FEATURED WINE ‘Lapis’ Furmint’ 2009 Zoltán Demeter, Tokaj- Hegyalja When the wall came down, Zoltán Demeter was a Hungarian student, dreaming of a future as a winemaker. Before 1989, that future in Hungary would have involved working for one of the huge state-run winemaking companies whose primary mission was supplying the Soviet Union with wine, and lots of it. But after 1989? Well, that was anyone's guess. So Demeter, like so many others of his generation, designed his own future on the blank slate of a new nation. Demeter completed his college studies in Budapest and then decided he needed an international education in winemaking, something that had been inconceivable just a few years before. He traveled first to Virginia, where he says most of his time was spent learning English, and preparing for a six month stint at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars in Napa. From there, with rapidly improving English, and an ever deepening understanding of wine, Demeter got serious and went to Beaune to study Viticulture and Enology, and then went on to Brighton in the U.K. where he studied wine marketing. When he returned to Hungary in 1993, he was 27 years old, and with all the fire you'd expect in the belly of a young man at the time, he set about helping to remake an industry that for all intents and purposes had been completely destroyed by fifty years of Communist rule. “We had to figure out the direction of the wine, and what quality was moving forward. It was a beginning for our region. Even though we have 500 years of history, we had to renew it and re-discover the wine, the vine, and the quality" says Demeter. Demeter worked first for a French company, and then for Grof Degenfeld, an aristocratic German-Hungarian family who, like everyone else, lost their family's holdings in the Tokaj region after the Second World War when the Communists took over. From Degenfeld, Demeter moved to a new winery project called Kiralyudvar, where under the direction of manager Istvan Szepsy and owner Anthony Hwang he helped establish what has become one of Hungary's most famous and pioneering wineries of the modern era. At Kiralyudvar Demeter and Szepsy first began making dry
white wines from the traditional grapes used to make the world-famous Tokaj sweet wines, a move that pointed towards a future for Hungarian wine that is still being forged by people like Demeter, and the generation that has followed him into the business.
OCTOBER 2013 Welcome to our newsletter of 2013.
WINE DINNERS Tassili
In August we hosted our vegetarian dinner and enjoyed some brilliant and healthy dishes from Richard, matched with a great selection of wines from around the world. In September we offered some of Spain’s greatest exports, paired with a delightful tasting menu prepared by Richard and his team.
Demeter began making wine under his own name in 1998, but it was not until 2008 that he decided he was ready to focus on his own wines on a full time basis. Demeter's holdings are spread across 9 different areas and 5 different villages in Hungary's Tokaj-Hegyalja wine region, whose violently volcanic past has produced a highly heterogeneous geology. Demeter makes a dry white wine from each of these soils, in what he sees as a race against time to learn the terroir of Tokaj. Demeter is widely regarded as one of the most accomplished winemakers in Hungary, but you'd never guess that listening to him talk. “I'm studying myself, and teaching myself, but the wine is teaching me. That is the main target to catch the right position in the center of terroir. I really believe that a winemaker has only two decisions to make. One is when they are going to cut the branch - to know when to cut, you have to know what ripeness means in a certain terroir - and with this cut you decide everything. There is another small decision, which is when to bottle. Everything else is a gift. Lapis is available from Dunells Premier Wines for around £35 a bottle.
Autumn has proven to be a time of change for us this year. Sarah Clarke has decided to move to colder pastures with her partner and will relocate to North Wales, she has been a star in the kitchen and will be greatly missed. Rob Wilton has joined the culinary team. Raluca Dumitru has also decided to leave us after four years in Tassili, she has decided to travel and see some of the world before settling down with her partner. This is also the awards time of year and we are delighted to announce that we have once again retained our coveted Michelin star for the third year running. The AA have also awarded our wine list a ‘Notable’ wine list, one of only 236 establishments in the UK, and something we are very proud of. Shaun Corrigan attended the AA Hospitality Award dinner in Park Lane last week and thoroughly enjoyed the event. Shaun has also been lucky enough to go through to the finals of the Academy of Food and Wine Services’ ‘Restaurant Manager of the Year’, which will took place on October 7th in Mayfair. Shaun didn’t win but the experience was very rewarding all the same. Richard travelled to Belfast on 5th October to cook at The Barking Dog restaurant group for the Belfast Restaurant Week. Michael and Gavin recently visited us from Ireland to learn a little of Jersey’s produce and Richards cooking style. You can follow Richard on Twitter on #tassilichef and like us on Facebook at Tassili at Grand Jersey.
The next few months: Thursday 31st October: The Wild Foods of Jersey Kazz Padidar will host our foraging dinner. Kazz is an expert forager and has helped develop our understanding of Jersey’s wild foods. He will talk us through Jersey’s wild plants and herbs. Thursday 28th November: Burgundy Gala Dinner Our much anticipated black-tie Gala dinner is almost here, and we invite our friend Michael Palij to join us for what promises to be a night to remember? Thursday 12th December: Umami Our last dinner of the year, we focus on the ‘fifth taste’ of Umami. For decades Umami was dismissed as folly, but recent studies have found a human synthesis with our senses and the glutamate which is the main component of this ‘savoury’ sensation. Next year; I have now finalised next years wine program of twelve dinners and four master classes.
WINE MASTER CLASS
FEATURED RECIPE Double Ginger Cake
FEATURED SUPPLIER Louis Jackson at ‘The Fresh Fish Co.’
Ingredients; 250g self raising flour 2 tspns ground ginger ½ tspn ground cinnamon ½ tspn salt 1 tspn bicarbonate of soda 200g golden syrup 2 tspns stem ginger syrup (from the jar) 125g butter 3 lumps preserved stem ginger 125g dark muscouvado sugar 2 large eggs 240 ml milk Next years calendar of wine master classes will be events not to be missed. With a two hour classroom tuition and wine tasting of six wines, followed by a six course dinner paired with amazing wines and food. Saturday March 8th Bordeaux with Mark Savage MV £150pp Mark Savage is one of the UK’s leading wine merchants and one of the best tasters I have had the pleasure to meet. Mark will walk us through the intricacies of Bordeaux’s varied regions and its wines. Saturday May 10th Spain with Franck Massard £125pp Franck runs ‘Epicure Wines’ based in Priorato and now produces in many of Spain’s greatest regions. Franck will present his wines to us and explain his passion in detail. Saturday June 14th Soave with Stefano Inama £130pp Stefano is a pioneer of Soave’s Sauvignon revolution and he has become a regional legend in Verona. Stefano will talk us though the history of the region and present to us his wonderful wines. Saturday July 12th Zoltán Demeter of Tokaj-Hegyalja £140pp After assisting star wine maker István Szepsy, Demeter was responsible for production at the leading Tokaj estate Kiralyudvar. He is now focusing on his own production, specialising in dry, single vineyard Tokaji wines.
Method; 1. You will need a square cake tin measuring approximately 20-22cm, lined on the bottom with baking parchment or greaseproof paper. 2. Preheat the oven to 180C. Sift the flour with the ground ginger, cinnamon, bicarbonate of soda and salt. 3. Put the golden and ginger syrups and the butter into a small saucepan and warm over low heat. Dice the stem ginger finely, and then add it to the pan with the sugar. Let the mixture bubble gently for a minute, giving it an occasional stir to stop the fruit sticking on the bottom. 4. Break the eggs into a bowl, pour in the milk and beat gently to break up the egg and mix it into the milk. 5. Remove the butter and sugar mixture from the heat and pour into the flour, stirring smoothly and firmly with a large metal spoon. Mix in the eggs and milk. The mixture should be sloppy, with no trace of flour. 6. Scoop the mixture into the lined cake tin and bake for 35-40 minutes, until a skewer inserted in the centre of the cake come out clean. Unless you are serving it warm, leave the cake in its tin to cool, then tip it out onto a sheet of greaseproof paper. Wrap it in foil and, if you can, leave it to mature for a day or two before eating. Garnish with clotted cream or ice cream and a glass of Tokaji 6 Puttonyos, Zoltán Demeter from Hungary.
Supplying the season's best is fundamental to the Fresh Fish Company. Fresh spider crabs in the Summer months, particular to the Channel Isles, these are a league above all others, local mackerel, turbot, Dover sole, John Dory, monkfish, scallops to rival any, are but a taste of the range on offer. “Although at times it is difficult to supply locally caught fish, we appreciate Richard Allen’s patience, because good things come to those that wait.”………….. Louis Jackson
The Fresh Fish Company was established in 1999 by Louis Jackson, with the primary motive being to supply local fish to hotels and restaurants alongside the Fresh Fish Company Fish Stall which is situated right alongside the fish landing pier at Jersey Harbour.
“We are extremely proud to be associated with Louis Jackson and The Fresh Fish Co. They have been incredibly helpful in sourcing the very best local fish and shellfish for Tassili restaurant. Not only are they important business partners, they are also a very nice bunch of people to know.” ……... Richard Allen
Since its inception the company ethics have not changed; ‘To buy and supply as much locally caught fish and shellfish as possible at all times.’ ‘To play our part in the conservation of fish and shellfish globally.’ ‘To go the extra mile to source, for example XXL live langoustines, and to make the effort to gather ourselves local cockles and clams to supply the Grand Jersey, to name but one.’ The business has developed hugely, now supplying several top hotels and restaurants in Oxford and London. Local fish and shellfish are refrigerated and delivered within eighteen hours, direct to the kitchens of some of the UK's finest restaurants.
Jersey Chancre Crab