Berlin Fashion Week Magazine #28
RAP CITY BERLIN: 4 RAPPERS, 4 LIVES, 4 STYLES / PLASTIC AIN’T FANTASTIC – THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO FREE THE FASHION INDUSTRY FROM TOO MUCH PLASTIC TRASH / SOCIAL DIVERSITY SHAKES THINGS UP IN FASHION
Interview with Michael Müller, the Governing Mayor of Berlin. What significance does Berlin have for Europe?
BERLIN, OUR LOVE .
Berlin is a true European metropolis, a focal point for new ideas and trends that are diffused throughout Europe. Berlin is a start-up capital and an outstanding European location for science. More than any other city, Berlin stands for awakening, freedom, and European unity.
What do you like to do most when you're just in town, as a city dweller? There is a limited amount of leisure time for a G overning Mayor, but when there is time, I enjoy all the interesting things this city has to offer, just as much as everyone else. I am a Berliner after all! I like my neighborhood, walking through the market, but I also enjoy visiting one of the many galleries, or going to a special exhibition at one of our museums, going to sports events, to the theatre. I never get bored. If I weren't participating in the Fashion Week as Governing Mayor, I would still be amongst the visitors. Events like the Fashion Week add to the glamour of the city and inspire beyond the country's borders. Hardly anyone can escape this magnetism.
For a business that is assumed to be as superficial as it gets, I consider myself very lucky to have found an amazing number of people I not only work closely with, but whom I consider friends or even family. The challenges of our times – the global, universal ones, the ones within our economy, and of our market – require that we join forces, to find and conquer common ground. What place would be more appropriate for that than the heart of Europe? Which city is more likely than Berlin, where free hearts explode, creative minds meet, and chaos is somehow part of the structure?
Name three things to take on a trip to Berlin? We are looking forward to a Fashion Week of (ex)change. Let’s use the magic of this place to explore new projects, learn from new generations, and create the future together.
Curiosity, open-mindedness, and energy.
Face-to-face is powerful. Anita Tillmann
PREMIUM EXHIBITIONS GMBH
Lena Brombacher | Chris Danforth
RAP CITY BERLIN
Sonnenstaub – Büro für Gestaltung
Luckenwalder Strasse 4–6 | 10963 Berlin
Renko Heuer | Karolina Landowski
Nura, MC Bogy, Frauenarzt, Sero
Anita Tillmann | Jörg Arntz | Simon Kimble
Kate Lewin | Björn Lüdtke
Styling: Tali Quindio
Sonja Marterner | Peter Großöhme
Kay Alexander Plonka | Quyn Tran
Photographer: Maxime Ballesteros
Location: Sneakersnstuff Berlin
TR ANSL ATION
CIT Y GUIDE
Wagemann Medien GmbH
Francesca Gatenby | Laura Thépot
EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief | Christine Zeine ADVERTISING Advertising Director | Marco Gröning
Camp: Notes on Fashion – an exhibition on the aesthetics of camp What is “camp”? This concept, which first appeared as an entry in the dictionary a century ago, describes the aesthetic of eccentricity, artificiality and hyperbole – in short, the aesthetic of going OTT. The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art (MET) in New York has now de dicated an exhibition to it, entitled “Camp: Notes on Fashion”. The concept is illustrated in detail against a backdrop of the “Notes on Camp” essay written by American publicist Susan Sontag in 1964. In scores of positions – including, of course, Gucci, Versace, Moschino & co. – we are nearing a phenomenon that returns to popularity again and again, especially in times when society is going through a transitional phase. In the world of Instagram, the self-presentation tool par ex cellence, “camp” is now a perfect match once again. And, if you look at the visitors to this year’s Met Gala, the meaning of camp is crystal clear – even if some seem not to have understood the brief that well. “Camp” is still a fine line.
RADAR Slube home – the mini tower home of the future A brand new home and hotel design is taking over the market: the slube home. The cylindrical, mobile space concept constructed from concrete provides a bijoux space to relax in the heart of the city – or wherever it is installed. These ingenious miniature tower homes can mostly be installed without special foundations and can be set up for temporary use or used on a long-term basis – as hotel rooms, micro-apartments, student accommodation, etc. Fitted with a double bed, a washroom including a shower and toilet, a table with a seat, as well as underfloor heating, the slube home can be used all year round. Smart home solutions offer additional comfort. Six metres squared of mobile home with WLAN: not bad!
Ensemble, Bertrand Guyon (French, born 1965) and headpiece by Stephen Jones (British, born 1957) for House of Schiaparelli (French, founded 1927), fall/winter 2018–19 haute couture; Courtesy of Schiaparelli. Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photo © Johnny Dufort, 2019
3D knitting – a new dimension in knitwear
Projekt Glitter – sparkle sustainably
3D knitting machines are heralding a new era for the fashion in dustry. While knitwear is traditionally created by sewing together individual pieces, the Wholegarment® knitting machine from Shima Seiki is able to knit a complete item of clothing as one threedimensional piece. In addition, the Shima Seiki Apparel Design Systems can produce extremely precise 3D simulations of textiles and even finished items of clothing. The virtual animations make the production step of pattern generation superfluous, shortening the production process. Best of all, the 3D simulations even make it possible to have virtual fashion shows.
Tonnes of plastic from the cosmetics industry end up in the sea each year. It’s not just the particles of micro-plastic that make-up and skincare products contain, though; conventional glitter also ultimately ends up in waste water and makes its way into the world's oceans. As a consequence of this, the glitter from Berlin-based brand Projekt Glitter is 100% biodegradable. Shortly after launching its “Pure Collection” the company, which was set up in 2016, made a complete shift to 100% biodegradable products. Projekt Glitter’s collection is produced from a special biodegradable film made from plant cellulose. The raw ingredients are ethically sourced, the glitter is certified compostable, biodegradable in sea water and complies with both EC and FDA cosmetic regulations. Big, sparkling like!
Ami One Concept – a new vision of urban mobility
PlasticRoad – road surfaces constructed from plastic waste An innovative suggestion for using plastic in a sensible way comes from the Netherlands, the bike nation personified: cycle paths constructed from plastic waste. The PlasticRoad concept is currently being piloted and the first two plastic-surfaced cycle paths have opened for use. The paths are not only sustainable but smart, too: they use sensors to relay information about the temperature of the road, the number of cyclists and the service life. Further cycle paths are in plan, as well as the use of synthetic surfaces for car parks, pavements and at bus stops. Whole roads could also be constructed from prefabricated plastic modules, but further research and empirical evidence is required first. Because: famously, every journey be gins with the first step.
#LibertyElectricityMobility – freedom to move around for everyone, 100% electric: with the Ami One Concept Citroën has developed an emissions-free alternative to public transport and rethought the alternatives to two-wheeled transport that offers space for two people and – at least in Europe – that can be driven by anyone over 16 in possession of an AM category driving licence. The innovative city vehicle is just over 2.50 metres long, 1.50 metres wide and equally as tall. Citroën is consciously not addressing the idea of a car in the usual sense, but rather seeing it as a mobility mechanism. The concept car is perfect for car sharing and similar travel needs. Up to now this has all been purely a vision of the future, however we sincerely hope that we will soon be able to make this little magic cube a reality via app! And who knows: perhaps one day the Ami One Concept will be as famous as the “tin croissant”, aka the Citroën 2CV.
RAP CITY BERLIN by JAN WEHN Photos by MAXIME BALLESTEROS
German rap is the new pop. If that seems unbelievable, just take a look at the Singles Chart: five, six, sometimes even seven songs can be assigned to the local hip-hop genre every week. German rap breaks sales records, dictates trends in streetwear, and influences the language in the schoolyard. Urban and rap culture has finally made it to the centre of society, in 2019, so it's only logical that it would get its own prize. On 10 July 2019, the first HYPE Award will take place in Berlin – organized by DOJO advertising agency and Streetlife International, and sponsored by Sido. "When Nader [Korayeim] asked us if we wanted to co-organize the award, looked us in the eyes, and blew shisha smoke in in our faces, we knew what to do," says Dominic Czaja co-founder of DOJO. "We, too, were brought up by hip-hop and have been aware of the flaw in the German music industry for far too long. At
some point, we were determined – no matter what – to break standards: advertising, doner kebabs, and now flamboyant music awards. In addition to all that, my business partner, Joachim Bosse, still hopes that his rap career stands a chance."
of live acts and a roaring after-show party. It is still unclear who will win (all) the awards in all 20 categories, but it's clear that the nominees and their sound couldn't be more varied. The best examples are the four artists presented in this issue's cover story.
"Berlin is the capital. Berlin is the scene. Here, street meets glamour – it's the perfect place for the HYPE Awards", says Nader Korayeim, CEO and co-founder of Streetlife International, as he explains the choice of location. "Hip-hop has never had an award show of this magnitude in this country before. Time to change that! We want to honor the artists for their work, give them a stage, and celebrate together with the fans", says Nader Korayeim.
There's Nura, who started as part of the SXTN duo and recently proved why she's so invaluable for the scene, with her solo debut album "Habibi". Nura has no interest in her colleagues' machismo and isn't afraid of telling it like it is – nor getting involved. Her music is still up in the charts and she remains a solo and permanent feature of playlists. Similarly, Sero's status has changed from being just an insider tip to being a real artist, who combines clear statements and an artistic concept into his music.
The awards will be presented at the beginning of July 2019, with a jury of journalists and experts, during a two-and-ahalf-hour show, in the Verti Music Hall. There will be lots
Both were influenced by the previous generation. Frauenarzt – the answer's in the question – has always
stood for the German capital's unfiltered and explicit rap. He created an important structure for the Berlin scene at the end of the 90s, thanks to his labels and tape productions. And always at his side: MC Bogy, who in his youth started out as a graffiti artist, and then as a rapper, but who now is also the host of the legendary new edition of "Yo! MTV Raps". These four personalities have not only shaped German rap, but society as well – fashion, music, language – and show that rap in 2019 is far more than just a trend. "German rap is not a trend, German rap sets trends," says Dominic Czaja. "With the HYPE Award, we don't just want to celebrate within the hip-hop scene, we want to give everyone the opportunity to be part of something bigger: actors, sportsmen, politicians – everyone listens to rap. Brands once again identify with this culture. All are welcome to step into the Cypher with us. This is bigger than hip-hop."
NURA Singer instagram.com/nura 397k followers
What did you want to be when you were a kid? A singer! I'd actually write that in every single friendship book I was asked to fill out.
Why a singer of all things? I saw Aaliyah on MTV and immediately fell in love. She was super feminine, but still wore baggy pants, and somehow managed to remain neutral – and then her voice of course! I wanted to be just like her and immediately started saving money, and forced my mother to buy me a pair of Dickies Loose Fit pants and a white tank top; that's still pretty much my style today.
You and your family fled Kuwait when you were three years old. Do you remember that? Not really. My first memory is when we moved from the refugee home to Wuppertal to live with my grandparents. I lived in a small 3-room apartment with my mother, my three siblings, my grandparents, and two of my uncles. The floor of one of the rooms was completely covered with mattresses. That's where we all slept, but of course where we also played and rolled around, because you couldn't get hurt there. We didn't have any privacy – but didn't feel the need for it either. When I was a kid, I thought it was totally cool to live with my family in a very small space and didn't even notice that we were poor. Today I have a huge couch and hate sitting on it alone. That's why I always have an open house day, where my friends just come over and we all hang out together.
You grew up in Wuppertal, but you came to Berlin at the age of 18. What did the city offer you? Freedom.
Where do you hang out in Berlin? I don't really hang outside anymore, but prefer to chill with friends at home on the sofa. When I go out to party, it's for the music – and that's at the Sisyphos, the Kater, or Berghain. Of course it's cliché, but I really like those places. There are no cameras, nobody is allowed to take pictures, which makes it very pleasant.
Do you have a hidden talent? Braiding hair. For a long time I made money by braiding. Right now, I just don't have time for it, but when I don't feel like making music anymore, I'll just open a shop and braid my fans' hair!
Are you a rapper or a singer? I am a singer. I don't want to have anything to do with r appers anymore. Rappers always think so strategically and always need to show off. That's not my thing, I just do everything by feeling. If that means being put in a box with Helene Fischer, I don't give a shit.
What would you wish for, regarding the rap scene? As a woman and as a foreigner, I would wish for much more cohesion. I learned, from an early age, that you stick t ogether. Success makes everyone forget who they are, where they're from. I used to be a rap fan because rap made a difference. "Adriano" by the Brothers Keepers meant so much to me and spoke from the soul. Listening to that song used to make me feel strong, but today they just post a hashtag against the AfD (Alternative for Germany, the right-winged political party) and that's it.
In a questionnaire you were asked what you would like to be for one day, and you answered: white. Why's that? Because it would simply be badass to experience a day without racism. But also just one day. I know that I was born to be black. Someone else wouldn't have been able to endure all this.
Do you actually see yourself as a role model? Not necessarily musically, but definitely humanely. I always say to my fans: be a good person, be proper to others, don't discriminate, and don't take just any old shit – quite simple.
MC BOGY Rapper & Moderator instagram.com/mcbogy46 40k followers
What does a day in the life of MC Bogy look like? I need eight hours of sleep, after that I take it out on the punching bag or the dumbbells. It's like therapy for me. Afterwards I make phone calls at my desk, then I go to interviews, and then it's already evening. I'm glad when Kool G Rap is on and a joint is blazing. (laughter) My music of course suffers from this daily routine, but I can't complain. I still have enough time to see my son and my foster-daughter.
You're no longer just a rapper, but also an interviewer and moderator for some time now. How did that happen? The journalist Davud from TV Strassensound interviewed me and we immediately got along. A promoter friend of mine got the idea that I could interview Frauenarzt about the release of his new album. It was only meant as a joke, but it was so well received that this project now has over 200 interviews. That's how I got the job as the moderator of "Yo! MTV Raps" – a real accolade for me. I just started my own podcast – a dream come true for me. I also got a part in a new Netflix series and whenever I find time, I work with my good friend B-Lash on a new album. I am very grateful for how my life has developed lately.
What role did your father play in your musical socialization? My father had the best stereo on the block and regularly let people copy their music from it. The only condition was that they leave me a copy too. That's how I had access to the good stuff early on. We'd drive through town in his Ford Granada and listen to tapes with songs from Ice-T or Tone Lōc. When I later did graffiti, my father would sometimes keep watch and he even painted with me at the train station once.
Where do you live today? I've lived at Kameradenweg 5, in Lankwitz since the late 90s. Everyone knows where to find me, many just come on over. You have to imagine it like a clubhouse. I have an old lease, great neighbors, and can listen to loud music. In summer, I like to set the couch in front of the house and smoke a bong. That's all I really need to be happy.
Where else can one find you in the city? I always say: West Berlin is my living room, but you can also find me on the Eastside. I'm always hanging where the cool guys are.
Where do you get tattooed? Was there another time in your life? Man, I went through hell! For 15 years, I was mentally ill and put in the forensic ward. I was in there with the worst people imaginable. When I say that I've seen everything, I really mean it. When you've made your living on the street, like me, you're grateful for hip-hop and the opportunities a culture like that has to offer. In hip-hop, it doesn't matter where you come from – it's about what you do. When I lost my mind, my money, and my freedom, hip-hop was still there for me.
At Bloody Colors, by my friend Kary. He's really good.
How has Berlin changed since the 80s? So much already. In some places they've built luxury houses, in others there is still child poverty. That of course changes a city. In the past, nobody had a problem with a chick wearing a headscarf and an other with her tits on display. I think I had it easier in the 80s, with my BMX, than my son has it now. I love Berlin, but Berlin is just an other city on planet Earth, and in the end it only represents society.
FRAUENARZT Rapper, Producer, and Label Manager instagram.com/frauenarzt 50.6k followers
How did Berlin shape you? Early on, I learned to stand on my own two feet and fight my way through. As a teenager in the 90s, you really had to be your own man. I'm not just talking about violence. If you weren't born with everything, you had to prove yourself. But the city also shaped me beyond that: the streetscape, the smells – like those of the S-Bahn tracks –, the flea markets on sandy floors, amidst swirls of air. You really have to experience Berlin to know what it feels like.
Do you remember the first time you saw graffiti? It was a day at my primary school. A beautiful lettering that just looked awesome. A little later, graffiti was really everywhere and Berlin even became the graffiti capital of the world, for a while. The city was full of graffiti and every train was sprayed from front to back – every single one. In the 90s, Berlin also stylistically followed in the footsteps of New York graffiti, and raised the whole thing to a new level.
You were a graffiti artist yourself, but at some point you also started rapping. What triggered that? I was very enthusiastic about music at an early age and wanted to try it out for myself. So I started experimenting when I was 11. Many people say that they only started rapping to impress the girls or to earn money. But I was really interested in the whole package. I wanted to release a record with music I produced myself, to which I would also scratch and rap. A real self-made thing.
Why did you start producing and selling your own tapes? Of course we also would have liked to make CDs or records. But recording and duplicating tapes was simply the cheapest and most effective way to spread our music at the time. Those who already had a driving license, from our circle of friends, could then pump our music in their cars and spread it throughout the city. We'd often drive to the clubs and sell tapes from the trunk.
In over 20 years you have founded various labels, most recently Proletik. How has the business changed over time? The structures of the music industry have changed drastically, but today it's very similar to the times when we sold tapes. Now, as an artist, you can upload your album to streaming platforms for 40 euros and get 100 percent of the revenue. If you promote it well, you can quickly establish yourself in the music business. That's exactly how it was back then.
You are a passionate collector of tapes, CDs, and records. Where does the collecting obsession come from? My father already had a significant record collection – there was everything from Krautrock to Psychedelic. However, my passion for collecting only grew when I became interested not only in individual artists, but also in certain labels. You couldn't browse the internet yet, but I simply knew that labels, like Rap-A-Lot, stood for a certain quality – so I'd buy everything they had.
Your greatest rarity? If choosing between emotional and financial values, I would have to go for the latter. My first album "B.C.", from 1999, certainly has the greatest emotional value: on tape, a stamp print, the first edition produced 50 copies. I would never sell that.
Where's the best pizza in Berlin? I only eat Margherita pizza and like the one from Il C asolare in Kreuzberg. There's also a little place in Tempelhof where I like to go, but I'm keeping that one to myself.
SERO Rapper instagram.com/sero__baby 8.9k follower How do you work on your music? I basically don't write down any lyrics. I just turn on the beat and immediately start rapping in my head until everything fits. Then I meet with my producer and we record – usually three songs a day.
So working on a song for a long time is not a sign of quality? If sometimes you don't think everything through down to the last detail, but just carve it out gradually, then it might bring out things that are actually hidden in the subconscious. There's almost something impressionistic about that.
You once said: "Art is a mixture of creation and destruction". What exactly do you mean by that? I think that it's in the act of creation that we humans are closest to God and more than just ourselves – it's the same for destruction. For me, this is the basic concept of art. It may sound strange, but self-destruction is also a form of art. I read the book "Panikherz" (“Panic Heart”) by Benjamin von StuckradBarre, in which he talks about his addiction to alcohol and cocaine, and I caught myself thinking how his way of destroying himself is almost poetic.
Do you have a tendency to do so yourself? Of course, every day. My song "Erdbeeren" (“Strawberries”) was a brutal act of destruction. How can you release a song like "Erdbeeren" after such a powerful and dark album like "One And Only"? My label said I was crazy, but I couldn't help it. I was sitting at the kitchen table, eating s trawberries, my fingers were sticky, and I had this line in my head that was like: “Meine Finger werden juicy” ("My fingers will be juicy").
In German rap today, it's more about the vibe and less about the statement. You used to rap more, today you're singing more and more. Why is that?
Above all, music is made to be listened to – and strong melodies and nice rhythms sell well. Rap used to be more of a ghetto thing and originally wanted to be very different from mainstream music, because nobody wanted rappers there. So you wanted to be as different as possible. Today, rap holds a completely different position – and because anyone can sing with Auto Tune, it's just happening more and more. You can make a lot of money with that. I have absolutely nothing against it. I think it's good that German rap sounds better now. Not every song has to have some deep meaning. Sometimes a song just sounds good and that's fine. I understand that there's a mainstream aspect that has developed there. I often do it too, because the vibe is important to me – but that's exactly why I still like classic Spitter-Rap.
You studied directing, psychology, and economics, and ultimately focused on music. Was that the right decision for you? Some days yes, some others, no. Nobody can guarantee that you'll make good money as an artist. But money is important to me. I come from a rather poor background. When it rains, water drips through our ceiling, because we live in a dump. But music doesn't guarantee that I will make money either. For now, things are going well, but who knows what it will look like in a few years. If I had become an industrial engineer, I probably would have earned a ton of fucking money, but I wouldn't be able to forgive myself if I hadn't tried rapping.
What can you buy with money? A lot! Beautiful golden teeth, heavy chains, you can also go on vacation. I haven't been on vacation for way too long, but I don't like spending money as much as I do having it. I just want to fall asleep at night, knowing that I can help my parents if they get a shitty letter or if my father looses his job. Money gives you peace of mind.
Fashion Week driven by Mercedes-Benz.
TAKE ME WITH YOU! BERLIN FASHION WEEK GUIDE #28
ON A TOUR AROUND BERLIN TO NEW STORES, RELAXING SPAS, GREAT RESTAURANTS, HOT BARS AND EXCITING CLUBS.
AMERICAN DREAM BRANDS by CHRIS DANFORTH
FASHION Heritage. Authenticity. Originality. None of these three things can be bought, and few brands are as steeped in them as Alpha Industries and Champion. Both names are products of prolific periods of local American manufacturing, and both have left a major impact on the clothing and overall identity of what we call Americana, before going on to become style icons in their own respective rights.
Alpha Industries and Champion are celebrating their 60th and 100th respective birthdays this year, and we spoke to both former pillars of the American manufacturing industry about how they pivoted from classic utilitarian designs to become established as institutions of fashion. In 1919 in Rochester, New York, Champion was initially established as the Knickerbocker Knitting Company, and got its start outfitting college sports teams, beginning with the Michigan Wolverines football team. Word travelled, and soon the brand was providing uniforms for many other collegiate teams. Over the following decades the company was re- titled Champion Knitting Mills Inc., and delivered such innovations as proprietary reverse weave and mesh fabrics, which have been imitated by innumerable competitor brands. Plus, after athletes and labourers called for a garment that offered better protection from the elements, Champion gave us a hooded sweatshirt, now affectionately referred to as the hoodie. In fact, the iconic reverse weave hoodie was permanently installed in the Museum of Modern Art in New York City in 2018.
roducts are widely stocked by Tokyo’s many p vintage stores, and retail franchises like BEAMS and United Arrows. The brand’s instantly recognisable “C” logo has become a globally celebrated icon in its own right. While Champion has gained a newfound relevance in contemporary fashion and streetwear, Monahan reminds us that the brand’s heritage still informs every step that is made today, “Our brand has always celebrated our heritage – it’s the core of what our company is founded on. We’re able to select key pieces that were integral to our foundation and make them relevant and trend-appropriate for the market today.” Fast-forward 40 years from 1919 and you’ll arrive in 1959, the same year that Alpha Industries was established in Knoxville, Tennessee. Although the brand was made official on paper in 1959, when it was awarded a U.S. military contract, Alpha was actually created from a conglomerate of three manufacturing companies – Superior Tags Corporation, Rolen Sportswear and Dobbs Industries. Alpha’s iconic M-65 and MA-1 jackets are designed objects that were simply done right the
While Champion never sought to become relevant in subcultures like graffiti or b-boying, the brand was eventually adopted by different audiences, much like the trajectory of Polo Ralph Lauren, Timberland or Dickies, all of which were embraced by new audiences like those in the skateboarding and hip-hop communities. Champion’s reputation for hard-wearing materials and its achievements in sportswear, like equipping the 1992 U.S.A. Olympic Men’s Basketball team, (the “Dream Team”, featuring Michael Jordan, Magic Johnson, Patrick Ewing and other legends), established the brand as not just a manufacturer, but a cultural institution. Moving closer to the present day, Champion CEO Joseph Monahan points out to us that “collaborations, limited-edition pieces and customization” have become integral parts of the brand’s business, like partnerships with Supreme and Vetements, or, more recently, Ronnie Fieg’s Kith. In Japan, the aforementioned reverse weave fabric is a beloved chapter of Champion’s history, and reverse weave
Alpha jackets became symbols of American patriotism, as well as presidents like George W. Bush and Bill Clinton, and celebrities from Marilyn Monroe to Kanye West and the musicians named above. During the 1990s, Alpha broadened its product offerings significantly to appease this new civilian consumer. Parallel with the trajectory of Champion, Alpha Industries’ CEO Mike Cirker notes in an Alpha promotional video, “My goal, or my vision was to make this into a fashion company. So we could take that history and that authenticity and turn it into something that was fashionable and relevant.” Today, Alpha keeps a well-maintained archive of historically relevant pieces that can continue to inform contemporary designs, as Birkl and Pantoja note, "We continuously archive hundreds of archives in our warehouse in Knoxville, Tennessee, which was our original factory when we started; and we have an online database to reference these styles when we need them. We are always searching for rare styles to add to the archives."
first time, and for pilots, these were the ultimate status symbols. One’s Alpha jacket was directly tied to one’s identity, as pilots would proudly display their combat history on their jackets in the form of mission patches and badges. But how exactly did a military jacket make its way into the closets of civilians? One theory is that, when the Vietnam War ended, some of the 500,000 jackets being produced annually by Alpha for the military were finding their way into military surplus stores. As they already had a reputation made by those who wore them during the war, they were soon in demand for their made-in-USA quality. This transition from military uniform to fashion staple could also be tied to several particular countercultural moments, as Ben Birkl and Matthew Pantoja from Alpha Industries explain, “Through the years, we’ve seen military garments being adopted by fashion and culture. There was the “hippie” movement in the 70s, where people protesting against the war would wear the M-65 and utilise it as a canvas for anti-war/peace messages. There was Robert De Niro’s character wearing the field coat in “Taxi Driver”; Arnold Schwarzenegger wearing it in “The Terminator”. It was also the uniform of hip-hop during the era of the late 80s and early 90s, with Public Enemy, Wu-Tang Clan, Mobb Deep, Nas and Notorious B.I.G. all wearing the M-65."
Alpha and Champion are now both exploring new demographics that have taken an interest in the brands, to complement the loyal followers that they have developed over the decades. As the brands pivot to adapt to changing trends and markets, the success of these American staples is built on authenticity and originality, two things that cannot be bought or faked.
© Achim Hatzius
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# FA S H I O N T E C H B E R L I N
BRANDS ELLESSE six decades
of the coolest Italian sportswear
The Italian sportswear and lifestyle brand Ellesse is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year. Tailor Leonardo Servadio founded the brand in Perugia in 1959. His initials, L.S., (pronounced “elle” and “esse” in Italian) formed the basis of the brand name, which today is world-renowned. In the 70s the brand was very successful with its ski clothing. Servadio brought stylish ski jackets to market, along with the legendary Jet Pant, ski trousers with padded knees and added punch. In the 80s, too, Ellesse delved deep into the sportswear segment. In 1985, the then 17 year old Boris Becker won his first Grand Slam title at Wimbledon while sporting the iconic Ellesse logo on his chest – two ski tips in the shape of a tennis ball. Ellesse has also been active in streetwear since the turn of the century. The Heritage Collection, launched in 2010, was custommade for a fashion-conscious target demographic. Logo mania, the athleisure trend and, additionally, the revival of retro sports labels from the 80s and 90s like Fila, Kappa, etc. all contributed towards the brand's comeback. Today, thanks to clever marketing strategies Ellesse is omnipresent on social media and is constantly attracting attention. The brand’s Spring/Summer 2019 campaign introduced the world’s first AI supermodel – Shudu. New developments have been announced for 2020: “Spring/Summer 2020 marks a new chapter for Ellesse. Collections that are about attitude, not age. A celebration of the colourful flair and track-ready tailoring of our heritage, re-energised with innovative fabrics, street-ready silhouettes and bold new takes on our iconic logo,” states the company's website. We’re on tenterhooks!
JET SET 50th anniversary & the return of Blue System New creative director, new logo, new look. Who, if not Michael Michalsky, could do a better job of lifting a brand focused on sportswear from its place in obscurity? Since the mid-90s, performance- inspired luxury brand Jet Set, which was once the darling of the cool set in the elite skiing realms of this world, had been more or less stagnating. In 2019 the brand won’t just be celebrating its 50th anniversary; it has also had a makeover and expanded its range with futuristic sportswear. Inspired by the brand’s archives, Michalsky has interpreted Jet Set classics into the language of today's aesthetics. He plays with textures, patterns (including leopard prints), silhouettes and layers, and has succeeded in bringing the modern vision of the brand closer to those who loved it years ago. At the same time, he also manages to address a new generation that wasn't even born then. In short, it’s new era luxury. M ichalsky achieves this thanks to the very unique attitude and nonchalance he’s known for in the world of fashion. He proved this while working as Global Creative Director at Adidas, as well as in his role of Creative Director at MCM. Get louder! But it gets even louder: Spring/Summer 2020 sees the return of another hero: Blue System, the Jet Set denim range! As an integral part of the Jet Set collection, it will enrich the line with denim in innovative finishes and fits – made in Italy.
IRIEDAILY stay different Iriedaily is celebrating its 25th birthday this year – happy birthday! That’s not all there is to celebrate though: with its Spring/Summer 2020 collection the Berlin-based streetwear label is switching the focus in the direction of change. Alongside trends like Summer Nomad, Mid 90s and Sport & Street, the new collection will premiere its Sustainable range. In addition to the fairness principle, which is manifested by membership of the Fair Wear Foundation (FWF) among other things, the brand has also
carried out extensive prep work into incorporating the concept of sustainability within the collection. A large proportion of the t-shirt range has been manufactured from organic cotton, while recycled polyester has been used for the first time to create the jackets. This is just the beginning, as Iriedaily still has big plans. Be part of the change!
VAN LAACK a master for the Masterpiece collection For its Masterpiece range, traditional fashion house van Laack have brought on board no lesser a designer than Wolfgang Joop. The van Laack designers have developed a capsule collection in collaboration with Joop’s experienced team. Wolfgang Joop's priority was to stage the Masterpiece range not just as s pecialist, but as a look. Expressive designs, Joop’s unerring but always daring choice of fabrics, a laid-back, elegant style aesthetic and, not least, his iconic illustrations all have a hand in his timeless and extra vagant signature style. The fashion expert will also advise van Laack in the capacity of Creative Director. The strategy: cosmopolitan glamour, relaxed elegance and a rich well of emotions for the traditional fashion house founded in Berlin in 1881.
PERRY ELLIS AMERICA heritage goes future Perry Ellis founded his eponymous label in 1976 and revolutionised American leisurewear with his innovative designs, which provided a modern interpretation of well-worn classics. The classic, sporty look became the brand’s signature. Ellis played with patterns, proportions and details. His single cable knit jumper and shirts with pleated sleeves are unforgettable threads in the tapestry of fashion history. 1984 saw the partnership with Levi's to create the Perry Ellis America capsule collection. It combines the iconic Perry Ellis style with today’s youth culture. To create it, the design team reverts time and again to the brand’s extensive archive and reinterprets heritage styles. Appliqued elements and branding continue to be essential aspects of the designs that, then as now, have a large fan base around the world.
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ARMEDANGELS eco & fair They come in peace. The company's story begins in 2007: two business studies students plan to print t-shirts and use the profits to support charity projects. 12 years on and Armedangels has become a company that is among the largest eco & fair fashion labels in Europe. The principles of the company's founder, Martin Höfeler, are his weapons in the fight against profit and environmental pollution: no wage slavery, no chemical madness, no cheap mass- produced goods. Instead, fair working conditions are paired with sustainable, high-quality materials and beautiful designs. With four collections a year the team, which is now 90 strong, has proven that sustainability and good product design are not mutually exclusive. The Spring/Summer 2020 collection is dominated by an optimistic future and closeness to nature. We can look forward to new printing techniques and a play on natural colours.
LIU JO first step towards sustainability Since its founding in 1995, Italian brand Liu Jo from Carpi has evolved in the blink of an eye to become a successful international brand o perating in the premium segment, and has launched campaigns featuring top models like Kate Moss, Karlie Kloss and Anna Ewers. Denim in particular, used to create the perfectly fitting designs and washes, is an intrinsic part of the brand's DNA. Now, Liu Jo has taken the first step towards sustainability with the “Better Denim” capsule collection. In collaboration with Candiani, an expert in sustainable production, special fabrics and dyeing techniques were selected in order to drastically reduce the use of water and chemicals during the production process. Even the labels and packaging for the capsule collection have been created with sustainability in mind. Liu Jo’s “Better Denim” collection will arrive in store this autumn, and the collection is being developed further for Spring/Summer 2020. It’s a big green thumbs-up!
1–6 JULY 1–6 2019 JULY 1–6 2019 JULY
ON A QUEST FOR INNOVATION Dirk Schönberger, Global Creative Director MCM
by NICOLE URBSCHAT
© Achim Hatzius
Widely regarded as one of Germany’s most important designers, Dirk Schönberger first leapt to fame in the '90s with a series of signature men’s collections noted for their sharp and edgy tailoring. After designing for Joop! and spending more than eight years as Creative Director for German sportswear giant Adidas, Schönberger has recently been named new Global Creative Officer of MCM. The '80s cult brand became popular for its flashy logo leather goods. After being acquired by the South Korean businesswoman Sung-Joo Kim in 2005, MCM is now a leader when it comes to speaking to the new luxury consumers. With Schönberger's innate knowledge of pop, youth and street culture, owner Sung-Joo Kim is bullish about growing the brand to exceed one billion dollars in turnover by 2020. And it’s clear how they plan to do this: by not only selling products but also letting consumers immerse themselves in the world of MCM.
Mr Schönberger, there was almost a collective sense of amazement that you, the bold modernist, would move from Adidas to MCM. A brand that, with its mass of colour, lots of logos and even more studs, doesn't exactly epitomise understatement. You and MCM – how do you fit together? Very well actually. I like a challenge. Also, who says I don’t like colour or logos? I definitely have a soft spot for glamour.
In an initial interview you said that you wanted to make MCM into a New School Luxury Brand. Sounds good. But what does that mean exactly? A brand that doesn't make luxury feel heavy and bourgeois but thinks more playfully. Something that MCM has done since its inception, actually. Founded in 1976, in an era of social change, MCM always had an attitude that was wild, hedonistic, and that went against the grain. I would like to build on that. Away from an all too elite concept of luxury to one immersed in the streets, youth and music.
Can you give us an example please? Traditional distinctive features are kept, but the look is luxury as non-luxury. Sung-Joo Kim understood that right from the start, and, at MCM, made backpacks for young, digitally connected nomads. A cool luxury item that derived from the idea of having your hands free. I’ve got my mobile phone in one hand, so I can’t hold a traditional handbag in the other.
In the spring you launched a new store concept, 1976 BERLIN. As it says, a retail experience with a cultural edge. What exactly should you be able to experience in an MCM store? And what do I do when, whisper it, I just want to buy a bag? You’re in luck – you can still buy a bag. A purely commercial transaction is no longer enough for me though.
Why not? Nowadays, you have to bring consumers closer to the world of brands and initiate a dialogue with them. Ultimately, they want to get a really good idea of the concept behind the brand. MCM is designed to be a young, agile, fast-moving brand; and so is this store. I want to be able to play with that in new ways wherever the mood takes me: accessories out, clothing in; art on the walls one night, maybe a dance performance on another night.
You presumably also have collaborations planned in too? After all, you helped Adidas achieve renewed world fame through the collaboration with Raf Simons and Kanye West. Why are they really considered to be the industry’s saving grace of late? I would love to describe their effect as a kind of positive virus that is injected into a brand; one that changes things and leaves its mark. There will be collaborations, but I want to take my time to find the right partners. Ultimately, a collaboration must always be something that asks questions, that makes people scratch their heads and say I’d never expected that. Otherwise it’s meaningless.
You’ve put together a design team in Berlin for MCM. What can a global, 21st century brand learn from the city of Berlin? The urge to never reach completion and to c onstantly change. This city has a very democratic attitude, too. Of course there are also elites in B erlin, but interaction between people is more open and relaxed. This feels modern to me and absolutely right for a brand like MCM.
You’re thought of as a kind of Millennials expert in the industry. What makes them tick, given that this generation is probably the most important today for luxury brands? That’s probably exactly what this generation really doesn't like – me as a 50+ individual defining them.
Take the plunge anyway. For me this is a really interesting generation for luxury brands, albeit also the most dangerous. It’s a “no bullshit” generation that won't be fooled any more. Pretty stories are no longer enough for them; they need substance.
The target group relevant to you is also said to be highly conscious of sustainability, of course. How will you do justice to this in the future at MCM? For example, we are currently looking into the use of recycled materials. This isn’t that easy for a lu xury brand like MCM, since many of these materials can’t yet ensure the top quality that’s e ssential for us. It’s a lengthy process, but inevitable. We can’t simply pretend that it won’t affect us all.
One last question to finish: what attribute do you really value in your new boss, Sung-Joo Kim? Her courage in taking on this brand and lifting it from a point of nothing to give it relevance again. She is one of those rare women who own a luxury brand and who act as role models. I don't know of any company that employs as many women in leadership positions as MCM does.
02-04/07/2019 Kraftwerk Berlin
T H E E
by BJÖRN LÜDTKE
D I G I TA L
I Z AT I O N
R A O F
Digitalization affects every aspect of modern lifestyle. #FASHIONTECH BERLIN is looking into the latest trends that shape our lives, such as street culture, e-sports and gaming, or mindful living. The fashion and lifestyle industries are as concerned with digital transformation as other industries are. Initiated by the fast turnover of information through social media, trends quickly travel around the world. Consumers and their habits adapt at the same rapid speed. They expect all-access everywhere, easy navigation, and fast results, no matter the channel. Within these industries, the desire for novelty is inherent and digitalization itself has become the accelerator of this yearning. The transformation involves every step of the industries’ supply chain: from buying and production, to marketing, communications or sales, to distribution, and finally presentation in showrooms or retail stores. But how to make a company eligible for the digital age? It is of the utmost importance that traditional brands rethink their deep-rooted structures and question each process. The goal is to – usefully and sensibly – digitally transform each step of the value chain. Take for example Gant, one of the leading fashion brands. Today, the Swedish fashion giant that was founded in the USA, thrives on consumer-first strategies and innovations. The CEO Brian Grevy, who joined the company in the summer of 2018, states: “Our intent is to continue to strengthen our business across all our markets through new innovations. The ambition is also to create operational leverage and efficiencies across the full value chain.” What does digitalization mean when it comes to creating, selling, and delivering products? “I think we will see that the focus will be on the experience, individualization, and convenience for the consumer. They are at the center and keeping a tight focus on their demands and what they will require will be of the essence to be able to move along with their pace but also to surprise them with opportunities that they didn’t even know that they wanted.”
Gant is at the forefront of digital transformation at every step of their value chain. Whether it be the implementation of cloud solutions to streamline the creative workflow, optimizing their backend to be able to offer a seamless shopping experience across all channels, or employing machine learning and algorithms that mirror the capabilities of an experienced salesperson in a retail store. Many new companies do not even bother with the traditional ways. Right from the start, they establish their brands in an exclusively digital way and, as social media develop into sales channels, they completely bypass the old sales structures. Luisa Krogmann co-founded the “digital first” and “direct-to-consumer” footwear brand Aeyde: “There’s no doubt how much power Instagram holds – it has forced long-established industries like media and retail to shift and adapt their strategies … we are generating 40 per cent of our sales via this tool.” Shopping via Facebook and Instagram has become standard. Next up: shopping via video! Aaron Levant is, together with Pharrell Williams, founder of the consumer event Complexcon, a mix of conference, festival, and trade show for pop culture, music, art, food, sport, innovation, activism, and education, where big players like Virgil Abloh introduce their products. Levant’s latest coup is N TWRK, a video commerce app where Gen Z’s cultural icons drop limited editions.
BRIAN GREVY, CEO GANT
Launched in 1949, Gant is rich in legacy and history but has never stopped reinventing itself.
Since its launch in 2015, Aeyde has grown to work with over 50 top retail platforms, including Net-A-Porter, Moda Operandi and Lane Crawford, gaining cult status among global fashion and style influencers.
#FASHIONTECH BERLIN © Offenblende
LUISA KROGMANN , FOUNDER & CEO AEYDE
Levant says: “Gen Z values authentic, immersive experiences centered around community, and shareability. A shopping experience must feel personal – not overly curated. Gen Z craves closeness to their favored creators rather than proximity to consumerism. The shopping experience should foster a sense of belonging to something more meaningful than a line outside of a sneaker shop. Gen Z puts weight on diversity and inclusion in product marketing, and appreciates brand transparency. “And again, lines are blurring. There will be no division between content and commerce. It will be one seamless experience.” To make the experience between fashion and tech even more seamless, the #FASHIONTECH BERLIN conference itself moves closer to the SEEK show, not just geographically, to Festsaal Kreuzberg, but also in terms of content. In the recent years, the Hypebeast trend has grown to become one of the most important in the market. Influenced by American hip-hop and icons like Kanye West, Rihanna, and Cardi B etc., the look, which only attracted a niche audience at first, is now shaping urban street styles.
But, fashion is only one aspect of the lifestyle culture. Always closely interwoven with other disciplines, such as art, beauty, and music, new disciplines like gaming and mindful living are playing an increasingly important role. Disruption is everywhere, especially when it comes to sports, attention is wandering from real life to gaming and e-sports, where the borders between the physical and digital worlds are becoming ever more indistinct. E-battles grow into real, large-scale events during which players, teams, and fans meet together in mega stadiums. They are the best examples of how offline and online can evolve into a modern lifestyle concept with commer-
cial potential. The e-players are hailed as true stars, whose outfits provide the ideal advertising space for sponsors. And last but not least, the topic that affects us all, to save our planet: mindful living does not just mean looking after your own body. It’s about living in a way that respects the environment – people, animals, and nature. While older generations are still learning, this respect is an intrinsic need for Gen Z. In line with the heightened interest, there is also a desire for transparency, and thus a need for information and corresponding products. Digital technologies play a crucial role – whether it be manufacturing products in a more efficient
and environmentally friendly way or creating algorithms that prevent overproduction. Michael Stracke, Chief Business Development Officer at #FASHIONTECH BERLIN, says: “We have decided to move closer to SEEK. By doing this we can gather our PREMIUM GROUP events at two locations. This also makes it easier for attendees of PREMIUM GROUP events to drop in to #FASHIONTECH BERLIN as well. The SEEK brands in par ticular are extremely tech-savvy and open to digitalization, which is why we will also be p resenting some Best Cases from the streetwear area at our event.”
AARON LEVANT, FOUNDER & CEO NTWRK
With NTWRK, Levant creates the next wave of video commerce.
#FASHIONTECH BERLIN 4 July 2019 Festsaal Kreuzberg 10 am– 5.30 pm TOPICS OF OUR TIME • digital business • street culture • e-sports & gaming • mindful living www.fashiontech.berlin
#FASHIONTECH BERLIN © Offenblende
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PLASTIC? NOT SO FANTASTIC! by KAY ALEXANDER PLONKA
hile we are still discussing single-use plastic bags, every day more and more plastic packaging is being used. Virtually all goods are abundantly packaged in plastic for the journey from the production site to the wholesaler or retailer. In many parts of the world the problem of waste is already at an almost unmanageable level. The ecological madness of our plastic world is already proving far more damaging to people and the environment than previously thought. This is because, while it seems there is still no solution in sight for this obvious problem, the next sad certainty is already looming: a third of the micro-plastic in the world’s oceans comes from textile fibres. We therefore urgently need to take the initiative individually and lead the way by setting a good example, in order to save what we still can.
and those selling fast fashion, there is little hope of sensible self-regulation. Only 9 per cent of plastic waste is recycled and 12 per cent incinerated. By way of contrast, Judith Finsterbusch is leading the way with Wertvoll, Berlin’s first Fair Fashion store with a linked online store. She has been actively working for 10 years to avoid extra packaging waste. “Shipping our goods in as resource-friendly a way as possible is one of
are rolled up and tied with an organic cotton ribbon. Our bags are made entirely from compostable film that comes from renewable raw ingredients. This film is certified as biodegradable. We rely on environmentally friendly solutions throughout the value chain,” explains business owner Heiko Wunder. Unfortunately, the idea of avoiding plastic hasn’t caught on yet when it comes to the majority of large brands and corporate groups. If you follow environmental organisations like Greenpeace or WWF on social media you’ll realise that plastic waste is the cancer affecting our planet. When wrongly used or disposed of, plastic causes enormous harm to nature and will be there forever. In addition to single-use plastic bottles, cotton buds, straws, take-away cups and cigarette butts, there is an even bigger problem that has been much less visible up to now: micro-plastic. It enters our waterways in wastewater in the form of detergent, toothpaste, cosmetics and shower gels; and, of course, also results from the abrasion of artificial grass or car tyres; as well as being produced by washing clothes made from synthetic materials. Once in the system, it makes its way into drinking water and the food chain.
“When I wrote about plastic pollution back in the 1980s people found it laughable. Today, these concerns are finally being taken seriously. It would be better to ban plastic from our lives.”
“At present, several million tonnes of plastic waste is floating about in the oceans, and more is being added every day. Plastic kills sea life and is a greater threat than oil spills. Oil is broken down by sunlight and bacteria. Plastic isn’t. The world got along without plastic before the 1950s. Unfortunately, it’s still very difficult to sidestep plastic when shopping,” says Captain Paul Watson from the marine conservation organisation Sea Shepherd. On one hand, it’s true that there are more and more “unpacked” shops that, as small retail stores offering everyday essentials, will use containers that customers bring with them to pack food in. There are also organic and chemist chains that aim to avoid packaging. On the other hand, if we look at the majority of the conventional supermarkets, discounters, online shipment companies
Captain Paul Watson, Sea Shepherd
our maxims. We therefore use as little packaging as possible, and what we do use is made from 100% recycled and reusable paper. In doing so we mainly rely on material that our suppliers have already used and we reuse this.” Most manufacturers ask that retailers only accept the goods when they have been packed in plastic bags, so they are protected from dirt and damage while being transported or stored. The Wunderwerk brand is seeking out sustainable alternatives, however. “We do not use petroleumbased polybags at all. Our denim products
Filters in washing machines that trap the dislodged synthetic fibres could act as the remedy for textiles, as the Plastic Soup Foundation recently presented to the Plastic Leak Project, the Italian IPCBCNR Institute, PlanetCare, a manufacturer of micro-plastic filters, and S ympatex Technologies. Until these types of filters can be used in or retrofitted to all washing machines, the recommendation is to use a Guppy Friend washbag or similar
“The chemicals from plastic waste enter our food, our drinking water and, therefore, our bodies. This is why plastic is unsafe and dangerous.” Cyrill Gutsch, PARLEY FOR THE OCEANS
“We avoid buying new packaging materials out of concern for the environment.” Judith Finsterbusch, WERTVOLL BERLIN
“We forego the use of acrylic, polyamide and polyurethane as a matter of principle, together with other petroleumbased plastics, insofar as possible, in the materials in our collections.” Heiko Wunder, WUNDERWERK
“We have to act. We all need to rethink plastic and the way we manage it. It’s not just about us, it’s about our planet!” Elisa Riva, NORTH SAILS
“We need to focus more on what kind of kids we are going to leave to the planet and not so much in what planet we are going to leave to our kids." Javier Goyeneche, ECOALF
“Single use plastics are a global problem – travelling from one corner of the Earth to the other, polluting our planet! We want to encourage people to rethink their use of single use plastics and show simple, daily use alternatives to protect our environment and oceans.” Jussi Oksanen, MIZU
product. During the wash, dislodged fibres collect inside the bag. These remnants can then be easily removed and disposed of. Alexander Nolte and Oliver Spies invented the washbag together with the team at the not-for-profit organisation STOP! Micro Waste, which is calling attention to the problem of plastic waste and initiating and implementing solutions for avoiding plastic. Cyrill Gutsch from Parley for the Oceans, which in future is aiming to produce 11 million pairs of sneakers from recycled ocean waste in collaboration with Adidas, says: “You’ll find plastic waste even in the remotest areas of the planet. Seeing this makes it very clear that plastic is a faulty design. We have created a material that will last forever. What we can do at the moment is to reduce, reuse and recycle, but that won't solve the issue in the long term. We need a materials revolution where we break away from traditional technologies completely and develop new ones that can replace plastic without limitations.” It sounds good, but even in the recycling phase for financially strong,
large companies is still in its infancy. The Austrian energy group OMV claims to have developed a method of creating synthetic raw oil from plastic waste using the effects of heat and pressure. And P rofessor Moritz Kuehnel from the British Engineering and Physical S ciences Research Council claims to have developed a method of extracting hydrogen from any plastic waste and producing fuel from it. Lastly, Ralph Lauren has launched a small series of polo shirts made entirely from recycled PET bottles. The brand intends to recycle 170 million plastic bottles in this way by 2025. It’s a matter of urgently avoiding creating new waste, or at least reusing it in a sensible way within a closed circuit. The words of British researcher Robert Swan are very pertinent here: “The greatest danger to our planet is the belief that someone else will save it.”
northsails.com seashepherd.org wunderwerk.com guppyfriend.com parley.tv adidas.de/parley wertvoll-berlin.com/ ecoalf.com mizulife.com/
Freitag passiertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. Intensive Reportagen, anspruchsvolle Fotostrecken, Ăźberraschende Essays und Kolumnen: Das SZ-Magazin hat eine Wirkung, der sich niemand entziehen kann. Am 6. September 2019 erscheint das MODE-Special des SZ-Magazins.
Weitere Informationen und Mediadaten unter: sz-media.de/sz-magazin.
FASHION’S PERENNIAL STRUGGLE WITH COLOR
VALENTINO # X FROM THE SERIES AL-KOUTURE 2018
© Wesaam Al-Badry
by QUYNH TRAN
How the industry still struggles to address issues of diversity
In terms of real colour, it seems like the fashion wheel hasn’t turned since China Machado graced Harper’s Bazaar as the first non-white model of colour in the editorial of a major fashion magazine. She was only the first in a row of new, strong women who challenged a previously white beauty standard: in the couple of decades that followed, icons like Doyale Luna, Tina Chow, Pat Cleveland, Iman, Beverly Johnson, Mounia and Grace Jones literally dashed some colour on high fashion, both with their looks and personalities, and inspired the likes of Cristóbal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent.
Museum Angewandte Kunst – Contemporary Muslim Fashions / Odd 1 Out © Hassan Hajjaj; Our bodies our business © DarSalma Photography
But while the world has become more interdependent and societies mingle through migration and technology, the industry most notorious for its fast pace seems to be moving backwards in time in 2019 when it comes to the people: as if to scorn their heritage, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent are among the most prominent brands in the ever-same discussion about runways that are dominated by white models; reports of discrimination against people of colour at high fashion companies and in stores surface on a regular basis; and outcries about cultural appropriation and racist images are spinning around in circles. The reel of inappropriate cultural behaviour seems to be endless, but on social media the real world (whose social changes fashion doesn’t seem to acknowledge) is starting to demand justice. Within a few months, major fashion houses like Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Prada faced serious backlashes for products reminiscent of symbols of racial injustice. Among many, rapper T.I. and director Spike Lee announced that they were boycotting Gucci on account of a jumper that resembled the blackface
practice, and Prada for their Pradamalia keychains that recalled diminutive, colonial black figurines. "I, Spike Lee, of sound mind and body, will no longer wear Prada or Gucci until they hire some black designers to be in da room when it happens,” he posted on his Instagram profile, "it's obvious to da peoples that they don't have a clue when it comes to racist, blackface, hateful imagery. Wake up." While the public outcry did trigger reactions, the responses vary widely. Dolce & Gabbana might have lost the Chinese market that makes up almost a third of their luxury sales with an insensitive advertisement featuring a Chinese model trying to eat pizza with chopsticks and the failure to acknowledge any misstep. Immediately after the Pradamalia incident the brand’s matriarch, Miuccia Prada, exposed continuous ignorance that caused even more offence: “There can sometimes be a lack of generosity but, on the other hand, how can we know all cultures? The Chinese protest, then the Sikhs, then Mexicans, then Afro- Americans,” she told WWD in an interview, “but how can you know the details of each single culture so well when there can be 100 different cultures in every country?” After the interview, however, the brand announced that it was setting up an advisory council on diversity that will include Director Ava DuVernay and Artist Theaster Gates, and featured one of the most diverse campaigns for their spring/summer campaign 2019. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, on the other hand, took full responsibility, and introduced an action plan that includes a global director of diversity and inclusion, a Changemakers programme and scholarships in several African countries.
NAOMI AFIA – OUR BODIES OUR BUSINESS
But it’s something of a testament to incapacity that fashion brands react mainly to market movements: it seems that only if an insensitive action jeopardises sales because it offends a large enough group of potential consumers, that it stirs up the matter of diversity. “Diversity is becoming more and more of an issue in fashion, but growing diversity doesn’t necessarily mean that people also become more sensitive. I feel that the commercial interest is prioritised over real understanding, and this is very problematic. The past seasons have seen a kind of feel-good diversity that is counterproductive to real inclusion, and this is not how diversity should be talked about,” says Mahret Ifeoma Kupka, Fashion Curator at Frankfurt’s Museum Angewandte Kunst, which has faced criticism for its exhibition on Muslim fashions in a display about the lack of tolerance about fashion. But the recent scandals that expose a monochromatic way of thinking that still pervades the public image are a chance to ignite the conversation about a long ignored subject. Only through mediation can the constant insensitivity about racial stereotypes and the lack of representation be fixed. And after all, fashion has seen some changes in recent years: Edward Enninful has become the first black Editor-in-Chief of a Condé Nast title and has visibly changed the face of British Vogue; designers like Telfar and Shayne Oliver, who is also Creative Director at Helmut Lang, weaved different-ness into their collections; and new brands like GmbH and Ldn.istan are visualising their experiences of multicultural upbringing. Through all the missteps, there is some colour at the end of the tunnel. And, if only mostly for a more and more diverse set of consumers who change the rules of the market, a shift that even the biggest fashion brand has to address.
HASSAN HAJJAJ, ODD 1 OUT 2000
Illlustration Sonja Marterner
WELCOME TO BERLIN by KALOLINA LANDOWSKI
PREMIUM / SHOW&ORDER STATION Berlin / Kühlhaus Luckenwalder Strasse 4–6 10963 Berlin
More inspiration, more emotion! As the leading trade show for Advanced Contemporary Fashion PREMIUM is focussing on restructuring its halls. Key looks rather than huge collections: the themed zones will be composed in a more precise way, making it simpler for visitors to get an overview. The trade show at Gleisdreieck is staying true to the topic of sustainability. There will be no plastic in the catering areas; a strong focus on rubbish sorting; and specific promotion of eco brands. The department store concept at SHOW&ORDER X PREMIUM is unique. 200 fashion brands, t ogether with beauty products, interior design pieces, stationery, books, music, perfumes and innovative food concepts will be on show across the six p artially open, gallery-like floors of the Kühlhaus, which is situated next door to PREMIUM. Buyers gain inspiration and stories not only from the family atmosphere, but also from the spacious E xperience Floor. The outside area with its beach lounge, bar and delectable catering provides the perfect setting for an after-work get-together for both trade shows on Wednesday night.
PANORAMA BERLIN Messe Berlin Messedamm 22 14055 Berlin
Together with the trade show for quality garments, SELVEDGE RUN & ZEITGEIST and the sustainable fashion show XOOM, this season PANORAMA BERLIN will again be staging a curated world of contemporary womenswear and menswear. The summer edition will zoom in on the topics of event culture, infotainment and matchmaking. From casual and sportswear, contemporary styles to denim, heritage and streetwear through to accessories and shoes: the selection of fashion collections and lifestyle products will be rounded off by an innovative spectrum of providers of retail solutions and leading keynote speakers discussing a variety of future topics pertaining to marketing, communication, e-commerce and digitalisation. From furniture to beauty products: In new, central concept store areas in halls 1 to 4, brands and products are presented in a new exciting relationship, providing a wealth of inspiration in terms of presentation and composition.
Arena Eichenstrasse 4 12435 Berlin
Kraftwerk Köpenicker Strasse 70 10179 Berlin As a global hub for fashion, sustainability and innovation NEONYT unites leading brands and exciting newcomers in the field of sustainability at Kraftwerk Berlin. Reason to celebrate: the precursor event to NEONYT is marking its tenth year. In July 2009 Magdalena Schaffrin and Jana Keller initiated the Greenshowroom as a platform for sustainable fashion during Berlin Fashion Week. This evolved into what is now Neonyt. The topic of retail is a particular focus for the summer edition. In collaboration with its renowned partners NEONYT offers an extensive programme including talks, discussions, networking events and a showcase. The focus is on topics like communicating aspects of sustainability, margins, ranges, collections and POS solutions. There will be more time for ordering, too: for the summer edition of NEONYT Kraftwerk Berlin will be opening its doors an hour earlier.
SEEK © Jan Kapitän
Each season, SEEK, the Voice of Street Culture, presents selected streetwear and urbanwear p ieces that interpret the modern zeitgeist for the industry. More a community than a trade show, SEEK stands for democracy and fairness, clarity and authenticity – and valuable inspiration. The focus is on carefully selected style tribes. The concept of the Trade Union has been carried forward and perfected from time to time. The bringing t ogether of pioneers and industry visionaries will be given an extra space for promoting discussion, inspiration and food for thought. Moreover, it’s “sharing is caring” again: together with the B erlin-based NGO One Warm Winter, the call to donate old samples and sneakers in the containers put out specially for the purpose has gone out not only to the exhibitors, but also to all visitors. And the 60th anniversary of Alpha Industries, the 100th of Champion and Farah and the A SICSTIGER x OVERKILL x SEEK Block Party Vol. 2. special event are all generating a real party vibe. So many reasons to celebrate!
#FASHIONTECH BERLIN Festsaal Kreuzberg Am Flutgraben 2 12435 Berlin
Ewerk Wilhelmstrasse 43 10117 Berlin MBFW which is held from 1 to 3 July 2019, concentrates on the staging of selected high-end labels in the bare and industrial settings of the Ewerk. The show concept will be further developed in line with the idea of “Follow MBFW – Focus Fashion”, and will aim to portray an even wider spectrum of the German fashion market. The vision: creating innovative events to make fashion in Germany more accessible for the end consumer. A Livestream – for public viewing directly on location and online – will be presenting insights and background info throughout the whole Fashion Week. MBFW will open on 1 July 2019 at 12.00 pm with the show featuring this year’s winner of the Grand Prix of the 34th International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories in Hyères.
#FASHIONTECH BERLIN © Offenblende
#FASHIONTECH BERLIN, which will take place on 4 July 2019 at its new venue of Festsaal K reuzberg, will be dedicated to Topics of our Time. Everything that affects our society today has ramifications for the world of business. The digital transformation affects all members of the fashion industry’s value chain: from purchasing and production to marketing, communication and sales, through to presentation in-store. Fashion is only one aspect of the lifestyle culture, however. Always closely interwoven with other disciplines, such as art, beauty and music, new disciplines like e -sports and mindful living today play an increasingly important role. The topical highlights at the next #FASHIONTECH BERLIN will therefore cover Digital Business, Street Culture, E-Sports & Gaming and Mindful Living. The conference is the ideal venue for networking and getting the lowdown on the latest developments in tech. And, as of now, the conference will be held at a new location: by moving to Festsaal Kreuzberg #FASHIONTECH BERLIN is aiming to move closer in both location and content to SEEK and its lifestyle-conscious brands.
FKK CLUB BERLIN OPENING HOURS Mo. - Fr. 11.00 AM - 05.00 AM Sa. - Su. 11.00 AM - 05.00 AM +49 30 8904440 www.fkk-artemis.de HalenseestraÃ&#x;e 32-36 10711 Berlin
One of the most endemic problems is the use of artificial ingredients linked to potent chemicals that destroy our cells, natural environments and animal populations. It’s something Berlin sculptor and patisserie chef Kristiane Kegelmann challenges beautifully with her eye catching praline manufactory, PARS Pralinen. Each of her chocolates is its own geometric work of art, in demand at some of the city’s best restaurants and luxury brands and Kristiane works only with natural colours and flavourings drawn from produce sourced directly from Berlin/Brandenburg farmers she has a
personal connection with. It means her sweet treats burst literally with all-natural goodness. Using regional foodstuffs is still often overlooked in favour of “exotic” globalised ingredients. Trailblazing food startup, Holycrab!, challenge this preference by turning “plague to plate”, using the invasive American Marsh Crabs clogging Berlin’s waterways to make speciality dishes including crawfish boils and lobster rolls. Eating regionally in this way supports local ecosystems and reduces CO2 emissions, something which Holycrab! co-founder, Juliane Bublitz feels passionately about. “We think it’s absurd to eat imported seafoods when they’re found wild and in much better quality with no added antibiotics, right on our doorsteps” she points out. Berlin’s best restaurants also have resolutely local approaches to ingredients. At the Michelinstarred, Einsunternull, Berlin’s many regional food references are brought to life through
products either grown in their own garden or that are available with short transport routes. For founder and sommelier, Ivo Ebert, it’s the only way to operate: “we’ve been working closely with local producers for years” he said, “it’s the only way we can guarantee the consistently high quality that our guests expect from us." And at Frea, the first 100% plant-based and zerowaste restaurant in the world, the emphasis is on “full taste, zero waste”. Whilst it may surprise you to see both cacao and coffee on the menu at Frea, the restaurant works exceptionally hard seeking out ethical products produced in chemical-free and water use-monitored monocultures where resource conservation is key. Some of the restaurant’s suppliers even use sailboats to transport goods, proving that even globalised foods can be enjoyed with an ecological footprint. It’s a holistic as opposed to dogmatic mindset that will serve our sustainable futures the best in the end. At the Gut.Gut. “fermentary” in
© Nino Halm, Augusteç Tamulyteç, Anne Smith
Food sustainability is one of the principle food trends for 2019 with good reason. The need to find more viable means to feed the world is more urgent than ever and whilst the philosophy is easy to preach, turning ideas into action is a lot harder. In Berlin though, we find a city alive with goodness and awash with innovators tackling sustainability issues through 360° solutions.
OTHER BERLIN FOOD SUSTAINABILITY HEROES: Ice Cream: jonesicecream.com Cafe space and event platform: hermanns.com Cookbook: Sophia Hoffmann – Zero Waste Küche Cocktails: @velvet.berlin Events: terroirtalk.org
Kreuzberg, owner, Adina Bier endorses the concept nutritionally through her brilliant kombucha and kefir products, as well as practically through their production. Gut.Gut.’s ferments support happy stomachs which sustain overall body health (ask for her probiotic-rich wonder drug – kefir water) but every part of the newly opened shop will eventually promote circular production. Adina already has her own pfand system in place and plans eventually
by KATE LEWIN
to make household cleaners made with lemon rinds and old kombucha starters and even dog foods made from kefir crystals. Likewise, Isla Coffee in Neukölln is also trying to implement the principles of circular economy as best it can. For owner Peter Duran, this means starting with high-quality, regional, seasonal and organic products whose entire lifespan is then planned out to encompass their
processing and reprocessing with minimal waste. The concept is also applied to the shop’s furniture which is largely made from reclaimed wood, as well as coffee cups made from coffee grounds and wood. Isla chooses to use small elements to demonstrate its approach as opposed to shouting about it. “We find a conversation to be a lot more effective” Peter said. Conversation and communication are the most effective and immediate tools we have in the battle for sustainable futures and Berlin is a city rich in unsung heroes. Make sure you seek them out, support their work and celebrate their efforts in all their forms.
parspralinen.com holycrab.berlin restaurant-einsunternull.de frea.de gutgut.co @islacoffeeberlin
OFF THE WALL MEAT MURAL @ BERNAUER STRASSE
by RENKO HEUER
A growing, quickly changing metropolis, Berlin still offers a range of unlikely treasures and hidden hotspots among its sprawl – including graffiti-covered ruins and epic XL murals. From concealed to truly inyour-face, here’s a quick glimpse at alternative Berlin sights that might be gone tomorrow. Three decades after the fall of the Wall, the German capital is buzzing more than ever, and that easy-going, laid-back vibe the city’s still renowned for is slowly making way for a more crowded, quicker-paced status quo. Whereas many areas are reimagined, and many bright new walls are erected, there’s still a lot of room for uncommon modes of existence and expression – whether it’s dancing in clubs, skateboarding in public spaces, urban gardening, graffiti and other forms of Urban/Street Art, or, quite simply: Urban Exploring. Although the majority of the 13.5+ million visitors that arrive in Berlin every year are happy to line up for Museum Island’s many treats, and shoot pictures in front of Brandenburg Gate, some indeed come for more adventurous explorations – like Volker Dilger, a Königsteinbased photographer with a penchant for Urban Exploring and abandoned sites in general.
“The fact that you can still find places that have been off the radar for so long, even in a highly civilised country such as Germany – it’s just amazing,” says Dilger – and his stunning photographs perfectly underline what he means by “off the radar for so long”.
“A post-human scenario” Especially in a city that changes so rapidly in some areas, the fact that time seems to be standing still in others is indeed all the more incredible: “It feels a bit like the Last Days, like a post-human scenario,” he says about the various discarded building complexes around town that he’s visited, including Waldhaus Buch, Free University's former I nstitute of Anatomy, the paediatric hospital in Berlin-Weissensee, or architecturally stunning Beelitz sanitorium just outside of Berlin, a “true mecca for Urban Explorers” (also featured in recent Hollywood film “A Cure For Wellness”). “Visiting these places, it’s so easy to imagine what the world looks like once humanity has vanished.” By now well documented on various blogs and even available in coffee table book format, the morbid charms not only attract photographers and adventure-seeking kids, but also street artists honing their craft on the crumbling, colourful walls: “Especially the paediatric hospital in Weissensee is the ultimate spot for graffiti,” he points out. “You can find some truly artful pieces around that place.”
@ Dixons: xi-design.com, East Side Gallery, Volker Dilger: fine-artfoto.de
That said, the heydays of #abandonedberlin are slowly drawing to a close, since many forgotten buildings are scheduled for refurbishment: “Sadly, one location after the next is lost – at least from our point of view. It’s actually the other way around: they finally get a new lease of life.” However, there’s still plenty to explore: the number of images tagged #abandonedberlin – currently some 24k – continues to rise every day...
MONA LISA @ EAST SIDE GALLERY
PAEDIATRIC HOSPITAL @ WEISSENSEE
“All you need is spray cans and a large wall: for us it’s the ultimate way to get creative, to help shape the cityscape surrounding us.” The Dixons
Just around the corner, and yet a world away from the fenced-in, overgrown and graffiti-clad relics of Cold War Germany, Berlin-based The Dixons also specialise in visual makeovers, but these guys are all about visibility and XL dimensions. Collaborating on murals and wall-sized artworks for more than 15 years, the collective’s #1 priority is to bring fresh artistic angles to Berlin’s streets.
“If walls could talk…” A must-see example is the famous “Meat Mural” on Bernauer Strasse, right next to the Wall Memorial. Based on the winning entry to a competition themed “If walls could talk,” The Dixons fleshed out designer Marcus Haas’ bleeding reminder of the huge scar Berliners had to live with for decades. “That one was originally supposed to disappear after
MTO @ WARSCHAUER STRASSE
a few months; it’s still around because it’s so popular,” they explain. (Awesome detail: the marbling of the meat is based on the city’s districts.) Often rather ephemeral pieces, their recent and much-lauded Mona Lisa rendition disappeared as quickly as it arrived… “Inviting the official kings and queens of the international mural scene,” The Dixons debuted their own Berlin Mural Fest in 2018, launching 23 new oversized paintings at once, with a second BMF edition coming up later this year – “this time including even more boroughs,” they promise. “We’re going to take over all of Berlin.” Ideal destinations for those who need a quick, mind-blowing Urban Art fix – no lines, no fees, no heavy concepts – we asked The Dixons to compile a crisp Berlin Mural Guide for summer 2019 (see box below). For even more wall-sized goodness, make sure to check out BMF’s app, a great tool that allows you to plan an even longer jaunt to the city’s top sky-scraping masterpieces.
5 MURAL HIGHLIGHTS – SELECTED BY THE DIXONS Stromstrasse 36, Moabit “As Long As You Are Standing, Give A Hand To Those Who Have Fallen” by Herakut/Wes21/Onur Wrangelstrasse 127, Kreuzberg “A Wise Man” by Huariu Oranienstrasse 195, Kreuzberg “Astronaut/Cosmonaut” by Victor Ash
ISAKOV @ HOLZMARKTSTRASSE
Bernburger Strasse 35, Kreuzberg “One Wall” by Telmo Miel & James Bullough Warschauer Strasse 58, Friedrichshain “Anniversary Wall” by MTO
PREMIUM HALL 4
BERLIN FASHION WEEK GUIDE #28
1976 BERLIN Torstrasse 74 10119 Berlin Germany mcmworldwide.com
CAFÃ&#x2030;S & DELIS
EDITORIAL Rap and Berlin invariably belong together. For over twenty years the city has shaped the sound and vice versa. In the cover story of Berlin Fashion Week Magazine #28 rappers* Nura, Sero, Frauenarzt and MC Bogy
explain how that works, in very different ways. Find out where they meet in the city, where they go to party and where you can find the best Margherita pizza, all in the pages of the Berlin Fashion Week Guide.
SHOPPING 1976 BERLIN
Torstrasse 74 Mitte de.mcmworldwide.com
SOTO Torstrasse 72 Mitte sotostore.com
Mitte OUR LEGACY
THE CORNER BERLIN EAST
Tucholskystrasse 45 Mitte ourlegacy.se
Französische Strasse 40 Mitte thecornerberlin.de
Münzstrasse 13–15 Mitte adidas.de
Memhardstrasse 8 Mitte apartmentberlin.de
Auguststrasse 77 Mitte aprilfirst.de
DO YOU README?!
COMME DES GARÇONS
Auguststrasse 28 Mitte doyoureadme.de
Linienstrasse 115 Mitte comme-des-garcons.com
Friedrichstrasse 23 Mitte galerieslafayette.de
Kleine Hamburger Strasse 15 Mitte konk-berlin.de
Torstrasse 109 Mitte hannesroether.de
Auguststrasse 26a Mitte sabrinadehoff.com
Alte Schönhauser Strasse 3 Mitte lalaberlin.com
Brunnenstrasse 183 Mitte studio183.co
Mulackstrasse 15 Mitte starstyling.net
SNEAKERSNSTUFF SNEAKERSNSTUFF is a global retail experience founded in 1999 by Erik Fagerlind and Peter Jansson who turned a sneaker collection into a global retail company. Two decades later SNS has brick and mortar locations in Stockholm, Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles, Berlin Mitte and online, operating as a multibrand store hosting limited-edition and hard to get sneakers as well as a premium selection of delicately selected clothing brands. Schönhauser Allee 6/7 Prenzlauer Berg sneakersnstuff.com
BIKINI BERLIN BIKINI BERLIN combines relaxation and entertainment with a distinctive shopping experience through its carefully curated stores and cuisines – an urban oasis designed to invigorate. The pop-up boxes are a crucial element of the concept shopping mall. They allow young designers or well-known brands to present new products to the public for the first time. The new culinary centrepiece is the KANTINI food market, which opened in January 2018. Budapester Strasse 38–50 Charlottenburg bikiniberlin.de
Weinbergsweg 22 Mitte superconscious.de
Torstrasse 161 Mitte dstm.co
Ackerstrasse 144 Mitte oukan.de
Torstrasse 173 Mitte schwarzhogerzeil.de
Mulackstrasse 4 Mitte
Weinmeisterstrasse 2 Mitte acne.com
HNTA STORE Torstrasse 178 Mitte hnta.de
Kreuzberg VOO STORE Oranienstrasse 24 Kreuzberg vooberlin.com
Inselstrasse 13 Mitte islaberlin.com
Oranienstrasse 181 Kreuzberg vooberlin.com
Münzstrasse 2 Mitte orlando-berlin.de
Alexandrinenstrasse 118–121 St. Agnes | Kreuzberg 032c.com
Brunnenstrasse 13 Mitte civilistberlin.com
Reichenberger Strasse 53 Kreuzberg sporadic.xyz
WILLIAM FAN Große Hamburger Strasse 25 Mitte williamfan.com
VERONICA POHLE Kurfürstendamm 64 Charlottenburg veronicapohle.de
Prenzlauer Berg THE STORE
Torstrasse 1 Prenzlauer Berg thestores.com/berlin
Kurfürstendamm 26a Charlottenburg oliverpeoples.com
FEIN UND RIPP
Kastanienallee 91 Prenzlauer Berg feinundripp.de
Budapester Strasse 38–50 Bikini Berlin | Charlottenburg mykita.com
Kastanienallee 75 Prenzlauer Berg bql.berlin
Budapester Strasse 38–50 Bikini Berlin | Charlottenburg salbasics.com
Kastanienallee 34 Prenzlauer Berg mazooka.de
Kurfürstendamm 52 Charlottenburg mientus.com
Kastanienallee 36a Prenzlauer Berg temporaryshowroom.com
Tauentzienstrasse 9–12 Charlottenburg drmartens.com
Budapester Strasse 50 Bikini Berlin | Charlottenburg super-space.de
SUPER CONCEPT SPACE
THE CORNER BERLIN WEST
Schlüterstrasse 45 Charlottenburg thecornerberlin.de
Fasanenstrasse 22 Charlottenburg apc.fr
OVERKILL Since 2003 OVERKILL has been an institution for sneaker fans in the heart of Kreuzberg. 2016 saw the opening of an extra store right next door for women and children. Alongside a huge choice of shoes you‘ll also find selected accessories and relevant clothing. The store design is a real eye-catcher in gleaming white. Try on shoes at your leisure, perched on stylist seats under the golden palms. Köpenicker Strasse 195a Kreuzberg overkillshop.com
LIU JO Born from the intuition of Marco Marchi, LIU JO was founded in 1995 in Carpi, Italian area of excellence for knits. Its creative philosophy is devoted to the enhancement of the natural femininity of every woman, expressed through a refined and glamorous style. Thanks to a multibrand strategy capable of structuring a complete offer of total look, today LIU JO is present in 50 countries through a distribution network including over 480 mono-brand points of sales and 5300 multi-brand points of sales worldwide. Kurfürstendamm 213 Charlottenburg liujo.com
VIU VIU prescription glasses and sunglasses combine brilliant design with a transparent manufacturing process and fair prices. The collections are designed in Switzerland by Fabrice Aeberhard, VIU’s C reative Director. Each individual pair is then handcrafted at a traditional manufacturer in the Italian Dolomites. Sunglasses start from € 145, prescription glasses from € 165. Designed in Switzerland with great attention to detail – handmade in Italy. Potsdamer Strasse 77–79 Tiergarten de.shopviu.com
ANNETTE GÖRTZ Timeless, purist and exceptional in detail – these are the avant-garde designs of ANNETTE GÖRTZ. The flagship store of the internationally successful label presents current collections in a special ambience: industrial design and art objects accompany the fashion of this German label. The most varied projects and installations also ensure that boredom never arises. Markgrafenstrasse 42 Mitte annettegoertz.de
TASCHEN STORE BERLIN Schlüterstrasse 39 Charlottenburg taschen.com
Schlüterstrasse 48 Charlottenburg dorothee-schumacher.com
Tauentzienstrasse 21–24 Schöneberg kadewe.de
Kantstrasse 139 Charlottenburg | by appointment frank-leder.com
Nürnberger Strasse 14 Schöneberg solebox.com
L’ÉPHÉMÈRE Knesebeckstrasse 27 Charlottenburg ephemere.de
ANDREAS MURKUDIS 81
Schlüterstrasse 12 Charlottenburg marcelostertag.com
Potsdamer Strasse 81 Tiergarten andreasmurkudis.com
PAPER & TEA
Bleibtreustrasse 4 Charlottenburg paperandtea.de
Potsdamer Strasse 81–83 Tiergarten fionabennett.de
TIGER OF SWEDEN
Kurfürstendamm 29 Charlottenburg tigerofsweden.com
Potsdamer Strasse 100 Tiergarten de.trippen.com
RIMOWA FLAGSHIP STORE
Kurfürstendamm 53 Charlottenburg rimowa.com
Potsdamer Strasse 81a Tiergarten odeeh.com
SHOPPING / MINDFUL
Memhardtstrasse 7 Mitte nudiejeans.com
Gormannstrasse 16 Mitte mankii-vintage.com
Münzstrasse 19 Mitte picknweight.de
Alte Schönhauser Strasse 5 Mitte ecoalf.com
Auguststrasse 41 Mitte wolfengermany.de
Linienstrasse 204–205 Mitte garments-vintage.de
Wiener Strasse 16 Kreuzberg original-unverpackt.de
Max-Beer-Strasse 31 Mitte | by appointment zazi-vintage.com
Wiener Strasse 16 Kreuzberg supermarche-berlin.de
Max-Beer-Strasse 3 Mitte freitag.ch
Oranienstrasse 194 Kreuzberg iriedaily.de
Torstrasse 138 Mitte arys-berlin.com
Schönleinstrasse 10 Kreuzberg moeon.de
DAS NEUE SCHWARZ
Mulackstrasse 38 Mitte dasneueschwarz.de
Dieffenbachstrasse 15 Kreuzberg fb.me/homagestore
Oranienstrasse 9 Kreuzberg depot2.de
Sonnenallee 174 Neukölln studiohertzberg.de
Sonntagstrasse 29 Friedrichshain loveco-shop.de
Weserstrasse 53 Neukölln fb.me/neuzwei
Weichselstrasse 59 Neukölln shiostore.com
Sanderstrasse 11 Neukölln fb.me/singblackbird
Tellstrasse 7 Neukölln fb.me/WESENberlin
Marienburger Strasse 39 Prenzlauer Berg wertvoll-berlin.com
Karl-Marx-Platz 15 | Neukölln woodstories.wixsite.com/ woodstories
Marienburger Strasse 24 Prenzlauer Berg soeur-berlin.de
WUNDERWERK Kastanienallee 11 Prenzlauer Berg wunderwerk.com
Reuterstrasse 53 | Neukölln standard-saubere-sachen.de
RITA IN PALMA
Kienitzer Strasse 101 Neukölln rita-in-palma.com
Budapester Strasse 38–50 Bikini Berlin | Charlottenburg ind-berlin.net
THE GOOD STORE
Pannierstrasse 31 Neukölln thegoodstore.berlin
Akazienstrasse 26 Schöneberg yeyeye.de
SHOPPING / MINDFUL
STANDARD SAUBERE SACHEN
INTERIOR ANATOMIE FLEUR Strausberger Platz 19 Friedrichshain | by appointment anatomiefleur.com
OBJEKTE UNSERER TAGE
© Alex de Brabant
Schröderstrasse 13 Mitte parkhausberlin.de
Linienstrasse 149 Mitte roomcapacity.de
Auguststrasse 77–78 Mitte hayberlin.de
Rosenthaler Strasse 15 Mitte schee.net
Oranienburger Strasse 21 Mitte flagstone.de
Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 9–13 Mitte typehype.com
Linienstrasse 106 Mitte 10119.de
Brunnenstrasse 190 Mitte fb.me/brunnen190
Linienstrasse 150 Mitte amodoberlin.com
Rosenthaler Strasse 13 Mitte granit.com/de
B&B ITALIA BRANDSTORE
Chausseestrasse 1 Mitte bolia.com
Torstrasse 140 Mitte minimum.de
FORMEL A BERLIN
Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 22 Mitte formelaberlin.de
Schröderstrasse 3 Mitte newman-interiors.com
Alexanderstrasse 7 Mitte objekteunserertage.com
HOTEL ULTRA HOTEL ULTRA’s guests are selected products from international designers and brands that “check in” to 36 different “rooms”, where they wait for you to check them out. A lthough each guest has their own (design) language, here they happily inhabit the same space, whether it’s a p aperclip next to a floor lamp or a vase sharing a spot with an armchair. From aesthetic designs to m inimalist e lements, every budget and taste is catered for here. Torstrasse 155 Mitte hotelultra.de
URBAN INDUSTRIAL URBAN INDUSTRIAL is the place to go to find that unique item for your home, hotel or restaurant. URBAN INDUSTRIAL have considerable experience in finding and restoring old vintage items. With a 1,000 m2 showroom and workshop located at H asenheide 13, they have created a space where everything is possible. Do you have a dream of creating your own table? They can make it come true! Have you seen a special lamp you cannot get out of your mind? They can find it for you! Hasenheide 13 Kreuzberg urban-industrial.de
MYKILOS Leipziger Strasse 65 Mitte mykilos.de
Mulackstrasse 1 Mitte
Kantstrasse 148 Charlottenburg dopo-domani.de
Kantstrasse 79 Charlottenburg bocci.ca/79
Tempelhofer Ufer 1 Kreuzberg hallescheshaus.com
Giesebrechtstrasse 11 Charlottenburg rix-interior.de
SÜPER STORE Dieffenbachstrasse 12 Kreuzberg sueper-store.de
Gneisenaustrasse 57 Kreuzberg valuc15.com
Lindower Strasse 18, Aufgang 3 Wedding | by appointment aptm.berlin
KÜHN KERAMIK Yorckstrasse 18 Kreuzberg kuehn-keramik.com
ANDREAS MURKUDIS 77 & 98
Kreuzbergstrasse 78 Kreuzberg bazar-noir.com
Potsdamer Strasse 77 & 98 Tiergarten andreasmurkudis.com
HETTI & THE CONSCIOUS CLUB
INTERIOR / MINDFUL
Brunnenstrasse 3 Mitte jan-kath.de
Reuterstrasse 62 | Neukölln hettiberlin.com
ORIGINAL IN BERLIN
Karl-Marx-Allee 83 Mitte originalinberlin.com
Sredzkistrasse 44 Prenzlauer Berg wildheartfreesoul.com
MOTEL A MIIO
Münzstrasse 11 Mitte motelamiio.com
Dunckerstrasse 11 Prenzlauer Berg nandistore.com
HOME ON EARTH
Rosenthaler Strasse 40–41, Hackesche Höfe/Hof V | Mitte homeonearth.com
Am Springebruch 14b Schöneberg johanenlies.com
J&V VINTAGE FURNITURE
Ackerstrasse 19 Mitte nutsandwoods.de
Barbarossastrasse 61 Schöneberg jandv.eu
Brunnenstrasse 169 Mitte objects.com
Blumenthalstrasse 7 Schöneberg danielheer.com
Strausberger Platz 8 Friedrichshain coroto.de
Goltzstrasse 13 Schöneberg the-goods.de
MC BOGY instagram.com/mcbogy46 40k followers
Where else can one find you in the city? I always say: West Berlin is my
living room, but you can also find me on the Eastside. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m always hanging where the cool guys are. Read the full interview online at berlinfashionweek.com
WELLBEING RYOKO Friedelstrasse 11 Neukรถlln ryoko-berlin.com
SPIRIT YOGA MITTE Rosenthaler Strasse 37 Mitte spirityoga.de
GLOWY BEAUTY BAR
Alte Schönhauser Strasse 48 Mitte aesop.com
Rochstrasse 17 Mitte glowybeautybar.com
JOHN & JANES SOULBASE
Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 28 Mitte breathe-cosmetics.com
Rosenthaler Strasse 63 Mitte johnandjanes.com
Alte Schönhauser Strasse 26 Mitte lelabofragrances.com
Charlottenstrasse 35 Mitte gentlemens-circle.com
DODO’S BLOW DRY BAR Rosenthaler Strasse 66 Mitte dodosblowdrybar.de
Almstadtstrasse 5 Mitte atelier-oblique.com
Soho House Berlin Torstrasse 1 | Prenzlauer Berg sohohouseberlin.com
HAUT & SEIN
Mulackstrasse 32 Mitte hautundsein.de
Gethsemanestrasse 1 Prenzlauer Berg beardy-boys.de
POOL HOTEL ODERBERGER
Brunnenstrasse 29, Hof III Mitte jivamuktiberlin.de
Oderberger Strasse 57 Prenzlauer Berg hotel-oderberger.berlin
SAINT CHARLES APOTHEKE
© Theresa Lange
The exceptionally stylish SAINT CHARLES APOTHEKE, located on Pariser Strasse, is not only a pharmacy that sells natural products, but also one that addresses all parts of the human body and brings together both modern and traditional remedies. In addition to well-known house specialities based on the teaching of traditional European medicine, it also offers luxurious natural cosmetics, rare organic fragrances, select herbal liqueurs, useful micro-nutrients and a hideaway in the Hofgarten for biological treatments. Pariser Strasse 20 Charlottenburg saint-charles.eu/berlin
TREAT BEAUTY LOFT
Schönhauser Allee 55 Prenzlauer Berg treatbeautyloft.com
Karlsruher Strasse 20 Charlottenburg aspria.com
Bleibtreustrasse 32 Charlottenburg urbanscents.de
BELLE REBELLE Bleibtreustrasse 42 Charlottenburg bellerebelle.de
Kurfürstendamm 193–194 Charlottenburg diptyqueparis.eu
Seydlitzstrasse 6 Tiergarten vabali.de
HOLMES PLACE Discover HOLMES PLACE’s complete spa, fitness and lifestyle concept at six different locations in Berlin. Stop by HOLMES PLACE Potsdamer Platz after a long day and relax in the luxurious spa area, or head to one of our other five Berlin clubs where you can work up a sweat on state-of-the-art cardio machines, at functional fitness classes on rigs or weight training. Why not also enjoy a few lengths in one of our fabulous pools? Gabriele-Tergit-Promenade 17a–d Tiergarten holmesplace.de
BECYCLE BECYCLE is Berlin‘s answer to Flywheel: the 45-minute spinning classes are set to thumping hiphop, house and pure pop beats. Barre, HIIT and yoga classes help s trengthen and elongate the muscles needed for cycling. The cosy lounge invites W iFi-seeking freelancers and athletes to linger and kick back, to consciously refuel their batteries, and grab an organic snack or smoothie from the adjacent MY G OODNESS café. Brunnenstrasse 24 Mitte becycle.de
Rosenthaler Strasse 72a Mitte | by appointment aerscents.com
DR. BRONNER’S FLAGSHIP STORE
Heinrich-Roller-Strasse 23 Prenzlauer Berg nadineandres.de
PONY HÜTCHEN NEW
Straßburger Strasse 37 Prenzlauer Berg ponyhuetchen.com
Weinbergsweg 2 | Mitte drbronner.de/berlin
Steinstrasse 17 Mitte wheadon.de
ZINS – ORGANIC HAIRECARE SALON
Thomasstrasse 59 | Neukölln zins-ohcs.com
MERME BERLIN mermeberlin.com
WELLBEING / MINDFUL
LOVELY DAY HEINRICH BARTH
Emser Strasse 126 Neukölln lovelyday.de
FINE Knaackstrasse 26 Prenzlauer Berg mdc-cosmetic.de
ONLINE STORES AMAZINGY
Bötzowstrasse 24 Prenzlauer Berg schoenerie.de
SERO instagram.com/sero__baby 8,9k follower
Where can people find you in Berlin today? I’m a real creature of habit.
You’ll always find me in the same five or six streets and cafes. For meetings I’ll occasionally venture out of Schöneberg, but I’m very attached to the “kiez”.
Read the full interview online at berlinfashionweek.com
EATING THE NONAME
International Oranienburger Strasse 32 Mitte the-noname.de
TO THE BONE Italian Torstrasse 96 Mitte tothebone.bonita.berlin
KWA – KEBAP WITH ATTITUDE NEW
TORBAR International Torstrasse 183 Mitte torbar-berlin.de
Turkish Gipsstrasse 2 | Mitte eatkwa.de
International Französische Strasse 47 Mitte borchardt-restaurant.de
Vietnamese Rosenthaler Strasse 62 Mitte districtmot.com
CHIGAGO WILLIAMS BBQ
American Hannoversche Strasse 2 Mitte chicagowilliamsbbq.de
Thai Chausseestrasse 5 Mitte nithanthai.de
UDON & GYOZA
International Friedrichstrasse 105b Mitte grillroyal.com
Asian Alte Schönhauser Strasse 7–8 Mitte
AL CONTADINO SOTTO LE STELLE
Japanese Gipsstrasse 3 Mitte kuchi.de
BANDOL SUR MER
International Auguststrasse 11–13 Mitte paulysaal.com
French Torstrasse 167 Mitte bandolsurmer.de
Italian Auguststrasse 36 | Mitte alcontadino.eu
Italian Torstrasse 1 Mitte cecconisberlin.com
German Potsdamer Strasse 91 Mitte oh-panama.com
Vietnamese Torstrasse 134 Mitte dudu-berlin.de
Oyster Bar Brunnenstrasse 182 Mitte fb.me/volkmitte
MURET LA BARBA
Italian Rosenthaler Strasse 61 Mitte muretlabarba.de
International Hirtenstrasse 4 Mitte the-grand-berlin.com
Vietnamese Rosenthaler Strasse 13 Mitte chenche-berlin.de
Chinese Brunnenstrasse 167 Mitte fb.me/thetree.berlin
Italian Alte Schönhauser Strasse 12 Mitte maedchenitaliener.de
International Torstrasse 183 Mitte themroc-berlin.de
International Oranienburger Strasse 32 Heckmann-Höfe | Mitte nightkitchenberlin.com
German Torstrasse 99 Mitte peterpaul.berlin
3 MINUTES SUR MER
Italian/American Torstrasse 173 Mitte noto-berlin.com
French Torstrasse 167 Mitte 3minutessurmer.de
International Herrfurthplatz 14 Neukölln selig.berlin
The word CHOTTO comes from the Japanese meaning ‘small’. The same can be said for our Izakaya tapas. Since it has more than five meanings, however, it can also mean ‘a lot’ or ‘large’, and therefore perfectly describes our ramen bowls, Maki & Udon. For over 12 years now our sushi chef has been honing his craft and we were lucky enough to engage a true master from Sapporo for our ramen, who has been preparing delicious soups for over 30 years. Japanese Kollwitzstrasse 84 Prenzlauer Berg chottoberlin.weebly.com
© Philipp Obkircher
SELIG is located in a magnificent building next to a church in the heart of Schillerkiez. Crafted oak tables invite people for a delicious brunch, lunch, or dinner. SELIG collaborates with local producers like the Berlin startup Infarm to create an innovative cuisine that is as tasty as it is sustainable. The spacious terrace on piazza Herrfurthplatz is a great spot to enjoy cold drinks on a hot summer night and watch the locals.
NOM NOM BERLIN
Why is there not really any type of food that makes our serotonin levels go through the roof while also being made from good, healthy ingredients? NOM NOM BERLIN is the answer, proving that fresh and healthy food doesn’t mean having to miss out on tasty deliciousness. Every Itsy Bit, NomNom or Bowl is turned into a little work of art by employing fine-dining techniques, without the inflated prices. We look forward to seeing you soon! Asian Fusion Schönhauser Allee 44 Prenzlauer Berg nomnom-berlin.de
SIMSIM – a homey Levantine eatery serving authentic dishes, both traditional and modern, in a laid-back contemporary setting. At SIMSIM, guests experience true Levantine culture which is embedded in warmth and hospitality. Expect fresh and hearty food that is tailored to suit everyone no matter the occasion. SIMSIM bridges the gap between authenticity and modernity; preserving ancient traditions while pursuing innovative techniques. Levantine Eatery Husemannstrasse 1 Prenzlauer Berg simsim-restaurant.de
Korean Torstrasse 179 Mitte coreen-restaurant.de
International Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42/43 Kreuzberg spindler-berlin.net
International Friedrichstrasse 158 Mitte crackersberlin.com
Italian Grimmstrasse 30 | Kreuzberg facebook.com/il-Casolare149494278455735
Korean Oranienstrasse 16 Kreuzberg angry-chicken.com
LAYLA BY MEIR ADONI Israeli Hallesche Strasse 10 Kreuzberg layla-restaurant.com
International Kรถpenicker Strasse 174 Kreuzberg restaurant-richard.de
Thai Gryphiusstrasse 10 Friedrichshain khaotaan.com
Asian inspired Rudi-Dutschke-Strasse 26 Kreuzberg tim-raue.com
Cuisine of the Alps Simplonstrasse 16 Friedrichshain schneeweiss-berlin.de
SALE E TABACCHI
RAMEN X RAMEN
Italian Rudi-Dutschke-Strasse 24 Kreuzberg sale-e-tabacchi.de
Japanese Gabriel-Max-Strasse 2 Friedrichshain fb.me/ramenxramen
THE BIRD American Am Falkplatz 5 Prenzlauer Berg thebirdinberlin.com
Chinese/Peruvian/Cypriot Karl-Marx-Strasse 55 Neukölln paolopinkel.berlin
International Pappelallee 29 Prenzlauer Berg mrsrobinsons.de
International Weserstrasse 32 Neukölln beusterbar.com
Italian Templiner Strasse 7 Prenzlauer Berg standard-berlin.de
International Okerstrasse 2 Neukölln barraberlin.com
German Schönhauser Allee 8 Prenzlauer Berg fleischerei-berlin.com
CODA Dessert Dining Friedelstrasse 47 Neukölln coda-berlin.com
French Am Spreebord 9 Charlottenburg barbrass.de
Korean Fehrbelliner Strasse 4 Prenzlauer Berg choiberlin.de
International Uhlandstrasse 172 Charlottenburg cell.restaurant
BLEND This cosmopolitan city pulsates with a vibrant, eclectic creative scene that seamlessly blends with an entrepreneurial spirit. BLEND kitchen and bar celebrates the soul of Berlin with its innovative Melting Pot cuisine concept. Here, chef Steffen Sinzinger and his team take dining to the next level with an exciting synthesis of flavors, cultures and cuisines. Cementing its status as an almost revolutionary experience. International Budapester Strasse 25 Charlottenburg restaurant-blend.com
BOUJEE is a new restaurant serving upmarket fusion cuisine. Core focus: Italian fine dining! In our open kitchen we create meals that appeal to the senses. Some of the dishes on our menu come with a side serving of entertainment for physical wellbeing. We are sophisticated, yet unquestionably modern. Our premises resemble a dark, industrial-style loft, infused with heady elegance. We offer you a warm welcome to BOUJEE. Italian Pariser Strasse 18a Charlottenburg boujee.de
BRASSERIE COLETTE TIM RAUE BRASSERIE COLETTE TIM RAUE is located at 5–7 Passauer Strasse, directly opposite KaDeWe, and is open both at lunchtime (Mon–Sun, 12–3pm) and in the evening (Mon–Sun, 6–11pm). The menu offers classical French brasserie cuisine featuring all Tim Raue’s typical gastronomic hallmarks with regard to aroma and presentation. The interior is characterised by classical brasserie elements paired with contemporary design. French Passauer Strasse 5–7 Schöneberg brasseriecolette.de
DAE MON In the contemporary restaurant, with its modern design and art-decked walls, guests can indulge their senses and enjoy the finer things in life – octopus with rhubarb, asparagus with melon, or tartare topped with summer truffle. The dishes are playful and an essential part of the culinary experience of central Berlin. Why not pay us a visit! (Lunchtime 12.00–14.30, Dinner 18.30–23.00) Korean/Japanese/European Monbijouplatz 11 Mitte dae-mon.com
Asian Schlüterstrasse 22–23 Charlottenburg ngokimpak.de
French Kantstrasse 152 Charlottenburg parisbar.net
Greek Motzstrasse 76 Schöneberg spentzas.business.site
TOMMI’S BURGER JOINT
TO BEEF OR NOT TO BEEF
American Kurfürstendamm 212 Charlottenburg burgerjoint.de
Italian Akazienstrasse 3 Schöneberg tobeefornottobeef.bonita.berlin
Asian/European Kurfürstendamm 25 Charlottenburg grace-berlin.com
Syrian Potsdamer Strasse 153 Schöneberg fb.me/malakeh.restaurant
PRISM European/Levantine Fritschestrasse 48 Charlottenburg prismberlin.de
Japanese Kantstrasse 135 Charlottenburg 893ryotei.de
Thai Lützowstrasse 81 Tiergarten kindeeberlin.com
Italian Meinekestrasse 19 Charlottenburg www.minerestaurant.de
Japanese Potsdamer Strasse 85 Tiergarten sticksnsushi.com
EATING / MINDFUL
International Behrenstrasse 55 Mitte cookiescream.com
Indochinese Sonntagstrasse 8 Friedrichshain umami-restaurants.de
International Bergstrasse 22 Mitte katzorange.com
International Linienstrasse 160 Mitte lokal-berlin.blogspot.com
NOBELHART & SCHMUTZIG
International Torstrasse 199 Mitte friedelrichter.de
International Friedrichstrasse 218 Kreuzberg nobelhartundschmutzig.com
International Friedrichstrasse 120 Mitte pantry-berlin.com
International Linienstrasse 94 Mitte kopps-berlin.de
International Hannoversche Strasse 1 Mitte einsunternull.com
European Kollwitzstrasse 54 Prenzlauer Berg lucky-leek.com
International Torstrasse 179 Mitte gaertnerei-berlin.com
International Gerichtstrasse 54 Wedding ernstberlin.de
FRAUENARZT instagram.com/frauenarzt 50,6k followers
Where’s the best pizza in Berlin? I only eat Margherita pizza and like the one from Il Casolare in Kreuzberg. There’s also a little place in Tempelhof where I like to go, but I’m keeping that one to myself. Read the full interview online at berlinfashionweek.com
CAFÃ&#x2030;S & DELIS
Invalidenstrasse 112 Mitte thebarn.de
Münzstrasse 8 Mitte oliv-cafe.de
Münzstrasse 21 Mitte fathercarpenter.com
HOUSE OF SMALL WONDER
Auguststrasse 50 Mitte milchhalle.com
Johannisstrasse 20 Mitte houseofsmallwonder.de
WHAT DO YOU FANCY LOVE
Linienstrasse 41 Mitte whatdoyoufancylove.de
Auguststrasse 69 Mitte kw-berlin.de
Alte Schönhauser Strasse 14 Mitte fiveelephant.com
Weinbergsweg 5 Mitte cafe-fleury.eatbu.com
Auguststrasse 11–13 Mitte moggmogg.com
Weinmeisterstrasse 9a Mitte kaffeemitte.de
FACTORY GIRL Auguststrasse 29 Mitte factorygirl.net
Torstrasse 114 Mitte fechtner-delikatessen.de
Tempelhofer Ufer 1 Kreuzberg hallescheshaus.com
CAFÉS & DELIS
Rosenthaler Strasse 1 Mitte commongrnd.de
NO FIRE NO GLORY NO FIRE NO GLORY: speciality coffee and the best breakfast in Prenzlauer Berg. Our coffee has to be mature, hand-harvested and directly traded. It is roasted in small drum roasters by micro-roasters. In our cappuccino we use Demeter organic milk from the eco-village of Brodowin; all cakes are home-made; and we offer brunch with avo-toast, eggs Benedict and pancakes until 5pm.
CAFÉS & DELIS
Rykestrasse 45 Prenzlauer Berg nofirenoglory.de
Maybachufer 8 Kreuzberg brammibalsdonuts.de
Pannierstrasse 64 Neukölln roamers.cc
Oranienstrasse 24 Kreuzberg companioncoffee.com
Hermannstrasse 37 Neukölln fb.me/Islacoffeeberlin
Sonnenallee 27 Neukölln camoncoffee.de
Pflügerstrasse 68 Neukölln okay-cafe.com
Jonasstrasse 23 Neukölln athomeberlin.com
GROSZ Kurfürstendamm 193/194 Charlottenburg grosz-berlin.de
Prenzlauer Berg ALLAN’S BREAKFAST CLUB
Rykestrasse 13 Prenzlauer Berg fb.me/allansbreakfastclub
Schlüterstrasse 36 Charlottenburg setsberlin.de
GIRO COFFEE BAR
Kollwitzstrasse 83 Prenzlauer Berg cafe-anna-blume.de
Knesebeckstrasse 5 Charlottenburg girocoffeebar.de
CAFÉ LIEBLING Raumer Strasse 36a Prenzlauer Berg fb.me/cafeliebling.berlin
ROCKET & BASIL
Knaackstrasse 26 Prenzlauer Berg fb.me/bettyncaty
Lützowstrasse 22 Schöneberg rocketandbasil.com
Dunckerstrasse 2 Prenzlauer Berg suicidesue.com
Kurfürstenstrasse 58 Schöneberg cafeeinstein.com
Akazienstrasse 28 Schöneberg goodies-deli.com
THE VISIT COFFEE
Uhlandstrasse 49 Charlottenburg benedict-breakfast.de
Goltzstrasse 39 Schöneberg visit-coffee.com
CAFÉS & DELIS
SUPERFOOD & ORGANIC LIQUIDS SUPERFOODS & ORGANIC LIQUIDS ‘Modern’, ‘vegan’, ‘gluten-free’these are the buzzwords behind the superfood stores opened by Julia Puestow and Julian Liebich, which boast timeless, youthful design. The entrepreneurs pick up on themes of ‘organic’ and ‘sustainable’, but express these in a modern way. They appeal to a young, urban audience who are keen to integrate fresh healthy eating into their routine. Superfoods’ stores are located at Schlüterstrasse, Berlin-Charlottenburg, Weinbergsweg and Friedrichstrasse in Berlin-Mitte. Schlüterstrasse 37 Charlottenburg superfoodsberlin.com
After seven successful years at Le Feaubourg Felix Mielke, the expert in modern haute cuisine, has sought out a new challenge and opened an upmarket diner: at SCHÜSSELDIENST he brings together sustainability and the pinnacle of flavour. On the menu is “Green Salad”, which combines avocado, superfoods like quinoa, green spelt, wild rice, cucumber, spinach, pecan nuts and a yoghurt and sesame dressing to create a real taste adventure; or beef ribs served with sweet potatoes, chilli and herbs. Akazienstrasse 3a Schöneberg schüsseldienst-berlin.de
Oranienburger Strasse 7 Mitte maloa.com
Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 5 Mitte good-bank.de
Almstadtstrasse 9–11 Mitte theklubkitchen.com
ZEIT FÜR BROT
BEETS & ROOTS
Weinbergsweg 2 Mitte zeitfuerbrot.com
Große Hamburger Strasse 38 Mitte beetsandroots.de
THE STORE KITCHEN
Weinbergsweg 3 Mitte daluma.de
Soho House Berlin Torstrasse 1 | Mitte thestores.com/berlin
Rosenthaler Strasse 23 Mitte funkyounaturalfood.com
Torstrasse 116–118 Mitte hermanns.com
HALLMANN & KLEE
Brunnenstrasse 24 Mitte mygoodnessberlin.com
Böhmische Strasse 13 Neukölln hallmann-klee.de
Alte Schönhauser Strasse 44 Mitte lapokebowls.com
Weserstrasse 166 Neukölln fortunastable.com
CAFÉS & DELIS / MINDFUL
Torstrasse 180 Mitte frea.de
LOS ANGELES COLD PRESS Niebuhrstrasse 11 Charlottenburg lacoldpress.com
Wörther Strasse 22 Prenzlauer Berg tenzan-lab.com
YOLI FROZEN YOGHURT
Münzstrasse 11c Mitte yoli-berlin.de
Stargarder Strasse 73 Prenzlauer Berg hokey-pokey.de
TRIBECA ICE CREAM
Oranienburger Strasse 84 Mitte paulmoehring.de
Rykestrasse 40 Prenzlauer Berg tribecaicecream.com
CUORE DI VETRO
Max-Beer-Strasse 33 Mitte cuoredivetro.berlin
Stargader Strasse 72 Prenzlauer Berg liquidgarden.berlin
WOOP WOOP ICECREAM
THE JUICERY Eberswalder Strasse 2 Prenzlauer Berg thejuiceryberlin.com
Rosenthaler Strasse 3 | Mitte woopwoopicecream.de
BJUICE Metzer Strasse 10 Prenzlauer Berg bjuice.de
Friedrichshain PALETAS BERLIN
Wühlischstrasse 26 Friedrichshain paletas-berlin.com
Hufelandstrasse 21 Prenzlauer Berg fruchtbar-berlin.de
ROSA CANINA Ackerstrasse 174 Mitte rosacanina.eu
DRINKING BARRY BAR Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 20 Mitte fb.me/barrydiskobar
DRAYTON BAR Behrenstrasse 55 Mitte draytonberlin.com
Brunnenstrasse 10 Mitte kim-bar.com
Schiffbauerdamm 11 Mitte tausendberlin.com
Novalisstrasse 2 Mitte melodynelson.de
PAULY SAAL BAR
Krausnickstrasse 1 Mitte fb.me/hellomrsusan
Auguststrasse 11–13 Mitte paulysaal.com
Mittelstrasse 1 Mitte fb.me/bar.Freundschaft
Hirtenstrasse 4 Mitte the-grand-berlin.com
BAR SAINT JEAN
Steinstrasse 21 Mitte barsaintjean.com
Auguststrasse 43 Mitte bar.hotel-amano.com
BUCK & BRECK
Torstrasse 133 Mitte bonbonbar.de
Brunnenstrasse 177 Mitte buckandbreck.com
Torstrasse 230 Mitte fb.me/bravobar
Novalisstrasse 11 Mitte cms.reingold.de
Schönhauser Allee 187 Mitte bertaberlin.com
Brunnenstrasse 196 Mitte sharliecheenbar.berlin
Friedrichstrasse 158 Mitte crackersberlin.com
KITTY CHENG BAR
Torstrasse 99 Mitte kittycheng.de
Alexanderstrasse 7 Mitte weekendclub.berlin
NEUE ODESSA BAR Torstrasse 89 Mitte neueodessabar.de
THE COVEN BAR
Kleine Präsidentenstrasse 3 Mitte thecovenberlin.com
Skalitzer Strasse 133 Kreuzberg fahimibar.de
Kleine Präsidentenstrasse 4 Mitte theliberate.com
Obentrautstrasse 19–21 Kreuzberg gretchen-club.de
Linienstrasse 41 Mitte instagram.com/altbau_berlin
Eichenstrasse 4 Kreuzberg arena.berlin
Torstrasse 225 Mitte lust-bar.com
Skalitzer Strasse 64 Kreuzberg kantine-kohlmann.de
Weydingerstrasse 20 Mitte
Dresdener Strasse 122 Kreuzberg wuergeengel.de
BAR MILANO BAR MILANO is the classic Italian aperitivo bar in the heart of Berlin. Here you can enjoy the real Negroni or Spritz combined with delicious homemade finger food in the stylish, new, classic bar. The cool Italian team will make you feel like you’re living la dolce vita in Milano. Enjoy the Italian way of life. Brunnenstrasse 11 Mitte barmilanoberlin.com
SOLAR SOLAR has been Berlin‘s viewing platform for creatives and visionaries since 2005. The menu presents outstanding classics and fresh creations with regional ingredients from mostly organic sources. SOLAR offers enjoyment for all the senses. An insider‘s tip: awaiting you just one flight up the spiral staircase, on the 17th floor, is the Sky Lounge with its spectacular 270° view. Art and design spread across three floors – from Berlin‘s only DJ elevator through to urban art. Stresemannstrasse 76 Kreuzberg solarberlin.com
NO FIRE NO GLORY NO FIRE NO GLORY: speciality coffee and the best breakfast in Prenzlauer Berg. Our coffee has to be mature, hand-harvested and directly traded. It is roasted in small drum roasters by micro-roasters. In our cappuccino we use Demeter organic milk from the eco-village of Brodowin; all cakes are home-made; and we offer brunch with avo-toast, eggs Benedict and pancakes until 5pm. Rykestrasse 45 Prenzlauer Berg nofirenoglory.de
ROOFTOP HOTEL ZOO BERLIN The prettiest roof terrace in Berlin: the ROOFTOP of HOTEL ZOO BERLIN. Tasteful, chic, summery laid-back elegance â&#x20AC;&#x201C; here, too, the design follows the unmistakeable and unique signature of the US American interiors architect Dayna Lee. KurfĂźrstendamm 25 Charlottenburg hotelzoo.de
IPSE Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2b Kreuzberg fb.me/ipse.offline
Skalitzer Strasse 135 Kreuzberg palomabar.de
Karl-Marx-Strasse 66 Neukölln klunkerkranich.de
Weserstrasse 42 Neukölln tier.bar
Holzmarktstrasse 25 Friedrichshain holzmarkt.com
Ganghoferstrasse 1 Neukölln velvet-bar-berlin.de
Holzmarktstrasse 25 Friedrichshain katerblau.de
Boddinstrasse 57a Neukölln fb.me/twinpigsbar
SALON ZUR WILDEN RENATE
Alt Stralau 70 Friedrichshain renate.cc
Sonnenallee 221 Neukölln griessmuehle.de
HAUBENTAUCHER Revaler Strasse 99 Friedrichshain haubentaucher.berlin
SOHO HOUSE BERLIN
Mühlenstrasse 1 | Friedrichshain mercedes-platz.de/rooftop/ 260grad
Private Members Club Torstrasse 1 | Prenzlauer Berg sohohouseberlin.com
SORSI E MORSI Marienburger Strasse 10 Prenzlauer Berg sorsiemorsi.de
Tiergarten VICTORIA BAR
Wisbyer Strasse 1 Prenzlauer Berg lammbar.de
Potsdamer Strasse 102 Tiergarten victoriabar.de
Heidestrasse 50 Tiergarten traumabarundkino.de
CAFE AM NEUEN SEE
Budapester Strasse 40 Charlottenburg monkeybarberlin.de
Lichtensteinallee 2 Tiergarten cafeamneuensee.de
GRACE ROOFTOP Kurfürstendamm 25 Charlottenburg grace-berlin.com
An den Treptowers 10 Treptow else.tv
CLUB DER VISIONÄRE
Lützowplatz 7 Schöneberg luetzow-bar.de
Am Flutgraben Alt-Treptow clubdervisionaere.com
Potsdamer Strasse 91 Schöneberg oh-panama.com/de/tiger_bar
Hauptstrasse 15 Treptow sisyphos-berlin.net
NURA instagram.com/nura 397k followers
Where do you hang out in Berlin? I don’t really hang outside anymore, but prefer to chill with friends at home on the sofa. When I go out to party, it’s for the music – and that’s at the Sisyphos, the Kater, or Berghain. Of course it’s cliché, but I really like those places. There are no cameras, nobody is allowed to take pictures, which makes it very pleasant. Read the full interview online at berlinfashionweek.com
Nollendorfplatz 2 Schรถneberg gaijinhotel.com
PROVOCATEUR Brandenburgische Strasse 21 Mitte provocateur-hotel.com
Französische Strasse 30 Mitte titanic.com.tr
Köpenicker Strasse 80–82 Mitte de.cataloniaberlinmitte.com
Invalidenstrasse 101 Mitte gardenliving.de
CROWNE PLAZA BERLIN
GRAND HYATT BERLIN
Hallesche Strasse 10 Mitte ihg.com/crowneplaza
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2 Mitte berlin.grand.hyatt.com
Weinbergsweg 25 Mitte gorkiapartments.com
Mohrenstrasse 30 Mitte hiltonhotels.de
HOTEL ADLON KEMPINSKI
Auguststrasse 43 Mitte amanogroup.de/hotel-amano
Unter den Linden 77 Mitte kempinski.com
HOTEL BERLIN, BERLIN
Weinmeisterstrasse 2 Mitte the-weinmeister.com
Lützowplatz 17 Mitte hotel-berlin.de
HOTEL DE ROME
Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 9–13 Mitte lux-eleven.com
Behrenstrasse 37 Mitte roccofortehotels.com
HOTEL AMO BY AMANO Friedrichstrasse 113 Mitte amanogroup.de/amo
GRIMM’S HOTEL POTSDAMER PLATZ Located in the heart of the park at Gleisdreieck is the elegant and urban 3-star Superior GRIMM’S HOTEL, only 5 minutes’ walk from PREMIUM. Individually designed, fairytale-like motifs form a unique symbiosis with modern design. Fairytale dreams come true here, thanks to the 110 rooms, including six imperial suites; an exclusive fitness area and sauna with roof terrace; as well as the inhouse restaurant with direct access to the park. Grimm’s Hotel Flottwellstrasse 45 Kreuzberg grimms-hotel.de
HOTEL ZOO BERLIN Refusing to play it safe, the visionaries of HOTEL ZOO BERLIN infused a 1920s building with daring new qualities befitting a contemporary star on one of the world’s grandest stages. Spacious rooms and suites feature custom-built furniture and a bold bohemian spirit, while the restaurant and lounge serve sophisticated, avant-garde cuisine and classic cocktails amid renowned DJs. In short, welcome the leader of cool in Berlin’s revived City West neighborhood. Kurfürstendamm 25 Charlottenburg hotelzoo.de
TITANIC COMFORT MITTE
Elisabeth-Mara-Strasse 4 Mitte titanic.com.tr
Stralauer Allee 3 Friedrichshain nhow-berlin.com
TANNHAUS APARTMENTS Brunnenstrasse 125 Mitte-Wedding tannhaus.com
Torstrasse 1 Prenzlauer Berg sohohouseberlin.com
SOHO HOUSE BERLIN
Oranienstrasse 40 Kreuzberg orania.berlin
Oderberger Strasse 57 Prenzlauer Berg hotel-oderberger.berlin
HOTEL THE YARD Alexandrinenstrasse 125 Kreuzberg hotel-theyard.berlin
MAX BROWN KU’DAMM
Wilhelmstrasse 7 Kreuzberg vilhelm7.de
Uhlandstrasse 49 Charlottenburg maxbrownhotels.com
Budapester Strasse 40 Charlottenburg 25hours-hotels.com
Friedrichshain MICHELBERGER HOTEL
Warschauer Strasse 39–40 Friedrichshain michelbergerhotel.com
Meinekestrasse 9 Charlottenburg henri-hotels.com
HOTEL AM STEINPLATZ
Steinplatz 4 Charlottenburg hotelsteinplatz.com
Potsdamer Strasse 76 Tiergarten quentinxl.com
HOTEL BRISTOL BERLIN
GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADE
Kurfürstendamm 27 Charlottenburg bristolberlin.com
Lützowufer 15 Tiergarten esplanade.de
Kantstrasse 144 Charlottenburg sirhotels.com
Potsdamer Platz 3 Tiergarten ritzcarlton.com
PATRICK HELLMANN SCHLOSSHOTEL Brahmsstrasse 10 | Charlottenburg schlosshotelberlin.com
Schöneberg ELLINGTON HOTEL BERLIN
Nürnberger Strasse 50–55 Schöneberg ellington-hotel.com
Potsdamer Strasse 67 Tiergarten guldsmedenhotels.com
Boxhagener Strasse 83 Friedrichshain almodovarhotel.de
SO/BERLIN DAS STUE
THE CIRCUS HOTEL
Drakestrasse 1 Tiergarten das-stue.com
Rosenthaler Strasse 1 Mitte circus-berlin.de
Gartenstr. 4, 10115 Berlin www.clickundsurr.de
Foto: Gene Schulten
GET AROUND PUBLIC TRANSPORT Get around with bus, tram, U-Bahn, S-Bahn or train fahrinfo.bvg.de
UBEEQOO (rent from 1 hour) start.ubeeqo.com
TAXI BERLIN www.taxi-berlin.de
SCOOTER TO GO scooter2go.de
SIXT CARSHARING sixt.de
DEUTSCHE BAHN BIKE callabike-interaktiv.de
SWAPFIETS swapfiets.de (bike subscription)
DEEZER NEXTBIKE deezernextbike.de/de/berlin
LIDL – CALL A BIKE
DONKEY REPUBLIC donkey.bike
BERLIN MOBIL APP
STATION 10963 Berlin GmbH Luckenwalder Strasse 4 –6 10963 Berlin premiumexhibitions.com
Lena Brombacher, Christine Zeine
ART DIRECTION Sonnenstaub – Büro für Gestaltung und Illustration sonnenstaub.com
COVER Rap City Berlin: Nura, MC Bogy, Frauenarzt, Sero Photographer: Maxime Ballesteros Styling: Tali Quindio Location: Sneakersnstuff Berlin
PRINTING Wagemann Medien GmbH wagemann-medien.de
FKK CLUB BERLIN OPENING HOURS Mo. - Fr. 11.00 AM - 05.00 AM Sa. - Su. 11.00 AM - 05.00 AM +49 30 8904440 www.fkk-artemis.de HalenseestraÃ&#x;e 32-36 10711 Berlin
FRIEDRICHSTRASSE 76 – 78 S-BAHN FRANZÖSISCHE STR./STADTMITTE FRIEDRICHSTRASSE FACEBOOK GALERIESLAFAYETTE.DE GALERIESLAFAYETTEBERLIN
MONDAY THROUGH SATURDAY FROM 10 AM TO 8 PM