UKPA Basic Polocrosse Skills 1
Acknowledgements: Thanks to coaches Jason Webb, Chris Milburn, Simon Amor, Anna Tarbuck, Iain Heaton, Debbie Harris and Tom Simkin for their input to this booklet. If you would like to know more about UK Polocrosse go to the UKPA website www.ukpolocrosse.co.uk or contact sportsdevelopment@ukpolocrosse.co.uk Thanks to Emily for acting as the Photo Model. Thanks to Widdop Bingham and Co and the Juliana Collection for sponsoring the printing of this booklet
Š UKPA 2016 All rights reserve 2
CONTENTS Page 2 3
Glossary and references Introduction
Chapter 1 – The Basics 6 9 16 18 23 24 28 29 31 33 34
Holding the Racquet Catching and Throwing Troubleshooting – Catching and Throwing Tackling and Cradling Troubleshooting – Tackling and Cradling Pick Ups Troubleshooting – Pick Ups Neck Reining Introducing the Horse to the Stick and Ball Layout of the Pitch Polocrosse Tack and Turnout
Chapter 2- Basic Game Rules 38
Playing Rules How the Game is Played Playing Numbers How the Game Starts – The Line Up Crossing the Penalty Line Penalties How a Goal is Scored Carrying the Ball When the Ball Goes out of Play
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Safety Rules Line of the Ball (Lotb) Stopping/Turning on the Ball Crossing In Front or Behind a Horse Contact Between Horses – ‘Riding Off’ and ‘Doubling Up’ Striking an Opponent or an Opponent’s Horse Down Hit on an Opponent’s Racquet
Chapter 3 - How The Game Plays 44 45 47 50
Basic Player Roles Line Outs Basic Area Work Playing In an Arena
Chapter 4 - Skills And Drills - Exercises 51
Skill and Drills 3
GLOSSARY Cradling
Carrying the ball and protecting it from being knocked from your racquet
Doubling up
The process of having players from one team riding off a third opposition player by placing themselves either side of the opponent. One player (on the opponent’s offside) will attempt to stop the player while the other player (on the nearside) attempts to dislodge the ball from the opponent’s racquet (if they have the ball).
Goal on the Board
A free goal due to a foul
Goal Scoring Area
The two areas at either end of the pitch from where a goal must be thrown for it to count. Only the defending No3 and the attacking No1 are allowed in these areas. Also known as the Penalty Area
Line of the ball
An imaginary line on the ground along which the ball is or has recently travelled, extending past the actual position of the ball.
Near side (N/S)
The side you are holding your racquet
Off side (O/S)
Opposite side to the near side
Penalty
Six different penalties can be awarded for infringements, increasing in severity, akin to a free kick in football, plus one for the horse displaying a dangerous vice.
Penalty Line/30 yard Line – The line separating the goal scoring area from midfield. Penalty Area
The zone either end of the pitch. Also known as the Goal Scoring Area.
Riding Off
The act of pushing another horse away from its line of travel so as to prevent the player from going to where they want to
Stock Saddle
Specialist saddle with large thigh pads on the top, similar to a Western Saddle without the central horn.
REFERENCES UKPA Polocrosse Rulebook
www.ukpolocrosse.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/ 2014/02/UKPA-Rulebook-2014-Iss-2.pdf
UKPA Website
www.ukpolocrosse.co.uk
Pony Club polocrosse Rulebook
www.pcuk.org/uploads/polocrosse/ Polocrosse_Rules_2015.pdf
Pony Club Polocrosse Web pages
www.pcuk.org/index.php/ disciplines/polocrosse/
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INTRODUCTION This booklet is designed to supplement the introductory lessons by a UKPA accredited coach. It is intended to be used by riding schools, Pony club branches and centres, riding clubs, livery yards and by individuals when there are no experienced polocrosse coaches available. It is recommended that the services of a qualified polocrosse UKCC coach are still used on a regular basis to ensure that players do not pick up bad habits. It is intended to produce further booklets for more advanced players in due course. Further information on polocrosse and contact details for coaches can be found on the UKPA website www.ukpolocrosse.co.uk. Polocrosse is also played in Pony Club as a recognised discipline and each Area has its own Pony Club representative. Contact details can be found on the Pony Club website www.pcuk.org/uploads/polocrosse/.
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Chapter 1 The Basics
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HOLDING THE RACQUET The racquet can be held anywhere on the gripped section with whichever hand feels most comfortable, but is best either held in the 'normal' position or the 'extended' position. The basic grip remains the same in any position.
Basic Grip - Normal Position
Right Handed
Left Handed The wrist should remain relaxed and not stiff otherwise the ball will not leave the racquet effectively. The basic grip remains the same for throwing (under arm and over arm) catching and pick-ups. The palm should always face towards the ball when throwing, catching and picking up.
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Never place the index finger behind the racquet as this may result in it being bent back. This applies at all times.
Basic Grip - Extended Position
Extended position The ball can be thrown with the grip in the extended position but it is best to return to the normal position as this gives better control. The extended position can be used when catching the ball as it increases the player’s reach. It should always be used when picking up for the same reason. To change from the normal to the extended position and vice - versa the hand should be moved along the racquet rather than throwing the racquet through the hand - this may result in the racquet being thrown away! When moving from extended to normal position angle the racquet up so that gravity brings it down in to your hand.
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When needing to hold two reins keep the racquet head up as this enables the player to rapidly revert to one handed operation and be ready to use their racquet.
Two hands on the reins - correct
Two hands on the reins - incorrect
The ‘Speed’ of the Racquet Each individual racquet has a slightly different action due to no two nets being exactly the same. Players should try to always use the same racquet at each practice so they get used to how it plays. A ‘quick’, ‘fast’ or ‘shallow’ racquet is one with a shallow net and is very easy to throw with; the ball leaves the net very easily. However, it will also let the ball fall out more readily when picking up, cradling against racquet strikes and generally when carrying the ball. A ‘hooky’ or ‘deep’ racquet has a deeper net and is more difficult to throw with; the ball tends to stick in the net. This type of racquet makes picking up and keeping the ball easier. Each player will eventually come to prefer a particular balance of net. If a beginner is having a particular problem with an out of balance racquet then the net can be adjusted by someone who knows how to do it. Speak to your coach for more details. Instructions on how to adjust a racquet can also be found on the internet from the various manufacturers, such as Bennett or Bombers. See the racquet itself for manufacturer’s details. But care should be taken when adjusting and only very small adjustments should be made each time before checking the changes.
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CATCHING AND THROWING CATCHING To indicate you are ready to receive the ball always hold the racquet up. This indicates to your team mate that you are ready to receive the ball and also makes a better target for them to throw to. It should be positioned so that the net is in front of you (see photo), this is the 'ready' position. The racquet is held with the basic grip, either in the normal or extended position. The extended position gives more range to catch the ball, but may feel too 'heavy' for younger players. The wrist should once again remain fairly relaxed to allow free movement.
Catching the ball with a downwards motion
Ready Position When on horseback the player should be in a light seat ready to stretch out if the throw is not very accurate. From the ready position, unless the ball can be allowed to ‘fall’ in to the net because of an accurate throw, it should be caught with the racquet moving in a downwards direction. Once the ball is in the net it will need to be twisted 180o to prevent the ball falling out! See the section on Cradling. Catching the ball in this fashion improves the volume of space from which the ball can be caught. Once the ball is in the net the player should immediately return to the normal grip position, ready for throwing the ball. The wrist should remain fairly flexible relaxed to allow free movement of the racquet.
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The racquet head should be as close as practical to 90o to the line which the ball is travelling to present the widest net entrance.
Narrow Area
Ball Direction
Wide Area
Players should practise catching the ball from different angles and heights. Regular practise is required to achieve a good level of reflex skill.
THROWING There are two basic throws; over arm and underarm. The majority of throws are made underarm except when throwing over the horse to the offside when only an over arm throw is allowed. The underarm tends to throw the ball upwards making it easier to catch. With an over arm throw the ball normally travels very flat and fast making it difficult to catch. The fast and flat tendency of the over arm throw does make it ideal for shots at goal though. Younger players will often find the over arm throw easier as they are not as strong, this is not a problem but they will need to develop under arm throwing as they grow stronger.
Under Arm Throw The same basic grip is used and the racquet is usually held in the normal position, but the ball can be thrown using the extended position. Throwing in the extended position requires more strength so may not be comfortable for younger players. While throwing the wrist should remain relaxed and free to move to allow control of the exit point of the ball. The arm provides the power for the throw and the wrist the control. The simplest throw is straight ahead and players should learn this first. The top end of the racquet should always remain in front of the player’s arm; otherwise the ball is likely to go over the player’s head as well as the throw being robbed of all its power!
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Top end of racquet in front of the thrower’s arm
Final position of the Racquet
The throw should use the whole arm with the wrist giving a quick boost at the end to release the ball. The correct control of when the ball leaves the racquet will come with practise. The motion of the racquet head should always be directly towards the target during the whole throw and it should end up pointing to where the player wants the ball to go. Once the straight ahead throw is achieved the players should practise throwing to different angles. The player should imagine being sited at the centre of a clock face on the ground facing towards 12 O’clock then practise throwing the ball to the 12 O’clock, 3 O’clock, 6 O’clock, 9 O’clock positions etc. without moving their feet. The throwing hand palm should always face towards the direction the ball is to go which will mean twisting the arm when throwing to the side and the whole upper body when throwing behind. Throwing to points from 6 O’clock and later will need to be done over arm as, when on horseback, the horse’s body will prevent an under arm throw, see the section on Over Arm Throws.
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When throwing forwards on horseback the player should put their weight in to the nearside stirrup and lean out slightly to move the racquet away from the horse’s side to make for a better throw. When throwing behind the whole arm and upper body will need to twist to present the face of the racquet in the direction of the throw.
Leaning out with the weight in the stirrup
Throwing to the rear
When throwing sideways the player should lean forward and start the throw with the racquet under the horse’s neck rather than against the horse’s barrel. This gives the throw more power. Great care must be taken to ensure the racquet head does ot twist during the throw as otherwise the power of the throw will be lost. Initially this is uncomfortable as the arm needs to twist to maintain the angle of the racquet
Throwing to the side from under the neck, in a light seat 14
Over Arm Throw Over arm throws are used primarily when throwing over the player’s horse to the offside but may be used at any time. The racquet is allowed to cross the centreline of the horse (see the Basic Rules Section) when in the process of throwing. Care has to be taken when throwing to the nearside to avoid having the ball over the centreline of the horse for too long otherwise the player will be penalised. The basic grip is used in the normal position, using the extended position should be avoided as this is unlikely to result in the ball leaving the net! Once again, players should practise throwing straight ahead to start with and progress to other directions once happy with the techniques.
Initial position for the overarm throw. Note: The elbow is kept up
The throw starts with the racquet almost resting on the player’s shoulder horizontally and perpendicular to the player’s chest with the end pointing where the ball is intended to go. The throwing arm elbow should be kept up as the angle of the upper arm determines the angle of the ball trajectory; the higher the arm points the higher the ball will tend to go.
Incorrect starting position
Correct starting position
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The wrist should remain relaxed and free to move to provide control as for the underarm throw. When throwing the initial action is to move the racquet along its length, similar to throwing a javelin. Then the lower arm unfolds to give the ball its power. As with the underarm throw the motion of the head of the racquet should always be towards the target and the racquet should end up pointing towards the target. This will ensure the ball always goes in the right direction even if it goes too far or not far enough!
The over arm throw; 2 part action
Final racquet position for the over arm throw
Almost invariably beginners will attempt to ‘flick’ the ball out of the racquet at the top of the travel and then pull the racquet back. This will result in a throw with no power. They must be encouraged to continue the motion of the racquet all the way over to the horizontal. Initially players should concentrate on the technique and not on the power. Trying too hard will usually result in the ball ending up at their feet or even going behind the player!
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Once the straight ahead throw has been mastered throwing to other angles can be practised. For all throws the racquet should always be perpendicular (or as close as practical) to the chest otherwise the throw will be robbed of its power. This will mean that the whole upper half of the body will need to twist about the hips in order to throw to either side or behind.
Over Arm Throw to the Off Side Note: The upper body is twisted towards the ‘target’
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TROUBLESHOOTING - CATCHING AND THROWING Generally, many problems with catching and throwing can be resolved simply by regular practice. For example; players need to train their reflexes to remember that they are no longer catching with their hands but with a net a few feet away.
Fault Ball falls out of the net Player struggles to get the ball to land in the net
CATCHING Cause/Remedy Twist the racquet through 180o earlier to prevent it falling out More practice required! Player maybe holding the racquet too far from their line of sight. They should be almost be looking through the net at the thrower
UNDERARM THROW Fault Cause/Remedy Ball goes straight upwards Wrist is being held too rigidly, relax the wrist The top end of the racquet is being held behind the arm. It should always be in view, in front of the arm Racquet may not be being held at the right point along the stick. This reduces the ability of the thrower to relax the movement Racquet is too ‘Hooky’. See Ch 1 The Speed of the section Ball does not go straight towards The racquet is not being swung directly towards the target the target Racquet is not ending up pointing towards the target at the end of the throw It is possible that the racquet net is out of balance – speak to your coach Ball falls out of the racquet as it is The swing is not being made in a smooth being drawn back motion Racquet is being left too long pointing downwards prior to the forward swing The racquet net is too ‘quick’ or ‘shallow’. See Ch 1 the Speed of the Racquet section Ball does not travel far enough Beginners should not fixate on distance but concentrate first on the technique. Once the technique is correct more power can be put in to the shot to increase the distance The player is not following through with the throw. Is the action continued so that the racquet ends up pointing at the target? When throwing to the nearside on The thrower is allowing the racquet to twist as horseback the ball does not go far they throw. Practice throwing slowly and or sticks in the net. preventing the racquet twisting. When throwing to the front the Lean out a little away from the horse, putting racquet catches on the stirrup etc. weight in the stirrup
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OVERARM THROW Cause/Remedy Thrower is trying too hard. Just allow the ball to come out of the net with a gentle action. Power comes later Racquet is too ‘hooky’. See Ch 1, The Speed of the Racquet section Thrower’s elbow is pointing downwards. Lift the elbow up while you throw Throw is not carried out in a two part action. Ball sticks in the racquet Thrower is trying too hard. Just allow the ball to (possibly ending up going come out of the net with a gentle action. Power backwards!) comes later Racquet is too ‘hooky’. See Ch 1, The Speed of the Racquet section Ball does not go far enough Thrower’s elbow is pointing downwards. Lift the elbow up while you throw Distance will come with practice An overarm throw will tend to fly flat so sending the ball any distance can be difficult. An underarm throw should be used where practical Ball does not fly in the right Starting point for throw is not correct. Refer to direction throwing section. Final position of the racquet is not pointing to the target When throwing to the side the Thrower must ensure they twist their upper body ball does not travel far or fails to to keep the racquet perpendicular to their chest leave the racquet as they throw. This allows the whole arm to be used, giving the throw more power Ball falls out of the racquet as Racquet head is being allowed to drop too low in the thrower commences the preparation for the throw. Keep the racquet more throw horizontal Fault Ball goes straight down to the floor
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TACKLING AND CRADLING TACKLING Players are allowed to hit an opponent’s racquet, but only under specific conditions to make it a safe process (see the Basic Rules Section). There are two basic hitting swings for the beginner which are used in different circumstances.
60o Swing The 60 swing is the most common swing used by beginners and is usually used when the players’ horses are in contact, or close to contact, with each other. As it is difficult to put much power in to the 60 swing it is best carried out rapidly and repeatedly to try and dislodge the ball. The racquet is usually held at the normal position, but can be held at the extended position which will increase the range but will rob the strike of most of its power. The racquet is held completely over the side of the horse adjacent to the opponent. A left handed player will find striking the racquet of a right handed player much easier than a right handed player as they will not need to move their racquet to the offside.
The 60 Swing – (Opponent not shown for Clarity) The player should always attempt to strike the ball rather than the racquet as this is more likely to be effective. Also, for best effect, the racquet should be held with the head vertical so as to strike the ball with the edge of the head, not the face.
Best Effect
Much Less effective 20
By persistently striking the racquet/ball in this manner the ball should eventually be dislodged. This will also make it very difficult for the ball holder to throw the ball to a team mate.
180o Swing The180 swing can only be used when the two horses have a gap between them for the racquet to pass through so is usually made prior to first contact. It is easily avoided by the opponent if they know it’s coming so is best used when there is the element of surprise. The swing must start with the racquet no higher than the horse’s hip (basically horizontal) otherwise it would be classed as a wild (dangerous) swing.
Correct starting height
Too high, a dangerous swing
The 180 SWING (Opponent not shown for Clarity)
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The 180 swing has the potential to pack a lot of power and so must be used with care! The tackler will need to lean out slightly with their weight in the opponent-side stirrup to give their racquet extra space to swing. The grip on the racquet can either be in the normal or extended positions though it is better in the extended position for greater range and more power. To get the racquet to the correct position (for beginners) start by holding the racquet vertically on the nearside with the lower arm horizontal, swing the lower arm across the front of the body so that the racquet hand is pointing backwards. Then rotate the wrist so that the racquet rotates to the horizontal, pointing backwards behind the hitter. From there the racquet is swung forwards in an arc to strike the opponent’s racquet/ball. If further swings are practical the racquet is not allowed to continue in a full circle to restart for the next swing, like a propeller. There must be a pause in the cycle otherwise it will be considered a wild (dangerous) swing. However, successive swings are rare as the horses often contact and leave no gap for a second swing and the opponent is now aware you’re there and can take suitable actions.
Illegal Swings As using the racquet has obvious safety implications there are certain swings which are illegal and could result in the player being sent off. These include those that do not meet the criteria laid out in the Basic Rules Section and the following; a. Flat swing: Swings should always be in an upwards direction and a flat (horizontal or near horizontal) swing (otherwise known as a ‘helicopter’ swing) could easily result in a strike to the opponent’s head, face or neck. b. When too far back/forward: The striking player must always be in the position to hit the opponent’s racquet before they swing. Swinging when too far away could result in the opponent’s horse or the opponent themselves being hit. The player’s body must be at least up to the opponent’s horse’s hip before swinging. c. Multiple Swings: As described above, consecutive 180 swings without a pause are not allowed as they will become uncontrolled possibly resulting in injury to the opponent or their horse.
CRADLING To resist an opponent’s hit to their racquet a player needs to learn to ‘cradle’ the ball and there are two basic ways of doing this. Using a mix of the two methods will make it harder for an opponent to dislodge the ball. Unless about to throw the ball or resist a strike the racquet should be carried in the ‘safe’ position. This has the racquet low over the near side of the horse with the end tucked between the rider’s arm and their waist with the racquet head horizontal. In this position it is hard to strike the racquet.
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Racquet close to horse’s neck and below the crest
The ‘safe’ Position
Forward Cradle This works well against a 60 swing but not so well against a 180 swing. As the opponent starts the upwards part of the swing the player pushes their racquet forwards and upwards, at the same time as twisting the head approximately 90 o (anticlockwise for a right hander, clockwise for a left hander). The upward motion robs the opponent’s strike of much of its power, the forward motion prevents the tackler hitting the ball itself, and the twist makes it difficult to strike the ball as well as helping to keep the ball in the racquet from the upward motion. As far as practical, as the racquet is twisted, the lower half of the racquet should be kept under the lower arm as this will provide some protection from a miss strike by the opponent hitting the arm.
Racquet twisted so the ball is not thrown out and arm pushed forward
The Forward Cradle
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After each cradle the racquet must be quickly brought back to the ‘safe’ position otherwise it will tend to get higher and higher making it easier to strike. The racquet may also end up moving over the centreline of the horse resulting in a penalty to the opponent’s side.
Backwards Cradle The backwards cradle is particularly useful against a 180 swing, but can be used against a 60 swing in conjunction with forward cradles. Instead of going forward and up the racquet is brought from the safe position to the vertical position at the side of the body. The racquet will need to be twisted slightly to prevent the ball flying out of the head. The racquet should be immediately brought back to the safe position ready for the next strike. Leaving it in the vertical position risks a strike to your face! You should avoid bringing the racquet much past the vertical position as your body position may encourage the horse to stop and you may struggle to return the racquet back to the safe position ready to throw it. When held behind you it is also vulnerable to a back swing from your opponent.
The Backwards Cradle Cradling takes a lot of practise to become competent at it, but pays great dividends in the game.
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TROUBLESHOOTING – TACKLING AND CRADLING Again, regular practice will often overcome most faults.
Fault Strike is not effective
Cradler easily avoids the 180 strike Tackler’s racquet gets caught in their own tack/leg etc.
Fault Ball flies out of the racquet on the backwards cradle Tackler is still able to hit the ball during a forwards cradle Tackler too easily dislodges the ball
TACKLING Cause/Remedy Tackler is hitting the racquet, not the ball More force required Flat of the racquet is being used rather than the side Cradler is too good! Try harder! Tackler is too rhythmic (cradler is anticipating the strike) – try mixing it up a little! The 180 strike is most effective when the cradler does not know it’s coming Wait for the cradler to look away before striking Put more weight in the tackle side leg and lean out slightly CRADLING Cause/Remedy Racquet is not being twisted enough as it is brought backwards Cradler is not pushing the racquet forward as well as upwards Use a mixture of forwards and backwards cradle so the tackler cannot guess how you will respond Try to anticipate when the tackler will strike and respond appropriately Racquet is not being twisted in the forwards cradle Cradler is not pushing the racquet forward as well as upwards Practise, practise, practise
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PICK UPS Often the ball will end up on the floor and it will be necessary to pick it up. There are two basic pick-ups, nearside and offside. The basic principles are the same for both.
Nearside Pick Up (N/S) Ideally you should position your horse such that the ball is slightly to the side of the horse. Any further out will make it difficult to reach out, any less and the horse may end up running over the ball.
The motion of the horse will bring the ball to approximately here to start the pickup swing, slightly behind the leg
Initial Ball Position
To make it easier to reach down the extended grip should be taken prior to leaning down to pick up. The ‘open’ palm should always face the way the horse is going otherwise the strength in the grip is lost. It is also easier to pick up if you are riding on a slight curve with the ball on the inside. Do not make the curve too tight otherwise you are Turning on the Ball, see the Safety Rules.
Palm Facing Forward
Palm Facing Backwards
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The racquet head should then be pushed in to the ground just behind the ball and held there. Downwards pressure should be applied to the racquet to encourage it to ‘dig’ in under the ball; this will be evident by the racquet bending. Younger players may struggle to achieve this due to a lack of strength, but should be encouraged to try. The player should avoid dragging the racquet along the ground when approaching the ball as this may cause the racquet to ‘bounce’ over the ball at the final contact point. The forward motion of the horse will then bring the net over the ball. The racquet should then be slid forward along the ground to scoop up the ball and the racquet brought up to the horizontal. As the racquet reaches the horizontal it must be twisted quickly through ~180o and back again to prevent the ball flying out.
Bringing the ball up
N/S Picking Up- Initial Contact Note: Bend on the Racquet 1
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Twisting the Racquet at the top of the swing
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Care must be taken to keep the heels down and the body balanced (as in a light seat for jumping) otherwise the player risks falling off should the horse move sideways. The rein hand should be kept on the centreline of the horse and not allowed to slide down either side of the horse’s withers otherwise this may turn the horse as you approach the ball. The rider’s weight should be down in the nearside stirrup, allowing them to lean out slightly to increase their reach.
Light Seat, Heels Down, Weight in nearside stirrup
Heels Too Far Back
Offside Pick Up (O/S) The basic principles (racquet grip and position etc.) for the offside pick up are the same as for the nearside except the racquet is brought over to the offside. The O/S pick up is more difficult than the N/S and beginners will find it easier to position themselves to pick up N/S initially until they gain confidence. The ball will need to be a little closer to the horse than for a N/S pick up due to the shorter reach. The rider’s weight will now be in the offside stirrup. The racquet is brought down on to the offside to be positioned behind the ball as for a N/S pick up. The ‘open’ palm should be facing forwards. As for the N/S pick up the player will need to be balanced in a light seat, keeping their heels down with the rein hand kept on the centreline of the horse.
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Palm Facing Forward
Palm Facing Backwards
The Offside Pick Up
Note: Palm facing forwards, weight in offside stirrup, heels down (both sides)
Initial Position for an Offside Pick Up The rider is not allowed to keep the racquet and ball on the offside so they must be brought up quickly and back over to the nearside. The twisting of the racquet to prevent the ball flying out can be done as the racquet comes over the horse’s head and down to the safe position.
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TROUBLESHOOTING – PICK UPS PICK UPS Fault Cause/Remedy The racquet rolls over the ball Insufficient pressure is being put on the racquet. Push down harder The initial point of the racquet touching the ground may be too far behind the ball. The point should be as close to the ball as possible Racquet hand may be facing backwards causing a loss of power in the action. Ball is just pushed along the Insufficient pressure is being put on the racquet. ground Push down harder The attempt to bring up the racquet is too early, allow the horse’s movement to angle the racquet head over the ball first Racquet hand may be facing backwards causing a loss of power in the action. Ball flies out of the racquet on the The final twist at the top of the stroke is not being up stroke carried out correctly Racquet may be too ‘quick’. See Ch1 The Speed of the Racquet Player cannot reach the ground Horse is too tall ! This need not stop the player with the racquet playing the sport. They will need to learn to allow others to pick up the ball while they are taking players etc. Player must practise leaning down while keeping their balance. This can be done at halt and even without a racquet. How far down the horse’s leg can they reach? Horse turns away or over the ball The rein hand is not being held central over the horse’s neck but is sliding down one side. Work on keeping the rein hand central The rein contact is too loose allowing the horse to choose its own track. Maintain a suitable contact for the horse. Horse is responding to confusing leg signals. Apply the correct leg pressure to counteract the horse’s movement. Normal horsemanship rules apply. Horse stops over the ball Too much contact or too little leg. Normal horsemanship rules apply.
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NECK REINING As one hand of the player is holding the racquet only one hand is available to manage the reins. Polocrosse horses and players must be taught how to neck rein which is similar to how Western riders control their horses. Normal reins can be used to neck rein, but they will need to be bridged and possibly taped together to make it easier for beginners to manage them. Bridging the reins makes then a lot shorter and provides a ‘handle’ for the rein hand to manage them. The rein hand should lie horizontal with the fingers under the palm, not, as in Western Riding, with the hand held vertically.
Reins Bridged and Taped
The Player’s View, Hand Horizontal
The action of neck reining can be split in to two separate consecutive actions which will eventually flow in to one movement once practised. Step 1: It is still necessary to encourage the horse to turn its head and neck in the direction you wish them to turn in the same way that opening out the inside rein does when using two reins. To achieve this, the rein hand is twisted horizontally to either the left or right (dependent upon the direction to be turned) putting tension on the inside rein and asking the horse to bend in that direction.
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Tension down this rein
Tension down this rein
Turning Left
Turning Right
Step 2: The hand and rein is then moved sideways in the direction you wish to turn, thus laying the outside rein against the horse’s neck and encouraging them to move away from it. Care should be taken not to over exaggerate this movement as too much tension will be put on the outside rein which will encourage the horse to turn its head in the wrong direction. When first teaching a horse to neck rein use the corners of an arena when the horse knows that it will be turning. Once they have understood the idea neck reining can be tried in the middle of the arena or field. The outside leg should be held against the horse’s side to encourage them to turn. Beginner riders may struggle to use leg pressure so this can be left out for them. The horse’s head should always remain virtually vertical when neck reining. Twisting of the head away from the direction of the turn indicates that too much tension is being put on the outside rein.
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INTRODUCING THE HORSE TO THE RACQUET AND BALL WARNING: Some horses will have some adverse reaction to the racquet and ball, but usually this can be trained out of them by repetition. If possible the introduction should be carried out in a quiet area with a confident rider/instructor as this is less likely to introduce additional stress to the horse.
Introducing the Racquet It is best to first introduce the horse to the racquet without a rider on board in case there is a very adverse reaction. All movements should be slow and gentle so as not to startle the horse. However, some horse do accept the racquet more easily when held by a rider in the saddle so use which ever system works best for your horse. Putting the horse in a bridle rather than a head collar gives better control and encourages the horse to relax more. Stand in front of the horse with the reins in your hands and the racquet behind your back. Slowly bring the racquet up to the horse and gently stroke it down the side of the horse’s neck. As the horse has poor line of sight immediately in front of its face the racquet should be gently brought towards then from the side, not directly ahead. If the horse should react and step back then allow it to move away but walk with it until it realises that the racquet is not going to harm it. Trying to make the horse stand still will only increase its fear. Once the horse is happy to have the racquet rubbed on the side of its neck you can gently move it around the rest of the neck, the shoulders and over the face and muzzle. Eventually the horse should become used to the racquet and come to ignore it. If a horse continues to show an adverse reaction do not continue to attempt desensitise it for too long as it will become stressed, only increasing its fear of the racquet. Put the horse away and try again another time. In the mean time a racquet can be hung from the roof of the horse’s stable at head height so that it gets use to having it around, but be careful it does not react adversely in the stable too! Once the horse has got used to the racquet without a rider put the rider on and give them the reins. Repeat the above process with the person on the ground holding the reins close to the bit. Once the horse is happy with that give the rider the racquet and ask them to walk about gently stroking the horse’s neck and head with the racquet. Then move on to gently swinging the racquet either side of the horse’s face so they get used to seeing the racquet moving around them. Again, the horse should eventually become used to the racquet and come to ignore it. Warn the rider that if they feel unsafe at any time they should just drop the racquet and return to two hands on the reins.
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Introducing the Ball Horses have evolved with little fear of flying objects as they are not predated by these, however, objects on or close to the ground can be very scary (witness the panic when a plastic bag is spotted!) so the most likely adverse reaction will come from a rolling/bouncing ball. For this exercise the riders should ignore the ball and simply concentrate on controlling their horses. They should not have their racquets and should have two hands on the reins. With the horse(s) on a circle and the thrower in the centre, roll a ball (doesn’t have to be a polocrosse ball) at each horse so that it passes in front of them. Riders should keep their ‘legs on’ to encourage the horse to keep moving forward. Once the horse is happy with this roll the ball between their legs, under their bellies and then move on to having the ball bouncing as it approaches them. Change the rein and repeat. With repetition the horse should become acclimatised to the racquet and the ball and have no fear of them. They are still likely to react if the ball hits them so be aware of this in the initial lessons. Horse may take a number of lessons before they are completely happy with the ball and racquet so take care at the beginning of each lesson in case they have become re-sensitised.
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THE LAYOUT OF THE PITCH The actual dimensions of the pitch are 146.5m long by 55m wide. and the penalty lines are 27.5m from the back lines. However, these dimensions can be altered to suit the available space as required. Goal posts are 2.5m apart and the ‘D’ is 10m in radius.
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POLOCROSSE TACK AND TURNOUT When playing in the UKPA there are very specific requirements for tack of the horse. These are primarily for safety reasons.
Polocrosse Reins
Footwear
Bit Tail Tied Up Breastplate Overgirth
Over reach boots on all four legs
Bandages/boots on all four legs
The Horse Over reach Boots (Bell boots) (mandatory) – Fitted over all four feet as there is very close contact between with a risk of damage to the coronet band
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Bandages/Boots (mandatory). – Fitted to all four feet. The lower leg should be covered from just below the knee/hock to just above the coronet band. Special bandages (polo bandages) can be purchased which do not require gamgee underneath The ends of the bandages should be additionally secured using PVC insulating tape to prevent them coming loose during play. Overgirth (mandatory) – As in cross-country, an Overgirth gives added stability to the saddle. Some stock saddles have an integral Overgirth fitted already. Breastplate (mandatory) – Prevents the saddle slipping back . Bit (mandatory) – Bits with protruding side pieces/bars are not allowed as these may become entangled in other horse’s tack or a player’s racquet. Bitless bridles are not permitted. Polocrosse Reins – These are thicker and shorter than normal reins as they are held in one hand. Normal reins can be modified to the same effect, see the Neck Reining Chapter. Tail – Though not mandatory it is normal for the tail to be plaited, rolled up and taped so as not to become entangled in racquets etc. Saddle - Any type of saddle can be used (except western saddles with a roping horn). Both GP saddles and stock saddles are common in polocrosse. The Australian stock saddle gives improved stability to the rider. When not involved in UKPA events it is up to the person in charge of the training as to how much of the additional tack is necessary dependent upon the nature of the training.
The Rider Hat (mandatory) – Any hat to the latest standard is acceptable. The Australian white style of hat is very common in the UKPA. Footwear (mandatory) – Long boots or short boots and chaps are acceptable. Leg Wear – White jeans or jodhpurs are worn for tournaments. Team Shirts – Each club has its own layout of shirts to set them apart from other players. These have the position numbers (1, 2 or 3) printed on the back and the arm and sometimes the front (The rider in the picture has a club jacket on to prior to playing).
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NOTES
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Chapter 2 Basic Game Rules
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PLAYING RULES The full UKPA Polocrosse Rulebook can be downloaded from the UKPA website at www.ukpolocrosse.co.uk/ukpa/. The majority of the rules are there for safety reasons, designed to protect the rider and the horse. These safety rules should be taught at a very early stage so they become natural before the players start to get speed up on their ponies.
In A Nutshell Three players from each team line up against each other and attempt to get their No1 player in to the Goal scoring area with the ball and then for the No1 to throw it between the goalposts.
Playing Numbers All players are allowed in the mid-field area between the goal scoring areas. No.1 – This is the ‘Attack’ player and is the only one from the team allowed in the opponent’s goal scoring area (see pitch layout). They are the only ones able to score a goal. No.2 – The mid-field player. Not allowed in either goal scoring areas. No.3 – The ‘Defence’ player. Only member allowed in their team’s goal scoring area.
How the Game Starts - The Line Up The game starts (and restarts after each goal) with a line out on the ‘T’ at the centreline of the pitch. Each section lines up on their side of the pitch, side by side with the other team, in front of the umpire who then throws the ball over their heads (but low enough for the ball to be caught in the players’ racquets). After each goal the side of the pitch where the sections line up is alternated to make it fair. If the ball should go off the edge of the pitch off a horse the game recommences with a lineout where the ball left the pitch. Line outs are also used for other restarts – see the rulebook for further details.
Crossing the Penalty Line When entering or leaving the goal scoring area while carrying the ball the player must bounce it over the line such that they do not carry it as they actually cross the penalty line. This is to stop players simply galloping down the pitch and throwing the ball in to the goal. The ball must touch the ground on the far side of the line before the player may catch it. The ball may be passed over the line in either direction to a player without it needing to touch the ground.
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Penalties When given a penalty the player must throw the ball at least 10m before they, or anyone else, is allowed to touch it. If the penalty taker throws the ball and picks it up themselves it must touch the ground (bounce) before they catch it. A direct pass to another player does not need to touch the ground first. No one is allowed to interfere with the player taking the penalty until they have also travelled at least 10m. All other players must start at least 10m away from where the penalty is to be taken. The penalty is usually taken from where the infringement took place, but not always. See the rulebook for full details. For beginners and younger players flexibility should be allowed in the 10m throw rule; as long as a good effort has been made to throw the ball this can suffice.
How a Goal is Scored Only the No1 is able to score as they are the only attack player allowed in the goal scoring area. The No3 cannot score an own-goal. A goal is scored when the No1 deliberately throws the ball between the goal posts (at any height, even above the actual height of the posts) from within the goal scoring area but outside the ‘D’ (by the position of the horse’s feet). For example it cannot be from a bad pick up when the ball leaves the racquet or because the No3 has hit the ball out of the No1’s racquet, these are not deliberate shots. It is up to the umpire to decide whether the throw was deliberate.
Carrying the Ball A player may only carry the ball on the nearside (stickside). Should the ball cross over the centreline of the horse (except when in the motion of throwing the ball over arm) it is a penalty to the opposition. When picking up offside the ball must be immediately brought over to the nearside.
When the Ball Goes Out of Play If the ball (or a player carrying the ball) steps on or over the side or back line then a penalty is awarded to the other side, unless the ball went out off a horse. The penalty is taken from where the ball exited the pitch. If the ball went out off a horse the game restarts with a line out where the ball went out (unless it is close to the backline or penalty line when it is moved 5m away for practical reasons).
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SAFETY RULES Line of the Ball (LotB) The rule book defines the Line of the Ball (LotB) as “an imaginary line running along the line the ball is travelling (or had travelled along before stopping) along the ground and continuing indefinitely past its present point”. Crossing the LotB could result in a dangerous collision, commonly called a ‘T’ bone. Players must learn to recognise the LotB at any particular moment and avoid cutting across it. Entry on to the LotB is only allowed at a very small angle to the line or far enough in front of play for it to be safe. How far in front of play is ‘safe’ will depend on the speed of the players following the LotB; the higher the speed the greater the required distance. A Travel and Line of the ball
(LotB) B
Player ‘A’ has the LotB and Player ‘B’ must Give Way to them
Stopping/Turning on the Ball This rule is connected to the LotB rule. Players must not stop on the ball (Eg. If they miss a pickup), but must continue on past it until it is safe to turn/stop. Stopping on the ball could result in the other five players careening in to the back of the player who has stopped! Players must also not turn on the ball while running over it or just past it, as this could again result in the other five players following the ball careening in to the side of the turning player, a ‘T’ bone! Players must check behind themselves first to see whether it is safe to turn or stop.
Crossing In Front of or Behind a Horse When crossing in front of or behind another horse you must always leave a sufficient gap between the horses to prevent one tripping the other. Basically, if a horse has to lift its head over another horse’s rump in order to turn then they are too close. At higher speeds the distance will need to be greater. The player changing direction is at fault.
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Contact Between Horses ‘Riding Off’ and ‘Doubling Up’ Physical contact is allowed between horses but only in a gentle and controlled fashion. The initial contact must not be sufficient to move the horse off its line of travel. Once contact has been made the pressure can be applied to move the horse or block its movement. Such contact is known as ‘riding off’. Doubling up is where two players position themselves either side of an opponent in order to either prevent them moving away or to attempt to tackle them and free the ball. Any movement of the middle player from their line of travel is not allowed, even after initial contact. Applying too much pressure on the middle horse could lead to the horse tripping. Such movement is called ‘sandwiching’ and is strictly illegal. Wedging is similar to sandwiching, but the two outside players are slightly ahead of the player in the middle, forming a wedge which prevents the middle player’s horse from moving forward. This may result in the middle horse decelerating rapidly unseating the rider. This too is strictly illegal.
A potential ‘sandwich if the middle horse is moved off its line of travel
A ‘wedge’, the middle horse has no exit forward and may decelerate rapidly
Striking an Opponent or an Opponent’s Horse Hitting an opponent or their horse with your racquet, even if accidentally, is illegal and usually results in a Goal on the Board penalty against you.
Down Hit on an Opponent’s Racquet Hitting an opponent’s racquet is only allowed with the racquet moving in an upwards direction as otherwise you risk striking the horse or the opponent themselves.
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NOTES
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Chapter 3 How the Game Plays
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BASIC PLAYER ROLES For beginner players the following basic roles should always be kept in mind. No1 – Attack player. They should always be hunting the ball if their team does not have it. No2 - Midfield Player. They have two basic roles, dependent upon who has the ball. 1. If their team has the ball then they should ‘take’ an opposition player, preferably the No3, and keep them away from the player with the ball. 2. If their team does not have the ball they should ’hunt’ the ball along with the No1. No3 – Defence Player. They should always have their eye on the opposition No1 and never be far away from them. This should override any considerations about where the ball is. While their team does not have the ball the No1 and the No2 should be doubling up to retrieve it and the No3 will be alongside the opposition No1 keeping them away from the ball. If the No2 or 3 have the ball then they can either pass it to the No1 and then revert to their normal roles, or take the ball up the field and pass it to their No1 over the penalty line.
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LINE OUTS Each game starts and restarts after a goal is scored with a line out. All the players line up in front of the umpire in their respective sections; No1 at the front, then the No. 2 with the No.3 at the back. Horses should be virtually nose to tail. Players should be close enough to the opposition that the horses nearly touch. The No1’s horse’s front feet should be just behind the front line of the ‘T’. Pitch Sideline
Umpire
The ‘T’ The umpire will throw the ball in over the heads of the players, but low enough for them to be able to reach it with their racquets. Players will either try and catch the ball or hit the opponent’s racquet in order to stop them catching the ball. The rules for hitting racquets in the Line out are the same as for the rest of the game, Eg. Hitting upwards only. Players should have their racquets held in the extended position to extend their reach and in a light seat ready to stretch up if needs be. Beginners will find it easier to have their racquets ‘up’ initially but the real trick in catching the ball is not to be there first, but to be there in front of the opponent’s racquet. This will initially involve having the racquet held horizontally by the horse’s head before reaching forward and upwards as the umpire throws the ball in. If the ball is immediately knocked out of play the line out is taken again.
The Lineout
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Line Out Tactics It is the role of all players to attempt to catch the ball with possession being the key, but there are basic sub-roles for each player. However, each lineout is different so there are no concrete rules. The No1 should try and push their horse forward as the umpire throws the ball and stretch out to place their racquet in front of the umpire’s hand in an attempt to catch the ball. The No1 on the umpire’s left (from the umpire’s point of view) should try and push forward and then turn to pass in front of the other No1 because if they should catch the ball they may well have an easy run down to the goal and score. The No1 on the right of the umpire should push their horse forward to try and block the other No1’s path. The No2s are the most likely to catch the ball as they have time to react as to where the ball is going. They should be on their toes, ready to stretch up to snatch the ball. The No3’s main role is to pick the ball up should it go out the back of the line out. This initially overrides their role to follow the No 1 (see Basic Player Roles), but they should immediately revert to that role if they do not pick up the ball from the back of the lineout.
Basic Roles in the Lineout No2’s Area No3’s Area No1s’ Area
No3’s Area No2’s Area
The above diagram shows areas on the ground that each player should control if the ball should not be caught by a player. It also shows the basic directions each player will exit the lineout. For the No2s these are only relevant if they have caught the ball.
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BASIC AREA WORK Once the No1 has taken or been given the ball in the goal scoring area it becomes a game of tactics between the No1 and the No3. The No1 will try and evade the No3 to get in to a good scoring position and the No3 will try and keep that from happening. It is likely that eventually the No1 will score, and the best the No3 can do is slow this process down and hope for a mistake by the No1. The No3 should not become disheartened simply because the No1 scores.
The No1 The No1 should always be trying to go for the easy goal and should not allow the No3 to push them in to rushing the shot. They should always be moving and should use the whole of the goal scoring area in order to squeeze past the No3. They should avoid simply riding back and forwards across the front of the goal with tight turns at either end as this will quickly wear their horse out. Instead they can move in a figure of eight, always attempting to drive towards the goal as they turn towards it.
If unsuccessful continue past the goal and try again
Turn and drive towards the goal
Turn and drive towards the goal
Goal Scoring Area
They can attempt to draw the No3 out to the corners of the area and then ride past them to score. If the No3 attempts to hit the No1’s racquet while the horses are on the move the No1 can use that momentary lack of horse control by the No3 to stop and turn away towards the goal to shoot. The No1 should avoid getting too close to the side, back or penalty lines as going over these will lose them possession of the ball.
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The No3 The No3 will often have to simply react to what the No1 is doing, but there are some basic ‘rules’ to keep in mind. As the No3 is not carrying the ball they can have two hands on the reins which gives them greater horse control and so an advantage over the No.1. At a beginner level the No3 should always attempt to keep themselves between the No1 and the goal. When in close contact the No1 should always be slightly in front of them so they are in their line of sight. Also, if the No1 gets behind the No3 they are likely to be able to turn and score from there.
The No3 Keeps the No1 in their Sight The closer the No1 is to the front of the ‘D’ the closer the No3 should be to them, because that is where it is easiest to shoot from. When the No1 is in the corners of the area the No3 can afford to move away from the No1. This means the No1’s horse will be travelling further than the No3’s and so tire more quickly. When in close contact and the No1 turns the No3 should turn away from the No1, hind quarters to hind quarters, otherwise the No3 will end up on the wrong side of the No1. When further apart the No3 should turn towards the No1. See below
Turning Away When in Close Contact, The No1 is turning left
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Turning Towards When Not in Close Contact; The No1 is turning Either Left or Right
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PLAYING IN AN ARENA Polocrosse is best played on grass on a full sized pitch, but this is not always practical for space or weather reasons. In an arena there are a number of exercises which can be used which improve skills but are also great fun. See the next section on Skills and Drills. If a game is to be played then penalty lines and ‘Ts’ can be scraped out in the surface. Flour or salt can also be used for slightly more obvious lines. Goals can be painted on the end walls of the arena or suitably sized supports taken as the goal posts, they don’t have to be 2.5m apart. Players should be warned that they are not to ‘squash’ other players against the sides. For better (faster) players it may be safer to play only two players per side in smaller arenas, the No1s and 3s, this reduces the number of horses in close proximity with each other.
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Chapter 4 Skills and Drills Exercises
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SKILLS AND DRILLS - EXERCISES The following exercises can be used to improve polocrosse skills as well as providing fun ideas to introduce to polocrosse lessons either in an arena or on a field. It is recommended that, where practical, a competitive aspect be included to add further interest to the exercises. They include both on horse and on foot exercises. On foot practice provides a much better platform to improve stick skills. These exercises are specifically intended for beginners, if more advanced exercises are needed please contact the UKPA Chief Coach on coaching@ukpolocrosse.co.uk.
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Title/Description The Rounded Rectangle Aim/Skill Developed
Passing, accuracy of passing, catching, pick-ups, control of horse
Duration
As required
Target Level/Age
Beginner
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
On Horse All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
either Group
Exercise When beginners start to learn to play polocrosse it’s hard to do any traditional circle passing exercises as they struggle to throw balls out the side, over the centre line of the horse etc. So instead you can use a passing exercise with a difference. Imagine a rounded rectangle within a rectangle. You need to set your riders off on a left hand rein around the rounded rectangle (this is because most will probably be right handed) and then stand at one corner of the rectangle. As the riders approach you they can pass straight to you and then they curve away to their left around the corner of the rounded rectangle and you can pass them the ball back or roll the ball along the floor for them to pick up. As they approach you they can throw either underarm or over arm passes, it’s a good way to get them practising both but make sure they don’t just always do their preferred shot, tell them which one they are to do and then change after a few goes. You can also do the exercise on the right rein and then get them to practice catching the ball from you on their non stick side or picking up on the non stick side (again assuming they are right handed)
C
Riders ride the red line. Coach positioned at C.
Change the pace from walk through trot to canter Riders to be on the correct diagonal and canter lead Set a point to throw from and increase distance to you from that point Variations/Development
Riders not to get too close to each other or the coach Safety Aspects
Cones/ground markers Resources Related Exercises
Circle Work
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Title/Description Passing Scores Aim/Skill Developed
Passing
Duration
As required
Target Level/Age
All levels
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Either All
Exercise Players pass the ball to each other Scoring the pass, you score the quality of the pass as the receiver; 5 points for a perfect pass (receiver does not move racquet), 4 points for a small movement of racquet, 3 points for a big movement of racquet, 2 points for a small movement of horse, 1 point for large movement of horse, 0 points if the ball is dropped or a bad pass.
Increase distance between players Throw over arm, backwards, sideways etc. Variations/Development
Nil Safety Aspects
Resources
Related Exercises
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Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Pairs
Title/Description Numbers Game Aim/Skill Developed
Riding away from a group, horsemanship, pick ups, tackling, one on one play, doubling up, teaches horses to stand
Duration
As required
Target Level/Age
All
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Either All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Group
Exercise Riders stand in a line and are given a number; coach throws the ball out and calls out two numbers. The two players called race to pick up ball and the winner is the person who picks it up and returns it to the coach. Player without the ball tries to prevent the player with the ball getting back. Explain what to do when; Two players side by side – take out the opposing horse first, keep pushing back Too far behind – assume the player in front is going to miss the pick up If played on foot do not allow sticks to be hit but require players to bounce the ball a certain number of times before returning (For example)
Ball Throw
C Call out three or more numbers to encourage doubling up Require players to achieve certain tasks before returning, eg. Bounce the ball, must be an offside pick up Horses to originally face away from play to practice turns Variations/Development Can be played on foot. Require players to carry out certain actions prior to returning, such as bouncing the ball.
Safety Aspects
Area of play to be clear of obstructions and other players Coach not to throw ball too close to obstacles Coach to position themselves to discourage cantering back to the horse line Ensure riders called out are suitable to each other in size and ability. Coach to place self in safe position
Resources Protect the Ball Related Exercises
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Title/Description Seven Skills Aim/Skill Developed
General Horsemanship (agility, balance, acceleration), passing skills/accuracy, communication skills, 7 basic stick skills
Duration
As required
Target Level/Age
All
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Horse All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Exercise Players on an individual basis carry out the exercises to complete the 7 skills. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Forward pick up (near side) Backwards pick up (near side) Forward pick up (off side) Backwards pick up (off side) Bounce 10 yard throw (near side) 10 yard throw (off side)
Introduce time limit Develop from walk to canter dependent on level Must complete each skill before moving to the next Variations/Development
Ensure sufficient space Monitor players to ensure there are no collisions Safety Aspects
Ball each Resources
Related Exercises
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Either Individual
Title/Description Slalom Aim/Skill Developed
Encourages the horse to be more flexible in slight movements and helps players in picking balls up that are in difficult positions.
Duration
As required
Target Level/Age
All
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Horse All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Individual
Exercise Place a line of stakes/cones/poles as you would for bending. Players practice bending up and down the cones. A ball is placed at a 2 o’clock position behind a cone and players have to pick the ball up as they bend in and out down the line. Ball can also be placed at end cone to be picked up on the turn. .
Ball Ball
Near side then off side pick ups Increase pace for higher levels Reduce gaps between cones for higher levels Variations/Development
Safety Aspects
Stakes/poles/cones Resources
Related Exercises
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Title/Description Possession Game Aim/Skill Developed
Game Skills, use of space,
Duration
Min 15 Minutes
Target Level/Age
All
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Horse All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Group
Exercise No goals or pitch needed and can be played with up to 10 players, dependent on arena size. Two teams but no positions allocated. In an area with defined boundaries (e.g. indoor or outdoor arena or a rectangle marked out by cones), a ball is thrown in (via usual line out). Teams keep possession of the ball within their players by passing to another team member. The players must not keep possession of the ball longer than 5 seconds (for example). Encourage teams to use the space and ride out away from the group in order to get a better position to catch the ball. Winning team is the team that has the greater possession during the time period.
Decrease time allowed for each player to hold ball
Variations/Development
All polocrosse rules apply. May require mounted ‘umpire’ dependent on arena size Safety Aspects
Resources
Possibly cones. Defined area
Related Exercises 60
Title/Description Circle Work - Ridden Aim/Skill Developed
Catching, throwing, pick-ups, horse fitness
Duration
As required
Target Level/Age
All
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Horse All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Group
Exercise This is a basic exercise which is good for a warm up prior to other exercises. It practises basic skills as well as warming up horses and riders. Ensure the horses have been walked well before attempting to trot and trotted well before being cantered. Use frequent changes of rein. Riders to travel in a 20m circle around the coach(es). Coach(es) to throw balls to players to catch and throw back. Change rein to allow over arm throws/offside pick-ups
Change pace dependent on ability and horse fitness Do pick-ups near side and off side, players to throw the ball for themselves. Players to throw balls to each other, player behind, player in front etc. Variations/Development Use more than one ball, one ball thrown forward other backwards etc.
Safety Aspects
Ensure players keep their distance from the coach Warn players to move off the circle if they need to stop or slow Riders to turn outwards when changing the rein to prevent a risk to the coach
Resources
Related Exercises
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Title/Description Relay Games – On Horse Aim/Skill Developed
Basic skills, horse fitness
Duration
As required
Target Level/Age
Beginner/ Novice
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Horse All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Group
Exercise Split the players in to a suitable number of groups dependent upon space. Players may all start from the same point or groups to be split into two and players run between each section Players must carry out various drills each time they run and the first team to complete wins.
Bounce the ball a number of times do a 10 metre throw Do a certain number of pick-ups, near side and off side
Introduce horsemanship aspects;
Halt and reinback Halt and reinback, canter/trot away Halt, reinback, about turn and canter/trot away
Change pace of exercise walk, trot, canter dependent upon ability
Variations/Development
Ensure sufficient space around groups for horses to return at a canter Safety Aspects
Balls Resources
Related Exercises 62
Title/Description Basket Ball Aim/Skill Developed
Throwing, catching, teamwork, communication, moving in to space, fitness
Duration
6 minute chukkas
Target Level/Age
All
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Foot All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Group
Exercise Set out a suitably sized arena with cones or otherwise. Split group in to teams of 3 or 4 (more if size of arena permits and if necessary). Coach/non players to act as umpires Aim is to pass the ball between all the team’s players and the final player to receive the ball in a designated area at the end of the pitch (over the line, inside a marked ‘D’ area) whereupon a goal is scored.
Players start the game with a normal line out. Players with the ball may only move while bouncing the ball. No stick hitting allowed. If the ball touches is touched/caught by the opposite team the ball must be passed between all players again before scoring. No body or racquet contact allowed otherwise a penalty throw – all players move 5 metres away
Multiple Groups can be set up as a tournament
Variations/Development
Emphasis no hitting of sticks or body contact Safety Aspects
Possibly cones or similar Resources
Related Exercises 63
Title/Description Penalty Practice Aim/Skill Developed
Penalty Throws
Duration
15 minutes
Target Level/Age
All
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Foot All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Pairs
Exercise Players in pairs face each other 10 metres apart and throw the ball high so that it bounces just in front of the other player for them to catch after the bounce. Player then returns the ball in the same way.
10m
Ball may be thrown underarm or over arm
Variations/Development
Safety Aspects
One Ball per pair Resources
Related Exercises
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Title/Description Duelling Aim/Skill Developed
Accuracy and power of throwing, catching, reactions
Duration
As required
Target Level/Age
All
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Foot All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Groups/pairs
Exercise Split players in to teams of four or pairs as required. Requires at least one umpire, preferably two. Individual opponents face each other in turn standing on short blocks (jump blocks, bales of hay/straw etc.) approx 10m apart as required (see Development). Players (the thrower) take it in turns to throw the ball in an attempt to get it past their opponent (the receiver). The ball must pass within catch distance of the opponent and must not touch the floor before it reaches them. If the ball gets past the receiver, the receiver falls off the block or attempts to catch the ball but drops it the thrower scores a point. If the ball hits the receiver directly, the receiver catches the ball, the ball hits the ground before reaching the receiver or passes outside the receivers’ reach the receiver scores a point.
Better players can be closer together Younger players can be closer together Can be run as a tournament, in pairs or in teams Variations/Development
Highlight that balls are not to be thrown at the player Blocks to be kept short to avoid risk from falling Safety Aspects
Two blocks Resources
Related Exercises 65
Title/Description Over the Shoulder Aim/Skill Developed
Reaction times, catching
Duration
Max 10 minutes
Target Level/Age
All
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Foot All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Pairs
Exercise In pairs players (the thrower) stand behind their other pair player (the catcher). The thrower throws the ball over the catcher’s shoulder by hand. The catcher has to catch the ball downwards (not just letting the ball fall in to their net). Swap positions at regular intervals. Thrower can warn the catcher the ball is coming and tell them which shoulder if required.
If a wall is available the thrower can bounce the ball against the wall first (easier) Bounce the ball on the ground by the catcher’s feet Variations/Development
Nil Safety Aspects
One ball per pair Resources
Related Exercises 66
Title/Description Circle Work – On foot Aim/Skill Developed
Catching, throwing, pick-ups, communication, ice-breaker
Duration
As required
Target Level/Age
All
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Foot All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Group
Exercise Basic training exercise with many variations. Good used as a warm up prior to other exercises. Players arrange in a circle around the coach. Size of circle dependent upon the ability of the players. Coach to throw to each player in turn and receive ball back. One player in the centre remains facing one direction and throws the ball to each player on the circle in turn. They must use the appropriate throw dependent upon where the receiving player is positioned. Change centre player after each round. Circle players to turn through 90 o after each round so they too have to throw from different positions. Free throw between all players by first calling out their name. Introduce more than one ball to be thrown, players to turn 90o to change type of throw. Good as an ice-breaker Juggling (see separate exercise)
As above
Variations/Development
Nil Safety Aspects
Balls Resources
Related Exercises
Miscellaneous Exercises – On Foot Relay Games – On Foot
67
Title/Description Relay Games – On Foot Aim/Skill Developed
Basic Skills, fitness
Duration
As required
Target Level/Age
Beginner
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Foot All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Group
Exercise Split the players in to a suitable number of groups dependent upon space. Players may all start from the same point or groups to be split into two and players run between each section Players must carry out various drills each time they run and the first team to complete wins.
Bounce the ball a number of times do a 10 metre throw throw the ball against a wall throw the ball against the wall then spin around before catching it If hoops are available the ball must be bounced inside the hoop
Variations/Development
Nil Safety Aspects
Hoops Resources
Related Exercises
Miscellaneous exercises – On foot Circle Work – On Foot
68
Title/Description Volleyball Aim/Skill Developed
Throwing, catching, team spirit,
Duration
Min 10 minutes
Target Level/Age
All
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
Foot All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Groups
Exercise Split in to groups of 4-6. Rules similar to volleyball. Size of court depends on number of players and width of net Ball is ‘served’ from the back right corner, server to be outside play area. All throws must be underarm Players may pass the ball between themselves, max three throws overall. Players may not pass to themselves. A ball on the boundary line is ‘in’ A point is scored when; The ball touches the ground within the opponent’s area The opponent’s shot lands outside your area An opponent touches the net whilst throwing An opponent uses an over arm throw An opponent reaches over the net to throw or catch the ball Service moves to opponents when they score a point Team rotates clockwise each they win the serve
SERVER
Variations/Development Nil Safety Aspects Low level net, height of net at least 1m Resources
Related Exercises
69
Title/Description Miscellaneous On Foot Exercises Aim/Skill Developed
Basic Skills
Duration
As required
Target Level/Age
Beginner/ Novice
On Foot/ On Horse Target Position
On Foot All
Inside/ Outside Group/ Individual
Either Various
Exercise Individual - Mark as spot on a wall or place a hoop on the wall and practise throwing the ball on to the spot or within the hoop. Shoot from different distances, over arm, under arm, backwards etc. Group – players make as s mall a circle as practical facing each other. Coach walks around the outside then throws the ball in to the middle of the circle and players have to get the ball in to their racquet. Pairs – Stick Hitting. Players stand side by side as if on horseback and one player has the ball. The other attempts to hit it out of their racquet, use little swing and big swing techniques to hit and forward and reverse methods of avoidance
Variations/Development
Nil Safety Aspects
Resources
Related Exercises
Relay Games – on Foot Circle Work – On foot
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