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July 2011 Nยบ 174 Free

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Contents

July

2011

18. PEOPLE’S OLYMPIAD 34. QUICK PICKS

Features 14 18 22

Short-lived street art Barcelona’s alternative Olympics Renegade priest

Regulars 06 07 08 11 13 26 29 36 58

On our web An inside look The month Columns Interview: Joan Calvet Mercè M5: Sweet shops On Food and drink Back page

DIRECTORIES 40 44 53

Food & Drink Business Jobs

11. WILD BARCELONA

From the Senior Editor: Following a couple of months of almost painfully democratic discussions and assemblies, street demonstrations and public camp-outs, the 15-M protestors may not have reached common agreement about what they are for and against, but they have certainly shown that not everyone willingly accepts the ‘system’, and our features this month highlight other instances of Barcelona defiance. Tyler C. Andrews speaks to two street artists here who knowingly create work that won’t last, while Richard Schweid interviews Pere Manel, a neighbourhood priest who risked excommunication after he helped two young women to have abortions. Nick Lloyd remembers the People’s Olympiad due to take place in Barcelona 75 years ago this month in protest at the Berlin Olympic Games, which, under the Nazi regime, were predicated on racism; however, as Nick explains, the Olympiad never took place as Franco’s military coup began just one day before the games’ inauguration. In this issue, we also have a treat for all of you who enjoy a sugar rush with a guide to places to buy your sweeties, while ON features essential summer happenings such as Dies de Dansa, Sala de Montjuïc and the Faraday festival. Hannah Pennell

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Esther Jones Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Editor Katy MacGregor Art Director Aisling Callinan Sales Director Rainer Hobrack Account Executives Richard Cardwell and Thomas McKeown Marketing & Communication Manager Jade Anglesea Sales Assistants Clare Bleasdale and Goran Dimitrovski Editorial Assistants Leah Dungo and Iseult Larkin Design Assistants Jamilya Dosmailova and Jacklyn Gehle Contributors Tyler C. Andrews, Jonathan Bennett, Lucy Brzoska, Vera Ciria, Roger de Flower, Meredith Gales, Nick Lloyd, Richard Schweid, Tara Stevens and Nicola Thornton Photographers Lucy Brzoska, Richard Owens, Jessica Quadra Andrews, J.W.T. and Lee Woolcock Cover photo Richard Owens Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial Office: Enric Granados 48, entlo. 2ª, 08008 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Sales: sales@barcelona-metropolitan.com. General enquiries: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Find your nearest distribution point on www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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For 14 years we have been providing financial advice to clients in Barcelona. • We now have pleasure in announcing the expansion of our office to a sixth adviser. • All our advisers are REGULATED, experienced and qualified and all live in the Barcelona area. • We are also pleased to announce that we have been appointed founding members of the Federation of European Independent Financial Advisers, a group dedicated to professional standards • We would like to thank all of you who have supported us over the years and we look forward to advising English speakers of all nationalities in the future.

Regulated in Spain. Offices also in France, Luxembourg and the Netherlands

www.spectrum-ifa.com

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The Spectrum IFA Group en España – Baskerville Advisers S.L. CIF B-63/137.020 – Correduría de Seguros; Nº de registro RDGS J2306 Paseo de Gracia 63, Principal 2a, 08008, Barcelona Seguro responsabilidad civil AIG Europe Nº 0131900503.1330 Registro Mercantil de Barcelona, Tomo 35489, Folio 170, Sección 8, Hoja B-269534

6/27/11 10:34:57 AM


06 INTERNET

on our web... Guide to

summmer festivals One of the best things about the arrival of summer is the bounty of music festivals that lie on the hazy horizon. To help you choose which ones to go to we’ve put together a guide of the main events across Spain. So get online and decide who you want to see and where you want to get your musical merriment this summer. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/summerfestivals

Interview: Valero Doval Valero Doval has a good sense of humour. That’s clear in his work that combines hand-drawn and collage images. He’s had his work published in periodicals as varied as Elephant and The New York Times and now his work is being shown in an exhibition at Rojo Artspace. We speak to the artist about his work and where he gets his inspiration. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/valerodoval

Blog of the week When we asked visitors to our web to tell us about their Barcelona blogs, we got a great response and discovered there are a lot of you bloggers out there scribbling about all aspects of city life. To help get you the recognition you deserve, from this month we’ll be featuring a Barcelona Blog of the Week on the website. So if you have a blog you would like featured, then send it in to us at info@barcelona-metropolitan.com

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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COVER 07

An inside look Photographer Richard Owens I am from North Carolina and at 18 instead of going to university I joined the military. After serving on a Special Forces ‘A’ team, I moved to Colorado and later to Alaska. I also worked at a research base in Antarctica for many years before meeting my wife and moving to Barcelona. I’ve been an artist my whole life but photography is my favourite medium. I love nature but since moving to Barcelona, I have really enjoyed photographing city life, and the countless fiestas and faces. My favourite time of the day: Early morning sunrise. I love getting up and seeing the sunrise over the sea. My favourite place in Barcelona: Rambla Catalunya (not La Rambla). It is a fantastic place to watch city life go by. You can see anything from temporary art exhibits to tourists and, of course, the cool, old shops. My favourite photographer: I know it could be considered a cliché but my favourite photographer is Ansel Adams. I don’t think there really is anyone who can match his mastery. My essential item is my camera. I try to take it everywhere. There is always something to photograph. The cover: I was walking around narrow streets around Plaça Sant Jaume. There is so much life going on, it’s amazing. Every square inch of space is used. The xurros shop caught my eye because it is one of my favourite treats here in Barcelona. My first New Year’s Eve here, my wife and I went for xurros after the celebrations. It has stuck with me since.

www.richardowens.ifp3.com

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08 THE MONTH

July

For location, you can’t really beat it; looking out over the Mediterranean and with views of the city, Wet is the newly-opened summer terrace at the über-cool W Hotel. Think DJs, expensive cocktails, deck shoes without socks and women in bling, gold jewellery. Bad name, excellent spot for those summer nights. July and August, 8pm-3am. www.w-barcelona.es

Fashion Are you fed up with experiencing those moments when you arrive at work, walk into a party or just decide to take a stroll around town and find that there are at least three other people wearing the exact same outfit that you so lovingly put together? Do not despair! July is fashion month in Barcelona. Forget about trying to snag tickets to 080 Barcelona or The Brandery, fashion hope swoops down upon mere mortals in the form of smaller showroom-style events open to the general public. Celebrating their 10th edition, Changing Room will be first in line to start the fashion proceedings. Dedicated to promoting independent design, both national and international, the event focuses primarily on up-and-coming trends. For one day only (Saturday July 2nd), the first floor of the Hotel Chic & Basic in Borne will be the place to be and be seen. With a total of 25 participating designers, each room holds a different collection. To commemorate this 10th edition, there will be a special 10x120

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In this feature, fashion writer Vera Ciria talks us through what’s on her Barcelona style radar. space: 120 garments, one by every single designer that has ever participated in Changing Room. This is a great opportunity to chat with the designers, network, shop for innovative garments and accessories or just chill out with a Moritz. Although often cramped, there is no shortage of beer and music, and the atmosphere is always blissfully festive. Almost midway through the month and coinciding with The Brandery, Fitting Room will be landing in Barcelona for the very first time. After launching in Madrid with great success a few years ago, the event has expanded to Bilbao and is now finally here in Barcelona. Blending art, fashion and design, 28 rooms will house 28 designers and artists at the B-Hotel on July 14th. Aside from Spain, the participating countries include Germany, France and the Czech Republic, among others. The focus of the event tends towards accessories, so don’t miss this opportunity to stock up on independent designs made with tender loving care. Support independent designers and stop handing over your money to huge conglomerates that don’t really care about ethics and sustainability. Stop feeling frustrated about everyone dressing like clones. Get yourself out there, check out the events and smell the fashion hope in the air.

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THE MONTH 09

If the shoe fits

One for our more monied readers. King of shoes Manolo Blahnik has become synonymous with shoe desire since those girls from Sex and the City brought him to the attention of us lesser mortals. Despite the recent rise of Christian Laboutin and Jimmy Choo in the shoe lover’s conscience, Spanish designer Manolo Blahnik still holds a rightful spot on the high-end designer shoe podium. With a new collaboration with Liberty in London and a new store here in Barcelona, he’s come a long way since making boots for his pet monkey on the Canary Isles. Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Passeig de Gràcia, 38-40. www.mandarinoriental.com

Let’s do lunch

It wasn’t so long ago when the best you could do for a sandwich in this city was a mouth-ripping, tough baguette with some dried-out ham, but now it seems you can’t move for new eateries offering the fillings you used to dream of. SandwiChez is the brainchild of Harvard MBA Xavier Sánchez Taulé, who wanted to provide us with places to enjoy fresh salads, hot and cold sandwiches, juices and the best coffees and teas. Amigó 63 and Augusta 117. www.sandwichez.es

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English - Spanish - Catalan - Dutch - German - Italian

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COLUMNS 11

Wild Barcelona Text and photos by Lucy Brzoska

Diary of an adoption By Meredith Gales

Last year, Meredith Gales successfully adopted a girl from a West African country, a process that she wrote about for our website. Here she explains what life has been like for her new family.

Back to school

O

Beautiful Demoiselle displaying wings

Jewels of

summer

Y

Hoplia coerulea

ou can see them from a distance, glowing like sapphires among the leaves. Their sky-blue iridescence makes the Hoplia coerulea chafers one of Europe’s most beautiful beetles. They do most of their shimmering on vegetation near streams, so to find them in Collserola, head to one of the few places where water flows above ground in summer: the Torrent de Can Codina. In the municipality of Cerdanyola, this tenacious stream eventually works its way to the Besos. I found a group of males there, positioned conspicuously on the plants, each with a leg or two raised in the air. Passing females, who are a sombre dark grey, with only a faint glimmer of blue, would fly past to inspect the baubles on display and make a selection. While the beetles wait to be picked out, the proximity of a neighbour can become unbearably irritating. Wrestling matches break out, as rivals grapple and try to lever each other off a leaf. Their hook-like extremities, designed for secure climbing on plants, are useful for slinging round legs and pulling. Another jewel of summer is the Beautiful Demoiselle (Calopteryx virgo), whose name goes straight to the point. You need to venture further than Collserola to observe them: the fast-flowing streams of Montseny are a perfect habitat. Under the thick July canopy, flashes of metallic turquoise electrify the dappled shade. Just like the chafers, a male will flaunt his colour to impress a female, who you might mistake for another species of damselfly altogether, given her more subdued copperygreen tones. The male will approach a potential mate and woo her like a peacock. Other damselflies have transparent wings, but those of the male Beautiful Demoiselle are richly pigmented a deep dark blue. The richer the better, instantly read as a sign of physical fitness by the female, as they are spread out before her.

Lucy Brzoska runs nature tours and writes for www.iberianature.com

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ne of the biggest issues in adoption is determining the age of your child. In some developing countries, birthdays aren’t the milestones that they are in the West. When a child has been brought to an orphanage after they have been abandoned (as my daughter was), the staff can only rely on hearsay and gut feelings to determine how old they are. This was the case with my little girl. Whilst I had been told by her carers that she was going on nine, her appearance—frail and slight—didn’t point to this. Her behaviour also caused confusion. Her independence and autonomy suggested a headstrong pre-adolescent whilst at other times she displayed the neediness of an infant. I learnt that this is quite common; institutionalised kids are forced to develop acute survival instincts and shoulder responsibilities, whilst the lack of proper nurturing can lead to bouts of baby-type regression. Her arrested physical development (she was still losing milk teeth when she arrived) may be caused by severe malnutrition when she was younger. There are forensic-type tests you can have done that can determine a child’s age with accuracy, but for me they weren’t a priority. Getting her into a school at the right level was. The Department of Ensenyament was sympathetic when I explained my situation, but told me, rather ludicrously, that she would have to start at P3, which corresponded to the age given on her passport, and that finding her a place could take some weeks. Although she had attended school in her own country, I knew (first-hand) the level of education she had received, and that she would get lost in the system here if put in with older kids. With only a few days to go before the new school year started, I did the rounds (with her in hand) in my local area. I found a concertada with one place left in P1 willing to take her despite the age glitch (I think the Head of Studies simply melted when he saw her). When he told me that the teacher spoke English (as my daughter does), I didn’t think twice. She was incredibly excited the first day. After being here for two weeks, she was dying to make friends and simply ‘belong’. The night before, she chose what she would wear (a neat pleated skirt, similar to the school uniforms girls wear in her own country) and packed and re-packed her new school bag. It was a gorgeous sunny morning when we entered the scrum of the school drop-off. Almost before I could kiss her goodbye, a monitor came up to us and took her hand, leaving me at the gate bawling through mixed emotions of worry, pride, relief and sheer joy.

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INTERVIEW 13 I got into winemaking by accident really. I started studying mathematics, but then I changed to engineering. Then one of my teachers at university suggested I go to a job interview in a local winemaking company and that was it. I’ve been in the job for 12 years and I love it. It’s one of those professions that once you are in, you never want to leave. My father was the last dairy farmer in Gràcia. He had a little shop in Calle Torrijos where he sold fresh milk, which came directly from the cows he kept at the back of the shop. I suppose that’s the reason I have always been a country boy. The job is about the love of what you do and the glamour. It’s very satisfying to produce a wine and know you have been involved from the grape to the bottle. Wine does have a snobby image, but I always maintain people who don’t like wine haven’t tried enough of them! I had a friend who always used to order beer whenever we went out for a dinner, while the rest of us had wine. He said he just didn’t like the taste. Then one year, he ordered wine. When I asked him what had changed, he said he’d started experimenting. That was it. The winemaking process is different for red and white wines. The main difference is the grape varieties used

and that the colour of red wine comes from the skin of the fruit. It’s all quite hi-tech now: nobody stomps around barefoot in presses any more. The Spanish tend to be loyal to Spanish wines. Preference is usually a generational thing—for example, my parent’s generation prefer fullerbodied wines while younger people usually like something lighter. England is a great wine consumer—the people there are very demanding. My own tastes have evolved. I’ve tried a lot of wines, and of course my day-to-day life trains me for my job. When tasting a wine, first it’s about the colour, then the smell and then the taste. I’m especially fond of reds. Wine should never dominate the flavour of the main dish. You serve white with fish and red with meat, but you can get white wines that are very rich and mature that fit perfectly with chicken and white meat. It’s all about developing a taste that you like. Red wine and cheese go together really well for chemical reasons. The mix of cheese proteins with the tannins from the red wine make the wine more delicate and tone down the bitter taste. To unwind, I love walking my dog, Xispa. I love animals and also think I would liked to have become a vet, even though I love my job. I also like cooking and preparing dinners for friends. My favourites are paellas and I’m a fan of barbecues because of the ambience. My perfect dinner party guests would be Peter Sellers, as he would make me laugh, Princess Leia, who was my icon as a teenager, and the lead singer of the group Russian Red. Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.

Joan Calvet Mercè Winemaker, Barcelona, 36

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14 STREET ART

Art against time Two Barcelona artists have found novel ways to create works on the city’s streets. By Tyler C. Andrews. Photos by Jessica Quadra Andrews.

I

n the narrow streets of the Barri Gòtic, the Born and the Raval, along the walls and doors, the street art tells a story of desperation and passion. The knotted layers of painted lines, the torn and fluttering poster edges, the images and colours chaotically arrayed: a withering canvas painted on by artists working against imminent erasure. In this volatile environment, graffiti removal teams, weather, building renovations and other artists competing for space assure that, by artifice or element, a piece of street art will be erased. It’s only a matter of time. How do street artists cope with the knowledge that their art is actually targeted for removal? For two Barcelona urban artists, it is the joy of the present and a few moments of lingering happiness for the viewer. Rodrigo Villas will admit his enduring love for graffiti art, but these days his voice lilts towards unspoken reservations. He knows that he could spend a week completing a wall-length mural only to see it painted over a week later. “It’s always at the front of my mind how at-risk my work is. It’s an ego thing, I think.” The possibility of erasure bothers him, but it’s not only that. “I see more and more repetition and mimicry in graffiti, and it’s difficult for me to find a personal connection with that type of work.” And so, he is looking in new directions. “I want to interact with the city in a different context. Instead of searching for space on a crowded wall, I’m seeking remote spots, void of colour, like around electric cables.” He calls his new project ‘Love Birds’. It consists of small, brightly-painted bird cut-outs hung on strings over electrical cables. “I’m putting little points of colour in empty spaces to show people that those places, otherwise invisible to us, actually exist.” His Love Birds swing happily from wires in the Born, the Gòtic and the Raval, embodying Villas’s joy towards life unencumbered. With a heavy bolt on the end of the thick string to counterbalance them, it’s difficult to see these pieces as anything more than temporary, happy to enjoy life for a moment before moving on. A strong breeze, a tall truck, a person with a ladder and a brazen

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disregard for possible electrocution: all these variables put Villas’s work at risk. And here is where the egoist—what little of one there is in him— surfaces. “It’s uncomfortable. On the one hand, I’m happy that someone would risk electrocution for a bird, but on the other hand, I do it in the street for a reason. They’re a gift for everybody.” He considers this a moment longer—for the Love Birds that his art imbues with life, and for his artistic presence that manifests itself through them. “This concern works both ways. I never created these birds to last forever. They have a cycle, and I like that.” Villas is Brazilian but lives in Barcelona and it is his experience here that engendered the project. “The bird is a constant immigrant, searching for a place to survive. I do the same; I move and adapt.” Ultimately, thinking of his art as temporary invigorates him. If it is temporary, then it is free. As is Rodrigo Villas. Extremadura native Francisco de Pájaro works on a piece of street art for 15 minutes, half an hour, maybe a little longer. Not much time by traditional standards, but his art is at odds with time anyway. His mantra “arte es basura” (art is trash) is a literal translation of both content and process. On a cloudy afternoon deep in the Raval (while looking for a decent pile of rubbish), he explained his strange obsession: “I paint in the street because I have no other place to do it. I had a studio, but the economic crisis quickly put that luxury out of reach.” Now he works predominantly with the piles of trash people heap up outside their doors, oftentimes using nothing more than a fine tipped brush, a couple of cans of acrylic paint and the rubbish at his feet. He fills in negative spaces, connects complimentary shapes, and suggests, often overtly and sometimes crudely, his vision of the urban landscape. Today, the pickings are slim. Settling on a pile of cardboard boxes, a drum head and an old dot matrix printer, he creates a piece of trash art like a bird constructing a nest—a face here, a box there, both connected by a strip of masking tape—the parts themselves standing for nothing but suggesting a tenuous whole. After applying the final stroke, he leaves his signature “arte es basura”, enjoys a fleeting glance at his creation and moves on.

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STREET ART 15

“I never created these birds to last forever. They have a cycle, and I like that.”

(above) Francisco de Pájaro’s Raval creation; (top) one of Rodrigo Villas’s Love Birds ‘flying’ on a Barcelona street

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16 STREET ART In the roiling urban art landscape of Barcelona, De Pájaro’s work is a reaction reduced to near absurdity. A Love Bird floats along for months, a wall mural may last a year or a week. His art emerges from rubbish, it speaks as rubbish, and as rubbish it lives to be hauled away. “My work is a metaphor for the value that should be placed on art. I believe that a person is worth more than any piece of art, and also that people should not be denied the opportunity to see art.” Today, some people take pictures while others laugh at the ghoulish face on the drum head. “I am part performer, part artist. My work is for the street, in every sense. It could never be placed in a gallery. It’s too ephemeral. It lives here and it will die here.” As his creation takes shape, people gather, whispering, speculating and, most importantly, smiling. When De Pájaro walks away from a piece, it will be the last time he ever sees it. For him, this is OK. “The streets belong to everyone, and I leave my art behind to come alive in this unpredictable, disposable setting. Yes, it will live only a short time, but I don’t lament this at all. It’s meant to give a little happiness to the passerby and to me as well.” He puts the finishing touches on the drum head as the rain begins to fall. The wet paint mixes with the rain water, drips from his brush down the side

When De Pájaro walks away from a piece, it will be the last time he ever sees it.

Francisco de Pájaro at work

of the drum head, and makes the ghoulish face appear even more so. De Pájaro ignores it. He runs to add a final detail to an arm on the left as the rain washes away the work he did on the printer. He fixes a piece of tape that has fallen and tries to add a few more details to a box, but now the cardboard is too damp to take the paint. The rain erases faster than De Pájaro can create, and this piece will die unfinished. He doesn’t get frazzled, nor does he think his efforts (or his ink) were wasted. He just stops, hoists his backpack over his shoulder and smiles at his work. “It’s becoming something else,” he says, and I can see his mind working, evaluating this exciting new phenomenon. After another minute, the cardboard boxes slowly, pitifully droop towards the ground and the painted faces appear to be crying, but De Pájaro has already walked away.

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SHOPFRONT GRAFFITI TARGETED In September 2008, Metropolitan published an article about the rising trend amongst shop-owners to hire graffiti artists to decorate the shutters of their premises. However, it was reported at the end of last year in La Vanguardia newspaper that the city council was planning to start fining businesses who featured such designs on their closed shopfronts. Fines of up to €600 were threatened as part of an attempt to end ‘anti-social behaviour’. While a municipal regulation had been in place since 1999 enabling authorities to fine businesses for altering their façades in certain ways, it is only in recent months that the council has decided to more seriously enforce it. Previously, graffiti artists might have been punished for creating such work, but now business-owners are also at risk, thus presumably bringing to an end this alternative form of street art.

6/23/11 12:21:09 PM


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18 PEOPLE’S OLYMPIAD

Game over

Exactly 75 years ago, Barcelona was due to host a People’s Olympiad in protest at the Nazi regime’s staging of the Olympic Games. But then history intervened. By Nick Lloyd.

T

his July 19th is the 75th anniversary of a remarkable event that never took place. On the same day in 1936, Lluís Companys, the then-President of Catalunya, was set to give a speech inaugurating the Olimpíada Popular (the Popular or People’s Olympiad), Barcelona’s answer to the Nazi Olympics in Berlin. Instead, Companys went on Barcelona Radio to denounce the attempted military coup of the day before—the Spanish Civil War had begun and the sporting fixture was called off. In 1931, there had been two candidates to host the 1936 Olympic Games: a pre-Nazi Berlin and Barcelona. The former won the nomination by 43 votes to 16 at a meeting held in Los Angeles on May 13th, and Barcelona would have to wait another 60 years before holding the Games. The choice of Berlin was seen as a way of welcoming Germany back to the world community after its defeat in World War One. Barcelona had also lost in part because the Spanish candidature had been backed by aristocrats (such as the city’s mayor at the time, Joan Antoni Güell i López) associated with the reign of Alfonso XIII, who was forced to abdicate in the same year, leading to the declaration of the second Spanish Republic. Barcelona would have been a volatile choice, admittedly, though the German capital was no haven of democratic stability, and in January 1933, Adolf Hitler was sworn in as chancellor. The world would never be the same again. As the Nazis set about excluding the half million German Jews from all aspects of the country’s life, they jumped on the chance of using the Olympics as a way of legitimising their regime and racist ideas. And although, after official protests from the Olympic movement, they promised to allow all Germans to take part in the Games, in the end evidently no Jewish athletes were selected, often being rejected on spurious grounds. As the nature of the regime became increasingly clear, a movement to

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boycott the sporting event grew in strength. Opposition in the US was particularly strong, with Jewish organisations at the forefront of protests. Interestingly, most African-American newspapers were in favour of taking part as they believed that black victories would undermine Nazi views of Aryan supremacy and promote pride in the African-American community, which is exactly what Jesse Owens later did in his small but historic way. However, overall, the Nazi Olympics were very much a propaganda coup for the regime. Back in Barcelona in 1935, as the boycott movement began to grow, Catalan sporting associations thought up the idea of picking up on the failed Olympic bid and re-forming it as a protest event against the Nazi Olympics. Named the Olimpíada Popular, these games were specifically conceived as an anti-racist and anti-fascist event that would promote the ‘true Olympic spirit’ as well as peace and understanding between nations, everything opposed by the Berlin Games with the International Olympic Committee’s complicity. The idea gained further impetus following the election in February 1936 of the Popular Front government in Spain, which announced it would boycott the Berlin Olympics and offered Barcelona the 400,000 pesetas (about €550,000 in today’s money) it had promised the Spanish Olympic team. In the end, the only Spanish athletes to travel to Germany was a military team of fencers, who were forced to return home at the outbreak of the Civil War, presumably not to fight for the Republic. The Barcelona event soon received the full backing of the Generalitat, which offered another 100,000 pesetas and the use of the Montjuïc stadium, which had recently been completed for 1929 Universal Exhibition. The Games also received the generous support of 600,000 pesetas from the left-wing French government, though it demonstrated the ambiguity that would help cripple the Republic during the Civil War, by also sending a team to Germany.

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6/23/11 12:26:57 PM


Poster for the People’s Olympiad by Fritz Lewy. Source: Biblioteca del Pavelló de la República-CRAI (Universitat de Barcelona)

PEOPLE’S OLYMPIAD 19

These games were conceived as an anti-racist and anti-facist event that would promote the ‘true Olympic spirit’.

Inauguration of the Montjuïc stadium for the 1929 Universal Exhibition, in the presence of Alfonso XIII. Photographer: Perez de Rozas. Source: Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona

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20 PEOPLE’S OLYMPIAD

>>

Although the Games were only officially announced in March 1936, a total of 6,000 athletes from 22 nations registered. The biggest contingent came from France, which sent 1,500 athletes. As the French participants made their way towards the Spanish border, large groups of workers gathered around many stations singing ‘The Internationale’. The US, UK, Netherlands, Belgium, Czechoslovakia, Denmark, Norway, Sweden and French Algeria also sent sizeable teams. In addition, there were German and Italian teams made up of exiles, the former including many Jewish athletes. In most cases, the athletes were sent by trade unions, workers’ clubs and associations, socialist and communist parties and left-wing groups rather than by countries. In part because it was a Catalan-inspired event, there were also teams from Alsace, and regional-national teams from Spain (Andalucia, Euskadi, Galícia, Catalunya, etc.), the idea being to break the nation-state model of the official Olympics. In addition, some 20,000 visitors made their way to the city, creating considerable problems with accommodation, as their numbers far exceeded the hotel places available at the time. They included thousands of tourists from France who had come to enjoy the first two week’s paid holidays of their lives, thanks to new legalisation by the French government. This was the timid beginnings of mass international tourism. The games were scheduled to be held from July 19th to 26th and would have ended six days before the start of the Berlin Olympics. In addition to the usual sporting events, they were to feature chess, folk dancing, music and theatre. President Lluís Companys in the early Thirties. Source: Arxiu Fotogràfic de Barcelona Most of the athletes were already in the city by the eve of July 19th. On the 18th, as news reached the city of the military coup in the Canaries and North Africa, there was a test run of the opening ceremony and that night many Games, the stadium, located a couple of hundred metres from where he was executed, was renamed the Estadi Olímpic Lluís Companys. of the athletes slept in the stadium itself. Thousands of young people of a dozen or more nationalities fraternally intermingled, communicating Nick Lloyd leads Civil War tours in Barcelona with the Centre d’Estudis de Montjuïc however they could, as few spoke Castilian. For many it was the first time and runs the website www.iberianature.com they had spoken to people from other countries. The atmosphere of enthusiasm and euphoria intermingled with increasing trepidation about a possible military coup. The next morning, at 4.30am, as the athletes slept in the stadium, the soldiers in the barracks around Barcelona were awoken by their officers, given a rum ration and told they were to put FROM ATHLETES TO FIGHTERS down a supposed Anarchist rebellion in the city. The military uprising had Little is known about many of the athletes who stayed in Spain to fight. begun and the Olympiad had to be cancelled. Some athletes never made One German swimmer who took part in defeating the military in the it to Barcelona as the borders had been closed, while those already in the city would later become the swimming instructor for the Popular Army city for the beginning of the games had to make a hasty exit. However, at who trained the first units to cross the Ebro River in the battle that least 200 of the athletes remained and joined workers’ militias to fight the would finally break the back of the Republic. Another swimmer, Clara insurgents, becoming some of the first foreign volunteers, months before Thalmann, a Swiss anarchist, hitchhiked her way to Spain to take part in the Olympiad, only be stopped at the border by the outbreak of the first International Brigades were formed (see sidebar). Lluís Companys, who was to open the Games, and who was President the war. She soon slipped across and joined the Durruti column. The of Catalunya throughout the war, went into exile in France in February following year, as anarchists and Stalinists fought for control of Barce1939, when Catalunya fell to Franco’s army. In 1940, he was arrested by lona in the fateful May Days of 1937, famously described in Homage to the Gestapo and deported back to Spain, where he was tortured, before Catalonia, Thalmann met Orwell himself on a barricade in La Rambla, being court-martialled and shot in the empty moat of Montjuïc castle. In saying of him, perhaps unfairly, “He did not know what was going on 2001, nine years after the city finally and successfully held the Olympic and his eyes expressed amazement, he had a terrified look.”

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22 PARE MANEL

The people’s priest For I was hungry and you gave me meat; I was thirsty and you gave me drink; I was a stranger and you took me in; Naked and you clothed me; I was sick, and you visited me; I was in prison and you came unto me.” Matthew 25: 35-36

E

Photos by J.W.T.

xactly as in politics and the city at large, the Catholic Church contains a broad spectrum of thought, ranging from conservative to progressive. During Francisco Franco’s rule, the Church was one of the principal pillars of the dictatorship with far-reaching influence on the running of the country, and the conservative wing was in full ecclesiastical control. But even before Franco died, a progressive wing of the Church was emerging. In March 1966, more than a hundred priests and monks marched to police headquarters on Via Laietana, protesting the mistreatment of an arrested university student;

as a result of their demonstration, they were charged by the police and beaten. When Franco died, the Church’s grip on power was lost, as was the absolute internal control of the Church by its conservative wing. In the early post-Franco years, many young Spaniards joined ‘base groups’ of believers who lived together in communal arrangements, and tried to serve others. Among the priesthood were curas obreros (worker priests), ordained men who declined to base their lives in a church, but instead went out and held normal jobs, while also following their vocation. Other priests chose to go to the poorest, more marginalised neighbourhoods. They were ‘curas de la calle’ (literally street priests) who saw their work as being on the streets rather than waiting in church for people to seek them out. One of Barcelona’s most famous curas de la calle is Manel Pousa, better known as Pare Manel. He is a motorcycleriding parish priest in Trinitat Vella, and has frequently appeared in the

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PARE MANEL 23

Pare Manel is not your typical Catholic priest: he rides a motorcycle, mixes with the Catalan cultural elite and, most controversially, has helped teenage girls obtain abortions. By Richard Schweid. Catalan media. Every June, some of Catalunya’s best-known entertainers, such as the comedy trio Tricicle and musician Joan Manuel Serrat, stage a benefit evening for the Fundació Pare Manel, which works with poor children and prisoners from the Nou Barris neighbourhood, trying to increase their opportunities for successful lives. In March this year, however, Pare Manel’s name was in all the media for a very different reason. Cardinal Lluís Martínez Sistach, archbishop of Barcelona, announced on March 16th that he had opened an investigation into the fact that Pare Manel had paid for two abortions, saying that the process could lead to the priest’s excommunication. In fact, canonical law calls for automatic excommunication for anyone who collaborates in an abortion. While the incident happened five years ago, it was revisited this year with the publication of a biography of the priest, Pare Manel. Més a prop de la terra que del cel (Pare Manel. Closer to Earth than to Heaven). “We paid for two girls to have abortions who were ready to have amateur abortions at someone’s home,” Pare Manel readily admitted to Metropolitan. The two girls, 13 and 15 years old, were regulars at the day centre run by the Fundació Pare Manel for children and youth in the Roquetes neighbourhood, and Pare Manel had known them for years. However, Pare Manel holds no rancour against the archbishop. “You have to understand why this was done. It was because of the fundamentalist sectors in the Catholic Church, and because, whenever they can, they attack our archbishop. They denounced me to the Vatican and asked how a priest in the archbishop’s diocese could do this. To defend himself, he [the archbishop] began the process of investigating if what I had done deserved excommunication.” A month later, the archbishop announced that it did not. “It was decided not to excommunicate me. What we did was to avoid a greater harm, by stopping these girls going to a person and having an abortion in that person’s house. Their pregnancies were secrets from the little family they had. There’s a time limit when you can get a legal abortion and we didn’t have much time. They didn’t have any money so we paid for them to go to a clinic. “They’re girls we’ve known for a long time at the Fundació, and we still have an educator working with them. We do a lot of work with adolescents.”

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In addition to its work with young people, the Fundació concentrates much of its efforts on prisoners. First, it works with youngsters to try and keep them out of crime, and if that doesn’t work, they try to prepare them in prison for changing their lives when they are released. Pare Manel does his priestly liturgical and sacramental work­—such as holding mass, hearing confession and conducting funerals—but he is particularly dedicated, he said, to his social action work.

“We paid for two girls to have abortions who were ready to have amateur abortions at someone’s house.” “I try to connect with the people in this neighbourhood, where there are certain marginal aspects. People in a world where they are not only poor, but where they commit crimes to survive. Robberies, drug trafficking, selling stolen goods, all kinds of crime. In this world, we try to first invest time in children and youngsters to avoid them winding up in jail. This

>

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24 PARE MANEL

“There is a lot of fear in the Catholic church about opening up to other faiths, and many in the Church feel their God is the only God.” >>

is prevention. For youngsters growing up in marginal neighbourhoods in high-risk situations due to the economic crisis...it’s relatively easy to fall into crime in order to live in our consumer society, or to feed a drug habit. We try to be there for these kids and youngsters. “The other part of our work is inside prison. We try to collaborate with jails and prisons so that a stay in prison is not only punishment but also has an educational part. Since Franco’s time there has been a large improvement in the conditions of incarceration here. The thing that worries us now is what happens when someone is released. Many people have lost their families or don’t have one, and leave prison without anything or anyone. This is where I think we have to dedicate more effort.” Working with people in and out of prison has only served to deepen Pare Manel’s conviction that all people and all faiths are equally deserving of respect. “There is a lot of fear in the Catholic church about opening up to other faiths, and many in the Church feel their God is the only God. But the whole world doesn’t have to be Christian: all religions and all spiritual beliefs can bring someone to this transcendence, whether we call it God or not. “Christians will be very much a minority in Barcelona in the future. I believe that we have to participate in the life of the neighbourhood, working to improve life as the neighbourhood associations, NGOs and sports clubs do. The Christian community doesn’t have a unique mission in the community. Its religious life is one part of our life, but for us faith is a road to liberty and maturity. Having faith cannot be allowed to isolate you from the responsibility of being a good citizen.”

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MORE INFO: EXCOMMUNICATION This is a punishment utilised by religions to exclude members from the community for a variety of offences. Although it is most commonly associated with Catholicism, the concept does exist in Judaism (herem or cherem) and Buddhist monks can be subject to similar penalties, while some other branches of Christianity have the facility to excommunicate members. In Catholicism, excommunication (which comes from the Latin ex meaning out and communis, meaning common to all) is a ‘medicinal penalty’, which means that anyone subjected to it is encouraged to repent, correct the error committed and return to the fold. When someone has been excommunicated in the Catholic church, they can’t receive the Eucharist and other sacraments (such as the last rites). They do, however, remain a Catholic; so, they are still obliged to attend mass but can’t take an active part in it, for example by doing readings. There are two types of excommunication in Catholicism: automatic or latae sententiae (which Pere Manel was threatened with), which is determined by canon law and is applied as soon as the offence is committed; and ferendae sententiae, which is passed down by a senior member of the church or an ecclesiastical court. Well-known people who have been subject to ferendae sententiae in the past include Fidel Castro, Juan Perón and Napoleon Bonaparte. In terms of abortion, any Catholic who “obstinately denies that abortion is always gravely immoral”, thereby commits the sin of heresy (obstinate denial of any truth of the Catholic faith) and incurs an automatic sentence of excommunication. Canon law also dictates that anyone who procures an abortion (an act that is deemed a mortal sin) incurs a latae sententiae excommunication.

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26 M FIVE

five

Sweets and chocolates for all tastes and budgets. By Iseult Larkin.

Laniel Alimentacío

This little gem has been nestled in the bustling Mercat de Santa Caterina for the last 33 years. The bollería stand sells pretty much everything that could be considered a treat, from hard sweets and jellies to dried fruits, biscuits and jams. Despite the dizzying selection of sweets, it’s the pastries that seem to recieve the most attention. Perhaps not so astonishing when you can get a large bag of fresh magdalenas for just €1.25. Mercat de Santa Caterina Metro: Jaume I (L4)

Photo by Jacklyn Gehle

Fargas

Officially opened in 1827, Fargas is one of the oldest and most famous of Barcelona’s chocolate shops or bomboneries. With its stained wood interior, gilded mirrors and chandeliers, this small family establishment gives off an air of old-world decadence that will reassure even the pickiest of connoisseurs. It is also suitably expensive, with beautifully crafted chocolates coming in at €63 per kilo. However, the classic liqueur truffles, made to a special recipe of the original Senyor Fargas himself and, not surprisingly, the shop’s best sellers, are well worth sampling if not gorging on.

Photo by Jacklyn Gehle

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Carrer del Pi 16 Metro: Liceu (L3)

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M FIVE 27

Happy Pills

Bringing the familiar neighbourhood chuches (pick ‘n’ mix) shop into the 21st-century, this Barcelona enterprise has taken the city by storm, and they’ll soon be spreading their version of happiness to Zaragoza and Bilbao. Based on the sensible premise that bright, multi-coloured sweets are as good a medicine as any for life’s woes, the four branches of Happy Pills are regularly crammed with ‘patients’ of all ages stuffing their jars with as many jelly sharks and love hearts as they can. Not the usual kind of buzz that special pills can bring, but not a bad substitute. www.happypills.es

Bawaca

The people behind this sweet shop have a simple wish: to offer handmade sweets made in the traditional way, without machines, in front of the customer. And as this means you can choose exactly what flavour, colour and personal message you want your sweets to have, we can’t see many people arguing with that. Pick between old-school jars, 100-gram bags, lollies or, if you’re looking for a special and unusual gift, then you can get all the sweets you want in a lovely gift box for a lucky friend. Ronda Universitat 7. Metro: Universitat (L1 & L2) www.bawaca.com

Street markets

The fine weather of Catalunya lends itself well to open-air markets and in amongst the bottles of local wine and stalls heaving with cheeses, meats and olives, you’ll often find another one groaning with fudge, jelly sweets and liquorice pieces. They aren’t necessarily cheap, but for something to chew on while you’re perusing the rest of the stands, you can’t really go wrong. The sweet stall pictured here is a regular feature in Plaça Comas in the neighbourhood of Les Corts, where a market of art, handicrafts and food takes place on the first Saturday of each month.

Next month: where to get your beach kit

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On DIES DE DANSA P. 30

CRUÏLLA P. 31 SALA DE MONTJUÏC P. 33 JOAN COLOM P. 34

Javier Carles—El lenguaje de las flores. P. 35

29 Cover copy 1.indd 1

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3

30 ON

the edit 5th

We trawl through the month’s cultural events and pick our favourites

Their music has been variously described as lo-fi, fuzz pop and drone pop but one thing’s certain, it’s loud and more than a little frantic. Crocodiles released their debut album Summer of Hate in 2009—a riot of feedback and krautrockinspired noise, it caused some shouting about its more derivative elements. But with this, their second trip to Barcelona, lead singer Brandon Welchez is sure to bring all his cock-sure, who-cares attitude to the stage once more.

Crocodiles BeCool

18th

1

st

27th

Dies de Dansa is 20 years’ young and to celebrate they’ve invited back the festival’s most popular acts for a restrospective. Thirty-five performances by 30 companies from 15 different countries across six days will no doubt make it a birthday to remember. The dance shows take place around the city and beyond, with the celebrations also spreading to Sitges and Sabadell.

Jamie Lidell has called on a few friends to help out with his latest album Compass. Feist drops in, Grizzly Bear’s Chris Taylor is there and Beck cowrote and co-produced a few tracks. The result is a step away from the soul-infused, beatboxing Jim, and in its place is a pared-down, bleepy and, in some places, incoherent third album.

Dies de Dansa

Jamie Lidell

Various venues. www.marato.com

Apolo

ON Contributors: Tyler Andrews, Iseult Larkin, Will Shank and Natasha Young

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ON 31

the gigs th 817 th

Booker T

Two Gallants

Keith Jarrett

Apolo, 1st

Apolo[2], 10th

Teatre Grec, 23rd

The Pretty Reckless

ZZ Top

Bon Jovi

Razzmatazz, 6th

Poble Espanyol, 13th

Estadi Olímpic Lluís Companys, 27th

Les Savy Fav

Moby

Jamiroquai

Apolo, 8th

Poble Espanyol, 19th

Poble Espanyol, 31st

Cruïlla Festival

Parc del Fòrum

It would be cruel of the sun not to shine on the Fòrum for Cruïlla. Music festivals are always more fun when it’s not belting down with rain but Cruïlla’s 2011 line-up— a hotchpotch of hip-hop, reggae, folk and everything in-between—just plain demands good weather. Lee ‘Scratch’ Perry in drizzle just wouldn’t be right. Now in its seventh year, Cruïlla is a world away from the shoe-gazing and beard-rubbing of Primavera Sound or the chemically-enhanced gurning of Sónar. A two-day bonanza of music from across the globe and around the corner, this eclectic festival is strictly for happy folk high on nothing more than life. Get there early on Friday 8th to see the madcap English beatboxer/comedian, Beardyman. His beard might not be much to write home about but his beatbox mashup of a drum and bass rave and a London Tube commute is something else. What’s more, this boy can sing. Expect live, human beat-looping on stage, tunes from his new album and lots of improvised shenanigans. Among those keeping Beardyman company on the Friday are the New Zealand dub and R’n’B outfit Fat Freddy’s Drop, reggae legends Lee ‘Scratch’ Perry and Max Romero, folk hero Iron and Wire and Mallorca’s Antònia Font while harmles surfing songster Jack Johnson (pictured) tops the bill. On Saturday 9th, expect a riot when Public Enemy take the stage—if ever there was an anthem for Barcelona’s indignados, ‘Fight the Power’ has to be it. Joining them on the bill are Madness, Belgian art rockers dEUS, the Retribution Gospel Choir and the slightly-scary-butsilly skeletal rockabillies, Los Tiki Phantoms.--NY Two-day advance tickets cost e65 plus booking fee. For more info, head to www.cruillabarcelona.com. July 8th and 9th, Parc del Fòrum

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32 ON

14th

Carmen

Teatre Liceu

A tragic love triangle between a beautiful and

21st

free-spirited Roma woman, a possessive soldier and a dashing bullfighter is what most people know of Georges Bizet’s opera Carmen. Even those not familiar with the famous tale of love and jealousy will probably recognise the passionate guitars of the musical masterpieces that accompany it, such as the Habanera and the Toreador. If you’re still drawing a blank, then educate yourself at the Gran Teatre del Liceu by catching Calixto Bieito’s new interpretation of the classic opera. Better still, arrive early and attend one of the informative sessions that will be held in the foyer 45 minutes before each show. Can’t face confining yourself inside on a summer’s evening for all four acts? Then get yourself to Plaça del Mar at the platja de Sant Sebastian in Barceloneta, where the performance will be shown on a large screen as part of the theatre’s policy to try and reach larger audiences.--IL www.liceubarcelona.cat www.liceubarcelona.cat

For more live events, visit our website: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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ON 33

Wynton Marsalis

4th

Teatre Grec

Wynton Marsalis is, by all accounts, a genius. A man gifted with such talent that he is frequently cited in discussions about ‘the defining moments in music’. Like all greats, he started early, learning the trumpet under the watchful eye of his pianist father. He trained in classical trumpet and was good enough to go to the renowned Juilliard School but another genre had captured his heart. He began playing in Art Blakey’s Jazz Messengers, a starting block for many big names including Thelonious Monk, Keith Jarrett and Donald Bird; the roll-call of previous Messengers reads like a who’s who of jazz and blues. It is Art Blakey who is credited with giving Marsalis his hardbop style but it is Marsalis’s own take on neotraditionalist jazz that’s earned him both criticism and praise. Marsalis left behind the free jazz movement, preferring an earlier jazz tradition, and it is his supposed neoconservative approach, along with his pontificating hard-line take on the genre, that has led some of his peers to speak out against him. Despite this, it is difficult to find anyone who denies that the New Orleans trumpeter can play. Marsalis continues to be a leading advocate of jazz and is the Artistic Director of Jazz at the Lincoln Center where, like Art Blakey before him, he works hard to promote what he sees as the timeless values of music. Since switching from Columbia Records to Blue Note, his aim to promote those values continues apace, from noted performances with Eric Clapton at the Rose Hall to collaborations with Willie Nelson and Norah Jones. So whether you agree with his take on jazz or not, seeing him play as part of the Grec will mean watching a musical legend and that should surely be enough. www grec.bcn.cat/es

Sala Montjuïc

Castillo de Montjuïc

Picture sitting on a comfortable lounger in the gardens of a castle with a band playing softly in the background, a bar behind you providing beverages and light snacks and the anticipation of waiting for your all-time favourite film to begin, all in the balmy summer air and against the backdrop of the most beautiful view of Barcelona. No need to just imagine it, though: summer is here again and so is Sala Montjuïc. Every Monday, Wednesday and Friday from July 4th to August 5th, a selection of classic and contemporary films will be projected onto the wall of Montjuïc Castle, shown in their original languages and subtitled in Castilian. The grounds will open from 8.30pm each evening with performances at 9pm by a variety of bands playing everything from jazz and soul to pop and R’n’B. A short documentary in Castilian will then precede the main picture which begins at 10.15pm. Shuttle buses will be available from 8.30pm at Plaça Espanya and will be there to ferry sleepy cinemagoers back once the film is finished.--IL July 4th to August 5th. Tickets €5 plus €3 to rent a deckchair.

Faraday Festival Vilanova i la Geltrú

Ah, Vilanova i la Geltrú, with this music festival you are really spoiling us. If getting to hang out by the beach in the shadow of a lighthouse wasn’t enough, Faraday offers a full weekend of music for a bargain price (€60 for three days). With possibly the best location of any music festival in Europe, Faraday would be fun even without the bands. On the Friday, The High Llamas and The Bluetones are joined by a formidable line-up of locals including Valencia’s lo-fi lovelies, Polock. Canada’s folk prince Ron Sexsmith and Barcelona’s own Standstill head the bill on the Saturday. Once the bands are done, DJs crank up the volume and you can shuffle your feet under the stars until the small hours. This year, it’s well worth hanging around on the Sunday to catch John Grant. A late addition to the line-up, The Czars’ ex-frontman, produced one of THE albums of 2010, albeit with a little help from his friends Midlake. Head home with his bruised baritone and startlingly sad love songs ringing in your ears.--NY July 1st to 3rd. www.faraday.tv

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www.salamontjuic.org

1st

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34 ON

Concurso de natación organizado por el Club Natación Barcelona y el Brussels Swimming and Water Polo Club, Puerto de Barcelona, 1913. © Fons Brangulí (fotógrafos)/ ANC

Joan Colom. Álbum del Raval

Brangulí. Barcelona 1909-1945.

Fundació Foto Colectania. Until October 29th

CCCB. Until October 23rd

Camera held at his waist, a feigned nonchalance to his gait, no eye

A good photojournalist is part artist, part reporter and part magician. He

contact under any circumstances: this is how Joan Colom navigated the

needs to be both compassionate and impartial at the same time, to both

prostitutes and hustlers in the backstreets of the Raval in the Fifties and

accurately record and to empathise with the circumstances of the subjects at

Sixties. But unlike the people who wanted nothing to do with this area,

which he aims his camera.

Colom was desperately involved in an affair with Barcelona’s seediest

An extraordinary show of 300 photographs proves Josep Brangulí to be

barrio. For nearly a decade, he walked the Raval photographing the daily

all of these things. It also affords the viewer the opportunity to view Barce-

activities of its working class. He captured tender embraces, clandestine

lona during the most dynamic period of its history: the first half of the 20th

eyes, overt sexual invitations, discreet gestures, the curve of a breast or

century, when it was both running away from its pre-industrial past and trying

bum, a stocking hiked back up, a young boy’s furtive glance, the strength

to avoid the inevitability of its Fascist future.

radiating from a person choosing to wait for hours in a rehearsed pose in a shaded doorway. The achievement is not that Colom captured all of this in photographs that defy the labels of voyeurism or fetishism, instead appearing as faithful

Culled from the half million images that have been part of the National Archive of Catalunya since their acquisition from the photographer’s heirs in 1992, Brangulí’s images tell the story of a city in the throes of metamorphosis.

visual transcriptions of a neighbourhood existing comfortably in its own

There are views of long-lost ghosts of the past, some lamented (the tram

skin, but that he did so for a decade while maintaining almost complete

system in the Twenties), and some less so (shanty towns lining the beach at

anonymity.

Somorrostro). Some views are unrecognisable (the construction of Avinguda

The 76 photographs that make up this album were given to Colom’s publisher, Josep Maria Casademont with Colom saying that these were his favourites. Casademont, an artistic activist, championed the social

Diagonal through an unpopulated wasteland) and some remarkably the same, such as Brangulí’s views down the narrow streets of the Gothic quarter. He was there for the historic moments too: the creation of the Second

relevance of the photographs and as a result they became an extremely

Republic, Nazi flags draped over the Estació de França and the 1929 opening

important photo essay of the social fabric of that time. Colom himself felt

of Mies van der Rohe’s ultra-modern Pabellón.

a strong affinity to the places he photographed but would only go so far as

The photos that give the exhibition its soul, however, are the images of the

to say, “I searched for images that moved me. I only wanted to be a notary

people of Barcelona: Christmas Day swimmers at the port, a gaggle of joyful

of the time.” His Raval album remains to this day a study of photographic

dressmakers in the rumble seat of a jalopy. And the city’s downside: a school

intuition and a manifestation of the spirit of a different time and place.

for the blind, plump babies with sunglasses being radiated in the ‘pink wing’

For the next 20 or more years, Colom’s production dwindled as Franco’s

of a solarium for the children of unwed mothers, or the views of shockingly

regime tagged his photography ‘lewd’, all but blackballing its circulation

young workers in factories that make ice, gypsum, ribbon.

and production. However, in 2002 Colom was awarded the Spanish Na-

My favourites are Brangulí’s purely beautiful images of historic Barcelona:

tional Prize for Photography for his contribution to the culture of Spanish

an all-white ‘milk bar’ or the chiaroscuro night time view of the Bar Canaletas,

photography and his importance as a chronicler of a Barcelona that exists

its staff theatrically posed, staring through its open doors like players in an

now only in images.--Tyler Andrews

opera.--Will Shank

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ON 35

quick picks

Thursday, Friday & Saturday From 23h to 03h Free entrance

Javier Carles. El lenguaje de las �lores. Galeria H2O Until July 30th. h2o.es

Borne area, Av. Marqués de l’Argentera, 27 Metro: Barceloneta, Jaume I Estació de França

Passeig de Picasso

Dancefloor Jazz, Funk, Soul, Hip Hop & Latin Kicks Parc de la Ciutadella

Av. Marqués de l’Argentera Estació de França

3 Up Close/Wide Angle. ADN Galería. Until July 30th. adngaleria.com Pere Noguera, Marbre de taula, 2004

Pere Noguera. Fundació Antoni Tàpies. Until September 25th. fundaciotapies.org

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36 GASTRONOMY

Ciao bella T

he renovation of the car park behind the Boqueria hasn’t been terribly kind to the businesses around there. Bar Ra had to relocate to Cañete—a top-notch, Catalan-oriented tapas bar on Carrer Unió—at the end of last summer, and one can only imagine that the noise and dust has put many a roving tourist off sitting down to eat anywhere in the immediate vicinity. The good news is, once the car park is underground, we citizens of Barcelona will have a much bigger plaça to play in. Meantime, one man’s challenge is another’s opportunity as they say, and Bacaro—which means wine bar in Venetian—opened earlier this year on little Carrer Jerusalem as a welcome antidote to the seemingly never-ending sea of burger joints landing on these shores. Don’t get me wrong: I like a burger as much as the next girl, but finally, somewhere for dinner! To give a bit of background, owners Alfredo, Mauri and Pablo were part of the troop of Venetians who opened Xemei in Poble Sec and Santa Marta on the beach. They’ve broken off—amicably—and gone their own way, serving simpler dishes than those at Xemei, more upmarket wines than those at Santa Marta. The space itself is small, casually thrown-together, a bit chaotic with part-owner Mauri zooming around yelling, “come in, my love” to anyone who happens to walk by. A pal of the trio visiting from Venice hands out slices of beautiful, fennel-infused salami for customers to try. Alfredo pours me a goldfish-bowl-sized glass of Strada de Guia 109 Valdobbiandene, Foss Marai, Extra Prosecco (note the wine glass, not a flute) that they are trying out, so fresh and lively it actually makes me feel 10 years younger and transports me right back to the Rialto market in Venice where I’d stop in for cichèti—the Venetian equivalent of tapas—and a glass of wine after shopping. This isn’t really a cichèti bar, but they have captured the heart and soul of the bacari. The mood is boisterous and convivial as complete strangers share nibbles and notes on topics of the day (in this case FC Barcelona’s spate of victories), and yell across the room at each other: “Where are you from? Oh, yeah. I got a cousin

there. You tried the salami?” Half the clientele are resident Italians, the rest a mix of Catalans and expats, but what’s so gloriously refreshing about the place is it feels like everyman’s home: the kind of place you could show up to on your own and run into a bunch of friends or soon make them. But even if you didn’t, you’d be very happy sitting at the bar chatting with whoever happened to be there. In the end we are seated upstairs in the mezzanine pondering a snappy menu that combines staunchly Venetian dishes like sarde en saor (sweet and sour Venetian sardines) with burrata (that delightfully gooey mix of buffalo mozzarella and fresh cream), bresaola (paper-thin slivers of air cured beef) and bright insalata caprese. There are a couple of innovations too, like beetroot gnocchi with prawns, and Mauri tries to sell us a monster sea bass that they’ll lightly grill and do nothing much to, but we’re seduced by the promise of retro crowd pleasers lasagna and aubergine Parmesan. Both superb. And so the wine and conversation flow freely over princely portions that are both soulful and sturdy, much as you imagine they’d be at the hands of an Italian nonna, and all the while Mauri flutters about urging us: “eat, eat”. As the two of us on aubergine parmesan are gradually beaten down by the sheer size of it (note the other dishes aren’t quite so big), he finally concedes they might actually be a little much and mooches off to the kitchen muttering about lily-livered appetites. We shared starters and dessert, kept our mains to ourselves, drank gallons of Prosecco and a couple of bottles of Treviso white with dinner and stumbled out of there feeling all was right with the world. So, long live the return of the affordable, fun, neighbourhood eatery, I say. And keep that Prosecco coming.

Bacaro—Jerusalem 6 (Raval). Tel. 695 796 066. Open 10am-midnight, daily. Around €30 for three courses including wine. Tara’s rating: ✪✪✪✪

Read TARA’S food and drink blog for the latest gourmet news and reviews: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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✪ - NOT WORTH THE TRIP, ✪✪ - COULD IMPROVE, ✪✪✪ - GOOD, ✪✪✪✪ - VERY GOOD, ✪✪✪✪✪ - NOT TO BE MISSED

Enjoy the best of Venetian food and hospitality at this new wine and tapas bar. By Tara Stevens. Photo by Richard Owens.

6/27/11 10:46:56 AM


GASTRONOMY 37

Recipe

by Tara Stevens

CANARIAN FISH SANCOCHO

S

ancocho (sometimes spelled samcocho) is a brightly flavoured fish dish served all over the Canary Islands (although it can also refer to a Caribbean stew). It works equally well baked in the oven or grilled on the barbecue and I think the bright, bold flavours are particularly summery. I recommend you buy just one big fish serve it whole on a platter and let your guests tear it apart with their hands. Serve with a plain green salad with lots of avocado (the creaminess is a nice foil to the salty flavours of the fish and potatoes) and plenty of cold beer to make it an occasion.

Ingredients (serves four) · 4 whole sea bass or bream, or 1 large sea bass or bream, gutted and scaled · Large handful fresh mint leaves · 1 tbsp olive oil · 500g small, new potatoes · 2-3 tbsp sea salt For the Mojo Verde · · · ·

200ml extra virgin olive oil 150ml white wine vinegar 6-10 cloves garlic 1 large handful fresh coriander (well washed, roughly chopped) · 1 teaspoon sea salt · ½ teaspoon of cumin Place the garlic, cumin, vinegar and salt in a blender and puree until finely chopped. On a slower speed mix in the coriander leaves and olive oil until you get the consistency of ketchup.

For the Mojo Rojo · · · · · · ·

200ml extra virgin olive oil 150ml white wine vinegar 6-10 cloves garlic 1-3 mid-sized fresh chillies, seeds removed ½ teaspoon of cumin ½ teaspoon of paprika 1 teaspoon sea salt

Place all of the ingredients, except the olive oil, in a blender and purée until you have a smooth paste. Slowly add the olive oil to get an emulsion towards the end.

Method Heat oven to 200ºC. Sprinkle the fish with salt and stuff the mint leaves into the cavity. Place the fish on a baking pan and drizzle with oil. Add the potatoes to a pan of very salty water (they should float, if they don’t, add more water). Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Drain most of the water from the pot and sprinkle on another layer of salt until it crystallises. Turn off the heat and cover the pot with a tea towel for five minutes so that the potato skins go wrinkly. While the potatoes are cooking, bake the fish until crisp and brown on the outside, succulent and opaque—but not dry—in the middle (about 20 minutes for small fish, 30-40 minutes for large fish). Serve the fish on a serving platter surrounded by the potatoes with the mojo sauces on the side.

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6/27/11 10:46:58 AM


38 GASTRONOMY

Lunch with...

Food photos courtesy Cal Pep

This month, Tara Stevens headed to Cal Pep to eat, drink and talk with blogger Niamh Shields.

N

iamh began blogging about food on her site ‘Eat Like A Girl’ (www.eatlikeagirl.com) five years ago and has since become something of a sensation, particularly in the UK, where she is based. Her colourful descriptions of local markets, produce and restaurants and her mouth-watering recipes soon caught the eye of the food publisher Quadrille and her first cookbook comes out in September. The lunch: Cal Pep Smoked salmon montaditos, pimientos Padrón, tuna tartar, jamón ibérico, gooey tortilla, clams with pimentón, and foie botifarra with beans. How did your blog come about? I have always loved food, travel and writing and eventually the three of them came together as ‘Eat Like a Girl’. I am now in my fifth year of blogging and I love it. My cookbook Comfort and Spice is a book of recipes for modern lifestyles; quick, delicious dishes for during the week and some more indulgent ones for the weekend. It’s being printed as we speak and will be out on September 5th. I’m very excited. What brought you to Barcelona and specifically to Cal Pep? The city has great food, great people and lots of sunshine. What’s not to love? I try to get here as often as I can. What I love about Cal Pep is that it’s so open and informal, a bit like a sushi bar. We booked

38 Lunch with PDF.indd 42

a table at the back where it was less crowded and asked the waiter to bring a selection of whatever he thought best from the kitchen. It was wonderful. What dish sums up Barcelona for you? You can’t beat fideuà [a fine noodle dish cooked in a similar way to paella and finished in the oven so the pasta ‘stands to attention’] and I think you’ve got to have them in Barcelona. You’ve got great seafood too and as for the ham, well, swoon. What do you think about the food scene in Barcelona generally? I really enjoy the fact it’s so active, lively and fun. I have yet to explore the fine dining scene, but I enjoy the tapas bars so much I don’t feel that I’m missing out on anything. Niamh’s top tips: Katherine McLaughlin’s cheese shop La Seu (www.formatgerialaseu. com) and Bar Zim (jointly owned by McLaughlin and Francesc Mas Gutierrez) next door too, as it’s got fantastic produce and is intimate and warm. All Spanish cheeses too!

Cal Pep Plaça Olles 8, 933 107 961, www.calpep.com. Open TueSat 1pm-3.45pm, Mon-Fri 7.30pm-11.30pm. Approx €50 per head for several shared tapas and wine.

6/23/11 12:40:44 PM


main pages - July 11 .indd 4

6/20/11 2:41:35 PM


Bar 7Sins Bar and Lounge 4EIXAMPLE e

Food &Drink

If you’re looking for a friendly and good value place to get a bite to eat, 7Sins is the place you’re looking for! Our menu has a vast selection of dishes to share as well as a large choice of gourmet 100% beef burgers. After your meal there’s an elegant lounge with Chesterfield sofas and impressive decor, ideal for having a drink or cocktail. 7Sins also has a terrace where you can enjoy a meal or a drink outdoors. You can see their full menu at www.7sinsbar.com 

For more in food&drink NEFW &D IN

visit our online directory

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

C/Muntaner 7 | Metro Universitat | Tel. 93 453 6445 www.7sinsbar.com | Mon-Fri 11am-3am, Sat-Sun 6pm-3am | RV

Bagels

BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA

E

Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels - you’ll not come away disappointed. 

les so y h subtit it w p o dr a backBogart asHumphrey Ever wished you could share a cocktail with Audrey Hepburn here in ic fr edand n e e r ed mus c t s c Barcelona? Well now you can! Cinebar brings the golden age of cinema back to Barcelona le e s lly Wave with original version screeningsd of everything from Hollywood classics arefuNew etocFrench l y thmade u jo o n and Italian neo-realism. While you’re there, enjoy als‘cine sandwich’ from a selection c e o u a yo a movie-themed salad, fresh juices, smoothies, proper Italianticoffee eda breads, hrustic es. or, of s l i wisofcourse, a t cocktail.  the Six k o c t s o e c ti Thir elona V.O.S Cinebar4SARRIÀ & EIXAMPLE

ver arc share B urn or b p e H y dre with Au u can. o y w o N ogart? B y e r h Hump

nd ‘cine sa a y jo n ere, e ou’re th ds, a m While y tic brea s u r f o ction C/Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Metro L6 and L7 Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com ope m a sele o Open from Mon-Fri 9.30-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm, r f hies, pr t o Plaça Cardona 4 | Metro GràciaCarrer | Paris 200 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 93 002 2300 | Open 8am-3am o Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm m s juices, ona is a d, fresh za Card la la a s P in Bar - Live Music EBAR ktail. there’s ned CIN e, a coc , e s is r p u s o o w c ly e f Margarita Blue or, o flaherty's4BARRI GÒTIC good n The new and the 4BARRI GÒTIC / s C n a h f it w lm ( fi 0 r 0 o Since it was established in 2001, Flaherty’s gnet f r Paris, 2 maBarcelona, Located in the heart of old has become one of Barcelona’s best known location fo g on C/ in n e ct p Margarita Blue has become a classic e o f r and busiest Irish pubs. By offering food h e c p n e a is th (including in the city’s bar scene. Delightotinhthe er br all day from in 10am ebatilrmidnight an kitchCFull lm fe th. dishes from the ‘‘Mexiterranean” n o our popular Irish Breakfast as well asnd mini fi m is a s en, such as a variety of tacos, amazing nados) th n group menus), live satellite ctio on big ojesports prterrace guacamole, fresh carpaccio and ric Gra Entomates screens, WiFi, sunny and a pool froa m Martin verdes fritos or take pleasure in a drink not er it ’s a ck room where you can also playwdarts, h a t b e h a or cocktail whilst appreciating new m to mention its very s. So premises, of cine iréespacious music and spectacular shows that alteraC en age Flaherty’s hasso rightly become known as ld o g after or f o e e nate between theatre and performance h s ’r t g u s o in g y the pub that has it all!  n in t br tha art.  n scree Cinebar stirred – al versio in Here’s ig r o inebar. nch C with e t r a a F n it o lo t e d n to Barc classics you’ll fi ywood ll o e r H a s m g fro . All film C/Josep Anselm Clave 6 | Metro Drassaneseverythin realism o e Plaça Joaquim Xirau | Metro Drassanes Tel. 93 412 5489 | www.margaritablue.com | Mon-Fri n n a Tel. 93 412 6263 1.30pm-4pm, 8pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun 6pm-2.30am | RV and Itali e v a W New

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6/27/11 10:48:03 AM

ar


FOOD & DRINK 41 Café – ice Cream shop

Juice and smoothie Bar CafeterÍa Vil·la florida4SARRIÀ A little oasis in Barcelona’s Zona Alta Cafetería Vil·la Florida is situated in the San Gervasi civic centre, in a beautiful, stately building surrounded by gardens. During the week they offer a la carte or a menú whilst at the weekends there’s brunch and tapas. Breakfasts, premium teas, fresh natural juices, and cakes and biscuits plus healthy, home-made deserts. 

C/Muntaner 544 | Metro Putxet | Bus: 64 (stop Muntaner); Bus: 22, 75 (stop Pl. Bononova) Mon-Fri 9am-10pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm

delivery Vitali PiZZa Special Metropolitan offer: Buy 3 pizzas and get the 4th pizza FREE + a bottle of Lambrusco. 

C. Paris, 109 I Metro Hospital Clinic I Tel. 93 444 4737 Gran Via, 931 I Metro Clot | Tel. 93 303 0735 C. Taxdirt, 13 I Metro Joanic/Gracia | Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com

sano 4GRÀCIA - BARRI GÒTIC Want a healthy, tasty alternative? Try a refreshing smoothie like Antioxidant, Mango & Passion Fruit or Coco Muesli (3.80) or a delicious juice made only with fresh blended fruit and no added water, milk or sugar (3.60). Want something savory? Try a tasty home-made bagel (4) or a yummy muffin (2). Can’t decide? Try one of their convenient combos from 4.50. 

sushi on the BeaCh

Two boys put their heads together and came up with a great idea! Sushi delivered to while you sunbathe on the beach, 7 days a week. Choose between two 10 menus. 4 Prawn Makis with cream cheese, strawberry, salmon, teriyaki sauce and black sesame + 4 Futomaki of salmon and mango + 4 California rolls You’re just a call away from fresh sushi, made daily with love, delivered to you while you sunbathe.  Tel. 672 917 174

Gran de Gràcia, 16 | Metro Diagonal | Tel. 93 217 8115 | Jaume I 1, | Metro Jaume I | Tel. 93 310 3247 Every day 10am-8pm | info@sanojuice.com | www.sanojuice.com

international

gourMet eXPress4BARCELONA ‘Lunch Box’ by Gourmet Express. The best alternative to pizza or Asian food. A new concept in Barcelona; we are specialists in delivering high-quality food to your home or office at reasonable prices. We can deliver within 30 minutes, exquisite menús, made by our own chefs using only the freshest products. Traditional Catalan and Mediterranean food to satisfy the most discerning palate, thoughtfully served with all you might need, including metal cutlery and glasses. All so you can enjoy food in the comfort of your home or office. Free delivery to readers of Barcelona Metropolitan. 

C/Pasaje Milans 28 | Tel. 93 260 0789 | www.gourmet-express.es

Food & drink July 2011.indd 45

gut4GRÀCIA Firstly there’s the food. Using only the finest quality ingredients, the kitchen specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with an international twist and plenty of options for vegetarians. Try their quinoa and tofu burgers or a sinful home-made dessert. Secondly, there’s Gut’s attention to detail and the friendly, respectful service. It’s the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the night in good company. Try it for yourself and find out why everyone is talking about Gut. 

C/Perill, 13 I Metro Diagonal I Tel. 93 186 6360 I restaurantgut@gmail.com

6/27/11 10:48:11 AM


42 FOOD & DRINK veg world4GRÀCIA Discover a world of sensations in a relaxed and homely atmosphere. Try vegetarian delicacies from all over the world such as delicious bread home-made in a Tandoori oven and south Indian dishes like Masala dosa and Idly. Daily continental and Indian menus, 9.50 inc. Free soup and salad buffet. 

C/Bruniquer 26 | Metro Plaça Joanic Tel. 93 210 7056 | Tues-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.30pm

Mediterranean

Hard Rock CafE4CIUTAT VELLA Hard Rock Cafe Barcelona offers an inspired, creative ambience with incredible rock‘n’roll memorabilia on display. Come and taste authentic American food. Their barbecue entrées slow cooked in the cafe’s hardwood smokers are delicious. Visit the bar to try a premium cocktail and check out the live music and special events on offer. Don’t forget to stop at the Rock Shop for fine, classic, cotton T-shirts or a collectable Hard Rock pin. 

Plaça Catalunya 21 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 270 2305 | www.hardrock.com/barcelona | Restaurant: Sun-Thurs 12am-2am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 12am-3am | Rock Shop: Sun-Thurs 10am-1.30am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 10am-2am

Indian - Hindu Govinda (VEGETARIAN)4 BARRI GÒTIC A restaurant veteran for 24 years, Govinda specialises in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. It offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. 

Pl. Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-12am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

MOTI MAHAL4RAVAL Conveniently located between the Rambla de Raval and Paral·lel, Moti Mahal offers an extensive menu of Indian cuisine, including madras and tika dishes, sheek kebabs, traditional soups breads and biryanis. A large variety of vegetarian dishes are also available. House specialities are the clay oven-cooked tandoori dishes and the tofu paneer pakora. Menu of the day is on offer Mon-Fri for 9.25. 

C/Sant Pau 103 | Metro Paral.lel | Tel. 93 329 3252 www.motimahalbcn.com Every day 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12am Closed Tues Lunch | RV

Food & drink July 2011.indd 46

Romero4 EIXAMPLE D Located in the centre of the city, just a few streets from Passeig de Gracia, this exquisite and charming restaurant serves fresh, organic produce sourced directly from local markets. The staff are determined to share their love for Barcelona and its culinary wonders and only use the best ingredients to create their delicious dishes. The idea behind the restaurant was to create a unique space where good friends could come together and enjoy great Mediterranean food and wine. The chef at Romero, José Antonio Camacaro León, has an unmatched passion for food and offers his guests creative, natural dishes based on Mediterranean cuisine. With options for vegetarians and gluten-free menu items, there’s something to suit all tastes. Be sure to check out the great value set menus and daily specials too.  C/Bailén 115 | Metro Verdaguer or Girona | Tel. 93 457 0640 info@romerobcn.com | www.romerobcn.com | Mon to Sat Lunch starting at 1pm Mon-Fri 5pm-9pm, Thu-Sat Dinner starting at 8.30pm

NEFW &D IN

Sukur4BARRI GÒTIC Located right in the centre of the Gotic area, this delightful restaurant invites you to enjoy a wide and tasty selection of Mediterranean and Greek specialties. Their extensive bar and cool atmosphere makes it a perfect place to unwind and relax with a delicious cocktail. Superb quality and price - highly recommended. 

C/ Avinyó, 42 | Metro Liceu | Tel. 93 218 3000

6/27/11 10:48:16 AM


FOOD & DRINK 43 indian - Modern thai thai4EIXAMPLE E

shanti4LES CORTS Shanti (which means peace in Sanskrit) have selected a rich and varied menu comprised of traditional dishes that offer an authentic Indian experience to even the most discerning palettes. Using classic recipes their dishes respect tradition but come with modern presentation. Try their tasting menu for only 24.90 (+IVA). 

Thai Thai restaurant invites you to taste and enjoy traditional Thai food with tropical ingredients from Thailand prepared by Thai chefs. They specialise in all kinds of Thai curries. Thai Thai has created a delicious tasting menu for only 24 and a fresh menu of the day is on offer for 9.50 during the week.  C/Diputació 91 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 620 938 059 | www.thaithai.es C/Princep Jordi, 6 | Metro España | Tel. 663 126 398 | Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV | www.thaithaibcn.com

Vegetarian aMaltea4EIXAMPLE E Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant where tasty and healthy meals are served in a welcoming environment. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure all ingredients are fresh and dishes are well balanced. Menu of the day 10.50, night and weekend menu 15. 

C/Agustina Saragossa 3-5 (in front of CC L’Illa) Metro Maria Cristina - Tram 1,2,3 L’Illa Tel. 93 252 3115 | www.shanti.es Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.45pm Closed Sun | RV

C/Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.amalteaygovinda.com | Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-11.30pm, Closed Sun

Vietnamese shanti4CALAFEL This exciting new restaurant opens its doors in the quaint beach town of Calafel. They serve authentic Indian dishes using traditional recipes but with a modern presentation. Come and enjoy their terrace which has fantastic beach views. 

NEFW &D IN

Ave. Sant Joan de Deu 43, Calafel Playa, Tel. 97 769 3901 I info@shantirestaurant.com. www.shantirestaurant.com

take-away PiM PaM Burger4BORN Here quality is of the upmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises. 

C/Sabateret 4 I Metro Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 burger@pimpamplats.com I www.pimpamplats.com Every day 1pm-12am

Bun Bo ViÊtnaM4BARRI GÒTIC Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes. Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace. The kitchen is open non-stop all day. 

C/Sagristans 3 | Metro Urquinaona | Tel. 93 301 1378 | www.bunbovietnam.com | 1pm-1am Every day

thai thai graCia4GRACIA Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 11 menu del dia is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more. 

C/ Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV

Food & drink July 2011.indd 47

food &drink

to advertise in this section, please call 93 451 4486 or email ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

6/27/11 10:48:24 AM


44 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

HAIRDRESSER • MASSAGE

Business directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Taller - HAIRDRESSER

KERATIN SMOOTHING TREATMENT Now available

What sets apart an Aveda beauty professional? Their mission is to bring out their client’s natural beauty. Aveda partners with salon and spa professionals around the world. They see beauty as a craft and believe that authentic beauty is one that works in harmony with nature. Authentic beauty cares for the environment we inherited and that we’ll leave to the generations that follow us. Authentic beauty cares about society, creating harmony in the way we live and the way we interact with one another as human beings. Taller lives this mission to the full, offering gentle and natural hair and beauty treatments in a unique and beautiful space in the heart of the Born.

Pescateria 8, Born T. 93 315 0980 Metro: Barceloneta (L4) Open Mon 2pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 11am-8pm

Kinki - HAIRDRESSER Anthony Llobet English Hair Salon - HAIRDRESSER Don’t let your Spanish come between you and your hair. Anglo-Catalan Anthony Llobet has over 20 years’ experience in hairstyling and a passion for excellent client service. Anthony leads a dedicated team of stylists who specialise in a variety of services, including Afro hair, extensions, straightening and make-up (and speak over 11 languages between them). The original retro interior and friendly staff create a very special atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy a stylish cut. Put your trust in Anthony and the team, who are strongly committed to providing you with outstanding service at affordable prices. Gracia, C/Ros de Olano 19, T. 93 218 0449 / 639 931 555 Raval, C/Sant Pau 122, T. 93 441 3177 / 645 257 506 Eixample, C/Córsega 364, T. 93 457 4211 / 691 330 188 El Born, C/Carders 34, T.93 295 4871 7 645 257 628 Gótic, C/Avunyó 34, T. 93 301 4513 / 691 676 363 www.anthonyllobet.com

Pintor Fortuny 14, Raval Metro: Catalunya (L1, L3) T. 93 302 3379 www.kinkipeluqueros.es Open Mon 4pm-8pm, Tues-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 10.30am-8pm

La Hair Boutique -

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE

Trained by Toni & Guy London, Veronique runs a friendly salon with a dedicated team who speak English, Spanish, French and Swedish. La Hair Boutique is a relaxed and cosy salon that offers progressive cuts and colours and great style advice too. They are especially talented at creating new, personalised looks using the latest techniques.

Relax and de-stress with a therapeutic full-body massage. The deep tissue massage relieves tension, reduces stress and removes physical strains. Nunu Roney at The Vital Touch offers treatments to help women and men relax, energise, re-balance and improve their health and lifestyle. Hot stone massage also available. Book today and take advantage of a 10% discount for Metropolitan readers.

HAIRDRESSER

Plaça Regomir 5, Metro: Jaume 1 (L4) T. 93 269 1937 M. 699 643 462 www.hairboutiquebarcelona.com

MP 44-49 JULY.indd 44

Kinki peluqueros is an international hairstyling group from Holland with over 40 salons in their home country. They put their heart and soul into cutting and colouring the most beautiful hairstyles, from the latest trends to classic cuts. If you bring a friend for a full treatment they will give you both a 15% discount and a free glass of cava. English, Spanish, Dutch, German and French speaking.

T. 659 995 657 www.tvtbarcelona.com

6/27/11 12:03:49 PM


BODYWORK · VETERINARY CLINIC · DOCTORS · DENTISTS · CHEMIST’S

Julia Zatta - BODYWORK

Bonavet - VETERINARY CLINIC

Julia Zatta can help you renew your body and transform your life with rolfing. Rolfing is a bodywork modality that releases postural compensations, helping each person find his or her own alignment. Free your body from structural tension and gain vitality and wellbeing with Julia, an expert in the rolfing method and structural integration.

Professional and friendly, the Bonavet veterinary clinic is run by a member of the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons of London. They provide veterinary consultations, surgery, analyses, x-rays and diet advice. The clinic is located in Plaça Bonanova and also offers pet grooming.

Centre Cos, Gran de Gracia 77, Principal 1a Metro: Fontana (L3) T. 93 217 6136 www.juliazatta.com

Plaça Bonanova 10 T. 93 211 0204

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR

Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Established in 2005, Googol Medical Centre offers its patients comprehensive healthcare in a friendly, discreet and relaxed environment. UK doctor, Steven Joseph provides a wide range of medical care for the English-speaking community in Barcelona.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 FGC Diagonal or Gràcia

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 Metro: Les Corts (L3) T. 93 330 2412 M. 627 669 524 googol@hotmail.es www.googolmedicalcentre.com Open Mon-Sat

Dr. Nicholas Jones - DENTIST

Tingsvall & McCarthy

Any fears about going to the dentist or a possible language barrier are diminished here with the caring, relaxed atmosphere. Dr Nicholas Jones’ clinic keeps up to date with the latest developments in dentistry in order to provide the best care possible, at affordable prices. Free check-ups.

Diagonal 281, Metro: Sagrada Familia (L5) Monumental (L2) T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 nickteeth@hotmail.com www.nickteeth.com Open Mon-Sat

Deutsche zk - DENTIST Deutsche ZK dental clinic believes that a well-informed patient is a happy one and so offer all their clients free check ups and x-rays. They aim to always meet the needs of each client, and recognise the importance of a trusting relationship between the client and their health provider. They are proud to be at the forefront of dentistry.

Consell de Cent 249, bajos Metro Urgell (L1) T. 93 323 9629 info@deutsche-zk.com www.deutsche-zk.com

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY 45

- DENTIST

Dr. Stefan Tingsvall offers general dentistry, orthodontics, prosthodontics and endodontics, whilst Elena McCarthy is a qualified dental hygienist and specialises in comprehensive preventative care and tooth whitening Bright Smile. Together, they aim to provide a relaxing and pleasant experience for the patient. Castellnou 47, T. 93 205 1903 M. 636 312 522/696 664 430 FGC Les Tres Torres (L6) Bus: 16, 30, 66, 70, 72, 74 tingsvall_mccarthy@hotmail.com www.tingsvall-mccarthy.com Open Mon-Sat

Pharmacy Serra Mandri

CHEMISTS

The helpful and qualified pharmaceutical staff at this wellknown Barcelona chemists can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and also offers a home delivery service. Av. Diagonal 478 Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) Chemists T. 93 416 1270 Homeopathy T. 93 217 3249 Open every day 9am-10pm

6/27/11 12:03:51 PM


46 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

CHIROPRACTOR · LIFE COACH · PSYCHOLOGISTS

American Chiropractic Center - Doctors of Chiropractic

Isabel Solanich - LIFE COACH / COUNSELLOR

Do you suffer from problems such as lower back pain, sciatica, neck pain, headaches, shoulder and articular pain, discal hernia, fibromyalgia, or stress? Dr Chiappinelli and his team pride themselves on providing friendly and professional chiropractic care, with the clear aim of improving the patient’s health. The clinics, located in Barcelona and Sitges, have individual treatment rooms which are equipped with the most up-to-date and innovative technology. Dr. Chiappinelli and his team qualified from the top American and French universities and have worked for 20 years to ensure and provide an unbeatable service. They speak English, French, German and Italian. Make an appointment at either of the clinics and let the team help you to reach your maximum health potential.

As a trained life coach, counsellor and reiki master, Isabel will help you to change situations you don’t like in your life. Isabel can help and guide you to take control of your emotions to achieve personal satisfaction. Face to face, by telephone or via Skype.

Barcelona: Pau Claris, 139 3o 2a, T. 93 487 5035 Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L3, L5) Sitges: Rafael Llopart 74, T. 93 811 0101 www.bcnchiro.com

T. 676 698 529 consulta@tubienestarpersonal.com www.tubienestarpersonal.com

Coach Bing - LIFE COACHING

NEST - PSYCHOLOGISTS

Kick-start your life with coaching and create positive change in your personal and professional life. An expat life coach is an excellent support, and especially helpful in a newly adopted country. Coach Bing is a member of the International Coach Federation.

NEST is a dedicated team of Englishspeaking therapists who provide professional services to individuals, families, schools and companies. They include highly-qualified, licensed psychologists, psychotherapists and educational specialists who live and work in Barcelona and offer their outstanding services to the Englishspeaking community in the city. For more details of our practitioners, visit our website or see our advertisement on page 10.

Network of English Speaking Therapists Established since 2000

T. 93 811 2227 M. 656 932 468 bingkohner@limitbusters.net www.limitbusters.com

www.barcelonanest.com

Nick Cross - PSYCHOLOGIST

Hestia - PSYCHOTHERAPY

-PSYCHOTHERAPIST

The Hestia International Centre of Psychotherapy has become a reference in the city. The professional team work with individuals, couples and families through psychotherapy, coaching, counselling, clinical hypnosis, art therapy, NLP and EMDR. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese and Greek and the first consultation is free.

Nick Cross is a registered psychologist, specialised in psychotherapy. Psychotherapy can help you with the causes of distress and unhappiness and it provides treatment for anxiety, fears, relationship difficulties, depression, problems adjusting, loss and trauma.

T. 644 193 825 ncross@copc.es

Manuel Isaías López, MD, PhD Claudia Ros Tusquets MA Clinical Psychologist Child and Adolescent Passeig Sant Joan 180 Pral 2a Psychiatrist & Psychoanalyst & Psychotherapist Joanic 934 102 962Metro: / 657 570 692 (L4) T. 93 459 2802 686 991 742 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

www.barcelonanest.com

All NEST professionals are Licensed / Certified

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English - Spanish - Catalan - Dutch - German - Italian

6/27/11 12:03:53 PM


PSYCHOLOGISTS · CONSTRUCTION · INTERIOR DESIGN · SECURITY · MOPED RENTALS · RENTALS

Eugenia Espinosa PSYCHOTHERAPY

Eugenia is a dedicated professional who specialises in psychological issues related to immigration. She offers effective treatment for mood and anxiety disorders as well as couples and family therapy. The first consultation with Eugenia is free.

Jonathan Lane Hooker - Psychotherapist

Jonathan Hooker can help if you’re looking for support, guidance or help with any aspect of your life. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he is dedicated to helping people make sense of their lives. Jonathan provides one-to-one sessions or workshops for groups of four to 12 people. Metropolitan readers are invited to a free 20-minute introductory meeting.

T. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com

T. 93 590 7654 M.639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

tProject - CONSTRUCTION

Inysi - CONSTRUCTION

Looking for help without the worry of getting lost in translation? This experienced team of builders provide a range of services, including renovations, bespoke carpentry, kitchens and bathrooms, decoration, shopfitting, electrical installations, IT networks, satellite TV, architectural services and exhibition stands. Get in touch with tProject for an obligationfree quote.

The Inysi Industrial team are professionals in plumbing and electrical services, air conditioning and satellite installation. Providing services for over 60 years to households and companies, no job is too big or too small for them. If you’re looking for someone reliable that you can trust, then get in touch today.

Contact: John Steven Thorp T. 93 460 7803 M. 691 664 806 john@tproject.eu

Graham Collins Interior Design

Graham Collins is an experienced interior designer and property consultant and can help with everything concerning property, design and decoration. So, whether you need help working out the property market or are looking for someone to renovate your home, Graham is here to help you.

Alcolea 42, Bajos Metro: Plaça de Sants (L1, L5) T. 657 994 630

Locksmith - SECURITY Experts in security, Mastercerrajeros can help you keep your property secure. From a simple lock change to metal shutters, safety doors or installing the most advanced security system on the market, they will ensure you get the security solution you need. Their service is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Consolat del Mar 35, 3er Metro: Barceloneta (L4) T. 678 757 511 grahamcollins@talk21.com

T. 607 886 622 info@mastercerrajeros.com

Via Vespa - MOPED RENTALS

Van - Removals

Explore Barcelona in style with Via Vespa. Rent a new and automatic Italian Vespa LX 50 and go from the beach to the hills, dive into the city centre and find your way through the charming little streets of Barcelona. Rent your vespa by the hour or take a tour with friends. The coolest way to see the city.

VanBCN offers experience, good service and inexpensive rates to make your move or removal safe and easy. Whether you are looking for man with a van for a quick move or if you want to do a complete removal, just call or send your request online. VanBCN adapts its service to your needs. They can pick up your stuff or take it to the port, airport or storage. Deliver home your purchases from Ikea or any other shop. Move your office, your room or your house. Just contact VanBCN. They know how to do it.

Princesa 56 T. 93 319 6754 M. 656 860 471 barcelona@via-vespa.com www.via-vespa.com

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BUSINESS DIRECTORY 47

T. 93 426 7684 M. 647 533 344 www.vanbcn.com

6/27/11 12:03:55 PM


48 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

REMOVALS · LANGUAGE SCHOOLS

Corase - REMOVALS Corase specialise in international removals and have a worldwide network of agents. You can trust them with any type of move, big or small. Their staff are attentive to each client’s needs and are trained to ensure that you get quality, speed and security. Corase also offer a range of other services, including storage facilities. They will be happy to give you a free quote.

Spanish for foreigners

Languages4Life -

LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Check out Languages4Life. The Spanish teachers are native speakers with experience and offer intensive Spanish classes. The classrooms are equipped with the best technology and are large, light and have beautiful mosaic floors. Simply a very nice place to be and study.

Av. Diagonal 249 Metro: Monumental (L2) T. 900 702 270 (free) info@mudanzascorase.es www.mudanzascorase.es

València 275 3o Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 487 5116 learn@languages4life.com Skype languages4life

Versión Original -

BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL

The experienced teachers at Versión Original are thrilled to share their enthusiasm for the Spanish language and culture. This small city centre school, with classes of no more than 10 students, is devoted to languages, especially Spanish. There’s a great atmosphere here and a 5% discount for Metropolitan readers.

BCN Lip Languages is a small school with a warm and welcoming atmosphere in Barcelona’s old town. They offer both intensive and extensive courses and it’s the perfect place to ensure success in your language immersion. The centre is equipped with the most advanced facilities to enable you to succeed in your chosen language.

Gran Via 636, 1o 1a A Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 412 4576 info@versionoriginalbcn.com www.versionoriginalbcn.com

T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Bindung - LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Centros de Estudio de Español - LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Learn Spanish with them in Barcelona, it’s easy! There are new courses starting every month and you can choose between 10, 20 or 30 hours a week in the morning or afternoon. The school promises small groups, and conversational or business classes are also available. They have over 50 years experience and guarantee the best teaching quality to achieve successful results. Those at Bindung consider themselves to be a leading reference for any cultural, entrepreneurial or formative action between cultures. One of their main purposes is to create a meeting space to encourage Spanish learning and facilitate communication between cultures. Their courses aim to train students to achieve a good command of Spanish by focusing on reading, listening, writing and speaking.

Learn Spanish with Centros de Estudio de Español from just €95! The centre prides itself on being a school of excellence, dedicated to helping every student in their quest to learn Spanish. They offer many programmes, such as small groups, evening classes or intensive programmes, built to ensure that every student achieves their potential. The classes are available for all levels, so whether you are a complete beginner or would like to top up your Spanish, the CEE will have what you’re looking for. They also offer DELE exam preparation and courses in many other languages. Registration is free with this ad!

C/Ausiàs March 26 Metro: Urquinaona (L1) T. 93 311 5824 info@bindungbarcelona.com

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CEE, Roger de Llúria 123 (Provença) Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) or Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 488 0080 info@cursos.org www.cursos.org

6/27/11 12:03:58 PM


LANGUAGE SCHOOLS · ART THERAPY · CREATIVE ACTIVITIES

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 49

BCN Metropol - LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Speakeasy - LANGUAGE SCHOOL

Study Spanish in one of Spain’s most established and prestigious language schools. Since 1982 Metropol have provided high-quality language training to students of all nationalities. The school is right in the heart of Barcelona city centre and it’s a great place to learn or improve your Spanish. It’s a popular and specialised school, with more than 27 years of experience and they offer great value Spanish courses for all levels. In order for every student to have the best experience possible, the qualified teachers use the Prisma method which is recognised by the Instituto Cervantes. The material is modern and effective for small groups and there is also free internet access. Metropol promises high quality at low prices and registration is free with this ad.

Right in the heart of Barcelona, Speakeasy Language School offers highquality intensive Spanish courses at attractive prices. Founded in 2001, Speakeasy is committed to being one of the best Spanish language schools in Spain. A quality service is guaranteed with a combined staff of Spanish and foreign internationals. Students come from all over the world and there are never more than 10 students in each group. Speakeasy has modern AV equipment available to aid learning and also spacious, air-conditioned classrooms. The highly-qualified and experienced teachers, together with the excellent course plan, are the keys to their success and the reason why more than 99% of their students recommend Speakeasy.

Pau Claris 87, 1o1a Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) T. 93 301 8241 www.bcnmetropol.com

Ronda Universitat 7, 1o 3a Metro: Universitat (L1, L2) T. 93 342 7197 www.speakeasybcn.com

One-to-One -

Kingsbrook - LANGUAGE

Learn exactly what you need with one-to-one Spanish classes in the office or at home. Focus your classes on the language and vocabulary that best serves you according to your own personal or professional needs. Business Spanish and small group classes are also available. Get confident in Spanish with Pilar.

Kingsbrook have been helping people learn Spanish in a simple, pleasant and fun way since 1985. The school is located in the heart of Barcelona and has a team of experienced and dedicated staff. In order to create an optimal learning environment, the school ensures that classes have only between 7-10 students.

T. 610 057 266

Trav. de Gràcia 60, Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) T. 93 209 3763 info@kingsbrookbcn.com www.kingsbrookbcn.com

Metafora - ART THERAPY

Collage - CREATIVE ACTIVITIES

Metafora is a non-profit organisation which has worked with contemporary art and art therapy for over 10 years. They offer full-time workshops and classes in studio arts, as well as a wide range of cultural, educational and therapeutic activities.

Collage was founded in 2005 as a multi-disciplinary learning centre. Collage is an art, language and dance education centre, dedicated to handson learning and individual expression for people of all ages. Programmes include private or group language, dance and art classes. They also provide a cultural meeting point for community events and celebrations.

SPANISH CLASSES

Papin 29 T. 93 330 0089 www.metafora.org

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SCHOOL

Gràcia T. 93 284 6520 collagebarcelona@gmail.com www.collagebarcelona.com

6/27/11 12:04:02 PM


50 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

PIANO CLASSES · COMPUTERS · TELEVISION SERVICE

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

Libby Barnes -

PIANO LESSONS

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

Ever dreamed of playing the piano? Now you can, with enthusiastic teacher Libby Barnes. Libby has over 15 years’ experience and can teach a variety of styles, including classical, jazz, blues and rock. Everybody from complete beginners to the advanced can improve with every session. It is never too late to learn, and Libby’s classes are available to all ages, at all levels.

T. 679 796 281 barnes.libby@hotmail.com

T. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es

FG NET - COMPUTERS

Easi-Sat - TELEVISION SERVICE

FG Net provide computer and communication solutions which include: professional on-site service, PC and laptop repair-setups, virus removal and protections and DSL wireless-Internet. They can also help to find quick solutions with phone and internet providers. High quality service is guaranteed.

Easi-Sat are specialists in satellite TV, HD and audio-visual installations and are unmatched for quality and reliability. The professional team provides satellite television from across Europe and a personal, efficient and friendly service. Contact them now for a free quote and special offers.

Muntaner 467 T. 93 212 0113 M. 658 602 172

T. 93 845 9874 M. 649 413 832 enquiries@easisat.net www.easisat.net

PC Solution - COMPUTERS Do you need a professional computing service with personal support that can solve your computer problems quickly? Then PC Solution is what you are looking for. The team consists of experienced, professional and friendly PC technicians who provide a reliable and confidential service. With the Home Office Callout Service, they will help solve any technical problem and provide free health check-ups for your business. They also offer on-site installation, IT security solutions and software installation in English. The professionals at PC Solution work hard to provide an excellent service and can assist with any computer queries: laptop, PC and server repair or advice about anything concerning the internet, wireless and networking. All of this at the most competitive rates in town!

T. 686 294 240 pcsoln@gmail.com

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Smartsat - TELEVISION SERVICE Want to watch UK television? Smartsat was set up in 2002 to offer people living in Spain the choice of watching their favourite UK TV channels including the BBC, ITV, Channel 4, Five and the entire FreeSat platform. They have since gone from strength to strength and have installed systems for hundreds of satisfied customers. They’ll build a package perfect for you, whether it’s an individual satellite installation for your home, or multiple installations for offices. Based in Barcelona, the team can go to homes and businesses across Catalunya. Choose from a variety of packages including Standard, Plus (integrated hard drive) and Plus HD (High Definition). A full after-sales service is available and all of the equipment provided is guaranteed. Get in contact with Smartsat today, for all of your satellite needs. T. 610 092 848 tv@smartsat.tv www.smartsat.tv

6/23/11 1:14:20 PM


TELEVISION SERVICE · TELEPHONE SERVICE · TAX & ACCOUNTING SERVICES · LEGAL PRACTICE

BUSINESS DIRECTORY 51

Europa Digital - TELEVISION SERVICE

BritSat - TELEVISION SERVICE

Tired of being out the loop on the best documentaries or are you a secret soap fan? Or, maybe you’re just missing your favourite television programmes from home. There’s no need to miss out anymore. Now you can see all of your favourite channels here in Barcelona! Europa Digital are proud of the service they can offer you. They know what their customers need and can install a whole range of channels from BBC HD, Freesat, itv hd, 4hd, Sky, Sky 3d, Sky Sports and many more. The experienced and professional team give friendly advice to ensure that you recieve the best package to suit your needs. Their systems are supplied, installed and guaranteed by Barcelona’s premier satellite company. Visit their showroom before you buy or call them now for a free quotation.

BritSat offer great television packages so you’ll never have to miss your favourite TV programmes again. Craving a bit of classic comedy, your favourite soap or just fed up of feeling out of the loop of the best TV at home? BritSat will install the full package you choose for a great price. Take your pick from some of the best television in Europe as they install British, Dutch, German, Italian and French satellite TV. The team will create tailor-made installations to suit your requirements, always aiming to find the most discreet location for the dish and cables. BritSat provides excellent customer care and can also incorporate sound systems and multi-screen viewing.

Floridablanca 78 Metro: Sant Antoni (L2) T. 93 325 1797 M. 666 556 452

T. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

Freespeech - TELEPHONE

Tax & Accounting -

Freespeech offers the solution to expensive overseas calls. Their great prices allow you to ring internationally at the same price as to anybody in Spain. In just three easy steps you can call home for the cost of a local call. 1) Dial local number 640 199 975. 2) Call the international number (00 + country code + number). 3) Talk!

Qualified UK accountant with 25 years experience in Spain offers: · Tax services for freelance ‘autónomos’ & companies · Income tax returns for employees & non-residents · Registration of ‘autónomos’ & company incorporation (SL) · Practical advice on setting up a business in Spain · Fast, reliable email service

SERVICE

www.freespeech.es

ASR - LEGAL PRACTICE Alvaro Silva Rojas Lawyers is an English-speaking lawyers’ office which provides full legal services. The committed team is dedicated to looking after each client’s individual needs at cost-effective prices. Call today and they will be more than happy to advise you.

Aragón 335 1, Metro: Girona (L4) T. 93 207 7241 M. 697 683 054 F. 93 207 4785 alvaro@icab.es www.abogados-asr.com

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Tax & Accounting services

Call David Cook (34) 678 702 369 Visit www.spainaccounting.com Email info@spainaccounting.com

Sánchez Molina -

LEGAL PRACTICE

The lawyers at Sanchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

6/23/11 1:14:21 PM


52 BUSINESS DIRECTORY

LEGAL PRACTICE · INSURANCE · FINANCIAL ADVICE · FINANCIAL COACHING

Legal Quelle Avocats -

Gabinet Jurídic Tessal -

LEGAL PRACTICE

LEGAL PRACTICE

- Foreign trade (export/import) - Commercial/civil law - Non resident income tax/ corporate tax - Legal defence (litigation/arbitration) - Transfer pricing - Tax consultancy (capital markets,...) - Business start-ups

Founded in 1983, Gabinet Jurídic Tessal is made up of a small team of highly-qualified professionals. They can help with all types of law including property, construction, accident, damages, family and immigration. They are also experts in business law for accounting services, taxes and social security. They can discuss your legal matters in English and French. Ask for Esther Maya.

Passeig de Gràcia 118, ppal Metro: Diagonal (L3, L5) T. 93 125 8799 M. 651 820 276

Perú 40-44, Escala 2, 2ºA Metro: Glòries (L1) T. 93 486 9451 F. 93 486 9452 emaya@tessal.com www.tessal.com

Grupo Catalana Occidente -

Hyperien - INSURANCE

An expert in the insurance field, Dagmar Schittenhelm provides his services to many satisfied customers in German or English. Contact Dagmar if you’re looking for free, professional insurance advice with no obligation. Dagmar is a member of the prestigious Grupo Catalana Occidente.

Based in Malaga, Hyperien Insurance is an insurance agency that caters specifically to people who live in Spain and are comitted to providing you with a friendly, first-rate customer service. The policies they offer include motor, house, travel, pet and medical. They can offer you a competitive insurance quotation quickly and efficiently over the telephone or via email.

T. 93 630 2190 / 93 630 1637 Afternoon T. 93 371 3868 M. 617 320 323 d.schittenhelm@terra.es

T. 95 289 5216 www.hyperien.net

INSURANCE

Green Beans -

Financial Coaching Green Bean coaching provides entrepreneurs and business owners with successful strategies and guidance to increase profits and ensure that they have more free time. Are you looking to increase profits, improve cash flow or just take your business to the next level? Learn more with a free, no-obligation coaching session. 100% money-back guarantee if you don’t see the results you desire. T. 93 268 9544 M. 693 940 701 explore@freegreenbeans.com www.freegreenbeans.com

The Spectrum IFA Group - FINANCIAL ADVICE The Spectrum Group aims to create and provide financial planning solutions for expatriates and foreign residents, helping them to protect and enhance their financial resources. The experienced team of qualified and regulated advisers provides financial advice on all aspects of living in Spain, including retirement planning, mortgages, health insurance, currency exchange rates, Spanish tax and offshore wealth management. Their advisers will work with you to plan your finances to make the most of the opportunities offered by the expatriate lifestyle. Advisers are English-speaking but most also have a good knowledge of Spanish and Catalan. The Spectrum Group is licensed throughout the EU and has six offices in Europe. Advisers in the Spanish branch of The Spectrum Group live in Spain and are dedicated to providing the best service possible to each client. T. 93 665 8596 barcelona@spectrum-ifa.com www.spectrum-ifa.com

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To advertise in our business directory call:

93 451 4486

email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

6/23/11 1:14:23 PM


Job directory To advertise in this section, call:

93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Corporate Sports Sales Executive a marcus evans company

(Barcelona /Madrid/ Brazil)

Do you want to attend the Brazilian World Cup? With 55 global locations, THG/SMG is the world largest organizer of Executive Sports Entertainment at more than 350 major sporting events such as London 2012, Brazil WSC 2014, Champion’s league... Due to our future openings of our Latin American Offices and and unprecedented growth in both of our Barcelona and Madrid offices, we are interviewing for Bilingual Sales Executive that will be responsible for building a client base by contacting exclusively top level decisions makers, in addition to cultivating and maintaining long term relationships with them. You may already have 1-2 years experience in business-to-business sales or are looking for your first corporate role following graduation. Either way we can assure you the very best in training and development that will give you fast track promotion and unlimited earnings within the first 12 months as well as overseas posting.

You must possess:

Our commitment to you:

► A burning desire to work within sales. ► A strong determination to succeed. ► An ability to work both on your own and within a team. ► The drive to work beyond the traditional 9-5 in a challenging role. ► Fluency in English while other lenguage are a plus

► The opportunity to work for a fast pace, inspiring company ► Interesting career opportunities within our 55 worldwide offices ► Continual internal training and development. ► Unlimited earning opportunities (OTE 40k-80K)

Please send a covering letter and C.V in English to alexp@thguk.com and mention ref/Metro

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6/23/11 1:20:45 PM


54 EMPLOYMENT

Are you experienced with the AMADEUS reservation system? If so, we have fantastic opportunities to work in our bustling Barcelona European Hub Center. American Express Barceló Viajes is a travel management company that is looking for talented people with multiple language skills. In particular we are looking for travel professionals who are native and/or fluent in German, English, French and Spanish.

Interested in becoming part of our team? Please send your CV to

recruitmentbcn@amexbarcelo.com We are looking for: • Native speakers in English, German, French (fluent in English for the German and French candidates) • Knowledge and experience in AMADEUS Travel reservation system is a MUST • Previous experience in Customer Service roles • Excellent communication and customer relations skills • Previous experience in travel related services. • Microsoft office knowledge • Flexibility to work in rotating shifts

We offer a job as a travel consultant. In this role you will: • Make travel arrangements for customers that are traveling on business and are looking for advice and support. • Join a multicultural team that embraces and integrates diversity. • Work in a comfortable and modern work environment • Have a competitive salary • Have a permanent contract immediately with 2 months probation period.

To advertise in our job directory call:

93 451 4486 email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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6/23/11 1:20:48 PM


EMPLOYMENT 55

How to write a Spanish CV If you’re applying for a job in Barcelona, make sure you know what has to be included (and left out) on a Spanish CV. - Include an up-to-date photograph. - In Datos Personales (Personal Information) include name, date of birth, DNI/passport number and your marital status. - Your Formación (Education) can be quite simple. You should include all educational institutions you have attended and any additional diplomas or degrees. Computer skills may also be important, depending on the job, and are worthwhile including. - Idiomas (Languages) are extremely important. All languages you speak, and your levels of proficiency should be included in the CV. - Experiencia Profesional (Employment History) is evidently an important part of your CV. When listing the various companies for which you have worked, include dates, but also job title, tasks and specialisation. Any additional skills or achievements relevant to the desired position should also be mentioned at the end of your CV. - When sending a CV in Castilian, be sure to have it thoroughly proofread by a native speaker, so as to avoid any embarrassing mistakes, either in language or grammar. A Spanish CV would initially impress, but any basic errors will take away from your application.

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6/23/11 1:20:49 PM


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The launch of the exciting new company, FreeSpeech, allows lower call costs from your mobile in Spain to a list of destinations worldwide. You can now make high quality international phone calls at the same rate as national ones. Depending on your arranged tariff, this could mean ringing home for free. Join FreeSpeech and remember you will never pay more than a local Spanish mobile phone call.

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:The solution to expensive overseas calls, at the same price of a local call.

fullpage_JUNE2011.indd 1 main pages - June 11 .indd 7

5/9/11 2:28:32 PM 5/18/11 2:39:24 PM


Find your nearest distribution point Your free magazine in English Eixample (left)

Born

Ciutat Vella

Club Escandinavo - Gran Vía 541 Toscano Antico - Aribau 167 Scobies Bar - Ronda Universitat 8 Altaïr - Gran Vía 616 The Philharmonic - Mallorca 204 Floridablanca Renoir - Floridablanca 135 Belchica - Villarroel 60 Come In - Balmes 129 bis A Taste of Home - Floridablanca 78 Amaltea - Diputació 164 (Urgell) Punto Información Juvenil - Calabria 147 La Trajinera Restaurant - Gran Vía 459 7 Sins lounge bar - Muntaner 7 VOS Bar - Pl. Cardona 4 Om India - Floridablanca 130

BCN Internet Café - Barra de Ferro 3 La Taverna del Born - Pg. del Born 27-29 Café del Convento - Pl. Academia y Tarantanna Vintage Bar - Fusina 7 Sandwich & Friends - Pg. del Born 27 Barroc Café - Rec 67 Arena Bar - Carassa 4 Anthony Llobet - Carders 34 Bar del Pla - Montcada 2 La Fianna - Banys Vells 15 Black Horse - Av. Allada-Vermell 16 Rosa Negra -Via Laietana 46 Nakupenda - Av. Marquès de l’Argentera 7-9 bxs Princesa 23 - Princesa 23 Mujer - Carders 28 Wushu Restaurant & Bar - Av. Marqués de l’Argentera 1 Café del Born Nou - Pl. Comercial 10 La Bodegueta del Parc - Pg. Pujades 21 Dans le Noir - Pg. Picasso 10 McCarthy’s - Via Laietana 40 La Bàscula - Flassaders 30 The Palace Bar - Vigatans 13 Paddy’s Lane - Pla del Palau 9 Incógnito – Fusina 6

Flaherty’s - Pl. Joaquin Xirau, s/n Hard Rock Cafe - Pl. Catalunya 2 Palau de la Virreina - Rambla 99 Bar del Pi - Pl. St. Josep Oriol 1 Glacier - Pl. Reial 3 Ryans - Ample 28 Milk Bar Bistro - Gignás 21 Margarita Blue - Josep Anselm Clavé 6 Vegetalia - Escudellers 54 Anthony Llobet Hair Salon - Avinyó 34 My Bar - Ferran 8 Temple Bar - Ferran 6 Molly’s Fair City - Ferran 7 Hook - Ample 35 Depeche BCN - Cervantes 2 O’Hara’s - Ferran 23 Schilling - Ferran 18 Gràcia Arts Project - Sant Honorat 11 Café de l‘Opera - La Rambla 74 Bliss - de la Dagueria Patronat de Turisme - Pl. Catalunya 17

Eixample (right) Michael Collins - Pl. Sagrada Família 4 George and Dragon - Diputació 269 BCN Books - Roger de Llúria 118 Café Laie - Pau Claris 85 Dow Jones - Bruc 97 bxs (Valencia) Caffe D’Arts - Bruc 118 bxs (Valencia) Bar Amsterdam - Aragó 305 (Llúria) Anthony Llobet Hair Salon - Corsega 364 Cine Casablanca - Pg. de Gràcia 115 Palau Robert - Pg. de Gràcia 107 Obama - Gran Vía 603 Republic House - Pg. Sant Joan 74 The George Payne - Pl. Urquinaona 5

Gràcia Sol-Soler - Pl. del Sol 21-22 Bristol Blue - Torrent de l’Olla 39-41 Café del Sol - Pl. del Sol 16 Hibernian Books - Montseny 17 Cine Verdi Park - Torrijos 49 Cine Verdi - Verdi 32 Farmacia Serra Mandri - Diagonal 478 Ciber Virreina - Astúries 78 Enoteca d’Italia - Santa Magdalena 17 Himali - Milá i Fontanals 60-68 The City Arms - Pl. Narcis Oller 9 Anthony Llobet - Sant Joaquim 28-30

JANUARY 2011 | Nº 168 | FREE

DECEMBER 2010 | Nº 167 | FREE

Raval The Quiet Man - Marqués de Barbará 11 London Bar - Nou de la Rambla 34 The Queen Vic - Nou de la Rambla 24 Kasparo - Pl. Vicenç Martorell The Shamrock - Tallers 72 Bar Raval - Hospital 104 Mama Café - Doctor Dou 10 Wild Turkey Tavern - Hospital 4 Rosa del Raval - dels Àngels 6 Plástico Bar - San Ramon 23 Anthony Llobet - Sant Pau 22 Fish and Chips - Rbla del Raval 26

Flann O’Brien - Casanova 264 Fabulous Baking Co - Bisbe Sivilla 48 Central Café Calvet - Calvet 1-3 European University - Ganduxer 70

Vila Olimpics Kennedy Irish Pub - Moll de Mestral 27 Australian’s Club - Moll de Mestral 40-41 George’s - Centro Com. Icaria Rembrandt - Marina (Icaria)

Poble Nou Nice Spice - Pujades 207 Hemisferio Café Bar - Ramon Turró 204

Les Corts Cines Renoir - Eugeni d’Ors 12 Kitty O’Shea’s - Nau Santa Maria 5-7

Barceloneta The Fastnet - Pg. Joan de Borbó 22 Foc - Pg. Joan de Borbó 66

OCTOBER 2010 | Nº 165 | FREE

NOVEMBER 2010 | Nº 166 | FREE

ART EXPOSED

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE THE USE OF ALTERNATIVE AND COMPLEMENTARY THERAPIES

Sarrià Sant Gervasi

AUGUST 2010 | Nº 163 | Free

JULY 2010 | Nº 162 | Free

BODY TALK

THE CITY’S PUBLIC ART AND WHERE TO FIND IT

Pessebres

THE CRAFT BEHIND THE TRADITION

LAPORTA

Sunday trading

FROM BARÇA TO POLITICS

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58 BACK PAGE

The political cycle

T

hey clank, the tyres are flat, the brakes squeal; when you most need one, they’ve all gone; when you most need to return one, they’re all there; and when you’re trying to cross the road, they’re all over you. Everyone likes bitching about Bicing. But at least we’ve got them. Paris has them, but they’re more chic. Quelle surprise. London has them, but they’re more thick-set and aggressive. Want to make something of it? Zaragoza has them. Salamanca has them. Even hilly, cobbled Segovia has them. They’re all over Spain. Except Madrid. Madrid with its wide boulevards, its single hill, its scattering of dispersed but ample parks, doesn’t have public bikes. The public transport revolution of the 21st century seems to have pedalled gracefully by. In its place, Madrid has a proud line of political denial: no one cycles in Madrid; Madrid isn’t an appropriate place for bikes; there are no cyclists in Spain, etc. The recently-opened Madrid Rio park is a fine illustration of this misguided attitude. Ironically, the park stands above the newly-tunnelled ring road to the south of the centre, so the concept of fluid transport can’t have been entirely absent during the planning process. But rather than provide the new park with dedicated cycle lanes, bicycles and pedestrians have to share lanes that are barely wide enough for one or the other, let alone both. Realising this oversight, the

HOROSCOPE

authorities have come up with a solution: limit cyclists to six kilometres per hour. Walking pace. Or, approximately the slowest you can travel on a bicycle without actually falling off. Of course, a draconian speed limit requires vigilant policing, so bicycle patrols circle the park. Now that’s a low-speed chase that might be worth watching. Cyclists in the Spanish capital might think that politicians just don’t get cycling. But they don’t get any form of transport except official limos. In March, the regional government councillor for transport stood up in the Assembly to score a few points off his opposition counterpart, who had rashly mentioned Madrid’s multi-journey metro and bus ticket, called, rather imaginatively, the metrobus. Like Barcelona’s T-10, it is valid for 10 trips, costs €9.30 and used for over 230 million journeys each year. “The metrobus doesn’t exist,” he declared, laughing at his opponent’s foolishness with all the certainty of a modern-day Don Quixote. He might as well have declared that water doesn’t exist. Or windmills. He should just have stood up and announced “I am desperately out of touch with the electorate.” Alas, the metrobus does exist, though it’s struggling, and represents a saving of only seven cents against the price of a single ticket, which is, neatly, a seven percent discount. This might sound reasonable, but not compared to Barcelona’s

generous 46 percent. And not if you add the cost of replacing a lost ticket. Disconcertingly small, they are remarkably easy to mislay, and you only have to lose one in the course of 132 single journeys to annul the miniscule saving (though that number goes down with every journey you’ve already made on the lost ticket). Politicians are clearly reluctant to use public transport. But who isn’t? Does anyone wake up in the morning and think “Great! The metro! Hot, crowded carriages, other people’s odours and an outside chance of pickpockets! Can’t wait!” If so, they’re difficult to spot. Sitting on the metro— even on a glam new, air-conditioned line, let alone the stinking dustcarts of some of the older ones—is always going to be less fun than sitting in your official limo. So, politicians should be forced onto public transport, and not just to save money. It would expose them to the Great Unwashed. Literally, in many cases, especially at the end of the day as weary builders make their dusty way home, and hitherto fragrant office workers start to wilt. But where better to hear the views of the people? At least then they would be properly acquainted with the price of multi-journey tickets. And it would have the knock-on effect of making bicycle schemes look more attractive. They might even do something about the clanking.

by Nuria Picola

--Roger de Flower

www.nuriapicola.com

Aries This is a good time to start perfecting your social skills. Take into account other people’s perspective even if your way of doing things seems best. Take care of the family.

Taurus It’s time to reassert

Gemini You may have an unexpected expense, a sudden repair, something that you hadn’t planned for. Maybe think about your insurance; you have to adapt to reality now.

Cancer Congratulations! You should take action to control your finances, you might receive unexpected profits. The image you give others is important; try to dress more elegantly.

Leo This month, your happiness depends on you and you must live with what you create. It’s a good time to review last year and learn from successes and failures, and correct mistakes.

Virgo Your friendships are put

Libra You should watch your health, it could be delicate. Let yourself be guided by your intuition in health and therapies. It’s a good idea to reduce your activities as much as you can.

Scorpio You may be fine but the people around you might not be. There could be organisational upsets in a work matter. Your beliefs are put to the test and you replace them with new ones.

Sagittarius It seems that recent

Capricorn Take things calmly

Aquarius There may be changes at work or in your job conditions. This could be positive in the long run but gives you a scare now. Your health is slightly delicate.

Pisces You might have problems with one of your children, if you have them. Seek a second opinion for any health issues. If you have a holiday planned, postpone it for another time.

changes haven’t yet finished, while your partner may have financial problems. Take more care when driving and avoid high-risk activities.

yourself in communication and your intellectual interests. Study subjects that interest you, attend or take part in discussions, write about them.

to the test. A parental figure might see important financial changes. Luckily your health is much better than in June. You project an aura of mystery.

and reduce your activities. Your love life may be put to the test—issues that hadn’t seen the light now emerge. Carry out a detox diet.

scoop By Ben Rowdon

58 Back page PDF.indd 90

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main pages - July 11 .indd 7

6/20/11 2:40:24 PM

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Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 174  

Barcelona Metropolitan is produced by Creative Media Group S.L. Creative Media Group was established to help English-speaking foreigners liv...

Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 174  

Barcelona Metropolitan is produced by Creative Media Group S.L. Creative Media Group was established to help English-speaking foreigners liv...

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