Beauty Fashion May 2012

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MAY 2012

The new age-defying collection from AHAVA

© 2010 Estée Lauder Inc. © 2011 Estée Lauder Inc.

Imagine having nothing to hide.

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Redness. Acne marks. Dark spots. Uneven skintone.

Even Skintone Illuminator The first fast-acting Serum from Estée Lauder Research to dramatically reduce the look of redness, acne marks and dark spots. Instantly, redness is reduced, skin looks radiant. In a clinical test, 62% of women showed a significant improvement in skintone—in just 2 weeks. Over time, skin looks noticeably clearer, brighter and more even-toned. Proven gentle and effective for all ethnicities. Oil-free formula.


MAY 2012 • VOLUME 96 • NUMBER 5





The new age-defying collection from AHAVA

On the cover:

Age-defying ingredients from the earth’s greatest source of beauty. For over 20 years, AHAVA has been responsibly harvesting Dead Sea ingredients to bring you the finest in nature-inspired skincare. Powering the entire range is our exclusive Osmoter™, a perfectly balanced formulation of Dead Sea minerals that effectively replenishes, rehydrates and recharges the skin. AHAVA combines these precious Dead Sea minerals with rare ingredients from the Himalayas to create the Extreme collection—breakthrough formulas that revitalize aging skin by significantly reducing wrinkle depth, enhancing firmness and restoring youthfulness. The collection includes: Extreme Night Treatment – 91% saw a reduction in facial lines and wrinkles* Extreme Day Cream – 98% saw an improvement in their appearance* Extreme Firming Eye – 86% said their eye zone looked younger* *Tests were performed over 4 weeks on 47 volunteers by an independent institution under the supervision of a professor of dermatology.




Bond No. 9 Launches In Brazil


21 Days Of Beauty At ULTA


Sephora + Pantone® Team Up



The Beauty Flash


Industry Ear


Art Of Packaging Award To Shiseido


Denton Sets Course For Erno Laszlo


Esxence The Scent Of Excellence


As I See It -Wendy Liebmann


Cosmetics In Colombia


Beauty And Personal Care Pros Meet At HBA


Making The Connection CEW Zooms In On Social Media

MAY 2012



© 2012 BY BEAUTY FASHION. No reproduction of material contained herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.

MAY 2012 • VOLUME 96 • NUMBER 5



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Cutting-Edge Brand Tweezerman Sharpens Tools’ Focus Milestones Roger&Gallet The Brand Celebrates 150 Years


On The Avenue


Impressions From Germany -Heide Kuhn-Winkler


Top Notes For Him


Launched The Year In Men’s Fragrances


First Look Trés Chic


First Look White Lightning


First Look By The Sea




San Francisco Beat -Raphaella Barkley






South Florida Scene -Kay Renz






They say it’s about spring flowers this time of year, but in the beauty business, it’s more about who is going to get Avon in the latest mega M&A activity. I, for one, do not think Coty is out of the game and that many Avon shareholders were happy about the lack of dialogue. I don’t believe this is the last we will hear of this, and there certainly will be other suitors to come forward that are waiting in the wings. Meanwhile, it’s now time for the industry’s awards season. With CEW’s Beauty Awards and The Fragrance Foundation’s FiFi® Awards book-ending the third weekend this month, I think that more is more, and this will attract both media coverage and consumer interest—and that is win-win. And not that we are ignoring Mother’s Day, but we are happy to see a spike in the men’s category with an increase in activity that has not been seen in a couple of years—dare we say men are hot again? With all of this in mind, please check out the buzz of in-store activity that appears in this issue with the new CHANEL counter at Bloomingdale’s (on page 31) and 21 days of Beauty at ULTA (on page 37). I will see you next month with our extensive coverage of the awards.

George Ledes President and CEO

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CHANEL Debuts Espace Parfums At Bloomingdale’s 59th Street

CHANEL’s Evelyn Couzijn, Christine Dagousset, Michelle Henry (c.) and Joyce Green (r.) with Bloomingdale’s Howard Kreitzman, Francine Klein and Richard Mast at the ribbon-cutting for CHANEL’s Espace Parfums

Bloomingdale’s 59 th Street welcomed CHANEL’s Espace Parfums to its beauty floor on March 23 with a ribbon-cutting by executives of the retailer and the beautymaker. This elegant new installation presents innovative features such as ceramic blotters in the Olfactive Bar, which is fitted with chairs where customers may interact with fragrances. A gift-wrap counter provides a complimentary service for customers.

Ms. Dagousset and CHANEL’s Kate Shone experience fragrances with ceramic blotters at Espace Parfums’ Olfactive Bar.

Ms. Green with CHANEL’s Christina Vincente, Amy Merkel and Karen Housman

This installation “allows the Sales Associate to build a relationship with the customer,” declared Bloomingdale’s Francine Klein, Executive Vice President/GMM for Cosmetics and Fragrances. “[Espace Parfums] is a great example of CHANEL’s special partnership with Sonya Menon and CHANEL’s Debra Maddalena B l o o m i n g d a l e ’s . Th e Bloomingdale’s (4th r.) with Mr. Kreitzman, Ms. Housman, Ms. Dagousset, boutique’s environment Ms. Couzijn, Ms. Henry, Ms. Green and Ms. Klein at the iconic CHANEL flacon engages the customer.” ® 2012 FiFi CHANEL’s Christine Dagousset, Executive Finalists’ Breakfast Vice President, Fragrance and Beauté affirmed that Espace Parfums permits “every customer to discover fragrance in a unique way.” Ms. Dagousset reported that Les Exclusifs De CHANEL is #2 in the Fragrance Department. She credits the Henri Bendel’s Fragrance CHANEL team at Bloomingdale’s 59 th Department Makeover Street for achieving that ranking and added, “It’s all about the people.” “Fragrance is now front and center at CEW Beauty Bloomingdale’s 59 th Street, thanks to Awards CHANEL,” noted CHANEL’s Senior Vice A fragrance gets a complimentary gift-wrap. President National Sales, Joyce Green. BF


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Oscar Pistorius. A modern hero, an exceptional athlete Discover more at














JOHN G. LEDES EXECUTIVE OFFICE 16 E. 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 Telephone: 212-840-8800 Fax: 212-840-7246

BEAUTY FASHION EVENTS CALENDAR SUBJECT (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro

(M) (P) (R) (S) (T)

Meeting Press Trip Reception Seminar Trade Show

ADMISSION DETAIL (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available * Phone numbers provided are for further information.


Fashion Group International Beauty Symposium Hilton Hotel • NYC 11:15 AM (S) (TA) (212) 302-5511


CIBS Ladies Day Spring Luncheon New York Hilton • NYC 11:30 AM (R) (IO)

MAY 13 -14

The Makeup Show NYC Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC (T) (TA)

MAY 16 - 17

Luxe Pack New York Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC (T) (212) 274-8508

MAY 17 - 19

Organic Monitor Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Intercontinental New York Barclay NYC (S)

MAY 17

Fashion Institute of Technology Master’s Program Capstone Presentations & Graduation Reception (Class of 2012) FIT • NYC 5:00 PM Open to the Public (A) (TA) RSVP:

Beauty Fashion FiFi Cocktail Party Doubles • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (IO)

MAY 18

Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Awards Luncheon Waldorf=Astoria • NYC 11:00 AM (A) (TA) (646) 929-8026

CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM

JUNE 17 - 18

The Makeup Show Chicago Venue One • Chicago IL (T) (TA)

JUNE 19 - 21

MAY 21

Fragrance Foundation 2012 FiFi Awards Alice Tully Hall • NYC 6:00 PM (TA) (212) 725-2755

HBA Global Expo & Conference Javits Center • NYC (T) (609) 759-7603


MAY 22

Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce On Trend Excursion with Trendincite’s Amy Marks-McGee and Takasago’s Jeanine Pedersen

MAY 30

Clarins Million Meals Concert for FEED Alice Tully Hall Lincoln Center • NYC 8:00 PM (TA)


CIBS Joe Baroncini Memorial Golf Outing Ballyowen Golf Club • Hamburg NJ (TA)

ICMAD Annual Meeting/CITY Awards Presentation NYC (A) (M) (TA) (847) 991-4499


Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce Annual Open Golf Outing Farmstead Golf & Country Club • Lafayette NJ 1:30 PM (732) 922-0500


CIBS Summer Luncheon Central Park Boathouse • NYC 12:00 PM (R) (TA)



Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce Woman of the Year Dinner Chart House • Weehawken NJ 5:00 PM (R) (732) 922-0500

JUNE 12 - 14

World Perfumery Congress MGM Grand Hotel • Mashantucket CT (M) M AY 2 0 1 2 /



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CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM


CIBS Monthly Luncheon The Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM

of Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. © 2012 Pacific Bioscience Laboratories, Inc. Clarisonic is a registered trademark and Mia 2 is a trademark

Clear skin. We all want it, and dermatologists know how to get it. That’s why so many of ® them use Clarisonic cleansing in their practices. Introducing the Clarisonic Acne Clarifying Collection, a gentle yet powerful, one-step cleansing regimen that pairs the patented sonic technology of Mia 2™ with our Acne Cleansing brush head and our Acne Daily Clarifying Cleanser. MIA 2 This Sonic Skin Cleansing System cleanses 6X better than your hands alone and features 2 speeds for customized cleansing.

ACNE CLEANSING BRUSH HEAD Velvet-like bristle tips deliver concentrated flushing of the pores to provide an ultra-gentle cleansing action that’s safe for use on acne-prone skin.

ACNE DAILY CLARIFYING CLEANSER Specially formulated with 2% salicylic acid to clear and prevent blemishes, while vitamins and botanicals help reduce the appearance of redness.

See why the future of acne has never been clearer at

Available exclusively at Sephora, select physicians and spas.


Italy Simona Barello Fax: +39-06-59887673

Marc Rosen

France Sarah Colton Fax: 011-331-45885386

UK Lorraine Wilson-Morris

Australia Andrea Ferrari

Brazil Fernanda Bonifacio

Germany Heide Kuhn-Winkler Fax: 011-49-621-400-6065

Spain Julia Rossi


Seattle, WA Mary Elizabeth Cronin tel.: (206) 284-8998

Raleigh, NC Bridgette A. Lacy tel.: (919) 872-4234

Boston, MA Brittany Jasnoff tel.: (617) 262-9700

Colorado Hilary Martin tel.: (303) 499-6244 fax: (303) 499-6245

Chicago, IL Lisa D. Lenoir tel.: (773) 643-0238

Dallas/Fort Worth, TX Normita Joven tel.: (214) 504-6157

Washington, DC Bernadette Lacy tel.: (571) 451-4187

Houston, TX Mary Sit tel./fax: (713) 973-6798

Richmond, VA Emily Kirkpatrick

Los Angeles to La Jolla, CA Lynn D. Ludlam tel.: (760) 295-6999

Atlanta, GA Toni M. Lublin tel.: (404) 874-6998

San Francisco, CA Raphaella Barkley tel.: (775) 849-7724

South Florida Kay Renz

Experience the excitement of our creative process; from discovery through development, to the emotional pleasure and celebration of the final product. Join us and enjoy the journey.


Avon Products Inc.’s Board of Directors has appointed Sherilyn McCoy as Chief Executive Officer. Ms. McCoy assumes leadership of Avon following 30 years at Johnson & Johnson, where she was the Vice Chairman of the company’s Pharmaceutical, Consumer, Corporate Office of Science & Technology and Information Technology divisions. Avon’s former CEO Andrea Jung will continue to serve the company as Executive Chairman. The first stand-alone issue of Cosmopolitan for Latinas, a new women’s lifestyle publication targeted at Englishspeaking Latinas, has hit newsstands nationwide. Michelle Herrera Mulligan, formerly the Managing Editor of, is the magazine’s Editor-in-Chief. Donna Kalajian Lagani, SVP, Publishing Director and Chief Revenue Officer of Cosmopolitan, will oversee the brand’s advertising and marketing efforts.

Shiseido Americas Corporation (SAC), the US subsidiary of Tokyo-based Shiseido Co. Ltd., announced the promotion of Pankaj Gupta to Executive Vice President, Finance & Operations and Chief Financial Officer. Mr. Gupta had previously been the Senior Vice President of Finance and Operations for NARS Cosmetics, a division of SAC. Thomas Seeger-Helbach has been named the new Managing Director of MÄURER & WIRTZ. Mr. SeegerHelbach, previously the Director of Marketing & New Business, is returning to the company after a year as the Head of Marketing & Communication for skincare company Dr. Babor.

Target Corporation has named Jeffrey Jones as the company’s Executive Vice President and Chief Marketing Officer. Most recently, Mr. Jones served as partner and President of McKinney, an advertising agency based in Durham, NC. Prior to McKinney, Mr. Jones held several leadership positions at Gap, Inc. Robertet Fragrances announces the appointment of Jennifer Powderly as the new Marketing Director. With over 20 years of experience, Ms. Powderly has worked for Bath & Body Works, Avon Products, Elizabeth Arden and Guerlain. The Fragrance Foundation has announced that Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel will be inducted into the 2012 FiFi® Hall of Fame during the 40th annual FiFi® Awards on May 21. The award is voted on by the Foundation’s Board of Directors and is presented to an individual who has brought extraordinary ingenuity, creativity, dedication and inner resources to bear, not only to their company’s success, but to the fragrance industry as a whole. Cosmoprof Asia will hold its 17th edition from November 14-16 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. M AY 2 0 1 2 /

The L’ORÉAL-UNESCO For Women in Science partnership recognized five exceptional women Scientists from around the world with the 2012 L’ORÉAL-UNESCO Award in Life Sciences. The awards ceremony took place on March 29 at UNESCO Headquarters in Paris. Professor Bonnie Bassler, Howard Hughes Medical Institute Principal Investigator, Department of Molecular Biology at Princeton University, was awarded as the 2012 Laureate for North America. Givaudan has launched its Sustainability Report 2011 entitled Making Progress Together. The report, externally assured by auditors Ernst & Young, confirms the progress Givaudan has made against its 2020 operational targets. Against 2009 baselines, water efficiency has improved by 13.8%; energy efficiency has improved by 7.8%; and CO2 emissions have reduced by 12.8%, per tonne of product. The company has also seen a 44% reduction in the rate of Lost Time Injuries across all manufacturing sites. For the sixth consecutive year, Kao has been named one of the World’s Most Ethical Companies 2012, announced by Ethisphere Institute. 16

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Total Beauty Media Group announces the launch of “The Week in Beauty,” a new web video series featuring the latest beauty news. The series will air weekly on and will be distributed via the TotalBeautyTV online channel. “The Week in Beauty” host gives viewers beauty news from the week, including new product releases, private sales, gifts-with-purchase and giveaways, with a behind-the-scenes, newsroom feel.



years of Creativity, Innovation & Beyond

JUNE 19-21, 2012 Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, NYC

HBA Global is celebrating 20 years! To mark this very special year, HBA will provide a variety of new onsite activities, pavilions and tools to assist you and your needs in an ever changing competitive marketplace, which include:

• NEW online appointment making feature for exhibitors and attendees! • Enhanced New Product Showcase in prime location on HBA Global’s show floor. • New SPLASH! Pavilion showcasing the best in emerging brands. • Innovation Pavilions, showcasing suppliers, education, networking opportunities all in one area! • Design Hot Spots — a new area for inspiration, innovating materials to further develop creativity and ideas.

Celebrate with us and register for your complimentary Exhibits Hall Pass at with priority code: PBFT

For more information and updates visit us online at

INDUSTRY EAR Just the Numbers

Janet Gurwitch, Creator of Laura Mercier Cosmetics, will be a special presenter at the 7th annual Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD) Cosmetic Innovators of The Year - CITY Awards, which honor the year’s most innovative products, packaging and advertising/marketing concepts. The ICMAD CITY Awards will be revealed during ICMAD’s 39th annual meeting on June 20 at the Manhattan Penthouse in New York City. L’Oréal announced that the undergraduate team from New York University won the US National Finals of the L’Oréal Brandstorm 2012, its international marketing case comMembers from team Dolce de Tre petition. Four student teams from around the country had the assignment to create and imagine a new iconic and innovative product or product range for The Body Shop, while respecting and reflecting the brand’s values. drom Fragrances has recently hired Nicole Gesche as Human Resources Manager. Ms. Gesche joins the company from CARDIS Reynolds. To mark the 140th anniversary of Shiseido’s founding in 1872, the company will hold a series of exhibitions introducing its corporate

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton recorded a 25% increase in first quarter 2012 revenue to 6.6 billion Euros. In Perfumes & Cosmetics, organic revenue growth stood at 9% in the first quarter of 2012. Like-for-like, for first quarter 2012, the sales growth of the L’Oréal group was +6.4%. culture in Greece and Switzerland showcasing key milestones over the course of Shiseido’s 140-year history. The events are intended to enhance Shiseido’s brand image and boost recognition in the two countries where Shiseido’s overseas subsidiaries recently started sales. announces the winners of its third annual Awards. Nearly 300,000 consumer votes were cast during the month of March to recognize the best products and tools in 63 categories across face, body, makeup and hair. To see the 2012 Total Beauty consumer product picks, visit awards2012.

Harper’s Bazaar Publisher and Chief Revenue Officer Carol Smith’s sales pitch includes a two-minute video extolling the magazine’s 145-year history with such past Editors as Carmel Snow, Diana Vreeland and Liz Tilberis. “The marketplace is being informed of the value of our continuity,” says Ms. Smith. “Designers are always looking for precedents that we established in making Harper ’s Bazaar the preeminent upscale women’s fashion magazine.” Steve Cohn, Editor in Chief, Media Industry Newsletter

MIN’S Monthly Boxscores Source: Media Industry Newsletter <<>> 2012. Title

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Breakfast At Bergdorf’s

Madonna At Macy’s

The beauty press was invited to preview new products and catch up on news of cosmetics and fragrances at Bergdorf Goodman. The retailer hosted a breakfast where representatives of brands on the Beauty Level presented their color, skincare and fragrance collections.

Bergdorf Goodman’s Mallory Andrews and Pat Saxby greet Beauty Editors.

Thirdman’s Jean-Christophe Le Grévès with Bergdorf Goodman’s Diana Yasnis

Fournier Communications’ Marie-Laure Fournier with Orlane’s Kasumi Ito showcases Orlane’s Anti-Wrinkle Care SPF 30 Sunscreen.

Coty’s Bernd Beetz with Madonna

Coty Prestige’s Catherine Walsh with Madonna

Ms. Yasnis and Bergdorf Goodman’s Elizabeth Secrest

100th Anniversary Of Titanic Loss

Ida and Isidor Straus’ descendants: Mara Schwartz, Melinda Schwartz, Laurie McKean, Pam Straus Haber, Callie Schwartz and Chris Straus

Ida and Isidor Straus, members of the family that owned Macy’s, lost their lives on the Titanic. On the 100th anniversary of the ship’s sinking, Straus descendants and the Straus Historical Society gave a reception at Macy’s to honor Ida and Isidor Straus. Family memorabilia and artifacts were on display, including a letter written by Ida Straus while aboard the Titanic at its stop in France before the tracic voyage to America.

Madonna showcases Truth or Dare.

On April 12, Madonna introduced her new fragrance, Truth or Dare, at Macy’s/Herald Square in Manhattan. The first 200 customers, who purchased the exclusive $151.00 all access Truth or Dare package, received a VIP pass to attend the event. Along with 1.7 oz. and 2.5 oz. sizes of Eau de Parfum Spray and a 6.7 oz. Body Lotion, the package included a collector’s edition T-shirt, deluxe version of Madonna’s new album, MDNA and the Truth or the Dare documentary on Blu-ray disc. (Continued on page 55)

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on the avenue


The latest in men’s fragrance and skincare appears on store shelves this spring. Thierry Mugler A*Men Pure Shot Eau de Toilette Spray Inspired by the strength and achievements of Oscar Pistorius, Paralympic Games champion and future competitor in the London Olympics, A*Men Pure Shot aims to boost the adrenaline level of the wearer. The woody, fresh scent begins on an invigorating top note of freezing mint and juniper bay, which develops into a heart of spicy white pepper notes. Sequoia wood and patchouli combine together for a drydown fit to summon one’s inner champion. A*Men Pure Shot is available at Nordstrom, Thierry Mugler Parfum retailers and Price: 3.4 oz., $85.00

AHAVA Kit for Men For the man on-the-go, this travel kit packs a punch with skincare essentials from AHAVA’s recently launched men’s range. The kit contains a .68 oz. Exfoliating Cleansing Gel, 3.4 oz. Foam Free Shaving Cream and .5 oz. Soothing After-Shave Moisturizer—all in an attractive polyester carrier. It is available at Price: $35.00

Viktor & Rolf SpiceBomb Eau de Toilette Infusing the power of fragrance with dynamite, the seductive scent of SpiceBomb simultaneously intertwines two fragrance accords for a blast of masculinity. SpiceBomb’s Explosive Accord fuses the zesty elements of bergamot, grapefruit, elemi and pink pepper together, while a spicy combination of chili pepper and saffron join with sensual leather and tobacco to form the Addictive Accord. The result is a dueling blend of powerful desire. Viktor & Rolf SpiceBomb Eau de Toilette is available exclusively at Nordstrom and Price: 1.7 oz., $75.00 M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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Top Notes For Him

Top Notes For Him Bond No. 9 New York I LOVE NEW YORK For Fathers Bond No. 9’s latest collaboration with the I LOVE NEW YORK Eau de Parfum campaign comes in the form of a fresh woody Eau de Parfum created with him in mind. The Empire State-inspired scent starts with a fresh burst of spirited basil lime and coriander which cascades into a rich heart that combines lavender, sage and grapefruit blossom. Treemoss, musk and ambroxan form the masculine base of the fragrance. The royal blue flacon features the signature Bond No. 9 token along with the iconic I LOVE NEW YORK emblem. The scent is available on June 1 at Bond No. 9 stores, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom and Price: 50 ml, $105.00; 100 ml, $175.00

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Sport Eau de Toilette

ZIRH Scrub Aloe Facial Exfoliator

The energy and intensity of extreme sports has been captured within Issey Miyake’s latest scent creation. L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Sport invigorates the wearer as its top note of bergamot and grapefruit evokes the crisp freshness of high altitudes and open air. The spicy heart of nutmeg develops into the fragrance’s earthy base comprised of smoky vetiver root and cedar. L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Sport is also offered in a 6.7 oz. All-Over Shampoo and Deodorant Stick. The range is available at specialty and department stores nationwide.

ZIRH’s facial scrub contains a nourishing blend of fossilized plants that work to buff away dull surface skin for a smoother appearance. Irritations are treated with the healing powers of aloe vera that also promotes new skin growth and increases hydration to counter the signs of aging. Surface oils are normalized by sage, which works to clean and purify the skin. The ZIRH Scrub Aloe Facial Exfoliator is available on Price: 100 ml, $20.00

Price: 1.6 oz., $59.00; 3.3 oz., $79.00

EAU DE LACOSTE L.12.12 Rouge Eau de Toilette Taking inspiration from the iconic LACOSTE L.12.12 shirt created by René Lacoste in the 1920s, the fragrances in the EAU DE LACOSTE L.12.12 range—including Blanc, Bleu and Vert—all correspond to a particular mood for the wearer to embody. The latest in the collection, EAU DE LACOSTE L.12.12 Rouge represents a masculine energy that is fueled with excitement and vitality. An initial blast of iced red tea, spicy mandarin liqueur and juicy mango forms the top note that develops into a lively heart of Madagascan black pepper, Indian ginger and Guatemalan cardamom. The scent settles on an aromatic woody base note of acacia wood, golden Laos benzoin and labdanum. It is available at Macy’s, Dillard’s, Bloomingdale’s, Sephora and ULTA. Price: 30 ml, $39.00; 100 ml, $62.00 (Continued on page 44) M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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The Year In Men’s Fragrances

Beauty Fashion has taken note of these men’s fragrances that launched throughout the year.

Gucci Guilty Pour Homme Eau de Toilette

Yves Saint Laurent L’Homme Libre Eau de Toilette

Encapsulating the entrancing energy of the man who exudes confidence, the fresh and spicy notes of Gucci Guilty Pour Homme develop into a sensual base of patchouli, sandalwood, cedar and amber.

Fresh basil and the spiciness of nutmeg and pink pepper coalesce with the sensual depth of vetiver, leather and patchouli to create the infinite allure of L’Homme Libre.

1.6 oz., $60.00; 3 oz., $77.00

1.3 oz., $45.00; 2 oz., $59.00; 3.3 oz., $77.00

Bond No. 9 New York New York Oud Eau de Parfum A modern take on traditional oud, New York Oud gives this Old World scent a renewed spirit of adventure. The rose bouquet that forms the rich heart unfolds to a base of musky teakwood and earthy vetiver—an irresistible blend of East meets West.

John Varvatos Star USA Eau de Toilette The fresh woody scent of John Varvatos Star USA has a distinctly suave, rock ‘n’ roll edge with notes of cedrat, blue spruce, belambre and tonka bean.

50 ml, $240.00; 100 ml, $330.00

50 ml, $55.00; 100 ml, $70.00

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LAUNCHED Calvin Klein ETERNITY for men summer Eau de Toilette

David Beckham Homme Eau de Toilette

Inspired by a setting tting sun’s illumination on glistening ocean waters, the fruit and floral notes off ETERNITY for men summer er reveal a base of white musks, usks, tonka bean and heliotrope. otrope.

David Beckham Homme captures the ambition, success and confidence of the famed soccer star with a distinctly masculine scent featuring notes of woods and spices.

3.4 oz., $58.00 00

.5 oz., $17.83; 1 oz., $25.00; 1.7 oz, $33.00

An Original Penguin Eau de Toilette Spray The Original Penguin brand’s first foray into fragrance, this crisp, spicy scent dries down on a note of earthy patchouli, tonka bean and dark musk—for an aroma that is decidedly retro-cool. New York Yankees Eau de Toilette

1.7 oz., $50.00; 3.4 oz., $65.00

The first official fragrance of the iconic baseball team recreates the spirit and energy of America’s pastime with an invigorating blend of bergamot, clary sage and ivy leaves combined with the strikingly masculine addition of woody notes.

Guess Seductive Homme Eau de Toilette Created to seduce the Guess brand’s signature bombshell woman, Guess Seductive Homme embodies a free-spirited and confident sensuality with notes of fresh spices and earthy wood tones.

1.7 oz., $49.00; 3.4 oz., $62.00

1 oz., $39.00; 1.7 oz., $49.00; 3.4 oz., $65.00

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hiseido received the Art of Packaging Award, which is presented by Pratt Institute and Luxe Pack at a private club in Manhattan on April 17. The event supports the Marc Rosen Scholarship and Education Fund for Packaging by Design at Pratt Institute, as well as Pratt’s scholarships for graduating packaging design students. This year’s gala raised $300,000 to boost the total to more than $3.5 million since that event was founded 23 years ago. Supermodel Carol Alt was the evening’s host.

Shiseido Co. Ltd.’s Katsuhiko Shibuya and Shiseido Cosmetics America’s Heidi Manheimer with Marc Rosen of Marc Rosen Associates

Pratt Institute’s Mike Pratt and Thomas Schutte with Mr. Rosen

Luxe Pack’s Nathalie Grosdidier (c.) with Pochet’s Gerald Walle and François Sabaté

Carol Alt, Ms. Manheimer and Shiseido Cosmetics America’s Jadzia Tirsch

Firmenich’s Frank Voelkl and Ilias Ermenidis (r.) with NARS Cosmetics’ Louis Desazars

Adventi Shanghai’s Hong Mahe with KX Associates’ Annik Klein and Ms. Grosdidier

Mr. Rosen, Ms. Manheimer and Dr. Schutte

Firmenich’s Jerry Vittoria with Pamela Vaile of Pamela Vaile Associates

Ms. Manheimer with Givaudan’s Cosimo Policastro

HDM Design’s Henry de Monclin with Mélina Weinman joins Mr. Walle.

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Mr. Sabaté (c.) with Stephen Spilka and Firmenich’s Theo Spilka

SGD’s Karen Zaccaria, Peter Acerra and Amanda Bishop

C+N Packaging’s Chris Young, Kristen Santoro and Heliane Bastos (r.) with Avon’s Edwin Samson

Arcade Marketing’s Diane Crecca with Ms. Vaile

L’Oréal’s John Banda and Taiki’s Angela Kazimir with Gregory Cummings of SGD

Lighthouse International’s Barbara Gydé with Kevin Marshall of Marc Rosen Associates

Estée Lauder’s Len DeCandia, Carol Ciszak, Harry Bennett and John Downey

Ms. Santoro with Avon’s Eric Lee, Marilee Egan and Mr. Samson

Givaudan’s Karine Marcaulery, Piero Savio and Melissa Gambill

Coty Prestige’s Giovanni Boiano and Kate Sprigg with Arcade Marketing’s Eric Dalbo

Coty Prestige’s John Stabrylla and Meghan Richnak with Heinz Glas’ Maurice Corrigan

The Art of Perfumery’s Ray Matts with RPG’s Bruce Teitelbaum

The Art of Packaging Award, designed by George and John Utley, was accepted by Shiseido Cosmetics America’s CEO, Heidi Manheimer and Shiseido Co., Ltd.’s Creative Director, Katsuhiko Shibuya. Ms. Manheimer praised Pratt Institute for its efforts to educate artists and creative professionals and Marc Rosen for his artistic contribution to packaging design and his impact on thousands of students. Noting that Shiseido is celebrating its 140th anniversary, she affirmed, “Beauty, we believe, is about more than just how something looks. It’s about how it feels. How it sounds. How it functions. How it inspires. How it makes us re-imagine ourselves and our relation to the world around us.” “We seek to practice Omotenashi, translated roughly as ‘welcome,’” she explained. “Omotenashi is about listening with an open mind. About caring with an open heart. About bringing the true spirit of service and hospitality to life. Ultimately, it’s about establishing and nurturing a meaningful relationship with a customer, rather than just pursuing a transaction.” From Shiseido’s bottle design for its very first product, Eudermine, the company recognized that “such a bottle could entice the eye as well as evoke an emotional response,” Ms. Manheimer declared. “Shiseido quickly established a unique relationship with its customers and distinguished itself as an aesthetic leader in packaging design.” (Continued on page 46) M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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tr茅s chic

Hello Kitty Big Pink Bow Fragrance 50 ml, $58.00

Add a touch of glamour with these launches soon gliding onto store shelves.

CHANEL No19 Body Lotion 6.8 oz., $50.00

M路A路C Extra Dimension Eye Shadow in Havana $20.00 Clinique Chubby Stick Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm in Pudgy Peony $16.00, June

OPI Nail Lacquer in The Color of Minnie $8.50, June

Calvin Klein ck one pure color lipstick in Little Liar 700 $16.00

Est茅e Lauder Pure Color High Gloss in Crystal Clear $18.50

* All launches are currently available unless otherwise noted. M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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CHANEL LĂˆVRES SCINTILLANTES Glossimer in Sirocco $28.50


white lightning Bright whites mingle with glistening golds to welcome in the light of summer.

Stila Jewel Eye Shadow in Opal $20.00

Glowing by JLo Eau de Parfum 2.5 oz., $65.00

Givenchy Magic Kajal Eye Pencil Intense Look in Delicate Nude $22.50, June

Urban Decay Eyeshadow in Zephyr $18.00

Calvin Klein C cck one long wear + sshine nail color in point blanc 100 p $14.00 $

Molton Brown Londinium Fine Fragrance 50 ml, $140.00

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Charles Denton is the new owner of Erno Laszlo, which is celebrating its 85th anniversary this year. Beauty Fashion sat down with Mr. Denton to discuss his plans for the brand and how he will build on its heritage. Beauty Fashion: How did your career path lead to your acquisition of the Erno Laszlo brand? Charles Denton: I never intended to be in the beauty industry; I’m just attracted to brands that have a good story to tell. I became involved in the beauty business when I joined Molton Brown as Sales and Marketing Consultant in 1989. At that Charles Denton showcases Erno Laszlo products. time, Molton Brown had a limited line of hair care and color products, but a great following amongst an international clientele. The line had been introduced at Barneys New York by Bonnie and Gene Pressman a few years before. I worked with a wonderful team led by my great mentor and our Chairman, Michael Warshaw, and a fantastic Technical Director, Dale Daxon-Bowes. The three of us formed a partnership that was chemistry in the truest sense; we complemented each other’s skills. We often joked that Dale formulated the products; I marketed them and Michael made sure there was a profit in the middle. When we took over the company, it was in receivership. We built an extraordinary organization, which was acquired by the Kao Corporation in 2005. It was at that point that I retired from the commercial world to volunteer as the Executive Director of Great Ormond Street Children’s Hospital in London. I only recently stepped down from my role there, since I can’t give the amount time required, although, I am hoping to do a bit more of philanthropic work in the United States. My re-introduction to Erno Laszlo occurred during a luncheon with an ex-employee Sarah Rotheram, who is the CEO of Cradle Holdings, the group that previously owned Erno Laszlo. She was very animated about her plans for L’Artisan Parfumeur and Penhaligon’s but touched just briefly on Erno Laszlo. It was clear to me that there wasn’t a great deal of investment going into Erno Laszlo; it was seen more as a cash cow, generating good profits off a very loyal following. I asked a question that I hope I shall never regret: “Do you think they will ever sell the business?” A month later, Sarah asked me to make an offer for Erno Laszlo, which was accepted. RBS Equity Finance in London agreed to support me, so I found myself back in the beauty industry. BF: What was the status of the Erno Laszlo brand when you acquired it? CD: Erno Laszlo has an extraordinarily loyal following with great distribution across the US of about 150 doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Nordstrom. While we have enjoyed these relationships for many years—at Saks since 1957—the brand wasn’t particularly growing. We had a very solid business in Italy with about 120 doors; in Germany, Switzerland and Austria with combination of about 110 doors and a very strong business in Hong Kong where we have four stand-alone shops. M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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I could see a much younger Erno Laszlo customer in the Hong Kong market, and this was also reflected at Holt Renfrew in Canada where we have been exclusive for many years. The average age of a Holt Renfrew customer in Vancouver is 32, whereas the average age of the American customer is 43. There had been very limited innovation in the brand for many years, which communicated to clients that Erno Laszlo was not progressing. There were 127 SKUs, and most of the products were packaged in white and black, which, at point-of-sale, was confusing to the customer. In the environments where we didn’t have dedicated Erno Laszlo Specialists, it was difficult for the customer to understand which products were right for them. BF: Please describe what has guided your selection of product and presentation. Has R&D updated and/or reformulated the Erno Laszlo products? Have new ingredients been sourced that were not available to Dr. Laszlo? CD: Bringing in new products to the range is very important to me, and we plan many innovations over the coming years. I was guided by the philosophy of Erno Laszlo in the reinvention of the line. The products we are introducing reinforce his beliefs, and those that don’t are being deleted. Product selection and presentation have been guided by the desire to make it easier to access the range in a more consumer-friendly way. The new packaging makes it much easier to navigate and self-prescribe. In the past, you were deterred from buying any product until you had gone through a full consultation. While important, this can also be alien to the way people shop today; and it’s intimidating. Customers like to edit their skincare regimes in a much different way; they want the best-inclass and immediate gratification. This is often driven by recommendations from Beauty Editors and bloggers, so it’s important to tease out the hero story behind each product. Too many products, and you can lose your authority. Cleansing and toning are still important, and we want to drive our strategy around them. However, rather than religiously go through the steps one, two, three and four, we look at cleansing and toning and then at the customer’s concern. It’s a small change but an important one. We have not compromised our philosophy and values, but Erno Laszlo has to meet the changes in lifestyle with a range of more user-friendly products that meets those needs, presented in a way people can easily understand. A good example is our vitamin C-10, which has been in the range for many years. It was lost without a story to support it. It’s a great product and now resides under our new Luminous range that focuses on skin radiance. Antiwrinkle regimes are a big and growing category, so these are now placed under our TRANSpHUSE range, and finally the Firmarine collection, our firming line, which

represents about 19% of our revenues, is for people seeking to address the early stages of aging. There are some other influences that have driven the re-launch strategy. We have to be aware that our customers are exposed to negative information about some ingredients, more now than ever with the availability of information through the Internet. A good example is parabens. From the evidence that I have studied, the science that supports the scare stories about parabens is very suspect. However, the consumer’s opinion of parabens is negative, so we have to respect that by reformulating our new products without parabens. BF: Who is the target customer for Erno Laszlo products? CD: While we don’t really target customer groups or a particular age category, there are patterns that form. Certain groups gravitate to different products. Our Firmarine line probably talks to 25-35 year olds; TRANSpHUSE, our anti-wrinkle line, appeals more to the 40-45 year old. The cleansing system can be for a client as young as 14. A lot of teenagers come to the line because they have problems with blemished skin; however, this is not necessarily a youth phenomenon. We also treat many adult clients in their forties and fifties with breakouts. Dr. Laszlo recognized that skin has its own personality and that the physiology of the skin can be informed by the psychology of the individual. It can be programmed and educated. It is interesting that skin doesn’t necessarily have to reflect your age. Our philosophy is to work in synergy with the skin, mimic its behavior and tell it to behave in a different way. This drives our ingredient selection and product formulation philosophy. Our whole range is a tailored approach to a multitude of different skin types. The concerns may vary in different countries, and our products are driven by those concerns. Of course, people have different needs at different times. BF: What is the appropriate distribution for Erno Laszlo products? CD: We have a good platform of retail partners such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Holt Renfrew, so we’re not a brand that is going to have a footprint of 1,000 doors. To support our bricks-and-mortar distribution, we are instead partnering with the department stores’ own Internet sites, and already this is a fast-growing channel for us. The retailers’ online business gives us an opportunity to reach the vast expanse of land between the East and West Coasts where we have no department store representation. I really like the department store environment; it’s great for providing good advice, but they and we need to evolve. Service must remain the most important differentiator, and I would like to see more theater and entertainment. If the retailers or the brands intimidate and are arrogant to the (Continued on page 48)

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Espace Parfums Launches At Bloomingdale’s

59th Street Beauty Fashion asked Christina Vincente, Vice President Creative Services-Store Design & Visual Merchandising, to comment on the design of CHANEL’s Espace Parfums at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street and how it engages the customer with CHANEL’s fragrances. Beauty Fashion: When you were given the concept of Espace Parfums, how did you translate that to the structure of the installation? Christina Vincente: The concept is called “Espace Parfums” and represents the full journey through the world of CHANEL fragrances, including the Les Exclusifs collection. The concept was to create an environment that communicates the breadth of CHANEL’s fragrance expertise as well as a high level of luxury, which is reflected in the choice of high-end materials, finishes, lighting and seating. It also incorporates an intimate space for one-on-one consultation which allows the customer to engage in the brand on a very personal level. BF: What special features were created that are not in other CHANEL fragrance counters? Please describe them in detail, particularly the ceramic blotters in the Olfactive Bar. CHANEL’s Espace Parfums at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street CV: The Olfactive Bar is exclusive to the Espace Parfums concept. It is centered around a full set of ceramic blotters, each infused with one of the full range of CHANEL fragrances. The idea of the blotter came from Jacques Polge, CHANEL Master Perfumer, and Christopher Sheldrake, CHANEL Perfumer, Director of Research and Development, who wished to create an experience for the customer that mirrored their own ritual and gesture of experiencing fragrance through blotters. The idea was to create a distinct departure from the spritzing that is typical in department stores and provide an environment where the experience of fragrance is free of spraying, until the client has made her final selection. The blotters are arranged by olfactive family—Florals, Orientals, etc.—and are the core of the customer’s olfactive journey. As the customer begins to explore, she is presented with blotters individually for consideration. Without (Continued on page 56) M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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ond No. 9 has launched in Brazil at the BrightStar Group’s perfumeries. Recently, Bond No. 9’s Founder and President Laurice Rahme sat down with Beauty Fashion to comment on this new distribution and the profile of the Brazilian customers.

Beauty Fashion: Why did you select São Paulo as your first point of distribution in Brazil? Laurice Rahme: Brazil is one of the major world economies along with China, India and Russia. We know that Brazilians are big consumers of fragrance as Brazil is projected to become one of the top markets for luxury fragrances in Latin America. We chose one of the biggest distributors in Brazil, the BrightStar Group based in São Paulo, which owns its own chain of perfumeries as well as distributes mass, mid-range and upscale products. Not only that, but The BrightStar Group has a fantastic marketing and public relations team that represents and supports the Bond No. 9 brand. In March, Bond No. 9 launched in São Paulo and has a major space and location in Faure and Fragrance, two of the major perfumeries. Both are in shopping malls with the same luxury stores that we have in the US. After Saõ Paulo, the next cities Bond No. 9 will roll out in are in luxury perfumeries in Rio de Janeiro, Paraná and Goiás. After the local market, we will introduce the brand in the Duty Free market. BF: Why is it advantageous to be distributed in Brazil? LR: At Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and in Miami, Brazilians are the best customers. Now, this consumer can purchase our Bond No. 9 fragrances at their perfumeries in Brazil. Because Brazilian customers are Latin, they love rich perfumes, and they tend to use a lot. They like to explore [different fragrances], and they have a fragrance wardrobe. They buy our edgiest, signature fragrances and usually two bottles at once. They are especially fond of Bond No. 9 New York Oud. There is a tremendous amount of wealth in Brazil. For example, the taxi of the rich is a helicopter. There are more helicopters in São Paulo than in any other city of the world. When the ladies go to the beauty salons, they go by helicopter. It’s fascinating; it’s like Hollywood and the movies. BF: How did BrightStar Group execute the launch aunch of your fragrances in Brazil? LR: The BrightStar Group has luxury perfumeries, meries, and they did a beautiful job of the execution [of Bond No. 9 in Brazil]. zil]. I loved the locations of the perfumeries, and we have major space and great location in each store. Internationally, we try to convey one consistent image with our visuals in order to establish brand recognition tion with the consumer. We had beautiful windows in São Paulo forr our launch that looked exactly like our windows in New York. rk. The execution was perfect! We know what our wealthy at is [Brazilian] clients like in New York, and that eat what they see in Brazil. We have had a great he response so far. The first two weeks of the launch have been tremendous for business. g Barbara Kern, Vice President of Marketing at RR Perfumes and Cosmetics told me the company “is delighted with the arrival off the Bond No. 9 brand in Brazil. This is a brand of high luxury, targeted for women who enjoy special fragrances and appreciate te their uniqueness. There, we launched 22 fragrances grances at once in Brazil, a new movement in the international ternational fragrance market.” (Continued on page 56) M AY 2 0 1 2 /



Laurice Rahme attended the launch of Bond No. 9 in São Paulo.


Launches in Brazil



The exhibition floor of Esxence


he Palazzo La Permanente this year was the home of the 2012 Esxence, The Scent of Excellence exhibition held from March 29 through April 1 in Milan. With 150 international exhibitors, this year’s show undoubtedly broke new ground in this ever-growing segment of the niche fragrance market. Not only was there a record number of visitors in attendance, but exhibitor numbers also increased—up 20% from last year— giving this year’s exhibition an unprecedented position in the global fragrance market. With the continued growth in this segment of the market by both consumers and manufacturers, heavyweights such as Creed, Clive Christian and Bond No. 9 view this show as a must for their continued international expansion. “The Esxence 2012 event is an amazing platform for Bond No. 9,” said Laurice Rahme, Founder & President of Bond No. 9. “Each spring it gives us the chance to showcase our latest introductions to a wide range of people, not only buyers, but the press as well. Esxence 2012 showcases the finest artists in the industry, and we are honored to be part of this great event.” Complementing the Pitti show each year in Florence, which is focused on the retailers and their fall launches, Esxence is all about manufacturers and is heavily attended by distributors, bloggers and a broad array of European retailers. Also in attendance this year was industry icon and Author Michael Edwards, who feels this event lends an important insight on the future of the fragrance industry.

Denyse Beaulieu, Author of The Perfume Lover

Parfums YS UZAC’s Vera Yeoh

Michael Edwards, Author of Fragrances Of The World

Rudy Kaufman and Bayly Ledes with Robert Piguet Parfums’ Joseph Garces

Colonial Drug’s Cathy Botindari and Cale’s Silvio Levi

James Heeley of Heeley Parfums

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by Wendy Liebmann Founder and “Chief Shopper” of WSL/Strategic Retail: Global Retail Strategists and Shopping Futurists and Authors of How America Shops®


hat relief when retail sales and unemployment numbers were announced and showed improvement. What’s clear from the small but consistently positive retail sales is that American shoppers are beginning to move on and back to shopping—if only in moderation. That’s the word that defines this new era…moderation. We recently published our How America Shops® MegaTrends 2012 study entitled “Moving On.” This is the biennial study we’ve conducted for 20 years that captures shifts in shoppers’ attitudes and behaviors across established and emerging retail channels— from digital to dollar, from department stores to drug, from mass to specialty to mobile—and product categories, including beauty. In 2012, we see shoppers wiser in ways of extracting value, more reserved about how much they need in their lives and more moderate in their aspirations for material things. They have moved beyond the fear we saw in 2010; they have now come to accept the new state of their world. Of the many findings in the study, four are absolutely essential for beauty brands and retailers to take heed of.

1. IT’S NOT OVER 80% of women believe “their” recession will last another three to five years. It doesn’t matter their income level—everyone agrees it will last longer than they’d anticipated. As much as we’d like to think shoppers are ready to spend as they once did, it is not to be. Emotionally, Americans are not ready. That’s the foundation for your next five years. 2. GETTING BY—HALF DO; HALF DON’T We’ve heard a lot in the past four years about Americans struggling to put food on the table, having to make tough choices. While recent beauty sales results indicate that’s not the case, it’s still important to recognize the underlying concern that many shoppers— beauty and others—still live with. Half (52%) of women told us they can only afford the basics today. No surprise then that all are more focused on low prices and great value than they were two years ago: 75% now say, “It’s important to get the lowest price on most things I buy”—up five points from 2010, and 22 points from 2004. 3. THE INCOME DIVIDE: THE AFFLUENT AND EVERYONE ELSE How much income they have, of course, is key—but not the entire story. Even higher income Americans are not worry-free: 28% of women with annual household incomes of $100,000-$150,000 say they still can only afford the basics. The rude awakening is just how much it takes to feel cushioned in this economy: it’s at least $150,000 for a family to feel secure. Even then—or because of it—these shoppers are committed to getting the lowest prices: one-in-two with incomes $150,000+ say they’re focused on getting the lowest prices on most things every day. 4. MILLENNIALS ARE NO LONGER THE GOLDEN TICKET Hardest hit are the youngest—those just getting started, struggling to find work, paying off student loans, beginning families. One in four women (23%) between the ages of 18 and 34 say they don’t have enough for basics—that’s 10 points higher than Boomers. And eight out of 10 say it’s important to get the lowest price—up 11 points from 2010. NOW WHAT? When more than half the population believes it can only afford the necessities, when people who earn low-to-mid-six figure incomes feel poor, and when the younger population, once a company’s ticket to growth, is no longer able to participate in a growth economy, we have to rethink in the ways we go to market. The challenge now is for beauty companies to add emotional value to products, services and retail experiences to distract shoppers from their search for the lowest price—at least some of the time. This is no time to assume we are out of the proverbial woods when it comes to selling shoppers more beauty. Wendy Liebmann is CEO and “Chief Shopper” of WSL/Strategic Retail, a New York based consultancy that, for 25 years, has helped global brands and retailers—bricks and clicks—build smart retail strategy. BF M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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As I See It






he Colombian Tourist Board has a television commercial that begins, “It is dangerous going to Colombia,” then a very pregnant pause until the remainder of the tag line reads, “you could leave your heart there.” The very clear message is that Colombia is ready for business, and that the days of violence and the infamous drug cartels are a thing of the past. To that end, the Colombian government has hired Proexport Colombia to spearhead their emergence as a vital participant in the world market. Proexport Colombia has positioned itself as the strategic ally for international business owners. It is Colombia’s entity in charge of the promotion of international tourism, foreign direct investment and non-traditional exports. With 18 business offices, Proexport has a global presence, including China, Russia, India, Germany and the United States. Within Colombia itself, there are eight offices, including Medellin, Cartagena, Cali and, of course, the headquarters in Bogotá. Proexport has helped varied companies such as Avon, P&G, Unilever, Kimberly-Clark, Hewlett-Packard and Brookfield establish themselves in Bogotá. In 2012 alone, Colombia will be negotiating 21 international investment agreements. With regard to cosmetics and toiletries, Latin America in general has grown at higher rates than the international average, and Colombian production in this area has doubled in the past ten years. As per J.P. Morgan, “Colombia is the second most attractive country for investment in Latin America in the next three years (second only to Brazil).” Colombia has important competitive advantages that make it a strategic place to do business in the Latin American market—an excellent geographic location for reaching other markets, and a variety of plants (the country has the greatest biodiversity per square kilometer on the planet). These features contribute Waliwa Amazonian Natural Products to making Colombia one Amazon Balm for Lush Lips of the largest cosmetics producers in Latin America. Colombia’s skilled workforce is quite impressive. Bogotá has a workforce of 52,000 college graduates; Medellin, 23,000 and Cali, almost 15,000. The Colombian government supports the creation of the economic, technical, institutional and legal conditions to attract public and private resources for the development of commercial products and The Avon plant in Medellin (Continued on page 49) M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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Beauty And Personal Care Pros Meet At HBA

elebrating 20 years of innovations and creativity, HBA Global Expo & Conference has provided beauty and personal care professionals with an unmatched meeting place to network, learn and discover new products for the entire product development process. This year, HBA Global, June 19-21 at the Javits Center in New York, will offer even more resources, education, design ideas and networking opportunities to help products and brands succeed. “For anyone considering launching a personal care product, HBA is an invaluable source. Between the educational seminars and the exhibition floor, everything they need is there in one spot,” said Karen Young, CEO, The Young Group. “The show not only covers every aspect of the development chain: honing concepts, finding packaging, retail distribution and guerilla marketing, it will have all the experts on hand to answer questions and provide direction.” With an on-trend conference program, new pavilions, exciting show floor features, special events and a 20th Anniversary party, here are some highlights the event has in store for product development teams: Visionary Keynote Panel—to kick-off the event and provide plenty of food for thought for attendees.

SPLASH Pavilion—featuring 30 finished-good products from all over the world that may be the next big things in beauty and personal care. The Young Group’s Karen Young “Today’s beauty consumers have an insatiable hunger for innovation and newness. I’m thrilled to be part of discovering and showcasing the next wave of beauty must-haves,” said Ann Colville Somma, Innovation Consultant & Blogger (Cult of Pretty) and HBA SPLASH Jury Member. Design Hot Spots—this new area will look at the importance of design and go outside the norm of traditional design elements with innovative materials from Material Connexion and inspiration from experts like Trendincite to further develop creativity and ideas. Innovation Pavilions—destination areas on the show floor that spotlight “hot” product development areas. Chicago Paper Tube & Can, which provides sustainable packaging for designer brands and luxury labels, anchors the “Innovations in ECO & Sustainability” Pavilion. Mintel heads up the “Innovations in Anti-Aging Skincare” and will offer daily interactive product demonstrations that showcase the latest technology, active ingredients and positioning claims in anti-aging from around the world. “Innovations in Tubes” will be one-stop-shop for products, education and networking with the Tube Council as anchor and support from leading member companies. Enhanced New Product Showcase—in a prime exhibit location with exhibitors’ latest offerings in formulation, packaging, private label and more. 20th Anniversary & Industry Awards Celebration—featuring cocktails and the International Package Design Awards (IPDA) and attendees’ choice for exhibitor new products and the best of SPLASH, taking place on Tuesday, June 19 from 4–6 pm in the Special Events Hall. TRENDS Spot Theater—unique perspectives from those on the forefront of brand success, including experts in make-up, color, fashion, technology, anti-aging and more. (Continued on page 50) M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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presented bold and beautiful must-haves for spring at its 21 Days of Beauty nationwide March 11 – March 31. The event focused on fresh-faced spring looks and corresponding free gifts-with-purchase, beauty tips, complimentary in-store consultations and live demos from top beauty brand experts. Throughout the 21 Days of Beauty, ULTA Beauty featured two special treats: one Beauty Steal and a Beauty Focus Day. Beauty Steals included special pricing and Buy-1-Get-1-Free offers. Beauty Days offered makeup and skincare specialists, who focused on selected brands each day, providing customized makeup tips, trend updates and skin consultations. Appointments for complimentary makeup and skin consultations were recommended by signing up at the custom- ULTA’s 21 Days of Beauty promotion was highlighted in the stores’ windows. er’s nearest ULTA Beauty store. Vendors who participated in 21 Days of Beauty were: bareMinerals, Benefit, Too Faced, Dermalogica, Kinerase, Bliss, Smashbox, Lorac, Tarte, Murad, Peter Thomas, Napoleon Perdis, Urban Decay, Stila, Laura Geller, Mario Badescu, Roth, Pur Minerals, Cargo, Philosophy, Clarisonic and StriVectin. “It is important to ULTA that we provide a fun, convenient and timely shopping experience. Many of our customers have told us that they like to experiment with new trends and look to us for advice on products and applications,” reported Janet Taake, ULTA’s Senior Vice President of Merchandising. “The 21 Days of Beauty event launched in early spring because that is when our customers were freshening their skincare routines, hairstyles and makeup. We merchandise our stores so that we not only educate our customers about new trends but make it easy for them to get the looks for themselves with products and application suggestions.”

Dermalogica offered skincare consultations.

“With 21 Days of Beauty, we offered a focused opportunity to take advantage of the newest products and services in preparation for the season ahead,” Ms. Taake continued. “Through marketing, we also carried that vibrant store experience onto the Internet, both on our Web site, where the program came to life digitally, as well as through our social media channels. For example, our Facebook and Twitter communities received a steady stream of updates and photos highlighting store specials, beauty trends and product recommendations. The combination of in-store excitement and online interaction made for a very successful event.”

ULTA’s customers took advantage of special beauty treats.

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CEW Zooms In On Social Media C

osmetic Executive Women (CEW) hosted a Women & Men in Beauty Series event on April 19 at the Harmonie Club in New York City. The sold-out event entitled “Behind the Strategies of Social Beauty’s Top Brands” featured a panel discussion that included Rachel Ostrom, Executive Director, Consumer Engagement for Aveda; Alexis Rodriguez, Executive Director, Public Relations for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics and Marisa Thalberg, Vice President, Global Digital Marketing for The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc., focusing on the ways companies are working to connect with consumers in the digital realm and the strong influence technology has on growing a beauty brand. With sales in the social commerce marketplace expected to reach $30 billion within the next five years, according to Forrester The Estée Lauder Companies’ Marisa Thalberg with Aveda’s Rachel Ostrom, Research, it is imperative for companies to have a Bobbi Brown Cosmetics’ Alexis Rodriguez and Jill Scalamandre of Chrysallis social media strategy. The use of social media Web sites, largely Facebook and Twitter, has enabled beauty brands to connect and engage with consumers in their own homes and on their own terms, but, as a relatively new platform, capturing the consumer’s attention has been a process of trial and error. Aveda’s frequent digital strategy meetings strive to find the perfect balance between its four main content concepts—engaging with its fans, building the brand, supporting its eco-friendly mission and product promotion—for maximum appeal. Most significantly, social platforms have made it possible for brands to have a conversation directly with their customers. For Bobbi Brown, listening to its followers is just as much of a component to its online strategy as offering compelling content. The “Bobbi Brown Brings Back Lip Color” Facebook app allowed loyal fans to vote for the return of their favorite discontinued shades. “We acquired new fans on Facebook as people were passionately championing and campaigning for the colors they wanted to return,” enthused Ms. Rodriguez. “It sparked conversation in the social space and created significant purchase anticipation.” The brand saw a high of 25% fan participation with the app. Social media platforms are also powerful in generating awareness for companies’ charitable efforts, which provide another way for the customer to connect with the brand. The Estée Lauder Companies’ Breast Cancer Awareness campaign, the philanthropic focus of the company, adapted its longstanding Global Landmarks Illumination Initiative to Facebook with its “Shine a Light on Breast Cancer” app. The app enables users to share messages of hope and highlight their geographical locations—in the cause’s signature pink hue—on a virtual map. “Social media and social causes are made for each other,” stated Ms. Thalberg. “When it comes to illness, adversity and triumph, the story sharing that ensues is amazing. At its core, this is really social media at its best and purest. It’s powerful, and we’re very proud of this campaign.” Aveda’s environmental efforts found that when reaching the consumer in the digital realm, simplicity was key. The company utilized “promoted tweets” on Twitter for its clean water campaign “to ensure that the message is staying in the newsfeed of the targeted audience,” said Ms. Ostrum. “It doesn’t always have to be over-thought. We created simple messages for users to re-tweet, such as ‘Everybody deserves access to fresh water.’ This simplicity was driving engagement.” From the Twitter campaign, Aveda saw a 30% growth in its followers. (Continued on page 51)

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Making The Connection




color-full event in New York City’s Meatpacking District took place from March 22 to March 30 when Sephora and the global color authority Pantone introduced the Pop-Up Color Shop. The 2012 Color of the Year, Pantone 17-1463 Tangerine Tango, themed the Pop-Up Color Shop, which was modeled after the PANTONE® color book. The pop-up shop showcased images taken by Photographer David Sims. The displays featured the Sephora + Pantone Universe Color of the Year Capsule Collection. “As the world’s color authority for nearly 50 years, partnering with a world-renowned beauty retailer like Sephora just made sense,” said The Sephora + Pantone Color Shop popped up in the Meatpacking Pantone’s Lisa Herbert, Vice President Fashion, District in Manhattan. Home + Consumer. “Together, we can bring fashion-forward color trends, innovative marketing and technology knowhow to beauty customers, instilling the confidence and creativity to choose cosmetic colors that suit their every mood.” Pantone’s first-ever partnership with a beautymaker has provided Sephora with the ability to have a color collection that is ahead of the curve. “Our beauty expertise has united with Pantone’s unparalleled color knowledge to become one authoritative voice at the forefront of color trend products,” affirmed Margarita Arriagada, Senior Vice President of Merchandising for Sephora. “Through our partnerDavid Sims’ visuals sent a beautiful message to visitors at the ship, [the customer] will be Sephora + Pantone Pop-Up Color Shop. introduced to products that Pantone’s Lisa Herbert inspire experimentation and reawaken [their] own passion for color.” The Sephora + Pantone Universe Color of the Year Capsule Collection in Tangerine Tango offered limited-edition SKUs that could be mixed and matched. There was a Collectors Set of Eyeliner, Eye Shadow Quad, Prisma Chrome Blush, Blush Duo, Crème Lipstick and Lip Gloss along with the same SKUs sold separately. Other products in the Tangerine Tango collection were a Brush Set, Makeup Bag, Faux Lash Set and Eyelash Curler. Sephora and Pantone will join in presenting another collection this summer. It will again be evocative of the Pantone color chart with a multi-color palate. Ms. Herbert looks forward to the Pantone/Sephora partnership “lasting a very long time. We will continually be delivering new, exciting makeup collections and new retail SKUs in the Sephora + Pantone Universe Color of the Year concepts.” Capsule Collection

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TWEEZERMAN Sharpens Tools’ Focus


weezerman, “The Beauty Tool Experts,” have expanded from tweezers to a complete range of beauty tools for brows, lashes, manicure and pedicure. Acquired at the end of 2004 by Zwilling J.A. Henckels, manufacturer of premium cutlery, kitchenware, scissors and flatware since 1731, Tweezerman has a loyal professional and celebrity following. Recently, Beauty Fashion sat down with Dr. Cornelia (Conny) Wittke, President and CEO of Tweezerman, to discuss the company’s positioning and how it is expanding its broad mix of products. Beauty Fashion: Since Tweezerman’s acquisition by Zwilling J.A. Henckels, have there been any changes in its positioning and direction? Cornelia Wittke: Since its acquisition by Zwilling J.A. Henckels, Tweezerman has focused on bringing the category to the next level in innovation, internationalization and point-of-sale enhancement. We have brought many new product innovations to the market and also made our products even more attractive by bringing fun and fashion to the brand for the perfect combination of function meets fashion. We launched our first Designer Series in 2009 and have since collaborated with Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Betsey Johnson and Gwen Stefani’s Harajuku Lovers. We have re-launched all our product lines and also launched a completely new line, the Tweezerman Studio Collection, for specialty stores in 2008. We remain very focused on new products as well as packaging and POS enhancements.

BF: Tools have become such an important category. How are you taking advantage of the growing demand for product? CW: Tweezerman, based in Port Washington, New York, is the leading American brand in premium non-electronic beauty tools, and we constantly drive the category through innovation. We are combining function and fashion to bring beauty tools to the next performance level. Our expertise is tools; it’s what we eat, sleep and breathe. We believe in the beauty of precision, but we also appeal to the customer’s emotional side with fashion.

Tweezerman’s Cornelia (Conny) Wittke

BF: What is your current retail distribution? Are you on a TV shopping channel? CW: Our different lines are distributed at different points. Tweezerman began as a brand used by Makeup Artists and professional nail technicians, and our Tweezerman Professional line is targeted for use in nail and beauty salons as well as in beauty supply retailers. The Tweezerman Studio Collection is for prestige distribution in retailers such as Sephora, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Douglas and Harrods. The Tweezerman line in hang packaging is sold at ULTA, and we have a select Tweezerman LTD line for chain drug stores. All our lines are sold at premium price points, but they are clearly differentiated in product mix, look and feel. We have been sold on QVC, presented by our Director of Training and Education, and we are now perfecting that model for future appearances. Although we are sold online, ‘brick-and-mortar’ remains very important for Tweezerman. There is a very important educational element in the ability to touch and experience our products first hand. (Continued on page 53) M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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I recently attended one of Italy’s premiere niche artistic perfume events: Esxence - The Scent of Excellence in Milan. Esxence is an international event that promotes the art of olfactory language and the value and beauty of artistic perfumery. It was held at the stylish Palazzo La Permanente. Top niche and luxury brands from around the world were featured in a four-day extravaganza that was filled to the brim with fragrances, workshops and discussions, all focused on scents. On display was a glittering and fragrant array of new products from large and small niche and luxury lines as well as a sampling of niche skincare lines. This was one of the biggest events of the year—along with Milan Fashion Week—and the response was overwhelming, especially considering the state of today’s worldwide economy. The event kicked off with the exciting and glamorous Black and White Celebration Cocktail Party at the ancient Palazzo Giureconsulti in Piazza Mercanti, the very heart of Milan. Here, elite guests mingled and danced the night away in high fashion with celebrated Perfumers and executives from the fragrance industry. Out on the ancient balcony, the night full of stars, the air warm and magical with lights spotlighting the plaza, the evening was deliciously heady with the lingering of women’s perfumes and masculine colognes that gently circulated throughout the palace. Esxence displayed impeccable and passionate professionalism throughout the entire four days. International glitterati and guests were filled with excitement at the event. This was the biggest and most successful Esxence Robert Piguet Parfums’ Mathieu de to date, with many Vollelongue and Joseph Garces presenting new vendors disthe newest fragrances in the collection playing their latest products to a sold-out venue. The European niche perfumery market, I discovered, has a completely different approach than American perfumery, and I was excited to learn that many niche lines from Europe were making their way to America for distribution.

Photo courtesy of Esxence.


SAN FRANCISCO BEAT Creed’s Erwin Creed with Pierre Dinand and Mr. Garces

Michael Edwards, Mr. Garces, Fragrantica’s Elena Knezhevich and Mark David Boberick from The Perfume Magazine at the “Translating Perfume into Words” panel

Special guests and featured speakers were Michael Edwards, one the world’s leading experts and Author of Fragrances Of The World; Roja Dove, ‘Professor de Parfums,’ Perfumer, and luxury retailer; Co-Founder of Esxence, Silvio Levy; CEO of Beauty Enterprise, Francois Duquesne; French Ambassador Alain Le Roy; British Consul General in Milan Vic Annells and Pierre Dinand, the famous fragrance bottle Designer. One of the many special highlights was a workshop titled “Translating Perfume into Words: Writing about an Unseen Artform,”

Neela Vermeire Créations’ Neela Vermeire with Mr. Edwards

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by Raphaella Barkley



Laura Mercier Beauty Event

Laura Mercier’s Maritza Aldana applies makeup to a customer.

Laura Mercier’s Patrick Johnson and Briana Silva

Patrick Johnson, a Laura Mercier Global Artist, recently paid a visit to Saks Fifth Avenue in Boca Raton, and while he may log many miles meeting and greeting women all over the world, he never tires of learning about women’s thoughts on cosmetics. “I am so excited to see how women wear makeup in each city and why they wear makeup,” explained Mr. Johnson. “There are so many different reasons to wear makeup—from wanting to camouflage a flaw to seeking empowerment. The verbiage changes with each customer, as they all have different wants and needs, but this feedback helps us so much.” South Florida women are not afraid of color, he noted. “This is terrific, as I really see color remaining big for another season or two.” Belle Nouveau i s t h e b r a n d ’s latest color collection with pops of pretty hues for summer. “Blue eyeshadow is back,” said Mr. Johnson. “But it’s not crazy; it has a m o d e r n t w i s t . Mr. Johnson moisturizes a customer’s face. There is also a navy mascara, which makes the whites of your eyes look even whiter—making you look less tired.” The Lip Glace collection offers gorgeous color options, including Camellia, Orange Tulip and Lotus Blossom.

Laura Mercier’s Will Giffen, Michelle Batista and Mr. Johnson

The top sellers in South Florida include the smudgefree Caviar Stick Eye Colour, which is the perfect product for wedding season and for sultry summer days. The Body Bronzing Makeup, with a delectable almond coconut scent, provides a radiant glow. As the Laura Mercier bestsellers were reviewed, Territory Manager Briana Silva introduced Counter Artist Michelle Batista, who had just been recognized in ELLE magazine’s Genius Awards as one of the country’s Top 100 Counter Artists. “It’s a tremendous honor,” Ms. Batista said. “I love what I do.” And with all the gorgeous guests surrounding the counter, it’s obvious they love her too. (Continued on page 54)

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by Kay Renz


by Heide Kuhn-Winkler


At its 58th annual conference in March, the German Perfumery Association introduced Nola Bergner as the new President of the Association. During the evening, the long-time President Reinhard Wolf was honored by representatives of the national and international fragrance industry. He was then named Honorary President. The members of the Perfumery Association also elected Barbara Summerer and Rainer Eiden, in addition to Ms. Bergner, to its Board.

and motivated team that, at the same time, is very industry-experienced,” stated Mr. Wolf. Ms. Bergner added, “As a retailer, with conviction, heart and soul, I look forward to this new challenge. Mr. Wolf has done very much for our industry in all these years. He has set standards and, of course, left large footprints [to fill]. I am convinced that we as a team, with Barbara Summerer, Rainer Eiden and with the support of the Perfumery Association’s Secretary Elmar Keldenich, we’ll be able to build on the successful work and place it on a new basis for communication.” With a four percent growth in 2011, retail perfumery was well above the growth rate when compared to other industries. To maintain and improve upon this is the goal of the new board. An ambitious goal to reach, but it appears quite realistic.

German Perfumery Association’s Elmar Keldenich, Barbara Summerer, Nola Bergner and Reinhard Wolf

This election marked the end an era. Mr. Wolf led the Association for 45 years with great dedication. He is a highly respected expert of the perfumery sector, which extends far beyond the borders of Germany. “With the election, we have managed to rejuvenate the Board while maintaining the continuity of work. With Ms. Bergner, Ms. Summerer and Mr. Eiden, we have a young

The winners of the Selective Zone Award 2012 and Ms. Bergner (3rd r.)

During the conference, the German Perfumery Association also presented the Selective Zone Award. This award is given by the German perfumery retailers to innovative new products. Every year, numerous prizes are awarded by the media to the beauty industry. However, the Selective Zone Award is a very emotional honor, as it is awarded by the people who sell the products to the consumer. The award reflects the importance of the relationships between fragrance brands and professionals at retail. The 2012 award winners are as follows: Women’s Fragrance, Aura by Swarovski; Men’s Fragrance, Bleu de CHANEL; Skincare, Clarins Capitale Lumière; Color Cosmetics, Lancôme Teint Miracle and Special Innovation, M2 Beauté. BF

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Top Notes For Him (continued from page 22)

Dior Homme Sport Eau de Toilette Inspired by Christian Dior’s fondness for traveling the French Riviera and its utterly majestic scenery, Dior Homme Sport Eau de Toilette combines an instinctive sense of adventure with unwavering luxury. Developed by François Demachy, Perfume Creator for Dior, the fragrance begins on a zesty note of Sicilian citron. The heart opens up to reveal an intoxicating combination of Tuscan iris and Tanzanian ginger that evolves into a masculine base note of Virginian cedar. Dior Homme Sport Eau de Toilette is available at Price: 1.7 oz., $57.00; 3.4 oz., $76.00

Anthony Logistics For Men The Weekender Kit Anthony Logistics For Men has chosen five of its top products for a collection of grooming essentials— perfect for a weekend escape. The kit includes a 1.2 oz. Glycolic Facial Cleanser, 1 oz. Shave Cream, 1 oz. Astringent, .75 oz. All Purpose Facial Moisturizer and an Advanced Formula Lip Balm SPF 25 in Blood Orange. It is available exclusively at Nordstrom. Price: $25.00

Success by Trump Eau de Toilette From the man who has proved success in real estate, business, television and publishing, Donald Trump’s latest venture is a fresh aromatic fragrance that channels his achievements and evokes empowerment. The masculine scent begins on a note of fresh juniper, iced red currant and coriander. Frozen ginger, fresh bamboo leaves and geranium intertwine to form the heart while the scent dries down on a note of vetiver, tonka bean, birch wood and musk. Success by Trump is also offered in a 100 ml After Shave and Deodorant. It is available exclusively at Macy’s. Price: 1.7 oz., $45.00; 3.5 oz., $55.00

Jack Black Dry Erase™ Ultra-Calming Face Cream Jack Black’s Dry Erase™ Ultra-Calming Face Cream provides lasting hydration while combating redness and irritation with the proprietary ingredients of Hydromanil ™ and SymRelief ™. Rice Bran Extract works to soothe and smooth as aloe vera leaf juice naturally hydrates and softens the skin. It is available at Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue and Price: 2.5 oz., $38.00. M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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LAUNCHED (continued from page 24)

Armani Code Sport Eau de Toilette

GANT Pour Homme Eau de Toilette

Armani Code Sport combines a definitive sense seduction fused with a rush of adrenaline. An explosion of fresh mint develops into a heart of citrus fruits, while woods, vetiver and the vibrant glow of ginger form its captivating base.

GANT Pour Homme takes its inspiration from the spirit of the New England seacoast, incorporating the freshness of the ocean with woody notes reminiscent of a ship’s aroma. 1.7 oz., $65.00; 3.4 oz., $90.00

1.7 .oz., $59.00; 2.5 oz., $75.00; 4.2 oz., $89.00

Phoenix by Keith Urban Eau de Cologne Reflective of Keith Urban’s personal journey and spirit, this scent was named for the mythical bird that has the ability to renew itself and be reborn. Notes of fruit, cognac, chocolate and woods unite for an alluring blend of mystery and sensuality.

Connected Kenneth Cole Reaction Eau de Toilette Connected Kenneth Cole Reaction encapsulates the vitalizing energy of an active lifestyle with crisp notes of violet leaf, clary sage and cardamom combined with the sensuality of wood tones and tobacco.

1 oz., $24.00; 1.7 oz., $35.00; 3.4 oz., $48.00

2.5 oz., $50.00; 4.2 oz., $67.50

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(continued d ffrom page 26)

Mr. Bennett, Estée Lauder’s Manpreet Pannone, Sara Clasen and Sushil Raghupathy

Pochet’s John Marsden with Shiseido’s Sandip Shah

Shiseido’s Nicole Cardillo, Jen Vasile, Judy Pham, Christina Iwasko and Gisela Ballard

Meredith’s Jeannine Shao Collins, Takasago’s Olivia Bransbourg and Puig USA’s Vanita Sabnani

Mr. Spilka with Katz Strategic Group’s Neil Katz

Mr. Shibuya and Ms. Manheimer hold the Art of Packaging Award. Replete Skincare’s Josh Horowitz with Elizabeth Thieriot

Mr. Policastro, Ms. Gambill, Ms. Vaile and Beauty Fashion’s George Ledes Mr. Rosen with Pratt scholarship winners Maija Rozenfelde, Aaron Mickelson, Wei-Hsin Lin and Renato Martins Cerqueira

Mr. Matts, Mr. Rosen and Mr. Spilka (r.) with Virtue Development Company’s Doug Virtue

Mr. Shibuya shared that “it was especially meaningful to accept [the Art of Packaging Award] here in New York, where our company’s first president, Shinzo Fukuhara, received his education in Pharmacy. Mr. Fukuhara said, ‘Let the product speak for itself.’ Product packaging has a big role to play in this communication because everything we do as a brand is a statement about what Shiseido stands for.” “Great package design can bring as much beauty to peoples’ lives as cosmetics do,” he continued. “It is a privilege to work in a company that demands this of us and an honor to be recognized by our industry for our efforts.” Mr. Rosen, President and CEO of Marc Rosen Associates and Pratt Institute’s Professor of the only accredited graduate course on cosmetics and fragrance packaging, expressed, “Pratt is celebrating its 125th anniversary and its legacy of innovative art and design education. Shiseido’s creativity will continue to serve as an inspiration to our students, the Designers of tomorrow.” This year’s scholarship winners were Renato Martins Cerqueira (M.S. ’13) of Brazil; Wei-Hsin Lin (M.S. ’12) of Taiwan; Aaron Mickelson (M.S. ’13) of New York City and Maija Rozenfelde (M.S. ’13) of Latvia. Their winning fragrance designs were on display at the gala. BF M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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by the sea

Dior Nude Tan Sun Powder in Honey #001 $52.00

Inspired by hot summer days, these new products bring on the beach—wherever you may be.

Calgon Turquoise Seas Refreshing Body Mist 8 oz., $4.99

Givenchy Hydra Sparkling Lip & Cheek Balm in Moisturizing Peachy Glow $31.00

M·A·C Zoom Waterfast Lash in Waterfast Black $15.00

SinfulColors Nail Enamel in Summer Peach $1.99

Guess Seductive Sunkissed Eau de Toilette 1.7 oz., $52.00

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DENTON SETS COURSE FOR (continued from page 30)

customer, they have the choice to shop online or anywhere else. Nothing can be taken for granted anymore. In the owner-occupied perfumeries in Europe, there is still the passion, knowledge, expertise and commitment to the customer. This encourages loyalty, and that is why they continue to survive. If we don’t focus on those values, I worry about the future of department store trading. BF: What qualities should a Beauty Consultant have to represent the Erno Laszlo brand? How are they trained? CD: I like the maturity of Beauty Consultants who have been in the industry for 20 or 30 years and really understand what they are talking about. For Erno Laszlo to remain an authority in skincare, an advisor needs to understand trends in the marketplace, what other brands offer and, more importantly, see people as individuals. It’s only after you’ve seen clients for 5, 10 or 15 years that you truly understand their skin and what you are dealing with. You start to recognize signs and conditions. You learn how to communicate sensitive information in a way that resonates with a client. I have people who have worked for Erno Laszlo 30-40 years, and to me, they are the most valuable people in our organization. In an ideal world, I would like to have fully-trained Beauty Consultants in every door, and we will be moving toward that goal. We now have a full-time team of trainers who are in the field, and we’re putting a lot of effort into our e-learning. We are rewriting and updating all of our training materials for all markets. I want our Beauty Consultants to communicate a consistent message about Erno Laszlo and focus on the clients’ needs to prescribe the right products no matter where they shop in the world. BF: How will your installation at-counter communicate the message of the brand? CD: We’ve totally changed our installations at-counter and are introducing a new tester display unit, which will be in the market next month. The unit will tell the story of Erno Laszlo in three tiers. This is a big departure from the past where we took the client through cleansing, toning, moisturizing and on to finishing. This is the Timeless Skin Ritual, and we have those steps, but we are not leading with that message. It’s part of our DNA but not our vision of the future. We will tell the story about our leadership in the cleansing [category] and the need for balancing the skin through toning. Then, we will focus on the clients’ individual concerns about treatments and hydration. In my early meetings with our department store partners, I felt a universal sense of warmth and respect for the Erno Laszlo brand and its heritage. However, as it was explained on more than one occasion, the retailers have the responsibility of growing their businesses, and they want to partner with brands that have energy, vision and M AY 2 0 1 2 /

the capability to support it with investment. We have been able to convey to the retailers that we are that brand with the new installations and range re-launch that will communicate a new direction for Erno Laszlo. Thus far we’ve had a wonderful response from the retailers, such as Saks Fifth Avenue, an extremely important partner, which is adding 9 more stores for a total of 12 later this year. Holt Renfrew has also confirmed that they will be opening more doors. BF: How will you use social media to promote the Erno Laszlo brand? What other plans do you have to promote your products? CD: Social media provides an opportunity for us to tell the story of our 85-year-old heritage. I am always surprised by the passionate following among our customers. I recently travelled America visiting doors, and people kept coming up and telling me their Erno Laszlo stories. We decided to capture these on film, and we are going to add them to our Web site. Our social media strategy is to give our devotees a platform so they can tell their stories about how Erno Laszlo’s products have improved their lives. It’s not what we say about ourselves; it’s what our clients are saying about their experiences with Erno Laszlo. We call it social proof, and there’s nothing more powerful because it’s based on truth. BF: What do you see as the global potential for your company? CD: When I first came to the brand, I heard about “the Laszlo look.” The Laszlo look is evidence that the products work. When you meet Erno Laszlo clients, they are proud to admit they are 50-something because their friends say, “Oh, you don’t look a day over 40. What is your secret?” If you are able to achieve these results with women all over the world, the market size for your products is unlimited. Already, Erno Laszlo has an international following. For instance, in Hong Kong our approach to a ritual and regimen appeals to the way clients like to engage with products. They are also impressed with the science to support the claims. We are seeking to build on this success by partnering with retailers across Asia. In the People’s Republic of China and in Taiwan, we are planning to open with various retailers from Hong Kong, Malaysia and Japan. So, for the moment, our biggest focus is Asia. Having said that, we’ve just launched exclusively in Harrods London. This is important because it will grow our following in other markets, as their customer is truly international and discerning. There is always going to be a client out there who wants the very best skincare they can get and is drawn to brands that have a proven efficacy. Erno Laszlo has 85 years of kept promises. BF


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COSMETICS IN COLOMBIA (continued from page 35)

companies based on sustainability and the application of biotechnology. This will provide cosmetics and toiletries investors with clear rules relating to the access and use of biological and genetic resources derived from biodiversity. Bogotá, the country’s capital and largest city, is thriving with new companies, four-star restaurants and universities, such as the Universidad de los Andes, which is conducting some of the most competitive research in sustainability and bio-technology in the world. Chemists and researchers at the Universidad de los Andes and the Universidad de Antioquia are able to produce foodstuffs without growing the actual product—a concept that becomes significantly more important as the world population increases and workable land decreases. Colombian production of cosmetics and toiletries has doubled in 10 years, and many international companies now have a presence in Colombia including Waliwa Co-Founders and Owners Kimberly Clark, Avon and Unilever. In addition, Proexport Colombia has been Myriam Moya and Martha Neira instrumental in introducing Waliwa Amazonian Natural Products, a private company founded and owned by two Pharmacists, Martha Neira and Myriam Moya. The unique line of Waliwa skincare products trace their origins to the rich raw materials only found in the Colombian Amazon. One product, Amazon Balm for Lush Lips, is a hydrating lip conditioner housed inside a special Andean Nogal nut that is designed to moisturize and protect lips while minimizing the appearance of fine lines around the mouth. CPL Aromas, founded in 1971, is an independent, international fragrance house headquartered in the UK, with 17 additional locations including France, Germany, Turkey, Hong Kong, Dubai and their newest location in Bogotá. Their fragrance library houses thousands of formulas suited to a vast range of different markets and sectors, fine fragrances as well as industrial. Bogatá is not the only city in Colombia reinventing itself. Like its counterpart, Proexport Colombia in Bogatá, the Agency of Cooperation and Investment of Medellin (ACI) promotes Medellin and the Metropolitan Area of the Aburra Valley as the ideal destination for foreign companies and investors. A principle example: Avon invested more than $50 million to create an entirely “green” production center. Built in 2010, Avon’s Ecobranch is the first building of any kind in Colombia to be awarded a Leadership in Energy and Environmental CPL Aromas Owner Nick Pickthall Design (LEED) Gold certification. The region is also home to several local companies, including Ecoflora and CECIF. Founded in 1998, Ecoflora is a pioneer Colombian enterprise committed to developing a SERIES (Sustainable, Effective, Responsible, Innovative, Ethical/Eco-Logic and Safe) of ingredients, products and solutions derived from Colombia’s biodiversity. Four of Ecoflora’s main ingredients are useful for multiple industries including the cosmetics and personal care industries. CosmeBlue is extracted from the edible fruit of Jagua sustainably harvested from the rainforests of Choco. Myrica Wax, extracted from Laurel de Cera fruits, is used as a base in cosmetic preparations and creams. Its melting point is similar to the human body temperature, and its almost non-existent odor makes it a very attractive ingredient for body, hair and lip applications as well as for the production of fine soaps. Ungurahua Oil is extracted from the Seje palm and is native to the tropical rainforests of Colombia. It has been ancestrally used by the indigenous communities due to its emollient, soothing, softening, and skin nutrition qualities. It is also used in cosmetic and food applications due to its high nutritive content of omega 9. Ecoflora’s motto is “Food without the toxins, Cosmetics without the guilt, Flowers without the thorns, Pets without the sorrow, Cleaning without the poison.” Founded in 1997 and located in the beautiful hills surrounding Medellin, La Corporacion Centro de la Ciencia y la Investigacion Farmaceutica (CECIF) is a state-of-the-art facility whose main objectives are research and development as directly applied to the cosmetics industry. They also serve as a formulation plant and distribution center for companies that do not have the facilities to produce their own products. With its technological and financial development, along with the support of the Colombian government, this once-troubled country is perfectly positioned CECIF’s Luz Elena Castrillon Aldon and Ilona Gouzy Wiese to become a world leader in the cosmetics industry. BF M AY 2 0 1 2 /


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(continued from page 36)

Association Collaboration—with deep roots in the beauty industry, HBA Global works closely with leading associations, such as CEW, CIBS and ICMAD, on events and education to bring attendees more networking, professional and personal development opportunities. HBA Global Conference Program Along with the trade show floor, HBA Global offers a comprehensive three-day educational program discussing beauty trends, market movements and technical approaches. Tracks that will be presented include brand management, consumer engagement, ingredient and skin care advances, new technologies and product development processes, green and natural products, distribution, global markets and packaging & design. The HBA conference is also featuring new formats that provide an interactive learning experience as well as increased networking opportunities. More dynamic content presentation including group discussions, roundtables, brainstorming sessions and question-and-answer time are part of the educational agenda. Sessions and speakers of particular interest include: “Creating a Successful Beauty Brand” with Kline Group’s Donna Barson, Carol’s Daughter’s Lisa Price and ybf Beauty’s Stacey Schieffelin “New Perspectives in Beauty Retailing” with Ada Polla, Founder and CEO, Alchimie Forever; Jani Friedman, Managing Director, Demeter Group; Marcia Gaynor, GMM Beauty and Look Boutique, Duane Reade / Walgreens; Jennifer Walsh, Founder, For Love of Beauty; Susan Yara Dayalan, Editorial Director, Video & Interactive, NewBeauty at Fred Segal “Lifestyle Marketing: How to Create Consumer Engagement and Loyalty” with Katherine Voyten, Brand Management, Gucci and Escada Fine Fragrances, Procter & Gamble “The Digital Revolution: Building Blocks of Digital Strategies” with Ann Colville Somma, Publisher, Cult of Pretty; Katia Beauchamp, Co-Founder, Birchbox; Alisa Marie Beyer, Founder, The Beauty Company and Stacey DeGarmo, Real Techniques “Unlocking Creativity for Packaging Innovations” with Estée Lauder’s Hervé Bouix, L’Oréal’s Philippe Bonningue, Revlon’s John Butcher and Bayer’s Guido Schmitz Other topics will include “The 411 for Indie Brands,” “Fragrance Delivery and Transparency,” “Megatrends Driving Innovations,” “Meet the Beauty Consumer Live” and “Movers and Shakers in Hair Care.” The all new “The Beauty Business is Not for Sissies” Workshop, presented by The Beauty Company and taking M AY 2 0 1 2 /

place on Thursday, June 21 at HBA Global, will provide proprietary tools, answers, and information to anyone just beginning their journey into beauty or for those already involved. “Attending HBA Global Expo is like taking a trip around the world with many beauty destinations. Make sure you stop at the new SPLASH pavilion featuring the latest finished products on the market and make time to attend one of the conferences. You will find a wide range of diverse topics to pick from, such as the latest technologies for antiaging, what you need to know about consumer trends and social media,” said Liliana George, Ph.D., Executive Director, Strategic Development, The Estée Lauder Companies and HBA Advisory Board Member. New York Spa & Resort/Medical Aesthetics Expo Co-located with HBA Global, the New York Spa & Resort/ Medical Aesthetics Expo, running June 19-20, presents another educational and resource opportunity for attendees. This show features exhibitors from leading skincare, equipment and treatment companies. It will also present two full days of educational content and demonstrations in its show floor theater. The educational topics include “Marketing Your Spa,” “Reflexology,” “Maximizing Digital Media Outreach” and “Skincare and Non-invasive Procedures.” HBA Global’s beauty week provides a 360-degree view of the entire product development cycle. HBA Global Expo & Conference will also feature special activities that focus on the fashion element of beauty and its increased collaboration with market research firms, beauty content providers and influencers to provide even more trend-setting information, activities and networking opportunities UBM Live’s Jill Birkett for attendees. For more information and to register, use priority code PBFT, for a special discount at “Trend exploration is a key strength for the HBA Global show,” said Jill Birkett, Brand Director, Beauty & Wellness, UBM Live. “The event has been an incubator for the launch or growth of many industry-transforming brands, technologies, innovations, products and business practices.” BF


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Making The Connection CEW Zooms In On Social Media (continued from page 38)

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Stephanie Bruno and Susan Tendler with Givaudan’s Karen Flinn and Sophie Bensamou

Elizabeth Arden’s Christina Bennett and Flightpath’s Michelle Kelarakos with Johnson & Johnson’s Alex Garvey and Jessica Goon of Avon

Behaviour’s Peter Hammer and Rob Sebastian with Paul Morris of ScrollMotion

Shiseido’s Abby Landau, Andrea Fazio, Margaret Des Gaines and Nicole Cardillo

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Maureen Case (c.) with Ms. Thalberg and Ms. Rodriguez

Lush’s Brandi Halls and Erin Brady

Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia’s Raylene Salthouse with Elizabeth Arden’s Gretchen Dowling

Avon’s Susan Arnot Heaney with mark’s Gail Boyé, Victoria Colby and Meg Werner

OpenSky’s Peter Condos and Allison Slater

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Making The Connection CEW Zooms In On Social Media (continued from page 51)


The Brand Celebrates 150 Years

n 1862, Armand Roger and Charles Gallet opened their parfumerie in Paris after acquiring Jean Marie Farina’s secret formula of Eau de Cologne. Mr. Farina was the court Perfumer of Europe and had created Eau de Cologne rolls—long, slender bottles of fragrance—for Napoléon and his officers. In 1879, Roger&Gallet introduced its first round, perfumed soap encased in the iconic, pleated paper wrapping. Roger&Gallet collaborated with René Jules Lalique to create fragrance bottles and with Morin Erte to produce their Art Deco print ads. Today, Martin Szekely carries on those traditions with packaging that is pure and modern while evoking an Art Deco style. The Jean Marie Farina fragrance collection has now expanded to include Bois d’Orange, Citron, Ginger, Green Tea, Rose and Fleur d’Osmanthus. Roger&Gallet has maintained its staying power for 150 years because “the brand has always held specific attributes of quality, tradition, refinement, know-how and French art de vivre,” affirmed Renee Mininni, Assistant Vice President of U.S. Marketing at Roger&Gallet. “Roger&Gallet is a brand that is transmitted from one generation to another…As the brand has evolved through time, customers of all ages and demographics have become fans ranging from youth to maturity.” According to Ms. Mininni, the brand is distributed in pharmacies and “continues to remain within this channel. What is unique is that the pharmacy channels have changed, and the brand has evolved to meet these changes. It is now available in select Duane Reade Look Boutique stores. The new, limited-edition She reports that Roger&Gallet Emperor Collection Roger&Gallet will be celebrating its 150th year anniversary with an introduction of the limited-edition Emperor Collection series of three Art Deco bottles, each housing its own fragrance. The Emperor Collection represents and was inspired by the original Eau de Cologne rolls created for Napoleon and his army. There will also be special events in-store to celebrate this anniversary. BF M AY 2 0 1 2 /

Laura Geller Beauty Ingenuity’s Laura Geller with Hudson’s Bay Company (The Bay, Lord & Taylor)’s Barbara Zinn-Moore

Sonia Kashuk with Ms. Case and Veronica Ullner of The Estée Lauder Companies

Coty Prestige’s Lori Singer with Marianne Diorio of The Estée Lauder Companies

In addition to Facebook and Twitter, many new platforms have recently emerged onto the scene—including Tumblr, Pinterest and Instagram. “The Estée Lauder Companies is serious about figuring out how to win over the big platforms where our consumers are, but we also have an appetite for experimenting with ones that are emerging,” stated Ms. Thalberg. She maintained that the company’s vast portfolio of brands lends itself well for experimenting with these newer platforms, as one brand can learn for many. Ms. Rodriguez added that while it might seem wise for a brand to have an established presence on every platform, it pays to be more exclusive. “At Bobbi Brown, we strive to master the platforms that we are already on, and we won’t launch onto a new platform until we are ready. We follow the mantra: ‘Don’t be everything to everyone; be something to someone.’” BF


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TWEEZERMAN Sharpens Tools’ Focus (continued from page 40)

quality tools are essential for beauty professionals, and they know that better than anyone. The Tweezerman Designer Series’ Agatha Ruiz de la Prada The Tweezerman Designer Series’ Betsey Johnson

The Tweezerman Designer Series’ Harajuku Lovers

BF: How are you taking advantage of social media to build the buzz about the brand? CW: Quality is at the heart of our company, and the outstanding performance of our tools has been spread via word-of-mouth, which remains our best social media tool. We have a Facebook presence to educate fans about our products that also features contests and giveaways. We are on Twitter with the same content. We have just launched new initiatives that are very important to us— VIP PRO—a program for beauty professionals and an ambassador program for bloggers and vloggers. People need to be educated about the investment in good tools, as tools are essential to create the foundation for beauty. Many people buy poor-quality tools because they don’t know any better. Social media helps connect customers to practical education about the difference our products can make for a great experience in achieving the looks they love. However, we see it as a two-way communication, which also helps us to bring our products to the next level. We are getting very good feedback from social media and want to strengthen our connection to the beauty professionals with our programs. High M AY 2 0 1 2 /

BF: Are you developing types of products not currently in your portfolio and possibly delving into other beauty categories? CW: The Zwilling Beauty Group, pare n t c o m p a ny o f Tweezerman, has recently acquired the majority shares Tweezerman’s iconic Slant Tweezers of the alessandro brand, a very wellknown brand in Europe for UV gels, hand, nail and foot care with great expertise in nail colors. alessandro provides top quality, professional products for nail sculpting and nail color, and the brand and product portfolio are the perfect fit for Tweezerman, allowing us to provide a complete range of products for perfect manicures and pedicures. We see great opportunities for this brand, but it is too premature to discuss them at this point. The acquisition is still pending approval from the relevant antitrust authorities. BF: What is your vision for the future of Tweezerman? CW: We are a tool-driven company, and our vision is to continue to lead the premium category through innovation, education and POS enhancements and to develop Tweezerman into a truly global brand. Americans really understand the tool category, but in some other areas of the world, it is still evolving. In the Asian market, there is a big focus on lashes, so our lash curlers, lash combs and tweezers are very well received. Europe is another area of focus. We have been very well received in South America, where consumers are very sophisticated in terms of tools and are expanding in countries such as Brazil and Mexico. Making top quality tools is the basis of our business. We were the first to introduce many innovations in the category and also to add fashion to tools. Now, we will bring our tools to an even more sophisticated level with new technologies for performance and durability, as well as improved function through ergonomics. BF


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(continued from page 42)

La Prairie Facial Event La Prairie is world renowned for their scientifically advanced and ultra-luxurious skincare products. One of the brand’s recent launches is the new Skin Caviar Liquid Lift, which offers age-defying peptides, DNA nutrients and highly concentrated caviar extracts that are blended together in a unique dual chamber to lift, firm and tighten skin. New customers to La Prairie at Saks Fifth Avenue in Boca Raton who registered for a complimentary facial were able to try this new product along with many others that were tailored to their skincare needs.

Ms. Meltzer applies makeup to customer Rachelle Nahmias.

La Prairie’s Frances Meltzer and Eva Habib

“We offer comprehensive 45-minute facials as a complimentary service to new customers,” explained Eva Habib, the South Florida Aesthetician for La Prairie, who showed off the stunning spa room in the Boca department store. “This is a wonderful opportunity to really assess the client’s skincare needs and concerns. We select the right products for their skin’s issues and teach them how to properly use the products.” For this type of special event, Ms. Habib will typically perform five to nine facials a day and witnesses many first-time guests returning to become regular La Prairie clients. Lining the treatment room wall were many of the famed products including the Platinum Collection, the White Caviar Illuminating System, the Anti-Aging Collection and the Advanced Marine Biology Collection. Also on display was the current Boca bestseller, the Infusion Cellulaire Intensive, a treatment to be used three times a year. As Ms. Habib set up for her next client, she explained the facial process, which is similar to the pamM AY 2 0 1 2 /

Ms. Habib in La Prairie’s facial room at Saks Fifth Avenue in Boca Raton

pering received at the famed La Prairie spas, including cleansing and exfoliating the skin, applying a mask as well as special eye treatments. La Prairie also offers de-stressing hand and foot massages. La Prairie’s Frances Meltzer, the Boca Raton Aesthetician noted, “Most are familiar with our famous Blue Caviar line, but La Prairie offers many products within the various lines. When new clients are introduced to the products, they see the results, and they really appreciate it.” BF


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on the avenue

SAN FRANCISCO BEAT (continued from page 41)

(continued from page 20)

Glamour Awards Esxence’s Silvio Levy with Beauty Fashion’s George Ledes

Glamour’s Cindi Leive and L’Oréal Paris’ Kristen Comings (r.) with Allison Williams, Tika Sumpter, Rent the Runway’s Jennifer Hyman, Aimee Mullins and Sarah Hurwitz

Ms. Leive (6th r.) and Ms. Comings (5th r.) with Glamour’s Top 10 College Women

L’Oréal Paris was the exclusive sponsor of Glamour’s 2012 Top 10 College Women awards which were held at New York City’s New Museum on April 3. There was a panel discussion by successful women in diverse fields, which was moderated by Gla mour’s Editor-in-Chief, Cindi Leive. The panel gave their insights on “Defining Success Your Way: The New Secrets of Getting Ahead.” Maggie Dunne, a student at Colgate University, received the L’Oréal Paris-sponsored grand prize for her work “making a difference for Native Americans.”

Stacey Schieffelin Honored ybf Beauty’s Founder and President, Stacey Schieffelin, was given “The 2012 Women in Leadership Award” at the 27th Annual Women in Leadership Awards & Benefit Luncheon at Saint Clements Castle in Portland, Connecticut. Business leaders gathered to recognize Ms. Schieffelin for her work in empowering women “to live the ybf Beauty’s Stacey Schieffelin, Linda McMahon and David Schieffelin of life they dream of.” ybf Beauty and 24eight BF M AY 2 0 1 2 /

chaired by Mr. Edwards. Joseph Garces, President of Robert Piguet Parfums, along with other panelists, discussed the correlation between the publishing and the fragrance industries to live and televised audiences. Robert Piguet Parfums also hosted an exclusive cocktail party to celebrate and unveil its newest line, “Nouvelle Collection de Robert Piguet,” a range of five ultra-luxe scents. This special collection was created by Perfumer Aurélien Guichard of Givaudan Paris. The glittering and stylish party was presided over by Mr. Garces and was held at the chic Sheraton Diana Majestic, one of the most famous hotels in Milan. In the spacious enchanting private garden, with blooming wisteria overhead, guests enjoyed a fashionable and glamorous atmosphere where the new fragrances— Bois Noir, OUD, Casbah, Mr. Garces with Mr. Edwards Notes and Mademoiselle Piguet de Robert Piguet—were on display. Esxence was a significant and magical mix of Perfumers, industry professionals and p e r f u m e l ove r s , Guests and Mr. Dinand (r.) at the Robert c onfirming that Piguet Parfums’ cocktail party Esxence is a mustattend event and that the niche fragrance market is alive and well. I walked away fervently wishing Esxence would come to America.


Mr. Edwards and Parfums Givenchy Paris’ Karen Marin at the Robert Piguet Parfums party in Milan



Launches in Brazil

(continued from page 32)

(continued from page 31)

knowing exactly which fragrance she is smelling, she may surprise herself that her preferences are different from what she originally thought—so a customer who after many years thinks she’s an exclusive Coco Mademoiselle fan may discover that she actually is quite drawn to N o 5 Eau Premiere or Coromandel. As the customer picks her favorites, they are laid out on a black tray for her to revisit at the end of her consultation. In addition to each fragrance, there is also a ceramic blotter with an infusion of coffee scent to keep the nose clear. BF: Is there special lighting for this installation? Are the fixtures new to this space? CV: The pendant lamps are custom-made exclusively for Espace Parfums. BF: Are chairs a new feature? How does that improve the relationship between the Beauty Advisor and the customer? CV: The chairs are also custom-made exclusively for Espace Parfums. They are low chairs, which allow the customer to linger and engage comfortably to encourage a more personalized consultation. BF: How do you believe this installation will engage the customer in a new way about fragrance and ultimately drive sales? CV: The level of personalized attention and exclusivity of the one-on-one experience will allow the customer to confidently navigate our portfolio of fragrances and enjoy the process of finding the one—or several—that best suit her. The level of engagement and trust that is built through the interaction with the fragrance expert is supported by a space that is designed to encourage dialogue. In contrast to the transient nature of most fragrance experiences, ours encourages an on-going and personal exploration of fragrance that has the customer returning to CHANEL as the ultimate fragrance expert. BF: Will this installation provide a blueprint for others in the future? Are the other Espace Parfums installations already in place similar to the one at Bloomingdale’s 59th Street? CV: An early version of Espace Parfums was installed in Saks Fifth Avenue’s New York City store in 2008. There are discussions about rolling out additional Espace Parfums, but no plans have been fully finalized at this point. BF

A Bond No. 9 space in a Brazilian perfumery

To launch our fragrances in Brazil, a press event was held at Hotel Emiliano. Thirty journalists attended from magazines such as ELLE, Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar, Istoe Dinerio, Claudia Novias and Brazil Economic. We have received major press so far. BF: How did you make sure that the people who sell your Bond No. 9 fragrances in Brazil can properly communicate the brand? LF: We had to do extensive training in Brazil. We trained the staff of the BrightStar Group and the Sales Associates. With Bond, you are not just selling perfume; you are selling New York City. We are different than any other perfume that they have in their stores. The entire training was focused on selling New York. This is our point of difference from other luxury fragrances. They have to sell New York. BF: How will you maintain the level of training that you set on your visit to Brazil? LR: Bond No. 9’s Juan Mercado, Director of Sales USA, Canada and Latin America, who is based in Miami, will do once-a-year training. We also have constant communication with BrightStar Group’s staff and constantly communicate with their customers through Facebook and our Web site. The Brazilians are savvy about social media. BF: Would you ever consider naming a fragrance for a Brazilian neighborhood? LR: No. I’m selling New York first and always. This is our point of difference. Everyone is in the perfume business. We are bigger than that. We are a New York City business first. Now we have New York State coming to us, so we are doing fragrances for the state as well with our I LOVE NEW YORK by Bond No. 9 collection. These fragrances will launch in Brazil in the second half of the year. BF

BEAUTY FASHION (ISSN00057487) is published monthly by Beauty Fashion 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A. (212) 840-8800. Fax: (212) 840-7246. Subscription: Domestic $25.00 a year. Foreign: Canada and Mexico $50.00: Air Mail-Europe and all other countries $175.00. Single copy price: $5.00 except directory issues which are $10.00. Periodical postage paid at New York and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address change to Beauty Fashion 16 East 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A PUBLISHER CONFIDENTIALITY POLICY The subscription lists of this publication are maintained on a confidential basis. Beauty Fashion has never marketed, sold or otherwise distributed, its subscription lists for any commercial or other purpose.

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©2012 CHANEL®, Inc.


B®, N°5®, The Classic Bottle®