VNV: These days a home and winery such as yours would probably be referred to as “wine country rustic” in terms of design style. Would you agree with that description or would that be stretching it? BC: Definitely a stretch. Being kind, I would call it eclectic, maybe early caveman. Being honest, it is a bunch of mismatched buildings and materials thrown together. It was built by the first owner with leftovers from other projects. It has a genuine ’50s look and feel. Cobbled together might be accurate. VNV: Does anyone know that your daughter Brie is the brains behind this operation? Or should we keep that a secret? BC: Let’s keep that a secret as much as possible. She also has the looks, talent, sophistication and the charm. VNV: What one mistake did you make in your wine career? And conversely, what was the smartest thing you did in your wine career? BC: Just one? Well, of course, not buying vineyards when they were cheaper. The smartest decision? Not buying those damned vineyards!
Courtesy of Tulocay Winery
VNV: A schizophrenic answer if there ever was one. BC: Yes, but it was fun. Actually, buying
Fernando Delgado with Buddy and Calvin SPRING/SUMMER 2015
Bill Cadman with daughter, Brie.
this place back in 1972 was the best decision I ever made. VNV: How would you describe your winemaking style? BC: Non manipulative…I don’t want to have to add much of anything or take away much of anything, like alcohol. I’m an old timer so I believe in cool climate viticulture…lower brix, good PH levels. VNV: Who do you admire in the Napa Valley wine biz now? BC: That’s easy … Fernando Delgado. He has been working the Haynes vineyard in Coombsville for nearly forty years. He lives in the vineyard and really knows it. He practically names every vine. I really respect him. I’ve been buying his grapes for decades. VNV: The Napa Valley has been labeled as an “adult Disneyland” Is that disappointing? BC: Yes. Disneyland implies artificial and unreal. That’s not what the valley used to be and shouldn’t be. Nowadays some people who visit do so because it is a famous place, or even just to hobnob with the rich and famous, not because they have any real interest in wine. It would be sad if the day comes when wine isn’t the main reason people come here. They’ll come for rock concerts and because this is where Kim Kardashian hangs out. They come for the restaurants. Oh, wait. They’re now called eateries. VERY NAPA VALLEY
was one of the first winemakers to put a vineyard name on a bottle. Martha’s Vineyard as an example, and in some cases, numbered wine bottles. And you already know about Robert and his legacy.
VNV: What will the Napa Valley look like in fifty years? BC: Fifty years from now? I won’t know. I will be half a mile away at the other Tulocay (cemetery). You’ll have to ring the doorbell on my tombstone to ask me. VNV: When folks come to visit your home/winery, what’s the impression you want them to leave with? BC: Intimacy…if it’s raining they taste wine in my kitchen or at my dining room table. On a nice day they taste on my deck or in my front yard. And they experience all that with the owner/winemaker. It reflects a French word…“degage”…free of constraint, nonchalant. VNV: What is the next trend for Napa Valley wine? BC: “Natural” wine, but I’m not sure what it really means. It suggests not manipulated. And it plays to an audience that wants that or believes it wants that. VNV: By the way, how are you supposed to spell Tulocay and what does the name mean? And while we are talking about the name, why did you select that one for your winery? BC: It’s a native Indian word and I actually don’t know what it means. Since they didn’t write much, the spelling has many interpretations. A hundred years ago they used “u” in many cases for an “o”. I used the same spelling that the cemetery uses a half mile away from here… planning ahead I guess? 71