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December 2013 Nยบ 203 Free

Urban vineyard Creating moments of positivity Seeing the city through the eyes of the homeless Recycled art Christmas shopping Metro running

PLUS

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Fashion Festivals Art Film

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DECEMBER Contents Features 18 Urban winery 24 Random acts of kindness 30 A homeless view of the city

Regulars

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06 On the Cover 07 Around Town 08 Fact-checker: December holidays 11 Recipe: Gingerbread biscuits 12 Making Plans 17 Culture: Drap-Art 23 Design: Fashion designer Josep Abril 29 Interview: Adham Fisher 32 Escape the City 34 Gastronomy 50 Back Page

Directories 37 Food & Drink 40 Business

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46 Shopping 47 Jobs

From the Senior Editor: Back in January 2006, I joined Metropolitan as an editorial intern. I’m not ashamed to say I was probably the oldest intern the magazine has had to date (I was already into my 30s), but I was at a time in my life when I could start at the bottom, as it were, to be able to move into an industry that had always appealed to me. Almost nine years later, the time has come for a change and this is the last issue that I will be editing. There is so much that I could write here about my time at the magazine but there just isn’t the space (even though I’ve encroached on the page even more than usual); instead, I will keep it simple and say a big thank you to the many, many people who have helped me along the way. And so to this issue. I’m happy that December is the last month I will work on—it is one of my favourites of the year, even if it does mean getting into the Christmas spirit particularly early, even for a Brit. All the features this month focus on a small enterprise or organisation doing their bit to make Barcelona a special place to live, while the festive season features in various sections, including ideas for buying

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your gifts from local companies, a vox pop on Catalan Christmas traditions and our new Back Page feature, ‘Final Words’. Merry Christmas everyone, and adéu, Hannah Pennell

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Founder Esther Jones Managing Director Andrea Moreno Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Art Director Aisling Callinan Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell, Adriana Soto and Daniel Whitehead Editorial Assistants Eleanor Bodman and Heather Buchanan Design Assistant Marina Dimova Sales Assistant Sena Çakiroĝlu Contributors Lynn Baiori, Anjalina Chugani, Jay Collins, Miquel Hudin, Prithika Nair Tully, Tori Sparks, Tara Stevens, Nicola Thornton and Andreas Vou Cover image Yulia Syresenkova Photographer Aimee McLachlan Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial Office: Ciutat 7 2º 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com. General enquiries: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Follow BCNMetropolitan on

Find your nearest distribution point on www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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06 THIS MONTH

ON THE COVER Photographer Yulia Syresenkova www.flickr.com/photos/yuliasyresenkova

When randomly choosing a Spanish language course as the complementary subject at my university back in my home city of Moscow, I could never have imagined that in a few years I would be living in Barcelona. So here I am now, finishing my last year of an advertising degree in one of the most beautiful cities in the world (in my humble opinion). Apart from studying, working occasionally and enjoying life like any other student, I also can’t imagine my life without photography, books and travelling. Being self-taught (I started to take pictures when I was 15), I always considered photography as just a hobby for years, and it was only a short time ago that I started to think about putting together a portfolio and a personal website, which I’m currently working on. My main subject has always been travel photography, especially people I see and get to know, but lately I’ve been thinking about trying myself in editorial photography as well—let’s see how it goes!

Barcelona is: like a puzzle with thousands of pieces. There are so many little details that make this place so special. You can probably say that about any other city in the world, but I think that only Barcelona has this unique combination of beauty, food, sun, sea, mountains, cultures, arts and many other things that make the whole picture so complete. I never miss: a chance to walk around the narrow streets of El Born. It’s quite close to my place and I love the area! Sometimes I even go to study in some of those local bars and cafés hidden around Carrer de la Princesa. I always avoid: the underground tunnel in Passeig de Gràcia metro station. It’s endless—ha ha. Joking apart, I actually try to avoid taking the metro when I have enough time to simply walk. A view: Bunker del Carmel has a lovely view of the whole city. The only disadvantage is that I’m not the only one who thinks so; it is becoming more and more popular. A building: Barcelona is a unique city in terms of architecture, but the building that especially impressed me recently was Clínica Creu Blanca. I went there for a check-up and was amazed when I saw this castle from a fairy tale! This could have happened only in Barcelona. An inspiration: To have a long stroll up to the Sarrià-Sant Gervasi area; I always discover something interesting there—like a new café, cosy street, beautiful building and so on. A place to go with friends: Federal Café, Picnic or Brunch&Cake for a Sunday brunch. Nice breakfast is the key for a good start to the day! On my to-do list: Fabra Observatory. They have a special calendar with days when you can actually view the Moon or some planet through a telescope. About the cover: This photo was taken near Mercat de la Concepció, one of the biggest flower markets of Barcelona. They’ve just started to sell poinsettia, the typical Christmas plant, so the street was full of red and pink flowers, beautifully matched by the Christmas lights.

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THIS MONTH 07

AROUND TOWN

WIN DOUBLE PASS TO SEE IMAGINE DRAGONS IN CONCERT! Palau Sant Jordi

Rocking up to Barcelona’s biggest live music venue this month are Las Vegas band Imagine Dragons. One of the hottest foursomes in the industry at the moment, their Barcelona concert had to be relocated after the too-small Razzmatazz sold out. And we are offering you the chance to see them on December 7th—but be quick, the closing date is Thursday 5th at midday. See our Facebook page for details and good luck!

ART ON TOUR Circuit d’Art Contemporani

If you have visitors coming to town this month and want to show them a different side of Barcelona from the usual tourist stop-offs, try the new Contemporary Art Circuit. This route takes in some 36 art galleries and centres, big and small—each participating space has a speciallydesigned post outside it as a way to easily follow the route around the city. The posts also have an interactive feature with a QR code that provides details of what’s on at the different venues. www.circuitartcontemporani.cat Correction: In the article ‘Getting together’ (p.24) in last month’s magazine, there were two errors in the paragraph about the Barcelona English Choir. The name of the organiser should have read Ed Aldcroft and the number of singers at each session is 30 to 40. We apologise for the mistakes.

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08 THIS MONTH

(ALMOST) ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT: TWO DECEMBER PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

LA INMACULADA CONCEPCIÓN— DECEMBER 8TH

The Immaculate Conception is one of the four dogmas of Roman Catholic Mariology, which is the study of the person of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Many people mistakenly believe that the Immaculate Conception refers to the conception of Jesus Christ; however, this feast-day actually celebrates the conception of Jesus’s mother, Mary (in Spain, it is also known as La Purísima, ie. the very pure one). The teachings of the Roman Catholic Church argue that, to be the mother of God, Mary herself had to be born free from original sin and thus had to be protected from original sin at conception. However the Immaculate Conception is not featured in The Bible, which gives no mention of Mary being anything other than an ordinary woman. The doctrine of the Immaculate Conception originated with the question of how Jesus could be sinless if he was conceived inside the womb of a sinful human female. It was officially laid down in December 8th, 1854 by Pope Pius IX and today many countries where Roman Catholicism is the dominant religion celebrate that day with a public holiday.

SPANISH CONSTITUTION DAY— DECEMBER 6TH After the death of Franco on November 20th, 1975, Spain was in dire need of a new political system, as well as a new constitution. A newly elected assembly (Constituent Cortes) began the drawing up of the Constitution in 1977 with seven selected members of the parliament chosen to create a draft document—they became known as the ‘fathers of the Constitution’. The Constitution was approved on October 31st, 1978 by the Congreso de los Diputados and by the Spanish people on December 6th in a referendum. Eighty-eight percent of those who voted agreed to the new Constitution. It was promulgated on December 27th by King Juan Carlos I, and became law the following day. The 1978 Spanish Constitution created the current political landscape in the country with its 17 self-governing regions, although autonomy in Catalunya had been restored the previous year with the return from exile of the president of the Generalitat. In recent times, the Constitution has created controversy in Catalunya for various reasons. Perhaps the most important was the June 2010 decision of the Constitutional Court to strike down various parts of the region’s new Statute of Autonomy (2006), following an appeal brought against it by the PP. This was despite its approval by both Catalan and Spanish parliaments, and the Catalan people in a referendum.

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ALL CHANGE? In May 2011, German Chancellor Angela Merkel criticised the number of public holidays that Spaniards get each year, with six more here than in Germany. Although research shows that in Spain, people are at work for longer hours and earn less than the Germans, her attack clearly hit home in certain circles. When Mariano Rajoy was elected Spanish prime minister a few months later, one of his early pledges was to overhaul the country’s public holiday calendar to reduce the number of days off Spaniards enjoy. It was during his inaugural address in December 2011 that he made mention of his plans to bring to an end the tradition of ‘puentes’ (taking an additional day’s leave when a public holiday falls on a Tuesday or Thursday to get a long weekend) and move certain holidays to the nearest Monday. To date, the change has not taken place—the government has said that it made no changes for 2013 due to the scarce number of puentes occurring this year and a lack of time to instigate the new system. For 2014, the holidays of August 15th, November 1st and December 6th are earmarked to be moved to the nearest Monday. To do this, the Estatuto de los Trabajadores y el Real Decreto 2001/1983 will need to be altered before the end of the year. Trade unions and employers’ associations have already agreed to the change. However, as two of these holidays relate to religious days, the government is also having to negotiate the new holiday calendar with the Church.

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THIS MONTH 09

METROPOLITan PEOPLe Q. What is YOUR FAVOURITE CATALAN CHRISTMAS TRADITION?

Name: Deniz Urulbay Occupation: Sales Executive From: Turkey Answer: The Caga tió because it’s funny and not Christmassy.

Name: Gerard Camell Occupation: Student From: Spain Answer: Neules because they are good, traditional food and my grandmother makes them.

Name: Rosa Kindle Occupation: German and English teacher From: Germany Answer: The Christmas lights that are put up every year. They make the small streets look romantic when they are lit.

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10 THIS MONTH

BUY LOCAL

Stay close to home when choosing your Christmas gifts this year with this selection of products from Barcelona and Catalan companies.

KELLY BAG—VAHO:

CUPCAKE & CO— TAURUS: www.taurus-home.com For the baker/cakelover in your circle, this ingenious machine from Catalan domestic goods company Taurus will let you cook seven cupcakes (or magdalenes as they call them in these parts) in just eight minutes. Ideal for that post-Christmas diet. €39.99

WE CAN’T WAIT FOR BETTER TIMES— HOMESESSION: www.homesession.org Celebrating their six years of hosting art projects in people’s Barcelona homes, Homesession has brought out this gorgeous coffee-table photo book. As well as images from many of its events, it includes essays on the local art scene in English and Castilian. €19.50

www.vaho.ws You’ve doubtless seen some of the messenger bags this company creates using the disused material adverts that the Ajuntament hangs from the city’s lamp-posts. But did you know that the Barcelona-based accessories-maker also do a range of more ladylike styles inspired by French favourites, such as the Kelly and the Baguette. €38

2014 calendar— omnium cultural: www.omnium.cat If you’re looking for an alternative to the ubiquitous La Caixa calendar to hang in your kitchen, why not get this one created by Catalan cultural association, Omnium. Tying in with the 300th anniversary of the events of September 1714, it highlights some of the traditional trade associations who helped defend Barcelona from the Bourbon troops. €4.50

SOMETHING DIFFERENT—SMILES FOR CHILDREN IN HOSPITAL: www.theodora.org Not a local organisation this, but certainly a great cause. Fundación Theodora funds visits by clowns to children in hospital (including Barcelona’s Vall d’Hebron), as a way to make their stay a little bit more enjoyable. This year for Christmas, it is selling doctor’s sets for parents so they can treat their kids’ pupas while wearing a red nose (€15), a mini box of Lindt chocolates (€3) and a gift box that gives the recipient the chance to nominate a Doctor Sonrisa to visit a child in hospital (€12, pictured).

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GINGERBREAD BISCUITS by Anjalina Chugani Ingredients 3 cups all purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt ¾ teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons ground ginger 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg ½ cup unsalted butter, room temperature ½ cup (100g) granulated white sugar 1 large egg ⅔ cup (160ml) maple syrup or honey

Icing ½ cup unsalted butter, room temperature 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 2 cups icing or powdered sugar, sifted 1½ tablespoons milk or light cream (you can add more milk to achieve a better piping consistency)

In a large bowl, sift together the flour, salt, baking soda and spices. In the bowl of your electric mixer, use the paddle attachment (or with a hand mixer) to beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg and maple syrup or honey and beat until well combined. Gradually add the flour mixture, beating until incorporated. Divide the dough in half—wrap each half in clingfilm and refrigerate until firm (at least two hours or even overnight). Preheat oven to 180ºC. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to a thickness of about ¼ inch. Cut out the biscuits using different shape cutters. Place about an inch apart. If you are hanging the biscuits or using as gift tags, make a hole at the top of them with a straw. (If biscuits are a little soft, place them on the baking sheet in the fridge for about 10 minutes to stop them losing their shape.) Bake for 8 to 12 minutes in centre of oven; they are done when firm and the edges are just beginning to brown. Cool on the baking sheet for a minute, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. To make icing, beat the butter in an electric mixer (or with a hand mixer) until smooth and well blended. Add the vanilla extract. With the mixer on low speed, gradually beat in the sugar. Add the milk and beat on high speed until icing is light and fluffy (about 3-4 minutes). Add a little more milk if needed and food colour if desired. Place icing in a pastry bag and decorate the biscuits. Anjalina Chugani was born in London but moved to Bangalore in India when she was 15; since 2000, she has been living in Barcelona where she works as an English teacher. A selftaught cook, she held Social Suppers in the meeatings23 space, and has a blog for recipes and food photography, www.rainbowspoon.com. rainbowspoonfood@gmail.com

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12 culture

MAKING PLANS

A few suggestions about things to do tonight, this weekend, later on...

Bombollavà

Teatre Lliure Montjuïc. December 4th to January 4th, 2014. “Humankind is nothing else but a constellation of ephemeral stars.” Joan Brossa, Catalan poet What is it about bubbles? There is something hypnotic about those quivering spheres made from soapy water; we watch, wondering when they are going to burst. It seems fitting with the nature of the festive season—with all its ephemera—that one of the big shows running in the coming weeks in Barcelona is this one, in which blowing bubbles is the main attraction. However, these are no ordinary bubbles. Pep Bou is an experienced theatre performer, mime artist and director who first stepped on stage in the Seventies. It was in the early Eighties that he started his career working with bubbles and pushing the possibilities of what can be done with them. Since then, he has performed in theatres and at festivals around the world, and won a number of significant prizes for his unusual form of entertainment. Here Bou seeks to combine that entertainment with experimentation, as he brings in helium, sulphur hexafluoride (which has a similar effect to helium when you breathe it in, except that it makes your voice go low rather than high) and carbon dioxide to the more traditional elements of his soap bubble shows. Please note, this show is not aimed at children.

Iceberg

Fundació Francisco Godia. Until May 18th, 2014. www.fundaciofgodia.com Just opened at the Fundación Francisco Godia, this exhibition takes its name from one of nature’s more deceptive features, reflecting its theme of comparing reality with appearances. The show includes a selection of video and photography work from the collection of Cal Cego, showcasing pieces that present the idea that the ‘reality’ we see around us is just the tip of what actually exists; created by artists from around the world, including Jeff Wall, Rodney Graham and Stan Douglas, they invite us to reflect on the selective nature of the images we’re surrounded by.

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culture 13

TEDxBARCELONA WOMEN Mostra de Cinema Italià

La Pedrera and Cinemes Verdi. December 12th to 19th. Free entry Celebrating the best of Italian film from 2013, the Mostra de Cinema Italià returns to Barcelona (MCIB) for its second edition. The festival will see screenings of eight films and eight short films selected by critics Titta Fiorce and Maurizio Di Rienzo. Amongst those being shown are Anni Felici, Indebito and L’Arbitro (pictured); all the films will be presented by their respective directors and various of the participating actors will also attend. The programme also includes a live concert from Vinicio Capossela, performing songs from his latest album Rebetiko Gymnastas, following the showing of Indebito at La Pedrera, which will inaugurate the festival. As part of the mostra, the MCIB will be awarding two prizes; the first of which is the CSCI (Centro di Studi Sul Cinema Italiano) honour award, to be received by actress Valeria Gulino for her career success. The second is the CSCI award for best short film—the winner will be chosen from the eight participants and decided by a jury made up of directors Carmen Isasa, Antonio Piazza and Fabio Grassadonia.

Espai Francesca Bonnemaison, Sant Pere Més Baix 7. December 5th, 4pm. www. TEDxBarcelonaWomen.com As part of its campaign against gender inequality, TEDx in Barcelona hosts a talk emphasising that the issue is not only important to women, but needs men to address it as well. With high global rates of violence against women and a lack of women in leadership positions, this event puts the spotlight on some people who have made a real difference in this area, even though there is still much to achieve. The talks feature 15 international business and organisational professionals who have sparked change in gender equality around the world. Guests include founding member of Singularity University, Susan Fonseca, and Araceli Segarra, the first Spanish woman to climb Mount Everest. The audience will also hear from men such as Promundo founder Gary Barker, who campaigns to involve men and boys in reaching gender equality.

Cirque du Soleil—Dralion

Palau Sant Jordi. December 18th to 29th. From €29. www.cirquedusoleil.com Each show that Cirque du Soleil (now the largest theatrical producer in the world) creates is a combination of circus styles from around the globe, with a central theme, storyline and unique characters, and Dralion sticks to this script. It is the company’s 12th touring production and the first show since 1985 not to be directed by Franco Dragone, and has already received rave reviews from critics. The production combines 3,000-year-old traditional Chinese acrobatic arts with the multi-disciplinary approach of the Cirque du Soleil company; it has a total of 50 performers with six principal characters. The inspiration for Dralion stems from the ancient Eastern philosophy of achieving harmony between man and nature while the title brings together the East (the dragon) and the West (the lion). The production features music from a new Cirque collaborator, French-Canadian composer Violaine Corradi, who has worked to fuse Eastern and Western sounds. Furthermore, there are 1,500 costume pieces used in the show, which are vibrant in colour and inspired by clothing from India, China and African countries. Cirque du Soleil is renowned for creating visually spectacular and inspiring performances and Dralion will surely not disappoint.

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BCN Painting Route NEW Art Gallery

New gallery in the heart of the Gothic quarter showcasing oil paintings on canvas and other works of art. High quality paintings starting from just €40. Carrer de Lledó 17, Lc. Gothic Quarter, Barcelona, 08002 Tel. +34 93 319 9178 Email. bcnpaintingroute@outlook.es

ledó

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Vell reu Cor

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culture 15

Up on stage Some of the concerts happening this month in Barcelona The Wave Pictures—Tuesday 3rd at Sidecar Suede—Thursday 5th at Razzmatazz Deap Vally—Friday 6th at Razzmatazz Imagine Dragons—Saturday 7th at Palau Sant Jordi. Check page 7 for your chance to win a double pass to the show. David Cevoli & The Keychains—Sunday 8th at Harlem Jazz Club Destroyer—Monday 9th at Apolo

Anna Calvi—Tuesday 10th at Apolo Biffy Clyro—Wednesday 11th at Razzmatazz Mount Kimbie—Friday 13th at Apolo Pau Codina—Sunday 15th at La Pedrera Melissa Laveux—Wednesday 18th in the foyer of the Gran Teatre del Liceu Van Morrison (pictured)—Saturday 21st at Gran Teatre del Liceu

Dora the Explorer

Teatre Musical Barcelona. December 20th to 31st. From €20. www.livenation.es If you have children, nephews, nieces or grandchildren aged 13 or under (she was ‘born’ in 2000), the sweet Dora and her sidekick monkey Boots, will be all-too-familiar to you. The bilingual little girl has proved to be overwhelmingly endearing to her under-five target market and if you get tickets to this live-action version of Dora the Explorer for a special Christmas treat, you will doubtlessly earn the recipient’s love and affection for at least two weeks. Although the programme’s creators unfortunately haven’t included an adult-appropriate humour track to appeal to the parents in the audience, à la Pixar, Dora and crew’s constant switching between English and Castilian will at least give you a language work-out.

FIND CONCERTS, FESTIVALS, ART SHOW AND MUCH MORE ON WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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Brick Lane BCN

December 7th. €2. Corretger5. www.facebook.com/blbcn The Barcelona vintage market sees the finale of its three-month Tanqueray —Fever Tree Tonic collaboration this month. Vendors such as Kinky Merengue, Lab Couture, La Petite Parade, Layelfish, Psycho Candy and Violeta Vintage will enable shoppers to unearth some truly unique and wonderful pieces. Entry includes drinks and whilst sipping on gin and tonics, DJ Kudi will be on the decks playing house and a touch of disco so you can enjoy a great atmosphere as you search for your special winter wardrobe.

Hard Rock Cafe Sessions

December 5th, 10pm. Free entrance. www.hardrock.com The act we’re bringing to the Hard Rock Café this month is Melou, a musical project headed up by singer Annie Goodhild and guitarist Maarten Swaan. The two have performed together since meeting in a tequila bar in Guatemala in 2005; Swaan, who hails from The Netherlands, subsequently moved to Goodhild’s hometown of Boston, Massachusetts to continue their collaboration. As well as their joint venture, Swaan also has a thriving solo career, and the concert will see Melou and Swaan perform from their latest albums, Skylark and Voices, which have been combined into a double disc. Expect their songs to include influences as varied as Janis Joplin, Bob Marley and Radiohead. Read our interview with Maarten Swaan online at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/swaan.

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GUIRI BUSINESS Christmas DRINK 11th December

of 6000 + members

Networking *Optional dinner 9.30pm-11pm

*If you would like to join us for dinner RSVP is required via our facebook event page

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CULTURE 17

DRAP-ART

This festival showcases eclectic art created with recycled materials. By Tori Sparks.

‘Nostalgia’, Jana Álvarez

F

or most of us living in Barcelona, ‘recycling’ signifies those blue, yellow, brown and green plastic containers where we dump our bottles, cans and newspapers on the way out the door (when we remember to do so). The people at Barcelona’s Drap-Art see recycling in a very different light. Drap-Art is a non-profit organisation that was started by Tanja Grass in 1995, and is, in her words, “dedicated to the promotion of creative recycling through the organisation of festivals, exhibitions, markets and workshops.” Recycling is a career, a mission, a passion. Tanja grew up in Formentera surrounded by a family of artists, and later studied language and translation in universities in both Barcelona and Cologne, Germany. In the early Nineties, by now back in Barcelona, she became involved in the underground art world and collaborated in events organised by artists such as Accidents Polipoètics and Simona Levi, and curator and art historian Rosa Pera. In 1994, Pera was asked by the organisers of a festival called Braderie de l’Art in Roubaix, France, to make a selection of artists from Barcelona to participate in their event. The concept of the festival was to invite 150 artists to create works out of recycled or reused materials, and then sell their works at the festival with a price tag of between €1 and €300. One of the people Rosa Pera invited was Tanja’s boyfriend Christian Konn, a jeweller who fashioned pins out of electrochips in his free time. Tanja, Christian and a mutual friend spontaneously decided to form an artist’s collective and present at the festival together. Tanja says she was “immediately fascinated by the potential of the event in a city like Barcelona,” because so many of her friends were already incorporating recycled materials into their artwork. She decided to approach Pera and asked if they would be interested in putting on a similar festival in Barcelona. The response was, “Well, why don’t you do it instead?” That festival initially helped Tanja find a sponsor for her event—“which ultimately fell through,” she said ruefully—but she went ahead with the first festival in 1996 regardless.

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‘Bed lamp’, Fabio De Minicis. Photo by Peggy Lagadec.

She recruited all the artists that she knew of who used recyclable materials in their work and got them involved. Tanja also recruited nearly 40 people to help organise the event. “We were working, but the budget was so low that we were practically volunteers, all of us. That was a model that was really not sustainable.” Over the years, they were forced to restructure. Drap-Art now has three full-time employees and a number of volunteers who organise the festival each year, as well as a permanent office and gallery space in the old town. She says that although it has been a struggle to keep the organisation going in the current economic conditions, it is more than worth it because “we’re in constant contact with art and with artists. Also, we are teaching the younger generations to use art and sustainable activities as a tool to transform protest into positive change in the community. You can really see the fruit of your work at the end of the process.” This year, the festival (which is marking its 10th edition) runs from December 13th to January 5th, 2014, and takes place in the CCCB and its surroundings, Plaça Reial and the Hemp Museum. It features 19 artists and designers, including Pistolo Ulises Eliza, Fabio De Minicis and Karol Bergeret. Also participating is German sculptor HA Schult, who became a prominent figure in the art world in the late Nineties, when he created 1,000 full-sized human figures out of recyclable material. Schult is a strong supporter of Drap-Art, and is donating one of his infamous ‘Trash Men’ to help raise funds for the organisation. There will be a designer fair during the last three days of the festival, located in the hall of the CCCB, where the public can view neverbefore-seen original designs, and an art auction on the final day. “I want people to take away from the festival—hopefully—a piece of art that they’ve bought, which in turn supports the artists who have been kind enough to support Drap-Art over the years,” says Tanja. “I also would like people to become more conscious of their economic decisions, and to realise that there is an alternative, and a good one, to excessive consumerism.” www.drapart.net

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18 FEATURE

Clockwise from left: the 16thcentury masia, Can Calopa; bottles of the different wines produced there; the masia is today surrounded by vines

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FEATURE 19

City vines Discover Barcelona’s only urban vineyard. Text and photos by Miquel Hudin.

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ormally the thought of visiting a winery in Catalunya means preparing oneself for a one to two hour trip in the car to somewhere such as Empordà, Priorat or Penedès. Naturally, these are all wonderful trips on their own with a great deal to offer in terms of wine, food and seeing a different, possibly more authentic side of Catalunya than the hustle and bustle of Barcelona. What few people know is that there is a fully functioning winery within the city limits of Barcelona called Can Calopa. This is a 16thcentury masia on Carretera de Vallvidrera, best reached from either Molins del Rei or Sarrià-Sant Gervasi (the district to which the winery belongs). There, the city drifts away and you’re surrounded by the natural park of Serra de Collserola. It’s a calming view of the grand Tibidabo church up on the hill in one direction and the jagged peaks of Montserrat in the other. From these mountains stretch the sprawl of small towns whose inhabitants contribute to the ephemeral daily population of Barcelona. The faroff rumble of the C-16 to the centre of Barcelona and the occasional passing of a Rodalies train are the only steady reminders that just minutes away lies the capital of Catalunya. Don’t feel as if you’ve been missing out on the world’s most hidden urban winery, though, as absolutely none of the wines from Can Calopa are for sale. While you might find them at a speech by the mayor or other major city events, you won’t be finding them anywhere else— the vineyard’s output is exclusively used for council social gatherings. This makes them both one of the most elusive and yet most publicly accessible wines in Barcelona. So, how on earth did such an entity come to be? It all started back in 2000 when the then mayor of Barcelona, Joan Clos of CiU, saw a similar city wine project in Paris. Upon deciding to replicate it, the city of Barcelona planted about four hectares of vineyards that include Sangiovese, Agiorgitiko, Aglianico, Syrah and Grenache grape varieties. This selection of decidedly Southern European grapes came about due to the project being part of a greater pan-Mediterranean venture and thus the grapes from Italy, Greece, France and Catalunya all mingle happily around this old masia.

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20 FEATURE

The vineyards at Can Calopa overlook nearby towns such as Molins del Rei

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That was just the first part of the story because once vines are planted, someone needs to care for them. Initially this was done by the park authority, but it was decided to eventually shift the care of the vines and making of the wines to an independent entity. This is where a partnership with the Olivera Cooperative came in. For those unfamiliar with the organisation, this is a wine and olive oil producer in the gorgeous tiny village of Vallbona de les Monges in the Lleida province, which is most definitely worth a visit and taste on its own, especially for their white wines. While being a great winery in the DO Costers del Segre region, what makes them unique is the social component of their enterprise in that they employ people with mental disabilities to work in the cellar and with the olives. At Can Calopa, all these workers are Barcelonians referred by social services who benefit from outdoor work in this tranquil, pleasing setting. The initial notes of this harmonic chord were struck between the city government of Barcelona and l’Olivera in 2006 which led to the building of the on-site residence for those that l’Olivera is aiding. They now have 12 residents who, just as in Vallbona, are employed to work in the vineyards and winery performing all sorts of tasks. For the last three years, this group of l’Olivera employees has been fully running the winery. If you’ve ever met anyone at either of the two cellars, you’ll know them to be some of the most content people in the world as they both make excellent wines while at the same time do work that has a real impact on our society. These days they’re producing 10 to 12,000 bottles of wine a year at Can Calopa, but they aren’t looking to grow more as they’re not only meeting the needs of the city’s ‘wine diplomacy’, they’re also at full capacity with the on-site workers. They currently produce two red wines: Vinyes de Collserola and Vinyes de Barcelona. If you haven’t had the chance to taste the wines at a local city event, they are now starting to run more visits to the winery and have two open days a year, around May and September. The workers of Can Calopa use these times to educate the public about their social project as well as, of course, show off the wines that have been silently growing for over a decade just over the hill from our fine city.

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MORE INFO Can Calopa: www.facebook.com/CanCalopa L’Olivera: you can visit the cooperative in Vallbona de les Monges, some two hours by car from Barcelona. They’re more than happy to welcome visitors to their winery to see the work that they’re doing not only in terms of wine and olive oil, but also for the community. You can also enjoy a taste of their products with their excellent gourmet Christmas hampers that are available during the holidays and include products from their other project, a bakery close to the winery.

They are some of the most content people in the world as they both make excellent wines while at the same time do work that has a real impact on our society.

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DESIGN 23

SHADES OF GREY

Fashion is an integral part of Barcelona industry and Catalans have developed their own discerning eye for cut and colour. By Lynn Baiori.

Josep Abril—Clothing creator In the world of men’s couture, you could say that clothing designer Josep Abril is ‘anti-fashionista’. His studio sits in a loft that, in other times, was a factory space. An obsolete smokestack stands outside as both a remnant of the location’s industrial past and as a romantic landmark, the portal to Abril’s centre creatiu. His wife Alessia greets me at the door and leads me into a modest workspace jammed with racks of Josep’s designs in various stages of creation. Paper patterns, casual wear, dress wear, there’s even a kimono that Josep will refer to as he again prepares to work with La Fura dels Baus, in collaboration with Lluis Castells, on an interpretation of Madama Butterfly, which will show in Sydney next year. Josep is also busy at work on costumes for The Flying Dutchman, to be performed in Lyon, and let’s not forget ‘Uniformed by’, his division that makes uniforms for elegant hotels and restaurants. Meanwhile, his Spring/Summer 2014 menswear collection hit the catwalk in Barcelona last July and he’s looking ahead to Fall/Winter 14. It’s a lot of output for a designer with just three people on staff, including himself, and a couple of interns who are fortunate to have a chance to work with this prolific Catalan designer. Fashion is generally not slow art. There is a pressure to continually innovate, to have something unique on display twice a year. “Or every six weeks,” Josep corrects me. The trend is towards even faster output. I ask him how it’s possible to remain successful in such a competitive market. His answer is a demonstration of Catalan seny (common sense): “I try to make things that are more anachronistic, more lasting,” referring to the tendency in fashion to change for the sake of change. Though the pressure to innovate may be greater in women’s fashion, Josep manages to draw attention in the more sober world of menswear. He begins with the original inspiration and his designs evolve over time, by transforming elements from one collection to the next, giving his work a signature look and a sense of continuity. “I don’t call it fashion,” he states emphatically. “I call it clothing.” Josep Abril has made a niche for himself in the menswear market, selling both here and abroad. He has designed for the Catalan firm, Armand Basi. His work has been sold in New York’s Bloomingdale’s and he has a strong following in the Swiss and German markets. In Barcelona, his designs attract the attention of visitors looking for something authentically local. We look over the racks of clothing in the space he calls his StoreRoom, open to the public each Thursday from 4-8pm, making it possible to buy original pieces directly from Josep’s showroom. I notice a certain subtlety of colour that I associate with the restrained Catalan style. He agrees that compared to Madrileños, the Basques or, say, Italians, the Catalan desire for discretion is evident even in the way they dress. As

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I look over the clothing, I realise that stronger colours are used as an accent, with skill and to make a point. Is it possible that Catalans are more sensitive to slight variations in tone? In response, Josep holds up three jacket sleeves. To me, they all look more or less the same, navy or black; his answer implies that a local would have less trouble spotting the difference. I can’t argue—I’m wearing a metallic turquoise leather jacket and lavender jeans. That the Catalan eye can distinguish minor variations of black, blue or grey may demystify some of the puzzling aspects of the local character. The latest collection includes a Persian green double-breasted shirt and a floor-length jacket. More strikingly, there is a man’s skirt. “Are you expecting to sell many of those?” I ask. “No, that I made for the collection,” he says. But who knows, maybe a hip Scotsman will buy one. Catalan and Italian textile houses provide the cotton, linen and wool Josep chooses. There is a warmth in the textures, a playfulness in the asymmetry of his designs. It really is a kind of ‘slow fashion’, gracefully constructed, attentively planned, homegrown. Abril Studio, Consell de Cent 159. www.josepabril.com

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24

FEATURE

Good vibrations

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f you unexpectedly find yourself swarmed by an eccentrically clothed group desperate to give you free lemonade or in the middle of a night-time picnic where everyone is wearing their best outfits, don’t be alarmed. You have, happily for you, stumbled across one of Barcelona’s ‘Good Vibrations’ initiatives, which aims to bring joy to those who dare to take

part. Our default mental state tends to focus mainly on our routine daily tasks, which rarely allow us to pause and take in moments of magic and wonder going on around us. Along with the difficult times that Barcelona is currently facing as Spain’s economy declines, affecting many industries and employment, it is becoming harder to find reasons to be cheerful. Good Vibrations Barcelona (GVB) is a movement that started just over a year ago whose main purpose is to spread happiness and positivity in the community. A simple concept perhaps, but a daunting task in such a diverse and populous city. However, by focusing on the brighter side of things and with their high spirits and unique social

This social movement spreads positivity throughout Barcelona with random acts of kindness. By Andreas Vou. experiments, they are managing to alleviate some of the tension in the air. The group is the brainchild of Peter Sharp, a highly energised free spirit who loves nothing more than to break the boundaries of the perceived norm and to shake up the public’s robotic lifestyle. Having organised house parties and events from a young age in his native Australia, followed by a successful spell as a DJ, Peter arrived in Barcelona with the aim of continuing to spread positivity. “I have been organising parties and bringing my friends together since I was 13. When I came here I was looking for a way to be all that I could be in my everyday life. I noticed a large amount of restrictive energy in society—people losing jobs, economy going down. So, along with my team, we came up with the concept of sharing positivity and energy to make changes.” The core of this small yet committed team consists of around 15 of Peter’s close acquaintances who plan, formulate and execute each stunt. They all see themselves as people of the world, a group where kindness and understanding are of far greater significance than race,

Social experiment nº 1: Dance like nobody’s watching As the name of the experiment suggests, Peter aimed to capture the liberating concept of dancing the way we all do when we know there’s no audience. Except he did it on a typically busy day on La Rambla. Striding through tourists as if invisible, he did what most would be shy of doing in front of their own mirror.

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FEATURE 25

Social Experiment nº 2: Epic water fight Split into two teams, over 120 people gathered at Parc Ciutadella to fight it out with water pistols. There was no real way of distinguishing a winner but neither side seemed too bothered.

They all see themselves as people of the world, a group where kindness and understanding are of far greater significance than race, religion or nationality.

religion or nationality. “We are global citizens,” says Peter. “We do not judge others by their place of birth, religion, profession, language. We look for and value quality human characteristics—such as [the ability] to express compassion, empathy and love—as of far greater importance.” Peter believes that setting a good example with actions has a much bigger impact than words. “We don’t just talk about being the people we want in the world, we take actions that reflect being the people who we want in the world. We re-centre our focus on the humanistic things that bring us feelings of happiness, connectedness, love, empathy, trust, respect and compassion.” The social experiments take place once a month and tend to vary in style; the concept can be as simple as the ‘Cookie Flashmob’, where the group took to the streets with a plate of biscuits to give out to the public in exchange for a positive deed such as giving a hug, telling a joke or doing a little dance. Then there are the more elaborate stunts, such as October’s ‘Pop-up Picnic’: the crew gathered in Plaça del Sol one evening dressed in their best attire, laid out tablecloths and invited members of the public to join in. Various surprises were brought in

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Social experiment nº 3: Welcoming tourists Arriving in a new city can make some people feel uneasy, what with the unfamiliar surroundings and not knowing what kind of atmosphere you’re entering into. This inspired the group to greet tourists with ‘Welcome’ signs, free sweets, maps and a bright smile as they got off the Aerobus in Plaça Catalunya.

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FEATURE

Social experiment nº 4: I trust you, do you trust me? Give me a hug Peter stood in the middle of a busy square, blindfolded and with a sign at his feet saying “Do you trust me? Give me a hug.” The idea was to test whether the public were able to trust someone they had never previously met. While many hesitated at the beginning, after the first person broke the ice, many others felt at ease to follow suit.

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throughout the night including a mini pyrotechnic show as well as a performance by a professional dance group. Regardless of the magnitude of each event, the core characteristics remain the same. There are always a fair number of ‘Good Vibers’ capturing the vital moments of their activities on camera; while the emotion of the events has an instant impact on those taking part, it is crucial for the purpose of the movement to be able to share their exploits with the world via their social media channels, as it plays a pivotal role in spreading inspiration beyond just Barcelona. Already, people from various parts of the world have got in contact with the group to ask if they could replicate some of GVB’s experiments, requests to which they gleefully acceded. Curious experimentalists from Poland and Austria who attended an event while in Barcelona were eager to see the effect it would have in their homelands, while friends from as far away as Venezuela have been getting in on the action. Most young professionals are striving to come up with the next big business that will springboard them to financial security but, for Peter, fulfillment is not measured in currency. “The key to making a lasting and meaningful change in the world will come from mutual

love, a connection people can share on a far deeper level. I think we all have the ability to feel happiness but we are lacking the platforms to find it. It is like buying a car to find happiness. Of course, you may feel happy for a moment but it is not the deep feeling.” There are no sponsors, investors, admission fees or merchandise; it is a collective approach where each community member offers their own skills to the cause and are repaid with trust and friendship. Those are the values that the group was built on and they intend to remain the same. Peter believes that, as well as having fun with the group and creating lasting memories, “we are all working towards liberating the human spirit. Together we are removing the chains of unrealistic expectation and are allowing the more organic and honest inner selves to shine.”

MORE INFO To see the Good Vibers in action, keep up with their activities and even participate in future experiments, check out their Facebook page as well as their YouTube channel, both under the name ‘Good Vibrations Barcelona’.

Social experiment nº 5: Pop-up Picnic More than 80 Good Vibers arrived in formal clothing at the busy Plaça del Sol for a surprise picnic on a Saturday night, to share food, drink and conversation and invited members of the public to join in.

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Thank god it’s Friday, the inbox is empty, the desk is clear (as far as that’s possible) and I definitely need a drink to finish off this week.

19:30 - I join my friend at the Zinc Bar in the Hotel Villa Emilia, one of the hot spots in the Example, which she found out about through a networking event organised there last summer. As I enter I am impressed by the stylish décor, which mixes modernism with a bistrot spirit. In the back, there is a bodega with a huge variety of regional wines, next to which there is a display with fresh fruit and vegetables as well as cheeses and cold cuts… you almost feel as though you could be in a market place. Karim sat us near the fireplace and offered us a wine from his friend Ivo, which is served with a little tapa. And while we settled down, a jazz combo began to play (the evening starts off well)

20:00 - Completely relaxed while listening to a cover version of a Sinatra song, we start getting serious, on the menu is a range of seasonal cooking. Following the waiter’s advice we order a freshly made potato tortilla, calamari with ratatouille and a small plate of beef onglet with baked potatoes, little onions and spinach…(any space left for dessert? …yes, so let’s go for apple pie and tiramisú). This is authentic bistrot cuisine, where the local products are treated with care and “sans chichi”, according to Karim. After dinner, we switch into cocktail mood with a mojito and gin & tonic prepared by Amauri on the rooftop terrace… how could you possibly end the evening better?

23:30 - We need to share this experience with our friends, so, message sent and reservation made for brunch here next Sunday… I’m looking forward to coming back.

zinc bar – Hotel Villa Emilia Calle Calabria 115-117, 08015, Barcelona. Reservations 93 252 5285

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INTERVIEW 29

ADHAM fisher Metro runner, British

My fascination with visiting underground stations stemmed from being a regular visitor to London. One day, I wondered if it was possible to visit every stop in one day. I looked it up and found there was a Guinness World Record for it: currently 16 hours, 20 minutes and 27 seconds. I have attempted it around 20 times and my best time is 16 hours, 44 minutes and 15 seconds. I must have visited around 22 underground and rapid transit systems around the world so far. My favourite is London as I have travelled on it the most, but Paris is also good because it is so dense. Barcelona is the only system I’ve come across that has a minute/second countdown system. I did the Barcelona metro run about a year ago, visiting every station. It took me a total of four hours, 49 minutes and 45 seconds to complete, which was, as someone pointed out, quite a poetic time. I was staying down the road from the Sagrada Família, and remember walking past it on my way to the metro and feeling that it was magnificent, but I don’t go to the cities to see the sights: I just concentrate on their underground systems. London and New York are the only networks that qualify under the Guinness rules, but I just appy their criteria and do it on my own. The train must stop at every station, but you don’t have to alight until it is time to change. I take the escalators to save time, but having a good basic fitness helps when running between lines. It is 30 percent planning and 70 percent luck—there are so many things that can go wrong. Red signals are the worst: once I waited 20 minutes for a signal to clear in London as there was a train stuck

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on the platform, but I wasn’t on a running mission that day so it didn’t matter. I don’t go in for official accolades but occasionally I get picked up by the local press. The Toronto equivalent of 20 Minutos ran a cover story on me, for example, and I was given a plaque of a subway stop with my name on it by the Chicago Transit Authority. The Toronto thing was quite big, actually: I had a temporary fanbase for a couple of days, which was quite funny. I never tell people I am going on a run. It is quite interesting to go away for several days and find out no one misses me, so when there has been press attention, people back home are usually surprised. I prefer to have what I call ‘secret pressure’. I don’t usually talk to people when I am travelling, unless they show an interest in what I am doing. There is actually a lot to think about in terms of the route and the documentation. Some people Tweet while they are doing it, but I bloody hate the thing! If I am attempting a record, I will need a witness signature, but that is the only time I usually approach people. When I am not doing this or working, I sit at home researching metro systems or search Google Street View. I spend many early hours going to different places, and looking up borders and time zones. I am probably the most boring person you are ever likely to meet! www.cribbit.net/adham.asp Interview by Nicola Thornton.

11/19/13 1:00:31 PM


30 FEATURE

Revealing the hidden city

A new Barcelona tour employs local homeless people as its guides. By Prithika Nair Tully.

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hen asked, Lisa Grace names Juan Carlos as the biggest surprise in her journey to set up Hidden City Tours, a new Barcelona tour service that employs local homeless people as its guides that launched in October. Juan Carlos is one of the two current guides (the other is Fernando) and, even in this offbeat venture, is an unlikely star. While others who were more confident, more theatrical, more impressive never made it, Juan Carlos, with his shy manner and understated storytelling, proved he had what it takes to be a Barcelona tour guide. I met him on a tour a couple of months back. In just under two hours he led our group through the city’s Barri Gòtic and the Raval. We walked past many of Barcelona’s famous landmarks: the Cathedral, the shrine to the martyred Saint Eulàlia and the Jewish quarter. It isn’t just historical accuracy that marks this tour out from a lot of others in the city, however, it’s also the unique perspective the guides afford you as they seek to work their way out of homelessness. The insight of Juan Carlos and Fernando adds an extra dimension to the historical tour that you won’t find elsewhere. In the same breath with which Juan Carlos points out mortar scars from the Spanish

Civil War, he’ll casually mention that the other side of the square is a favoured spot for rough sleepers, opposite the €200-a-night hotel. As you walk past the Liceu and hear its chequered history, he’ll also point out the soup kitchen, Comedor Reina de la Paz (Canteen of the Queen of Peace). Ironically, it’s better known to patrons as ‘Leones’ (Lions), due to the vicious fights that often break out there. Further down the road, the tour takes you under the shadow of the Filmoteca and close to El Chiringuito de Dios (the Beach Bar of God), a kitchen run by German Wolfgang Striebinger. The kitchen is privately funded by donations and has Juan Carlos flummoxed by the fact that, unlike ‘Leones’, the Chiringuito de Dios is a peaceful set-up with no outbreaks of violence. “It must be that German orderliness,” comments one of the tour group. We hear about other local heroes, such as the staff at Raval rotisserie Pollo Rico who, at the end of the day, sell off leftover chickens at token prices to poor families. Being a Pollo Rico patron myself, this nugget of information pleases me greatly. According to the report Diagnosis 2013, produced by Barcelona city council, in the last thorough count carried out in 2008, there were an estimated 3,000 homeless people in Barcelona. An unknown number

There is an increasing number of younger rough sleepers with educational qualifications.

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FEATURE 31

Juan Carlos takes different groups around the centre of Barcelona; right—in front of the Chiringuito de Dios soup kitchen. Images courtesy of Hidden City Tours

move between the homes of friends and family. They are called the ‘invisible homeless’, a category young foreign residents may sometimes find themselves in as they negotiate the shadowy world of off-the-books employment and temperamental sub-letting. Although the typical profile of a homeless person is low-skilled, middle-aged and male, there is an increasing number of younger rough sleepers with educational qualifications. As Juan Carlos explains, first you lose your job, then the money runs out and then the love often runs out as well. The Catalan and Spanish governments devotes the lion’s share of their resources in this sector to ensuring children don’t end up on the street, so it’s usually the men who slip through the cracks. If you don’t get a job soon enough, things catch up with you. “You can’t imagine that moment when you realise you are completely alone and on the street,” Fernando adds. A former taxi driver, Fernando is multilingual and happily chatters away to the group in English or French. He loves to travel. “I’ve been to the UK, most of Europe and even India,” he tells me. “I went with my wife...” His voice falters only slightly before returning to his cheerful demeanour. “Beautiful countries!” Fernando spent a year sleeping rough. It’s hard to imagine as he sits there in his shirt and tie. His outspoken exuberance contrasts strikingly with Juan Carlos’s quieter personality. Perhaps the 10 years Juan Carlos spent on the streets after losing his job at an appliance manufacturing factory has had a more profound impact on him. He met Briton and long-term Barcelona resident Lisa Grace last year when she contacted Arrels Fundació, a charity that runs an open centre providing facilities such as showers and storage. Juan Carlos had started visiting the centre to use the showers and, with help from the foundation, had secured state-protected housing. Having just lost her job as a market researcher, Grace had the idea to start her own enterprise

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and was inspired by similar projects such as London’s Unseen Tours. When Arrels Fundació introduced her to interested candidates, she immediately pegged Juan Carlos as the weakest candidate. However, in the spirit of the project, that of inclusion, she gave him a try. As quirky as life is, Juan Carlos became Hidden City Tours’ first guide. “The aim is to generate enough income to provide our guides with sustainable wages that they can use to move forward,” says Grace. “Coming out of homelessness is a long and slow fight. There is a great deal of responsibility and we need to be careful and considered in our approach as we learn how to work with our guides.” The guides receive 50 percent of the income of any tour they work on. Her aim is to grow the business to the extent that more guides can be recruited. The London tour has expanded in the past three years to enable six homeless people to be employed, and similar growth here would meet Grace’s hopes for the enterprise. As we share a post-tour coffee, Fernando and I get into an animated discussion about the state of society and the vicious circles people get trapped in. We talk about the need for a change in the system and how not enough importance is given to the people at the bottom. Juan Carlos shakes his head at us. “I don’t want to be important; I want to be useful.”

MORE INFO - To book a tour, visit www.hiddencitytours.com or email lisa.grace@ hiddencitytours.com. Tours costs €10 or €8 for retired people, students and under-16s. Groups are kept small and intimate, so places are limited and you need to book in advance. - To find out how you can support El Chiringuito de Dios, visit www.elchiringuitodedios.com - Arrels Fundació: www.arrelsfundacio.org

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32 TRAVEL

Shopping trip

Tuck your Christmas list in your pocket and head to Girona, with its seasonal market, historic centre and range of independent shops. By Jay Collins.

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oes your heart sink at the thought of another year battling the crowds on Portal del Angel? Feeling guilty for trying to solve the Christmas shop in one fell swoop online? Then it’s time to turn the whole sorry affair into something much more fun by treating yourself to a day out whilst getting the necessaries dealt with. Girona is just an hour and a quarter away by train (or 37 minutes on the AVE) and its pretty, compact old centre is a wonderful place to spend a day. It has lots of quirky shops, cool eateries and cafés to keep the body nourished and watered, and bags of history to fill the soul. Shopping Most of the big high street brands are found in the newer part of town or in the Espai Girona shopping centre outside the city. This means that the hordes of really serious local shoppers will be heading out there, leaving us to indulge ourselves in the much quainter retail therapy available in the little cobbled streets of the old town. That’s not to say that it doesn’t get busy, but it’s still a slower, calmer experience than most places pre-Christmas. The old centre is great shopping territory with lots of little independent shops, craft shops and fabulous delicatessens. You’ll probably begin your day on La Rambla de la Llibertat. Developed in the 13th century to hold the municipal market, the street is characterised by its low arcades and unequal arches. It has long been the city’s commercial centre and has several outstanding Modernista buildings. In the summertime, this pedestrian, tree-lined street is a hive of activity, filled with terrace cafés, tourists and buskers. In winter, the street is reclaimed by the locals and lit up by the Fira de Navidad, with its stalls selling Christmas trees, ornaments and every detail a nativity scene could possibly need. From the Rambla, stroll around the adjacent little streets and you’ll find plenty of interesting shops. Particularly worth a mention are Carrer Nou and Carrer Ballesteries and, just across the Onyar river and reachable by way of a pedestrian bridge, is the narrrow street of Santa Clara, home to lots of little independent shops. Some of our favourite shops: La Carpa (Ballesteries 37, www.lacarpa.cat). A small toy shop packed to the gills with imaginative toys and crafts. You can see a lot of their products on their website to help plan your shopping.

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Fira Pont de Pedra © Ajuntament de Girona. Photographer: Toni Vilches

Colmado Moriscot (C/ dels Ciutadans 4). Step back a hundred years in this beautiful Modernista ‘colmado’. Built in 1908, it conserves many original details and is packed with local foods and licquors. Nou taller de vidre (C/ de les Hortes 2, www.noutallerdevidre. com). This workshop designs and creates its own unique glass pieces, from small items of jewellery to sculptures, and everything in between. Ambrosia (Careras Peralta 4). Located through the courtyard of a beautiful medieval building, this shop is perfect for some uniquely Catalan presents. All the products are made by local nuns and monks and include lots of beautifully packaged sweets and biscuits. Gluki (Santa Clara 44, www.gluki.cat). These artisanal chocolatiers make the whole sumptious range themselves. Sightseeing With a population of just under 100,000 people, Girona is often overshadowed by Barcelona. But the city has an immensely rich patrimony. Originally founded by the Iberians, it has undergone 25 sieges and been captured seven times. It has been home to the Romans, Visigoths and Moors and was one of Europe’s most important Jewish centres. Much of its history has been well preserved and you can weave your sightseeing and shopping seamlessly together as you

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TRAVEL 33

amble around the old streets. Get a free map from the tourist office (Rambla de la Llibertat 1) to make sure you don’t miss anything.

to observe different aspects of the Call, from community life to the synagogue, festivals and traditions.

Cathedral Located in the heart of the old town and at once looming above it (it’s a 91-step climb to the entrance), this imposing building was constructed between the 11th and 18th centuries and includes many different architectural styles, from Romanesque (the cloister and Charlemagne tower) to the Baroque façade and steps. Its 23-metre-wide Gothic nave, from the 15th century, is the widest of its kind in the world. The Call Girona’s Call is one of the city’s most emblematic areas and one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in the world, reflecting the cultural importance of the Jewish heritage in Girona. It consists of a maze of narrow streets and courtyards that have kept their medieval atmosphere. The Jewish community flourished in Girona in the 12th century, and at its peak there were 1,000 inhabitants in the Call. Their history ended in Girona in 1492, when the Catholic Kings expelled all Jews from Catalunya. Arab Baths (C/ Ferran el Católic) This beautifully-preserved building from 1194 was inspired by Roman baths. It was closed down in the 15th century and became the private property of a Capuchin convent, which used it as a pantry and laundry. In 1929, it became public property and restoration work began. Its most outstandng features include the entrance, which is covered with a barrel vault, and the cupola covering the central pool, which is supported by ornately-decorated columns. Museum of Jewish History (C/ de la Forca 8) This museum tells the story of the community that lived in the cramped alleys of the Call. Pictures, artefacts and models are used

Lighting of Christmas tree © Ajuntament de Girona. Photographer: Toni Vilches

Houses on the River Onyar After the medieval streets of the Call, the brightly-painted houses that overlook the River Onyar provide a striking contrast. These houses have been built over the years and although the colours may seem random to the untrained eye, they do in fact follow a palette created by Catalan artist Enric Ansesa. The only house open to the public is Casa Masó (Ballesteries 29), the former home of Modernista architect Rafael Masó. The house is beautifully preserved with all the family’s original furniture and art. It offers a rare glimpse into wellto-do society in 19th-century Girona. You have to book visits to the house in advance.

Vilches

Carrer Santa Clara © Ajuntament de Girona. Photographer: Toni Vilches

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11/20/13 12:24:21 PM


34 RESTAURANT REVIEW

FERMÍ PUIG

Prawn ‘brick’

The eponymous Catalan chef has opened his own Barcelona restaurant, serving up good (although not quite great) local fare. By Tara Stevens. ✪NOT WORTH THE TRIP

M

✪✪COULD IMPROVE

✪✪✪GOOD

y first thought on entering Fermí Puig’s new restaurant, with its low ceilings, tables lined up in straight lines against the walls and men in suits, was that it looked and felt like some sort of office. “Couldn’t we have a table in that golden looking place near the back?” we asked immediately. It glowed invitingly, looking like just the kind of place where you’d be happy to be cocooned one chilly winter’s evening having an intimate tête-à-tête, but alas, we were told, it is only for groups. Boo. Still, things went upwards from there thanks to warm service that ensured that the cava flowed freely and soon we were basking in the bubbly-glow of a mini-fest all of our very own. Food-wise, this is the kind of restorative Catalan fare that is just right after a long winter’s walk. Think pig’s trotters and beef cheeks, slabs of hake, chickpeas and cabbage, wild mushrooms and offal, all washed down with an excellent wine list. It probably won’t appeal to vegetarians, but no wonder the suits like it. Not since the early Nineties have I eaten anywhere quite so male and, I confess, when it comes to solid food, that’s generally a very good sign. And it was good, just not mind-blowing. I loved the crunchy finger of toast spread thickly with anchovy butter and topped with a slowcooked, ultra porky strip of pancetta. Any old-school cook will tell you that anchovies and lamb are a match made in heaven, but who knew this was equally true of pork? Delicious. My pal’s trinxat of wild mushrooms was a formidable mound of mash, I’ll give it that, but the potatoes were mushy rather than creamy, and it seemed a bit of a waste of the season’s beautiful shrooms. “It’s what I’d cobble together for my six year old out of leftovers,” she said sagely. My

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✪✪✪✪VERY GOOD

✪✪✪✪✪NOT TO BE MISSED

rabbit and chicken terrine was a pretty slab of meat studded with pistachios and apricots, deeply savoury with a gentle sweetness cleverly offset by the tang of pickled carrot and courgette ribbons. You would be very happy with that and a glass of wine for a more moderate lunch. My friend had the pilota d’escudella, which is, aside from being the oldest referenced soup in Europe, a dish deeply connected to Christmas if you’re in the mood for something traditional, and madly comforting if you’re simply cold and crotchety. I defy you to find a better one in town than this with its meaty broth, strips of green cabbage that retained a bite, plump and creamy chickpeas, tender and juicy pork, parsley and garlic balls, but it is what it is. I had line-caught hake (palangre) in a stew of romesco, tomatoes and the silkiest potatoes. It was beautifully cooked if a little under-seasoned, but strangely underwhelming. Perhaps it’s just me but after all the rave reviews I was expecting to be wowed just a little bit more, though I suspect the rather clinical setting (save for the golden room, of course) doesn’t provide quite the right frame for the classics in the way you’d hope. Desserts, curiously enough, didn’t get us going on paper, but made for sensational eating. Finally, here were the fireworks in the form of little slices of borracha (booze soaked cake) with darkly exotic flavours like rum and coffee and chocolate, and that special something you get from having a very hot element and a very cold one together on the plate. Likewise a piña colada-inspired creation of ice-cream, granita and fresh fruit to give one last, clever, palettecleansing blast.

11/20/13 12:25:16 PM


All photos courtesy of Restaurant Fermí Puig

RESTAURANT REVIEW 35

Lobster parmentier

When the bill came, it was a neat €70. I was expecting the usual extras—the glass of cava we had separately to our bottle as an aperitif, a few euros for coffee, maybe something for the bread basket—but it had none of that, which left us with a warm and satisfied glow. Puig is, after all, one of Catalunya’s greatest chefs, and now that he’s found a place to call his own, he’s doing a fine job of honouring his culinary heritage.

Authentic Mexican Restaurant located in the heart of the Eixample Esquerra where you can enjoy the most typical Mexican dishes and first-class service in a unique environment. The restaurant is tastefully decorated and furnished to make you feel like you’re in a Mexican hacienda. You can also enjoy our cocktail menu and the best Margaritas in town in our lounge/bar area as well as

Balmes 175, Eixample. Tel. 93 624 1835. www.restaurantfermipuig.com. Open: Tue-Sat, 1-3.30pm, 8.30-11.30pm. Lunch menu €35 incl. wine; dinner menu €45 not incl. wine. ✪✪✪

taking advantage of our weekly promotions. We recommend our nachos con pastor, our ceviches, exquisite tacos and meats.

Calle Mallorca 188

|

Tel. 93 127 1051

|

www.elalebrijebarcelona.com

Check our Facebook page ElAlebrijeBarcelona for daily promotions.

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11/20/13 12:25:19 PM


36 QUICK BITES

MARTINEZ Enjoy the clear blue sky of a December day in Barcelona at this Montjuïc restaurant specialising in proper paellas. By Tara Stevens. Photos by Aimee McLachlan.

O

f the many wonderful things about life in Barcelona, one of my favourites is the alternative Christmas. The pared-back version where, instead of doing all the entertaining at home, you get out and let someone else do the cooking. Martinez, granted, would be more obviously reviewed as a summer destination, since it is essentially an open-air terrace next door to the Miramar Hotel and rose gardens on Montjuïc. However, as Barcelona errs to mainly good weather and the restaurant will be open on Boxing Day with a special menú, it fits the bill perfectly for this month. They pull over a cover if it rains, see-through screens protect from the wind, the views over the port and out across the Mediterranean are gorgeous, the lack of traffic a relief, the service smart and charming. But chances are the sky will be blue and the sun will be shining, and truly, what could be a better treat for the Christmas holidays than having lunch in the sun on a terrace? It’s as good as getting away from it all except better, because you don’t have to do all that travel madness. Anyway, what’s not to love about a basket that comes filled with ice and a bottle of Casa Mariol vermut sticking out of the top with glasses ready garnished with olives and lemon? And then to sip it while nib-

36. Quick bites PDF.indd 42

bling on a heaped pot of steaming mussels, all plump and sea-salty, a decadently creamy ensaladilla rusa dotted with jewels of pea and carrot, and some crunchy, gooey croquetas brimming with essence of jamón that slips down just so. After that, you have a choice of paellas (the proper kind, so expect a thin layer of deeply flavoured savoury rice and don’t skimp on scoffing the starters) or a fideuà. Ours was the rossejat, which means it has been baked off in the oven at the end giving the rice a chewier edge, and was scattered with fried baby squid. That’s exactly how I like my paella—I don’t want Spanish rice masquerading as risotto—and it went a treat with the bottle of Albariño we polished off with it. Dessert is a simple affair—crema Catalana, fruit, ice-cream—but exactly right. As you sip your rich, dark espresso in the haze of this properly boozy lunch, you may just find yourself wishing Christmas, or at least part of it, could always be like this. Feliz Navidad! Miramar 38, Montjuïc. Tel. 93 106 6052. Lunch menu: €45 for three courses, vermut and a bottle of wine. Winter timetable (until March): Mon-Sun, 10am-6pm. www.martinezbarcelona.com

11/20/13 12:26:47 PM


FOOD & DRINK 37

Food&Drink

For more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

NEFW &D

Discount for Metropolitan readers.

IN

Bar

 under 20 |  20-30 |  30-40 |  over 40 RV Reservation Advised

Café COCKTAILS €5

Bar 684raval Located in the heart of Raval, Bar 68 has established itself as a classic cocktail joint over the last 12 years. As one of the pioneering hotspots in the area, Bar 68 combines a great atmosphere, cool urban funk and soul sounds, and tasty cocktails, to make this an ideal location for a great night out. Open every day from 8pm until 3am.  Sant Pau 68 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 441 3115

BOLLOCKS BAR4Barri gÒtic

Plató café4LES CORTS This is an innovative restaurant that is open from 8am, serving breakfasts, lunchtime menús and a delicious range of tapas. This is the ideal place for meeting friends after work. This fun and original theme restaurant will make you feel as though you were on a film set. They also offer spectacular brunches every Saturday. 

The quintessential rock bar in downtown Barcelona. Covered in posters and graffiti from top to bottom, the bar has the air of an abandoned subway station where daily riffs and whiskey bring together all those who carry rock & roll in their blood. 

Ample 46 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am M. 663 710 095 | www.bollocksbcn.com

NEFW &D IN

Gandesa 6 | Metro Maria Cristina Tel. 93 250 2626

Bagel YES WE BAGEL

SPICE CAFÉ4POBLE SEC

Take it easy on weekends. YES WE BAGEL delivers fresh hand rolled bagels on Saturday mornings. Do you miss having Bagels for breakfast or brunch? Make your order online before 6pm on Friday afternoons and they will be at your door first thing Saturday mornings. Choose from Plain, Sesame, Everything, Onion and Cinnamon Raisin. They also arrange events and offer office service. Don’t hesitate to get in touch. 

Spice Café is an independently owned coffee shop in the heart of Poble Sec. Spice Café makes quality home-made baked goods on a daily basis, and they offer their personal blend of coffee which is Rainforest Alliance certified. Come and try their star product—their rich, delicious carrot cake which is considered one of the best in Barcelona! Free Wi-Fi and great, friendly service. Always. 

Order at www.yeswebagel.com or call 626 990 713

BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed. 

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

Food & drink Dec 2013.indd 45

Margarit 13 I Tel. 936 24 33 59 I www.spicecafe.es Wed-Sun 11am-9pm, Tues and holidays 5pm-9pm, Closed Mon

carrot cafe4 poblenou The ultimate sandwich place in one of the fastest-growing districts of Barcelona@22. They offer a great selection of sandwiches served on more than 11 types of artisan bread. In addition to their premium hamburgers, beef, turkey and lamb halal, you will find an extensive menu in an inviting location. Without a doubt, Carrot Cafe is the place of excellence for sandwiches in Barcelona.€

Tànger 22 I Metro Bogatell Tel. 93 309 3375 I Mon-Fri 9am-11pm, Sat 8am-midnight www.carrotcafe.es

11/20/13 2:18:37 PM


38 FOOD & DRINK Indian KEIK 4SARRIÀ / SAnt GERvASI

SItAr4POBLEnOu Situated in the heart of the fashionable Rambla de Poblenou, this cool, modern Indian restaurant offers the most exquisite variety of Indian cuisine you’ll find in Barcelona. They want to provide the best recipes, inherited from their ancestors, using the same fresh and seasonal ingredients, the same spices, the same touch and the same aroma, to create that mouth-wateringly unique and authentic flavour. 

International fusion dishes, plus a big variety of salads. Everything is made fresh and with top quality ingredients. Save space for their wonderful cakes and desserts - eat in or take away. On Saturdays and Sundays they offer brunch from 10am til 12.45pm, including eggs benedict, French toast and granola. Open every day of the year. 

Rambla de Poblenou 101, 08005 T. 93 603 5909 | www.restaurantesitar.com Open Mon-Sun 12pm-12am

Doctor Fleming 21 | Tel. 93 414 5536 | www.keik.es

Indian / Pakistani CAFÈ MANDACArÚ4PoBLE SEC

NICE SPICE4POBLEnOu

The irresistible food, fantastic wine list and the beautiful interior make Cafè Mandacarú a unique space, equally suitable for a coffee, a glass of wine or delightful tapas. You can also enjoy a lovely cocktail or liquor in a welcoming atmosphere, and be happily surprised to listen to the best musicians in concert every week. 

Specialists in Tandoori. Typical halaal cuisine with high quality dishes. See the chefs prepare and cook your food which is all made with fresh ingredients. Boasting a Bollywood musical ambience, Nice Spice is an excellent choice for traditional Indian food in Barcelona. 

Magalhães, 35 | Metro Poble Sec or Paral·lel | Near Plaça del Sortidor | Tel. 93 441 4017 www.cafemandacaru.com | Wed-Sun from 6.30pm

Burger LILIBUrGEr4EIXAMPLE D You can choose from four types of burger: classic, cheeseburger, barbecue as well as bacon cheese, for 8 to 9.50. Sides include fries, bbq chicken wings, chicken nuggets and salads. Free delivery. 

Pujades 207 | Metro Poblenou T. 93 308 9548 www.restaurantenicespice.com Wed-Mon 12pm-4pm, 8pm to 12am

Rosselló 290, 08037 I Tel. 93 458 0710 I www.liliburger.com Every day 1pm-3.30pm and 7.30pm-11.30pm

Indian / tandoori MADNoo FooDS4 POBLEnOu

PIM PAM BUrGEr4BORn Here quality is of the utmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises. 

Need to spice up your life? Try this new Tandoori restaurant in Poblenou. Authentic Punjabi cuisine made with the freshest ingredients. Madnoo Foods, situated in the @22 district, offers a unique dining experience. Serving contemporary Indian dishes, they blend delicate flavours and light textures and use the very finest ingredients. Free delivery. 10 percent discount on take away. 

Sabateret 4, Born I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I burger@pimpamplats.com Calle Bigai 1, Bonanova, 08022 I Tel. 93 211 5606 www.pimpamburger.com I Every day 1pm-12am

Delivery

Food & drink Dec 2013.indd 46

Sancho de Avila 167-171 I Tel. 93 172 8131 Metro Glòries / Poblenou I Tram Glòries Every day 11am-11pm

Japanese VItALI PIZZA4 BARCELOnA

DoBLE ZEroo4BORn/ MARESME

Gourmet pizza delivery from 3 locations offering 50+ thin-crust, homemade pizzas. With specials like three large cheese pizzas for 15 and the option to pay by credit card, it makes for an affordable meal at home without all the fuss. Special offer: 2X1 on every Monday home delivery! 

This contemporary and cosmopolitan Japanese restaurant uses all the secrets and art of exotic cuisines to create an exquisitely refined dining experience. Their tapas are a creative and harmonious fusion of flavours and textures and their innovative and transformational approach to sushi will prove almost impossible to resist. 

Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clínic Tel. 93 444 4737 Rosselló 270 I Tel. 93 458 0710 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gràcia Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com

Doble ZerOO Born, Jaume Giralt 53 Tel. 93 315 1744 Tomoe by Doble ZerOO, Sant Delfí 11 Tel. 93 211 9869 (Take away) Doble ZerOO Maresme, Buenos Aires 22, El Masnou Tel. 93 555 8599 (Take away)

11/20/13 2:18:50 PM


FOOD & DRINK 39 Peruvian MoCHICA4EIXAMPLE E

AKASHI GALLErY4 EIXAMPLE E

This magnificent Peruvian restaurant specialising in fish and seafood is located in the heart of Barcelona, just a few streets away from Plaza España. The menu offers a delicious variety of plates for any time of the day, each prepared with authentic Peruvian ingredients, bringing the true taste of Peru across the Atlantic. Their famous Pisco Sour cocktails won’t keep you away either! 

AKASHI GALLERY is a teahouse and Japanese dining-room with a photo gallery located in the heart of Barcelona. You can enjoy top-notch Japanese tea from Kyoto Ippodo and excellent home-made Japanese dishes over wonderful photo and art exhibitions in an astonishing atmosphere. All kinds of soft drinks, Japanese alcohol and sweets are also available. Of course, you are welcome to stop by just to see the art exhibitions. 

Rosselló 197 I T. 93 125 0877 Tue-Thurs 6pm-12am, Fri 6pm-1am, Sat 1.30pm-1am, Closed Sun-Mon, www.akashigallery.com

Juice bar

Pizza SANo4SAntS

Mediterranean

Gran Vía de les Corts Catalanes 487 I Metro Rocafort exit Calabria I Bus lines 9, 50, 56 Tel. 93 325 7110 I rexamochicasl@gmail.com www.restaurantemochicabcn.es I Mon-Sun 12pm-12am

€1 Beer for Metropolitan reaDers

MESSIÉ PIZZA4GRÀCIA

Sano juice offers a healthy alternative choice with smoothies and juices, homemade bagels, paninis, wraps, tasty lunch menu for 10.45 and now brunch. Their food and smoothies are made to order with fresh ingredients, no extra sugar, offering the best quality. Sano Cuina (Sants) specialises in brunch and Sano Buenos Aires in take-away salads, wraps and drinks. Eat better. Feel better. 

Messié Pizza is the new place in Gràcia that strives to be cheap and cheerful. It’s the perfect venue to have a few drinks after going to the cinema or theatre, or simply for meeting up with friends. In this charming Gràcia spot you will have the pleasure of sampling a great pizza with a homemade thin and crunchy base, topped with fresh ingredients from the local market. Messié Pizza offers all of this at a good price and in a unique atmosphere decorated with style and great music. Home delivery is also available. 

Creu Coberta 50 | Metro Espanya | Tel. 93 327 8272 Buenos Aires 44 | Cerca de la Plaça Francesc Macià Tel. 93 217 8115

Torrent de l’Olla 65 I Tel. 93 218 9345 Mon-Fri 6pm-11.30pm, Sat-Sun 6pm-Midnight www.messiepizza.es I Metro Fontana / Diagonal

thai MAGNoLIA 4 BARRI GÒtIC

tHAI GrACIA4GRÀCIA Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 12 menú del día is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more. 

In the heart of the Gothic quarter, Magnolia offers exquisite signature cuisine from chef Gianni Fusco at affordable prices. With its warm and loungy interior, it is the place of choice at any time of the day. During the week, breakfast and lunch menus attract big crowds thanks to their great quality and reasonable prices. In the afternoon, clients can choose from a variety of tapas or enjoy mojitos for just 3.50.  Breakfast from 2.70, Lunch from 9. Dinner menu 17.95 (Sun-Thurs) 25 (Fri-Sat) Ciutat 5 | Metro Jaume I | 93 304 2376 | 691 504 942 noche@magnoliabarcelona.com | www.magnoliabarcelona.com | www.facebook.com/magnolia.rna Mon-Thurs 9am-1am, Fri 9am-3am, Sat 1pm-3am, Sun 1pm-1am

organic

Vietnamese AMALtEA4EIXAMPLE E

Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant, where a warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day 10.70, night and weekend menu 15.30.  Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.amalteaygovinda.com Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun

GoVINDA (VEGEtArIAN) 4BARRI GÒtIC

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. 

Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

Food & drink Dec 2013.indd 47

Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV

Main dish take away €5.95

LA VIEtNAMItA 4 GRÀCIA/BORn La Vietnamita is a Vietnamese street food-inspired restaurant in the heart of Gràcia. This month, they open a second restaurant in Born next to the Chocolate Museum and old market. They serve light and nutritious dishes such as traditional Pho soup, savoury rice noodles like Bun Bo, and a variation of fresh Vietnamese rolls and appetisers. All of their dishes have a vegetarian version and they aim to work with local or organic products and fresh ingredients while maintaining reasonable prices. Main dish take away 5.95.  Torrent de l’Olla 78 | Tel. 93 518 1803 Comercio 17 | www.lavietnamita.com

11/20/13 2:19:07 PM


40 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

HEALTH · BEAUTY

BUSINESS

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Scissors of London BRITISH HAIRDRESSER

HAIR CUT €15 + HOT SHAVE €25

BCN Cuts - BARBER SHOP Directly from Boston to Gràcia comes BCN Cuts Barber Shop to offer you time to relax surrounded in a welcoming environment. with a drink in hand and jazz music playing in the background, you can have a hair cut or try their hot lather shave the classic way. BCN Cuts is a traditional barber shop with a contemporary atmosphere. You will keep coming back for the excellent service.

Tim aspires to listen to your needs and suggests how they might be met in distinctive and exciting ways. Style is unique and Tim will craft you a look achieving a harmony of shape and style. Tim has been hairdressing for over 12 years, and has trained, taught and worked in London’s top salons including Toni & Guy and vidal Sassoon. Tim works to fit in with the modern pace of life and offers a one to one service around your needs.

Gran de Gràcia 223 T. 93 611 1813 bcncuts@gmail.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

M. 633 382 787 timbulmer@btinternet.com www.scissorsofldn.com

10% OFF

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE The vital Touch Massage clinic helps you relax, energise, re-balance and improve your health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - Enjoy a revitalising massage with homemade oils, while relaxing to soothing music. Makes you feel fantastic! - Helps relieve tension, reduce stress, detoxify your body and boost your self-esteem. -Central Barcelona location. English, Swedish and Spanish spoken.

M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

Beauty Planet Anthony Llobet English Hair Salon - HAIRDRESSER Don’t let your Spanish come between you and your hair. Anglo-Catalan Anthony Llobet has over 20 years of experience in hairstyling and a passion for excellent client service. Anthony leads a dedicated team of stylists who specialise in a variety of services, including Afro hair, extensions, straightening and make-up (and speak over 11 languages between them). The original retro interior and friendly staff create a very special atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy a stylish cut. Put your trust in Anthony and the team, who are strongly committed to providing you with outstanding service at affordable prices. Barceloneta, Almirall Churruca 8 T. 93 221 1612 / M. 619 224 695 Gràcia, Ros de Olano 19 T. 93 218 0449 / M. 692 371 307 Raval, Sant Pau 122 T. 93 441 3177 / M. 692 371 308 El Born, Carders 34 T.93 295 4871 / M. 692 371 404 Gòtic, Avinyó 34 T. 93 301 4513 / M. 692 371 405 www.anthonyllobet.com

MP 40-46 Dec 2013.indd 44

HAIR AND BEAUTY Leave behind your daily routine and prepare for a range of sensational treatments at Beauty Planet. They offer each client a completely customised service, including aesthetic advice from their experts. Beauty Planet hair and beauty in Barcelona has a team of hair professionals to ensure you receive the highest quality, comprehensive service.

Diputació 197, 08011 Barcelona T. 93 512 2360 info@beautyplanetbcn.com www.beautyplanetbcn.com

11/20/13 1:22:57 PM


BEAUTY · DENTISTS

Beauty Nail Concept MANICURE AND PEDICURE

A new concept in beauty treatments is now available in Barcelona. Facial and body treatments, massages, gel nails, porcelain nails, Shellac and O.P.I. manicures and pedicures, plus their classic Spa manicures and pedicures. Beauty Nail Concept offer the ultimate experience, combining highly-qualified technicians with exquisite care for their clients’ comfort and wellbeing.

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 41

PropDental - DENTAL CLINIC Clinicas Propdental · Specialists in same-day implants and teeth · Cost of a dental implant: 450 · Titanium root · Dental veneers without cutting the tooth · Orthodontic treatments · First visit free. Call 93 491 4914.

Aribau 126, 08036 T. 93 174 3988 www.beautynailconcept.com

Sants 151, 08028 T. 93 934 485 www.propdental.es

Dr. Alistair Gallagher -

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -

DENTIST

The British Dental Clinic has a patientfriendly philosophy that combines aesthetics, youthful appearances, and a commitment to total oral health. Conveniently located in Barcelona, they offer orthodontics including Fast Braces and Inman Aligner, implants, cosmetic dentistry, whitening and general family dentistry. Their talented, conscientious and friendly staff will help ensure that you comfortably receive the healthy and beautiful smile that you deserve. Diagonal 281 Metro: Sagrada Família (L5) Monumental (L2) T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 info@thebritishdentalclinic.com www.thebritishdentalclinic.com

DENTIST Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an English-speaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is an American Board-certified orthodontist. Dr Javier Sanz is an American Board-certified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

Pascual La Rocca - DENTIST

For all your dental needs, a team consisting of their first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

with 15 years of experience and academic excellence, Dr. Mónica and Dr. Andres Pascual La Rocca open the doors of this new dental centre which features the latest in dental technology and equipment, and a warm, friendly atmosphere. In an international environment, they strive to make their patients feel comfortable and cared for. English, Italian, Spanish, Catalan and Portuguese are spoken.

Rosselló 95, local, 08029 Metro: Hospital Clínic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

Vilamur 15, 08014 T. 93 119 1931 plr.odontologos@gmail.com www.plrodontologos.com

Dr. Boj - DENTIST Dr. Boj and his team provide specialised comprehensive pediatric dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Dr. Boj also lectures about all treatments related to these age groups, including laser dentistry.

Visit our online BUSINESS DIRECTORY www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

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42 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

DOCTOR · SPEECH THERAPY · PSYCHOTHERAPY

Doctor for Adults

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care for the English-speaking community in Barcelona with access to all medical specialties and tests. His practice includes mental health.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro: Les Corts (L3) M. 662 291 191 stevedoc1965@gmail.com www.googolmedicalcentre.com Open Mon-Sat

Bianca Kruk - THERAPIST

ILO - Speech Therapy

Bianca Kruk at Ganesha Healing is a certified therapist in: Naturopathy, Jin Shin Jyutsu, Ear Acupuncture and Quantum Kinesis. She is a member of the Asociación de Profesionales de las Terapias Naturales. Treats: Physical and emotional rebalancing, Pain and stress relief, anxiety, depression, Chronic and acute conditions, Nutritional advice, pregnancy discomforts. All ages welcome! To find out more visit the web or call Bianca directly. Dutch, English, German, Italian and Spanish spoken.

Their therapist Claire-Lise Goasguen graduated with 1st class honours from the Faculté de Médecine, in Paris. She works with patients of all ages, providing diagnostics, specialised treatments and personalised guidance to help with the following disorders: Dyslexia; Pronunciation or phonologic disorders; Dispraxia; Handwriting disorders; Logic and mathematics; Swallowing dysfunction; Attention and memory impairments; Afasia; Disexecutive syndrome; Demencias; Autism; Heminegligence and neurovisual disorders; Dysphonia.

T. 65 439 3629 ganeshahealing@gmail.com www.ganeshahealing.wix.com/engl

www.ilo-barcelona.com

T. 93 310 4949 M. 651 441 257 Gran Via 646, 5°2a Clinica Sarria, Manila 39

Nick Cross - PSYCHOLOGIST /

Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialising in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team works with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, and Catalan. The first consultation is free. Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

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10 years of experience in Speech Therapy

Jonathan Lane Hooker -

Psychotherapist

FREE CONSULTATION

Ilo-Barcelona

PSYCHOTHERAPIST

M. 644 193 825 ncross@copc.es

NEST - Network of English Speaking Therapists The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek. For detailed information, please visit their website. www.barcelonaNEST.com

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HEALTH · HOME · TRANSPORT · sCHOOLS

Krishinda Powers Duff Bsc Hons - Midwife

€15 OFF

Tania Spearman -

acupuncture

Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! Tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a 15 discount on first appointments with this voucher. Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to infertility and more. Call now to make your appointment or to see if acupuncture is right for you. Tania is a UK university trained acupuncturist with her own clinic in the centre of Barcelona. English, Spanish and German spoken.

Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation services. She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. Midwife means ‘to be with woman’. Marenostrum Centre de Salut familiar

Fontanella 16 Principal, 08010 M. 665 143 437 krishinda@gmail.com

Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis 08008 M. 644 322 161 info@taniaspearman.com www.taniaspearman.com

Pharmacy Serra Mandri -

Bcn Windows home improvements

CHEMIST

If your flat is noisy or you suffer from cold drafts then BCN Windows can help. They can double glaze your traditional wooden windows and doors without changing the way they look. Their unique system is both cost effective and attractive. Have a look at their website for more information; it even shows you how to price your own windows. Call Michael on 619 908 642 and quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free quote.

The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service. Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

Fifty Soluciones CLEANING SERVICES

· Cleaning and domestic services. · For companies and private homes. · Over 10 years of experience. · Licensed and insured. · Competitive prices . · Excellent service. · All kinds of cleaning jobs.

Travessera de Gracia 50, 08021 Tel. 93 200 3075 Fax. 93 100 1435 info@fiftysoluciones.es www.fiftysoluciones.es

M. 619 908 642 www.barcelonaflat.co.uk

10% OFF

Mondorent - RENTAL MONDORENT is the leader in motorcycles and scooter rentals in Barcelona. With over 500 vehicles distributed throughout Barcelona and the Balearic Islands, they offer a fun, new way to see the city. You can rent a scooter, a motorcycle, a quad or a bike. And don’t miss out on their newest offer, the Renault Twizy electric cars. It’s never been more fun and easy to experience the city like a native. Be Free! Rent a Scooter! Passeig Joan de Borbó 80-84 Passeig de Colón 24 T. 93 295 3268 info@mondorent.com www.mondorent.com

Coral - spanish teacher

BCN L.I.P. LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Reach a Spanish level that best fits your time, interests and needs! Try Coral’s personalised courses using interesting and effective methods that make learning easy. She will come to your home or business and provide the material. All levels; private or small groups (up to 3). 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35. If you need classes via SKYPE, she can also offer online lessons. She is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher.

BCN L.I.P. Languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.

M. 676 249 744 coral@coralprada.com

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY 43

T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

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44 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

BUSINESS SERVICES

Michaela Xydi -

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

PHOTOGRAPHY

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

Are you are looking for photographic services for portfolios, books, events and advertisements with economical prices and outstanding results? Then contact Michaela Xydi now to discuss what you would like to create. Michaela is an artist. She has a wealth of experience in both photography and design, which is reflected in her skillful eye for detail and the elegant style of her work.

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

M. 600 60 40 22 xmikela86@gmail.com www.michaelaxydiphotography.com

BeVoip - Voip telephony provider

Graham Eisner -

Low-cost calls worldwide

Cheaper than skype

Fully managed 24 hour service

Call centre services

Per second billing

PBX installations

Receive calls on PC, mobile, landline, tablet

BUSINESS CONSULTANT

BUSINESS CONSULTANT - EISNER CONSULTING IN JUST ONE SESSION INCREASE SALES BY 20% YOU DECIDE WHAT YOU PAY STANDARD COST €150

T. 93 220 1764 info@bevoip.com www.bevoip.com

With 25 years senior corporate experience and 13 years business coaching, Graham Eisner will help you think laterally and find actionable ways to increase sales by 20 percent in just one session. A 75-minute session usually costs €150. However, you can decide how much to pay depending on how much you achieve from the session. Visit the website below to find out more about Graham’s experience and how the session works .

www.entrepreneurcoach.eu graham@eisner-consulting.com

Spain Accounting -

Tax AND Accounting services

Qualified UK accountant with 25 years’ experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service

Call David Cook 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

Víctor Sánchez Vaqué -

Mrs.Q design studio - GRAPHIC DESIGN

BUSINESS LAWYER

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services from branding to graphic design, web design, ceramics, photography and bespoke invitations. Whether you have a new concept in mind that you want to see brought to life or need assistance rebranding your company, contact Mrs.Q design studio. At Mrs.Q design studio they love to design creative, engaging brand identities that help their clients flourish. They will help you bring some of your personality to your brand and use their knowledge of colour, passion for typography and creative flair to create an identity that engages your customers. They specialise in bespoke wedding invitations, tailor-made to suit the style of your wedding. Match your wedding invitations with save the dates, menus, place cards and thank you cards to create a polished look. They are now offering wedding stationery packages.

M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com

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As a business lawyer and legal consultant, Víctor Sánchez Vaqué offers legal advice and assistance to foreign and local companies and individuals in contracting, licensing, negotiation, investment projects and other legal areas of business in different sectors.

Víctor Sánchez Vaqué

M. 616 233 333 vsanchez@icab.cat

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BUSINESS SERVICES

Sánchez Molina -

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 45 FREE REVIEW

LEGAL PRACTICE

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

Ibán Fernández Girón -

lawyer

The Spectrum IFA Group - INDEPENDENT FINANCIAL ADVICE

Ibán Fernández Girón offers legal advice in English to foreign persons and companies who live or work in Barcelona. His speciality is counselling startup companies.

Providing advice to the English Speaking International Community. Their team is here to help with: • Pensions/ Retirement Planning • Savings & Investments • Life Cover • Health Insurance • Currency Exchange • Mortgages • Tax Planning • Asset Management Why call them for advice? They are independent, regulated, qualified and very experienced, with offices in six European countries. Through their unique client centred approach, they will work together to build a strong, ongoing relationship that you can depend on for support and advice whenever you need it.

Bailèn 11, 08010 M. 679 252 653 ibanfernandez@icag.cat

Passeig de Gràcia 63, Principal 2A, 08008 T. 93 665 8596 barcelona@spectrum-ifa.com www.spectrum-ifa.com

Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE

BritSat - TELEVISION SERVICE

Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability throughout Catalunya for many years. Our professional team provides satellite television from across Europe, including Dutch, French, Italian and Russian, at unbeatable prices. Unmatched for quality materials, installation and after-sales service. We have solutions for loss of UK channels, with or without a dish. Please visit our new website for all the information regarding the changes. New IPTV packages including all UK freesat channels, Al Jazeera sports 1-10, and many more.

BritSat offer the best TV packages from the UK, Ireland and much of Europe, including Russia. They have been installing satellite TV in Catalunya for 15 years and have an excellent reputation for quality, reliability, price and aftersales service. * Sky cards with or without a UK address * All the latest Sky HD equipment * Sound systems and multi-screen viewing Freesat services will almost certainly be lost to this region of Spain by the middle of summer and BritSat have the solutions. * They supply and install all the latest internet-based TV systems * No internet? No problem, they are the official installers of the market leading TOOWAY Satellite internet system * Extensive channel list from the UK and Ireland.

For our personal, efficient and friendly service, call the specialists. Follow us on Facebook/Easisat and Twitter ‘@PaulDuval15’ New IPTV packages including all UK freesat channels, Al Jazeera sports 1-10, and many more. Book now for your free demo. T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

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M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

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46 DIRECTORY

SHOPPING For more shopping visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/shopping

BATEAU LUNE

GOGO Baby

Plaça Virreina 7, 08012 · T. 93 218 6907 · www.bateaulune.com · info@bateaulune.com www.facebook.com/bateaulune

Balmes 383, 08022 T. 93 527 5760 hola@gogobaby.es www.gogobaby.es www.facebook.com/gogobaby.com

Bateau Lune is a traditional toy shop for kids where you can find a large variety of traditional toys including; wooden bicycles, trains, also micro scooters, also kites and outdoor games and many more rare and original toys. Go visit them today and get ideas for special occasions such as birthday presents and Christmas gifts. Check out their free activities for children twice a month on the Virreina square in Gràcia!

At GOGO baby they embrace the spirit of joy. They believe in making your baby’s world magical, comfortable, and full of smiles. Discover developmental toys, comfty baby clothes, urban-friendly strollers and carriers, and a selection of English story books; everything is high quality, city proof, and reasonably priced. If you’re looking for that special gift or getting ready for little one’s arrival, they make shopping convenient, fun, and affordable.

EL MUNDO DE HAMACAS

Josep Anselm Clave 3 (Drassanes) · Mon-Sat 10.30am-2pm, 4pm-8pm · T. 93 317 5115 · www.mundodehamacas.es

Ever thought of spending your mid-day rest in a comfy, restful hammock, rather than on the old living room couch? You can find this friendly hammock heaven just 25m off La Rambla (close to the Columbus statue) in the historical centre of Ciutat Vella. El Auténtico Mundo de Hamacas offers high quality hammocks in different sizes and styles, suitable for all.

Sitges 7 · T. 93 676 2311 · www.facebook.com/Artshopbcn

Located close to Plaça Catalunya, the Artshop has a full range of artist supplies and a small family gallery. If you need a simple watercolour set or any other specialist items, they can be bought or ordered for you at the shop.

GREY STREET/SATAN’S COFFEE CORNER

CABOCLO HAND MADE SHOES

Peu de la Creu 25 · M. 600 334 639 www.facebook.com/GreyStreetBarcelona

Baixada de la Llibreteria 8 · T. 93 317 2929 www.caboclobrasil.com

A small corner where the best coffee products meet gifts and garments from all over the world, including many local designers. Located in the Raval, Grey Street and Satan’s Coffee Corner brings you a wide range of goodies from new and vintage clothing to stationery, ceramics, jewellery, teas and a number of coffee varieties. Plus Satan’s coffee corner offer 3-day coffee courses. You’re sure to find something you like!

Hand made by the best artisans from the north of Brazil, the Caboclo team defines themselves as an Eco & Social company. Each sandal and shoe is made with chrome free leather, and uses recycled tyres to form the sole. Visit them just steps from the city hall and look over their unique and elegant styles that compliment an easy going lifestyle. Don’t miss the sustainable decoration!

CALADAZUL

PARRUP

Torrent de l’Olla 62, 08000 · M. 617 021 527 · www.caladazul.com

Located in Gracia, this new shop has a huge range of products to help you cut down, be healthier or even stop smoking! With their products there is no tar, no arsenic, no carbon monoxide nor any of the other toxic substances found in tobacco. You can use it wherever you want, whenever you want, with the same satisfying feeling that tobacco gives you. Quote Metropolitan for a free trial and ask about special reader discounts and offers.

24 KILATES

Comerç 29 · T. 93 268 8437 · www.24-kts.com

Located in the Born shopping area, this exclusive streetwear store has become internationally renowned thanks to its exciting design collaborations with many famous brands like New Balance, Stussy, Reebok, Lacoste, Puma, Asics, Nike, Saucony, Adidas, New Era and more. Definitely worth a look.

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ARTSHOP

Banys Nous 20 · www.parrup.com www.facebook.com/ParrupBarcelona

PARRUP brings together the best from local designers, carefully selected unique pieces, limited edition products and finely crafted clothes, jewellery, art and furniture.Why PARRUP? Because they love talented people. Because they want to showcase what they can offer. Because they believe in the local economy and production transparency. Because they don’t believe in the ‘made in Asia’ business. Nothing more but nothing less.

MICROGESTIO

València 87/89 · T. 93 454 1001 · info@microgestio.es www.microgestio.com

Need help with your Mac? Want to buy an iPad? Microgestió supplies everything a Mac user needs, including service and repairs, classes on how to use different programs, useful tutorials, and the latest new products on the market. You can count on Microgestió for all of your Mac needs... and a friendly, professional service!

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DIRECTORY 47

JOBS To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS www.classiďŹ eds.barcelona-metropolitan.com For the latest jobs for English speakers in Barcelona, follow us on Twitter @WorkInBarcelona

Find everything you need here!

In our online directory of English-speaking businesses in Barcelona www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/directory

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48 DIRECTORY

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DIRECTORY 49

CLASSIFIEDS Hundreds more ads on our website www.barcelona-metropolitan.com For sale, for rent, personals, job vacancies, job search, classes and more. ROOMS FOR RENT Beautiful double room, central. Bright double room with very comfortable bed (135cm) & balcony in a two bedroom flat in a quiet pasaje in the heart of the Eixample close to all public transport. Renting from now until end of March to share with an easygoing, sporty, hardworking 40-something woman and two lovable cats. Ample living space, big kitchen & beautiful sunny patio/deck. €450/month with utilities & wifi included. For further information & photos, please send me an email. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Room to rent in Barceloneta Hello! Exterior room in Barceloneta to rent, located very close to the beach (available from December). The room is completely furnished and costs €330. Prices include telephone with national calls, internet-adsl, and all costs such as elecriticity, gas and water. Very close to the metro station Barceloneta, Bicing station next to the flat, 2 mins walk minutes to the beach. If interested, write to ks.leander@gmail.com or call at 622 524 526 (from 18:30). Room to rent in new house Hi, we are renting one room in our new house for €325 (+ 1 month deposit), looking for an open, clean and responsible person. The house is located in Santa Coloma and has 2 Metro stations close to the house (L1 and L9) and Food and Nutrition Torribera Campus. Contact us for more information. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Room for rent Furnished, sunny room for rent with double or single bed and french windows in 100sqm attic flat in Horta, sharing with couple. Flat is fully equipped and has a very large terrace with views of the mountains and Tibidabo. Flat is located in a nice quiet neighborhood but is an easy 5 minute walk to Carmel or Horta metros and shops. Rent is €350 per month inclusive of all bills and wifi. 2 week deposit and first months rent up front. Room is available immediately. Contacts: Mike and Florencia. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Room with a balcony, Barcelona Room with a balcony. 90sqm FLAT to share with one person. Looking for a non-smoker flatmate, no students, no couples, no pets. 15 sqm room with a balcony, a single bed, a desk. 10 min by subway to Rambles or Gràcia, quiet and green area in Barcelona-Sarrià. 375+ bills (wi-fi, gas, electricity) 693 726 111

main pages Dec 2013.indd 10

Looking for a flatmate Hey there, I’m Georgiana. I rent a spacious room, with high ceiling, located very close to the metro Barceloneta-L4. I am looking for a chill girl used to sharing places. The price is €450 with expenses included and the room is available starting 12 november. More about me here https://www.couchsurfing.org/profile. html?id=5HE4MJ5N5. Mail me for more details or to setup a visit! (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Looking for small apartment We are a 40-something English couple looking for a small studio apartment or shared flat within walking distance of Parc de la Ciutadella. Any ideas please email. We can view immediately. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). 3 bedrooms available, Vila Olímpica We have 3 bedrooms available in a great flat in Vila Olimpica, just 3 minutes walk from the University Pompeu Fabra. With a balcony, kitchen, 2 bathrooms and great living room. Nice, light apartment. 5th floor with lift. Fully furnished. Very close to buses and 5 minute walk to Metro Marina or train station Arco de Triomfo. 10 mins walk to the sea! Either for individuals or groups of friends. Please text Martin on (+34) 699 992 519 for more info or to arrange a viewing. Flat share Sitges Large, well appointed apartment with two double bedrooms to rent and share of large lounge, dining room, kitchen etc. Balcony with amazing views, pool, garden, parking, wi-fi, video entry, porter, etc. Email - pjoinspain@hotmail.com. St Just Desvern shared flat St Just Desvern nr Walden, tram and bus to Francesc Macia, in 2 floor attic dúplex with large terrace, two rooms and bathroom, share kitchen, living room, lift. On-street parking free €495 + utilities, wifi installed, really quiet area nr supermarket. Email me utbacon@tresnet.com APARTMENTS TO RENT Studio for rent Studio for rent, furnished. 40 square meters, silent. Kitchen: cooker, oven, refrigerator, cabinets. Living room of 20 square meters. Bedroom. Renovated bath, washer and dryer. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Yearly apartment rental in Poble Nou Beautiful, fully-furnished and stylish 2 bedroom, 2 bathroom flat in POBLE NOU, available for 1 YEAR. 900 euros per month). Located on the third floor with a lift in a new and modern

building with a fully equipped kitchen including dishwasher and washing machine. The large lounge also has a sunny terrace and free wifi and freeview tv and dvd. There are 2 bathrooms and 2 bedrooms. The master bedroom has one double bed. The second bedroom has 2 single beds. There is also central heating tnd air conditioning throughout the apartment. The Poble Nou metro is 2 mins walk away from the apartment and 10 mins away from the beach. Please contact ellie. ruddock@lineone.net.

or Poble Nou during day. €500. jyomaku@gmail.com

Nice flat near Pl. España Perfect location; less than 5 minutes walking to Plaza España and Rocafort L1 metro and many bus lines; less than 10 minutes walking to Sants Railway Station. Many supermarkets around, a public park, a public library and a gym in less than 4 minutes. Easy walking everywhere! Fifth floor with elevator. Sunny. Kitchen, fully equipped with vitroceramic hob, oven-microwave, dishwasher, fridge, washing machine with dryer, etc.. One bathroom and another toilet with shower. One big living room with TV. One bedroom with a double bed, and another bedroom for double/ twin bed, both with big wardrobes. Heating and air conditioning. Balcony. Electricity and water at your charge, community expenses included. 1300€/ month. Contact mail:bcn423@gmail. com

British bulldog British businessman currently based in Barcelona seeks English speaking attractive Spanish/South American/ Central European Woman 33 - 43 for companionship and more. Serious and successful applicant will be lead into a change of life and taught financial independence with her own online business. Eventual plans are to return to a Mallorcan Finca during early 2014. Don’t delay click today! (Contact via our online Classifieds section).

Attic in Raval Bright, airy attic flat (with lift) available in the heart of north Raval, five minutes walk from MACBA and Rambla de Raval. 90m2. Two double bedrooms both opening on to small terrace overlooking a quiet patio de manzanas. Recently renovated kitchen and bathroom. 25m2 living room with 2 small balconies giving on to quiet side street. Gas-fired heating. Unfurnished. €900 / month. Call Mark: 605 329 272 FOR SALE IKEA loft frame for sale In Sitges - selling Ikea loft bed frame with mattress €120, travel cot with mattress €30, activity center €60, security gates for babies €10/each, Ikea baby high chair €10, baby bath €5, maxi cosy seat €10 (see photos for all). (Contact via our online Classifieds section). iPad 3 64Gb WiFi+3G+case Ipad 3 in great condition. Its the 64gb version with wifi and 3G. Comes with a Sena case in excellent condition. In great condition and had screen protection since I bought it. Comes with cable but I dont have original box anymore. Pick up in Gracia in evening

Sofa bed and double bed Due to relocation I have a sofa bed and double bed with mattress for sale. Sofa bed: double and grey. Very comfortable. Hardly used. €100, RRP €180 Double Bed: Metal and grey, with thick mattress. Hardly used. €120 RRP €200+ SEEKING

Grown up group An idea for English speaking couples over 50, with a story to tell. Making friends in a foreign city like Barcelona can be difficult.Let´s do something about it: CAN YOU cook,sing,make things play bridge............? DO YOU like wine tasting,social gatherings,cinema.............? There must be many who would like to meet others around their age,share a yarn and a glass. If you think it´s worth finding out more,phone/text John Ward 619 775 969 Who knows? My Spanish for your English Hello, I am 35, a guy from Barcelona. I need to improve my English in exchange for my Spanish. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). WANTED Wanted 4-bed flat in Born Midwife seeks 4 bed flat in El Born for her and her 3 children. In good condition and no more than €800 a month. I am happy to sublet. (Contact via our online Classifieds section). Wanted - guitar player I’m a singer/songwriter from London, but currently Barcelona-based. I’m looking for a proficient guitar player to accompany acoustic songs. Open to a collaboration, with a view to a performance at the end of November in a small venue. The music is acoustic – just voice and guitar / voice and keyboard. Anyone interested please email: info@mariannenoble.com. Thankyou! :–) (Contact via our online Classifieds section).

11/20/13 2:08:25 PM


50 BACK PAGE

FINAL WORDS

A selection of quotes, facts and figures about Barcelona

The Feria de Santa Llùcia was first celebrated here in 1786.

The ice rink set up in Plaça Catalunya for the past few years is 1,400m2, making it the largest temporary rink in Europe.

If you’re planning to get a lottery ticket for El Gordo, bear in mind that in the last 20 years, a number between 40.000 and 49.000 has been the big winner seven times. 15.640 and 20.297 are the only numbers to twice bring fortune to their holders, while Spaniards tend to avoid numbers that are ‘low’, ie. those starting with 00.

“Durar de Nadal a Sant Esteve”–this Catalan refrain is used to describe something that is very brief; it literally translates as “to last from Christmas Day to Boxing Day”.

Neules are the thin wafers traditionally eaten in Catalunya over the Christmas period—the name apparently comes from the Latin word nebla, meaning fog, due to their light texture. If you call someone a neula, it means they’re a bit of a twit.

By Ben Rowdon

scoop

“Comerse los turrones”—this Spanish phrase refers to people who manage to achieve something in the Christmas season. It is often used to describe managers of football teams, whose jobs were on the line due to poor results but who’ve saved their position, probably by the skin of their teeth. It has also recently been used by a politician in prison who reckons he’ll be out in time to eat his turrones at home this year.

contributors

ELEANOR BODMAN Eleanor arrived here last year to work as an English teacher in a primary school. Originally planning to stay for only a year, she decided to return after the summer, having fallen in love with the city, its people and the Mediterranean way of life. Barcelona has given her many amazing opportunities and a new perspective. A lover of history, literature and the arts, Barcelona never ceases to be beautiful or interesting to her. Working at Metropolitan has allowed Eleanor to find out even more about the city and what it has to offer.

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TORI SPARKS

PRITHIKA NAIR TULLY

Tori is a professional musician living in Barcelona. She and her band have released four albums, recorded in Nashville, and are working on the fifth, which will be the first to recorded here in Barcelona. Tori has been writing for Metropolitan for a year and a half, mostly on topics dealing with society, culture, art and music. She enjoys working with Metropolitan because it gets her head out of ‘touring mode’, and allows her the opportunity to meet fascinating people she might otherwise never come across.

Prithika grew up in India before moving to Scotland and finally finding her way to Barcelona. In the last three years here she has worked the whole rainbow of expat jobs, from Fish&Chip Shop waitress to call centre employee, English teacher and freelance writer. She fell in love with all the intricate, interwoven worlds that make up Barcelona and doesn’t see an end to this love affair just yet. Watching and writing about the people of this city is what she finds most enjoyable in her spare time.

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11/21/13 11:59:22 AM

Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 203  

I’m happy that December is the last month I will work on—it is one of my favourites of the year, even if it does mean getting into the Chris...

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