Issuu on Google+

BEAUTY FASHION www.beautyfashion.com

JANUARY 2012

®

NEW

COLOR TATTOO™ 24HR CREAM GEL SHADOW

EYESTUDIO® by


© 2012 Estée Lauder Inc.


Beautiful skin. It’s in your DNA. Advanced Night Repair 30 Years of Innovation. Inspired by Groundbreaking DNA Research. New. Clinical Study Proves Skin Gets Better and Better. In an unprecedented year-long study, women continued to experience a dramatic reduction in the major signs of visible aging, day after day, month after month.* Skin looks smoother, younger, more radiant and healthy-looking. Join the millions of women around the world who use it year after year and wouldn’t trust their skin to anything else.

Proven Effective for All Ethnicities. 20+ Patents Worldwide. *Study

of Advanced Night Repair. Clinical improvement over baseline.

esteelauder.com


THE FIRST FRAGRANCE FOR WOMEN


JANUARY 2012 • VOLUME 96 • NUMBER 1

BEAUTY

BEAUTY FASHION www.beautyfashion.com

JANUARY 2012

®

FASHION

®

On the cover:

Dare to get inked with Color Tattoo 24HR Cream Gel Shadow, the latest innovation from Maybelline New York’s best-selling Eye Studio collection. Maybelline New York has combined their intense pigment technology with flexible film formers to create a shadow that packs the most intense, saturated color possible. The semi-permanent gel-cream smoothes on for vibrant, creaseresistant color that doesn’t fade away—and wears for 24 hours.

NEW

COLOR TATTOO™ 24HR CREAM GEL SHADOW

EYESTUDIO® by

Maybelline New York spokesmodel Erin Wasson is wearing Color Tattoo 24HR Cream Gel Shadow in Tenacious Teal. 19

Love Notes Beauty Fashion’s Guide To Valentine’s Day Fragrances

AT-COUNTER 20

A Walk On The Line Side…With Bliss’ Mike Indursky Branching At Bliss Spas, Sephora And Lord & Taylor

29

CounterCulture

31

Milestones Giorgio Armani Beauty Celebrates 10th Anniversary At Saks Fifth Avenue

32

Zinn-Moore Feted By L&T On 10th Anniversary

20

24

THEBEAUTYBIZ 10

The Beauty Flash

16

Industry Ear

24

Maybelline New York’s Spring Beauty Trends

27

Sharon Collier’s New Role At Cover FX

28

The Fragrance Foundation Hosts A Conversation On Celebrity Scents

30

Insights From L’Oréal USA At CEW’s Women In Beauty Series Event

26 © 2012 BY BEAUTY FASHION. No reproduction of material contained herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.


Š Clinique Laboratories, LLC

Š Clinique Laboratories, LLC

See the cleanest, freshest, healthiest version of your skin. When you take care of your body, you look and feel great. To get you on a simple, healthy routine for great skin, our guiding dermatologists gave us this 3-Step System. Cleanse to purify, exfoliate so fresh skin surfaces, moisturize to a healthy glow. Twice a day creates your best skin. Find your customized routine at clinique.com


EDiTORiAL

Go Santa… Right Into Valentine’s Day There is no rest for the weary. As the preliminary sales numbers come in from the holiday season, the results have us cautiously optimistic. But there is little time to enjoy the moment as Valentine’s Day arrives. I believe how the race is started directly impacts how it is finished. So let’s take the positive momentum of the holidays and channel it forward, right into December’s unemployment numbers and right into our first retail challenge of 2012, Valentine’s Day. You will note that this issue has our fragrance picks for the holiday of love. To add a little color to this time of year, not missing the white we were looking at last year, we have an extensive look at the upcoming cosmetics launches as well as Maybelline New York’s spring beauty trends. So please, be my Valentine this year.

George Ledes President and CEO

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

6

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


JANUARY 2012 • VOLUME 96 • NUMBER 1

BEAUTY FASHION

®

33

Making Sales Amway Independent Business Owners Share Their Sales Tips For Success

34

Prestige Skincare Puts Its Best Face Forward Performance In First Half 2011 -Mariangela Gisonda, The NPD Group, Inc.

28

FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS 37

Notes From Paris -Sarah Colton

38

Beauty Australia -Andrea Ferrari

REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS 35

36

Boston Beauty -Brittany Jasnoff Sitting Pretty In The Tar Heel Triangle -Bridgette A. Lacy

30

THEPARTYSCENE 26

On The Avenue

THELATESTLAUNCHES 22

First Look Friday Night Brights

23

First Look Gilt-y Pleasures

44

First Look Keep It Fresh

45

First Look Daydreamer

46

First Look The Dark Side

47

First Look Sweet Treat

31

EVERYMONTH 6

Editorial

10

ComingUp

12

Calendar


.. ityty acci tena ooten tto tto . Ta y. Ta sitity tens inen 24hr HRint

Dare to wear our hadow. ng ssh assttiin longesstt--lla NEW

COLOR TATTOO™ 24HR CREAM GEL SHADOW

Our ink technology creates super-saturated color. Cream gel smoothes on for vibrant color that does not fade. Dare to get inked. In 10 shades.

EYESTUDIO® by EXPLORE MORE AT MAYBELLINE.COM Shu Pei is wearing New Eye Studio® Color Tattoo™ 24HR Cream Gel Shadow in Painted Purple. ©2012 Maybelline LLC.


Saks Unveils Holiday Windows

Saks Fifth Avenue’s Terron Schaefer and Steve Sadove

Saks’ Ron Frasch (2nd l.) with his family at the holiday window unveiling

On November 21, the holidays were kick-started at Saks Fifth Avenue’s flagship New York City store with a greeting by Saks’ CEO Steve Sadove. A special performance by the Jacqueline Kennedy The Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis School at American Ballet Theatre’s Onassis School at performers dance on Fifth Avenue. American Ballet Theatre with Fifth Avenue serving as the stage was followed by a festive 3-D light show spectacular spotlighted on the building. The final act of the evening’s festivities was the much anticipated display of Saks’ holiday windows.

Photos by Getty Images for Saks Fifth Avenue

L&T’s Fragrance Festival In the days before Christmas, Lord & Taylor held a Fragrance Festival on the beauty floor at its flagship New York City store. Customers could browse the fragrance displays along the center aisle.

Saks’ holiday windows Lord & Taylor’s Jose Rojas and Lorraine Larsen highlight the Angel by Thierry Mugler display.

L’Oréal USA’s Cindy Mulosmanaj presents Ralph Lauren Fragrances’ Polo.

Lord & Taylor’s Marti Moore, Elizabeth Ravalico and Barbara Zinn-Moore greet customers at the Fragrance Festival.

Coty Prestige’s Christine Aidiniou with Lord & Taylor’s Christina Gonzalez showcase Marc Jacobs fragrances.

FEBRUARY Preview of PCPC Annual Meeting P&G’s Jenny Rushmore and Scott Heid byline an article on natural versus Jenny Rushmore synthetic ingredients and Scott Heid

Allyson King

CounterCulture – Clarins’ Allyson King defines the strategy of training for the new Clarins Skin Spa CounterClothes – Prabal Gurung’s new uniforms for Sephora’s Cast Members

Lord & Taylor’s Melissa D’Aquila and Ms. Ravalico at the Dolce& Gabbana fragrance display Lord & Taylor’s Everett Procter at the Burberry Brit For Men table J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

10

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

BF


ty. ciity ac 24HR intensity. Tattoo tena

Dare to wear our longest-lasting shadow. NEW

COLOR TATTOO™ 24HR CREAM GEL SHADOW

Our ink technology creates super-saturated color. Cream gel smoothes on for vibrant color that does not fade. Dare to get inked. In 10 shades.

EYESTUDIO® by EXPLORE MORE AT MAYBELLINE.COM Jessica is wearing New Eye Studio® Color Tattoo™ 24HR Cream Gel Shadow in Fierce and Tangy. ©2012 Maybelline LLC.


BEAUTY FASHION

®

PRESIDENT AND CEO

GEORGE LEDES

gledes@beautyfashion.com SENIOR RETAIL EDITOR

ADELAIDE P. FARAH

SENIOR PRODUCTS EDITOR

afarah@beautyfashion.com ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

ladams@beautyfashion.com

DEBRA DAVIS

ART DIRECTOR

ddavis@beautyfashion.com DIRECTORY EDITOR

LINDSEY E. ADAMS

JENNIFER DRUCKER

jdrucker@beautyfashion.com

HOWARD BIEGEL

PHOTOGRAPHER

hbiegel@beautyfashion.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR EMERITUS

ERIC MICHELSON

JOHN G. LEDES EXECUTIVE OFFICE 16 E. 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 Telephone: 212-840-8800 Fax: 212-840-7246

www.beautyfashion.com www.cosmeticworld.com

BEAUTY FASHION EVENTS CALENDAR SUBJECT (A) Awards (B) Benefit (E) Retail Event (I) Product Intro

(M) (P) (R) (S) (T)

Meeting Press Trip Reception Seminar Trade Show

ADMISSION DETAIL (IO) Invitation Only (TA) Tickets Available * Phone numbers provided are for further information.

JANUARY 19

Cosmetic Executive Women Women & Men in Beauty Series: Marketing Beauty to the Hispanic Consumer with Univision Communications’ Graciela Eleta, Macy’s Linda Levy and P&G’s Alexandra Vegas Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org

JANUARY 26

Fashion Group International Rising Star Awards Luncheon Cipriani 42nd Street • NYC 11:15 AM (A) (TA) 212-302-5511 www.fgi.org

JANUARY 30 - 31

Elements Showcase Skylight West • NYC (T) www.elements-showcase.org

JANUARY 30

Fragrance Foundation Elements Showcase Cocktail Party and Ceremony to Honor 2012 “Indie” FiFi Award Finalists & Winner Skylight West • NYC 7:00 PM (R) (A) (TA) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org

JANUARY 31

Fragrance Foundation Hot Off the Press Breakfast in Partnership with NPD Group The Plaza • NYC 8:00 AM (S) (IO) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org

FEBRUARY 8

Cosmetic Executive Women Young Executive Committee’s Cocktails & Connections: Speed Networking FIT • NYC 6:00 PM (R) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org

FEBRUARY 9

James E. Marshall OCD Foundation Beyond Beauty Dinner Honoring Maesa Group’s Jill Belasco, Kaplow’s Liz Kaplow and Scent Marketing Institute’s Caroline Pieper-Vogt Union League Club • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (TA) (608) 845-3664

FEBRUARY 16

Cosmetic Executive Women Newsmaker Forum with Ulta’s Chuck Ruben Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org ICMAD Technical/Regulatory Forum Balboa Bay Club • Newport Beach CA (M) (847) 991-4499 www.icmad.org

FEBRUARY 20 - 23

Beauty & Wellness Exchange Montage • Laguna Beach CA (T) (203) 202-2576 www.exchangeevents.com/beauty

FEBRUARY 22 - 24

Personal Care Products Council Annual Meeting Ritz-Carlton • Naples FL (M) (202) 331-1770 www.personalcarecouncil.org

MARCH 4 - 5

Professional Beauty London ExCel Centre • London (T) info@mrapr.com www.professionalbeauty.co.uk

MARCH 7

Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Awards Product Demonstration Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC 6:00 PM (R) (IO) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

12

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

MARCH 9 - 11

Beauty International Dusseldorf Germany (T) (312) 781-5185 www.mdna.com

MARCH 9 - 12

Cosmoprof Bologna Bologna Italy (T) www.cosmoprof.com

MARCH 9

ICMAD Cosmoprof Bologna Reception (800) 334-2623 www.icmad.org

MARCH 13

March of Dimes Beauty Ball Honoring HSN’s Mindy Grossman and Fairchild’s Gina Sanders Cipriani 42nd Street • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (TA) (212) 353-1143 jcarlo@marchofdimes.com

MARCH 17 - 18

The Makeup Show LA California Market Center • Los Angeles CA (T) (TA) www.themakeupshow.com

MARCH 28 - 29

Luxe Pack Shanghai Shanghai Intl Convention Center Shanghai China (T) www.luxepack.com

APRIL 17

Luxe Pack-Pratt Art of Packaging Award Dinner University Club • NYC 6:30 PM (A) (B) (TA) (212) 925-2507 Elaine@kxassociates.com

APRIL 26

ICMAD FDA Cosmetic Regulations Workshop NYC 9:00 AM (TA) (847) 991-4499 www.icmad.org


CONTRIBUTING editors&columnists CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Italy Simona Barello simona.barello@gmail.com Fax: +39-06-59887673

Marc Rosen marc@mra-nyc.com

France Sarah Colton sarahcolton@sarahcolton.com Fax: 011-331-45885386

UK Lorraine Wilson-Morris lorraine@esprit-magazine.co.uk

Australia Andrea Ferrari andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au

Brazil Fernanda Bonifacio mfmbonifacio@hotmail.com

Germany Heide Kuhn-Winkler info@hkw-pressoffice.de Fax: 011-49-621-400-6065

Spain Julia Rossi juliarossi@hotmail.es

REGIONAL COLUMNISTS

Seattle, WA Mary Elizabeth Cronin tel.: (206) 284-8998 mecronin@mecronin.com

Atlanta, GA Toni M. Lublin tel.: (404) 874-6998 toni_lublin@yahoo.com

San Francisco, CA Raphaella Barkley tel.: (775) 849-7724 raphaellabrescia@msn.com

Colorado Hilary Martin tel.: (303) 499-6244 fax: (303) 499-6245 winedunce@gmail.com

Raleigh, NC Bridgette A. Lacy tel.: (919) 872-4234 bridgettelacy@att.net

Boston, MA Brittany Jasnoff tel.: (617) 262-9700 bjasnoff@hotmail.com

Chicago, IL Lisa D. Lenoir tel.: (773) 643-0238 lenol66@aol.com

Dallas/Fort Worth, TX Normita Joven tel.: (214) 504-6157 normita.beautyfashion@gmail.com

Washington, DC Bernadette Lacy tel.: (571) 451-4187 bernie368@gmail.com

Houston, TX Mary Sit tel./fax: (713) 973-6798 maryesit@gmail.com

Richmond, VA Emily Kirkpatrick eskirkpatrick@gmail.com

Los Angeles to La Jolla, CA Lynn D. Ludlam tel.: (760) 295-6999 lynndludlam@aol.com


$OOULJKWVUHVHUYHG5LKDQQDŠDQG5HEHOOHŒDUHWUDGHPDUNVRZQHGE\5RUDM7UDGH//&SURWHFWHGE\WUDGHPDUNUHJLVWUDWLRQVDQGRUSHQGLQJDSSOLFDWLRQVDVZHOODVRWKHUODZVDQGDUHXVHGXQGHUOLFHQVHE\3DUOX[)UDJUDQFHV,QF$OOULJKWVLQDQGWRVXFKPDUNVDUHUHVHUYHGE\5RUDM7UDGH//&


THEBEAUTYBIZ

Perfumania Holdings, Inc. and Parlux Fragrances, Inc. have signed a definitive merger agreement under which Perfumania would acquire all of the outstanding shares of Parlux in a transaction valued at approximately $170 million, based on Perfumania’s closing stock price of $19.55 per share on December 22, 2011. Inter Parfums, Inc. has entered into a 13-year worldwide license agreement with La Maison Repetto for the creation, development and distribution of fragrances under the Repetto brand. The first fragrance line is expected to be launched in 2013 by Interparfums SA, the majorityowned French subsidiary.

Edward W. Bullock

The Fragrance Foundation’s Web site, fragrance.org and osMoz.com will now link to each other so that visitors of both sites can easily find information that both expert resources provide.

Edward W. Bullock, Vice President, Diversity & Inclusion for L’Oréal USA, has retired from the company. A 27-year L’Oréal USA veteran and a member of the L’Oréal USA Executive Committee, Mr. Bullock spent the last decade building the company’s first office of Diversity & Inclusion.

The annual Personal Care Products Council meeting will be held February 22-24 at the Ritz-Carlton in Naples, FL. The opening general session, “Spotting Trends and Sparking Innovation,” will feature Jeremy Gutsche, Founder of trendhunter.com. Coty Inc. has named New York City-based agency, Euro RSCG Worldwide PR, as the public relations agency of record for the company’s corporate communications business.

Matt Spielman

A study from Total Beauty Media Group shows that despite the influx of celebrity-endorsed fragrances, it’s scents over celebrity association that sell a fragrance. When women were asked how they chose and purchased fragrances, scent strips and in-store trials were the key drivers. MÄURER & WIRTZ, one of Germany’s leading makers of fine fragrances and body care products, has acquired the fragrance business of the BALDESSARINI license from Procter & Gamble.

Givaudan is launching a new version of its iPerfumer app, iPerfumer2. The improved app, allowing people to buy fragrance in an informed way, was inspired by the comments and suggestions of the iPerfumer community. It is available now for download from iTunes. L’Oréal opened its new Kenyan subsidiary, which will be the hub for expanding the Group’s activities in East Africa, a region which also includes Uganda, Tanzania, Rwanda, Burundi and Ethiopia. The Group’s subsidiary in Nigeria opened in September 2011. The NPD Group, Inc. has made an investment in Segmenta, a market research firm that tracks the prestige beauty industry in Mexico, Argentina, Brazil, Columbia, Chile, Peru, Venezuela and Uruguay. Segmenta currently provides retail tracking, including data from over 900 stores. NPD’s backing will support development of additional services. Segmenta now has over 90 clients in the region. J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

Matt Spielman has joined the digital agency Moxie as Senior Vice President, strategy director and overall business leader for L’Oréal. Mr. Spielman will manage the digital agency’s media AOR for L’Oréal USA, partnering with its Chief Marketing Officer and brands to develop strategic digital initiatives.

Maud Pansing

Amway announced the promotion of Maud Pansing to Vice President-Global Beauty. Ms. Pansing joined Amway in May 2010 as Global Brand DirectorBeauty, to lead the strategic development of the Amway brand’s global beauty business including the re-stage of ARTISTRY™ and its three regional mass brands, beautycycle ™ , ATTITUDE™ and MOISKIN™.

Jurlique International Pty. Ltd signed a share purchase agreement with POLA Orbis Holdings Inc (POLA), wherein POLA is purchasing 100% of the shares of Jurlique.

16

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

THEBEAUTYBIZ

INDUSTRY EAR

TerraCycle, the upcycling and recycling pioneer, offers a free collection program called the Personal Care and Beauty Brigade ® in partnership with Garnier. A salon staff member can sign up for the Personal Care and Beauty Brigade® at terracycle.net to send in difficult-to-recycle packaging. Award points for each package received can be put towards charity.


Experience the excitement of our creative process; from discovery through development, to the emotional pleasure and celebration of the final product. Join us and enjoy the journey.

www.givaudan.com


T h e 2 8 th a n n u a l edition of Fragrances Of The World ®, by Michael Edwards, is now available. The 2012 edition features 8,000 fragrances, including 1,000 new entries. The International Fragrance Association, North America (IFRANA) has joined the Safe Cosmetics Alliance and its efforts in supporting new legislation to help safety regulations keep pace with scientific and technological advancements in personal care products.

ping down on January 11 to take a senior leadership role outside the organization. Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors Association will host their inaugural health and wellness event, Get With It...Get Healthy, to benefit Look Good... Feel Better® on February 17 at the Balboa Bay Club in Newport Beach, CA. The top five finalists and winner of The Fragrance Foundation’s 2012 “Indie” FiFi ® Award category will be announced on January 30 at the Elements Showcase. The Showcase will be held at Skylight West in New York City from January 30-31. The first Asian edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit brought together 120 delegates from across the AsiaPacific region in Hong Kong from November 7-8. Major discussions centered on greenwashing and consumer confusion, the lucrative Chinese market, certification and green formulations.

Just the Numbers The 16 th edition of Cosmoprof Asia, held from November 9-11 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, hosted 1,780 exhibitors, up 9% on 2010. The total number of visitors for the three days was 48,503, up 7.5% on 2010.

P&G Beauty & Grooming has launched StyleUnited at styleunited.com, a personalized site that brings beauty and fashion together for a total style source. In partnership with ShopStyle, StyleUnited delivers an exclusive experience to each consumer to help women achieve their best head-to-toe style.

L’Occitane International S.A. announced net sales for the 6-month period ended September 30, 2011 increased 11.3% to €368.5 million, as compared to the period ended September 30, 2010.

International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. announced that Beth E. Ford, Executive Vice President and Head of Supply Chain, has notified the company that she will be step-

Hired in September 2011 as Glamour Publisher, Jason Wagenheim was moved to Teen Vogue in November. Glamour Publishing Director (since 2004) Bill Wackerman resumed his full-time responsibilities with the magazine. Steve Cohn, Editor in Chief, Media Industry Newsletter

MIN’S Monthly Boxscores Source: Media Industry Newsletter <<>> 2011. Title

% of Diff.

YTD 2011

YTD 2010

% of Diff.

DECEMBER 2011

DECEMBER 2010

Allure

110.08

114.34

-3.73

1,178.75

1,168.15

0.91

Cosmopolitan

124.55

111.76

11.44

1,461.97

1,474.34

-0.84

Elle

214.05

209.12

2.36

2,315.73

2,287.46

1.24

Glamour

155.90

176.23

-11.54

1,507.30

1,624.32

-7.20

Harper’s Bazaar

189.61

202.72

-6.47

1,655.69

1,794.05

-7.71

InStyle

288.41

271.22

6.34

2,547.46

2,438.92

4.45

Lucky

116.13

160.32

-27.56

1,119.94

1,232.19

-9.11

Marie Claire

145.31

134.01

8.43

1,428.20

1,343.63

6.29

Vogue

206.81

206.60

0.10

2,514.42

2,306.39

9.02

W

107.82

95.38

13.04

1,089.21

1,031.84

5.56

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

18

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

BF


LOVE NOTES Beauty Fashion’s Guide To Valentine’s Day Fragrances

1

6

Love and fragrance will fill the air this Valentine’s Day with new and classic scents that will be on counters in February.

2

1 Dior J’adore 3.4 oz., $98.00 2 Juicy Couture Viva La Juicy Limited Edition 3.4 oz., $98.00 3 Wonderstruck Taylor Swift 3.4 oz., $59.50

7

4 Lancôme Trésor Midnight Rose 2.5 oz., $75.00 5 Vera Wang Lovestruck 3.4 oz., $78.00

3

6 Fracas de Robert Piguet 3.4 oz., $120.00 7 Rebelle by Rihanna 3.4 oz., $59.00 8 SOMEDAY by Justin Bieber 3.4 oz., $55.00

8

9 Betsey Johnson Too Too 3.4 oz., $82.00 10 Nine West Love Fury 3.4 oz., $55.00 4

9

5

10

(Continued on page 39) J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

19

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


AT-COUNTER

A Walk On The Line Side...With

BLISS’ MIKE INDURSKY

“When you have a unique brand,

Branching At Bliss Spas, Sephora And Lord & Taylor

and you tell its story in an effective way, you’ve got no competition,” affirmed Mike Indursky, President of Bliss. “Bliss is a truly unique brand that starts with the expertise used in highly efficacious spa services and turns them into products you can use at home to make you feel healthy, beautiful and happy.” Mr. Indursky tells that story with a three-prong business model he calls the “machine.” The first prong comprises the Bliss spas and those within hotels. The second prong is the brand’s data base, e-commerce, catalogs and social media. “The third prong, which is probably our most important, is our retail community. We are very selective in our choice of who distributes our products.” Bliss’ products are currently distributed at Sephora, Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, ULTA, Beauty Brands, Sephora at JCPenney, Blue Mercury, QVC, qvc.com, Military, Soft Surroundings, skinstore.com, beauty.com, drugstore.com and independent boutique retailers. “Our retail distribution strategy is predicated on telling the story of Bliss in different ways. We use stores like Sephora, Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s

10:00 A.M. Bliss57 12 West 57th Street New York City, NY

Beauty Fashion’s George Ledes with Bliss’ Susan Grey, Beth Ann Catalano, Mike Indursky and Jill Carlen J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

to tell our story about the premium, the efficacy and the quality [of our products]. We use QVC to tell our story directly to consumers. We use third party spas,” he continued, “chains like Beauty Brands with a spa heritage to also help tell that story.” Bliss currently has an expanding global presence. They have spas in London, Barcelona, Doha, Hong Kong and Saint Petersburg. Retail distribution includes the UK, EEU, Turkey, Russia, Doha, Australia, South Korea, Singapore and Hong Kong. There are future plans to go deeper into Europe and Asia. He maintains that Bliss tells the story of happiness. “In this day and age, when people are so concerned about the economy and the environment, the one thing they want more than anything else is happiness. We are evolving from a spa and personal care company to a lifestyle brand that offers happiness and the achievement of well-being.” Translating the story of happiness to Sephora’s Cast Members and other retailers’ Beauty Advisors is very important, according to Bliss’ Beth Ann Catalano, Senior Vice President, Sales, Education, Sales Operations. “It’s a story they remember to tell.” “We are so proud of our Bliss Technicians,” Mr. Indursky declared. “They build a relationship with the Guest. After the Technician has been working on a Guest’s face for an hour or 75 minutes, they know, like a Dermatologist would, exactly what they need [to take care of their skin]. The Guest is given a Blisscription that is customized for their skin type. They can purchase products to continue that care at home. After they use the products, most of our guests like to go retailers for replenishment. We know for a fact,” he shares, “where we have our spas is where we do our best retail business.” Bliss’ Susan Grey, Regional Director, Spa Operations, shares that all of the Bliss Technicians have Esthetic licenses. “Generally, we hire people who have at least a minimum of five years’ experience in being an Esthetician. However, we rarely have to hire anyone because most of our Estheticians have been with us for 10 to 15 years.”

20

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


11:00 A.M. Sephora Fifth Avenue 597 Fifth Avenue

Bliss’ Guest Service Associate Bianca Beach (c.), wearing a Bliss holiday T-shirt, is joined by Ms. Carlen, Mr. Indursky, Ms. Catalano and Ms. Grey.

Many of Bliss’ Guests have a long-term relationship with the spa, according to Jill Carlen, General Manager of Bliss57. “As the Guests go from their 20s to 30s to 40s and above, the Technicians help them through their agerelated skincare changes.” Bliss is celebrating its fifteenth birthday and, Mr. Indursky proudly noted, “Many of our Technicians have been with us since the very beginning. And we have Guests who have been with those Technicians for 15 years, including celebrities like Liv Tyler and Joan Jett.” “The Technicians are continuously trained on all of the spa services and products at Bliss University,” Ms. Grey reported. “Bliss’ Director of Education gives the Technicians updates on current and new treatments. Our work force also goes out on their own to investigate what’s going on in skincare. Often they will bring back information about a fabulous new technique or ingredient.” “The innovation of spa services and products are completely interwoven,” Mr. Indursky said. “When one of our Guests wanted a lip treatment, a Technician came up with ‘Lip Service,’ and that treatment evolved to our fabulips™, a facial for your lips. We are about to launch FatGirlShrink with Ionithermie technology, a slimming and cellulite-reduction service. People who have tried it so far have loved it.” Energy and freshness are achieved at the Bliss spas with changes in displays every month. The window treatments and vitrines in-store have change-outs and, according to Mr. Indursky, the Technicians wear t-shirts that carry messages depending on the season or a special theme. “It helps to keep the fun in the spa,” he added. “People walk out of a Bliss spa with a smile on their face. They have had a great service and feel empowered to go out in the world.” One of Bliss’ clients commented that Bliss’ marketing “is so witty. I have been coming to this spa for five years after moving to New York City from a small town in Connecticut, and I love all of the friendly faces here.”

Sephora’s Jennifer Ninive with Mr. Indursky and Bliss’ Kimberly Szczepanowski and John Michael Bain

On the stairway to Sephora’s second level are Ms. Ninive, Mr. Bain, Ms. Szczepanowski, Ms. Catalano and Mr. Indursky

According to Bliss’ John Michael Bain, Regional Sales Manager East, “Bliss has had a unique relationship with Sephora for ten years, and we continue to develop and partner with them on key programs.” Bliss’ Starter Series treatment in a box is an opportunity to recruit customers to the brand. Bliss’ new The Youth As We Know It Night Cream is going to be exclusive to Sephora for six months. The gondolas for Bliss products in Sephora are divided into “Face” including special need-specific products like acne treatments and “Body.” According to Mr. Indursky, “Bliss is one of the premier body lines at Sephora.” When editing the product assortment at Sephora, he focuses on innovation with products like the Triple Oxygen Starter Kit, an at-home introduction to the spa’s signature Triple Oxygen Treatment™ facial. “For the Cast Member, it’s an easy-to-know 4-step program of cleanser, mask, eye gel and moisturizing cream. We do the set-up for the customer.” (Continued on page 41)

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

21

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


THELATESTLAUNCHES

NYC New York Color Kiss Gloss in Murray Hill Melon $2.99, March

L’Oréal Paris Voluminous Smoldering Eyeliner $8.95, January

COVERGIRL Queen Collection Vivid Impact Eye Liner in Jade $9.99, January

friday night brights

Sephora Collection Retractable Kabuki Bright in Orange $18.00, February

Maybelline New York SuperStay 10HR Stain Gloss in Cool Coral $8.99, January

Bold and bright hues add a burst of excitement to the palette. Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencil in Woodstock $19.00, February

wet n wild® MegaLast Nail Color in Heatwave $1.99, January ®

Sephora Collection Colorful Eyelash Curler in Amethyst $16.00, February

Iris Apfel for M·A·C Lipstick in Pink Pigeon $14.50, January

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

COVERGIRL LashBlast 24HR Mascara $8.95, January

22

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

THELATESTLAUNCHES

Sinful Colors Nail Polish in Why Not $1.99, March

FIRST LOOK


FIRST LOOK

Bobbi Brown Rich Color Lip Gloss in Pink Gold $23.00, February

Shiseido Makeup Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Pale Shell (PK214) $25.00, February

Guerlain Kiss Kiss Gloss in Frosted Pink $32.00, January

NYC New York Color Showtime Glitter Pencil in Starry Blue Sky $2.49, March Clé de Peau Beauté Luminizing Face Enhancer in Pastel (11) $95.00, March

gilt-y pleasures

wet n wild® Color Icon™ Shimmer Single in Sellout $1.99, January

Add a touch of sparkle and shine with these shimmering introductions.

Shiseido Makeup Shimmering Rouge in Sorbet (PK415) $25.00, February

Sally Hansen Gem Crush™ Nail Color in Be-Jeweled $6.95, March

Estée Lauder Pure Color Illuminating Powder Gelée in Topaz Chameleon $40.00, January

Stila Jewel Eye Shadow in Black Diamond $20.00, January (Continued on page 44)

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

23

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


THEBEAUTYBIZ

Maybelline New York was the official sponsor of the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week 2011 in New York City. Beauty Fashion went backstage to report on the beauty looks by the Makeup Artists that dazzled on Designers’ spring fashion runways.

DAY 1: BCBGMAXAZRIA The Look by Charlotte Willer Maybelline New York Global Makeup Artist

Maybelline New York’s Charlotte Willer applies Fit Me! Blush to create a naturally flushed look.

The Model’s temples get a light dusting of Fit Me! Blush.

“The beauty look at BCBGMAXAZRIA is inspired by a woman who just stepped out of the shower after a long, healthy workout,” Ms. Willer explained. “Fresh, radiant skin is the star. I added a touch of lip balm to the eyelids for a healthy glow.” TO GET THE LOOK: Fit Me! Foundation: she used her hands to apply this sheer foundation all over the face and neck. F i t M e ! Po w d e r : s h e applied powder with a light hand, focusing only Fit Me! Powder and Fit Me! on the T-zone area and Foundation stopping short of a visibly matte effect. Fit Me! Blush in Medium Coral and Deep Plum: she applied Fit Me! Blush somewhat sporadically around the face to create a naturally flushed look, “as if she’s just come in from a long run.” Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched: she applied this nourishing lip balm on models’ lips, letting their natural lip color show through. She also added a layer to models’ eyelids for a subtle sheen—an interesting accent to this otherwise clean look.

DAY 1: WES GORDON The Look by Charlotte Willer

Ms. Willer applies Define-A-Brow Ms. Willer creates a fresh, young Eyebrow Pencil. and elegant look on a Model.

“The beauty look at Wes Gordon can be summed up in three words: fresh, young and elegant,” Ms. Willer said. “The skin is dewy, the brow is strong and the lip pops with a sheer wash of color.” J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

TO GET THE LOOK: Fit Me! Foundation: Perfect, dewy skin is the hallmark of this look. Fit Me! Foundation creates a flawless complexion that looks natural and naked. Define-A-Brow Eyebrow Pencil: Without mascara or eyeliner, The Maybelline New York makeup she focused on creating a strong line-up at the Wes Gordon show brow with this defining pencil. For ultimate definition, choose a shade one to two tones darker than your natural brow. Fit Me! Blush in Medium Coral: she applied Fit Me! Blush to the apples of the cheeks for a youthful glow. Color Sensational Lipcolor in Very Cherry: she dabbed this sheer yet bright red in the center of the lips with her fingertips to create a stained effect and a pouty pop of color. Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched: she finished the look by applying this clear balm over the lip stain for a subtle shine, also adding it to Models’ eyelids to enhance the overall dewy effect.

DAY 3: LIBERTINE The Look by Charlotte Willer

Ms. Willer applies Line Express Eyeliner to create a defined smoky look.

Ms. Willer put all emphasis on the eyes for the Libertine show.

“The beauty look at Libertine is inspired by an edgy girl who has been influenced by graphic 60s prints,” noted Ms. Willer. “Skin is completely bare and natural. Eyes are dark and smoky. And the lips reflect a light from within.” TO GET THE LOOK: Line Express Eyeliner in Ebony Black: she opted not to use blush or foundation. Instead, she put all emphasis on the eyes, creating a defined yet smoky look. She used this Fashions from the Libertine show defining eyeliner all around the upper and lower lid. Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner in Blackest Black: she filled the eyelids in further with this gel liner. Using a small liner brush, she applied the jet-black liner on upper and lower lids creating a strong, 60s cat-eye look. Color Sensational High Shine Lipcolor in Glisten Up Pink: she applied a subtle layer of this lush, berry-colored lipstick to lips—for just a hint of color. She finished with a thin layer of Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched to nourish lips and add an extra touch of light.

24

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

THEBEAUTYBIZ

MAYBELLINE NEW YORK’S SPRING BEAUTY TRENDS


DAY 3: VIVIENNE TAM The Look by Andy Koh Maybelline New York Makeup Artist

Maybelline New York’s A Model gets an application of Eye Studio Andy Koh with Vivienne Tam Color Explosion Luminizing Eyeshadow.

“The makeup look at Vivienne Tam is inspired by the beauty of a Japanese zen garden,” Mr. Koh explained. “The skin is clean and natural, while the lashes are long and curled. Metallic eyes and lips give this look a modern 70s vibe.” TO GET THE LOOK: Fit Me! Foundation: he used two different shades of this perfecting foundation to create flattering contours and angles. He used a light shade to focus on the T-zone area and a deeper shade around A Model’s lips are slicked with Color Sensational High the outer edges of the face. Eye Studio Color Explosion Shine Lipcolor. Luminizing Eyeshadow in Forest Fury: Inspired by a 1970s metallic eye, he applied the gold and green shadows from this palette to the upper eyelid. Eye Studio Color Plush Silk Eyeshadow in Irresistible Ivy: he applied this palette’s copper shade to the upper crease. He also applied the copper shade to the outer corner of the lower lid to create a “glowy” effect. Volum’ Express The Falsies Waterproof Mascara in Black Drama: he used this dramatic mascara on top and bottom lashes to create long, thick, 70s-inspired eyelashes. Color Sensational High Shine Lipcolor in Coral Luster: he applied this sumptuous lipstick to add color and shine to the lips. He finished the look with Shine Sensational Lip Gloss in Minty Sheer.

Day 4: DKNY The Look by Charlotte Willer

Ms. Willer with Donna Karan

Models with a fresh, sun-kissed, glowing look at the DKNY show

“The beauty look at DKNY is inspired by a California girl who has come to New York,” Ms. Willer noted. “It’s about the simplicity of beauty—fresh, sun-kissed and glowing.” TO GET THE LOOK: She prepped skin with a light layer of Fit Me! Foundation. She then used a mix of bronzer and blush to create a sun-kissed “California Girl” glow. She started by applying Fit Me! Bronzer in Light Bronze to the temples, top of the cheeks and eyelids. J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

Next, she applied Fit Me! Blush in Deep Rose to the middle of the cheeks, where a natural flush would appear. Eye Studio Color Explosion L u m i n i z i n g E ye s h a d o w i n Caffeine Rush: she applied the An explosion of hats at the lightest shade from this neutral DKNY show palette to the inner corners of the eyes. She applied the light beige shade all over the eyelids and up to the brow bone for a subtle, glowing look. Volum’ Express One-by-One Mascara: she added instant drama to the eyes with this clump-free, volumizing mascara. “We need to create definition with a strong lash so the eyes won’t be lost among the beautiful hats in this collection,” she said. She called extra attention to the eye area with perfectly groomed brows. She used Define-A-Brow Eyebrow Pencil to fill in gaps—creating a perfect frame to the face. Color Sensational High Shine Lipcolor in Glisten Up Pink: She created a natural flush to the lips by dabbing this lush pink shade on with her fingertip. She finished the lips with a layer of Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched.

DAY 4: CUSTO BARCELONA The Look by Gato Zamora Maybelline New York Makeup Artist

Maybelline New York’s Gato Zamora placed all emphasis on the brows with Define-ABrow Eyebrow Pencil.

A Model’s face is sculpted with Fit Me! Bronzer.

“The beauty look at Custo Barcelona is summery and cyberinspired. A very modern take on natural beauty,” Mr. Zamora informed. “Skin is flawless and almost silicone-like. Brows are strong and graphic. And the lips have a sweet, shiny look.” TO GET THE LOOK: Dream Liquid Mousse Foundation: he perfected skin with this mousse foundation. He applied all over the face using his fingertips. He then applied Fit Me! Concealer to hide darkness and Maybelline New York’s makeup imperfections. He contoured used in the Custo Barcelona show and sculpted the face with Fit Me! Bronzer. To add color and give cheeks dimension, he finished the face with Fit Me! Blush in Medium Coral, applying just to the apples of the cheeks. Define-A-Brow Eyebrow Pencil: he opted not to use eyeshadow or mascara. Instead, he placed all emphasis on brows, creating a strong, defined look. He used Define-A-Brow Pencil to fill in natural shape. He used the product’s built-in brush to further groom and lift brows, without changing their natural shape. Color Sensational High Shine Lipcolor in Coral Lustre: to add a punch of color and mirror-like shine to this “cyber-inspired” look, he gave models a juicy, coral lip. (Continued on page 48)

25

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


THEPARTYSCENE

THEPARTYSCENE

on the avenue The Beauty Of Giving P&G’s Gina Drosos and CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson join L’Oréal Paris’ Karen Fondu and Kate Sweeney of the CEW Foundation. Elysée Scientific Cosmetics’ Jill Granoff with P&G’s Damon Jones Linda Marshall with Jeannine and Charlene Patten Shao Collins of Meredith 360 Lord & Taylor’s Blair Bloedorn, Sally Shaw and Barbara Zinn-Moore with Dana Kline of Fusion Brands

Avon’s Debbie Coffey, Susan Arnot-Heaney and Nancy Glaser

Firmenich’s Annie Buzantian and Westly Morris with Lori Singer of Coty

Gurwitch Products’ Claudia Poccia and Ellen Greenwald (r.) and Macy’s Nancy Schmidt with Laura Mercier

Reckitt Benckiser’s Pam Asplund (2nd l.) and Sara Bovo (2nd r.) join Robertet’s Joseph Lattarulo, Christophe Maubert and Jérôme Epinette.

Shiseido’s Jen Vasile, Gisela Ballard and Christina Iwasko

Coty’s Laurie Welsh (c.) with Robertet’s Ray Hone and Christopher Habeck

The Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) Foundation hosted its annual Beauty of Giving Luncheon at the Waldorf=Astoria on December 9. The event, which featured a live auction, raised $583,000 to benefit Cancer and Careers—the CEW Foundation’s charity initiative that provides a wide range of resources for those in the work force managing their cancer treatment and recovery. During the ceremony, CEW recognized its Founders’ Circle, which includes Avon Products, Inc, The Estée Lauder Companies, Genentech, (Continued on page 49)

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

26

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


THEBEAUTYBIZ

S

haron Collier was recently named CEO of Cover FX, known as “The Foundation Authority.” Ms. Collier met with Beauty Fashion to discuss the brand and how it has evolved from corrective makeup to be an international foundation resource. “What drew me to this brand is the passion of its Co-Creator, Lee Graff,” she explained. Ms. Graff, a corrective makeup specialist, worked with Canadian Dermatologist, Dr. Neil H. Shear, to provide corrective concealers for his patients. “When the patients left Dr. Shear’s office, they had more confidence and felt good about themselves.” Ms. Graff began to color-match and and play with textures for every product while working at a Canadian CosMedic Clinic. There she created makeup for patients, one at a time, that were named after each individual. “Lee began to get patient referrals from many Doctors, so she came up with a way to classify and categorize the different shades based on the skin’s undertone. Dr. Shear tested all of these products. There are no parabens or pollutants in any of the makeup,” Ms. Collier informed. Sharon Collier As the business grew, Ms. Graff asked Shoppers Drug Mart to give her a little space in their store where she could see clients. “This was a very entrepreneurial concept, and Lee got a little corner in a Shoppers Drug Mart with an installation for her products.” This grew the business, which became Cover FX in 2000. Now, the company produces SKUs in a wide variety of coverage options, textures and finishes to match every skin tone. “All of the products are formulated in Canada, working with a lab there,” Ms. Collier said, “and Lee is still involved in every facet of product development as well as working with Doctors.” “A point of difference that excites me about this brand is its medical heritage,” she noted. “Consumers are concerned about what they put on their skin, and the fact that Dr. Shear has signed off on all of these products resonates with me.” “Another huge point of difference that really defines the brand is our ability to offer 40-plus shades for women of every skin color. Lee always says, ‘We are very inclusive.’ And what is really exciting is that women are saying, ‘I’ve finally found my shade of foundation.’” Ms. Collier foresees that the prep and prime products the company is currently developing will be “a sleeping giant.” Cover FX is launching some new prep products at the end of 2012 that contain anti-aging ingredients. Currently, Cover FX’s line is available at coverfx.com, select Shoppers Drug Mart, (Pharmaprix, The Bay and Sephora in Canada. In the U.S., the products are found at select Sephora stores, sephora.com, dermstore.com, skinstore.com and in the UK at House of Fraser, houseoffraser.com, Harvey Nichols and harveynichols.com. Ms. Collier regards HSN as another important point of distribution. “It’s a fabulous opportunity for us to tell our story. We were on some shows last year and are currently fine-tuning the presentation for airing this spring.” In order to educate the customer how to apply the formulas to obtain maximum results, Cover FX has a very active sales force, trained by Ms. Graff, that travels to various markets in the US to teach application techniques to the Sephora teams. They then carry the message to Sephora’s Cast Members. Ms. Collier disclosed that Cover FX is currently engaged in sharpening the brand’s image. “We are working with a branding agency—AR New York—to help us better communicate to the consumer through our packaging and positioning.” Looking to the future, Ms. Collier would like to have flagship stores in major cities “with our own installations and demonstrations where the foundation-challenged customer can go in and experience the best service Cover FX offers.” In product assortment, she would like to see Cover FX “begin to move from corrective into enhancement and beauty.” BF

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

27

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

THEBEAUTYBIZ

SHARON COLLIER’S NEW ROLE AT COVER FX


THEBEAUTYBIZ

CELEBRITY SCENTS

The Fragrance Foundation held a panel discussion on December 2 at the Time-Life Building in Manhattan that explored the impact of celebrity-driven scents. The evening’s panel included Terry Darland, President of Parfums Christian Dior; Linda Levy, Vice President, Marketing, Cosmetics & Fragrances of Macy’s; Ron Rolleston, Executive Vice President, Creative & Business Development of Elizabeth Arden and Theo Spilka, Vice President, New Business Development & Licensing Worldwide of Firmenich. A roundup of facts and figures was provided by Karen Grant, Vice President Beauty/Senior Global Industry Analyst for The NPD Group. With the recent, record-breaking successes of several star-fueled launches, the significance of the celebrity fragrance category only becomes more apparent. Elizabeth Arden’s Ron Rolleston, Macy’s Linda Levy and Parfums Christian Dior’s Ms. Grant informed the audience that there Terry Darland with The NPD Group’s Karen Grant and Theo Spilka of Firmenich has been a six-fold increase in the number of individual celebrities creating scents since 2002; and that since then, celebrity fragrance sales, not including celebrity-endorsed scents, have so far raked in over $1.3 billion. The strength of celebrity scents was particularly visible in 2011 with two major successes. “We saw a turnaround in fragrance sales in the second half of 2011, which can be attributed to the key launches of SOMEDAY by Justin Bieber and Wonderstruck Taylor Swift,” Ms. Grant stated.

The Fragrance Foundation’s Rochelle Bloom with SGD’s Peter Acerra and Shéhérazade Chamlou J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

Macy’s Nancy Schmidt with Ms. Levy and The NPD Group’s Diane Nicholson

(Continued on page 54)

28

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

THEBEAUTYBIZ

THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION HOSTS A CONVERSATION ON


The fall 2011 launch of Paco Rabanne 1 Million and Lady Million at Macy’s has been a huge success for PUIG US. But, this success didn’t happen by accident; a big focus for the launch was the comprehensive training program. The program, directed by Vice President of Trade Marketing for PUIG US, Beth Carr, and orchestrated by the Manager of Education for PUIG US, Leah Dean, featured a multi-faceted, interactive and fun approach to training that truly excited all the sales staff about the Paco Rabanne Million brands. PUIG US’ Leah Dean Ms. Dean said, “I didn’t want the training to be just about the olfactory; I wanted to immerse them in the excessive and lavish Paco Rabanne Million world—I wanted to create a memorable training first and foremost; then, I knew it would provoke their desire to learn and truly understand the brand.” The training program featured many formats from webinars to cocktail parties. The webinar provided local Retail Managers (RM) with the knowledge and guidelines to orchestrate their local trainings. Additional training materials were created and provided to the Retail Managers, which included demonstration kits, CD-ROMs, and selling sheets. With these materials, the RM could easily give the same presentation that Ms. Dean provides. The cocktail parties were held in key retail markets and featured an interactive training session, hosted by Ms. Dean, which expressed all the glamour and fun of the Million universe. From an educational standpoint, “the training aptly focuses on the history of Paco Rabanne,” Ms. Dean said. “I found that most people did not know much about him or the brand—and this is key to understanding the 1 Million man and Lady Million.” Mr. Rabanne is famous for his 1960’s collection of gold, metal and rhodoid dresses that truly pushed the accepted limits of fashion. His creativity, innovation and flamboyance resonate prominently in the Million brands, from the gold, metallic packaging to the innovative bottle design. Also, there is an emphasis on gold in the training; how precious it is, as well as what Ms. Dean leads a training session for PUIG US fragrances. it evokes and inspires. And of course, the fragrance itself is discussed in detail with an emphasis on the uniqueness and sensuality of the scents. Ms. Dean enthused, “There are unexpected olfactive elements in both 1 Million and Lady Million—and this eccentricity is what makes them so Paco Rabanne!” This comprehensive style training program was also utilized for the launch of Prada Candy in fall 2011 within specialty stores, and there are big plans for the training program for the new Valentino fragrance that PUIG US will launch this spring. Ms. Dean shared with us about the new project, “The story is really captivating—so Italian—I want to sweep everyone away to Rome for the training session…well, we can dream, right?” BF

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

29

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

AT-COUNTER

AT-COUNTER

CounterCulture


C

osmetic Executive Women (CEW) held a Women in Beauty Series event on November 30 at the Harmonie Club in Manhattan that featured leaders from L’Oréal USA discussing how to reach and connect to today’s consumer in the shifting retail landscape. The conversation included Silvia Galfo, Vice President, Makeup and Fragrances, Marketing U.S. of Lancôme and Nathalie Kristo, Senior Vice President of L’Oréal Paris, offering insights from both the mass and prestige markets. With an overall resurgence in sales for the prestige category in 2011, Lancôme, too, saw an uptick in its numbers that Ms. Galfo attributed to innovation and newness. “New innovations through the second half of the year are keeping our numbers up. We saw

CEW’s Jill Scalamandre and Carlotta Jacobson (r.) with L’Oréal Paris’ Nathalie Kristo and Silvia Galfo of Lancôme

L’Oréal Paris’ Erica Bowen, Karen Fondu and Lisa Capparelli

Laura Geller Beauty Ingenuity’s Laura Geller (c.) with Script to Screen’s Tony Kerry and Ken Kerry

strong growth with the key launch of Visionnaire [LR 2412 4%] Advanced Skin Corrector, which was in development for 12 years,” she informed. “Hypnôse Doll Lashes Mascara and Trésor Midnight Rose also added to this growth.” While newness at-counter is imperative, a brand’s commitment to its customers remains essential. Ms. Kristo discussed L’Oréal Paris’ effort to target consumers based on region. A recent promotion with Walmart in predominantly

Univision’s Julie Pinkwater with Meredith 360’s Jeannine Shao Collins and Dorene Bair

Arcade Marketing’s Taylor Ryan, Marine Ravera and Diane Crecca

(Continued on page 53) J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

30

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

THEBEAUTYBIZ

THEBEAUTYBIZ

Insights From L’ORÉAL USA At CEW’s Women In Beauty Series Event


AT-COUNTER

GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY CELEBRATES 10TH ANNIVERSARY AT SAKS FIFTH AVENUE Giorgio Armani Beauty opened its new installation at Saks Fifth Avenue’s New York flagship store in 2001. To celebrate this milestone, the brand held a special event on November 30 themed as “Get Gorgeous Now Celebrating 10 years of Beauty with Giorgio Armani.” Giorgio Armani Beauty’s Celebrity Makeup Artist Tim Quinn and MORE magazine’s Beauty Director Genevieve Monsma teamed up to host the event for customers.

Giorgio Armani Beauty’s Kelly Thompson, Tim Quinn (c.) and Karen Levine (r.) with MORE magazine’s Genevieve Monsma and Christine Guilfoyle

Saks’ Deborah Walters and L’Oréal USA’s Marc Rey toast Giorgio Armani Beauty’s first decade at the flagship store.

Saks’ Karyn Benvenuto (2nd r.) with Ms. Monsma, Mr. Quinn and Ms. Guilfoyle at the display of MORE magazine’s new book 287 Secrets Of Reinventing Your Life, Big And Small Ways To Embrace New Possibilities

From its original location, Giorgio Armani Beauty moved on September 30 to its new space on Saks’ beauty floor. The installation is on the main aisle by the elevators and the valet entrance to the store. The new, 21st century, state-ofthe-art installation is more vertical in its presentations than its previous location. There is a Foundation Wardrobe to display the makeup, which produces a high percentage of Giorgio Armani Beauty’s business in the store. While the Giorgio Armani Beauty installation is black, skincare is highlighted in its white space. Present at the opening of the original Giorgio Armani Beauty space at Saks, Mr. Quinn declared, “The magic of Giorgio Armani transcends time, and I’m happy to be here 10 years later.” He maintains that the new space for Giorgio Armani Beauty is “more people-friendly. Customers feel more at home here and empowered to come in and play with the products.”

Giorgio Armani Beauty’s Marcy Giordonello, Lisa Beshlian, Ms. Levine, Rhona Samuels, Mr. Rey, Celina Esteban, Marc Stillman and Jenna Kauffman

Ms. Samuels applies makeup to a customer at Giorgio Armani Beauty’s Foundation Wardrobe.

Mr. Rey and Ms. Guilfoyle greet customers at the 10th anniversary celebration of Giorgio Armani Beauty at Saks.

Christine Guilfoyle, Publisher of MORE magazine, noted that Giorgio Armani Beauty “has been a valuable partner with MORE for the past several years. It’s a marriage of two very complementary brands. We are thrilled to celebrate Giorgio Armani Beauty’s 10 years at Saks and a kick-off to the holiday season.” In honor of its 10th anniversary at Saks, Giorgio Armani Beauty offered a special GWP. With a $75.00 purchase of Giorgio Armani Beauty products, customers received a foundation blender brush and a copy of 287 Secrets Of Reinventing Your Life, Big And Small Ways To Embrace New Possibilities by the Editors of MORE magazine. BF J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

31

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

AT-COUNTER

MILESTONES


AT-COUNTER

B

Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore is led into her 10th anniversary surprise party by Lord & Taylor’s Liz Rodbell.

arbara Zinn-Moore, Lord & Taylor’s Senior Vice President/GMM for Cosmetics and Fragrance, was given a surprise party by her team to celebrate her tenth anniversary at Lord & Taylor. A highlight of the event was the presentation to Ms. Zinn-Moore of the book, 10 Beautiful Years at Lord & Taylor—a collection of photos taken throughout her career at the retailer. Ms. Zinn-Moore’s staff researched the photos in a secret project over several months and successfully kept it under wraps Ms. Zinn-Moore and Ms. Rodbell hold the book 10 Beautiful Years at Lord & Taylor. until her party on December 15. Ms. Zinn-Moore declared to the Lord & Taylor team, “There is really no adequate way to thank you for today and the amazing, fantastic ‘memory book’ that you tirelessly put together. To say the book is special simply does not do it justice. It is simply brilliant.

Ms. Zinn-Moore (2nd l.) with Lord & Taylor’s Marti Moore, Blair Bloedorn and Ms. Rodbell

Ms. Zinn-Moore looks through the collection of photos commemorating her ten years at Lord & Taylor.

Ms. Zinn-Moore (3rd l.) with Lord & Taylor’s Susan Eydenberg, Beth Ravalico, Sally Shaw, Nicole Grochmal and Lauren Levin

(Rear) Ms. Zinn-Moore (3rd r.) with Lord & Taylor’s Maria Harder, Abigail Rogado, Corinne Brohme, Alison Flack, Donna DeCaprio and (front) Melida Carreno

Ms. Zinn-Moore (2nd l.) with Lord & Taylor’s Melissa D’Aquila, Alexandra Langway, Melissa McCole, Alison Dehoney and (front) Kim Liebovitz and Jessica DiBenedetto

The photos are just amazing and really do span the wonderful ten years I’ve been part of Lord & Taylor. The quotes are so special and warm as well as very, very touching.” “I am so touched that you undertook this project for me—Liz, the Buyers, the ABs, Donna and to the ‘A’ team of Amy, Abigail and Ali. I am so proud to be part of this very amazing family. Thank you for a truly special gift.” BF J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

32

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

AT-COUNTER

Zinn-Moore Feted By TH L&T On 10 Anniversary


THEBEAUTYBIZ

Amway Independent Business Owners Share Their Sales Tips For Success Julie Mulliniks Amway Independent Business Owner Forest, Virginia Julie Mulliniks was a full-time college student and working as a waitress when she realized she and her husband needed something more to make ends meet. After hearing about the Amway business opportunity, she knew she had nothing to lose by giving it a try. Julie is now eight years into the business and very passionate about teaching others how to take good care of their skin with ARTISTRY skincare and cosmetics. “So many women do not know that quality products can result in great skin, so this is a way for me to help them gain confidence,” she shared. “The more I sell ARTISTRY, the more my confidence is lifted as I see the confidence in my customers grow while using the products.” Julie engages in many selling methods to keep her customer relationships strong. She uses a product survey, provided by ARTISTRY, to ensure that she personalizes the skincare items her clients need and not solely focus on the products that she wants to sell. “Gaining trust and developing a relationship is the best way to introduce more products,” said Julie. After every appointment, Julie tries to gain relationships by asking her customers if they know of anyone else who would like the ARTISTRY brand. “I am confident in the sales I make, because I am confident about the brand. Overall, it is most important to walk away having learned something,” Julie affirmed. “Take action; it might be uncomfortable, but you have to go out there and know you will learn along the way.”

Barbara Hill Amway Independent Business Owner Fairfax, Virginia Barbara Hill believes that ARTISTRY skincare and cosmetics is a perfect line to use for photo shoots of any sort. She and her IBO team of makeup professionals focus on using ARTISTRY to make brides look amazing on their most photographed day. ARTISTRY gives a flawless, airbrush-type finish, which photographs beautifully. Barbara started Bridal Artistry in 2001 and has taken the business from one (herself) to a team of 13 professional Makeup Artists, all of whom use the ARTISTRY brand. “My clients comment on how great the makeup feels on their complexions and how long it lasts. It makes me proud that my team and I are representing a brand that is prestige and devoted to the highest quality standards,” stated Barbara. She believes that being a professional Makeup Artist and using ARTISTRY makeup on her clients helps build credibility for the brand. “The women I work with trust my expertise, therefore, they trust in the quality of the ARTISTRY line. I love knowing that I am using the best,” said Barbara. To maintain a relationship with the brides she works with, Barbara offers a free makeup lesson after the wedding and refers them to her Web site. Barbara and her team assist more than 100 bridal parties every year with their makeup needs. “It is most important,” she said, “to work within their comfort zone. If they don’t feel comfortable, they won’t feel beautiful.” (Continued on page 56)

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

33

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

THEBEAUTYBIZ

MAKING SALES


THEBEAUTYBIZ

Performance in First Half 2011

Prestige Skincare Face: Anti-Aging

Dollar Performance First Half 2009 – First Half 2011

By Mariangela Gisonda, Category Specialist, Skincare, The NPD Group, Inc.

15%

The complexion of the skincare market so far in 2011 is smooth and clear. For the year-to-date June 2011 time period, prestige skincare dollars increased 12 percent versus first-half 2010. This has been the strongest first-half performance for prestige skincare in the last three years. Driving the category’s growth was the face segment, which accounts for the majority of skincare dollars, posting a dollar gain of 12 percent. Three areas helped prompt this growth: anti-aging, brightening, and premium face products, all of which outpaced total prestige skincare dollar growth.

9% -5% 1H 2009

Mariangela Gisonda Category Specialist, Skincare,

Prestige Skincare Face: Brightening*

The NPD Group, Inc.

Dollar Performance First Half 2009 – First Half 2011

68%

1H 2009

Sets & Kits Body Sun Hair

n/c 9% 7%

100% 81% 23% 8% 4% 3% 3%

1H 2011

Prestige Skincare Face: Premium Face Products ($75+)*

Dollar Performance First Half 2009 – First Half 2011

19%

Source: The NPD Group/Women’s Skincare In-Depth Report — Special Focus: Facial Skincare, August 2011; Anti-Aging and the Female Consumer Report, December 2010; A Snapshot Report on Beauty Consumer Reactions to the Economy, Third Ed., January 2011 Learn more. Contact Charles Camaroto at 866-444-1411 or email contactnpd@npd.com. About The NPD Group, Inc. The NPD Group is the leading provider of reliable and comprehensive consumer and retail information for a wide range of industries. Today, more than 1,800 manufacturers, retailers, and service companies rely on NPD to help them drive critical business decisions at the global, national, and local market levels. NPD helps our clients to identify new business opportunities and guide product development, marketing, sales, merchandising, and other functions. Information is available for the following industry sectors: automotive, beauty, commercial technology, consumer technology, entertainment, fashion, food and beverage, foodservice, home, office supplies, software, sports, toys, and wireless. For more information, visit npd.com.

-5% 1H 2009

34

4% 1H 2010

1H 2011

* Facial skincare products with an average price of $75 or higher

npd.com

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

1H 2010

Source: The NPD Group/BeautyTrends® Retail Tracking Service — U.S.

Dollar Share

12% 12%

19%

5%

* Products which provide an even skintone and lighten dark spots and/or hyper-pigmentation

Prestige Skincare Segment

Dollar Performance and Share, First Half 2011

Face

1H 2011

Source: The NPD Group/BeautyTrends® Retail Tracking Service — U.S.

Consumers’ shopping habits have changed, as they are taking fewer risks and are more likely to do their research online before making a purchase. Although the economy is still fragile, consumers are willing to open their wallets for a worthy purchase. In fact, consumers have told us they are willing to pay more for effective products and for those that provide antiaging benefits. In addition, when women have extra money to spend and choose to splurge on beauty, skincare wins the “$100 test.” An extra $100 to spend would be more likely put toward facial skincare than fragrance or makeup, evidence that women want to put their best face forward.

Total

1H 2010

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

Source: The NPD Group/BeautyTrends® Retail Tracking Service — U.S.

THEBEAUTYBIZ

Prestige Skincare Puts Its Best Face Forward


REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS

BOSTON BEAUTY

Clarins’ Jonathan Zrihen and Philip Shearer at the opening of the new Bloomingdale’s Clarins Skin Spa

Clarins and Bloomingdale’s executives toasted the opening of the new Clarins Skin Spa, at the department store’s Chestnut Hill location, with breakfast and a ribbon-cutting ceremony. The French beauty brand launched this venture with the goal of doubling its business in Chestnut Hill over the next two years, according to Clarins North America President and CEO Jonathan Zrihen. “[Bloomingdale’s] Chestnut Hill has a very loyal consumer base that spends time in the store and is used to great service and amazing products,” he said. “We are very proud to partner with a store that carries such a prestigious assortment of brands and has such a strong philosophy of delighting customers.”

The in-store treatment room

The Clarins team at Bloomingdale’s in Chestnut Hill

The spa—an extended two-room space within the cosmetics department—will offer Clarins’ Melting Honey Hot Stone Massage, previously only available at the Madison Avenue location in New York, in addition to the company’s Tri-Active Facials. “The massage features a new professional product—an oil with a unique texture—and uniquely-shaped stones that adapt to the specific contours of the body to guarantee efficient results and complete relaxation,” declared Mr. Zrihen. Now in its 58 th year of business, Clarins launched its US branch in 1981 and opened its first American spa in 2009 in Newport Beach, California. The Bloomingdale’s Chestnut Hill outpost is its 13th in the country and the first in Massachusetts. BF Clarins’ Danyelle Boilard and Mr. Zrihen

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

35

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS

by Brittany Jasnoff


REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS

TAR HEEL TRIANGLE

Nordstrom’s Susan Hussey indulges shoppers with a sample of Angel by Thierry Mugler.

More than 400 people browsed and shopped during Nordstrom’s Designer Fragrance Showcase last November at the Streets at Southpoint Mall in Durham, NC. The 4-day event launched the holiday season shopping spree for perfume wearers who wanted to sniff their way through some of the top scents of the season along with classic favorites. Patrons were treated to deluxe samples and received a complimentary mirrored perfume tray with a $150.00 purchase. “It’s our biggest fragrance event of the year,” noted Ralph Johnson, Assistant Manager of CosmetNordstrom’s Ralph Johnson ics at Nordstrom.

Nordstrom’s Kathy Creque and Lancôme’s Behnaz Asgari during the store’s annual fragrance event J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

Kathy Creque, Fragrance Specialist at Nordstrom, said one of the store’s most popular fragrances is Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf. Ms. Creque’s personal favorite is Burberry Body, which she said is ideal for day or night. She adds that it’s nice to layer the scent with the corresponding Body Cream. Meanwhile, Nords t r o m ’s Fr a g r a n c e Specialist Susan Hussey greeted customers with wafts of A n g e l b y Th i e r r y Mugler. The oriental gourmand scent, with its notes of patchouli, vanilla, chocolate and caramel, is always a hit with shoppers. Jasmine Lawless, Assistant Manager of Cosmetics at Nord- Nordstrom’s Jasmine Lawless showstrom, showcased ELIE cases ELIE SAAB Le Parfum. SAAB Le Parfum and Diane by Diane Von Furstenberg during the event and enticed younger customers with Taylor Swift Wonderstruck and Prada Candy. Caroline Glover attends the event every year and was delighted by all of the fragrance choices. Ms. Glover says if she’s going to spend several hundred dollars on fragrances, she enjoys being pampered by the Fragrance Specialists at Nordstrom. She likes taking home samples to try and then returning to the store once she’s nailed down her picks. “I like the personalized service,” she said. “They really take care of me.” BF Customer Caroline Glover and Nordstrom’s Jennifer Buen Viaje bond over fragrance.

36

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS

by Bridgette A. Lacy

SITTING PRETTYIN THE


FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS

PARIS

by Sarah Colton

Firmenich and black|Up

Les Parfums Firmenich hosted a starstudded evening filled with Perfumers for the launch of the book, Les Parfums by Elizabeth de Feydeau, published by Firmenich and Éditions Robert Laffont. For Les Parfums, Ms. de Feydeau, perfume Historian and Writer, has outdone herself in research to com- Firmenich’s Yvan Bagnis with Elizabeth de Feydeau pile a vast and substantive source of perfume history, stories, interviews, definitions, classifications and anecdotes that will find its rightful place in perfume literature and in Perfumers’ libraries.

black|Up’s Georgina Adeoti, Daw M’baye and Christelle Laroche with Firmenich’s Dora Baghriche

Imaginary Liquids Firmenich and black|Up Cosmetics celebrated the creation of black|Up’s first fragrance, created by Firmenich’s Perfumer Dora Baghriche, with a presentation to the press at the Firmenich offices in Paris. Founded in 1999, black|Up Cosmetics is the first luxury makeup artist brand created by professional Makeup Artists for ethnic skin tones and women of color, yet is suitable for all women. Today black|Up Cosmetics is France’s #1 ethnic makeup brand, distributed in approximately 200 retail locations, including department stores and specialty cosmetics stores such as Printemps, Galleries Lafayette, Sephora, Mariannaud, Douglas, and duty-free Cosmétiques and Parfums Beauty Fashion’s Sarah Colton Aélia. Black|Up also receiving a makeup demonstration from Ms. Adeoti has a strong presence in other European countries, Africa and the Caribbean. Although not yet available in stores in the US, Americans can purchase products online at blackupcosmetics.com.

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

Givaudan’s Jacques Huclier and Sonia Constant with the three Imaginary Liquids—Tumultu, Fortis and Sancti

Pushing the limits of traditional perfumery, Les Liquides Imaginaires [Imaginary Liquids] are a trio of limited-edition perfumes. Created by Givaudan Perfumers Sonia Constant and Jacques Huclier for the French Designer, Philippe Di Méo, the fragrances are named S a n c t i , Fo r t i s a n d Tumultu. There are only forty editions available of each 250 ml perfume, for the price of $260.00. There

37

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

Display at L’Hôtel La Maison, near the Champs Elysées, featuring the Tumultu “Amphorae Reliquiae.”

(Continued on page 56)

FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS

NOTES FROM


FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS

“Our customers are our number one concern, and quite often their number one concern is convenience. The Nail Bar provides the highest level of service and convenience where customers can also interact with our technicians who can provide attention and information on all products in the Revlon range,” said Carla Sheehan, Brand Manager, Revlon. “By being able to engage with and purchase our products in one location, the convenience of the shopping experience is heightened for our consumers.” “The pop of color and the interaction the Nail Bar have provided with the brand have been given such a positive response. Customers love the concept of the sushi train and having the ability to choose from an array of colors.” Revlon Nail Bar’s Nail Technicians Milena Jovanov and Kylie Ehrlich

Revlon’s Australian cosmetics team has developed a new in-store initiative for engaging in a one-on-one service with its nail customers. Called the Nail Bar, it is an installation in limited doors where customers can go to receive all types of manicures—from an express to a deluxe treatment. The store features a delightful way of showcasing the nail enamels by having the bottles rotate on a train, much like at a sushi bar.

The Revlon Nail Bar offers full manicure services in-store.

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

The Revlon Nail Bar provides a wide menu of nail services by professional, trained Aestheticians.

38

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

BF

FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS

BEAUTY AUSTRALIA

by Andrea Ferrari


1

LOVE NOTES Beauty Fashion’s Guide

6

To Valentine’s Day Fragrances (continued from page 19)

2 1 Bath & Body Works Pink Chiffon 2.5 oz., $29.50 2 Estée Lauder Beautiful 2.5 oz., $72.00 3 Bond No. 9 Madison Square Park $3.4 oz., $240.00

7 8

4 Ralph Lauren Romance 3.4 oz., $82.00 5 Prada Candy 2.7 oz., $108.00 6 Oscar de la Renta live in love 3.4 oz., $98.00 7 Coach Poppy Flower 3.4 oz., $85.00 8 Paco Rabanne Lady Million 2.7 oz., $88.00

3

9 Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial 100 ml, $119.00 10 Judith Leiber Topaz 2.5 oz., $175.00

5

9

11 CHANEL Coco Mademoiselle 3.4 oz., $115.00

11

10 4

11

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

39

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


1

LOVE NOTES Beauty Fashion’s Guide To Valentine’s Day Fragrances

6

1 Marc Jacobs Lola 3.4 oz., $88.00 2 Angel by Thierry Mugler 2.6 oz., $190.00 3 Narciso Rodriguez for her eau de toilette délicate 4.2 oz., $102.00 4 Especially Escada 1.7 oz., $62.00

7

5 L’Eau de Chloé 3.4 oz., $85.00 6 Annick Goutal Le Muguet 3.4 oz., $120.00

2

9

7 Calvin Klein forbidden euphoria 3.4 oz., $80.00 8 I Fancy You Jessica Simpson 3.4 oz., $59.00

8

9 David Yurman Delicate Essence Eau de Toilette 3.4 oz., $85.00 3

10 Versace Yellow Diamond 3.4 oz., $88.00

5

4

10

5

BF J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

40

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


A Walk On The Line Side...With BLISS’ MIKE INDURSKY (continued from page 21)

Ms. Catalano reported, “600 Bliss Account Executives across the country visit all of our distribution. Our training program is consistent in every single one of our locations. We want the Cast Member to be saying the same as our Beauty Advisor in Neiman Marcus or Bloomingdale’s. A part of our brand image is all about education.”

explained. “There is no real difference between the services and retail in freestanding Bliss spas and those in hotel-owned spas. There are two different business models for our hotel spas. We either own/operate the spa and pay rent to a facility, which might be a W Hotel or manage hotel-owned spas.” “In our relationship with W, we work with the hotel to

Noon Bliss49 In The W Hotel 541 Lexington Avenue

Mr. Stein, Ms. Flotteron, Mr. Indursky and Ms. LaFevers model Glamour Gloves™. Ms. Catalano and Mr. Indursky (2nd r.) with Bliss’ 15-year veteran Jordan Stein, Jocelyn Flotteron and Victoria LaFevers

Mr. Indursky showcases the retail area designed by protocol to fit into the spa treatment programs.

The Bliss49 devotes the first floor to retail with nail stations to service Guests. The spa services are performed on the W Hotel’s fourth floor where another retail area is located for Guests who can shop with their Blisscription after a treatment. The retail areas are designed by protocol to fit into the spa treatment programs. “Bliss49 was the first spa to be located in a W Hotel. We now have 18 Bliss Spas in W Hotels,” Mr. Indursky J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

Mr. Indursky (c.) with Bliss’ Basey Ibragimov, Jackie Ustoveva, Yvette Carpenter and Ashley Webb

A Guest enjoys a Hot Cream Manicure by Bliss’ Nail Technician Janet Ulai.

41

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


A Walk On The Line Side...With BLISS’ MIKE INDURSKY encourage Guests to come to the spa. We have a key card called Welcome Delights that talks about the spa services and offers some discounts. All the rooms have a spa menu. When a guest has spare time, the über concierge (W Insider) will help them get tickets to a show and then advise, ‘In the meantime, why don’t you go get yourself a massage.’ It’s a win-win situation.” Guests at the W Hotel have complementary use of Bliss’ steam and sauna facilities. There are also a wide range of male-centric services such as massage and facials as well as a waxing service called He-Wax. “Seventy percent of the W Hotel clientele is male. Therefore, we see more men in our spas located in W Hotels,” he reported. “We drive traffic to the spa with special events,” Mr. Indursky continued. “We recently had a promotion with Bachelorettes. They got manicures and hand massages and followed by having a drink at the hotel’s Whiskey Bar. We had a line around the block waiting to get in.” Jordan Stein, the Retail Boutique Manager at Bliss49 is one of the six employees who were honored for 15 years of service as part of Bliss’ fifteenth birthday celebration. He was plucked out of his job as a Dean & Deluca delivery man to BlissSoHo, when the staff “fell in love with him,” reported Mr. Indursky. “Now, as head of retail here at Bliss49, he has been a driving force. He embodies that Bliss culture of a happy, energetic spirit.” Ms. Catalano maintains that “If you work at Bliss, it’s all about being happy about what you do. At any level of the company, you have to have personality and a commitment to the brand. All other things you can teach, but if you don’t have these qualities, it doesn’t work.” Mr. Indursky agrees, defining the qualities he believes a Bliss employee must have as “positivity, a willingness to embrace change, passion and hard work.”

2:30 P.M. Lord & Taylor

Mr. Indursky with Bliss’ Yicel Rodriguez

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

Ms. Rodriguez, Ms. Szczepanowski and Mr. Bain join Lord & Taylor’s Nicole Grochmal and Jessica DiBenedetto.

Mr. Indursky (2nd r.) with Lord & Taylor’s Rosanna Zekic, Barbara Zinn-Moore and David Clements

“Lord & Taylor is a very good match for Bliss,” affirmed Ms. Catalano. “We are in full distribution of 45 doors. We have Beauty Advisors and a part-time Esthetician who can offer Bliss services at-counter.” “The New York City flagship store is the only door with dedicated counter space,” she added. “In branch stores, we are nicely positioned in high traffic areas with very large étagères.” “Lord & Taylor has been a stellar partner for us,” declared Mr. Indursky. “Our new installation here on the main aisle has exposure on three sides to tell our story.” The Counter Manager, Yicel Rodriguez, is described by Mr. Indursky as a “rock star. When I asked her what we could do better after the counter opened, she gave me a laundry list of suggestions. They were easy to do, not expensive and were put into effect within two weeks.” Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore, Senior Vice President/GMM for Cosmetics and Fragrance, declared, “I couldn’t be more thrilled with Bliss’ location in our Fifth Avenue flagship. It is reflected in the strong business results for the installation.”

42

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


3:30 P.M. BlissSoHo 568 Broadway

Mr. Indursky with Bliss’ Yelena Royzen

“This location, our first and most famous spa, is our flagship,” Mr. Indursky declared. BlissSoHo started as a 4-room space and has expanded now to two floors. “Most of our celebrity Guests come here.” Several Technicians have worked at this Bliss Spa for 15 years, i n c l u d i n g Ye l e n a Royzen, Beata Chyla, Bob Campbell, Yeugenia Babynina and Josianne Zebicoff. “These Technicians along with Jordan

“It’s like a family here,” Ms. Royzen, enthused. “I love what I’m doing. Every day I wake up and believe I have the power to change the world, and I do.” “Yelena really believes that,” Mr. Indursky informs. “In fact, she helped inspire Bliss’ vision of empowerment. Guests who come to a Bliss Spa feel a kinship with their Technicians. They leave feeling recharged, revitalized and empowered to face the day, whatever its challenges.” “Our motto is to enable women to achieve a higher state of happy through our great service and the great friendships between our Technicians and our Guests.”

4:00 P.M. Sephora SoHo 555 Broadway

Sephora’s Amanda Marx with Ms. Szczepanowski

Ms. Royzen and her 15-year Guest Whitney Kneisley with Mr. Indursky

Sephora’s Patricia Lopez and Melinda Falu Allende with Mr. Indursky, Ms. Szczepanowski and Mr. Bain

Mr. Indursky (c.) at a display of Bliss’ products with Bliss’ Ashling Farrell and Vanessa Vero

Stein from Bliss49 will be celebrated at a special dinner,” he disclosed, “We have been filming them and asking what it was like when they first came to Bliss; what were their greatest and their funniest moments.” J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

Mr. Indursky affirmed, “The partnership between Bliss and Sephora is excellent.” He reported that Bliss is one of the premier skincare brands at this Sephora. “We couldn’t be more proud.” “We want the Cast Members to help tell the Bliss story,” he shared. “They are all part of our Friends and Family Program, and we encourage them to have special treatments in our spa services so they can experience them first hand. The more they can experience what Bliss is about in the spa, the better they can tell our story in Sephora.” BF

43

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


Clé de Peau Beauté Eye Color Quad in Antique Gold (208) $80.00, March

FIRST LOOK (continued from page 23) Clarins Gloss Prodige Intense Colour & Shine Lip Gloss $20.00, March

Maybelline New York EYE STUDIO Color Tattoo 24HR Cream Gel Shadow in Tough As Taupe $6.99, January

Iris Apfel for M·A·C Nail Lacquer in Sandpiper $15.00, January

Clinique Almost Lipstick in Tender Honey $15.00, January

keep it fresh Luminous shades and luxurious textures create a radiant glow for an everyday, fresh-faced look.

Estée Lauder Pure Color Five Color EyeShadow Palette in Topaz Mosaic $45.00, January

L’Oréal Paris Magic Smooth Soufflé Blush in Cherubic (Rose) $12.95, January

bareMinerals READY™ Bronzer in The High Dive $24.00, March

CHANEL ROUGE COCO BAUME Hydrating Conditioning Lip Balm $32.50, January

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

44

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


FIRST LOOK CHANEL BLUSH HORIZON DE CHANEL Glowing Blush Harmony $58.00, January

Guerlain Météorites Cruel Gardenia $67.00, January Too Faced Tinted Beauty Balm $32.00, February

Maybelline New York Dream Bouncy Blush™ in Pink Plum $7.99, January

Too Faced Retractable Petite Pouf Powder Brush $17.00, February

daydreamer Hints of whimsy provide a fanciful twist to the latest color options.

Sally Hansen Salon Effects™ Real Nail Polish Strips in Tie-Dye For $9.99, March

Dior Garden Clutch in Milly Garden $75.00, January

Clarins Colour Breeze Face & Blush Powder $35.00, March J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

45

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


FIRST LOOK Maybelline New York Master Precise Liquid Ink Pen Eye Liner $7.99, January

Sally Hansen Diamond Strength庐 No-Chip Nail Color in Black Diamond $4.95, March

Guerlain Noir G Mascara $49.00, January

Iris Apfel for M路A路C Small Eye Shadow in Howzat $15.00, January

the dark side

Dior Vernis in Gris Montaigne #707 $23.00, January

From sharp blacks to slate grays and mysterious jewel-tones, these shades evoke a bewitching beauty.

Too Faced Glamour to Go Palette $22.00, February

Sephora Collection Volume Booster Gloss Serum in Charming Style $15.00, February

Clinique Quickliner for Eyes Intense in Intense Black $15.00, February

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

46

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


Clarins Instant Light Blush in Vitamin Pink $28.00, March

FIRST LOOK

Sally Hansen Smooth and Perfect™ Color + Care in Whisper $5.99, March

Too Faced Exotic Color Intense Eye Shadow Single in Magic Mushroom $18.00, February

Estée Lauder Pure Color Nail Lacquer in Teal Topaz $19.00, January

sweet treat

NYC New York Color City Proof 8HR Lip Gloss in 24/7 Lilac $3.49, March

Urban Decay Super-Saturated High Gloss Lip Color in Lovechild $19.00, February Buxom® True Hue Blush in Luvitate $24.00, February

Candy-colored hues combine to create a bevy of sweet, wearable looks. CHANEL LE VERNIS Nail Colour in June $25.00, January

L’Oréal Paris Infallible Eye Shadow in Perpetual Purple $7.95, January

L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche® Balm in Rose Elixir $7.95, January

BF

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

47

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


MAYBELLINE NEW YORK’S SPRING BEAUTY TRENDS DAY 4: L.A.M.B The Look by Charlotte

Ms. Willer applies Eye Studio Color Plush Silk Eyeshadow to a Model.

(continued from page 25) Fit Me! Blush in Medium Coral: she applied this warm, orange-based shade to the apples of the cheeks for a natural Willer glow. Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched: to achieve a glossy yet natural eye look, she applied this clear lip balm to the eyelids. Eye Studio Color Plush Silk Eyeshadow in Give Me Gold: Slightly enhancing the eye, she used the palette’s gold shade to create a straight, hard line that began at the outer corners of the eyes and extended halfway towards the temples. Volum’ Express The Falsies Waterproof Mascara in Black Volum’ Express The Falsies Black Drama: After applying individual lashes sporadically across Drama Mascara makes the eyes each upper lash line, she added drama to the eyes with this the focal point of the look. high-volume, extra-matte mascara.

“The beauty look at L.A.M.B. is inspired by a trip to India,” Ms. Willer shared. “A dark, dramatically-lined eye is the focal point—a modern take on kohl.” TO GET THE LOOK: Fit Me! Powder: she eliminated shine and created natural coverage with this pressed powder. She swept a second, slightly darker shade under the cheekbones to contour and create definition. The beauty look by Ms. Next, she applied Fit Me! Blush in Willer at the L.A.M.B. show Deep Rose to the apples of the cheeks, creating a soft glow. Eye Studio Master Drama Cream Pencil in Midnight Master: she created an exaggerated winged eye with this richly pigmented liner. She lined the outer half of the lid and the entire lower lash line. She extended the line out toward the edge of the temple and in toward the inner corner of the eye. Eye Studio Color Plush Silk Eyeshadow in Pink Persuasion: To add a slight shimmer, she used a liner brush to apply the dark grey shade over the eyeliner on the outer corner of the eye. Define-A-Brow Eyebrow Pencil in Soft Black: A straight, strong brow framed the eye look. She filled in the area under the arch of the brow—creating a straight, dramatic shape. Volum’ Express The Falsies Black Drama Mascara: she finished the eyes with this extra-matte, extremely-black mascara.

DAY 4: JEN KAO The Look by Charlotte Willer

Ms. Willer applies Maybelline New York’s Color Sensational Lipcolor.

Ms. Willer has created a playful look with sleek eyes as a hard contrast.

“Polished grunge is the inspiration behind the makeup look at Jen Kao,” Ms. Willer said. “The bright lips and flirty lashes give a playful look, while the sleek eyes provide a hard contrast.” TO GET THE LOOK: Fit Me! Foundation: she prepped the skin with this natural coverage foundation. She then dusted Fit Me! Powder across the t-zone Backstage at the Jen Kao show for a fresh, flawless look. J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

Color Sensational Lipcolor in Coral Crush and Are You Red-dy: she combined these two electric shades for a perfectly contoured, perfectly eye-popping pout.

DAY 5: CARLOS MIELE The Look by Gato Zamora

The makeup by Mr. Zamora focuses on the natural beauty of a woman.

Fit Me! Bronzer gives the face depth.

“The inspiration for the makeup look at Carlos Miele comes from a desire to focus on the natural beauty and femininity of a woman,” Mr. Zamora affirmed. “We wanted to create a sophisticated yet simple look for a night out.” TO GET THE LOOK: Fit Me! Concealer: Seamless skin is the key to this look. He prepped skin with Fit Me! Foundation. Next, he dotted concealer onto the middle of the forehead, mid-cheek, brow bone, upper cheekbone and Fashions by Carlos Miele on the into the inner corners of the runway eyes. He blended with his fingers to make skin appear naturally flawless. Fit Me! Bronzer: To contour and give the face depth, he applied this blendable bronzer from the outer forehead to the temple, under the cheekbone and under the jaw line. Eye Studio Color Explosion Luminizing Eyeshadow in Caffeine Rush: he layered the two chocolate brown shades in this highly pigmented palette over the entire eyelid. To ignite light around the eyes, he used the luminizing shade in the inner corners. Volum’ Express One-by-One Mascara in Blackest Black: he finished the look by applying one coat of this clean volume mascara. Color Sensational High Shine Lipcolor in Nude Glow: he added natural color for a glamorous shine to the lips with this sumptuous lipstick. (Continued on page 55)

48

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


on the avenue

(continued from page 26)

Johnson & Johnson Group of Consumer Companies, Inc., L’Oréal USA, P&G Beauty & Grooming and Shiseido Cosmetics America and paid special tribute to Evelyn Lauder for the tremendous strides she made toward breast cancer research and awareness.

Firmenich’s Roberto Olivi and Jerry Vittoria (r.) with High Ridge Brands’ Nina Riley

Ms. Drosos and P&G’s Esi Eggleston Bracey (2nd r.) with Pat McGrath and Allure’s Linda Wells

Ms. Zinn-Moore with William Lauder Johnson & Johnson’s Susan Sweet and Jeff Smith of The Estée Lauder Companies

Shiseido’s Takafumi Oba, Ed Houlihan, Takeshi Yoshida and Tom Halligan

Avon’s Julie Tatarczuk and Denise McEvoy (2nd r.) with Givaudan’s Cosimo Policastro and Rose Eckert

Givaudan’s Nilda Medero and Alison Chaneski with Trudi Loren of The Estée Lauder Companies

Ms. Loren (2nd l.) with Firmenich’s Joy Atkinson, Cheryl Morano and Ms. Buzantian

Custom Essence’s Fred Rakity, Cover FX’s Chelsi Oestreich and Sharon Collier (r.) with Beauty Fashion’s George Ledes

Jacqueline Singer with Fragrance Resources’ Cutler Whitman and Joan Marrinan

L’Oréal USA’s Kelly Thompson and Mr. Morris with Elana Drell Szyfer Carol Hamilton of Ahava

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

Mr. Maubert with Elizabeth Mankin of CHANEL

49

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N

EC Scott Group’s Mark Scott with The Musmanno Group’s Elizabeth Musmanno and Chris Buccellato of Custom Essence


on the avenue November 3, audience members were given a history of fragrance from osmocurator Christophe Laudamiel and a chance to smell scents in their original formulations—provided by the Osmothèque archives in Versailles. The “Speed Smelling” event on November 16 allowed attendees to briefly engage with Perfumers from IFF to discuss the inspiration behind scents created specifically for the occasion. Coverage of the “Le Parfum: The Power of Fragrance” panel on November 10 with W’s Jane Larkworthy can be found in Beauty Fashion’s December 2011 issue.

LVMH’s Jean-Marc Plisson, Linda Maiocco and Jim Anderson

Women Of Worth

Oscar de la Renta’s Michelle de Coty’s Ruth Sutcliffe with Bourbon and Jean Hoehn Zimmerman Mark Hardy of Orlandi

L’Oréal Paris’ Karen Fondu (c.) with L’Oréal’s Women of Worth

Batallure Beauty’s Sam Ghusson with Noreen Dodge of Give Back Brands

Ann Gottlieb Associates’ Ann Gottlieb with Daniel Kaner of Oribe

IFF And FIAF Host Scent Events

Christophe Laudamiel

International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), in partnership with French Institute Alliance Française (FIAF), held a series of fragrance workshops throughout November in Manhattan. During “A Scent of History” on

Perfumers from IFF participated in a speed smelling event at FIAF.

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

L’Oréal Paris’ Nathalie Kristo and Ms. Fondu (3rd l.) with Hearst Magazines’ Michael Clinton (3rd r.) and L’Oréal Paris Spokespeople Aimee Mullins, Andie MacDowell and Julianna Margulies

Inspired by its iconic brand philosophy, “Because You’re Worth It,” L’Oréal Paris began its Women of Worth initiative six years ago. Each year, the Women of Worth program honors those who embody the spirit of the L’Oréal Paris brand through their commitment to their communities, their selflessness and their drive to make a difference in the world. This year’s L’Oréal Women of Worth Awards were held on December 8 at New York City’s Hearst Tower. The honorees of the Women of Worth initiative are: Ann Solorio Brownell, Founder of The Amanda Network; Cora White, Board President of Foster Care Children and Family Fund; Dr. Barbara Summey Marshall, Volunteer CEO at Steps & Stages Women Veterans Resource Agency, Inc.; Gina Keatley, CEO and Director of Nutrition at

50

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


on the avenue ACRIA Honors Demsey

Nourishing NYC/USA; Gretchen Holt Witt, Founder of Cookies for Kids’ Cancer; Pilar Pinel, Founder of Embracing Latina Leadership Alliances; Shanta Barton Stubbs, Founder of the New Image Youth Center; Sheila Warnock, Founder and President of ShareTheCaregiving Inc.; Stephanie M. Clark, Founder and National Director for Project Single Moms Worldwide Inc. and Susan Munsey, Executive Director and “House Mom” of Generate Hope.

Donna Karan, The Estée Lauder Companies’ John Demsey with Annelise Peterson

“Innovation In A New Economy”

Mr. Demsey, Ms. Karan and Prabal Gurung

Francis Cholle (r.) with Firmenich’s Jerry Vittoria, FIT’s Stephan Kanlian, Google’s Kevin Kells, Luxury Marketing Council’s Greg Furman and DJB Ventures’ Deborah Burns

Mr. Kanlian with Annette Green

FIT’s Master Program, Firmenich and The Luxury Marketing Council presented a forum on “The Intuitive Compass: Why the Best Decisions Balance Reason and Instinct” followed by a panel discussion on “Innovation in a New Economy.”

FIT’s Virginia Bonofiglio, Bam Navigation’s Brian McGee and Sawyer Design Vision’s Michele Sawyer

Ms. Karan, Mr. Demsey and M·A·C’s Nancy Mahon

The AIDS Community Research Initiative of America (ACRIA) recognized The Estée Lauder Companies’ Group President John Demsey for his dedication and commitment to the fight against AIDS through the M·A·C AIDS Fund at a benefit held at Manhattan’s Urban Zen Center at the Stephan Weiss Studio on December 7. Over $400,000 was raised to fund ACRIA’s work.

GIRL’S NITE OUT

Francis Cholle, International Business Consultant, discussed how businesses can tap intuitive intelligence to redefine and reinvent the customer experience and get the most from their teams in the process. His presentation was complemented by a panel discussion with Deborah Burns, President of DJB Ventures; Kevin Kells, National CPG Industry Director at Google and Jerry Vittoria, President of Firmenich Fine Fragrance North America. The panel was moderated by Stephan Kanlian, Chairperson of FIT’s Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing & Management program.

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

Elizabeth Arden’s Laurie Dowley, The Estée Lauder Companies’ Nancy McKay and Karyn Khoury are the Founders of Girl’s Nite Out.

Beauty industry executives gathered together on November 14 for their fifth annual Girl’s Nite Out, which benefited the Jane Scott Scholarship Fund at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). This year’s party, which was

51

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


on the avenue Laurice Rahmé At Saks

held at the home of Estée Lauder and Tom Ford Beauty’s Senior Vice President/General Manager Nancy McKay, raised a new high of $13,125 for the scholarship fund.

Bond No. 9’s Laurice Rahmé (r.) with Bond No. 9 Hall of Famer Michael Devine

Ms. Khoury, Ms. Dowley and Ms. McKay (2nd r.) join FIT scholarship recipients Briana Dandrea and Kylie Cumbo with FIT’s Dawn Duncan. Saks Fifth Avenue’s Lee Williams with Ms. Rahmé

Dior Beauty’s Terry Darland with Ms. McKay

Dior Beauty’s Lisa Hawkins with Macy’s Regina Vespaziani Ms. Rahmé (c.) answers customers’ questions about her fragrances.

Elizabeth Arden’s Francine Gingras and Camille Candelino

The Estée Lauder Companies’ Carol Russo and Jane Hudis

Ms. Rahmé (c.) with Bond No. 9’s Alberto Caballero and Juan Mercado

Michelle Israel, PZ Cussons Beauty’s Maggie Ciafardini and CHANEL’s Joyce Green

Dawn Duncan, Vice President of Development and Alumnae Relations at FIT shared that the scholarship fund is “a living tribute to Jane Scott.” Ms. Scott, Vice President/DMM at Bloomingdale’s, was killed in a bicycling accident 11 years ago.

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

On December 17, holiday shoppers at New York City’s flagship Saks Fifth Avenue store chatted with Bond No. 9’s President and Founder, Laurice Rahmé about her fragrance collection including the newest scent, New York Amber. Ms. Rahmé signed bottles of Bond No. 9 fragrances purchased by customers. BF

52

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


Insights From L’ORÉAL USA At CEW’s Women In Beauty Series Event (continued from page 30)

Self’s Ellen Cummings, Laura McEwen and Anita Maiella

L’Oréal USA’s Carol Hamilton and Frédérick Rozé with Barbara Zinn-Moore of Lord & Taylor

Ralph Lauren Fragrances’ Jerome Roux with Givaudan’s Yara Karmiloff and Frederic Pignault

L’Oréal’s Thomas Reedman and David Suffit with Givaudan’s Cosimo Policastro

Hispanic areas offered customers makeovers inspired by popular telenovela stars. “It’s all about the experience for the customer,” said Ms. Kristo. “We were able to create the feeling of a luxury experience in the mass channel.” Along with remarkable in-store service, connecting with consumers in the digital sphere in meaningful ways is crucial for beauty brands of today. In addition to a strong presence on Twitter and Facebook, Lancôme collaborated with the online fashion community, Polyvore, to host the month-long “Style with Lancôme Color Design Palettes” contest this past summer. Lancôme challenged Polyvore users to create fashion- and beauty-focused virtual collages featuring the newly-launched palette—for a chance to win a trip to New York City. The contest achieved twice the amount of activity than any other previous promotion the Web site held. “Today’s consumer is in-store and online, and we need to provide her with an experience wherever she goes,” said Ms. Galfo. “We need to build on the relationship to make her feel valuable and unique.” As companies are implementing creative approaches to reach consumers, a Lancôme’s Genevieve Santos and brand’s core identity should remain at the forefront. “L’Oréal Paris’ slogan, Andrew Armstrong ‘Because You’re Worth It,’ is at center of our brand and it appeals and connects with women everywhere. Even though the brand might look different in other countries and may address different needs, the message of the brand is global,” stated Ms. Kristo. “We celebrate the global heritage of our brand, while keeping it close to American women’s hearts.” BF

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

53

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


THE FRAGRANCE FOUNDATION HOSTS A CONVERSATION ON CELEBRITY SCENTS (continued from page 28)

Givaudan’s Rose Eckert and Kate Greene (r.) with Ms. Bloom and Coty’s Marsha Brooks

Lord & Taylor’s Marti Moore and Barbara Zinn-Moore

Ms. Schmidt with Ms. Darland and Parfums Christian Dior’s Lisa Hawkins

Fusion Brands’ Dana Kline with Rick Brown of Macy’s

Selecting the right celebrity to partner with on a f ra g ra n c e l a u n ch i s e s p e c i a l l y i m p o r t a n t f o r companies. “We do quantitative and qualitative research when choosing which celebrities to work with,” said Mr. Rolleston. “When we chose to collaborate with Taylor Swift, we looked at her fan base, which extends to over 20 million people on Facebook, and the relationship she has with her audience. Her fans are extremely loyal to her, and we saw that she really is the voice of her generation.” This loyalty lends itself to a built-in customer base for Ms. Swift’s signature scent. Celebrity-endorsed fragrances also pack a punch at retail. For the better part of the decade, there has been a serious decline in fragrance sales, yet Ms. Darland affirmed that sales for Dior J’adore have strengthened year over year. She attributed this growth to Dior J’adore’s Spokeswoman, Charlize Theron. “When we brought Charlize on in 2005, we saw an immediate spike in sales—she has been our golden girl. We are almost back to the height of the business [Dior J’adore was a $40 million business in the US when it launched in 1999, but declined to a low of $22 million prior to Ms. Theron representing the brand.], coming in around $35 million in sales this year.” She also referred to Actress Natalie Portman being introduced as the new face of Miss Dior last year like “winning the lottery,” with her blockbuster J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

VPack’s Marc-Andre Houx and Givaudan’s Frederic Pignault

Allure’s Doug Zimmerman and Jennifer Friedman Perez (2nd r.) with Coty’s Rachel Tydings and Kelley McAuliffe

54

IFF’s Rachel Weinhausen, Christine Hassan and Matt Frost

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


MAYBELLINE NEW YORK’S SPRING BEAUTY TRENDS (continued from page 48)

DAY 6: BIBHU MOHAPATRA The Look by Charlotte Willer

Arcade Marketing’s Diane Crecca and Larry Berman (2nd r.) with Elizabeth Arden’s Art Spiro and Lauren Bitet of Givaudan

Define-A-Brow Eyebrow Pencil creates a well-groomed brow.

Volum’ Express Falsies Flared Mascara

“The makeup look at Bibhu Mohapatra was inspired by the women in fashion Photographer Helmut Newton’s iconic photographs,” Ms. Willer declared. “Instead of doing the classic bold eyes and lips, we made everything a bit more natural. The look is very glamorous and the perfect complement to the chic pieces in Bibhu’s spring collection.”

O, The Oprah Magazine’s Patricia Foster and Jill Seelig (r.) with Ms. Hawkins

film, Black Swan; pregnancy announcement as well as her Golden Globe and Academy Award wins occurring almost simultaneously. “Timing is everything.” From the retailer’s perspective, Ms. Levy agreed that the right timing adds to the success of a launch, recognizing that Beyoncé Knowles’ PA for the launch of Beyoncé Pulse in September came on the heels of her own pregnancy news, but she also maintained that a real success stems from a celebrity’s authenticity and involvement—both attributes Ms. Knowles demonstrates. “We look for celebrities that are committed. It’s not just about how many Facebook fans a celebrity has or how much they’re willing to tweet,” stated Ms. Levy. “It’s also not just what they’re going to do at the time of the launch, but what they’re going to do to sustain that brand a year or two afterward. We don’t want ‘a hit and run.’” With the velocity that celebrity fragrances have been taking off, Mr. Spilka foresees a new system of operating in the near future. “There will be an evolution with the structure of deals—from traditional royalties to equity to self-financing,” he noted. “We also expect to see more retailer exclusives, like with SOMEDAY by Justin Bieber at Macy’s and My Life® Mary J. Blige on HSN. Mary broke a lot of rules and proved to us that a fragrance can be successful without the consumer necessarily smelling it first. It’s good to have a little rule-breaking; it keeps the consumer excited and leads to tremendous vitality going forward.” BF J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

TO GET THE LOOK: Fit Me! Foundation: she prepped the skin with this natural coverage foundation to create a smooth, flawless canvas. She then worked Fit Me! Bronzer in Medium Bronze onto cheekbones for a touch of color. Next, she dusted Fit A beauty runway look from the Bibhu Mohapatra show Me! Powder over the skin to created by Ms. Willer eliminate shine. Eye Studio Color Explosion Luminizing Eyeshadow in Caffeine Rush: she created a smoky eye using the three deepest brown shades from this rich palette of neutrals. She blended the shadows over the lid and out past the outer corners of the eyes. The result was a softer, more flattering alternative to the dark, smoky inspiration. Volum’ Express Falsies Flared Mascara in Very Black: she lifted and winged lashes out with this dramatic, volumizing mascara. Define-A-Brow Eyebrow Pencil: Brows were filled in and sculpted with this defining brow pencil. “A wellgroomed brow is very important to this look,” she noted. Shine Sensational Lip Gloss in Cherry Kiss: she created a toned-down version of Helmut Newton’s signature red lip using this punchy, translucent gloss. BF

55

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


MAKING SALES

NOTES FROM PARIS (continued from page 37)

(continued from page 33)

are also 12 editions of the fragrances available in handmade, 20.5 inch pewter “Amphorae Reliquiae” by l’Orfèvrerie d’Anjou. They are each priced at $3,900. First presented in September 2011 at L’Hôtel La Maison near the Champs Elysées, which was recently renovated and decorated by Martin Margiela, the Imaginary Liquids are currently available exclusively at the boutique L’Eclaireur on rue Mahler in the Marais district of Paris.

EmyLou Rodriguez Amway Independent Business Owner New York City, New York EmyLou Rodriguez was introduced to the ARTISTRY skincare and cosmetics line eight years ago when she needed quality products to use on her sensitive skin. ARTISTRY products made such a difference to her complexion that EmyLou decided to start her own ARTISTRY business. “I was so excited about the results I achieved by using ARTISTRY and wanted to share the benefits of the products with others,” commented EmyLou. Her business has grown over the years because of her passion for helping others achieve both inner and outer beauty. As a freelance Makeup Artist and skincare educator, she’s been able to use ARTISTRY products to uplift and change people’s lives, whether it’s by boosting a working mom’s confidence through the addition of simple color to her beauty routine, or helping a bride achieve clearer skin in preparation for her special day. In addition to extensive training, education and customer service, EmyLou believes in building excellent relationships in order to effectively share ARTISTRY products with others. “ARTISTRY represents the true science and nature of beauty. Knowing that ARTISTRY’s product integrity is backed up by leading research in skincare science, and that the brand’s philosophy embraces everyone’s individual beauty makes one proud to be affiliated with the brand,” EmyLou shared. She is known to create customized solutions for her clientele and bundle value-added services, such as a skin analysis or a mini-makeover, to better connect with the individuals she is serving. “No matter the setting, the most successful sale comes when a potential customer feels like she’s been heard, experiences the products, recognizes the integrity of ARTISTRY Consultants and concludes that we can offer something of value.” BF

2011 Clarins Most Dynamic Woman Annual Award

Clarins’ Melissa Barrett Rhodes and Dominique Rist (r.) with Jenna CourtinClarins

Ms. Rhodes with Arthritis Foundation Courtin’s Lionel Comole and Clarins’ Philip Shearer

Clarins’ Christian Courtin-Clarins (3rd l.) and Opera Singer Malika Bellaribi (2nd l.) with the Clarins Most Dynamic Woman Award winners from previous years

Clarins, in partnership with Marie Claire and Teva television, honored world-renowned Opera Singer Malika Bellaribi with the 2011 Clarins Most Dynamic Woman Award in Paris for her charitable work with underprivileged children in poor French and European neighborhoods. BF

BEAUTY FASHION (ISSN00057487) is published monthly by Beauty Fashion 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A. (212) 840-8800. Fax: (212) 840-7246. Subscription: Domestic $25.00 a year. Foreign: Canada and Mexico $50.00: Air Mail-Europe and all other countries $175.00. Single copy price: $5.00 except directory issues which are $10.00. Periodical postage paid at New York and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address change to Beauty Fashion 16 East 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A PUBLISHER CONFIDENTIALITY POLICY The subscription lists of this publication are maintained on a confidential basis. Beauty Fashion has never marketed, sold or otherwise distributed, its subscription lists for any commercial or other purpose.

J A N U A RY 2 0 1 2 /

56

/ B E A U T Y FA S H I O N


NOW PATENTED UNTIL 20291

Youth is in your genes. Reactivate it. See visibly younger skin in just 7 days.

2

GÉNIFIQUE

YOUTH ACTIVATING CONCENTRATE

At the very origin of your skin’s youth: your genes. Genes produce specific proteins. With age, their presence diminishes. Now, boost genes’ activity3 and stimulate the production of youth proteins.4 Discover the skin you were born to have. Breathtakingly beautiful, skin looks as if lit from within. Its youthful quality returns: cushiony soft, astonishingly even, dramatically refined. Learn more at lancome.com 1 European patent pending. 2Activate skin’s youthful look. 3In-vitro test on genes. 4Clinical study on skin proteins, associated with young skin – France.


Beauty Fashion January 2012