Cosmetic World november 29, 2010
BULLETIN STATE OF THE INDUSTRY
WSL Strategic Retail’s Candace Corlett and The Fragrance Foundation’s Rochelle Bloom with Susan Babinksy of Kline Group.
The Fragrance Foundation hosted their annual State of the Industry luncheon at the Harvard Club in New York City -Continued on Page 234
KATY’S PURRFECT SCENT
K a t y Pe r ry s e t u p s h o p a t Greeley Square Park in New York City on November 16 to launch her new fragrance, Purr.
Perfumania partnered with NBC’s The Apprentice during their tenth season to feature the launch of reality star Kim Kardashian’s signature fragrance in over 370 Perfumania stores. To celebrate the collaboration, Donald Trump, Kim Kardashian and Perfumania’s executives hosted a party at Provacteur in New York City on November 10. “It was a treat to have Kim Kardashian and my friends from Perfumania join us on The Apprentice,” said Donald Trump. “I admire Kim and her success and we
BECKER AND LOREN SHARE FRAGRANCE INSIGHTS AT CEW
ESTÉE LAUDER DELIVERS PROMISING RESULTS
-Continued on Page 231
KRAFT MOVES TO SHAPE
Tara Kraft, beauty and fashion editor of Star, has been named editor in chief of Shape. She will replace Valerie Latona, and -Continued on Page 235
NEST CREATES COLLECTION FOR ULTA
Nest Fragrances has developed a new scented candle collection for Ulta. The home fragrance -Continued on Page 235
Vol. XLV / No. 18
PERFUMANIA AND KIM KARDASHIAN TEAM UP FOR The APPRENTICE
-Continued on Page 235
The Estée Lauder Companies announced at their annual stockholders meeting on November 9 that they made excellent progress in fiscal
Donald Trump and Kim Kardashian with Perfumania’s Stephen Nussdorf.
-Continued on Page 232
GLAMOUR’S 20TH WOMEN OF THE YEAR AWARDS G l a m o u r c e l e b ra t e d 2 0 ye a r s o f ground-breaking women at their annual Women of the Year awards at Carnegie Hall in New York City on November 8.
Givaudan’s Calice Becker and Coty’s Ruth Sutcliffe with Trudi Loren of The Estée Lauder Companies.
Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) welcomed Calice Becker, vice president and executive perfumer at Givaudan, and Trudi Loren, vice president of corporate fragrance development at The Estée Lauder Companies, to reveal their fragrance insights at their Women in Beauty Series on November 10. Having worked together for the past 20 years, these ladies’ collaborations have produced some of the most well-known fragrances of all time. Long-time members of CEW, these expert perfumers reflected back on the days before they became the noses -Continued on Page 230
L’Oréal Paris’ Karen Fondu and Glamour’s Cindy Leive and Bill Wackermann with Cher.
Cindi Leive, editor in chief of Glamour, and Bill Wackermann, senior vice president and publishing director of Glamour, welcomed the packed house with their thoughts about what’s taken place over the past two decades . “A lot can happen in 20 years. In 1990, not a single woman had won the Nobel Peace Prize,” said Leive. “Last year, we nabbed five.” Queen Rania of Jordan was honored for her education of women and girls, -Continued on Page 231
Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2010 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.
BECKER AND LOREN SHARE FRAGRANCE INSIGHTS AT CEW -Continued from Page 229
Givaudan’s Kate Greene and Cos Policastro with Karyn Khoury of The Estée Lauder Companies.
Firmenich’s Jerry Vittoria and Coty Prestige’s Lori Singer with Claudia Poccia of Avon/mark.
responsible for olfactive sensations like Dior’s J’Adore. “When I was around four years old, I wanted to know how flowers got into the perfume bottle,” Becker said. “Now, I can actually answer my own question.” Ms. Loren wanted to go into pharmaceutical research and ended up taking a job close to home as a fragrance developer and evaluator. “I remember the strong smell of Pierre Cardin’s fragrance on my father and Chanel No. 5 on my mother,” Loren said. “Fragrance is emotional, and we need to make it so that there is no longer a barrier between the product and the consumer.”
Ann Gottlieb Associates’ Ann Gottlieb and Carlotta Jacobson of CEW.
They also discussed their opinions of the most significant feature of a fragrance. “It needs to have memorability,” Becker said. “You need to be able to recognize it and take a strong message from it.” Ms. Loren talked about the power of meaning, and the importance of the quality of raw materials. “A product with meaning is going to break through the clutter,” Loren said. “After lots of trials, I’ll know which is the right one when it brings a certain imagery to my mind and it just clicks.”
Arcade’s Diane Crecca and Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore with Rose Eckert of Givaudan.
Calice Becker and Givaudan’s Stephen Nilsen with Sophie Grojsman.
IFF’s Bertrand Lemont and Catherine Barber of Clinique.
The Estée Lauder Companies’ Carol Russo with Diana Espino and Catherine Russell of Aramis and Designer Fragrances.
NPD Group’s Elise Marshall with Peter Acerra and Shéhérazade Chamlou of SGD.
Givaudan’s Piero Savio and Benedicte Bron of Beauty Avenues. ■CW
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november 29, 2010
GLAMOUR’S 20TH WOMEN OF THE YEAR AWARDS -Continued from Page 229
and hip-hop diva Janet Jackson and actress Hilary Swank presented Donatella Versace with her award for uniting fashion and community. Mayor Michael Bloomberg “recognized three female athletes who are changing the world”—soccer great Mia Hamm, basketball star Lisa Leslie and Olympic skier Lindsey Vonn. News anchor Katie Couric presented the “triumphant trifecta,” Dr. Hawa Abdi and her daughters, with their award for their efforts in changing the lives of Somalis. Pop star Fergie accepted her award from actress Kate Hudson, and told girls in the audience “to have an honest voice and know how to use it.” Adventurer Katie Spotz was awarded for raising money to fund the global need for clean drinking water, and Mississippi-native Constance McMillen received her award for standing up for gay rights in order to take her girlfriend to her high school prom.
Award-winning actress Julia Roberts was presented her award by Oprah Winfrey, who said Julia is “a different kind of powerful woman because when she looks at you, she really sees you, and that makes a person feel valued.” Dr. Susan Rice, United Nations ambassador, honored five women that are leaders of their countries: President Ellen Johnson Sirleaf of Liberia, president Dalia Grybauskaite of Lithuania, prime minister Jadranka Kosor of Croatia, prime minister Iveta Radicova of Slovakia and prime minister Kamla PersadBissessar of Trinidad and Tobago. And lastly, actor Stanley Tucci presented the Lifetime Achievement Award to Cher, for her outstanding humanitarian efforts, especially with the Heroes Project for wounded veterans. Cher pointed up at the girls in the balcony and said, “Don’t take no for an answer. No is just some bullshit word someone made up.”
Hilary Swank, Donatella Versace and Janet Jackson.
Cindy Leive with Julia Roberts and Oprah Winfrey backstage.
Lindsey Vonn, Lisa Leslie and Mia Hamm with Mayor Michael Bloomberg.
november 29, 2010
Kate Hudson and Fergie.
ESTÉE LAUDER DELIVERS PROMISING RESULTS -Continued from Page 229
2010. Growing market share in every region, especially skin care, and negotiating the agreement to acquire Smashbox Cosmetics, the company delivered its best results ever despite uncertain economic conditions. As the parent company of 25 prestige brands, Estée Lauder has determined that newness drives the beauty industry. In order to continue their success, they have developed key strategic characteristics such as focusing on the biggest initiatives in the biggest markets, increasing advertising for the biggest innovations and adding television and digital to their mix of advertising. According to Fabrizio Freda, president and CEO of The Estée Lauder Companies, the company’s monthly stock price increased 70.6% over the fiscal year, resulting in a $4.6 billion rise in market value. Estée Lauder continues to deliver value to its shareholders, as management announced a 36% increase in its annual dividend from $0.55 per share to $0.75 per share. As far as goals they would like to achieve by 2013, the company plans to cut costs by approximately $550 million and generate more than 60% of its total sales outside of the U.S. “Innovation is vital, and we see a large opportunity for growth in our near future,” Freda said. ■CW
Drs. Amina, Hawa and Deqo Abdi receiving their award. ■CW
PERFUMANIA AND KIM KARDASHIAN -Continued from Page 229
CLARINS UNVEILS NEW LORD & TAYLOR COUNTER
he Clarins team gathered with Lord & Taylor executives to showcase the debut of their redesigned beauty counter on November 3. “Everything has been redesigned to fit the Lord & Taylor atmosphere,” said Jonathan Zrihen, president and CEO of Clarins North America. “We also wanted to be close to the entrance so Clarins’ Maria Dempsey, Jonathan Zrihen, shoppers could see our products as Frederic Cohen, Danyelle Boilard and they enter—creating a traffic stopper.” Anne Marie Roman with Barbara Zinn-Moore of Lord & Taylor (c.). The counter has four access points and two service counters, allowing four customers to be serviced at a time. “We wanted to make sure the space was open and inviting,” Zrihen said. “We like to listen to customers and make sure we’re aware of their beauty concerns.”
SIX SCENTS PARFUMS KICKS OFF EVENT SERIES
ix Scents Parfums paired Givaudan perfumers Yann Vasnier, Roberto FloresRoux, Stephen Nilsen, Shyamala Maisondieu, Natalie Gracia and Christophe Raynaud with visionary fashion designers to create olfactory interpretations around a central theme and contribute the sales to a charitable cause. They came together to celebrate their collaboration at a party at the 3 Legged Dog in New York City on November 5.
Givaudan’s Rodrigo Flores-Roux, Yann Vasnier and Stephen Nilsen with Kaya Sorhaindo of Six Scents Parfums (2nd l.).
Each fragrance will be offered in a limited quantity of 3,000 bottles at over 220 retailers worldwide, and a large portion of the net proceeds will go to War Child International. 232
MACY’S CELEBRATES BOBBI BROWN’S BEAUTY RULES
were happy to have America’s largest fragrance retailer on the show. I think the results Kim is going to see are going to be unbelievably impressive.” During the episode, teams worked directly with Ms. Kardashian to create an in-store retail display for her perfume. The winning team’s ideas will be incorporated into the marketing campaign that will appear in Perfumania stores across the country. “Donald and Kim are well respected business moguls and working with them was a very positive experience,” said Stephen Nussdorf, Perfumania’s chairman of the board. “We are excited to see the outcome of The Apprentice candidates’ promotional and marketing efforts.” On the red carpet at the party, Ms. Kardashian exclaimed, “I knew that doing the show was going to be intense and judgmental, but we Kardashian girls always love a good challenge.” ■CW
AVON REDEFINES AGING WITH ANEW PLATINUM
acy’s Herald Square in New York City welcomed makeup artist and best-selling author Bobbi Brown on November 9 for a book-signing in celebration of her new book Beauty Rules, a beauty guide for young women. Filled with over 300 photographs, insider beauty tricks, before-and-after makeovers and real-life advice from beauty experts, models and celebrities, the book was written to help young women learn the beauty basics and then get creative and experiment with their look to ultimately find their own style.
von hosted a luncheon at A Voce in New York City on November 3 to celebrate their new skin care breakthrough, Anew Platinum, and discuss the redefinition of aging. Avon’s Maribelle Orengo and Erin O’Brien with Jacqueline Bisset (c.).
The face of the new product, actress Jacqueline Bisset, led a panel conversation with Anthony Gonzalez, senior manager of global skin care development for Avon, and the beauty editors from More, Ladies’ Home Journal and Better Homes & Gardens to talk about what women are looking for in terms of skin care. “This product is majorly flattering and has practically given me a new lease on life,” Bisset said. “The feeling of feeling good is an addiction—and one worth working for.” ■CW november 29, 2010
LOVE, CHLOÉ CAPTURES RETRO BEAUTY For a little more than two years, a team of perfumers and designers collaborated to create the latest Chloé fragrance, Love, Chloé. The name was inspired by Hannah MacGibbon, creative director of Chloé, and the way she signs all her notes and messages to friends with “Love, Hannah.” “Hannah wanted to capture the spontaneous, natural beauty of the Chloé woman, while revealing the elegance of a modern, grown-up C h l o é w o m a n ,” s a i d P h i l i p p e Desroche, marketing director of Chloé for Coty Prestige. The metallic trim on the flacon and the delicate chain attached to the cap are emblematic of Chloé accessories and fashion. Developed by Givaudan perfumers Louise Turner and Nathalie GraciaCetto, the notes include orange blossom, pink pepper, iris absolute, lilac, hyacinth, wisteria blossom, heliotropine, powdery musks, talc and rice powder. “Love, Chloé embodies all the olfactory expressions of cosmetics, leaving a fine, powdery scent that is light and sensual with a slightly retro feel,” Turner said. “The color of the juice ties back to the fashion house of Chloé, and the nude richness of the Chloé fashion palette.” The fragrance is available exclusively in the U.S. at Saks Fifth Avenue and distribution will expand to additional doors in January 2011. The collection includes 1.7 oz. and 2.5 oz. eau de parfums for $85.00 and $110.00, a shower gel for $50.00 and a body lotion for $45.00. Brazilian model Raquel Zimmerman is the face of the fragrance, and will be seen in international campaigns beginning in February. “Raquel so well embodies the Chloé fragrance with her effortlessness and chic femininity,” Desroche said. “It is all about the simplicity of style and contagious beauty.” ■CW november 29, 2010 COSMETIC WORLD
LAURA GELLER: MAKEUP MAVEN Whether she’s engaging viewers with her New York wit on QVC, or baking her makeup in a plant in Italy, Laura Geller is gleaming with the success of her brand Laura Geller Beauty Ingenuity, and she owes it all to her personal motto, “innovate, don’t imitate.” Starting as a young makeup artist, Ms. Geller knew she had a gift for teaching women how to use makeup. Eventually her gift became gifts for hundreds of other women when she opened the doors to her Laura Geller Makeup Studio on the Upper East Side in New York City. Offering educational sessions for individuals and groups, she wants to interactively educate women on the right way to use each of her products. “My store is a living laboratory,” Geller said. “Women are s o vo c a l a b o u t their wants and needs, and my staff and I think we have something to offer them.” Known for her color-corrective pigments and “baked” makeup, Ms. Geller’s products reach a multitude of women—young to old and black to white. Each product begins as a smooth liquid that is then infused with a variety of colors. The colors are then swirled together and baked for 24 hours on terracotta pans to create a rich texture and vibrancy. “The integrity of the ingredients in my products can be stabilized
because of the baked process being used,” Geller said. “We aren’t using machines to create the makeup, and no two are ever identical.” Until this point in her life, Ms. Geller has learned a great deal about managing her company—conquering challenges, embracing successes and being very careful so she doesn’t “implode.” “I owe a great deal of my success to QVC, and the people that believe in me there,” Geller said. “Since 1997, I’ve been more comfortable on air than off. I know that I’m speaking to that one woman who is hungry for my knowledge.” Expanding her distribution internationally, and to a fresh landscape of channels including numerous websites and Ulta, Ms. Geller has also recently made the move into the newly created Macy’s Impulse section inside select Macy’s stores. “I am so proud of the partnership,” Geller said. “Macy’s is discovering the new niche brands of today and making them the stars of tomorrow.” Using feedback from her rapidly growing Facebook page, Ms. Geller is constantly brewing a pot of ideas for the future. “Five years from now I hope to see more of my makeup studios, maybe even in different cities,” she said. “I want to find more artists like myself who can understand the psyche of a woman as soon as she sits down.” ■CW
NEWPRODUCTS PHILOSOPHY The Gingerbread House
Category: Body care Launch: October 2010 Claims: These ginger-spice scented foaming bubble bath and shower gels provide a rich, moisturizing lather that gently cleanses and conditions skin, leaving it super soft. Ingredients: Sparkle, spice and everything nice. Stats: $20.00 233
STATE OF THE INDUSTRY 2010 -Continued from Page 229
Rochelle Bloom, Ken Goldstein of The Conference Givaudan’s Rose Eckert and Felix MayrBoard, Susan Babinksy and Candace Corlett with Harting with Susan Kelly of Coty Prestige. Guerilla Capital Management’s Peter Siris.
IFF’s Christophe de Villeplée and Ann Gottlieb Fusion Brands’ Justin Welch and Annie Bystryn with Westly Morris of Firmenich. of Ann Gottlieb Associates.
on November 18. Rochelle Bloom, p r e s i d e n t o f Th e Fra g ra n c e Foundation, introduced Peter Siris, managing director of Guerilla Capital Management and columnist for the New York Daily News, as this year’s keynote speaker, to provide a U.S. and global economic overview of past, current and future trends. “The worst is over. Stocks are going up, and they will keep going up,” Siris said. “However, we are not creating jobs and we aren’t re-inventing our economy, so people in other countries are moving ahead of us.” A panel of fragrance industry experts also gave presentations to highlight their economic outlook for the last quarter and going forward. Susan Babinksy, senior vice president of consumer products for Kline Group, told guests that business is
moving in the right direction, with the most improvement showing in specialty stores and the online sector. “Department stores are holding steady, but other channels are learning how to compete more successfully,” Babinksy said. Ms. Babinksy called attention to some of the fragrance industry’s “best-in-class,” including Marc Jacobs Bang, Justin Bieber My World, Abercrombie & Fitch Fierce and Ralph Lauren Big Pony. She also addressed the success of brands like Old Spice and Axe because of their ability to embrace social media marketing and attract consumers. Candace Corlett, president of WSL Strategic Retail, focused on what the future holds for shopping and the lessons that shoppers have learned throughout the recession.
Pochet’s Stephane Vincenti and Pierre-Jean Hellivan (r.) with Rich Nightingale of Arcade.
The Fragrance Foundation’s Terry Molnar and Mary Ellen Lapsansky with Jessica Barlow of Beauté Prestige International (c.).
SEPHORA’S ENDLESS COLOR BLOCKBUSTER For the past five years, Sephora has transformed the art of holiday gifting with its Blockbuster Palette, a fullyloaded makeup kit with a variety of shades and textures to create an endless amount of looks. This year, Sephora created their biggest palette ever, the Endless Color Blockbuster Collector’s Edition 2010, with 187 makeup products in a travel-friendly case that pays homage to the classic Sephora shopping bag.
Containing 98 iridescent effect eyeshadow shades, 70 shiny lip glosses, six cream eyeliners, two lip liners, three eyeliners, three blushes, mascara and four applicators, it is $48.00 and will be available for a limited time only during the holiday season at Sephora stores and sephora.com. ■CW “Shoppers are looking online for the best prices, sticking to brands they can afford and they are willing to try products that cost less,” Corlett said. “Consumers now shop to live, not live to shop.” Representing The Conference Board, economist Ken Goldstein discussed his research and analysis on recent economic trends and what it means for business in the U.S. “We’re in the process of a big transformation,” Goldstein said. “We’re likely to see a very cold January and February, but by March and April we should be seeing some thaw.”
P&G’s Andrew Wong and John Habbouch.
■CW november 29, 2010
BULLETIN KATY’S PURRFECT SCENT -Continued from Page 229
Fans waited in line to meet Katy, purchase the perfume and hear her discuss the making of Purr. Clowns performed for fans outside the tent with streamers, bubbles and puppets, and men juggled purple balloons and balls while guests waited in line.
continue to strive for higher value and quality with each one,” said Janet Taake, senior vice president of merchandising for Ulta. “We believe that Nest has allowed Ulta and our private label strategy to reach the next plateau by providing sensory pleasure for our customers.”
BEVERLY HILLS LAUNCHes FRAGRANCE
The Katy Perry “Purr” tent in Greeley Square.
Tents and balloons advertising “Purr” and “Katy Perry,” were set up around 9:00 am and fans lined the streets for most of the afternoon. To celebrate the launch, a VIP party was held the same night at The Bowery Hotel. Guests mingled with Katy over cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, congratulating her on her recent marriage to actor Russell Brand, the success of her fragrance launch and her latest single “Firework,” sitting pretty at #2 on the iTunes Top 100 list.
KRAFT MOVES TO SHAPE -Continued from Page 229
report to David Pecker, president, chairman and CEO of American Media Inc. “I’m confident that Tara will produce a fresh, well-rounded magazine that will maintain Shape’s respective voice, while adding a greater lifestyle sensibility to the brand,” Pecker said.
NEST CREATES COLLECTION FOR ULTA -Continued from Page 229
collection, created under the Nest Private Label division, is available in eight popular scents in a 7 oz. single votive for $14.50 and a 13.5 oz. three-wick votive for $19.50. “We have offered several home fragrance collections in the past and
november 29, 2010
The City of Beverly Hills, JT Brands, and the Beverly Hills Chamber of Commerce have teamed up to launch a fragrance collection that carries the Beverly Hills name and trademark. Firmenich perfumers developed scents incorporating plants and flowers native to Beverly Hills, and architect Zoltan Pali of Studio Pali Fekete designed the bottle. The launch includes a trio of signature scents, “Must Have,” “Rodeo Dr.” and “Iconic,” that portray the various moods and activities of a typical Beverly Hills woman. The fragrances are available beginning this month in select retailers in the U.S., France, United Kingdom and Dubai.
M·A·C ME OVER! CONTEST LAUNCHES NATIONWIDE
M·A·C Cosmetics launched their first national contest, M·A·C Me Over! on November 15, to tap into its fan base in search of the official faces for its fall color collection. Makeup addicts have until December 20 to log on to macmeover.com and submit a photo and blurb, or video of themselves that describes their unique style and why they should win the contest. Six winners will be selected by James Gager, creative director for M·A·C Cosmetics Worldwide, and announced in August 2011. They will be flown to New York City where they will have the opportunity to have their pictures taken by an award-winning photographer, which could possibly appear in M·A·C stores and counters throughout the world.
5-3-1932 – 11-1-2010 Alice McKnight passed away on November 1 after a long battle with cancer. She began her career as a cosmetics buyer at the Popular Dry Goods department store in El Paso, Texas. Alice eventually became its merchandise manager for cosmetics, stationery and intimate apparel. In the spring of 1969, Richard Salomon, chairman of Charles of the Ritz, tapped Alice to join the company to head its Yves Saint Laurent brand for the launch of Opium. In 1973, she left Charles of the Ritz to start her own business, A. McKnight, Inc., which produced catalogs and inserts for major U.S. department stores. Later on, Alice expanded her company to assist small companies in marketing their products. In the early 80s, she became the president of Calvin Klein Cosmetics. In addition to her cosmetic accomplishments, she became very successful in real estate. Her radiant smile, magnetic personality and sharp mind, along with her kind heart, will always be fondly remembered.
NEWPRODUCTS GUERLAIN Kiss Kiss Gloss Category: Makeup Launch: January 2011 Claims: Lips get drenched in color and moisture with an extreme waterproof shine agent that lasts for up to two hours leaving lips radiant, soft and comfortable. Stats: $30.00