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October 2012 Nยบ 189 Free

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Features 14 20 24

Raval renaissance US elections as seen from Barcelona


Sanctuary for felines

Regulars 06 07 08 11 13 19 22 28 58

On our web An inside look What’s new Fact-checker: El Clásico Fashion: DIY style


Interview: Maria Palomares Arenas Photo collage: Art Ideas: Culture, Gastronomy, Escape the city... Back page

Directories 41 47 55

Food & Drink Business Jobs

From the Senior Editor: The future of Catalunya’s sovereignty continues to make headlines here and abroad, and early Generalitat elections or a referendum on the subject are both under discussion. While we haven’t been able to give space to this significant issue in this edition, we’d like to hear from you regarding what you want to know about the topic—write and tell us, and we’ll do our best to cover the story both here and on our website. Turing to this month’s magazine, we look at one of the major political events of the year, the US presidential elections, from a Barcelona perspective, and cast an eye over two features of the Raval neighbourhood— first, its transition from barrio chino to hip hangout and second, its unique refuge for abandoned cats. Elsewhere, we look at this month’s big sporting event, El Clásico, revel in photos of Barcelona art and share a recipe for a delicious warming autumn stew. Hannah Pennell


Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Esther Jones Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Acting Editor Lynn Baiori Art Director Aisling Callinan Account Executives Richard Cardwell and Maria Galindo Financial Manager Andrea Moreno Editorial Assistants Samantha Alzuria, Rupert Crookenden and Emily Tarbuck Sales Assistant George Hawken Sales Administrator Clara Davies Design Assistants Markus Kreutzer and Ieva Sliziute Contributors Lynn Baiori, Jonathan Bennett, Roger de Flower, Louise Johnson, Will Shank, Tori Sparks, Tara Stevens and Nicola Thornton Photographers Richard Owens and Lee Woolcock Cover illustration Elena Vera Solodovnikova Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial Office: Ciutat 7 2º 2ª-4ª, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Advertising: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com. General enquiries: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Find your nearest distribution point on www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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Spacious family home of 550m2 – Valldoreix

75m2 penthouse with a 60m2 terrace – Eixample

200m2 penthouse with 45m2 terrace – Francesc Macià Square

580m2 family house – Sant Cugat del Vallés

Two-storey house with five bedrooms and three bathrooms. Plot of 700m2 with pool, veranda and BBQ area plus large garage. Unfurnished. Price: €3.500 Ref. L0403ba

Excellent central location in Modernista building. Two bedrooms and one bathroom. Very bright and private apartment.Unfurnished. Price: €1.600 Ref. L0444ba

Large and spacious living-room, four bedrooms and three bathrooms. Great views over Avinguda Diagonal. Two parking spaces. Price: €2.500 Ref. L0457ba

Three floors, four bedrooms and four bathrooms. Garage for four cars. Beautiful large garden of 1.400m2 with pool. Price: €4.500 Ref. L0191ba

Charming 150m2 flat – Eixample

Charming 100m2 apartment – Eixample

Brand new 170m2 apartment – Turó Park.

Brand new designer house of 395m2 – Ciudad Diagonal

Recently renovated flat in classical building, with old tiled floor and high ceilings. Four double bedrooms and two bathrooms. Unfurnished. Price: €1.500 Ref. L0469ba

Bright three-bedroom apartment in excellent central location. Furnished. Price: €1.600 Ref. L0431ba

Living-dining room with views of the park, four bedrooms, three bathrooms. Good location. Unfurnished. Price: €3.300 Ref. L0456ba

In exclusive residential area, modern architecture, five bedrooms + service area, 500m2 garden and pool. Four parking spaces. Furnished. Price: €6.000 Ref. L0423ba


Brand new flats in classical building – Passeig de Gràcia

Brand new flat – Barceloneta seafront

93m2 loft with lovely 35m2 terrace – Francesc Macià

Exclusive apartments in newly remodeled building dating from the 19th century with great views of the city. From one to three bedrooms. Luxury finishings. Fully equipped kitchen. Price: from €575.000 Ref. V1314ba

Top floor flat of 110m2 with two bedrooms. Lots of light. Perfect condition. Price: €470.000 Ref. V1312ba

Open space with living/dining area, open kitchen, master bedroom with en-suite, office space with shower room. Price: €500.000 Ref. V0359ba

Please call for further properties 93 241 30 82 Avda. Diagonal, 433 3º 2ª - 08036 Barcelona www.johntaylorspain.com

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on our web


TICKET GIVEAWAY Musical man of the moment Richard Hawley comes to Barcelona this month and we have a double pass to his Apolo concert on October 26th up for grabs. Get all the info about the competition at: www.barcelonametropolitan.com/richardhawley

Looking into the future Who doesn’t want to understand more about the way the economy and environment are heading? Of course, predicting the future is never straightforward, but this gathering on October 19th and 20th brings together some very bright people (including the man who “used to be the next president of the US”, Al Gore) to give us their take on what might happen to these two crucial aspects of our modern world, and gives attendees the chance to question them or raise their own concerns. If you’re interested in going, you’re particularly in luck, because Metropolitan readers can enjoy a 10 percent discount off the event fee of €350 (+VAT). Get details of this deal, at www.barcelonametropolitan.com/futureeconomy

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Anyone with young children knows about the difficulties that can arise when trying to keep them entertained with meaningful activities, rather than just plonking them in front of the tv or iPad. As such, initiatives such as The Drama Factory—created by British actress Sophie Heydel—are more than welcome to many. This group offers theatre classes to youngsters between the ages of six and 14, culminating in an end-of-term show that lets family and friends enjoy their hard work. The format has proven popular with both native speakers and English learners, so it’s perhaps no surprise that this year The Drama Factory has reached its first decade and is still going strong. Read our interview with Sophie, where she tells us about how she came up with the original idea for the classes, some of her favourite memories and what she thinks about Englishlangauage theatre in Barcelona. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/dramafactory

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An inside look

Illustrator Elena Vera Solodovnikova www.elenaverasolodovnikova.com I was born in Riga, Latvia. Before moving to Barcelona, I studied painting at the University of the Arts in London. Apart from painting, I love travelling, so I keep developing my studies at art schools in other cities. Inspiration for my painting comes from my interest in the spheres of human consciousness and perception. Throughout my works, I want to show different conditions of consciousness and states of mind, such as expectation, anxiety, euphoria, etc. Now, while I’m living in Barcelona, I’m painting, travelling, working and enjoying my life. In the future, I plan to discover the Caribbean, buy a Pomeranian dog and study film directing. Barcelona is the city with the most bars in the world. I never miss meeting my friends on a nice terrace in summer. I always avoid public transport; I prefer to walk or take a taxi. A view: all of Barcelona as seen from the terrace of Mirablau [Tibidabo] with my favourite drink. A building: definitely Casa Batlló and Casa Evarist Arnus. An inspiration: all the different dogs you find in Barcelona. A place to go with friends: Nuba is a great place to meet with your friends and have some drinks. On my to-do list: CosmoCaixa and the Dalí Museum. About the cover: It’s my vision of El Raval, one of the most emblematic neighbourhoods of Barcelona, with its big mixture of nationalities, customs and traditions.

Interested in featuring your photographs or illustrations in our magazine? Email us at design@barcelona-metropolitan.com

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THEY CAN COOK! Have you caught the cooking bug yet? With budding ‘masterchefs’ and ‘great bakers’ seemingly all over the place, it’s hard to resist the pull of the food processor, bain marie and chocolate ganache. But the attractions of the kitchen don’t come naturally to us all, perhaps due to a lack of experience or interest from when we were younger. So, cooking classes for children, such as those starting in central Barcelona this month by The Kangaroo Kitchen, could well be a way to bring a whole new generation of chefs safely and enthusiastically to the stove. Led by Australians Lauren Cahill and Bree Gilmore, both experienced cooks and English teachers for all ages, the classes are open to native speakers and English learners alike, provided they’re aged between five and 14. Lauren and Bree have been running groups in Santa Perpetua de Mogoda since May, and as well as their regular topics have created a special feature entitled ‘Around the World’, through which they explore the cuisine, geography, animals and people of different countries. So, kids, roll up your sleeves: ready, steady, cook. www.thekangarookitchen.com

Electric dreams GoCars need no introduction. We may be going out on a limb here, but it is surely impossible for anyone to be in Barcelona for more than a day or so and not see the low orange ‘cars’ carrying courageous tourists through the crowded city streets, as they explore the sights from a different angle than that provided by the more traditional tourist buses and walking tours. You may even have considered trying one out yourself, but, being familiar with the somewhat treacherous Barcelona approach to driving, were reluctant to get on board. Well, good news has arrived from GoCar central with the announcement that they are switching some of their fleet to the Renault Twizy, a small electric car that will offer the same features as the original GoCars (such as the inbuilt talking guide) but have a healthier relationship with the environment and arguably provide a greater feeling of security for those inside the vehicle. www.gocarbarcelona.com

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More room upstairs We’ve all been there. Relatives or friends come to town and we really don’t want to go to the Sagrada Família or Museu Picasso again, but a sense of responsibility means we feel obliged to at least make some suggestions about things they may want to do while visiting Barcelona. Anyone whose aunts or old school-mates come willing to spend a bit and are fans of good cooking is in luck, then, with the launch here in July of the Gourmet Bus, an initiative of Turisme de Barcelona and the Grupo Julià coach company. A cut above the brightly-coloured tourist buses, which plough incessantly around the centre of town, the Gourmet Bus has been painted an elegant shade of dark grey, runs just twice a day and only carries one deck of clients (the upper one, clearly.) It has been kitted out to resemble (as best a pimped-up coach can) a high-class restaurant, with additional tourist-friendly features such as iPads and images from cameras fitted at the front and back of the bus. The tour around the main city sights lasts two hours, after which the coach parks for an hour so that those on board can enjoy a tasting menu created by Carles Gaig (pictured below), the Michelin-starred chef behind the popular if pricey Catalan eatery, Fonda Gaig. The menu will feature traditional favourites given a new twist, and includes dessert and drinks. At €95, this is not the cheapest option for seeing Barcelona, but is certainly a novel one that will well suit a certain kind of visitor (or even resident). www.gourmetbus.com

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Photo: courtesy FC Barcelona

• Real Madrid and FC Barcelona first battled it out as part of the Copa de la Coronación in 1902, a tournament held to celebrate the crowning of the new king, Alfonso XIII. Barcelona, which had only been in existence for a couple of years, were the victors of that first meeting. The two Spanish footballing gargantuas were joined by three other clubs in the Copa, namely Club Español de Foot-Ball, New Foot-Ball de Madrid and Club Bizcaya (with Bizcaya emerging as the eventual champions). • Both Madrid and Barça were, to an extent, political pawns during the autocratic reign of Franco. The dictator invested a lot of time and energy in promoting Real Madrid, as he wanted the strength of the capital’s biggest football club to promulgate a message of the greatness of Spain. Conversely, FC Barcelona served as a symbol of the Catalan struggle against Franco’s fascist regime.

QUICK FACTS • Prior to Real Madrid’s August victory against Barça at the Bernabéu (in the return leg of the Spanish Super Cup), they had failed to win their last seven home meetings with their great rivals. • Cristiano Ronaldo cost Real Madrid nearly as much (€93.8 million) as the whole of Barcelona’s starting XI in the last Clásico combined (€94.5 million). • Lionel Messi’s goal tally against Real Madrid currently stands at 15, meaning he is now joint second all-time top scorer in Clásico matches (with Raul) and only three goals behind Madrid legend Alfredo di Stefano.

iN NUMBERS • Aside from the UEFA Champions League final, Clásicos are the most watched football matches in the world with hundreds of millions of people tuning in. • The Camp Nou has a capacity of 99, 354 people making it the largest stadium in Europe and the 11th largest in the world. The Bernabéu has a capacity of (only!) 85, 454.

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HOW THEY WEIGH UP • Real Madrid leads the way in competitive headto-head victories (La Liga, Copa del Rey, League Cup, Spanish Super Cup and UEFA Champions League), although by the tightest of margins, nudging ahead of Barcelona with a total of 88 victories to the Catalan club’s 87. • There is disagreement in some quarters about these figures, however. For instance, the Real Federación Española de Fútbol does not recognise the 1902 Copa de la Coronación as an ‘official tournament’ and Barcelona’s victory is not therefore included in the offically compiled Clásico statistics. • The largest margin of defeat was suffered by Barcelona in 1943—they were comprehensively beaten 11-1 (with legendary Spanish striker Barinaga Alberdi scoring four goals for Real Madrid). That being said, Barcelona had been a goal up at half time and allegedly only conceded 11 goals after Franco’s secret police stormed their changing room.


number of goals that have been scored in El Clásico matches (according to official records).

• Twenty-one players have moved from FC Barcelona to Real Madrid but only nine have made the move from Real Madrid to Barcelona. • Only one player from Real Madrid’s current starting XI is a product of its youth academy (Iker Casillas). In contrast, Barcelona has eight regular players who have emerged from La Masia (Victor Valdés, Carles Puyol, Gerard Piqué, Sergio Busquets, Xavi Hernández, Andrés Iniesta, Pedro Rodríguez and Lionel Messi).

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last year’s wardrobe

Breathe new life into old clothes with a few simple and inexpensive modifications. Text and photos by Samantha Alzuria

Clockwise from top: Brown wool jacket, before the alterations; Merceria Santa Ana’s extensive selection of buttons; the same jacket, with its new features.

Autumn is in full swing, so it’s flip-flops away and wool cardies out. Unfortunately, with the economy the way it is, we can’t all go out and buy the latest Max Mara coat or one of Burberry Prorsum’s military style trenches. Nor would we all spend that kind of money on clothes even if we had it. But money woes needn’t take the fun out of fashion. Clothes rationing in Forties’ Britain sparked the ‘Make Do and Mend’ initiative, bringing DIY fashion to the masses. Now, with the rising popularity of social media sites such as image-led Pinterest, together with old favourites including YouTube and Blogger, it’s become all too easy to find inspiration, tips and how-tos from the best DIY-ers on the internet. While many of us are turning to the web for ideas, haberdasheries across Barcelona are an Aladdin’s cave for anyone looking for the actual materials to update, or upcycle, last year’s winter wardrobe. My own such mission began as I sifted through old winter clothes, confident I’d find at least an armful of items that could be salvaged for my very own AW 2012/2013 collection. In the end, staring down at the only rescued garment, an oversized, chocolate-brown wool and viscose mix jacket, fashioned to weakly resemble last year’s military trend, ‘disappointed’ barely summed up my feelings. But I set about finding new inspiration and, naturally, turned to magazines, cups of sweet tea and Pinterest. And there it was, a community of DIY fashionistas, masters of upcycling, serial tie-dyers... you get the idea. Armed with nothing more than a basic sewing box, I was set on making this jacket a key piece going into the winter season. First on the list was a trip to the haberdashery. But which one? By far the most well-know haberdashery here is the two-storey Merceria Santa Ana, founded in 1935. Located in Portal de l’Àngel, Merceria Santa Ana houses more buttons than you could ever imagine existed, while the friendly staff will help you search through the

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extensive stock to find the perfect ones. Although buttons don’t seem like the most exciting alteration you can make to a coat or jacket, the effects are not to be brushed off. Replacing my eight, bog-standard brown buttons—the same colour as the fabric—with metallic ones for just €8.80 was the collagen injection it needed, bringing it a small step closer to the Burberry-inspired 2012 military look. Appliqué and embellishment is another hot trend this season and one the high street has been quick to filter down. It is also relatively easy to achieve on a budget. Planas y Linares on Muntaner may just be the best place to go, whether you’re going for simple detail or the baroque effect. Prices for individual pieces, from metal brooches and trinkets to elaborate beaded and lace designs range from €1 to over €4 each. Ribbons and strips of fabric of all sorts are also in abundance here, so unless you have something very specific in mind, this isn’t the ideal place for a quick dash in and out. I left Planas y Linares after half an hour with a one-metre strip of heavily beaded light brown and gold material, which, despite its intricacy, cost just €6. With images of collections from Prada, Stella McCartney and Diane von Fürstenberg buzzing around my head as I walked back towards the metro station, I ran my fingers over the wooden beads, wondering if I would be able to pull this off. But several stitches and pierced fingertips later, my jacket was complete. It’s not quite Stella but for €14.80, it’s not half bad. MORE INFO Merceria Santa Ana—Portal de l’Àngel 26. Tel. 93 302 0948 www.merceriasantaana.com Planas y Linares—Muntaner 155. Tel. 93 321 8312 www.merceriasbarcelona.com

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Raval renaissance

Once regarded as one of Barcelona’s least appealing neighbourhoods, the Raval is in the midst of transition. By Tori Sparks. Photos by Richard Owens


he Raval. Two words that rarely fail to provoke a reaction. Some eyes light up with the excitement of a fiestero: “There’s this bar that I love on Sant Pau, last weekend it was crazy…” Or the nose wrinkles in disgust: “Why do all you foreign people want to live in neighbourhoods like that?” Or, perhaps, the mouth breaks into an ironic grin, though not without affection: “I used to live in the Raval, it’s not that bad.” One of the oldest areas in Barcelona is also one of the most controversial. Surrounded by trendier, prettier, richer, more beachy and touristy neighbourhoods, the Raval has long played the role of black sheep in the family—you know, the one that refuses to clean itself up, get a job and a haircut, and move out of mum’s place. Formerly the barrio chino of pirates and prostitutes, it was considered to be a scary part of Barcelona for a significant part of the city’s history. Some would argue that it remains so to this day—scary, that is, as well as populated by prostitutes, and possibly even the occasional pirate—

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but the Raval is slowly experiencing a renaissance. It’s becoming a cool place to live and work and hang out. Street by street, corner by corner—one could even say bar by bar—changes are occurring before our eyes. The ‘renaissance’ per se has been slowly picking up steam over the last couple of decades, but it is the past several years that the changes have become rapid. Let’s start with the elephant(s) in the room: the well-established CCCB and MACBA museums have served as epicentres for the wave of cool little terrace cafes and alternative shops that have popped up around them. Opened in 1995, the MACBA initially created controversy, as it didn’t actually have a collection of art when the building itself was commissioned, but over time the two neighbouring sites have become cornerstones of the city’s cultural life. They sponsor everything from jazz to punk to traditional Pakistani music concerts in their outdoor spaces, while multimedia projects and films are shown inside; and nobody seems to mind that the MACBA ramp has been converted into an unofficial skate park.

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Flash forward a decade or so, and the Filmoteca de Catalunya is the most obvious new kid on the block. The squalid empty plaça abutting Carrer Sant Pau resembled a war zone while construction was going on from 2007 until last year. Now, in the same spot, there sits a clean, sparkly, post-modern glass building that houses a trendy little bookshop, temporary and permanent exhibitions on Spanish and Catalan film-makers and, of course, three salas that show independent and art films. Families, couples on dates and locals of every stripe can choose between Almodovar and Fritz Lang, French film festival favourites and black-and-white American crime flicks from the Fifties. But these are just the most obvious examples of a neighbourhood in transition. Look closer and you’ll notice the smaller changes and renovations that are popping up all over. From art to theatre, music to eating out and drinking, you’ll find a whole host of places that are bringing a new vibe to the Raval. Art is a good example. There are brand-new places like the Blow Gallery, a multimedia art collective that opened last December, taking over an empty space on Sant Rafael. It supports local photographers including Vicky Garcia and Christian Maur, and visual artists such as Manuela Torres Garcia while also bringing in electronica musicians from all over Europe to perform, such as Eastern European

told me. “We just wandered down this side street because it looked kind of weird and interesting, and ended up seeing a play at Llantiol. It was really fun. I never would have thought there was so much here. When I came to Barcelona as a student a long time ago, I remember we used to kind of avoid this part of the city. Not anymore, obviously.” Nightlife is a big part of the Raval’s renovation. It’s nothing new that Raval is known for its movimiento but what is changing are the kinds of bars, restaurants and live music venues that are coming into the area. The young and the beautiful party at the rooftop bar in the Hotel Barceló Raval, which is an obvious example of the ‘new’ face of the neighbourhood. The cocktails on the manicured rooftop terrace are expensive, but what you’re really paying for is the fantastic 360-degree view of the city. At the other aesthetical extreme is tiny Bar Aurora on, fittingly, Carrer Aurora. We wandered in on a Wednesday night, and ended up hanging out with the bar’s loquacious and very sharp dueña, Claudia. Nothing special from the outside, the inside is a wild mix of leftover discoteca décor that is pure Raval: handmade metal tables and fibreglass benches, a rainbow-coloured illuminated staircase, haphazard art and photos festooning the walls, but the place is barely

Photos (L-R): the newly-opened Blow Gallery; Madame Jasmine’s café retains many original features; craft beer on tap at Ese Efe; enjoy tapas at Suculent

techno stars Nastia and Hector, and Spanish musician and producer Alberto Pascual. And there are venues such as Miscelanea, another art space just off Nou de la Rambla on Carrer Guardia. It’s been around for longer, since 2004, but despite being physically tucked away from view has grown in popularity as the barrio has become increasingly popular with hipster artists. The local theatre scene has also been renovating itself. The Teatre del Raval, located in a renovated church on Sant Antoni Abat, has been attracting a more diverse audience as it tries to adapt to changing times, putting on everything from Catalan musicals about the Raval’s dark past (La Vampira del Raval) to Monty Python’s Flying Circus. The tiny Café Teatre Llantiol on Riereta isn’t new, but again, the place has benefitted from the fresh blood (tourists and locals alike) that filters in these days to check out the latest nearby restaurants and bars. “My friends and I were having drinks at a place called Ambar, which wasn’t here last time I visited,” American tourist Peter Durran

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big enough to house a dozen people. “The bar reflects the diversity of the neighbourhood,” said Claudia. “I opened the bar here eight years ago, because the area [was] starting to become a cool part of town to hang out but still is very authentic Barcelona…sort of like the Gothic quarter was a long time ago, before it turned into Disney World. You get all kinds of people coming in here, especially in the last few years as the neighbourhood has gotten a bit safer. It’s the people who make this place special.” Jordi Perez is originally from Barcelona, but has lived in the US, Cuba and the Canary Islands. He works for a market research company on Passeig de Gràcia, but is raising his two daughters in the same apartment that he has had in the Raval for over 15 years. He loves the neighbourhood and likes the changes that are taking place. “Fifteen or 20 years ago, no one from here even wanted to hang out in the Raval, much less live here. But around that time, some friends and I all decided that we wanted to relocate, in order to help change the neighbourhood for the better. We figured that if there were inter-


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ested people living there, we could be part of an exciting period of growth and transformation. Now a lot of people have moved on to other neighbourhoods—I suppose they felt the neighbourhood didn’t change quickly enough—but I stayed. I like the mix of Spanish people, Pakistanis, Indians, South Americans, Catalans, Europeans from all over, students, musicians…That’s what makes it an interesting area. And it’s safer than people think. Sure there might be a party atmosphere, sure the streets might be in need of some renovation—but, for example, the local people are always looking out for the kids of the neighbourhood. One time my younger daughter ran off when we were sitting in a restaurant, and both the waiters inside and people outside instantly took off after her to make sure she was OK. It’s a good community of people, even if it looks a bit rough from the outside. And in the past three or four years, there have been so many good things happening here.” But are all of these changes for the better? New business is good, yes? Everybody wants to clean up the neighbourhood, right? But like Greenwich Village in New York or Montmartre in Paris, once you start cleaning up, is it possible to preserve the character of the area? In other words, where do you draw the line so that a once-freaky-but-interesting neighbourhood doesn’t turn into a bland barrio full of overpriced ice cream shops? Craft beer place Bar Ese Efe on Carretes is a relatively new arrival in Barcelona, even if its owner Dan Sites is not. Originally from San Francisco, he has lived in Barcelona for 20 years, has owned several bars and seen the neighbourhood change for the better and, in his opinion, for the worse. “I actually miss the old days sometimes, before they put in the Rambla del Raval and the big gato,” Dan said. “It was dirty, but it had character. Don’t get me wrong—I like that the barrio is cleaning itself up, but the city hasn’t let the area catch up to itself, so to speak. There are all kinds of little places struggling to hang on in the middle of a financial crisis, but they get walloped with a massive fine for having music too loud, or because the lateros are selling beer outside their place without permission…it doesn’t make sense, because we all want the same thing, no? Just to live and let live, to enjoy the character of the neighbourhood. I like when new faces venture onto our side of the Ramblas because they read online somewhere that the Raval is the place to go these days. I just don’t want it to lose its punk-rock vibe in an effort at self-improvement.” Tiny tapas restaurant Suculent on the Rambla del Raval is owned by Armando Anta and he agrees with Dan Sites that some of the changes in the neighbourhood are an improvement and some, perhaps, not so much. “It’s a really complicated subject. The downside to the so-called cleaning up is that the neighbourhood is becoming more and more policed. More tourists are drawn to the barrio, which results in more money coming in as well as more controls… It’s a good thing to have safety, obviously, but, for example, you now can get fined for singing on the street here… I’m worried that if we continue along this road, the barrio will lose the things that make it special. In my opinion the area is changing for the better and for the worse all at once. It depends on your definition of a renaissance I guess.” Luckily, the local character is strong enough in the Raval that it’s

unlikely to get swallowed up or overly watered down. Local residents are proud of their checkered past. For example, there is a little café on Rambla del Raval called Madame Jasmine’s, which used to be the house of a famous brothel madam. It still has the original floor, composed of an eclectic collection of rajoles (typical Catalan decorative tiles), broken-down velvet-covered furniture that looks like it came out of a vampire movie and dusky red lighting. In addition, there are other aspects of the ‘renaissance’ that go beyond new places to eat, drink and be entertained. The Raval is becoming more environmentally conscious. For example, the Ajuntament sponsored a huge recycling drive on Rambla del Raval this summer, and there are highly visible recycling containers all over the area. Locals will actually stop you and tell you how to use them, which is something I’ve never experienced in any other part of the city. And there’s construction on every other corner, including the continuing renovation of the impressive Modernista colossus that is the Mercat Sant Antoni. The Raval is reforming itself practically by the minute. But there is still a lot of work to do. There may not be quite as many prostitutes working in front of the Filmoteca anymore, but they’re not gone; they’ve just moved to Carrer Sant Ramon a few streets over. The beer-sellers will still harass you every few metres as you walk home at night, and it’s impossible to eat fish and chips on the terrace of the eponymous eatery without a dozen individuals begging for change. You find cute places to tapear sandwiched between ugly buildings with broken façades, kids playing on basketball courts next to a park where junkies congregate. It’s definitely a barrio in transition. But it’s also one worth discovering, whether you live in another part of the city or are just passing through. And I, for one, am curious to see what the next few years will bring.

“Fifteen years ago, no one from the city even wanted to hang out in the Raval, much less live here.”

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RENAISSANCE LIFE IN THE RAVAL - CCCB: Montalegre 5. www.cccb.org - MACBA: Plaça dels Àngels 1. www.macba.cat - La Filmoteca: Plaça Salvador Seguí 1-9. www.filmoteca.cat - Blow Gallery: San Rafael 27. www.blow-gallery.com - Miscelanea: Guàrdia 10. www.miscelanea.info - Teatre del Raval: Sant Antoni Abat 12. www.teatredelraval.com - Café Teatre Llantiol: Riereta 7. www.llantiol.com - Bar Aurora: l’Aurora 7 - Bar Ese Efe: Carretes 48 - Suculent: Rambla del Raval 43. www.suculent.com - Madame Jasmine’s café: Rambla del Raval 22 - Hotel Barceló Raval: Rambla del Raval 17-21. www.barcelo.com - Obsessions del Raval (tapas): Riereta 15 - Africa Tamarane (African specialities): Riereta 26. www.africatamarane.com - Guixot (crêpes and sandwiches): Riereta 8 - La Poderosa (Catalan dishes): Riereta 18. www.lapoderosa.es - Wah-Wah Records: Riera Baixa 14 - Revolver Records: Tallers 11 - Luchador Records: Ferlandina 39 - Discos Paradiso: Ferlandina 39

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Maria Palomares Arenas Executive Director of Calala Fondo de Mujeres, 36, Spanish I’ve been living in Barcelona since 2000. I came here from Seville to do my internship for my Masters at the Barcelona Centre for International Affairs. I studied journalism so am very interested in information and democratic practices. I started thinking about women’s rights at university and participated in various women’s groups in Seville. When I came here, I got involved in other groups and became Executive Director of Calala this year. My mum was a feminist and I learned a lot from her. She worked as a teacher and was quite high up in a workers’ union with specific responsibility for women’s issues. The feminist movement here started in the seventies when Franco died and women started to organise themselves—my mum was part of this generation. Feminism is a big movement and every woman who wants to be part of it can interpret it their own way, but at its heart, it is looking to defend women’s rights and to create an equal society. It can be done with men’s support or in women’s groups, but essentially, it is the same work. Calala is a member of the International Network of Women’s Funds. The women who created this foundation in 2000 worked in the cooperation sector and saw how donations

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didn’t arrive to women-led projects, so they wanted to set up a project that would change this reality. Our main partner is the Fondo Centroamericano de Mujeres (FCAM), the first and only foundation in Central America dedicated to mobilising resources for women’s grassroots groups. I travelled to El Salvador this summer and saw some of the work they are doing. It is incredible. To the world, it looks as if these economies are growing, but there is still a large divide between the people with money and the vast majority who are on low incomes or in poverty. All these countries have a history of fighting for democracy and a good system for everybody, and women have been a key part of this fight, but in recent years, the governments seem to be working against women’s rights, around sex and reproductive rights, about how they want their lives to be, so FCAM has a lot of work to do now. Sometimes it’s actually like it’s gone backwards. For example, in Nicaragua they are bringing in laws that are setting women’s rights back 20 or 30 years because the religious parties have a lot of power in the government. We support women’s groups in Spain and Catalunya too because there is a lot

of work to do. There are still women who die at the hands of their husbands and this is the worst problem for women in this country. Also we now have a government that wants to change politics for women and also go back 30 years. And with the crisis…all these cuts and the reduction of public support for society affects women. If you are sent home from hospital after one day, somebody has to take care of you and well, it will usually be a woman, which means more work for them. It’s happening in education too; most of the people working in schools are women and are in a labour sector that is seeing huge cuts. We are also giving support to immigrant women without papers because they are in a particularly bad situation at the moment. One of the groups we work with is doing a good job showing how much these women contribute to society. I really admire women who work hard for their community and who achieve their goals, and who find solutions for the problems in the community and their own private lives.

www.calala.org Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.

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To the polls With the race for the White House hanging in the balance, US citizens in Barcelona are considering the issues that affect them. By Lynn Baiori. Photos by Richard Owens


n a windy, late June afternoon, a group of Americans banded together at the top of Passeig de Gràcia, working to secure a large American flag across the top of a white tent. They were members of Vote from Abroad, a campaign by Democrats Abroad (DA) to register Americans living overseas to vote in the upcoming US elections, which will be held on November 6th. They had ridden in on a tour bus as part of a 26-city European road trip. As they strapped down the flag, mounted tables set with flyers and computers, curious passersby looked on. Behind them, a makeshift hut with a sign reading Petards was quietly offering fireworks to celebrate the local festivities of Sant Joan. Unlike in some countries, voter registration for Americans is not automatic, and each election year citizens living abroad must reregister in order to go to the ballots and cast a vote. To complicate matters, each state has their own particular forms and instructions about completing them. Hence the Vote from Abroad campaign, through which Democrats Abroad offers Americans of any political persuasion the opportunity to register through its website and provides them with the information they need on their right to vote in US elections. “Anybody can register,” explains Rebecca Glazer, vice chair of Democrats Abroad, Spain. “There’s no obligation to be a member of Democrats Abroad, [although] you have the option of joining DA at the end. People can register how they want to register. The nice thing is we’ve invested some money to make it more user friendly.” Through the VoteFromAbroad.org website, voters immediately receive a voter registration form and an absentee ballot request, known as the FPCA, that includes the address where they need to send their request. Although Democrats Abroad is the official overseas branch of the US Democratic Party, its website is available to serve American citizens overseas regardless of their political affiliation. “Our goal is to get as many people to vote in an election. How they vote is not my concern. I want them to vote,” says Rebecca. And how will Americans vote in the November elections? Victor Horcasitas, the president of The American Society of Barcelona, and who defines himself as a moderate Republican, explains the difference between voters living abroad and voters stateside: “I think there is going to be a stronger commitment to party lines in the US than there is here. Because a lot of the decisions that af-

fect Americans in their daily lives in the United States are not as important, are not as germane to them here.” One issue that seems to unite both Democrats and Republicans living overseas is how they are affected by new tax regulations, particularly as they impact on money reported to the United States government from foreign earnings. A law created last year will require Americans living overseas to fill out additional tax forms. Democrats Abroad is trying to lobby to simplify the new regulations. “If you don’t fill out the forms, you can be penalised by the IRS [US government tax agency]. We’re not tax evaders living abroad, we just happen to be living abroad,” says Rebecca Glazer. Another issue has been the implication of the health care initiative for US residents overseas. “We as a group lobbied to not have to pay into the individual mandate. This is something we did in conjunction with other organisations but partly, thanks to Democrats Abroad, Americans abroad don’t have to pay the penalty because we don’t live in the United States and we cannot benefit from the services of the health care law.” Another important issue that has an impact on Americans abroad is US relations overseas. “One of the big challenges has been foreign policy,” Victor Horcasitas explains. “The US has a very haphazard way of figuring out what it wants to do, whether it’s [on] Israel, Latin America, Europe or Asia. The one thing that’s true is that we try to do what’s best for the United States but I believe it’s a rather myopic view…People who are long-time expats would probably favour a candidate who seems to have a longer-term view that makes sense to people who are here.” For Americans living overseas, the damage done by the George W. Bush administration was deeply felt. Like many such Americans, Victor’s impression is that their image overseas and comfort zone are reinforced or compromised by the leadership they choose. “I think we’ve really learned that lesson under the ‘Bush Two’ administration because the anti-American sentiment here I think was a result of Iraq and Afghanistan. And particularly very sensitive here in Spain was Guantanamo Bay.” Both Victor and Rebecca think the election will be close. The news coming out of the States seems to suggest a tight race, despite Mitt Romney’s controversial choice of Tea-Party champion Paul Ryan as his Vice-Presidential running mate. Victor voted for Obama in the last elections, perhaps reflecting the deep-rooted

“The vast majority of Republicans are moderate.”

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Rebecca Glazer, vice chair of Democrats Abroad, Spain

resentment felt by Americans, even by some Republicans, towards the policies of the Bush administration. However, like some Democrats, Victor expresses disappointment with the current administration and says of President Obama, “He’s basically trying to demonstrate that he hasn’t forgotten some of his promises of four years ago but a lot of people think it’s a little too late and everything is going to be dependent on the labour statistics coming out in September.” He later added about the president, “He’s led us to expect greatness out of our presidents.” On the state of the current Republican party, Victor says, “Until we can have a candidate in the White House that isn’t extreme right, when will the moderates have a chance to lead the party? And the vast majority of Republicans are moderate.” Victor laments the direction the Republican party has taken and is convinced that the party has been “hijacked by the extreme right.” He says Republicans living here are reluctant to admit their party affiliation. “Most of the people here by far are Democrats. In the last 15 years, I might have known 10 Republicans who are willing to admit it.” In contrast, extremists in the Republican party stateside are notably vocal in their views. The spotlight this year may be on the presidential race but the balance of power can shift elsewhere with a number of gubernatorial as well as state and federal congressional seats being contested on November 6th. And although this year’s presidential race may appear a poor sequel to the exhilaration of the Hillary Clinton/ Barack Obama campaign of 2008 (according to some, that primary was the real race and not the final showdown between Obama and McCain), this year should prove to have all the excitement that we’ve come to expect from a US presidential race. As usual, a lot of emotion is riding on the election. And hope is still one of them.

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Victor Horcasitas, president of The American Society of Barcelona

MORE INFO Important note: If you forget to re-register once you’ve moved out of the US, the system used by your state tax authority will expect to see revenues from you, and any lack thereof can trigger a flag for payment anomaly, increasing your possibility of being audited. Therefore, when living and voting from abroad, it is advisable to state in your ballot that you are an American living abroad permanently. Useful contacts: Consulate General of the United States in Barcelona Passeig Reina Elisenda de Montcada 23 Tel. 93 280 2227 www.barcelona.usconsulate.gov The American Society of Barcelona Sant Eusebi 3 Tel. 93 368 4689 admin@amersoc.com Democrats Abroad www.DemocratsAbroad.org www.VoteFromAbroad.org FVAP (Federal Voting Assistance Program) www.fvap.gov Offers on-line service where you can register to vote and/or request a ballot according to your state requirements (also available through the US consulate web page—see above).

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A big thank you to everyone who sent in photos for this subject; we much appreciate it, as always. The theme for next month is: FESTIVALS—send your images to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan. com to arrive by October 17th. Find all the practical info at: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/ photocollage

Antique art at Port Vell market—by Wendy Taylor

Raval street art—by Desideria

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Rock art—by Michaela Xydi

Rambla devil—by Matt Trustrum

Homer Simpson on Barceloneta beach —by Wendy Taylor

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Decorated building—by Michaela Xydi

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Above: Alex Salvador with one of the sanctuary’s residents. Below: the space used to belong to a children’s nursery

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Secret sanctuary Hidden away in the Raval is a space dedicated to helping abandoned cats. By Louise Johnson. Photos by Lee Woolcock


arks don’t come two a penny in downtown Barcelona, so a quiet and secluded green space in the heart of El Raval is unusual. But what makes this one unique is that it’s populated not by human beings but by cats—dozens of them. Locals and tourists stumbling across the place stop for a moment to gaze at the cats of all shapes and sizes basking in the sun or playing with the toys donated by animal-loving friends. Given its quirkiness and ultra urban setting in the old town, the park is believed to be the only one of its kind in Spain. El Jardinet dels Gats (Little Garden of Cats) was the brainchild of nearby resident, Maria Dolores Borras. Back in 2005, the park, a former kindergarten, lay in a tumbledown state attracting a ragtag bunch of homeless moggies. A hole-riddled fence surrounded the unkempt space. Maria appealed to the local council and after some consultation she was allowed to take on the care of the abandoned space and its feline inhabitants. Initially, a few neighbours were wary because they were worried about the possibly anti-social nature of the project—who wants a smelly tomcat as their nextdoor neighbour? But Maria stuck with it and the nimbys’ hearts melted when they realised her idea could actually improve the area rather than devalue it. Alex Salvador, 35, is the park’s co-founder and Maria’s daughter. “The place looked like Dante’s Inferno,” she commented. “There were dead bodies of cats lying about and dead pigeon carcasses, which the cats had caught and then tossed aside. It was damp and dirty with raw meat and leftover food left to rot. It wasn’t nice.” Cleaning up the area took several weeks, the hard graft being carried out by Alex, her mother and father, Paco Salvador. In 2008, the park was officially opened and its day-to-day running is shared between the mother and daughter duo. Alex, an ex-administrator, now works full-time at the Jardinet. As a little girl, she was something of a St Francis of Assisi, taking care of cats she found in the street. Walking to school was a timeconsuming business as she would stop and feed the strays on the

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way. They ended up with six cats in their home nearby in Raval. “This love of animals runs in my family—my mother, my grandmother and so on,” Alex said. “Cats are special because they are so sensitive and fragile. If people see a dog loose on the street, they feel worried but this attitude doesn’t extend to a stray cat. They think the cat will be fine but this isn’t true.” The cats in the park are by no means all alley cats. Many are domestic pets, who have fallen on hard times after being abandoned by their owners. Despite the degree of camouflage the garden’s foliage and 20foot high (now intact) fence offer, Alex still regularly comes to work in the morning to find cats left at the gate like discarded boots. (This is the reason that the exact location of the park isn’t given in this article, to try to avoid a fresh influx of cats.) “People phone, they come along here, they send emails…they always find a convenient way to dispose of their animals and we have to take on the responsibility. It’s horrible, we hate it, but we have to cope. If someone says to us “if you don’t take my cat, I’ll leave her,” then of course we take the animal. A domestic cat would not survive long on the street. “One night, someone threw a cat wrapped in a towel over the fence. It was tangled up for hours and was really traumatised.” This cat, Diana, a six-year-old ginger-and-white tabby, could have been badly injured or even killed. Instead she escaped with cuts and bruises. And a shattered sense of trust in humankind. Diana may have lost one of her nine lives but the story has a happy ending. Later, after a spell in the garden, she was adopted by a German cat-lover and now lives with him there. The goal of the Jardinet is to get the cats fostered (that is, placed in a temporary home) or, better still, adopted and given a permanent roof over their heads. The park acts as a kind of holding station until they are given a second chance in life. Indeed in the park’s first year alone, 300 cats were rescued and more than 200 adopted. Sadly, the recession has impacted upon the Jardinet’s not-so-


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fat cats. Last summer saw fewer adoptions but a doubling in the number of abandoned pets, with holidays or a change of address often given as the excuse. So far this year only about three or four cats have been adopted each month compared with a figure nearly three times that last year. Cat behaviourist Jordi Ferres is one of the park’s support network of people with specialist skills. Jordi, 37, learnt his craft while working with big cats, such as snow leopards and lynxes, at a sanctuary in the UK. He studied their body language and then applied his knowledge to domestic cats. Now he works his magic on a wide range of feline problems, from calming down cats who like a good old catfight to establishing physical contact with a cat that has refused to let its owner touch it. Recently he was called to the Jardinet to attend to a beautiful yet highly-strung puss called Whitney. She was found on the street but little is known about how she got there. At first, the tortoiseshell was a hissing and spitting bundle of nerves. Alex could hardly feed her, let alone stroke her. “Cats hate authority,” Jordi explained. “If you do something bad to them, you are two steps back. Patience is the key— cats sense it and realise there’s nothing to be scared of.” His ‘softly, softly’ technique has already seen a big change in Whitney’s behaviour. She is a calmer cat these days, prone to fewer diva-ish tantrums, and has now found a foster home. Other specialists working with the sanctuary include vets from S.A. Veterinaris, who offer the Jardinet a deal on their services, and Bach Flower therapist Rosa Rodriguez, who uses flower essences to help with the cats’ psychological issues. The park also relies heavily on its 70-strong team of dedicated volunteers. Their input is essential, especially in these current stormy times when there is little money to pay for the maintenance and upkeep of the cats let alone staff. In the past, the local government provided cash for the sterilisation of some of the Jardinet’s cats but

even this may have now dried up. So the team puts all its efforts into fundraising; a vegan dinner at this year’s Gràcia street festival and a tattoo event—money made from giving people tattoos went towards the Jardinet—are just two recent examples. ‘Without our help, the cats would lead a very complicated life,’ said Emi Torrado, a volunteer at the Jardinet for the last four years. The Catalan government prides itself on being ahead of the rest of Spain when it comes to animal rights, what with the recent bullfighting ban and making it illegal to put down abandoned animals here. While the government gave the green light to the Jardinet project, however, uncertainty hangs in the air about its future and whether the animals will be able to stay at their current billet. In a perfect world, Alex would like the Jardinet to be unnecessary. But until such a time arrives, Alex and Maria hope they can survive and keep ‘living the dream’, as they put it. Freed from the nightmare of their former lives, the cats are no doubt thinking much the same thing.

“One night someone threw a cat wrapped in a towel over the fence.”

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MORE INFO To find out more about the park and the work they do, including the foster and adoption scheme, and about how to volunteer, visit their website: www.eljardinetdelsgats.org or send an email to eljardinetdelsgats@gmail.com You can buy cat-related gifts from the Jardinet’s shop: Nou de la Rambla 14, baixos—it is only regularly open on the first Thursday of each month, from 6-7pm. However, you can make an appointment to go at a different time, by calling 636 382 194 between 6 and 8pm or sending them an email. Jordi Ferres: www.educadordegats.cat S.A. Veterinaris: www.saveterinaris.com

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A few suggestions about things to do tonight, this weekend, later on...

Off the canvass

Palazuelo: Linia y plano en el espacio. Fundación Francisco Godia. October 11th to January 6th, 2013

Negro y Blanco, positivo (1930). Man Ray

The eye of Man Man Ray. Collección D’Afflitto, Nueva York. Subastas Soler y Llach (Beethoven 13). October 29th and 30th. www.soleryllach.com The name Emmanuel Radnitzky may not bring to mind images of Avant-Garde art, but this master of the visual arts later changed his name to Man Ray, a moniker that is certain to strike a chord with many. On October 30th, Soler y Llach will auction photographs by Man Ray from the highly-prized collection of the gallerist Camillo D’Afflitto. It will be the largest sale of his work since 1995, and a rare opportunity for Man Ray fans to come in contact with the photographs on exhibit before they reach the auction block. The works, many of which are original prints, came in large part from the private collection of the artist’s wife and muse, Juliet. Dated between 1920 and 1970, they offer an ample view of the photographic output of one of the promoters of the Surrealist and Dadaist movements. Among the rarities on display is the magnificent Negro y Blanco, which is expected to bring in between €150,000 and €200,000. For those who are a little short on cash this month, have no fear—you can pick up a photo of Pablo Picasso and Dora Maar relaxing at the beach with a Saluki hound for around €5,000. Viewing before the auction will be open to the public on October 29th and 30th.

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Beginnning this month, the Fundación Francisco Godia, in collaboration with Banca March, will bring together 93 works by the Spanish artist Pablo Palazuelo. The exhibition includes paintings, sculptures and architectural models obtained from private collections, along with works belonging to the Fundación Pablo Palazuelo, all of which give an insight into the artist’s creative development and transformation from the two-dimensional paintings of his earlier career to the threedimensional forms that he later developed through his sculpture. Behind Palazuelo’s artistic experience there is the aspiration to achieve a beauty that goes beyond classicism, which belongs to a more modern sensibility, one the artist reached through an investigation of the spiritual, the alchemical and the profoundly psychological.

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Up on stage Some of the concerts happening this month in Barcelona

The Cranberries—Thursday 4th at Sant Jordi Club The Tallest Man on Earth—Friday 5th at Casino de L’Aliança de Poblenou Brazilian Girls—Friday 12th at Sala Music Hall Royal Republic and Kopec—Thursday 18th at La 2 de Apolo Richard Hawley—Friday 26th at Sala Apolo Scissor Sisters (pictured above)—Monday 29th at Razzmatazz


ULLS Festival Barcelona Cultura. Various venues. October 3rd to 7th. www.ulls.org

This month, Barcelona plays host to the ULLS Festival, a multicultural event that brings together music, dance, circus arts and poetry that go beyond the limitations of conventional art. During five days, at various city locations, you can discover some of the very best up-andcoming talent from Latin America and Europe. For those looking to expand their vision further, there are conferences and workshops aimed at creating dialogue through the lens of various artistic disciplines, languages and cultural perspectives. There are also activities on the agenda for younger culture seekers with programs planned for the whole family. Many of the activities are free of charge, making them accessible to anyone on a budget.

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Behind the music Beefeater In-Edit Documentary Film Festival. Various venues. October 25th to November 4th. www. in-edit.beefeater.es

The international music documentary festival, Beefeater In-Edit, returns to Barcelona for its 10th year, with 26 select films focusing on different aspects of the genre. If you haven’t taken advantage of the last nine festivals (and especially if you have), you won’t want to miss the 2012 edition. To celebrate, In-Edit has added to the line-up a selection of films voted on by the public, six films deemed the best from the past decade, in a special, ‘Your 10 years’ section. Also new to this year’s edition is an on-line viewing cinema, ‘In-Edit TV’, which will allow viewers throughout Spain to watch the festival’s documentaries on a pay-per-view basis, making it the first video on demand provider dedicated exclusively to music documentaries. Subjects in this year’s festival include the life of pre-Civil War Catalan soprano Conxita Badia Millàs, the struggles of conducting Mahler in Iran, life with The Beastie Boys and the world of techno, pyrotechnics and cybercrusty parades while Julien Temple’s film London—The Modern Babylon is showing at the Filmoteca de Catalunya. In other words, there’s something for every musical taste. Make the most of it with the specially-priced ticket packs that the Aribau Multisalas and Aribau Club 2 Salas are offering for their screenings.

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This season’s big show at the Picasso Museum features the ceramic work created by the artist during the latter part of his life. By Will Shank.

Owl, Spanish platter (May 10th, 1957)—Donation from Jacqueline Picasso, 1982. Museu PIcasso Barcelona. © Successió Pablo Picasso, VEGAP, Madrid 2012


his autumn, the Museu Picasso, under its new director

Valouris off and on for the next 25 years as an unlikely ‘apprentice’ in

Bernardo Laniado-Romero, will focus its attention on gems

a medium that he had not mastered.

from the permanent collection. Its sublime collection of

Although he did not succeed in throwing a traditional pot on a wheel,

ceramics were a gift from Picasso’s widow in 1982. Along with the

he adapted existing forms to his own creative impulses, usually

series of Picasso’s painted studies of Velázquez’s ‘Las Meninas’, the

incorporating his two-dimensional designs into a pre-existing three-

ceramics collection is one of the jewels of the Barcelona museum,

dimensional format. He also fashioned lumps of clay into owls,

representing some of the finest of the artist’s late work.

pigeons, etc., but most of the Jacqueline Picasso gift collection is

The ‘Picasso’s Ceramics’ exhibition was mounted by guest Picasso

of the kitchen-utensil variety of shapes. His espagnoles, or Spanish

scholars from the UK, Marilyn McCully and Michael Raeburn, and it

platters, are rectangular plates with rounded corners on which the

opens on Picasso’s birthday. McCully was the curator of the definitive

homesick artist-in-exile explored Spanish themes such as the corrida

1998-99 Picasso ceramic exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan

de toros. His painted pignales are common casserole forms. And yet,

Museum and London’s Royal Academy of the Arts: ‘Picasso, Painter

when manipulated and decorated by Picasso, the everyday objects

and Sculptor in Clay’.

take on a new aura, reminiscent of the ancient Greek traditions of

Jacqueline Roque, a 27-year-old divorcée with a young daughter,

painted pottery. His decorated emprentes originales were multiples

met 72-year-old Picasso in 1953, when she took a job at her cousin’s

drawn from a single mould as authorised by the artist.

business, the Madoura Pottery in Valouris, France. Picasso was the

The piece-by-piece presentation of each object by the illustrious

world’s most famous artist and was living with Françoise Gilot, the

curators promises to shed new light on the inventive artist’s creative

mother of his two young children, when the romance with Roque

process as well as the pictorial imagery that inspired him in each

began. When Picasso’s long-estranged wife Olga Khokhlova died


in 1955, the lovers were free to marry, which they did in 1961.

Looking ahead, next summer’s big show at the museum will be ‘Me,

Jacqueline remained with him until his death in 1973. In 1982, four

Picasso’, an exhibition of self-portraits, which will include loan works

years before her own death, Jacqueline Picasso gave the group of

from all periods of the artist’s oeuvre, along with selections from the

41 ceramics to the Museu Picasso. It was a fitting choice, given the

permanent collection.

shared interest of the couple in ceramics. Picasso developed an interest in ceramics quite late in his career,

‘Ceràmiques de Picasso: un regal de Jacqueline a Barcelona’,

when he was well into his 60s, after he developed a working

October 26th to April 1st, 2013. ‘Yo, Picasso. Autoretrats’, May

relationship with ceramicists Georges and Suzanne Ramies in 1946

29th, 2013 to September 1st, 2013. Museu Picasso de Barcelona.

during his holidays to the French Riviera. He worked with them in


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Photos (L-R): Altar paying homage to Michael Jackson from Fantastik shop, 2009; traditional altar set up in the restaurant Cantina Machito, 2010—both photos by Julio Sánchez/Consorte Cultura; this year’s event poster



l Día de los Muertos is a Mexican cultural phenomenon that dates back to Pre-Columbian times. From October 31st to November 2nd, whole families gather in the local cemetery, bringing flowers, food and candles, and create handmade ‘altars’ for deceased loved ones in their homes. It’s a ritual that might seem a little strange to the uninitiated, but the celebration is becoming increasingly popular all around the world. The Ruta de Altares (Altars Route) is an exposition unique to the city of Barcelona. As Mexican native and Barcelona resident Rosi Morales explains, “The idea is not to celebrate death, but to celebrate the life of the person by remembering them. The best way to describe an altar is almost like a table set out for an important guest; someone coming to visit who you haven’t seen for a long time.” Morales runs a small cultural centre in Gràcia called Diogenes that since 2009 has been the driving force behind Barcelona’s Ruta de Altares. “We make altars every year. I was working at a foundation called the Food and Culture Museum back in 2007, and we decided to put up an altar for the Day of the Dead because we’d found some sugar skulls in the archives of the museum. We thought, ‘why not, it’s sugar, it’s technically food’.” After this, Morales and her colleagues discovered that several places around Barcelona had been putting up altars for some years. “The Mexican Consulate and the Pre-Columbian Art Museum invited us to be a part of an informal altars route, and the event grew from there,” she says. Over the past few years, under the charge of Morales and with the support of the Mexican consulate, it has come to incorporate restaurants and bars as well as cultural centres. “The only requirement is that the altars include some or all of the main elements found in traditional altars,” Morales explains. “These include salt, sugar, water, candles, a photo of the person, usually the person’s favourite food or drink, flowers (usually marigolds) and, of course, the sugar skulls, which have become a symbol of Día de los Muertos.” She points out that altars don’t have to commemorate a Mexican person. For example, this year Casa America Catalunya is honouring a Catalan writer, illustrator and publisher who went by the pseudonym of Tisner; he was exiled during the Spanish Civil War and went to Mexico. Two years ago, the shop Fantastik created one in honour of Michael Jackson.

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Barcelona has created a unique way to mark the Mexican tradition of El Dia de los Muertos. By Tori Sparks.

“The altars go up in October and run through most of November. This year we have almost 30 participating locations. Many of the cultural institutions involved also offer workshops and related events to celebrate the Día de los Muertos,” Morales says. When it comes to involvement from people not familiar with the tradition, Morales adds, “We’ve been pleasantly surprised by the positive reaction we’ve gotten from non-Mexicans in Barcelona. But we’ve also made an effort to try to incorporate local culture into the route every year. For example, in 2010, our poster design depicted Day of the Dead skeletons making a traditional Catalan human tower [castell]... It’s interesting how many non-Mexicans, Catalans and expats really get into the idea. I’ve had people tell me that they’ve visited every single altar on the route!” Selected participating altar sites: Diogenes Espacio Cultural—Martinez de la Rosa 21, bajos, tel. 93 265 8094. Altar: Honouring Don Arcadio Hidalgo, the “father of the rebirth of the son jarocho”. Casa America Catalunya—Còrsega 299, entresuelo, tel. 93 238 0661. Altar: Honouring Tisner, Catalan exile and writer. Consulado de México en Barcelona—Pg Bonanova 55, tel. 93 417 1747. Altar: Honouring Chavela Vargas, Mexican singer known for her rancheras. Tienda Ameyal—Corders 9, tel. 93 269 1330. Altar: Honouring Frida Kahlo, Mexican painter. Café Galeria Cosmo—Enric Granados 3, tel. 93 453 7007. Altar: In collaboration with Fantastik (see below). Fantastik—Joaquín Costa 62, tel. 93 301 3068. Altar: Honouring US singer Donna Summer. Find a full list of participating altar sites, including dates and schedule of related events at: www.rutadealtares.org

9/25/12 11:52:56 AM



Get in touch with your wild side and discover some of the abundant fauna that Catalunya and other regions have to offer. By Rupert Crookenden

Lions from the reserve at Sigean. Courtesy Sigean African Reserve


t times, living in a city can wear down the spirit of even the most hardened of individuals—urban dwellers are forced to contend not only with the seemingly perpetual background noise of others going about their daily lives but also with the grey and daunting man-made topography that surrounds them. Moreover, after months residing solely in Barcelona (or any other city for that matter), it is all too easy to disregard the beauty and diversity of the flora and fauna that so dominates the countryside. With this in mind, why not escape the clamour of urban life this month and dedicate yourself to observing the behavioural patterns of some of the many and various living wonders of the natural world. EMPURIABRAVA BUTTERFLY PARK Nestled between three nature reserves in the Costa Brava is this conservation centre and popular family attraction. The 1,000-square-metre greenhouse is home not only to the eponymous butterflies but also to a wealth of different species of moths, birds and tropical plants. Careful attention has been paid to the environment created within the greenhouse in order that visitors are able to view the butterflies, moths and birds in their natural habitats. As such, the interior of the greenhouse is more reminiscent of a tropical rainforest than of the Catalan countryside, a setting that is necessary in order that the winged inhabitants can thrive. Indeed, many of the plants provide both resting places and nutrition (in the form of nectar) for their co-residents. Visitors are treated to the visual feast of seeing butterflies and birds of all shapes, sizes and colours from across the globe. It’s also possible to gain an insight into the biological processes by which the butterfly comes into being as both breeding and metamorphosis are commonly witnessed at the park. WHERE IT IS: Take the AP-7 out of Barcelona and head

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Attacus atlas (Atlas moth). Courtesy Empuriabrava Butterfly Park

towards France. Take exit 4 (Figueres Sud) and follow signs to Figueres; after about 10 minutes, take the C-68. The park is located just off the road between Castelló and Empuriabrava. It’s currently open from late March to early November (the doors open at 10am and close one hour before sunset). HOW MUCH DOES IT COST: Adults pay €8 and children €6. It’s also possible to purchase a season pass for €20. Tel. 972 45 07 61. www.butterflypark.es SIGEAN AFRICAN RESERVE This wildlife reserve may be somewhat far afield (it’s situated in France, just south of Narbonne) but once you’re there, the experience is sure to be well worth those few extra hours spent travelling (also bear in mind that the alternative is flying to Africa!). Founded in 1974, the reserve has grown quickly from its humble beginnings and is now estimated to accommodate nearly 900 mammals, 600 reptiles and 2,000 birds. As such, visitors to the reserve can view a plethora of exotic animals (giraffes, black bears, lions, rhinoceros, zebras and warthogs to name but a few) and enjoy 300 hectares of parkland. Indeed, there’s sure to be something at Sigean African Reserve to please even the most phlegmatic of visitor. WHERE IT IS: Take the AP-7 motorway over the border to France. Carry along the French motorway until junction 39 (some 45 minutes after Perpignan). The reserve sits just 15 kilometres south of Narbonne and eight kilometres north of Sigean. HOW MUCH DOES IT COST: Entrance costs €28 for adults and €21 for children with discounts available for larger groups. Guided tours (both on foot and in a minibus) are available for an extra €96 and €175 respectively. Accommodation in the form of hotels, bed & breakfasts and campsites are in abundance in and around Sigean. www.reserveafricainesigean.fr

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One of the many colourful birds you’ll find at the Butterfly Park. Courtesy Empuriabrava Butterfly Park

WILDLIFE WALKS Originally from Britain but based here since the mid-Eighties, Mike Lockwood runs wildlife walks in Catalunya and Valencia throughout the year. The specific area through which each walk takes place is dependent upon the season but there are plenty of options available. The primary focus is upon different species of birds and plants but opportunities to see other types of wildlife are also on offer. On certain walks, Mike even strives to track down a variety of amphibians, reptiles and insects; for instance, he has regularly spotted ocellated lizards, viperine snakes and painted frogs in the Barranc de l’Infern area (Valencia). WHERE IT IS: The Iberian Wildlife website lists which areas can be visited in which season and also the wildlife that is likely to be spotted on each specific walk. HOW MUCH DOES IT COST: Mike’s walks cost €120 for a halfday and €180 for a full day (for a group of up to 10 people). For a group of more than 10, a half-day tour costs €10 per person and a full day tour €15 per person. Children under 12 can accompany their parents free of charge. www.iberianwildlife.com/ mike-lockwood.htm WOLF WATCHING TRIPS Spain is one of the last few refuges of the wolf in Europe, accounting for approximately 30 percent of the European wolf population outside Russia, and is home to the Iberian wolf. In 1970, it was estimated that only 400 to 500 Iberian wolves were still in existence and, although numbers have gradually recovered since then, it is still considered to be an endangered species. Barcelona naturalist Sergi Garcia offers the opportunity to view these incredible creatures up close in the wild. Sergi leads wolf watching trips in the Sierra de la Culebra in Zamora where there is estimated to be a population of somewhere between 50 and 60 Iberian wolves. WHERE IT IS: The hunting reserve of the Sierra is located in the community of Castilla y León in the northwest of Spain. The easiest way to get there from Barcelona is to fly—Iberia has daily flights to León and Valladolid starting at around €60 one way. Driving to the reserve could take from eight to 10 hours each way, via the E-90 or E-15 roads, with tolls and petrol costing at least €300 in total. HOW MUCH DOES IT COST: The trip costs €75 per night (the average stay being five nights). Those taking the trip will also have to pay for transportation to and from the Sierra de la Culebra. For further details get in touch with Sergi’s wildlife organisation, Galanthus—tel. 972 49 25 63 or mail: info@ asgalanthus.org

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9/25/12 12:22:55 PM


Balancing Act

Taste and texture come together at Ikibana. By Tara Stevens. Photos by Richard Owens ✪ - NOT WORTH THE TRIP, ✪✪ - COULD IMPROVE, ✪✪✪ - GOOD, ✪✪✪✪ - VERY GOOD, ✪✪✪✪✪ - NOT TO BE MISSED


vinguda Paral·lel has been shaking out its feathers for some time now. And while the vision to restore it to Barcelona’s answer to Broadway may not quite have come to fruition, there is a corner of it, the golden ‘T’ if you will, that has become a hub for stars of the restaurant business. Just follow your nose from Plaça Espanya down Paral·lel (the Adrià brothers’ Tickets and 41º are both located here), east along the Carrer Lleida where the fish restaurant Rias de Galicia will soon open a temple to Japanese-Peruvian fusion, and west along Parlament where Federal, Tarannà and Bar Carders boast the most popular brunch and vermut spots in town. Ikibana, the bigger, more glamorous brother of the restaurant of the same name in El Born, opened on the Paral·lel back in June and remained fairly anonymous for a few weeks. The willowy flower arrangements in the window had me convinced it was a Japanese florist and it was quite easy to miss. Not so now! On a balmy Monday night in September when I visited, the place was packed to the gills. Somebody somewhere had clearly been talking. It was designed by the Catalan architecture and design firm Arqteria and cuts a dashing figure. Indeed, as restaurant design goes, it’s probably one of the most striking places in the city with billowing beech wood ceiling sculptures—think Frank Gehry’s Marques de Riscal winery in Rioja on a smaller scale—swirling wooden banquets and high tables dotted in between. The lighting is low, the music a bit too clubby, although it made sense once I realised it is owned by the same Dutch company behind Carpe Diem on the beach.

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Truthfully, that is not something that would normally make me rush to eat there, but it delivered great atmosphere, bold flavours and excellent service. Our waitress, Patricia, was quick, efficient and friendly, responded graciously when I asked if we could slow things down a bit and offered advice on the wine. If there is such a thing as a service award in this town, which there should be if we are ever to sharpen up the game, I’d like to nominate Patricia (pictured above left) immediately, but I digress. Ikibana’s menu is rather long and covers a lot of ground from edamame beans to ceviche, seaweed salads to tempura and dumplings, various types of sushi and sashimi, rice balls and noodles, kobe burgers and chicken skewers, strawberry mochis and New York brownies. It was exhausting just reading it so I ordered a bottle of Susana Sempre (a sprightly, steely Mallorcan white) in honour of my friend who has the same name and the mid-range tasting menu (there are three) for €48. The balance of tastes and textures—salt, sweet and acid, soft and crunchy, cooling and warm—was impressive, and on the whole it worked like a dream with just the occasional flop. Why would you put a fried banana beneath a chunk of Waguyu beef, which was a bit tough and chewy anyway, only to get a dish that was just cloying and blah? Hey ho—the rest showed solid kitchen skills and brought together a host of interesting flavour combinations. King prawn salad with hijiki and wakame seaweeds tossed in a zingy sweet and sour yuzu dressing was just the ticket to get you salivating, before the arrival of buttery lozenges of raw salmon

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marinated in sake and scattered with pink peppercorns and shaved celery. The green apple and passion fruit dipping sauce provided added layers of acidity. And so to a bowl of steamed gyoza stuffed with beef and coriander in a warm dashi broth cradling shitake mushrooms and dark tohsaka seaweed to warm the stomach, followed by a pure, cleansing nigiri of hamachi (yellow tail) on avocado. Gunkan maguro comprised a silky ribbon of tuna stuffed with chopped tuna and tofu whisked into a light miso mayonnaise and sandwiched between two slices of refreshing lime. Clever. And the crunchy ‘Bossa Nova’—a vegetarian uramaki of wasabi-spiked guacamole, tubiko and wakame seaweed—delivered crunch and texture against all odds. Where the sense of balance got slightly lost was in desserts. Both were fine in and of themselves —a green tea sponge cake topped with lychees, white chocolate cream, toasted coconut and raspberries, and some sort of chocolate bomb that came as a bonus dish—but rather too heavy after the almost ethereal lightness of the rest of the menu. The only other down point, as I said at the start, was the music which unfortunately is a problem wherever the club world merges with the restaurant one. It started well, soothing us into the night with bossa nova crooners, then descended into electro hell turned up far too loud. That didn’t stop us lingering for a postprandial passion fruit ‘mojito’ however, and nor will it stop me returning. Ikibana serves just the kind of light, lively and interesting food I like, at a price that doesn’t make you shudder.

Ikibana, Avinguda Paral·lel 148; tel. 93 424 4648, www.ikibana.com. Open daily 1.30-4pm, 8.30pm2.30am. Tasting menus: €33, €48 and €68. Weekday lunch menu: €12. House wine: €14.50 Tara’s rating ✪✪✪✪

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9/25/12 12:27:52 PM


quick bites SEASON TO BE GAME

By Tara Stevens. Photos by Markus Kreutzer

Images from Avinova: (clockwise from left) serving a customer, guinea hen and showing off some of the wares


n Barcelona, the undisputed king of game, both big and small, is Avinova, one of the Boqueria’s longest-standing stalls and still one of the most respected among chefs looking to source top quality produce. About now, their butcher’s hooks are dripping with the shimmery plumage of pintada and faisan (guinea hen and pheasant), which have white and dark meat that tastes a bit stronger than chicken, but not too much; coffee-coloured hares with their deeply livery nuances; and intensely satisfying cuts of wild boar, deer and muflon (a wild mountain sheep, mouflon in English). All of it is then carefully plucked and prepared, and nearly all of it comes from around Barcelona, La Garrotxa, Lleida and Aragon. Once you get into it, nothing beats game for autumn cooking as the tougher flesh and stronger flavoured meat lends itself well to bolder flavours, slow roasting and stews. And often you don’t really need to add a great deal to it to make the dish sing. On a recent trip to Portugal, I was served mouflon stew at a winery in the Alentejo. We helped ourselves from an old-fashioned porcelain tureen placed in the centre of the table, with nothing more than a green salad on the side. It was one of the simplest and best meals I’d had this year. Recipe: Mouflon Stew (serves 4-6) 1 kg mouflon, cut into 2 inch cubes 1 baguette, sliced into rounds 2 large onions, cut in half and thinly sliced

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3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 3 large potatoes, peeled and diced 3 large carrots, peeled and diced 1 bottle dry white wine plus a bit extra 1 large handful fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped Salt, pepper and olive oil Preheat the oven to 120ºC. Brush the bread on both sides with olive oil, spread over a baking tray and bake for 30 minutes until crisp. In a large earthenware or cast iron pan with a lid, brown the mouflon well, remove from the pan and set aside. Sauté the onion and garlic in the same oil over a medium heat until soft and golden (about seven minutes). Return the mouflon to the pan and stir well. Pour in the wine and bring to a simmer. Turn up the oven to 160ºC, cover and cook the stew for three hours, checking occasionally. It should be quite liquidy—if it starts to look dry at any stage, add more wine or water. Add the potatoes, carrots and half the mint, season well and cook for another 30-40 minutes until the vegetables are tender. To serve, arrange 2-3 slices of bread in the bottom of soup dishes, ladle the stew over the top and sprinkle with fresh mint. Avinova: http://avinovaboqueria.cat For more Barcelona dining tips, follow my tweets: @taralstevens

9/25/12 12:33:59 PM

main pages Oct 2012.indd 9

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Quality Sushi in Barcelona www.sushiexpress.net

This is not just any ordinary sushi. It is made on-site with top quality

interested in our combos or menus. At lunchtime the menus are

ingredients. You can take away, enjoy in our shops, Sushiexpress

accompanied by a free drink.

Eixample and Sushiexpress Galvany or call us and we’ll deliver it

We also offer you the chance to buy from our wide range of

to your home or hotel. Have a look at our menus to get to know

oriental products, including sauces, condiments, frozen foods

our maki, nigiri, temaki and other specialities or you might be

and much more.

SUSHIEXPRESS EIXAMPLE Consell de Cent, 255, 08011 Tel. 93 451 5454

SUSHIEXPRESS MERCAT GALVANY Santaló, 55, 08021 Tel. 93 200 9293

Open 12pm-4pm, 7pm-11pm 365days/year! Delivery 1pm-3pm, 8pm-10.30pm

Open from Tuesday to Saturday. 9am-3pm No delivery

main pages Oct 2012.indd 8

9/25/12 12:06:58 PM


Food&Drink For more in food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking


 under 20 |  20-30 |  30-40 |  over 40 RV Reservation Advised | NEW in food & drink this month


* Discount for Metropolitan readers.



biergarten4Les Corts

RED ROCKET4Barri gÒtic

To celebrate the eighth year of the Biergarten, the first traditional German terrace in Barcelona, why don’t you and your friends try the real taste of Bavaria? The space recreates the legendary beer gardens, with German music, typical Bavarian food and beer, wooden benches and excellent service from waiters wearing costumes from the region. The Biergarten is the ideal place to come and have a great time while watching your favourite football. 

Red Rocket was opened in 2008 and has become the €5 MIXES cradle of musicians and DJs in rock scene here in Barcelona. They offer the most authentic rock sessions with top DJ’s in a friendly and authentic environment. Metropolitan readers get fantastic drink offers like 1 beers and 5 mixed drinks. 

Pl. Pius XII, 4 I Metro Mª Cristina Tel. 93 5081 000/676 477 094 psofiabiergarten@expogrupo.com www.princesasofia.com Open every day from noon to midnight

macarena mar4 BEACH BAR Mac Arena Mar is an authentic beach club located on the sand near Port Forum. They have a top programme of international DJs playing throughout the summer, so you can enjoy an Ibiza vibe right here in Barcelona. Relax at the beach and enjoy their exquisite range of dishes, including seafood dishes, gourmet hamburgers, sandwiches and tapas. They also have a fantastic wine menu to accompany your ‘al fresco’ lunch. 

Tel. 679 888 836 I Playa Port Forum, Sant Adria de Besos I Metro Forum (L4) I TRAM Central Térmica reservas@macarenamar.com www.macarenamar.com

Calle Codols 21, Ciutat Vella | Metro Drassanes | www.facebook.com/bar.redrocket Open every day 7.30pm-10pm

BOLLOCKS BAR4Barri gÒtic The quintessential rock bar in downtown Barcelona. Covered in posters and graffiti from top to bottom, the bar has the air of an abandoned subway station where daily riffs and whiskey bring together all those who carry rock & roll in their blood.  Ample 46 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am Tel. 663 710 095 | www.bollocksbcn.com

NEVERMIND4Barri gÒtic Nevermind is a cult place for those looking for a more alternative scene in touristy Barcelona. Mixing large amounts of grunge music, graffi tti and urban sports, they serve up amazing cocktails, special! house shots, cheap beer, Happy Hour till 10pm, free freshly-made popcorn, authentic decoration, skate videos and much more.  Escudellers Blancs 3, 08002 | www.nevermindbcn.com | Open every day from 7pm

SWEET REBEL BAR4Barri gÒtic Located in the heart of the Gothic quarter, this cool ‘beach bar’ is the place to enjoy the sweetest reggae music 365 days a year. Chill out with a beer or try a Jamaican cocktail made from natural fruits and sweet rum. Its comfortable surroundings and ambiance. make it a great place to relax. Beers 2 Cocktails 5.  Ample 54 | Open every day from 7pm-3am

Disset 17 Graus4BORN


The new wine temple in Born—a unique space in Barcelona offering a wide range of quality wines. Just opened, you can come and enjoy the cosy, local and welllaid-out bar, surrounded by shelves full of original and interesting wines. Affordable to all, the bar offers wines from all over the world, specialising in Spanish, French and Portuguese wines. Also don’t forget the special drinks menu of gin and tonics, cocktails, whiskies, beers and other drinks. 

Barraval is located at the top of the Rambla de Raval where they have a fantastic terrace for you to enjoy great, seasonal Mediterranean food. On Friday and Saturday nights, they have a live DJ so you can enjoy tasty cocktails in a trendy atmosphere. Weekend menu 12.95 

Antic de St Joan 3 Tel. 93 268 1987 | Tue-Sun 7pm-2.30am

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Hospital, 104 (Rambla del Raval) | Liceu / Sant Antoni | T. 93 329 8277 M. 609 221 400 | Wed-Sat 7.30pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun open at 1pm for lunch | RV

MANCHESTER BAR4Barri gÒtic Manchester Bar brings together friends and music fans to enjoy great tunes from the Eighties and Nineties. From Joy Division to Placebo to The Smiths and all the way through to the Happy Mondays, Manchester Bar has it all. A must-visit place for anyone who knows and loves their music!  Milans 5 | Metro Jaume I | Every day 7pm-3am Tel. 627 733 081 | www.manchesterbar.com

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42 FOOD & DRINK bagel be MY bageL 4grÀCia Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you’ll not come away disappointed. 

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open Mon-Fri 9.30-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

breaD & CirCuSeS barCeLOna 4grÀCia Bread & Circuses creates delicious, inexpensive, creative sandwiches showcasing American technique and style combined with incredible Catalan ingredients. The first truly American-style sandwich shop and delivery service in Barcelona. Try their lunch box special for your office, picnic in the park or day at the beach. Follow them on Facebook. 

Congost 13, 08024 I FGC Gràcia Tel. 610 898 494 I Delivery from 1pm-4pm

burger PiM PaM burger4BorN Here quality is of the upmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises. 

Sabateret 4 - Bor I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I burger@pimpamplats.com Calle Bigai 1, Bonanova, 08022 I Tel. 93 211 5606 www.pimpamburger.com I Every day 1pm-12am

VitaLi PiZZa4 BarCeLoNa Gourmet pizza delivery from 3 locations offering 50+ thin-crust, homemade pizzas. With specials like three large cheese pizzas for 15 and the option to pay by credit card, it makes for an affordable meal at home without all the fuss. Special offer: 2X1 on every Monday home delivery! 

Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clinic Tel. 93 444 4737 Rosselló 270 I Tel. 93 458 0710 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gràcia Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com

Cocktails PaLau DaLMaSeS COCKtaiL bar4 Barri gÒtiC



Located on Carrer Montcada, just by the Picasso Museum, the Dalmases Palace is one of the most notable city palaces from the 16th century. This gorgeous palace of Baroque influence is a testimony to the artistic, political and cultural life of Catalunya. With live music every day it’s the perfect place to drink a cocktail and enjoy their live flamenco, opera and jazz show starting at 9.30pm.

Firstly there’s the food. Using only the finest quality ingredients, the kitchen specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with an international twist and plenty of options for vegetarians. Try their quinoa and tofu burgers or a sinful home-made dessert. Secondly, there’s Gut’s attention to detail and the friendly, respectful service. It’s the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the night in good company. Try it for yourself and find out why everyone is talking about Gut. 

Montcada 20 I Tel. 93 310 0673 espaibarroc@gmail.com I Open every day from 8pm

Perill 13 I Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 186 6360 I restaurantgut@gmail.com

Delivery LiLiburger4eiXaMPLe You can choose from four types of burger: classic, cheeseburger, barbecue as well as bacon cheese, for 8 to 9.50. Sides include fries, bbq chicken wings, chicken nuggets and salads. Free delivery. 

Tel. 93 458 0710 I Tue-Sun 1pm-4pm and 7pm-11pm www.liliburger.com

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FOOD & DRINK 43 Japanese - Sushi SaKura-Ya4Les Corts


Sakura-Ya is a serene-yet-busy little joint that combines a Japanese restaurant, bar, souvenir shop and food store. Located in L’illa shopping centre, at lunchtime it offers the very best traditional Japanese cuisine and take-away. The quality of the food is excellent, and so is the service. SakuraYa definitely lives up to its standards, so whenever you are in the mood for some shopping and good food, treat yourself to a Sakura-Ya experience. 

If you want to enjoy the best sushi service in the city, this is your place! Sushiexpress takes great pride in using top quality ingredients to ensure excellent sushi. They deliver to your home or hotel. You can choose individual pieces of maki, nigiri, sashimi, temaki, menus, combos, and other Japanese specialties from an extensive menu on their website. If you eat at any of their locations at noon the menus are accompanied by a free drink.  Consell de Cent 255, 08011 | Tel. 93 451 5454 Open Mon-Sat 12pm-4pm, 7pm-11pm Sun12-3pm, 7pm-11pm 365days/year! Delivery 1pm-3pm, 8pm-10.30pm

Diagonal 557, 08029 | Metro Mª Cristina/Les Corts Tel. 93 405 2645/93 430 48 90 | Fax. 93 430 3743 Restaurant Mon-Thurs 1pm-5pm, 6pm-9.30pm, Fri-Sat 1pm-9.30pm Shop Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm

Calle Santaló 55, 08021 Tues-Sat 9pm-3am Tel. 93 200 9293 www.sushiexpress.net

indian tOYO - SuSHi train4grÀCia


Among the youth it’s the most sought after Sushi Train Restaurant in Barcelona. It’s the absolute place to be if you’re in with the in crowd and always packed five minutes after opening. It has a quality buffet with super fresh food prepared daily, Toyo is the place to go. Not only do they have a huge amount of different types of dishes, but you can also eat as much as your heart desires. Choose what you like while it passes in front of you, you don’t have to spend a fortune to get great service. Toyo gives you amazing food for a good price. The midday menu is only 10 and the evening one is 15. 

Namaste was the first Indian restaurant in Barcelona. You will be able to enjoy authentic North Indian food in a lavish and exotically decorated interior. The secret of Namaste’s rich and authentic cuisine lies in the finest selection of delicate condiments cooked by professional Indian chefs, using the Tandoor cylindrical oven of Northern India—the best oven for keeping the juices and flavours of cooked food. Namaste has also carefully selected the best wines to accompany Indian food, including Indian wines. For beer lovers, Namaste has a wide range of European brands and Indian beers and liquors. 

Torrent del Olla 10 | Tel. 93 459 2630 www.restaurantetoyo.com Open 1.30pm-4pm, 8.30pm-Midnight Closed Mon night

Villarroel 70 | Tel. 93 451 4027 www.restaurantenamaste.com Open 1pm-4 pm, 8pm-12pm

indian - Hindu Veg WOrLD inDia4 grÀCia

naKaSHita4BorN Nakashita is Barcelona’s newest sushi restaurant, a cosy place where you can enjoy the best Japanese food and freshest seafood. Located close to the Arc de Triomf, the restaurant feels like an authentic Japanese tavern with a very intimate atmosphere. Enjoy your delicious food along with wine, Japanese beer or sake. 

Discover a world of sensations in a relaxed and homely atmosphere. Try vegetarian delicacies from all over the world such as delicious bread home-made in a Tandoori oven and south Indian dishes like Masala dosa and Idly. Daily continental and Indian menus, 9.95 inc. free soup and salad buffet in the lunchtime menu. 

Rec Comtal 15 | Metro Arc de Triomf Tel. 93 295 5378 | www.nakashitabcn.com Mon-Sun 1.30pm-4.30pm, 8.30pm-12am

Bruniquer 26 | Metro Joanic Tel. 93 210 7056 | Tues-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.30pm

italian iCHO4Les Corts Icho restaurant blends authentic Japanese cooking with the best Mediterranean products. This is an unequalled, exquisite and innovative gastronomic option, totally unique in Barcelona. The tasting menu is pure gastronomy fantasy—you will delight in an emotional journey beyond your senses. This restaurant breaks the mould of the existing impressions of modern Japanese gastronomy in Spain. 

Deu i Mata 69-95, 08029 | Metro Maria Cristina Tel. 93 444 3370 | reserves@ichobcnjapones.com www.ichobcnjapones.com Mon-Sat ,1.30pm-4pm and 9pm-11.30pm

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tratOria 4CUitaDeLLa viLa oLiMPiCa This new stylish and sophisticated restaurant presents the best of Italian cuisine with an international touch, based on extensive experience from working in London, New York and Miami. Whether you’re looking for a place to go with friends or your date after catching a film at the nearby Yelmo Icaria, or starting your evening out at the Port Olympic with an unbeatable value meal, La Trattoria del Mare is the place to go.  Avinguda d’Icària 132 | Tel. 93 221 9369 Metro Ciutadella Vila Olimpica www.trattoriadelmarebarcelona.com

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44 FOOD & DRINK Juice and Smoothie bar SanO 4grÀCia Barri gÒtiC - saNts

MagnOLia 4 Barri gÒtiC

Want a healthy, tasty alternative? Try a refreshing smoothie like Antioxidant, Mango & Passion Fruit or Coco Muesli (3.80) or a delicious juice made only with fresh blended fruit and no added water, milk or sugar (3.60). Can’t decide? Try one of their convenient combos from 4.50. 

In the heart of the Gothic quarter, Magnolia offers exquisite signature cuisine from chef Gianni Fusco at affordable prices. With its warm and loungy interior, it is the place of choice at any time of the day. During the week, breakfast and lunch menus attract huge crowds thanks to their great quality and reasonable prices. During the afternoon, clients can choose from a variety of tapas or enjoy mojitos for just 3.50.  Breakfast from 2.70, Lunch from 9. Dinner menu 17.95 (Sun-Thurs) 25 (Fri-Sat) Ciutat 5 | Metro Jaume I | 93 304 2376 | 691 504 942 noche@magnoliabarcelona.com | www.magnoliabarcelona.com | www.facebook.com/magnolia.rna Mon-Thurs 9am-1am, Fri 9am-3am, Sat 1pm-3am, Sun 1pm-1am

Gran de Gràcia 16 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 217 8115 | Jaume 1 | Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 310 3247 | Creu Coberta 50 Metro Espanya | Tel. 93 117 0891 Every day 10am-8pm | info@sanojuice.com | www.sanojuice.com

JuiCY JOneS 4Barri gÒtiC

FabuLa4 PoBLe seC

Barcelona’s emblematic juice bar now also serves vegan breakfast that includes tortilla de patata, muesli with raw cashew yogurt, muffins, waffles, coffee and tea. Chill out in the bar for smoothies or enjoy a sandwich or a full meal in the restaurant. 


Located in a trendy new area of the city, this restaurant offers Mediterranean cuisine. They have a great three-course menu del día for 10.20 (and at night you can enjoy traditional Spanish dishes and half rations from la carta.) Their special ‘afterwork’ offer lets you enjoy two excellent promotions: A glass of wine together with a special Fabula toast for 4.50, and/or a glass of cava (Brut Nature) alongside a duo of salmon and anchovies for 5. They also have a private room that is available for group bookings. 

Cardenal Casañas 7 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 302 4330 Every day 10am-midnight

Mediterranean barnabier4Port oLÍMPiC Located at the base of the Mapfre tower at Port Olimpic Barnabier specialise in Mediterranean cuisine, paellas, fresh seafood, tapas and have a great list of international beers. Their fantastic menu also includes salads, grilled meat and pasta with something to suit all tastes. For group reservations consult their website for the complete menu. 

Parlament 1 | Metro Poble Sec | Tel. 93 292 6209 info@restaurantefabula.es www.restaurantefabula.es

Marina 16 | Metro Port Olimpic Tel. 93 221 0212 | www.barnabier.com

Mexican VinDa4Barri gÒtiC Vinda is a fantastic Mexican bar and restaurant that is famous for its amazing margaritas, daiquiris and mojitos. Located in the heart of the Gothic quarter, they offer an incredible selection of Mexican dishes and tapas that will put you in the mood for an unforgettable night out on the town. Ask the cocktail barman for recommendations! 

Regomir 4 I Metro Jaume 1 Tel. 93 319 8956 Mon-Sun 6pm -2am I vindabar@gmail.com

tapas / Mediterranean PatXOCa 4BorN This fantastic restaurant has tapas and traditional dishes that use local and seasonal produce, including vegetarian options, all prepared in a home-cooking style. Enjoy a daily menu from Monday till Saturday, and brunch on Sunday! Patxoca also has a beautiful terrace on a pedestrianised street, with a child’s play area just next door. They don’t use MSG. 

Tel. 93 319 2029 | Mercaders 28 Close to Santa Caterina market Mon-Sat 10am-2am, Sun 10am-3pm, 8pm-midnight

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FOOD & DRINK 45 Thai Thai gracia4GRÀCIA Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 11 menú del día is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more. 

Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV

Vegetarian amaltea4EIXAMPLE E

Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant, where a warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day 10.70, night and weekend menu 15.30.  Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.amalteaygovinda.com Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun


Bun bo ViÊtnam4RAVAL Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes. Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace. The kitchen is open non-stop all day. 

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, nonalcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. 

Plaça Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

Dels Angels 6, 08001 | Tel. 93 412 1890 | Mon-Thurs 1pm-12am, Sat-Sun 1pm-1am www.bunbovietnam.com

JUICY JONES – VEGAN RESTAURANT 4Raval Barcelona’s best vegan restaurant , Juicy Jones never compromises on freshness or quality. They serve a range of Mediterranean and Indian cuisine with a funky ambience they also offer a large variety of freshly squeezed fruit juices and smoothies. Don’t be fooled by imitations. Go Juicy!  Hospital 74 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 443 9082 Every day 12pm-5pm, 8pm-1am

Vietnamese la vietnamita 4GRÀCIA La Vietnamita is a new food concept in the heart of Gràcia, offering fresh and healthy Vietnamese inspired cuisine. They serve light and nutritious dishes such as traditional ‘Pho’ soup, the typical rice noodle dish ‘Bun Xiau’ and classic ‘Goi Cuon’ spring rolls. All their dishes are prepared in the moment and served with ingredients that are naturally full of flavour. Veggies and vegans: they have a lot to offer you, too! So what are you waiting for?  Torrent de l’Olla 78 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 93 518 1803 | www.lavietnamita.com

Addis Abeba 4sants This fantastic restaurant offers wholesome food served in the traditional Ethiopian way. Importing fresh ingredients and using top-quality local meat, the food is prepared with an exciting range of over 25 herbs and spices creating an incredible range of tastes and flavours. Their combination plates offer an excellent way for groups to try a variety of dishes to give you the true taste of Ethiopia. If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll love the huge selection of dishes on offer too. 

Vallespir 44 | Metro Sants Estacio | Tel. 93 409 4037 Mon-Fri 8pm-12am, Sat 2pm-4pm, 8pm-12am

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Bun bo ViÊtnam4Barri Gòtic Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes. Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace. The kitchen is open non-stop all day. 

Sagristans 3 | Metro Urquinaona | Tel. 93 301 1378 | www.bunbovietnam.com Every day 1pm-1am

9/25/12 3:49:39 PM

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Business directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Scissors of London BRITISH HAIRDRESSER

Tim aspires to listen to your needs and suggests how they might be met in distinctive and exciting ways. Style is unique and Tim will craft you a look achieving a harmony of shape and style. Tim has been hairdressing for over 12 years. Having trained, taught and worked in London’s top salons including Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon. Opting out of salon life, Tim works to fit in with the modern pace of life and offers a one to one service orientated around your needs. Carrer Viladomat 45-47, Atico M. 633 382 787 timbulmer@btinternet.com www.scissorsofldn.com


* Discount for Metropolitan readers.

Kinki - HAIRDRESSER Kinki peluqueros is an 15% OFF international hairstyling group from Holland with over 40 salons in their home country. They put their heart and soul into cutting and colouring the most beautiful hairstyles, from the latest trends to classic cuts. If you bring a friend for a full treatment they will give you both a 15% discount and a free glass of cava. English, Spanish, Dutch, German and French speaking. Pintor Fortuny 14, Raval Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3) T. 93 302 3379 www.kinkipeluqueros.es Open Mon 4pm-8pm, Tues-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-8pm

La Hair Boutique -


Trained by Toni & Guy London, Veronique runs a friendly salon with a dedicated team who speak English, Spanish, French and Swedish. La Hair Boutique is a relaxed and cosy salon that offers progressive cuts and colours with great style advice too. They are especially talented at creating new, personalised looks using the latest techniques.

Plaça Regomir 5 Metro: Jaume 1 (L4). T. 93 269 1937 M. 699 643 462 www.hairboutiquebarcelona.com

The Vital Touch Anthony Llobet English Hair Salon - HAIRDRESSER Don’t let your Spanish come between you and your hair. Anglo-Catalan Anthony Llobet has over 20 years’ experience in hairstyling and a passion for excellent client service. Anthony leads a dedicated team of stylists who specialise in a variety of services, including Afro hair, extensions, straightening and make-up (and speak over 11 languages between them). The original retro interior and friendly staff create a very special atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy a stylish cut. Put your trust in Anthony and the team, who are strongly committed to providing you with outstanding service at affordable prices. Barceloneta, Almirall Churruca 8 T. 93 221 1612 / M. 619 224 695 Gràcia, Ros de Olano 19 T. 93 218 0449 / M. 692 371 307 Raval, Sant Pau 122 T. 93 441 3177 / M. 692 371 308 El Born, Carders 34 T.93 295 4871 / M. 692 371 404 Gòtic, Avinyó 34 T. 93 301 4513 / M. 692 371 405 www.anthonyllobet.com

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The Vital Touch Massage Clinic helps stressed women and men, to relax, energise, re-balance and improve their health and lifestyle with a therapeutic, holistic full-body massage. - Deep tissue massage with Japanese acupressure points. - Helps relieve tension, reduces stress and removes physical strains. - Hot stone massage also available - Central Barcelona location. *10% off for Metropolitan readers. M. 659 995 657 nunu@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

9/25/12 2:07:03 PM



VeterCat Melisa Oddo


The best at-home veterinary care for your pet in the province of Barcelona. French and English-speaking veterinarian. Vaccination, general medicine, behaviour problems, emergencies, etc. Thanks to her love for animals, Melisa Oddo offers you the best vet service in your home. Try it for yourself and be impressed.

They are experienced and trustworthy cat sitters, and can provide your cat with the love and care you usually give them every day. In your home cat sitting only. First visit to meet you and your cat is free! They operate only in Barcelona.

M. 620 157 753 melisa@vetercat.es www.vetercat.es

M. 615 359 256 www.weloveyourcat.com weloveyourcat@gmail.com

Pharmacy Serra Mandri


The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service. Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care for the English-speaking community in Barcelona with access to all medical specialties and tests. His practice includes mental health. Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro: Les Corts (L3) T. 93 330 2412 M. 627 669 524 googol@hotmail.es www.googolmedicalcentre.com Open Mon-Sat

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Clínica Dental Image -

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

SPECIAL First visit, free “check up” and quote. OFFER Payment plans available for every treatment. Have a natural smile with beautifully designed non metal crowns. Offer of the month: Dental implants for 499 Call now for details.


Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 FGC Diagonal or Gràcia

Sardenya 502 T. 93 192 4050 Metro: Alfonso X (L4) Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-2pm, 4pm-8.30pm

Dr. Christian Eickhoff deutsche zk - DENTIST

Clínica Caballero Friedlander - DENTIST

Highly recommended among the international SPECIAL community, they use OFFER the latest in dental technology like digital prosthetics and orthodontics. The whole German team is English speaking and the doctor has an American training in implantology and orthodontics. Check-ups and X-rays are free. Centrally located.

If you’ve always wanted to have a beautiful smile, but don’t want to wear visible metal braces, they have the solution for you. They’ll be pleased to help by creating an ideal treatment concept for you using Incognito® invisible lingual braces or invisalign® clear braces. Call them for a free evaluation visit:

Consell de Cent 249, bajos Metro Universitat (L1/L2) T. 93 323 9629 info@deutsche-zk.com

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We Love Your Cat -


Puigmarti 33, Local 2 T. 93 237 0287 info@clinicacf.com www.ortodoncia-barcelona.com www.clinicacf.com

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Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST For all your dental needs, a team consisting of our first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. We have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you our services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Rosselló 95, local, 08029, Barcelona Metro: Hospital Clinic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220 www.clinicadentalcampi.com/ susanacampi1980@gmail.com

InnOrbit - HERBAL PRODUCTS Their infusions taste delicious and complement a healthy lifestyle. They have created four blends using 100 percent naturally-grown herbs and spices. The recipes are based on Ayurvedic medicine and endorsed by modern science. UP&GO: Ideal for sport and exercise. YOUNG&FUN: Enhances memory and promotes concentration. CALM&RELAX: Relieves stress. SLIM&FIT: Helps to maintain a healthy weight.

T. 93 814 0287 andy@innorbit.com www.innorbit.com

Ana Barredo - NUTRITIONIST Do you want to improve your nutritional health? Ana can help you, as a nutritionist with many years of experience. All you need is a consultation and if you want, she can monitor your progress. Change your lifestyle and improve your health, because we are what we eat!

Tingsvall & McCarthy -

DENTIST & DENTAL HYGIENIST This eco-friendly clinic promotes great patient care using natural products. The Swedish-trained dentist Dr. Stefan Tingsvall is on hand to provide a very caring way of treating people—he solves the problem and gets the job done. Qualified USA-trained dental hygienist Elena McCarthy provides education on preventive care using effective herbal rinses and essential oils. She also offers the leading teeth whitening treatment ‘Brite Smile’. Castellnou 47 T. 93 205 1903 M. 636 312 522 / 696 664 430 FGC Les Tres Torres (L6) Bus: 16, 30, 66, 70, 72, 74 tingsvall.mccarthy@gmail.com www.tingsvall-mccarthy.com

Tania Spearman -


€15 OFF

Make acupuncture your first choice, not your last resort! Tania is offering all Metropolitan readers a 15 discount on first appointments with this voucher. Acupuncture treats many conditions from pain, stress and depression to fertility and more. Call now to make your appointment or to see if acupuncture is right for you. Tania is a UK university trained acupuncturist with her own clinic in the centre of Barcelona. English, Spanish and German spoken. Enric Granados 133, 4-1 bis 08008 M. 644 322 161 info@taniaspearman.com www.taniaspearman.com

Kathryn McConkey -


Kathryn McConkey is a fully-qualified, English- (and Spanish-) speaking osteopath in Barcelona, based at Aralia Centre Mèdic, and a member of the Spanish Registrar of Osteopaths. Osteopathy can be beneficial for cases of acute or chronic neck and back pain and tendonitis, as well as for digestive disorders, headaches, insomnia and much more. Treatments are apt for all age groups, including children and the elderly.

Sant Hermenegild 26, 4o 2a 08006 M. 679 743 274. ana.bm79@gmail.com

M. 609 143 690 mcconkey.katy@gmail.com

Jonathan Lane Hooker -


Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialising in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.


T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

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M. 644 193 825 ncross@copc.es

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Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team work with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese and Greek and the first consultation is free.

Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

Paloma Azpilicueta -


English-speaking clinical psychologist and psychotherapist. Forty years of professional experience with adults, children and adolescents. She has worked in both the public and private sectors in mental health as well as in education and social issues. Psychodynamic orientation.

Barcelona: T. 93 415 6646 Mataro: T. 93 799 6596 solazpi@ya.com www.centrepsicologiamataro.com

Eugenia Espinosa -

Krishinda Powers Duff

Eugenia is a dedicated professional who specialises in psychological issues related to immigration. She offers effective treatment for mood and anxiety disorders as well as couples and family therapy. The first consultation with Eugenia is free.

Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation service. She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. Midwife means ‘to be with woman’.


Bsc Hons - Midwife

M. 665 143 437 M. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com

Clustermedica Laser treatment The B-Cure laser provides relief and treatment for a wide range of orthopedic problems in the neck, back and joints that generally result from bad posture, excessive use of a computer keyboard or sports injuries. Now you can stop pain and heal the source with just a six-minute treatment, twice a day. It’s ready to use anywhere, lightweight and rechargeable. If you’re suffering from this type of injury, then call now or visit their website for more information. T. 90 210 6989 Vidal i Guash 13 clustermedica@clustermedica.com www.clustermedica.com

Vanessa Pascual interior designer

Vanessa Pascual a trained interior designer from the School of Design, University of Vic. Her projects are tailored to the needs of each client under the concept of functionality, beauty and design for everyone. Since 2008 she has run her own firm with a strong team of technical, industrial and design staff, who work closely together, offering their customers a wide range of options and solutions to make their dreams come true. T. 93 841 8021 www.vanessapascual.com

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Marenostrum Centre de Salut familiar

Fontanella 16 Principal, 08010 krishinda@gmail.com

Terraza Barcelona CaRpentry

Dirk has a passion for creating affordable carpentry designs for both interior and exterior spaces. From terrace decks to planters, pergolas to storage sheds, he will impress you with the quality of his work. Wooden furniture for: garden, terrace, balcony, living, bedroom, bathroom, office - you name it, he makes it! Everything is custom made - choose from one of his designs or bring your own ideas. Please contact Dirk for an obligation-free quotation. M. 657 452 279 info@terrazabarcelona.es www.terrazabarcelona.es

Graham Collins Interior Design

Graham Collins is an experienced interior designer and property consultant and can help with everything concerning property, design and decoration. So, whether you need help working out the property market or are looking for someone to renovate your home, Graham is here to help you.

Consolat del Mar 35, 3er Metro: Barceloneta (L4) M. 678 757 511 grahamcollinsbcn@gmail.com www.grahamcollinsbcn.com

9/25/12 2:07:10 PM


Lugaris - PROPERTY

Aspasios Rentals & Services - PROPERTY

The best option to live and work in Barcelona. Brand new, modern furnished and bright apartments. In Poblenou, a few metres from Bogatell beach and very close to the 22@ district. Privileged services such as swimming pool, parking, security, cleaning and free WI-FI, to make your stay more confortable. Use this promotional code to get 10% off your next booking. Code: 20CM12

Staying at Aspasios in Barcelona and Madrid is the perfect way to enjoy Spain. Feel at home in a new city while staying in a luxurious furnished apartment. Aspasios provides accommodation for days, months or years. They offer check-in at any time and day of the year as well as a 24hr phone service. Aspasios has multicultural staff willing to welcome you in different languages.

Vidal y Valenciano, 14 T. 93 221 9159 info@lugaris.com www.lugaris.com

Adriana Romero T. 93 304 1448 info@aspasios.com www.aspasios.com

Spaces for rent - PROPERTY


Hotel Onix offer a range of rooms and spaces for rent at a low price. Perfect for a variety of classes and events like yoga, theatre, dancing, business meetings, seminars and rehearsals. They have different sized rooms at Liceu, Plaça Catalunya and Plaça Espanya that are both clean and comfortable with central heating, A/C, tables and chairs to suit your needs. You can rent their space by the hour, half or full day, weeks or months. For more information please call Jubran.

VanBCN offers experience, good service and inexpensive rates to make your move or removal safe and easy. Whether you are looking for man with a van for a quick move or if you want to do a complete removal, just call or send your request online. VanBCN adapts its service to your needs. They can pick up your stuff or take it to the port, airport or storage. Deliver home your purchases from IKEA or any other shop. Move your office, your room or your house. Just contact VanBCN. They know how to do it. T. 93 426 7684 M. 647 533 344 www.vanbcn.com

T. 93 303 4154 events@hotelsonix.com

Benjamin Franklin -

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL The Benjamin Franklin International School in Barcelona offers a differentiated American curriculum from nursery to grade 12, which includes English language preparation for college education, foreign language programs and learning support. It is fully accredited with strong academic programs, such as the American High School Diploma, Spanish Baccalaureate Certificate and the IB Diploma. It also has an active parent-teacher association and a welcoming global community. Martorell i Peña 9 T. 93 434 2380 F. 93 417 3633 www.bfischool.org



BCN L.I.P. Languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.

T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

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Versión Original -

Spanish for foreigners


5% OFF

The experienced teachers at Versión Original are thrilled to share their enthusiasm for the Spanish language and culture. This small city centre school, with classes of no more than 10 students, is devoted to languages, especially Spanish. There’s a great atmosphere here and a 5% discount for Metropolitan readers.

Gran Via 636, 1o 1a A Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 412 4576 info@versionoriginalbcn.com www.versionoriginalbcn.com

One-to-One -

SPANISH CLASSES Learn exactly what you need with one-to-one Spanish classes in the office or at home. Focus your classes on the language and vocabulary that best serves you according to your own personal or professional needs. Business Spanish and small group classes are also available. Get confident in Spanish with Pilar.

M. 610 057 266

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Idiomplus offers a revolutionary new method of learning languages by utilising social media as an additional online tool so you can learn the content you are most interested in. Their courses are designed especially for professionals, entrepreneurs and managers who require the command of new languages. By practising with relevant content and conversations that fit your interests and work needs you will quickly be able to put your new skills into practical use.

Study Spanish in one of Spain’s most established and prestigious language schools. Since 1982 Metropol have provided high-quality language training to students of all nationalities. The school is right in the heart of Barcelona city centre and it’s a great place to learn or improve your Spanish. It’s a popular and specialised school, with more than 27 years of experience and they offer great value Spanish courses for all levels.

T. 93 445 1791 Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 583 5ª www.Idiomplus.com info@idiomplus.com

T. 93 301 8241 Pau Claris 87, 1o1a Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) www.bcnmetropol.com


Kingsbrook -

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

Kingsbrook have been helping people learn Spanish in a simple, pleasant and fun way since 1985. The school is located in the heart of Barcelona and has a team of experienced and dedicated staff. In order to create an optimal learning environment, the school ensures that classes have only between 7-10 students.



Trav. de Gràcia 60 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) T. 93 209 3763 info@kingsbrookbcn.com www.kingsbrookbcn.com

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

Mrs.Q design studio - GRAPHIC DESIGN Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services from branding to graphic design, web design, ceramics, photography and bespoke invitations. Whether you have a new concept in mind that you want to see brought to life or need assistance rebranding your company, contact Mrs.Q design studio. They are happy to help you every step of the way to make sure you get the exact look you’re looking for. They specialise in bespoke wedding invitations, tailor-made to suit the style of your wedding. Match your wedding invitations with save the dates, menus, place cards and thank you cards to create a polished look. They are now offering wedding stationary packages. At Mrs.Q design studio they love to design creative, engaging brand identities that help their clients flourish. They will help you bring some of your personality to your brand and use their knowledge of colour, passion for typography and creative flair to create an identity that engages your customers. M. 699 260 938 mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com

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MT Sailing - SAILING COURSES RYA Sailing and powerboat courses. Always wanted to get on the water, but didn’t know how? Now you can! MT Sailing is an RYA training centre right here in Barcelona, offering theory and practical courses at all levels from Start Yachting or Powerboat all the way to professional Yachtmaster Ocean. Internationally recognized qualifications are taught and examined in English. During classes, support is available in Spanish. Their flexible course schedules include intensive, weekend and evenings. To discuss your sailing ambitions, call Michael 695 806 029. Start your adventure today!

T. 695 806 029/646 654 067 sail@mtf.com www.mtf.com.

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BritSat offer great television packages so you’ll never have to miss your favourite TV programmes again. Craving a bit of classic comedy, your favourite soap or just fed up of feeling out of the loop of the best TV at home? BritSat will install the full package you choose for a great price. Take your pick from some of the best television in Europe as they install British, Dutch, German, Italian and French satellite TV. The team will create tailor-made installations to suit your requirements, always aiming to find the most discreet location for the dish and cables. BritSat provides excellent customer care and can also incorporate sound systems and multi-screen viewing.

NEW! NEW! NEW! Not allowed a satellite dish? Now we can supply all your favourite uk tv channels including all sports and films over the internet. No dish needed! Specialists in satellite TV, HD, audiovisual and unmatched for quality and reliability. For a personal, efficient and friendly service call the specialists. Our professional team provides satellite television from across Europe at unbeatable prices!

M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

Spain Accounting -

Tax AND Accounting services


Qualified UK accountant with 25 years experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service

Call David Cook 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com


Brumwell Brokers -


Tired of being out the loop on the best documentaries or are you a secret soap fan? Or, maybe you’re just missing your favourite television programmes from home. There’s no need to miss out anymore—now you can see all of your favourite channels here in Barcelona! Europa Digital are licensed and fully insured to install all satellite systems, including a whole range of channels from BBC HD, Freesat, itv hd, Sky, Sky 3d, Sky Sports and many more. They can also supply all European systems and viewing cards. They were the first company to start operating in Catalunya and, as well as private installations, they have worked for hotel groups and put multi-systems in apartment blocks.The experienced and professional team give friendly advice to ensure that you receive the best package to suit your needs. They are the only company of their kind with a registered office and a 24-hour helpline. Visit their showroom before you buy or call them now for a free quotation. They are fully licensed and insured.

They not only care about your wellbeing, they “insure” it. With over 20 years of experience under their belts they can help you with all your insurance needs. Working with most insurance companies they guarantee you the best quote and best cover for what you need. They can even insure your bicycle!! Brumwell Brokers’ service team can also help you with tax, accounting, legal and labour laws. (Set ups, Autonomos).

Floridablanca 78 Metro: Sant Antoni (L2) T. 93 325 1797 M. 666 556 452 Sant Josep, 32, Sitges T. 93 894 72 99 www.europadigital.tv admin@europadigital.tv

Pl. Gal-la Placidia 1-3 08006 T. 90 262 7810 F. 90 262 7811

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Cogesa - INSURANCE Don’t wait until it’s too late! Do you feel secure in Barcelona? Are you still insured in your home country? Do you travel? Spanish not fluent yet? Do you want to feel safe and carefree in Barcelona no matter what? Cogesa makes sure to find you personalized and price worthy insurance solutions for your every need. They also speak Dutch, Swedish, Finnish, German and French.

Continental Wealth Management WEALTH MANAGEMENT

The group has over 30 years’ experience of giving professional, customtailored financial advice to expatriates on a global basis. They handle all aspects of wealth management, including investment portfolios, QROPS pension transfers and insurance. Their team of advisors can provide a no-obligation review to assess your circumstances and help you to make the right choices for a secure and profitable future.

Diputació 262 T. 93 342 4896 foreignresidents@cogesa.es www.cogesaforeignresidents.es

Av. Del Pla, 128 2 - 202 03730 Javea Alicante T. 96 646 2875 M. 665 362 944 www.continentalwealth.com

Sánchez Molina -

Green Bean Coaching -

The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Green Bean coaches small and medium-sized business owners and entrepreneurs proven business techniques that have helped thousands of businesses boost their sales, increase profits and hit their company goals. They will coach you to implement the strategies you need to move to the next business level.


Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com


T. 93 112 6757 M. 693 940 701 explore@freegreenbeans.com www.freegreenbeans.com


This company provides assistants who can help you with daily tasks and provide language support if you are not confident speaking Spanish. You can delegate your chores, however large or small, to their staff with total confidence, giving you complete confidence and peace of mind about the organisation of all your appointments and events. They have impeccable references from their clients. Contact them today to discuss your requirements. Ganduxer nº14, Desp 9 
08021 T. 93 539 6106
 M. 666 816 168


Find everything you need here!

The Spectrum IFA Group creates and provides financial planning solutions for expatriates and foreign residents. Their experienced and qualified team in Barcelona can help you with all aspects of finance including: • Pensions/ Retirement Planning • Savings & Investments • Life Cover • Health Insurance • Currency Exchange • Mortgages • Tax Planning • Asset Management They are regulated financial planners with offices in seven European countries, dedicated to providing the best advice and solution for each individual client. Please email or call them to arrange an initial, no-obligation introductory meeting.

T. 93 665 8596 Passeig de Gràcia 63, Principal 2A barcelona@spectrum-ifa.com

In our online directory of English-speaking businesses in Barcelona www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/directory

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Job directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

For the latest jobs for English speakers in Barcelona, follow us on Twitter @WorkInBarcelona

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Trick or sweep


t’s a perennial dilemma: dress up like a ghoul or put on an apron and slippers. The ghostly accoutrements of the undead or a practical solution to bleach and dust. In other words, is your preference for worm-eaten rags on Halloween or sensible protective clothing the day after, for All Hallows or All Saints, when Catalan tradition dictates you go and spring clean—or rather autumn clean—the graves of your loved ones. No two consecutive days in the calendar articulate the difference between ancient and modern so clearly as the last day of October and the first of November. Like Valentine’s day, Halloween in its current guise is a cultural import as foreign to Barcelona as mojitos and McDonald’s. Of course, it is embraced just as warmly as both, and for similar reasons. Romanticised by Hollywood schlockbusters, there’s a lingering suspicion that Halloween is driven largely by a commercial imperative to sell witch costumes and plastic bats, rather than just marzipan cakes. But dressing up in funny costumes comes easily enough here,

whether for Carnaval or the Festa Major of your neighbourhood, so why miss an autumn opportunity to blow the cobwebs off your fancy dress box? Just make sure you keep those cobwebs. They’ll come in handy for your witch’s outfit. Trick-or-Treating, though, is more tricky and less of a treat when everyone lives in apartment blocks. It rather ruins the surprise if you have to press an intercom button and explain who you are and what you want: “Hi, it’s the undead, and we want your soul. Or a handful of sweets. Otherwise we’ll curse you. Or maybe just throw eggs at your windows.” Except those windows are probably four stories up. Even daubing your victim’s car in flour is tricky when it’s in a subterranean car park protected by CCTV. And you can forget about kidnapping your victim’s cat. In fairness, though, if Trick-or-Treating is difficult, simple crime is a lot easier on Halloween, the one night of the year when shady figures in masks don’t arouse suspicion. Whatever you get up to, though, rather than

hang out at the cemetery in the dark dressed as the Grim Reaper, the more traditional option is to go the following day, in broad daylight, armed with feather dusters, aprons and bathroom cleaner. It’s an odd form of remembrance, turning up en masse and setting about your loved one’s grave with window polish, a response that is typically brisk and businesslike, halfway between filling in your tax returns and going to cheer on Barça. But then Catalan cemeteries are very businesslike, a form of filing system arranged into stacks and shelves, all as easily located as the history section of your local library. No overgrown tombs and fallen columns, no misshapen trees to throw terrifying shadows in the dark, and less fear of the dead emerging from their graves when the grave in question is in a niche several metres above ground. Perhaps even the risen dead need ladders sometimes. A culture’s traditions say a lot about their culture, which is why artificial imports feel awkward. If only they weren’t so much fun. --Roger de Flower

HOROSCOPE Aries You’re facing some interesting choices and it won’t always be obvious which is the best path. Take time out for some serious reflection. It may be best to ignore advice from your nearest and dearest.

Taurus The last few months

Gemini Finances are good so you can loosen the belt a little and enjoy some luxuries. Single Geminis may find romance somewhere unexpected, whilst those in a relationship will enjoy harmony with their partner.

Cancer October brings lots of social opportunities your way. You could meet people who become very important to you, so keep your mind open. This is also a good time to be rethinking some career issues.

Leo A great month for financial investments. After some busy and sometimes tiring months, you’ll enjoy renewed energy and a clear mind. Make the most of this and apply it to the projects you’re working on.

Virgo You’ll have lots of energy

Libra People will be impressed by your clear thinking and innovative ideas this month. So, if there’s an idea that you want to pitch to someone, now could be your time. Career issues also need your attention.

Scorpio Finances are less tight now, but you should still make sure you stay in control. You’ll get some attention from someone you always considered just a friend. Don’t take it too seriously as it could get complicated.

Sagittarius There may be some

Capricorn This is a great month

Aquarius You need some time to yourself just to figure out where you’re going and what you want. A weekend away would be a tonic right now for mind and body, either by yourself or with a close friend.

Pisces There may be some upheavals coming soon and you’re going to need to keep a calm head. Everything will be for the best so long as you can plan well and deal with any unexpected issues.

stress at work, but this also gives you an opportunity to prove yourself. Some unexpected travel is on the horizon so be ready to go at a moment’s notice. Take good care of your health.

have been a welcome diversion but it’s time to buckle down and get some big issues resolved. It’s also the moment to get your house in order and throw out belongings you no longer need.

this month, so why not do something you’ve always wanted to do. There’s no time like the present for fulfilling dreams. You’ll meet some new people in the process.

for reconnecting with friends, particularly people you haven’t seen for a long time. They’ll be very glad to hear from you. Some extra effort at work will be much appreciated.

scoop By Ben Rowdon

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Profile for Barcelona Metropolitan

Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 189  

The future of Catalunya’s sovereignty continues to make headlines here and abroad, and early Generalitat elections or a referendum on the su...

Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 189  

The future of Catalunya’s sovereignty continues to make headlines here and abroad, and early Generalitat elections or a referendum on the su...