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October/November 2015 £2.99

#1

UK’s Best Selling Black Magazine

325 SUPER

COOL STYLES TRUTH REVEALED

What men really think of natural hair!

BLACK DON’T CRACK Why we age well

CURL ENVY The politics of being natural

ALL THE RAGE

Filipino hair takes over GET THE LOOK

MAKE-UP SEEN ON

INSTAGRAM

Trend alert HAIR * BEAUTY * FASHION 10 9 770263 321099

For more style ideas log on to www.blackbeautyandhair.com


Contents

WHAT’S IN THIS ISSUE… ON THE COVER

76

Beauty trend report

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KARL LAKE. HAIR BY KHAIRMAX. MAKE-UP BY AGA. STYLING BY LIVE LOVEN STYLE

Trend special 72 Hair trends

This season’s must-wear hairstyles

32

Hair flair

48 Be more

76 Beauty trend report

Looks we love

78 Back to the Eighties!

Key fashion pieces

80 Smoke & mirrors

Beauty goes extreme 82 The deep end

Purple lips rock the runway 84 Short version

36 What they didn’t teach in hairdressing college

Top afro hairstylists spill the beans 40 The next big thing

Find out why Filipino hair by Madali Hair is a must-have

Josh Hair & Beauty vamp up short hair 87 AFWL report

African Fashion Week London recap 90 Do you follow trends?

Street style

42 Hype Coiffure celebrates 20 years at the top

We take a look at their success

Hair fix

14 Sleek meets straight

The new way to wear straight tresses 32 Hair flair

Runway-ready hair by Afrotherapy 34 Good hair keeping

Get rid of bad hair habits with the new Fantasia IC range

44 Alesha Dixon goes blonde

Get the scoop from her colourist Michelle Sultan 48 Be More

Gorgeous wigs by Khairmax 53 Iconic

X Factor stylist Jamie Stevens’ pop idol collection 58 Nail your weave 24/7

Whitney Marie share their expertise

53 Iconic

OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5 BB&H 3


Contents 93 The hottest natural styles out now

The next big trends for natural hair

96 Three new haircuts to try today

We’ve got the best cuts for you!

98 Orange is the new black

Mizani Afro Catwalk Award’s gorgeous winning shoot

68 Such a softie

Wise buys & features 60 Beauty edit

The page for beauty lovers 62 Beauty startups

60

64 Cut crease eyes

Beauty edit

New beauty brands worth knowing Get the look

64

Kerry Washington masters casual chic

66 Copy that look

Naturalistas

68 Such a softie

100 High top fade

Pretty pastel inspiration

The boy cut gets a girly makeover

128 Breast cancer - spot the signs

102 Big on braids

An easy to follow four-step guide 130 Think pink

Retail therapy to fight breast cancer 132 Hair & beauty in Korea

International vloggers share their niche discoveries 134 Forever young

Anti-ageing advice

Four hot braided styles 104 Something for the weekend!

Stunning natural hair by Dionne Smith 106 Natural hair & balayage

Fab reader makeover by Hair Lounge 108 4C hair restyle

Maintaining your curls just got easier 110 Natural hair: The good, the bad, the ugly

A blogger reflects on her time in the natural hair community 113 HD Curls

Tips for defining curls 116 HD Curls - what to use

Curl defining hair products 118 Five most common hair questions

Root2tip have the answers

104

Something for the weekend 4 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

Cut crease eyes

120 Ideas for curly hair extensions

Using Isis Faux Remi Hair 124 What men really think of natural hair

Brace yourself for the truth! 126 What’s natural

Product junkie page

134 Forever young

24

Salon style

Salon style 24 Diligence 26 Jimmy Campbell 28 Lathaniel’s Couture

Regulars 18 What’s new 136 Your beauty 138 Your hair 140 Good for you 142 Your freebies 143 Salon directory 146 Where to get it


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Style shown: African Collection - Reggae Braid. © 2015 Feme Ltd.

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MAKE A TRUE IMPACT Ace authenticity with the African collection from Sensationnel, a coming together of beautiful weaves and braids that celebrate their rich cultural heritage. Choose bona fide twists including Jamaican Locks and Reggae Braids or work soft Afro Kinky halo styles.

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Editor’s comment

Luxury Skin and Hair Care

Did you suffer from weather fatigue last season? What I mean by that is, did you start the day not knowing what to wear and then ended getting drenched in your summer frock, all because your smartphone promised decent weather? Well, not any more —awesome autumn is here. The great thing is you know where you are with autumn. It never disappoints unlike other seasons, it can never be too rainy, or too warm. Expectations are low, so any hint of sunshine is a bonus. Use this misty, mellow season as prep time for getting ready for the winter. Moisturise skin to keep that complexion glowing and your hair hydrated and nourished. If you need to swot up on the latest products check out What’s new (page 18) and Beauty edit (page 60). Many people dream of starting their own cosmetic companies because they can’t find the make-up products they want in the stores. We talk to the up-and-coming beauty entrepreneurs to find out how they got started. See Beauty startups (page 62). More and more women are leaving behind chemicals and embracing their natural hair. It’s given them confidence to wear their curly texture so proudly. So how do the guys feel about the natural hair movement? Check out What men really think of natural hair (page 124) to get their take on the natural hair phenomenon. Strobing, balayage, negative space manicures may all sound unfamiliar, but they are terms for the new trends you’ll be seeing a lot of this season. Check out our Autumn/Winter 2015 What’s trending supplement (from page 71). Happy reading!

Editor / Irene Shelley irene@blackbeautyandhair.com Production/Sub Editor / Jemima Cousins jemima@blackbeautyandhair.com Advertisement Director / Pat Petker petker@hawkerpublications.com Admin Secretary / IreneJ@hawkerpublications.com Design & Production / Andrew Hill, ATG Media Interns /Nike Akintokun, Victoria Yusuf Publisher / Pat Petker petker@hawkerpublications.com Subscription Manager / Kim Taylor 01371 851 800 Editorial telephone / 020 7720 2108 Editorial fax / 020 7498 3023

WWW.NUBIAN - QUEEN.COM info@nubian-queen.com 0844 415 7805

Website address / www.blackbeautyandhair.com Email address / info@blackbeautyandhair.com

© Hawker Publications 2015. Black Beauty & Hair is published bi-monthly by Hawker Consumer Publications Ltd, 2nd Floor Culvert House, Culvert Road, Battersea, London SW11 5DH. Printed in the UK by Garnett Dickinson Print Ltd, Brookfields Way, Manvers, Wath-upon-Dearne, Rotherham S63 5DL. Colour Repro by ATG Media, Nicholson House, 41 Thames Street, Weybridge, Surrey KT13 8JG. Annual Subscriptions (UK) £17. Overseas by surface mail £24. Air mail £30. 8 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5


NEW

UK

WEBSITE SHOP ONLINE

www.blackup.co.uk


The place to be NATURAL HAIR PAGEANT

NEW SALONS

The first Natural Hair pageant will be taking place in the UK in 2016. Heats will be held throughout the UK, culminating in the crowning of Ms Natural Hair UK. So if you’ve got natural hair whether it’s loose natural hair, locs, Sisterlocks, or a TWA, the organisers would love to hear from you. Contact info@consciousvibes.co.uk for more details.

George Kosit

10 - 12 Bristol Street, Birmingham B5 7AA 0121 622 6782

Revolution Hair Lounge No 6 Suffolk Queensway Birmingham BU1 1LT 0121 633 4336

My Hair Bar

22 Warren Street London W1T 5LU 020 3137 7397

GRAND OPENING

Award winning hairdresser George Kosit put on a hair and fashion show to celebrate the opening of a new salon in Birmingham, which bears his name. The salon interior is a fusion of East meets industrial, with high ceilings and oversized features such as mirrors and ornaments, resulting in an opulent and relaxing environment. George Kosit, 10-12 Bristol Street, Birmingham B5 7AA. Tel: 0121 622 6782

HAIR AWARDS DATES

No Scrunchie Good Afro Salon Awards 22nd November 2015 L’Oréal Academy, Hammersmith

SCENE

British Hairdressing Awards 23rd November 2015 Grosvenor House Hotel, Park Lane

Black Beauty/ Sensationnel Hair Awards

News, views, people and places

29th November 2015 Hilton Metropole, Edgware Road

WAH Nails founder, Sharmadean Reid

BlackBeautyMag

NAILED IT

SERENA WEARS SLEEK HAIR

A regular on the ‘most influential people’ lists, Sharmadean Reid, founder of WAH Nails has been awarded an MBE for services to the nail and beauty industry. Reid set up her nail store in Dalston in 2008 because she couldn’t find a nail salon that did the designs she wanted. WAH nails now has pop up shops around the country including TopShop, with a namesake brand selling in Boots. Collaborations with global brands like Marc Jacobs, and Diesel, means WAH Nails has its fingers firmly on the fashion pulse.

BlackBeautyMag

12 BB & H O CTO B ER / N OVEMBER 201 5

Tennis champion Serena Williams wore Hair by Sleek during the Wimbledon tournament. Word only got around when her UK hairstylist, Lorraine Dublin, tweeted a throwback Thursday post.

BACKSTAGE PASS

Black Beauty & Hair were given an access all areas pass to the African Fashion Week London 2015 shows. The annual event was sponsored by Motions, who were responsible for the models’ beautiful hair. Their styling team which included Allan Henry, worked hair into pompadours, braided updos and messy buns. For more on AFWL 2015 see page 87.

BlackBeautyandHair

www.blackbeauty andhair.com

DOWNLOAD THE LATEST ISSUE VIA ITUNES OR POCKETMAGS


Looks We Love

TREND WATCH

Sleek meets

straight Michael Wilson from Salon Revolution brings us up to speed on the new straight tresses that are in town

What do you love about this hairstyle? I really like how the strands are free flowing. It makes the hair easy to style and maintain.

Any maintenance tips? Wash the hair every seven to 10 days. Add Moroccan or argan oil to maintain moisture and the straightness without resorting to heat. A hydrating shampoo and conditioner also ensures long lasting shine.

14 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

PHOTOGRAPHY AND MAKE-UP BY JOANNA PETIT-FRERE. HAIR BY NANCY V BROWN

How do we nail sleek and straight hair? Many will reach for the straighteners to achieve sleekness but the trick is all in the blow-drying. Use a round bristle brush or set the hair in large rollers so the end results look thick and not limp.


Made with Natural Aloe Vera

Hair Treatment Relaxer

fantasiahaircare.com | MADE IN USA

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TRADE ENQUIRIES: SBS Ltd - Email: SBSLTD@outlook.com


Wise Buys QUICK FIX

For instant volume or a quick change of length, make sure you have Hairaisers 27 Pieces Brazilian Human Hair Weave (£14.95) close to hand. One pack contains a variation of wefted short to long lengths to achieve any desired style

ALL ABOUT THE HONEY

Label.m Deep Conditioning Honey & Oat Hair Mask (£15.75/120ml) comes with high-grade humectants that transform brittle strands to smoother, shinier and stronger locks. Definitely a must-have in this chilly season!

HOT INFUSIONS

Lee Stafford’s ArganOil from Morocco Electricals range cleverly releases argan oil into the hair shaft during heat styling to guarantee radiant shine. Prices start from £24.99

STYLE @ HOME

INNER STRENGTH

Bamboo is rich in minerals and organic proteins that help strengthen hair follicles and retain moisture to promote a healthy shine with no greasy residue. It sounds so good that Hair Chemist has used this nurturing ingredient to formulate the Bamboo range that includes a Strengthening Hair & Scalp Oil and Deep Repair Masque. Prices start from £3.29

WHAT’S NEW The latest hair products out now STAR CAST

Reap the benefits of your favourite oils with Morimax 100% Pure Virgin Natural Oils for Hair & Body (£4.99/150ml)

QUOTE BBH FOR A 10 PER CENT DISCOUNT

WINTER REMEDY

Winter tresses have the habit of being dry and brittle. Solve the problem with OGX’s Hydrate + Revive Argan Oil of Morocco, Shampoo and Conditioner (£7.99/385ml). Enriched with silk proteins and healing argan oil, even the most damaged, weather worn tresses will be nourished and revitalised

18 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

LIMITED TIME ONLY

COLOUR CHAMELEON

Want to experiment with trending styles but don’t have the nerve to commit? The new wig collection by Papachichi Style will see you right. The eight styles boasts the latest colour designs seen on celebrities like Rihanna and Kylie Jenner. Choose from aqua tones or dip-dyed ombrés, to sophisticated caramel browns. Prices start from £310


Wise Buys

WHAT’S NEW BLOWN AWAY

Unlike traditional brushes, the new Tangle Teezer Blow Styling Paddle Brush (from £18) removes excess water left on the hair after washing to speed up blow-drying time! It also lessens tension, preventing breakage and tangles

DO THE TWIST!

Take the hard work out of braiding and twisting with the Scunci Instatwist (£30). The nifty device creates the perfect plait or twist everytime and is suitable for all lengths and textures including hair extensions

FULL STEAM AHEAD

Heat styling doesn’t have to mean heat damage. L’Oréal Professional Steampod (£170) uses high-pressure steam to achieve a long lasting, glossy finish. This gentler approach doesn’t expose hair to the wear and tear of thermal styling and retains much-needed moisture

WIN SEE PAGE

142

FOR ALL TEXTURES

TEXTURE RICH

Macadamia Professional Ultra-Rich Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner (£18.90/300ml) caters to thick curly hair with a therapeutic blend of macadamia and argan oils that tames unruly frizz and leaves curls noticeably soft

ONE FOR ALL

Mizani 25 Miracle Milk (£16.45/250ml) is an absolute hair essential! The nourishing leave-in treatment has 25 hair benefits that include beautifying, strengthening and hydrating – putting an end to an overly timeconsuming wash regime!

WEIGHTLESS SHINE

Fast track your way to enviable shine with TRESemmé Oleo Radiance. It uses revolutionary dry oil technology in its lightweight conditioning formulae that deeply penetrates porous hair. Price starts from £5.99

Silver tresses are in! And if you want to bring the best out of your greys try Klorane’s Shampoo with Cornflower (£7/200ml). It enhances the natural radiance of fading hairs by illuminating existing hairs, so now you can trade dull grey strands for a brighter, more youthful shine 20 BB &H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

STAY GREY


PHOTOGRAPHY BY HAINSLEY BROWN. HAIR BY PEKKA IKOMI AT DILIGENCE, 111 BROADWAY WEST, EALING, LONDON W13. 020 8579 4001

Salon Style

DILIGENCE

WHEN IT COMES TO THE BEST CUTS, IT’S ALL IN THE DETAIL

24 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5


PHOTOGRAPHY BY EDDIE GREGORY. HAIR BY SARAH MABIKA AT JIMMY CAMPBELL, 32 PARSONS GREEN LANE, LONDON, FULHAM SW6. TEL: 020 7610 9321. MAKE-UP BY FANNY BURGOF

Salon Style

JIMMY CAMPBELL

REINVENT YOUR LOOK WITH TONAL FRINGES AND SASSY CURLS

26 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5


PHOTOGRAPHY BY KOSHMO. HAIR BY SHEREFA HAYNS AT LATHANIEL’S COUTURE HAIR & BEAUTY, 196 COLDHARBOUR LANE, BRIXTON SE5. TEL: 020 3601 0683. MAKE-UP BY NANA YAA

Salon Style

LATHANIEL’S COUTURE UNLEASH YOUR NATURAL HAIR DESIRES

28 BB & H O CTO B ER / N OV EM B ER 2 01 5


LIGHTENING

SKIN CARE

Brighter, smoother, more evenly toned skin Daggett & Ramsdell Skin Lightening Creams are specially formulated to help fade dark areas, skin discolorations, age spots and imperfections in the skin. They help even natural skin tone with a moisturizing, non-irritating formula that is gentle to the skin. Skin Lightening Creams help to lighten the skin for overall brighter, smoother, healthier skin. 011-845-398-3340 FISK TEL: FAX: 011-845-398-3357 INDUSTRIES

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Go longer between colourings Instant professional quality results Quick & easy to use WWW.COVERYOURGRAY.COM / WWW.FILLINPOWDER.COM FISK INDUSTRIES, INC • TEL: 001-845-3340 • FAX: 001-845-398-3357


Season’s Best

CREATIVE CROP This cut does not fall short on style appeal. The well placed colour gives this short snip a boost of energy and the larger than life fringe lets people know you’ve entered the room

HairFlair Afrotherapy’s runway-ready collection

CRIMP CRUSH Smooth roots and crimped ends make a delicious texture combo that everyone would want to feast their eyes on! For a bit of flair, the straight cut bang grazes the lash line to create an air of mystery

32 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5


ASYMMETRIC ALLURE A bold cut packed with layers and light reflecting shine will win any style contest! Long layers that are given a voluminous snip and fall over the eye is the epitome to super cool sexiness

BLAZED BOB Update a crop with a few simple twists to bring the look from summer heat to autumn treat! Berry highlights mingle with glossy black tresses throughout the long and lusciously thick bang

O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 33

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAMI OYETADE. HAIR BY HARRIET KESSIE- CUDJOE AT AFROTHERAPY, 235 FORE STREET, EDMONTON, LONDON N18. TEL: 020 8345 5632. MAKE-UP BY NANCY THOMAS

Season’s Best


GOOD HAIR KEEPING Dry, brittle and damaged strands are all signs of bad hair habits. Introduce good practices with the new Fantasia IC Aloe Oil system

Tell us about the new Fantasia Aloe Oil range‌ Fantasia Aloe Oil Repair & Revive helps to calm an itching and flaking scalp by loosening and lifting the dead, scaly skin from the scalp to enhance its natural beauty. The magnificent Aloe plant has been used for over a thousand years to beautify the hair and heal the scalp.

1

Prices start from ÂŁ4.49 34 BB & H O CTO B ER / N OVEM B ER 201 5

2

4 3


What hair type is the Fantasia IC Aloe Oil products suited for? The entire Aloe Oil product range penetrates deep into the hair fibers to prevent breakage, repair split and dry hair ends. The excellent moisturising and detangling properties makes it easier to comb through the hair while imparting a beautiful shine. It works very well on long and wavy, short and straight, frizzy and unmanageable, or smooth and shiny hair textures.

What hair problems does it solve? The range is a hair treatment system that can be used to treat a number of concerns such as breakage and hair loss, however it can also be used to upkeep daily hair care issues such as restoring moisture and nourishing damaged hair.

What are the beneďŹ ts of the ingredients? The enzyme in aloe vera attacks skin cells that clog the hair follicles to leave moisture and shine. By helping to unclog the hair follicles the nutrients that promote hair growth are also released. Also these natural enzymes in aloe vera destroy the excessive dead skin cells and fungus that leads to dandruff (malassezia), while also leaving the scalp’s pH level balanced and hair moisturised. Products with amino acids promote moisture and condition the hair. For women with tightly coiled strands, natural oils are trapped at the root, but the good news is, aloe vera has 20 amino acids!

Jojoba &

Shea Butter

FROM BREAKING BAD TO BREAKING GOOD Here are hair practices Fantasia IC recommend to lessen breakage

1

Apply Fantasia Aloe Oil Hair Treatment Relaxer when you have at least an inch of new growth to provide enough room for the relaxer process. Depending on your hair texture and growth rate this may be between eight to 10 weeks.

2

Fortify your hair regularly with the sulfate-free Strengthening Shampoo and condition with the Anti-breakage Conditioner.

3

For an intense treatment, add a few drops of the Complete Hair Treatment into the conditioner, place a cap over hair and sit under a warm dryer for 10-15 minutes.

4

Use the Moisture Renewal Leave-In before styling. This will protect and repair fragile hair from increased damage.

RESTORATIVE

SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER Natural Jojoba and Shea Butter extracts cleanse and strengthen your hair for a dramatically shinier, healthier look. Restorative Shampoo and Conditioner add moisture to repair dull and damaged hair. Available at fine beauty supply stores nationwide and online at

WWW.HAIRCHEMISTLIMITED.COM 011-845-398-3340 FISK TEL: FAX: 011-845-398-3357 INDUSTRIES

O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 35


Salon Talk

WHAT THEY DIDN’T TEACH AT HAIRDRESSING COLLEGE The UK’s leading hair professionals share with Carly Lewis what they’ve picked up along the way

Extreme environment

Errol Douglas MBE, award-winning hairstylist and salon owner www.erroldouglas.com

‘When you start off there are a lot of things which come into play. You’re standing up all day, you’re using muscles you’ve never used before with regards to your fingers, and depending on your height you have to be careful of your posture. Also the lighting in these environments is very intense - it’s almost like being in an operating theatre. You’ve got these intense lights because obviously you have to see the hair colour and how you’re cutting. That was an initial thing for me during the first couple of months because I wasn’t used to the environment. The other thing is understanding what the proper communication is between a client and a hairdresser. You have to absolutely understand that when somebody says ‘no’ they don’t want something they mean no and you shouldn’t do it. Even if you’re going off your experience or you think it will look better your way, just do not do it. A lot of hairdressers go off their own opinions and it gets them in huge predicaments. You need the ability to multitask and communicate with other people i.e. your co-workers because you could be asked to do a multitude of things in one second and then walk through the salon and be asked to do 10 other different things. Ultimately when you’re learning you need to get the right balance with what you’re doing.’

Client communication ‘One of the things that I didn’t learn at college was client rapport. Yes I was taught how to do a consultation but actually dealing with everyday clients and situations that occur in the salon isn’t something that can be taught. Naturally, whilst you’re at college if something goes wrong or not as planned you have a tutor there to fall back on and guide you along the way, but when you are out of a college environment you are on your own. This is where you have no choice but to deal with whatever situation arises. Over the years that I have been hairdressing I’ve naturally become confident in what I am doing and advising. An experienced stylist will analyse the face shape, hair routine and scalp of the client and take all those factors into account when cutting and styling. As an educator myself, I know that experience cannot be taught. It’s about a journey that you learn along the way.’ 36 BB & H O CTO B ER / N OV EM B E R 2 01 5

Michelle Thompson, award-winning hairstylist and creative director of Francesco Group www.francescogroup.co.uk


Pressure points “Nowadays people feel that everything should be instantaneous and they should get it overnight. But there is a process which everyone goes through based on experience, development and maturity. You only get that from consistent exposure to something, so trying to somehow hone that in and teach it on a course is very difficult. You have to learn how to be OK with yourself if things don’t go well and how to manage yourself within a working environment so that you don’t leave your client, or someone you’re working alongside, with the impression that you don’t know what you’re doing and they lose their confidence in you. It takes many years for people to accept the fact that not everything is going to go well, and you have to adapt when things don’t go to plan and manage yourself in such a way that everyone is left thinking that you are in control and you know what you’re doing. That’s definitely something that only life experiences can give you.”

Kevin Fortune, founder of the Kevin Fortune Hairstyling Academy www.kevinfortuneuk.com

Styling specifics

Carl Campbell, celebrity hairstylist www.carlcampbellhair.com

“In college I didn’t really learn about styling hair or variations of haircuts. They give you the basic information on how to do a haircut, which consists of maybe five or six cuts, but they don’t teach you a variety of techniques and how to fuse all of those different steps into one haircut. Luckily I was only going to college once a fortnight whilst I was doing an apprenticeship at Hype Coiffure. I got to see stylists working with hair and I actually learned most of my skills through watching and observing. You’re never going to get that sort of experience being in college five days a week. I learnt from working hands-on and making mistakes and having great stylists around me that could show me where I went wrong. That’s how I really developed my skills. We weren’t taught how to weave in college and obviously that’s a big part of my job now. They don’t really have afro hair specialists and the only thing that differentiates an afro hairdresser from a European hairdresser is one unit, which is the relaxer and curly perm unit.”

Tracking time “I don’t think anyone can prepare you for the hours. They try and give you long hours when you’re at college because some days on the course finish in the evening at around 8pm, but when you work in a salon you’re not going to finish dead on time just because you’ve been told what your set hours are. You miss out on a lot of stuff, not intentionally, but because you’re just not finishing on time, so for me that took a while to adjust to. What I did was change how I wanted to work, so I now only work from Wednesday to Saturday in the salon - I don’t do Monday and Tuesday, and there’s a reason for that. There’s never a cut off point if you take on all the days in the week so you’re just working all the time. For a positive salon experience I encourage clients (including my celebrity ones) to arrive on time and to at least have an idea of what they want. In most cases this takes the pressure off and makes it an enjoyable experience for everyone.”

Lorraine Dublin, celebrity hairstylist www.lorrainedublin.com O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 37


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Coif Crush

THE NEXT BIG THING

Move over Brazilian and Peruvian hair, weave companies like Madali Hair are now sourcing lush locks from the Philippines, fuelling the latest hair craze

A quick search of #HairExtensions on Instagram will result in thousands of pages selling 100% Virgin, Indian Remy, Brazilian and other exotically named hair – but buyer beware! The problem is that the origin of the hair for sale is rarely from the exotically named country that it represents, with most of it being a product of China. Additionally, sales practices are usually suspect with no returns or exchanges and using suspicious PayPal accounts for transactions, which is designed to land you with subpar products.

US STARS SPOTTED WEARING FILIPINO HAIR

MICHELLE WILLIAMS

Madali Hair, based in Singapore, sources 100 per cent virgin human hair directly from the processing source in the Philippines. When BBH spoke to Madali Hair president, Aaron Mitchell he told us, ‘We searched far and wide for the best product and we found it in Filipino hair. Aside from the quality of the craftsmanship, we really found hair that was more reflective of our own hair.’

LETOYA LUCKETT

WENDY WILLIAMS

Madali Hair offers virgin Filipino hair extensions in four styles: Straight, Loose Wave, Tight Wave and Kinky. Available online at www.madalihair.com

40 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5


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Salon Pros

HYPE COIFFURE

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS AT THE TOP We salute one of London’s hottest afro salons 20 Years of Success

The vision of Hype Coiffure began in 1995. Businessman Calvin Rattray dreamed of creating a salon that would provide first-class afro hairdressing services in a welcoming environment at affordable prices. Since Hype opened its first salon in Balham, South West London 20 years ago, it has grown from strength to strength. A string of impressive awards, a team of talented stylists and a large and loyal client base have helped them to earn their reputation as one of the most successful African-Caribbean hairdressing groups in the UK and ensured their longevity.

42 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

Multi Award-Winning

Rattray and his team have won close to 40 prestigious awards (including numerous Black Beauty/Sensationnel Hair Awards) for their specialist afro styling, colouring, weaving, cutting and bridal expertise, as well as the business as a whole. Battersea directors Kim Johnson and Michelle Sultan were both named British Hairdressing Awards Afro Hairdressers of the Year in 2010 and since then, the team have continued to amass a string of titles testament to their unmatched skills.

Celebrity Clientele

Their prestigious reputation for being the leaders in the afro hair market sees the team called upon by top national and international magazines for shoots, blockbuster films and top hairdressing shows. They also tend to the tresses of well-known celebrities. Award-winning director 5ive has worked with Alexandra Burke, Natalie Joseph has styled X Factor 2014 star Fleur East’s famous curls and renowned director Michelle Sultan styled Alesha Dixon’s tresses for this year’s series of Britain’s Got Talent, something she’s

been personally requested to do for several years.

Rigorous Training Standards Each member of staff is trained to the highest standard to ensure all clients’ needs are met. With experts in relaxing, natural hairstyling, weaves, keratin treatments and colour across the team, Hype offers every service a client could ever need under one roof. The team work closely with leading product companies and regularly attend industry seminars to ensure that their styles, techniques and knowledge remain at the cutting edge.

A Strong Emphasis on Customer Care

The entire team believes that training, professionalism and quality of service are paramount to guaranteeing client delight. Calvin Rattray attributes Hype’s on-going success to their strong emphasis on customer service and attention to clients’ needs. All Hype stylists ensure each and every client leaves the salon feeling relaxed, calm and beautiful – no matter if it’s a brand new face or a regular visitor.


TEAM SPIRIT

Hype Coiffure has nurtured some amazing talent over the past 20 years. Here two team members talk about why working at Hype has been the making of them

Natalie Joseph

Schola Rose

KIM JOHNSON, Director at the Battersea branch of Hype Coiffure What makes Hype Coiffure special? What makes Hype special is our hairdressing expertise, customer care, the high standard of service we provide and our ability to work well as a team. Over the past decade what have been your favourite hair trends? My favourite trends over the past ten years have been disconnected haircuts and undercuts.

‘Working at Hype has taught me everything I know, I’ve been here for 18 years – since I was 17! When I started I could only shampoo, and last year I was crowned Southern Stylist of the Year 2014 at the Black Beauty/ Sensationnel Awards! I’ve not only learnt how to be a professional stylist but I have also become a confident person thanks to the support from Hype. I’ve grown up here.’

‘I’ve been working at Hype for 11 years and it has been an incredible experience. The team here is more like a family, everyone is very supportive and they also know how to have a good time and enjoy life. Working at Hype has taught me that I am never too old to learn a new skill. I’ve been encouraged to explore my creativity (and win prestigious hair awards), and I’ve learnt that I can achieve anything with the support of my team. I’m definitely working amongst some of the best stylists in the industry!’

And worst trends? That’s a tough one! In terms of colour, I personally wasn’t a fan of green or blue tints, but there aren’t many trends I haven’t liked. Why do love working at this salon? I love working at Hype because of the fantastic team spirit - everyone is always willing to help each other. It’s also great that you’re always learning something new.

ALL HAIR BY HYPE COIFFURE STYLISTS

CLIENT TESTIMONIALS ‘Their advice and service have been to the highest standard and I can confidently say that I would be happy to recommend them to anyone looking for a professional and courteous service.’ Brenda Brown

‘They are forward thinking with great imagination and will never deliver anything that is second rate or below standard.’ Marilyn Lewis ‘There’s always a lovely atmosphere in the salon and staff are always so welcoming and friendly.’ Phoebe Scopes

Dream team: Hype stylists

What can we expect from Hype in the next 10 years? More success and great hairdressers continue to come up through the ranks. We’d also love to open an academy and perhaps a salon outside of the UK. Watch this space! What has working at Hype taught you as a stylist? How important it is to give great customer care and to work out what look will best suit their needs and personality.

Hype Coiffure, Battersea

Twitter: @OfficialHypeUK Instagram: hypecoiffureuk O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 43


Mane News

ALESHA DIXON GOES BLONDE

Stylist to the stars Michelle Sultan is the colour mastermind behind Alesha Dixon’s recent blonde transformation What’s Alesha’s natural hair like? Alesha has very curly, fine hair. It has a tendency to be quite dry, so we treat her hair with lots of KeraStraight Moisture Mask (£25).

Michelle Sultan

Bravo on making Alesha a blonde bombshell. What prompted the colour change? The colour change was actually bought on by Alesha as she wanted to go lighter. It complements her skin tone really well and brightens her overall look. Where do you find style inspirations? Everywhere - the catwalks, the streets, even museums! My go-to place for inspiration at the moment is Instagram - I love The Cut Life, which is dedicated to short hair. I also get my inspiration from other hairstylists around the world.

Does the BGT judge have any specific hairstyles that she loves? She’s really progressive with her look and her image has evolved loads during the 15 years I’ve been working with Alesha. What’s hat’s she’s really into at the moment is keeping it simple, almost undone, understated but beautiful! Are you and Alesha fans of wigs and weaves? We use extra hairpieces sometimes to create volume or

for a statement hair-up but we don’t tend to use wigs or weaves. When on the road how do you keep Alesha’s hair in good condition? It’s not that easy as we are out of the salon, but I bring a mini-salon along to keep her hair looking great. I try not to over-style with hot tools to keep her hair in the best possible condition. We get through a lot of Philip Kingsley Elasticizer (£17), it works really well on Alesha’s hair.

What have h you got planned for Alesha next style wise? You’ll have to wait and see! Although we might go a little lighter and maybe even shorter… you heard it here first.

Alesha debuting her new colour on Instagram

Alesha branches out with a classic Hollywood inspired curl set

The BGT judge experiments with jet black and a flash of burgundy

44 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

Here the hitmaker gets straight to the point with sleek tresses and a statement centre part

Dixon deviates from her usual flowing locks and opts for a casual updo

IMAGES BY SHUTTERSTOCK

STRICTLY GOT STYLE – Alesha’s recent colour and style choices


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Look Book

BE MORE Khairmax campaign shoot Affordable, high-quality and outright stunning, the UK hair company Khairmax know how to style wigs to the maximum. Founder Sade Akinosho tells us more

48 BB & H O CTO B ER / N OV EM B ER 2 01 5


Sade Akinosho

WHAT MAKES KHAIRMAX DIFFERENT TO OTHER HAIR EXTENSIONS OUT THERE? We believe in endless possibilities when it comes to hair. It’s not about selling the most expensive hair that requires purchasing 10 bundles and having you look like every other weave-wearing girl out there. It’s about inspiring women to be more and do more with their hair. We truly believe in encouraging women to explore and to try something new regularly.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR GROUNDBREAKING THREE PART CLOSURE. HOW DOES IT WORK? It came about as I sat in my stylist’s chair and could not decide where I wanted to place my one part closure: Left? Right? Or centre? And it was in that very moment I knew I had to create something that removed this limitation giving me the ease of switching sides how and when I felt like it. And so the three part closure was born The three-part closure unlike any closure before it gives you the luxury of three extremely natural partings in one closure, allowing you the freedom to be experimental with your hair. You are spoilt with the choice of styling your hair using any of the three different partings with incredible ease. YOU’VE EVEN CREATED THE KFRINGE. HOW DOES THAT WORK? I’m an advocate of change and always trying to convince clients to try something new, so

this was a product I created that I felt would encourage our clients to experiment with a fringe – something that they may not otherwise want to try because of fear that it would not suit them (and therefore did not want to fully commit), or for the simple fact that they would need to cut their precious hair – and believe me I know first-hand from being at a salon that no one wants to cut their beautiful virgin hair. Again, this is a closure piece like the one part or three part closure that is installed at the top of the head, but this time with the hair failing frontwards enabling its wearer to cut their desired fringe style without cutting into their own hair or hair extensions. So essentially only the closure piece is cut into a fringe. THIS SHOOT HAS SOME BEAUTIFUL COLOUR WORK. DOES KHAIRMAX OFFER A COLOUR SERVICE? This campaign shoot was the most fun and dynamic shoot we have done so far. O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 49


Look Book It wasn’t just about showcasing our catalogue of hair, it was about really demonstrating the possibilities of colour and style through using different wigs on the same model. We offer colour services at the salon. We create our own colour swatches using our own hair and colour systems so the outcome is true to the selection made. We offer consultations for all our services and carry all colouring techniques from highlights, ombré to balayage.

THE ULTIMATE WIG MANUAL When you need to wing it with a wig, here are the dos and don’ts DO

• Consult a wigologist or a reputable salon that specialises in custom-made wigs to consider all the options, and most importantly, to try a few on. • Take your time to select the right look for you. • Have a wig custom made to your desired specification (that includes colour and style). • Ensure your wig is being made with quality hair that can be easily manipulated however you want. • Keep a natural looking hairline.

SPOT OUR COVER GIRL

• Opt for a closure front wig if you want your wig to look as natural as possible. • Keep the shape of the wig by keeping it on a wig head/stand when you take it off.

DON’T

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE TO SOMEONE WHO HAS NEVER WORN A WIG? Wigs are no longer seen as an old fashioned trend or a secret nobody can talk about. The cliché of wigs not looking natural is a thing of the past. It’s not just for old ladies or men with no hair; it’s for everyone. Remember, it’s all about the hair that is used and how well it’s made so it looks as natural as possible. Wigs afford you the flexibility and ease of changing anytime you feel like it, without the commitment taking the pressures off constant weaving.

• If your wig is bought off the self; never wear it straight from the package. Buying one is the first step; the second one is styling it, having it cut according to the shape of your face and the style that you are trying to achieve. This is what makes a wig look natural.

MOST HAIR EXTENSIONS COMPANIES ARE BASED ONLINE, WHY DID YOU FEEL THE NEED TO OPEN TWO STORES? It was always my vision from day one! Like myself, hair is something you want to touch and feel. You cannot do that online. I wanted to create a physical hub for people to come to and in a society where everything is now online, it is great to have (where possible) that physical real relationship with our clients, speak to them one-on-one and hopefully inspire them to be more!

Khairmax Beaut y – Stratford Centre, 50 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

• Do not go bulky at the crown as it would make your wig look too obvious. • Avoid using wig glue too often as it might cause damage to the natural hair. • Do not wear your wig for too long. 4 4 B r o a d w a y, Lo n d o n E 1 5 1 X H 0 2 0 3 3 7 5 4 2 72

• Do not neglect your own hair. Take care of it.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KARL LAKE. HAIR BY KHAIRMAX AT KHAIRMAX BEAUTY, STRATFORD CENTRE, 44 BROADWAY, LONDON E15. TEL: 020 3375 4272. MAKE-UP BY AGA. STYLING BY LIVE LOVEN STYLE

• Keep your own hair underneath as flat and smooth as possible.


   

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Pop Idols

ICONIC X Factor stylist Jamie Stevens is accustomed to drawing inspiration from iconic eras and giving it modern day ďŹ nesse

O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 53


Pop Idols

‘I wanted the image to beam off the page, oozing power, softness and sexiness’ Jamie Stevens

SHOW THE STYLIST

LEFT: This look was based on the Eighties British punk scene, showing off texture and colour patterns. I looked to the graffiti art form to see how shapes, colours and lines can jump off the page and really make a hairstyle come to life BELOW LEFT: This look was based on the ultimate afro hair icon, Beyoncé! I wanted the image to beam off the page, oozing power, softness and sexiness; making women think ‘I want to be that woman!’ BELOW: The inspiration behind this image was to create a modern interpretation of a classic Sixties length bob. Think Josephine Baker with a modern twist

54 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5


 COCONUT

& MONOI COLLECTION

FOR DULL, DRY, THIRSTY HAIR


Pop Idols

ABOVE: With dual texture being a massive inspiration on the runway, we wanted to blend in two textures together to create an avant garde image. Taking a Dream Girls inspired Sixties beehive and adding a strong smooth straight hairline, mixed with an afro texture beehive, we created a striking silhouette ABOVE RIGHT: Drawing inspiration from the iconic Grace Jones with her strong at top shapes with hard lines, I wanted to add a modern twist with an editorial edge by putting a split through the centre to give it a striking visual difference LEFT: For this image we took inspiration from the Autumn/ Winter catwalks, seeing a massive revival of plaits and braids being used in hair. We wanted the image to be commercial and inspiring for all

56 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENS WIKHOLM. HAIR BY JAMIE STEVENS AT JAMIE STEVENS HAIR, 9 RUSSELL GARDENS, KENSINGTON W14. TEL: 020 7371 1944. MAKE-UP BY DRAGON

GRACE JONES VIBE


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Weave Shop

NAIL YOUR WEAVE 24/7

When should you use extensions? ‘There are plenty of great reasons to get extensions: wanting to wow at a special occasion, needing an everyday boost of glamour or something in between, are all great reasons to get extensions. They’re perfect for creating a signature look, protecting and giving your hair a breather, or for changing your style without the commitment. Hairstyles don’t get much more versatile than extensions. Whether it’s the colour of your hair or just the length, you can switch it up effortlessly. Extensions can also aid in hair growth too. The sewin method is a great protective style that prevents breakage and daily manipulation which can all inhibit healthy hair growth.’

The experts at Whitney Marie Hair share their expert advice on how to make the best extensions choice for you

What kinds of extensions are there? ‘There are choices that can be applied with ease, including wigs and clip-ins. But for more of a commitment, there are plenty of longer alternatives, such as wefted hair that can be sewn in, tape-in hairpieces that are applied with adhesive, strand by strand extensions that can be applied through linking or using heat to fuse with your hair strands, and also strand by strand braid/twists styles are all options available in salons. Weaves are a great option for those looking to custom colour the hair and cater to all hair types. The hair can also be reused multiple times, meaning the need to replace your extensions becomes less frequent and less costly.’

What kind of hair works best? ‘This all depends on the style you’re going for, how long you want it to last, and how natural you want it to both look and feel. Almost all of the stylists recommend human hair, as it will blend seamlessly with your own locks. There are many grades of human hair varying from those blended with synthetic hair all the way up to the rawest form of 100 per cent virgin, unaltered hair. At Whitney Marie we are fans of virgin Remy hair. This means that the hair has never been processed and has been collected in such a way that the cuticles of each individual hair are intact and the cuticles run in the same direction. In short, this means the hair is softer and silkier than other types. It is the highest quality hair.’

1 OMBRÉHAIR 2 MALAYSIAN DEEP WAVE HAIR EXTENSIONS 3 CLIP-IN IN COLOUR 27 58 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

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FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

WHAT’S TRENDING


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Wise Buys Eye, Eye Save splash or splurge on our selection of autumn eye palettes

IN THE CLEAR

Keep skin blemish-free with Super Facialist by Una Brennan Purifying Cleansing Wash (£7.99/150ml). Formulated with salicylic acid and vitamin B3, the SLS-free foam gel cleanser detoxifies and washes away impurities without stripping skin of natural oils

SAVE W7 Bronze

Queen (£5.95)

SPLASH MeMeMe Ultimate

Eye Palette (£15)

SPLURGE

Bobbi Brown Limited Edition Telluride Eye Palette (£39.50)

BARELY THERE

The rich, foaming lather of bareMinerals Well Cared For Brush Conditioning Shampoo (£10/110ml) gently cleanses and conditions make-up brushes with nourishing ingredients

BEAUTY EDIT The BBH team headhunt the latest beauty treats out now

NEARLY NUDE

The Black Beauty & Hair beauty desk loves BlackUp’s Nail Lacquer Sublime Nudes Collection that comes in nine glossy shades. Topping the charts is NVAO10 (£12.50)

CREATE WOW BROWS

with COLORWOW’s Root Cover Up (£28.50). Originally designed to touch up greying roots and dark regrowth, MUAs are using the waterproof powder to create bold catwalk inspired brows… and now you can too!

FACE TIME

Add a glow to cold weather complexions with Dirty Works Touch & Glow Radiance Cream (£7/50ml). Containing moisturising argan, aloe vera, almond oil and vitamin E, this balm gives an instant moisture hit and ensures skin is left hydrated all day long 60 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

Create the L.A. brow look with Smashbox Brow Tech Matte Pencil, Gloss Stick and Highlight Stick (£16.50 each). Mix and match in endless combinations to add volume, shimmer and sheen

BEAUTY EDITOR’S CHOICE


Autumn

BRUSH WITH GREATNESS

BEST BUY

diego dalla palma professional makeup brushes have been developed by professional makeup artists for everyday use to help achieve flawless results with easy application. Prices range from £19.50 to £31.50

Fragrance Picks

Trussardi My Scent Eau de Toilette (£54/50ml) is a crisp, floral musk with notes of pear, lilac and rose

Narciso for Her l’Absolu Eau de Parfum (£62/50ml) is musky with key notes of jasmine, amber, sandalwood and patchouli

Sweet, fruity and a little bit cheeky, Ghost Girl (£34/50ml) is great for girls who want to express their feisty edge

EVERYTHING IS ROSIE

FLASH DANCE

Beyoncé wearing metallic tattoos

Milani Rose Blush (£8) really does have flower power! The super soft powder creates a natural looking finish and is ideal for shaping, contouring and highlighting cheeks

She was papped all summer wearing them, now Beyoncé has her own collection of metallic tattoos. The Beyoncé Collection from Flash Tattoos feature five sheets of henna-inspired and beehive motifs designed by Beyoncé and Flash Tattoos founder Miranda Burnet

DARK MATTER

3

Unleash your dark side with goth inspired beauty 1. MAC Fluidline Eyeliner Gel in Macro Violet (£13.50) 2. Noirberry Nail Lacquer by Nailberry (£14.50) 3. La Splash Lip Couture in Vampire (£8) 4. Clinique Almost Lipstick in Black Honey (£18)

2

4 THE EYES HAVE IT

Ole Henriksen Ultimate Lift Eye Crème (£36) helps restore firmness and diminish the appearance of lines and wrinkles around the eyes O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 61

FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

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Cosmetics Radar

BEAUTY

START UPS

Following in the footsteps of MAC Cosmetics, Bobbi Brown and NARS – that started off as small brands and are today global enterprises – we highlight fledgling cosmetics brands for women of colour on their journey to the top

Just over a year.

WHAT PRODUCTS ARE INCLUDED IN YOUR RANGE?

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN BUSINESS?

C.A.K.E offer a wide range of cosmetics for women of colour. We stock foundations, eyeshadows, lipstick and blusher.

I’ve been running EbonyPink for four years now. It started in my son’s bedroom and we opened our salon in The Ilford Exchange on Valentines Day, this year.

I believe there is a perception of beauty that is not represented within the UK. I wanted EbonyPink to help bring forth

Make-up can give an individual so much confidence and is fun to play with. Whether you want to feel more glamorous or natural, cosmetics can transform you into what you want to be.

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN BUSINESS?

that representation, one that every woman can relate to.

BRAND: EbonyPink NAME: Clarissa Jordan WHY COSMETICS?

BRAND: C.A.K.E Cosmetics NAME: Stevie Newman WHY COSMETICS?

WHAT’S YOUR BESTSELLER? The Blackberry lipstick and cream foundation in French Fancy.

WHAT PRODUCTS ARE INCLUDED IN YOUR RANGE?

WHERE CAN WE FIND YOU? You can find us online at www.cakecosmetics.co.uk

Our range currently comprises of foundations, primers, concealers, blushes, glosses and lipsticks. We have an even larger range including skincare that we will introduce as the brand grows.

C.A.K.E Foundation, £13

WHAT’S YOUR BESTSELLER?

Definitely our lipsticks, due to the vast range of colours and our pocket-friendly prices.

WHERE CAN WE FIND YOU?

We are based in The Exchange, Ilford Shopping Centre. Our products are available to order in-store and online at www.ebonypinkltd.com Lipstick, £8.99 Foundation, £15.99

INSTALOVE #EBONYPINK

62 BB & H O C TO B E R / N OV E M B E R 2 01 5

C.A.K.E Cosmetics moodboard


the market is where the world of ColourChase Cosmetics was birthed.

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN BUSINESS?

We launched May 2014, so we have just gone past our one year anniversary, and what a wonderful year it has been. From featuring in Vogue, Elle, and GQ to having a pop up shop in Camden, we are thankful for the positive response we have received from all arenas.

BRAND: ColourChase Cosmetics NAME: Angel Jensina WHY COSMETICS?

My love for cosmetics has been deep rooted since my teen years. I was always interested in trying different skin care products, different make-up looks, and above all, exploring the use of colour and the ways I could express myself through its use. After being a self-taught make-up artist for a while, I became increasingly frustrated at the lack of colour there was available on the market. The frustration mixed with passion and desire to fill a gap in

WHAT PRODUCTS ARE INCLUDED IN THE RANGE?

SOCIALITE BLAC CHYNA IS A FAN OF THE BRAND’S BLOSSOM LIPSTICK

INSTALOVE #COLOURCHASE sales when Blac Chyna, endorsed the peachy pink shade on social media. ‘Divine’ which is a beautiful purple shade, and ‘Pearl’ which is a snowwhite colour, follow closely behind.

WHERE CAN WE FIND YOU?

All products can be found via our online store www.colourchase.com

Semi-Matte Lipstick, £12

The range currently consists of 12 shades of semi matte lipsticks and 18 shades of ultra rich pigments. Pigments are the most concentrated form of coloured cosmetics you can get, making them ideal for many uses including as an eyeshadow, body paint, mixed with a lipgloss, or even as colour correction. We are on a mission to teach people how to use pigments - it can change your whole make-up routine!

WHAT’S YOUR BESTSELLER?

The Blossom lipstick skyrocketed in

WHAT PRODUCTS ARE INCLUDED IN YOUR RANGE? Creamy highly pigmented lipsticks.

WHAT’S YOUR BESTSELLER? BRAND: MDMflow NAME: Florence Adepoju WHY COSMETICS?

I did a degree in Cosmetic Science at the London College of Fashion and making lipsticks is far more fun than being stuck in a lab. Bestseller: Milkshake lipstick

The Milkshake lipstick.

WHERE CAN WE FIND YOU? BeautyMART UK and www.MDMflow.com

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN BUSINESS? Seven years but MDMflow has only existed for two years.

Lipstick, £18

O CTO B ER / N OV EM B ER 201 5 BB & H 63


Beauty

CUT CREASE EYES

Seen all over social media, MUA Joy Adenuga shows how to replicate the dramatic eye trend

Prep the lids with Mac Paint Pot in Painterly (£16). This will hold the eyeshadow for longer

Apply glitter glue all over the lid and pat on your choice of glitter

Create crease definition using MAC in Swiss Chocolate eyeshadow (£10) and blend out

Use a black kohl pencil, draw a line over the top of the glitter from inner lid to outer lid and blend

Finish off with a liner, strip lashes and viola!

THE ART OF SKIN CORRECTING Joy shares her hero products for covering spot prone skin Using a beauty blender brush, apply Bobbi Brown Stick Foundation (£29.50) all over the face Set with MAC Translucent Powder (£20.50)

What is it? The Cut Crease is an eye makeup technique in which the crease is ‘cut’ sharply with a contrasting eyeshadow. The result is a really dramatic and defined eyelid that is usually finished with a striking sharp liner 64 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

For extra coverage, apply MAC Studio Fix Concealer (£15.50) to any visible blemish

Using a small concealer brush, pat on MAC Orange Corrector (£23) on just the black spots on the face

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD BARR, WWW.RICHBARRPHOTO.COM MAKE-UP BY JOY ADENUGA, WWW.BRIDESBYJOY.COM. MODEL: WINFRED VUMBA. FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

Apply Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation. Primer (£25.50)


Style shown: Bare&Natural Natural Wavy. © 2015 Feme Ltd.

Seal it! FREE YOUR PARTING WITH 3 BRAZILIAN TOP PIECES

Dare to go Bare? Quality Virgin Remi Hair combined with today’s most covetable textures, and affordable to boot. Try Sensationnel’s superb Bare & Natural range, beautiful bundles in Malaysian, Peruvian and Brazilian curl patterns. Polish off your Brazilian style with a selection of complementary top pieces for head turning root to tip transformation.

To find out more go to www.feme.com EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY FEME LTD. +44 (0)20 8254 3600 - SALES@FEME.COM


Wise Buys

COPY THAT LOOK

Kerry Washington shows how casual-chic is done by teaming metallic stripes with black basics

Next Make Me Beautiful Party Pink Lipstick, £8

Autograph Gel Effect Nail Colour in Stone, £6

M&Co Roll Neck Jumper, £18

Moda in Pelle Deadly Courts, £65.95

Oliver Bonas Everglades Stripe Skirt, £39.50

66 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

WORDS BY CHRISTY. FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

New Look Textured Box Clutch, £15.99


Celebrates 50 years of beautiful hair

1

#

Hair Polishers Worldwide Special Edition 8 oz 100% More Free!

THE ORIGINAL HAIR POLISHERS

Thank you for 50beautiful years Fantasia Industries Corporation | fantasiahaircare.com | 201.261.7070 | Available at Fine Beauty Supply Stores & Major Retailers


Beauty Focus

Marshmallow pinks and pretty purples make a soft and appealing beauty look

68 BB & H O CTO B ER / N OVEM B ER 201 5


BRILLIANTLY BRONZED

Luminous skin always comes top of the agenda when building any makeup look. To get off to a flying start, apply Nars All Day Luminous Weightless Foundation in Syracuse (£33) on the face including the eyelids and lips in order to create a clean canvas. For soft shading use Nars Casino Bronzing Powder (£27.50) to create a light reflecting glow and more defined contour that remains natural looking with subtle shimmer

loves BBH

ETHEREAL EYES

A blend of pastels has a way of focusing attention to the eyes in a way that is both playful and sexy. To master this palette, use Nars Shimmer Eyeshadows in Cyprus (£18) and then layer with Nars Bouthan Duo Eyeshadows (£25) using bright pink. Use a wet brush blending outwards and under, then use a lighter soft pink as a highlighter in the inner corners of the eyes and under the lower lashes. To give the eyes more definition, apply two layers of Nars Longer Than Life Lengthening Mascara on top and bottom lashes

NATURAL NUDES

New season lips are naturally nude with an essence like shimmer that’s barely-there. To finish the look use Nars Larger Than Life Lipgloss in Spring Break (£19) to add a bit of drama with its high shine. Another element to creating a natural nude canvas is using concealer. Nars Concealer in Ginger (£22) instantly removes fine lines without being heavy and getting into the creases. To set the foundation dust a bit of Nars All Day Luminous Powder in Tahoe (£32).

O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 69


TREND SPECIAL

WHAT’S TRENDING Turn over for the latest hair, beauty and fashion must-haves for the Autumn/Winter ter

O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 71


TREND SPECIAL

HAIR TRENDS The hottest looks straight off the catwalk

BaByliss PRO ItaliaBRAVA Hairdryer (£120) PRO Titanium Expression 25mm Curling Tong ong (£50)

TEXTURE TURE

s seen at Mi Textured hair was Missoni where Paul Hanlon for MoroccanOil created an Eighties inspired hairstyle that felt organic and sculptural. Loose waves were the look at Burberry. James Pecis created 24 inches of beautiful textured hair for each model at Simone Rocha, using the BaByliss PRO ItaliaBRAVA Hairdryer and PRO Titanium Expression 25mm Curling Tong.

Simone Rocha Simone Rocha

72 BB & H O CTO B ER / N OV EM B ER 201 5

Simone Rocha

MISSONI FALL / WINTER 2015 COLLECTION. HAIR BY PAUL HANLON FOR MOROCCANOIL. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARLOS MANUEL GASPAROTTO FOR MOROCCANOIL

Missoni


SIDE AND CENTRE PARTINGS

Mazuri Edge Wax £3.49

Sam McKnight styled models’ hair in slick ponytails with gelled, side-parted fringes at Chanel. There were slick side ponies at Donna Karan, and elsewhere, the look was softened with slight waves.

Givenchy

Vera Wang

BABY HAIRS

Baby hairs are a now a trend – again! Blame FKA Twigs. They showed up intricately coiled and sleek at Givenchy, while at Vera Wang and Stella McCartney the look was damp, sporty strands around the models’ faces.

Emilio Pucci Singer FKA Twigs

Petals of Gold Hair Comb by Glitzy Secrets (£26)

Prada

Diana Gemstone Bobby Pins by Rock N Rose (£14)

Mark and Estel

American Dream Ponytail (£29.50)

Alberta Ferretti

MAC COSMETICS

HAIR CLIPS

Prada models showed off doll-like femininity at the Milan Fashion Week Show, with models with bouncy, high wrap ponytails accessorized with fancy hair clips. Get the look with ponytail extensions. Prada

O CTO B E R / N OV E M B E R 2 01 5 B B & H 73


TREND SPECIAL CURLS & WAVES

For Autumn/Winter 15, the catwalks were awash with 1970’s inspired hair. Think Grace Coddington dancing at Studio 54. ‘This look is very high fashion,’ says Michele Scott-Lynch, the founder of curly haircare company Bouclème. ‘So you can achieve this really extreme look or just be inspired. Backcombing played a big part at London Fashion Week, and to achieve the right look, you need to make sure your hair is in really good condition. Embracing your curls and waves is now the ultimate fashion statement for the winter months.’

Desigual

Desigual

Georgine

Duyos

Zac Posen

1

2

3

1. Curl Cleanser (£15/300ml) 2. Curl Conditioner (£17/300ml 3. Curl Defining Gel (£15/300ml)

Mongol

SIDE ACTION

There were slick side ponies at Donna Karan, while over at Christian Dior Guido Palau slicked hair into neat, sleek side plaits, lengthened with hair extensions. At Monique Lhuillier Recine created an assymetric ponytail by leaving out the front section and pulling the remaining hair into a ponytail, using Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray to finish.

Roberto Verino

Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray (£17.25) Monique Lhuillier

74 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

FOR STOCKISTS SEE PGE 146

FRINGES

Face framing fringes were seen on some of the A/W 15 models at Desigual and Roberto Veri, While Naomi Campbell shone on the Zac Posen runway with her trademark fringed style.


CURLY HAIR NEEDS MOISTURE! Hydrate , Moisturize, Revitalize and Define Your Curls with Taliah Waajid Products.

NEW

NEW

PERFECT FOR NATURALLY CURLY, WAVY & COILY HAIR Taliah Waajid formulated the ‘Curls, Waves and Naturals’ family of products for all natural hair textures. CWN products are made with natural ingredients that nourish, strengthen, and moisturize... perfect for all natural hair styles!

For more information about Taliah Waajid’s entire lineup of products, please visit www.naturalhair.org. #taliahwaajid

Available at your local beauty shop.

Learn How-to Use Taliah Waajid Products


TREND SPECIAL

BEAUTY TREND REPORT Autumn/Winter 2015

THE TREND

1

FLOATING BLACK LINER Graphic eye lines, lower liner, oversized liner — make-up artists had a ball with eyeliners for this season. Bambi eyes took on a new form at Rochas in Paris where make-up artists graphically painted the models’ upper and lower eyelids with floating black liner. While for the Jean-Pierre Braganza show, MAC make-up artists created cat flicks sandwiched between top and bottom brow lines.

Jean-Pierre Braganza

3

4 2

1

BareMinerals Lasting Line Long-Wearing Eyeliner, £14

2

NARS Black Moon Eyeliner Pencil, £16.50

3

GOSH Smokey Eyeliner in Black, £5.99

4

MAC Kohl Power Eye Pencil in Feline, £14

THE TREND

WOW BROWS

The eyebrows still have it, but they played a support act to eyes or highlights on the skin. At Missoni, they emphasised brows with a strong, arched line drawn through them in black. François Nars said the beauty look he created at Marc Jacobs, was all about matte skin and a defined brow bringing, ‘a nice structure to the face.’ Also subtle skin highlights such as glossy eyelids balanced the ‘masculine brows’. 1

GOSH Defining Brow Gel, £4.99 2

2 1

Bobbi Brown Perfectly

Defined Long-WearBrow Pencil, £29.50 3 4 Christian Puglisi

76 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

3

Kiki Eyebrow Wax, £5.90

Cargo Cosmetics Eyebrow Pencil in Dark, £15

4


THE TREND

BABY DOLL EYES MASCARA

Make-up artists often shun mascara in favour of the stark look that bare lashes can bring. However this season it was back in a big way, with layer upon layer of mascara creating wide-eyed doll-like looks at Giambattista Valli, Nina Ricci, Blumarine and Alberta Ferretti. 1 Sleek Lethal Length Mascara, £7

4

2 Jane Iredale Longest Lash Mascara, £26 3 MDMflow Greater Than Mascara, £21

1

3

4 Benefit Roller Lash, £19.50

2

Giambattista Valli

THE TREND

FLAWLESS SKIN

Glowing fresh dewy skin is a beautiful trend that is always popular on the catwalks. There were lights and reflection on the skin at Blumarine contrasting with a matte, nude lip. The key to the AW15 trend is keeping the dewiness in the centre of the face and pairing with creamy, blushy cheeks as seen at Donna Karan, Prada and Lemaire. 1 Charlotte Tilbury Bar of Gold, £32

2

MAC Cosmetics for Lemaire

2 Sleek Barekissed Illuminator, £9.99

3

1

4

3 NARS Laguna Illuminator, £23 4 Smashbox Liquid Halo HD Foundation, £27.50

3

THE TREND

NEW LIPS

Stephen Burrows

1

Illamasqua Lipstick in Shard, £19.50,

2

Stila Lip Glaze in Black Cherry, £15

3

MAC Lipstick in D for Danger, £15.50

2 1

FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

There was hardly a red lip to be found on catwalks, with make-up artists preferring deep rich berry hues, pale pinks and warm blush tones. Good old-fashioned lipgloss made a comeback at Rag & Bone, Rodarte, Fendi and Roland Mouret. Our backstage beauty insider reports that MUAs were using their fingers to apply gloss so the shine was not overpowering, and the end result was a light shimmer.

OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5 BB&H 77


TREND SPECIAL

BACK TO THE Graphic prints and a whole lot of shoulders - Eighties girls definitely have more fun!

House of Fraser SportMax Code Stitched floral Sweatshirt, £135

House of Fraser Label Lab Metallic Clutch, £25.99

t a n e e Atsmsotiv show Lei

Topshop Jacket, £75

H&M Jeans, £19.99

AX Paris Sequin Covered Shoulder Pad Bodycon, £24.99

Miss Selfridge Triangle Earrings with Diamante Stone, £6.50

78 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

Very Stud Back Colourblock Court Shoes, £30

New Look Skirt, £24.99

FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

New Look Tan Oval Belt, £9.99


HAIR PRODUCTS

Olive Oil

Find us at:

ONLINE AT PAKS.CO.UK/MAZURI AND HAIR SHOPS ACROSS THE UK

Mazuri.co.uk


TREND SPECIAL

SMOKE & MIRRORS The artistic team at Jam Deluxe experiment with some of the more extreme beauty trends out now

WET SMOKEY EYES Gleaming charcoal lids take on a rock chick vibe. Don’t make things too perfect because the gleam will make the eyeshadows blend and smudge without much doing

DOUBLE EYEBROWS

NUDE LIPS

Sometimes nude lips looks daytime casual, but to take it into the evening, dramatise it with a hint of sheen so it’s not matte and pasty. For fear of looking washed out, add a touch of colour like peach or pink

80 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

NAKED BROW

Erased eyebrows are very fashion-forward, and if you’re willing to take the plunge bear in mind it’s all or nothing (no pun intended). Start with a matching skin colour concealer and brush the hairs out for a statement look

BARE-FACED

Bare-faced beauty is all about looking like you’re letting your natural skin shine through. The elements are soft contouring, neutral tones and a warm glow that resembles your natural complexion

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAYSAM AT JAM DELUXE, WWW.JAMDELUXE.COM HAIR BY MICHAEL SZOSTEK AT JAM DELUXE. MAKE-UP BY NADINE REID, WWW.NADINEREID.COM. MODEL: LILIAN OF FAME PERFECT

Trending now New nude

We’ve seen double winged eyeliner trend, now say hello to the double eyebrow. The statement line mirrors your own brow shape and works a treat with bold evening make-up


TREND SPECIAL W h y n o t l e t y o u r A U T U M N l i p p y d o a l l t h e t a l k i n g ? H e r e a r e s o m e o f o u r F A V E S t o e a s e u s i n t o a N E W S E A S O N

For A/W15 lips think dark purples, rich reds and deep nudes

1

1

Benecos Natural Cosmetics Natural Lipstick in Toffee, £6.95

2

Marks & Spencer Autograph Matte Velvet Lip Colour in Plum, £10

3

Sleek True Colour Mystic, £4.99

4

MAC lipstick in Hang-up, £15

Roberto Torretta

3 82 BB & H O CTO B E R / N OV E M B E R 2 01 5

5

Iconic London Valentina, £12

Georgine

2

4

Monique Lhuillier

Walter Mendez

5 CATWALK IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK. FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

Naeem Khan


WWW.MAKEOVERUK.CO.UK FOR SALES ENQUIRIES EMAIL MAKEOVERUK@GMAIL.COM OR CALL 07956 660 969


TREND SPECIAL

SHORT

VERSION 1

Short and simple has the makings for highpowered style. Starting with a fresh-out-thesalon cut, work in a small amount of edge control to flatten the sides and mould the quiff into shape. For midweek touch ups, get hold of an Edgestick styler to smooth the roots

2

Try the reverse ombré by starting with warm copper roots that fade into dark brown ends. The results are a chameleon coif that can look dark when styled with gel and lighter when less product is used

3

Shorter locks won’t take the fun out of styling. Get creative with edgy spikes that look loose and carefree, and detailed waves that sit neatly on the side. Remember to keep on top of heat protection and glossy finishes

1 CASUAL CHIC

2 URBAN COOL 3 UPTOWN FUNK

84 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SEYE ISIKALU. HAIR, MAKE-UP AND STYLING BY SHADE OLONIYO AT JOSH HAIR & BEAUTY, 95 CHURCH STREET, CROYDON, SURREY CR0. TEL: 020 8686 6535. MODEL: CHRISTINE

Josh Hair & Beauty show how short hair can get in on the hottest season’s trends


   

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TREND SPECIAL

Sakara

Soraya de Piedade

Van Else

AFWL 2015

Mary Martin London

Mary Martin London

SHOW HIGHLIGHTS GHTS African Fashion Week London returned in all its printed glory to Kensington Olympia this August. Fashion fans were treated to theatrical shows laden with colour, patterns, luxe fabrics and contemporary design. African beats thumbed through the venue as the dancers put on a spectacular performance and the live PAs were just an added bonus to a show that had it all. The trend highlights were mixed fabrics, animal prints and decorative A-line dresses. On the beauty side, Fashion Fair made candy cherry and deep berry lips a focal point.

Tumiila

Tumiila

Victoria Grace

Zandy B

Soraya de Piedade

O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 87


TREND SPECIAL

BBH had VIP access backstage and amongst the buzz we managed to grab a quiet moment with the art director, Allan Henry, who lead the extraordinary hair team

r u o d a p m o p r Powe

Motions Oil Sheen and Conditioning Spray (£3.99) gives the hair that enviable catwalk shine

BACKSTAGE @ #AFWL15

Cwoaolves

88 BB &H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

The trends we see today, are they for all hair types? Every model has the same look and they are all from the African diaspora. Working with Motions I have found that the products cross ss over to different hair types too. What’s your favourite Motions styling product? The Spritz gives a very good firm hold so when you do something in the morning you know the hair will be exactly the same by the end of the day. Motions Light Hold Working Spritz (£3.49)

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MONIKA SCHAILBLE AND GEORGES ALEXANDRE

Leading hair care brand Motions were the official hair sponsors of Africa Fashion Week London and dedicated a team of hairstylists working backstage creating the catwalk looks for the show. In total they worked with 25 models, across five different shows for 15 designers. Textured pompadours and rock n’ roll twists were worn on Friday, whilst on Saturday soft waves and malleable textures were the order of the day.

What was the brief for this year’s show? Well I got a storyboard from the African fashion stylists that pointed to the ideas and kind of hairstyles they wanted to compliment their clothes. There are two looks, one for each day, and once I have seen the storyboard, I can say ‘we can take this to this level’ or ‘water it down’.


TREND SPECIAL

DO YOU FOLLOW TRENDS?

We took to the streets to find out your answers

I follow trends a little though I try to make my own style and get my inspiration from my family – I have three sisters!” Dimitri River Island shirt, Levis jeans from TK Maxx, Hat from Camden, Nike Huarache trainers

‘I dress in what makes me feel comfortable and is figure flattering. I mainly wear dark colours even in the summertime! I don’t look to people for fashion or style inspiration.’ Nicholette H&M jumper, Topshop trousers, Dr Martin boots

‘I have my own style which is a bit androgynous. I get my inspiration from Rihanna, Balmain and other designers.’ Tara Boohoo dress, H&M jacket

‘I occasionally follow trends, but I always customise them to suit me.’ Nadine Forever 21 jacket, TopShop denim skirt, shoes and bag, top from Camden

90 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

‘I sometimes follow trends when it suits me but I don’t stick to it. My style inspiration comes from all over, little bits from everywhere.’ Sam Nike Roshe trainers, Nike joggers, Penfield jacket

WORDS BY CHRISTY

I follow loads of trends. I get my inspiration from Instagram, my mum and my cousin who are all very stylish.” Chae Jacket from TK Maxx, Topshop jeans, bag and accessories from New Look


          

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TREND SPECIAL

THE HOTTEST NATURAL STYLES

OUT NOW Fumi Smith predicts the curls, cuts and colours set to take natural hair by storm

Salon Revolution

SIDE PART AFRO

Hair Lounge

The afro first became popular when the effects of the African-American civil rights movement brought a renewed sense of identity to the black community and encouraged them to once again feel pride in their culture. The appearance of the Afro on the catwalk in 2015 represents a celebration of Afro tradition in fashion. The modern take is to break the shape with deep side part, emphasising the volume and distinct cut.

CAREFREE CURLS Messy curls that are tousled and teased out will make the perfect easy winter style, but it will take a bit of style nous. Form curls with flexy rods or rollers to create big, loose curls before teasing into shape with fingers to achieve a beautiful natural style. To avoid heat entirely, natural texture can also be softened and defined simply by applying a good quality leave-in conditioner overnight.

First Class salon

Hype Coiffure

BUNDLED HIGH UPDO Piling your natural tresses high into an updo not only looks uber stylish but is great for protecting hair during the colder months. For inspiration turn to US celebs like Janelle Monae and Solange Knowles. Award-winning stylist, Charlotte Mensah, suggests adorning the hair with accessories like silver rings and brooches, plus we’re loving the single loc on Hype Coffiure’s model pictured above.

Vernon François at The Smiths

O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 93


TREND SPECIAL

New York Hair Design

Afrotherapy

BRAIDED MOHAWK One of the great pros about natural afro hair is its ability to easily mould into shape, and thus, impersonate styles that would otherwise take a great deal of time or commitment to pull off. Canerow edges that impersonate dramatic styles like Mohawks or shaved sides are in vogue. Alternatively, slick down natural hair and smooth into a high bun (hair can be added if you want to create a fuller bun) for a full-on style statement.

CRAZY COLOUR A great way to make a statement with your natural hair is to add a bold block colour. Natural hairstylist Frédéric Lonceny says ‘The key to colouring natural hair is to have a strict moisturising schedule. Overnight treatments and deep conditioning masks are essential in making sure hair isn’t damaged after colouring, and these must be used on a weekly basis.’ Coppers, purples and blues are great hues to brighten winter hair and colour designs will be popular by the spring.

Anne Veck

Josh Hair & Beauty

What the industry experts say ‘This year natural hair has evolved to be more versatile and wearable and this is determined by women’s lifestyle and style desires. The staple styles are twist outs, coils, bantu knots but to add to this is a diverse menu of big luscious curls, updos and chemical-free smoothing and strengthening kits are now in to create a variety of curl patterns.’ Sharon Thompson, International Marketing Manager for McBride Research Labs, makers of Design Essentials Natural

94 BB &H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

Ledisi Look Book

Design Essentials Natural recently partnered with Grammy-nominated singer Ledisi to showcase her beauty in versatile, creative locced styles. ‘I’ve been expressing my joy about DE,’ says the iconic singer who wears her waist-length multi-coloured locs in a succession of glam styles. The new Ledisi Look Book from Design Essentials Natural, features gorgeous visuals highlighting the beauty of Ledisi's natural hair and shot by celebrity photographer Allen Cooley. Equipped with tips and advice from Ledisi's longtime stylist, Michelle London, each look includes detailed instructions for how to achieve the style and product recommendations to get the look. ‘As loc styling becomes more mainstream, we consistently get questions about how to style and maintain locs using our products,’ says Taydra Mitchell-Jackson, Vice President of Marketing for Design Essentials. ‘We are excited to partner with Ledisi to provide an authentic resource for her fans and Design Essentials lovers that gives them insights into our best product and tips for all loc wearers.’ Take a look at the free ebook at on our website, www.blackbeautyandhair.com


jansonwholesale.com

19 Mitcham Industrial Estate | Streatham Road | Surrey CR4 2AP | +44 (0) 208 648 3418 | sales@jansonwholesale.com


TREND SPECIAL

3

NEW HAIRCUTS TO TRY TODAY BLUNT BANG Save on length and go for a fringe. Right now, blunt fringes are having a major moment. The look has no layers or feathering and is cut straight across

Salon Revolution Hype Coiffure

EDGY PIXIE

Atherton Cox

Edgy just got edgier! And when it comes to the adorable pixie cut, it’s had a badass makeover with shaved sides, spikes and tons of texture

Hype Coiffure

Hype Coiffure

Josh Hair & Beauty

RUFFLED MIDI

Hair Lounge

Perfectly smooth angled bobs are so last season! Taking its placed are wind blown tresses that effortlessly frame the face or peak out of your favourite beanie

96 BB&H OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5

Hype Coiffure

Salon Revolution


Atherton Cox

IF YOU’RE FEELING BOLD, WHY NOT INCORPORATE ALL THREE CUTS!

OCTOBER /NOVEMBER 201 5 BB &H 97


TREND SPECIAL

ORANGE IS THE NEW BLACK Winner of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final 2015 Mizani Afro Catwalk Award, Patrick Matthews from Simon Webster unveils his champion colour in a stunning shoot

Style @ home

What products do we need to stock up on to replicate this look? I used all Mizani products for the look because they were perfect for both the hair type and for achieving such a sleek

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98 BB & H O CTO B ER / N OV EM B ER 201 5

style. I cleansed the model’s hair with Mizani Thermasmooth Shampoo and Conditioner, then applied the Thermastrength Heat Protecting Serum before drying and finishing the look with Mizani Gloss Veil Shine Spray for a well-conditioned sheen. And any style tips? The work for this style is all in the cut and colour, so if you have the right foundations and are using the right products, then it should be easy to recreate. The key is to use the right products, in this case Mizani, and to blow-dry the hair in sections, paying attention to the natural movement of the hair so that you’re working with it, not against it. I used a round brush for the blow-dry to create the smooth contours and to help build the shape into the style.

2 1. Thermasmooth Shampoo and Conditioner (each £13.55/250ml)

3

2. Thermastrength Heat Protecting Serum (£11.25/148ml) 3. Gloss Veil Shine Spray (£13.80/250ml)

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNI HARE. HAIR BY PATRICK MATTHEWS AT SIMON WEBSTER HAIR, 16 GARDNER STREET, BRIGHTON BN1. TEL: 01273 605 577. MAKE-UP BY LAN NGUYEN-GREALIS. STYLING BY PATRICK MATTHEWS

What was the idea behind your colour choice? I wanted to create a really strong Nineties-inspired look, with influences from the Nineties R’n’B and hip-hop scene with artists like Lisa ‘Left-Eye’ Lopez and Mary J Blige. Colour-wise it was about strong colour placement contrasting dark to light, creating a flawless shine-band. For the cut I kept the shape quite classic and elegant, but added a bit of street-style with the clipper-work and undercut to give it an edge.


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Naturalistas

TREND WATCH

High top

fade

Korell Williams from Creer Hair Styling explains how to give the retro cut an edgy, feminine spin

What would you recommend for customising this look? High-end barbering skills come into play. Keep the sides low and work in a pattern or statement line. A soft twist out on top will make it funky and ultra feminine too. Any maintenance tips? Have the sides cut down regularly to keep it neat and to refresh the waves, loosely braid the top at night, working in a bit of shea butter.

10 0 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RENE CONNAGE-DURANT. HAIR BY CREER HAIR STYLING AT THE KIERAN GROUP, 30 CRAWFORD STREET, MARYLEBONE, LONDON W1H 1PL. TEL: 020 7723 0119. MAKE-UP BY YEWANDE QUADRI

What makes this style stand out? This is a really distinctive look based on contrasting elements that work really well together. There’s the low shaved sides set against the long hair on top and soft waves paired with a razor sharp line, giving it a fresh take on the classic high top fade.


Naturalistas

2 1

Four braided styles to be seen in! By Sensationnel African Collection

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3 4 STYLE TIP

Gone are the days of sealing tips by burning it. Instead, use hot water for a stylish finish

STYLE TIP

Use an afro pik to gently loosen tangles, redefine curls and refresh the shape

1

JUMBO BRAIDS

Last seen in the Nineties, box braids or twists are back by popular demand. Its defined by the distinct parting at the top of the head that makes a artful box shape and the root to tip thickness which stays the same all the way down the length.

2

CANEROWED UPDO

Canerows crafted into an elegant updo exude femininity. Start the plait with your own hair and use a light amount of pomade to smooth in flyaways. Add extensions a quarter of the way to thicken the braid and for extra length that will come in handy when styling the updo.

3

MARLEY TWISTS

If you want braids with a difference then this look is for you! Marley twists, which were a big summer hit and continue to trend, offer wonderful strand thickness and superior length like no other. Go the extra yard by working in a colour of your choice.

4

AFRO KINKY

This texture is going down a storm with naturalistas and the only way to wear it is loud and proud. The pick n’ drop method, which is used here, is more versatile than a wig as you can switch partings so the hair can free-fall and have natural movement.

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Naturalistas

FLASHY BRAIDS Protective styling can make the best hair dos. Not only are your tresses tenderly tucked away but you can experiment with designer canerows and super-sized quiffs and buns. Canerow one side away from the face and shape the rest of hair into a poofy twist, incorporating twists and loose plaits. Sweep the hair back and wrap round into a larger than life chignon

weekend! SOMETHING

FOR THE

For the perfect going out accessory, Dionne Smith whips up these party-ready natural hairstyles

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STYLE SWAP

Looking for a new hairstyle that doesn’t require a complete overhaul? Create an on-trend Mohawk by simply pinning up the sides

DELUXE SPIRALS Freshen up your ‘fro with super soft spirals that form a sassy and carefree halo. To get this texture, set freshly washed hair on rods and allow to air dry for as long as possible. Finish by sitting under a hooded dryer for 15 to 20 minutes and gently unravel. Spray on oil sheen for a boost of shine

SHOW THE STYLIST

MAKE IT LAST

Make your natural style last as long as possible with a few must-follow tips Scarf savvy It’s an oldie but goodie but always remember to tie your hair at night with a silk or satin scarf to retain moisture and to keep your style perfectly in place

MIGHTY CHIGNON Buns make a great day-to-day hairstyle but can be transformed into a gorgeous going out look. Make a statement with this haute chignon that emanates style and sophistication. Apply smoothing products to damp hair and blow it out with an afro pik. Use a bristle brush to smooth the hair up into a ponytail, then fold sections over and pin into place to create a pretty silhouette. Finish by spraying on medium hold hairspray so it stays neat and fresh

Scalp care To guarantee that your hair looks its best on the night, always oil your scalp to prevent dryness and breakage at the hairline Product watch Just because you want your style to last there’s no need to go overboard with the products. Limit the amount used and remember a little goes a long way

O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 105

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARCELLE ADRIANNA. HAIR BY DIONNE SMITH. MAKE-UP BY OTS BEAUTY. STYLING BY ELIZABETH AJOMALE

VIEW FROM THE BACK


Naturalistas

NATURAL HAIR & BALAYAGE

This issue top stylist Charlotte Mensah from Hair Lounge gives our reader the colour of her dreams

NAME: Zakia AGE: 22 OCCUPATION: Student THE PROBLEM: ‘I have such a hard time managing my hair, so it would be great to find a style that’s easy for me to do everyday before lessons. I’m happy to have a change of colour but I don’t want to lose too much length in the process.’

‘Zakia is a really interesting young lady and she has beautiful hair,’ says Charlotte. ‘I suggest we go for the balayage technique to incorporate some terracotta tones through the mid-length and ends. I will restyle her hair by cutting it in layers to create more volume.’

STYLE TIME COLOUR TIME

1

To stabilise the colour and to give Zakia’s hair extra protection, Charlotte pre-treated it using the Hair Lounge Shea Butter & Essential Oil Masque. Charlotte then carefully bleached the hair using the balayage hand painted technique and left it on for twenty minutes to lift the shade up two levels

2

The bleach was rinsed off and after a moisturising wash a semipermanent mix of orange and red tones were masterfully applied to the mid-length and ends 10 6 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

3

1. Zakia’s ends were tidied up with a layered cut that created more volume and preserved her length 2. Next, her hair was divided into eight sections. Each bit was combed out and twisted loosely to stretch the curl and to prevent any possible tangles from forming 3. Finally, Charlotte sectioned her hair and applied a generous amount of Mizani True Textures Moisture Stretch (£12.45) to loosen the curl and make blowdrying easier


‘THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I WANTED. THANK YOU!’

TIPS 1

Visit the salon for follow up moisturising and protein treatments.

2

Trim hair regularly to maintain the shape and thickness.

3

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SOPHIE. HAIR BY CHARLOTTE MENSAH AT HAIR LOUNGE, 347 PORTOBELLO ROAD, LONDON W10. TEL: 020 8969 9444. MAKE-UP BY NEUSA NEVES. STYLING BY CHARLOTTE MENSAH

Semi permanents last longer when applied after the conditioning treatment.

WHAT IS BALAYAGE?

Balayage is a French colouring technique that was developed in the Seventies. It’s a freehand technique where the colour is applied by hand rather than using the traditional foiling or cap highlighting techniques. As Charlotte has demonstrated, Balayage can be used in even the shortest pixie crop however it is popularly used in hair below the shoulders.

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Naturalistas

Triplets, Bike, Fola and Labi not only share the same birthday, but also a love of travelling, the theatre and dining out. But with little time to spare due to work, studying and family commitments, they needed a little help experimenting with different styling ideas for their 4C tresses. You Be Natural’s Team Texture took up the challenge to give them some new looks using the newly launched range.

4C HAIR RESTYLE

Luster’s You Be Natural styling team give our lucky triplet readers a brand new look

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HOW TO LOOK AFTER 4C HAIR

WASHING – Before shampooing, ensure 4C hair is detangled using a mixture of conditioner and water. Cleaning the hair with a hydrating shampoo thats works into a rich lather will make the hair soft, while a good conditioner makes it more supple and manageable. After rinsing, towel blot the hair and apply either a defizzing crème or serum to seal and lock in moisture. Co-washing in between shampooing to rid get of build-up will revive dull looking hair and help to redefine the curls.

BIKE

FOLA

‘My You Be Natural makeover has given me more options for hairstyles other than braids. Using the right haircare products makes such a difference to the condition or your hair. I love how my hair is more manageable and enjoyable to style.’

‘My natural hair texture is very dry and prone to split ends. I noticed that the You Be Natural range instantly made my hair softer. I like the custard and edge control as they’re not too heavy or greasy. I’m definitely inspired to be more adventurous with my natural hair.’

LABI ‘Before my makeover I didn’t have the confidence to wear my hair out so would normally wear single plaits. My hair lacked moisture and was difficult to define, but after using the You Be Natural range it has a lovely sheen and I can’t believe I can actually see my curls!’

You Be Natural is a naturally safe and effective product system designed for every step of your natural hair journey. With a range of products made up of potent oils and special conditioning agents that keep the hair hydrated and pliable. The essential oils impart moisture leaving natural tresses supple and less prone to breakage. Prices start from £3.99 O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 10 9

PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICKY B @ MEDIA IMAGE. HAIR BY THE YOU BE NATURAL’S TEAM TEXTURE. MAKE-UP BY KIM GHANS AND BIANCA SPENCER. STYLED BY WARI GRANVILLE AND SHEVELLE RHULE

STYLING – Using styling products that are suitable for 4C hair types will make all the difference. The You Be Natural Curl Shaper is an ideal styling choice for twists, canerows and bantu knots because of it heavy consistency. Allow hair to dry fully before styling twists out and re-twist at night. Avoid using a comb or fingers as this stretches and loosens the curl pattern. Unruly edges can be tamed with the aid of an edge tamer and a wide-tooth comb should be used to detangle hair, starting from the ends.


Naturalistas

NATURAL HAIR: THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE UGLY Hair blogger Maxine Black shares her experience of being part of a militant natural hair community

‘A

fter impulsively shaving off all my relaxed hair, I found myself in a space wondering how I would work with my natural tresses. Someone mentioned in conversation I should look on YouTube for hair care tips, and on inspection I was surprised to find not only endless amounts of useful hair care tips, but a discovery of this whole natural hair movement, predominantly taking place in the African-American community.

Hair policing What I also sadly discovered in this community was elitism, pockets of self-appointed natural hair police, who felt entitled to berate fellow ethnic females for their hair choices, imposing strict guidelines, which suggested that any hair choice that was not in keeping with their stance would be heavily frowned upon. This entitled group feel it is their position to preach rules and stipulations to the wider natural hair community, informing them what they should and should not do with their natural hair, as well as, the manner they should treat it to meet with their approval. Dyeing or heat straightening your natural hair at any time will be viewed as a cardinal sin, shortly followed by ‘alerts’ that you are not a ‘true’ natural, not a proud enough black person and are letting the side down. I myself have never looked to any community for instructions on how I should put myself together; the community of natural hair police are no different. Sadly there is always a group of judgemental loudmouths ready to endeavour to spoil what should just be beautiful. My journey Rediscovering my natural hair has been a beautiful experience, the word ‘rediscovering’ being the operative word, as I had forgot about my natural hair. I forgot my natural texture of hair was a wearable option. I’ve been natural almost two years now, I loved my relaxed hair and I also love my natural hair. Its been fascinating watching it grow and flourish in all its lively splendour. Personally my natural hair has not made me, as a person, feel any more ethnic or any more proud to be black. So members of the natural hair police would be wrong to see me with my natural hair and think that, just as they would be wrong to think I wasn’t proud to be black or any lesser of a black person when my hair is relaxed. I’m a very proud, confident black woman, regardless of how I choose to wear my hair, who 110 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

has much self-love. That side of me was built and engrained a long time ago. I have found though that there are individuals, who unlike me, have discovered more than the beauty of their natural hair when returning to their natural hair. It’s aligned them with their spiritual essence and gave them a sense of pride; this can only be seen as a beautiful thing. But where it becomes ugly is if those same individuals in turn start judging females in their fellow community, insisting they are not true naturals because their curl pattern is too loose or they dye their hair. I’ve never worn a weave because that’s not my style, but it would be inane of me to inform weave wearers I’m a more of a black person or a better black person because I wear my natural hair. Is

MAXINE’S HAIR JOURNEY

‘THIS ENTITLED GROUP FEEL IT IS THEIR POSITION TO PREACH RULES TO THE WIDER NATURAL HAIR COMMUNITY’

RELAXED HAIR

all of who you are, and all what you stand for, growing out of the top of your head? Perhaps it is, and if that’s the case for you, good, and if that’s not the case for you, good. Find, connect, love and embrace who you are your own individual way. In a positive light What I do love about this movement is that so many ethnic women from all around the world are rediscovering their natural hair for the first time; seeing, loving and appreciating its unique beauty, which is such an empowering image for the younger generation, as hopefully unlike me, they won’t forget that wearing your natural hair texture is an option – a beautiful option. We come from a history where afro hair was not accepted or seen as beautiful, we became products of that history, progressing in a conformist manner. This cycle has continued to a point where we live in a society today where ethnic children find they come up against natural hair challenges in places like ballet schools, we’ve unwittingly aided these challenges because we long conformed to the rules of social acceptance which remained unchallenged. With this movement can come change, more tolerance and more acceptance.

BIG CHOP

Maxine Black twitter.com/MaxineABlack instagram.com/maxineablack

If you’re a natural hair blogger or vlogger and would like to share your hair journey or opinions on this page, email your article, images and social media links to info@blackbeautyandhair.com


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Naturalistas

HD

From a wash & go to the perfect curl set, achieving high definition curls is easier than you think says Lesley Buckle

Roller set by Hair Lounge

F

or many of us it can seem like making our curls, coils and kinks pop is the greatest challenge of all, but creating definition on natural hair and locking it in place is possible. Technique is key and creative director at the Francesco Group Michelle Thompson and hairstylist Errol Douglas MBE, spill the beans on how to prep, style and set the hair for your most defined curls ever. Clean up To create the most definition, start from a clean slate. Michelle Thompson suggests to ‘cleanse, condition and detangle the hair’ prior to styling. Shampooing and conditioning your strands will help remove any product build-up which may be weighing your hair down and preventing your hair from holding a curl. Errol Douglas advises to also ‘pick a shampoo and conditioner for their moisture infusing strengths’, as this will give the hair elasticity making it easier to manipulate into your desired style. Lock in moisture As dry hair can lack definition, keeping your hair moisturised is crucial to getting perfectly formed curls. ‘Preparation when wet and with the right technique and product combination is key to achieving texture and a frizz-free defined finish on natural hair,’ says Errol. Any styling product to create the perfect curls should be added when your hair is still damp. If your hair dries during the styling process, keep a spray bottle filled with water on hand to re-wet dry sections as you go along.

Above: Wash & go by Russell Eaton

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Naturalistas

Make the style hold There are so many product options for keeping your curls in place from gels, to creams and custards. Pick your preferred potion and smooth a little of this onto the strands after moisturising. Michelle suggests to ‘section the hair into four, from the centre front to the centre back and then from ear-to-ear to create four even quarters. Take small subsequent sections and apply [the product] evenly throughout the sections.’ Errol reminds us ‘don’t drench [the hair], the right products don’t need to be over used, their potency can be trusted’. Michelle adds the amount of product for each section should be the size of ‘a five pence piece’. Once the product is applied Errol states to ‘gently twist from back to front and allow the curl to fall, in the direction in which it falls naturally, and simply assist the natural flow by gently defining the curl with a finger twist.’ Michelle Thompson agrees, suggesting to ‘style the hair by finger styling, rather than using a comb.’ Curling tools A ‘wash & go’ is not suitable for all hair textures, so try a rod or straw set for beautifully defined curls. Follow the steps above but instead of allowing your hair to fall naturally, use rollers or simply braid or twist the hair to create the curls you desire. Section the hair fairly neatly, ensuring all of your hair is fully detangled prior to adding rollers or braiding or twisting the hair so the results are more uniform.

Curl preserving updo by Mizani

BBH TIP

Sleeping on your curl set overnight will give the hair time to dry properly preventing frizz.

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Diffused blowout by Craig Chapman

Drying method If you decide to use heat to speed up the drying process, be sure to use a blow dryer with a diffuser attachment as this will help keep your curls intact. Avoid using a diffuser on soaking wet hair as this can dry it out causing poofy, undefined strands. The best time to use a diffuser is when your hair is 50 per cent air dried. Divide your hair into sections and lightly place the strands onto the base of the diffuser and use a gentle scrunching motion to keep your curl shape as you dry your roots. Always use your blowdryer on a cool or very low heat to prevent any damage, and if you must use higher temperatures, ensure you use a heat protectant first. If air drying, pre part your hair where desired and allow your hair to hang freely to prevent random bends in your style. We know it’s difficult, but hand-in-hair syndrome whilst your hair is still wet may affect how well the curls hold. Errol recommends ‘air drying without touching again.’ Add volume If your curls are looking a little limp, when your hair is completely dry, carefully pick out and fluff up your roots with an afro comb or your fingers for a fuller look. You can also gently shake the hair at the roots with your hands. Try not to over fluff the hair or separate the curls too much as it will lose definition. It’s

Twist out by ORS

good to apply a small amount of serum or light oil to your fingers first as this will keep your tresses smooth and shiny. Preserve your style To make your curly style last you can lightly mist your tresses with hairspray. At night, try to ’pineapple’ your hair so you don’t squash the curls as you sleep. To pineapple, create a very high ponytail at the top of your head. Secure the ponytail loosely with a hairband so it does not leave a dent. If your hair is shorter, you can lightly twist a few sections of the hair to keep it curly. For extra protection, also wear a silk scarf or sleep on a satin pillowcase as cotton sheets can dry out your hair, reducing the curl definition you've worked so hard to create.

Turn over for more product ideas that will achieve HD Curls…


Naturalistas

FOR DETANGLING

FOR MOISTURE

FOR FRIZZ

ORS Shealicious Moisture Mist Leave-in Conditioning Spray (£6.49/236.6ml) is a rich detangler that preps for styling

KeraCare Natural Textures Defining Custard (£4.45/227g) is suitable for all hair types and keeps desired curl patterns glossy

Mizani True Textures Perfect Curl (£12.90/148ml) elongates even the tightest coils and reduces the frizz on curly sets

HD

WHAT TO USE

FOR SROCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

Use these products to bring your texture to life!

FOR DEFINITION Motions Versatile Texture Defining Cream (£9.99/229ml) has all the ingredients needed for HD definition

FOR CURL SETS

FOR HOLD

FOR STYLING

Curls Unleashed Set It Off Curl Boosting Jelly (£8.99/453.6g) creates gorgeous ‘crunchless’ definition

Cantu Shea Butter Define & Shine Custard (£4.49/340g) gives the perfect amount of hold without making tendrils feel hard

Wahl Chrome Ionic 2000W Hair Dryer (£21.99) reduces frizz and comes with a diffuser for gentle curl drying

116 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5


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Naturalistas

5

MOST COMMON HAIR QUESTIONS

…and Root2tip and Hairducation Academy founder Sal Wyn-Baxter has all the answers

1

2

How do I grow my hair?

Can I thicken my hair?

Women ask me this all the time and I love to respond to them as it’s not a secret. Usually it comes down to the routine they have in place that is preventing them realising the growth potential they could have throughout the year. Are you guilty of any of the following:

I love this question as more often than not, we can all thicken our hair, but not past our genetic maximum. We are all born with a few thousand hair follicles but sometimes they become inactive over time with our hairstyling/lifestyle choices. If your hair is relaxed and thin or you have natural strands that are constantly hidden or in extensions or weaves, you are making your hair thinner by your styling choice. If you do not consciously eat a good hair diet, you are cultivating strands that grow fine and weak. Many women are often amazed when they transition from relaxed to natural hair at the volume and body their hair naturally has. To get a better idea of how much thicker your hair could become through healthy hair practices, take a peek at an old photo of yourself – I’m talking like a decade old. If you have had thicker hair in the past, providing you do not have permanent hair loss, then yes, you can thicken your hair, but is really starts at the root. The secret to thicker, healthier hair strands is the nourishment and care of the scalp and your diet and exercise. One will not work without the other. I have been ow the preaching this for years, ‘Harvest your hair and grow crops you desire.’ Harvest internally, manage externally. nally.

• Failure to massage the scalp • You never steam your hair • You wear weaves or wigs with no rest period • You wash your scalp less than once a month • You comb/brush/blow-dry weekly Hair growth although nurtured internally, must be managed externally. It’s a holistic approach you need to take to realise truly healthy hair growth. We all grow hair, but if you want superior hair growth, you need to work for it! Inferior hair growth as I call it, relates to weak fine strands of hair that grows slowly. Hair growth is achieved when you actively decide to grow healthy hair and stick to a plan! This includes scalp care, deep conditioning treatments, daily moisture and a healthy diet and exercise regime.

3

Why is my scalp always itchy and dry? If your hair and scalp constantly suffers from flakes, itching and tenderness, you need to clarify the scalp and then use a great natural oil designed to invigorate, hydrate and nourish the scalp. If you wash your scalp infrequently, but go to the gym, wear a wig, or relax your hair every four to eight weeks, this will have a direct effect on the way your scalp behaves. The same you wash and take care of your skin, the same must be done to the scalp also. It is, after all, an extension of facial skin – the main difference being the hair follicles present. Avoid heavy grease and pomades because they attract dirt and stifle the scalp. Instead, opt for light relaxing non-comodegenic (anti-pore blocking) scalp oils designed to nourish and hydrate like our Grow it Long Serum or Root Energizer Oil. Both are 100 per cent natural and made just for the scalp! Also, be sure to use a shampoo free from sulphates, as they are simply too strong and drying for our hair. In the long run they can lead to scalp dryness, flakes and itching.

4

How do I stop my hair going grey? Grey hair is a part of life. Although you cannot prevent the loss of pigment occurring in hair over time, you can

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possibly delay it. I have around two random grey hairs on my head and I put this down to the fact that I have been using my Super-Growth Root Energizer Oil consistently for years. There are many articles and information online that state Ayurvedic

Grow-it-long Scalp Serum, £13.99

Super-Root Energizer Oil, £15.99

herbal extracts retard grey hairs occurring, and although it has not been scientifically proven, I would attest to that fact. My hair has a constant sheen and looks extremely healthy and I put it down to my scalp oil of choice which is laden with quality ayurvedic herbs.


5

I have alopecia, will my hair grow back?

This is one of the questions I get asked the most! It’s a subject very close to my heart as my own alopecia led to the creation of my brand Root2tip. Alopecia really affects your self-esteem and hair confidence. Sadly many of the women I meet in the UK and Europe suffer with alopecia brought about by bad hair practices, this means it’s actually completely avoidable! Alopecia is a complex condition, and the answer to whether you can regrow hair after hair loss, is dependent on the type of alopecia you have. If you have medically related alopecia due to a blood illness or scalp condition, once you restore your body/scalp back to health, you can expect your hair to regrow also. This is also true in the case of post-natal shedding after pregnancy. If you have genetic/hereditary born alopecia, then it may be harder to restore hair growth, but unless you try you may never know. Every case is unique. Non-medical or sadly self-induced alopecia caused from tight weaves, wigs, braids, relaxers and other bad styling choices may or may not lead to hair regrowth. It largely depends on the damage caused to the scalp follicle. If your scalp has been subject to repeated damage, it will not produce hair again. Scarring on the scalp or enlarged follicles may be a sign that hair growth is no longer possible in that area. Prevention is always better than cure, however sometimes it will occur through no fault of our own. It must be dealt with as soon as it noticeable to ensure successful hair regrowth.

e. info@SapnaHair.com

t. 0844 415 7805

Style @ home For more advice from Sal visit www.root2tip.com and www.hairducation.org O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 11 9


curly

Naturalistas

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BBH LOVES

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Aruba Soft Deep

2 Boho Twist 3 Crimpy Wave 4 Gypsy Spiral 5 Bahamas Loose Wave 6 Bohemian Soft Water 7

Brazilian Curl Updo

8 Dominican Deep Wave

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Naturalistas

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Senegal Braid Spiral Twist Updo

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Soft a nd gentle on baby‘s skin. Helps prevent diaper rash, soothes chapped lips.

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Naturalistas

WHAT MEN REALLY THINK OF NATURAL HAIR Carly Lewis finds out how the opposite sex really feels about curly, coily and kinky-haired naturalistas

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t seems like everyone has something to say about natural hair...even men! The natural hair movement is showing no signs of slowing down and stories of women transitioning or big-chopping are becoming increasingly commonplace. Whilst women are often more than happy to throw in their two pence worth, men’s opinions aren’t always given as much attention. This is why we’ve chosen to explore the subject from the male perspective.

THE NAYSAYERS

Yes, apparently men have a lot to say about women with natural hair too. Let’s look at YouTube, for instance, where you can find countless of videos of men discussing the natural look. From solo vlogs and boyfriend tags to group discussions and street interviews, men have been very busy trying to integrate their voices into women’s afro hair and beauty culture. 124 BB & H O CTO B ER / N OVEMBER 201 5

Though the general consensus seems to be either neutral or in favour of natural hair, there are some men who aren’t convinced. Female YouTuber Nubian Grace made a video called ‘What “some” black men think about natural hair’, simulating a real-life conversation she had when a man approached her to talk about her hair. In the video the man asks her: ‘Don’t you think it looks too ghetto to wear your hair natural?’ If you really want to find out someone’s honest opinion about something there’s no place like Twitter. User @Oxy_Jon said, ‘I don’t know any of us men that prefers natural hair on women,’ whilst @NickMos4 tweeted: ‘Any black girl that rocks that natural hair look is basically sayin.. “I don’t want NO men to like me”.’ @___jfrank even went as far as to say, ‘I wish black girls would stop with that ugly natural hair stuff. They need to stick to weave and sew-ins.’

In 2011, rapper Method Man publicly lambasted natural haired women

But it’s not just your average Joe who isn’t feeling the afro look, some famous men have also shared their dislike for women with kinkier textures. Who can forget rapper Method Man’s harsh comments during a recorded interview back in 2011? When asked ‘Do you like natural hair?’ he replied, ‘No. I don’t like peasy afros, sorry. I don’t like dreads either. I like a woman to get her hair did.’


THE SUPPORTERS

Not all men have adopted a negative stance. In fact lots of them are pro-natural hair and proud to admit it. ‘I’m against anything that’s not natural. That doesn’t just go for hair that goes for anything,’ says LEON LEWIS, 33. ‘I don’t care if you’ve got afro puffs or if you’re rocking a fade. I’d rather that than weave and extensions. I’d say just rock the natural look but it doesn’t seem to be the way right now. More often than not, if you see a black girl she’s got weave or she’s got some kind of tracks or extensions in. It doesn’t make sense to me, you look good the way you are.’ GBENGA TAIWO, 26, says: ‘I prefer natural hair because I feel like I can play with it. When a woman doesn’t have natural hair and you touch it they tend to get upset because they think you’re going to mess it up. I feel like natural hair looks better. Black women with natural hair, especially when it’s in an afro, look really good - I prefer that. I feel like it’s a sign of confidence.’

Natural hair model Mariah Bias was the lead lady in Wale’s music video

After releasing the music video for his single The Body, Wale found that a lot of people were surprised with the woman cast as the leading lady. Mariah Bias, a brown-skinned, natural-haired model was a refreshing change compared to the stereotypical girls seen in rappers’ videos that tend to wear long flowing weaves. ‘Mariah kind of epitomised what I felt a normal beautiful “round the way� girl looked like,’ he said. Drake even shouted out natural hair on his verse for Kendrick Lamar’s Poetic Justice, when describing a girl he says: ‘Your natural hair and your soft skin.’ Dead Prez’s The Beauty Within is an ode to black beauty – ‘Natural hair is your heritage but to see it without chemicals is as rare as the pyramids,’ one half of the duo raps.

THE INBETWEENERS

And then you have the men who don’t mind how you rock your tresses. ‘It depends what they do with their hair, but natural hair or weave, I don’t mind as long as you look good,’ says DAVID ODUNTAN, 19. STUART LAUDER, 26, says, ‘Some girls can pull it off, some can’t. I think those that have never relaxed their hair tend to pull the styles off. Some people get into this black woman empowerment thing and they just want to go natural. You also hear girls saying that they want to start over with their hair, but I don’t think they take time to actually think about what they’re doing. They just think “yeah my best friend chopped her hair off a few years ago and now she looks so much better�, and they go down that line instead of thinking that their hair will take long to grow back and they won’t know how to maintain it to bring the best out of it.’ FINAL WORD... It shouldn’t matter what anybody else thinks. Whether you’re natural, relaxed, texturised or somewhere inbetween, you should wear your hair in whatever state makes you happy. Don’t let someone else’s views influence your styling choices. Life’s too short to suppress your individuality!

           

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Naturalistas

5

SPEEDY RECOVERY

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OF THE BEST

ARGAN OILS

Keep breakage at bay with argan oils

Afrodite 100% Pure Argan Oil (£8.95/ 30ml)

SCALP RESCUE

Eliminate the drying effects of shampooing with Superdrug’s new Hair Therapy Cleansing Conditioner (£4.99/50ml). The one step wash system gently hydrates and freshens

Skin Salvation Scalp Oil by Pure Potions Skincare (14.99/50ml), deeply penetrates and gently moisturises to provide relief from itching. Ideal for treating eczema and other skin allergies that affect the scalp

ORS Argan Oil Smooth & Shine (£4.99/ 90ml)

WHAT’S NATURAL

Douvall’s Organic Argan Oil Moisturiser (£12/ 15ml)

The latest curl-loving products

A SOFT HOLD

BEDHEAD BE GONE!

Does your headscarf struggle to stay on at night? Solve the problem with Silkskin Silk Pillowcase (£44). The smooth surface is so kind to hair that is reduces breakage and keeps frizz at bay

NXS Shea and Cocoa Butter Pomade (£7.25/2oz) contains a rich botanical mix of moisturising natural ingredients, which will give you a beautifully defined twist out, plus a buttery soft finish that has bounce and movement

Vatika Naturals Argan Enriched Hair Oil (£3.99/ 200ml)

WIN SEE PAGE

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Argan Oil of Morocco Miracle InShower Oil (£7.99/ 118ml)

FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

ORS Shealicious puts some fun into deep conditioning with pre-blended mixes that only need a quick swirl to activate the ingredients. Prices from £2.49


Breast Cancer Awareness Month

BREAST CANCER

SPOT THE SIGNS With one in eight women in the UK developing breast cancer in their lifetime, learning to be breast aware could just save your life, says Emily Berryman

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A

s modern women, we are often all too guilty of obsessing over how big, small, pert or saggy our breasts are. But when was the last time you really checked your breasts? According to latest figures, nearly 55,000 Brits are diagnosed with breast cancer each year – that’s the equivalent of one person every 10 minutes. And while statistics show that black women have lower incidences of breast cancer than white women, alarmingly, we have a higher mortality rate, which is thought to be due to later presentation and diagnosis. Determined to get to know our breasts better, we caught up with Jackie Harris, clinical nurse specialist at Breast Cancer Care for some top tips on self-examination…. Do a risk assessment While keeping active, drinking less alcohol and sticking to a healthy diet are all thought to help reduce our risk of developing breast cancer, ‘The fact is, breast cancer can affect all women regardless of race, age or lifestyle,’ says Jackie. ‘The biggest risk factors for breast cancer are being female – as over 99 per cent diagnosed are female, and getting older – 80 per cent diagnosed are over the age of 50. So while leading an active life and maintaining a healthy weight can reduce your risk, the most important thing you can do is be breast aware.’ Know what’s normal for you Shockingly, 56 per cent of black or ethnic minority women in the UK admit to never checking their breasts, according to Breast Cancer Care’s Same Difference report, and this is extremely distressing as the later the diagnosis, the less effective treatment will be. ‘There is no right or wrong way to check your breasts,’ says Jackie. ‘Breasts come in all different shapes and sizes and what’s “normal” for one woman, will be different for another. Get to know your breasts by looking at and feeling them regularly, then if you should notice a change that isn’t usual for you, get it checked out.’

Read the signs Plenty of factors such as breastfeeding, periods to pregnancy and menopause can change how our breasts look and feel, but picking up on the warning signs early could save our life. ‘Look out for a lump or thickening in the breast, discharge from your nipples and constant pain or swelling in your breast or armpit,’ says Jackie. ‘Puckering or dimpling in the skin, redness (which on dark skin may appear as a darkening), a rash, a change in the position or shape of your nipple, or a change in the size or shape of your breasts can be signs too.’ Visit your GP Almost a fifth of women wait more than a month to see their GP about a breast cancer symptom and worryingly five per cent wait over six months, potentially putting their lives at risk. ‘If you notice a change in your breast that is unusual for you, visit your GP as soon as possible. It is natural to feel worried or concerned or simply to delay going, but it’s important to remember that most changes are likely to be normal or because of a benign (not cancerous) breast condition,’ says Jackie. ‘If it is a cancer, the sooner it is diagnosed, the more effective treatment is likely to be.’ Keep your appointments Admittedly, having a mammogram will not be the most relaxing experience of your life, but worryingly, Breast Cancer Care’s study revealed that nearly half (49 per cent) of black or ethnic minority women of screening age in the UK have never attended a breast screening appointment. ‘If you are aged between 50 and 70, you will be invited every three years to have a mammogram, which is an x-ray of the breast that can detect breast cancer at an early stage,’ explains Jackie. ‘If you are over the age of 70 you will need to request an appointment with your local breast screening unit. It is important to find out about breast screening and decide if you want to attend.’

For further information call Breast Cancer Care’s free support line on 0808 800 6000 or visit www.breastcancercare.org.uk

Christina Bray, 39, from Birmingham was diagnosed with breast cancer last year. Here, Christina shares her brave story…. ‘Like most women in their thirties, before breast cancer I was on the treadmill of life, but my diagnosis last December has made me re-evaluate everything. The moment I felt the lump was incredibly frightening but I knew I had to make an appointment with my doctor to get it checked out. Initially my GP thought it was a non-cancerous cyst but referred me to a breast unit anyway to take a further look. I was given a mammogram and scan and I will never forget when the doctor told me that I had breast cancer. I was shocked and totally devastated. My diagnosis came only a week before my 40th birthday, which I had been busy planning a big party for. Coming to terms with my diagnosis, I decided that breast cancer was going to fit around my plans rather than the other way round, and I have been following this mantra ever since. I still had my party as planned and it was a fabulous celebration and definitely not a pity party!’

‘I WAS TOLD I HAD BREAST CANCER A WEEK BEFORE MY 40TH BIRTHDAY’ Since her diagnosis, Christina has gone through chemotherapy and a mastectomy followed by reconstruction. ‘Despite having breast cancer I feel lucky. I’m lucky I found the lump early and that I’ve had treatment quickly and successfully. My son, close family and friends have been very supportive through everything and help is out there. Shortly after diagnosis I found an excellent support group on FaceBook called Younger Breast Cancer Network specifically aimed at women under 45 who have breast cancer. This group has been a lifeline for me. I have also used Breast Cancer Care’s support line for advice in the first few days after diagnosis. They were able to offer me reassurance and practical advice as well as being a safe place where I could gain some solace. Of course, there has been a lot of fear and uncertainty but I have gained inner strength and I now live for the moment and value my life, health and family so much more.’

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Wise Buys

Don’t let kinks and dents spoil your hairdo by using this Limited Edition Pale pink Invisibobble (£3.99). £20,000 will be donated in support of Breast Cancer Now

Origins Launches BCAM Limited Edition Pink Ribbon Make A Difference Hand Treatment (£19.50) in support of Breast Cancer Month. £5 of the sales will be donated to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation

Plump up your lips with this hydrating Crème de la Mer Lip Balm (£45). For every one sold, 20 per cent will go to Breast Cancer Care

Jane Iredale is once again supporting breast cancer charities and will be donating 100 per cent of the net profits from the sale of the Limited Edition Smell the Roses Hydration Spray (£23)

THINK PINK

Help raise vital funds for breast cancer charities by treating yourself to one of these feel good beauty fixes Support Breast Cancer Awareness Month by treating yourself to the Jo Malone Red Roses Cologne (£85). £20 from each purchase will be donated to Breast Cancer Research

Elemis continues its support for Breast Cancer Care by donating £10,000 to the charity. To celebrate, get your hands on the Limited Edition Elemis Pro-Radiance Illuminating Flash Balm (£33)

Agadir have released a Special Edition Argan Oil Hair Treatment for Breast Cancer (£27). A portion of the proceeds will be donated to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation

130 BB & H O C TO B E R / N OV E M B E R 2 01 5

FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

Brighten up your look with Clinique Pink With A Purpose Cheek Pop (£17.50). £2 of every sale will go to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation


Global Babes

HAIR AND BEAUTY IN

We talk to two British expats who have surprisingly reaped the benefits of the Korean hair and beauty world. By Kiesha Meikle

initially too. Korean culture has definitely changed me and for the most part I must say for the better. I now understand how hard integrating into a new culture is. I eat a lot more Korean food now, I just look at life differently, fashion and make -up too.’

S

Beauty benefits Most of us would baulk at the idea of giving up the easy access we have to our traditional foods, hair products and of course our family and community, to live in an unfamiliar place. However, the benefits of living in a different country, including learning a new language, making new friends, having access to new products and food could be said to be worth it Megan Bowen thinks so. Megan Bowen moved to Korea from the USA to teach three years ago. She loved the food and language and decided to visit for a year. Three years later, Megan is now a successful TV personality and YouTuber, funding her lifestyle through her work. She says that her skin, afro hair and general health have improved since moving to Korea. ‘Korea definitely feels like home! It’s safer here as the crime rate is very low. I have adapted to the culture and food well and learned the language. The food is mainly rice with vegetables - little oils and little salt. My hair grows much faster here, due to the increase in nutrients and probably because of all the hair packs I use – Korea has much more variety when it comes to hair packs for moisture, so I can retain the length. The skin products are next level here! Most of the women have good healthy skin and everywhere you look there are skin products. My nightly skin routine increased to a five-step process but it keeps my skin moisturised, youthful and vibrant looking. Koreans aren’t afraid to use weird stuff in their skin products like snails and placenta. They’ve got some weird stuff but it works well.’

ome say that it all started with the success of PSY’s Gangnam Style and his subsequent partnership with Snoop Dogg. This is debatable, as for years now Korea has been gaining popularity the world over for its innovative cosmetics, food, K-dramas and K-pop stars. There is no denying that the Korean beauty (or K-beauty) craze has become a regular part of the beauty conversation both in the UK and US. This is a culture that is renowned for the multi-step skincare regime and being the inventors of the BB Cream – now popular around the world. Korean beauty manufacturers have also gained a reputation for experimenting with unusual ingredients, from donkey milk, to pig collagen, to salmon eggs…but it’s not all about the products. In fact, South Korea’s popularity is such that many are choosing to leave the West and become expats in South Korea’s capital and largest metropolis, Seoul. Opting for a healthier diet, immersion in a different culture and a less hectic way of life (South Korean diets are rich in

For the past three years, vlogger Abigael Taiwo, has documented her time in Korea

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vegetables and the current population of foreigners living there is only at three per cent), it is not just white westerners who have decided to make the move to Korea. There has also been in an increase in the number of black women moving from the UK and the USA to take up available teaching positions – many leaving behind access to their families and necessities to settle in environments which previously saw very few black faces. Mixing cultures Abigael Taiwo lived in Korea for three years and documented her experiences on a successful vlog – Smiling Seoul. Recently relocated, Abigael says South Korea has become popular amongst black women. ‘I think more black women are definitely moving to Korea now,’ explains Abigael. ‘I get lots of messages from them asking for advice on moving there. I guess it’s due to Korean culture finding its way more into the western world now with K-pop, the fashion and Korean dramas. That’s how I found out about Korea

Hair products For those who choose not to go natural, Megan says that the Korean Magic Perm is a great alternative and better than a traditional relaxer for afro hair. ‘My hair feels much healthier than when I had a relaxer back in the day, and the hair gets straighter without any extra straightening. You can use heat-less styles and it comes out well overnight.’


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Above: Since moving to Korea, vlogger Megan Bowen has reported on an improved hair and skin regime

Evening sets ‘MY HAIR GROWS MUCH FASTER HERE, DUE TO THE INCREASE IN NUTRIENTS’ Similar to a Brazilian keratin process, the Korean Magic Perm is mostly done in a salon. Megan gets her hair done at the Family Hair Shop in Itaewon, as well as other products. ‘I love Korea’s Mise En Scene, Damage Care Power K Oil. I use it every day on the ends of my hair as it’s light and doesn’t weigh it down. I recommend it to everyone back home. For my scalp care I use the Korean brand Aromatica Teatree Purifying Shampoo Sulfate Free Silicone Free. It’s “da bomb” for my scalp to keep dandruff off.’ Reality check So, for those who may be considering moving to Korea or even visiting, what are the options? Abigael has some advice. ‘In regards to products I’d say, if you live in Seoul go to Itaewon if you need western hair products. The famous alley behind Dunkin Donuts (Exit 3 Itaewon Station) has a pretty good selection of black hair/skin products. For those of you not near Seoul or in a rural area, the internet

Left: Life in the Far East

is your bestfriend! I got braiding extensions sent to me and also hair products by my mum. I mainly missed black hair products and services and also how cheap they were in comparison to Korea.’ It is difficult to talk about living in Korea without discussing the elephant in the room – what’s it really like being black in Korea? Writer Shari Shepherd said in a recent article: ‘As a foreigner, I’m liberated from trying to be normal. I will never be normal in South Korea.’ Abigael sums it up best, saying that assimilating can be hard but not impossible. ‘I never felt like it would be my home forever because I wasn’t Korean, I didn’t look Korean so in turn I would never fully be treated as Korean (if that makes sense). I always felt like “the foreigner” and the perks were great, don’t get me wrong, but some days I just wanted to blend in like I did in London. That never really happened and I got used to being stared at and being asked where I was from on a daily basis. That is one thing to keep in mind: Korea may never feel like home for some but then again for others it might actually become home. My advice, go there with open eyes and an open mind. Try everything at least once, if you don’t like it you don’t have to return.’

Megan’s YouTube Channel www.youtube.com/user/ChoNunMigookSaram

Earrings

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Abigael’s Blog www.smilingseoul.com O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 133


Anti-Ageing

FOREVER

YOUNG

Women who look younger than their age rely on good genetics, but to really defy time (and gravity), a robust skin care regime must be in place says Prisca McGuire. And it’s best to start now…

‘I

don’t believe you! You look nowhere near your age.’ If this sounds familiar, then you’re one of the lucky ones. In fact, statistically you’re one in every five black women whose exceptional set of genes makes you look years, if not, decades younger than your actual age. So, statistically you are the exception – not the rule, especially when compared to one in every ten white women who carry this special gene. Although most black women switch off when we hear adverts or news about anti-ageing products, the truth according to a recent study, is that black women have only a one in five chance of being born with ageless skin. In reality this means that we are more likely but not guaranteed to have the genes that keep skin looking younger than its years. Top beauty brand, Olay, is working with the prestigious Harvard University on the MultiDecade and Ethnicity (MDE) study which began in 2012. The research is looking at women ageing across decades and across ethnicities and reported its emerging findings in June at the 23rd World Congress of Dermatology. Even if you’re in the lucky one in five group, environmental factors such as stress and pollution can, if you let them, cause premature skin ageing. Investing in anti-ageing products and treatments will therefore boost what nature has already given you. But if you’re not in the lucky ‘one in five’, then it’s time to wake up and smell the proverbial roses.

Avon’s Anew Essential Youth Maximising Serum (£25)

Caudalie The Elixir (£49)

Start with the eyes

Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Eye (£29/15ml)

Argan+ MultiAction Eye Cream (£12.99/15ml)

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If anything gives away your age, it’s the skin around the eyes. The thin, delicate layer surrounding the eye contour is four times thinner than the rest of the skin on the body. With only a small number of sebaceous glands, this fragile area is one of the first places to show signs of ageing. ‘Eye treatments high in anti-inflammatory properties and replenishing lipids are essential to maintain healthy and younger looking under-eye skin,’ says Dr. Adam Geyer, Kiehl’s consulting dermatologist, and founder of Tribeca Park Dermatology in New York City. For fresher and younger looking eyes, try Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Eye. It contains Butcher’s Broom, a root extract, known to increase microcirculation. When combined with other ingredients, it helps to reduce puffiness and strengthen the delicate eye area. Also worth a look is the Argan+ Multi-Action Eye Cream. It’s a light textured cream that rejuvenates, hydrates, lifts and smoothes the eye area.

Pre-moisturisers

To boost the impact of your routine moisturiser, invest in a good pre-moisturiser treatment. Avon’s Anew Essential Youth Maximising Serum is part of its anti-ageing treatment line. It’s designed to detect cellular damage and provide advanced skin cell repair where and when it is needed. Also worth a look is The Elixir from Caudalie’s Premier Cru range. It has a half-oil, halfserum formulation that melts effortlessly into the skin. The elixir prepares the skin for your cream so you can benefit from maximum anti-ageing protection.


Dirty Works Overnight Facial Lift (£8)

Weleda Pomegranate Firming Night Cream (£23.95)

Garnier’s Miracle Sleeping Cream (£12.99)

Olay Regenerist 3 Point AgeDefying Night Cream (£29.99)

Beauty while you sleep

Overnight Facial Lift has seaweed extract and shea butter to lift, tone and boost collagen production and helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Olay Regenerist 3 Point Age-Defying Night Cream can also help to regenerate and reenergise your skin. If you’re a fan of natural products try the Weleda Pomegranate Firming Night Cream. Weleda’s European beauty consultant, Lilith Schwertle, explains the value of using pomegranate as part of your anti-ageing regime. She says: ‘Pomegranate is a very dynamic and potent medicinal plant, full of antioxidants to provide effective anti-ageing protection from free radicals. Along with high levels of important fatty acids and vitamins, pomegranate seed oil stimulates cell renewal to help keep skin firm and radiantly beautiful.’

Good Things Time Rewind Day Cream (£8.99)

Elizabeth Arden Pro Skin Renewal Cream (£51)

Time Rewind Day Cream by Good Things is a perfect start to your day. It infuses vitamin E with green rooibos extract, to help stimulate collagen production and improve your skin’s firmness. Elizabeth Arden Pro Skin Renewal Cream rejuvenates complexions by penetrating the deep layers of the skin. If you’ve already got a few lines here and there, try Skyn Iceland’s Angelica Line Smoother (£54/42.5g) to undo the damage that stress and other factors may have imposed on your skin.

The concept of ‘beauty sleep’ is not all pie in the sky. Quality sleep really does make a difference to the condition of your skin. Apparently, the ‘golden hours’ between 11pm and 2am are the most critical hours as far as skin regeneration is concerned. During the day, skin is focused on protection, whilst at night, its task is to rejuvenate and repair. As we sleep, the skin is much more amenable to rejuvenation and recovery than during the day when its prone to attack from stress and other environmental factors. Maximise your skin’s capacity to repair itself by investing in overnight anti-ageing treatments. Garnier’s Miracle Sleeping Cream offers the benefits of a mask treatment with the lightness of a cream. Dirty Works

100% Human Hair Extensions

Nubian Queen hair extensions and hair pieces are available in a wide range of texture, colours and lengths providing silkiness and movement to your hair.

Available from all good afro stores nationwide

www.nubian-queen.com O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5 B B & H 135

FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

Day treatments


Problem solved

Beauty

YOUR

Holistic beauty therapist Bharti Vyas answers your beauty questions

DID YOU KNOW?

An average woman eats about two to three kilos of lipstick in her lifetime A fat cell lives for about seven years. When a fat cell dies, a new one grows to replace it. If fat cells are removed by liposuction, the body compensates by growing new fat cells in other areas of the body

There are over 1,000 species of bacteria that grow on the average person’s skin

Lip Service The mouth is our most sensual facial feature, so it is important to keep it looking good. Lips have no sebaceous glands so need the added lubrication of a balm throughout the year. One effective way to plump up your lips is to smear a little castor oil on them. To make your own lip conditioner take one teaspoon (tsp) of aloe vera gel, a pea-sized drop of vitamin E cream, six drops of rose oil and mix them together. For the maximum effect, rub into your lips everyday. Vitamin E is an excellent moisturiser and softener and rose oil encourages the skin on the lips to regenerate. This balm will help keep your

lips supple and slow down the appearance of fine lines around the edges of the mouth. Another way to keep your lips looking luscious is to polish them daily. This will remove dead skin cells which can make lips look patchy and weathered, something which can be exaggerated when you put on lipstick. Make your own lip polish by mixing one tsp of oatmeal with one tsp of almond oil and gently massage over the lips. Exercising the muscles around the mouth can also help keep it in tip-top condition. As often as possible, close your mouth and inflate the skin above the upper lip and on either side of the mouth, as if blowing. Hold this pose for a few seconds at a time. Repeat 10 times while breathing through your nose.

Tackling ingrown hairs

I have a lot of ingrown hairs on my chin, what can I do? Poppy, 24 This is a really common problem. Often plucking or picking at the hairs can also cause additional scarring. The ND Yag laser treatment is highly effective in helping to get rid of ingrown hairs. The laser picks up the pigments in your follicles, brings it to the surface and weakens the hair. Having the treatment monthly for at least 10 sessions will help to eventually disable the follicle and considerably slows down its growth. It is also important to keep the skin free of dead skin cells, as these grow over the hair, causing it to grow inward. I love the MD Aloe Polisher. The diamond and pearl shavings stimulate circulation to help repair scarring. It is also worth having a microdermabrasion facial every month or so to further help bring those hidden hairs out of the skin, ready to be lasered! MD Aloe Polisher (£31.99 for 250ml)

SKIN TAG DILEMMA

INFECTED PIERCING

I had my belly button pierced and it seems to have got a little infected. What can I do? Sabrina, 19 Usually salt water is excellent for keeping the skin sterile, but you can also try dabbing a cotton wool bud in some hydrogen peroxide, then applying it to your belly button. If the area is infected it will fizz slightly but as it begins to heal this will lessen. Apply every day, and it should settle within four to five days. If not, you may need to go and see your GP.

GET IN TOUCH 136 BB & H O C TO B E R / N OV E M B E R 2 01 5

Skin tags are small flesh-coloured or brown growths that hang off the skin. They’re harmless. However, a lot of people do find them unsightly. There are two main ways in which people can get them removed; one method is by freezing them off with liquid nitrogen and the other is cauterization. With freezing, it is always hard to tell how deep the liquid nitrogen has penetrated into your skin, so will often cause the skin to be temporarily hyperpigmented. However, eventually the patches should fade. I prefer the cauterization method as it feels more controlled. The therapist uses advanced electrology to burn off the tag and then the needle to cauterize or stem the blood supply to it. It is less likely to hyperpigment but also can take a few weeks to heal.

Here’s how you can contact Bharti to answer your beauty question: Email: bhartivyas@aol.com @bharti_vyas1 Bharti Vyas Centre

FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

I have the option to get my facial skin tags frozen off at my local surgery but my friend says it can cause scarring. She suggested I try cauterization. What do you think? Dee, 32


Problem Solved

YOUR

Hair

Award-winning stylist Shade Oloniyo at Josh Hair & Beauty answers your hair questions

Living in colour

CURLY WIG CARE

I’m 54 and my hair is covered in greys so I like to dye it using home kits. Recently I noticed that my hair feels brittle so is there a healthier way to dye my hair that won’t strip it of all its moisture? Anne, 54

Wigs are great for those lazy days that we all get when it comes to styling our hair, but if it’s not neat and tidy, it can end up serving no use as an interim style. When wearing wigs, be sure to: ◆ Take them off at night to prevent matting and tangling. ◆ When washing use lukewarm water and a mild shampoo and conditioner to aid in keeping the hair’s texture soft and knot-free. ◆ Use a light leave-in conditioner such as Africare Blowdry Lotion (£3.99) to make teasing out curls easier. ◆ Avoid using gels, creams and oils as these type of products stick to the hair strands and contribute to the tangling and matting. Diamond Hair UK, Afro Diva wig

The best thing you can do at this point is to visit a professional hair salon. Using chemicals without the education behind you can result in what you are currently experiencing; dry and brittle hair. Hair colouring is a very technical service and if you are not a trained professional, it’s very unlikely that you will be able to choose the right product for your hair’s very specific needs. Treatments are also essential for your hair type as grey hair often lacks moisture, and because it’s colour-treated the hairs’ natural oils must be replaced.

WATER-ONLY WASHING

Online there’s been a lot of hype about ‘water-only washing’ and its benefits. In your opinion is using water alone a good way to clean hair and make it grow? Ndidi, 22 I wouldn’t suggest using water alone for cleansing hair. On its own, it doesn’t have the capability of removing dirt, oil, grease and day-to-day build-up. Shampooing agents are designed to do just that. Water is great for hydrating, but it does need to be used in conjunction with other cleansing products. As far as the hair growth aspect, that’s definitely down to your diet and maintenance regime.

GET IN TOUCH 1 38 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

In the words of Willow Smith ‘I whip my hair back & forth’

BEYOND HAIR BRAZILIAN FREESTYLE CLOSURE REVIEW WHAT THEY SAY: Our lace closures are the best options for those ladies wishing to give their ‘leave outs’ a rest. With our new discrete closures no one ever needs to know you’re wearing a weave! Its natural finish and invisible appearance will keep them guessing. WHAT BBH SAY: This closure comes in a beautifully packaged pink box. The lace is thin and light but robust enough to withstand daily brushing. The hair is not too dense and makes convincing partings, however after colouring, the curls loosened slightly. PRODUCT SUMMARY • Available with discrete centre partings • 100per cent virgin hair • 4” x 4” size lace used for complete closure • 130 per cent density • Three to six months life expectancy. Can last longer with proper care • Price from £60

Here’s how you can contact Shade to answer your beauty question: Email: joshhairandbeauty@hotmail.co.uk JoshHairNBeauty

JoshHairandBeauty

FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

My curly wigs don’t seem to last as long as my straight ones, even though its virgin hair and costs just as much. After three weeks max they start to matt and look a hot mess! Have you got any tips on how to maintain the life of a kinkier textured wig? Abigail, 20


@ beautyqueencos       

       

OUR BRANCHES: HEAD OFFICE BEAUTY QUEENS COSMETICS 134-136 SOHO ROAD, HANDSWORTH, BIRMINGHAM B21 9LN TEL-(0121)523 4609 BEAUTY QUEENS COSMETICS 302-304 COVENTRY ROAD, SMALL HEATH, BIRMINGHAM B10 0XE TEL-(0121) 766 8745

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Health

GOOD FOR YOU Looking after yourself – inside and out

SPORT ILLUSTRATION

STAY AWARE

Baroness Floella Benjamin is supporting the Be Clear on Cancer Campaign. The aim is to drive awareness of the risk of breast cancer amongst black women over the age of 70, who might not be aware of checking for non-lump breast cancer symptoms. For more details visit www.nhs.uk/ breastcancer70

Look and feel good when you workout with BoomBoom Athletica. The active wear range comes with advanced fabric technology that offers breathability and comfort to improve performance and withstand the demands of even the most gruelling training session.

BEAUTIFULLY BALANCED

Gain control of period pains with Wild Nutrition’s Premenstrual Complex (£30 for 60 capsules). Formulated with only the best organic botanical ingredients, it helps to reduce symptoms like menstrual cramping by supporting and restoring the hormonal balance.

SANITARY LIVING

Diseases can spread through transferring bacteria on our hands, so that’s why it’s handy to have Dr Bronner’s Lavender Hand Santizer (£2.99/59ml) in your bag to kill germs on site.

Natasha’s big day

BoomBoom Athletica Blue Bra (£55)

LOSE IT

When Natasha Williams-Faray became engaged to her long time love in 2012, she knew there was one thing she had to change before her wedding – her size. Since joining LighterLife, Natasha has lost an incredible 7st 5lbs. The effective weightloss programme combines a nutritionally low calorie diet and counselling with experts, who not only assess your relationship with food, but offer encouragement and guidance. To enquire or book a free consultation call 0800 298 8988.

ENERGY BOOST

Aduna Moringa Green Superleaf Energy Bar (£1.89/45g) makes a great post workout treat or snack that doesn’t send your sugar levels through the roof.

Natasha lost seven stones in year and a half

14 0 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

SMART HYDRATION

Infruition Sport Fruit Infusing Water Bottle (£15.99/600ml capacity) is the smart way to hydrate! Simply slice your favourite fruit or veg and add it to the infusion chamber to create your own naturally flavoured water – without all the additives.

FOR STOCKISTS SEE PAGE 146

FOOTWORK

Detoxing isn’t for the faint hearted but Patch-It Detox (from £3.99 for two patches) makes it doable for all. Simply place a patch on each foot before you go the bed. These will support your body’s natural detoxification process by drawing out toxins to purify, beautify and energise, without you lifting a foot (so to speak).


PARTY STYLES! Nyxon products are now available on ebay seller ID Nyxon2013

Available from all good beauty stores & chemists For stockist Tel: 020 7703 2561 Email: dave@nyxon.com

Distributed by: Beautystar Tel: 020 8900 2139.

Non Flaking Longer Lasting Ultra Conditioning High Sheen Gel The One Professionals Prefer!

World of Hair Celebrity Hair Extensions by The Hair Extension Centre. Special 2015 SpecialOffer OfferforforMay/June Jan/Feb 2013 Micro Stands and Micro Weave from ÂŁ125.00* Lace From Wigs from ÂŁ145.00* Call 07956 564420 or email montaz1@hotmail.com 5a Normand Road, West Kensington, London W14 9PT *conditions apply


Giveaways 6 STRONGENDS FULL REPAIR TEMPLE BALMS

BioCare Labs the makers of StrongEnds are offering six lucky readers the chance to win the topselling Full Repair Temple Balm. The anti-thinning treatment helps restore and thicken sparse areas, especially around the hairline, crown and temple.

5 ORS SHEALICIOUS SETS

ORS Shealicious is the brand of ‘Fun-Therapeutic’ hair care products that take the guesswork out of D.I.Y cocktailing. Simply pour in 100 per cent natural, therapeutic oil (perfectly blended and measured to address specific hair problems), and mix to create a problem-targeting, powerhouse hair conditioning cocktail. We’ve got fives sets up fo grabs!

5 MIZANI 25 MIRACLE MILKS With 25 reasons to feel curl confident and 25 reasons to love Mizani even more, 25 Miracle Milk is the product your hair has been waiting for. By blending nourishing coconut oil and cuticle protecting technology, this ultra moisturising, lightweight leavein treatment both smoothes and tames and can be yours today!

YOUR FREEBIES Enter today y to t b be iin with ith i h a chance h off w winning these top prizes

WORTH

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THE CLOTHES SHOW TICKETS

We’ve teamed up with The Clothes Show to offer one lucky reader the chance to win four tickets to The Clothes Show and £250 worth of products from THX Total Hair Experts! On the day, enjoy a makeover session in the Saks Pamper Lounge and treat yourself to the latest hair and beauty products from NYX, Rimmel, Elemis, Ciaté, Lee Stafford and many more. Tickets will be valid for Sunday 5th December 2015 only.

www.blackbeautyandhair.com/freebies.html for more details on our freebies and fill in your details for the prize you’d like to win. Good luck! 142 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5


BB&H Hair Salon Directory Afrotherapy 235 Fore Street, London N18 2TZ; 020 8345 5621 Anne Veck Hair 33 St Clements Oxford OX4 1AB; 01865 727 077 Atherton Cox 18 New Cavendish Street, London W1G 8UR; 020 7487 4048

Francesco Group 99 Darlington Street, Wolverhampton WV1 4EX; 0844 445 4810

Kevin Fortune Hairstyling Academy 11 John Princes Street, London, W1G 0JR; 020 7871 3057

Hair Lounge 347 Portobello Road, London W10 5FA; 020 8969 9444

Lathaniel’s Couture 198 Coldharbour Lane, Brixton SE5 9QH; 020 3601 0683

Hype Coiffure 186 Lavender Hill, Battersea London SW11 5TQ; 020 7223 3800 • 71 Balham High Road, London SW12 9AP; 020 8675 6771

Craig Chapman Hair Design 4 Southgate Street, Launceston Cornwall PL15 9DP; 01566 775 777 Creer Hair Styling at The Kieran Group 30 Crawford Street, London W1H 1LP; 020 7723 0119

Jamie Stevens 9 Russell Gardens, Kensington, London W14 8EZ; 020 7371 1944

Diligence 111 Broadway West, Ealing London W13 0SR; 020 8579 4001

Jimmy Campbell 32 Parsons Green Lane, London SW6 4HS; 020 7610 9321

Dionne Smith 07943 936 188 Errol Douglas 18 Motcomb Street, Belgravia Village, London SW1X 8LB; 020 7235 0110 First Class Salon 237 Knights Hill, London SE27 0OT; 020 8761 0333

NEXT ISSUE Don’t miss the December/ January issue of

My Hair Bar 22 Warren Street, London W1T 5LU; 020 3137 7397 New York Hair Design 2 Langham Parade, Langham Road, London N15 3ND; 020 8888 3397 Russell Eaton 4-6 Boar Lane, Leeds LS1 6EN; 0113 246 9162 Salon Revolution 2 Smallbrook, Queensway, Birmingham B5 4EN; 0121 633 4336

Josh Hair & Beauty 95 Church Street, Croydon, Surrey CR0 1RN; 020 8686 6535

Smiths Salon 57 Poland Street, London W1F 7NW; 020 7734 3004

Junior Green Hair & Beauty 39 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7NL; 020 7752 0620

Toni&Guy 4 Henrietta Street, London WC2E 8PT; 020 7240 7342

Black Beauty & Hair Party Special

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Black Beauty & Hair subscription order form How to order Simply complete and return the coupon below to: Black Beauty & Hair/Subscriptions Hawker Consumer Publications Ltd, 2nd Floor Culvert House, Culvert Road, Battersea, London SW11 5DH For all other subscription enquiries call: ESCO Business Services on: 01371 851 800. Alternatively, order online at www.blackbeautyandhair.com

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LIGHTER BRIGHTER BEAUTIFUL CLEAR SKIN The Laser Treatment Clinic Skin Experts specialise in black skin care concerns and offer cutting edge Derma White & Marine Boost treatment. Advanced skin rejuvenation treatments for darker skin tones. Treats all types old and new acne, scars, pigmentation, stretch marks, sun damage and uneven skin tone. The ideal solution to brighter clear skin with long lasting permanent results. We also offer safe Laser Hair Removal for darker skin tones.

FOR A FREE CONSULTATION WITH OUR SKIN EXPERT CALL 0207 307 8712 For more info & Special Offers visit:

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Is it time for a new look? You will find 100’s of hairstyling ideas to give you the look you have always wanted. Printed in a convenient size to fit into your handbag, the book has styles to suit all hair choices – short, long, weaves, special occasions and men. Only £2.00 including postage and packaging. Buy online at www.blackbeautyandhair.com/blackhairstyles Or send cheque for £2.00 made payable to Hawker Consumer Publications Ltd and send to Black Hairstyles, Culvert House, Culvert Road, London SW11 5DH.


in stock

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a i 150gms r Weavehwith andhair, of Brazilian 8ins, M acut, l astyle, y s iany an colour, £130, limited hair period only. in stock

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Touch of Klass The specialist natural hair salon. Amazing styling options by experienced and qualified stylist for those who love their hair natural.

Touch of Klass

435 Harrow Road, North Kensington London, W10 4RE Tel: 07947 388573

Hair Stylist Junior Stylist Beauty Therapist Apply within or T - 020 8686 9825 E - joshhairandbeauty@outlook.com

www.joshhairandbeauty.com


Stockists

A Aduna www.aduna.com Africare 020 8965 5510 Afrodite www.afroditewigs.co.uk Agadir 020 8207 2591 American Dream 020 8998 9840 Argan Oil+ Selected Waitrose

stores, www.waitrose.com Autograph 0845 300 8022 Avon www.avonshop.co.uk AX Paris www.axparis.com

diego dalla palma M&S Beauty

Kiko Cosmetics Kiko Stores,

Ole Henriksen Selfridges, Harvey

stores, www.marksandspencer.com

www.kikocosmetics.co.uk

Nichols, www.lookfantastic.com

Dirty Works Sainsbury’s

Klorane John Lewis

Oliver Bonas www.

nationwide, www.sainsburys.co.uk Douvall’s www.douvalls.com

Selected L’Oréal Salons

Dr LeWinns Tesco

La Splash www.love-makeup.co.uk

P

E

Label.m Selected Toni&Guy

Elemis 0117 316 1888,

salons, www.labelm.com

www.papachichistyle.com

www.timetospa.co.uk

Lee Stafford Argos

Philip Kingsley

Elizabeth Arden Nationwide,

Lighter Life 0800 298 8988

www.elizabetharden.co.uk

Babyliss PRO

Fantasia IC all good afro retailers

boutiques, www.bareminerals.co.uk Benecos www.benecos.co.uk Benefit Cosmetics

www.benefitcosmetics.co.uk Beyond Hair 020 8889 3112,

www.beyondhair.co.uk Bharti Vyas 020 7935 5312 BlackUP Debenhams nationwide

www.blackup.com/en Bobbi Brown 0870 034 2566,

www.bobbibrown.co.uk Boom Boom Athletica www.

boomboomathletica.com Bouclème www.boucleme.co.uk

C Cantu Paks Cosmetics Cargo Cosmetics

www.cargocosmetics.com Caudalie www.caudalie.com Charlotte Tilbury Selfridges,

Fenwicks, wwwcharlottetilbury.com Ciaté www.ciatelondon.com Clarins www.clarins.co.uk Clinique 0870 034 2566,

www.clinique.co.uk COLOR WOW SpaceNK,

Selfridges, www.colorwowhair.com Créme de la mer

Origins 0800 054 2888 ORS Boots, Tesco, www.boots.com

F

Bareminerals bareMinerals

L’Oréal Professional

oliverbonas.com

Dr Bronner Nationwide

B www.babylisspro.co.uk

L

Flash Tattoos Harrods,

www.flashtat.com

Lusters 020 8 900 2139,

020 8453 1450 M M&Co www.mandco.com MAC Cosmetics 0870 034 2676,

G

www.maccosmetics.co.uk

Ghost Girl nationwide

MAC www.fragrancedirect.co.uk

GlitzySecrets www.

Macadamia Professional

glitzysecrets.com

www.macadamiahair.co.uk

Good Things Boots

Madali Hair www.madali hair.com

GOSH Selected Superdrug

Marks & Spencer 0845 302 1234,

stores, www.superdrug.com

www.marksandspencer.com

H

MDMflow BeautyMart stores,

H&M www.hm.com/gb

www.thisisbeautymart.com

Hair Therapy Selected

MeMeMe

Superdrug stores

www.mememecosmetics.com

Hairaisers www.

Milani www.beautycrowd.com

hairaisersshop.com Hairburst www.hairburst.com, www.hollandandbarrett.com House of Fraser

www.houseoffraser.co.uk I Iconic London

www.iconiclondoninc.com Illamasqua www.illamasqua.com Infruition Selfridges Invisibobble 0345 070 8090 ISIS Faux Remi all

good afro retailers J Jane Iredale 020 8450 7111,

Miss Selfridge

www.missselfridge.com Mizani www.mizani-uk.com Moda in Pelle www.

modainpelle.com Morimax All good afro retailers MoroccanOil www.

moroccanoil.com Motions Superdrug Mychelle www.mychelleuk.com

N Nailberry www.nailberry.co.uk Narciso Nationwide NARS www.narscosmetics.co.uk

Papachichi Style

www.philipkingsley.co.uk Pure Potions Holland & Barrett,

www.purepotions.co.uk R Rock N Rose www.

rocknrose.co.uk Root2tip www.root2tip.co.uk

S Scunci Superdrug, Claire’s,

Very, www.scunci.co.uk Sensationnel All

good afro retailers Silkskin www.silkskin.co.uk Skyn Iceland Marks & Spencer Sleek Hair 020 8502 7448,

www.sleek.co.uk Sleek MakeUP Boots and

Superdrug, www.sleekmakeup.com Smashbox Cosmetics Boots Stila Cosmetics www.stila.co.uk Super Facialist by Una Brennan

www.boots.com T Tangle Teezer

www.tangleteezer.com Topshop www.topshop.com Tresemmé Nationwide Trussardi Harvey Nichols,

Debenhams, House of Fraser V Vatika www.vatikanaturals.co.uk Very www.very.co.uk

W

www.janeiredale.com

New Look www.newlook.com

Jo Malone 0345 602 1073

Next www.next.co.uk

K

NXS www.nxs.international

KeraCare All good afro retailers

O

Barrett, www.patchit.info

KeraStraight 0844 445 6901

Odylique www.odylique.co.uk

Diamond Hair UK 07538 775 841,

KHairMax www.khairmax.com

OGX Selected Boots stores

Wild Nutrition Harrods,

www.yourdiamondhair.co.uk

Kiehls www.kiehls.co.uk

Olay Boots

Space NK

Selfridges, Harrods D Design Essentials 020 8965 5510 Detox Patch Holland &

14 6 B B & H O C T O B E R / N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 5

W7 The Perfume Store Wahl All good afro retailers Weleda www.weleda.co.uk Whitney Marie

www.whitneymarie.co.uk


www.paks.co.uk

Scan here to shop online

No.1 for Natural Hair products

Find us on Facebook HEAD OFFICE 25-27 Stroud Green Road Finsbury Park, London N4 3EF Tel: 020 7263 2331

BRANCHES Finsbury Park: 31 Stroud Green Road, London N4 3EF Wood Green: Unit 14 Wood Green Shopping City, High Road, London N22 Paks Dagenham, 212a Heathway, Dagenham, Essex RM10 8QS Peckham: 141 Rye Lane, London SE15 4ST Dalston: 6-8 Ridley Road, London E5 2NR Hackney: 29-31 Chatsworth Road, London E9 OLH Walthamstow (Market): 33-35 High Street, London E17 7AD Harlesden: (1) 141-142 High Street, London NW10 4SP (2) 57 Craven Park Road, London NW10


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Athe46yeblack beauty & hair october november 20151