Page 1

The Source

VOL

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VOL

/ CUT

Dark Study - Le

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Le COLOR 14

2 / CUT

Light Study - Le

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Le COLOR 26


be

LU TE NS

In fo ter na di re: re th tio ct e na or fa l A ,p n ho tas rtist IN to tic ic LU gr al Di ap ly re ot TEN he be cto he S’ r, a au rs W r m wo O nd tifu Da as rld RL m Sh l, u t D i pu erp ly… … ise tte en C r nc iec Lo Dr id l ea o y u arn tu e n C ni at … g, m re qu ey e Pl sle y a at m th ay n In iv e w nd e fu de use sp e gl D orld Sue ir ac l ac r b s h ire el ed o a ia ce d eg ct of Pe ve by i l e or le m an pe nt s a , S g be s an c Lu i , n rfe in so er en te d e s r ge d rton ct th ea t c a n a o i fo ol nd s’ on e m f h Lu ry an r v or f l h o e … t Fr av e r s iv ing ma arm g ns en e t A m sb u id d . p l ch ak o s a o l co rin ca n a ta f io te co ck r, po ha en c l p o us W ip r l c o o r . irs Th w c le ith f c rfu on hi el ty e ju s lis Ar oo l p to ai w m xt th sha t, a n s r i th y, l, d op t i at rp po m t of b n a C e ak H s e t ar , g s r o a a it tis ta of w eu ea u e tic rne ion or e tr rap ch m le ty p lth th es hi y in ed ak ga th ar y ge an of co y h Lu ca a tis Ha ti am eu nt lle om te l lin nu d ligh t, p, sh s n n P c pe ir to u e i ty in ap ei em t a fo tio ag s, s s e t L a rfu th to rt m ric e the n he n o e to e G nd m e cr be d en a s r rE fa t r b e bo e r e d t e a t m a o L o se at cr is s l n ark l a od rtis ute ph ld t m e ne c er ea de a co , s b e er tica ns iqu , co n ve s, to st p li o st ’ n e n ro mb ft r, r-c an ng no sa lly d wo m tra fa lac ng in an ha d no r W rk an st lo a e sh e , li in r n ng sky te est io it ne d c d h cl ing and ag g s h n e s i c e ie n l a o c a l r a de as g. ra n n, rd rf nt oo a s t olo s s b ra ic , pi a ks w o . sig ev r ex m ng m ut pe ea be pa c ne er g ew ut tre us sim bo let rfe ra h r, at ica p or tin m ar one ct ble th tes l g e s, y k t l

o

ic

Jo

SE RG E


Le

Le CUTS

COLORS

Taking visual cues from the strong lines and balanced

Inspired by Lutens’ bold, innovative use of color and

proportions of Lutens’ defining vision for Shiseido throughout

graphical shapes, Vero K-PAK Color International Artistic

the 1980s and 1990s, Joico International Artistic Director

Director Sue Pemberton combined various levels and

Damien Carney crafted a collection of four face-framing

intensities of Vero K-PAK Color shades in primary and

haircuts designed to create the illusion of a perfectly oval

secondary hues and placed them against contrasting

face while adding edge to the facial features.

base colors.

These cuts were executed in concert with the color to

For Vol. 2, shades of blonde, lavender, and blue—Lutens’

enhance both the fluid movement and sharp contrasts of

signature cool palette—were set against a blonde base

Pemberton’s color techniques depending on how the hair

with softer, more pastel highlights and against a brunette

is styled.

base with more vivid highlights to expose a glacial

LeCUT

interpretation of the color technique. Carney’s combined J-Cutting’s principal concepts in an unexpected and sometimes disconnected fashion, echoing

Pemberton expertly adapted J-Color’s Diagonal Foil

Lutens’ visions of organized chaos. The result is cuts that are at

Placement technique, allowing each look to take on a

once elegant, bold, and timeless.

completely unique personality.

To unearth the versatility of his designs,Carney relied on Joico’s Design Collection, an innovative collection of layerable,

Dark Study

workable styling formulas that allow stylists to sculpt hair into wearable art.

8


01

02

03

04

05

06

08

01-02

03

04

05

06

Section hair as shown: approximately temple to temple. The sectioning at the crown area is slightly asymmetrical and is determined by the crown and growth pattern. Always work with the natural growth pattern.

Starting at the crown area, take a vertical parting from crown to nape. Cut hair to create a tight, close head shape.

Angle the fingers close to the nape, cutting into the palm of the hand for greatest control.

Continue taking partings from crown to nape and pivoting around the head. The guideline is a traveling one; do not overdirect.

Continuation of nape area. Remember to move around the head. Tilt the head slightly to allow for easier access to the nape area.

15

16

18

17

19

07

09

10

11

12

13

09-10

11

Continue to pivot as before, working toward the front, side, and temple areas. Always cross-check in the opposite direction of the original technique; refine as necessary.

View of completed side and back areas. Allow the hair to dry naturally. Assess the overall shape.

07-08

12-13 Repeat the process on the opposite side. Return to the first guideline and pivot around the head. Note the guideline is a traveling one.

21

15

16-17

18-19

20

21

Proceed to the top area. Note the top area will connect to the crown but not the side areas. Use the natural growth pattern at the crown to determine the sectioning pattern. Take partings and pivot from and off the crown following and using the guideline to connect this area. Note the partings are overdirected and slightly elevated to build weight and maintain length through the top area.

Proceed to pivot and work through the top area as shown. Note the overdirection and slight elevation of each parting. The partings also incorporate the side areas. The side areas can be overdirected as necessary to remove or maintain length/ weight. Note: the models hair was already short at the sides, so the sides were overdirected to maintain maximum length in this area.

Proceed to the opposite side. Return to original guideline at the crown. Progressively pivot from the crown and overdirect at the same time. Overdirect each parting to the first guideline to maintain maximum length at the side area. Note the weight distribution is slightly different on both sides. There is a shift in the weight distribution; it is not symmetrical. Always adjust the angles and weight distribution to suit the hair texture, density, and overall look. Allow hair to air dry.

Return to the opposite side and refine the hairline using scissor-over-comb. The objective is to create a fitted nape area around the hairline. Use the wide end of the cutting comb to allow hair to pass through easily and maintain a slightly longer length.

Tilt the head forward to cut in the nape area. Keep the head upright to blend the internal lengths around the occipital bone. The objective it to taper the hairline and create a close, fitted shape. The hairline is the shortest point, working to slightly longer internal lengths.

24

22

23

22-23 Refine the temple area by overdirecting the hair slightly forward. Using the cutting comb to control, chip into the hair to create a fitted temple area. Optional: refine the outline around the ear area by pointing a strong, angular line.

25

24

25-26

Repeat the process on the opposite side. Blow-dry remaining hair at the top with a Deman brush using the wrapping technique. Optional: blow-dry hair with hands for more texture.

Establish the fringe. Determine fringe length, shape, and finish based on the hair texture, face shape, overall look. Allow the hair to fall naturally and cut a heavy line. Note the fringe is not symmetrical: one side is longer than the other. The hair can be styled to accentuate and highlight the various lengths throughout the haircut.

14 View of cross-checking. For ultimate control and balance of the overall shape, be sure to cross-check at every stage of the haircut.

View of parting and pivoting around the head.

20

14

26

The hair is now ready for the color technique. To ensure haircut and haircolor complement one another, refine haircut after color process is complete.


PHASE 1

Lightening

LIGHTENING FORMULA:

01

02

03

04

04 cont.

VeroLight Powder Lightener with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide.

COLOR FORMULAS: Formula 1: Vero K-PAK Chrome ¾ G9 + ¼ Really Yellow with Vero K-PAK Chrome Activator (yellow foil) Formula 2: Vero K-PAK Color ¼ 4FV + ¾ CCV with 10 volume (3%) Veroxide (purple foil)

BEFORE

01

02

03

04

Ceren has natural, Level 5, medium brown hair.

Starting at the crown, take a diagonal slice parting of hair and clip it away. Take a diagonal slice parting and apply Lightening Formula 1 /8 – inch from the scalp area through the midshaft to the ends.

Directly underneath, take a second diagonal slice parting and apply Lightening Formula. Continue working in the same manner for approximately six back-toback slice partings.

Proceed to the opposite side. Working from the crown, take a diagonal slice parting and clip it away. Take a diagonal slice parting and apply Lightening Formula. Continue working in the same manner for approximately eight backto-back slice partings.

Completed foiling procedure for Phase 1. Lift to a Level 9 light blonde, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK DeepPenetrating Reconstructor for 5 minutes, rinse, then dry the hair. Proceed to Phase 2.

Formula 3: Vero K-PAK Chrome ½ Really Blue + ½ Clear with Vero K-PAK Chrome Activator (blue foil) Base Color: Vero K-PAK Chrome B5 with Vero K-PAK Chrome Activator

LeCOLOR

PHASE 2 05

Dark Study

13

14

ColorTechnique 06

07

08

09

05

06

07

08

09

Starting at the crown, take a diagonal slice parting and clip it away. Take a diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 1 a 1 /8 –inch from the scalp area through the midshaft to the ends.

Directly underneath, take a second diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 1. Take a third diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 2.

Take a fourth diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 2. Take four additional diagonal slice partings and apply Formula #3.

Proceed to the opposite side. Take a diagonal slice parting and clip it away. Take approximately two back-to-back diagonal slice partings and apply Formula 1. Directly underneath, take two back-to-back diagonal slice partings and apply Formula 2. Take two back-to-back diagonal slice partings and apply Formula 3.

Completed foiling procedure. Apply Base Color to all un-foiled hair, process color accordingly, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Intense Hydrator for 5 minutes, then rinse. Dry hair and style with the appropriate Joico styling products.

09 cont.


LeGRAPHIQUE

LeCUT Light Study

17

20


01

02

01-03

03

View of sectioning pattern. Hair is sectioned into five areas, which will be cut at different lengths and angles to create a contrast of varying lengths throughout the haircut.

17

16

16 Work through the fringe and top area. Take a parting that extends from the crown to the temple area; cut to desired length.

17-19 View of parting pattern. Partings pivoting off the crown and are overdirected to the first guideline. Dry the hair smooth with a Denman brush. This will help to visually evaluate the overall lengths. The hair will be refined dry.

04

05

06

07

09

04

05

06

07

Start working in this zone first. Note: do not undo the nape area sectioning; this will be cut and connected at a later stage when the hair is dry. Each sectioned area should remain separate while cutting for greatest control. Take a vertical parting from the crown area to approximately below the occipital bone; cut to desired length using a rounded layer technique.

Elevate hair as shown. The first guideline establishes the length for this area. The hair can be cut shorter through the crown area and extend to any length. The hair can be cut evenly all over the head. The silhouette and shapes are endless. Choose a length that complements the other lengths throughout the haircut.

Pivot from the first guideline. Work around the head shape using a traveling guideline.

Continue as before. Pivot around the head shape. Do not overdirect.

18

19

08-09 View of last remaining partings. The objective is to create a rounded, layered look sitting on top of longer lengths underneath: a shape within a shape.

20

20 Establish a finish and length in the fringe areas. A curved fringe is utilized to open and expose one side of the face.

08

21

22

Tilt the head slightly forward to control the line through the comb.

To further define the face shape, cut an angular line around the cheekbone area using the chipping technique. The line is strong yet retains softness on the edges of the hair.

24

23-24 Optional: loosely connect the longer lengths underneath to the shorter areas of the haircut. Leaving these areas disconnected creates a stronger look and feel to the overall shape.

11

12

10 Return to the first guideline and proceed to cut the opposite side. Note that the partings will pivot as before, except that the partings will be overdirected to the first guideline to create longer lengths and throw the shape off balance (asymmetrical). Be sensitive to all the various lengths and areas within the haircut: some areas will be flatter and other areas, where the hair is longer, will be fuller and rounder.

23

22

21

10

25

13

15

14

13-14

15

View of last remaining partings. When overdirecting, elevate the partings as necessary to remove any unnecessary weight.

View of cross-check. Note that the crown is slightly shorter. Also note the external softness and length: this is excellent for blending and softening areas that disconnect. Be sensitive to balance and proportion.

11-12 View of the overdirection. Building longer lengths internally.

26

27

25-26

27-28

Employ the same technique by pivoting around the head. To build or maintain length, overdirect. Visually check the shape so there is a sense of balance between the areas that have been cut technically and the areas that have been cut freehand.

Cut into hair freehand: remove large pieces of hair to create a chunky, haphazard effect. This adds further texture and dimension to the haircut.

28

The hair is now ready for the color technique. To ensure haircut and haircolor complement one another, refine haircut after color process is complete.


PHASE 1

Lightening

LIGHTENING FORMULA:

01

02

03

04

05

06

07

cont.

VeroLight Powder Lightener with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide.

COLOR FORMULAS: Formula 1: Vero K-PAK Color HLN with double 40 Volume (12%) Veroxide (yellow foil) Formula 2: Vero K-PAK Color ½ TSB + ½ CCV with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide (silver foil)

01

02

03

04

05

06

07

Nicole has natural, Level 7, dark blonde hair.

Starting at the crown working toward the fringe area, take out a zigzag weave parting of hair and clip it away. Take a diagonal weave parting, picking up the points of the zigzag parting working toward the fringe area, and apply Lightening Formula 1/8-inch from the scalp through the midshaft to the ends.

Directly underneath, take a diagonal slice parting and apply Lightening Formula. Continue working in the same manner for a total of approximately six back-toback slice partings.

Proceed to the opposite side. Starting at the crown working toward the fringe area, take a zigzag weave parting and clip it away. Directly below, pick up the points of the weave in a diagonal parting and apply Lightening Formula.

Directly underneath, take a diagonal slice parting and apply Lightening Formula. Continue working in the same manner for a total of five diagonal back-to-back slice partings.

Proceed to the area behind the ear. Take a verticaldiagonal slice parting and apply Lightening Formula. Continue taking verticaldiagonal back-to-back slice partings for a total of three slice partings. Proceed to the back, nape area. Take four horizontaldiagonal slice partings and apply Lightening Formula.

Proceed to the opposite side area in front of the ear area. Take three verticaldiagonal back-to-back slice partings. Leave a slice parting of natural hair (approximately 1-inch wide), continue working to slightly behind the ear area and take two verticaldiagonal back-to-back slice partings. Proceed to the back area. Working horizontally-diagonally, take three back-to-back slice partings and apply Lightening Formula.

Completed foiling procedure for Phase 1. Lift to a Level 9 light blonde, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Deep-Penetrating Reconstructor for 5 minutes, rinse, then dry the hair. Proceed to Phase 2.

Formula 3: Vero K-PAK Color ¼ INV + ¾ TPB with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide (purple foil) Formula 4: Vero K-PAK Color ¼ INB + ¾ TSB with 10 Volume (3%) Veroxide (blue foil) Base Color: Vero K-PAK Chrome B7 with Vero K-PAK Chrome Activator

LeCOLOR

08

Light Study

25

26

cont.

BEFORE

PHASE 2

ColorTechnique

08 Starting at the crown and working toward the fringe area, take out a slice parting of natural hair and clip it away. Leave approximately five slice partings of natural hair that will be placed in foil with Formula 1. Take a diagonal slice parting-picking up the natural hair and not the lightened hair—and apply Formula 1. Continue to pick up four additional back-to-back slice partings—picking up the natural hair—and apply Formula 1. Directly underneath, take a diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 2.

09

10

11

10

11

Proceed to the opposite top side. Working from the crown area, take a slice parting of natural hair and clip it away. Leave approximately two slice partings of natural hair that will be placed in foil with Formula 1. Directly underneath, take two diagonal slice partings and apply Formula 2. Take one diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 3 . Take two diagonal slice partings and apply Formula 4.

Proceed to the right side. Take four back-to-back vertical-diagonal slice partings—picking up the natural hair color—and apply Formula 1. Take one slice parting with Formula 2 , one slice parting with Formula 3, one slice parting with Formula 4, and two slice partings with Formula 2.

09 Take two additional slice partings and apply Formula 2. Take one diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 3. Take one diagonal slice parting and apply Formula 4.

12

12 Proceed to the left side and bend the top foils out of the way. Take two vertical-diagonal back-toback slice partings and apply Formula 1, two slice partings with Formula 2, one slice parting with Formula 3, one slice parting with Formula 2, one slice parting with Formula 1, one slice parting with Formula 2, one slice parting with Formula 3, one slice parting with Formula 4, one slice parting with Formula 2, one slice parting with Formula 3, and one slice parting with Formula 4.

13

13 Completed foiling procedure. Apply Base Color to all un-foiled hair, process color accordingly, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Shampoo, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Cuticle Sealer for 5 minutes, then rinse. Apply K-PAK Intense Hydrator for 5 minutes, then rinse. Dry hair and style with the appropriate Joico styling products.


LeGRAPHIQUE

29


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Joico速Laboratories, Los Angeles, CA 90042-0308 800.44.JOICO Printed in U.S.A. HAIR Damien Carney COLOR Sue Pemberton PHOTO Hama Sanders J64520


Le Graphique Vol. 2  

Joico Le Graphique Volumen 2

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