Welcome When we started to contemplate the creative theme for this issue we instantly thought x-mas, darkness, parties and hangovers. December is damn cold here in Copenhagen and it can be pretty hard to keep your thoughts positive during these dark days. Thankfully, Christmas is just around the corner, which means that your calendar is probably already filled with festive plans and Christmas beer. We are lucky to have plenty of talented people around us who have really pushed themselves to provide our readers with a great range of interviews and editorials. Until next time, stay warm and enjoy! Hafrun Karls
Contributors issue no.7 Alison Withers Catherine McPhee Ida Frantsi Kristín Larsdóttir Dahl Kristján Thor Héðinsson Kristy Crowley Jóhann H. Karlsson Music Kristjan Thor Web Developer Már Gunnarsson Editor-in-Chief: Hafrún Karls firstname.lastname@example.org Graphic Design: Arnar Freyr Guðmundsson email@example.com Proofreader & Writer: Snjólaug Dís Lúðvíksdóttir firstname.lastname@example.org Photographer: Magnus Andersen email@example.com Contact: firstname.lastname@example.org Media & Sales: email@example.com Typefaces L10 & Separat / GUNMAD Greta Text Pro / Typotheque Cover Photographer: Niklas Højlund Stylist: Ellen Lofts Hair and make up: Gitte Guldhammer Model: Maja Krag at Scoop Models Cap: Freya Dalsjö Jacket: Freya Dalsjö
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Freya Dalsjö Jakkoo Gentleman Jack Bjørg Casual Mind Iceland Airwaves Kira Kira Úlfur Hansson I break horses Jukebox Diamonds Secret Garden Nicolai Bejder Low And Tide Bloggers 96.000 Lakes in a Country Steed Lord Velvet Eyes Anne Sofie Madsen Madonna
KARRUSEL BoUtiqUE KnabrostrĂŚde 1A, 1210 Copenhagen www.karruselboutique.com
Freya Dalsjรถ Words: Catherine McPhee
Bast magazine Up and coming. Two of the most fashionable words spoken in fashion. It can be the greatest form of flattery, if it fosters the link between up-and-coming and established. The scenario of next-big-thing to forgotten is often too familiar. But at Bast, we have no question about the direction of one new designer, Freya Dalsjö who is bucking the trend of what it means to be a young, successful fashion designer in Denmark. Freya´s story begins as a happy coincidence. Having spent a year in Belgium studying at The Royal Academy of Fine Arts without a clear aspiration of where to go next, Freya was encouraged, at a party, to try something new. Unlike a lot of latenight, boozy ambitions this pipe-dream turned into practice. Collaborating with Malthe Madsen, who serves as a muse-like springboard for Freya´s ideas, the eponymous label was born. Two seasons in and Freya Dalsjö is becoming, pardon to use another exhausted phrase, one to watch. It´s an almost symbiotic relationship between the two, where words unspoken are thoughts shared. “We are partners, creating ideas together”, says Malthe. “We have been friends for a long time. We sort of came together without any plans. It´s just how it worked”, adds Freya. There is a constant agreement between the two about what is good, in fashion, art and inspiration. Though based in Copenhagen, Freya’s design sensibilities lends itself to a universal artisanal aesthetic where narrative is key. Typical associations with Scandinavian style - think functionality, simplicity and a democratic approach to dress - will not be found within the vocabulary of their work. It´s drama, replete in a palette of dark tones that emphasizes tailoring and technique. Materials, like leather and latex, are manipulated, alluding
to a protective and strong silhouette. Caught somewhere between sportswear and warrior, a Freya Dalsjö woman looks ready for battle, albeit a fashionable one. There is an overt sense of luxe in their work. Only the best materials are used and are all hand-crafted in Copenhagen. Naturally the pieces have a price tag to match. For a young designer to stray from the current fashion path where, seemingly, salability means that clothing has to be “affordable” could be seen as a risky business move. What is refreshing about Freya and Malthe´s attitude is that theirs is like a big finger in the air to post- recession wariness. Yes, they know disposable fashion is de rigeur, so to challenge that with such a conviction is what sets the work apart. It seems the age of excess is being revived. Freya´s line of thought is, the more money invested in a piece of clothing, the more special it is. “If you really buy a really nice wedge, for example, or a bag, you keep it forever. It is nicer to make something that people want to keep and appreciate and feel good about owning, when there´s care put in to it”. Malthe agrees, “It´s an exclusive brand. We are not making thousands of pieces of the same clothes. We care about making something really nice, without compromise”. Things have developed for the pair at a sustainable, workable pace. Perhaps this will be their key to ongoing fashion savvy. Neither in a rush to find success nor to miss an opportunity if it comes calling, Freya and Malthe have developed their own way of working, of how they want to work. And in this age of fashion´s follow-the-leader, perhaps Freya Dalsjö has grasped a better way to find and maintain fashion success.
JAKKOO Photos: Jussi Puikkonen Words: Kristín Larsdóttir Dahl
Bast recently ran across an interesting young musician from Helsinki called Jaakko Eino Kalevi Savolainen. Jaakko´s music is hard to describe as he makes it very much his own by touching various genre´s of music. He is a self taught musician with a vast and diverse list of inspirations, that can easily be reckoned by his centered but yet soulful sound. Along with creating his music he works part time driving the tram through the streets of Helsinki, and running his own label called JEKS. He is a musician that most likely will take you out of your comfort zone a little - and we like it.
JAKKOO How would you best describe yourself as a musician? And your style of music? I would like to think that I don’t have any specific style or genre. It is somehow limiting but of course there is a style that can be found. I don’t really know what it is so I have come up with these names like: no-soul, beach and team. When I started to play music I started to play guitar but now I think my main instrument is drums, and often I start composing with drums. I am very beat-centered.
Tell us about your label JEKS. It’s my label and I have released mostly my own stuff there. 7”s, cassettes and CD’s. The name JEKS comes from my initials: Jaakko Eino Kalevi Savolainen. Next release will be Samuel Meri & Yön Syke 7” where I also play electric drums. And the next one after that will be melting hearts 7” that I am really excited about. Melting hearts is the best new artist in Finland right now. Have you any special inspirations? Or a specific way of creating your own music? How long have you been Usually I start with drums. Then involved in the music industry? the bass and then whatever is And how did it start for you? needed. Instruments inspire me We started our first band in and music itself. I think reggae/ 1995 when I was 11, influenced dub has influenced me the most. by the Wayne’s World movie and Aerosmith. It was called We heard that your part time job masterpiece and it was kind of a is driving the tram in Helsinki. progressive metal band. I started Have you been doing that for a my solo project by doing hip hop long time? And how do you like beats in the late 90’s. I wouldn’t it so far? use the term “music industry” I like it as a balancing thing to the because in Finland it is so small music. It is really easy, basically and DIY, but I have played in many just driving around the city and bands since I started. listening to music. And there is no wheel, just one joystick that goes back and forth. I have been doing it for 6-7 years now.
What are you up to at the moment? And what are your future plans? I have been finishing my next ep right now. It will be out hopefully early next year. It is less electronic and more poppy I think. We have been recording with my other bands too. At least Profeetta & Uusi Maailmanuskonto, Muuan Mies and Yön Syke are going to release an album in a few months. My future plans are to learn Spanish and to learn how to play the saxophone better. And of course to conquer the world.
Gentleman Jack Photographer: Edu Torris Stylist: Abena Ofei Hair: Alex Szabo Make up: Paula Valencia Models: Ben Palmer at Select Model Management James Hampson atÂ DNA Models David Hopkins atÂ Models 1
Coat: Pringle of Scotland Jacket: Richard James Cardigan: Richard James Shirt: Paul Smith Tie: Richard James Trousers: Marni
Sunglasses: Oliver Peoples Jacket: Paul Smith Vest: Miharayasuhiro Shirt: Ermenegildo Zegna Tie: Richard James Brooch: Luis Vuitton
Coat: Pringle of Scotland Suit: Z Zegna Shirt: Qasimi Tie: Richard James
Jacket: Ermenegildo Zegna Trousers: Etro Scarf: Etro Cardigan: Richard James Socks: Pantherella Shoes: DSquare2 Brooch: Lanvin
Suit: Hugo Shirt: DSquare2 Brooch: Lanvin Sunglasses: Cutler & Gloss
Coat: DSquare2 Jacket: Matthew Miller Shirt: Matthew Miller Bow Tie: Lanvin Trousers: Baartmans and Siegel
Jacket: Matthew Miller Shirt: Matthew Miller Bow Tie: Lanvin Trousers: Baartmans and Siegel Socks: Pantherella Shoes: Crokett and Johns
Words: Sola Photo: Bjørg Jewelry
Wildly imaginative, the Norwegian jewellery line, BJØRG jewellery, is not simply designing accessories - it's creating independent pieces that are as stylish as they are fierce. Wear them with anything or nothing - a grand look is guaranteed. It's no wonder she's caught everybody's attention and is being raved about by superstars and fashion followers the world over. With her innovativeness and brilliant manner of redefining the way we wear jewellery, Bjørg deserves praise and here at Bast, she certainly gets it; we want to know it all.
When and how did you start designing jewelry? It was actually by chance. I was never really fascinated by classical jewellery but when I lived in India a few years ago, I was mesmerized by the natural stones and gems I saw there. The culture around jewellery there really opened my eyes in the sense that jewellery was not just an ornament but could be very symbolic and hold a spiritual value. You talk about Darwin as a source of inspiration, how do his methods inspire you? Darwin is very inspiring, first of all for his curiosity and his willingness to obsess. His work has laid foundations for how we see nature and our place in it. I always think that in many ways it’s impossible to improve nature’s own design, whatever we do it is always a variation of what nature has already provided us with.
What was the concept for your latest jewellery line? The starting point this time around is where mythology and futurism meet. Trojan helmets and Masai warrior ornaments meet Scandinavian simplicity. Your designs are very original and innovative. Are you redefining the way we wear jewelry? I would not claim to be redefining jewellery as a whole, but I certainly am trying to do something unexpected, something that I hope stands out. It’s a very intuitive and individual thing to wear jewellery and sometimes I see someone wearing my pieces in ways I hadn’t thought of. I really like that idea, that things work on a larger scale, in different ways on different people.
What’s your favorite material to work with? I love doing wax moulds and just going along with the material. That is probably the most organic part of the process, it’s in your hands - no industrial interference and the possibilities are still endless. What’s the craziest material you’ve worked with? I’m constantly searching for new materials and have used remains of many insects as well as horsehair and skeletal fragments and teeth, which some might consider to be a bit crazy or scary. I never really feel like a material is crazy if it’s right for the piece. I would like to think that the craziest material is probably yet to come…
Do you have a favorite piece of jewellery? From things that I have made it would be very hard to choose one, however my mother’s wedding ring is probably the most precious to me. I always keep it close and it gives me a sense of carrying my parents story with me, which is what is really intriguing about jewellery. It can be so closely connected to stories, memories and people that are important to us. What person, alive or dead, would you most want to dress with your jewelry? Salvador Dalí would be very cool, but he was selling his own jewellery designs I think, so he wouldn’t be up for it. I know the Pope is very fond of gold so seeing him with gold-plated horsehair earrings would be a treat.
Casual mind 26
Photographer: Niklas HĂ¸jlund Stylist: Ellen Lofts Hair and make up: Gitte Guldhammer Model: Maja Krag at Scoop Models
Dress: Barbara i Gongini
Dress: Barbara i Gongini
Sweater: Anne Sofie Madsen Trousers: Rick Owens Rings: Marie Black
Sweater: Weekday Sunglasses: Mykita
Dress: Anne Sofie Madsen Rings: Marie Black
Leather jacket: Nag Earring: Cheap Monday Top: Topshop Leggings: Topshop
ICELAND AIRWAVES 2012
Words: Kristy Crowley
For any music lover, Reykjavik was the place to be earlier this month. Although the wind picked up to around 85 MPH and both spectators and musicians stood sideways for the majority of Friday, the 2nd of November, the event was still a success and one which Bast Magazine refused to miss! Airwaves has been running since 1999 and each year, it has grown in popularity. With so many amazing talents coming out of Iceland, it is no wonder that Reykjavik was chosen as the host city. It is hard to believe that there is so much musical diversity, enough to meet anyoneâ€™s needs, on an island consisting of only 300,000 people. Bast Magazine had the chance to catch up with three amazing musical forces at the festival. Check out our interviews with Ulfur Hanson (IS), I Break Horses (SE), and Kira Kira (IS).
Kira Kira Words: Kristy Crowley Photo: Antje Taiga Jandrig
From composing music to founding Kitchen Motors, a label dedicated to experimental music, Kira Kira molds together different forms of art and creates a visual and audio convergence that is aesthetically pleasing and gaining recognition, not only in Iceland, but all throughout Europe. Bast recently caught up with KristĂn to talk about her new album, Feathermagnetik. Check out what she has to say.
Where did the inspiration for Feathermagnetik come from? I feel like it came from all directions and from within, simultaneously. Each piece on the record has a life of its own that then intertwines with the others in some way. I am interested in magnetism and how we tune into each other, through all kinds of vibes, sound, presence, bad jokes, good smellâ€Ś Feathermagnetik is a fruit of various magnetic meetups with kindred musicians and artists. In Soothe, for example, I wanted to create an immersive situation through sound, where the listener would be able to access some kind of calm within,
I want to hear and what not, so there is minimal energy splurged on hesitation. The creative process was very rewarding, I spent more time on the actual recordings and How would you describe throwing around sounds with the your sound? musicians I worked with than My go-to quick and easy answer ever before. I found an amazing is that itâ€™s indescribable. The musical trust and understanding best thing to do is to get a really good set of headphones, turn with my friend, percussion wizard, Samuli Kosminen. Samuli and I the volume up as high as you have been making music together can and close your eyes. for so many years that for the first time ever, I let someone in Which of your three albums are you the most proud of and why? on the mixing and production process. I feel like the good vibes I love all my darlings equally, but we possess have taken this Feathermagnetik is probably my favorite. Maybe the fact that at this record to different heights. point, it is very clear to me what a place in itself that could serve as refuge from the chaos in and outside of their skulls.
“Music is my life and my love, so I faced my fears and found a way to let go and enjoy”
What’s next? Right now I am in Montréal presenting my movie, Grandma Lo-fi -The Basement Tapes of Sigridur Nielsdottir, at the International Documentary Festival here and in two days, I have a Super-8/Sound situation opening in an exhibition in France. After this, I will get back to finishing two split vinyls, one with Úlfur Hansson, the other with a Spanish musician called Rauelson. I’m also working on a new score for a theater production in Vienna that I am excited about. I’ve just recently recorded some gorgeous cello for that with my friend, Gyða Valtýsdóttir, who is an absolutely unique musician. This opens in Schauspielhaus, Wien in April. Do you believe in the elves that supposedly live in the woods in Iceland? No, I don’t. 38
What are you listening to right now? Tape, Musette, David Sylvian, Jónsi, Leonard Cohen, and M.I.A. Can you brief us on the Kitchen Motors label? It was a collective I started with Johann Johannsson and Hilmar Jensson, dedicated to creating a playground for experimental music in Reykjavik, instigating crazy collaborations and releasing adventurous sounds. Has your background in film, dance and art instillation enhanced your Kira Kira performances? If so, why? When all is well all of these forces unite in sweet harmony with me on stage.
Think back to your first live performance. What were your feelings (nervous, anxious, etc.)? Have those feelings changed? That’s a good one. My first Kira Kira concert was a Kitchen Motors mini festival at the ICA in London about 10 years ago and I was a nervous wreck. I had this firm conviction that every show was a matter of life or death and that’s quite the pressure to take on stage. Fortunately, this has changed dramatically through the years. I took charge of the stage fright and realized that if I was going to do this, I should really enjoy it, otherwise what’s the point?! Music is my life and my love, so I faced my fears and found a way to let go and enjoy, not just creating the music but also performing it.
Ăšlfur Hansson Words: Kristy Crowley Photo: MagnĂşs Andersen
What is it with all this amazing talent coming out of Iceland? Bast Magazine recently caught up with ever-sobusy Icelandic sensation, Ulfur Hansson, formerly known as Klive. Klive’s first album, Sweaty Psalms, was released in 2008 with rave reviews. The success of the album led to a tour throughout Germany and openings for Kira Kira in 2009. Additionally, Ulfur has toured with Swords of Chaos and has played bass guitar for Jonsi, touring internationally with the band. Most recently, Ulfur released his debut album, White Mountain. We caught up with him to talk about his new album. Tell us about your new album, White Mountain. White Mountain is my debut as Úlfur. I worked on it for two years, one of which I spent on tour with Jónsi from Sigur Rós. Every track is a collage of fieldrecordings made while traveling. I met so many interesting people on the road. For instance, I met Alexandra of Mountain Man, who did amazing vocals for the track So Very Strange. I always carry my tape recorder with me like a camera. Some tracks are composed of beats made from my nephew throwing rocks into a pond out in the woods of Iceland, I converged the noise with some other sounds, such as birds. It makes this album extremely personal to me, 40
remembering things like that and has helped me to achieve greater depth with the programming aspect of it. I guess I’m searching for a more living, breathing sound for electronic music. The title is a homage to René Daumal’s Mount Analogue and Alejandro Jodorowski’s film, Holy Mountain, but also embodies something else. Each individual sound has a very special memory attached to it, so the album creates these nostalgic nonexistent spaces, the hidden places - an amalgamation of instances and situations that couldn’t possibly exist. So I imagine this mountain as an imaginary place; a sacred place on the horizon - maybe like a connection to the universe above.
Now that I think about it, I’ve never described this to anyone because I don’t think music should be that conceptual. The cover design I made is a very unintelligible font grown from similar generative algorithms I used to create bits and pieces of the record. It was released in Japan last year, are you planning on releasing it in Europe or in the US? A small boutique label in Japan, After Hours, released a special Japanese version of White Mountain last February. It will be released worldwide on vinyl and CD February 2013, with Texas label, Western Vinyl.
“I guess I’m searching for a more living, breathing sound for electronic music.”
How did you get involved with Jonsi? Reykjavík is so small, and I guess we just started saying hello to each other on the street. Our friendship grew from there, and one day he asked me to play bass over his album. The recordings were never used but shortly after he asked me if I’d tour with him and the rest of the gang. It was amazing, and I’m extremely grateful for what I’ve learned from him and the rest of the band. You have many different styles. Can you explain how you’ve adapted such an eclectic mix of musical genres? My father is a violin maker so chamber music has always been a small part of my life. Later, I got
into more abrasive music and still listen to a lot of heavy metal. My sister, a musical role model during my adolescence, got me into some more experimental stuff and when the family got a computer with an internet connection and Napster there was no stopping me! You have played in many bands. How has this made you grow as a musician? Being in a band is the greatest thing ever. It’s like a brotherhood with beer and music. I love the smell of a worn-out rehearsal space.
Where do you most enjoy performing? In a country where I’ve never been before. What can we expect from you in the future? I’m already working on my next album... Tell us something we don’t know about you. I’m a twin. What are you listening to right now? Jorge Ben’s Força Bruta.
I break horses
Words: Kristy Crowley
I Break Horses is a Swedish indie band composed of Maria Lindén and Fredrik Balck. Their debut album, Hearts, was met with critical acclaim, both domestically and internationally. Their music has been described as both heady and sumptuous, which has led to an international fanbase and a tour throughout America. I Break Horses took time out of their busy touring schedule to answer a few questions about what can be expected next from this dynamic duo. What are your loves? Summer, Sunshine, Beautiful music What are your hates? Swedish Winters What musicians influenced you growing up? I have always liked artists that have some sort of integrity that you can hear and feel when you listen to their songs. Courage to do what they have to do as musicians, that’s inspiring. If you weren’t playing music, what would you be doing? I think I’d work at a zoo.
Where have you enjoyed performing the most? Every place has had its own charm and people have generally been very kind and supportive. If I had to choose, I’d say the US, as that’s where we have spent most of our time touring. Hearts was met with critical acclaim. What is next in store? I’m in the middle of writing the next album right now and am hoping to release it at some point next year. Is there anything interesting you can tell us about Sweden? Something we may not know? There is a societal code of conduct in Sweden called “lagom” which means “in moderation”. It means
to blend in appropriately without extreme displays of emotion – typical Swedish behavior! Where did the name “I break horses” come from. Smog had a fantastic song called I Break Horses, which I have always loved, and seeing it written down, within the abstract context of a band’s name, it seemed to be nicely ambiguous. Some names “tell you” what kind of music you’re getting and I liked the fact that ‘I Break Horses’ didn’t seem to do that at all. It also didn’t feel like a pretentious name, so…it was a fairly straight-forward choice!
ICELAND AIRWAVES 2012 Photos: Magnús Andersen
Samaris Stofnar falla EP (Oct 2012)
It is going really well and really fast for Samaris. Samaris consists of three students from Reykjavík, Iceland. Jófríður Ákadóttir (singer), Þórður Kári Steinþórsson (computer musician) and Áslaug Rún Magnúsdóttir (clarinet player). The band started in january 2011 and later the same year they won Músíktilraunir(a serious take on ”battle of the bands” in Iceland), receiving praises from critics and they were one of the hotly tipped bands of this years Icelandic Airwaves. They grabbed my attention and still have it. The youngsters from Samaris play dark electronica with a twist of triphop, blended with untraditional clarinet which works really well. The melodies are full of melancholia and remind me of the old Icelandic folk melodies. Maybe not so strange as their lyrics apparently are old Icelandic poems from the 19th century. On Stofnar Falla, Samaris creates a dark and mysterious atmosphere that is very appealing and hopefully we will se a full-album release in the near future. //Jóhann H. Karlsson
The Raveonettes Observator (Sept 2012) Observator is The Raveonettes’ sixth full-length studio album. Sune Wagner apparently used the last year to recover from an unsuccessful disc by boozing and being depressed, aiming to make an album dedicated to L.A. He recorded it in the Sunset Sound Studios – where the Doors recorded their debut album - and admits to having listened a lot to The Doors lately. You can’t detect that on Observator but still The Ravonettes’, have delivered a solid album, still making perfect harmony with Sharin Foo. As something new and even experimental they’ve introduce piano on the album which plays it’s biggest role in the first single of the album, Observations. They’re in their comfort-zone, still sounding amazingly effortlessly good on their 10 years anniversary. Congratulations. //Jóhann H. Karlsson
Biggi Hilmars All We Can Be (Oct 2012) Biggi Hilmars is known in Iceland as the front man and composer of the band Ampop. An indie, electronic, pop band that has often been compared to bands such as Muse and Queen. With his background from Ampop meshed with his talent for composing music for film and TV, Biggi has urbanized his sound without getting too far from his music manners. All we can be is his debut solo album and it is moving. It is a well-made album with influences from many different styles. The music blended with his unique vocal and the original mix of mainstream and classical texture makes the album interesting and diverse. The way his songs swing different nostalgic styles while still staying true to their originality is humbling to listen to. My biggest critique though is that the sound is almost to clean and therefore loses its charismatic depth, but I am sure that the HiFi club would disagree with me on that one. The album also includes a cover by Leonard Cohen, Famous Blue Raincoat, where Biggi succeeds in designing the song coherently with the rest of the album.
Ocean View No end (Oct 2012) Ocean View is a twisted post-rock band that consists of four Danish youngsters. The band was formed just over a year ago and despite its young existence they are already hitting Copenhagen’s most popular big scenes. The music is experimental, melodic rock-punk style that consists of just the right attitude and a pleasant muddy sound. This is their debut album and the first single is called Sober. The music sounds familiar and the songs remind me of something that I have heard before, but still it didn’t bother me. It’s all about the music not where you find your inspiration. The songs are enjoyable and their formula is somewhat psychedelic with tempo changes that make their songs spot on. Ocean View is a nice input to the Danish music scene and after listening through the album I instantaneously found my favorite song; Bed, check it! // Kristjan Thor
// Kristjan Thor
Secret garden Photographer Camilla Storgaard Make-up and styling Camilla Storgaard
Clothes Rag and Bone Man Model Amou
Words: Kristín Larsdóttir Dahl
icolai N r Bejde Danish designer Nicolai Bejder and his design studio Bemerk have for the last ten years had an impressive list of clients such as TV2, Copenhagen Jazz Festival, Ricco´s Coffee and Roskilde Festival. Nicolai decided to celebrate his 10 year anniversary and passion for graphic design with a project he calls “100 poster in 100 days”. This is a graphic marathon where he actually makes a 100 posters in a 100 days as a countdown for his actual anniversary.
Tell us a little about the last 10 years of your career that you’re celebrating. It all started when I got laid off from my old job as an art director at an ad agency. Luckily, two of my clients stuck with me. I drew my first assignment by hand, making the down payment for a Mac - and then I was off and running. I realized that I needed, not only a change of scenery, but to have some people around me, and so I left Jutland for Copenhagen. Once in Copenhagen I met two guys – Klaus and Kent – with whom I started Bemerk in the Copenhagen Meat Packing District. Back then, we where the first non-butcher inhabitants there. Today, it’s a different story.
Bemerk was a studio rooted in both industrial design and commercials, but we soon shut down the Industrial design part and focused on commercials. Things evolved from there and, long story short, today I am running Bemerk on my own. I am more specialized in my work – graphic design and communication – and I get all the inspiration and energy I need from doing projects with a small group of close, creative friends. Why 100 posters in 100 days? And where did you get the idea from? During a cigarette break at the studio, I was contemplating how to mark my anniversary; I was
counting how many days I had to plan the celebration and ended up with a 100 days left. After the break I continued my work on a movie poster and that’s when the penny dropped – a poster a day till the date of my anniversary. Why did you decide to celebrate your anniversary this way? I felt like pushing my own work into the spotlight for a change. As a craftsman, you are always very sensitive to the client’s needs but this project allowed me to do whatever I wanted, underlining exactly where I am at design-wise and artistically.
Is there any specific theme for the posters? And how much work goes into one poster? Part of the challenge of doing 100 posters, have been to really explore the countless possibilities entailed in poster art and graphic design. I have no dogmas, although I have a grid and a color palette that is reoccurring. When it comes to time, sometimes it’s 10 minutes and sometimes it’s been brewing for days. But I have executed one per day, not prefabricating. It is all about the poster signaling what ever goes through your head on that day.
You said you were fond of the philosophy that ‘good design can be an immediate stream of consciousness, without having to be mulled over endlessly.’ How do you use this philosophy in the 100 posters in 100 days project? Under normal circumstances, I have brought all sorts of considerations into play, in regards to color schemes, fonts, illustrations, etc. For ‘100 in 100’ I am dedicated to the first idea being the best, and subsequently use all my abilities to making it end up as an interesting object.
What happens after the 100 posters in 100 days? The projects will turn into a book – my way of recording the project once all the posters have left me, heading for their new owners.
Photographer – Andrew Akimov Hair and make up – Anastasia Bogomyakova Model – Anastasia Abrosimova at Giraffe Models Agency Designer – Elnura Badalova Assistant – Nikolay Balastrik
Low tide at sunrise
Ida Rislรถw Words: Ida Frantsi 68
With sweetness comparable to young Marianne Faithful accompanied with the kind of understanding for cool that only a young Swede can possess we think Ida Rislöw makes a pretty rad blogger. The 25-year-old DJ/model/ career hybrid reveals her insight to Stockholm street style and how she keeps her style cool and confident yet interesting.
How would you describe your style? My style is a bit casual, Scandinavian and minimalistic. A lot of black (always), mostly leatherjackets and simple clothes with rawer details.
Who is your style icon? I don’t have one particular style icon but f.ex. Taylor Tomasi Hill, Emmanuelle Alt and Alexa Chung all have great style.
What is the most uncomfortable thing about having a blog? It’s not really uncomfortable What has been the most inspiring thing for you recently? but when people come up to you on the street and say that I’ve recently started to work they know who I am and that at a store/agency called JUS they read my blog I always get and also with BLK DNM where surprised. It t feels like you I work with a lot of inspiring have a blog for yourself and people, especially my boss Ulrika Nilsson - such a power-woman! that it’s maybe just friends and family who read it. I think it’s really sweet and I get happy of In Stockholm, what is the course when people say that! most prominent street fashion item right now? You see a lot of the green coats from Acne, Blk Dnm leather jackets and Isabel Marant shoes.
What is the best thing that has come out having a blog? The best thing about having a blog is that I get out of my creativity and to know that people get inspired from my inspirations. It’s also great combined with my job/freelance jobs just because it’s a lifestyle blog, people can follow what I do when Im dj-ing or modeling or at my full time job. And it often leads to me getting request about more gigs and jobs. Visit the blog here: ida.freshnet.se
Sidsel Alling Photo: Petra Kleis Words: Ida Frantsi 70
With a love for casual men’s wear but without a boyfriend to boss around and take outfit shots, we think Sidsel Alling aka Fashionpolish is doing a damn swell job at blogging. For four years the offline stylist has led readers to the secrets of casual, practical and cool Danish style. From Kenzo sweaters, cool cats and occasional indecisiveness regarding her own style she shares her fashion thoughts with refreshing honesty. Do you feel pressure to come up with something new, style-wise, all the time? It’s always a mess to do the outfit post! I don’t have a photographer or a boyfriend I can boss around with a camera so I have to ask friends. I sometimes see that I have been wearing the almost exact same outfits all week and then I try to do something completely different and feel very uncomfortable What has been the most inspiring thing for you recently? and go back to what works. I am pretty excited about the 90’s In Copenhagen what is mix of grunge and minimalism, the most prominent street like Kate Moss and Johnny Depp when they were a couple. I think fashion item right now? The Kenzo sweatshirt with the ss13 season is going to be logo and sneakers, the more crazy nineties style and even though I grew up in those years I rare the better. I really like how practical, but stylish Copenhagen think I’m ready for another spin. My favorite magazine (except boys and girls dress. In quilted work jackets, Barbours and Soundvenue, of course) is i-D lots of knits in the winter. Magazine and their covers and editorials is a huge inspiration Do you read other blogs? for my own work as a stylist. Sure, but I am kind of picky. I must recommend the blog community How would you describe your style? Very simple and pretty Scandinavian. I like to wear the same outfit in different variations. Short skirts, boy-ish t-shirts and lots of knits. I love sneakers and menswear, they’re almost always in better quality than women’s wear – especially when it comes to high street.
Bisou – a whole bunch of cool cats. I really like Elin Kling, Columbine Smille, Jeanne Damas and I love the ironic and humoristic tone from Leandre Medine also known as Manrepeller. Who is your style icon? I have a huge crush on Alison Mosshart from The Kills. What is the most uncomfortable thing about having a blog? A girl asked if I was pregnant. No, I’m not – I think I just looked a little fat that day. What is the best thing that has come out having a blog? Having a blog that people actually reads is of course awesome, and I met some of my very good friends through both work and blogging. I won’t lie; getting nice comments always makes my day! Visit the blog here: fashionpolish.dk 71
Aurora Pรถntinen Photo: Risto Juntunen Words: Ida Frantsi 72
In 2008, Aurora Pöntinen’s bored friends told her to share her fashion thoughts with someone else. The outcome was a blog called Auroran Henkarit, which today has an international following and functions as a forum where Aurora can play dress-up and talk about fashion and style to her heart’s content. Nowadays keeping her blog under the Finnish Costume.fi site, the 26-year-old has a high fashion edge and tendency for experimentation.
How would you describe your style? In the first years of my blogging “career” I tried everything on and wanted to follow every trend possible. Nowadays I feel like I’ve found my own way. I like to describe my own style as minimalistic, androgynous and Scandinavian.
of it, I can feel my fingers itching to post it right away and I get a bit frustrated if I can’t do it in that precise moment, but that’s pretty much it.
In Helsinki, what is the most prominent street fashion item right now? It’s October, it’s leather jackets and winter coats. I’m not sure if anyone agrees with me but What has been the most inspiring thing for you recently? I’ve been seeing a lot of Céline bags lately. Maybe it’s just I get my inspiration from streets, because I’ve been wanting fashion blogs, magazines and one for myself for so long! films and … you name it. Do you feel pressure to come up with something new, style-wise, all the time? I don’t feel it so much anymore. Sometimes when I come up with an outfit and take photos
Do you read other blogs? To name a few, I follow Style by Kling, blogs on Costume.fi site, Columbine Smille, Anywho, 5 inch and up and Stop It Right Now.
Who is your style icon? They vary almost every day. I would say people on the streets are my style icons :) What is the most uncomfortable thing about having a blog? I feel that my blog has only a positive effect on my life. I have learned to draw a line between my personal life and my blog and that’s mostly because of some of the comments I once received. What is the best thing that has come out of having the blog? 3 amazing and very close friends that I have gained indirectly via my blog. Visit the blog here: auroranhenkarit.costume.fi
96.000 lakes in a country By Eugenia Alejos Garrido
STEED LORD 82
Words: Sola Photos: Einar Egilsson
The Icelandic band Steed Lord is a 3 people musical army - and a powerful one at that. Not only do they write, produce and release their own music with their own record label, New Crack City Records; they also direct their own music videos, design their own album covers, clothing line and do photography. As they say themselves: “Steed Lord is a lifestyle and it’s a 24/7 job”. The band consists of brothers Eddie and Einar, and Svala, Einar’s wife. How does a multi-talented family band of crazy kids live & work? Bast investigates.
Steed Lord You do everything yourselves, is there a clear role for each member? We have our specific roles. With music video’s for example, Einar directs, Svala does the styling and art direction and Eddie co-directs. But if someone isn’t happy with a certain thing, we don’t do it. It’s a total democracy. Putting yourself out there in big bright LA must be tough, how do you maintain that positive and driven attitude? Steed Lord was formed from the passion of making music and creating art. We live and breathe Steed Lord everyday, it´s our life basically. We aren´t in Steed Lord to become rich and famous. Personally for us being successful means that we are able to live off of being artists and being in control of our careers. If you love what you do then it´s not that hard to be positive and driven. You have a new album coming out, Prophecy. What inspired it? The name of our new album means “what is ahead” for Steed Lord. It´s an exciting time for the band and many doors are opening. That´s what the Prophecy is all about for us. The Prophecy part 1 is our invitation for people to step into our world and take a look around. We will be releasing The Prophecy part 2 next year and we are very excited to start writing and recording early next year. Any concerts on the horizon? Yes we are doing a show in Iceland on december 1st with the band Legend at Gamli Gaukurinn. It´s gonna be a sweaty party and
we’re expecting people to let loose and go a bit crazy. We’re super excited cause we haven´t performed in Iceland in over 3 years. What’s your favorite part of the production process? The beginning stages when we’re writing the songs, everything is open and we can go in any direction we want - production wise. And then it´s always rewarding when we mix and master our music. Hearing that final sound and putting on those finishing touches. In those last moments of production, magic happens for us. Where does the name Steed Lord come from? From our persian cat Elvis. He used to stand in this regal pose like a royal horse. It was so funny, we started calling him the “royal steed lord”. When we started doing music together and needed a name for the project Svala suggested “Steed Lord” - and it stuck. Steed Lord means gods horse. What artists, alive or dead, inspire you? Prince, Michael Jackson, Giorgio Moroder, Jan Hammer, Vangelis, Quincy Jones, Stevie Wonder, Rene&Angela, Elvis Presley, Fleetwood Mac, Phil Collins and Genesis, Drake, Chris Rea, Tangerine Dream, Timbaland, The Doobie Brothers, Foreigner, Bruce Springsteen, Bryan Ferry, Björk, Dr.Dre, N.W.A., RZA and many more.
T E V L S E E V EY
Photographer Crista Leonard Stylist Klara Privat Realization Anna Ponsa Model Sara Guerrero at Blow Models
Sweater: W.I.A. Ring: The Trent Head piece: Vintage
Sweater: W.I.A. Ring: The Trent Vintage Jeans: Asos Head piece: Vintage
Sweater: Asos Leggins: American Apparel Hat: American Apparel Scarf: W.I.A.
Jacket: W.I.A. Skirt: American Apparel Top: American Apparel Fanny bag: American Apparel Collar & rings: Vintage Boots: H&M Backpack: O’hanlon Mills
Jumpsuit: Asos Leather jacket: Vintage Boots: H&M
Anne Sofie Madsen Words: Alison Withers
Anne Sofie Madsen
The new virtuoso of the Danish fashion scene, Anne Sofie Madsen is widely noted for her daring signature garments that twin together her vivid storytelling imagination and her fine couture techniques in ready-to-wear garments. A graduate of the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts and an apprentice to John Galliano and Alexander McQueen, Madsen launched her own collection shortly after graduation in 2010 to much acclaim. Her previous collections have drawn inspiration from forgotten tales and the SS13 collection is no different.Â
Photo: Polina Vinogradova
Photo: Polina Vinogradova
Anne Sofie Madsen
“Everything in this collection should look like a Malibu Beach Barbie who’s been buried in the playground for about a year and then picked up by a pit bull,”
“Everything in this collection should look like a Malibu Beach Barbie who’s been buried in the playground for about a year and then picked up by a pit bull,” she explains as we sit in Nørrebro studio. Her latest Copenhagen show had Malibu Barbie models gliding down the catwalk, presenting Madsen’s vision of abandoned thrills and discarded pleasures. “We looked at things that are melting, or decaying” she says as she describes the place of inspiration: Miracle Strip in Miami, Florida, a once-popular but now decayed amusement park. “All these memories of joys and pleasures now lie in ruins, they really inspires me,” she explains. One particular silk top in her collection captures
the imagery of Madsen’s world: a woman’s ghostly face, two white pit bulls, mirrored dinosaur heads, the dark forest at the edge of a small town and floating ice cream cones that drip and melt into the folds of the shirt. The nostalgic glimpses that faintly echo a suburban sadness have by no means created a soft collection. The details are tailored onto strong silhouettes - resembling a cast of athletic sci-fi female warriors crawled out of an abandoned house of thrills. “I try to work with different layers, and maybe yes, the result is always a bit melancholic. But there’s always something humorous, even though its a little evil, there’s always a bit of fun.”
Anne Sofie Madsen
“All these memories of joys and pleasures that’s now sort of lying in ruins really inspire me”
Madsen has been lauded by fashion critics and buyers not just for her vivid imagination and storytelling through cloth but her ornately detailed garments. Her intricate dresses of died silk adorned with leather cut-outs, small tassels and highlytextures fringes have put her in a league of her own in the Danish fashion scene. Even though she has trained with Alexander McQueen, Madsen has no interest in being a purist for couture fashion. Her made-to-measure pieces do not stand disparately from her ready-to-wear, as she blends in the techniques. “Everything for me is about craftsmanship,” she explains. “We pay attention to detail and try to involve old or forgotten techniques.” She points
to a RTW dress with digital prints of hand drawn illustrations made from charcoal and watercolors. The delicacy in the clothes is something Madsen is not too fond of either. “It’s very important to me that everything is wearable,” she says. “Maybe you can’t play football or ride your bike in every single piece, but every piece is a garment to be worn. We pay attention to this, how you’ll move in each garment.” The result is perhaps Madsen’s best collection yet. Her beautifully executed creations tinged in this melancholic world are bold in both story and detail. “The clothes tell their own story, its more up to people whether they’re able to bring this story into their own life”
Photo: Polina Vinogradova
Inspired by Edvard Munch’s Madonna
Photographer Rut Sigurðardóttir Styling & Set Design Nadine Engel Hair and make up Timo Blum at Nude Agency Model Anh Phuong at SEEDS Management Styling Assistant Chiara Hoffmann
Dress – Augustin Teboul Hat – Pugnat 101
Dress – Augustin Teboul Head piece – Margot
Overall – Carocora Head piece – Margot 103
Dress – Pugnat Necklace – Margot
Dress – Maniko Head piece – Augustin Teboul
Blouse – Carocora Head piece – stylist’s own Pants – stylist’s own
Top – Pugnat Head piece – Augustin Teboul Pants – stylist’s own 107
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