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Features 14 20 24

Behind the Kings’ Day parade Bidding Barcelona farewell forever


Choosing the right kind of seafood

Regulars 06 07 08 11 13 19 22 28 58

On our web An inside look The month How to: entertain visitors on the cheap Fashion: ASVOFF Interview: Maria Helena de Felipe Photo collage: Food Ideas: Culture, Gastronomy, Escape the city...


Back page

Directories 39 44 54

Food & Drink Business Jobs

From the Senior Editor: January in Barcelona is a time for reflection, making plans and, of course, lots of very excited children. Amanda August spoke to some of those involved in putting together the annual Kings’ Day parade as well as some of those impatiently waiting for the three monarchs to arrive. One matter some of you may be reflecting on is whether to stay in Barcelona; with the financial crisis hitting hard, the number of foreigners living here has fallen recently and Carrie Frais asked five former residents about their motives for leaving. If you’re planning to make resolutions this year (a subject Roger de Flower muses on), perhaps it will be to be more aware when making choices about what seafood to eat in the face of depleting stocks; Lara Cummings guides you around what’s OK to eat and what’s definitely not. Elsewhere we look at a new fashion film festival, places to go for a relaxing weekend away and entertaining visitors without having to dig too deep. Hannah Pennell

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Esther Jones Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Art Director Aisling Callinan Sales Director Rainer Hobrack Account Executives Richard Cardwell and Montse Prims Financial Manager Andrea Moreno Editorial Assistants Max Bentley and Lauren Reed Design Assistant Isolda Piza Sales Assistants Tashoma Lemard and Chloe Pera Contributors Amanda August, Jonathan Bennett, Lara Cummings, Roger de Flower, Carrie Frais, Josephine Novak, Will Shank, Tara Stevens, Nicola Thornton Photographers Richard Owens and Lee Woolcock Cover photo Claudio Bianchi Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial Office: Ciutat 7 2º 4ª, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; Advertising: General enquiries: Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Find your nearest distribution point on

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on our web

ENGLISH-LANGUAGE THEATRE EXTRAVAGANZA! Theatre lovers have much to celebrate this month with two English-language productions being staged at La Riereta. David Mamet’s classic Glengarry Glen

Ross (pictured) is being given a radical re-telling by the 12X12 Theatre Company, with an all-female cast for a story written with all male parts (14th and 15th, 21st and 22nd). Then there’s Playing With

Fire, a contemporary drama set here in Barcelona performed by The English Drama School and written and directed by its founder, Julian Wickham (19th and 20th). Find more details in our online listings.

WIN FREE TICKETS: We have two pairs of tickets to give away to see 12X12’s production of Glengarry Glen Ross, one for each weekend of the run. To have

the chance to win one of the pairs, go to the page

CULTURE PICKS FOR 2012 The start of another year and 12 untouched months of music, art, dance, theatre and film lie ahead of us. They can be a tad overwhelming, all those culture options, and of course you don’t want to miss out on some hidden gems. So we asked our regular culture writers to give us their picks for 2012. As well as the lovely Björk playing at Primavera Sound, our contributors chose Algerian Ballet at Mercat de les Flors, the DHUB permanent exhibition at the Palau de Pedralbes and the Delacroix exhibition at CaixaForum. Read the full selection online now and look out for related reviews, interviews and previews in upcoming issues. THIS MONTH’S GUEST BLOGGER is Julie Sheridan. She’s been writing her ‘guirigirlinbarca’ blog since last June having moved here from her native Scotland in April. So far, her postings have covered themes including saints, personal space issues and the ‘differences’ between expats and immigrants. You can read her musings at:

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below and answer the question you’ll find there:

Interview Lauren Reed spoke to Rose Skerpac, an amazing 88-year-old American who’s lived here for 20 years and has a role in the recently-released Spanish film, Fuga de Cerebros 2. Read all about it here: roseskerpac

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An inside look Photographer Claudio Bianchi

I’m a Mexican-Italian living in Barcelona. I grew up in Toronto, Canada and am addicted to documenting city streets all over the world. I started shooting more and more when I started travelling to Mexico City and exploring that beast on my own. After that, I got hooked. Moving to Europe has allowed me to build up a wonderful stack of images and from here I plan on branching out more and more. I think I mainly do this so I can show you some of the things we tend to miss and let you take it all in with one shot. Barcelona is a playground for my eyes and where the elderly have style. I never miss the opportunity to eat a fat bowl of Pho at Bun Bo. I always avoid really drunk tourists. A view: All streets that let you see twilight rip through them— golden texture is like no other. A building: I really like how Barcelona mixes old with new architecture. So many ways to screw that up but this city nailed it. An inspiration: There’s a lot of creative minds in this city that blow me away every single day. A place to go with friends: Sant Pol de Mar, or any beach outside of the city. On my to-do list: Still haven’t been to the Sagrada Família— that line to get in scares me. Hopefully soon though.

About the cover: The cover was taken in Raval; there’s a few streets in that area that always allow for interesting shadow traffic. Even shadows share each other’s company.

Interested in featuring your photographs or illustrations in our magazine? Email us at

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SNAPSHOTS Perfect for anyone looking to get the most out of their camera, Photo & The City is a new walking tour around Barcelona with a difference: participants are accompanied by a professional photographer to show you the ropes. Whether you have a cheap, simple camera or a fancy Nikon with all sorts of bells and whistles, the experienced guide will be there to show you the best angles, hidden nooks of Barcelona and tricks to improve your photographic skills. To tailor the experience as much as possible to your preferences, Photo & The City offers several different levels and subject matters in varying locations around Barcelona; each tour lasts four hours and will cost you €55.

Love-hate relationship The latest social network is Bananity, a site produced out of Barcelona that promises more privacy and security than Facebook as well as a more personalised experience overall. Here’s how it works: each user categorises any topic from books to video games to infidelity into things they ‘love’ and things they ‘hate’. The idea is to match up people who love and hate the same things, allowing you to create an online network of people who share your interests. Bananity also offers suggestions of other things for you to love or hate based on your original preferences. The founders (two are pictured right along with Bananity’s sponsor, the tv presenter Andreu Buenafuente) believe that by eliminating the privacy risks that other social networks present, users can have more fun and find people just like them who they may not have otherwise met. A safe way to discover new people with similar tastes? We’re intrigued.

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Growing exposure

Cover image of Mambo #1 © Eugenio Siliceo

Mambo is an online photographic magazine that is publishing its first hard-copy edition in bilingual format this month. Focusing on the work of photographers from Spain, Portugal, Brazil, Mexico, Argentina and Peru, the magazine, which is based in Barcelona, has already had great web success during the past year and is now heading into the world of paper production with bi-monthly issues costing €9.95 a time. Director José Alemany describes Mambo as an outlet for young photographers to get published in a world where photography is not always valued, artistically. The digital version of the magazine is still free online, where you can also order a single print copy or an annual subscription, both with a 30 percent discount.

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See the city on the cheap Max Bentley looks at how you can entertain your guests in Barcelona without breaking the bank. 1. FOR COOL FRIENDS: ART SHOW OPENINGS Barcelona has become one of Europe’s most artistic cities thanks to its enthusiasm for the arts and captivating juxtaposition of ancient and modern architecture. So if you’ve got visitors coming who’ve seen all the usual sights, why not let them feel like a real part of the city by enjoying a night of exhibition inaugurations? On most Thursday evenings, from around 8pm, if you head to the galleries that dot the streets of Enric Granados, Consell de Cent and Aragó, you’re likely to find a plethora of openings taking place, which are free and often offer complimentary drinks. You may even find yourself rubbing shoulders with the artist and you never know, if they’re taken with what they see, your guest may end up taking home a more original souvenir than a Meixcan sombrero.

If you have any other suggestions about entertaining visitors cheaply, go to:

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Av in




e Gir

Zona Universitaria


Avinguda de Pedralbes

Av in

Parc de Pedralbes




Finca Güell


l Palau Reial


Photos by Tashoma Lemard, illustration by Isolda Piza

3. FOR FIRST-TIMERS: BCN BY BUS If you have visitors coming who have yet to see the key sights, but don’t have much time or cash to spare, forget the pricey tourist buses and head for normal bus services instead. With a trusty T-10 ticket in hand (at the time of writing, they cost €8.95, although a price hike is expected for this month), you can personalise your itinerary to fit the pace and interests of your guests. For example, the number 59 starts just next to the Hotel Arts and heads along the Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta (sea views, tick; beach life, tick), later slowly winds its way up La Rambla (statues and pickpockets, tick), traverses the Eixample Esquerra (architecture, tick), and finishes up a short walk from the Camp Nou (footballing geniuses, tick).

Parc de Cervantes

Doctor Marañón

2. FOR PARENTS: EXPLORE LES CORTS Take mum and dad away from the city centre crowds to one of Barcelona’s least visited neighbourhoods, Les Corts, and show them its gardens. At the far end of Avinguda Diagonal, Parc de Cervantes is home to a blossoming range of over 245 varieties of colourful flowers and is famous for its international rose show, which takes place every May. Parc de Pedralbes is a wonderful picnic spot with its lush greenery and impressive array of sculptures and fountains, as well as the Palau Reial, a majestic mansion surrounded by Mediterranean plants. Finally, take them to one of Gaudi’s lesser-known creations, the Finca Güell, which he designed in 1883; although little remains of his original project, the dragon in the elaborate iron gate alone is worth the trip.


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GO online with

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fashion Images-clockwise, l-r: Diane Pernet; To Kingdom Come, directed by Pam Hogg; Chanel Nº. 3 Painted Eyes directed by Untitled Associates for Hercules And Love Affair

Barcelona welcomes ASVOFF later this month, the international fashion film festival created by designer and film-maker Diane Pernet.

Barcelona has had trouble recently in establishing itself firmly on the international fashion stage. While it has a reputation as a stylish city and a place where designers thrive, it has struggled to create regular events that attract the industry’s big names. However, that looks set to change with the arrival of ASVOFF, a fashion film festival created in 2008 by designer and film-maker, Diane Pernet. With editions taking place in a select number of cities since then, ‘A Shaded View on Fashion Film’ (to give the festival its full name) has shown that fashion isn’t just made for the static imagery of photographs, and brings together designers, directors and artists from around the world. We put some questions to ASVOFF Barcelona’s co-director Alex Murray-Leslie about this major fashion happening.

Why was Barcelona chosen for this edition of the festival? Diane chose Barcelona as she saw it’s the perfect place for hosting international cultural events with a hungry audience seeking the new. ASVOFF Barcelona aims to open a few unknown doors in Barcelona, to try stuff out. It’s an experiment and Diane’s giving the city a fantastic opportunity to become one of the few ASVOFF cultural capitals in the world, which include Tokyo, Paris, Cannes and Mexico City. The difference is, the Barcelona edition has three competitions of its own: Official, Students and Mobile Fashion. What do you think ASVOFF has brought to the fashion and film industries? ASVOFF is an event that involves fashion and film, but also emphasises art performance, new forms of choreography, soundtracking and collaborations between multi-disciplined people. It’s a new informative language; I feel it’s on the leading edge right now. Diane has revolutionised fashion! She’s filled a creative gap. You can see a lot of

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designers and brands now opting out of catwalks, and making fashion films instead, partly thanks to the digital revolution. The medium has a longevity and wider reach online; it also gives fashion a more sustainable and democratic positioning with a wider audience.

Is fashion still important at a time when there are so many social and financial problems around the world? It’s even more important, it’s like a mirror. People seem a little timid at the moment and that’s the perfect time for artists to go wild and make changes. Fashion film’s an easy tool, it’s not necessarily about money but big ideas and how to collage ingredients together, creating a dialogue for social change. That’s partly why we introduced the mobile phone competition into ASVOFF Barcelona: it’s an easy, cheap medium, almost everybody has a mobile phone with a camera and can shoot a fashion film with it (or their friend’s phone), so no excuses about expensive cameras and studios any more—ACTION! What films are you looking forward to watching at ASVOFF BCN? Diane’s ‘Best of ASVOFF’ (a selection from the last four editions of ASVOFF Paris), Carte Blanche Naracciones by Charo Mora, fascinating fashion films from Escuela de Barcelona. That’s enough, you have to see it and experience it! Of course, the whole ASVOFF Barcelona team are very curious to go to Glen Adamson’s lecture screening. Glen is Head of Research at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London and will introduce Barcelona audiences to the current V&A exhibition ‘Post Modernism, Style and Subversion’, followed by a public forum. ASVOFF Barcelona: CaixaForum, January 24th to 27th,

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Follow the star


We go behind the scenes of the annual Kings’ Day parade to find out how the procession is produced. By Amanda August.

hen it comes to the arrival of the Three Wise Men on January 5th, Barcelona pulls out all the stops. No head of state, religious leader or celebrity is greeted with the same festive spirit shown at the cavalcada dels reis (Kings’ parade). Dancing, singing, music, lights, dazzling costumes and mesmerising scenes are its essential ingredients. It’s no surprise, then, that preparation starts months in advance and the whole process is intensive, ensuring that the end result is a show fit for kings, and the 500,000 or so children and adults watching. As early as the summer before the big event, scenographers, set builders, choreographers, singers and artists are working on the main artistic ideas, a process that is headed by Marta Almirall, the director of festivals at Barcelona council’s Institute of Culture. “I have no problem finding inspiration. The hardest part is putting those ideas into practice,” she said. It’s difficult to believe that Almirall, whose background is in dance and choreography, would find any part of directing the cavalcada hard, given her extensive experience as artistic director of the opening and closing ceremonies of such events as the 1992 Barcelona Olympics, 2004 Forum Barcelona and 2008 Expo Zaragoza. However, she highlights a major difference in her work

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today: “The cavalcada is unique in that it is a moving show that is one kilometre long and divided into blocks. Usually an audience sits and watches a performance but in this case it moves past [them] and is effectively a group of small shows.” One way that Almirall has dealt with this special characteristic, which inevitably presents all kinds of logistical and technical problems, is by unifying some essential elements. As of last year, for example, the music was the same throughout the parade and the wardrobe was more consistent and in line with the kings’ story, thanks to the revamping of more than 1,200 costumes in the local government’s private collection. “Everyone was really well-dressed, made-up and in character,” said Almirall. “Plus there were lots of dress rehearsals so everyone knew how to wear their costumes theatrically. All of this helps the overall impact of the show.” Even though Almirall admits that her only childhood memory of the parade is staring fixedly at the lorries full of toys, she believes that the best thing about it is the spectacle rather than the presents that the kings bring, and she hopes that the cavalcada “transmits other values, such as a love of theatre, for example”. This is a motivating factor behind the ambition of this year’s event to try to integrate the public even more than before. While Almirall has been working on the closeness of the performers with the public for a while now—last year children had their hands

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stamped with the word ‘received’ when they gave their letters to pages—she stresses that it’s going to be even better this year. More than this she won’t say, so as not to ruin the surprise. To help achieve her objectives, Almirall works with 1,200 collaborators: 300 professionals and 900 volunteers. Professional drivers, light and sound technicians, postmen and women, dance students, actors and artists are just some of those who are prepared to give up their free time and work solidly for at least two months. Metropolitan spoke to three of the people involved with getting everything ready for the parade to find out what it’s like for them working on the cavalcada dels reis... José Menchero: scenographer and set builder of the kings’ carriages and star float “We’re given complete freedom to do what we want as long as it’s in line with the story. We look for inspiration from everywhere—books, film, internet, and then mix it all up a bit. The kings’ carriages are fundamentally the same but with individual details. All are open books with maps showing where each king is from, and all have a bridge and a throne. We add new details to the carriages every year and change colour schemes and the lighting. For this year’s show we’ve been developing the second viewing level— effectively the tall elements that can be seen from further back. I can’t give exact details but it’s going to be really beautiful. The public always receives the cavalcada very positively and seeing the amazement and wonder on the children’s faces is incredible. My greatest satisfaction is having been part of the parade while it has been improving artistically over the last few years. There is now a greater respect for it among artists, the theatre and dance groups, and they want to be involved. Now I’d like it to be taken even more seriously and received as an art event in its own right, with critical reviews in newspapers.” Babarana Pons: director of choreography “I direct the choreography for the whole event and part of my role

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involves selecting volunteers from dance schools. The minimum age is 14 because it’s such hard work. There’s months of preparation and rehearsals and then the final performance is three hours long with no breaks. A big part of my work is motivating the volunteers because even though they’re enthusiastic, if it’s the first time for them, they’re not aware how tiring it is. The most beautiful thing is doing it for real. Seeing the children’s excitement and their parents’ joy when you greet them and give them a sweet… well, nothing compares. People’s experience of the parade will depend on where they’re watching. If your view is blocked, or if there’s a technical problem and everything stops right in front of you, the magic vanishes. That’s why we aim to give 100 percent the whole time. I hope everyone sees the beauty in the event and that it really excites them because every year the bar is set higher than the year before.” Jordà Ferrer: scenographer and set builder with the company Antigua y Barbuda “Last year we did one of the toy factory floats and the comparsa (walking parade) for the star. Working on the floats comes with certain size limitations as the parade goes down some pretty narrow streets and passes under the city’s Christmas lights and a low bridge at one point. One way round the height restriction is to make the roof flat so that dancers can bend down when necessary. Once we have the design, the dancers who perform on our float come to our workshop and we explain where they can walk and they give us their input, saying what they’d like to be able to do and we try to make it work for them. After this we finish everything off, adapting things if necessary and painting it all. During the parade, I’m inside the float doing the mechanics so I can’t see the final result, but it’s all great fun because there’s such a brilliant atmosphere. It’s really incredible to feel the emotion and happiness of everyone participating in the show, especially after working flat out for almost three months in the workshop. It’s a magical night.”


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And what it means to them… Three young friends explain what they like most about the cavalcada and their parents share their own Kings’ Day memories: Marina Ramon Benitez, 7 “I like the lights and seeing the kings right in front of me. When they see all of us they must think ‘what a lot of presents to deliver!’” Lorenzo Ramon, father “One year, my favourite king, Melchor, told me I’d been bad. I felt so disappointed that I behaved much better the next year.” Enric Ortega, 7 “Melchor is my favourite because he’s always the first to arrive. I like the sweets, too. It must be fun throwing them to everyone.” Begoña Picazo, mother “Watching the cavalcada was something really special. My best memory is my dad letting me stand on the top of the car so I could see better.”

Marina Ramon Benitez

Lucia Jimenez Vazquez, 7 “I think the kings must be very happy when they see all of us waving at them. I’d love to join in the singing and dancing.” Lucia Vazquez Reynes, mother “I loved seeing the beautiful clothes—all so different and exotic. I was always very nervous and excited; at last, the kings were here!”

KINGS ON PARADE The kings will arrive by boat at Moll de la Fusta at 5pm on January 5th. After being greeted by the mayor and making a short speech, they will go to Parc de la Ciutadella from where the parade will begin at 6.30pm. The mounted ‘Royal Guard’ and the Patge Anunciador (announcing pageboy) lead the 800-metre long cavalcada on its five-kilometre journey. A dazzling star of Bethlehem follows and then comes the Royal Post, collecting children’s letters for the kings, as well as babies’ dummies—some 5,000 xumets are collected annually. The kings’ carriages then appear, along with their respective entourages and toy factories. The Time Carriage accompanies King Melchor, reminding children to go to bed on time so the kings can deliver their presents. Last up is the train transporting the coal that will be left instead of a present for those children who have misbehaved.

Enric Ortega

Lucía Jímenez Vazquez

All photos of Kings’ Day Procession courtesy of Barcelona City Council, photographer Pep Herrero

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How is the equality situation in Spain? Spain is not very productive. We work too many hours and are inefficient. Change is happening very slowly here and I don’t know why. In Morocco, work finishes at 6.30pm. Here, it is much later. Yesterday, I attended the general meeting of Foment [Catalan Employers’ Association] and we started at half past seven. At 8pm, I had to leave. It doesn’t matter if we have small children; the fact is that I don’t want to be at work till 9pm if I start at eight in the morning. That is not a gender issue, but a productivity issue. If the Socialists [PSOE] were cautious about this, I don’t know if the PP will help us, but I hope they do.

Maria Helena de Felipe Read a longer version of this article online at

Employment Lawyer and Founder and President of AFAEMME, 49 Launched in 2002, the Association of Organisations of Mediterranean Businesswomen (AFAEMME) comprises 36 female entrepreneurs’ organisations from 21 Mediterranean countries and has its headquarters in Barcelona. Working with the European Commission, Chambers of Commerce in its representative countries and various other networks, AFAEMME serves as a platform for international projects that promote gender equality in the marketplace. How did you become involved in AFAEMME? Well, after working my way up through the Catalan Business Association, I joined the Spanish Businesswomen’s Association and was nominated as President. As such, I got to know a lot of organisations around Europe and the Mediterranean. I realised there was a need for something to bring us all together; the women were always asking to meet up and discuss things. We started off with seven organisations and are now 36. Each group has an average of 200 members.

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Why did you focus on the Mediterranean and not Southern Europe, for example? The Mediterranean area takes in Arab countries and I’ve always felt very comfortable with Arab women. They were always very welcoming, with a high educational level. Most of them have two university degrees, one of which they have usually got from the US. They are privileged, they have good minds and they hold good positions in family-owned companies. What are the challenges for female entrepreneurs in particular? In the Mediterranean area, we have the religious stereotypes and, of course, there is inequality. The strange thing is that things appear to be going backwards. Ten years ago in Turkey, for example, men and women were seen as equal in the business arena, but the power has shifted in favour of men. In Egypt, 20 years ago, women didn’t wear the veil, but now they say it identifies them as Muslim women. I think, as a result of the Arab Spring, we will see more women losing their rights and their liberties and I keep saying to those women’s groups: go forward, not back.

How are you encouraging more female entrepreneurs in Spain? I have run courses in universities here and in Cordoba on this theme and it has been very positively received. It was very different from when I was studying law—nowadays, they ask so many questions! We try to motivate young women to set up their own businesses, with a good partner, a business plan and an idea. We tell them to be proactive. Women make up half of the country’s talent, and if we don’t use this 50 percent, we lose a high potential of our economy. What has been your own experience as a woman in business? I started with a partner, she was a lawyer like me, and we had one client each. We had no business plan and no special budget, just the motivation and a set of targets! My greatest achievement, however, was setting up AFAEMME: I share everything I know with the members of this organisation and make good use of my position. What is the best advice you’ve ever been given? Be reliable. If you say you are going to do something, you have to follow it up. It’s like the opposite of being a politician! What advice would you give to a woman reading this interview who is thinking of starting a business? Get information, training and good entrepreneurial advice. Sometimes the idea is very good but there is something you are not thinking about. They can contact the Association of Businesswomen in Catalunya for advice (

Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.

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Saying adéu for good Five former Barcelona residents explain what made them decide to leave. By Carrie Frais.


eople choose to come to Catalunya for many reasons: a job offer, to learn Castilian or perhaps simply to improve their quality of life. Up until last year, there was a steady increase in the number of Europeans choosing to settle in Catalunya, but last year the number of European immigrants began to fall, in particular among the British, French, Dutch, German and Portuguese. Inevitably, Spain’s stagnated economy has played a key factor—but, as these five people testify, there can be any number of reasons why some people choose to move away… Education Carolin Munter (37) and her husband came to Sitges in the summer of 2006, seeking a change of lifestyle. “We wanted to go abroad, broaden our horizons and live next to the sea and an exciting city. Barcelona seemed perfect for that.” At the time their daughter was just three months old and the issue of education seemed a distant consideration. But when the time came to decide where to send their daughter to school, Carolin realised she wanted to return home to Germany. “A Catalan school was not an option and the international schools didn’t offer optimal quality either. The German school was too far away from where we lived. It seems so distant now when I hear stories about children starting kindergarten/school in the Catalan system crying non-stop for a month every September. This just doesn’t exist in Germany; people don’t believe me if I tell them this. Here, there is the possibility of a soft start and a more child-centred education.” Now based in the heart of the Black Forest, having moved back last summer, Carolin is also appreciative of Germany’s renowned efficiency, the vast choice of products in

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Carolin Munter and her family

her local supermarket as well as the significantly lower cost of living. She describes the time she spent in Sitges as an “extended holiday” and doesn’t regret her decision to move away. “When we see how happy and more self-assured our daughter is, there is no way back. Moving away from a bubble to ‘real’ life has been rewarding and provided us with new experiences, friends and the feeling of belonging to a community.” LANGUAGE Claire Williams (42) worked in the media in London but was desperate to escape the rat race after work commitments became overwhelming. “When you miss your own 30th birthday due to being stuck at work, you know it is time to move on.” She spent nearly 10 years in Barcelona, establishing her apartment rental business,

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Bcn Bound, which she juggled alongside looking after her two small boys. Despite describing her time in the city as “happy” with some “great times and friends”, the issue of language for both her and her two sons became a major issue. “I was not too impressed with their Catalan primary school plus I would rather they learn Spanish than Catalan. As time went on I increasingly wanted to speak my own language. My grammar is good but but no one understood my south London accent! When I said ‘Hola!’ every morning, I got the usual response of ‘¿Cómo?’ from the locals.” After spending many holidays in Australia and falling in love with the culture there, Claire has now relocated to Sydney where she still runs her business and plans to replicate the model locally. Missing Family AND FRIENDS Victoria Lomas (32) only wanted to spend a month in Barcelona but ended up living and working in the city for almost 10 years. She did a fast-track Castilian course and went on to work for two different estate agencies, latterly with the international luxury real estate agency Lucas Fox, which she describes as a “really happy” time. However, as time went by, Victoria says, she began to miss her family and friends in England more and more. “I would fly back maybe two or three times a year but it was expensive and hard to find the time off work so I missed out on a lot of family occasions and friends’ weddings, etc. I found that quite a few friends of mine who’d been living and working abroad had also returned to the UK, which effectively made my decision to go back easier. I think if you’ve had a positive experience of growing up there you eventually feel the ‘pull’ to go back home.” Before going back to England, Victoria spent a short period travelling in Singapore and New Zealand. When she returned, she found a job as an account manager for a food export company in Bath, where she regularly uses her Castilian. “I thought I would miss Barcelona more but I’m really enjoying being back in the UK, rediscovering places that I took for granted before—I forgot England was so beautiful! I had an amazing time in Barcelona and I think it gives you a massive amount of confidence moving to a foreign country by yourself, being exposed to a different culture, learning the language, working and living in such a cosmopolitan city.” Work Dutchman Henk Vrijheid (47) and his Catalan wife decided to leave Barcelona for the UK two years ago after Henk was made redundant from his job at General Electric (GE). Despite wanting to stay living and working in Barcelona, he struggled to find another position at his level. “The job market in Spain for more senior executive European positions is very difficult. Also for more senior positions in local Spanish businesses the market is tight. In general, companies are very risk-averse in offering positions and prefer to work with the current teams. As many companies are facing the need to adjust to the new economic reality, meaning they have to restructure, the appetite to invest in new employees is low. Furthermore, the pay levels in Spain are significantly lower than in other countries, like Germany or the UK.” Henk found another position within GE in London and appreciates all the perks that go with a higher salary. Henk has not ruled out the possibility of returning to live in Barcelona as his wife is Catalan and admits there are some aspects of the city which they miss hugely. “The pleasant weather,

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our friends and the enjoyable lifestyle. Also the opportunity to make short excursions to the coast or to the mountains in the winter was very pleasant. That is more difficult in London.” Community Rebecca Laidlaw (36) moved to Sitges in 2000 when her husband started working in Barcelona. She continued her job as a marketing consultant and also set up her own website business for international families relocating to or living in Spain ( When her eldest child reached school age, however, they began to start thinking about moving back to the UK. “My son did a year at the local Catalan school and was very unhappy. We had a place at an international school which we turned down as we felt if we lived here our children should feel part of the local Catalan community. However, after a year in our local school I realised this wasn’t a long-term solution.” Rebecca was also increasingly conscious of not feeling like she ‘belonged’—being part of the ‘expat community’ was no longer enough. Rebecca and her husband chose to move back to the UK after 15 years abroad and she admits that she finally feels a genuine sense of belonging. “We appreciate being able to help our elderly neighbour, walk to the butcher, have a paper delivered, take part in village events, etc. The kids do really feel they belong here and I feel they have both flourished. It’s also great having grandparents and cousins on tap.” Rebecca has carried on working on her web-based business but travels back to Sitges during the holidays—“having our house in Spain has definitely helped to ease the pain.”

Henk Vrijheid with his family

FALLING NUMBERS: Figures from the Generalitat’s Department of Social Welfare and Family about the number of foreigners registered in Catalunya in 2009 and July 2011, respectively: Britons—21,831 - 20,887 Germans —24,125 - 22,927 French—36,098 - 34,152 Portuguese—17,576 - 15,648 Dutch—10,2008 - 9,810

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FOOD Barcelona

Many thanks to all of you who sent in photos for these pages—we’re sorry we couldn’t use them all here, but we have put a longer version of this spread online: Next month’s theme is: OUTDOORS. Send your photos to by January 18th. All the practical info is at:

At St. Josep La Boqueria market, by Wendy Taylor

Sharing an ice cream, by Robert Webb

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Writer seeking inspiration at 4Gats (there was food but it got eaten), by Peter Smith

Enjoying a ‘super-muffin’ at Cosmo café, by James Ng

No escape, by Szilvia Gergulics

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Rovellons, by Sigrid Smeele

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Eating right Fish and shellfish are popular options when dining out in Barcelona, but some species are paying a heavy price for our menu choices. By Lara Cummings.


he global population is growing and so is its seafood consumption. But fish stocks are declining fast. And eating seafood responsibly in Barcelona is no easy feat when overexploited species are on the menu in every other tapas bar. Indeed, if you eat fish here, you are likely to consume a species on the brink of extinction. It’s difficult not to. According to the European Commission: “In the Mediterranean Sea, 82 percent of known stocks are overfished.…The percentage of overfished stocks is still too high and there can be no room for complacency: more efforts are needed to phase out overfishing.” For consumers, finding out what is sustainable is an overwhelming task—especially when choosing from a restaurant menu. The sources regarding what is safe to eat are confusing and often contradictory. A species may be listed as endangered by one organisation and sustainable by another. It might exist in healthy numbers in one sea, but not the next. The catch method can be unthreatening or exceedingly harmful. The typical tapas menu in Barcelona lists a range of fully-exploited, vulnerable and endangered species, along with species caught using methods that decimate millennia-old habitats and other species. But they can also include less damaging options, although not nearly as many as those at risk. As a general rule, fresh is better than frozen and artisanal or traditional fisheries use more environmentally-friendly methods for catching their products, although they are not without their problems; some continue to catch species seriously at risk, such as rap (monkfish) and besuc (sea bream). If you want to be able to make more positive choices the next time you’re faced with a restaurant or tapas bar menu, read on for details of what’s fine to eat in any quantity, what’s okay when caught in specific places (for those times that the restaurant provides such info) and what you should ideally avoid or eat only rarely.

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Clockwise from left: mussels and clams are your best seafood option whether eating out or cooking at

Anchoa, Boquerón [Castilian]/Anxova, Seitó [Catalan] (Anchovy, salted or fresh*)—Limit Prized Costa Brava anchovy populations have plummeted by more than 50 percent since 1994. According to Isabel Palomera, scientist at the Institute of Marine Sciences (ICM) in Barcelona, climate change and overfishing are the culprits. She points out that the minimum allowable catch size for anchovies is nine centimetres, a crucial factor in the decline of a species that doesn’t reproduce until it reaches 11 centimetres. Palomera also censures fishing companies for targeting anchovies when they form schools to reproduce, swiping all reproductive females before they have the chance to spawn. In 1994, the Catalan anchovy catch was 20,000 tonnes; in 2007, it was 3,000 tonnes. Since then, according to Palomera, “things have got worse for the Costa Brava anchovy.” *Anchoas and boquerones are the same species. The latter refers to the fish fresh-cooked or marinated in vinegar. The term anchoa is used once it has undergone the salting process that darkens its flesh. Atún/Tonyina (Tuna)—Limit All tuna is on the Greenpeace Red List (a list of 19 species readily

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ng out or cooking at home, photo by Richard Lee Owens; a purse seine boat © OCEANA/Enrique Talledo; a dolphin swims close to a seabream farm in Tenerife © OCEANA/Carlos Suárez

found in supermarkets that are endangered or whose method of capture is damaging to ecosystems and other species). The most vulnerable variety is Bluefin tuna, whose prized use in sushi has contributed to its 90 percent decline since the Seventies. Skipjack (listado) is the least vulnerable variety listed. It is claimed that albacore (bonito) is sustainable in the Cantabrian Sea by those who fish and can it. Mackerel (caballa) is a sustainable alternative. Bacalao/Bacallà (Cod)—OK from Iceland Most cod cooked locally is imported from Iceland, which manages one of the few remaining sustainable cod fisheries. It is best avoided from elsewhere. According to research collected by Oceana, an independent marine science research organisation, in other areas including the Irish Sea, cod is facing overexploitation and collapse, with levels 40 to 80 percent below safe biological limits. It is caught using bottom trawling, which decimates ocean floors and has high rates of bycatch (unwanted species thrown back into the sea dead or dying). Previously, Spain’s cod came from the northern stock off the east coast of Canada (the Grand Banks), once the most plentiful stock in the world. In 1992, it collapsed and a moratorium was introduced,

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but it was too late. Some 96 percent (and that’s the lowest estimate) of the cod had been wiped out and it has never recovered. This was the first time it was realised that the fish in the sea are a limited resource and require sustainable management. Bivalves: Mejillones, Ostras, Almejas/Musclos, Ostres, Cloïsses (Mussels, Oysters, Clams)—Best option Mussels are filter feeders, grow easily and quickly, are inexpensive, versatile, delicious, rich in iron, and farmed locally and under good conditions on the Catalan coast along with oysters and clams, which are also sustainable options. Mussels are commonly served as tigres (ground with onion, tomato and béchamel, crumbed and deep fried), steamed in white wine or served cold in a vinaigrette with chopped onions and peppers. Bogavante/Llamàntol (Lobster)—Limit The European lobster is the only native lobster species in the Mediterranean. Its slow rate of growth and high price leaves it vulnerable to fishing pressure. Little information exists on the species along the Catalan coast due to very low population densities, according to ICM researchers,


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such as Pere Abelló. He also explained to Metropolitan that even smallscale fishing for this species can be harmful as the traps and other traditional methods used can damage the delicate sea floors and rock walls it inhabits, and harm birds and mammals. The most consumed lobster species is the similar but imported American lobster, whose population has exploded in inverse relation to the overfishing and decline of its predators, mainly cod and seals. Popular local rice dish arròs amb llamàntol is not a good menu choice regardless of whether European or American lobster is used because many restaurants use prawns in the recipe, which have a high environmental cost (see gamba). Calamares, chipirones, chopitos (Squid at different life stages)—OK from traditional, small-scale fleets Squid is an abundant species at no risk of extinction though Oceana recommends giving preference to local, artisanal fisheries that largely use jigging, a selective fishing method that isn’t extraneously harmful to other species or the environment, whereas industrial fleets use destructive bottom trawling. Look for calamar de potera, although you’re more likely to find it at the market than in a restaurant. Cigala/Escamarlà (Langoustine)–OK from the Mediterranean According to researchers Francesc Sardà and J. Aguzz, the low reproductive rate and slow, awkward movement of this crustacean should make it vulnerable to overexploitation. But its numbers in the western Mediterranean have only slightly declined, perhaps due to its tendency to spend most of its time in the tunnels it digs in mud seafloors. Those companies fishing cigalas from the Cantabrian Sea, however, have been advised by the European Commission to stop.

Merluza/Lluç (Hake)—Avoid In Europe, hake is caught using bottom trawlers or longlines (two to three kilometres and upwards of fishing line laid on the ocean floor with thousands of hooks attached that catch turtles, dolphins and other vulnerable species as bycatch) and gillnets that catch unwanted, immature species that are thrown back dying, as well as dolphins and porpoises. Hake reaches sexual maturity around seven or eight years old, so it is vulnerable to overexploitation and fished above the threshold of safe biological limits in the Mediterranean set by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), which notes that there has been an estimated 10 to 40 percent decline in landings of this species over a recent 10-year period.

For consumers, finding out what is sustainable is an overwhelming task.

Dorada, Lubina/Daurada, Llobarro (Gilthead bream, Sea bass)—Limit Neither gilthead bream nor sea bass is at risk of extinction as most of it comes from aquaculture or fish farming (fish raised in offshore sea pens or inland pools). Fish that are farmed along the Catalan coast are preferable to those imported from elsewhere though it is recommended to limit the consumption of farmed fish as the practice can have a harmful environmental impact in the following ways: fish can be treated with antibiotics and release harmful waste into the environment; scientists warn that escaped fish that spawn with wild fish can badly affect the gene pool; and farming puts pressure on smaller wild fish that are needed to feed the carnivorous farmed fish.

Pez espada/Peix Espasa (Swordfish)—Avoid Regularly listed on menús del dia, the succulent flesh of swordfish is justifiably prized, and thus fully exploited, particularly in the Mediterranean where it is poorly managed. With no minimum EU landing size, Spain adopted its own of 90 centimetres which is less than the size it needs to reach to reproduce. Even the ICCAT (The International Commission for the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas, not enormously respected due to its failure to protect Bluefin tuna), declared that current swordfish levels are dangerously low. Worse still, swordfish is targeted with destructive longlines and driftnets, an insidious method the UN declared illegal in 2002, but which continues to drown an estimated 100,000 dolphins and whales in the Mediterranean each year.

Gamba roja/Gamba vermella (Red prawn)—Limit Gastronomically rooted in Catalan culture in many rice and seafood dishes, the gamba rosada or roja economically sustains many small fishing companies in Catalunya. According to Francesc Sardá and J.B. Company, writing in Història Natural dels Països Catalans, the species is being exploited at the limits of its reproductive and economic sustainability. The Generalitat and the EU have been involved in trying to bring together scientists and fisheries to collaborate on ensuring the sustainability of this valuable catch for Catalunya. Worldwide, shrimp is one of the most wasteful catches. According to the UN Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO), for every kilogramme of prawns caught, up to 20 kilogrammes of bycatch is thrown back into the sea dead or dying. Prawns are bottom trawled, the fishing method responsible for 27 percent of the world’s bycatch, including high numbers of turtles, and the destruction of corals and vital marine habitats that can take millennia to grow. Frozen packaged prawns generally originate in this way.

Salmón/Salmó (Atlantic salmon)—Limit This is another species to avoid where possible due to the alarming effects that salmon farming can have on natural ecosystems. These come as a result of organic waste and chemical products and the use of antibiotics that can lead to the emergence of antibiotic-resistant bacteria, while escaped fish transmit disease and parasites to native species. In addition, carnivorous salmon require up to five kilos of smaller forage fish to grow one kilo.

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Sardinas/Sardines (Sardines)—OK from the Atlantic Atlantic sardine stocks are within safe biological limits according to Oceana and are caught with purse seines, a selective method with minimal bycatch that doesn’t destroy ocean floors. However, research conducted by Isabel Palomera and the ICM on sardine stocks along the Spanish Mediterranean coast and Catalan coast, is alarming. The 1993 catch of 160,000 tonnes dropped to 15,000 in 2007, and it has continued to diminish.

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English - Spanish - Catalan - Dutch - German - Italian

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MAKING PLANS A few suggestions about things to do tonight, this weekend, later on...

Party on

Cherrytree Pop Alternative Tour, Sala Apolo, Friday 20th

‘Arañas’. Photo by RIchard Termine, costume by Dominique Lemiuex

Barcelona is the next stop for LMFAO who continue to party rock across the globe with their recordbreaking album, Sorry For Party Rocking. The duo are renowned for their dance anthems and wild dancing, particularly their ‘shuffling’, and have entertained audiences worldwide. Two of their hits, ‘Party Rock Anthem’ and ‘Sexy and I Know It’, have racked up over 350 million YouTube viewings and reached number one across Europe and America. They are supported by another big name from 2011, Far East Movement, who exploded onto the music scene with their hit singles ‘Like A G6’ and ‘If I Was You (OMG)’.

Circus tricks

Corteo, Plataforma del Zoo Marino, from Friday 20th Perennial Barcelona favourite Cirque du Soleil return this month with their show Corteo (which means funeral procession in Italian). With women dangling from chandeliers, a strange game of golf and a whistling ringmaster, this is an unusual funeral cortege that takes place mainly up in the air. Prepare to be amazed.

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onions galore

La Gran Festa de la Calçotada, Valls, Sunday 29th, all day After last month’s gluttonous adventures, maybe this isn’t the best time to remind you of the annual calçot-fest down the way in Valls. But onions are vegetables, right? So that’s healthy, isn’t it? Well, it probably depends on how many of these unique Catalan winter specialities you manage to ingest: the winner of the annual Valls calçot eating competition last year put away 265 of the things in 45 minutes. Better to savour them at a more reasonable pace: a €7 ticket at the calçotada will buy you 12 calçots, sauce, bread, wine, an orange and hazelnuts, and the all-important bib. Get to Valls by car (E-15 or C-32, both toll roads) or coach (Hispano Igualadina).

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Patti Smith photographed by Robert Mapplethorpe, 1987


COLLECT CALL ‘Barcelona Colecciona’—Fundación Francisco Godia, until March 26th

Now showing at the Fundación Godia, this exhibition puts on public view a selection of some of the best works of contemporary art from private Barcelona collections. It’s an appropriate time to consider the rights and wrongs of images being accessible only to those who can afford to actually buy them, as opposed to being in open-to-all venues, and this show will doubtless frustrate as much as it creates a feast for the eyes. Do private art collectors enable the continued work of creatives by paying for the pieces they like or are their purchases more an extravagant and selfish gesture? The Fundación Godia is unlikely to make a judgement one way or the other but their interest in the local collectors’ scene (inspired by founder Francisco Godia) means we have this chance to see work by artists such as Anish Kapoor, Cindy Sherman and Antoni Abad that we wouldn’t otherwise—unless we have friends in high places.

Up on stage

Some of the concerts happening this month in Barcelona

Alabama Gospel Choir—Thursday 5th and Friday 6th at Palau de la Música Catalana The Pains of Being Pure at Heart (pictured)—Friday 13th at Razzmatazz Adanowsky—Saturday 28th at Apolo [2] Arctic Monkeys—Saturday 28th at Palau Sant Jordi

Women with a tale to tell Venterella, 7Sins, Sunday 15th, 8pm

While we might not like the stereotype of the chatty female, it’s not good news either when women stay quiet and let men hog the stage, as has been happening at the Vent! Telling It Like Was storytelling nights. Although the Giggling Guiri initiative has become a must-see for many in the English-speaking community, it hasn’t become so much of a must-do amongst women. So organiser Stephanie Figueira is looking for females willing to share a life story with an audience for this women-only event. Sounds scary and it surely is, but when’s that ever stopped us? If you want to give it a try, mail Stephanie in advance with your story: ventbarcelona@gmail. com. And men! Don’t say anything about discrimination: listeners of all genders are welcome.

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REVIEW French photographer Lucy Schwob faced up to the prejudices of her time to follow her artistic vision. By Will Shank.

Self-portrait, c.1926. Institut Valencià d’Art Modern, Generalitat


Palau de la Virreina. Until February 5th

I Poupee I (Prends un petit bâton pointu), 1936. Richard and Ronay Menschel

t was not a good time or place to be either Jewish, lesbian or a subversive artist. And yet Claude Cahun was all three of those things and much more during her highly eventful life in France and the Channel Islands between 1894 and 1954. Born Lucy Schwob in Nantes, she reinvented herself in 1917 with a man’s name and a persona more suited to her vision of herself. For the uninitiated—and there are many, since the writing and photography of Cahun were practically unknown before the Eighties—the exhibition is laid out in a sly and provocative manner. The stark white galleries of the Palau de la Virreina are installed so that the visitor is first introduced to the self-portraits of the artist. There are so many, in fact—of Cahun in outrageous costumes, of Cahun with her head shaved, of Cahun in self-portraits that were shot mysteriously from across a room or in a bird’s-eye view—that one would think she is the most self-absorbed artist this side of Frida Kahlo. Not exactly a beauty queen, Cahun uses her odd looks, her hawk-like nose and her jutting jaw, to their best advantage when photographing herself. She portrays herself in such androgenous guises that when she wears wigs and frilly dresses, she actually looks like a drag queen. There is little wall text in the first galleries to provide much information about who this person might be, or what motivates her, so the viewer is allowed the opportunity to formulate his or her own opinion. Then come the still lives and the staged tableaux in the section called ‘The Poetics of the Object’. Her sensitivity to form, design and texture are clear, and her use of overlapping and double-exposure images inventive. Finally, one is confronted with a full-fledged Surrealist collage and the savvy viewer says, “Aha! That’s who she is…of course!”. In fact, Cahun’s inner circle included André Breton and other Surrealist artists and writers from the Thirties onwards. The story of Cahun and her life-partner Marcel Moore (née Suzanne Malherbe) unfolds through Cahun’s work (and some of Moore’s) in the remaining galleries, complemented by correspondence and the ephemera of their lives. And a sad story it is, as these strong women (dubbed ‘sisters’ by their neighbours on the island of Jersey) live their unconventional lives openly, antagonise the Nazi occupiers of France and wind up eventually behind bars. The experience of this tragic time is blamed for the early death of Cahun, at age 60. A 45-minute film with a double entendre title, Lizzie Thynne’s Playing a Part (2005) rounds out the picture of this star-crossed couple.

Sans titre, c.1939. Collection Christian Bouqueret, Paris

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coming up Start the new year with a trip to the Liceu, which is kicking off 2012 with a programme of hidden treasures and old faves. By Josephine Novak. Il Burbero di Buon Cuore © Javier del Real

Le Nozze di Figaro © Antoni Bofill


ometimes I am asked why I see the same opera or ballet over and over again, even just weeks apart, when I would never read a book six times in one year. The answer is that, leaving aside the glory of the music, each production has its own personality and each performer brings a different perspective to the role. And the great opera houses of the world all have their own character and pursue the same goals in very different ways. Which is why some of us are opera and ballet groupies every bit as intense as the followers of The Grateful Dead in their day. Barcelona’s Gran Teatre de Liceu, one of the aforementioned great opera houses, has made a point of both digging up buried treasure and presenting often-played favourites in original ways. Sometimes, admittedly, the originality can overwhelm the opera. I struggled, some years ago, to concentrate on the music of Mozart’s Don Giovanni when confronted with Calixto Bieito’s version, in which Simon Keenlyside played the Don as a 20th-century drug-dealer. And I sometimes wonder whether it is possible to see a production at the Liceu that does not contain a nude. The first four offerings of this season are very much in keeping with Liceu tradition. Donizetti’s little-known Linda di Chamounix, which runs until January 8th, should be a tuneful evening for even the occasional opera-goer. Written at about the same time as the more famous Lucia di Lammermoor, it also contains a mad scene (Donizetti must have found them stimulating), but manages to reach a happy ending instead of blood-covered tragedy. As it often does, the Liceu offers two

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casts, the A cast being more expensive and generally more famous. In this case, the leads are played by mega-stars Diana Damrau and Juan Diego Florez. But the attraction of the B cast, quite apart from its affordability, is that we sometimes get an early introduction to young singers who go on to become great. The next two productions run in tandem until the first week of February: a buried treasure, Il Burbero di Buon Cuore (The Kindhearted Grump), by Vicente Martín y Soler, and a top favourite, Mozart’s Le Nozze di Figaro (The Marriage of Figaro). Mozart actually figures in both operas, because after the death of Soler, he added a couple of arias to Il Burbero. In both operas, the plots revolve around headspinning romantic complications; always a pleasure if you are not personally involved. As a change of pace, the operas will be followed by a very short season of ballet (only four performances in February). Angel Corella, artistic director of the Corella Ballet Castilla y León, is bringing Swan Lake to the Liceu. One of the world’s greats, Corella is adored on at least two continents (he was a principal dancer with the American Ballet Theater until offered the opportunity to run his own company here). I can’t wait. Linda di Chamounix, until January 8th Il Burbero di Buen Cuore, January 27th to February 6th Le Nozze di Figaro, January 28th to February 3rd Swan Lake—Corella Ballet Castilla y León, February 9th to 12th.

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WARM AND COSY Forget the January cold with a trip out of town to one of these spots offering a real break from the city. By Max Bentley.


he Catalan landscape is a panoramic paradise filled with hidden gems and undiscovered get-aways that extend to the Pyrenees and beyond. Only an hour or two away from the busy life of Barcelona lie many peaceful places to enjoy a weekend break—we’ve chosen a few that are ideal for a visit this month, offering you a great start to the new year with luxurious hideaways, outdoor activities and relaxing experiences. HOTEL HUSA SANT MARÇAL + MAS VILARMAU Viladrau is a tranquil town located in the county of Osona, which sits on the northern face of the scenic Montseny mountain range. It was home to the famous Catalan outlaw Joan Sala i Ferrer, more commonly known as Serrallonga (1594–1634), who was depicted in contemporary ballads as a Robin Hood-style figure who robbed the rich and distributed their money to the poor, in response to the tyranny of Spanish king Felipe III. The town itself is just one of many Romanesque places to be found in the Montseny Natural Park, which is also home to an assembly of Mediterranean flora and fauna as well as a host of woodland creatures. Its healthy air and almostyear-round bright, sunny days make the park a special spot for walking and enjoying nature. Hotel Husa Sant Marçal is an old-fashioned guesthouse in Viladrau that still retains the grandiose decor of the ancient monastery that preceded it. Surrounded by stunning gardens and evergreen trees on the slopes of the natural park, the hotel has 12 rooms (which were once the cells of the monks), each furnished differently to give them all an individual character. While facilities like the outdoor jacuzzi and swimming pool are better suited to a summertime visit, the hotel also has a games room for all ages, a large fireplace and a massage service that can all help make a mid-winter trip here truly relaxing. The hotel also offers the chance to take a hot air balloon ride, giving you the chance to see some of Catalunya’s finest scenery from a privileged position or, for a more down-to-earth experience, go trekking on GR trails or hire mountain bikes to explore the nearby countryside. Mas Vilarmau is another inviting place to stay for those who wish to enjoy Viladrau’s natural beauty. Built in the 18th century as a farmhouse, Mas Vilarmau has been transformed into a family-friendly, affordable lodging. The guesthouse has eight double or triple rooms and several function rooms. On the same floor as the bedrooms is a reading room with a large open fireplace, while downstairs both the old kitchen and library also have fires, giving you different options for kicking back and enjoying a book in the warmth. The Whip Room offers the opportunity for activities such as meditation and yoga and there’s a selection of games available to guests, including cards, chess and dominoes. For those who prefer to be outdoors, the huge garden offers various sports facilities and a nature trail. Mas Vilarmau also provides their guests with excursions to nearby attractions or hikes through the countryside. For

Warm up this month at the naturally heated outdoor baths at Saint Thomas

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those feeling more adventurous, why not take a horse ride along the winding country paths and take in the quintessential tranquility of the Montseny. HOTEL TORRE MARTÍ A little further afield, at the foot of the Guilleries mountain range, is the village of Sant Julià de Vilatorta. Amid its architecture, one building in particular stands out: the shining orange exterior of the Hotel Torre Martí, constructed by the architect Riera Clariana in 1945. Their motto ‘elegant and tranquil’ couldn’t be more accurate as this family-run hotel provides both the location and facilities to enjoy a short break. The cosy leather armchairs in front of the fireplace in the library look like an appealing place to read a novel or take an afternoon nap while in the dining-room, decorated in the Catalan Art Nouveau style, you can enjoy rich and filling dishes at lunchtime and in the evening. It’s also where breakfast is served, when you can see the morning sun soar above the snowy peaks of the Pyrenees. If you do actually want to leave Torre Martí during your stay, the hotel has teamed up with three local companies in order to give guests a wide range of fun and interesting activities, from hot-air ballooning to golfing, raft-building and hiking. BAINS SAINT THOMAS Just across the French border, around a two-and-a-half hour drive from Barcelona, lie the baths of Saint Thomas, an impressive thermal spa hidden amongst the Pyrenees. As one heads down the valley in Fontpédrouse—the nearest town—surrounded by the lush mountain scenery, a path opens up to reveal this sunny oasis located at an altitude of 1,150 metres. Built around a large stone amphitheatre set in the mountainside, Saint Thomas is an ideal spot to lie back and soak in the rays of the Mediterranean sun even in January. Supplied by water that comes out of the ground at 58 degrees Celsius are a series of hot pools, jacuzzis, sulphur showers and massage jets, making Saint Thomas a great place to enjoy a spa day at any time of the year. There is also a children’s pool to keep the younger ones occupied; however, only guests over the age of 12 are permitted to use the hammam baths which provide analgesic, soothing and healing effects for the skin, aiding muscle recovery and ligament damage. Prices start at €5.50 for adults (€12 for hammam baths) and €4 for children. The company, in true French style, forbids the wearing of loose bathing suits or trunks so make sure to bring suitable swimwear or be prepared to pay for rentable clothing. For those who don’t want to drive, trains run from Sants Estació to Puigcerdà (approximately 2.5 hours) from where one can walk to the French village Bourg-Madame to catch the ‘Petit Train Jaune’—the highest electrified train in Europe—to Fontpédrouse, whose station is about 1.5 kilometres from the baths.

MORE INFO Hotel Sant Marçal—average nightly rate for a double room for two adults is €100. Mas Vilarmau—€48.61 / person per night (approx.) www. Hotel Torre Martí—room prices range from €89-€280. www. Bains Saint Thomas—

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WELL WORTH IT Hard times don’t mean having to miss out on good dining, as new opener Lo de Flor proves. By Tara Stevens. Photo by Richard Owens.



ne good thing about the recession is the emergence of more down-to-earth eateries where the focus is on providing good food at reasonable prices. Fine dining meanwhile seems to be very much on its way out as people tire of fussy dishes and mad prices. Hot on the heels of the closure of El Bulli, several other high-end places have shut their doors in order to open more humble establishments, among them Drolma—one of Barcelona’s most emblematic posh places—which closed its doors permanently towards the end of 2011. So when you come across little places like Lo de Flor, which is so very homely and warm, and serves a fine supper and glass of wine to boot, you have to question the wisdom of spending upwards of €70 when you could have something just as tasty and satisfying for under €30. Argentine Flor has been in the restaurant business in Barcelona for a while, first as the host of the highly regarded Au Port de la Lune behind the Boqueria and then at Picnic in the Born. This is her going it alone, opening at the worst time imaginable on the fairly obscure Carrer Carrettes in the Raval. But in fact she’s struck a chord with local residents by creating a hangout that is understatedly hip and irresistibly welcoming. The first time I went there I just stopped in for a drink at the bar, and ended up staying a couple of hours, chatting with Flor and the waitress and sipping a rather good Rueda as if I’d been going there for years. In fact, she’d only been open three weeks. Done up with a lick of white paint, timber tables and some natty

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decorative features like the weathered pieces of wood that adorn the walls and table lamps inset just below the beams, the place is split across two levels: a long bar and high tables at the front, and a slightly quieter dining room downstairs. Music is jazz and soul at a level that gives it a bit of buzz but doesn’t destroy the conversation. Indeed, by the time she’s been open a month, it’s crackling with atmosphere and the place is full. I go with a couple of friends and Flor flits from table to table talking through the daily specials and laughing and joking with regulars. A couple at the bar feed tapas to their toddler. We ponder a short, but nicely executed menu of French classics and a handful of crowdpleasers from the Mediterranean rim. Unfortunately the oysters won’t arrive until Thursday, she tells us, but the burratta is magnificent as is today’s fish special: sepia (cuttlefish) lovingly stewed with white wine, garlic and parsley. After years of living here I still struggle to get excited about sepia unless it’s in the form of an albondiga (meatball), which we all agree is pretty magnificent stuff, so we opt instead to share rillettes (shredded pork seasoned with spices and fat), duck pâté and a dish of sundried tomatoes. It’s so thoroughly French that for a moment there I think I may have crossed the border: the rillettes lush, meaty and unapologetically laden with fatty goodness topped off with a handful of crunchy cornichons; the pâté darkly livery and rich as you like; the tomatoes plump and sweet as the long hot summer they came from. All but one of us had the beef Milanesa, best described as a meatbased pizza with a topping of wildly tomatoey tomato sauce, melted

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mozzarella and fragrant oregano. Our friend opted for deeply savoury meatballs, while Flor bustled around bringing out various sides for sharing—they’re not on the menu, they just come, and on this night comprised grilled mixed wild mushrooms, a simple green salad and fennel slaw with a mustard dressing and mashed potato. “Just like at home,” she smiled, like a benevolent friend who’s casually thrown together something marvellous for dinner. There simply wasn’t room for pudding, but we were happy with what we had had along with a couple of bottles of red garnacha from the Terra Alta (a great match with the food, and keenly priced at €14), and a thimbleful of grappa served in flea-market-find glasses to cap it all off. When the bill came, it just tipped €100 for four. As it was the same day on which the headlines screamed of Europe being in “deep depression”—‘recession’ evidently no longer covers the mess we’re in—such a price was very welcome indeed.

Lo de Flor—Carrettes 18 (Raval), Tel. 93 443 3853 Approx €30 per head for three courses including wine. Tara’s rating: ✪✪✪

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fter five years and countless thousands of euros in renovation, the long-awaited Fàbrica Moritz finally opened its doors in December after 30-odd years of near abandonment. The original brewery on the Ronda Sant Antoni was established by an Alsatian brewer in 1856 and the beer was made in Barcelona right up until the Seventies. Moritz started brewing again in Zaragoza in 2000, but finally, after a 21st-century facelift at the hands of acclaimed French architect Jean Nouvel (who also did Barcelona’s Torre Agbar), Moritz is back home in the motherland. In creating a new home for such an iconic beer, Nouvel has been true to the provenance of the building, keeping the exposed red brick of the industrial era and the coloured concrete tiles beloved of Modernisme and mixing them up with polished concrete floors and columns throughout the vast, 4,000-square-metre property. It is now split into several areas over two floors that incorporate a concept shop selling Brompton bicycles, a bakery, cerveseria, wine bar and restaurant as well as the cellars and brewing rooms of Moritz. Stainless steel tanks and original copper fermentation vats are on display on the ground floor, while the cellars have been transformed into a veritable ‘temple to beer’, featuring an eye-popping open fireplace hooded by three sturdy water pipes and amber light-boxes evocative

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of what’s going on in the vats upstairs. The final touches are provided by a scattering of mirrored pyramids reflecting what’s happening on the street outside. By sheer size alone, it could feel rather impersonal and disjointed, but in fact it’s one of the most architecturally exciting public interiors to open in the city in a long while and I can vouch for a decent beer brewed on site. But the food also promises a break from the norm with Jordi Vilà (who has one Michelin star for his restaurant Alkimia) heading the project’s gastronomic direction. Rather than opting for deconstructed foaming potatoes in Martini glasses and fussy newwave tapas, he’s gone for something rather more down-home and pub-like for the cerveseria: his bravas feature a sloppy, cheesy tomato sauce, hunks of pâté and sausage adorn the excellent bread baked in house, and top-notch seafood comes simply grilled or boiled with perhaps a dollop of mayo on the side. The vinoteca—as one might expect—features high-class Spanish bottles with suitable snacks on the side, while the restaurant follows the lines of French brasserie with contemporary Catalan twists.

Fàbrica Moritz: Ronda de Sant Antoni 39-43, tel. 93 423 54 34.

Clockwise, L-R: Outdoor shot of Fàbrica Moritz by Pierre Clémençon; Cerveseria by Pierre Clémençcon; Microbrewery by Albert Marin

quick bites

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For more in food&drink visit our online directory

NEFW &D  under 20 |  20-30 |  30-40 |  over 40 RV Reservation Advised | NEW in food & drink this month



American THE ORIGINAL AMERICAN SUPERMARKET 4Sant Gervasi Good news from Taste of America! All of the products you miss from the U.S.A., from BBQ sauces to breakfast treats, are now in Barcelona. Cheerios, Hershey’s chocolates, peanut butter and jelly, Newman’s Own sauces, Wilton, root beer, Peperidge Farm, marshmallows, macaroni & cheese, bagels and more are just some of the goodies that await discovery. Go visit, you’ll be amazed! And for your convenience, there is public parking right at the rear of the store!

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If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place to get a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! Their menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterfield sofas and impressive decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at 

Balmes 322 I FGC Sant Gervasi Tel. 93 211 9792 I Mon-Fri 10am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-9pm, Sun 11am-2pm

Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat | Tel. 93 453 6445 | Mon-Sun 1pm till late | RV



Barcelona’s first contemporary American restaurant and cocktail bar, now in their fourth year, invite you to indulge your senses. All menu items are made to order and their desserts are baked on the premises by an American chef. To complement your visit, browse their selection of wine and beer from the U.S. including the latest additions from the Brooklyn Brewery.

Ever wished you could share a cocktail with Audrey Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart here in Barcelona? Well now you can! Cinebar brings the golden age of cinema back to Barcelona with original version screenings of everything from Hollywood classics to French New Wave and Italian neo-realism. While you’re there, enjoy a ‘cine sandwich’ made from a selection of rustic breads, a movie-themed salad, fresh juices, smoothies, proper Italian coffee or, of course, a cocktail. 

Villarroel 82 I Metro L1 Urgell/L5 Hospital Clinic Tel. 93 502 4825 I Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, 7pm-1am, Sat 1pm-4pm, 7pm-3am, Sun 7pm-1am


7Sins Bar and Lounge 4EIXAMPLE e


Plaça Cardona 4 | FGC Gràcia Paris 200 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 002 2300 | Open 8am-3am


u can es so yo h subtitl it w p the ackdro sic from d as a b screene cted mu le e s y ll refu y the ca BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA u could also enjo o y flaherty's4BARRI GÒTIC d e s. h verBewis cktails Thirties to the Sixtie o c Do you dream of great bagels? Then a n o Since it was established in 2001, Flaherty’s cel My Bagel is the right place for you. They adeknown are Bar has become one of Barcelona’s best h’ m shjust urn or b sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, andwic p e H ine spubs. ‘cIrish y and busiest By offering food a e y r jo d n how you like them. med ere, e til with Au u can. ovie-the(including o mmidnight you’re th all day from 10am y a They have an extensive range of bagels e , il s w h d o a W N re Irish Breakfast as welleeas our popular stic bFull ff and cakes, from the more classic choices Bogart? on of ru lian coon satellite big Itasports rey h a selecti group menus),ielive such as poppy and multigrain top delicious m proper o m s,sunny fr u H th o screens, WiFi, a terrace and a pool o m s , and innovative chocolate, almond and s a e is ic a ju rdon esh room where you can also play darts, not coconut bagels - you’ll not come away salad, fr Plaza Ca to mention tail. its very spacious premises, EBAR in ’s IN disappointed.  C re e d e , a cock th n , ly ope f course Flaherty’s has rightly become known as news is o d r, o o o g The new d the the pub that has it all!  fans an ith C/ ts, for film ur even s, 200 (w ri a P / magnet C n for yo n o o ti a g c in lo n ope erfect wanky r branch is the p vals to s anothe Cinebar lm festi fi nth. i o in m m is th and not nados) jections shaken Gra Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro L3 Fontana Gràcia I Enricand from pro artini – M a , ’s Tel. 93 518 7151 I it ether Xirau | Metro Drassanespagne cocktail a back whJoaquim Open from Mon-Fri 9.30-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, es. SoPlaça am of cinem é h e ir C g o a a s r n o Tel. 93 412 6263 Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm after f . e golde t you’re enings o t you kid brings th oking a ion scre ed – tha lo rr rs Cinebar e ti ’s s v l re a e ebar. H h origin ch it at Cin lona wit to Fren u’ll find to Barce classics o y d o o w Holly are ing from All films everyth ealism. -r o e n Italian ave and 12/20/11 2:18:32 PM New W

40 FOOD & DRINK Bar - Live Music Margarita BLue 4BARRI GÒTIC Located in the heart of old Barcelona, Margarita Blue has become a classic in the city’s bar scene. Delight in the dishes from the ‘‘Mexiterranean” kitchen, such as a variety of tacos, amazing guacamole, fresh carpaccio and tomates verdes fritos or take pleasure in a drink or cocktail whilst appreciating new music and spectacular shows that alternate between theatre and performance art. 

Josep Anselm Clave 6 | Metro Drassanes Tel. 93 412 5489 | | Mon-Fri 1.30pm-4pm, 8pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun 6pm-2.30am | RV

delivery VitaLi PiZZa4 BARCELOnA Gourmet pizza delivery from 3 locations offering 50+ thin-crust, homemade pizzas. With specials like three large cheese pizzas for 15 and the option to pay by credit card, it makes for an affordable meal at home without all the fuss. Special offer: 2X1 on every Monday home delivery! 

Paris 109 I Metro Hospital Clinic Tel. 93 444 4737 Calle Rosselló 270 I Tel. 93 458 0710 Taxdirt 13 I Metro Joanic/Gracia Tel. 93 285 41 95

hard roCK Cafe4CIUTAT vELLA Hard Rock Cafe Barcelona offers an inspired, creative ambience with incredible rock‘n’roll memorabilia on display. Come and taste authentic American food. Their barbecue entrées slow cooked in the cafe’s hardwood smokers are delicious. Visit the bar to try a premium cocktail and check out the live music and special events on offer. Don’t forget to stop at the Rock Shop for fine, classic, cotton T-shirts or a collectable Hard Rock pin. 

Plaça Catalunya 21 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 270 2305 | | Restaurant: Sun-Thurs 12am-2am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 12am-3am | Rock Shop: Sun-Thurs 10am-1.30am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 10am-2am

gourMet eXPreSS 4BARCELOnA ‘Lunch Box’ by Gourmet Express. The best alternative to pizza or Asian food. A new concept in Barcelona; they are specialists in delivering high-quality food to your home or office at reasonable prices. They can deliver within 30 minutes, exquisite menús, made by our own chefs using only the freshest products. Traditional Catalan and Mediterranean food to satisfy the most discerning palate, thoughtfully served with all you might need, including metal cutlery and glasses. All so you can enjoy food in the comfort of your home or office. Free delivery to readers of Barcelona Metropolitan.  Pasaje Milans 28 | Tel. 93 260 0789

LiLiBurger:4BARCELOnA You can choose from four types of burger: classic, cheeseburger, barbecue as well as bacon cheese, for 8 to 9.50. Sides include fries, bbq chicken wings, chicken nuggets and salads. Free delivery.  Tel. 93 458 0710 Tue-Sun1pm-4pm and 7pm-11pm

international the dog iS hot4RAvAL Taste the best hotdogs in town! Choose from more than 20 different toppings and sauces, including a vegetarian option with tofu sausage. Our specialities will surprise, with crazy flavours from all around the world. Joaquin Costa 47 I Near Plz. Universidad and MACBA Museum I T. 93 185 9517 Open every day 1pm-11pm, delivery fri-sun 7pm-11pm or call for our delivery service

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fahrenheit4EIXAMPLE E Fahrenheit is a cosmopolitan location that combines fine dining within a modern sophisticated lounge. Already a highly-rated kitchen, Fahrenheit’s restaurant recently introduced an acclaimed new chef and completely new menu. Each dish originates from a different country and is carefully elaborated to respect the traditions of that cuisine while adding a very contemporary touch. Fahrenheit is the perfect place to savour your meal and relax with a drink after dinner. Try one of our carefully prepared cocktails or maybe something from our extensive list of gin and tonics—the house speciality. Fahrenheit’s new ‘Afterwork Lounge’, is a great place to enjoy a complimentary tapa with a glass of wine or international beer to help you unwind after a long day in the office. 

Aribau 131 | Metro Diagonal/Hospital Clinic | Tel. 93 531 3435 |

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food &drink

Firstly there’s the food. Using only the finest quality ingredients, the kitchen specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with an international twist and plenty of options for vegetarians. Try their quinoa and tofu burgers or a sinful home-made dessert. Secondly, there’s Gut’s attention to detail and the friendly, respectful service. It’s the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the night in good company. Try it for yourself and find out why everyone is talking about Gut. 

If you want to enjoy the best sushi service in the city, this is your place! Sushiexpress takes great pride in using top quality ingredients to ensure excellent sushi. They are conveniently located in two places in the city: l’Eixample and Santaló, and they can deliver it to your home or hotel. Delivery is from 1pm-3pm and from 8pm-11pm. You can choose individual pieces of maki, nigiri, sashimi, temaki, menus, combos, and other Japanese specialties from an extensive menu that you can check on their website. If you eat at any of their locations at noon the menus are accompanied by a free drink. 

Perill 13 I Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 186 6360 I

Consell de Cent 255 | Tel. 93 451 5454 Open 12pm-4pm, 7pm-11pm 365days/year! Delivery 1pm-3pm, 8pm-10.30pm


to advertise in this section please call 93 451 4486 or email

ice Cream Shop

BeLLaMia heLaderia itaLiana4BORn After a long day of discovering Barcelona, people queue up to taste Bellamia’s exquisite gelato. The reason: friendly staff, an excellent location, but most of all, delicious, freshly made ice cream that gets rave reviews from everyone who’s tried it. 

Epaseria 14 | Metro Jaume I | Tel. 93 310 4210 1pm-midnight (50m from Santa Maria del Mar)


Japanese - Sushi


naKaShita4BORn Nakashita is Barcelona’s newest sushi restaurant, a cosy place where you can enjoy the best Japanese food and freshest seafood. Located close to the Arc de Triomf, the restaurant feels like an authentic Japanese tavern with a very intimate atmosphere. Enjoy your delicious food along with wine, Japanese beer or sake. 

Rec Comtal 15 | Metro Arc De Triomf, Tel. 93 295 5378 | Mon-Sun 1.30pm-4.30pm, 8.30pm-12am

nirVana4EIXAMPLE Located in the heart of Barcelona, Nirvana is a relaxed and intimate place, inspired by the refined esthetics of Oriental culture with modernist touches. They provide an original mix of Indian style and the latest trends from the world’s major capitals, creating a special environment that transports you to a place of feelings, tastes and nuances that make any visit to Nirvana an unforgettable experience. From noon, you can enjoy a creative menu that combines a selection of traditional Indian flavours with Mediterranean cuisine, and features exquisite details of Oriental cuisine. Later on, enjoy their Club Lounge where Nirvana offers excellent service in an area designed for you to enjoy a varied menu of drinks and cocktails, as well as a live event or show.   

Pau Claris 96 | Metro Passeig de Gràcia | Tel. 93 270 3585 | | Mon-Fri 1pm-4pm, Mon-Sun 8pm-3am

indian - hindu toyo - SuShi train4GRÀCIA Among the youth it’s the most sought after Sushi Train Restaurant in Barcelona. It’s the absolute place to be if you’re in with the in crowd and always packed five minutes after opening. It has a quality buffet with super fresh food prepared daily, Toyo is the place to go. Not only do they have a huge amount of different types of dishes, but you can also eat as much as your heart desires. Choose what you like while it passes in front of you, you don’t have to spend a fortune to get great service. Toyo gives you amazing food for a good price. The midday menu is only 10 and the evening one is 15.  Torrent del Olla 10 | T. 93 459 2630 Open 1.30pm-4pm, 8.30pm-Midnight Closed Mon night

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Veg WorLd4GRÀCIA Discover a world of sensations in a relaxed and homely atmosphere. Try vegetarian delicacies from all over the world such as delicious bread home-made in a Tandoori oven and south Indian dishes like Masala dosa and Idly. Daily continental and Indian menus, 9.50 inc. Free soup and salad buffet. 

Bruniquer 26 | Metro Plaça Joanic Tel. 93 210 7056 | Tues-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.30pm

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42 FOOD & DRINK Juice and Smoothie Bar JuiCy JoneS 4BARRI GÒTIC Barcelona’s emblematic juice bar now also serves vegan breakfast that includes tortilla de patata, muesli with raw cashew yogurt, muffins, waffles, coffee and tea. Chill out in the bar for smoothies or enjoy a sandwich or a full meal in the restaurant. 

Cardenal Casañas 7 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 302 4330 Every day 10am-Midnight


Want a healthy, tasty alternative? Try a refreshing smoothie like Antioxidant, Mango & Passion Fruit or Coco Muesli (3.80) or a delicious juice made only with fresh blended fruit and no added water, milk or sugar (3.60). Can’t decide? Try one of their convenient combos from 4.50.  Gran de Gràcia 16 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 93 217 8115 Jaume 1 | Metro Jaume I | Tel. 93 310 3247 Creu Coberta 50 | Metro Espanya | Tel. 93 117 0891 Every day 10am-8pm | |

Mexican frida'S4EIXAMPLE D In the heart of L’Eixample Dret, Frida’s is an inviting spot dedicated to the great Mexican painter Frida Kahlo. Taste exquisite regional cuisine from both northern and southern Mexico, as well as traditional specialties. Margaritas, Mexican beers and many types of tequila. Ask for our “Al Pastor” tacos offer of Thursday and Fridays! 

Bruc 115 | T. 93 457 5409 | Metro Girona Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-midnight. Bar open all day. Lunch menu €10.30 Mon-Fri

roMero4 EIXAMPLE D Located in the centre of the city, just a few streets from Passeig de Grácia, this exquisite and charming restaurant serves fresh, organic produce sourced directly from local markets. The staff are determined to share their love for Barcelona and its culinary wonders and only use the best ingredients to create their delicious dishes. The idea behind the restaurant was to create a unique space where good friends could come together and enjoy great Mediterranean food and wine. The chef at Romero, José Antonio Camacaro León, has an unmatched passion for food and offers his guests creative, natural dishes based on Mediterranean cuisine. With options for vegetarians and gluten-free menu items, there’s something to suit all tastes. Be sure to check out the great value set menus and daily specials too.  Bailén 115 | Metro Verdaguer or Girona | Tel. 93 457 0640 | | Mon to Sat Lunch starting at 1pm Mon-Fri 5pm-9pm, Thu-Sat Dinner starting at 8.30pm

Catalan/Mediterranean CerCLe d’aMiCS 4EIXAMPLE Enjoy high level gastronomy at this classy new restaurant headed by chef Jani Paasikoski and offers an exciting blend of traditional Catalan and Mediterranean cuisine with an exciting modern style. By using fresh produce and seasonal flavours, they create interesting and delicate dishes which are sure to arouse your senses. At night, the soft lighting and comfortable surroundings provide the perfect atmosphere for you to relax and enjoy their fantastic cocktails. Daily menu 16. 


Boo4POBLE nOU BOO Restaurant has a privileged location on the coast of Barcelona and it’s the perfect space to organize meetings between friends, business meetings, events, etc. Boo has daily activities and weekend, daytime and evening entertainment to group bookings and special events. In Boo Restaurant you can enjoy the best Mediterranean cuisine in its two restaurants: The Restaurant and Boo Mirador and we have different menus for groups, cocktail menus, vegetarian menu, snack menus.  Nova Mar Bella Beach, S/N, Espigó de Bac de Roda 1 Metro Poble Nou (L4) | Tel. 93 225 0100 | Tue - Sat 12pm-2.30pm, Sun,12pm-18pm Closed Sun and Mon night.

Rosselló 209, 08008 | Metro Diagonal Tel. 93 237 8902 Open every day 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-11pm Closed Sat lunch and Sun

Mediterranean MagnoLia 4 BARRI GÒTIC

In the heart of the Gothic quarter, Magnolia offers exquisite signature cuisine from chef Gianni Fusco at affordable prices. With its warm and loungy interior, it is the place of choice at any time of the day. During the week, breakfast and lunch menus attract huge crowds thanks to their great quality and reasonable prices. During the afternoon, clients can choose from a variety of tapas or enjoy mojitos for just 3.50. 


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Breakfast from 2.70, Lunch from 9, Dinner menu 17.95 (Sun-Thurs) 25 (Fri-Sat) Ciutat 5 | Metro Jaume I | 93 304 2376 | 691 504 942 | | Mon-Thurs 9am-1am, Fri 9am-3am, Sat 1pm-3am, Sun 1pm-1am

BarnaBier4PORT OLÍMPIC Located at the base of the Mapfre tower at Port Olimpic Barnabier specialise in Mediterranean cuisine, paellas, fresh seafood, tapas and have a great list of international beers. Their fantastic menu also includes salads, grilled meat and pasta with something to suit all tastes. For group reservations consult their website for the complete menu.  Marina 16 | Metro Port Olimpic Tel. 93 221 0212 |

Visit online

Our Restaurant Directory at

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FOOD & DRINK 43 Patisserie goVinda (Vegetarian) 4BARRI GÒTIC

MaS PaStiSSerS Established in 1966, Mas Pastissers have a long tradition of pastry-making in Barcelona. Since then, they’ve continued to create explosions of flavours in their patisseries. Through experience and research they’re constantly improving to make small works of art. All of Mas Pasitssers’ products are made from the perspective that they have a personal responsibility to their customers to help them maintain a healthy and balanced diet. The Slow Food philosophy is found in their line of products. Lunch menú available. 

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. 

Placa Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya Tel. 93 318 7729 | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

Còrsega 398 | Tel. 93 207 0764 Passeig Maragall 66 | Tel. 93 455 1987 Passeig Maragall 269 | Tel. 93 435 4873

take-away JuiCy JoneS – Vegan reStaurant 4RAvAL

PiM PaM Burger4BORn

Barcelona’s best vegan restaurant , Juicy Jones never compromises on freshness or quality. They serve a range of Mediterranean and Indian cuisine with a funky ambience they also offer a large variety of freshly squeezed fruit juices and smoothies. Don’t be fooled by imitations. Go Juicy! 

Here quality is of the upmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises. 

Hospital 74 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 443 9082 | Every day 12pm-1am

Vietnamese La VietnaMita 4GRÀCIA

Sabateret 4 I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 I www. I Every day 1pm-12am

La Vietnamita is a new food concept in the heart of Gràcia - offering fresh and healthy Vietnamese inspired cuisine. They offer light and nutritious dishes such as traditional ‘Pho’ soup, the typical rice noodle dish ‘Bun Xiau’ and classic ‘Goi Cuon’ spring rolls. All their dishes are prepared in the moment and served with ingredients that are naturally full of flavour. Veggies and vegans: They have a lot to offer you, too! So what are you waiting for?  Torrent de L’Olla 78 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 93 518 1803 |

thai thai graCia4GRÀCIA Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 11 menú del diá is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more. 

Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV

Vegetarian aMaLtea4EIXAMPLE E Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant, where a warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Menu of the day 10.70, night and weekend menu 15.30. 

Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11pm, Closed Sun

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Bun Bo ViÊtnaM4BARRI GÒTIC Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes. Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace. The kitchen is open non-stop all day. 

Sagristans 3 | Metro Urquinaona | Tel. 93 301 1378 | | Every day 1pm-1am

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Business directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: See also our online directory at


* Discount for Metropolitan readers. Check our website for details.

Scissors of London -


Carrer Viladomat 45-47, Atico M. 633 382 787

Pintor Fortuny 14, Raval Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3) T. 93 302 3379 Open Mon 4pm-8pm, Tues-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-8pm

BRITISH HAIRDRESSER Tim aspires to listen to your needs and suggests how they might be met in distinctive and exciting ways. Style is unique and Tim will craft you a look achieving a harmony of shape and style. Tim has been hairdressing for over 12 years. Having trained, taught and worked in London’s top salons including Toni & Guy and Vidal Sassoon. Opting out of salon life, Tim works to fit in with the modern pace of life and offers a one to one service orientated around your needs.

Kinki peluqueros is an international hairstyling group from Holland with over 40 salons in their home country. They put their heart and soul into cutting and colouring the most beautiful hairstyles, from the latest trends to classic cuts. If you bring a friend for a full treatment they will give you both a 15% discount and a free glass of cava. English, Spanish, Dutch, German and French speaking.

Anthony Llobet English Hair Salon - HAIRDRESSER


Don’t let your Spanish come between you and your hair. Anglo-Catalan Anthony Llobet has over 20 years’ experience in hairstyling and a passion for excellent client service. Anthony leads a dedicated team of stylists who specialise in a variety of services, including Afro hair, extensions, straightening and make-up (and speak over 11 languages between them). The original retro interior and friendly staff create a very special atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy a stylish cut. Put your trust in Anthony and the team, who are strongly committed to providing you with outstanding service at affordable prices.

What sets apart an Aveda beauty professional? Their mission is to bring out their client’s natural beauty. Aveda partners with salon and spa professionals around the world. They see beauty as a craft and believe that authentic beauty is one that works in harmony with nature. Authentic beauty cares for the environment we inherited and that we’ll leave to the generations that follow us. Authentic beauty cares about society, creating harmony in the way we live and the way we interact with one another as human beings. Taller lives this mission to the full, offering gentle and natural hair and beauty treatments in a unique and beautiful space in the heart of the Born.

Gràcia, C/Ros de Olano 19 T. 93 218 0449 / M. 692 371 307 Raval, C/Sant Pau 122 T. 93 441 3177 / M. 692 371 308 El Born, C/Carders 34 T.93 295 4871 / M. 692 371 404 Gòtic, C/Avinyó 34 T. 93 301 4513 / M. 692 371 405

Pescateria 8, Born T. 93 315 0980 Metro: Barceloneta (L4) Open Mon 2pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 11am-8pm

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La Hair Boutique -


Trained by Toni & Guy London, Veronique runs a friendly salon with a dedicated team who speak English, Spanish, French and Swedish. La Hair Boutique is a relaxed and cosy salon that offers progressive cuts and colours with great style advice too. They are especially talented at creating new, personalised looks using the latest techniques.

Plaça Regomir 5 Metro: Jaume 1 (L4). T. 93 269 1937 M. 699 643 462


The Vital Touch -

*READER MASSAGE DISCOUNT Start your New Year 2012 with the ‘Complete Healthy You’ programme. It includes weight management, personal fitness, therapeutic massage. The benefits to you: • Eat and live like a confident, healthy person achieving your ideal weight. • Enjoy exercise, tone up and renew your energy. • Feel relaxed, detoxified, free of pain. Ask about this fabulous six-month programme offered at a special discounted rate! M. 659 995 657

VeterCat Melisa Oddo


The best at-home veterinary care for your pet in the province of Barcelona. French and English-speaking veterinarian. Vaccination, general medicine, behaviour problems, emergencies, etc. Thanks to her love for animals, Melisa Oddo offers you the best vet service in your home. Try it for yourself and be impressed.

Professional and friendly, the Bonavet veterinary clinic provides veterinary consultations, x-rays, analyses and surgery. They can also advise you on dietary requirements and stock a complete range of special food products, beds and toys to keep your pets healthy and happy. If you make an appointment you can even bring your pet down for a grooming session and trim.


M. 620 157 753

Plaça Bonanova 10 T. 93 211 0204

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care for the English-speaking community in Barcelona with access to all medical specialties and tests.

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro: Les Corts (L3) T. 93 330 2412 M. 627 669 524 Open Mon-Sat

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 FGC Diagonal or Gràcia

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BCNMED - INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL CONSULTING An integrative health care service that combines scientific and medical expertise with a deep, sensitive understanding of each person’s needs. Our complete, impartial and independent support will provide you with the best medical solutions available in modern medicine. Seamless access in the most prestigious professionals in healthcare. Clear and simple diagnostics and clinical results. A break down of geographical and linguistic barriers.

M. 605 513 774

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Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

Pharmacy Serra Mandri


For all your dental needs, a team consisting of our first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. We have more than 30 years of experience and are pleased to offer you our services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemist can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service.

Rosselló 95, local, 08029, Barcelona Metro: Hospital Clinic (L5) Entença (L5) T. 93 322 9114 Fax. 93 322 0220

Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemist T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

Dr. Christian Eickhoff deutsche zk - DENTIST

Tingsvall & McCarthy -

Highly recommended among the international community uses the latest in dental technology like digital prothetics and orthodontics. The whole german team is English speaking and the doctor has an American training in implantology and orthodontics. Check-ups and X-rays are free. Centrally located

Dr. Stefan Tingsvall offers general dentistry, orthodontics, prosthodontics and endodontics, whilst Elena McCarthy is a qualified dental hygienist and specialises in comprehensive preventative care and tooth whitening Bright Smile. Together, they aim to provide a relaxing and pleasant experience for the patient.

Consell de Cent 249, bajos Metro Universitat (L1/L2) T. 93 323 9629

Castellnou 47 T. 93 205 1903 M. 636 312 522 / 696 664 430 FGC Les Tres Torres (L6) Bus: 16, 30, 66, 70, 72, 74 Open Mon-Sat


American Chiropractic Center - Doctors of Chiropractic


Do you suffer from problems such as lower back pain, sciatica, neck pain, headaches, shoulder and articular pain, discal hernia, fibromyalgia, or stress? Dr Chiappinelli and his team pride themselves on providing friendly and professional chiropractic care, with the clear aim of improving the patient’s health. The clinics, located in Barcelona and Sitges, have individual treatment rooms which are equipped with the most up-to-date and innovative technology. Dr. Chiappinelli and his team all qualified from the top American and French universities and have worked for 20 years to ensure and provide an unbeatable service. They speak English, French, German and Italian. Make an appointment at one of the clinics and let the team help you to reach your maximum health potential.

As a trained Life Coach, Counsellor and Emotional Therapist, I will help you to change situations you don’t like in your life. Life is your opportunity to learn and understand, and what life asks of you in return is to achieve that understanding so that you feel happy and gleaming with content. You did not come here to suffer, live in rage, envy, rancor, resentment, dissatisfaction or sadness; but to laugh, love and feel lucky. Maybe you have limiting or painful thoughts that make you believe that “this is all there is,” but in reality you have within your reach the fascinating power to change your way of life and relate to other people with well-being and happiness (even though right now it seems difficult or impossible).

Barcelona: Pau Claris, 139 3o 2a T. 93 487 5035 Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L3, L5) Sitges: Rafael Llopart 74, T. 93 811 0101

M. 676 698 529

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Eugenia Espinosa PSYCHOTHERAPY

Eugenia is a dedicated professional who specialises in psychological issues related to immigration. She offers effective treatment for mood and anxiety disorders as well as couples and family therapy. The first consultation with Eugenia is free.

M. 677 090 479


Network of English Speaking Therapists Established in 2000

NEST is a dedicated multi-disciplinary team of English-speaking therapists who provide professional services to individuals, families, schools and companies. Established in 2000, their highlyqualified, licensed psychologists, psychotherapists and psychiatrists offer outstanding services in English and several other languages. For more details on their practitioners, visit their website or see their advertisement in the main pages.

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team work with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese and Greek and the first consultation is free.

Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Metro: Joanic (L4) T. 93 459 2802

Jonathan Lane Hooker -


Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

T. 93 590 7654 M. 639 579 646

Berta Garcia, M.D, MsC. -



Having specialized in neurobiology and anxiety disorders for her Masters at the University of Maastricht and Florence, she is also well experienced in adult and child psychiatry in both public and private systems. As an English-speaking psychiatrist, she has worked for many renowned international institutions providing an excellent service with multidisciplinary treatment. Manuel Isaías López, MD, PhD Claudia Ros Tusquets MA Clinical Psychologist Child and Adolescent Psychiatrist & Psychoanalyst & Psychotherapist M./626 934 102 962 657 232 570 641 692 686 991 742

All NEST professionals are Licensed / Certified


English - Spanish - Catalan - Dutch - German - Italian

Krishinda Powers Duff Bsc Hons - Midwife

Krishinda is a fully-qualified and trained British midwife offering home birth and home dilatation service. She also provides antenatal and postnatal care and support to mothers and babies for six weeks after birth. She is supported in her practice by a team of Spanish but British-trained midwives and alternative health care professionals as well as a breast feeding consultant/Doula. Midwife means ‘to be with woman’.


Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialised in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.

M. 644 193 825

Kathryn McConkey -


Kathryn McConkey is a fully-qualified, English- (and Spanish-) speaking osteopath in Barcelona, based at Aralia Centre Mèdic, and a member of the Spanish Registrar of Osteopaths. Osteopathy can be beneficial for cases of acute or chronic neck and back pain and tendonitis, as well as for digestive disorders, headaches, insomnia and much more. Treatments are apt for all age groups, including children and the elderly.

M. 665 143 437

Marenostrum Centre de Salut familiar

Fontanella 16 Principal, 08010

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M. 609 143 690

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Clustermedica Laser treatment


The B-Cure lazer provides relief and treatment for a wide range of orthopedic problems in the neck, back and joints that generally result from bad posture, excessive use of a computer keyboard or sports injuries. Now you can stop pain and heal the source with just a six-minute treatment, twice a day. It’s ready to use anywhere, lightweight and rechargeable. If you’re suffering from this type of injury, then call now or visit their website for more information.

Steve is a fully-qualified, professional personal trainer, who has worked with some of the strongest British and American athletes (UK strength coach for national judo team) and is now enjoying bringing these benefits to motivated private clients in the Barcelona area and beyond. After years of experience and with a fun, personalised and hands-on approach, he guarantees an impressive change in your physical fitness, energy levels and confidence.

T. 90 210 6989 Vidal i Guash 13

M. 635 661 961



Explore Barcelona in style with Via Vespa. Rent a new and automatic Italian Vespa LX 50 and go from the beach to the hills, dive into the city centre and find your way through the charming little streets of Barcelona. Rent your vespa by the hour or take a tour with friends. The coolest way to see the city.

The Inysi Industrial team are professionals in plumbing and electrical services, air conditioning and satellite installation. Providing services for over 60 years to households and companies, no job is too big or too small for them. If you’re looking for someone reliable that you can trust, then get in touch today.

Princesa 56 T. 93 319 6754 M. 656 860 471

M. 657 994 630 Alcolea 42, Bajos Metro: Plaça de Sants (L1, L5)



Looking for help without the worry of getting lost in translation? This experienced team of builders provide a range of services, including renovations, bespoke carpentry, kitchens and bathrooms, decoration, shopfitting, electrical installations, IT networks, satellite TV, architectural services and exhibition stands. Get in touch with tProject for an obligationfree quote.

Advalua is a team of architects and professionals that can find and/or reform the property for sale or rent that you’re looking for, whether to live or work in. They offer a complete range of services: they inspect and evaluate properties; carry out renovation estimates and projects as well as coordinate all the work to be done; process the permits, technical documents and everything you need.

Contact: John Steven Thorp T. 93 460 7803 M. 691 664 806

M.693 726 721

Graham Collins -


Graham Collins is an experienced interior designer and property consultant and can help with everything concerning property, design and decoration. So, whether you need help working out the property market or are looking for someone to renovate your home, Graham is here to help you.

Corase specialise in international removals and have a worldwide network of agents. You can trust them with any type of move, big or small. Their staff are attentive to each client’s needs and are trained to ensure that you get quality, speed and security. Corase also offer a range of other services, including storage facilities. They will be happy to give you a free quote.

Consolat del Mar 35, 3er Metro: Barceloneta (L4) M. 678 757 511

Av. Diagonal 249 Metro: Monumental (L2) T. 90 070 2270 (free)

Interior Design

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Steve Elite Fitness -

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Aspasios Rentals & Services - PROPERTY

VanBCN offers experience, good service and inexpensive rates to make your move or removal safe and easy. Whether you are looking for man with a van for a quick move or if you want to do a complete removal, just call or send your request online. VanBCN adapts its service to your needs. They can pick up your stuff or take it to the port, airport or storage. Deliver home your purchases from IKEA or any other shop. Move your office, your room or your house. Just contact VanBCN. They know how to do it.


Staying at Aspasios in Barcelona and Madrid is the perfect way to enjoy Spain. Feel at home in a new city while staying in a luxurious furnished apartment. Aspasios provides accommodation for days, months or years. They offer check-in at any time and day of the year as well as a 24hr phone service. Aspasios has multicultural staff willing to welcome you in different languages.

T. 93 426 7684 M. 647 533 344

Adriana Romero T. 93 304 1448

Spaces for rent - PROPERTY

Flat for sale - PROPERTY

They offer a range of rooms and spaces for rent at a low price. Perfect for a variety of classes and events like yoga, theatre, dancing, business meetings, seminars and rehearsals. They have different sized rooms at Liceu, Plaça Catalunya and Plaça Espanya that are both clean and comfortable with central heating, A/C, tables and chairs to suit your needs. You can rent their space by the hour, half or full day, weeks or months. For more information please call Jubran.

Flat for sale (71m2) in the up and coming area of Poble-sec. 5th floor (including Principal) in a listed building with a lift. 3 bedrooms, lounge/ dining room, kitchen, bathroom and store room. Central heating and air conditioning, double glazing with aluminium frames and 3 balconies with lots of light. In the heart of Barcelona, 15 minutes to Las Ramblas and to the port. Well maintained, ideal for investors. Price: €245,000.

To view call Victor M. 661 673 390

T. 93 303 4154

Benjamin Franklin -


The Benjamin Franklin International School in Barcelona offers a differentiated, American curriculum from nursery to grade 12; English language college-preparatory education, including learning support and foreign language programs; Fully accredited, with strong academic programs: American High School diploma, Spanish Baccalaureate Certificate, and IB Diploma program; Active Parent Teacher Association and welcoming global community

Study Spanish in one of Spain’s most established and prestigious language schools. Since 1982 Metropol have provided high-quality language training to students of all nationalities. The school is right in the heart of Barcelona city centre and it’s a great place to learn or improve your Spanish. It’s a popular and specialised school, with more than 27 years of experience and they offer great value Spanish courses for all levels.


Martorell i Peña 9 T. 93 434 2380 F. 93 417 3633

T. 93 301 8241 Pau Claris 87, 1o1a Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4)

One-to-One -

Versión Original -

SPANISH CLASSES Learn exactly what you need with one-to-one Spanish classes in the office or at home. Focus your classes on the language and vocabulary that best serves you according to your own personal or professional needs. Business Spanish and small group classes are also available. Get confident in Spanish with Pilar.

M. 610 057 266

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Spanish for foreigners


The experienced teachers at Versión Original are thrilled to share their enthusiasm for the Spanish language and culture. This small city centre school, with classes of no more than 10 students, is devoted to languages, especially Spanish. There’s a great atmosphere here and a 5% discount for Metropolitan readers.

Gran Via 636, 1o 1a A Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 412 4576

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Kingsbrook -

Languages4Life -



Kingsbrook have been helping people learn Spanish in a simple, pleasant and fun way since 1985. The school is located in the heart of Barcelona and has a team of experienced and dedicated staff. In order to create an optimal learning environment, the school ensures that classes have only between 7-10 students.

Languages4Life is a small school in a charming building in the heart of Eixample. Our teaching method is visual and intuitive thanks to our interactive classrooms which have tactile whiteboards and internet. We have inspirational native teachers who have experience in language instruction. Access to internet on Macs or via WiFi.

Trav. de Gràcia 60 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) T. 93 209 3763

València 275 3o Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 487 5116 Skype languages4life

BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN L.I.P. Languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.

T. 93 318 6591

Análoga Traducciones -


Bindung - LANGUAGE SCHOOL Learn Spanish with them in Barcelona, it’s easy! There are new courses starting every month and you can choose between 10, 20 or 30 hours a week in the morning or afternoon. The school promises small groups, and conversational or business classes are also available. They have over 50 years experience and guarantee the best teaching quality to achieve successful results. Those at Bindung consider themselves to be a leading reference for any cultural, entrepreneurial or formative action between cultures. One of their main purposes is to create a meeting space to encourage Spanish learning and facilitate communication between cultures. Their courses aim to train students to achieve a good command of Spanish by focusing on reading, listening, writing and speaking. Ausiàs March 26 Metro: Urquinaona (L1) T. 93 311 5824

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 606 308 932

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Análoga offers you a wide range of quality services: · Translations: Specialised native translators. · Legally-certified translations: Official translators appointed by the Spanish Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Cooperation. · Interpreting: Qualified professional interpreters. Rental and installation of equipment for simultaneous interpreting. Paseo de Gracia 122, 3º 1ª Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) T. 93 412 4618

ZumoSEO -

DIGITAL MARKETING SERVICES Increase the visibility of your website, brand and online presence with a powerful digital marketing campaign. Engage with and grow your customer base online, to help increase your business revenue. They do all the work for you: Develop and manage your digital marketing strategy; SEO; video production and marketing; Pay-PerClick campaigns (PPC); email marketing; content marketing; social media and professional web design. M. 679 952 795

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Guitar lessons - MUSIC

Mrs.Q design studio GRAPHIC DESIGN

Alen holds Master of Music and Bachelor of Music degrees in guitar performance, and has been teaching all levels of guitar for over 18 years. He accepts students for private or online/ Skype lessons. His students have been top prize winners in numerous guitar competitions and have gone on to earn performance degrees at major universities throughout Europe.

Need a logo, brochure or poster? Mrs.Q design studio can design it for you. They work in partnership with their clients to ensure that their visions can be expanded upon to create a unique solution. Mrs.Q design studio has a fresh and creative outlook on every project. Whether you want branding, website design, tailor made wedding invitations or advertising—let them come up with a visionary original design.

M. 699 260 938

T. 652 477 269

Libby Barnes -

François Roudière (Dip. Mus,

Ever dreamed of playing the piano? Now you can, with enthusiastic teacher Libby Barnes. Libby has over 15 years’ experience and can teach a variety of styles, including classical, jazz, blues and rock. Everybody from complete beginners to the advanced can improve with every session. It is never too late to learn, and Libby’s classes are available to all ages, at all levels.

François has 18 years’ experience teaching music and languages in the UK to both adults and children. He will adapt to every individual requirement and tailor his lessons to the needs and pace of each student. Learn to play the piano for fun, to entertain your friends or study for the ABRSM or other exams. He teaches beginners to intermediate level. If you wish, you can also practise your French, English or Spanish while you learn the piano.



M. 603 506 861

M. 679 796 281

Europa Digital - TELEVISION SERVICE Tired of being out the loop on the best documentaries or are you a secret soap fan? Or, maybe you’re just missing your favourite television programmes from home. There’s no need to miss out anymore—now you can see all of your favourite channels here in Barcelona! Europa Digital are licensed and fully insured to install all satellite systems, including a whole range of channels from BBC HD, Freesat, itv hd, Sky, Sky 3d, Sky Sports and many more. They can also supply all European systems and viewing cards. They were the first company to start operating in Catalunya and, as well as private installations, they have worked for hotel groups and put multi-systems in apartment blocks.The experienced and professional team give friendly advice to ensure that you receive the best package to suit your needs. They are the only company of their kind with a registered office and a 24-hour helpline. Visit their showroom before you buy or call them now for a free quotation. They are fully licensed and insured. Floridablanca 78 Metro: Sant Antoni (L2) T. 93 325 1797 M. 666 556 452 Sant Josep, 32, Sitges T. 93 894 72 99

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BritSat - TELEVISION SERVICE BritSat offer great television packages so you’ll never have to miss your favourite TV programmes again. Craving a bit of classic comedy, your favourite soap or just fed up of feeling out of the loop of the best TV at home? BritSat will install the full package you choose for a great price. Take your pick from some of the best television in Europe as they install British, Dutch, German, Italian and French satellite TV. The team will create tailor-made installations to suit your requirements, always aiming to find the most discreet location for the dish and cables. BritSat provides excellent customer care and can also incorporate sound systems and multi-screen viewing.

M. 649 605 917

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Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE Easi-Sat are specialists in satellite TV, HD and audio-visual installations and are unmatched for quality and reliability. The professional team provides satellite television from across Europe and a personal, efficient and friendly service. Contact them now for a free quote and special New Year offers.


Brumwell Brokers -


Smartsat - TELEVISION SERVICE Want to watch UK television? Smartsat was set up in 2002 to offer people living in Spain the choice of watching their favourite UK TV channels including the BBC, ITV, Channel 4, Five and the entire FreeSat platform. They have since gone from strength to strength and have installed systems for hundreds of satisfied customers. They’ll build a package perfect for you, whether it’s an individual satellite installation for your home, or multiple installations for offices. Based in Barcelona, the team can go to homes and businesses across Catalunya. Choose from a variety of packages including Standard, Plus (integrated hard drive) and Plus HD (High Definition). A full after-sales service is available and all of the equipment provided is guaranteed. Get in contact with Smartsat today, for all of your satellite needs.

M. 610 092 848

Spain Accounting TAX AND ACCOUNTING SERVICES Qualified UK accountant with 25 years experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service

They not only care about your wellbeing, they “insure” it. With over 20 years of experience under their belts they can help you will all your insurance needs. Working with most insurance companies they guarantee you the best quote and best cover for what you need. They can even insure your bicycle!! Bromwell Brokers’ service team can also help you with tax, accounting, legal and labour laws. (Set ups, Autonomos). Pl. Gal-la Placidia 1-3 08006 T. 90 262 7810 F. 90 262 7811

Dragon - INSURANCE Whether you need car insurance, building and contents house insurance, health, life or travel insurance, Dragon’s Insurance’s friendly staff are always ready to help and give you the best advice on insurance in Spain. With multilingual staff speaking English, Spanish and German, there is always somebody ready to help you with your individual needs. Their prices are absolutely unbeatable.

Call David Cook 678 702 369

T. 92 288 9292 F. 96 649 3850

Grupo Catalana Occidente -

Hyperien - INSURANCE


An expert in the insurance field, Dagmar Schittenhelm provides his services to many satisfied customers in German or English. Contact Dagmar if you’re looking for free, professional insurance advice with no obligation. Dagmar is a member of the prestigious Grupo Catalana Occidente.

T. 93 630 2190 / 93 630 1637 Afternoon T. 93 371 3868 M. 617 320 323

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T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832

Hyperien Insurance is an agency that specifically caters to European expatriates living in Spain. We are committed to providing a fast, efficient and friendly customer service and can provide for all your insurance needs including car, house, medical, pet and travel cover. We can produce a competitive quotation quickly over the telephone or via email. Contact us now to see how we compare with your current insurance provider and relax, we’ve got it covered. T. 95 289 5216

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Staysure - INSURANCE Staysure, experts in products and services for the over 50s, provide British nationals and Europeans living in Spain with a wide range of great value specialised insurance products. For a tailored, no-obligation quote for car, travel, health, home and holiday home insurance, contact Staysure — they understand your needs.

T. 95 201 0018 Ltd is an FSA authorised company. No 436804

Sánchez Molina -



- Foreign trade (Export/Import) - Transport Law - Commercial/Civil law: contracts, lease... - Insurance law and professional liability - Legal defence (Litigation and arbitration) - International merges - Wills - Administrative They speak English. Passeig de Gràcia 118, ppal, 08008 T. 93 125 8799

Gabinet Jurídic Tessal -



The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Founded in 1983, Gabinet Jurídic Tessal is made up of a small team of highly-qualified professionals. They can help with all types of law including property, construction, accident, damages, family and immigration. They are also experts in business law for accounting services, taxes and social security. They can discuss your legal matters in English and French. Ask for Esther Maya.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669

Perú 40-44, Escala 2, 2ºA Metro: Glòries (L1) T. 93 486 9451 F. 93 486 9452

Green Bean Coaching BUSINESS Coaching

Green Bean coaches entrepreneurs and business owners proven business techniques that have helped thousands of businesses boost their sales, increase profits, and hit their business goals. They will guide you to implement the strategies you need to move to the next business level. Call them for a no-obligation chat to learn more. Or visit their website to receive their Free Emini Series – Your Road Map To Business Success. T. 93 268 9544 M. 693 940 701

The Spectrum IFA Group - FINANCIAL ADVICE The Spectrum IFA Group creates and provides financial planning solutions for expatriates and foreign residents. Their experienced and qualified team in Barcelona can help you with all aspects of finance including: • Pensions/ Retirement Planning • Savings & Investments • Life Cover • Health Insurance • Currency Exchange • Mortgages • Tax Planning • Asset Management They are regulated financial planners with offices in seven European countries, dedicated to providing the best advice and solution for each individual client. Please email or call them to arrange an initial, no-obligation introductory meeting. T. 93 665 8596 Passeig de Gràcia 63, Principal 2A

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deVere Group -

FINANCIAL ADVICE The deVere Group is the world’s largest independent financial consultancy with a truly global presence. They provide expert, impartial financial advice in international savings, bonds, life insurance, pensions, as well as structured products, to expatriate clients and international investors around the globe. Their commitment is to help their clients create value and wealth by suggesting the right financial products that best suit their needs. Their advice is free and with no obligation. Passeig de Gràcia 56, planta 7 T. 93 487 5503

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Job directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: See also our online directory at

For the latest jobs for English speakers in Barcelona, follow us on Twitter @WorkInBarcelona

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Do you want to attend the Brazilian World Cup? With 55 global locations, THG/SMG is the world largest organizer of Executive Sports Entertainment at more than 350 major sporting events such as London 2012, Brazil WSC 2014, Champion’s league... Due to our future openings of our Latin American Offices and and unprecedented growth in both of our Barcelona and Madrid offices, we are interviewing for Bilingual Sales Executive that will be responsible for building a client base by contacting exclusively top level decisions makers, in addition to cultivating and maintaining long term relationships with them.?

How to write a Spanish CV

If you’re applying for a job in Barcelona, make sure You may already have 1-2 years experience in business-to-business sales or are youlooking know to be (and left on for what your firsthas corporate roleincluded following graduation. Eitherout) way we can assure you theCV. very best in training and development that will give you fast track a Spanish promotion and unlimited earnings within the first 12 months as well as overseas posting.

- Include an up-to-date photograph. You must possess

Our commitment to

- In Datos you Personales (Personal Information) include name, date of birth, DNI/passport number and your marital status. a burning desire to work within sales portunity to

the op-

- Your Formación (Education) can be quite simple. You should work for a fast pace, inspiring company include all educational institutions you have attended and any adA strong determination to succeed career ditional diplomas or degrees. Computer skills may also interesting be important, depending on the job, and are worthwhile including. opportunities within our 55 worldwide offices An ability to work both on your own and - Idiomas (Languages) are extremely important. All languages youContinual internal speak, and your levels of proficiency should be included in the CV. training and development

- Experiencia Profesional (Employment History) is evidently an within a team important part of your CV. When listing the various companies for Fluency in English while other language which you have worked, include dates, but also job title, tasks and Unlimited earning opportunities (OTEor40k-80K) specialisation. Any additional skills achievements relevant to the desired position should also be mentioned at the end of your CV. are a plus - When sending a CV in Castilian, be sure to have it thoroughly proofread by a native speaker, so as to avoid any embarrassing mistakes, either in language or grammar. A Spanish CV would initially impress, but any basic errors will take away from your application.

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Corporate Sports Sales Executive a marcus evans company

(Barcelona /Madrid/ Brazil)

Do you want to attend the Brazilian World Cup? With 55 global locations, THG/SMG is the world largest organizer of Executive Sports Entertainment at more than 350 major sporting events such as London 2012, Brazil WSC 2014, Champion’s league... Due to our future openings of our Latin American Offices and and unprecedented growth in both of our Barcelona and Madrid offices, we are interviewing for Bilingual Sales Executive that will be responsible for building a client base by contacting exclusively top level decisions makers, in addition to cultivating and maintaining long term relationships with them. You may already have 1-2 years experience in business-to-business sales or are looking for your first corporate role following graduation. Either way we can assure you the very best in training and development that will give you fast track promotion and unlimited earnings within the first 12 months as well as overseas posting.

You must possess:

Our commitment to you:

► A burning desire to work within sales. ► A strong determination to succeed. ► An ability to work both on your own and within a team. ► The drive to work beyond the traditional 9-5 in a challenging role. ► Fluency in English while other languages are a plus

► The opportunity to work for a fast pace, inspiring company ► Interesting career opportunities within our 55 worldwide offices ► Continual internal training and development. ► Unlimited earning opportunities (OTE 40k-80K)

Please send a covering letter and C.V in English to and mention ref/Metro

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Easy to resolve F

inally, some good news! Amid the doom and gloom, one thing, at least, is going to be easier this year: New Year’s Resolutions! In times of plenty, they’re a real chore—a wish list of self-denial that gets you as far as mid-January before you gently slide back into your slack ways. In times of economic woe, however, resolutions are certainly achievable, possibly advisable and maybe inevitable. Smoking and alcohol are the two typical resolution favourites, reappearing each year with the tedious predictability of troublemakers at the headmistress’s door. If you can still indulge in either on a regular basis, you’re doing better than the majority of the population, so making a point of cutting down voluntarily might be seen as insensitive, even provocative. For most people, unless you have widened your tastes to embrace Tetrapak wine and rolled-up poplar leaves, the general economic climate is going to make it easier to cut down on fags and booze. As any self-help guru will tell you, this will lead to positive reinforcement, increased self satisfaction and

long-term success. So well done you. The third horseman of the resolution apocalypse is inevitably exercise, which is why gym membership spikes in January and every yoga class in town is groaning with stiff neophytes. Gym membership might seem like an unaffordable luxury, though it works out cheaper in the long term than the alternatives: increased stress, ill health and a random selection of lingering diseases that will give you plenty of time to regret not hitting the exercise bike a couple of times a week while you still could. The great thing about resolving to renew your acquaintance with the gym is that you don’t necessarily need a gym! The various free, outdoor exercise areas dotted around the city offer most of the same exercise machines, but without the loud music, faint odour of perspiration and unwelcome atmosphere of passive-aggressive competition from humourless, lycra-clad gym monkeys. The downside of outdoor gyms, of course, is that they’re outdoors. It’s not the weather that’s your main problem, it’s the fact that

you will be providing entertainment for the masses. And with unemployment running so high, there are a lot of masses to be entertained. It will probably come as scant consolation, but you’ll be providing an important public service. For many of the disenfranchised, watching someone else doing pullups might be the closest they come not just to exercise but to social contact. Just don’t let them get too close, don’t encourage conversation and certainly don’t let them reach out and touch you. Not everyone wants to exercise in the public eye. If you don’t think you’re in good enough shape to unleash your Lycra-clad self on a vulnerable public, now is the time to take advantage of the shorter days to exercise at dusk, or even in the dark, though you might want to take a friend, just in case. Those inquisitive bystanders don’t always go home at nightfall, and as darkness thickens, they become increasingly feral. Until your new regime starts to bear fruit, you can’t always be sure you’ll outrun them. --Roger de Flower

HOROSCOPE Aries It’s a busy time with lots of running around and organising. Put off important decisions until things calm down. Relationships blossom and you have the chance to meet many new people.

Taurus There may be some

Gemini You’re not very focused on work and find it hard to get motivated. Take some time to reflect upon what you’re trying to achieve and where you’re going. A weekend away with close friends would be a real tonic.

Cancer Things are a bit hectic right now and you feel very scattered and disorganised. Try to express yourself clearly to avoid misunderstandings with loved ones and colleagues. Time for yourself should be a priority.

Leo This is a lazy month for you, you’ll be relaxing and doing very little. Be mindful with friends and colleagues as they may resent your lack of effort. Your energy returns at month’s end, so leave big projects till then.

Virgo Make use of your sharp

Libra You’re motivated and full of energy. Channel it into some projects that you’ve been trying to get off the ground for a while. You can project your thoughts clearly but you may need to win someone important’s approval.

Scorpio Clear thinking and self expression make this a good time for work opportunities and clearing up personal and professional issues. There is little opposition to your plans and opinions.

Sagittarius This is a great

Capricorn You start the year

Aquarius An excellent time to give and receive love. Meeting new people will be very beneficial. You are focused and have a good understanding of your goals, so it’s a great time for pressing on with your projects.

Pisces Love and romance are important to you and there are opportunities for both. Relationships started now should fare well. Your good fortune also extends itself to money.

time to be with friends and indulge yourself a little. Try not to overspend, though. You may find frustrating issues come up that you can’t solve. Get lots of exercise to help with the tension.

relationship dramas—try not to take things too personally as the issues will blow over quickly. You feel balanced and strong. Enjoy your influence over others and use it to keep the peace.

mind—it’s an excellent time for negotiating deals. You have a strong sense of purpose and can achieve a lot. Don’t be too demanding in close relationships, it’ll create tension.

in a bustle of activity which will later bring big rewards. There will be opportunities to make extra income. You express yourself without inhibitions, so can clear up misunderstandings.

scoop By Ben Rowdon

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Advertising FEATURE

MOVING TO BARCELONA? Should I buy or rent? If you are staying in Barcelona for just a short period, you should definitely rent your flat. The fixed costs of buying in Spain are 8%, plus any additional finance and transaction fees.

Should I live in the centre or by the beach? Barcelona is a wonderful city with many things to offer. We at Casamona love the beach, but your preferences may differ. One important factor is your daily commute. It is always a good idea to look at the metro lines to see how you can easily get to schools or work.

Is there much fraud in the rental market? Yes - always be very cautious when you rent a flat directly from the owner. You need to be 100% certain who the real owner is before you sign a contract or transfer money. A reputable real estate agency can help verify this and ensure a safe transaction.

What can I do to avoid getting cheated? The best thing is to use a trusted agency like Casamona. In addition to the many exceptional flats for rent, Casamona is fully licenced and insured through the Catalan real estate authorities. This licence and insurance is now obligatory, serving as your best guarantee of a professional and secure transaction - but many agencies do not have it. So be sure to request it when you choose your agency.

What if I would like to buy an apartment? Then come in to our office and meet our enthusiastic staff. We love Barcelona, and would be thrilled to show you the many investment opportunities currently available in this magnificent city!

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Profile for Barcelona Metropolitan

Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 180  

Barcelona Metropolitan is produced by Creative Media Group S.L. Creative Media Group was established to help English-speaking foreigners liv...

Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 180  

Barcelona Metropolitan is produced by Creative Media Group S.L. Creative Media Group was established to help English-speaking foreigners liv...