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CosmeticWorld SEPTEMBER 24, 2012



Isaac Mizrahi with QVC’s Lisa Robertson.

Famed designer Isaac Mizrahi introduced his debut fragrance, Fabulous—his first foray into the -Continued on Page 219


Shiseido’s new installation at Macy’s in downtown Boston.


Amidst an executive change at the top echelons of beauty behemoth Coty, Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) hosted its inaugural Newsmaker Forum of the season on September 12 entitled The One to Watch: Coty—A Global Beauty Leader. Coty’s just-named CEO Michele Scannavini had been scheduled to speak before his promotion, noted CEW president Carlotta Jacobson, who added that ticket sales spiked after the news and that the event had garnered a record number of 13 sponsors. Scannavini addressed an eager


Beauty and fashion icon Aerin Lauder appeared at Saks Fifth Avenue’s New York City flagship store location on September 5 to unveil her new line, Aerin Beauty. She greeted customers at Saks’ revamped Estée Lauder counter— where her line is selectively sold in the U.S., Canada and in the U.K.

Shiseido invited Beauty Fashion magazine out branching at nine stores in the Boston area and to

CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson and Jill Scalamandre (2nd r.) with Coty’s Renato Semerari and Catherine Walsh.

crowd after a video introduced him and showcased three of his greatest -Continued on Page 214


Condé Nast’s Louis Cona, Allure’s Linda Wells and P&G Prestige’s Donald Loftus.

-Continued on Page 218


Aerin Lauder

“It represents my sensibilities and lifestyle,” Lauder told Cosmetic World of the collection. “And I love the idea of heritage. I’m so proud that my point of view has been inspired by Estée Bergdorf Goodman’s Atique Majrouh Lauder. She was really the first person to with Joseph Garces of Robert Piguet Parfums. do a color collection that was based— Robert Piguet Parfums has new and edited—around her lifestyle.” Aerin Beauty will consist of an space in its U.S. flagship destination at Bergdorf Goodman. Essentials Collection (of signature -Continued on Page 217

Vol. XLVIII / No. 17

-Continued on Page 216

Beauty bible Allure doled out its muchcoveted red badges to 245 of the year’s best beauty products at a swanky cocktail reception for the magazine’s 16 th annual Best of Beauty Awards. Held at Jazz at Lincoln Center on Monday, September 10, over 400 industry notables comprised the “festive, beautiful crowd” in attendence, said Allure publisher Agnes Chapski. In her address, Chapski spoke to the magazine’s enduring reliability despite the changing times. “Although the media landscape has changed, Allure continues to offer content with credentials to our eight million readers monthly.” Editor in chief Linda Wells, who likened the event to the “Olympic gold -Continued on Page 216

Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2012 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.


COTY ROCKS CEW FORUM -Continued from Page 213

Coty’s Catherine Walsh and Michele Scannavini.

Coty’s Sergio Garcia, Ashley Barrett and Trisha White.

Coty’s Victoria Bluvstein, Jon Dinapoli and Lori Singer.

Coty’s Ralph Macchio and Leslie Smith (r.) with Firmenich’s Armand de Villoutreys.

Coty’s Ruth Sutcliffe and Fredericke Vance (r.) with Firmenich’s Westly Morris.

Pochet’s Gerald Wahle, Kal Kalyanasundarem and Charles de Forges (r.) with Cosmetic World’s George Ledes.

passions: soccer, Vespas—and the global beauty industry. “I’m in my quiet period,” Scannavini joked of the transitional time before introducing the evening’s speakers: Coty Beauty president Renato Semerari and Coty Prestige’s senior vice president of American fragrances, Catherine Walsh. “Beauty and the beast,” he teasingly dubbed the duo. In a conversation moderated by CEW chairwoman Jill Scalamandre centered around the theme of innovation, Semerari said that, contrary to Coty’s reputation as a celebrity fragrance specialist, the category only comprises

11% of its fragrance business, whereas 66% is comprised by its designer sector. Walsh, the reigning queen of Coty’s prestige fragrances, spoke to the importance of packaging— an issue she says she could “talk about all night. “When you think about it, fragrance is really the least innovative category in beauty,” she said, “and packaging is a crucial tool to instantly create that sense of theater in store.” Walsh then held up a bottle of Jennifer Lopez’s latest, Glowing, which actually illuminates with each use, she noted, giggling delightedly.

TPR Holdings’ Brian Robinson, GQ’s Karen Drechsler and Westly Morris.

Arcade’s Diane Crecca and Philippe Ughetto.


Geoff Weiss

Adelaide P. Farah

president & ceo ext. 242

executive editor ext. 236

contributing editor ext. 225

John G. Ledes

Debra Davis

Jennifer Drucker

Eric Michelson

publisher & editor emeritus

advertising director ext. 245

art director ext. 252



Grace Beauty’s Louise Caldwell with Peter Acerra of SGD.

Ann Gottlieb of Ann Gottlieb Associates with Lori Singer.

PHONE 212-840-8800 FAX 212-840-7246 WEB SUBSCRIPTIONS: 800-304-8323 Production ext. 245

Circulation ext. 248

Accounting ext. 232

PUBLISHER CONFIDENTIALITY POLICY: The subscription lists of this publication are maintained on a confidential basis. Beauty Fashion has never marketed, sold or otherwise distributed, its subscription lists for any commercial or other purpose. COSMETIC WORLD (ISSN0589 8447) has been published since 1966 for the cosmetic, toiletry and fragrance industry, its manufacturers and retailers. COSMETIC WORLD is published bi-weekly except for the 1st week in January and July, by Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016 (212) 840-8800. Subscriptions: Domestic $175 one year, $325 two years, Foreign-(air mail) $250 one year, $450 two years. Periodicals postage paid at New York, N.Y. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to COSMETIC WORLD, 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700, New York, NY 10016

SEPTEMBER 24, 2012


Coty’s George Cleary, Lorrie King, Mary van Praag and Jules Kaufman.

StriVectin’s Michael Fishoff and JuE Wong with Coty’s Elizabeth Bracken.

Maesa’s Jimmy Silberman and Scott Kestenbaum with George Ledes.

SGD’s Ashok Sudan and Sheherazade Chamlou (2nd r.) with Coty’s Laura Callahan and George Ledes.

Firmenich’s Ilias Ermenidis with LVMH’s Jean-Marc Plisson.

Coty’s Bill Boraczek, Andrea DiNunzio and Derek Bowen.

IFF’s Olivier Delcour and Christophe de Villeplée (r.) with Ruth Sutcliffe.

Symrise’s Keri Affronti, Naoual Assis and Rhona Stokols.

Macy’s Nancy Schmidt, Elizabeth Arden’s Art Spiro and Givaudan’s Cathy Torelli.



Chinese model Sui He has been named the new face of Shiseido Makeup for the brand’s global Spring 2013 campaign. Shiseido Sui He artistic director Dick Page, alongside company execs, hand-selected He, who has become a runway standout in recent years in New York, London, Paris and Milan. “Sui He embodies Shiseido’s holistic sense of beauty,” stated Hiroshi Maruyama, Shiseido’s general manager of international marketing. Added Page: “She wears her beauty lightly.” SEPTEMBER 24, 2012



Frederic Jacques has joined Takasago as vice president, fine fragrances. In his new position, Jacques will re-deploy the fine fragrances division for Frederic Jacques Takasago in the U.S., reporting to Luc Malfait, president of Takasago Europe Perfumery Laboratory. His hiring reflects the company’s commitment to fine fragrances here with the objective of aligning the U.S. initiative to the company’s Paris offices and solidifying Takasago’s identity as the go-to creative boutique fragrance house.


Miracle Skin Transformer founder Sarah McNamara has pledged to donate $5.00 from every sale of her just-launched Lip Rewind Love to the Children’s Action Network, a national non-profit founded by Kate Capshaw, Steven Spielberg and Henry Winkler that raises awareness and creates programs for foster children. The lip product is just one of Miracle Skin Transformer’s 7 SKUs. Three more products will hit Sephora and Nordstrom doors nationwide this fall with a UK launch of the brand slated for winter. ■CW 215


AERIN LAUDER DAZZLES AT SAKS -Continued from Page 213

-Continued from Page 213

Allure’s Linda Wells and Agnes Chapski with Elizabeth Arden’s Francine Gingras and Kathy Widmer.

Agnes Chapski, P&G’s Kim Yates, Linda Wells and Nick Makhatadze of Starcom Worldwide.

medal of beauty,” spoke about the ‘lipstick index’—a term coined by Leonard Lauder to describe increased spending on beauty products during a recession due to the category’s position as affordable luxury. Wells herself put forth a different theory. In tough economic times, “women tend to focus more on appearance in order to attract a rich mate,” she quipped.

The Aerin Beauty ad image.

and white patmust-haves) as tern. Prices range well as limitedfrom $28.00 edition, seasonal for a Rose Lip Color Collections Conditioner to to be released $148.00 for a set four times yearly. of five brushes, Inspired by her housed in a own effortless signature case. beauty and polPackaging feaished perspective, tures golden, products feature “mistake-proof The Estée Lauder Companies’ Jane Hertzmark white and soft Hudis, John Demsey and Aerin Lauder. pink accents. shades, dual-purThe debut fall Color Collection, pose formulas and pretty packaging,” dubbed Weekday and Weekend, has according to the brand. And as she finds special inspiration been carefully curated to help in flowers, a signature and calming rose women transition their makeup looks scent threads through the collection, from polished and professional to while each product features its own casual elegance. The 6-SKU lineup floral infusion—including magnolia, comprises two palettes, two lipsticks and two glosses—one for each time peony and more. The Essentials Collection comprises of week—ranging in price from makeup, skin and body products as $30.00 to $70.00. Floral-infused well as brushes and a makeup bag— formulas both moisturize and soothe ■CW done in the line’s signature rose the senses.

B U L L E TI N Linda Wells, Revlon’s Julia Goldin and Agnes Chapski.

Kate Somerville’s Michelle Taylor and Bliss World’s Mike Indursky with Linda Wells and Agnes Chapski. ■CW


Selections from the line’s debut Essentials Collection.


Ralf Schwieger

Mane perfumer Ralf Schwieger is currently participating in the Museum of Art a n d D e s i g n ’s Open Studios program, in which artists will discuss their processes, mate-

rials and concepts to foster a dialog with the public. The Department of Olfactory Arts curator for the Museum of Art and Design is industry notable Chandler Burr. Schwieger will spend every Thursday through December at the museum to give a glimpse into his olfactory creations. Other participants include multidisciplinary artist Trong Gia Nguyen, sculptor Derek Haffar, fiber worker Nathan Vincent, industrial designer Lara Knutson and ceramicist ■CW Matthew Greco.

SEPTEMBER 24, 2012



The fragrancemaker now occupies “one of the four corners of the fragrance world” in Bergdorf Goodman, said Joseph Garces, president and CEO of Robert Piguet Parfums. “Bergdorf Goodman, one of the most prestigious stores in the world, is where the real fragrances live,” Garces said.

BALENCIAGA EMPHASIZES CRUEL BEAUTY Developed by subjecting flowers to scientific experimentation, ultracontemporary design wiz Nicolas Ghesquière will unveil this month the latest perfume creation by Basque-born brand Balenciaga. Entitled Florabotanica, the scent was inspired by a collection of structured floral fashions Ghesquière designed some years ago. “The dresses were covered with flowers, but these flowers were neither charming nor romantic. They structured the whole silhouette,” he said. “I wanted the flowers in this perfume to express the same idea.”

the story that we wanted to tell with Florabotanica.” Composed by internationallyrenowned noses Olivier Polge and JeanChristophe Hérault of International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF), the juice features two primary accords. Vetiver, amber and caladium leaf yield a mossy mélange, while rose, carnation and mint exhilarate with juvenile freshness. The secret rose note, dubbed experimental rose, originates from Turkey and has both romantic and dangerous aspects, Ghesquière added. The fragrance will live in a bottle that Coty has likened to “a couture

Balenciaga’s latest, Florabotanica.

The Kristen Stewart-starring ad spread.

The name Florabotanica also evokes the 18 th century botanical gardens that displayed exotic, rare and strange-colored plants discovered in distant lands and recovered by experiment-hungry biologists, said Coty, which holds the Balenciaga fragrance license. (Balenciaga is now owned by the French multinational holding company PPR.) “Flowers can be cruel, carnivorous or venomous and even contain poisons,” Ghesquière added. “This is

object”—accented with the graphic black and white stripes that were a signature design element of founder Cristóbal Balenciaga. An oversized tube with these bold lines plunges into the juice like a laboratory test tube looking to capture the essence of flowers, Coty said. Twilight beauty Kristen Stewart will serve as Florabotanica’s muse, after meeting and captivating Ghesquière years ago. She will appear in ads for the fragrance this fall, selected for her rebellious femininity and uncontrollable beauty, Coty said. Eaux de parfum in 1.0, 1.7 and 3.4 oz. sizes will retail for $65.00, $95.00 and $125.00. A body lotion and shower gel—each sized at 6.8 oz. and priced at $50.00—will also be available. The line launches exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus this month, and will roll out to additional specialty doors in October. ■CW

Bergdorf Goodman’s Kathleen Clyne and Robert Piguet Parfums’ Annemarie Tibaldi.

Robert Piguet Parfums’ DJ Pesta with Atique Majrouh.

The three collections of Robert Piguet Parfums are available at Bergdorf Goodman. Robert Piguet Parfums’ Classic Collection includes Fracas , Bandit , Baghari , Visa , Cravache, Calypso as well as its first collaboration designer fragrance, Douglas Hannant. The Nouvelle Collection de Robert Piguet, a range

SEPTEMBER 24, 2012


of ultra-luxe and distinctive scents, including Bois Noir, Casbah, Mademoiselle Piguet, Notes and Oud, is designed to complement the brand’s existing range of classic perfumes. The Pacific Collection de Robert Piguet, to launch on October 13, will be available exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman in the U.S. It features Blossom, Chaí and ■CW Jeunesse.


SHISEIDO’S BOSTON STORE TOUR -Continued from Page 213 cover the brand’s latest installations. Led by Rita Mangan, senior vice president, sales, education and retail strategies, the store tour included Macy’s in downtown Boston, Braintree and Burlington, Bloomingdale’s in Chestnut Hill, Sephora doors in

Photos by Chelsea Kyle

to find out what they are looking for, what their needs are and then applying the product at counter to suit those needs.” Mangan is especially proud of the new Shiseido installation at Macy’s Downtown/Boston. “We have a top space and location at this new Shiseido counter, which

Macy’s Downtown/Boston’s David Furlano with Shiseido’s Sylvia Kam-Ng, Kathy Luong, Mary Lok, Wendy Beauregard, Rita Mangan, Michelle Tu and John Berardi.

Bloomingdale’s/Chestnut Hill’s Carole Vena (2nd l.), Kim Emmerson (3rd l.) and Meghan McDowell (2nd r.) with John Berardi, Wendy Beauregard, Michelle Tu, Shiseido’s Alla Shupletsova and Rita Mangan.

Nordstrom/Burlington’s Cindy Gelb (2nd l.) Karman Chan (3rd l.) and Cheryl Isabelle-Alper (c.) with Rita Mangan, Wendy Beauregard, Michelle Tu and John Berardi.

Sephora’s Ariel LePre (2nd l.), Mindy Ngo (3rd l.), Andrea Sandoval-O’Neil (4th r.) and Roseann Campbell (3rd r.) with Michelle Tu, Wendy Beauregard, Rita Mangan and John Berardi.

exemplifies what the brand Boston and Burlington, Lord i s a b o u t g l o b a l l y. Th e & Taylor in Braintree and installation’s bold, updated Burlington and Nordstrom red and white graphics really in Burlington. give us a strong brand image “We have terrific products [on the beauty floor]. We and we educate our beauty have several consultation consultants to offer excepareas including a private tional service at point-ofspace where customers can sale,” Mangan explained. experience a facial massage. “Once we get a new customer We worked with our team at to try Shiseido products, this counter to create an they come back and are the most loyal customers I have Macy’s South Shore Plaza/Braintree’s David Mainville, Greg Walton environment that suited everything from traffic flow experienced.” (4 r.) and Christine Mendoza (3 r.) with Shiseido’s Michelle Tu, “The secret to success in Cyndi Jacobs, Tiffany Trinh, Rita Mangan, Fang Liang, John Berardi within the store to storage and Wendy Beauregard. and showcase options for cosmetics is all about talent. When you have the right people at the counter, business the products to areas for complimentary beauty is amazing,” stated Craig Davis, vice president/store services.” Look for full coverage of the Shiseido store-hopping manager of Macy’s Downtown/Boston. “It’s all about ■CW personality and being able to connect with the customer tour in the October issue of Beauty Fashion. th



SEPTEMBER 24, 2012



Joanna Coles, who has served as editor in chief of Marie Claire for six years, has been named editor of Cosmopolitan, effective September 10. She replaces longtime editor Kate White, who will remain at Hearst as an advisor, but has decided to focus on her writing and speaking career. Coles will report to Hearst Magazines president David Carey. Stepping into the top spot at Marie Claire vacated by Coles is Anne Fulenwider, who has served as the editor in chief of Brides since October 2011. She will also report to Carey. “Cosmopolitan is an iconic brand that resonates with women worldwide,” Coles said. “To be able to take over the flagship edition is both a huge challenge and an incredible opportunity. I relish the chance to put my stamp on Cosmo and make it the young woman’s ultimate playbook f o r c o n f i d e n c e , ch o i c e s a n d navigating change.” “I am thrilled to return to Marie Claire as editor in chief,” said Fulenwider, who formerly served as the magazine’s executive editor. “I have such a strong attachment to the brand and what it delivers to the savvy, stylish women who read it.”


Laura Mercier Cosmetics has launched an Ovarian Cancer Fund to raise awareness, support educational efforts and fund research of the disease—which is the number one killer among gynecological cancers. This month, the brand will donate 100% of profits from two products— the Bonne Mine Healthy Glow for Face & Cheeks Crème Colour Palette and the Rose Hope Lip Glacé—to its Laura Mercier Ovarian Cancer Fund. Throughout September and October, the brand will also run public service announcements in leading magazines and launch a dedicated web initiative with mobile application, in-store merSEPTEMBER 24, 2012


chandising and social media support to help educate women and drive donations. Donations have already been made to the Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center and Cancer and Careers. “Both Laura Mercier and I have been personally touched by ovarian cancer—I through my sister, who lost her battle with the disease, and Laura through a dear friend who has been fighting for years,” said Claudia Poccia, president and CEO of Gurwitch Products, LLC, which manufactures and distributes the brand. “The mission of the Laura Mercier Ovarian Cancer Fund is at the core of our brand,” said Mercier, the brand’s global ambassador, “and we are committed to making a difference in the lives of women.”

on October 25 at 2:30 PM entitled “Curb Appeal: Creating Products/ Packaging that are eye catching for Impulse Purchasing, Online.” Panelists will include: Dominic Burke, creative director of Webb DeVlam; Barbara LePortz, CEO of Fragrance Intelligence; Paul McLaughlin, vice president of creative for Elizabeth Arden; and Joanna Norman, founding director of Pandora Ltd. The event, created by Rosen, who is the designer/president of Marc Rosen Associates, will explore the ways in which companies must create products and packaging that speaks to online shoppers as digital retailing becomes increasingly prevalent.


Kinerase, a sub-brand of Valeant Pharmaceuticals, will donate 20% of the proceeds from two anti-aging products to the American Breast Cancer Foundation (ABCF) throughout the month of October (when purchased at Ulta). Products include the all-new Advanced Cream and Advanced Lotion. The American Breast Cancer Foundation provides screenings, diagnostic testing and treatment services to individuals and medical clinics at reduced fees or free of charge nationwide.

Jewish Women International (JWI) has selected Elana Drell Szyfer as one of its 2012 Woman to Watch. The CEO of AHAVA North America will be honored for her business acumen and for balancing career and motherhood at a gala event on December 3 at the Washington Marriott Wardman Park. She also appears in the fall issue of Jewish Woman alongside nine fellow honorees. Drell Szyfer was appointed general manager and subsequently CEO of AHAVA North America in January 2011 after a nearly 20-year career at Estée Lauder, L’Oréal and Avon. Under her tutelage at AHAVA, she has improved internal operations, refocused distribution channels, increased brand awareness, and led the business to strong double-digit growth. “My job is to make the brand commercially successful, but I also have a responsibility to increase positive awareness surrounding Israel and its consumer goods industry,” Drell Szyfer told Jewish Woman of her work at AHAVA.


Noted designer Marc Rosen will moderate a panel at Luxe Pack Monaco



Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) will host a seminar entitled “India 360—An Exploration of India’s Raw Material Resources and Market” on October 24 at the Saddle Brook Marriott. The fall seminar will focus on India as a vital supply source for the flavor and fragrance industry as well as a burgeoning consumer market. Four presentations featuring industry notables will be followed by an Indian-themed lunch.

MIZRAHI’S ‘FAB’ DEBUT -Continued from Page 213

beauty world—during a live broadcast on September 6 for Fashion’s Night Out. ■CW 219

cosmeticworldcalendar Subject: (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro

(M) (P) (R) (S) (T)

Meeting Press Trip Reception Seminar Trade Show


Fashion Group International Innovations in Scent FGI • NYC 5:30 PM (S) (TA) (212) 302-5511


Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce Annual Open Dinner Honoring Parlux’s Kathleen Galvin Westmount Country Club • W. Paterson NJ 6:00 PM (R) (TA) (732) 922-0500


Fashion Group International Ron Johnson - The Rocky Road to Reinventing Retail Hilton Hotel • NYC 11:30 AM (S) (TA) (212) 302-5511


CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM (M)


Fragrance Foundation Circle of Champions Dinner Honoring Bernd Beetz St. Regis • NYC 6:00 PM Members Only (A) (212) 725-2755


The Makeup Show Europe Station-Berlin • Berlin Germany (T) (TA)


American Cancer Society DreamBall Cipriani 42nd Street • NYC 7:00 PM (B) (TA) (212) 237-3915


BeWell Expo Los Angeles Convention Center Los Angeles CA (TA)

Smithers Rapra The Future of Pigment and Color Cosmetics Summit Hilton Miami • Downtown Miami FL (S) (T)


Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce Fall Seminar Saddle Brook Marriott • Saddle Brook NJ 8:00 AM (S) (TA) (732) 922-0500


Fashion Group International Night of Stars Gala Cipriani Wall Street • NYC 6:00 PM (A) (TA) (212) 302-5511


OCTOBER 21 - 26

Tax Free World Exhibition Cannes France (T)

OCTOBER 24 - 26

Luxe Pack Monaco Grimaldi Forum • Monaco (T)



Cosmetic Executive Women Achiever Awards Luncheon Waldorf=Astoria • NYC 11:00 AM (A) (TA) (646) 929-8026

7th Annual “Girl’s Night Out” For A Great Cause Benefiting FIT Scholarships, in memory of Jane Scott Rouge Tomate • NYC 6:00 - 8:00 PM Cocktails & Hors d’oeuvres (TA) (212) 261-1018


Fragrance Foundation Making Scents of Your Future Career Day NYC (212) 725-2755



The Makeup Show Orlando Orlando FL (T) (TA)


Admission detail: (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available

In-Cosmetics Asia BITEC • Bangkok Thailand (T)

Fashion Group International Spring/Summer 2013 Trend Presentation Time Life Building • NYC (TA) (212) 302-5511 CIBS Members Only Luncheon Harvard Club • NYC 12:00 PM (R)

For future events check out 220

SEPTEMBER 24, 2012


Cosmetic World September 24, 2012  

Cosmetic World September 24, 2012 issue