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Features 14 20 24



Photo Collage: Barcelona 2011 Barça’s grada jove

Regulars 06 07 08 11 13 19 28 58

On our web An inside look The month How to: have an eco-friendly Christmas Fashion: Stylish gift ideas Interview: Hollis Duncan Ideas: Culture, Gastronomy, Escape the city... Back page


Directories 40 44 53

Food & Drink Business Jobs

From the Senior Editor: The end of another year and while we’re in reflective mood here at Metropolitan with our first Photo Collage featuring readers’ photos of the city from throughout the year, we’re also looking onwards and upwards with new sections and a fresh design. While this means some old favourites have come to an end, our aim with these changes is to better help you get the most out of Barcelona. We’ve also moved office for the first time in 12 years: you’ll now find us in Ciutat 7, just round the corner from Plaça Sant Jaume, fittingly, at the very heart of the city. Have a splendid festive season and we’ll see you in 2012. Hannah Pennell

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Esther Jones Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Art Director Aisling Callinan Sales Director Rainer Hobrack Account Executives Richard Cardwell and Montse Prims Financial Manager Andrea Moreno Editorial Assistants Max Bentley and Lauren Reed Design Assistant Isolda Piza Sales Assistants Tashoma Lemard and Chloe Pera Contributors Jonathan Bennett, Lucy Brzoska, Vera Ciria, Roger de Flower, Amelie Malmgren, Tara Stevens, Nicola Thornton and Andreas Vou Photographers Tashoma Lemard, Richard Owens and Lee Woolcock Cover illustration Fernando Figowy Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial Office: Ciutat 7 2º 4ª, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; Advertising: General enquiries: Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Find your nearest distribution point on

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110m2 upper floor apartment - Passeig Sant Joan

Fantastic 320m2 apartment - Turó Park

Improvements made by an interior designer. Open-plan kitchen, three bedrooms and two bathrooms and study area with gallery. Parking. Price: €1.350 Ref. L0211ba

Beautiful 200m2 apartment with character Plaça Urquinaona

In Modernista building. Mosaic tiled floors, cornice ceilings. Four bedrooms and three bathrooms. Unfurnished. Price: €2.300 Ref. L0208BA

Large living room, terrace, eat-in kitchen, four bedrooms, three bathrooms. Great finishings. Parking space. Unfurnished. Price: €5.000 Ref. L0203ba

Stylish 100m2 designer apartment - Gothic Quarter

130m2 apartment - Eixample

Bright 160m2 family apartment - Pedralbes

In perfect condition, living/dining room, open-plan kitchen, two bedrooms, two bathrooms and study. Furnished. Price: €1.700 Ref. L0213ba

In a beautiful Modernista building, living/dining room, kitchen, two bedrooms, one bathroom and high ceilings. Unfurnished. Price: €1.300 Ref. 1157

Living/dining room, eat-in kitchen, three double bedrooms, two bathrooms, terrace. Communal pool. Unfurnished. Parking. Price: €3.000 Ref. L0205ba


Brand new flats in Sarrià Brand new flats located in the heart of Sarrià. From 1 to 3 bedrooms. Open kitchen. Community roof-top sun deck. From €380.000 Ref. V1105ba

Nice 180m2 flat located in listed building Eixample

Recently renovated. One block from Passeig de Gràcia. High-level floor with lots of light. Two ensuite bedrooms. Price: €1.190.000 Ref. 1198ba

Brand new flats in classical building Passeig de Gràcia

Exclusive, newly-renovated flats located right on Passeig de Gràcia. 19th-century building fully refurbished. 2 and 3 bedrooms. From €728.000 Ref. V1120ba

Please call for further properties 93 241 30 82

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on our web

*READER DISCOUNT From this month, we’re starting a new series of special offers from our advertisers that are exclusively aimed at you, the Metropolitan reader. There will be regular discounts on services and products, which you can find by looking for the above symbol on the relevant ads in the magazine. In addition, each week there will be a one-off extra special offer, that we’ll feature on our website and on Twitter and Facebook. Get more info at: readerdiscounts

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NEW: Monthly guest blogger Although we’re sad to see the end of the Columns page in the magazine*, we’re happy to welcome a brand-new feature on our website, with guest bloggers joining us for a month at a time to share their thoughts and experiences with us. First up is the hyper-busy magazine publisher and writer Tim Parfitt, who is blogging now and up to Christmas. Do you want to be one of our next guest bloggers? Send an email explaining, in no more than 50 words, why we should choose you to share your musings on our web: *Catch the last Wild in Barcelona entry online: wildbarcelona

Interview: Rory Ryder Read Max Bentley’s interview with British resident Rory Ryder about the inspiration behind his series of photos featuring female Barcelona street cleaners, on show this month at Corretger 5. roryryder

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An inside look Illustrator Fernando Figowy

I was born in Buenos Aires in 1969. I’ve lived in Barcelona for 10 years; I came just to discover a place that had always appealed to me, and I’ve lived here ever since. I graduated in Visual Communication 20 years ago and since then I’ve worked as a freelance illustrator and had my work published in various countries, including Argentina, Brazil, Spain, France, Portugal and Germany. I’ve also written children’s books and I teach art to children. My work features people and their relationships, and they are my take on the images, photos, music and comics that have influenced me from my childhood to now. Barcelona is the city I chose to live in. I never miss the chance to visit the Boqueria market on a Saturday. I always avoid La Rambla.

A view: Parc Güell A building: Palau de la Música An inspiration: Streets of the Born A place to go with friends: Bar Mudanzas (Vidrieria 15, Born) On my to-do list: Restaurant El Mirador de la Venta (Plaça Doctor Andreu, Tibidabo). About the cover: My approach to each illustration I do is to transform it into something personal. The idea for the cover was a modern nativity scene, how would it be in modern times? I hope that the image leaves space for interpretation and imagination on the part of the observers regarding a religious theme. A sacred moment for me? An evening at home with my partner, son and friends.

Interested in featuring your photographs or illustrations in our magazine? Email us at

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NEW PARTNERSHIP John Lewis, the popular UK department store, has just started an international delivery service for its online store, which is available to Spanish residents. For a £7.50 (about €8.75) delivery charge, you now have access to a selection of the retailer’s stock, although the range is unfortunately limited by logistics, customs regulations and other such nuisances at the moment. So, while you can get John Lewis’s own products and exclusive fashion brands not easily accessible here (such as Ghost, Terry de Havilland shoes and bags by Aspinal), furniture, electrical goods and perishables are amongst the items not currently available to shoppers here. However, a special export service is operated out of the John Lewis Oxford Street branch and they can be contacted with special delivery requests, in case you spot something on the web you simply can’t live without. And remember, John Lewis is never knowingly undersold, so even with the delivery charge, your shopping options just increased.

mix it up If you think the idea of a gourmet burger joint sounds like a bit of an oxymoron, you might want to try La Royale, inaugurated a few months ago in uptown Barcelona. Chef Paco Pérez and a team of “burger experts” have created a menu of 11 different gourmet burgers made from organic meats (that are minced on the premises) sourced from all over the world. So you’ll find meat and recipes brought from America, Asia, Oceania, Africa and Europe as well as a vegetarian option made from tofu, soy, and vegetables. La Royale has also introduced the concept, already popular in London and New York, of accompanying gourmet burgers with gin and tonic. And if you don’t want to restrict this unusual mix to just your main course, La Royale offers a range of both gins and tonics to match each of their desserts. The man behind this concept is Rafael Barrera, a G-and-T guru, who is frequently seen behind the bar concocting new creations. Plaça del Camp 5.

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EATING OUT New publication Foreign Flavours is a collection of short stories, non-fiction articles and recipes published by the Writers Abroad group, an online writing community. The common thread running through the book is food as experienced by people living abroad. We often simultaneously fear and are fascinated by the unknown, making foreign cuisine a perfect metaphor for taking on a new city. All proceeds from sales of the book go to The Book Bus, a charity dedicated to improving child literacy rates in developing countries. You can buy Foreign Flavours, priced €10.99, from the website Lulu.; www.; www.



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MEET BCN - C/Balmes 167, 3º 2ª 08008, Barcelona / Tel: 93 176 30 76 - Fax: 93 217 31 28

a shoe in Combine the latest technology with a passion for men’s shoes and you get...Botisto. The upscale shop, which opened last month on Consell de Cent, measures customers’ feet with an optical scanner that produces a 3D image. Next, they have you try on different types of shoes to get a sense of width and fit. All this is then taken into account, along with your preferences, and sent to the manufacturer in Italy to create your own perfectly-designed shoes. They’re not cheap—they start at €279 a pair—but can you really put a price on that kind of service? Consell de Cent 278.

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GO GREEN Max Bentley looks at how you can enjoy an eco-friendly Christmas in Barcelona.

1. Organic Christmas Dinner


Every year, supermarkets are filled with eager customers trying to buy all the ingredients for their family Christmas dinner—if you’re cooking up lunch here this year, why not try something new? Biospace (Valencia 186) is an organic foodstore that specialises in environmentally-friendly foods at an affordable price. With a wide selection of organic vegetables and meats (including your traditional turkey, of course), why not opt for a healthier and chemical-free Christmas meal this year?

2. Eco-friendly Christmas markets Barcelona prides itself on its sustainable development projects and has a range of Christmas markets that adhere to this ‘green’ philosophy. The traditional Fira de Santa Llucia is on now until December 22nd in front of Barcelona Cathedral in the Gothic Quarter and has a good selection of sustainable Christmas trees, handmade nativity figurines and greenery such as holly and mistletoe to decorate your house, plus much more. DrapArt ‘11, the International Recycling Art Festival of Catalunya, is being held at the CCCB between December 16th and 30th and is dedicated to showing us how we can recover, reuse and recycle domestic materials for an enjoyable and useful purpose this festive season, while its market features a funky range of cool Christmas gifts!


3. Feeling charitable? Intermon Oxfam has branches across the city that sell fair trade Christmas decorations and gifts such as a nativity set made of wood from Indonesia (€29.90, pictured), jewellery from Peru (from €8.90) and silk and cotton scarves from Vietnam (€14.90, pictured). Through the charity, you can also send donations or gifts to unprivileged communities abroad to improve their living standards via an array of sustainable, environmental schemes such as irrigation systems. Alternatively, head to charity clothes shop, Humana. You may have grown out of some of your clothing or just want to renew your wardrobe, so why not donate any unwanted clothing to them and do a different kind of giving this festive season? It’s also an ideal place to find original gifts for friends and families, or pick up items whose material can be reworked into home-made decorations or presents. Got more suggestions for celebrating Christmas while staying eco-friendly? Leave a comment with the details at

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Images-clockwise, l-r: Hiske Ter Veld dress; outfit by Nerea Lurgain, also showing at Dress Up; shoes by OTO, available at Festivalet

Vera Ciria talks us through what’s on her Barcelona style radar. This month, she gives us some suggestions about where to find special Christmas gifts.

With the Christmas season fast approaching, many of you will be turning your thoughts to holidays in warmer or colder climes, festive food, survival tactics and, above all, panicking about gifts. Love it or hate it, Christmas is going to eat up your time, cash and energy over the coming weeks. As the stores careen into a frenzy to grab our attention, maybe it’s time to slow down and think about where you will be putting your hard-earned money. Considering it is the season of goodwill, why not help out others while acquiring truly original presents that won’t be stuffed in the bin by the 26th? The month of December is awash with festive, artisan and independent designer markets where you can pick up lovely items that don’t break the bank and will help struggling, talented artists who need YOU more than the high-street stores do. I’ve sorted through the lot to bring you the two best options. FESTIVALET This fair is one-of-a-kind in Barcelona. Only designers that can fully certify that their creations are entirely handmade are allowed to participate. This is the stylish side of crafting. From quirky men’s t-shirts created by Antonio Ladrillo to beautiful jewellery by Après Ski, delicious jams and honeys whipped up by La Ballena Elena to the most luscious soaps in the world by Olivia, Festivalet is a fabulous blend of fashion, cute decorative items and food. Keep an eye out for Bylina’s stall: Katerina sources and saves bits of embroidered cloth, sheets, pillowcases and tablecloths, converting these pieces

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into wall-hangings and cushions that are absolutely gorgeous. This edition will be held on December 3rd and 4th at the FAD venue in Plaça des Àngels, right in front of the MACBA building. DRESS UP SHOWROOM Feeling that the city was lacking initiatives for emerging talents, this collective of independent fashion designers banded together in 2009 to showcase the best of their creations. This is the place to go if you’re fed up with appearing at parties and finding at least three other people dressed exactly the same. The Dress Up designers often produce only one or two versions of each garment so rest assured that your purchase will be exclusive. Hiske Ter Veld is the star designer of this event, with beautiful dresses and separates that you won’t want to miss. The event has been held in different beautiful venues and settings around the city, and this edition will be held on December 10th and 11th at the new Caleidoscopio Space in the Gòtic neighbourhood (Passatge Escudellers 5). The important thing to keep in mind is to try and not lose your head at Christmas. Remember, less is more and don’t forget taste and elegance. After a very difficult 2011 for everyone, I wish you all your most fashionable best for 2012.

Read more of Vera’s fashion news at:

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Riddle me this

The past, present and future of Catalunya’s favourite bubbly. By Tara Stevens. Photos by Tashoma Lemard.


othing captures the spirit of Christmas in Catalunya like cava. It’s like good cheer in a glass; sparkling and bubbling and oozing festiveness, very often for under €10, and an essential purchase if you’re planning to spend the festive season here. It was invented in the 1860s by Josep Raventós, who was touring France promoting the still wines he was making at the time when he stumbled across the small, shaly Champagne region in the north-east of the country. He was impressed by the sparkling wines he found there and set about learning the méthode champenoise, which had been invented by the monk Dom Perignon, to try out back in Catalunya. Raventós released his first bottle in 1872 and it was an instant success, fast becaming a favourite of the Spanish aristocracy and royal family; today, his winery—now part of Codorníu—is still going strong in Sant Sadurní d’Anoia in the Penedès region. Unable since the Eighties to officially call the sparkling wine ‘champagne’ due to European Unions laws on protected geographical status, the Catalan version takes its name from the cellars (literally caves in Catalan) that Raventós dug in order to preserve his wines. Indeed, the Modernista cellars at Codorníu are some of the

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most impressive in the world. Designed and built by the great Josep Puig i Cadafalch, they were officially recognised as a Monument of Historic and Artistic Interest in 1976. Unlike champagne, which is attached to a region, cava refers to any sparkling wine made using the ‘traditional method’ in Spain. Contrary to popular belief, this production isn’t limited to the Penedès though that is certainly the area that makes the majority of it. Traditionally the grapes used were endemic to Spain—Macabeo, Paralleda and Xarel·lo—which resulted in a fairly light wine. There’s still plenty of traditional cava-making about, but more recently the taste for champagne worldwide has caused producers to inject a little Chardonnay and Pinot Noir into the mix, often with excellent results. Think of it as the new wave if you like, and often they are the bottles that are putting cava on the map. In terms of production, the method is exactly like that of champagne. The wine is made, bottled and stopped with a metal cap. Just before the bottle is corked, a mixture of yeast and sugar is added to kick-start a secondary fermentation, which creates the bubbles. The wine is then left to rest, basically soaking up lots of flavour and character from the lees—the icky stuff left at the bottom of the bottle after the fermentation—and the maker ‘riddles’ it

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CAvA 15

Josep Raventós is the man credited with creating cava in the 19th century; his brand continues today.

from time to time (that’s turning upside down to you and me) until the lees move up into the neck. At this point the cava is frozen, then the cap whipped off. The frozen lees pop out and a cork is slotted into their place, leaving a clean, frothy, celebratory wine that is often much more easy-going than champagne. It is light on the head, keeps you upbeat rather than groggy and best of all you can pair it with anything (or nothing, if you prefer). Ask any of the great Catalan chefs, such as Ferran Adrià or Joan Roca, what’s the best wine to serve with their lengthy tasting menus and they’ll all tell you to go for a bottle of cava. And yet despite all these obvious qualities, there remains an extraordinary amount of snobbery around cava in wine-drinking

circles. True there’s plenty of rubbish out there, but it’s come a long way in the last few years and there is lots of very good drinking to be had, especially if you start looking in the €10-plus mark and at the new wave of production. This year, for example, Bodegas Naveran in the Penedès have launched a Magnum of their premium cava Perles Blanques, made of Pinot Blanc de Noir and Chardonnay. It’s the classic champagne combo, but priced just €36 (remember you’re getting two bottles in a magnum, and magnums by their nature generally pour better wines). What makes it a bit different from the rest of the crop is that the grapes are cooled at a very low temperature before the maceration and pressing process begins. The fermentation is also done at a very low temperature, which

When it comes to light and crisp, go for the classic grape mix every time.

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keeps the sugars in the fruit concentrated, the aromas bright and the structure tight in the finished wine, which develops over the next 24 months. The result is a quite beautiful cava with streaks of greenish gold, and a fine, elegant bubble. US wine critic Robert Parker gave it 91 points out of 100 last year. Bottles of fizz that come from outside of the best-known cavamaking region are also on the rise and they’re gaining an audience. They also tend to be cheaper. Torre Oria Brut—www.torreoria. com—from Valencia has wine writers and critics salivating all over it. Described as an “insane deal” by Richard Goldsmith on Fox News, I have to agree. It’s honeyed and crisp with fine, soft bubbles, is always picking up awards and costs less than €10. Perhaps even more surprising is the reaction to González Byass Vilarnau Brut NV, from the sherry-makers in Jerez, which is also making strides for its fresh, frothy and “happy”—according to Eric Asimov in the New York Times—fizz. This is not to denigrate traditional cavas. Indeed, when it comes to light and crisp, go for the classic grape mix every time. But when you’re shopping for this season’s festive cheer, scan the aisles of your local bodega closely: these days your choices are bigger and brighter than ever.

There remains an extraordinary amount of snobbery around cava in winedrinking circles.

THREE OF THE BEST CROWD-PLEASING CLASSICS Albet i Noya Cava Brut 21 This cava was originally made as a commemorative fizz for the new millennium, but it proved so popular they kept making it. The combination of Chardonnay with Paralleda gives it a fresher, silkier finish than other cavas and it’s a classy choice for the price of around €11 a bottle. It’s also 100 percent organic.

Llopart Brut Nature Integral This is an elegant cava that packs enough muscle to pair with food. The combination of Chardonnay, Paralleda and Xarel·lo, however, does give it a floral freshness that lends itself particularly well to brunch or an aperitif before lunch or dinner. It is priced around €10.

Codorníu Pinot Noir A sturdy, salmon-pink cava from one of the biggest cava bodegas in the land, but it’s nicely made and has a satisfying air of history about it given its connection with the invention of cava in the first place. Crisp and refreshing in the mouth, with a creamy mouth-feel and a fine bubble, it’s pretty, festive and versatile, seeing you right through to dessert. It retails at around €12.

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One of the ‘new wave’ family of cavas—Perles Roses by Bodegas Naveran.

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Yoga Claudia Faimberg Mon-wed 14.15h Wed 19.30h Mon-thurs 20.30h Tues & Thurs 09.30h

Physiotherapy Family Constellations: 2nd Friday every month Gestaltic training: 3rd Friday of every month Meditation concerts DFA, Somatic Pattern

Mother and baby yoga Mon 16h Trini Carrillan

Family yoga Trini Carrillan Mon 17.45h every two weeks Fri 17h monthly

Yoga for children

Sala Aditi

Thurs 17.30h Nini del Carril

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Chi kung Adalia Iglesias

Somatic Pattern Recognition DUGGAN / FRENCH APPROACH

Re-education of emotional posture

The DFA is an advanced process of connection between body and mind. It gives the opportunity to transform yourself into a process of: • Freeing your personal history from negative moments of the past and of restricting belief systems.

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Healing sound

• Reducing emotional and physical stress.

Thurs 19h Fernando Dans

Music therapy for pregnant women Mon 19h Fernando Dans

Feldenkrais Mon 10.30h Natalia Vergara

Authentic movement Wed 11.30h Paula Mariani

• Learning how to fully express yourself, becoming a more complete person and experience a greater personal and physical mobility.


C/Avinyó 31 - 3er2ª Tel. 93 310 16 76 - Mob. 627 330 491

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HOLLIS DUNCAN Grassroots bike racer, US, 36

On Sunday December 4th, the world’s best cyclocross riders will meet in the Basque Country for the 35th edition of Ziklokross Igorre, part of the UCI (Union Cycliste Internationale) World Cup calendar. Metropolitan catches up with an American cyclocross enthusiast and grassroots racer who is hoping to raise the profile of the sport here.

“I’m definitely happiest on my bike. I love the city but it’s not my natural environment.”

Cyclocross is like cross-country running with a bike. It’s a winter sport that came about as a way for ‘roadies’ to stay fit through the winter when the roads are often dicey. The bikes we use are essentially road bikes with skinny, knobby tyres. Races take place on a 2.5 to 3.5 kilometre circuit featuring pavement, wooded trails, grass, mud, steep run-ups, sand and barriers, forcing riders to dismount their bikes and run. I ran cross-country in college, and was always passionate about trail running, so the bug for cyclocross just grew from there. I still run as part of my cross training. Atlanta, Georgia, where I’m from, is as flat as a pancake. We count bridges and overpasses as hills there so I love doing climbs like Montserrat and Montseny. I did two road races this summer, in the Pyrenees and French Alps: Quebrantahuesos (205km, 3,500m) was a true celebration of Spanish cycling; La Marmotte (174km, 5,000m) was epic, finishing up Alpe d’Huez. I got gold in my age group, not bad for a Georgia boy. This fall, I started competing in Ciclocross Català (CC). This is a series of races around Catalunya that culminates with one champion. The races attract about 100 riders each time. Last year, there were

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nine races around the region but there will be fewer this year because of the crisis. My first CC race was in Les Franqueses del Vallés in November. There were 104 cyclists and I finished third-from-last out of 29 in the Masters 30 field. To the average spectator I lost, but to a niche group of cyclists who get their kicks from 45 to 60 minutes of pure pain, this is motivation and inspiration to pedal harder; victory is crossing the finish line. I’m pretty sure I was the only foreigner—definitely the only American. The course layout was aggressive. The circuit was in a modest, unassuming park and we had to literally cycle into a stream and run out carrying our bikes three times per lap. It was raining, so we mashed our pedals through shin-deep mud, up steep and slippery run-ups, over barriers, through puddles of water, and the course zigzags everywhere. My shoes took three days to dry, but I can’t wait to do it again. I race steel bikes: very few people do these days, especially in Spain. The industry has moved almost completely to carbon nowadays. Steel is a throwback material but its ride quality still rivals that of more expensive materials like carbon and titanium. Cyclocross fits in well with my life. I’m a

stay-at-home dad juggling a graphic design career, so I can’t dedicate too much time to a sport. Road racing requires many hours of training; this way I get to spend time at home. I’m definitely happiest on my bike. I love the city but it’s not my natural environment. I prefer riding uphill to down; I love suffering on climbs. I had an English buddy here and we did a lot of eight-hour rides together: it’s a long time to be in the saddle but the exhaustion you feel is part of the glory. I ride for Independent Fabrication’s (IF) Grassroots team. IF is a custom frame builder based in New Hampshire. My road bike is an IF so I wrote them and expressed interest about racing for their team. They enthusiastically welcomed me and I am now living the dream. My big idea is to generate a buzz locally and create a criterium road race on closed streets in Gràcia, where I live. I can really see this turning into a popular annual cycling event if it gets off the ground. Twitter: @holliscx Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.

11/23/11 1:09:43 PM


Barcelona 2011

Plaça Catalunya, January. By Bryan Bailey

Welcome to the world—sister meets newborn brother, August. By Steve Tallantyre

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Onlookers at La Monumental watch as bull waits to enter slaughterhouse, July. By Lisa Hatle

Carrer Mercè, March. By Emilie Rabareau

In front of the MACBA, September. By Roberto Saraceno

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Taking part in 15-O protest, October. By Jasna Boudard

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Waiting at the traffic lights at Mallorca with Casanova, August. By Julian Deleo

WE WANT MORE PHOTOS! Many thanks to all of you who sent in photos for these pages—we’re sorry we couldn’t use them all here, but we have put a longer version of this spread online: And following the great response we got, we’ve decided to keep going with the idea. Each month, we’ll publish two pages of reader images related to a different city theme. In January, the subject will be FOOD—its display, preparation and consumption. Send your photos to by December 14th. Details about formats, captions, etc. are at:

Swimmers in the Barcelona triathlon head out to sea, October. By Tahnee Nicholson

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Hot summer day in a Raval flat with n

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15-M protesters in Via Laietana, May. By Cèsar Pasadas

Friends in Ciutadella Park, September. By Andrzej Witek

View of Tibidabo horizon, August. By Robin Munt

Raval flat with no air-con, August. By Angela Tippmann

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Sunday morning sardanes in front of the cathedral, June. By Dorothea Biehler

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C Barcelona are currently enjoying the most successful era in their 112-year history, yet while captain Carles Puyol has been lifting trophy after trophy there is still one matter that the club’s board members are not quite satisfied with. Barça have won a staggering 12 titles in the last three years, they are current European and Spanish champions and widely regarded as the best club side of all time. The average attendance at the Camp Nou continues to rise this season, following the trend set in the four previous ones; in 2010-11, it stood at 79,390, the highest in Europe. So what could possibly be the problem? It is something noticed by the thousands of tourists and foreign residents who visit the Camp Nou each week: they are blown away by the scintillating football and the imposing stadium but are left disappointed by the unexpectedly dull atmosphere. Indeed, the Camp Nou is often likened to a theatre, with spectators who expect to be entertained before they will show any enthusiasm about what they are watching. This feature has not gone unnoticed by Barça’s board either, and the club, under president Sandro Rosell, has been considering ways to raise the decibels in the 98,000-seater stadium. After months of

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Visitors are blown away by the scintillating football but disappointed by the unexpectedly dull atmosphere. 11/23/11 11:19:33 AM


A single voice

Photo courtesy FC Barcelona

Can FC Barcelona introduce more atmosphere to the Camp Nou with the creation of a controversial ‘youth stand’? By Andreas Vou.

planning, a solution may have been found. The plan is to create a ‘Grada Jove’ or ‘Youth Stand’, that would accommodate 1,400 vocal supporters who would belong to a special group (yet to be formed) of 4,000 club members with access to half-price match tickets. The aim of the initiative is that these youngsters, in their enthusiasm, would influence the rest of the stadium to create an atmosphere similar to that already seen in many British grounds. In late September this year, a General Assembly of FC Barcelona members voted in favour of creating a closed section for this group behind the goal of the north stand with 295 votes in favour, 198 against and 33 undecided. Despite this support, the plans have caused a debate among some of the club’s most prominent figures; while Rosell and the majority of his directors support the idea, a section for youths to make more noise is not as innocent as it sounds. And someone who strongly opposes the idea is previous FC Barcelona president Joan Laporta, and with good reason. From the early Eighties until not too long ago, in the same stand where the Grada Jove will be, a supporters’ group called ‘Boixos Nois’ (meaning ‘Mad Boys’) took up residence. While they were more vocal than the rest of the Camp Nou crowd put together,

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their noisy support came at a heavy price. Many of its members accumulated a long line of criminal offences for causing trouble in and around football stadiums, especially away from home. In 2003, Laporta was elected president of Barça and became the first one to take stern action against the group, banning them from the stadium and away trips. It was quite a paradox watching the magic of Ronaldinho with a backdrop of anti-Laporta chants—who was then presiding over the most successful era in Barça’s history— coming from the small group of Boixos Nois that evaded the ban (at the time, there was no systematic way to recognise members of the group. Many were angry at Laporta’s attitude towards them and stopped going to matches, but a few did carry on). After an unsavoury saga consisting of death threats and personal harassment, Laporta eventually succeeded in reducing their existence to a bare minimum. But with these new plans in place, Laporta has warned Rosell that he could be inviting trouble to the ground after a first draft of members for the new group included over 100 previous ‘Mad Boys’ and others with criminal records. The plans for the stand are currently at a deadlock as the Grada Jove’s lead campaigner and spokesman, Carles Vidal, is blacklisted by the Catalan police, the Mossos d’Esquadra. Although he was


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not apparently a registered member of the Boixos Nois, Vidal is thought by police to have a criminal past. While the club agreed to strike from the list of potential members the rest of the people that the police objected to, Vidal remained. Last month, El Periódico reported that talks between Barça and the Mossos regarding the project were being held up over the issue of allowing him to be a member of the Grada Jove. “If the problem is me, I’ll go,” Vidal said at the time. “I’ve told the club that I don’t want to be an obstacle to this project.” In the El Periódico story, police sources said that they had proof that Vidal was involved in a fight at Real Madrid’s Santiago Bernabeu stadium during a Champions League match last season; however, Vidal denies being violent and expressed surprise at the “obstinancy” of the Catalan police towards him. Despite this disagreement, in an attempt to ensure the security of the initiative from the outset, assuming it goes ahead, the Mossos have laid down seven key rules that the club must abide by in order for the youth stand to be implemented (see below). While they may not be able to completely guarantee safety, putting them in place is a positive sign and will go a long way towards calming the fears of those who believe the Grada Jove is a smokescreen behind which a more suspicious set of fans will hide. The issues of the Boixos Nois and security aside, the question is, is it really possible to get all the fans inside Europe’s largest stadium chanting in unison? The Camp Nou has so many different types of fans that it will be difficult to make them all act as one, except when Lionel Messi produces a moment of magic, of course. Yet why should that be perceived as negative? In fact, it gives the stadium a unique character that makes it appealing to many fans. The Camp Nou has become an attraction with a magnetism equal to that of the Sagrada Família or Parc Güell. The FC Barcelona museum and tour attracts over 1.3 million visitors each year, making it the most popular tour in the city. To put that figure into perspective, ‘only’ 200,000 people go annually to the stadium tour and museum of Manchester United, the team that FC Barcelona defeated in last season’s Champions League final. What has been noticeable in recent years is a more positive collective crowd attitude, which is mainly down to the overwhelming success of a team that includes numerous homegrown players and technical staff including manager Josep Guardiola and his deputy Tito Vilanova. Together, they have managed to create a more understanding crowd that fully supports the team even if certain results do not go their way. It was incredible to witness in October’s match against Sevilla when, with the score locked at 0-0, Barça were awarded a penalty in the last minute of the game. Messi stepped up but his shot was saved. The response was remarkable: nearly everyone inside the stadium stood up and chanted the Argentine’s name and gave the team a standing ovation at the final whistle. This wouldn’t have happened in previous years; the attitude was different then and Barça fans were considerably more critical when the team failed to perform at its best. Now, the majority of spectators are in tune with the team’s patient approach. Clubs around the world have tried to emulate Barcelona’s

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Photo by Tashoma Lemard

renowned football philosophy of intricate short passing and moving but their fans’ impatience has restricted them from fully reaping the potential rewards. So, while the Camp Nou does lack consistent, collective chanting, it is a vital advantage that the fans understand the team’s style of play. Memories of the past have understandably made a large portion of Barça fans apprehensive about a youth stand, but they have seen their club overcome greater challenges over the years, minimising rivals who long ago were considered insuperable. Yes, it is a risk but if the right balance can be found between old and young who support the team in full voice, without sacrificing safety, that would surely discourage some unwelcome fans from attending games, meaning the Grada Jove could turn out to be yet another great victory for FC Barcelona. THE SEVEN RULES SET OUT BY THE MOSSOS - The Mossos will communicate directly with the FC Barcelona board, not the spokesman of the supporters’ group. - The Mossos have the right to prohibit any individual based on their prior history, either having been a member of the Boixos Nois or having a criminal record; the Mossos will have unlimited access to the club’s facilities. - Photograph and fingerprint verification will be required to enter the youth stand. - The stand will not be controlled by private security guards but by the Mossos. - The club has to commit to punishing any members who don’t meet the security rules. - The areas surrounding the stadium will be deemed ‘areas of risk’; this means that any disturbances in or around the Camp Nou will be treated more seriously and the club will hand out heavy sanctions to anyone involved in them. - Banned members will not be allowed to travel to away matches.

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Live action

WALA, CaixaForum and La Porta_casa

Increasing the knowledge of Barcelona residents about the work of the London Live Art Development Agency is the aim of ‘WALA! What About Live Art?’. Produced by independent dance association La Porta, the event includes presentations and performances by some of the key members of the British organisation. Highlights include, on December 9th, director Lois Keidan explaining the group’s strategies and objectives, followed by a performance of Semitic Score by Oreet Ashery. December 7th to 11th. Free entry to all activities, although seating is limited.

winter sports

You could just go skiing of course, but there’s other seasonal activities that are worth a try:

1. Tubbing (sic.)—like a water slide but with snow and a big rubber ring—and sledges for hire mean fun for all the family at La Molina; 2. Ice skating at FC Barcelona’s rink; 3. Snowshoeing through the Aigüestortes National Park. For details, see our website

Doesn’t cost a thing

Two years down the line and, Barcelona’s online guide to free activities, is still going strong. With details (in English, Castilian and Catalan) each week of around 120 things to do without spending a cent (or almost), the site has earned itself thousands of loyal followers. Sign up and discover the city on the cheap.

SEW IT YOURSELF Costura, Dr Dou 4

Philip Glass, photo by Raymond Meier

In a month in which spending money is pretty much the name of the game (despite the fact that we’ve all got less to fritter these days), the idea of a sewing shop that lets you rent out machines to make your own gear is strangely appealing. Costura also offers workshops, fabric and stacks of gorgeous little sewing accoutrements. (Thanks to our fashion writer Vera Ciria for letting us know about this place through her blog, see p. 13.)

Four-month festival Festival Mil-lenni, Various locations

Can you imagine if Sónar were to last 16 weeks? There’d be a lot of suffering souls out there. Luckily, some festivals can run and run without taking too heavy a toll, and such is the case of the Festival Mil·lenni, now in its 13th edition. Jane Birkin (January 10th) is our pick of the long line-up, which also includes Anoushka Shankar (December 14th) and composer Philip Glass finishing things up way over there in April 2012.

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Semitic Score, photo by Karoliina Hujanen

Mercat de les Flors

‘Sección Irregular’ is a new initiative from Barcelona’s main dance venue, exploring the relationship between choreography and experimental art. It starts this month with Ivo Dimchev (pictured), whose work will be presented in English. December 14th to May 16th, 2012.

Up on stage

Some of the concerts happening this month in Barcelona

The Horrors—Thursday 1st at Razzmatazz The Dø (pictured)­—Sunday 4th at Music Hall Danko Jones—Wednesday 14th at Apolo Rihanna—Wednesday 14th at Palau Sant Jordi

Alternative film Girona Film Festival, Various locations

bon any nou!

Amistad by Alejandro Marzoa

We all know that Barcelona has become a hot spot for film festivals of all kinds, but there’s a lot of other places doing them, too. So this month, why not head north to see Girona’s 23rd Film Festival, which features all manner of short movies, including a smattering of English-language ones, and has Chile and French Catalunya as the featured ‘guests’ this year. While you’re there, check out the town’s Museu de Cine, for a true cinephile experience. December 2nd to 5th.;

Three different ways to welcome 2012

- For the glam clubbing kids: Matinée Winter Festival at Palau Sant Jordi. - For lovers of tradition and style: Gran Gala de Flamenco at Palau de la Música Catalana. - For sea dogs: a weekend ferry round-trip to Rome with Grimaldi Lines. For more information, check our website

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‘Barcelona Gitana’ and ‘Pèlerinage Gitan’ Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona and Institut Français. Until January 14th, 2012

‘Pèlerinage Gitan’. Institut Français

Boda d’El Chele i La Lorenza. Montjuïc, 1960. AFB

La Chito, 1968. AFB

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“1953. I often see Rosario in the street with her mother. I love her figure. She doesn’t even look at me. Today I found her alone so I approached her and asked if she wanted to go for a stroll. We ended up in restaurant ‘Los Caracoles’. Rosario wore a simple dress and no makeup. I felt like a schoolboy on his first date. This month we have seen each other every day at the same restaurant. Her presence has become necessary in my life.’” French photographer Jacques Léonard (Paris, 1909—L’Escala, 1995) made Barcelona his home in the early Fifties when he fell in love with Rosario Amaya, a striking gypsy woman from the slum in the foothills of Montjuïc. In contravention of Romani tradition, they managed to get married and afterwards they settled in Amaya’s neighbourhood, from where Léonard began a lifelong photographic study of the close-knit gypsy community. Léonard, or ‘Payo Chac’ as he became known to his new family, suddenly gained what no other professional photographer had had before—unique access to all the dwellings in the slum and its residents’ full consent to take pictures from within. Unlike his contemporary colleagues who, when venturing into such environs, commonly approached the curious Romani with a paternalistic sentiment that reaffirmed their role as outsiders, Léonard simply reached for his camera and took pictures of the people around him, whom he both respected and adored. For more than two decades, he lived and photographed in the shanty towns that were on the fringe of what was then considered to be the accepted perception of Barcelona, both geographically and sociologically. The outcome is an intimate black-and-white testimony peppered with dotted dresses, guitars, dirt roads and bare feet, and that is completely free from criticism. Perhaps this special relationship between Léonard and his subjects also explains the sad fact that his unparalleled collection remained in shoeboxes during his life and it wasn’t until last year, 15 years after his death, that two of his children found his legacy and understood its historical value. Together with the Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona, they succeeded in bringing thousands of negatives back from oblivion and have put together two exhibitions (and a documentary) to tell the story of a lifestyle that has now largely disappeared. Through their father’s photographs, the viewer is invited to joyful events such as weddings, Christmas celebrations and festivals but is also walked through the quotidian life of the humble slums where gossiping women fetch water from pumps and grinning children play football in the street; the exhibition at the Institut Français focuses its attention on the annual pilgrimages that many from the community made to a French village. The work on display falls within the parameters of humanist photography so in vogue in the mid-20th century, when poverty and marginalisation inspired various photographers to capture human history on silver gelatin plates. But what sets Léonard’s images apart is his decision to approach his subjects as equals, without condemnation or romantic ideas. Thus his work transmits nothing but dignity, making it beautiful as art and irreplaceable as testimony.

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Since 2004, the Nouvelle Vague project, created by French duo Marc Collins and Olivier Libaux, has seen the release of four albums featuring sensual and chic cover versions of Eighties’ post-punk and new wave tunes sung by gorgeous women with amazing voices. The format has, unsurprisingly, won them a lot of fans and this month the group will be making many people in Barcelona happy with a performance of their new show (pictured), created with fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac. METROPOLITAN: In Barcelona, you’ll be performing Dawn of Innocence: tell us about this show, what is the inspiration behind it and what can the audience expect to see? Marc Collins: It’s a real show of a kind that we’ve never done before, strangely, with costumes, dancers, video and more musicians, and a mix of songs from the four albums, some that we’ve never performed before and even some new covers! I think it’s our best show ever, glamorous and dark! MET: The flamboyant designs of Jean-Charles de Castelbajac are quite different from the French chic look we’re used to seeing on Nouvelle Vague—what led you to work with the designer? MC: We met through Mareva Galanter, our new singer who is performing Dawn of Innocence, and last year we had the idea to create a show, Nouvelle Vague/Castelbajac. We were so happy with the result that we decided to continue this collaboration. Jean-Charles is not working with us as a fashion designer but as a contemporary artist who has a close relationship with music and post-punk. MET: What made you decide to return to your French roots with new album Couleurs Sur Paris? Do you think there are any noticeable differences between your French- and English-speaking fans? MC: It’s just that I wanted to introduce some French new wave songs to our audi-

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ence, French or not! I did a compilation in 2002 called So Young But So Cold with DJ Ivan Smagghe, presenting the originals of this era. I think that punk had a special ‘echo’ in France and we have some really good bands born out of punk, different from British or American post-punk. Bands like Elli and Jacno or Taxi Girl are good examples of this. MET: You’ve worked with a lot of sexy French female singers over the years—do you have any plans to work with more sexy French male singers like Julien Doré? MC: I produced the first album of Nicolas Comment last year—I think he’s really sexy! MET: What songs or bands are on your wish list to cover? Are you inspired by any 21st-century bands to cover their music or is it still too early for that? MC: I’m a bit tired of doing covers to be honest...I think I’ve said a lot on this subject (four albums!); it’s time to change and to write our own music, I think. MET: You’ve obviously been busy in recent months but do you have any future projects lined up? MC: I’m always producing new music... too much maybe! I’m actually finishing the album of a great Lebanese singer called Yasmine Hamdane (ex Yas)—it’s beautiful and I’m very happy with it. I also wrote the music for a concept album performed by two young French artists, a bit like Melody Nelson [a 1971 album by Serge Gainsbourg], and I’ve written a whole album of music, kind of sensual, dark and cold music, called The Cold Wave Station. MET: You play pretty regularly in Barcelona—what keeps bringing you back here? MC: We are playing everywhere a lot actually because we love to tour all around the world. Last time [we played here] was in this amazing Palau de la Música and next time will be a bit special because it’s our new show that we’ve only done three times before.

Dawn of Innocence, Sala Apolo, December 15th

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CINGLES DE BERTÍ discover spectacular views of catalunya just one hour away from the city. Text and photos by Lucy Brzoska.

Plateau on Cingles de Bertí with snow-covered Pyrenees behind

The scenery seems fairly ordinary in this part of Catalunya, quite flat with small fields and scattered woods. Then suddenly, without warning, the innocuous rural landscape disappears and the world gives way at your feet. The plateau abruptly ends, as if sliced, to reveal bare rock strata then steeply wooded slopes plunging down to the valley below. The cinglera—an inland cliff—is a defining landscape feature of central Catalunya: overlooking the Sau reservoir near Vic are the immense Cingles de Collsacabra; the Cingles de Busa loom majestically in the pre-Pyrenees of Solsona; the village of Castellfollit in La Garrotxa is defensively perched on its own cinglera. Much closer to Barcelona, and clearly visible from the city, are the Cingles de Bertí, only an hour away by train or bus whenever you feel like a walk on the edge. Named after the parish of Sant Pere de Bertí, the escarpment ripples grandiosely along one side of the Congost River, from La Garriga to Centelles. On the opposite side of the valley are the more rounded, far older mountains of Montseny. Created by the upheavals in the Palaeocene and Eocene epochs (starting around 65 and 56 million years ago, respectively), when much of Catalunya lay under the sea, the Cingles de Bertí are a recent formation, geologically speaking, too young to have witnessed the dinosaurs. At their base are deep red conglomerate rocks, while the higher strata are pale limestone packed with marine fossils. This alkaline environment explains the rich variety of orchids growing on the Cingles, unlike in Montseny with its acidic soils. To walk on the edge of the escarpment is to tread a line between the tamed farmland on one side and wild inaccessible woodland below. Eye contact is made with passing cliff-nesting raptors like kestrels and peregrine falcons. A roost of ravens favour the rocky ledges near the Aiguafreda telecommunications mast where they spend hours aerial dancing, executing barrel rolls and bill knocking. Vultures occasionally cruise past on excursions from more northerly mountains. And above all, there are the views. You constantly need to stop to take in their immensity. The panorama is at its sharpest and most dramatic in winter, when Montseny glows white with snow, and the crisp northerly air stretches the horizons from the Pyrenees to the sea. A full day’s excursion is highly recommended, starting from Sant Feliu de Codines, where you can pick up a long-distance Gran ruta (walking route), the GR 5, which will eventually drop you off at the train station in Aiguafreda (after 23.5 kilometres). It’s quite well marked with the GR red-and-white signs, but for safe navigation, it’s best to take a map (Alpina Mapa i guia excursionista series, nº. E25). The trail offers spectacular vistas of the cave monastery at Sant Miquel del Fai and its famous waterfalls, which streak down the cliff face. After a series of forest fires, the woods in this part of the Cingles have been replaced by a thick scrub of rosemary, gorse and strawberry trees. In the depths of winter, the sheltered rocks hum with industrious bumble bees visiting the blooms, a therapeutic sound at any time of year.

Waterfalls at Sant Miquel del Fai

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Another landmark, once past the semi-deserted village of Bertí, is El Clascar, a strange, mock-Gothic ruin, with vestiges of the original fortified farmhouse dating from the 10th century. Its front steps are ideal for a picnic, with views stretching back to Barcelona, where you can discern the twin towers of the Vila Olímpica. From here the route veers north, and when you re-encounter the edge of the precipice, the full glory of Montseny is spread out before you, its landmarks clearly visible: Tagamanent and Pla de la Calma. Returning to the lowlands, the GR 5 dives steeply down to the Congost Valley with its road and railway line. It’s worth knowing that if you continue following the edge of the Cingles you eventually come to a wide looping track that also descends to Aiguafreda. This way is a little longer, but far kinder on the knees. If you approach the Cingles de Bertí from the opposite direction, perhaps with a shorter walk in mind, they can look rather impenetrable, a tremendous vertical wall looming up in front of you. But the cliffs are breached by a number of paths, besides those already mentioned, known as graus. You could climb up the PR C-33 (Pequeña ruta, marked with yellow-and-white signs) from Figaro train station, for instance, surfacing at the top via the Grau de la Trona. After following the cliff edge north, the Grau del Sunyer will take you back down to the station of Sant Martí de Centelles at Aiguafreda. Like many of the paths, it’s rather secretive but can be located with some careful map reading. The Cingles are beautiful throughout the year. Aromatic herbs thrive, and the scent of thyme is strong even in winter, becoming almost overpowering in the heat of summer. In early spring, the rocky edges are covered in rushleaf jonquils, a diminutive kind of daffodil, their waxy yellow flowers clustering around the rosemary and juniper bushes. Late spring sees the pyramid orchids rise above the other wild flowers on tall strong stems. Summer is alive with butterflies and lizards, while scorpions hide under the rocks, and flocks of swifts and house martins come calling from the valley. When you return from the heights and look back, the great curves of the cinglera seem like the prows of immense galleons, stranded far inland. Up around the telecommunications mast, the ravens swarm before settling down for the night on their inaccessible ledges.

TRAVEL INFO - Sagalés bus company runs a service to Sant Feliu de Codines, leaving from Passeig de Sant Joan with Diputació, near Tetuan metro. Timetables at: - Trains to Figaro and Sant Martí de Centelles (station for Aiguafreda) go from Sants and Plaça Catalunya. - Go to Altair Bookshop (Gran Via 616) for maps. - Don’t forget to take plenty of water. Lucy Brzoska runs nature tours and writes for the website

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his year the Hotel Omm and its emblematic restaurant Moo turned eight years old. And 2011 also saw its gastronomic directors, the Roca brothers, earn their Can Roca restaurant in Girona the accolade of ‘second best in the world’ at the San Pellegrino Restaurant Awards. It’s been four years at least since I last ate at Moo, so I was excited to return for a number of reasons. I’ve always been a fan of the Omm. It has a certain hedonistic spirit about it that makes you want to hang around: the lively bar, the moody lighting, the upbeat DJ mixes. And when I pondered my list of potential fine dining experiences for Christmas I picked Moo because I thought it was the least stuffy of that particular ilk of restaurant. After all, who wants to be on their best behaviour for the silly season? Being a month too early to cover what sounds like a solid, traditional Christmas menu (see opposite), we were invited to the ‘Joan Roca Tasting’ (€140) interpreted by Moo’s head chef Felip Llufriu, who’s been king of the stoves here since day one. He’s usually great, but I’m not sure what happened that night. The first set of amusing little morsels comprised two lumpy cocktail lozenges—Mojito and Bloody Mary— encased in a waxy film, a chunk of melon rolled in not very nice jamón bits, a pastry thimble filled with creamed anchovy, which did at least pack a punch, a flabby oyster, something unidentifiable in a flavourless foam, and a squiggle of squid on a tepid, gloopy soy sauce. It was a bit of a rabbit-caughtin-headlights moment, which happily was saved by a cooling shitake jelly as delicate as anything you’d get in Japan and a very moreish, miniature papada and apple ‘sandwich’ that almost made me oink with delight. A shout out also to sommelier Xavier Ayala who pointed us towards two of the best wine recommendations I’ve had

in a Barcelona restaurant. An aromatic white Masia Carreras 2009 from the Empordà and a limited edition Torroja from the Priorat, which was curiously light and zippy, almost Pinot Noir-like in its rather more dangerous 14 percent. Still, it’s nearly Christmas, right? An egg yolk encased in edible gold surrounded by crispy, crunchy bacon bits came close to the kind of bedazzlement I was hoping for—like an English breakfast laid by a golden goose, I think. It’s fun, irreverent and smacks of festive frivolity, but I was less enthused by the deconstructed Russian salad. It had some clever molecular gastronomy tricks, granted—the esférico olives and the shards of beetrooty ‘leather’—but compositionally it was a little dull. The next few dishes were good. The carpaccio of ceps with foie gras was earthy, foresty and reassuringly rich, and the sole with five Mediterranean themed sauces was excellent, grilled to perfection and brimming with oceanic freshness. A shoulder of pigeon on pigeon tartar comprised big, gamey flavours and looked totally haute, like something you might see at the Tate Modern! And I enjoyed the pungent sliver of sheep’s cheese cleverly paired with candied apple and fennel. In my notes about dessert, I’ve jotted down the mysterious words ‘fairground heaven’, which I assume referred to Catherine wheels of jellied strawberries and the general pinkness of the thing. There’s something fanciful and quite fun about it, which is more than I can say for a soufflé of white chocolate with berry sorbet that was strangely lacking in much of anything. But we ended on a high with a nibble on a couple of densely chocolately petit fours representing all that is great in patisserie. All in all then, it wasn’t a bad meal; it was just a bit varied

Read TARA’S food and drink blog for the latest gourmet news and reviews:

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and I expected more va-va-voom. You can’t deny the technical skill and the prettiness of the plates, but it seems that somewhere along the way that essential sprinkling of pixie dust had got lost. Weirdly, when I researched public opinion on Trip Advisor everyone was raving about the Vegetarian menu (priced €80) so perhaps that’s the way to go. It’s certainly worth considering for a non-carnivorous special occasion. Meanwhile, here’s hoping Moo gets its mojo back for Christmas.

Moo—Rosselló 265 (in Hotel Omm). Tel. 93 445 4000. Mon to Sat, 1.30-4pm and 8.3011pm. From €80 to €140 for a tasting menu, less if you go à la carte. moo. Tara’s rating: ✪✪ MOO’s CHRISTMAS MENU—€74 (not including drinks) - Appetisers - Christmas ‘escudella’ (Catalan soup) - Canelones - Wild sea bass on a bouillabaisse broth - Confit of goat kid in rosemary with parmentier of potatoes - Caramelised apple tart with vanilla ice-cream - Torrons and other sweetmeats - Petit fours

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quick bites



By Tara Stevens. Photos by Tashoma Lemard.

hen I first started getting seriously into Spanish food, I was told that slicing jamón—and by jamón I’m referring to Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, not the inferior Serrano—with an electric blade compromised the taste of it. Evidently the heat causes a minor chemical reaction in the fat and the flesh, which subtly but irrevocably changes the flavour. As such, aficionados will insist that the porcine delicacy should always be hand carved, a theory that is wholeheartedly embraced by Daniel and Angela at the newly-opened Little Ibèric in the Barri Gòtic. Here they carve all their small, but carefully chosen, selection of jamóns by hand, the best in show being a four-year-old from the D.O. Dehesa de Extremadura—dehesa refers to the oak wooded hills of the region, which provide the crucial acorn diet of the pigs—that has a tarry-looking skin, petit black trotters, flesh the colour of old wine and fat as sweet and yellow as butterscotch. Fifty grams of this baby—just about enough for two—will cost you €12, but what a taste: nutty, sweet, fragrant with acorn forests and a firm yet buttery texture that doesn’t so much melt on the tongue as caress it. The way it’s carved is equally seductive, with the trotter el-

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egantly a-point into the air and the silvery blade of the jamón knife carefully peeling off perfect slivers of meat—about 75 percent flesh to 25 percent fat. If you’re treating yourself to something special this Christmas, this one’s a no-brainer. Little Ibèric, Escudellers 56, tel. 93 676 2211, The best of the rest—other hams to try Barcelona’s markets are, of course, full of charcuterie stalls selling not only fine jamóns, but all the other porky treats that make your Christmas table groan beneath their weight. The D.O. for Jamón Ibérico covers three different regions as well as Extremadura: in the north, the town of Guijelo in Salamanca is best known for Joselito, widely considered to be one of the best producers in Spain. Until recently, it was almost certainly the jamón you would be served in Spain’s fine dining restaurants, though a surge of boutique producers is changing that. To the west, the town of Jabugo in Huelva, Andalucía is home to 5J Sánchez Romero Carvajal—otherwise known as Cinco Jotas—and to the east, the more recently appointed region of Valle de Los Pedroches, just north of Cordoba.

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Food &Drink

For more in food&drink NEFW &D IN

visit our online directory

Bar 7Sins Bar and Lounge 4EIXAMPLE e If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place to get a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! Their menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterfield sofas and impressive decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at  UNDER 20 |  20-30 |  30-40 |  OVER 40 RV Reservation Advised | NEW in food & drink this month

Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat | Tel. 93 453 6445 | Mon-Sun 1pm till late | RV

American THE ORIGINAL AMERICAN SUPERMARKET 4Sant Gervasi Good news from Taste of America! All of the products you miss from the U.S.A., from BBQ sauces to breakfast treats, are now in Barcelona. Cheerios, Hershey’s chocolates, peanut butter and jelly, Newman’s Own sauces, Wilton, root beer, Peperidge Farm, marshmallows, macaroni & cheese, bagels and more are just some of the goodies that await discovery. Go visit, you’ll be amazed! And for your convenience, there is public parking right at the rear of the store!



Ever wished you could share a cocktail with Audrey Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart here in Barcelona? Well now you can! Cinebar brings the golden age of cinema back to Barcelona with original version screenings of everything from Hollywood classics to French New Wave and Italian neo-realism. While you’re there, enjoy a ‘cine sandwich’ made from a selection of rustic breads, a movie-themed salad, fresh juices, smoothies, proper Italian coffee or, of course, a cocktail. 


Balmes 322 I FGC Sant Gervasi Tel. 93 211 9792 I Mon-Fri 10am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-9pm, Sun 11am-2pm

Plaça Cardona 4 | FGC Gràcia Paris 200 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 002 2300 | Open 8am-3am

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro L3 Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I Open from Mon-Fri 9.30-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

Josep Anselm Clave 6 | Metro Drassanes Tel. 93 412 5489 | | Mon-Fri 1.30pm-4pm, 8pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun 6pm-2.30am | RV

ou can tles so y ith subti w p ro d ack om the d as a b music fr d te screene c le lly se flaherty's4BARRI GÒTIC fu PINK ELEPHANT the care ould c o enjoy u ls a o 4EIXAMPLE y hed es. it was established in 2001, Flaherty’s Since ls the Sixtihas become one of Barcelona’s best known ver wis cocktai a hirties to n T o l e Barcelona’s first contemporary American rc and busiest Irish pubs. By offering ade food hare Ba urn or wich’ m (including restaurant and cocktail bar, now in s their b p all day from‘c10am satilndmidnight e e H in y a njoy Full Irish Breakfasthas fourth year, invite you to indulge your h Audre ed as our, epopular . -t emwell e there wit you can a moviesports on big senses. All menu items are made to order , satellite group menus), live ile you’r s w h d o a W N re b c e a sunny terrace of rustiWiFi, coaffepool and their desserts are baked on the premnscreens, Bogart? alianand er Itplay selectio room where you ropalso pcan darts, not mphrey , s from a ises by an American chef. H Toucomplement ie th , smoo your visit, browse their selection of wine ona is a h juictoesmention its very spacious premises, za Card lad, fres la a Flaherty’s s P in R and beer from the U.S. including the latest .has rightly become known as CINEBA re’s cocktail urse, athe pub that has it all!  s is, the opened additions from the Brooklyn Brewery. o w c ly e f w n o e d n r, o The the goo C/ ns and vents, r film fa 00 (with fo 2 , t s e ri n a g r your e ma on C/P ation fo g c in lo n t e c p e ch o swanky e perf er bran Villarroel 82 I Metro L1 Urgell/L5 Hospital Clinic stivals to bar is th e noth fe a in . C lm th fi n i Tel. 93 502 4825 I this mo and min nados) ken not jections ni – sha |M Metro Drassanes Enric Gra rti from pro Plaça Joaquim Xirau a Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, 7pm-1am, Sat 1pm-4pm, a r it ’s ktail, Tel. 93 412 ck the6263 7pm-3am, Sun 7pm-1am gne coc ema ba So whe Champa ge of cin oirées. a a s r n o e r ld e f e go ’re aft kid. nings o brings th that you g at you n scree Cinebar ersio tirred – ’s lookin s v l re Bar Live Music a e in H g r. h ori nch Cineba lona wit s to Fre nd it at to Barce you’ll fi Margarita Blue d classic o o BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA w y ll om Ho lms are 4BARRI GÒTIC thing fr m. All fi every o-realis e n Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be n a li a It d n a My Bagel is the right place for you. They ave Located in the heart of old Barcelona, New W sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just Margarita Blue has become a classic how you like them. in the city’s bar scene. Delight in the They have an extensive range of bagels dishes from the ‘‘Mexiterranean” kitchand cakes, from the more classic choices en, such as a variety of tacos, amazing such as poppy and multigrain to delicious fresh carpaccio and tomates ar ebguacamole, in C and innovative chocolate, almond and verdes fritos or take pleasure in a drink coconut bagels - you’ll not come away or cocktail whilst appreciating new rdona 4 and spectacular shows that alterdisappointed.  Plaza Ca smusic 200 between theatre and performance ari nate Carrer P 1 7 9  art. 970 Tel. 651 300 2 2 0 0 93

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FOOD & DRINK 41 delivery gourMet eXPreSS 4BARCELONA ‘Lunch Box’ by Gourmet Express. The best alternative to pizza or Asian food. A new concept in Barcelona; they are specialists in delivering high-quality food to your home or office at reasonable prices. They can deliver within 30 minutes, exquisite menús, made by our own chefs using only the freshest products. Traditional Catalan and Mediterranean food to satisfy the most discerning palate, thoughtfully served with all you might need, including metal cutlery and glasses. All so you can enjoy food in the comfort of your home or office. Free delivery to readers of Barcelona Metropolitan.  Pasaje Milans 28 | Tel. 93 260 0789

VitaLi PiZZa Special Metropolitan offer: Buy 3 pizzas and get the 4th pizza FREE + a bottle of Lambrusco. 

hard roCK Cafe4CIUTAT VELLA Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clinic I Tel. 93 444 4737 Gran Via 931 I Metro Clot | Tel. 93 303 0735 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gracia | Tel. 93 285 41 95

ice Cream Shop BeLLaMia heLaderia itaLiana4BORN

Hard Rock Cafe Barcelona offers an inspired, creative ambience with incredible rock‘n’roll memorabilia on display. Come and taste authentic American food. Their barbecue entrées slow cooked in the cafe’s hardwood smokers are delicious. Visit the bar to try a premium cocktail and check out the live music and special events on offer. Don’t forget to stop at the Rock Shop for fine, classic, cotton T-shirts or a collectable Hard Rock pin. 

After a long day of discovering Barcelona, people queue up to taste Bellamia’s exquisite gelato. The reason: friendly staff, an excellent location, but most of all, delicious, freshly made ice cream that gets rave reviews from everyone who’s tried it. 

Epaseria 14 | Metro Jaume I | Tel. 93 310 4210 1pm-midnight (50m from Santa Maria del Mar)

food &drink

Plaça Catalunya 21 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 270 2305 | | Restaurant: Sun-Thurs 12am-2am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 12am-3am | Rock Shop: Sun-Thurs 10am-1.30am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 10am-2am

to advertise in this section please call 93 451 4486 or email


the dog iS hot4RAVAL Taste the best hotdogs in town! Choose from more than 20 different toppings and sauces, including a vegetarian option with tofu sausage. Our specialities will surprise, with crazy flavours from all around the world. Joaquin Costa 47 I Near Plz. Universidad and MACBA Museum I T. 93 185 9517 Open every day 1pm-11pm, delivery fri-sun 7pm-11pm or call for our delivery service

gut4GRÀCIA Firstly there’s the food. Using only the finest quality ingredients, the kitchen specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with an international twist and plenty of options for vegetarians. Try their quinoa and tofu burgers or a sinful home-made dessert. Secondly, there’s Gut’s attention to detail and the friendly, respectful service. It’s the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the night in good company. Try it for yourself and find out why everyone is talking about Gut. 

Perill 13 I Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 186 6360 I

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fahrenheit4EIXAMPLE E Fahrenheit is a cosmopolitan location that combines fine dining within a modern sophisticated lounge. Already a highly-rated kitchen, Fahrenheit’s restaurant recently introduced an acclaimed new chef and completely new menu. Each dish originates from a different country and is carefully elaborated to respect the traditions of that cuisine while adding a very contemporary touch. Fahrenheit is the perfect place to savour your meal and relax with a drink after dinner. Try one of our carefully prepared cocktails or maybe something from our extensive list of gin and tonics—the house speciality. Fahrenheit’s new ‘Afterwork Lounge’, is a great place to enjoy a complimentary tapa with a glass of wine or international beer to help you unwind after a long day in the office. 

Aribau 131 | Metro Diagonal/Hospital Clinic | Tel. 93 531 3435 |

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42 FOOD & DRINK Juice and Smoothie Bar

indian - hindu



Barcelona’s emblematic juice bar now also serves vegan breakfast that includes tortilla de patata, muesli with raw cashew yogurt, muffins, waffles, coffee and tea. Chill out in the bar for smoothies or enjoy a sandwich or a full meal in the restaurant. 

Discover a world of sensations in a relaxed and homely atmosphere. Try vegetarian delicacies from all over the world such as delicious bread home-made in a Tandoori oven and south Indian dishes like Masala dosa and Idly. Daily continental and Indian menus, 9.50 inc. Free soup and salad buffet. 

Cardenal Casañas 7 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 302 4330 Every day 10am-Midnight


Want a healthy, tasty alternative? Try a refreshing smoothie like Antioxidant, Mango & Passion Fruit or Coco Muesli (3.80) or a delicious juice made only with fresh blended fruit and no added water, milk or sugar (3.60). Can’t decide? Try one of their convenient combos from 4.50.  Gran de Gràcia 16 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 93 217 8115 Jaume 1 | Metro Jaume I | Tel. 93 310 3247 Creu Coberta 50 | Metro Espanya | Tel. 93 117 0891 Every day 10am-8pm | |

Bruniquer 26 | Metro Plaça Joanic Tel. 93 210 7056 | Tues-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.30pm

Japanese - Sushi

Mexican frida'S4EIXAMPLE D


In the heart of L’Eixample Dret, Frida’s is an inviting spot dedicated to the great Mexican painter Frida Kahlo. Taste exquisite regional cuisine from both northern and southern Mexico, as well as traditional specialties. Margaritas, Mexican beers and many types of tequila. Ask for our “Al Pastor” tacos offer of Thursday and Fridays! 

Nakashita is Barcelona’s newest sushi restaurant, a cosy place where you can enjoy the best Japanese food and freshest seafood. Located close to the Arc de Triomf, the restaurant feels like an authentic Japanese tavern with a very intimate atmosphere. Enjoy your delicious food along with wine, Japanese beer or sake. 

Rec Comtal 15 | Metro Arc De Triomf, Tel. 93 295 5378 | Mon-Sun 1.30pm-4.30pm, 8.30pm-12am

Bruc 115 | T. 93 457 5409 | Metro Girona Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-midnight. Bar open all day. Lunch menu €10.30 Mon-Fri

Mediterranean toyo - SuShi train4GRÀCIA Among the youth it’s the most sought after Sushi Train Restaurant in Barcelona. It’s the absolute place to be if you’re in with the in crowd and always packed five minutes after opening. It has a quality buffet with super fresh food prepared daily, Toyo is the place to go. Not only do they have a huge amount of different types of dishes, but you can also eat as much as your heart desires. Choose what you like while it passes in front of you, you don’t have to spend a fortune to get great service. Toyo gives you amazing food for a good price. The midday menu is only 10 and the evening one is 15.  Torrent del Olla 10 | T. 93 459 2630 Open 1.30pm-4pm, 8.30pm-Midnight Closed Mon night

SUSHIEXPRESS4EIXAMPLE If you want to enjoy the best sushi service in the city, this is your place! Sushiexpress takes great pride in using top quality ingredients to ensure excellent sushi. They are conveniently located in two places in the city: l’Eixample and Santaló, and they can deliver it to your home or hotel. Delivery is from 1pm-3pm and from 8pm-11pm. You can choose individual pieces of maki, nigiri, sashimi, temaki, menus, combos, and other Japanese specialties from an extensive menu that you can check on their website. If you eat at any of their locations at noon the menus are accompanied by a free drink.  Consell de Cent 255 | Tel. 93 451 5454 Open 12pm-4pm, 7pm-11pm 365days/year! Delivery 1pm-3pm, 8pm-10.30pm

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roMero4 EIXAMPLE D Located in the centre of the city, just a few streets from Passeig de Grácia, this exquisite and charming restaurant serves fresh, organic produce sourced directly from local markets. The staff are determined to share their love for Barcelona and its culinary wonders and only use the best ingredients to create their delicious dishes. The idea behind the restaurant was to create a unique space where good friends could come together and enjoy great Mediterranean food and wine. The chef at Romero, José Antonio Camacaro León, has an unmatched passion for food and offers his guests creative, natural dishes based on Mediterranean cuisine. With options for vegetarians and gluten-free menu items, there’s something to suit all tastes. Be sure to check out the great value set menus and daily specials too.  Bailén 115 | Metro Verdaguer or Girona | Tel. 93 457 0640 | | Mon to Sat Lunch starting at 1pm Mon-Fri 5pm-9pm, Thu-Sat Dinner starting at 8.30pm

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Vegetarian BarnaBier4PORT OLÍMPIC


Located at the base of the Mapfre tower at Port Olimpic Barnabier specialise in Mediterranean cuisine, paellas, fresh seafood, tapas and have a great list of international beers. Their fantastic menu also includes salads, grilled meat and pasta with something to suit all tastes. For group reservations consult their website for the complete menu. 

Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant where tasty and healthy meals are served in a welcoming environment. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure all ingredients are fresh and dishes are well balanced. Menu of the day 10.50, night and weekend menu 15. 

Marina 16 | Metro Port Olimpic Tel . 93 221 0212 |

Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-11.30pm, Closed Sun

Patisserie MaS PaStiSSerS

JuiCy JoneS – Vegan reStaurant 4RAVAL

Established in 1966, Mas Pastissers have a long tradition of pastry-making in Barcelona. Since then, they’ve continued to create explosions of flavours in their patisseries. Through experience and research they’re constantly improving to make small works of art. All of Mas Pasitssers’ products are made from the perspective that they have a personal responsibility to their customers to help them maintain a healthy and balanced diet. The Slow Food philosophy is found in their line of products. Lunch menú available. 

Barcelona’s best vegan restaurant , Juicy Jones never compromises on freshness or quality. They serve a range of Mediterranean and Indian cuisine with a funky ambience they also offer a large variety of freshly squeezed fruit juices and smoothies. Don’t be fooled by imitations. Go Juicy!  Hospital 74 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 443 9082 | Every day 12pm-1am

goVinda (Vegetarian)4BARRI GÒTIC A restaurant veteran for 24 years, Govinda specialises in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. It offers a veganfriendly, non-alcoholic and authentically decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. 

Còrsega 398 | Tel. 93 207 0764 Passeig Maragall 66 | Tel. 93 455 1987 Passeig Maragall 269 | Tel. 93 435 4873

Placa Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 | | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-12am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm



La VietnaMita 4GRÀCIA

PiM PaM Burger4BORN Here quality is of the upmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises. 


La Vietnamita is a new food concept in the heart of Gràcia - offering fresh and healthy Vietnamese inspired cuisine. They offer light and nutritious dishes such as traditional ‘Pho’ soup, the typical rice noodle dish ‘Bun Xiau’ and classic ‘Goi Cuon’ spring rolls. All their dishes are prepared in the moment and served with ingredients that are naturally full of flavour. Veggies and vegans: They have a lot to offer you, too! So what are you waiting for?  Torrent de L’Olla 78 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 93 518 1803 |

Sabateret 4 I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I www. I Every day 1pm-12am

thai thai graCia4GRÀCIA Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 11 menú del diá is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more. 

Bun Bo ViÊtnaM4BARRI GÒTIC Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV

thai thai4EIXAMPLE E Thai Thai restaurant invites you to taste and enjoy traditional Thai food with tropical ingredients from Thailand prepared by Thai chefs. They specialise in all kinds of Thai curries. Thai Thai has created a delicious tasting menu for only 24 and a fresh menu of the day is on offer for 9.50 during the week.  Diputació 91 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 620 938 059 | Princep Jordi 6 | Metro España | Tel. 663 126 398 | Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV |

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Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes. Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace. The kitchen is open non-stop all day. 

Sagristans 3 | Metro Urquinaona | Tel. 93 301 1378 | | Every day 1pm-1am

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Business directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: See also our online directory at


* Discount for Metropolitan readers

Scissors of London -


Carrer Viladomat 45-47, Atico M. 633 382 787

Pintor Fortuny 14, Raval Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3) T. 93 302 3379 Open Mon 4pm-8pm, Tues-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-8pm

BRITISH HAIRDRESSER Tim aspires to listen to your needs and suggests how they might be met in distinctive and exciting ways. Style is unique and Tim will craft you a look achieving a harmony of shape and style. Tim has been hairdressing for over 12 years. Having trained, taught and worked in London’s top salons including Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon. Opting out of salon life, Tim works to fit in with the modern pace of life and offers a one to one service orientated around your needs.

Kinki peluqueros is an international hairstyling group from Holland with over 40 salons in their home country. They put their heart and soul into cutting and colouring the most beautiful hairstyles, from the latest trends to classic cuts. If you bring a friend for a full treatment they will give you both a 15% discount and a free glass of cava. English, Spanish, Dutch, German and French speaking.

Anthony Llobet English Hair Salon - HAIRDRESSER


Don’t let your Spanish come between you and your hair. Anglo-Catalan Anthony Llobet has over 20 years’ experience in hairstyling and a passion for excellent client service. Anthony leads a dedicated team of stylists who specialise in a variety of services, including Afro hair, extensions, straightening and make-up (and speak over 11 languages between them). The original retro interior and friendly staff create a very special atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy a stylish cut. Put your trust in Anthony and the team, who are strongly committed to providing you with outstanding service at affordable prices.

What sets apart an Aveda beauty professional? Their mission is to bring out their client’s natural beauty. Aveda partners with salon and spa professionals around the world. They see beauty as a craft and believe that authentic beauty is one that works in harmony with nature. Authentic beauty cares for the environment we inherited and that we’ll leave to the generations that follow us. Authentic beauty cares about society, creating harmony in the way we live and the way we interact with one another as human beings. Taller lives this mission to the full, offering gentle and natural hair and beauty treatments in a unique and beautiful space in the heart of the Born.

Gràcia, C/Ros de Olano 19 T. 93 218 0449 / M. 692 371 307 Raval, C/Sant Pau 122 T. 93 441 3177 / M. 692 371 308 El Born, C/Carders 34 T.93 295 4871 / M. 692 371 404 Gòtic, C/Avinyó 34 T. 93 301 4513 / M. 692 371 405

Pescateria 8, Born T. 93 315 0980 Metro: Barceloneta (L4) Open Mon 2pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 11am-8pm

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La Hair Boutique -


Trained by Toni & Guy London, Veronique runs a friendly salon with a dedicated team who speak English, Spanish, French and Swedish. La Hair Boutique is a relaxed and cosy salon that offers progressive cuts and colours with great style advice too. They are especially talented at creating new, personalised looks using the latest techniques.

Plaça Regomir 5 Metro: Jaume 1 (L4). T. 93 269 1937 M. 699 643 462


The Vital Touch MASSAGE


The Vital Touch Massage Clinic helps stressed women and men, to relax, energise, re-balance and improve their health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - Deep tissue massage with Japanese acupressure points. - Helps relieve tension, reduces stress and removes physical strains. - Hot stone massage also available - Central Barcelona location. *20% off for Metropolitan readers. M. 659 995 657

VeterCat Melisa Oddo


The best at-home veterinary care for your pet in the province of Barcelona. French and English-speaking veterinarian. Vaccination, general medicine, behaviour problems, emergencies, etc. Thanks to her love for animals, Melisa Oddo offers you the best vet service in your home. Try it for yourself and be impressed.

Professional and friendly, the Bonavet veterinary clinic provides veterinary consultations, x-rays, analyses and surgery. They can also advise you on dietary requirements and stock a complete range of special food products, beds and toys to keep your pets healthy and happy. If you make an appointment you can even bring your pet down for a grooming session and trim.


M. 620 157 753

Plaça Bonanova 10, 08022 T. 93 211 0204

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR


Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 FGC Diagonal or Gràcia

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Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care for the English-speaking community in Barcelona with access to all medical specialties and tests.

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro: Les Corts (L3) T. 93 330 2412 M. 627 669 524 Open Mon-Sat

Pharmacy Serra Mandri


The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service. Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

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Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

Dr. Alistair Gallagher - DENTIST

For all your dental needs, a team consisting of our first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. We have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you our services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Any fears about going to the dentist or a possible language barrier are diminished here with the caring, relaxed atmosphere. Dr Alistair Gallagher’s clinic keeps up to date with the latest developments in dentistry in order to provide the best care possible, at affordable prices.

Rosselló 95, local, 08029, Barcelona Metro: Hospital Clinic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220

Diagonal 281 Metro: Sagrada Familia (L5) Monumental (L2) T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335

Dr. Christian Eickhoff deutsche zk - DENTIST

Tingsvall & McCarthy

Highly recommended among the international community uses the latest in dental technology like digital prothetics and orthodontics. The whole german team is English speaking and the doctor has an American training in implantology and orthodontics. Check-ups and X-rays are free. Centrally located

Dr. Stefan Tingsvall offers general dentistry, orthodontics, prosthodontics and endodontics, whilst Elena McCarthy is a qualified dental hygienist and specialises in comprehensive preventative care and tooth whitening Bright Smile. Together, they aim to provide a relaxing and pleasant experience for the patient.

Consell de Cent 249, bajos Metro Universitat (L1/L2) T. 93 323 9629

Castellnou 47 T. 93 205 1903 M. 636 312 522 / 696 664 430 FGC Les Tres Torres (L6) Bus: 16, 30, 66, 70, 72, 74 Open Mon-Sat


American Chiropractic Center - Doctors of Chiropractic


Do you suffer from problems such as lower back pain, sciatica, neck pain, headaches, shoulder and articular pain, discal hernia, fibromyalgia, or stress? Dr Chiappinelli and his team pride themselves on providing friendly and professional chiropractic care, with the clear aim of improving the patient’s health. The clinics, located in Barcelona and Sitges, have individual treatment rooms which are equipped with the most up-to-date and innovative technology. Dr. Chiappinelli and his team all qualified from the top American and French universities and have worked for 20 years to ensure and provide an unbeatable service. They speak English, French, German and Italian. Make an appointment at one of the clinics and let the team help you to reach your maximum health potential.

As a trained Life Coach, Counsellor and Emotional Therapist, I will help you to change situations you don’t like in your life. Life is your opportunity to learn and understand, and what life asks of you in return is to achieve that understanding so that you feel happy and gleaming with content. You did not come here to suffer, live in rage, envy, rancor, resentment, dissatisfaction or sadness; but to laugh, love and feel lucky. Maybe you have limiting or painful thoughts that make you believe that “this is all there is,” but in reality you have within your reach the fascinating power to change your way of life and relate to other people with well-being and happiness (even though right now it seems difficult or impossible).

Barcelona: Pau Claris, 139 3o 2a T. 93 487 5035 Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L3, L5) Sitges: Rafael Llopart 74, T. 93 811 0101

M. 676 698 529

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Eugenia Espinosa PSYCHOTHERAPY

Eugenia is a dedicated professional who specialises in psychological issues related to immigration. She offers effective treatment for mood and anxiety disorders as well as couples and family therapy. The first consultation with Eugenia is free.

M. 677 090 479

Network of English Speaking Therapists Established in 2000

Mercè Boixet - CLINICAL & NEURO PsychoLOGIST

English-speaking clinical psychologist trained in Barcelona and the UK. Having worked in the UK for 17 years Mercè Boixet now works in Barcelona and offers psychological assessment and treatment to adults experiencing depression, anxiety, addictions, problems adjusting to life changes as well as difficulties coping with physical illness and neurological conditions. An initial half-hour consultation is free. Via Augusta 120 2º 1ª (Plaça Molina) M. 638 510 314


Jonathan Lane Hooker

NEST is a dedicated team of Englishspeaking therapists who provide professional services to individuals, families, schools and companies. They include highly-qualified, licensed psychologists, psychotherapists and educational specialists who live and work in Barcelona and offer their outstanding services to the Englishspeaking community in the city. For more details on our practitioners, visit our website or see our advertisement in the main pages.

Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

Berta Garcia, M.D, MsC. PSYCHIATRIST

Having specialized in neurobiology and anxiety disorders for her Masters at the University of Maastricht and Florence, she is also well experienced in adult and child psychiatry in both public and private systems. As an English-speaking psychiatrist, she has worked for many renowned international institutions providing an excellent service with multidisciplinary treatment. Manuel Isaías López, MD, PhD Claudia Ros Tusquets MA Clinical Psychologist Child and Adolescent Psychiatrist & Psychoanalyst & Psychotherapist M./626 934 102 962 657 232 570 641 692 686 991 742

All NEST professionals are Licensed / Certified


English - Spanish - Catalan - Dutch - German - Italian

- Psychotherapist

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team work with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese and Greek and the first consultation is free.

Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802


Krishinda Powers Duff

Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialised in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.

Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation service. She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. Midwife means ‘to be with woman’.


Bsc Hons - Midwife

M. 665 143 437 M. 644 193 825

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Marenostrum Centre de Salut familiar

Fontanella 16 Principal, 08010

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Steve Elite Fitness PERSONAL TRAINER

Steve is a fully-qualified, professional personal trainer, who has worked with some of the strongest British and American athletes (UK strength coach for national judo team) and is now enjoying bringing these benefits to motivated private clients in the Barcelona area and beyond. After years of experience and with a fun, personalised and hands-on approach, he guarantees an impressive change in your physical fitness, energy levels and confidence. M. 635 661 961



RYA Sailing and powerboat courses. Always wanted to get on the water, but didn’t know how? Now you can! MT Sailing is an RYA training centre right here in Barcelona, offering theory and practical courses at all levels from Start Yachting or Powerboat all the way to professional Yachtmaster Ocean. Internationally recognized qualifications are taught and examined in English. During classes, support is available in Spanish. Their flexible course schedules include intensive, weekend and evenings. To discuss your sailing ambitions, call Michael 695 806 029. Start your adventure today! Special discounts for Metropolitan readers!

M. 695 806 029

Princesa 56 T. 93 319 6754 M. 656 860 471



The Inysi Industrial team are professionals in plumbing and electrical services, air conditioning and satellite installation. Providing services for over 60 years to households and companies, no job is too big or too small for them. If you’re looking for someone reliable that you can trust, then get in touch today.

Looking for help without the worry of getting lost in translation? This experienced team of builders provide a range of services, including renovations, bespoke carpentry, kitchens and bathrooms, decoration, shopfitting, electrical installations, IT networks, satellite TV, architectural services and exhibition stands. Get in touch with tProject for an obligationfree quote.

M. 657 994 630 Alcolea 42, Bajos Metro: Plaça de Sants (L1, L5)

Contact: John Steven Thorp T. 93 460 7803 M. 691 664 806


Graham Collins -

Advalua is a team of architects and professionals that can find and/or reform the property for sale or rent that you’re looking for, whether to live or work in. They offer a complete range of services: they inspect and evaluate properties; carry out renovation estimates and projects as well as coordinate all the work to be done; process the permits, technical documents and everything you need.

Graham Collins is an experienced interior designer and property consultant and can help with everything concerning property, design and decoration. So, whether you need help working out the property market or are looking for someone to renovate your home, Graham is here to help you.

M.693 726 721

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Explore Barcelona in style with Via Vespa. Rent a new and automatic Italian Vespa LX 50 and go from the beach to the hills, dive into the city centre and find your way through the charming little streets of Barcelona. Rent your vespa by the hour or take a tour with friends. The coolest way to see the city.


Consolat del Mar 35, 3er Metro: Barceloneta (L4) M. 678 757 511

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Flat for sale - PROPERTY Fantastic central, bright, modern, flat just metres from Metro Paral·lel (L2 & L3). 46sqm, external, 1 double bedroom, communal terrace. Completely renovated 2010; parquet floors, new bathroom and kitchen. New appliances, available furnished if desired. Great location 30 seconds from metro Paral·lel/Pl. Molino. Walk to Sant Antoni Market, Ramblas or Montjuic. Would suit couple or investor. Price: €165,000.

To view call Annette M. 685 013 885

Flat for sale - PROPERTY Flat for sale (71m2) in the up and coming area of Poble-sec. 5th floor (including Principal) in a listed building with a lift. 3 bedrooms, lounge/ dining room, kitchen, bathroom and store room. Central heating and air conditioning, double glazing with aluminium frames and 3 balconies with lots of light. In the heart of Barcelona, 15 minutes to Las Ramblas and to the port. Well maintained, ideal for investors. Price: €245,000.

To view call Victor M. 661 673 390

Aspasios Rentals & Services - PROPERTY


Staying at Aspasios Apartments in Barcelona and Madrid DISCOUNT is the perfect way to enjoy Spain! Feel at home in a new city. Check-in/out at any time and day of the year. Optional airport transfer. Welcome in English, French, Spanish, Catalan, German, Dutch and Russian. Phone assistance 24/7. Individual arrangements for cleaning services. Accommodation for days, months or years. Special discounts for Metropolitan readers! For further information please contact them. T. 93 304 1448

Corase - REMOVALS Corase specialise in international removals and have a worldwide network of agents. You can trust them with any type of move, big or small. Their staff are attentive to each client’s needs and are trained to ensure that you get quality, speed and security. Corase also offer a range of other services, including storage facilities. They will be happy to give you a free quote. Av. Diagonal 249 Metro: Monumental (L2) T. 90 070 2270 (free)

Van - Removals VanBCN offers experience, good service and inexpensive rates to make your move or removal safe and easy. Whether you are looking for man with a van for a quick move or if you want to do a complete removal, just call or send your request online. VanBCN adapts its service to your needs. They can pick up your stuff or take it to the port, airport or storage. Deliver home your purchases from IKEA or any other shop. Move your office, your room or your house. Just contact VanBCN. They know how to do it. T. 93 426 7684 M. 647 533 344

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BCN Metropol - LANGUAGE SCHOOL Study Spanish in one of Spain’s most established and prestigious language schools. Since 1982 Metropol have provided high-quality language training to students of all nationalities. The school is right in the heart of Barcelona city centre and it’s a great place to learn or improve your Spanish. It’s a popular and specialised school, with more than 27 years of experience and they offer great value Spanish courses for all levels. In order for every student to have the best experience possible, the qualified teachers use the Prisma method which is recognised by the Instituto Cervantes. The material is modern and effective for small groups and there is also free internet access. Metropol promises high quality at low prices and registration is free with this ad. T. 93 301 8241 Pau Claris 87, 1o1a Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4)

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One-to-One -

SPANISH CLASSES Learn exactly what you need with one-to-one Spanish classes in the office or at home. Focus your classes on the language and vocabulary that best serves you according to your own personal or professional needs. Business Spanish and small group classes are also available. Get confident in Spanish with Pilar.

M. 610 057 266

Kingsbrook -

Versión Original -

Spanish for foreigners


The experienced teachers at Versión Original are thrilled to share their enthusiasm for the Spanish language and culture. This small city centre school, with classes of no more than 10 students, is devoted to languages, especially Spanish. There’s a great atmosphere here and a 5% discount for Metropolitan readers.

Gran Via 636, 1o 1a A Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 412 4576

Languages4Life -



Kingsbrook have been helping people learn Spanish in a simple, pleasant and fun way since 1985. The school is located in the heart of Barcelona and has a team of experienced and dedicated staff. In order to create an optimal learning environment, the school ensures that classes have only between 7-10 students.

Languages4Life is a small school in a charming building in the heart of Eixample. Our teaching method is visual and intuitive thanks to our interactive classrooms which have tactile whiteboards and internet. We have inspirational native teachers who have experience in language instruction. Access to internet on Macs or via WiFi.

Trav. de Gràcia 60 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) T. 93 209 3763

València 275 3o Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 487 5116 Skype languages4life

BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN L.I.P. Languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.

T. 93 318 6591

Análoga Traducciones Bindung - LANGUAGE SCHOOL Learn Spanish with them in Barcelona, it’s easy! There are new courses starting every month and you can choose between 10, 20 or 30 hours a week in the morning or afternoon. The school promises small groups, and conversational or business classes are also available. They have over 50 years experience and guarantee the best teaching quality to achieve successful results. Those at Bindung consider themselves to be a leading reference for any cultural, entrepreneurial or formative action between cultures. One of their main purposes is to create a meeting space to encourage Spanish learning and facilitate communication between cultures. Their courses aim to train students to achieve a good command of Spanish by focusing on reading, listening, writing and speaking. Ausiàs March 26 Metro: Urquinaona (L1) T. 93 311 5824

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TRANSLATION AND INTERPRETING Análoga offers you a wide range of quality services: · Translations: Specialised native translators. · Legally-certified translations: Official translators appointed by the Spanish Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Cooperation. · Interpreting: Qualified professional interpreters. Rental and installation of equipment for simultaneous interpreting. Paseo de Gracia 122, 3º 1ª Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) T. 93 412 4618

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ZumoSEO -



George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

Increase the visibility of your website, brand and online presence with a powerful digital marketing campaign. Engage with and grow your customer base online, to help increase your business revenue. They do all the work for you: Develop and manage your digital marketing strategy; SEO; video production and marketing; Pay-PerClick campaigns (PPC); email marketing; content marketing; social media and professional web design.

M. 606 308 932

M. 679 952 795

François Roudière (Dip. Mus,

Mrs.Q design studio -

François has 18 years’ experience teaching music and languages in the uK to both adults and children. He will adapt to every individual requirement and tailor his lessons to the needs and pace of each student. Learn to play the piano for fun, to entertain your friends or study for the ABRSM or other exams. He teaches beginners to intermediate level. If you wish, you can also practise your French, English or Spanish while you learn the piano.

Need a logo, brochure or poster? Mrs.Q design studio can design it for you. They work in partnership with their clients to ensure that their visions can be expanded upon to create a unique solution. Mrs.Q design studio has a fresh and creative outlook on every project. Whether you want branding, website design, tailor made wedding invitations or advertising—let them come up with a visionary original design.



M. 603 506 861

M. 699 260 938

Libby Barnes -


Ever dreamed of playing the piano? Now you can, with enthusiastic teacher Libby Barnes. Libby has over 15 years’ experience and can teach a variety of styles, including classical, jazz, blues and rock. Everybody from complete beginners to the advanced can improve with every session. It is never too late to learn, and Libby’s classes are available to all ages, at all levels.

M. 679 796 281

Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE Easi-Sat are specialists in satellite TV, HD and audio-visual installations and are unmatched for quality and reliability. The professional team provides satellite television from across Europe and a personal, efficient and friendly service. Contact them now for a free quote and special christmas offers.


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T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832

BritSat - TELEVISION SERVICE BritSat offer great television packages so you’ll never have to miss your favourite TV programmes again. Craving a bit of classic comedy, your favourite soap or just fed up of feeling out of the loop of the best TV at home? BritSat will install the full package you choose for a great price. Take your pick from some of the best television in Europe as they install British, Dutch, German, Italian and French satellite TV. The team will create tailor-made installations to suit your requirements, always aiming to find the most discreet location for the dish and cables. BritSat provides excellent customer care and can also incorporate sound systems and multi-screen viewing.

M. 649 605 917

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Tired of being out the loop on the best documentaries or are you a secret soap fan? Or, maybe you’re just missing your favourite television programmes from home. There’s no need to miss out anymore—now you can see all of your favourite channels here in Barcelona! Europa Digital are licensed and fully insured to install all satellite systems, including a whole range of channels from BBC HD, Freesat, itv hd, Sky, Sky 3d, Sky Sports and many more. They can also supply all European systems and viewing cards. They were the first company to start operating in Catalunya and, as well as private installations, they have worked for hotel groups and put multi-systems in apartment blocks.The experienced and professional team give friendly advice to ensure that you receive the best package to suit your needs. They are the only company of their kind with a registered office and a 24-hour helpline. Visit their showroom before you buy or call them now for a free quotation. They are fully licensed and insured.

Want to watch UK television? Smartsat was set up in 2002 to offer people living in Spain the choice of watching their favourite UK TV channels including the BBC, ITV, Channel 4, Five and the entire FreeSat platform. They have since gone from strength to strength and have installed systems for hundreds of satisfied customers. They’ll build a package perfect for you, whether it’s an individual satellite installation for your home, or multiple installations for offices. Based in Barcelona, the team can go to homes and businesses across Catalunya. Choose from a variety of packages including Standard, Plus (integrated hard drive) and Plus HD (High Definition). A full after-sales service is available and all of the equipment provided is guaranteed. Get in contact with Smartsat today, for all of your satellite needs.

Floridablanca 78 Metro: Sant Antoni (L2) T. 93 325 1797 M. 666 556 452 Sant Josep, 32, Sitges T. 93 894 72 99

Spain Accounting Tax AND Accounting services

Brumwell Brokers

Qualified UK accountant with 25 years experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service

They not only care about your well-being, they “insure” it. With over 20 years of experience under their belts they can help you will all your insurance needs. Working with most insurance companies they guarantee you the best quote and best cover for what you need. They can even insure your bicycle!! Bromwell Brokers’ service team can also help you with tax, accounting, legal and labour laws. (Set ups, Autonomos).

Call David Cook 678 702 369

Grupo Catalana Occidente -


An expert in the insurance field, Dagmar Schittenhelm provides his services to many satisfied customers in German or English. Contact Dagmar if you’re looking for free, professional insurance advice with no obligation. Dagmar is a member of the prestigious Grupo Catalana Occidente.

T. 93 630 2190 / 93 630 1637 Afternoon T. 93 371 3868 M. 617 320 323

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M. 610 092 848


Pl. Gal-la Placidia 1-3 08006 T. 90 262 7810 F. 90 262 7811

Hyperien - INSURANCE Hyperien Insurance is an agency that specifically caters to European expatriates living in Spain. We are committed to providing a fast, efficient and friendly customer service and can provide for all your insurance needs including car, house, medical, pet and travel cover. We can produce a competitive quotation quickly over the telephone or via email. Contact us now to see how we compare with your current insurance provider and relax, we’ve got it covered. T. 95 289 5216

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Legal Practice A&E -


Gabinet Jurídic Tessal -



- Foreign trade (Export/Import) - Transport Law - Commercial/Civil law: contracts, lease... - Insurance law and professional liability - Legal defence (Litigation and arbitration) - International merges - Wills - Administrative We speak English.

Founded in 1983, Gabinet Jurídic Tessal is made up of a small team of highly-qualified professionals. They can help with all types of law including property, construction, accident, damages, family and immigration. They are also experts in business law for accounting services, taxes and social security. They can discuss your legal matters in English and French. Ask for Esther Maya.

Passeig de Gràcia 118, ppal, 08008 T. 93 125 8799

Perú 40-44, Escala 2, 2ºA Metro: Glòries (L1) T. 93 486 9451 F. 93 486 9452

Sánchez Molina -

Green Bean Coaching


The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669


Green Bean coaches entrepreneurs and business owners proven business techniques that have helped thousands of businesses boost their sales, increase profits, and hit their business goals. We will guide you to implement the strategies you need to move to the next business level. Call us for a noobligation chat to learn more. Or visit our website to receive our Free Emini Series – Your Road Map To Business Success. T. 93 268 9544 M. 693 940 701

deVere Group

FINANCIAL ADVICE The deVere Group is the world’s largest independent financial consultancy with a truly global presence. We provide expert, impartial financial advice in international savings, bonds, life insurance, pensions, as well as structured products, to expatriate clients and international investors around the globe. Our commitment is to help our clients create value and wealth by suggesting the right financial products that best suit their needs. Our advice is free and with no obligation. 56 Paseo de Gracia, planta 7 T. 93 487 5503

The Spectrum IFA Group - FINANCIAL ADVICE The Spectrum IFA Group creates and provides financial planning solutions for expatriates and foreign residents. Our experienced and qualified team in Barcelona can help you with all aspects of finance including: • Pensions/ Retirement Planning • Savings & Investments • Life Cover • Health Insurance • Currency Exchange • Mortgages • Tax Planning • Asset Management We are regulated financial planners with offices in seven European countries, dedicated to providing the best advice and solution for each individual client. Please email or call us to arrange an initial, no obligation introductory meeting. T. 93 665 8596 Paseo de Gràcia 63, Principal 2A

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Job directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: See also our online directory at

For the latest jobs for English speakers in Barcelona, follow us on Twitter @WorkInBarcelona

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ACS is hiring F&A Transition Project Analysts & Project Managers We are seeking Transition Project Analysts and Project Managers for very exciting roles in ACS, a Xerox Company, Barcelona. If you have a Bachelors degree in Finance or related studies with 3+ years of experience in Finance & Accountancy role, and want to work on the delivery of international projects, contact us today! Fluency in English and another European language is essential. 3-5 years experience working on large scale projects including F&A transitions, Management Consulting or BPO projects is required for the Project Management role. Junior Accountants Do you have a degree in Administration/Economics and want to develop your career in Finance & Accounting? We are seeking several Junior Accountants with a good command of English and other European languages. French/Italian/German/Dutch speakers are highly sought after! Customer Care Agents Do you have a strong grasp of European languages and want to work in an international environment? We are seeking several Customer Care Agents who will be responsible for dealing with customers around the world and investigating issues and communicating the appropriate options for resolution. Good command of English and other European languages required. French/Italian/German/Dutch speakers are highly sought after! HR Administrators Do you have experience in customer service and good communication skills as well an interest in Human Resources? At ACS, a Xerox Company, as an HR Administrator, you will work for one of our major clients’ providing advice on HR legislation regarding payroll, leave, pensions and other HR areas. A University degree in HR or related professional experience is required, fluency in English and ideally another European language. Interested candidates can apply online at or send their details via email to

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José Camacaro

The rise of Romero Restaurant A story to be told Where did the original idea come from? The idea to open Romero came from a shared enthusiasm and love for food and wine by two people who also love and enjoy Barcelona. We wanted a place where friends and acquaintances can enjoy simple, natural and fresh Mediterranean-style dishes accompanied by good wine, at a reasonable price. The name came from a trip to Formentera. After visiting one of the more natural creeks of the island, I was very surprised to see rosemary bushes everywhere: close to the sea and scattered by the waves. After smelling the sweet aroma of rosemary dancing in the tang of the Mediterranean, I knew the place should be named Romero. On my return, I mentioned this to my partner and he also liked the name. With that name in mind we began searching for somewhere local to open Romero. What do you wish you’d know when you started? The idea to open a restaurant on your own always goes through the mind of any chef. But in my opinion, you need previous cooking experience and as a head chef. It’s not only about opening a restaurant and preparing plates, you must include the ingredients that the clients like and satisfy demand at a reasonable price, yet at the same time maintain your own style of cooking. In this sense, once I had finished cooking school, I worked as a chef in the restaurants Negro and Acontraluz of the Tragaluz group and in the Torre d’Altamar. I also worked in Re-Pla as second chef and for almost five years as head chef in the Pla Restaurant. It was there that I realised that I was ready to open my own restaurant. What was your favourite meal as a child? I love all the plates that were prepared for me as a child! My mother is an

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excellent chef and my love for cooking stems from her. I am the youngest in a big family which revolves around food and cooking. So, from a young age I have always been by the side of my mother, sisters and cousins helping to prepare food. Have you always wanted to be a chef? I never thought of being a chef—in fact, I am a lawyer; a short-lived career that I didn’t like very much. When I finished a Masters in Tax Law at the University of Barcelona, I decided take a year out My mother is antoexcellent to take some time to reflect. I felt that chef myI love for cookI didn’tand like what did and decided I wanted to study something more to ing stems from her. I am my taste. I soon found out about a cooking the youngest inasaabig famschool and enrolled student. It was at this point that I hung up the suit ily which revolves aroundand tie and changed into the jacket and food apron.and Now I cooking. love my work So, very from much; it makes me happy to see people come a young age I have always and enjoy my cooking.

in our sauces, but if we do, we always inform the clients when we give them the menu. The menu changes every 15 days in accordance with the seasons.

My mother is an excellent chef and my love for cooking stems from her. I am the youngest in a big family which revolves around food and cooking. So, from a young age I have always been by the side of my mother, sisters and cousins helping to prepare food.

been by the side of my mothWhat’s the meal you enjoy making the er, sisters and cousins helpmost? I loveto to prepare cook and enjoy rice. ing food. What is your favourite dessert? I don’t like many sweet things, but I’m crazy for chocolate. There will always be chocolate in the dessert menu! What’s your favourite type of food? Mediterranean food, I think that it is the most balanced and healthy. But I also like Oriental and Japanese cooking. What kind of food do you make in Romero? Mainly Mediterranean market cuisine. We only use fresh vegetables, fish and meat. The vegetables are brought to the Boquería from a co-operative in Sant Boi de Llobregat. The fish is bought directly from an auction in Vilanova i la Geltrú, amongst others. The mushrooms are sourced from Olesa, a municipality near Montserrat. In general, we don’t use anything with gluten, lactose or cream

11/23/11 10:50:03 AM


On the slippery slope


hink of Barcelona, and what do you think of ? Sunshine? Gaudí? Gay groups of tourists skipping merrily down the Ramblas? The same groups of tourists staggering drunkenly back up the Ramblas several hours later, looking decidedly less gay? What you probably don’t think of are sleigh bells and icicles and crisp mountain air and snow. Why would you? It’s a Mediterranean city, not an Alpine village. Except if the mayor gets his way, it will be both. Last year, the prospect of hosting the 2022 Winter Olympics was raised by the now former mayor, and rather than being dismissed by a barrage of sniggers and ridicule, city hall has taken the puck and skated with it. At the municipal elections in May it became, while not quite a key issue, at least a touchstone, with candidate after candidate insisting they would support this latest folie de grandeur. To do otherwise would be un-Catalan and anti Barcelona, and likely to anger the public, apparently. Voters want Olympics! At least that must be the political belief. And as they’re not going to get the summer games again for another century or so—at least not without employing the Qatari gambit (see below)— the only alternative is to bid for the Winter Games. Yes, the ones traditionally held at high altitude, among snow-bound moun-


tains as a celebration of winter sports. The bid conveniently overlooks the awkward fact that not only is Barcelona at sea level, it doesn’t even have a proper winter. Sure, it has a six-week smudge of damp purporting to be winter, and a three-yearly spattering of slush that aspires to be snow. But they’re nothing more than a transition, as autumn prepares to rebrand itself as spring. It’s certainly nothing you could sledge down. Plans to host the Winter Olympics here aren’t skating on thin ice; they’re skating on no ice. This hasn’t put off the snow men. The indoor sports—skating, ice hockey, curling— could take place anywhere you can build an ice rink, they say. Palau Sant Jordi is an obvious choice, though the Palau Nacional on Montjuïc would be fabulous and Passeig de Gràcia not impossible. The rest would take place in the Pyrenees, at La Molina. These people have clearly never skied, never watched Ski Sunday, and never asked themselves where downhill skiing got its name. Sure, you can ski in the Pyrenees. You can drive around Gràcia, but you wouldn’t want to hold a Grand Prix there. Even Andorra wouldn’t cut it, let alone a quaint but low-lying village like La Molina. La Molina is charming enough. It’s conveniently located on a train line, and for a couple of months each winter offers a pleas-

ant, if unchallenging, day in the mountains for the intermediate skier. What it doesn’t offer are vertiginous pistes, Alpine atmosphere or even a guarantee of snow. Not that anywhere can guarantee snow these days. Last year’s Vancouver Winter Olympics were afflicted by unseasonably warm air, and had to be held against a backdrop of bare, despondent mountains on snow brought in by truck. But that was an exceptional year. La Molina is like that every year—with another 10 years of climate change still to come. Awarding the Winter Games to Barcelona would be like awarding a major football championship to a blisteringly hot, non-football-playing, alcohol-free desert nation. Qatar, for example. Not that it really matters. Lacking Qatar’s subtle but effective strategy for securing the football world cup—a choice tainted by rumours of corruption and bribery—Barcelona can’t possibly hope to win against bids from more traditional (ie. snow-bound) locations. Presumably the politicians know this. They don’t really want to win. Instead they are playing a game of brag. Though perhaps the several million Euros an Olympic bid usually costs could be spent on something more useful than plans for a curling rink in Plaça Catalunya and huskies racing around Montjuïc. --Roger de Flower

Aries Take things easy and have some fun. You may find that your attitude rubs someone the wrong way, as they expect you to be more productive. Be careful not to overspend.

Taurus You’re feeling good and

Gemini It’s a busy period full of action but you may encounter resistance at work. Take care when expressing yourself to avoid confrontations. Things calm down at the month’s end.

Cancer Love and relationships are at the fore. There’s a chance of meeting someone new, but there could be tension if you’re not being appreciated. Time to push on with business goals.

Leo Your thoughts are clear this month, making it time to get organised. It is also a great time to negotiate some good deals at work and in your private life. You may be needed as a mediator.

Virgo You have a fun and

Libra Work is challenging as you struggle to focus and you would rather have fun. You’ll attempt to avoid all dramas but be careful that others don’t interpret your reluctance as selfishness.

Scorpio Opportunities for love and money arise. Your positive energy helps you achieve your goals and attract others. Anything needing cooperation has a good chance of success.

Sagittarius December brings

Capricorn You feel attractive,

Aquarius A creative time for you so invest time in pursuits that satisfy your creativity. You are an excellent communicator. Your skills as negotiator may be needed at work or with friends.

Pisces Your social skills are excellent and people will be attracted to your warm, outgoing nature. Challenges come later when there is opposition to something you are working on.

you clarity. You’ll see things in a new light and be able to express yourself clearly. Be careful not to be too forceful or you could alienate someone close to you.

self-confident. Enjoy this relaxed time when things run smoothly. Your friendliness and caring will be repaid in kindness and affection by those around you.

relaxed month ahead. The inner harmony that you feel will be appreciated by those around you. Channel your energy into creative or physical pursuits.

radiating love and confidence. Have fun and revise unhealthy habits that have been getting you down. You’re on a winning streak so take on any challenges.

scoop By Ben Rowdon

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on our web

*READER DISCOUNT From this month, we’re starting a new series of special offers from our advertisers that are exclusively aimed at you, the Metropolitan reader. There will be regular discounts on services and products, which you can find by looking for the above symbol on the relevant ads in the magazine. In addition, each week there will be a one-off extra special offer, which we’ll feature on our website and on Twitter and Facebook. Get more info at: readerdiscounts

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NEW: Monthly guest blogger Although we’re sad to see the end of the Columns page in the magazine*, we’re happy to welcome a brand-new feature on our website, with guest bloggers joining us for a month at a time to share their thoughts and experiences with us. First up is the hyper-busy magazine publisher and writer Tim Parfitt, who is blogging now and up to Christmas. Do you want to be one of our next guest bloggers? Send an email explaining, in no more than 50 words, why we should choose you to share your musings on our web: *Catch the last ‘Wild in Barcelona’ entry online: wildbarcelona

Interview Read Max Bentley’s interview with British entrepreneur Rory Ryder about the inspiration behind his series of photos featuring female Barcelona street cleaners. roryryder

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An inside look Illustrator Fernando Figowy

I was born in Buenos Aires in 1969. I’ve lived in Barcelona for 10 years; I came just to discover a place that had always appealed to me, and I’ve lived here ever since. I graduated in Visual Communication 20 years ago and since then I’ve worked as a freelance illustrator and had my work published in various countries, including Argentina, Brazil, Spain, France, Portugal and Germany. I’ve also written children’s books and I teach art to children. My work features people and their relationships, and they are my take on the images, photos, music and comics that have influenced me from my childhood to now. Barcelona is the city I chose to live in. I never miss the chance to visit the Boqueria market on a Saturday. I always avoid La Rambla.

A view: Parc Güell A building: Palau de la Música An inspiration: Streets of the Born A place to go with friends: Bar Mudanzas (Vidrieria 15, Born) On my to-do list: Restaurant El Mirador de la Venta (Plaça Doctor Andreu, Tibidabo). About the cover: My approach to each illustration I do is to transform it into something personal. The idea for the cover was a modern nativity scene, how would it be in modern times? I hope that the image leaves space for interpretation and imagination on the part of the observers regarding a religious theme. A sacred moment for me? An evening at home with my partner, son and friends.

Interested in featuring your photographs or illustrations in our magazine? Email us at

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Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 179  

Barcelona Metropolitan is produced by Creative Media Group S.L. Creative Media Group was established to help English-speaking foreigners liv...

Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 179  

Barcelona Metropolitan is produced by Creative Media Group S.L. Creative Media Group was established to help English-speaking foreigners liv...