gibbs Hill Lighthouse provides pan-

oramic views and there’s a restaurant, too, The Dining Room. Lighthouse open daily 9am-4:30pm. Adults $2.50, children (4 and under) free. Tel. 238-0524

Refer to the large pullout map. 63 Somerset Bridge is the smallest drawbridge in the world; just wide enough to let the mast of a sailboat pass through. 64 Scaur Hill Fort, Somerset Road. Enjoy breathtaking views of the Great Sound and Ely’s Harbour. Open daily 7:30am-4pm, free. Grounds open 24 hours. Tel. 236-5902. 65 Heydon Trust, 43 acres of meticulously preserved grounds, filled with indigenous plants. The tiny, exquisite chapel was built in the 1620s. Open daily, dawn till dusk, free. guide 27

see the sights

Use pink bus stops for travel into Hamilton 66 St. James’ Church, the Anglican church of Somerset, has a graceful spire and imposing walkway. 67 Springfield & Gilbert Nature Reserve, Somerset. This National Trust Property once comprised a small plantation. Springfield, the old mansion with buttery and slave quarters, dates back to 1740. Five acres of walking trails. 68 Somerset Village overlooks charming Mangrove Bay. Stop for a meal or some shopping.

Embrace Your Dreams Experience the magic of dreams coming true in our inspiring and unforgettable dolphin encounters.


441-234-4464 A portion of the proceeds supports vital marine education, conservation and research.

28 guide

Enter the Royal Naval Dockyard through stone gates. This major attraction includes the Clocktower Shopping Mall, Bermuda Craft Market, the Bermuda Arts Centre, restaurants and water sports — all housed in restored naval buildings. 70 Dockyard Visitor Information Centre is near the fast ferry dock. Open daily, 9am4pm. Tel. 542-7104 71 The National Museum of Bermuda includes the Commissioner’s House, which exhibits our rich nautical history and extensive artefact collections. Open daily, 9:30am-5pm, last admission 4pm. Adults $10, senior citizens $8 and children 12 and under free, if accompanied by an adult. Tel. 234-1418. W 72 Dolphin Quest Bermuda, Dockyard. Enjoy an extraordinary encounter with dolphins. Open 9:30am-4:30pm daily. Reservations required. 
Tel: 234-4464 or toll free 800-248-3316 73 The Bermuda Craft Market in the Old Cooperage features Bermuda cedar work, candle and jewellery making, pottery, banana dolls and many other crafts, with demonstrations by local artisans. Open daily 9am-5pm and until 8pm when cruise ships are in port. Tel: 234-3208. W 74 The Bermuda Arts Centre features studios housing various artists and exhibits which change every few weeks. A shop offers an extensive range of locally made gifts, paintings, sculptures and a wide print selection. Open daily 10am-5pm (closed

see the sights

and blue for heading away from the city. Royal Naval Dockyard T Taxi

Bermuda Clayworks

Dockyard Glassworks & Bermuda Rum Cake Company

Maritime Lane Storehouse Lane



69 Watersports Centre

Clocktower Shopping Mall

Visitor Information Centre


Bermuda Arts Centre

Camber Road

Victualling Yard



Cloc ktow er P arad e

Snorkel Park Beach



Bermuda Craft Market

Commissioner’s House

National Museum of Bermuda

70 Dolphin Quest



No rth

Dockyard Marina


Ferry Stop

Visitor Information Centre

Cruise Ship Terminal


Visitor Information Centre

Good Friday & Christmas Day). Tel. 2342809 W 75 Clocktower Shopping Mall boasts


a delightful collection of boutiques and branch stores in a charming, covered mall. W guide 29



The Masterworks Museum boasts a wonderful collection of Bermuda-themed artworks.

Our lively arts scene By SARAH LAGAN |  Our small

n Bermuda National Gallery

both past and present, plus international artists. Currently showing A Sense of Place featuring William Collieson, Antoine Hunt, Christina Hutchings, Peter Lapsley and Michael Walsh. BNG East, 1 Bridge Street, St George’s. Tel. 297-9428.

A repository for important works of art, The Bermuda National Gallery addresses social issues through its exhibitions. Current shows are Michael Walsh: Contemporary Conversation and Highlights from the BNG Collection. City Hall & Arts Centre, Hamilton. Tel. 295-9428.

n Bermuda Society of Arts Known affectionately as ‘the people’s gallery’, BSoA has contributors ranging from pro artists to schoolchildren and prisoners. The four galleries host around 50 shows a year. City Hall & Arts Centre, Hamilton. Tel. 292-3824.  

n BNG East

n National Museum of Bermuda

The Bermuda National Gallery’s new satellite location, BNG East, is located in a characterful National Trust property in St George’s. It showcases local artists

Exhibitions and displays range from Bermuda’s Defence Heritage, The Slave Trade and The Royal Navy Collections. Shipwreck Island: Sunken Clues to Bermuda’s Past

island is packed with art galleries, studios and museums. Our art hot spots include:

30 guide


Georgia O’Keefe painted in Bermuda celebrates Bermuda as the shipwreck capital of the Atlantic. Local artist Graham Foster’s epic historical mural is a must see. Dockyard. Tel. 234-1418. Opening hours Monday to Friday 10am to 4pm. Saturday and Sunday 10am to 5pm (guests must arrive at least one hour before closure).  

n Bermuda Arts Centre at Dockyard Here you might meet Bermuda’s artists who are residents, including Jonah Jones, Christopher Marson, Christopher Grimes and Chesley Trott. Also enjoy the ever-changing collections by the Plein Air Painters of Bermuda. Dockyard. Tel. 234-2809.

Masterworks The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art is home to an impressive collection of over 1,400 pieces of Bermuda-inspired Art. Some, by such famous names as Georgia O’Keefe, Marsden Hartley, Winslow Homer and Albert Gleizes, are part of the Permanent Collection. There is a constantly-evolving showcase of local artists, and visiting artists in residence, who paint Bermuda’s dynamic landscapes. Prints and original art are on sale in the Arrowroot Gift Shop. Homer’s Café serves baked goods, soups, paninis, and gluten-free products. Location: Botanical Gardens opposite Camden House. Wheelchair-accessible with ramps and elevator. Open Mon-Sat 10am – 4pm & Sun 11am-4:30pm. Admission $5, free for members and under 12. Seniors free on Monday’s. Closed on public holidays Tel.299-4000 www. guide 31

historic treasures


Master Jeweller Tim Palmer crafts coins into unique keepsakes.

Timeless elegance captured in exquisite keepsakes FROM THE EARLY sixteenth century, Spanish ships returning from their colonies in Central and South America embarked on the hazardous task of shipping their precious cargo from the New World back to the Old. They used Bermuda as a landmark, but some ended up stricken on our outer reefs. PHOTO BY NICOLA MUIRHEAD

As well as historic coins and many other unique keepsakes, Walker Christopher also crafts exquisite bracelets for babies.

32 guide

Many ships carried silver and gold, mined and minted into coinage in Mexico, Bolivia and Peru and

Juan Bermudez found Bermuda in 1505 historic treasures destined for the Spanish treasuries of Cadiz and Seville. Surviving crewmen were sometimes able to salvage their cargo but storms and hurricanes took their toll on many ‘treasure ships’ well before they caught sight of Bermuda. Salvaging from wrecks was tough. But Richard Norwood, hired as a diver in a futile search for Bermuda pearls, invented the Bermuda Tub in 1612. This primitive diving bell, made from a weighted wine cask, could be lowered over a wreck site and enabled a diver to stay underwater for 45 minutes. In 1641, it was used to recover silver from The Concepción, which came to grief north of Hispaniola (Dominican Republic and Haiti), carrying tons of silver and gold. In 1715, the Spanish Plate Fleet sank in a hurricane off Florida. While the Spanish were salvaging, their base camp was raided by privateer Henry Jennings, who fled with 120,000 pieces of eight. He retired to Bermuda to live the life of a gentleman. Sea-salvaged coins still have strong appeal; the law forbids you to keep anything found at a wreck but you can find pieces of eight and gold doubloons for sale on Hamilton’s Front Street. Master Jeweller Tim Palmer of Walker Christopher Goldsmiths sets gold and silver treasure coins into handcrafted jewellery. While silver coins or “cobs” tarnish and become encrusted in coral (they are often found in clusters), gold coins remain the same as the day they went to the bottom of the ocean. Owning a significant old coin puts you in touch with the past, as coins bear the weight of history. n

Treasure coins from shipwrecks around the world, set in 14k and 18k gold.


NO. 9 FRONT STREET, HAMILTON Telephone (441)295-1466 guide 33



Discover how our ancestors lived at the St George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden, located at the corner of Featherbed Alley and Duke of Kent Street, St George’s.

Step back in time FOR AN ISLAND of just 21 square miles, we pack in a lot of history. Bermuda’s superb historic sites and museums help tell our unique story but also help unravel the extraordinary saga of the development of English settlements in the New World. Here are some of our best historic sites. n National Museum of Bermuda The largest collection of artifacts and weapons in Bermuda. See slave artifacts, jewellery, silver coins, pottery, boats and large, muzzle-loading guns. Dockyard. Open daily 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4pm). Tel: 234-1418

n National Trust Museum The Globe Hotel on the northwest corner of King’s Square in St. George’s was built in 1700 by Governor Samuel Day. It houses the Bermuda National Trust Museum, which features the exhibit ‘Rogues & Runners — 34 guide

Bermuda and the American Civil War’. For opening times, tel: 236-6483

n Verdmont A delightful Georgian style historic home at the top of Collector’s Hill, Smith’s Parish. A superb collection of antique Bermuda cedar and mahogany furniture. For opening times tel: 236-6483

n Bermuda Historical Society Museum Located in Queen Elizabeth Park, Hamilton, it was the home of Bermuda’s famous


Bermuda is the oldest British colony. postmaster William Bennett Perot. Exhibits include model of ships plus early Bermudian coins and silver. Open 10am-2pm, Mon-Fri. Tel: 295-2487

on our forts. Open daily, 10am-4pm, tel: 297-1920

n Tucker House

The oldest Anglican Church site in continuous use outside of the British Isles. The first church on the site was built by Governor Richard Moore in 1612. Some headstones in the churchyard date back more than 300 years. Duke of York Street, St. George’s. Open Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm, Sunday service 11.15am, tel: 297-2459

Tucker House, on Water Street, St. George’s, was the home of Henry Tucker, President of the Governor’s Council. Artifacts and portraits of the famous Tucker family include Thomas Tudor Tucker, the longest-serving treasurer of the U.S. Joseph Hayne Rainey, the first African-American elected member of the U.S. House of Representatives, once ran a barber’s shop here. For opening times, tel: 236-6483

n St. Peter’s Church, Their Majesties Chappell

n St. George’s Historical Society Museum, Printery & Garden

Located in Mitchell House, which dates from 1730 and is filled with original cedar furnishings, artwork and a working replica Overlooks Gate’s Bay, St. George’s, the landof a Gutenberg printing press. The kitchen ing place of the Sea Venture castaways in garden and above-ground water tank 1609. Features replicas of the British Crown demonstrate features of 18th-Century Jewels, a restored magazine, weapons of all Bermuda architecture. types (from pistols large, muzzle-loading 1-2toad 2014_Layout 2 1/31/14 2:04 PM Page 1 Open 10am-4pm, Mon-Saturday. Tel. 297 0423. guns), and an audiovisual presentation

n Fort St. Catherine

National Treasure Visit the National Museum of Bermuda, home to 500 years of island culture and history. See the massive mural of Bermuda history, our exhibit Shipwreck Island: Sunken clues to Bermuda’s past, and spectacular views.

Royal Naval Dockyard, Sandys Tel. 441-234-1418 • 9:30am–5pm (last admission 4pm). Call for winter hours


for children


Shelly Bay has a playground, beach — and a field nearby where kids can run and play.

Bermuda is child-friendly YOU’RE ON VACATION and the last thing you want to do is worry about keeping the kids happy and occupied. The good news is that Bermuda is a very child-friendly island. Lots to see and do for all ages. Here are a few parent-tested suggestions.

n Bermuda Aquarium, 
 Museum & Zoo (BAMZ) A must-visit, whatever your age. Gaze at sharks and barracuda in the dramatic North Rock Tank, get close to giant tortoises and dip into the touch pool. Leave time for the playground before you go (it’s just past the alligator and yes, it’s real!) Tel: 293-2727

n Beaches Next to famous Horseshoe Bay Beach in Southampton is what’s locally known as Baby Beach. Turn right as you walk onto

36 guide

Horseshoe and you’ll find this beautiful cove, shallow and calm and perfect for little ones. Another kid-friendly beach is Tobacco Bay in the east end. Perfect for snorkelling and swimming, with shallow water and protective rocks. Bathrooms and refreshments are available. Shelly Bay is great for paddling with young kids because it’s in a protected harbour, wave action is usually minimal and the water’s shallow for yards out. There’s a playground, too.

n Dockyard Take the fast ferry from Hamilton. At Snorkel Park, kids can swim, splash in the fountains or use the playground. Dolphin Quest (tel: 234-4464) is a short walk away.

n Botanical Gardens An ideal spot to burn energy, five minutes from Hamilton. Explore the gardens, green-

Our main beaches have lifeguards houses, palm groves and grassy hills. Kick a football, throw a Frisbee, bring a picnic.

n Bermuda Underwater 

 Exploration Institute (BUEI) Explore the ocean without getting wet! Stop in the seashell room and then take a simulated submarine dive to the lower level. Bring along a handful of American quarters for the little merry-go-round on the lower level. Tel: 292-7219

for children

ten play animated features and other childfriendly movies. The Speciality Cinema and Grill (tel: 292-2135) and Liberty Theatre (292-7296) are in the city of Hamilton, and Neptune Cinema (also 292-7296) is in Dockyard. See the Bermuda Sun newspaper for movie listings. If food’s the priority, kid-friendly eateries include La Trattoria, Rosa’s Cantina (both in the city) and The Speciality Inn, 10 minutes outside the city in Smith’s Parish.

n Playgrounds No matter where you are, there’s a playground nearby. Favourites include Warwick Long Bay and Clearwater Beach

n Tiny Tots at Masterworks The Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art (in the Botanical Gardens) offers art classes for tots on Wednesdays from 9.45-10.30am & 10.45-11.30am. Bring along your baby, toddler or preschooler for some art fun, story time and games. Members $7 / non-members $10. No sign-up necessary, just drop in. Tel. 299-4000 for more details.

n At night… We have three movie theatres and they of-

If you child is curious about the ocean and marine life, head to the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute. guide 37


Scan to view photo gallery PHOTO BY NICOLA MUIRHEAD

As the name of the tour suggests, Hidden Gems takes you to places you’d never find on your own.

Let us guide you By ALISON OUTERBRIDGE | A visit to Bermuda brings opportunities to explore cultural, historic and natural attractions island-wide with charismatic locals who love to share the unique charm of their island to visitors. A guided walking tour of the City of Hamilton, Bermuda’s capital, is led by the Town Crier at 10.30am, Monday through Friday. Take advantage of this free tour


Byways Tours usually make a stop midisland at beautiful Flatts Village.

38 guide

to see landmarks and explore neighbourhoods. The tour departs from City Hall and includes a visit to the Mayor’s Parlour. Don’t miss the chance to take a guided walking tour in the Town of St. George’s, our UNESCO World Heritage Site, where Bermuda’s history began. Explore winding lanes, alleys and gardens with the knowledgeable guide and take a walk back in time through Bermuda’s first settlement. The tour departs from King’s Square, Monday through Thursdays, at 10.30am. In the Royal Naval Dockyard, historic characters come to life followed by a tour of the British military outpost. Activities take place in the Victualling Yard Monday through Thursdays and begin at 9.30am.


Our coastline is 104km long Discover our best-kept secrets Hidden Gems of Bermuda Ltd. offers an experience of a lifetime exploring some of Bermuda’s best-kept secrets. Travel into the island’s one and only Tom Moore’s Jungle and enjoy with cave explorations and swimming adventures! Then take a look at the island’s landscape from a bird’s eye view on top of one of its highest peaks at St. David’s Head. This is also the location of a historic fort landmark adorned with canons around its perimeter. Right next door is

St. David’s Lighthouse. From the balcony at the top, another spectacular view awaits you. Lastly, travel to one of the island’s premier snorkelling locations. At Cooper’s Island you will have an opportunity to snorkel around a preserved coral reef island. You also have the option of staying on the secluded beach where you can wade in the shallows to your heart’s content. A backpack filled with lunch and necessary gear are provided for the day.

Visit your concierge desk or the Visitor Information Centres to collect a schedule. Heidi Cowen, a sixth generation Bermudian, runs Byways Tours and offers an upclose and personal look at the island from her eight-seater van. Her tours last five to six hours and revolve around her passion for her island home and its incredible history. Every tour includes a visit to Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse, where Heidi’s grandfather was the lighthouse keeper, plus a stop for a picnic lunch. She also caters to families, offering a shorter tour designed to engage parents and children in the natural and historic world of Bermuda with stops to feed fish, climb forts, look for caves and visit turtles. You can reach Heidi at 535 9169 or visit The adventurous visitor will enjoy a day out with Ashley Harris in her brightly painted Hidden Gems tour van. Ashley translates her love of nature into a fivehour tour with stops at nature reserves and a fort; the tour includes a packed lunch, snacks, water and snorkelling gear. Flashlights are provided for the visit to Tom Moore’s Jungle, a lush reserve with underground caves systems and natural fish ponds. A stop at the Bailey’s

Bay Ice Cream Parlour is followed by a visit to a historic fort, then a lighthouse which offers panoramic views. Last stop is for snorkelling at a pristine, secluded beach. To book a tour with Hidden Gems, call 704 0999 or visit www. n guide 39

sports & activities


The government-run tennis stadium is close to the city and its facilities are equally suitable for accomplished players and beginners.

A mecca for outdoors types IF YOU’RE THE SPORTY TYPE, you’ll find plenty to do on the island. Here’s a guide to what’s out there. See for detailed listings. n Golf Bermuda has more golf courses per square mile than any other country in the world. Some clubs are private, but many hotels can arrange tee times for their guests. From an enticing par-3 executive course to a championship-level course given the seal of approval by the PGA of America, Bermuda is a golfer’s paradise. All our courses are blessed with beautiful scenery. Be sure to toss a camera in your golf bag. If you want to get the kids involved, there is a mini golf course in Southampton for young families (tel. 238-8800) and a mini golf course at Dockyard. Our golf courses: Belmont Hills, Warwick, tel. 236-6400

40 guide

Fairmont Southampton, tel. 239-6952 Mid-Ocean, Hamilton Parish, tel. 293-0330 Ocean View (9 holes), Devonshire, tel. 295-9092 Port Royal, Southampton, tel. 234-0974 Riddell’s Bay, Warwick, tel. 238-1060 Rosewood Tucker’s Point, Hamilton Parish, tel. 298-6970 For kids, Bermuda Fun Golf is a terrific facility at Dockyard while on Middle Road, Southampton, you’ll find the equally enjoyable Bermuda Golf Academy (open every day, 9am-10pm; Sun & Mon close at 9pm). It’s a 300-yard driving range with 30 bays, 25 covered. PGA pros are available for lessons and there’s also an Adventure Mini


Babe Ruth golfed in Bermuda Golf course that meanders around ponds and waterfalls. There’s a bar, café and restaurant, too. Tel. 238-8800. Other sporting activities include deep sea fishing, cycling and bowling. See www. for details.

n Tennis Most courts are attached to hotels. Another option is the government-run tennis stadium, which has clay and hard courts. It’s on Marsh Folly Road, a 10-minute walk from Hamilton centre. Open 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat-Sun. Courts are $10 an hour (double it under floodlights). Tel: 292-0105.

n Deep-sea fishing With the deep ocean just offshore, Bermuda offers world-class fishing. Lots of pros are ready to take you out — among them, Baxter’s Reef Fishing, tel: 234-2963 (see pages 48 & 49)

n Water sports You can rent everything from kayaks, Boston whalers and windsurfers to Hobie Cats and Jet Skis. Bermuda is the shipwreck capital of the Atlantic and a mecca for SCUBA divers. See for full listings See pages 44 & 45 for snorkelling and 46 & 47 for shipwrecks.

n Cycling Our coastal roads and the route of the old railway trail are great for bikers. You can hire bicycles at Smatt’s Cycle Livery, tel: 295-1180 and Oleander Cycles tel. 295-0919. Each will cost you roughly $50 a day.

n Bowling For a rainy day or a family evening out, have fun at Warwick Lanes in Warwick, tel: 236-5290 or Strykz Bowling Lounge in St David’s, tel: 297-2727.

Scan to view video Stunning: Port Royal Golf Course offers spectacular views — and the chance to play where the PGA pros gather each year for the Grand Slam of Golf. guide 41


Scan here for panoramic view of the beach CREATIVE COMMONS PHOTO (CC BY-SA 2.0) BY JOSHUA DAVIS

No. 1: The wave action isn’t always this lively at Horseshoe Bay, but the water is always gloriously clear.

Best spots for sea & sun BREATHTAKING BEACHES are Bermuda’s most enduring attraction, from aquamarine pools and sandy bays to the famous pink sand of the south shore. Pack your sunscreen, hats, towels and and use our guide to hit one or more of the island’s top ten beaches. 10 John Smith’s Bay: Off the beaten track in Smith’s parish, this popular locals’ beach is a little less crowded than the south shore destinations but still boasts soft sand and great swimming and snorkelling. The Harrington Hundreds grocery store is just a few minutes away by moped if you want to make your own picnic. L, B 9 Cooper’s Island Nature Reserve: A tiny peninsula on the eastern edge of the island, only recently opened to the

public, Cooper’s Island is actually a series of small coves connected by almost a mile of walking trails. The larger but less picturesque (it’s all relative) Clearwater Beach is right next door. B 8 West Whale Bay: Named for the humpback whales that migrate past Bermuda in April and May each year, this is as good a place for whale watching as anywhere on the island. The grassy cliff-top that borders this Southampton beach is a great spot for a picnic.

KEY: Bathrooms - B Rentals - R Café - C Lifeguard - L 42 guide


Sand glimmers pink at twilight 7 Snorkel Park: A great beach for families, out west in vibrant Dockyard. There are inflatables for the kids to rent, great snorkelling for dad and beach loungers for mum. L, B, C, R 6 Warwick Long Bay: To truly grasp the beauty of Bermuda’s south shore, walk the length of Warwick Long Bay and clamber across the rocks, or take a detour over the sand dunes to Jobson’s Cove and Chaplin Bay. On a quiet day you will see more Longtails than fellow tourists. B, R (seasonal) 5 Shelly Bay: A parents’ dream beach, Shelly Bay boasts warm, shallow water, a soft sandy bottom and backs on to a playground and sports field. A favourite for kids and novice swimmers — and close to the bus stop. C, B 4 Church Bay: Swim with shoals of brightly coloured parrot fish among the pristine coral reef that pierces the water just yards from shore at this small south shore bay, widely revered as Bermuda’s

best beach for snorkellers. R, B 3 Elbow Beach: A half-mile of white sand boasting stunning views of the Atlantic, Elbow Beach, in Paget, is a playground for joggers, kiteboarders, beach volleyball players and SCUBA divers. There’s even a shipwreck within swimming distance of shore. You can join in the fun or just hire a deckchair and sit back and watch. C, B, R 2 Tobacco Bay: Famous for its stunning volcanic rock formations — natural sculptures that emerge from the glassy water — this picturesque, sheltered cove is also a snorkellers’ dream. A short walk from the old town of St. George. C, B, R 1 Horseshoe Bay: A crescent of soft, pink sand, lapped by clear blue water, fringed by sand dunes and bordered by sandstone cliffs, garnished with swaying palms — Horseshoe, in Southampton Parish, is the a must for every Bermuda visitor. C, B, R, L n


As the name suggests, Snorkel Park, at the western tip of our island, is great for watersports. guide 43



Can you see me now? Bermuda’s clear waters make snorkelling a joy.

A snorkeller’s paradise BERMUDA IS A CHAIN of more than 150 islands, islets and rocks, the coralline limestone peaks of an ancient volcano. Here lie some of the most pristine coral reefs in the world, setting the stage for world class snorkelling. The beautiful but shallow reefs are responsible for more than 400 shipwrecks, spanning five centuries. You can expect to swim in waters of 24-30 degrees Celsius with a visibility of 25 metres in the summer months (May to October). You will find superb snorkelling all the way around this 21 square mile island, but here are some of the best spots.

n Church Bay, Southampton It can be a little tricky wading in across the rocks, so wait until you are almost waist-

44 guide

deep in the water before you put your fins on. You will be rewarded by the variety of fish in and around the boiler reefs.

n Pompano Beach Club, Southampton Most South Shore beaches offer excellent snorkelling just a short hop from the water’s edge. But if you are feeling adventurous, hire a kayak at Pompano Beach Club and paddle out to the outer raft across the sandbar. Tie up and swim out to the adjacent reef to experience some beautiful snorkelling.

n Tobacco Bay, St George’s This sheltered, sandy bay is ideal for families. Its rocky outcrops and ancient coral formations are buzzing with marine life.

n Snorkel Park, Royal Naval Dockyard The park has a sheltered bay and is ideal for families. Under the walls of the fort you will find hard and soft corals, juvenile fish and maritime relics. There are musket balls

You might see a spotted eagle ray dating to the nineteenth century and cast iron cannons, dating from 1550 to 1800.

n The Constellation Snorkelling and dive operators can take you to Western Blue Cut to see two of our most famous shipwrecks. The Constellation was the inspiration for Peter Benchley’s novel The Deep, which was made into a film in 1977. This 192 ft four-masted schooner (built in 1918) served as a cargo vessel in World War II and was en route from New York to Venezuela in 1943 when she was swept onto the reefs and sank, in ten metres of water. Her cargo included bags of cement, cases of Scotch whisky and thousands of drug ampoules, many containing opium and morphine. The ampoules have all been removed but you can still see other relics such as china cups, ceramic tiles and bottles.

n The Montana Just 15 metres from the Constellation lies the Montana, built to run the Union blockade


of the Confederate states in the US Civil war. The 236ft paddle wheel steamer sank in 1863 and now sits in three pieces with her bow relatively intact and her paddle wheels and forward boiler still discernable.

n The Vixen HMS Vixen was a Royal Navy gunboat, scuttled in 1896 to block a narrow channel off Daniels’s Head, Somerset, to prevent possible torpedo attacks. She sits in eight metres of water with a protruding bow and is home to many different species of fish. This popular site is accessible only by boat. Fed by the waters of the Gulf Stream, Bermuda has many of the fish species found in the western Atlantic and Caribbean, including parrotfish (stoplight, blue and midnight varieties), yellowtail snapper, coneys, bluehead and creole wrasse, rock beauties, the puddingwife, squirrelfish, foureye butterflyfish, damselfish, sergeant majors, trumpetfish and spiny lobster. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot a turtle. n guide 45


Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse was only the 37


34 39







Atlantic Ocean

43 44 1



Royal Naval Dockyard

Somerset Long Bay Mangrove


t in Po lty ish an rk mira p Spanish S Pa Ad se u Point Hoark P

Bay ’




Hawkins Island



ac Be

25. Beaumaris Castle 26. Collector 27. Iristo 28. Elda 29. Taunton 30. Eagle 31. Manilla Wreck 32. Cristobal Colon 33. Curlew


y Ba


Both the old and more recent wrecks, scattered throughout the 200-squaremile reef system that surrounds the island, are protected by law against any unauthorized interference. The more popular dive sites are easily accessed from the island by boat, with an average depth of between 30 17. Katherine 18. Pelinaion 19. Zovetto or Rita Zovetto 20. Sea Venture 21. Wychwood 22. Colonel William G. Ball 23. Richard P. Buck 24. Avenger


ng ay eB

46 guide


10. Minnie Breslauer 11. Pollockshields 12. Apollo 13. Kate 14. Grotto Bay Barges 15. Warwick 16. H.M.S. Cerberus


Drydock Ramona H.M.S. Vixen Minerva Hunters Galley Mary Celeste Virginia Merchant 8. King 9. Hermes

n Lo

There are some four hundred wrecks to be found off Bermuda. The earliest date from the first quarter of the 16th century when the island became a landmark for Spanish ships sailing back to Spain from the New World.


Elbow Beach Coral Beach 7 6 Surfside Beach 9 8 Marley Beach oe

Bermuda’s shipwrecks


Hungry Bay ap Gr




ay rch B

i rw Wa y Ba






1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.



ey Whitnay B hale W t s We Bay











second cast iron lighthouse ever built. 31

Stories of the sea



Five must-visit Bermuda wrecks: 26


25 24 22 Toba cco B Achilles’ Bay ay Fort St. Catherine ST GEORGE’S 23 PARISH Martello Tower Coney Island Airport

Bailey's Bay

Crystal Caves


Castle Island Tucker's Town

Smiths Parish 16 Sm hn Jo ay B





and 50 feet. Listed here are some of the better known wrecks, highlighted in the map above. Note that some wrecks are known by two, three or even four different names. For further information, visit the scuba diving pages on our website: 34. Madiana 35. Alert 36. San Pedro 37. Caraquet 38. Mark Antonio 39. Montana 40. Lartington 41. Constellation 42. Santa Ana 43. L’Herminie

n The Pelinaion (18) – This Greek steamer became a victim of WWII. The British had blacked out St. David’s lighthouse to stop the Germans from spying on Bermuda. But the ship crashed on the reef, where it still lies scattered. n The Cristobel Colon (32) — This Spanish luxury liner is the biggest of Bermuda’s wrecks at 499ft long. Its remains are spread across the North Shore reef. n The Hermes (9) – Extremely popular among divers as it is one of the few wrecks in Bermuda that remains fully intact. It lies in 80 foot of water off the South Shore. n The Constellation (41) – Jaws author Peter Benchley based his follow-up novel ‘The Deep’ around this wreck, which sank on the South Shore carrying a cargo of morphine and whisky to Venezuela during WWII.

's ith


Fort Popple rwate r Bea ch Turt 19 le Ba y



Shell y HARRINGTON B Beaacy SOUND h Flatts Bridge Devil's Hole


Gate s’ Ba y Town of St. Georges Gates 21 Fort Smith’s 20 Island Fort Cunningham








44. Frenchman 45. Lord Amherst 46. Darlington 47. Mussel 48. San Antonio 49. Blanch King 50. Caesar 51. Airplane 52. North Carolina 53. Triton Ferry

n The H.M.S. Vixen (3) – If you don’t want to take on the challenge of scuba diving, the Vixen lies half submerged in shallow waters off Daniel’s Head, Somerset, and is easily accessible by snorkellers.

Local dive operators Triangle Diving, Grotto Bay, near the airport, Tel: 293-7319 Fantasea Bermuda, Albuoy’s Point, Hamilton, Tel: 236-1300 Blue Water Divers, Robinson’s Marina, Somerset, Tel: 234-1034 & Elbow Beach Hotel 232-2909

Don’t want to get wet? Visit the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute in Hamilton, the National Museum of Bermuda in Dockyard and the replica of the Deliverance in St. George’s. guide 47



Whether you’re a novice or a veteran, our expert fisherman will maximize your chances of scoring a spectacular catch.

You can land a beauty! FOR NOVICE FISHERMEN looking for an exciting family day out or experienced anglers hoping to hook a monster marlin, the deep ocean surrounding Bermuda is a fertile hunting ground. More than 20 charter firms offer day-trippers the chance to try their luck. Two volcanic sea-mounts, Challenger and Argus Banks, several miles offshore, are the focus of
attention for the small fleets of boats that idle out of pretty harbours every morning. Here, the powerful Atlantic currents push baitfish over steepling banks, attracting swarms of big-game fish. Schools of tuna and wahoo offer rich pickings for anglers of all abilities. Other fish often caught on deep sea trips include amberjack, mahi mahi, bonito, little tunny and rainbow runner. Local fishermen know their turf and will guide you to the best spots. Some will let you keep your catch, but they are not obliged to do so. Boats are equipped with rods, tackle, bait, life-saving gear and toilets. Typically you’ll supply your own refreshments. Charter prices for deep-sea outings, usually around $800 for a 48 guide

Many record gamefish are caught here. half-day or $1,000-$1,200 for the day (roughly $200 per person) cover gear, skipper and crew and if fish are biting, a couple of fresh tuna or wahoo steaks. Along with amateurs fishing for fun, our waters also attract big-time anglers hunting the biggest, baddest fish in the ocean – the wild blue marlin. Fierce, acrobatic and sometimes weighing in excess of 1,000lbs, marlin are the toughest fish to land — the Holy Grail for hardcore sports fishermen. Almost all marlin are released. For every fisherman that leaves with his Kodak moment there are more who travel home with nothing but memories and tall stories of the ones that got away. Either way — most leave firmly hooked on Bermuda. n For more on fishing charters visit:


Baxter’s Reef Fishing ‘Life on the ocean wave’ is guaranteed to be great fun with Capt. Baxter aboard his 32–foot Cape Islander ‘Ellen B’. Apply the catch and release method or take your catch home for supper! ‘Ellen B’ is well equipped to accommodate the whole family, complete with ample awning on hot days and complimentary sodas. The captain, with more than 20 years experience on the spectacular Barrier Reef, will display his expertise and show even the ‘amateurs’ how to catch a fish! You may enjoy a half-day or a full-day fishing. Parties of up to ten can be arranged. Capt. Baxter is always happy to oblige smaller parties by joining up with other small groups. Departing daily. Mangrove Bay public dock in Somerset. Tel: 234-2963 or 3349722. guide 49

culture Cultural icons: our Gombeys CHANCES ARE you’ll hear them long before you see them: the snare and bass drums pound a passionate beat. Suddenly, the masked dancers emerge — bursts of colour and peacockfeathered headdresses leaping up the street to a pulsing rhythm and whistles. The Trapper, chiefs, warriors — and Wild Indian with his bow and arrow — dance energetically as the Captain high-steps in his impressive cape. Originally, the Gombeys came from Africa as slaves, many of whom passed through the West Indies on their way to Bermuda. The name is derived from the African gumba, a word for drum, and the earliest reference to Gombeys in Bermuda is in 1829. Each troop is usually comprised of mostly males from one family who pass on the traditional dance techniques. Female family members usually sew the vibrant costumes for their men. We consider the Gombeys an Immortalized in paint: Artist Theresa Airey’s watercolour of Gombeys on Water Street, St George’s. E-mail the artist:

50 guide

important and powerful part of our cultural heritage. n



No hassle: Getting through our small airport terminal is usually a breeze.

Getting to know us HERE’S A LITTLE GUIDANCE on what makes our island tick — a handy list of things you should know. Please note that the information here is subject to change. For the latest, visit our website: The Bermuda Sun newspaper is also a useful resource: n Airlines Air Canada
 Reservations: Tel: 1-888-247-2262.
 Flight Info: Tel: 293-1777.
 American Airlines Tel: 1-800-433-7300. Flight Info: Tel: 293-1420
 British Airways
 Reservations: Tel: 1-800-247-9297.
 Airport customer service: Tel: 293-1944.
 Delta Airlines
 Reservations: Tel: 1-800-221-1212.
 Flight Info: Tel: 1-800-325-1999.
 Tel: 1-800-JETBLUE (538-2583).
 Flight Info: Tel: 293-3608.

United Airlines
 Reservations: Tel: 1-800-231-0856.
 Flight Info: Tel: 293-3092.
 U.S. Airways Reservations: Tel: 1-800-622-1015. WestJet Tel: 1-888-WESTJET (937-8538).

n Airport L.F. Wade International Airport (tel: 2932470) is located in St. George’s at the east end of the island. Allow 30 minutes from the city of Hamilton by taxi. Check-in two hours before departure.

n Banks Normally open from 9am to 4pm, Mon-Fri. There are many ATMs across the island. guide 51


We have ample rainfall but no n Cars No car rentals are available in Bermuda but you can rent scooters and pedal bikes.

n Consulate


Our distinct, pink and blue buses are clean, comfortable — and air conditioned.

ATMs dispense Bermuda dollars, which are tied at par with US dollars.

n Buses All bus routes serving Hamilton arrive and leave the Bus Terminal on Washington Street. (Refer to number 48 on the Hamilton map on page 25. See page 55 for schedule). Cash fares require exact change. Dollar bills are not accepted. Adult cash fare is $3 up to 3 zones, $4.50 for longer journeys. Tokens are $2.50 for 3-zone trips and $4 for longer trips. Transportation passes are available: one-day pass $15, two days $25, three days $35, four days $44, seven days $56 or one month, $55. For children (aged 5-16) cash fare is $2 and passes range from $7.50 per day up to $28 for seven days. Children under five ride free. Transportation tokens, tickets and passes are accepted on buses and ferries and available at the Hamilton Ferry Terminal, Hamilton Bus Terminal and post offices. Tel: 292-3851 •

n Business Hours Stores normally open from 9am to 5pm Monday to Saturday. Many grocery stores open 1-5pm on Sunday and some open Sunday mornings. A law change this year allows grocery stores to sell alcohol on Sundays.

52 guide

The U.S. Consulate is located on Crown Hill, 16 Middle Road, Devonshire, tel: 295-1342. Open Mon to Fri 8am - 4:30pm. Consular services are provided on an appointment basis only. For details, visit the Consulate’s website: or contact For after-hours life or death emergencies for American citizens only, contact the duty officer at (441) 335-3828. • Honorary Consuls for other countries are also represented in Bermuda — see the telephone directory for listings.

n Communications Bermuda’s well-developed telecommunications infrastructure provides modern telephone, fax, Internet, cellular and cellularroaming services.

n Country Code U.S. & Canada — dial 1 plus area code plus no. U.K. — dial 011 plus 44 plus area code plus no. Caribbean — dial 1 plus area code plus seven digits.

n Currency & Credit Cards The Bermuda dollar is equal in value to the US dollar; both are legal tender. Traveller’s cheques and credit cards are accepted at most shops, restaurants and hotels.

n Dress Code The dress code in Bermuda is conservative. Bathing suits and bare chests are not acceptable, except (for men) at beaches and pools. Casual wear is acceptable in restaurants at lunchtime. Some restaurants require men to wear a jacket in the evening. Check the dress requirements when making reservations.

n Emergency Call 911 and specify whether you need police, the fire service or an ambulance.


rivers or lakes n Etiquette

n Hospital

It is customary to greet islanders with a ‘good morning’, ‘good afternoon’ or ‘good evening’ — Bermuda prides herself on civility.

King Edward VII Memorial Hospital (tel. 2362345) is a large, first-rate facility owned and operated by the Bermuda Government and located on Point Finger Road in Paget Parish. An associate of the American Hospital Association. Airlifts can be arranged to the US or Canada.

n Ferries All ferries depart from the terminal on Front Street, Hamilton. Regular ferries
cross Hamilton Harbour. Faster catamarans visit Somerset, Dockyard and, in the summer months, St. George’s. Transportation tickets, tokens and passes valid for buses and ferries are available at the ferry terminal, bus terminal, post offices and hotels. Cash is not accepted on ferries. Scooters are allowed on some routes.

n Health No inoculations are required for Bermuda. There are no poisonous insects or mammals but be wary of the Portuguese manof-war jellyfish that carries a painful sting. Guard against sunstroke and sunburn with hats, sunblock and plenty of water.

n Internet Most hotels and many guest houses provide Internet access. Also, there are a handful of locations where you can go online in the city of Hamilton including the Bermuda Library on Queen Street and the Main Post Office on Parliament Street, where access is free. Public Internet access is also available in St. George’s and Dockyard. Many cafes provide wi-fi access to customers.

n Mail The General Post Office is located at 56 Church Street, Hamilton (tel: 297-7893), with 12 sub-offices islandwide. Airmail leaves and arrives daily. Rates for airmail

GOVER NMENT OF B ER M U DA Minis tr y of Finance Bermuda Post Office

The Bermuda Post Office is pleased to offer “The 60th Anniversary of Queen Elizabeth II’s Coronation”, a series of six stamps. These stamps will be released on 21 February 2013. First Day Cover sets $5.50, cost per set $3.10, FDC souvenir sheet $4.00, souvenir sheet $2.50. Available at the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau.


Queen Elizabeth II’s Coronation

For more information please e-mail guide 53


Topless sunbathing is against the

postcards to North America are 70¢; Europe 80¢; Africa, Asia, Australia and New Zealand 90¢.

Remembrance Day |  Tuesday, November 11
 Christmas Day  |  Thursday, 
December 25
 Boxing Day  |  Friday, December 26

n Nightlife

n Religion

See pages 82 and 94-95

Churches are ubiquitous here. Anglican, Catholic, African Methodist Episcopal and Seventh Day Adventist are among the major faiths. See the church listings in Friday’s Bermuda Sun newspaper.

n Public Holidays 2014 Bermuda Day |  Monday, May 26
 National Heroes’ Day  |  Monday, June 16
 Emancipation Day  (Cup Match, day one) |  Thursday, July 31
 Somers Day (Cup Match, day two) |  Friday, August 1
 Labour Day  |  Monday, September 1

Stay in touch Going on holiday is more fun when you can share it with the ones you love! Send messages, post pictures, and talk to your friends and family back home while you perfect your tan on our pink sand beaches. If you are here for a short trip, roaming is your best option. Choose to roam with the network trusted by over 11 million people in 31 countries: Digicel. If your phone does not automatically connect to the Digicel network, you can set it up manually using your network options in a few short steps. If you are spending more than a few days on our lovely island, you may consider purchasing a local prepaid SIM card to limit your roaming charges. Digicel prepaid SIM cards are available in both Digicel stores in Hamilton (Church Street and Court Street) and in over 100 dealer locations across the island. If you have a BlackBerry device, you may activate a temporary data plan on your Digicel prepaid SIM card. For more information, please visit or call us at +1 441 500 5000.

54 guide

n Scooters You can rent scooters by the day or week, if you are 18 or older. Helmets, provided by the rental companies, are mandatory.

n Smoking Smoking is banned from all enclosed public spaces including restaurants, bars, shops, theatres or any enclosed workspaces.

n Taxis Cabs are safe and comfortable. Rates are controlled by law at $6.40 for the first mile and $2.25 for each additional mile for 1-4 passengers. Rates increase after midnight, Sundays and public holidays with a 25% surcharge for 1-4 passengers and a 50% surcharge for 5-6 passengers. Taxis may also be hired for sightseeing tours at $40 per hour with a minimum of 3 hours.

n Time Differences New York — one hour behind Bermuda

 Los Angeles — four hours behind 

 London — four hours ahead 
 Toronto — one hour behind 
 Daylight Savings Time comes into effect from the second Sunday in March through to the first Sunday in November.

n Tipping In most cases, a service charge or gratuity has been added to the bill. Where the gratuity has not been added, 15% is about right.

n TV/Radio/Media Three main local channels screen a nightly news bulletin —  VSB (channel 11), ZBM (9) 
and ZFB (7). A government station, CITV, is on channel 2 and there’s a small


law here in Bermuda handful of local radio stations. The quality of local programming varies considerably. The Bermuda Sun, which publishes this guide, provides news seven days a week on its website and publishes a newspaper on Wednesdays and Fridays.

n Water Tap water is safe to drink, unless you are instructed otherwise. Bermuda has no rivers, streams or reservoirs; all our water comes from rain or wells. Bermuda roofs are painted with a limestone wash that purifies the water as it trickles down into underground tanks. Electric pumps send the water up to the tap.

n Weather Bermuda’s sub-tropical climate is generally mild and humid, but summer and winter temperatures vary considerably. The average annual temperature is 76ºF. Monthly averages: January 65ºF, water 66ºF; April 67ºF, water 68ºF; July 80ºF, water 81ºF; October 75ºF, water 76ºF. In an average

year we see rain on 171 days and sunshine on 200 days.

n Wildlife One of our most intriguing creatures is the common whistling frog. Their ‘gleep-gleep’ chorus is particularly vigorous after rainfall on warm evenings and you’ll be amazed that a frog little bigger than your thumbnail can be so audible. Easier to spot on wet evenings are enormous cane toads, introduced to control cockroaches. Birds are plentiful; about 375 species have been recorded in Bermuda and 20 are resident. There are hundreds of feral cats and feral chickens – but no feral dogs. We have a few rats, of course, but no snakes. Spiders are abundant but generally harmless. The occasional poisonous spider arrives on imported lumber but they rarely bother people. Mosquitoes aren’t a problem and there are few bugs to worry about. Try to avoid the Portuguese man-o-war, a purple jellyfish that sports long tentacles and causes a painful sting. Sharks are rare in Bermuda waters. n

Bus Schedule

Route Fare Leaving Hamilton’s Central Number Zone Bus Terminal (time past the hour)

Airport Aquarium Belmont Hotel Botanical Gardens Caves (Crystal and Leamington) Dockyard Elbow Beach Gibbs Hill Lighthouse Grotto Bay Hotel Horseshoe Bay Beach Hospital Mangrove Bay (Somerset) National Museum of Bermuda Bermuda Perfumery John Smith’s Bay Beach Fairmont Southampton Resort Town of St. George

1, 3, 10, 11 10 11 8 1, 2, 7 1, 3 7, 8 2, 7 7 1, 3, 10, 11 7 1, 2, 7 7, 8 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11 1 7, 8 1, 3, 10, 11

14 00 3 00 3 00 3 00 14 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 3 00 3 00 14 00 14 00 14 00 3 3 00 14 00

15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 30 15 15 30 15 30

45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 45 guide 55



Dream-like: Soft, late afternoon light on a ‘Bermudaful’ beach — could it be more romantic?

The ultimate overseas wedding BERMUDA IS ONE OF THE MOST ROMANTIC PLACES in the world to tie the knot. With stunning backdrops of pink sand beaches, a turquoise ocean and lush flora and fauna, you can be sure that your big day will be colourful, vibrant and memorable. Hotels offer destination weddings with a difference, and most have packages that include the reception and honeymoon accommodation. If you are passionate about the environ-

ment, the Fairmont Southampton Resort offers Eco-Chic Weddings on a private beach with an organic wedding cake and the chance to plant your own Bermuda Cedar tree. You marry under a moongate

weddings portraits events 300-5005 / 536-9843

56 guide

Our Moon Gates originated in China — a distinctly Bermudian architectural feature — overlooking the waterfront at the Fairmont Hamilton Princess. Alternatively, Cambridge Beaches Resort & Spa offers Magical Sunset Weddings on a private beach. The Reefs Resort & Club has a wooden deck above the spectacular South Shore. Or for something completely different, why not hold your reception among the ancient limestone formations of Grotto Bay Beach & Tennis Club’s caves, in an Exotic Cave Wedding? ‘Bermuda’s celebration yacht’ — the UberVida catamaran — can also provide an exclusive setting amid the aquamarine waters of Paradise Lakes. To make gift-giving easy, one of our leading department stores, A.S. Cooper, offers a bridal registry service and quality, lasting gifts by major brand names (tel: 295-3961 ext 413). The Bermuda National Trust can also provide historic houses and elegant gardens in which to hold your nuptials. Arranging a wedding in Bermuda is easier than you might think. You just need to complete a Notice of Intended Marriage and post this back to the Registrar General, with a $341 fee. The marriage licence will be valid for three months and you just need two witnesses over 18 to attend the service.



Get creative: Our beautiful environment offers wedding day photo opps you won’t easily find elsewhere.

If you need help in organizing the wedding, the island has an abundance of talented consultants, photographers, florists, caterers, jewellers and live entertainers. The Department of Tourism can also offer you a financial incentive. Its ‘So Much More’ rewards programme provides cash rewards for each overseas visitor you bring to the island, for a party of 15 or more. The rewards range from $25-50 per person, depending on numbers. So, if 30 guests attended your wedding you could earn $900 towards your celebrations. For more information go to: www. For more details on getting married in Bermuda, see: specialty-travel/weddings. n guide 57

unique jewellery

Artist draws from nature to BERMUDIAN ARTIST ALEXANDRA MOSHER draws from the island’s natural beauty to create inspired, sculptural jewellery. “I create expressive and original pieces; they’re certainly conversation starters,” she explains. “There is nothing Institute of Technology in more fascinating than New York. She launched taking art as we know her line of jewellery in it and giving it a whole 2005 and since that new context on the body. time has won several I make sculptures to be prestigious awards for worn.” Considering Alexher collections. andra’s background as Her process involves an artist, it is no wonder the ancient technique her intricately sculpted of lost wax casting; she jewellery designs have first hand carves her been influenced by her designs in wax and then studies in fine art. casts them in silver and “I developed a love PHOTOS ABOVE AND FACING PAGE: gold in limited numbers. AMANDA TEMPLE FINE ART PHOTOGRAPHER for craft at a very young “I remember reading an Bermudian artist and pink sand age, and was often art critic’s review of my maven, Alexandra Mosher creating little presents work in 2010 and feeling for my parents out of assembled found like I was on the right path when he said he objects,” she told us. “My family still has was surprised at how I could create such a collection of pretty little things I made original pieces at such an affordable price.” them.” Although her work is highly coveted, she Alexandra studied Studio Art at the has something for every level of collector. College of the Holy Cross in Massachusetts Alexandra is perhaps best known for and later, Jewellery Design at the Fashion her Bermuda Reef Collection in which

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craft pink sand jewellery

she incorporates Bermuda’s famous pink sand into sterling silver and gold to create captivating pieces of wearable art. “‘Is it a gemstone?’ people ask me, and I just love watching their reaction when I explain how I’ve set our beautiful sand into each unique piece.” She told us that visitors often go on to say their daughter, sister or friend would never forgive them if they didn’t bring a little something from her pink sand collection back home as a gift. “It warms my heart to hear that,” she beams.

Finding a little piece of your own is a delightful experience. You can find the lovely pink Alexandra Mosher Studio Jewellery boutique in the Washington Mall at #7 Reid Street in Hamilton or some of her collections at A.S. Cooper & Son’s stores island-wide. If you missed seeing her designs while you were in Bermuda, she has an award winning website from which you can order and ship with ease. Tel: 236-9009. Shop online at n guide 59

shopping TABS — The Authentic Bermuda Shorts NO TRIP TO BERMUDA would be complete without a pair of Bermuda Shorts! The Authentic Bermuda Shorts, a.k.a. TABS, are designed in Bermuda by Rebecca Hanson (pictured). Tailored for a flattering, straight-leg fit, the traditional cut is balanced with bold colours and flamboyant linings. Every colour of TABS is matched to something on the island, from the oleander flower, to the crystal blue water of Paradise Lakes, to the vibrant green of the endemic Palmetto plant.

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Bermuda Shorts are the island's national dress. You will see businessmen wearing them with long socks and a navy blazer, and they are also popular for weddings. TABS are made with 100% cotton to keep you cool, stylish and smart. TABS can take you from the boardroom to the boat, so wear them traditionally, or slip them on with a T-shirt or polo shirt for lazy summer afternoons. Sold online at, and A.S. Cooper Man, 29 Front Street and the Fairmont Southampton Resort.


You’ll enjoy our vibrant retail scene THE NEWS ABOUT SHOPPING in Bermuda is all good. You’ll find both quality and affordability and there are bargains to be had. You’ll find hefty price differentials with the U.S. on jewellery, watches, perfume, silverware, porcelain and crystal. And you’ll enjoy additional relief at the cash register — there’s no sales tax. Many stores are in the City of Hamilton, but the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard, on the western tip of the island, boasts quality gift stores and boutique shops. And the historic town of St George — at the east end of Bermuda — also has a lively shopping scene. Goods made here or produced exclusively for local stores include pottery, jewellery, paintings and prints, pottery, rum, honey, condiments, IMAGE BY GARY FOSTER SKELTON

A stretch of Front Street is under cover, which is handy if you’re shopping on a hot, sunny day.

cedar ware, Bermuda shorts, scarves, fragrances and pillows. Browse the following listings for details. guide 61

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U.S. dollars can be used in Bermuda

Flying Colours Flying Colours, everyone’s favourite one-stop shop for Bermuda T- shirts and souvenirs, has been run by the Riihiluoma family since 1937. The store has reinvented itself many times to adapt to the changing needs of Bermuda and her visitors. “If there are two words that describe the store today they are “Value” and “Fun”, at least that is what we aim for” says Fraser Hunt, 4th generation retailer. “We know that our customers shop around for the best variety and fair prices. We also know that people come back to our store day after day, trip after trip. That makes us feel good. That tells us they are having a good experience in our stores and feel they found good value with us. Very often customers come in wearing shirts that we recognise as having being in our line years ago! They are still wearing them and are back for more!” “The other part of that is fun,” chimes in Jay Riihiluoma, Fraser’s uncle (all in the family!). “Besides just having the basics, we want the shopping experience to be entertaining!” The Riihiluoma family have done a

great job in that regard; there are surprises that will make you smile or laugh out loud around every corner: Bermuda caps for your dog, candoms for your beer, messages in a bottle that you can post in the mail, pirate accessories, coconut bikinis... “You hear people reading the funny T-shirt tag lines to each other all day, every day. It is hilarious and so great to see people engaging with our store in such a fun way.” Located at 5 Queen Street, between the city’s bus and ferry depots. Tel: 295 0890.

The Bermuda Perfumery The Bermuda Perfumery is the internationally-recognized couture perfume house of Bermuda, where Lili Bermuda fine fragrances have been created since 1928. The fragrances are handcrafted at historic Stewart Hall in St. George’s by Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone, Perfumer at the Bermuda Perfumery since 2004. You can catch her in the early hours of the day, perfecting an accord or blending a new creation. Isabelle loves sharing her artistic passion for perfumes with visitors on any


Riihiluoma’s Flying Colours is easy to spot on Queen Street — it’s festooned with flags.

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go shopping

Bermuda Triangle: One of the world’s


For special, unique gifts, head to the Bermuda Perfumery in the heart of St George’s

given day. All Lili Bermuda fragrances – for men and women – represent Bermuda’s unique natural beauty and essence. “Calypso”, the latest Lili Bermuda fragrance, proves the line’s Bermuda authenticity once again. It is a crisp unisex fragrance, which captures the lively rhythms of the Island’s music and lifestyle. Calypso is a fresh blend of sparkling neroli and bergamot. Its heart reveals fruity notes of Bermuda loquats, aromatic notes of the south shore seagrass and white musk. Calypso is part of the “Water Collection”, featuring a collection of fun and easy scents that suit men and women. The Bermuda Perfumery’s critically acclaimed fragrances also include exclusive creations inspired by Bermuda’s beautiful Island botanicals. Modern women will love Coral, Pink, and Lily, and men will not want to leave Bermuda without a bottle of famous fragrances 32° North and 64° West – named after Bermuda’s geographic latitude and longitude points in the Atlantic Ocean.

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By appointment only, Isabelle now offers “The Art of Perfumery Studio Seminar” where her guests will customize their own signature fragrance under her personal guidance. Over a four-hour instruction, guests will learn essential knowledge about perfumery: history of the art of perfumery, extraction processes and applications of essential oils, vocabulary and description of perfumes. All the necessary equipment, such as an apron and scale, will be provided, as well as up to five formula trials for each participant. Sessions will end with the creation of a customized 50 ml fragrance designed to suit each person’s individual personality. The Bermuda Perfumery welcomes visitors for a tour of its operations during its opening hours. Private shopping and tour events can also be facilitated by appointment. Opening Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (spring/summer) and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. (fall/winter). 441.293.0627 or 800.527.8213;;

most heavily-sailed shipping lanes Astwood Dickinson Home of the Original Bermuda Collection 18 kt Gold Jewellery handmade in Bermuda. Since 1904, Astwood Dickinson has built an outstanding reputation as the finest jewellery store in Bermuda. As exclusive agents for the world’s most prestigious jewellery collections and watches, Astwood Dickinson is the perfect place to find a lasting reminder of your Bermuda experience. In our on-site workshop we handcraft the Original Bermuda Collection. Here you will find beautiful 18 kt gold designs of the island’s unique flora, fauna, landmarks and traditions that make an everlasting remembrance of your Bermuda vacation. The Original Bermuda Collection is also available online at . Astwood Dickinson also offers exclusive jewellery collections from Tiffany & Co., Hearts on Fire, Doves Jewellery and Baccarat. Our watch brands include Corum, Michele, Cartier, OMEGA and TAG Heuer. 83-85 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-5805

A.S Cooper A.S. Cooper & Sons, Ltd. has been the choice of discerning shoppers since 1897, offering the very best in Men’s, Ladies and Children’s fashions, Gifts, Fine Jewellery, duty free Fragrances and Cosmetics based at three, prime locations; Hamilton, Fairmont Southampton and Royal Naval Dockyard. Over the years, A.S. Cooper’s has proudly won multiple Best of Bermuda Awards of Excellence due to its outstanding and consistent selection, quality and service. We have six locations to serve the needs of the entire family. The A.S. Cooper flagship store, located in the centre of Hamilton, offers three floors of the island’s best selection of Cosmetics, Fragrances, Fine and Costume Jewellery, Gifts, China, Crystal and Ladies Fashions. Our Cosmetic and Fragrance Department

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on the ground floor includes selections from top name brands such as Estee Lauder, Clinique, Clarins, Origins, NAR’s, Bare Minerals and Lili Bermuda.  Also on the Ground Floor at our jewellery counters you will find offerings from Swatch, Tissot, Alex & Ani, the Original Bermuda Collection and Alexandra Mosher. Our Gift Department, also found on the ground floor, features world-renowned products from Waterford, Wedgwood, Villeroy & Boch, Portmeirion and Swarovski along with a selection of unique gifts. At the Gift Department, any soon-to-be bride can register her gift list to become a Cooper’s Bride. The top two floors offer a vast selection of ladies’ fashions and accessories in all price and size ranges. Our 3rd floor on Reid Street features our designer collections, along with the La Serena Express Spa. 59 Front Street & 26 Reid Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-3961 x407 A.S. Cooper Children, opposite Hamilton Ferry Terminal, caters to a wide range of sizes from infants, newborn, toddler to 7-16 sizes with an emphasis on casual, active and all occasions for both boys and girls. Featured brands include Ralph Lauren, Carters, Guess and OshKosh Bgosh. 27 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295.3961 x213 A.S. Cooper Express, in Washington Mall on Reid Street, sets the trend in fashion and accessories for Juniors, featuring My Michelle, Guess, XOXO, Jessica Simpson and Steve Madden. Washington Mall, 12 Reid Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-3961 x702 A.S. Cooper Man, opposite Hamilton Ferry Terminal, is the island’s largest men’s store, featuring exclusive lines from Polo Ralph Lauren, Brooks Brothers, Vineyard Vines, Lacoste, Perry Ellis and IZOD, as well as other top name brands: Helly Hansen, DKNY and Calvin Klein, all at US prices and with no sales tax. A.S. Cooper Man also offers a fragrance and skincare collection ranging from Hugo Boss, Gucci to Clarins — again, all at duty free prices. 29 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-3961 x201 guide 65

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Hamilton became our capital in 1815


Ah… the sweet scent of Bermuda! The Bermuda Blue & Bermuda Breeze fragrances capture the essence of our island.

A.S Cooper Dockyard in the Clocktower Mall features a selection of merchandise from the A.S. Cooper & Sons Ltd. family of fine stores in Hamilton. It offers a range of ladies’ resort wear fashions as well as accessories and jewellery featuring Alexandra Mosher’s Splash collection. The store also offers an extensive collection of Bermuda-themed gifts, souvenirs, including Picturesque Gallery as well as fragrances at duty-free prices. 1 Canber Road, Dockyard. Tel: 234-4156 A.S. Cooper Fairmont Southampton store is based in the Fairmont Southampton resort, featuring a selection of our best men’s and ladies’ fashions, fragrances and accessory merchandise from the A.S. Cooper & Sons Ltd. family of fine stores in Hamilton. Featured brands include Polo Ralph Lauren, Lili Bermuda fragrances, the Alexandra Mosher jewellery collection and images from the renowned Picturesque Gallery. Fairmont Southampton Resort Southampton. Tel: 238-7094

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The Irish Linen Shop
 Step inside our historic cottage shop and be inspired! Luxury products from all over the world have been an Irish Linen Shop trademark for over 60 years. Our exquisite table linen collection from Le Jacquard Francais, Bodrum, Settings by Mona, and Karen Lee Ballard, along with our amazing selection of table accessories from Deborah Rhodes and Dransfield and Ross, will create an unforgettable table setting. Hand embroidered linen from Madeira and double damask from Ireland are still time-honoured traditions at The Irish Linen Shop.
 Beautiful home fragrances from Antica Farmacista, Dayna Decker, Lafco and the oldest candle maker in France, Cire Trudon, will delight your senses. Don’t stop until you experience our bath and body products from Baudelaire and Rain of South Africa. You deserve it!
 Wait: The world of Michael Aram and Mariposa are the perfect solution when searching for a gift that will delight the recipient for years.
Our home décor selec-

…So much more than juSt LinenS!

Home Décor Fine GiFts LiFe’s Luxuries obviously you have great taste! Celebrating 65 Years of Impeccable Style 31 Front Street, Hamilton HM 11, Bermuda Hours: Monday-Saturday 10:00-6:00 P.M.

Tel: 441-295-4089

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Locally made products are ‘Bermudiana’


At the heart of things: The Irish Linen Shop specializes in luxury good from all over the world and its impressive façade is matched by impeccable customer service.

tions from Zentique, Oomph, and Roost will transform your home and your outlook. 
 You’ll love the children’s boutique at The Irish Linen Shop. It’s the place to find beautiful hand-smocked dresses from Chantal and the classic styles of Papo d’Anjo from Portugal. Later, dream away on the finest Egyptian cotton bedding from Yves Delorme, Sferra, Matouk, Peter Reed and Dans Nos Maisons. It’s all here, waiting for you at The Irish Linen Shop, where fine living begins.
31 Front Street, Hamilton.  Tel:  295-4089; Fax:  295-6552; e-mail:

Bermuda Fragrance Collection Bermuda Blue, Bermuda Breeze & Bermuda Heat fragrances are designed to capture the essence of this beautiful island paradise. Each embraces much that is uniquely Bermuda….reflecting our beautiful ocean, clean air and the aroma of natural fruits & flowers. The latest of our dynamic collection is Bermuda Heat — celebrating the richness of Bermuda days into nights with sweet scents of bergamot, pear, sea lily & sandalwood.

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Bermuda Blue — a fresh citrus, with jasmine, lotus, and a nuance of crisp sea spray. Bermuda Breeze — a fruity floral, hinting of wild berries & mandarin, with a touch of jasmine. Take home a piece of Bermuda. Take home Bermuda Blue, Breeze & HEAT. Available through select stores across the Island and on-line including: Gibbons Company, Reid St., Hamilton The Bermuda Island Shop, St. George Perfume Shop, Dockyard Carole Holding Shops – The Fairmont hotels & Dockyard Brown & Co., Front St., Hamilton www. A.S. Cooper, Front St., Hamilton, branch and hotel stores Distributed by P.D.L. Limited Tel: (441) 292-1710

Bermuda Post Office Every year the Bermuda Philatelic Bureau compiles a collection of commemoratives and arranges them into an attractive presentation package. This collection continues the Bermuda Post Office’s efforts to portray all facets of Bermuda’s heritage, culture and history. The Bermuda Philatelic Bureau also services orders for current issues of Bermuda’s commemorative and definitive stamps and, for the convenience of collectors, provides a standing order account service with a minimum deposit of thirty dollars. In addition, they maintain a mailing list to provide details of new stamp releases to customers. 56 Church Street, Hamilton. Tel: 297-7807

The Island Shop The Island Shop features exclusive and original hand-painted ceramics by Barbara Finsness that capture the colourful archi-

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Our city covers only 80 acres

tectural and natural features of Bermuda. There are fine linens that feature her original embroidered designs and a huge array of different gift items. The Island Shop is a ‘must visit’ during your stay for gift selections found nowhere else in the world! They will gift-wrap or mail your purchases if desired. Check out their online store at Winner of ‘The Best in Bermuda’ in retail giftware by The Bermudian magazine. Barbara features her original and printed artwork in the upper gallery of her Front Street store, and some can also be seen in her Southampton and St. George’s locations. Queen Street, Hamilton, tel: 292-5292. Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-1514 Fairmont Hotel, Southampton, tel: 238-5999

The Little Gallery The Little Gallery is a “Treasure Trove” of magical Bermuda images. Known for twenty years for its cheerful Bermuda prints, the Little Gallery has recently moved into the Spinnakers store at 99 Front Street (near The Beach restaurant). Local artist Diana Higginbotham hung out her shingle in 1994 and called her tiny shop down a Front Street alleyway

the “Little Gallery”. She later collaborated with renowned artist Graham Foster and carried his eclectic prints in the gallery too. The recent move down Front Street to Spinnakers (only a block away!) marks an ease into retirement from retail for Ms. Higginbotham and an exciting new gallery space within the teeshirt and souvenir shop. The Little Gallery is home to the largest collection of Diana’s prints as well as a sizeable collection of Graham Foster’s work. Diana has always done such a great job at capturing the lovely charm and magic of Bermuda in her work. She also learned from years of running the Little Gallery that our visitors and locals alike appreciate her many options of sizes and price points. We have carried Diana’s collection of 8x10 matted prints for years at Flying Colours, so we knew how much our visitors liked to bring them home as souvenirs. “When she asked us to take over the Little Gallery we knew it was a natural collaboration” explains Sarah Fields, buyer for Flying Colours and Spinnakers. It has been a really exciting project to set up the gallery. It is a beautiful, peaceful space that we hope people enjoy. 99 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-0890.


The Island Shop boasts an impressive array of unique, Bermuda-themed gifts.

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Crissons is ‘guarded’ by two bronze lions


Crisson Jewellers’ flagship store is in the heart of Front Street in Hamilton.

Crisson Jewellers As Bermuda’s premier jeweller, the Crisson name stands for quality and value. The fabulous array of jewellery and watches reflect the style, sophistication and taste of our discerning customers. When you explore our exciting collections, we are sure you will agree that a visit to Crisson is the crowning moment of your Bermuda shopping experience. Along with the wonderfully eclectic collection of hand-selected pieces from all parts of the world, Crisson are Bermuda’s exclusive source for famous designers including David Yurman, Roberto Coin, Marco Bicego, John Hardy, Kabana, Nanis, Pandora, Marah Lago Larimar, and Rebecca . As for diamonds of distinction, Crisson has Bermuda’s largest collection of spectacular cuts from Cento, Memoire, A. Jaffe and Endless Diamonds. When it comes to timepieces, Crisson is definitely the place! Crisson are the 
officially authorised Rolex retailers

in Bermuda. You will also find Tag Heuer, Ebel, Raymond Weil, Movado, Tudor, Philip Stein, Christian Dior, Frederique Constant and Fendi. There are also collections from Seiko, Rue du Rhone, Swiss Army, Citizen, Casio, Luminox, Fruitz, Rotary, Guess, Bering, WeWood and Michael Kors. Our main store is on Front Street in Hamilton, with another on Queen Street. There’s also a store in the Clocktower Mall at Dockyard. If you are staying in one of Bermuda’s major Hotels, you’ll find a Crisson store there as well. Each of these boutique-style stores features pieces selected from our main collections in Hamilton. The shopping experience is relaxed and intimate, and the quality, value and prices are the same whichever store you choose to visit. Crisson Jewellers, 55 Front Street & 16 Queen Street, Hamilton; Clocktower Mall, Dockyard, and all major hotels. 
 Tel: 295-2351 • guide 71

island style


Bermuda shorts are de rigueur among the island’s businessmen, among others.

Bermuda shorts: A brief history By SIMON JONES | It’s not everywhere in the world a man can walk down

the street in pink shorts and matching knee-high socks and hold his head high. But in Bermuda, no one bats an eyelid when such colourful dressers wend their way around town. Bermuda shorts are a national uniform. They come in all colours, from salmon pink to sunshine yellow. And they are accompanied by a pair of long socks, called Bermuda hose, pulled up to the knee. Add a navy blazer, a tie and smart shoes and you have standard business attire here in the semi-tropics. Don’t be fooled by the bright colours – Bermuda shorts are serious stuff. We once passed a law that states they should not be shorter than six inches above the knee. 72 guide

Wear tasselled loafers with your shorts. Bermuda shorts trace their origins to the British Army; soldiers sported cutoff trousers to combat the tropical and desert climates they were sent to. They were created at the turn of the 20th century by office workers in London, whose job it was to make sure the forces were suitably attired in farflung corners of the Empire. The look caught on and by the 1950s, most Bermudian men were happy to don a pair of comfortable shorts for work. Although they are Bermuda shorts by name, they are not made here; typically they’re imported from the United States. They make terrific gifts and/or mementos and who knows — you might start a trend in your hometown. The largest selection of Bermuda shorts can be found at the English

what’s on island style

When British soldiers wore shorts on the battlefields of North Africa during WWII, little did they know the look would become fashionable in far off Bermuda.

Sports Shop, which has several branches islandwide. Its flagship store is at 49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672. n

Bermuda’s leading retailer of exclusive, Bermuda-designed resort wear for men, women and children.

49 Front Street, Hamilton, tel: 295-2672 Mangrove Bay, Somerset, tel: 234-0770 Somers Wharf, St. George’s, tel: 297-0142 guide 73

bermuda T-shirts Don’t go home shirtless A SOUVENIR Bermuda T-shirt or sweat shirts in all sizes, styles and colours. They shirt is the easiest way to tell the world stock simple and classy, kitschy and cute; you’ve visited paradise. shirts with Bermuda maps, Whether you’re shoplocal flowers and birds, ping for a loved one, coBermuda cottages and worker or yourself, we’ve even some which proclaim singled out three stores that you’ve survived the that are sure to meet Bermuda Triangle. your needs. A.S. Cooper is a departPHOTO BY NICOLA MUIRHEAD Onion Jack’s Trading ment store with locations Your loved one will look way Post is located in the in Hamilton, St. George’s cool in a shirt from Onion middle of Hamilton’s Front Jack’s Trading Post. and Dockyard, where you’ll Street and Riihiluoma’s find an array of quality Flying Colours is on adjoining Queen Bermuda T-shirts, ranging from simple and Street. classy to colourful and cute. In both stores you’ll find a large array of Have fun shopping! n

10% discount on purchases over $10 on presentation of this ad. Not valid for tobacco products, parking vouchers, phone cards or other specials.

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designed in bermuda Jewellery boutique in old St George’s is a real gem

DAVIDROSE has a growing reputation as one of Bermuda’s most exciting and unique jewellery boutiques. They carry and create an exclusive collection of fine jewellery made from conflict-free diamonds and precious stones, as well as a silver collection, whilst

specializing in bridal and custom pieces. Davidrose is located in the historic, old town of St. George, at Somers Wharf. They boast one of the most unique, luxurious shopping experiences on the island with a spectacular view of the St George’s Harbour. n guide 75

made in bermuda Photographs capture Bermuda’s great beauty PICTURESQUE GALLERY showcases iconic Bermuda images by photographer Roland Skinner. Picturesque Gallery is a source of decorative art, books and gifts — for the home and office, or for creative gift-giving. Bermuda native Roland Skinner has been photographing the island since 1958. His wonderful photographs capture its unique colours and contours. Roland’s work has appeared in magazines, galleries and even on coins. Roland has an unerring eye for beauty, and the dazzling images

collected over the years portray the essence of this beautiful island. His photographs bring to life the everchanging face of the landscape, seashore, architecture and countryside. Every image captures the wonderful quality of Bermuda light. Picturesque Bermuda photographs are also available in two hardcover books, ‘Picturesque Bermuda, I & II.’ ‘Picturesque Bermuda at a Glance’ is a new, compact and affordable soft cover book featuring Roland’s best work to date. n guide 77

made in bermuda My passion is making lovely, affordable jewellery By JENNIFER RODRIGUES | Making jewellery has been a passion of mine for many years. I have a deep admiration for the beauty that the ocean and earth have to offer. Natural gemstones hand-forged into pendants and my Bermuda Pink Sand collection will take your breath away. My work involves wirewrapping, sculpting and the lapidary arts. Having attended the William Holland School of Lapidary

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Arts my work now encompasses silver smithing, hammered cold forging and, when time permits, the cutting, shaping and polishing of beautiful gemstones in either sterling silver or 14KT gold-filled wire. This has become my life’s work and I try to sell my lovely pieces to people at affordable prices. Currently my work can be found at the Bermuda Craft Market in Dockyard and at My-Sereni-Tea on Reid Street in Hamilton. n

made in bermuda Bermuda an inspiration for handcrafted designs By LYNN MORRELL | As an artist, I try to capture the beauty of what delights me. My lovely little island is a constant source of inspiration for my jewellery: Longtails swooping over the south shore, the tiny whistling frog outside my kitchen door, my grandmother’s cottage. I trained in a fine-jewellery workshop

with several master goldsmiths, one of whom is now my husband. I work mainly in sterling silver as I love to wear it myself and the stones I choose are mostly semiprecious and cabochon cut. My jewellery is simple, clean-lined and very easy to wear. It can be found at the Craft Market and The Bermuda Arts Centre, both at Dockyard. n guide 79

made in bermuda Local crafts make charming, unique gifts THE BERMUDA CRAFT MARKET in Dockyard has the largest collection of Bermuda-made crafts and products on the island. As you wander around the historical cooperage building, you will see craftsmen at work. Please stop and chat with them. All items are available for purchase and include Bermuda banana dolls, sterling and 14K gold-filled jewellery,

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pottery, candles, hand-made soaps, sea glass pendants, Bermuda Pink Sand Jewellery and picture frames, handmade Christmas shell ornaments, cedar bowls, jams and jellies, natural handmade bees wax candles, historical nautical maps and note cards, localthemed needlepoint canvases, books written by local authors and lots more. n

made in bermuda Jewellery inspired by our beautiful Beaches JACQUIE LOHAN has been designing and making jewellery since her teens, having studied in Canada and the U.S. She opened Atlantic Jewellery Studio in 1999 and won Best of Bermuda Gold Awards in 2005 and 2008. Her work was even featured on a local postage stamp. Last year, she expanded her business to include designs by her cousin, ZZ Bryant, who assisted in the new “Oceania Collection”. This fabulous collection features handcrafted sterling silver and gold pieces with semi-precious

gemstones in a range of colours and styles, mixed with Bermuda’s sea glass, pink coral and tiny seashells from Bermuda’s beaches. The designers treat the local sea glass and shells as they would gemstones, carefully bezel-setting them in precious metals. Jacquie and her cousin craft both trendy and classic designs; some are bold, others sexy and quite feminine. “There is truly something for everyone”, she says. “Bermuda’s beaches offer me inspiration in a vast array of colours and shapes.”  n guide 81



Where to let your hair down BERMUDA’S NIGHTLIFE is fun and friendly. There’s a good choice of laid-back pubs and upscale bars and some hotels also offer live music and dancing. Most restaurants close well before midnight — but ask a local and they’ll point you to a take-out joint if you need a fried food fix in the early hours.

There is fun to be had out east and west but our guide to some of the best nightspots focuses on the city of Hamilton… In the heart of the city, the Hog Penny is the top spot for live, local bands. Enjoy rock covers by house musician Will Black, who does a good Bon Jovi impression. From 10pm onwards the DJs take over to keep the party pumping. The Pickled Onion on Front Street has live music every night in the summer plus open mic sessions, when everyone can join in the fun. A mixed crowd for the live music gives way to younger, party people after 10pm who take to the dance floor with DJs spinning everything from pop and rock to hip hop and R&B. 82 guide

Classy Port O’ Call, also on Front Street, typically draws more mature business professionals, especially at Happy Hour on Fridays. Food and drinks are moderately priced and service is excellent. Nearby, Café Cairo is another lively spot overlooking the harbour and also on Front Street is Muse, a fine dining restaurant and bistro specializing in French cuisine. It boasts a rooftop skybar overlooking the harbour. Cosmopolitan Nightclub has an outdoor bar and open air space for dancing. It’s high energy, with DJs playing the lastest music to a mature crowd. Also see our pub guide, pages 94 & 95. n






Lunch: Monday - Friday Dinner: 7 days a week 87 Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-5373 Private Dining Room


Lunch: Monday - Friday Dinner: Monday - Saturday Closed: Sundays 87 Front Street, Hamilton (upstairs above Port O Call) Tel: 295-9150 Take Out Available


Lunch: Monday - Friday Dinner: Monday - Saturday Closed: Sundays Chancery Lane, Hamilton Tel: 296-8546


Open: Monday - Saturday, 7:00am - Late Closed: Sundays 10 Dundonald Street, Hamilton Tel: 295-0857 Take Out Available



food & drink

So what’s cooking? Our island is small but it offers an abundance of dining options. Casual dress is acceptable at most restaurants, though some require a Restaurant price ranges per person $ Under $20 $$ $20-$40 $$$ $40-$50 $$$$ Over $50

jacket and tie. And it’s best to make reservations. See our key, left, for a rough guide to prices. Visit for updated information. Chatham House Bermuda’s leading specialty tobacco shop, established in 1895. Offering a marvellous selection of fine tobaccos and gifts for visitors, satisfaction is guaranteed. Our extensive range includes English Briar pipes, and a selection of Havanas such as Punch, Partagas, Romeo y Julieta, Upmann, Montecristo, Cohiba and Bolivar — all at good savings over U.S. prices. Corner of Front and Burnaby Streets, Hamilton. Tel: 292-8422

Port O’ Call Amid the hustle and bustle of front Street, Port O’ Call is an oasis of fine cuisine. This intimate restaurant is one of the most popular spots for lunch or dinner in Bermuda. The innovative award-winning contemporary menu features fresh local fish, homemade pastas and the best Bermuda produce — all at pleasantly modest prices.


Classy Port O’ Call is a great choice for lunch, after-dinner drinks or dinner.

Experience a comfortable, casual atmosphere with professional service whilst you enjoy our signature dishes. Combine with our extensive Wine Spectator award-winning wine list featuring over 40 fabulous wines by guide 85

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Mussel pie includes papaya, potatoes,

the glass, and you are sure to have a meal to remember. Dine inside or on our al fresco harbour view terrace — either way you are sure to love the experience of superb service and a masterful menu in an elegant setting. 87 Front Street, Hamilton, Bermuda. Tel: 295 5373. Lunch and Dinner $$-$$$

Somerset Country Squire Enjoy lunch or dinner at Somerset Country Squire, overlooking Mangrove Bay, in Sandys Parish, while you chat with the locals about Bermuda. Local cuisine includes fish chowder, seafood, locally-caught lobster when in season. Our Sunday Bermuda traditional “codfish and potato breakfast” has all the trimmings, banana, boiled egg with avocado pear (when in season). Whether you’re a party of one or a group, you’ll enjoy our service and food. Serving Monday through Wednesday from 3pm to 10pm, and Thursday through

Sunday from noon to 9pm. 10 Mangrove Bay Rd., Somerset. Tel: 234-0105. Lunch $$ Dinner $$

Bouchée Bouchée is one of Bermuda’s best-kept local secrets! One of the Island’s most popular restaurants, Bouchée offers amazing breakfasts, sumptuous lunches and French-inspired dinners. Bouchée also offers fresh Bermuda fish and fresh Bermuda lobsters are delivered daily in season. Located at the Western end of Front Street, it offers a pleasing and comfortable dining room with excellent service and affordable and tasty food. The wine list is perfectly balanced with something for everyone’s palette, from a sophisticated burgundy to a charming chardonnay and everything in between. Come join us today for a meal - try us for breakfast, lunch or dinner. We look forward to your visit. 75 Pitts Bay Road, Pembroke. Tel: 295-5759. Breakfast $ Lunch $-$$ Dinner $$-$$$

Barracuda Grill
 Le Petit Déjeuner BREAKFAST Daily 7:30am - 2:30pm Le Déjeuner/LUNCH Daily 11:30am - 2:30pm Le Dîner /DINNER

Monday - Saturday 6:00pm- 10:00pm CLOSED SUNDAY EVENINGS

Delicious food and great service a favourite spot for locals and visitors.

75 Pitts Bay Road, Pembroke Tel: 295-5759 86 guide

Barracuda Grill, one of Bermuda’s most celebrated restaurants, is THE place to go for outstanding seafood and chops prepared in a contemporary style, proudly winning over ten Best of Bermuda Awards!
Classically stylish, Barracuda features warm mahogany woods, plush banquettes and a sumptuous but ever so comfortable dining room, suitable for power business meals or romantic tête-à-tête’s. If a little early for your reservation, join the other guests at the cozy, hip and chic bar with its glowing amber-coloured resin-topped side bar, and enjoy cocktails and martinis by our own award winning bartender, or one of more than 16 wines served by the glass.
The Barracuda Grill’s lavish and inviting interior hints at a time of luxurious passenger ships, popping champagne corks, and refined dining, all contemporized to be

bacon, onions, lemon juice and spices. thoroughly of the moment. Irresistible seafood and chops prepared with expertise and passion take centre stage on immaculate linen-covered tables.

5 Burnaby Hill (above the Hog Penny), Hamilton. Tel. 292-1609. email: barracuda@irg. bm, web: 
Lunch $$ Dinner $$$

Hog Penny Restaurant and Pub
 The Hog Penny is Hamilton’s oldest licensed establishment, having been in business since 1957 and interestingly is the original inspiration for the Cheers pub in Boston. Authentic is not a word used lightly at Hog Penny, and our 50-plus year history gives us a delightful patina of age that you just can’t replicate. Over the years our reputation has been hard earned!
Gourmet Magazine, in a December 1987 article, exclaimed “it was love at first sight for us, as well as the throngs who flock here”, and as Gourmet wrote, this great institution is hard

food & drink

to beat for a truly authentic experience.
 Featuring great cuts of beef and fresh Bermuda fish, genuine Indian curries, to-die-for hearty pub style comfort food that has won countless ‘Best of Bermuda’ awards, and having been featured on The Food Network’s ‘$40 A Day’, the Hog Penny continues to be a favourite spot for generations of locals and visitors alike! 

5 Burnaby Hill (Just up from Front Street) Hamilton.
Tel. 292-2534. Email
 Lunch $$, Dinner $$

Pickled Onion Restaurant and Bar
 The Pickled Onion is a contemporary-styled upscale but casual restaurant, with Bermuda’s best bar and ‘see and be seen’ vibe. Our chefs won the prestigious Escoffier Cup at the 2004 Bermuda Culinary Arts Festival, and we have received accolades from Food and Wine magazine, the Continued on page 90 guide 87

food & drink

A Dark ’n’ Stormy is Black Seal Rum

Continued from page 87

Washington Post and most recently Giada’s Weekend Getaways on the Food Network. Our style of food is North American focused, with global influences, and our goal is to be the best value restaurant in Bermuda. Join us at our classy and fun Martini style bar, which is popular with local professionals or those wanting to enjoy a night out on the town. We feature live entertainment seven nights a week in season, and are located right on Front Street overlooking the harbour. We can’t wait to serve you!

53 Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 295-2263. Email pickledonion@irg. bm.
 Lunch $$ Dinner $$

Victoria Grill The Victoria Grill is an upscale-casual restaurant, quick-service café, and cocktail bar, located in the centre of Hamilton, at 29 Victoria Street. Bespoke sophistication and urban chic exude from each of the three distinct segments that make up the whole Victoria Grill experience: Java Jive is a quick-service gourmet café featuring takeaway specialty coffees, fresh-baked goods, unique breakfast items, and lunches to go, served with 2011 Best of Bermuda awarded customer service. Enjoy your cappuccino and Breakfast Sausage,

Cheddar & Egg Muffin, North Rock Chicken Wrap or Tuna Melt Panini on our street-level patio, shaded by large awnings, and watch the hustle and bustle of Victoria Street, Hamilton’s financial and legal district. Rumba°r features a 25-seat onyx stone bar and cocktail tables setting a delightful scene indoors. A covered outdoor lounge and below street courtyard beckon, with low tables and upholstered chairs and banquettes. Retractable roofing can be quickly deployed to cover the courtyard. Rumba°r is a perfect destination for small and large gatherings of friends, associates or business colleagues from 2 to 200. Our full menu includes delicious Kobe beef burgers, fresh crisp salads, steaks and fish entrees, and of course a wide selection of appetizers. Reserve the V.I.P. Room which, with the flick of a switch, is converted from see-through glass to opaque seclusion for that privately staffed business lunch or dinner for up to 12. Victoria Grill.  The perfect place for that important business lunch or power dinner, gatherings of friends, or simply to enjoy an intimate dining experience for two. With a mix of private tables or upholstered booths in the inside dining room, and cushioned wicker armchairs and tables overlooking the below-street courtyard on our outdoor verandah, Victoria Grill is in the very heart of Hamilton surrounded by sleek offices of


The food at Victoria Grill is delicious, nutritious — and beautifully presented.

90 guide

mixed with ginger beer – delicious! International and Local Companies. The feeling is of a classic city bistro, with numerous wines available by the glass,
Victoria Grill can seat 50 guests inside and 50 outside. With lots of street parking, Victoria Grill is open for Lunch on Monday to Friday, and dinner seven nights a week. 29 Victoria Street, Hamilton. Tel. 296-5050. Email Java Jive $, Rumbar $$, Victoria Grill $$-$$$

Portofino For over 35 years we’ve been Bermuda’s favourite Italian restaurant. From a quick, delicious pizza, to homemade pastas and exotic dishes, all will delight in our bustling Italian atmosphere. Prices are right and we offer al fresco dining. Winner of the ‘City of Hamilton Food Festival 2012’ — People’s Choice Award for Best Restaurant. Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence for 2012. Lunch is served weekdays 11:30am to 2pm. Dinner is served 7 days a week from 6pm. Reserva-

what’s on food & drink

tions recommended. Our take-out service is available Monday through Friday from 11am to 10pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 4pm to 10pm. Bermudiana Road, just off Front Street, Hamilton. Tel: 292-2375. Take-out: 296-0606. Lunch $, Dinner $$

Frog & Onion and Dockyard Brewing Co. The Frog & Onion was created and opened in 1992 by a Bermudian (The Onion) and a Frenchman (The Frog). It is an authentic British-style pub with great comfort food and tasty and unique gastro pub-style dishes. The historic building the Frog & Onion is housed in, a cooperage, was completed in 1853 after the war of 1812. The provisioning of wooden ships during the days of sail required that almost all provisions be packaged in barrels or casks so they could be man-handled, loaded and stored in the cargo areas of the ship. Empty water casks needed to be taken ashore in ships’ boats for refilling at the watering place. The guide 91

food & drink

Have you tried conch stew yet?

cooperage space and adjacent Victualling Yard were converted to five storehouses in the 1940s and now finds itself home to The Frog and Onion, and so continues in the victualling business. Dockyard Brewing Co is Bermuda’s only microbrewery, and has the distinction of being the only producer of any type of adult beverage that can put the “Totally Made in Bermuda” stamp on all of its products. Currently featuring 5 different types of beers and ales, Dockyard Brewing is a favourite destination of locals and tourists alike who wish to sample artisanal beverages of exceptional quality. The Cooperage Building, 4 Maritime Lane, Royal Naval Dockyard. Tel: 234-2900. Email frog@ $$

Angelo’s Bistro Angelo’s Bistro is Bermuda’s newest hot-spot and your best morning choice for Lavazza cappuccino & espresso, fresh local fish and Mediterranean specialities,

92 guide

delicious salads, homemade pastas and sandwiches; you’ll savour sophisticated cuisine legere brilliantly presented. The perfect bistro for a late breakfast, lunch or dinner, Monday to Saturday; enjoy a cold beer or a glass of Rosé wine to refresh your afternoon, Al fresco dining on the bistro patio. Takeaway service available. Wi-fi. Located in the heart of the City of Hamilton in the Walker Arcade. 12 Reid Street, Hamilton. Tel: 2321000.
Email: Lunch $ Dinner $$

Café at Masterworks Homer’s Café, at the Masterworks Museum of Bermuda Art, serves baked goods, soups, paninis, and glutenfree products. After you browse the museum’s collection of Bermuda-inspired art, stop in for lunch or a snack. Located in the Botanical Gardens opposite Camden House. Wheelchair-accessible. Tel: 299-4000. Lunch $

the local vibe

You’ll fall for our charms By JAMES BURTON | You might have noticed this already — the easy charm of Bermuda and her people. Even at the airport, people are amiable. Airport staff the world over often act as if you’ve just spat on their name tag but here, even the Customs officers are at pains to welcome you to their land… albeit while making sure they get their tax cut, of course. shopping) and Charm — and count the worldby this I mean the class beaches natural, ebullient along the way. kind rather than Hamilton, the isthe schmaltzy, land’s engine room, marketers’ version is fuelled by vibrant you encounter in some resorts — is Front Street’s lively ubiquitous here. bars and stores. The colourful These are some houses, lush greenof the major landery, lack of stress marks but the real and the endlesslyjoys of Bermuda polite people… the lie elsewhere. overall effect is like Discover a ‘secret’ someone telling beach; cycle the you ‘your hair railway trails; looks good’ or asksaunter around ing ‘have you been Castle Island in working out?’ a boat or simply Embrace it. hire out a scooter Then explore our and beep your friendly little isle. horn at the cheery PHOTO BY WWW.MOONGATE PRODUCTIONS.COM The tranquil old Lazy days and long shadows, here in the locals that make ‘isles of rest’. town of St George The Rock such a oozes history. Out west, take South Road unique place. to Royal Navy Dockyard (for lunch and You’ll be charmed, I promise. n guide 93

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Flanagan’s boasts a terrific, harbourfront terrace. Inside, the cosy décor and pleasant staff help to make it one of our most popular pubs.

You must visit a pub HAMILTON’S FRONT STREET is the centre of our pub scene and the Pickled Onion is a great starting point. With live music, good food and a friendly atmosphere, it’s probably our most popular bar. The Hog Penny, a cozy, oak-panelled bar that inspired the Bull and Finch pub in Cheers, is just a few steps around the corner. Back on Front Street, Flanagan’s, an Irish bar with an American feel, and the Outback sports bar, which screens everything from basketball to cricket, are worth checking out. Nearby, The Beach — self-proclaimed ‘shame of Front Street’ — is a popular late-night spot. It has a good bar menu and closes late; the ‘shame’ bit kicks in if you find yourself still partying in the early hours, having planned a ‘quiet’ night out. 94 guide

Rum swizzle is deceptively strong Bermudiana Road caters to a more sophisticated crowd. Smart shoes, collared shirts and well-padded wallets are required here, where upscale wine bars nestle between swish restaurants. The Robin Hood on Richmond Road is a lively, British-style pub with reasonably priced food and live sports. If you’re streetwise and like to stray off the beaten track, take a wander down Court Street, where you’ll enjoy the atmosphere in bars like the Spinning Wheel, where the DJ keeps the dance floor busy with a mix of classic soul, reggae and soca. The friendly Swizzle Inn, near the airport, is always a good night out and is famous for potent rum swizzle cocktails. Also check out its sister venue, The Swizzle, on the south shore in Warwick. North Rock Brewery on South Road, Smith’s Parish is a good spot to sample locally brewed beers — St. David’s Pale Ale is our favourite. The Frog and Onion in Dockyard will also serve you an authentic, local pint of beer and along with the Bone Fish Bar & Grill, a terrific people-watching spot, it’s your best bet in Dockyard. Out west, the Country Squire in Somerset has a beautiful wooden balcony overlooking Mangrove Bay and is worth a visit, while Henry VIII in Southampton is another popular spot. Wherever you go, don’t drink and ride — leave your rental scooter at the hotel and take a bus, cab or ferry. Cheers! n

If you’re streetwise and like to stray off the beaten track, take a wander down Court Street

food & drink

Flanagan’s is bermuda’s premiere irish pub serving the best of irish and local fare daily for lunch and dinner.

Mon – Fri: 11am – 1am Sat – Sun: 9am – 1am

Bermuda’s only true sports bar!

Rude not to.



Voted best Sports Bar 2011, 2012 & 2013! guide 95


Dine with the locals and enjoy a Sunday tradition


Great location: the pool is close to Griffin’s Bistro Restaurant at the St George’s Club.

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SUNDAYS offer wonderful opportunities for visitors to mix with locals. It’s a day when the memory of the Margaret Rose is reborn within Griffin’s Bistro at the St George’s Club. Friends and loved ones meet there to catch up, laugh, drink — and of course, eat. Join islanders for a truly Bermudian dining experience. The restaurant’s delicious spread of hot and cold dishes are rotated throughout the day. Griffin’s Bistro is open for brunch from 11.30am–5.30pm, reservation recommended but not essential. n

FOR EVERY SPECIAL OCCASION HAMILTON * DOCKYARD * MAJOR HOTELS TEL ( 441) 295 2351 • FAX (441) 292 9153 guide | may 2014

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