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Monday to Thursday 12pm-12am Friday and Saturday 12pm-2am Closed Sunday


Diputació 223, 08011, Barcelona Reservations T. 93 408 91 62

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METROPOLITAN contributors


reGuLars 06 08 10 29 34 36 49 50

New in Town In the City A Place of My Own Fashion Travel Food & Drink Coaching Column Interview

WHat’s ON 20 22 24 26

Music Art Misc. Pullout Calendar

DIreCtOrIes 41 43 44 49

Food & Drink Health & Beauty Business Jobs

ANNABEL WARLEY Currently completing a degree in Graphic Design at the University of Leeds, Bella has been working for Barcelona Metropolitan as a design intern for her Erasmus year. She has particularly enjoyed getting to see many different aspects of the city through her camera lens, something that her job facilitates. She plans to live in the city until May next year and acquire as much design experience as she can.

CATHERINE HOWLEY Native of Galway, Catherine studied History of Art and Architecture and Hispanic Studies in Trinity College Dublin. She came to Spain in 2007 and spent over a year in Granada studying Spanish history, literature and Islamic art and architecture. In 2011 she moved to Barcelona where she completed a post-grad in Museum Studies at the Pompeu Fabra University. She has a deep interest in the social history of Spain and now works as a guide specialising in the Civil War and preCivil War period of history in the city.

Features 12 rePOrt: 20 Years OF MetrOPOLItaN. 18 a NeW raVaL Le Corbusier’s radical plan for the Raval that never came to fruition. 30 FINDING tHeIr VOICe The Rambla’s statues are speaking out against new regulations. 33 MaDe IN BarCeLONa Forget the high street and buy from the city’s own makers and designers. 34 COOKING sCHOOLs From traditional recipes to haute cuisine, it´s time to hone your culinary skills.

Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Consulting Editor Esther Jones Editor Carol Moran Assistant Editor Rachel Huffman Art Director Aisling Quigley Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell Sales Assistants Jairo Rieder, Sarah Yaagoub Editorial Assistants Aminah Barnes, Sally Hargrave, Priyankaa Joshi, Jessica Williams Design Assistant Annabel Warley Contributors Rosie Bond, Eimear Corrigan, Catherine Howley, Miquel Hudin, Melissa Leighty, Sam Mednick, Elena Smith, Tori Sparks, Tara Stevens, Sam Zucker Photographers Yan Pekar, Annabel Warley Illustrator Ben Rowdon Carrer Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486 Editorial: Advertising: General: The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96

JESSICA WILLIAMS Originally from London, Jessica is studying English Literature and Spanish at the University of Exeter and is currently on her year abroad travelling around Spain, getting to know the people and perfecting the language. She first fell in love with Barcelona as a child, visiting her grandparents on holidays to the Costa Brava. Whilst working as an Editorial Assistant at Metropolitan, Jessica has loved getting to know the city and enjoys wandering along its wide promenades early in the morning, in search of the perfect café con leche.


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CLUB ICH BIN. GIRONA 46. From Hatha to Vinyasa, and Rocket to Ashtanga, Club Ich Bin believes in finding the style that works best for you. Classes here start as early as 7.30am to accommodate work schedules, and a variety of different membership packages are available to ensure yoga can be fitted into any lifestyle. German owner Norbert Schueler dreamed of creating a studio that reinforces individuality, part of the reason behind the name ‘Ich Bin’ (I Am). He insists, “People should be who they want to be. No one is the same, from routine to fitness level to preference, which is why we try to offer something for everyone.” Beyond yoga, the studio also has a range of therapies and classes, such as reflexology, reiki, arabic dance, CrossFit, Zumba and tai chi, along with a sauna, kitchen and terrace for club members to use at any time. Since opening its doors in June of this year, the studio has seen a range of yogis, from busy workers catching a class during their lunch hour, to tourists staying upstairs in Schueler’s 12-room guesthouse, the quirky Eddy Rooms.


LOCK-CLOCK. PASSATGE DEL PATRIARCA 4. Barcelona’s latest escape room is a real crowd-pleaser. Three different rooms require ‘captives’ to use logic to solve a series of clues in order to unlock the door in time. LockClock highlights local culture in the form of a Gaudí-themed adventure, and pirates in the swashbuckling Aztec Treasure room. The third creation, due to be completed some time in December, plays on excitement of a different kind: it’s the morning after a wild night and participants must fight their way through a hangover and hazy memory to flee before the cops come knocking. Visitors are invited to have a drink in the open-plan reception area before or after their quest, and Lock-Clock regularly holds events such as beer tastings and cinema nights for evenings when you’re feeling a little less adventurous.


REVIVAL. TRAVESSERA DE GRÀCIA 38-40. Neon lights, wicker furniture and a retro bar. You half expect Tom Cruise to emerge, flipping bottles end over end, and serving up flashy cocktails. Revival’s Catalan owner Edgar opened his place at the end of July as the reincarnation of his mother’s bar of the same name, which stood in the same spot over 25 years ago. “When I was 16, I worked as a bartender at my mother’s bar,” Edgar explained. “Revival was inspired by that decor and theme, but has a modern twist.” The space is comprised of three levels, with a marble bar and seating area on the ground floor, comfortable sofas, a TV and a pool table on the second floor, and a secret hideaway in the basement, with intimate booths and dim lighting for an ultra-private rendezvous. Revival also puts a modern spin on their cocktails, such as their Revival Sour, Revival Aperol Hibiscus, and customer favourite, Strawberry Cheesecake, all made with fresh ingredients, alongside finger foods and ecological hamburgers.


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The most festive season is here, so get into the spirit by taking a wander through some of Barcelona’s best Christmas markets.

Fira de Santa Llúcia This year will mark the 230th edition of the Fira de Santa Llúcia, Barcelona’s biggest and oldest Christmas market. Surrounded by sparkling lights in the heart of the Gothic quarter, colourful stands are grouped by different crafts. Look out for the handmade wooden pessebres.

Fira de Nadal a la Sagrada Família The Fira de Nadal was originally created in 1962 to cope with overcrowding of the Santa Llúcia market. However, over the years this bustling market outside the Sagrada Família has earned its own reputation for selling handmade Christmas gifts and traditional Catalan delicacies.

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EL MAMA Y LA PAPA. PASSATGE DE PERE CALDERS 2. The newest opening in the booming Sant Antoni district is all about duality—innovative food and drinks served up with live performances. It makes sense then that the owners chose an old anchovy factory as their venue, with plenty of open space and high ceilings from which their inhouse acrobat can suspend. And while actors, singers and circus acts entertain guests, the chefs and barmen put on a show of their own in the kitchen. Described as a ‘tour-du-monde’ by head chef Alvaro Garces, El Mama y La Papa produces international cuisine adapted with Spanish ingredients, including braised octopus with causa limeña, a Peruvian dish with yellow potatoes. The drinks list is just as creative, featuring cocktails like the Nubes de Lichi martini, which comes adorned with a miniature cone of candyfloss, and the Margarita del Diablo that uses chilli-flavoured tequila to pack a punch.

Fira de Reis de la Gran Via Immerse yourself in local traditions and the intoxicating scent of freshly-made churros at the Fira de Reis. With 168 stalls, this is the place to pick up presents and stocking fillers for the kids.

Col·lectiu d’Artesans d’Alimentació In the shadows of the church of Santa Maria del Pi, you’ll find Barcelona’s most popular Christmas food market, featuring cheeses, wines, honey, cakes and other locally-sourced delicacies.

Mercat Gòtic (Fira de Brocanters) The Mercat Gòtic runs all year round, but enjoys a festive touch at this time of the year. Just off Plaça Catalunya this eclectic mix of antiques, jewellery and unusual collectables is a great place for unique gifts or just to have some fun browsing.

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Celebrating its 50th anniversary this month, La Taverneta is a firm favourite among locals. Although just a stone’s throw from La Rambla, this traditional Catalan restaurant retains an authentic feel, serving up classic Catalan food for a reasonable price to hungry neighbours. Specialities include their homemade croquettes, meatballs and patates d’Olot. The place is now run by young entrepreneur Eva Asensio, who said, “We want our customers to enjoy highquality food prepared with love”. Come enjoy a menú del día inside the cosy space or sip a coffee on the sunny terrace.

CARRER DEL DUC CARRER DE FRANCESC PUJOLS Nestled between La Rambla and Portal de l’Àngel, this tranquil street, home to Metropolitan, features some of our favourite haunts.

THEROOM. DUC 5. Twenty years of experience as a hair stylist, and a passion for clothes motivated Catalan owner Jose Lücker to open this three-storey, multi-concept space in 2006. Combining fashion and cuts, both fresh and distinctive, is the philosophy at TheRoom. An eclectic selection of clothing and accessories occupies the ground floor, the salon with its down-to-earth vibe is on the first floor, and a large, airy space, ideal for exhibitions and parties can be found in the basement. “I think a look needs both a stylish haircut and a good outfit to be complete,” Jose said.

GOVINDA. PLAÇA DE LA VILA DE MADRID 4. The enticing smell of aromatic spices draws passers-by into this charming little restaurant, which opened its doors in 1986, as one of the pioneers of vegetarian Indian food in Barcelona. Be sure to order one of their Thali dishes, featuring a range of authentic curries and dahls, accompanied by smaller side dishes of chutneys and raita. Whether you choose to eat in or opt for takeaway, Govinda provides well-cooked food, delicate flavours and attentive service.

THE BLOCK SHOP. DUC 8. The Block Shop has made a name for itself as one of the go-to shops for street fashion in the city. In the industrial-chic space, you can find clothes, shoes and accessories by handmade labels, including their own in-house brand Block Limited, inspired by American rap and ‘Barcelona chilling’. “What makes us unique is the exclusivity of our brands,” said French owner Kevin Gironce. “We collaborate with young designers and up-and-coming artists to offer pieces that can’t be found in other shops.” Customers even have the option of bringing in their own design, logo or photo to customise an item of clothing. For those of you who like to stand out from the crowd, The Block Shop is the ideal spot to shop. www.



It’s gotten better and better—as has Barcelona Metropolitan. Here’s to the next 20 years!



As an expat, the changes—a lot more food diversity and bike lanes— have been positive for me.


I would say the society has changed a lot. Nowadays there is so much diversity. Tourism has totally revolutionised the city.


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CASA FELIX. PLAÇA DE LA VILA DE MADRID 4. This traditional haberdashery shop first opened on Carrer de la Corríbia in 1939, but relocated to its current location after buildings on the historic street were gradually demolished to create more space in the Avinguda de la Catedral. With a vast stock of modern and traditional supplies, you’ll find everything you need to sew a whole new wardrobe, from metres of fabric, ribbons and thread, to buttons, zips and tassels.

EL PINAR. DUC 7. A hidden gem among the mass of touristfilled bars in the Barri Gòtic, El Pinar is a popular meeting place among locals, with a great atmosphere at any time of the day. Enjoy your morning cortado and croissant, or devour some authentic tapas washed down with a beer or two in this laid-back, unpretentious space. Regular customer Mila, 21, from Catalunya, said she likes El Pinar for its “delicious and cheap sandwiches, relaxed atmosphere and friendly service.”

n a

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JOSÉ, 43


It has become a far more cosmopolitan city. There are so many different cultural influences and languages now— it’s fantastic.

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n 2007, after years of travelling around the world, Canadian Sam Mednick decided it was time for a change and settled on Barcelona as her new home. Sam’s work as a journalist, covering everything from humanitarian development and conflict zones, to lifestyle and travel, meant she never stayed in one place for too long. But when she stepped inside this rooftop apartment in the heart of the Gothic quarter, she fell instantly in love. “Everything about it felt right, the vibe, the decor, the architecture,” she said. “At the time, it was a work in progress, but it’s evolved nicely over the years.” Despite the amount of work and travel in her life, coming back to a cosy environment has always been important to her: “There are times when I’m out for days or weeks at a time, and when I finally get home, I just like to reconnect with my apartment for a bit.” When her girlfriend, Mariah, moved in three years ago, a hangout for one had to become a home for two. To accommodate both of them, they needed more space, especially in the kitchen and living room. Sam admits to having no real skills in the kitchen and confessed that she used to use her oven for extra storage. But when avid cook Mariah came onto the scene, that had to stop. Sam brought in cupboards to store cookware and redesigned the counters to convert the kitchen into an open-plan space. She also created a compact workstation from the mock kitchen island, with plugs conveniently


installed under the countertop, which the couple shares when they work from home. The minimalist kitchen, with its sleek black cabinets and metallic accents, is partnered perfectly with solid wooden counters and leather stools, seamlessly combining the old with the new. The exposed brick walls also add to the subtle elegance of the living space, infusing more traditional elements with a smooth glossy finish.

“We enjoy having people over, especially when it’s sunny and we can light up the barbecue. I love being around friends, so I’m happy my home can accommodate them.” The kitchen is fitted with the latest gadgets and an impressive wine fridge, a gift from Mariah to Sam. The wine theme continues onto the terrace, where Sam’s most recent addition is a huge wine barrel, which stands out against the impressive view of the city skyline. “It’s one of my favourite pieces in the house,” Sam said, although the task of getting the barrel up to the top floor with no lift proved a little tricky. Although the apartment is bathed in natural light, Sam and Mariah love to spend time outside on the terrace. Undoubtedly, the

The roof terrace where the couple spend much of their time

If you have made yourself an interesting home from home and would like to appear in our Place of My Own feature, please send an email to

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Sam has infused the apartment with her style through her choice of artwork

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spacious rooftop terrace is the apartment’s star attraction, with cascading views over the port and the Ramblas. On either side, a sleek and modern dining table and sofa provide plenty of space to host guests. “We enjoy having people over, especially when it’s sunny and we can light up the barbecue,” Sam said. “I love being around friends, so I’m happy my home can accommodate them.” To create a home that truly reflects her personality, Sam has infused her love of art into all its nooks and crannies. One particularly special piece that hangs above the couch is of two figures of great importance to her. One is Thirties comedian Will Rogers and the other is Vivien Leigh from Gone with the Wind. “To me, one shows an ability to never take things too seriously, and the other signifies strength and feistiness yet, at the same time, the capacity to be vulnerable.” The painting was done in an urban style that complements the apartment well and pops against the neutral tones of the walls. The concept of a home being your sanctuary may sound like a cliché, but for Sam and Mariah, who spend much of their time focused on their careers and travelling, their apartment is a space in which their lives intersect and can be enjoyed to the fullest.

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PORT OF CALL By Robert Southon Cruise ship passengers were forecast to grow to 450,000 by 1999. By 2015 this figure stood at 2.5 million. Currently, the main cruise ship wharf is the Moll Adosat, way out beyond Barceloneta in its own twilight zone: acres of uninspiring tarseal for loading and unloading, and fairly basic, barn-like terminal buildings. Next year, the experience of passengers will be very different: the much-heralded World Trade Centre, on the Moll de Barcelona opposite the Drassanes, will open in April, with new terminals to allow guests to disembark into a lively new centre.





Johan Cruyff is fired as head coach of Barça. EasyJet is launched and offers cheap flights to Barcelona from Luton, uK. The International Brigades are honoured in events commemorating the Spanish Civil War's 60th anniversary.

The Palau de la Música Catalana and Hospital de Sant Pau are declared uNESCO World Heritage Sites. Joan Clos takes over as Mayor of Barcelona from Pasqual Maragall. One million people rally for peace after the ETA killing of Miguel Ángel Blanco.

Catalan poet Joan Brossa dies in Barcelona at age 79. The Triangle shopping centre is inaugurated and is home to Desigual's first shop in the city. The amusement park on Montjuïc closes its doors after 30 years. The space it occupied is now where the Jardins de Joan Brossa are located.

The Auditori concert hall opens. To commemorate the centennial of FC Barcelona, the city hosts its first Champions League final between Bayern Munich and Manchester united. The Gran Teatre del Liceu, Barcelona's opera house, opens after a three-year, $120 million renovation due to a fire in 1994.


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AuGuST 2006

WAR ON TRADITION By Sean Mitchell-Henry Bullfighting in Catalunya has been a contentious issue for many years. Some months after the publication of this article, the closing of the Monumental bullring was announced. The opening of this year's bullfighting season on April 8th saw a large protest against the corrida. Hundreds of animal-rights activists crossed paths with aficionados, and there were some tense moments. Luis Corrales of Defensa de la Festa, the platform for the protection of bullfighting, recognises that the sport is not enjoying its best moment. The most likely outcome, he fears, is that it will die out.


APRIL 2001

FEBRuARy 2002





By 2001, the number of cyclists in Barcelona was growing, but the city was still far from offering them a safe passage. It now has over 200km of cycle paths, and the City Council has pledged 32 million euros to expand the network to 308km by 2018 and create more bike parking and 30km/hour traffic zones. “The increase in the number of bikers has been most spectacular in Ciutat Vella,” said Dani Millian, the owner of Cap Problema bike shop. “This is partly because there are more foreigners here and they have a different attitude toward using bikes.” About 40 percent of Dani's clients are non-Spanish.

Between 2002 and 2005, 43 new hotels were to be built in Barcelona, leading many hotel owners to fear a nasty price war and a future of empty rooms. In 2015, the city had over 63,000 hotel beds (compared to 36,574 in 2002) and an occupancy rate of 77.5 percent. New hotels are popping up like mushrooms, and the issue boils down to whether or not Barcelona has the pull to fill them with tourists. According to a study commissioned by the Gremi d'Hotels, if the 6,395 places previsioned by the government for 2005 are built, the sector will be threatened and there will be negative repercussions in occupation levels and prices per room.

Figures in 2007 indicated that 2,000 people were homeless in the city. By 2015 that number stood at 3,000, with a third of those living on the streets. Barcelona's long-lasting property boom has taken its toll. For those at the bottom of the economic pile, finding a room, let alone a flat, is increasingly difficult. Between 2001 and 2005, the average sale price of dwellings in Barcelona increased by 80 percent, while the minimum wage during this time rose by a mere 30 percent. “Many of the people who come to us are living on less than the minium wage,” said Maria Pulmes of Arrels (a charity that helps the homeless). “They have a choice. They can either have a room or eat.”





Plans are approved for a 22@ Barcelona district—an urban renewal area in Barcelona's formerly industrial area of Poblenou—and Razzmatazz opens as a result. Refurbishment of the Palau de la Música Catalana finishes. The new Rambla del Raval is inaugurated.

The first edition of Primavera Sound takes place in Poble Espanyol. Santa Maria del Pi provides shelter to immigrants who go on hunger strike against the new Ley de Extranjería. Las Arenas bullring is reborn as a new shopping centre.

The euro is introduced to replace the peseta. The CaixaForum opens its doors in the Puig i Cadalfalch's Modernist textile factory, Casaramona on Montjuïc. The city celebrates Any Gaudí commemorating 150 years since the architect's birth.

More than 7,000 people gathered at dawn on the Avinguda de la Reina Maria Cristina and shed their clothes for artist Spencer Tunick's largest work featuring a sea of nude bodies. Barcelona-born writer Manuel Vázquez Montalbán dies.


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FEBRuARy 2001

THE NEW RAVAL By Robert Southon


The Ajuntament’s Plan Especial de Reforma Integral (PERI) to regenerate the Raval included tearing down old buildings to create more open space and erect new buildings. Locals were divided on whether real change would take place. “In places like Calle Sant Ramon, they’ve put in trees and created a plaça—and the criminal elements have moved straight back in again to fill it,” says Pep Garcia, president of the Associacio de Veins del Raval. “The PERI needs to be accompanied by a lot more social and police action or it won’t achieve anything.” “When I first came I had my doubts, stepping out my door at midday and seeing junkies shooting up, but I got used to it and that situation has certainly improved too. And despite some problems, I love the cultural diversity. I’m deeply content here,” said artist Elisabet Mabres. MAy 2000

DIGITAL BARCELONA By Juliet King Barcelona’s mayor, Joan Clos, had approved plans to transform Poblenou’s abandoned factories and warehouses into spaces suitable for new technology businesses. The digital revolution began in Barcelona in 1995, and the Internet is now sweeping through the Ciudad Condal like a thunderstorm. Seventeen percent of the city’s inhabitants are now online, compared to only 9 percent in the rest of Spain. Over the next few years, the Generalitat will spend 15 billion pesetas on reforms in the barrio and aims to attract companies from the fields of information technology, communications, publishing and industrial design. How many artists and local residents will be displaced remains to be seen, but almost everyone else is excited about the plan.

Property prices in one of the city’s poorest areas had begun to soar, hiding the poverty in Barceloneta and pricing locals out of the area. “We live in a ghetto hidden behind a Copacabana image calculated to pull in the tourist trade. People pass by and see the yachts and think it’s all lovely, but not a single one of those boats belongs to the people that actually live here. Most locals can barely afford the rent, let alone luxuries like that.” - Manel Moscat, president of the Barceloneta neighbours association. MAy 2007

LA MINA: UNDER CONSTRUCTION By Nick Fogarty In 2000, La Mina’s regeneration had begun with city and EU investment. Seven years later, Metropolitan visited the neighbourhood that was built in the midSixties to replace slum housing, to see what changes had taken place. The Consorci has highlighted security, civic responsibility, infrastructure improvement and urban planning as the key areas for spending. A Consorci member stressed that improvements had been dramatic: “Before, you could see drugs being dealt and consumed in the streets. In the worst period, the Seventies and Eighties, it was a no-go area for anyone who wasn’t from la Mina. For me, there are two goals. The first is to change the image of La Mina from the inside and the second is to change the image from the outside.” Local resident Jose Creus disagreed, “More money is fine, but unless the project reduces delinquency and the drug problem, it will have served no purpose. I have lived here for 30 years and things are worse now than in the shanty town I lived in.”

JuLy 2013

A REBORN MARKET The 19th-century Born market was finally due to reopen after years of closure and building works. The initial project of transforming it into the Barcelona Provincial Library was halted when the remains of 18thcentury Barcelona were unearthed. What this means for locals, though, is still less than clear. But, given that many perceive the general approach to development of Barcelona’s centre as tourists first and residents second, those living around the market are eyeing these changes cautiously. This was echoed in a recent tour of the market for residents when one attendee asked, “Are these new rooms in the market just going to be cafes for guiris?”





The city council condemns bullfighting and is Spain's first city to come out against the centuries-old sport. The Barcelona Fòrum universal de les Cultures takes place at the Fòrum, receiving over three million visitors.

The Torre Agbar by Jean Nouvel is completed at the Plaça de les Glòries. The Museu de la Ciencia reopens its doors as the CosmoCaixa. Lionel Messi scores his first ever goal for FC Barcelona.

The Barcelona Biomedical Research Park opens in the Vila Olímpica, creating one of the largest hubs of biomedical research in southern Europe. Legislation is passed that makes the selling of birds and animals on the Ramblas illegal.

Bicing is launched and within four months it has over 84,000 users. The Mobile World Congress takes place in Barcelona for the first time. The Mercat de Sant Antoni celebrates its 125th anniversary and closes for refurbishment.


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BARCELONA’S NEW SKYLINE By Juliet King The city was preparing for the Fòrum 2004 with ambitious plans to change the skyline with nine new skyscrapers. Despite the architects’ zeal to create Barcelona’s next Sagrada Família, avant-garde architecture tends to spark controversy. Take Ricardo Bofill’s plans to construct a 178-metre luxury hotel shaped like a sail on the port. Acebillo’s (Barcelona’s chief architect) commission lopped 78 metres off the top of the building, after realising that Barceloneses don’t want an obstructed view of their port. Another controversial project is Jean Nouvel and B720’s Torre Agbar that will house the headquarters of the water company Aigues de Barcelona. The building’s height and site in the Plaça de les Glòries have led to spirited discussions. Some citizens appreciate the bullet-shaped building; others think it looks like a giant phallic symbol.

“BARCELONA’S BEST MAYOR” When Metropolitan was launched, Pasqual Maragall, the mayor who hosted the Barcelona Olympic Games, had announced his intention to step down the following year, after 14 years in office. Maragall was widely lauded for being responsible for Barcelona’s urban transformation and was muchloved by the city’s residents. On November 7th this year, the Llegat Pasqual Maragall was presented in the presence of several ex-mayors and Maragall himself. This collection of writings, audios and documents shares the exmayor’s political legacy with the city’s residents. Current mayor Ada Colau spoke of his influence on the city, calling him ‘Barcelona’s best mayor’, and many Barceloneses would agree. When he came into office in 1982, Pasqual Maragall immediately began accelerating the pace toward creating a more liveable city for its residents. He has been at it ever since. “Barcelona has become a more open city in the past 15 years. Down deep it was a friendly city, but it was always slightly shut in on itself, a little conservative. In the physical sense we have opened the city up to the sea and the Collserola. Those were essentially two places where it was prohibited to go. There was no beach and there were no mountains.” It is not unusual to encounter the mayor riding a bicycle on a Saturday afternoon (in 1996, he was fined 5,000 pesetas for riding his bike on the Ramblas, after an irate citizen summoned the police), or standing at the fringe of a crowd of people listening to an outdoor jazz performance during the Mercé.





The AVE rail link finally connects Barcelona and Madrid. The World Conservation Congress ends in Barcelona. The meeting was awash in gloomy forecasts. Vicky Cristina Barcelona comes out.

U2 starts their 360° Tour at Camp Nou. The W hotel opens. A new study reveals the air in Barcelona is laced with at least five drugs, including trace amounts of amphetamines, opiates, cannabinoids and lysergic acid.

The Sagrada Família temple is consecrated as a place of worship by Pope Benedict XVI. San Francisco welcomes Barcelona as its newest sister city. Line 10 of the metro opens.

A new law tightens anti-smoking restrictions introduced in 2006. The ban—one of the strictest in Europe—outlaws smoking in all bars and restaurants. Plaça George Orwell in Ciutat Vella undergoes a much-needed facelift.


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PUT IT OUT By Susy Taylor and Richard Schweid


On January 1, 2006, the new anti-smoking law came into effect. Initially, smoking was still allowed in restaurants and bars in designated spaces. Xavier Pastó owns a small bar on Carrer Enric Granados. As his place is less than 100 square metres, he is allowed to choose whether to let people smoke or not. He felt he had no choice but to delcare his a 'smoking bar'. “Some people think the Generalitat may go on to ban smoking in all public places, including bars like this one.”

WEDDING VOWS By Alexander McSpadden In 2005 Zapatero's government introduced legislation to allow same sex marriage. The simplicity of the new marriage law makes it an international landmark in human rights. It removes all legal distinctions between same-sex and heterosexual unions. Archbishop of Barcelona, Ricard María Carlés Gordó, compared government workers opposing the law but agreeing to carry it out to Nazis at Auschwitz who “believed they had to obey the laws of the Nazi government before their own conscience”.

JuLy 2006

TOO CIVIL? By KATI KRAuSE In January 2006, the City Coucil introduced a controversial 'ordenança del civisme' to stamp out anti-social behaviour. Even if the infraction is light, the fine is not: up to €750 can be charged for buying beer or urinating on the street. Putting stickers on street signs or practising paid-for sexual intercourse in public are considered very serious infractions warranting fines of up to €3,000. Social organisations have criticised the regulations for attempting to exclude people on the fringes of society, such as immigrants and prostitutes. January 2007

A CHANGING RAMBLA By Hannah Pennell In December 2006, the 14 stands that sold live animals and birds on the Rambla were forced to close down, as the Ajuntament under increasing pressure, finally enforced a long-standing by-law that prohibits the sale of animals this way. However, the owners were not willing to go quietly, and with the public and animal rights’ organisations weighing into the argument, the world-famous location became the stage for a passionate confrontation. The sellers argued that they have history on their side and that their creatures are not mistreated. Mónica Trias, one of the animalerias noted that the stands have been on La Rambla for over 150 years. “They started in the Rambla de Canaletes and, for the 1929 Universal Exhibition, became a fixed feature. Officially, it’s not a public way here, we’re part of the Boqueria market.”





Generalitat President Artur Mas i Gavarró leads the campaign for Catalan independence, aiming for a referendum in 2014. The Apple Store opens on Passeig de Gràcia. Thirteen new luxury hotels open in the city.

Barcelona begins charging admission to Park Güell. Els Encants market moves into its new building. 170-year-old Jugueteria Monforte in Plaça Sant Josep Oriol closes down, following the steps of many of the city´s oldest and most emblematic businesses.

The Generalitat fines Airbnb €30,000 for infringement of local tourism laws. Okupas of 17-year-old squat Can Vies in Sants are evicted. The first Palo Alto market is held.

The Museu del Disseny de Barcelona on the Plaça de les Glòries opens. Ada Colau of Barcelona en Comú becomes Barcelona´s first female mayor. Barcelona is named Global Smart City of 2015.


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Thinking about 4 more years in Barcelona?

You still have to file your taxes.


Tel. 678 687 105 | |

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n the 1930s, Swiss architect Le Corbusier was invited to Barcelona to give his opinion on the Raval. The neighbourhood was poor, physically and morally degraded, and saturated with people. To Le Corbusier the verdict was clear: the Raval must be demolished. Le Corbusier had been beckoned to the city at the dawn of great political change. The Second Spanish Republic had been declared in 1931, followed by the formation of the Catalan Republican government, the Generalitat. Along with the new political environment came ambitious aspirations for Barcelona and a desire to improve and renew the city. The changes proposed began under the direction of Fransesc Macià, then president of the Generalitat, but were driven by a group of architects named GATCPAC (Catalan Artist and Technician Group for the Progress of Contemporary Architecture). The leading figure of GATCPAC, Josep Sert, had studied under Le Corbusier in the 1920s and was eager to draw up a plan for Barcelona following his former master’s ideas of a modern city; one focused on controlling its growth and hygiene. The plan that would materialise would be drawn up with Le Corbusier’s guidance and include four major focus points. Amongst the changes to be made, the proposal to eradicate the neighbourhood of the Raval was the most radical of them all. The Raval had gotten a name for itself as the most unruly neighbourhood in Barcelona, synonymous with working class identity and struggle. It had become home to the first factories of the Industrial Revolution and so was the first area in Spain to inhabit the steadily growing working class population. Characterised by the same narrow medieval streets of the

Gothic quarter, the streets of the Raval had been forced to make space for the construction of smoke-bellowing factories and tenement blocks. Although the removal of the medieval wall, which surrounded the old city until 1859, started the rapid development of the city beyond its original parameters, urban planner Ildefons Cerdà’s dream of Barcelona as an expanded, interclass living space did not become a reality. Instead, by the end of the 19th century the bourgeoisie had packed up and headed eastwards to the Eixample, leaving the Raval to become home to a bluecollar community with a density 10 times that of the average European city at the time.

Amongst the changes to be made to the city, the proposal to eradicate the neighbourhood of the Raval was the most radical of them all. But it wasn’t just overcrowding. The long working hours, miserable pay and abysmal living conditions led to increasing frustration among the inhabitants of the Raval. It was these frustrations that would shape the history of this district in the form of protests, uprisings, barricade building, violence and union organisation right up until the 1930s. Those small, winding streets, devoid of light and clean air, which stifled their inhabitants,


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became a hotbed for the politicisation of the working class, namely under the banner of revolution, and more specifically, anarchism. By the 1920s, the Raval had become baptised as ‘Chinatown’—not because of a sudden influx of Chinese immigration, but for its dense population, slum-like living conditions and its reputation for being the underbelly of the city. It was labels like this, coupled with the revolutionary fervour rising from the neighbourhood, which caused political concern over the future of the barrio and its inhabitants.

Demolishing the birthplace of Barcelona’s working class implied eliminating its historical and symbolic spaces. With Le Corbusier’s proclamation in mind: “Architecture or revolution. The Revolution can be avoided”, the Raval became a focal point for the proposed changes to the city. The neighbourhood was to be sanitised, order restored, and the revolutionary air of its streets eliminated. The plans for Barcelona by Le Corbusier and GATCPAC were drawn up by 1932, and would receive the title of ‘Nova Barcelona’ or the ‘Plan Macià’, the latter named by Le Corbusier who was a great admirer of the first president of the Generalitat. In 1934, the first exhibition of the Plan Macià took place in a subterranean space in Plaça Catalunya. It outlined four major lines of intervention and development. These included the classification of the city into ‘zones’, including housing, trade, industry, and leisure; the immediate halt of growth in the Eixample area and the determining of a new layout, better designed to meet the needs of the city; the continuation of the Gran Via to the coastal area of Castelldefels, where the construction of a ‘City of Leisure and Holidays’ was to take place; and

the sanitisation of the Old City. The sanitisation of the Old City included both the Gothic and Raval areas, but in the case of the former, special attention was given to preserve its sites of historical interest. Under the premise that ‘the revolution can be avoided’, the plan outlined the reorganisation of the Raval via a system of linear streets and major thoroughfares. This new layout was designed to allow greater and more fluid movement of goods through the area, as well as giving the neighbourhood a fresh sense of order. The new Raval would leave behind the turbulent times of barricade building, protests and proletarian uprising, and make way for easier policing and the supervised use of public space. Le Corbusier’s plan proposed that the displaced residents of the Raval be relocated to multi-storey blocks akin to the Bauhaus style of architecture in the Sant Andreu neighbourhood. The Raval would be flattened and then rebuilt in phases, with single-storey, uniform housing blocks arranged in a linear fashion, to be inhabited upon their completion. Demolishing the birthplace of Barcelona’s working class implied eliminating its historical and symbolic spaces, spaces which had shaped the history of the neighbourhood since the 1830s. Replacing the streets with major roads and uniform housing meant paving over this history and redefining the character of the Raval through order and uniformity. The plans never materialised and the revolution was not avoided. Due to the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War in 1936, the Macià plan remained on the drawing board. By 1938, Italian and German fascist planes systematically bombed Barcelona from the air, and the Raval was one of the hardest hit places. The destruction of tenement blocks across the area meant that after the war, parts of the neighbourhood were entirely reformed, such as the Plaça de Vicenç Matorell and, on a greater scale, the Avinguda de les Drassanes. Uncomfortably, it was the destruction of parts of the Raval during the Spanish Civil War that have been referred to as the first examples of sanitisation to take place in this disputed neighbourhood. The sanitisation the Plan Macià never had a chance to realise.

Charles-Édouard Jeanneret, known as Le Corbusier (1887-1965)


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MUSIC CONCERT LISTINGS 1st. Caravan Palace Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 1st. Peaches Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 2nd. Just For Funk Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8. 3rd. Jain Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 3rd. Liam Cloud Sidecar. Plaça Reial 7. 4th. Miguel Poveda Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59. 7th. Crystal Fighters Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 10th. Crystal Castles Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 13th. The Damned Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 14th. Enric Montefusco Casino l’Aliança del Poblenou. Rambla del Poblenou 42.


CRYSTAL CASTLES. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. DECEMBER 10TH. Famed for their experimental electronic sound, Crystal Castles are back, touring to promote their latest album, Amnesty (I) (2016). This is the group’s first album release since the controversial departure of Alice Glass in 2014, after a dispute over musical differences. Although Ethan Kath has been the principal songwriter and producer since the beginning, Glass’s energetic, punk-like stage presence gave the group an extra edge, making her a hard act to follow. Now replaced by Edith Frances, the new album has come under heavy criticism, and was deemed a ‘missed opportunity’ by Pitchfork, who felt the new duo could have done a lot more. But it’s a fairly safe album overall, and fans will be content with songs like ‘Char’ that hark back to the Glass era, capturing Crystal Castles’ signature electronic-pop sound with a dark edge. With a setlist that is rumoured to include new material, along with a few old classics such as ‘Crimewave’ thrown in for good measure, Saturday night at Apolo is set to be a banger.

14th. Carlos Rivera BARTS. Paral·lel 62. 14th. Antílopez El Molino. Vila i Vilà 99. 16th. Kevin Saunderson Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 21st. Núria Graham El Molino. Vila i Vilà 99. 21st. Black Heritage Choir Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 21st. Mellow Mood Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 27th. Ara Malikian Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 28th. Paco Ibáñez Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 30th. El Drogas Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 30th. Carlos Núñez Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.


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OCEAN COLOUR SCENE. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. DECEMBER 1ST. The Nineties were a unique time for music in Britain. Groups like Oasis, Suede and Blur dominated the scene, keeping Britpop alive and kicking, and bands were popping up out of every town, city, suburb and council estate in the country. Birmingham was no exception, producing one of the finest bands of the decade, Ocean Colour Scene. Twenty-three years later, the Moseley crew are still going strong. Their current tour celebrates the 20th anniversary of their world-famous album, Moseley Shoals (1996), and December will see the Brummie lads play dates in the UK, Ireland and Spain, bringing fans more than a few blasts from the past.


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KEVIN SAUNDERSON. RAZZMATAZZ. PAMPLONA 88. DECEMBER 16TH. After his appearance at Brunch Electronik last March— accompanied by his Detroit counterparts, Terrence Parker and Carl Craig—Kevin Saunderson is back in Barcelona this December, offering up another night of relentless house and techno sounds. Saunderson is well-known for his chart-topping song ‘Good Life’, which he recorded with Inner City, a group he formed with vocalist Paris Grey in 1987. Known to indulge crowds at his DJ sets with samples from his past projects, this event will be no exception. The bastion of Detroit house will be taking over The Loft at Razzmatazz, reminding revelers of the richness of Detroit’s music scene, which just seems to keep on giving.


THE BLACK HERITAGE CHOIR. PALAU DE LA MÚSICA. PALAU DE LA MÚSICA 4-6. DECEMBER 21ST. As part of the Voll-Damm International Jazz Festival, this renowned choir will be filling the Palau de la Música with gospel. Chosen from a group of 400 singers from the state of Mississippi, the 16-person choir presents the finest gospel by way of music from the queen of soul, Aretha Franklin. Directed by Jerry Calvin Smith, the choir will pay tribute to Franklin and her timeless work, allowing spectators to relive classics such as ‘Mary, Don’t You Weep’ and ‘Precious Memories’ in their unique gospel style. Created in 1994, the choir tours regularly to share their mix of gospel, R&B and pop with audiences all over the globe.


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ART LAST CHANCE CCCB The Thinking Machine This exhibition explores the impact of controversial 13th century philosopher Ramon Llull on arts, science, literature and technology, and the way in which knowledge is shared with others. Until December 11th. Montalegre 5.

FUNDACIÓ FOTO COLECTANIA Yo quería ser fotógrafo Co-produced by Banco Sabadell, this exhibition, showcasing 11 projects by various artists, invites viewers to question what it means to be a photographer today. Until Dec 10th. Julián Romea 6.

MUTUO GALERÍA A la sombra del Lobo This fascinating installation by Ruth Soria based on the well-known Aesop’s fable ‘The Wolf and the Lamb’ provides a strong social commentary on human nature. Until Dec 23rd. Méndez Núñez 7.

ANA MAS PROJECTS Restoration This exhibition, consisting of two installations by Brazilian artist Laercio Redondo, explores the (de)formation, construction and evolution of Brazil’s collective memory and identity. Until Dec 9th. Isaac Peral 7.


BARCELONA INTERNATIONAL ART FAIR. MUSEU MARÍTIM. AVINGUDA DE LES DRASSANES. DECEMBER 16TH-17TH. Following the success of Global Art Agency’s previous events, the Barcelona International Art Fair is back at the Maritime Museum for its much-anticipated fifth edition. With over a hundred contemporary exhibitors from more than 30 countries across the globe, it will showcase an exciting selection of fine art including paintings, photographs, sculptures, innovative limited editions and quirky installations. Both leading international artists and emerging young stars will have the chance to present their work to collectors, curators, media and art enthusiasts. The International Art Fair will also host the Global Art Awards, judged by a panel of top industry professionals, including renowned Catalan artist Robert Llimós and winner of the Rotterdam International Art Fair, Zak Van Biljon.

GALERIA 3 PUNTS Venus Zoo In his latest exhibition, Spanish artist Okuda San Miguel proposes a retro-futuristic vision of modern society through the use of geometric structures and multicoloured prints. Until Dec 10th. Enric Granados 21.

N2 GALERÍA …Y qué viva México N2 Gallery pays tribute to renowned Mexican sculptor Javier Marín, showcasing his work representing Mexico as a driving force of contemporary art. Until Dec 30th. Enric Granados 61.

ARTS SANTA MONICA Llull-Kurokawa. In the light of ideas. This exhibition examines the parallels between the work of Ramon Llull and modern science 700 years after his death. Until Dec 4th. La Rambla 7.


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DRAP-ART’16. INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC RECYCLING FESTIVAL OF CATALONIA. CCCB. MONTALEGRE 5. DECEMBER 16TH-31ST. Founded in 1995, Drap-Art is a platform for emerging artists, designers and creative professionals to showcase thought-provoking works of art from reclaimed materials. The non-profit organisation reminds us of the dangerous effects of overconsumption, encouraging people to consume more responsibly, and highlights the importance of respecting the three Rs (reduce, reuse, recycle). The festival will be divided into eight sections to demonstrate the possibilities of creative recycling, encompassing group exhibitions, interventions in public spaces, discussion areas, workshops, traditional art and design, performances, audiovisuals and environmental cinema. Now in its 14th year, Drap-Art’16 looks to strike a balance between local, international, established and emerging artists in order to promote cooperation between countries and generations. FOR MORE ART EVENTS VISIT WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

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ART AND CINEMA. 120 YEARS OF EXCHANGES. CAIXAFORUM. FRANCESC FERRER I GUÁRDIA 6-8. DECEMBER 16TH-MARCH 27TH. In collaboration with the French film organisation La Cinémathèque Français, Obra Social ‘la Caixa’ presents its latest exhibition which explores the long and complex relationship between cinema and the visual arts. Based on La Cinémathèque Français’s 20th-century collection, it examines the way in which film is inspired by the visual arts and reciprocally, how cinema has influenced art. This engaging exhibition includes over 300 pieces by 150 artists and filmmakers, to highlight the discourse between the artistic avant-garde in both disciplines since cinema’s earliest years. There will also be a series of screenings of excerpts from more than 60 films and documentaries, as well as a selection of posters, models and costumes on display. From surrealism and expressionism to the emergence of film in colour and the introduction of audio, the exhibition aims to illustrate the way in which the two disciplines are inextricably linked.


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DIADA DE LA RUMBA. FÀBRICA FABRA I COATS. DECEMBER 4TH. A great opportunity to immerse yourself in this distinct style of dance, Diada de la Rumba is a celebration of rumba, dance and music. For one day only, enjoy fast-paced, passionate performances and plenty of delicious food. Some of Spain’s biggest rumba music artists will be in attendance for the eighth edition of the party—performers include Peret Reyes, Morostio, La República Rumbera, Bananna Beach and many more kings of rumba. Instructors will also be on hand to help you master the style, and an area with cartoons, activities and a whole section of chocolate will keep youngsters entertained. Find your own rhythm and show off your skills later on at the Noy disco.


BARCELONA HAYRIDE. LA SALA CASPA. EL PRAT DE LLOBREGAT. DECEMBER 10TH. Barcelona Hayride returns to the city this month to celebrate the sounds and rhythms of the Fifties and Sixties with a unique lineup. Musical acts range from traditional country to blues, and soothing soul to rock and roll. The lineup will include The Fuzzilis with Spencer Evoy, one of Spain’s most popular rock and roll bands, who pride themselves on getting people moving with their authentic sound. Esther y Los Twangs—considered the kings of rock and roll and garage fusion, and a firm favourite among Hayride veterans—will perform, along with the legendary Uncle Charlie with Los Brioles. The latter are two bands who often come together with the shared aim of reviving the original sound of Fifties rock and roll. The event will be run by Shake-A-Round deejays to make sure the party lasts all night long.


GOSPEL FESTIVAL. BARCELONA CITY. DECEMBER 2ND-28TH. Trade in this month’s typical Christmas carols for a night of gospel. This year will mark the ninth edition of the Gospel Festival, initially part of the International Jazz Festival, with individuals and choirs from around the world coming together for a tour of Catalan cities and towns. A growing interest in gospel music in Barcelona means that the festival, organised by The Project, spans three weeks this year, with performances popping up at different theatres and churches all over the city. The Soweto Gospel Choir, one of the best-known groups of the event, will perform at L’Auditori. Jump on the bandwagon and let the dominant vocals and calming rhythms grace your ears for as many nights as you please. www.


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CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL. FIRA DE BARCELONA. DECEMBER 27TH-JANUARY 4TH. Barcelona’s Children’s Festival returns for its 50th edition this December with fun activities and shows for the family. The festival is divided into seven different areas, from face painting and musical performances, to workshops, sports and contests. This year the Children’s Festival will also present ‘A Day with Peppa’, giving younger kids the chance to meet Peppa Pig herself. The event aims to promote healthy lifestyles for children. Nutritious meals will be available, and conferences on good eating and exercise habits will be held for both children and parents. Sport is central to the ethos of the event and in previous years, there have been special guest appearances by Olympians and players from FC Barcelona to inspire children to lead active lives. The festival is spread across nine days, including New Year’s Day. If the kids are feeling the post-Christmas blues, this is the perfect place to spend quality time all together. www.


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OSO WINTERFEST. POBLE ESPANYOL. DECEMBER 3RD-4TH. Christmas comes early this year with Poble Espanyol’s Oso Winterfest. The Monastery of Sant Miquel will undergo a magical makeover, and you’ll surely get in a jolly mood with the festival’s four live music acts each day and surprise artists performing popular Christmas jams at the Santa Stage. You can also catch your favourite film of the season at the cinema, which will be showing everything from Love Actually (2003) and Home Alone (1990), to the holiday classic, It’s a Wonderful Life (1946). At the enchanted Woodland Market, nose around the local designer’s stalls and pick up a gift or two for your family and friends. Food trucks from Fogons Urbans, Food Porn and Canalla Urban Food, among others, will be serving up delicious fare throughout the weekend, as well. Let the celebrations begin!

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DÍA DE LA CONSTITUCIÓN Expect most shops to stay open on this public holiday, making for some opportune Christmas shopping.

RESTORATION Brazilian artist Laercio Redondo explores the evolution of his country’s identity using two installments. Ana Mas Projects.




CRYSTAL FIGHTERS The electronic-folk group swap the English capital for Catalunya’s to celebrate the release of their latest album.



GREATEST HITS MUSIC TV The Film Symphony Orchestra perform music from classic TV shows, like Friends and Game of Thrones. 9pm. Palau de la Músi-


PEACHES The Canadian electronic musician shares her vibrant energy with Barcelona. 9pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

EL SUELO A series of watercolours and texts that illustrate ‘the floor’ as the limit in many situations. Miscelanea. Guardia 10. Until Dec 11th.

NOT THE ROLLING STONES The tribute band take on tracks such as ‘Paint it Black’ and ‘Satisfaction’ in this credible rock concert. 9pm. Palau de la Músi-


DUSKY The duo from London incorporate classical jazz with obscure electronica to create an unusual techno sound. 1am. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.


OCEAN COLOUR SCENE The British pop group from Birmingham perform classics from their album Moseley Shoals (1996) to celebrate its 20th anniversary. 9pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.




CRYSTAL CASTLES Canadian experimental-electronic group celebrate the release of their fourth album and the 10th anniversary of their music


EL CLÁSICO The rivalry continues as Camp Nou welcomes Real Madrid in a competitive battle for La Liga. 4.15pm. Camp Nou. Aristides Maillol 12.

BORN DE CANÇONS An evening of free concerts to rouse new generations of Catalan pop and jazz musicians. 8pm. Centre Cultural del Born. Pl. Comercial 12.



EL FLEA Bargain hunters! The secondhand market returns with plenty of bargains. 10am. Pl. de Blanquerna.


GIULIA VALLE TRIO The Italian-born composer is joined by pianist Marco Mezquida and drummer David Xirgu in an innovative performance. 7pm. Auditori Conservatori Liceu. Nou de la Rambla 88.

OSO WINTERFEST Poble Espanyol is transformed into a magical winter wonderland. Poble Espanyol. Montjuïc. 3rd-4th.






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15 YEARS OF GNAPOSS The funk, rock, blues and jazz fusion band perform tracks from their musical journey over the years. 10.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

21 BLACK HERITAGE CHOIR The acclaimed gospel choir pay tribute to Grammy Award-winning soul singer Aretha Franklin. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

URBAN CUT-OUTS Lluís Maria Riera’s new perspectives inspired by his friendships with artists Miró, Tàpies and Brossa. Fundació Joan Miró. Montjuïc. Until Jan 15th.


COPPÉLIA Presented by the National Ballet of Uruguay, under the direction of Julio Bocca, this ballet tells the tale of a robot doll. 8pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

SANT ESTEVE A public holiday where Catalans traditionally feast on canelones and meat leftover from Christmas.

BLUES JAM SESSION Internationally-recognised blues singer Hernan Senra lights up the stage. 10.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

EL PETIT PRINCEP The children’s show returns for a third Christmas, accompanied by magical projections and showstopping music. 12pm and 4pm. BARTS. Av. del Paral·lel 62.

NEW YEAR’S FESTIVAL The first edition of this dance festival, organised by Ara en Moviment, hosts jams, workshops and performances over 5 days. Various locations. Until Jan 2nd.

HEALTH ACTIVATION WORKSHOP A free workshop giving you the chance to learn about chiropractic and its core principles. 7pm. Born Chiropractic. Sombrerers 27.

CHILDREN’S FESTIVAL Several activities under one roof to keep children entertained throughout the holidays, including a special ‘day with Peppa Pig’. Fira Montjuïc. Av. Joan Carles I 64. Until Jan 4th. LOS ZIGARROS The rock group from Valencia are considered one of the most exciting bands in the contemporary Spanish music scene. 9pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.




FILLS DE L’OCEÀ Javier Teniente documents communities who depend on fishing to survive. Museu Marítim. Drassanes 1.

SAPIENS. COMPRENDER PARA CREAR Reflect on gastronomic processes as chef Ferran Adrià transforms the museum into an experimental laboratory. CosmoCaixa. Carrer d’Isaac Newton, 26. Until May 31st.


MALÚ This Spanish popstar has sold over 19 Platinum albums in her extensive career and now performs live on her Caos Tour. 9pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Psg. Olímpic 5-7.

BEBE Spanish singer-songwriter performs tracks from her 4th album that shot to number 4 on the Spanish Album Charts. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

ST. STEPHEN’S CONCERT Celebrate the 125th anniversary of the Catalan Choral Society with one of the oldest traditional Christmas concerts in Europe. 7pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

BARCELONA CITY JAM A hip-hop event with DJ sessions, freestyling, beatboxing and special guests. 8pm. Sala Plataforma. Nou de la Rambla 145.


DARK CHRISTMAS FESTIVAL Sala Bikini celebrate the closing of concerts for the year, with headliner, Swedish electro heros, Covenant. 7.15pm. Sala Bikini. Avinguda Diagonal 547.

DRAP-ART’16 This international art festival of reused materials includes exhibitions, discussions, performances, cinema and an Xmas fair. CCCB. Montalegre 5. Dec 16th-31st.


THE ORIGINAL GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA Swing your hips as the orchestra perform live in the grand opera theatre. 5pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59.

NOT THE ROLLING STONES The tribute band take on tracks such as ‘Paint it Black’ and ‘Satisfaction’ in this credible rock concert. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.


...Y QUÉ VIVA MÉXICO A tribute to the work of Mexican sculptor Javier Marin. N2 Galeria. Enrique Granados 61. Until Dec 30th.


THE CITY OF MARVELS The last chance to catch the series of conferences surrounding the history of science within the city. 6pm and 7.15pm. MUHBA. Plaça del Rei.

PAINTING AWARD 2016 An exhibition showcasing the work of shortlisted entries for this year’s artistic competition. Can Framis Museum. Roc Boronat 116-126. Until Dec 18th.


POBLE ESPANYOL CHRISTMAS The site is transformed for Xmas, with a market, music and various performances and workshops. Poble Espanyol. Montjuïc. Until Jan 11th.

GREATEST HITS MUSIC TV The Film Symphony Orchestra perform music from classic TV shows, like Friends and Game of Thrones. 9pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.



MOUSTACHE This fun musical was created by Coco Comin, based on the discipline of tap dance. 8.30pm. Teatre Apolo. Av. del Para lel 59.

ANTROPOLOGIA DEL VIATGE The last in a series of seminars by freelance photographer and writer Jordi Solà Coll on cultural diffusion. 6.30pm. Casa Asia. Sant Antoni Maria Claret 167.

UN THYSSEN NUNCA VISTO An exhibition of works from the Thyssen-Bornemisza museum. CaixaForum. Av. de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. Until Feb 5th.


ELISAVA: (RE)VISIONES Students reflect on the human body’s role in relation to the architectural setting of the museum. Can Framis Museum. Roc Boronat 116-126. Until Dec 15th.

VENUS ZOO Through abstract art and geometric designs, Spanish artist Okuda San Miguel suggests a new vision of society. Galeria 3 Punts. E. Granados 21. Until Dec 10th.

CRYSTAL FIGHTERS The electronic-folk group swap the English capital for Catalunya’s to celebrate the release of their latest album. 9pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Psg. Olímpic 5-7.



OPEN MIC NIGHT Try out your own new material or relax and enjoy the show, with jams, live music, poetry readings, comic acts and more. 8.30pm. Craft Barcelona. Paradís 4.

DÍA DE LA CONSTITUCIÓN Expect most shops to stay open on this public holiday, making for some opportune Christmas shopping.

RESTORATION Brazilian artist Laercio Redondo explores the evolution of his country’s identity using two installments. Ana Mas Projects. Isaac Peral 7. Until Dec 9th.

WEAVING CULTURES An installation created using wood and plant materials to design traditional boats. Museu Marítim. Av. de les Drassanes. Until Dec 18th.



CURSA SANT SILVESTRE Say farewell to 2016 with this annual fancy-dress 10k charity race, which takes place along the beachfront. 5.30pm. Victòria dels Angels.

NEW YEAR’S EVE PARTY A tradition stemming over 25 years, Poble Espanyol goes all out with bells, grapes, music and drinks until the early hours. TBC. Poble Espanyol. Montjuïc.


MIDNIGHT MASS Santa Maria del Mar holds its annual mass to begin the religious celebrations. TBC. Basílica de Santa María del Mar. Pl. de Santa Maria 1.

BÀLSAM I FUGA A series of works created in Catalan prisons aims to promote art as a tool for creative expression. CaixaForum. Av. de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. Until Jan 15th.


ART AND FILM. 120 YEARS OF EXCHANGES An exploratory exhibition on the innovative role of film within various art disciplines. CaixaForum. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8. Dec 16th-March 26th.

BIAF 2016 The fifth edition of the international art fair presents exhibitions from 30 countries. Museu Marítim. Av. de les Drassanes. 16th-17th.


BARCELONA HAYRIDE FESTIVAL A festival with sounds from the 50s and 60s, blues, rock and country music. 10.30pm. Sala La Capsa. Andreu Palma 5-7.

CRYSTAL CASTLES Canadian experimental-electronic group celebrate the release of their fourth album and the 10th anniversary of their music career. 9pm. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.


COPA DE NADAL DE NATACIÓ A cool event with swimming Santas, the annual open water swim is a 200m race through Barcelona’s port. 12pm. Rambla de Mar.



FC BARCELONA VS RCD ESPANYOL The defending champions take on their neighbours in another La Liga matchup. TBC. Camp Nou. Aristides Maillol 12.

GARDENS OF COOPERATION German philosopher and film director Alexander Kluge presents his first exhibition in Spain. The Virreina Image Centre. Rambla 99. Until Feb 5th.


NO HAGO PREDICCIONES, SINO EXCUSAS Scottish artist Jo Milne blurs the lines between science and art in her creative representations. Espai Volart i Volart 2. Ausiàs Marc 22. Until Dec 18th.

EL FLEA Bargain hunters! The secondhand market returns with plenty of bargains. 10am. Pl. de Blanquerna.


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in style


Name: Roger Age: 29 Profession: Journalist From: Barcelona Jumper: Zara Shoes: Massimo Dutti

Name: Margarita Age: 24 Profession: Waitress From: Ukraine Coat: Mango Jeans: H&M

Name: Vanessa Age: 18 Profession: Teacher From: Barcelona Coat: Stradivarius Scarf: Stradivarius Jeans: Zara






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making a




uman statues have stood proudly (and nearly motionless) on Barcelona’s Rambla for more than 40 years. Over time, the costumes have become more elaborate as each artist endeavours to make their act stand out from the rest, and they’ve perfected that anticipated moment when a willing tourist tosses a coin into their box and they break their stillness with a movement in tune with their character. However, new city council regulations are making these street performers’ situations precarious, compelling them to stand up for more than just their art. In response to the proposed changes, the Rambla’s statues have united and formed a collective to make their voices heard. REGULATIONS The current regulations regarding street theatre came into effect in 2012 under the previous government. The statues were relocated from their position between Plaça Reial and Plaça Catalunya to the bottom of the Rambla. “They put us in the culo of the Rambla,” lamented Walter San Joaquín, president of the human statues’ association, the Asociación República de las Estatuas Humanas de la Rambla de Barcelona, and Don Quixote when he’s at work. Their current position is on the Rambla de Santa Mónica which, although the widest part of the famous thoroughfare, is also the part with the least foot traffic. This is a problem for the human statues. “We don’t receive government subsidies,” explained San Joaquín. “We live off the voluntary collaboration of the public.” On top of this, there is talk of forbidding the statues from putting images of money on their collection boxes to encourage passersby to contribute, said the secretary of the association, Luís Alberto Silva Almeida—better known as ‘the bronze cowboy’. But perhaps the biggest problem isn’t the regulations themselves but the council’s inability to keep to them. Auditions to give licences to new performers haven’t been held since 2012—those that were scheduled for 2014 did not go ahead. In addition, some of the existing performers come on an ad hoc basis or not at all, explained Silva, and with no measures to replace these artists, the numbers are dwindling. San Joaquín regrets that the “intangible cultural heritage” that attracts many to the Rambla is being lost. Images of street theatre are used by the tourist office to “sell the Rambla to the world”, but this is a Rambla that no longer exists. The artists that create this sense of ‘bohemia’ are being disregarded by the local government and becoming disheartened. Fermín Villar, president of the association Amics de la Rambla (Friends of the Rambla), is sympathetic to the statues’ plight. In his eyes, the human statues are in keeping with “the spirit of the Rambla” and are part of what people come to see. He said that the bureaucracy needs to be more agile so that artists waiting for a licence can replace those who fail to show up regularly. PROPOSALS The local government is currently reviewing the rules, and the statues’ association, keen to be involved, has presented its own self-management plan for street theatre. Their demands include being allowed to return to their previous location and that the conditions of their licences be changed. Currently, each of the 30 licensed artists has a designated spot that no one else can


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use. If a performer fails to turn up, not only does their spot go empty but other willing artists are denied the opportunity to work. The association proposes three different licenses: full, supplant and visitor. Auditions—overseen by a panel of artists and representatives from cultural institutions, theatre companies and local associations—would be held to recruit new performers. The 30 artists with the highest scores would be awarded a full licence, allowing them to perform every day. There would then be 200 more artists with a supplant licence who would be selected by a daily lottery to replace any absent performers. The visitor licence would be awarded to visiting artists, creating a cultural exchange that would increase the diversity on the Rambla. This system aims to ensure that the designated spaces are “constantly occupied by artists”, breathing life back into the Rambla’s theatre scene and creating more work for performers. Under the association’s proposals, all licensed performers would have to join a selfmanaged collective. The members of this organisation would be in charge of those tasks that the Ajuntament is failing to carry out, such as ensuring artists turn up for work and replacing those who don’t. The association is also proposing programmes to get local schoolchildren involved with street theatre. THE RAMBLA The human statues’ struggle highlights a wider conflict about ownership of public spaces in Barcelona. “Anything you place on the Rambla is worth gold,” explained San Joaquín, and with so many groups holding a vested interest, no regulation is ever going to satisfy everyone. San Joaquín believes that the Rambla is being “privatised”, with historical landmarks such as buildings, drinking fountains and lampposts obscured by increasing amounts of advertising and private terraces which, in turn, leave little space for artistic activities. He feels that the government has given into businesses, giving them priority over local people and artists. RESPONSES TO THE PROPOSAL So far, the government’s response has been disappointing. “It’s a huge battle,” said San Joaquín, “because they simply aren’t considering our proposals.” He accused Barcelona’s mayor, Ada Colau, of positing her Barcelona en Comú government as “participatory and democratic”, but in reality not listening to the input of others while preparing to enact regulations which are an imitation of those of the previous government. On the other hand, the city council claims that they are indeed “analysing all the demands” made by the human statues. The sticking point, however, is the question of location. The council has said that under no circumstances will they consider the relocation of the statues to their previous position, something unacceptable to the statues themselves. Despite being in favour of the presence of human statues, Fermín Villar agrees that there’s no other option than for the statues to stay where they are, “as the Rambla is already saturated with activity”. Encouragingly for the statues’ cause, however, the Eix de Cultura de Barcelona En Comú (the cultural arm of Ada Colau’s government) has advocated for the “relocation of the statues along the Rambla, as long as the circulation, mobility and safety of pedestrians is taken into account”. One thing is for sure, as the struggle persists, Barcelona’s human statues will not give up until their voices are heard.

THE HISTORY OF HUMAN STATUES Human statues can trace the history of their art back to medieval times when the tableau vivant, or living picture—in which costumed actors would pose to depict a scene—was popular at royal occasions. More recently, tableaux vivants enjoyed a heyday in the late-19th and early20th centuries when they were a central part of erotic theatre. Due to censorship laws of the time, nude or semi-nude actresses weren’t allowed to move on stage. This was circumvented by including immobile nude performers in the acts. Today’s human statues rarely perform naked so passers-by have to be content with simply admiring the artists’ costumes.


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2. 1.

4. 7. 5. 1. NORTHWEEK Customisable, polarised sunglasses From €25 With just €6,000 and a big dream, Barcelona students Alex Huertas and Hector Rey founded Northweek in 2013. They specialise in online retail and offer sunglasses personalisable by shape, colour and pattern, along with dozens of standard models.


2. ROLL’EAT Boc’n’Roll Eco Green Sandwich Wrap From €8.95 Committed to promoting sustainability and reducing packaging consumption, Roll’Eat offers a variety of reusable wraps and bags, ideal for the environmentally conscious friend who likes to keep a snack handy. The Boc’n’Roll is available in multiple colours, is machine-washable and has an easy-to-use fastener that adapts to wrap sandwiches of different sizes.

3. NYLON SKY Contour Necklace From €25 Born from a love of architecture, this UK jewellery company is now based in Barcelona. Their pieces feature modular shapes made from metal and wood, with varying textures and shades. Brand available in-store: OMG BCN Plaça de la Llana 7. Grey Street Peu de la Creu 25. Colmillo de Morsa Vic 15.

4. PINZAT One-of-a-Kind Bike Seat €75 Specialising in bags and bike accessories made from recycled materials, Pinzat is a collective of over 30 international artists based primarily in Barcelona. These bike seats are made using ESSAX seat models and are hand-painted with waterproof ink. Models available in-store: Pinzat Grunyí 7.

5. DOBLE COCO Measuring Stick for Children €125 Doble Coco creates simple, understated wooden furnishings. They build their own products, hand-select stylish goods from other local artisans and offer personal shopping and interior decorating services.

6. SILA Mussola Navy & Beige Bag €84 Sila products are manufactured from high-quality leather and nautical fabrics, inspired by the colours and spirit of the Mediterranean. Practical and durable, they showcase careful, handmade craftsmanship. Brand available in-store: Ivori Mirallers 7.

7. ZAVART Golden Japanese Pattern Phone Case €17.90 Designed by Barcelona-trained designer Elisa Codina, in collaboration with other local artists, Zavart phone cases are available in a range of colours and unique designs for various iPhone 5 and 6 models. Models available in-store: La Nostra Ciutat Pi 11.


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Catacurian. Photo by Joan Sorolla

WINE AND DINE Catacurian Alicia Juanpere Artigas and Jonathan Perret understand how important viticulture is to Catalan gastronomy. For this reason, they have been offering cooking courses in the heart of Priorat wine country since 2003. Classes are kept small, each one celebrating a variety of regional dishes centred around key recipes, from classic paellas to more obscure recipes like clotxa, a peasant bread that hails from Tarragona. Based in Gratallops, Catacurian offers all-inclusive single and multi-day tours that combine wine tastings at local vineyards with evening cooking classes and a stay at a local boutique hotel. Guests spend their days visiting local wine cellars, learning about the winemaking process and tasting wines from D.O. Montsant and D.O.Q. Priorat, the latter a region now in the forefront of Catalan winemaking. In the evenings, they participate in cooking classes of two to three hours followed by dinner. Workshops from €150 per person Tarragona

Photo courtesy of Domus Sent Sovi

s the cold weather draws us indoors, the kitchen once more becomes a place for rustling up seasonal comfort foods. Autumn and winter in Catalunya are filled with much-loved culinary traditions and, from freshly-picked mushrooms to hearty meat dishes, there’s plenty to warm the body and soul. They say that Catalan cuisine is based on three main ingredients: wheat, wine and oil. The origins of this trinity are more likely to be biblical than local, but Catalan cuisine certainly embraces Mediterranean ingredients that were long cultivated by the Phoenicians and Romans. The region’s culinary traditions are nuanced and determined by its landscapes and the flavours they produce. It can be separated into coastal and mountain cuisine, as well as the interior cuisine that hails from the high country (Terra Alta). Many recipes originated in the towns and villages across the region, making it harder to find dishes that are native to multicultural cities like Barcelona. With the top restaurant in the world, El Celler de Can Roca, in its backyard, and establishments like Tickets and Disfrutar wowing crowds with crafty gastronomic techniques, Catalunya is no stranger to haute cuisine, either. So whether it’s traditional recipes you’re after or a more contemporary take, the following workshops will fine-tune your techniques and teach you all you need to know about the cuisine of fair Catalunya.

GET MEDIEVAL Domus Sent Soví In the scenic village of Hostalric, just an hour north of Barcelona, is Domus Sent Soví, a gastronomic centre devoted to maintaining Catalunya’s culinary heritage through the teachings of The Book of Sent Soví (1324), an anonymous work said to be Catalunya’s first book about its cuisine. According to the prologue, it was written in Catalan by a man who was once chef to the King of England and was intended for squires stationed with lords and gentlemen to gain knowledge of the appropriate recipes to cook for their masters. Aside from the first printed book of Catalan cuisine, Llibre de Coc (1520) by Robert de Nola, it is considered the foundational text of Catalan cuisine, and many of its recipes are still referenced today. For example, picada and sofregit, which form the basis of many of today’s sauces, are included—albeit sans tomatoes, which didn’t enter the culinary register until after they were brought from the Americas in the 16th century. Domus Sent Soví was created with the aim of protecting and promoting this key part of Catalunya’s gastronomic past, and uses the text as its guiding principle in teaching the essentials of medieval cookery. In contrast to its traditional subject, the centre itself is a large sleek space perched above the town’s picturesque valley. It houses a number of different classrooms, an auditorium and a small shop featuring cookbooks and local products. The centre holds workshops for individuals and groups and, while their classes are primarily centred on medieval recipes, they also run regular classes devoted to seasonal cuisine. In the autumn and winter, for example, they often feature a class focused solely on wild mushrooms. Workshops from €15 Hostalric


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FRESH CATCH Espai del Peix In the heart of Palamós, on the docks where fishermen bring in the daily catch, stands the Espai del Peix, a centre which teaches visitors about Catalunya’s fishing industry. Developed in collaboration with the Centre d’Interpretació de la Pesca—the maritime museum dedicated to Mediterranean fish and the local fishing industry—the Espai has one large classroom that runs cooking workshops and showcooking events all focused, of course, on fish. Their philosophy is that cooking is a way for people to better understand the natural products of the region and teaching is a way to preserve ancestral recipes. Instructing clients on traditional mariner cooking—recipes of humble origin that were developed and handed down by local fisherman—the Espai also explains the plight of the fishing industry and showcases lesser-known fish as a way to support responsible consumerism. Visitors can combine their workshop or museum visit with a trip to the fish auction, where they can take in all the piscine action from a salon overhead.

MOUNTAIN MENU Lo Pallar del Coc Nestled in the region of Pallars Sobirà in northwestern Catalunya, Lo Pallar del Coc is a country house run by Mariano and Silvia, which offers visitors a space to relax while learning the ingredients and recipes of mountain cuisine. Former chef and Hofmann teacher, Mariano gives classes tailored to guests’ preferences. All food is local, seasonal and organic whenever possible, and guests have the opportunity to combine a cooking workshop with a visit to local artesanal producers. Additionally, Silvia runs a wellness space with massage therapy and teaches handicraft workshops. The house is divided into apartments, which are available for rent, making it a perfect getaway for the travelling chef. Cooking workshops from €80 Rialp

HAUTE CUISINE Hofmann In addition to its culinary degrees, Hofmann teaches the tricks of the trade to anyone who wants to up their culinary game (think tempura fried egg yolk) through an impressive series of monographic courses that focus on many Catalan classics. They teach traditional fare by the book or spin it into haute cuisine. Learn straightforward techniques to make a fantastic coca bread or weave traditional canelones into something otherworldly with unusual ingredients like sea urchin, shiitake and miso. This is a chance to learn from top chefs like Carme Ruscalleda of Sant Pau and Hideki Matsuhisa of Koy Shunka.

Photo courtesy of Espai Sucre

Monographic courses from €75

Photo courtesy of Curso Escribà Academy

Photo courtesy of Espai del Peix

Fish Auction: €1.50 Espai, museum and tasting: €6 Workshops: €10 / €2.50 for minors under 10 Palamós

JUST DESSERTS Patisseria Escribà For those of us who prefer to skip straight to dessert, consider a pastry course in Barcelona, home to one of the best pastry shops in the world, Patisseria Escribà. With a window display best known for its weighty chocolate sculptures, their 100-year-old shop on Gran Via is a sweet treasure trove and a well-known fixture among the locals who descend upon it each Easter to purchase their chocolate Monas. The corresponding school offers one-day workshops and trimestre courses dedicated to the foundations of pastry-making and decorating, as well as special masterclasses by Christian Escribà and Patricia Schmidt. Monographic courses from €110 Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 546 Espai Sucre For a different kind of cutting edge, check out Espai Sucre, a unique space that functions as part-classroom, part-restaurant, and instructs in restaurant quality desserts. They have a range of one-day courses, including some suited to celiacs and lactose intolerants. In the restaurant you can try one of their dessert tasting menus with out-of-the-ordinary creations like coconut tapioca pudding with burnt egg yolk and orujo liquor. Sant Pere Més Alt 72


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Photos taken by Iñigo Bujedo

GREEN SPOT VEGETARIAN CUISINE ON POINT BY SAM ZUCKER n excellent vegetarian restaurant, especially in Barcelona, is always a welcome surprise. Green Spot is a sleekly designed and professionally run, upscale vegetarian eatery between the city’s Ribera and Barceloneta neighbourhoods. Dubbed “veggies for veggies and veggies for non-veggies”, the food at Green Spot is full of bold seasoning and substance. The creative cocktails and juices serve as a warm invitation to launch your meal, and the addition of live music during dinner (Thursdays) is an unexpected bonus. The restaurant decor itself is certainly worth mentioning—a gorgeous and instantly welcoming space designed by world-famous Brazilian architect and interiorist Isay Weinfeld. The classy mood lighting and assortment of unique fixtures, the broad expanses of natural wood panels, the sturdy furniture and the lush interior ‘greenhouse’ conspire to create a hushed, cosy environment where diners are undistracted and unmolested by neighbouring tables. Imagine dining in a stylish, Scandinavian library, with your own personal desk lamp illuminating the table as you eat. The service offered by Green Spot’s denimclad waiting staff is friendly, though my

Photo by Tara Stevens


phone request for a Friday night table was immediately denied (“fully booked”), only to have my girlfriend call back 10 minutes later and be told that we could come at 10pm and have a drink while we wait for a table to open up. The wait wasn’t long as we lounged on the plush, upholstered sofas in the centre of the dining room, which form a semicircle around a massive, rustic wooden coffee table, loaded with hip indie magazines and potted plants.

Our pizza did not disappoint. In fact, it pained me to share it, as I could have eaten every slice myself. Overall, the food was delicious, though I do feel that in some instances the same food served in a less beautiful space would have made for a less impressive meal. That being said, I enjoyed my first experience at Green Spot so much that I went back again just two weeks later. The first visit began with intriguing dishes such as fennel braised in orange juice with spicy chillies and sunflower seeds (a dairy-free dish that cleverly emulated the richness of butter with a sauce ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE


Panna Cotta is one of those elusive dishes that at the outset seems so simple, yet can easily go horribly wrong. You’re looking for a finished dish that is firm but jiggles, rather than sets like cheesecake. My advice is to try it a couple of times to check how much gelatine you need—this can vary slightly depending on the cream, the milk and the brand of gelatine. Once you’ve got it right, it’s a show-stopping Christmas dessert that will take you literally five minutes. Hooray to that.


600ml whipping cream 150ml milk (I use semi-skimmed) 50ml rose water 8 cardamom pods, crushed 150g caster sugar 3 leaves gelatine

✪✪✪ GOOD

base of deeply caramelised onions), lemony red quinoa-stuffed grape leaves (dolmades), and a peppery salad of watercress with red berry vinaigrette, crunchy ice plant leaves, grapes and grilled Halloumi cheese. All of these dishes offered surprises, and I really couldn’t get enough of the salad (I even tried to recreate it at home the next day). Green Spot has become well-known for its wood-fired vegetarian and vegan pizzas, many made with activated charcoal and hemp doughs (the hemp dough still contains wheat flour too), and our pizza of asparagus, kalamata olives, cherry tomatoes and smoky scamorza cheese did not disappoint. In fact, it pained me to share it, as I could have eaten every slice myself. The ‘chilli sin carne’ vegetarian chilli was adequate, though not something I would repeat. It was served in the style of a do-ityourself taco platter, with thin and chalky flour tortillas, which reminded me more of the Chinese pancakes that come with Peking duck than the chewier Latin American variety. The condiments were nice, especially the corn salsa, and I liked that they brought bottles of habanero and Valentina salsas to the table, but I just didn’t care for the texture or the flavour of the chilli itself. On our second visit to Green Spot, we

(I use Dr. Oetker) Seeds of one large pomegranate 1 mango, finely chopped Handful blueberries Juice of a lime Mint leaves to garnish

METHOD 1. Soak the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water. 2. Mix the fruits together and toss with the lime juice. 3. Add the cream, milk, rosewater, cardamom and sugar to a heavybottomed pan and bring to a boil.


4. Simmer for two-three minutes, until reduced slightly. 5. Strain into a large jug, then squeeze the excess water from the gelatine leaves and stir into the cream mix making sure to dissolve them well. 6. Pour the mix into six small ramekins, espresso cups or shot glasses (greased if you want to turn them out). 7. Place in the fridge and leave to set for at least four hours (you can make them the day before, but remove them from the fridge at least 30 minutes before serving). 8. If you want to turn them out, run a knife around the edge of the ramekin and turn upside down onto a plate, garnishing with the fruit and mint leaves 9. If you want to eat straight from the cup, simply pile the fruit and mint leaves on top.


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Photo taken by Paula Ospina

Photos taken by Iñigo Bujedo

tried the aubergine and courgette tacos, which were served in a similar fashion to the chilli dish, though this time the tortillas were the traditional corn variety. I would have loved this dish if it wasn’t for the dried-out and torn tortillas. The taco filling was a delicious stew of vegetables with a touch of Chipotle and plenty of achiote for a bright red colour. The grilled pineapple garnish was great, as was the fresh tomato and corn salsa (same as the chilli). I can’t be certain, but the corn tortillas looked store-bought, which is a shame since the dish would have been superb in a softer, more tender wrapper. Dessert at Green Spot sounds appealing in theory, but neither the Lemon Pie (great flavour but not enough lemon filling compared to the amount of crust), nor the Rhubarb Crumble (again, excellent flavour but this time very watery) blew me away. The Carrot Cake was very moist and satisfying, though it almost bordered on a savoury dish with its vegan cashew icing, blend of spices and lack of sweetness. Overall, I was impressed with this restaurant and would recommend it to anyone looking for a vegetarian meal in Barcelona that is well above average, especially if you are dining with regular meat eaters, as although the dishes contain no meat, they never fail to satisfy. I’m sure to be back...again.

MORE INFO Reina Cristina 12. T. 93 802 5565 ✪✪✪✪

in season: DECEMBER Blueberries, pears, citrus, chirimoya

Tara Stevens is a food writer and cook who splits her time between Barcelona and her little cooking school in the Fez Medina. Passionate about Spanish and Moroccan cuisine, she takes traditional recipes and gives them a modern makeover using local and seasonal ingredients. Follow Tara on Instagram @courtyardkitchenfez and Twitter @taralstevens.

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Provença 310, Bis (No phone)




MA restaurant just moved from Sants to Eixample, and though it’s fully booked for months in advance (due to them having only a handful of tables and one service per night), their new, more casual, faster-paced dining option next door doesn’t take reservations and is aptly named Nobook. In fact, the website revels in a blaring lack of information and leaves curious diners with no choice but to come and experience the food in person. Dinner at Nobook is not only an explosion of flavours that bombard the taste buds, but also a full-on visual assault, as the striking orange decor matches the vibrant orange, prison-look jumpsuits worn by servers, cooks and the chef. The menu at Nobook can feel overwhelming at times due to the variety of eccentric dishes, so let your waiter guide you and don’t miss the chance to try a couple of their equally weird cocktails while you’re at it. The Pearl Jam, for example, is a laboratory flask full of gin, cucumber, apple, lime and plankton, sea blue from special tonic water, with wispy clouds of liquid nitrogen billowing out. Of the many dishes of the night, the stand out was definitely the incredibly tender, roasted


lamb with pumpkin, crunchy plantain chips and merquén (smoked and ground Chilean chilli peppers), served on a banana leaf with green branches and a smoking hunk of red-hot charcoal. The lamb melted in my mouth and had a pleasing hint of spice. Next came a barrage of culinary creations, from fried, Cajun-spiced, crispy Soft Shell Crab Burgers and a fingerlicking good riff on the classic, westernised Chinese dish General Tso’s Chicken, to Mexican tacos of cochinita pibil with crunchy pork rinds and Braised Oxtail with waffles. Nobook has over 15 speciality cocktails and an entire page of their menu dedicated to explaining cocktail and food pairing suggestions—apparently Samosas and the Sherezade cocktail of vodka, apple, rose petals, vanilla and clove are a perfect match. Prepare to dish out a little more money than you would for a typical ‘small plate’ kind of restaurant, but the creativity and surprises in store are well worth the price. Note: I ate at Nobook just days after their opening and had some issues with several dishes (mainly in seasoning/flavour balance), but am confident that my next visit will be an even more impressive experience.

Miquel Hudin is a sommelier originally from California, now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue series of wine books (

“THE BEST” There is an annual Catalan wine award called “Els Premis Vinari”, given by the local wine publication Vadevi. While I wasn’t able to participate as a judge last year due to scheduling issues, I was able to fit it in this year. Essentially, a number of people involved in wine in Catalunya (sommeliers, journalists, oenologists, etc.) gather to test various groups of wines. The tasting is blind, ensuring there’s no favouritism and that the playing field is level. There are various winners in each category and this year, unusually, there was a tie in the

“Best Aged Wine” category. Even more unusual was that the same wines then tied in the “Best Overall Wine” category, seeing the Mas de la Rosa from Vall Llach and the Vd’O 1.10 from Vinyes d’Olivardots both receive the award. But, maybe it’s not as strange as it seems. Both wines are old vine Carignan and from slate soils, going to show that, despite being from opposite ends of Catalunya, this combination makes for one hell of a wine.



From DO Empordà, this wine holds smoky dark cherry notes and a touch of graphite that translates into a full, round and seductive wine on the palate, with a long finish. A very age-worthy vintage that is just now showing its excellence.

From DOQ Priorat and one of the “Vi de Finca” qualified estate wines, this wine’s stone minerality and crisp red fruits leap out of the glass along with light, delicate floral notes. In the mouth, the acidity is perfectly balanced and lifts the generous body of the wine. It’s showing well now and will age for 10 years or more.


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& IN

Bar D9 BAR4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has at least one night a week for you. Equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. With American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus parties on Thursdays and music-themed parties on Fridays and Saturdays, there is always something for everyone. 


 under 20 |  20-30 |  30-40 |  over 40  food&drink visit our online directory

Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am



Roast chicken and burgers – is there anything more appealing? This recently opened restaurant serves both! Their chicken from the Empordà region is marinated and cooked over coals by Chef Iñaki Moreno. They have some amazing Burgers on the Menu, with vegan and gluten free options too. Don’t forget to try their craft beers and cocktails! DJ sessions every Friday and Saturday from 8pm onwards. 

This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel, where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This club offers a programme of cultural and music events for the most creative public. It is the ideal space for escaping the crowds or hosting business clients. 

Duc de Medinacelli 2, 08002 Tel. 93 220 47009 Mon-Fri 1pm-12am and Sat 12pm-12am Sun 12pm-11am

Elisabets 11 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 6280 Tues-Thurs 4pm-12am Fri-Sat 4pm-2am



Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients, his cuisine is presented with an imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maître d’: Oscar Fernández. 

The recently opened BlackLab Brewery offers customers a new experience in Barcelona––a place to enjoy a unique pint of craft beer, made just two metres away from where you’re sitting. BlackLab’s food is a culinary journey from China all the way to New York. You’ll find dumplings and bahn mi, mussels fresh from the fish market, ramen, cheesecake, portobello mushrooms, and more. New 1 hour beer tour every Sunday at 5pm. Tastings of 4 beers for €12. Quote ‘Metropolitan’ to receive a free BlackLab bag. 

Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360


Indian / Tandoori SURYA4EIXAMPLE


Surya Barcelona is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich in colour, smell and exotic flavours. They offer a cosy and relaxed space where you can feel at home, drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet and work, all while sampling some of their delicious dishes. After dinner you can relax with cocktails and enjoy their in-house DJs, from their The House Party collective on “Deep Fridays”, to Saturday night’s “Funky New Disco”. 

Specialists in Tandoori. Typical halaal with high quality dishes. See the chefs prepare and cook your food which is all made with fresh ingredients. Boasting a Bollywood musical ambience, Nice Spice is an excellent choice for traditional indian food in Barcelona. 

Pau Claris 92 | Consell de Cent 236, 08011 Tel. 93 667 8760 Mon-Sun 10am-3am

Pujades 207 | Metro Poblenou Tel. 93 308 9548 Wed-Mon 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12pm



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Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room, designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well-known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that are a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins. 

Mannà Gelats offers homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the finest products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, and boast a range of exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalised attention. 

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312 Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun 1pm-4pm



This recently opened restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine. For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or Vuelve la Vida, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Other dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, as well as the Atún Moctezuma, a pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is also available at the weekend.  

At Menssana, a creative and healthy cuisine is combined with gracious and knowledgeable service. There is something for everyone, with vegan and vegetarian options created using flavours from across the globe. They also offer a carefully selected range of local wines and beers, as well as smoothies and fresh juices. Their aim is to nourish your body and mind with delicious meals, served in a vibrant and friendly atmosphere.  Sardenya 48, 08005 Tel. 93 624 3505 Mon-Sat 9am-12am Sun 9am-6pm

Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thurs 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am


SÚPER COFFEE & FOOD STORE4POBLENOU Located in the vibrant district of Poblenou, Súper provides speciality coffees and a wide selection of healthy food to take away. Using the finest local and organic ingredients, they aim to provide nourishing and balanced meals for the surrounding working community. 

Britta’s Nordic Deli is the first and only Scandinavian deli in Barcelona. Here you’ll find the most delicious sandwiches and smørrebrød in town. Moreover, they offer all kinds of specialities to take away from a wide charcuterie, including smoked and marinated wild salmon, hot smoked salmon, marinated herring, homemade salads, smoked deer, organic cheeses, Danish seaweed caviar and a lot more. Bonavista 29 | Tel. 93 461 7362 | Mon 5-9pm, Tues-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat 11.30am-3.30pm, Sun closed |

Delivery FOODIES BARCELONA4POBLENOU Foodies Barcelona is an online restaurant that prepares wholesome and fresh meals, delivering to your office, business or party. Whether you want a healthy lunch for a meeting or daily catering, they’ve got you covered. Order online or contact them for a menu. 

Roc Boronat 102, 08018 Mon-Fri 8am-6pm

Sant Joan de Malta 131 | Tel. 93 266 4271 Mon-Fri 8am-11am |

Vegetarian/Vegan BE MY BAGEL4GRÀCIA


Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. Offering an extensive range of bagels and cakes—from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed. 

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation with its vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features thalis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. 

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) | Metro Fontana or Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm Sun 10.30am-2pm

Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11.30pm, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm |

AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Their menu of the day costs 10.70, while their night and weekend menus cost 15.50.  Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun closed |


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Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults


Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine. She is also a member of IAMAT.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: See our online directory at Doctors Barcelona - DOCTOR Doctors Barcelona is the top medical group in Barcelona. They are committed to providing a first-rate level of care and attention. They are experienced, trained and equipped to diagnose and treat the most acute or chronic medical problems and injuries. Available 24 hours including weekends and holidays. A 30-minute arrival time to your destination is guaranteed. Their visit fee is refundable by most insurance companies. All doctors are specialists and, using their services, the best hospitals are available.

M. 689 327 144

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Dr Bassas - DERMATOLOGY The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technology. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of Surgical Dermatology and Venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience. Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efficient and accessible care in Surgical Dermatology and Venereology, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics. Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. Googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly. Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191

ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest have more than 40 years’ experience working for your health and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and prevention is the best treatment. The cure for colorectal cancer depends on preventative measures and its early diagnosis. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a five-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme.

ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest

Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464/93 545 0990 Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed

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Narayn Yadave AYURVEDIC DOCTOR Dr. Narayn is an expert in digestion disorders, diet and nutrition at Ayurveda Barcelona, an Ayurvedic Health Centre located in the “Les Corts” district behind L’Illa Diagonal. The centre provides Ayurvedic consultancy, Ayurvedic treatments and massages, detox programmes and ongoing training in Ayurveda.

Carrer de L’Aviacio 11 08029 - Barcelona T. 93 494 29 28 / M. 639 325 756 Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm

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Orthoestetic - DENTIST

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the Invisalign system.

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, this team consisting of first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 35 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan. Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Metro: Rocafort/Rosselló (L5) Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 Mon, Weds, Thurs 3.30pm-8.30pm Tues and Fri 9.30am-2pm

Platinum Provider



Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are provided. Dr. Boj lectures on dentistry related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, NY, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.

Jessica Boston is a certified Cognitive Hypnotherapist based in the centre of Barcelona. Cognitive Hypnotherapy works to redefine your subconscious perspective and guide you towards what you really want, making positive change quickly and permanently to any kind of issue. Why not get in touch for your complimentary consultation to find out how it could change any aspect of your life, because nothing has to be the way it’s always been.

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994

M. 660 514 795 Metro: Diagonal/Provenca

Eugenia Espinosa - ENGLISH


SPEAKING PSYCHOLOGIST Eugenia is a licensed psycologist (col. 18602) and therapist for individuals, couples and families, who specialises in issues related to migration. Trained in Mexico, New York and Barcelona, she has a wealth of experience in treating individuals dealing with the complexities and stress of building a new life in a forgein country. She also offers comprehensive treatment for people going through depression, divorce or any other life-altering event.


Santa Perpetua M. 677 090 479

Hestía - PSYCHOTHERAPY Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual profile. Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, Russian and Catalan. The first consultation is free. Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802

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Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5)


The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, German, Italian and Greek. For detailed information, please visit their website.

Lovecycle - CYCLING REINVENTED LOVECYCLE is a 45 minute highintensity, high-energy, cardio dance workout for the entire body (with signature core exercises and hand weights). Inspiring instructors, customised playlists and choreographed routines with a candlelit atmosphere will guide you through an invigorating fitness experience. It’s something you must try if you love music, dance and working out. See you on your bike!

Via Augusta, 10 (Diagonal) T. 93 541 3149

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Symmetry Pilates - PILATES

Tatiane Canário

Premium Pilates - NOT ‘get in, get knackered, get out!’ Unlike other forms of exercise, Pilates is targeted at those parts of the body where either correction – too long huddled over a computer for example – or strength is needed, as well as building up a strong core. People who do Pilates know it’s all about quality not quantity, so the benefit is felt after only a few sessions. So, sign up at this swanky new city-centre studio (yoga & physio also available) and enjoy a complimentary massage. Enric Granados 111 (entlo 2º) T. 93 531 3620 M. 637 693 073

T. 93 217 3025

Bikram Yoga - HOT YOGA


Benedicte Taillard - HYPNOSIS, COACHING, Benedicte provides you with the tools for, and helps you make the changes you need to enjoy a healthy, purposeful and fulfilling life on a daily basis. She guides you through accomplishing your aspirations, and becoming your best self-help. M. 654 538 506

Emma Axelsson - THERAPIST Emma is a certified therapist who helps you handle life’s ups and downs, specialising in self-esteem and anxiety-related issues. The first introductory session is free of charge. She also provides group therapy for self-esteem with new sessions starting in January 2017. Visit her website for more information. República Argentina 19, 08023 M. 685 837 223

Creative Resilience - THERAPY AND COACHING

English-speaking, Australian-trained Chiropractor working in Barcelona, with 23 years of experience, who specialises in gentle, comfortable techniques. He has years of experience with back pain, neck pain, headaches, disc protrusions, and sciatica, but also with health and wellbeing. Emergencies on weekends

The oldest way of thinking about life and a different kind of therapy. Everybody is resilient, it’s just that sometimes we don’t feel it, or we just need a little time to get it back. Therapy and coaching for individuals, couples, parents and organisations. Psychologist qualified in London, Latin America and Barcelona.

Oliver Dawson - BORN CHIROPRACTIC Oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through specific spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Call today. Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623

Canvis - PSYCHOLOGIST Canvis offers an international environment, where you can be assisted in English, German, Dutch, Italian, French, Spanish & Catalan. They provide psychological assessment and treatment to families, adults, adolescents and children. Their committed team can help you through difficult periods and guide you to emotional well-being. Free introduction session. M. 616 099 328 / 654 389 074 / T. 93 487 46 66

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Georgina Weinstein - VOICE COACH Singing teacher, jazz vocalist and certified life coach, Georgina offers coaching for people looking to enhance their vocal skills for both singing and public speaking. Her combination of skills and experience help clients boost their confidence while preparing a repertoire, a presentation, or improving their diction. Classes are available in Spanish and English. M. 626 255 792

Stefan Becker - CHIROPRACTOR

Caponata 3, 08034. M. 646 684 402


Bikram Yoga have two centres in Barcelona with over 50 classes a week and options for children. Providing the ideal solution for back pain, stress, weight loss and other problems, they offer international staff and more than 18 years’ experience. Reader offer: €25 for 10 days of unlimited yoga. Pau Claris 97, PRAL, 08009, T. 93 302 5130 Caravel•la la Niña 18, 08017, T. 93 205 0281

YogaconGracia - YOGA An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of Gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will find a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. YcG has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes.




Pilates and muscle activation in a beautiful, fully equipped studio in Gracia, run by Pilates professionals with more than 15 years of experience. Classes available for individuals and pairs, first class is free. Bring this ad and receive a 10% discount when you sign up for the first 3 months.

Janeth Solá - MASSAGE Janeth Solá Ayurveda Massage Therapies Centre offers treatment for back and joint pain, stress, fatigue, insomnia and Vata related disorders. This centre located in the Sants district is the ideal place for those looking to improve their physical health and state of mind, practise relaxation and receive nutritional advice and dietary coaching from an Ayurveda viewpoint. Galileo 82. Sants. M. 655 560 162


M. 698 370 552

Jonathan Hooker - PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646

Uby Muñoz, Lic.Ac. - ACUPUNCTURE Trained in England, Uby has experience successfully treating a wide range of health problems including: allergies, arthritis, chronic pain, migraines, headaches, IBS, infertility, IVF, insomnia, back pain, menopause, stress and anxiety. Uby specialises in natural fertility treatments and women’s health. Casp 80, 1-3, 08010 M. 622 720 499

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm

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BCN Seguros - INSURANCE Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) we offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical! Advice given in Spanish, English and German.


To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: See our online directory at Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

M. 636 465 010

Fuente Fradera - LAwyERS Based in Barcelona, Fuente Fradera Lawyers is a rapidly growing law firm which covers areas of law including: real estate, commercial law and labour law. Their services are available for businesses, entrepreneurs and private consultations. As legal advisers, they offer a highly efficient, quality service which generates valuable customer confidence in their work. They speak English, French, German and Russian.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669

Gran Vía Corts Catalanes T. 93 317 5219

Spain accounting-


TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service Contact David Cook on M.678 702 369

Barcelona Women’s Network - BUSINESS

Supported charities 2014 - 2016

• Barcelona’s premier network for international women • Over 200 members from 30+ countries. • As a social club that supports local charities and offers a business network, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and business seminars. we help women thrive and feel at home in Barcelona.

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George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 606 308 932

BarCeloNa oFFiCe SERVICED OFFICE SPACE Barcelona Office is a street-level premises by the Gothic Cathedral. In contrast to many coworking spaces, they focus on long-term professionals and companies who need a disturbance-free space with their own desk and storage facilities, along with their own key for 24 hour, seven days a week access. The space is open-plan and fully furnished. They provide: desk, chair, under-desk cabinet, shelving, fiber optic wireless internet connection, laser printers, photocopy, scanner, shared meeting area with sofa and 40 inch television for presentations. M. 677 738 860

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BCN airport Pick-Ups - TRANSPORT

Mrs.Q Design Studio GRAPHIC DESIGN


M. 699 260 938 Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio

Step Up With V - CAREER COACHING Coaching services for global-minded professionals who want to take their career (and life!) to the next level. Find clarity, purpose and focus, and create your ideal work-life balance. Develop confidence, leverage your strengths and unique value proposition, communicate effectively and increase your opportunities! First consultation free of charge. CALL FOR A FREE CONSULATAION

M. 619 022 676

Garment Printing - BUSINESS


Garment Printing is a printing company based in Barcelona and the UK. They offer printed clothing with personalised logos for fashion brands, staff uniforms and promotional clothing. Printed promotional products, such as flyers, business cards, printed pens, and banners are also available—anything you could want customised with a logo! whether you’re a business or an individual, we can help you fulfil your branding and printing needs. Contact them today. Garment Printing

Reach a Spanish level that best fits your interests and needs! Coral is a native, experienced and highly-qualified teacher. Try her personalised courses, which use effective methods to make learning easy. All levels; private or small groups. For a private, 60-min class €25; 90-min class €35.

C/ Roger De Flor, 289 T. 93 393 8194

Fábrica de Flyers - BUSINESS Fábrica de Flyers brings the successful concept of high class printing and design to Barcelona at competitive prices and provides a quality service to match. Eight years of experience on the German market made them one of the leading printing agencies, with clients all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Fábrica de Flyers is not an advertisment agency, but the best partner to create your publicity!

Pujades 74-80, 3º 7ª, 08005 T. 93 485 6422

Mac in Barcelona COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience. Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background. Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience. MOB / Bailen 11, Bajos, 08010 M. 608 994 599

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If you have friends or family visiting Barcelona, we offer an easy airport pick-up and drop-off service for up to 6 passengers. we are also available for ikea runs and house moves. Email us your journey details for an instant quote.

Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services.Contact Mrs.Q for their competitive business packages which includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. They specialise in bespoke invitations for weddings and special occasions. Visit their Etsy page to see examples for their work www.etsy. com/shop/MrsQdesignstudio.

M. 676 249 744

Home orden Frustrated with the mess in your home? Have no time? Don’t know where to start? Moving soon? Just moved in? My goal is to help you get your place in order and implement strategies to stay organised. we can work side by side or I can work alone, for a one off project or over a longer period according to your needs. FIRST CONSULATAION FREE

M. 625 204 328

CIBERVIRREINA - COMPUTER SERVICE Open until 11pm every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal files and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). Metro L3 (Fontana) or L4 (Joanic) T. 93 368 5770

BritSat - SATELLITE TV Missing out on British TV? Not to worry. with our latest equipment, extensive experience and fantastic after-sales service, we provide all UK and European TV via satellite and Internet installations. So don’t miss out on all the summer sporting action, including wimbledon, Euro ‘16 and the Rio Olympics. Phone or email Britsat for a competitive quote and expert advice. M. 649 605 917

ibex - INSURANCE SERVICES Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar, they can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more. T. 90 010 2527

aDVerTiSe BoTH Here aND iN oUr oNliNe DireCTorY FroM €50/MoNTH

For more details email:

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Coccinelle - HOME SERVICES

oak House - SCHOOL

Do you need a nanny, housekeeper or chauffeur? Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and the surrounding areas. Due to their expertise and rigorous selection methods, they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent or temporary positions to suit your needs. you can arrange everything now from the comfort of your own home! Call them today and quote Metropolitan free consultation.

Founded in 1968, pupils at Oak House are taught according to the UK national curriculum in early years and primary education. Secondary pupils follow a multilingual programme, with a firm emphasis on English. Oak House offers IGCSE qualifications to help prepare students for university courses in English. The school also offers the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme in English, as well as the National Bachillerato programme. The school’s modern installations are conducive to an active learning style. Their motto is ‘building futures’.

T. 93 125 8626

Sant Pere Claver 12-18, 08017 T. 93 252 40 20

Nie Barcelona

Corsa international


- DRIVING SCHOOL NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license or car registration.

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324

M. 603 209 403

la Dolce Vita ITALIAN FASHION This new shop located in Born has exclusive Italian fashion (items of design, comfort, elegance and quality, made in Italy). They can offer advice on how to dress according to your figure and the occasion, highlighting your strengths to help you choose the most suitable clothes.

Ronda de Sant Pere 54 T. 93 518 4773 Metro: Urquinaona (L1 & L4) Arc de Triomf (L1) Facebook ladolcevitamodahombre Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

Handyman - HOME SERVICES Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place so you can get your “fianza” back from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.

M. 645 691 475 Facebook handymanbarcelona74

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BCN l.i.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591

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DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS

COACHING COLUMN SAM SAYS... DON’T MAKE RASH DECISIONS Dear Sam, I’m wondering if I should invest in property in Barcelona. Lately everyone I speak to says that now is the time to buy, as prices are slowly creeping up but they’re still low enough where you can get good ‘bang for your buck’. I’m interested yet hesitant for several reasons: 1: I don’t know anything about property 2: If I decided to go ahead with it, I wouldn’t know where to begin 3: I’m not really sure it’s the best use of my money Any words of wisdom or insights into this would be wonderful. Thanks so much for your help. Property ‘Phobe’ Dear Property Phobe, This is one of my favourite topics, so thanks for bringing it to the ‘table’. I’ll preface this answer however, by saying that by no means am I an authority on the subject. A little while ago I researched and wrote an in-depth article about property in Barcelona ( real-estate-barcelona/), so I’m going to base much of my response on what I uncovered speaking to experts at the time. I’ll start by saying that your concerns are valid. This is a big decision and it’s great that you’re asking questions. With regards to your first query, whether or not you know much about property shouldn’t act as a hindrance. Like so many things in life, if you surround yourself with people who are immersed in the industry, who are authorities on the subject and whom you trust, you’ll become a bit of a connoisseur yourself. In terms of where to start, I’d say that the first thing you need to do is to answer the question: What is the point of buying property? What are you going to use it for? Would this property be for you to live in, or to rent out, or to buy, flip and then sell? The answer to this will largely set the course for the rest of your ‘real estate journey’. If you want to invest in a place but have no desire to live there, the requirements for what you need will most likely differ than if you wanted to call it home. This question also forces you to look into the future. Many people buy to invest for the long term, meaning that they want to buy something fairly cheap now, hoping that in 15-20 years, it’ll go up in value. This means that they don’t need to live in it and they’re ok tying up some of their money for an extended period of time. So before putting down a deposit, it might be a good exercise to look at where you see yourself in the coming six months, the next year, even the next five years, to help direct your decisions. With regards to whether or not this is the best use of your money, that’s a subjective question. If only we had a magic 8 ball. The closest thing to that however, is using a good real estate company and/or surrounding yourself with people who understand the current state of the market and who have had experience with property buying. Speak to as many people as you can, ask questions, compare answers and do your due diligence. The general consensus is that property is usually a very solid investment, but again it depends on what you’re investing in and what your short and long-term goals are both surrounding the property itself and your life on a whole. There’s a great book called The Wealthy Barber ( It’s not solely about real estate, but it has a chapter in it that is extremely insightful. The book also touches on finances in general and how to determine what the right financial decisions are for you and your lifestyle. Before you make any decisions, I’d encourage you to keep asking questions and gain as much information from as many reliable people as you can. The more you know, the more you have to work with and the better choices you’ll be able to make.

Sam Mednick is a professional Life and Executive Coach based in Barcelona (www. A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years, working with companies as well as individuals, focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity, as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into her Podcast:

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Photo by Patricia Esteve

Richard Schweid



My new book is called Invisible Nation and is about homeless families in America. Two and a half million children in the US are growing up in conditions defined as homeless. Kids are living with their families in shelters, motels and cars. The book is about how the problem of extreme poverty in the States has worsened and how the government has responded to this. I started writing Invisible Nation in 2002. People confuse chronically homeless individuals with homeless families. Most of the time, in the case of families, the issues are strictly economic. You don’t see these families on the street. They are scared the state will take their children so they stay hidden. The federal government recommends people spend 30 percent of their income on rent. In order to do that in Boston you have to make $18.50 per hour. The minimum wage is around nine dollars. A lot of people work 40 hours a week with no sick leave, no benefits, no time off, and they can’t afford to rent a place to live. When I became aware of what was going on, I could hardly believe there were so many homeless families. I decided to write a book about it as that’s all I know how to do. Invisible Nation is available on

By Ben Rowdon


I was living in Formentera in 1968. It was a different place then. There was just one phone on the whole island and there were hardly any cars. When you arrived you had to go to a little guardia civil shack and hand over your passport. When you were ready to leave, they would give it back to you. They knew who was on the island at all times. Barcelona was where you’d get the ferry to Ibiza to get to Formentera. It was also where you had to come to cash travellers cheques, so every so often I would make the journey over. It was dirt cheap to get a chair on the ferry. I would stay in a pensión down behind Plaça Reial and rarely wander beyond Plaça Catalunya. It was certainly a different ambience nearly 50 years ago. I was in Formentera in February 1981 when the attempted coup took place. I remember I was in a bar when it came on the radio that Valencia had fallen. Citizens were instructed to go back to their homes. People began to cry in the bar then went on their way. I remember thinking that this is how life must have been under a dictatorship. I travelled to Barcelona a lot until finally settling here in 1995. I came here in 1991 to report on the Olympics. I was writing a book about Barcelona called Jews, Transvestites and an Olympic Season, about changing sexual habits in the city. I saw your ad on the bulletin board of the Come In bookshop window for an editor and got in touch. We met for a coffee in the Zurich. That was a different place back then too. I got a lot of pleasure out of editing Metropolitan and it really helped my relationship with the city. Whenever I walked around and saw something interesting, I could assign it as a story and find out more about it. In retrospect I like how many people we’ve helped in the city, by being a reliable resource. A lot of our writers and photographers also went on to make a name for themselves and that has been good to see too. It was a long struggle getting the magazine going. We knew very little about publishing a magazine and essentially had to learn everything on the fly. We met a lot of great people who helped us out. From the beginning we decided to adhere to Anglo Saxon editorial standards, which meant that we didn’t sell editorial content to advertisers. That was a novelty for many companies here and made it hard for us during the first few years. Architecturally, the same things continue to delight me as when I first came here. My gym is at the bottom of the Rambla. The other day I was looking at the entranceway to Nou de la Rambla, where that Kentucky bar has been forever. You look down that street and it’s such a beautiful view. It doesn’t look like somewhere that has international chain stores and commerce. It looks like another time, another place. Some things never change. Forty years ago there was good cheap public transport. That’s still the way. It’s much better than many other European cities. And sitting out on a bar’s terrace in the sun is still a pleasure. Now, I divide my time between Barcelona and Rhode Island.


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Barcelona metropolitan 239  
Barcelona metropolitan 239