Photographer: Becky Siegel Hair and Makeup: Valentina Gretsova Model: Stephanie Knight
contents table of
BEST OF BEAUTYLOOKERS WE’VE SPRINKLED THIS ISSUE FROM COVER TO COVER WITH OUR FAVORITE BEAUTY WORK FROM READER SUBMISSIONS
Keep an eye on our web site, fan page or twitter for announcements about how you can have your work featured in upcoming issues of Beautylook Magazine www.beautylookmagazine.com facebook.com/beautylookmagazine Twitter: @beautylookmag Submissions: email@example.com
TOMASZ KORNAS (PHOTOGRAPHER) SHANNEN DONOHUE (MODEL) MELISSA CLARKE (MAKEUP)
COVER IMAGE: BARRY DRUXMAN (PHOTOGRAPHY) ELEANA BUGAEVA (MODEL) KAY MATTHEWS (HAIR & MAKEUP)
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articles IN FOCUS EDITOR’S RANT PAGE 06
INDUSTRY INSIDER PHOEBE DAWSON PAGE 08
BEAUTY KITCHEN HEATHER MARIANNA PAGE 12
BARRRY DRUXMAN FEATURED PHOTOGRAPHER PAGE 14
EUGENE CONDE FEATURED MAKEUP ARTIST PAGE 34
MAKEUP & BEAUTY PAGES 20-31
ROLE:MODEL JAX TURYNA PAGE 46
MAINTAIN YOUR MANE SABRINA DIGIOVANNI PAGE 48
FRESH FACES FEATURED TALENT PAGE 54
INFOCUS THE EDITOR’S RANT
FOUND ON FACEBOOK Editor Jim spends WAAAAAY too much time on Facebook. It’s one of those love/hate kinds of things. A pretty blonde model I know convinced me years ago that I absolutely NEED to be on Facebook, if only to stay connected with the reality of the 18-26 year old generation with whom I work every day. When I first signed up on the world’s most-visited website… I hated it. Everyone likes/loves everything/everyone online and the true meaning of “love” had lost it’s value, in my opinion. Facebook frustrated me because things weren’t where I wanted them to be, or they didn't work how I wanted them to work. And just when I’d figured it all out… they’d throw us a curve a change everything to keep us endlessly clicking and using and clicking. Out of frustration, I deleted my first Facebook profile and then a few weeks later begrudgingly set up a new one. Four years later, I’ve adapted and most of my business revolves around Facebook now. In fact, while I’ve insisted since day one that BeautyLook always exist in the real world and in print - truth is, the online components receive much more attention. The instant gratification of reaching out to thousands of people, instantly, is a form of power that is difficult to deny. And only a fool would not embrace it. The original vision behind BeautyLook was to create and feature only our own, original content: articles, interviews, long-winded tutorials and pictorial features. And this of course is a denial of the reality that we currently live in. The Facebook generation doesn’t always delve deeper than a newsfeed rolling by and occasionally hitting the like button. And how can I find fault in that? In my role as editor, I have been overwhelmed by constant streams of new submissions coming in. I’ve become that cliché movie mogul who has 10 seconds to look at a script on his desk and give it the green light, or pass on it. And our fans are just as overwhelmed by their own private Facebook information-overload as well. So…. We’ve tried to strike a balance between original and unoriginal content to bridge the gaps between major print magazines and blogs and Facebook. We’ve settled into regular weekly features like Makeup Mondays and Fashion Fridays. Our Model Madness Monday turned into one of the most-viewed days on our website. And every now and then, we mess with the equation so you don’t get bored with us. One of the most popular features has always been re-posting inspirational quotes and images we find on Facbeook. I’m continually amazed by how just a few well-said words, set to the right image, can affect the mood of masses of people. The pen (and the post) are mightier than the sword and Facebook has definitely changed my opinions as a result. The wheel does not always need to be re-invented when someone out there has already said and done it better.
We’ve re-posted quite a few inspirational quotes since BeautyLook began, but two in particular have always struck a chord with me:
POSITIVE THINGS HAPPEN TO POSITIVE PEOPLE This quote is so simplestupid, and yet it’s logic is irrefutable. Birds of a feather flock together. Like begets like. We can never be happy or successful until we think and act successful.
FEAR IS A LIAR At first, this quote didn’t impress me much. But then it’s sort of the polar opposite of the quote above, and it requires more effort to think it through. It’s inspiring, but in a lessobvious way. More of a wake up call to the reasons we give ourselves to fail: fear of success, fear of failure, and fear of the unknown. In our industry, I run across so much self-doubt and defeatism. It’s easier to find excuses to give up rather than work hard and succeed. I joke that 50 percent of new models talk themselves out of modeling before their very first photo shoot. And 80 percent of those who don’t, rarely make it past shoot number one. The image to the right is an excellent example of what I’m getting at with this article. By my own confession, I really didn’t feel like shooting that day. After 3,000+ looks, it’s difficult for me to find photographic inspiration every day. Been there... shot that already. And yet… I’m still addicted and fascinated and I keep finding excuses to shoot more. (Nod your head if you know what I mean.) So I pressed on and we ended up having a great shoot that day and more importantly, WE had one of the most fun shoots in years. So here we are at the end of Winter and the start of Spring. It’s a time when those of us in the colder climates have been hibernating and become de-motivated. Last year’s roster of models and photographers loses a lot of names and once you stop that momentum, it’s so much harder to get it back. Damn near impossible, actually. The trick is to just kick yourself in the butt and always keep moving forward... even when you don’t want to. It's that simple. But then, why re-invent the wheel and write this longwinded Editor’s Rant at all when Woody Allen has already said it best:
“80% of success is just showing up.” Onward and upward, Jim Jurica, BeautyLook Editor-in-Chief
Model: Jax Turyna Photography: Jim Jurica Makeup & Hair: Becky Smith
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Photographer: Wes Klain
PHOEBE DAWSON Makeup Artist
Artistic ability, mixed with humility and gratitude seem to be a winning recipe for makeup artist Phoebe Dawson,. This Industry Insider is fortunate to be living her dream each and every day and we chatted with her about a little of everything from rouge to red carpets... Hi Phoebe. Please tell us a little about your background in the industry, and how you got into the world of makeup artistry. I am originally from a very small beach town in New Zealand called Nelson, and I decided at around 13 years old that I wanted to be a makeup artist and move to Hollywood. I never took school seriously and knew I wasn’t learning anything I could use in the future; I’ve always hated rules and structure and doing the same thing a few days in a row, and always loved freedom, nature, arts & breaking the rules. So I left high school early, got the highest paid job I could find—which happened to be working in a fish factory from 5pm-1am, full-time, for 6 months so I could save money for my dreams. I also cleaned hotel rooms on the weekends early in the morning. (My amazing Dad matched what I saved and paid half of my Makeup School tuition!)
My first two years in LA, I assisted some amazingly talented celebrity makeup artists very closely and learned so much from them, while waitressing at nights, testing and doing small jobs of my own. The last two years I have been freelancing full-time, have worked on the most amazing jobs, and have been flown to Vegas, New York, Seattle and soon Nashville for work. You cover a lot of bases in your work, from film and music videos to fashion events and more. Do you have a favorite type of work, or a specialty among those? I LOVE the variety and travel opportunities I get from all the jobs I work on. I’m literally working in a new location I’ve never ever been to once a week. I would die of boredom if I was doing the same thing or going to the same place everyday. I have always wanted to live life to the fullest and see as much of the world as I can in my lifetime. I really don’t know if I could narrow it down to my favorite type, but working with musicians is probably the most moving to me! Dancers and singers inspire me beyond words and to be a part of that creation or music video is amazing! We like to say that you’re nobody in film these days until you're listed on IMDB. Have you found IMDB credits to have any effect on makeup artist careers and opportunities? Yes I think having an impressive resume or having recognizable credits is very important. If you are looking someone up online and they have no credits to
Then at 17 years old I moved to Australia to go to makeup school, because it was a lot closer and more affordable than LA. I think I gave my parents about a month or two notice that I was moving. Thank God they support my crazy dreams! Then, I went to The Makeup Technicians in Sydney Australia for a year. I also worked full-time while in school to pay my bills, and organized work experience & photo-shoots in my spare time, and didn’t sleep much. Then I decided I wanted to move to LA. I didn’t know how it was possible, if I could afford it, didn’t know a single person, or how to drive (let alone on the other side of the road). But soon after I turned 19 years old I made the move. Just me and two suitcases.
their name, or just some short films, it shows they have little to no experience. And that is a much bigger risk than hiring someone with some great credits that you can trust who knows what they are doing and how to be on set. It also says a lot about where they are in their career. Everyone wants to be published. How can a makeup artist make the big leap from bridal to film or print work? Test, test, test!! Test with lots of photographers, lookup, research and contact photographers whose work you love. Print is very different from bridal, so you want to build up a solid portfolio with test shoots at first, then from testing you will learn about what looks good, lighting etc. (Testing is where everyone does the shoot for trade, so they can have pictures for their portfolio. so you get a team together of a photographer, hair stylist, makeup artist, model & stylist.) Collect pictures from magazines of editorials you love and create shoots that are inspired by the work you hope to do in the future. Practice a lot! How do you keep up with the constant change in looks and styles passing by in this industry Yes I am always looking for inspiration everywhere; I am obsessed with beauty. I love to read blogs, follow other artists on Instagram, read the latest fashion magazines, keep up with what's happening on fashion week ,the Oscars, award shows etc. Then, I think its important to take what I want from that and use my own creativity and ideas for what ever I am working on. What looks good on a supermodel might not work for everyone. No two faces are ever alike. Most makeup artists I speak with tell me the leastfavorite part of their job is: cleaning up afterwards. Have you found any ways to simplify this task and make it less time-consuming? Honestly, I feel so blessed to do this, and to clean up really doesn’t take long at all and I actually enjoy sitting with my makeup, cleaning it and organizing it! I’ve dedicated my life thus far to this dream, how could I possibly complain? But advice for making it less time consuming is to keep very organized. If you love being clean and organized, its really easy.
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Is there a must-have product (or products) you highly recommend or just can't work without? So, so many!!! I recently got the Naked Palette by Urban Decay, which I am loving right now: lashes I couldn’t live without, and they make the biggest difference. MUFE HD foundation. The Beauty Blender, Lucas Pawpaw ointment, MUFE coral blush, Lorac eye shadows, Inglot products and many, many more. What's trending on the runway and red carpet scene today, and where do you see those makeup looks headed in the near future? Well I personally love the smoky eyes with a nude lip look. I saw a lot of that at the award shows with really flawless skin. Winged liner is still happening a lot. Peachy cheeks, bright lips with a natural eye, a lot of sculpting and contouring. Also makeup brands are getting a lot more crazy and creative with lashes, colors, pigments, lip tattoos etc, nail art, and I’m sure that will keep expanding for a while. Who knows what’s possible!
Photographer: Wes Klain
Are there (or have there been) any makeup trends that in your opinion, just don't look good?
I've never been a fan of the darker, obvious lip-liner with a lighter lipstick, un-plucked eye brows, tattooed on makeup, and going over board with dark eyes and lips. I like to make either eyes or lips pop (not both). Many of our readers are brand new models who do their own makeup for their first photo shoots. And often, I see them struggle on their eyes with anything beyond the basic eyeliner or clumpy mascara. Without giving away all your trade secrets: are there any special makeup tips you can share with these frustrated models, to create a more dramatic eye? The best thing they can do is go on YouTube because there and thousands of absolutely amazing videos showing you how to do makeup and hair. Then you find one great video, then another and it gets very addicting! There are also some great tutorials on Pinterest, and on www.thebeautydept.com (I used to assist the amazing makeup artist Amy Nadine who does the makeup tutorials a lot and she is awesome!) I could explain through writing, but I think if people look up the videos, blogs, and tutorials it will be much easier for them to learn. There are also many great blogs and even people on Instagram with picture tutorials.
Then keep practicing! On the business side of things, is there any hard-earned wisdom and advice you're willing to share with new makeup artists just starting out? Your mindset is very important: never stop growing, practicing and learning new skills. If we don’t grow, we die, I believe. Do things that scare you, it will change your life! And practice a lot!! Have a clear vision of where you want to go and figure out what you have to do to get there. Study people you admire. Give every job your best 100%. I highly recommend assisting when you start out, you will learn more than you ever will in school!
“I fear not the man who has practiced 10,000 kicks once, but I fear the man who has practiced one kick 10,000 times.” - Bruce Lee
You've added workshops to your list of credentials. Tell us a little about your events: what attendees are learning, and how we can go about finding more information. I was the head tutor for some classes, teaching up to 70 everyday women how to apply makeup & style their hair like the stars. I also have been a judge for Miss Teen USA, spoke a few times at MUD Makeup School, and at a young girls community in East LA. I don’t know when my next speaking opportunity will be but I at the moment, I am focusing on my entertainment clients and going with the flow of what comes. Watch this space! Are there any parting words you would like to share with our readers, and your fans? Anything is possible! Chase your dreams and you can have anything you desire in life, if you are willing to do whatever it takes to make it happen! I hope you enjoyed my interview, and I would love to hear from you and connect with you! Love yourself and never try to be, or look, like anyone else because there will never be another you. Celebrate your beauty with makeup and clothes that make you feel amazing because when you feel beautiful, you will be. Find Phoebe on Twitter & Instagram as @phoebemakeup or email phoebe.dawson.gmail.com Photographer: Matt Brown / Model: Deidre C Lee
THEBEAUTYKITCHEN with Heather Marianna
You don’t have to fly to a tropical
PLACE to get a tropical
Anguilla, Thailand, and even Miami Beach… are all well known for their amazing spas and spa treatments. However, flying all over the world to spas and being pampered just doesn’t work for the everyday woman. In this month’s Beauty Kitchen article you will be taken to three spas, in three countries, and learn three amazing spa treatments that you can do in your very own beauty kitchen.
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is well-known not only for their amazing spa, but
also the ancient Mayan lime, sugar and honey scrub that is an essential part of their treatment rooms. Body scrubs provide gentle exfoliation, and it is very important to exfoliate on a regular basis during cold weather. You only need three ingredients to recreate this treatment the Beauty Kitchen way: 4 tablespoons honey, 1 tablespoon sugar, one lime juiced. Mix all of your ingredients together and massage them into your skin, rinse with water, and dry. You can also make a larger container of this scrub and keep in your bath or shower.
The Four Seasons resort in Costa Rica… is not only beautiful but is well known for their volcanic clay treatments. Volcanic clay used at this spa is found in the nearby Osa Peninsula in Costa Rica, but lucky for you can also find really great volcanic clays at your local whole foods or even by doing a quick Google search. Volcanic clay is a simple and easy mask you can do anytime, as often as you like, and only takes two key ingredients. Volcanic clay masks leave your skin toned, pull out excess oils, toxins and restore your skin to a natural glow. To create this mask all you do is mix one part volcanic clay (as much as you need for face and body) and one part avocado oil. Mix together and brush on, leave on for thirty minutes and rinse off in the bath or shower.
This last recipe isn’t from one particular spa, it is found in
several spas all over the world where hot temperatures
and sunburns often go hand in hand. The hot summer cucumber mask will not only help in reducing the stinging of a bad sunburn, but will also help you cool off on the beach of your favorite vacation spot. Cucumbers are a natural astringent and antiinflammatory, so this mask tightens your skin and like a mini facial, will diminish wrinkles and soften your skin. All you need is 1 small cucumber, 2 tablespoons milk, 1 teaspoon honey, several teaspoons crushed ice, and a few drops of orange juice. Cut the cucumber into small pieces and place them into a blender. Add milk, honey and orange juice, and blend until smooth and creamy - not runny. Smooth all over your face and neck, leave it on for 15 minutes, and then wipe off with a damp towel.
No wt wo h rld at yo it u art icle ’s tim hav e sto to yo for e trav re a you ele ur Bea nd ge local to ta d the ke he t He uty ath Kitc your v alth f this and er M ood aria hen ery c you an be nna o g w i s tub oin e a seen o the C g! n rea nd n the www tor of Las .h Ve eath Beau ga s M erma ty Kitc ri orn ing anna hen .t Ble nd. v,
Food Images: Jim Jurica
The Kinan Spa at Maroma Resort and Spa in Riviera Maya, Mexico…
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For those unfamiliar with
the gorgeous beauty
work of Los Angeles photographer Barry Druxman, we like to refer to him as “The man who everyone copies on ModelMayhem.com.”
slicked-back wet hair, rising from a pool of cerulean water has been duplicated countless times by And by his own admission, Barry himself
has re-shot that image numerous times with different faces, at the request of his clients. Such is the nature of
downplayed your own contributions and stressed the importance of the beauty pros and stylists who are working with you behind the scenes. What do you provides the artistic direction for the looks being shot? I’ve always felt that the photographer is the least important part of the equation. Wardrobe designers spend weeks or months creating a gown, hairstylists and makeup artists spend an average of 2 hours creating something for me to shoot, and all I do is set up a light and click the shutter a few times.
Barry insists the spotlight stay focused on the beauty pros who work with him behind the scenes.
speaking to him directly, he would have us believe he has been at the craft too long and only picks up his camera to pay the bills. But don't let him fool you - there is nothing in his work to suggest anything less than a passion for his work and the subjects he's capturing.
look for in a makeup artist or hair stylist? And who
Barry's iconic image of a beautiful blonde model,
The fact that he and his teams can
create such vibrant, meticulously styled imagery, and capture that in 12 shots or less - is just icing on the cake and shows a true mastery of the craft. It's not for no reason that Barry's work graces the cover of this issue of BeautyLook Magazine.
You're best known for your beauty work, and for fashion.
Do you work in other genres, like men's
landscapes? I’ve shot a little “Glam”, however, I don’t think I’m very good at it. How do you handle clients who show you an image from a magazine and say, "Make me look like this!" If it’s realistic, I do my best. If it’s not realistic, I tell the so.
Barry's boxing background shows through in the directness of his words. When asked about his recent relocation from the Seattle area to Los Angeles and if this was a necessary evil, his response was, "I wish I'd moved here 30 years ago." And our long-winded questions about the negative impacts of imageediting on model photography were met with a blunt reply: "The end result is the photograph."
How has the unreality of digital image editing (and client's
affected actor head shots, model portfolios, or even celebrity photo shoots? Actors headshots have to be pretty honest, unless it’s a celebrity, then you can lie a lot. My goal with a model in post production is to make her as beautiful as possible.
He’s definitely not one to mince words.
It's unusual to see a photographer who prefers to How long have you been a photographer Barry, and what was your inspiration to get started in the photography business? I’ve been shooting for about 30 years. women are my inspiration
keep his images un-watermarked on the Internet. Is there a philosophy behind this? Have you run into copyright or usage issues as a result? I believe a watermark ruins the art of an image. The most money I ever made on an image is one that was stolen and run in a magazine.
You've mentioned taking the "Rule of 12" approach to your working methods. Please explain what this means to our readers. And has digital technology impacted that number or your work methods? Before digital photography, when I shot with a medium format camera, there were only 12 shots on a roll of film. We were expected to “get” the shot with each roll of film. I still attempt to limit each look I shoot to about 12 shots. You mentor photographers through private sessions and classes. Is there any one piece of advice that you are willing share with new, aspiring talent looking to get into beauty and fashion photography? I almost always use a single light for beauty images and shoot at f-16 to f20 After so many years in the business, what keeps you inspired and motivated? I try to make every shoot better than the last. I’m motivated by photographers that are better than I am. I’m always trying to improve.
The photographer is the leastimportant part of the image.” Barry Druxman
Image Credits Barry Druxman - Photography Kay Matthews - Hair & Makeup Models: Chanel Dawson (Oranges) Elena Bugaeva (this page) www.druxmanphotography.com www.modelmayhem.com/2484
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more. And each time I steadily grew. Fortunately, each time I have had a new challenge I have always learned how to meet that challenge... just in the nick of time. Have you come across any issues, being a man working in a female-dominated industry? I have never heard that being a specific gender makes a difference in the quality of work. I think the quality of my work and my reputation has opened many doors for me. I have worked in almost all areas that a makeup artist can work. I have worked for television shows, films, music videos, commercials, fashion shows, and weddings. I love doing all types of makeup. How much creative freedom are you granted at photo shoots? Do you make the artistic makeup decisions? My creativity varies. Sometimes the director or photographer wants makeup done in a very specific way, and sometime I am asked to be as creative as I can be. I have a tendency to be more edgy and avant-garde. But I try to control myself so that I don't go beyond what directors and photographers want. Barry Druxman is a great photographer and I am so lucky to be his on his team. He will often give me the full creative range from hair styling to makeup. The only words I usually hear from him is: do what ever you want as long its beauty, and not a painting. From there on he does the shoot and the final post-production. Any favorite makeup trends for 2013?
EUGENE CONDE Makeup Artist, Hairstylist Los Angeles California www.eugeneconde.com
How did you get started in the makeup industry? I got started in makeup by accident. I was 15 years old and in a 9th grade English class when my classmates asked me to direct a small classroom play. Even though I was supposed to just be the director, I felt responsible to for the entire production. The play had two actors. One was supposed to be a 25 years old high-fashion model and the other 60 years old. No one in my class had any experience applying makeup and we didn't have time to get store-bought make up anyhow. Therefore, I came up with some quick ideas: I made blue eyeliner from blue-green confetti, blush and lipstick from red confetti, and lip-gloss from petroleum jelly. I used a black marker and drew crowsfeet and laugh lines. White powder was used to make pale skin and grey hair. We didn't have hairpins so I used string to wrap up one of the student actor’s hair to create a beehive hairstyle. The play went well and we got a standing ovation, not because of my hair and makeup - but for whole performance. Are you formally trained? Most of my training has been self-taught. Each time I have had a new challenge, I have had to teach myself a little
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I love the spring and summer trends. Red or fuchsia pink lipstick are my ultimate favorites. These trends are the most full of fun and they transform from pale to dewy into light and bright. What has been your biggest accomplishment? I’ve had the pleasure of working with some "A-List" Hollywood stars - but of course, I cannot name them. A second accomplishment has been working with some wonderful models and photographers and having our work be published in Vogue, Marie Claire, and Seventeen. I am thankful and honored to have been a part of all of these and of course, Beauty Look Magazine . Any beauty secrets you’d like to share with our readers? Your makeup is only as good as your skin; take care of it and moisturize as often as possible. Stop taking supplements. It's true the healthier you are, the healthier your skin and hair will be. But popping supplements without discussing them with your doctor can do more harm than good. Why? Because mixing certain vitamins and minerals can have the opposite effect of what you're hoping for. Talk to your doc before popping any pills. Any parting words you’d like to share with our readers, and your fans? Makeup artistry is just like any other art: you have to practice in able to do it well. There are very small amount of fine motor coordination which is required to apply correctly. A great concept, creativity and excellent fine-motor skills equal an excellent makeup artist.
Hair & Makeup: Eugene Conde, Photography: Barry Druxman Models: Elena Bugaeva (this page) Alexis Radzvilowicz (opposite page) 19
Over 60,000 hair stylists , salon owners and beauty industry professionals flocked to Chicago's McCormick Place convention center for three days of March Madness â€Ś salon style. And BeautyLook Magazine was there working the crowd. 2013 marked the 80th consecutive year of this industry -only event that features a little of everything and anything beauty-related. Beauty pilgrims come from far and wide to learn and see and shop from 400+ vendors who offer up everything from hair and makeup products to magazines and massage services. Like a three ring circus, there seemed to be always something going on in every direction, the color and movement and loud music only adding to the excitement levels. Headliners like "best blonder in the business" Kim Vo worked the crowd or main stages, while product lines hosted live demonstrations and events. Beautiful models where everywhere, showing off elaborate hair designs or sitting for a trim in front of audiences and others hawked product at booths. Speaking of booths, Emmy-winning makeup artist Kevin James Bennett was working the Royal & Langnickel Brush Company space, talking about the state-of-the-art [R]evolution Brush Collection he codeveloped with them. "The beauty industry has been
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very good to me," Kevin tells us, "so I'm always eager to help prepare the next generation of beauty professionals through sharing of knowledge and education. I understand that exhibitors at trade shows like ABS are there to make money, but I thought the major vendors did an amazing job of also offering continuous on-floor and off-floor education." We spoke with attendees and for some, the value was in learning. Educators like Jill Glaser of Makeup First Academy was one of the many pros who shared their wisdom off-stage in the myriad workshops and classes. We saw a wide range of topics discussed, from hair and makeup technique or new product demonstrations to better business practices. For others, the real draw was in shopping or testing new products and tools. "I bargained with sales people, trying to make the most of my money...some it worked with and some it did not," says hair stylist Cassie Malenda, who came from Appleton, Wisconsin for all three days of the show. "I like to see before I buy....and make a really good decision based on many factors."
SPRING IS IN THE AIR
Heavy Brow Statement Lip
And color is everywhere. We sat in on Makeup First Academy’s Spring Trends class in Chicago to report the musthave looks for this season. Students sat for live demonstration of makeup technique by academy founder Jill Glaser, who stepped us through creating four different trends.
WHATS HOT... STATEMENT LIPS: No room for the timid with these looks. Bold reds, bright pinks and metallic purples remind us that spring is about vibrant COLOR.
Statement Lip Grungy Smokey Eye
COLORED GRAPHIC EYE LINER: Speaking of color… floating graphic liner in a variety of hues will be in style. But why settle for just one when two or three different colors will do nicely? How much this look makes it’s way from the runways to the streets… only time will tell.
Nude Lip Colored Graphic Liner
SCULPTED FACES: Contouring is a great way to accentuate and reshape your face, and Spring looks will kick that up a notch with extreme contrast. Forget about plastic surgery and save your money… lean to contour your face instead. GRUNGY SMOKY EYE: Smoky eyes seems to never go out of style, they just vary from year to year. Spring 2013 will see a return to the “lived in” look of Courtney Love and Kate Moss. BIG BROWS: Spring will see a departure from thin or drawn-on eyebrows to more natural shapes and even full-figured brows.
WHAT’S NOT... Colored Graphic Liner Sculpted Face
EMERALD GREEN: While many magazines are declaring Pantone 175641as color of the year, Jill insists turquoise will be making a bigger splash this season.
Do It Yourself:
BIG BROW KNOW-HOW
Heavy, sculpted eye brows may be the trend walking runways this Spring. But the look is a bit heavy-handed for everyday street wear. So we had professional hair and makeup artist Genell Banks take a lighter approach with our model, Becca and show you how it’s done. The key to this look is to maintain and enhance the original, natural shape of your brows, not create a new shape with eyeliner pencil. Start with grooming. Ideally, the inside corner of your eyebrow will be in line with the inner corner of your eye. You may need to do a little “browscaping” if stray hairs have taken over. Plucking them with tweezers will do the trick, but if you’re squeamish you may want to look into threading or waxing, done by a pro. Next, brush your brows into shape by working from the middle, upward and outward. You can use a dedicated brow brush for this, but we’ve also seen plenty of makeup artists who use a clean mascara brush or toothbrush instead. If you have gaps in your eyebrows, these can be filled in with eye shadow that most closely matches your brow color. Most pros agree that eyeliner shouldn’t be used for this look, since it produces a less natural result. If you must use an eyeliner pencil, be sure to brush your brows again after applying. You can keep those brows looking good for hours by setting them in place. A brow brush covered with clear mascara or hair spray, and lightly applied will do the trick. 22 BEAUTYLOOK MAGAZINE
Credits: Genell Banks (Hair & Make up) Becca Tidaback (model) Jim Jurica (Photography &
HOW LONG SHOULD Unlike most other items that we put in or on our bodies, makeup is not regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), save for a few exceptions. Federal law requires that the ingredients used in cosmetics be listed, but does not require expiration dates. Some manufacturers police themselves and create their own expiration dates, but without regulation and enforcement of standards, there’s no way to guarantee accuracy. Why does makeup need an expiration date? Aside from the loss of quality, consistency or potency over time, the larger concern is bacterial and fungal growth. The FDA has shown in studies that bacteria exists in cosmetic products even before you open the package. These are minute amounts at that stage, but as soon as the package is opened it’s exposed to even more bacteria. Then contact with our hands, fingers and faces introduce all kinds of nasty stuff back into the makeup pot, jar or tube. Fortunately, most cosmetics have preservatives added which kill bacteria. Unfortunately, those preservatives lose their effectiveness over the lifespan of the product. Small
cosmetics shouldn’t concern a healthy immune system. But for people with non-intact skin issues (broken or inflamed skin) like cold sores or eczema… this opens up new vulnerability to infection. Bad reactions to old/ contaminated makeup range from minor or major skin irritations to conjunctivitis (“pink eye”). Environment can have a profound effect on the lifespan of a makeup product. Warm, humid environments like your bathroom are a tropical paradise for promoting bacterial growth. It’s always best to store your makeup elsewhere and to avoid humidity, heat and direct sunlight.
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HELPFUL TIPS: Wash your face and hands before applying makeup. Do NOT share your makeup with others Try using disposable applicators instead of using your fingers Wash your brushes regularly Don’t add water to liquid-based cosmetics. This introduces bacteria and dilutes the preservatives Store powder puffs with the used side away from the powder When in doubt… toss it out.
YOUR MAKEUP LAST? Cosmetics have a useful lifespan that varies by product type. We know you just hate to throw away those nice products you spent your hard-earned cash on. But as they get older, those lipsticks and eyeliners and other items run the risk of spreading bacterial infections. We’ve put together this handy list to remind you when it’s time to say out with the old, and in with the new. Experts all agree that mascara has the shortest lifespan of cosmetics, and runs the highest risk of bacterial infections. Replace your mascara frequently!
MASCARA: 2-3 MONTHS. LIQUID EYE LINER: 3-6 MONTHS CREAM-BASED PRODUCTS: 6-12 MONTHS CONCEALER: 1 year NAIL POLISH: 1 year FOUNDATION (WATER-BASED): 12 months FOUNDATION (OIL-BASED): 18 months POWDERS: 2 years
Cosmetics Images: Jim Jurica
LIPSTICKS: 2 years EYE SHADOW: 2 years PENCIL EYE-LINER: 2 years, sharpen regularly PENCIL LIP LINER: 2 years, sharpen regularly
CLEAN BRUSHES FOR FRESH FACES Jill Glaser, Makeup First Academy Once you have acquired makeup brushes, you will want to make sure that you keep your brushes clean and sanitized. By doing so, you will not only prolong the life of your brushes but also reduce the risk of cross-contamination. Cosmetic brushes, particularly those used with cream-based makeup products, may result in the transfer of bacteria and other contaminants. The makeup may not be the only source of contamination; skin cells and body oils will remain on brushes if not properly cleaned and sanitized. Failure to properly clean and sanitize the brushes may likely result in the growth of contaminants that result in bacterial, fungal or other infections. Those brushes will spread contaminants to other faces if not properly cleaned and sanitized. Consumer-use brushes (those who use their brushes only on themselves) may require nothing more than a weekly gentle wash of baby shampoo mixed with water. The shampoo should be diluted with water on a 1 to 1 ratio, and then thoroughly rinsed with water before placing the brushes out to dry. To dry the brushes, the excess water may be removed with a paper towel, or squeezed out with clean fingers, and then reshaped. The brushes should then be placed over the edge of a counter to air-dry. By so doing, the brushes will dry faster and, since they will not be sitting on a wet surface, there will be a decrease in the likelihood of promoting the growth of mildew. If the brush has lost its shape, or the bristles are frayed or breaking off, nothing will truly restore the shape of the brush; at that point, the brush should simply be tossed and replaced. Professional makeup artists are trained to clean and sanitize their brushes between each client use. It is important that the cleanser also contain a sanitizer such as alcohol, which is very drying to the bristles. The makeup artists select a pro brush cleaner that not only contains alcohol, but also contains a conditioner to keep the bristles soft as well as sanitized. Brushes consist of a handle, a ferrel and the brush hairs. Regardless of whether you are a pro makeup artist or a consumer, be sure to avoid getting the cleanser into the ferrel. In time, if the ferrel is subjected to wetness, the glue holding the ferrel to the handle will break down and the brush will lose its handle. At that point, once again, it is time to toss the brush. For more info on brush cleaning (and other topics) please visit the makeupfirstschool channel on YouTube.
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Embrace Your True Beauty with Angeli Ortega Laizure Ladies! Are you tired of doing the same old thing, and are you ready to just get out of that same old makeup rut? No matter what your skin color is, whether you want Business Classy to Flirtatious Fun, these step-by-step tricks will lead you toward feeling wonderful in your own skin. Step 1: Clean, Moisturize and Prime. Starting with a fresh, clean face, using a foundation brush, apply a moisturizer to the face, preferably one with SPF 15. If you chose, using the same foundation brush, apply a face primer. Generally a face primer is used to fill in large pores, blend uneven skin textures, and/or to hide wrinkles, thus giving the appearance of smooth skin. In this scenario, I did not see a need to use a face primer on my model. Step 2: Conceal and Balance. Using a small concealer or foundation brush, apply a concealer that is lighter than your base face color. When applying, focus on any and all dark spots, to include any red spots, as the goal is to lighten the darker areas for corrective blending later. A little goes a long way, and it's alright if there are very few, or many spots that need to be covered. Regardless of skin color, each and everyone has high and low spots on their face, and naturally these spots can draw in more light than others; some people reference to the lighter spots as "sun spots." Step 3: Match and Blend. Using a foundation brush, apply the foundation to the entire face and feather it down the neck. Match the base skin tone with a foundation that will blend well with the concealer that has already been applied. In this scenario, I chose to use a foundation skin tint creme. Remember, while applying the foundation, your goal is to create the perfectly even and balanced canvas, so keep in mind that the neck and body must match. As enchanting as the Geisha is, this is not the effect we are going for. Step 4: Set. Using a large powder brush, apply a translucent setting powder. Apply to the entire face. I recommend to stay away from tinted powders, as they tend to be heavier and can create a "caked on" or "dry" appearance. Step 5: Shape and Fill. Using an angled brush, fill in both brows with a powder that resembles the hair color. Remember to follow your natural brow bone; start from the inside of each brow, and work your way toward the outside. An actual eyebrow powder can be used, or a matte eye shadow. Pencil or powder is truly dependent upon preference. I prefer to use a powder, as I feel that I can control the lightness and darkness with much more of an ease, thus determining how natural or extreme I want to go. Either way, remember that the brows are key to completing a balanced face; go light if you must, but shaped brows are quite the necessity to a harmonious face. Step 6: Neutral Base. Using a blending brush, apply a neutral eye shadow, nearly identical to the skin tone. Apply the neutral base color from lash line to the brow. Do this on both eyes. Step 7: Create Depth. Using a crease brush, apply a slightly darker shadow, focusing on the outer corner of the eye, and working it into the crease, moving toward the inner corner. Notice that there is a slight sideways "v" as this is done. This will create depth. Do this on both eyes. Step 8: Brighten. Using a large blending brush, apply a light eye shadow, starting at the inner point of the eye, working toward the center of the eye. The light color works as a highlighter, which gives the appearance of opening up the eye. Do this on both eyes. Step 9: Blend. Using a small angled blending brush, blend the two colors, focusing on the crease. Step 10: Highlight. Using a large blending brush, apply a sheer white, or sheer off-white eye shadow on the brow bone, just below the brow. Blend well. Do this to both sides. Step 11: Lashes. Using tweezers, and lash glue, apply lashes to one eye. Lashes, along with the brows, are significantly important. Single or Band lashes will work. I highly recommend using the single flair lashes, as they look the most realistic, and they can be used for length and/or thickness. Band lashes are fun, however, when using them, if the eye is too large, the bandlash tends to be obvious, as the individual wearing them looks like they have several lashes missing toward the inner or outer corners of the eye. Note: Lash type is dependent upon preference; just remember to keep the faux lashes as close to the lash line as possible. Step 12: Contour Cheekbones. While waiting on your first eye to dry from Step 11, instead of keeping your eye closed, go ahead and start with the cheek bones. Using a blush brush, apply a slightly darker bronzer, tracing from the center of the cheek bone to the hairline, and up to the temple. This will give a slight shadow effect, which will give the appearance of a strong, shaped cheek bone. Using the same blush brush, apply blush from the front center of the cheek bone, and move toward the hairline. Once this is complete, using a large powder brush, blend the two slightly. Note: do not add setting powder to blend. Follow all of these steps on both sides.
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Step 13: Lashes and Mascara. Using tweezers, apply lashes to other eye, as done in Step 11. Once both sets of lashes are completely dry, using a mascara wand, apply mascara, both to the top and bottom of the lashes. Note: If the natural lashes seem to be too straight, and do not want to blend with the faux lashes, use an eyelash curler. In this scenario, it was unnecessary for me to curl my model's lashes. Step 14: Line and Shape. Using a lip pencil, line the outside of the lips, and then fill in the entire lip. The lip liner will help keep any lipstick on, and/or will slightly tint any lip gloss that may be added afterward. Step 15: Fill. Using a lip brush, apply the lipstick of choice. Again, fill in the entire lip. In this scenario, I chose a neutral lipstick, as I was playing off the eyes for a classy day look. Step 16: Clean Up and Perfect. Using your original foundation brush, apply a small amount of foundation to the brush, and trace around the lip line, making a clean and crisp lip line. Note: The foundation brush is a valuable tool, as it is the perfect eraser. If you make a mistake, just clean it up with the foundation brush. Step 17: Set. Using a large powder brush, apply translucent setting powder to the face and neck. Step 18: Congratulations! You are ready for Business. No one will second guess your professionalism. So, perhaps you like the classy day look, but now you've finished your day at the office, and now you want to grab a bite with some girlfriends and hit up the shopping strip. You're looking for some makeup that doesn't scream nighttime, but something that shows your slightly fun and flirty side. No problem! Check out the next couple of steps; you're already more than half way there! Step 19: Color and Blend. Using a wide blending brush, apply a bright orange/ coral shadow to the center of the eyelid, and work toward the outer corner. Blend well. Do this to both eyes. Note: as you apply these brighter colors, in order to retain more pigment, think of patting it into the lid, rather than just brushing it onto the lid. Step 20: Color and Blend. Using the same wide blending brush, apply a bright yellow to the inner corner of the eyelid, and work outward, toward the center. Blend well. Do this to both eyes. Step 21: Create Depth. Using a crease brush, apply a purple shadow, working from the outer corner of the eyelid, in the crease, toward the inner part of the eyelid. Blend well. Step 22: Highlight. Using a large blending brush, apply a sheer white, or sheer off-white eye shadow on the brow bone, just below the brow. Blend well. Do this to both sides. Step 23: Clean Up. Using a foundation brush, clean up any "droppage" that may have been left behind. Step 24: Color Lines. Using a small detail brush, apply bright yellow eye shadow from the inner corner of the bottom lid, to the mid center. Using the same small detail brush, apply orange/coral eye shadow from the outer corner, to the mid center of the bottom eyelid. Blend the two colors where they meet. Do this to both eyes. Step 25: Highlight. Using a small detail brush, apply a sheer white to the inner corner of the eye. Do this to both eyes. Again, this will open the eyes and give the appearance of larger eyes. Step 26: Conceal and Balance. Using a foundation brush, fill in the lips. Refer to Step 2 and 3. By creating the perfect canvas on the lips, it will allow for an overall balanced look. Step 27: Line and Fill. Using an orange/coral lip liner, line the lips and fill them in completely. Using a lip brush, apply an orange/coral lipstick on top of the liner, and finish with a sheer gloss. Step 28: Congratulations! You are now ready for an afternoon of Springtime fun in the sun! If you have any feedback, need further details, and/or if you have any beauty questions, please contact me at: www.aolprobeauty.com www.angeliortegalaizure.com www.facebook.com/AOL.ProBeauty
Credits: Ebony Patton (Model), Marianna Chambard (Photography) Nancy Chambard (Photographerâ€™s Assistant) An Le / Queen Nails (Nail Tech), Sherrie & Michael Moore / Extravagance
Do It Yourself:
BLUSHING BEAUTY Heavy, sculpted eye brows may be the trend walking runways this Spring. But the look is a bit heavy-handed for everyday street wear. So we had professional hair and makeup artist Genell Banks take a lighter approach with our model, Becca and show you how it’s done. The key to this look is to maintain and enhance the original, natural shape of your brows, not create a new shape with eyeliner pencil. Start with grooming. Ideally, the inside corner of your eyebrow will be in line with the inner corner of your eye. You may need to do a little “browscaping” if stray hairs have taken over. Plucking them with tweezers will do the trick, but if you’re squeamish you may want to look into threading or waxing, done by a pro. Next, brush your brows into shape by working from the middle, upward and outward. You can use a dedicated brow brush for this, but we’ve also seen plenty of makeup artists who use a clean mascara brush or toothbrush instead. If you have gaps in your eyebrows, these can be filled in with eye shadow that most closely matches your brow color. Most pros agree that eyeliner shouldn’t be used for this look, since it produces a less natural result. If you must use an eyeliner pencil, be sure to brush your brows again after applying. You can keep those brows looking good for hours by setting them in place. A brow brush covered with clear mascara or hair spray, and lightly applied will do the trick. 30 BEAUTYLOOK MAGAZINE
Credits: Becky Smith (Hair & Make up) Jax Turyna (model) Jim Jurica (Photography
Hair: Thomas Stoops Model: Emily Jo Hayes Accessory: Leona Ruby Makeup: Kouralea Nicole Photographer: FELS Photo and Retouch
Model: Hann Lindahl Makeup & Styling: Teresa Hagen Photography: Cadence Gamache 34 BEAUTYLOOK MAGAZINE
Photographer : Haliz Photography Model and Makeup Artist: Liz Lattimer 35
BESTOFBEAUTYLOOKERS 36 BEAUTYLOOK MAGAZINE
Hair: Sylvia Stankowski Makeup: Vanexa Yang Models: Emily Hayes, Darcey Nett Photography: Markiss Stone / Kiss Models 37
Photography: Posh Penny Makeup: Vella Roland Model: Amanda Campbell
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Model: Laura Marie Designer: Raquel Redmond Photographer: Ty Franzoni
Model YecDanny Bowen Photographer: FELS Photo and Retouch Hair: Aurilla Goldsmith /AUriginal Designs Makeup: Kouralea Nicole Cosmetic Artist
P.A.: Joshua Breden Headpiece: Erin Leigh Pribyl Photography: Mike Wiesman Hair Makeup: Rachel Griesbach Wardrobe styling: Trisha Tovera-Baron
Model: Rachel Lackie Make-up: Louise Martino Model: Rachel Lackie Hair styling: Jessica Gamez Make-up: Louise Martino Photographer: Dominic Chow Hair Styling: Jessica Gamez Accessories provided by: Letrice Sealey Photographer: Dominic Chow Accessories Provided By: Letrice Sealey
NEEDS CREDITS AND HI-RES… SO DOES OPPOSITE PAGE
Model: Laura Marie Designer: Raquel Redmond Photographer: Ty Franzoni / ZoniPhoto 44 BEAUTYLOOK MAGAZINE
Model: Britney Cross Hair & MUA: Sylvia J, Stankowski Photographer: Brendan Carlson Photography 45
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Model: Winnie Angelo Makeup & Hair: Teague Vivolo Photography : Magdalena Niziol
ROLE model with Jax Turyna
SHOWS ON YOUR
The good or bad choices we make affect how we look. Sure, occasionally we all run on a little less sleep, or eat less than healthy, or drink a little more than we should on a night out. But after doing so, the results are obvious in the mirror the next day. A modelsâ€™ job is to always look her best and be in shoot-ready shape. Balancing your work and life becomes a key factor in a healthy lifestyle. For me it starts with the basics: getting my required amount of rest every night, drinking plenty of water and eating small nutritious meals throughout the day and exercising regularly. Think of your body as a machine, and what you put into it affects how it operates, and as a result - how you look. Itâ€™s easier to keep your body running smoothly though a healthy lifestyle, rather than try to fix it when it all breaks down. Your body needs time to rest and repair
itself, so it can continue to do all the little things you ask it to do all day, every day. Rest helps boost your immunity, your appearance and the way you think and are able to make decisions. A well-rested person outperforms a tired person both physically and mentally, and modeling needs you to be at your best in both
Photo: Jim Jurica
areas to be able to communicate an idea or feeling through the lens of a camera.
throughout the day keeps your body’s engine moving along and full of energy, and helps your brain to perform at its best. These are all important during a shoot and in regular life. But did you also know it helps to fight bloating? It is when we eat large meals all at once and then go long periods of time that we tend to get bloated. That is because our bodies are storing the excess calories from the big meal for later times of no food, and time this adds to excess fat in our stomach. Worse still, our metabolism slows down when our body knows it will go longer periods of time between meals. This makes us able to retain more calories from the meals we do eat, and makes us sluggish in an attempt to conserve calories. It’s much better to eat small meals throughout the day and keep your body running like a well-oiled engine. So plan ahead and carry healthy snacks with you to keep you going all day long.
Drinking plenty of water helps with
all the cellular activity going on within your body. Hydration (or dehydration) shows in your skin, so for the best complexion possible keep yourself hydrated throughout the day.
Drinking alcoholic beverages
adds unnecessary calories that your body really doesn't need to operate. Alcohol affects your nervous system and all other systems in your body. It slows your ability to metabolize food. And it has a dehydrating effect, throwing the water balance in your body in the wrong direction. For every alcoholic drink you consume, you should balance that with at least one (if not two) glasses of water to stay hydrated. It is that dehydration that shows up as facial issues. Dark circles, dry skin, acne breakouts; all can be aggravated by consuming too much alcoholic.
Another factor in the healthy
model lifestyle is exercise. Keeping all of our muscles strong and toned keeps you aging slower, your skin more glowing, and your body smoother and working at its best. Nothing beats exercise, so put it into your schedule
and treat it as important as any other career building appointment. Take the relatively small amount of time it requires to maintain your body and your body will take care of you.
Now what if we have done
all that we can do to lead a healthy life style, but our skin still isn’t what we would like it to be? Let’s face it: photo shoots can be tough on your skin and hair. The sometimes less-than - gentle products used can take really wreak havoc. So what can we do to help prevent and minimize the damage, so that on our next shoot we are looking as good as the first one? I have very sensitive skin, so I make sure that before a shoot that I cleansed my skin with a product that helps reduce my skin’s sensitivity. I personally use Dermalogica for sensitive skin, however there are many great products on the market; search for the one that works best for you and stick with it. I also make sure I apply my own barrier cream and moisturizer so that there is a product directly in contact with my skin that I know my skin can handle. After my shoots, I take off all the makeup as soon as possible. Never go to bed with shoot makeup (or any makeup) on your face! It can dry out your skin, and cause blackheads and create other skin problems. In addition to my home routine I schedule a professional facial once a month. Keep in mind that sometimes a facial can cause skin irritation, so make sure not to schedule a photo shoot right after getting a facial… best to wait for the next day to see the results.
Keeping your skin fed and
protected by living a healthy lifestyle (inside and out ) will keep you in the best condition possible and always ready for the camera. It’s important for everyone, But for a model a healthy lifestyle is the foundation of a healthy career.
Jax Turyna is a professional model and actress, blogger, and petite model advocate. For more of Jax, visit her website: www.theworldofjax.com
MANE By Sabrina DiGiovanni
There are a TON of things you can learn from working as a receptionist at a salon. I wasn’t totally clueless about hair when I started working at a Chicago-area hair salon…but pretty close to it. I really didn’t think that I would need to know almost just as much as the stylists do, but clients ask lots of questions when booking their appointments. A little over a year into it now, and I know more about the ins and outs of hair than I ever thought I would! I see it as “behind the scenes of hair care.” Thanks to keeping my ears open, the stylists have taught me many things that I want to share with all of you. One question that gets asked many times when clients are booking their appointments is, “how often should I get my hair trimmed?” And the simple answer would be: every 6 to 8 weeks. That time frame allows the hair to grow, yet it doesn’t allow too much time to pass that would cause an excessive amount of split ends, or the hair losing too much of its shape. But then nothing is ever a simple answer, right? I have noticed that clients with shorter hair tend to get haircuts more often. The shorter styles (chin-length, pixie cut, etc) grow out faster and lose their shape and style faster. If your hair is on the shorter side, then to maintain that style you may want to get it trimmed and shaped up more frequently, around every 4 to 5 weeks. If your hair reaches as far as your lower back (like mine) or past your shoulders, you can stretch your hair cuts out to every 7 – 8 weeks. Be careful, because split ends can form if you go too long without a trim. I’ve made the mistake of growing my hair out for months on end without getting even the slightest trim… and then ended up needing to have 4 or 5
inches cut off because my split ends were so bad! My hair ended up being shorter than I had expected, and it took twice as long to grow out. Not fun, for someone who is used to having long hair. It may take a few haircuts to notice how your hair grows and how your ends hold up to gain a routine. Ask your stylist how often they think you should come in for trims. After all, who else knows your hair better than you and your stylist? Since I work at a salon, it’s pretty convenient for me to get my hair done now and my stylist and I came up with a strategy: I try to get a trim every 7 weeks. TRY being the key word here. I know everyone has their own crazy schedules and I’ll admit, mine gets retty hectic too. If my ends get bad around 5 or 6 weeks we’re going to start “micro-trimming.” Translation: trimming off just the very ends that are the worst, and not doing a full-on haircut. That way I can take care of the ends to make sure they don’t split even more by the time I’m ready for a real cut. With hair… it’s a trial and error kind of thing until you find the best strategy. Who knew our hair can be so complicated? Until next time, keep it classy! Sabrina
Sabrina Digiovanni is an aspiring actress and model from suburban Chicago, as well as the BeautyLook fan page administrator. You can see more of Sabrina’s work at: http://www.facebook.com/ sabrina.digiovanni2
fabric the outfit is made with, or what inspired the designer to make that gorgeous skirt, pants or shirt that is
HISANDHERS A BRIEF HISTORY OF FASHION By WENDY EVENS
being displayed before them. Daydream with me or a moment: remember when you were (or maybe still are) in high school, and the subject of the last period on a Friday afternoon was History and the whole class moaned? Well, fashion isn’t like that. Fashion is so multidimensional and fun!
Fashion is in
movies, music, film and you see it all the time.
welcome to Fashion History 101…
Through the sands of time,
clothing has always followed two separate lines of development, resulting in two contrasting types of garment.
The most obvious line of division to modern
eyes is between male and female, his and hers, pants and skirts. The Greeks and Romans wore tunics, that is to say, skirts.
Mountain people like the Scots and the
modern Greeks also wear what are, in effect, skirts. Far Eastern and Near Eastern women have worn trousers, and many continue to do so today. We have ‘fitted’ and ‘draped’ clothes. History has shown many variations in this respect.
Dating back to
fashion girl Queen Cleopatra (late 68 BC), people and societies have used clothing and embellishments (belts, trim, buttons, zippers) to express their rank or even occupation. What you chose to wear on any particular day is communicating if you are wealthy, poor, sexually available, or to which
To be a good
you need to know what you are talking about
social class or group affiliation you belong.
communicated non-verbally; that is, the poor just always looked poor and the rich, well, they always wore the best, pressed clothes and looked… rich. Flash
Cleopatra, starring Dame Elizabeth Taylor, had the best
A great athlete has to know the rules of the game in
fashion of that period and won Best Costume Design at
order to perform and score points. A great make-up
the Academy Awards (nominated for nine categories,
artist has to know what each brush does, or how to
and won four). New York Fashion Week in Spring of 2009
achieve a certain look. And fashion is no different. To
was all about the gladiator sandal.
be a good fashion-insider (or Fashionista) you have to
created “Nefertiti-chic” hairstyles for his models, with the
know the history of fashion. The best magazine editors
straight bangs to match and Ralph Lauren evoked the
(who are seated front row at the runway shows around
snake charmer with jewelry.
the globe) already know this. They know what type of
Alberta Ferretti, took a Roman approach and utilized
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Other designers, such as
golden-winged breast plates over long, flowing white
have the skirt open in front to show decorative petticoats,
gowns; a look fit for an Egyptian goddess herself, (and
reminding me of the current Maxi dress).
replaced hoop skirts, which varied in size and quite often
prevented the person wearing it from sitting down.
(Reminds me of tight jeans when first they come out of the
comedy-drama film Marie Antoinette,
dryer!). The sleeves back then were very tight and
embellishments such as ruffles and separate under-ruffles
Coppola, won the Academy Award
made of lace or fine linen.
for Best Costume Design in 2006. That same year the film’s lead actress, Kirsten Dunst, graced the September
cover of American Vogue donned in
similar 18th century wardrobe.
And thankfully, so has
Marie Antoinette was
fashion. Or, has it? The women of the
royalty, and was truly the Haute Couture of modern fashion
1800’s had many wardrobe changes
in her day.
Antoinette was just 15 years old when she
on any given day, just as we do today.
married the future French king Louis XVI and yes, she
They had a morning dress, an evening
looked so much older with all of the clothing she had to
dress, a walking dress, or a carriage
dress. Don’t you throw a different pair of shoes or piece of clothing into your work or school bag
Women of that day had lots of clothes: day clothes, a
to change or add to your outfit before you go out for a
court dress, a coronation dress, and so on.
dressmaker and milliner, Rose Bertin (known to many as the
These are habits carried over from
“Minister of Fashion”) was renowned for making very ostentatious gowns which were not only colorful, but also
Men also had several types or styles of clothing, including
rich in decorations and made the ladies stand out and
“impose with their presence.” Her creations became so
coats, over coats, rain coats, suit coats and cutaway
popular all over Europe that they definitely helped with
coats. And as the world evolved, clothes became much
establishing France as the center of fashion and couture.
simpler. By the late 1800s men were saying good bye to
There were morning coats, day coats, walking
the pinched-in waists and padded shoulder jacket. The most popular dress styles of that era were the robe a la
Evening clothing usually still meant black, which is a very
Francaise and the robe a l’Anglaise (literally the dress of
popular trend today.
French and the dress of English). The first consisted of back pleats hanging loosely from the neckline all the way to the floor and “a very fitted bodice held the front of the gown closely to the figure.” It was very common at that time to
Because of the binding and rigid materials used. it often took more than one person to fit a ‘lady’ into a corset. The hoop skirt undergarment, for example, had one job and one job only: women wore it to elevate the many yards of skirt fabric just to be - you guessed it - fashionable.
Wendy Evens www.afashionableblog.blogspot.com
Watch I invite you to rent the movies “Cleopatra” (1963) and “Marie Antoinette” (2006) to see fashion history at its finest. You will see for yourself from where we have adopted many of our current styles that are used by fashion designers and worn by you today (leggings, for example).
Itâ€™s the official/unofficial 100th anniversary of the modern tee shirt and during that century of progress, the tee seems to have never ceased to grab our attention. Tank top, baby doll, crop-top, fife beater, tie dye... whatever you call them and whichever falvor floats your vee neck boat, there is one undeniable fact: the tee shirt is EVERYWHERE. Practical, comfortable, and highly-customizable, tees seem to fit everyone's lifestyle - to the tune of two billion of them sold worldwide every year. The humble origins of the tee shirt are not entirely clear, but we prefer the homespun legend involving the union suit. Rumor has it that in the late 1800s, people began cutting their one-piece undergarments into separates of long underwear bottoms and long-sleeved shirts. Cut the arms short for summer comfort and... voila! The tee shirt was born. The military were early adopters of the new shirt design, make tees regulation undergarments by 1913. Not so long after, they were commissioned by University of Southern California for football players who needed something lightweight but sweat-absorbing to wear under their uniforms. They were so coveted by students on campus that the administration began stamping "Property of USC" on them to prevent theft, and in the process created a Collegiate fashion trend that continues to this very day. The tee shirt became the de facto uniform of the American rural working class, and was standard Army and Navy issue during World War II. Post-war American youth culture carried on the tradition, and silver-screen rebels such as James Dean and Marlon Brando, and movies like West Side Story turned the white tee into an icon to to be admired, respected and feared. Flash forward ten years and tees had begun evolving from the plain vanilla crew neck to a variety of shapes and colors. Screen printing allowed mass production of shirts with logos and slogans on them. Tie Dye opened a whole new gamut of colors and options for embellishment. We saw the birth of the smily face, Che Guevarra shirts, company brands and more. Rebels still wore tees, but now they were on stage with rock stars and activists. And all in all... it was a good time to be a tee shirt. It could be argued that the average American IQ dropped a few points when tees with slogans like "I'm with Stoopid" and "My Parents went to Vegas and I got was this Lousy Tee Shirt" became popular fashion statements. But the 80s saw so much more that that, and re-invention with crop tops, neons and oversized tees worn over-the-shoulder, to slashed up-punk ronk rock tees and anti-drug propaganda slogans. Todays' cutting edge tees seem blast-from the past than progressive, revisiting old ideas but adding new twists: floral patterns, metal studs and ombre tie-dye designs. What goes around definitely comes around again, and we look forward to seeing the next step in tee shirt evolution. Article & Photo: Jim Jurica Model: Brittany Javers
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magician, and this is a brush not a wand!!" (just kidding!) I always respect my clients’ wishes but I want them to understand that everyone has different features. What might work for one model doesn't necessarily work for everyone. I will always make suggestions based on their particular look however in the end, I'll do what I can to exceed their expectations. Do you have any funny or interesting work-related stories you'd like to share? A few years ago, I was working for a haunted house (Fear City) applying Halloween makeup to the workers. Out of nowhere, a man stood in front of me asking, "Could you apply more blood to my body?" He was, well, quite big and wearing nothing but a diaper. I had to cover his entire body, and the worst part was: he had hair everywhere chest, back, and legs. Yuck!
How did you get started with makeup artistry, and working with models? It was back in December 2010. after my wedding plans and the big day were over I stopped for a second and thought: “What am I going do now?” So, I started to look at different classes that could eventually become a career. Having an artistic orientation since I was a kid, and being inspired by my bridal makeup artist, Rocio Armitage, I decided to go in that direction. That was how I ended up going to Makeup First School of Makeup Artistry in January 2011. At the end of that year, I worked for the first time with models at the Latino Fashion Week in Chicago. Along with that, the school has provided me with my first experiences in fashion shows, movies, and other events. Do you have a specialty or niche? I love fashion shows - there's a lot of energy and adrenaline. They remind me of when I used to perform in the past while growing up in Mexico (singing, acting, and dancing). Another interest of mine is avant-garde makeup. It gives me the opportunity to be creative and bring fantasy to reality. It is so much fun and there are no limits. Are there any favorite or must-have products you recommend? I try not to rely on one particular brand; I like to use different things, and whatever works for me, I stick with it. Some of my favorites are: Cinema Secrets Brush Cleaner, Cinema Secrets Face Primer, MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural, MAC 217 Blending Brush, Royal & Langnickel SILK PRO Eye Shader C411, INGLOT Face and Body Illuminator. What is your favorite part of the job? Least-favorite? My favorite part is the moment when a client looks into the mirror for the first time. The initial expression usually brings me great satisfaction. Without a doubt, my least favorite part is when a client is constantly trying to catch a glimpse in the mirror during the process. I just want her to relax and let me do my job - the final product will be worth the wait! What haven't you done yet as a makeup artist, but would like to?My main experiences have been with fashion shows, weddings, and short films. Because I view a lot of fashion magazines throughout a month, I would love to be involved in a print photo shoot and see my name on the credits. Another thing I want to experience is doing makeup for a celebrity. If you could see your work published in any magazine, which would that be? To have my work displayed in BeautyLook Magazine is an honor for me, since it's my first chance to be published. Of course, there are so many magazines I’d like to be a part of, but one that I find particularly interesting is Make-Up Artist Magazine. How do you deal with clients who show you a magazine and say, "Make me look like this!" The first thought in my head sometimes is, "I'm a makeup artist not a
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Although, I think I was rewarded a few weeks later at the Latin Fashion Week. I was assigned a couple male models (very sexy ones!). I remember thinking to myself that maybe I should tell them I need to feel out their face's bone structure before I apply makeup. I just wanted an excuse to keep them in my chair as long as possible. Please share a favorite quote:"If you can dream it, you can do it." - Walt Disney. Any special message you would like to share with our readers? Pursue your dreams and keep focused on your goals. Life throws a lot of moments at you that can easily sidetrack you. But if you strongly believe in something and you stick with it, it will always be worth the effort. I have to constantly remind myself of this because it has been a challenge to come to the United States and establish my name in such a big city. My goal is to be a well-known and respected makeup artist. I know it will happen. I believe this interview is a steppingstone toward that goal. Thank you very much. www.wix.com/malejonas/makeupartist Mount Prospect, IL Makeup: Male Jonas Photography: Angel Fotografia Fashion Consultant: Eduardo Ro Beauty Consultant: Rocio Armitage Model: Daniela Maldonado (top image) Model: Ana Gonzalez (this image)
Model: Christina Paul Photographer: Christy Elaine Hair & Makeup: Adri Tellez 3130 Makeup Artistry
How did you get started with makeup artistry, and working with models? I was in cosmetology school back in 2010 and became friends with a girl named Heather, and we both decided to get into it together. I learned in school that I prefered makeup over hair, which in turn, caused me to pursue makeup exclusively. I basically started working with models in Kentucky by doing fashion shows and networking. Do you have a specialty or niche? I would say my specialty is getting the skin to look as flawless as possible. I have a health condition which leaves lesions on my face and consequently scarring, so I have a lot of sympathy in that area. Are there any favorite or must-have products you recommend? I have to say I'm in love with Makeup Forever High Definition makeup. I also love Glo Minerals mineral makeup.
Hair & Makeup: Adri Tellez 3130 Makeup Artistry Photographer: Alicia C. Photography Model: Maggie Christensen Clothing Designer: Soreyda Benedit-Begley Jewelry Designer: Jeuarlet Sabounchi McClanahan
What is your favorite part of the job? Least-favorite? My favorite part of my job is the same as most artists: when you get to stand back and look at the art you have created it is a feeling of accomplishment. To be able to do it on a human being is a plus because you meet amazing people. My least favorite part are the people in this industry that demand that you work miracles. That can never happen no matter how good you are, or the products you use. What haven't you done yet as a makeup artist, but would like to? I would like to learn more special effects styles of makeup. If you could see your work published in any magazine, which would that be?
Any special message you would like to share with our readers? As a makeup artist I try and keep a sober mindset about outward appearances. I highly recommend others doing the same. Makeup is literally just meant to enhance what is already there. Itâ€™s not what you look like outside that makes you who you are, nor is your beauty contingent to your outward appearance. Who you are and what makes you beautiful is the person you are inside and how you are to others. If you are seen as ugly it is simply because you have neglected to care for the person you are inwardly. Many "ugly" people can be seen differently if they are kind and loving. Makeup is simply salt to an awesome dish, something to draw out more flavor.
Vanity Fair! You know you've reached the top by that point. How do you deal with clients who show you a magazine and say, "Make me look like this!" I go over face structure, skin tone, hair color, eye color, lip size, and nose shape differences. You can get a similar concept and even get really close, but the fact that we are all unique keeps us from looking like other people. So I tell my clients we can make you look like this person to an extent with being mindful to your own unique features and what will compliment you the best. Please share a favorite quote: A woman without paint is like food without salt.
www.3130makeupartistry.webs.com Sadieville, KY
execute the makeup look, whether it’s for photography, film/TV, runway, or for a client. Another thing I love about my job is constantly meeting new people, and be able to share the passion with the other creative talents in this industry. My least favorite part of my job is parting from all the new faces, and all the creative talents I have met and had worked with. What haven't you done yet as a makeup artist, but would like to? One, I would love to assist Alex Box and Pat McGrath. Their innovation and creati vi ty are by far beyond extraordinary. I’d love to enter their minds and see what’s all running inside when coming up with ideas for makeup looks. I hope to one day at least meet them and tell them what an icon they are to me. How did you get started with makeup artistry, and working with models? I had a very close friend do my makeup for a family retiree party. Now, she was no makeup artist. Since then I was inspired by what makeup can do to a person’s life with just some eye shadow and a pair of eyelashes. I was also an art artist doing lots of portrait sketching in my early years in school. I think that’s why I transitioned well into becoming a makeup artist. Are there any favorite or must-have products you recommend?
Second, I would love to work fashion runways with top designers. Like I tell everyone: if I have not gotten into makeup artistry I would have gotten into fashion or interior designs. Third, I’d love to work more in films and music videos.
I will be happy with any major magazine cover but I would love to have my work published in Time Magazine. How do you deal with clients who show you a magazine and say, "Make me look like this!" First, I would ask the client specifically what exactly do they want to achieve? And what do they like about the image? Whether if it’s the eye makeup style, colors, tone, overall look. After all that is answered, I would take it from there and narrow it down. Sometimes it’s just a matter of knowing what to ask the client in order to help you help them. Please share a favorite quote: This is my ALL TIME favorite quote whether if it’s pertaining to life in general or an inspiration quote: “Do not follow where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson Any special message you would like to share with our readers?
Lastly, I’d love to have my work published in major magazine covers.
“Find your passion and you will find your purpose in life. Your passion is what makes you come most ALIVE.” Unknown
If you could see your work published in any magazine, which would that be?
www.vanexayang.com Wausau, WI
My must-have in my pro kit are my beauty blenders and my powder puff. The beauty blender works as my applicator, and also as an eraser. You can do wonders with the Beauty Blenders. My (ring) powder puff gives me stability and control when working on faces, and is a must must have in my pro kit. Some of my favorite products are Face Atelier Foundation (looks gorgeous on skin), Benefit Badgal Mascara (great for stubborn hard to curl lashes) and Rosebud Salve Lip moisturizer (it leaves lips moisturized with a nice sheer gloss without feeling sticky). What is your favorite part of the job? Least-favorite? There is a lot I love about my job. One of my favorites is to be able to delivery and
Photographer: Brendan Carlson Hairstylist: Sylvia J. Stankowski Makeup Artist: Vanexa Yang Model: Rachel Mlatawou Model: Darcy Nett (Top Image)
find MAC’s Prep and Prime for face and lips in my kit. I think primer is an important part of any makeup routine. I once heard someone say “to not prime would be a crime”, and I totally agree! What is your favorite part of the job? Least -favorite? My favorite part would have to be doing makeup for creative photo shoots and runway shows. I just love the excitement and energy that comes with working with models and designers backstage or on a set. My least-favorite part is probably having to cleaning my brushes and reorganizing my makeup after a job. I'm usually so tired after a long day at a photo shoot or doing bridal makeup that the last thing I want to do when I get home is clean brushes. How did you get started with makeup artistry, and working with models?
What haven't you done yet as a makeup artist, but would like to?
My mom was a model and my sister went to beauty school, so I was always around makeup when I was younger. I thought they had the best jobs ever, but I wasn't really interested in being a model or working in a salon doing hair. It was the makeup that got my attention. Once I got older and started wearing it myself, I was always getting compliments. Sometimes people would ask me to do their makeup for special events or just for fun. It wasn't until a few years ago that I decided to go to school for proper training so I could turn my love for the art into a career.
Body painting, for sure! I've painted fun designs on faces, but have yet to do a full body. I’m obsessed with that show Faceoff and love when the artists paint their models' bodies rather than putting on a full costume.
My very first photo shoot, thanks to a close friend, was the day after I completed the JAM program at Jean Madeline. I had such an amazing experience and knew immediately that was the direction I wanted to take my career in, so I created an account on Model Mayhem and began networking right away. Do you have a specialty or niche? I’ve been told that my airbrushing skills are fabulous. Does that count? Are there any favorite or must-have products you recommend? Yes, it would be primer! You’ll always
interesting. A model I worked with told me she was picked for a feature article and the editor had chosen two of our photos. I was super happy and blasted the news all over Facebook; I even called family members to tell them. Well it turned out the publication was an online Fetish magazine….awkward! I still use it for the credit but decided against posting the link to the article after visiting the site. Not sure how my mom would have reacted to an ad for bondage tape that showed a woman taped to a chair next to the article. My sister thought it was hilarious. Please share a favorite quote: Right now my favorite quote would have to be “I don’t know where I’m going from here, but I promise it won’t be boring.” – David Bowie. My second favorite is "Love of Beauty is Taste; the Creation of Beauty is ART" - Ralph Waldo Emerson. Any special message you would like to share with our readers? Try not to take makeup too seriously, and don’t be afraid to try new things with color and texture. Just have fun with it!!
If you could see your work published in any magazine, which would that be? I’d love to see my work published in a fashion magazine like Marie Claire, or even Vogue. I think that would be amazing!
Trevose, PA www.protrucco.com
How do you deal with clients who show you a magazine and say, “Make me look like this!” I always say “let’s go for it!” I actually love and prefer when a client is prepared and knows what they want. However, I do explain to them that even though I can’t actually transform them in to Kim Kardashian (I get that one a lot) I will do my best to achieve a look similar to hers that is more flattering for them. Do you have any funny or interesting work-related stories you’d like to share? I’d have to say the first time my work was featured in a magazine was pretty
Model: Ashley Turner Makeup: Amy DeSimone Photographer: Bek Ruszin
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learn my craft and the better my results .. Do you work with a regular team for hair, makeup, wardrobe or art direction? Yes, I always have a team available, from hair and makeup to manicurist and wardrobe stylist. Beauty is very critical; everything needs to be on point or it's not acceptable. I rarely use the same people, I always welcome new talent and new vision to share with me. As long as we are all on the same page it becomes a success. If you could see yourself published in any magazine, which would that be? Beautylook Magazine , Vogue Global, Makeup Store Magazine, W Magazine and Dark Beauty Magazine. How did you get started in model photography? I studied many forms of photography, from landscape to macro, and didn't quite grasp the interest until one year I attended a light is light workshop taught by Dallas J Logan. He had agency models present who were our subjects for the 8 hour course, and there was a hair stylist & wardrobe team transforming the model. It felt like a team, and I was loving it. When I saw the results of my images at home, it spoke to me and I was in disbelief. My stills looked like art - I was blown away from how the whole team transpired artistry through my images. Since that day I was hooked on model photography. Do you have a photographic niche or specialty? Or how would you describe your style? I call my style "Artistic Freedom." Sometimes I ignore the rules and let my subjects let it all out. If you are having a bad day, show it through your emotions and make it artistic. When I'm shooting them or
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whatever mood they are in, I grasp that energy and with the correct lighting to compliment the mood, I make something out of nothing and the end result speaks for itself. Who or what inspires you to keep shooting? I'm surrounded by a team of close photographer allies. My best friend Stacy is a big inspiration (Stacy Be photography). We met in school and since that day, we've pushed each other to go harder and harder until we nail what we are trying to achieve through our lighting results. I came across a photographer called "Bruno Dayan" on a social network. Once I saw his work, I called up a team to meet me at the studio and shot for like 6 hours straight. I'm inspired by plenty of peoples' work. I love art - it's beautiful & a photograph without art is pointless to me. In addition, what inspires me to keep shooting is the love I get from fellow photographers who state I'm their favorite photographer and they look up to me. That makes me want to push harder even more because the more I'm shooting, the more I
Is there any one special person you would love to photograph? Tyra banks .. I been a fan of hers like forever! I love the energy and emotion she releases in front of the camera. She is the real deal to me. How much of a role does Photoshop and image-editing play in your workflow? Not too much time is put into Photoshop. I'm a perfectionist and everything counts. I make sure my team all play their parts on my subject before I shoot, and everything is intact. The only thing left for Photoshop is cleaning up the skin & hair a bit, which is always a pain to retouch. I try to avoid Photoshop as much as possible so I can focus on shooting more clients. Any photography tips or tricks you've picked up, that you'd like to share? Always use a color checker and a light meter. It will make your life easier. If you don't have the extended funds to buy multiple lighting equipment, invest in good quality light bounce reflectors. I
Hair & Makeup: Steven Seven Hudson
Model: Kat Livingston
myself own 2 Elinchrom BX 500 strobes and bounce reflectors, and that's how I achieve my results. Owning a bunch of equipment or having the largest studio does not make you a better photographer understanding your equipment and how the functions work is where you get satisfactory results that will blow your client's minds. Whatâ€™s your craziest photo shoot experience? Me and my partner Stacy had a big photo shoot big team and rental space. As we were preparing to shoot, we both realized that we left our lenses at home. It was the most awkward and nerve racking experience. Luckily our friends drove back to Brooklyn to pick them up for us, and the shoot was successful and we all left home satisfied. Please share a favorite quote: A photograph is a still of life .
www.steadyhandphotos.com New York, NY Makeup: Ms. Brown / Brown Candy Designs
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Photo: Jim Jurica / Model: Sabrina DiGiovanni