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Palo Alto market celebrates its 2nd birthday


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• Thursday November 24th 2016 •

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METROPOLITAN contributors


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New in Town In the City A Place of My Own Fashion Travel Food & Drink Coaching Column Interview

PRIYANKAA JOSHI Originally from Bristol in the UK, Priyankaa studied Spanish at the University of Birmingham. As part of her degree course, she spent her year abroad living in Barcelona and fell in love with the city. After graduating, she moved back to Barcelona to teach English, practise her language skills, wander through the city’s narrow streets and sample its gastronomic delights. Since working as an Editorial Assistant at Barcelona Metropolitan, Priyankaa has enjoyed exploring the city and meeting its people.

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Music Art Misc. Pullout Calendar

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Food & Drink Health & Beauty Business Jobs

SAM WALKER-SMART has always been a film fanatic, eventually earning a degree in the subject in 2010. Also possessing a passion for a good tale, Sam soon started writing for publications such as Little White Lies and CLASH Magazine in the UK, interviewing and reviewing artists and groups of various genres. Having recently moved to Barcelona, he now spends his time exploring the city and enjoying the first-rate cafe culture and atmosphere.


Features 12 rePOrt: CItY INK Sam Walker-Smart takes a look at Barcelona’s flourishing tattoo culture. 18 FaCt NOt FICtION Despite the challenges, Barcelona is home to many dedicated documentary filmmakers. 29 PaLO aLtO The arts and design market turns two this month. 30 CONCrete HeaVeN Smooth urban architecture keeps skaters coming back for more. 34 ruta DeL XatO Culture, tradition and local rivalry are all key ingredients in the Xató salad.

Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Managing Director Andrea Moreno Consulting Editor Esther Jones Editor Carol Moran Assistant Editor Rachel Huffman Art Director Aisling Quigley Account Executives Jalil Alui, Richard Cardwell Sales Assistants Jairo Rieder, Sarah Yaagoub Editorial Assistants Aminah Barnes, Sally Hargraves, Priyankaa Joshi, Jessica Williams Design Assistant Annabel Warley Contributors Eimear Corrigan, Miquel Hudin, Melissa Leighty, Sam Mednick, Aron Penczu, Tori Sparks, Tara Stevens, Sam Zucker Photographers Yan Pekar, Annabel Warley Illustrator Ben Rowdon Carrer Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486 Editorial: Advertising: General:

EIMEAR CORRIGAN Dublin native, Eimear, graduated from Trinity College Dublin with a degree in History in 2010. She then went on to work in the fields of education and culture in Lyon, France, before moving to Oxford to work at the Ashmolean Museum of Art and Archaeology. Now in her third year in Barcelona, she divides her time between researching and writing for Metropolitan, teaching and ping pong.

The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96


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COCO VAIL BEER HALL. ARAGÓ 284. Located in the heart of the Eixample, Coco Vail Beer Hall brings something new to the Barcelona bar scene. Once an 18th-century factory, the setting has been transformed into a vibrant and stylish beer hall, popular with both locals and tourists. “It’s the first of its kind,” explained owner Andres. “Barcelona has never had an authentic beer hall before.” The decor combines a modern, polished look with traditional features. Dark wooden beams, imported US beer handles, low-hanging ceiling lights and iconic memorabilia capture the essence of a typical bar in the States, while long wooden tables and benches create a lively atmosphere perfect for socialising after a long day at work. Despite the American-inspired interior, Coco Vail serves only locally brewed beer. “We feel we have to support the local industry as best we can,” said Andres. The signature dish at Coco Vail is a basket of sizzling chicken wings, which come with a choice of 10 sauces, each one inspired by a different country. Also on offer are burgers and the famous pizzcookie, a heavenly dessert that combines warm cookies with ice cream and nuts in the shape of a pizza. The international beer hall successfully elevates the humble pint to a trendier status, combining the heartiness of Catalan beer with the style of the American bar scene.


GONZALEZ & CO. CÒRSEGA 391. Since opening in June, this new, vibrant tex-mex eatery has already made a name for itself thanks to its tasty fare, fast service and laidback atmosphere. As you enter the colourful space with potted cacti adorning the exposed brick walls, enticing smells waft through from the open kitchen. Inspired by renowned American tex-mex chain Chipotle, Gonzalez & Co offers high-quality fast food for a reasonable price, with everything locally sourced, prepared on-site and made to order. The menu spans burritos, tacos, fajitas, quesadillas and nachos. Everything is well-seasoned and served with a variety of homemade toppings and fillings including a fresh and zingy guacamole, earthy frijoles and spicy pico de gallo. Whether you fancy some extra meaty, cheese-smothered nachos or a gluten-free, vegan burrito bowl, there is something here to satisfy every craving. Located between Eixample and Gràcia, Gonzalez & Co is the perfect place to grab lunch to takeaway or enjoy a relaxing evening meal with friends.


SOLOMILLO. MALLORCA 251. Outstanding cuts of meat take centre stage at Solomillo. Customers sample charcuterie boards and pungent, creamy cheeses before enjoying a main dish of the best beef the city has to offer. Pick your breed—Salers, Black Angus Nebraska or Friesian—your weight and your cut. Your choice is then cooked to perfection and, although sauces and garnishes are optional, it easily stands on its own. While the meats, cheeses and fine wines may be of international origin, Solomillo is proud to maintain a strong Spanish connection. All elements of the restaurant’s decor are from the Reunión de Empresas de Diseño (RED), a non-profit platform for Spanish designers and manufacturers developed to promote the use of high-quality local products. From the hanging metal light fixtures and natural wood finish on the floors, to the dark marble bar and glossy ceramic tableware, Solomillo is modern and understated Spanish elegance.


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Stretch your legs, get some fresh air and enjoy the season´s colours.

Parc de Montjuïc Lush foliage and plenty of dry leaves to crunch through make Montjuïc a great place to go for a walk this time of year. The Olympic museum and castle are good stops along the way if you need to rest your legs.

Park Güell The Gaudí park becomes a source of serenity after the summer ends. To make this walk more challenging, hike up to the stone cross, which marks the highest point in the park.

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SOPA PROVENZA. PROVENÇA 330. This new eatery is proof that vegetarian food doesn’t have to be boring. With a focus on microbiotic eating, the ethos at Sopa is ‘healthy, tasty and affordable’. The chain first opened in Madrid over 10 years ago. They also have a Barcelona branch in Poblenou, but the team decided to bring the vegetarian eatery to Eixample to meet the demand for a more central Barcelona location. At this healthy hotspot, the menu changes on a daily basis, using seasonal and local produce whenever possible. For just €9.90, you can choose from a selection of satisfying salads and nourishing soups, followed by a hearty main course such as a veggie burger, chickpea curry or roast vegetable lasagne. The desserts on offer are equally tempting, whether you’re in the mood for a decadent lemon pie or a less sinful vegan brownie. The large, bright space is the ideal spot for a lunch break, leaving you feeling satisfied and nourished rather than heavy and lethargic. Customers are also welcome to bring their laptop and stay for as long as they please.

Tibidabo Enjoy the city’s autumnal landscape from above. The impressive Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor marks the summit of Tibidabo and provides a starting point for a number of walking routes across the Collserola mountain range.

Passeig Marítim Take a gentle stroll along the promenade, breathe in the Mediterranean air and enjoy the last warm rays of sunshine.

Montserrat Reachable by public transport from the city centre, now is the perfect time to work up a sweat among the finger-shaped pinnacles. Hikes and guided tours are available across the rocky mountain range.

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STREETLIFE CARRER DE GUILLEM TELL Running through the heart of Sant Gervasi, this street oozes local spirit, with plenty of shops, cafes and restaurants for whiling away the time.

LE DIVAN. Described by French owner Albane Krenpp as a ‘neighbour’s restaurant’, Le Divan has become a popular haunt in the area. The leading concept behind the French-Mediterranean restaurant is fusion, as observed in the aesthetics, atmosphere and menu. It has a cosy, intimate atmosphere, while the menu offers a blend of the two cuisines in creative dishes, such as their prawn ceviche sweetened with passion fruit and mango. Krenpp is passionate about her choice of products and delivers high-quality ingredients. Specialities like her popular French oysters and foie gras are reasonably priced. Beyond their innovative tapas and mains, Le Divan also offers countless cocktails, and even hosts musical concerts on select evenings.


23 LIADISIMO. This teashop-cafe is the perfect place to disconnect, with dim lighting, soft background music, soothing aromas of brewing herbal teas and a private garden nestled at the back—often frequented by the cafe’s pet cat. Austrian owner Cristina Ras has seen the likes of students, businesspeople, tourists and neighbours since opening over 10 years ago. “I believe people come here for the calming ambience,’ she said. With snacks and seasonal dishes to indulge in whilst enjoying one of their hot drinks, Liadisimo ensures customers are well-fed and content and likely to return time and time again to while away the hours.

FUJI YA. Adorned with decorative bamboo plants and lanterns, Fuji Ya maintains an artistic flair in everything from its decor to the food presentation. Their most popular plates are combination platters, which allow you to try a variety of different dishes in a single night, while the chef can adapt dishes to suit individual customers, as well. Though Fuji Ya’s menu is best enjoyed within the stylish restaurant, takeaways and home deliveries are also an option.




Spring because everything in Barcelona seems to return to life—I get inspired by the colours and the climate of that season in the city.

Celebrating its 30th birthday this year, ABCHumboldt has taught over 40,000 students over the years. Starting from a modest 45 square metres, the school now occupies six floors dedicated to language learning, a library, ICT facilities and a roof terrace overlooking the city. The school was originally named after intellect Wilhelm von Humboldt, who founded the University of Berlin, and therefore specialises in German courses, while offering Spanish and English lessons too. Director Klaus Schumacher says the school ‘seeks to find the best solutions for customers’, offering a wide variety of courses to enable students to select the appropriate programme to meet their needs.



I would say either summer, because you can make the most of the beach, or winter, because there are less tourists.


Definitely summer. The weather is so much better than back in Poland, which is actually why I decided to move here.


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CACAO’S GELATO SICILIANO. Famous for its homemade gelato, Sicily is also home to a wealth of other delicious delicacies, such as cannolis, sfoglia di ricotta and granita. At Cacao’s, you can savour them all. The shop’s charismatic Sicilian owner, Pietro Mandraffino, refers to himself as the ‘ice chef’. His passion for authenticity and quality ingredients is apparent in the sumptuous and bold flavours of the gelato he serves, such as dark chocolate and orange, lemon and basil, and traditional cassata. Where Mandraffino’s recipes originated, in southern Italy, the warm temperatures call for low-fat cream and fresh fruit as opposed to flavoured syrups, making for more intense and zesty granita. Local fans can also reserve space at Cacao for their birthday or group parties.


53 XURRERIA XOCOLATERIA CENTRE. This small cafe run by Colombian manager Humberto Q specialises in serving traditional churros with hot chocolate to busy locals. It opens at 6am to cater to people on their way to work, and fills with regulars who relish the atmosphere and conversation. Humberto Q, often spotted making the churros behind the bar, claims that the Xurreria channels the barrio’s tradition of snacking while socialising, creating the perfect spot for friends and family to meet and satisfy their sweet tooth.



Spring is my favourite season— you can start wearing less clothes, the flowers blossom and so do the people throughout the city.

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ave you happened to see a man rolling down the street balancing a palm tree on one end of his skateboard? Maybe you’ve noticed a couple loading themselves up with dresser drawers that were destined for the dump? If so, don’t worry, they’re not crazy, they’re resourceful. Gordana, who was born in Bosnia but lived in the United States for 18 years, and Julien, from France, embody a lifestyle in which not everything has to be perfect. As Gordana explained, “A paint splatter, a knick, a tear, it’s all welcome.” Those details fuel their imagination. “We think about what the previous owner was painting, or what was dropped on a table to knick it like that. With secondhand furnishings, there’s always a story to be told.” This is exactly why the couple spend so much of their free time roaming the streets of Barcelona, piling salvageable items on their skateboards and giving them a new life in their apartment. “We don’t feel the need to buy new things when old things can be remodelled and look cooler than a perfect, store-bought replica,” they both agreed. In a sense, collecting street pieces has become a game. “We have a list of the date and the street, when and where we found everything in our apartment,” Julien said. “It’s nice to reminisce about how certain things came to be here.” Upon moving to Barcelona a little over a year ago, Gordana and Julien found their apartment on a quiet street in the Born, where the smells from a local bakery waft into the wide open doors of their bedroom. Although the apartment had been abandoned, they saw its potential to


become a home. They began by removing the arches over the doors and working on the walls. In some areas, they exposed the different layers of paint that had consecutively covered the plaster. “We love discerning the history of the apartment in this way,” said Gordana.

“We don’t feel the need to buy new things when old things can be remodelled and look cooler than a perfect, store-bought replica” The biggest hurdle of their apartment project was the kitchen. “We started from nothing,” Julien said earnestly, so they considered what they already had in their possession. Discarded dressers became their kitchen drawers. On top of those, table legs prop up a repainted kitchen counter. Individual drawers are attached to the wall to hold jars, canisters and bottles. And a well-placed nightstand masks the butano gas bottle. The room is now the best example of Gordana and Julien’s ingenuity in repurposing used things. The rest of the space is no less impressive. Empty picture frames hang on their bedroom wall—a simple, yet stylistic touch—and the balconies are lined with ‘rescued plants’. A ladder, with no purpose other than to become a bookshelf, stretches out in the hall, over a stack of decorative suitcases. “We’re constantly

The ‘dining office’ where their imagination runs wild.

If you have made yourself an interesting home from home and would like to appear in our Place of My Own feature, please send an email to

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collecting books,” Gordana said. “I can’t bear to see them trashed, which means we’re going to need to convert another ladder pretty soon.” In the ‘dining office’, where all the ideas and work for their company Wabi Sabi Lifestyle Co. unfolds, there is another reclaimed piece that draws attention. Outside of Barcelona one day, Julien came across a church pew thrown out on the curb. He knew with a few seat cushions it would make an excellent bench, so he carried it for 45 minutes, by himself, to the car. “At one point I stopped to rest next to a bus stop,” he said with a chuckle. “Everyone sitting there, waiting, couldn’t help but laugh at me because it looked like I had brought my own seating for the occasion.” One of the best parts of this ‘game’ they play is coming home with stories like that. When you step back and take it all in, every one of their creative redesigns of spoils retrieved from a late night scavenger hunt, every book, drawer and chair, all come together to make the perfectly imperfect setting of Gordana and Julien’s place.

Old dressers, which they converted into kitchen cabinets.

re their s wild.

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arcelona is a feast for the eyes. Take a casual wander around the city and you’ll see iconic paving stones, majestic cathedrals and architecture of such creativity that it’s still taught around the world today. Still, some of its most contemporary and dazzling artwork is mobile, found on the skin of the city’s inhabitants. Barcelona’s tattoo scene is thriving and boasts a reputation to match some of the world’s most cosmopolitan and trendsetting cities. Anyone who’s stayed here longer than a weekend can’t help but notice the sheer volume of tattooed folks filling the cafes, bars and skate spots. And behind the trend are a host of people who pay their rent with passion—the artists, salon owners and event organisers responsible for the city’s growing status in the world of ink. Metropolitan spoke to three professionals immersed in the tattoo world. Flavia Romano of Flav Ink originally hails from Italy. Her creative tendencies were encouraged by her artist parents, but legitimate worries about the likelihood of a successful career in art put her off pursuing such a path. That was until a friend suggested tattooing. After a short course and some practice on pig skin, she was away. “When I felt confident enough I put up a poster at my workplace advertising that I was looking for volunteers to practise on,” she said. “Surprisingly, quite a few people called me. I really thought that no one would since I had made it very clear that I had just started tattooing.” After four months of practice and freebies, Flavia upgraded to a fine German rotary machine and now has a steady stream of paying customers through positive word of mouth, something she feels is essential for a tattooist. “I think Barcelona is one of the top cities to get tattooed in for many reasons.” she explained. “Firstly, there are many tourists here, as well as people who stay for a couple of months and want to create a permanent memory of their stay in Barcelona. Secondly, I think Barcelona is very liberal and laid-back, and street art is almost everywhere.” It’s no secret that the number of under-40s opting to get tattoos has risen significantly in the past two decades. This is in part thanks to a diminished sense of taboo and to traditional career paths being replaced with a more flexible job market. Recent surveys go so far as to suggest that one in three young adults in both the UK and the US are sporting ink. Flavia said, “My customers come from all backgrounds, but most of them have studied and many have qualified jobs, so they don’t fit the ‘bad boy’ profile.” That’s not to say that the sense of the ‘prohibited’ associated with the culture has completely disappeared. “I still have many customers who ask me not to tag them on Instagram or Facebook because they are afraid their parents will see the fresh tattoo and get angry,” she continued. “Not that they won’t find out eventually, but there is a residual fear of not meeting your parents’ expectations because of having a tattoo.” As for Flavia herself, despite a growing list of fans and a passion for the craft, she felt the need to explain some of the pitfalls of being a tattooist in

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Spain. “Working as a tattoo artist is a lot more difficult than many people think. Unless you have connections with someone who already works in a parlour, you will have to start at the beginning, as a tattoo apprentice. The problem is that most parlours are only looking for apprentices with more than two years of experience. But I ask you: Should an artist with two years of experience still be considered an apprentice?” She also mentioned the notorious costs of working in a more autonomous fashion. “In most cases you are required to have a certificate to be self-employed, which costs about €300 a month—an expense you can only afford if you get a fair amount of customers each day, which is certainly not guaranteed. On top of that, the parlour will get 30 to 50 percent of the actual price paid by the customer, so when you do the sums at the end of the month, it might not be so worth it.” It seems tattooing may not be such an easy world to break into, but Flavia noted that the rules of success are simple. “The secret formula is to keep practising and experimenting, stay up-to-date with the latest trends, follow the best artists, and be confident in what you do. And, of course, understand your customers and treat them well.”

Barcelona is home to a huge amount of foreign tattoo artists, something which has helped it become one of the biggest destinations for tattoo-related travel and tourism

Oxytocina Tattoo on Carrer del Comte d'Urgell is run by Michelle S. Gorr and her husband, Matt. Moving from the US to Barcelona especially to open the studio, Michelle and Matt have spent years in the tattoo world. Living for a while in both Italy and the US, Matt previously worked for acclaimed Off The Wall Studio, who’ve partnered with scene star Jeff Gogue. “A lot of what we’re trying to bring to Barcelona are things we’ve learned from our experiences and the different places we’ve been to,” said Michelle. “The thing with Barcelona is that it’s such a touristy city that you may see a lot of people with tattoos, but they aren’t necessarily from here. It’s a city where people are open-minded and you see a bit of everything, but I think people actually from Catalunya are a little forced into being exposed to those things.” Reflecting the city’s international makeup, all of Oxytocina’s artists, and much of its clientele, are from outside of Spain. Michelle explained some of the biggest hurdles she faces as a studio owner: “Something we struggle with every day is that people from here don’t necessarily consider the quality

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The Barcelona Tattoo Expo provides plenty of opportunities to get tattooed by artists from around the world.

of a service. They just want to get tattooed because it’s becoming more and more popular.” She noted that “here so many people are operating out of their homes. They don’t respect rules and offer cheaper prices, so we’ve had loads of competition, not really from other shops, but from people doing stuff from their apartments.” When she encounters interested clients, she finds herself having to force them to look at their portfolio. “I have to go, ‘look at the quality!’” she said. “We know how good our product is. Take a look, be amazed!” At the end of the day, Michelle’s main aim is to push tattooing as an art form and encourage people to really plan their piece. Michelle also described how social media has changed the game. People’s understanding of an artist’s work and their ability to source a good studio is aided by these visual mediums. It’s something she feels is only beginning to be utilised locally. “People are now online looking for great art and artists, finding the right artists who specialise in certain areas and have awesome tattoos themselves. They are understanding that this isn’t just ‘something you get done’,” she said. “We’re excited because we’re here for the beginning of that, and if we’re patient enough, we’ll be here when things get ‘real’.” She mentioned how this progression has really helped Oxytocina. “We’ve realised that what makes our shop different is that we get all these customers from other countries who are in Barcelona specifically to get tattooed. They research the hottest spots around town and find us. It wasn’t our marketing plan initially, but I’m glad it’s happening. People are getting good pieces and they’re not complaining about prices. They’ve done their homework, looked at the reviews, and in turn, they leave with good results.” Mik Garreta, one of the local tattoo industry’s most prominent figures, organises the Barcelona Tattoo Expo, the jewel in the culture’s annual calendar. The expo was launched in 1996 with the goal of promoting a positive outlook on tattooing within the city. “The initial idea came from a sense of admiration towards artists we met on our travels and a desire to bring them together in one of the most modern and cosmopolitan places

in Spain,” said Mik. Mik and the expo have witnessed huge changes over the past two decades. “Historically in Spain, tattoos were viewed as adornments for criminals and low lives, but now they are much more accepted.” He explained that “now there are an infinite number of designs, not only of popular and fashionable imagery, but designs using a fantastic variety of artistic expressions and styles from disciplines including traditional, neo-traditional, Japanese and more.” Despite the city’s fierce independent streak, after a long history of oppression, Mik said that designs with political connotations aren’t all that popular.

"My main piece of advice for anyone thinking about getting their first tattoo would be to do your research and think carefully about what you want, as it is a piece of artwork that will be with you for the rest of your life" “Barcelona and Madrid are the most important tattoo cities in Spain,” he continued. Mik thinks it’s their multicultural quality that brings them such success. “Compared to most other cities in Europe, Barcelona is home to a huge amount of foreign tattoo artists, something which has helped it become one of the biggest destinations for tattoo-related travel and tourism.” As for the expo itself, artists and attendees come from places such as Borneo, Japan, Korea, Thailand and the US.


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Mik believes that tattoo tourism has brought cultural and financial benefits to the city. “The effect that tattoo tourism has had on the industry and its acceptance in Barcelona is huge,” he said. “Now that more tattoo enthusiasts are travelling here to get work done, local people understand tattoos as part of the city’s culture, whether they want them to be or not. They’ve come to accept them as a normal part of everyday life.” One negative effect that Mik mentioned, however, is the swell in the number of people getting tattoos paying homage to Barcelona—images such as Gaudí dragons, the flower of Barcelona and even the Sagrada Família. Beyond the artistry itself, Mik pointed out that the way in which tattoos are given has been key to people’s changing perceptions. “In the past, materials were sterilised after each use in order to be reused, with the exception of needles, which were disposed of immediately. Whereas today, the majority of people are working with single-use, disposable materials.” Another factor has been the inks themselves. “Thirty years ago there was only a small range of colours available, no more than 13. Now there are different ranges of inks, with up to 100 different colours available in each range.” If you’re thinking of heading to a future expo or local parlour for your first piece, Mik had some sage advice. “My main piece of advice for anyone thinking about getting their first tattoo would be to do your research and think carefully about what you want, as it is a piece of artwork that will be with you for the rest of your life.” With so many great tattoo artists in Barcelona the choices are almost endless. So, follow our experts’ advice, know yourself and find the artist who will best bring your personal piece of art to life.”


We asked attendees at the Barcelona Tattoo Expo what inspired their first tattoo.

PETER 31, ENGLAND Originally, I wanted a pink bow, but the artist talked me out of that idea, so I got the skull. This was at a time when graffiti-style tattoos were prominent, and I was inspired a lot by what I was seeing around me.

KATIE 26, SCOTLAND My first tattoo was an album cover drawn by artist Aseo Andrews. It's not actually finished because the tattoo artist was incredibly slow and I had a train to catch!

SELVA 31, BARCELONA My boyfriend is a tattoo artist. He started this orientalthemed one on my back because it's my favourite style.


Writer Sam at the Barcelona Tattoo Expo doing research for this article.

I open up and tend to bond with people as quickly as someone would undo a zip. That's what initially influenced my tattoo. I added in the alien to represent my weird side.


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t first glance, Barcelona’s documentar y-making scene may seem tangled, opaque and characterised by paradoxes. It’s Spain’s largest filmmaking hub but dwarfed by French and German equivalents; vulnerable to slumps in public funding, but swollen (at least in volume) by the economic crisis; typified by both modest, regionallyfocused films and international co-productions. It is also in flux. At the moment, over half of all Spanish documentaries are made in Barcelona, and the city’s documentary ecosystem —its film festivals, production companies, freelancers, TV programmes, funding bodies and other institutions—outweighs Madrid’s. But the country’s recent financial crisis pushed many involved in filmmaking to breaking point. For individuals this means precarity, working other jobs and the growing attraction of other cities. At the collective level it erodes Barcelona’s competitiveness and production quality. Cosima Dannoritzer is a German director and co-founder of the Barcelona Documentary Club (its monthly meetings are a key meeting place for the community). She says that unlike France or England, Spain lacks a class of nine-to-five factual filmmakers. Wages are so low and funding so scarce that it’s nearly impossible to make a living here from documentaries alone, and the people who persist anyway do it because they believe in it, not because it pays the bills. Most of these people support themselves with work in

other fields and genres. And the scene’s healthy internationalism owes more to Barcelona’s quality of life than its accessibility. Spanish is essential and Catalan, if rarely a strict requisite, is an advantage. Not surprisingly, few of the international filmmakers Metropolitan spoke to began their careers here. Like other expats, they tend to have arrived with experience and contacts already in place, and many have profited from the connections they have outside Spain. They cite compensations for local challenges, such as the good weather, the sea and the low cost of living. Producer Marieke van der Bersselaar, who arrived here from Holland 12 years ago, also mentions a new found freedom to plan on the spur of the moment. The local culture may have challenges but it carries benefits too. There are two basic economic models for producing documentaries in Barcelona, each accounting for about half the 40 or so films made annually. The first category consists of small, regionally-focused films, whose budgets usually start around €60K and rarely exceed €120K. In the second are comparatively large coproductions, with budgets ranging from €250K to €600K, which take longer to complete. “The imperative to seek money abroad,” explained producer Bettina Walter, “is rooted in the shrinking pool of local funds, and reinforced by the European Union’s MEDIA programme, which incentivises projects with multinational stakeholders.” One of Walter’s recent films, Google and the World Brain, was made with the help of TV channels in eight countries. Although

this funding environment produces good films—Google and the World Brain premiered at Sundance—it also means comparatively few ambitious projects get the green light, and the need for transnational appeal can sap their specificity and diversity. At the other end of the scale are films whose budgets place real constraints on creative freedom. The middle ground, as in fiction, is being excised.

If, as Claveria predicts, funding remains at its present level, Barcelona may “stop being a point of reference for the documentary film industry”

Part of the problem is that there’s only one prime-time television slot for documentaries in Spain: Sense Ficciò, which runs on TV3. This makes the channel “the great motor of the local documentary industry,” in the words of Mariona Claveria, who represents documentarymakers’ interests through an association called PRO-DOCS. Sense Ficciò’s founder and director, Joan Salvat, argues that the programme has changed the way documentaries are perceived in


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Catalunya. Averaging around 250,000 viewers— more during primetime—it refutes the common perception of documentaries as a minority interest. But the umbrella budget for TV3 and Catalunya Ràdio together was cut drastically from €466 million in 2009 to below €300 million in 2014, and has yet to recover. As Claveria points out, “TV3 is now in a difficult situation both economically and in terms of content.” She calls for its funding to be restored and for greater support for documentaries as a distinctive art form. Many echo her claims. “If I were 20 today,” said Bettina Walter, “I wouldn’t go to Spain to produce documentaries. We’re heading for desertification.” There is a consensus among people in the local documentary-making industry that there should be more prime-time TV slots for the genre. Documentaries exist in a complex, evolving ecosystem determined in part by consumer habits, and on this front at least there’s reason for optimism. Juan Gonzàlez, director of DocsBarcelona film festival, believes we’re living a “golden moment” in terms of interest in documentaries. DocsBarcelona has grown steadily since its inception 20 years ago; its offshoots include sister festivals in Colombia and Chile as well as the DocsBarcelona del Mes initiative, which screens documentaries at 79 theatres worldwide. Across its platforms DocsBarcelona reached 50,000 viewers in Spain in the first half of 2016. Sense Ficciò also regularly leads viewership— the recent Xavier Cugat documentary secured 17 percent of the audience and 460,000 viewers. Gonzàlez also points to the variety of sensibilities catered to by production companies and universities in Barcelona—the Universitat Pompeu Fabra’s master in creative documentary is particularly well-regarded—as signs of rude health. But growing audience engagement hasn’t yet changed the unprofitability of documentaries. If, as Claveria predicts, funding remains at its present level, Barcelona may “stop being a point of reference for the documentary film industry.” Attitudes towards documentaries are, ultimately, attitudes about the kind of society we want to live in. Bettina Walter underlines their importance in a climate of growing right wing populism. Salvat speaks of the duty of public broadcasters to work for the common interest, and others talk about the civic or democratic use of documentaries. The conclusion that they deserve public support is too simple without qualification, but it’s also surprising that a region so invested in culture and the arts should neglect this key instrument for society’s reflection on itself. For the moment, of course, embattled as they might feel, Barcelona’s documentary-makers get to follow their passion and believe in the intrinsic worth of what they do. And, in that regard at least, they’re part of a lucky few.

DOCUMENTARY FILM FESTIVALS IN BARCELONA Beefeater In-Edit October 27th-November 6th 2016 Musical documentaries

DocsBarcelona May 2017

Moritz Feed Dog March 2017 Fashion, culture and city

An e-waste dumpsite in Ghana, shown in Cosima Dannoritzer’s documentary The Lightbulb Conspiracy (2010)


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MUSIC CONCERT LISTINGS 1st. The Kills Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 2nd. The Vamps BARTS. Paral•lel 62. 2nd. Magnolia Shoals Antigua Fàbrica Estrella Damn. Rosselló 515. 3rd. Lianne La Havas Casino l’Aliança del Poblenou. Rambla del Poblenou 42. 4th. Digitalism Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 6th. Wooden Shjips Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 8th. Kate Tempest Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 10th. Blossoms L’Auditori. Carrer Lepant 150. 11th-12th. Al Ras Bluegrass Festival Plaça Prat de la Riba 6. 13th. Cœur de Pirate Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 14th. Allah-Las Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 16th. White Lies Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 16th. Girl Band Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 17th. Kongos Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 20th. The Pixies Sant Jordi Club. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 22nd. Justin Bieber Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 25th. Pajaro Sunrise Marula Café. Escudellers 49. 26th. The Cure Palau Sant Jordi. Passeig Olìmpic 5-7. 28th. Zu BeGood Club. Sancho de Ávila 78.


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CŒUR DE PIRATE. SALA BIKINI. DIAGONAL 547. NOVEMBER 13TH. Canadian singer-songwriter, Béatrice Martin, better known as Cœur de Pirate, has released her third album in almost four years. With each album, Martin unveils a new element of her talent. Starting the piano at the tender age of three, she was trained at the Québec Conservatory of Music in Montréal. By the time she reached her teens she was experimenting with a more rebellious style of music, joining a post hard-core band. Beginning in 2007, her solo career as Cœur de Pirate brought her eclectic range of musical styles and her abilities as a lyricist and pianist to a larger audience. Her eponymous debut album, released in 2008, hit the indie-pop scene with a bang, winning international acclaim and selling over one million copies. The second, Blonde (2011), is filled with jazzy sounds, beautiful piano and poetic French vocals. Many of the featured songs have a Sixties vibe, harking back to the days of Françoise Hardy and Brigitte Bardot. ‘Place de la Republique’ however is a modern masterpiece, a piano ballad filled with timeless beauty. Her most recent album, Roses (2015), suggests a higher production input, with more electronic sounds and less rawness. Songs such as ‘Oceans Brawl’ and ‘Tu oublieras mon nom’, resemble the styles featured on previous works, whilst ‘Oublie-moi (Carry on)’ gives an insight into the new direction Martin is taking. Moving her away from the Francophone world of music, it is hoped that this album will give Cœur de Pirate the recognition she deserves.


THE PIXIES. SANT JORDI CLUB. PASSEIG OLÍMPIC 5-7. NOVEMBER 20TH. The Pixies are back with their latest album, Head Carrier (2016), their second record sans bassist Kim Deal. Following a couple of lineup changes, the band have settled on Paz Lenchantin as Deal’s replacement. Lenchantin is well-known from her time as bassist in Zwan, a band started by Smashing Pumpkins’ frontman Billy Corgan in 2001. Although it’s hard to live up to the high standards set by Deal and her signature backing vocals, Lenchantin has been making a good go of bringing her own unique style to the band. Diehard fans should not be put off by lineup changes as set lists are said to be full of old classics, including ‘Bone Machine’, ‘Levitate Me’ and ‘Here Comes Your Man’. New single, ‘Um Chagga Lagga’ is sure to get heads banging. NME’s claim that ‘you’ll struggle to find a better collection of indie rock songs this year’ is an encouraging reason to go and see what is arguably one of the most influential bands of the early Nineties.


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JUSTIN BIEBER. PALAU SANT JORDI. PASSEIG OLÍMPIC 5-7. NOVEMBER 22TH. Palau Sant Jordi is pulling out all the stops this month with something on the lineup for everyone. As The Cure get their makeup on in preparation for Saturday night’s show, Justin Bieber will be warming up the stage and many a fan’s heart. The Purpose World Tour, which kicked off in Berlin earlier this year, is a chance for fans to see Bieber perform material from his latest album, Purpose (2015), live on stage. Chart-topping hits including ‘Sorry’, produced by Skrillex and Blood, will fill the arena and get fans moving. Taking place on a Tuesday night, there are sure to be some tired faces at school and work the next morning.


THE CURE. PALAU SANT JORDI. PASSEIG OLÍMPIC 5-7. NOVEMBER 26TH. With a career stretching over 37 years and a huge repertoire of songs, The Cure have captured the souls of fans, young and old, since their emergence in West Sussex in the late Seventies. Their gothic appearance could deceptively lead music fans to think they are all doom and gloom, however, behind the ghostly, sullen image are poets and musicians who have produced some of the most capturing love ballads and catchiest pop songs ever written. Three Imaginary Boys (1979) is evidence of their ability to compose pop with a sullen edge, whereas Disintegration (1989) shows the darker side of the band’s talents. Despite the years and numerous lineup changes, their sound is as well preserved as Robert Smith’s hair. In recent years, the band has only opted for festivals, making the Palau Sant Jordi show a real treat for any Cure Heads who are yet to have the honour of seeing them in a concert setting. Sets are rumoured to stretch to 32 songs long, with plenty of new material alongside the classics.


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ART OPENINGS MUSEU PICASSO Mitologías, Obra Gráfica en la colección del museo This exhibition showcases Picasso’s works based on his interest in mythology. Engravings and prints recreating scenes and characters from the mythological world, using various techniques including etching, aquaprint and lithology will be on display. Opens November 24th. Montcada 15-23.


WORLD PRESS PHOTO. CCCB. MONTALEGRE 5. NOV 10TH-DEC 11TH. In 1955, a group of Dutch photographers came up with the idea to host an international photo competition in order to boost exposure of their own work beyond the national photography scene. More than 50 years on, the annual competition has become one of the most prominent in photojournalism, with winning photographs touring 45 countries and reaching over four million viewers in travelling exhibitions. Celebrating the leading photos from this year’s contest, the exhibition arrives in Barcelona this month, showcasing the likes of Swiss photographer Christian Bobst’s Gris-gris wrestlers in Senegal, Chinese photographer Zhang Lei’s aerial shot of a smog cloud suspended above the city of Tianjin, and the most heart-wrenching 2016 winner, Australian Warren Richard’s emotive photograph capturing the reality of the Syrian refugee crisis. The 2016 World Press Photo Contest presents another unmissable collection, shedding light on global events, among other categories, that represent both the beauty and brutality of the world.

© John J. Kim, USA, Chicago Tribune, March Against Police Violence

MNAC Picasso and the Romanesque Art Organised in collaboration with the Picasso Museum in Paris, this exhibition presents 40 important works exploring Picasso’s relationship with Romanesque art. Opens November 17th. Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc. FUNDACIÓ GASPAR Art strikes back Presenting 20 works by a variety of international artists, this exhibition examines the creative approaches of different generations of artists and their unique interpretations of everyday life. Opens November 11th. Montcada 25. LAST CHANCE ADN GALERÍA ProPaganDaDa In this unique exhibition, South African artist Kendell Geers disentangles logical paradoxes and brings together crude oppositions - presenting the Virgin Mary as a pornstar, for example, inviting viewers to enjoy a ‘body to body’ encounter with his work and become part of the unspeakable quagmire. Until November 11th. Enric Granados 49. CIVIC CENTRE CASA GOLFERICHS La música dels 60 dins i fora dels escenaris This exhibition provides insight into the Sixties music scene through the lens of renowned sports photographer Horacio Seguí, who worked with numerous music magazines and record companies in Barcelona during that period. Until November 5th. Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 491. MNAC Ramon Casas and the shadow puppets at Els Quatre Gats 150 years after Catalan artist Ramon Casas was born, the MNAC is showcasing a series of his unpublished graphic work, the focal point being a group of nine shadow puppets, to highlight his contact with grassroots art forms such as cabaret. Until November 27th. Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc.


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RECOVERED MEMORIES HARD GELATIN. MACBA. PLAÇA DELS ÀNGELS 1. NOVEMBER 4TH-MARCH 12TH. This thought-provoking exhibition focuses on the period 1977-1992 and reflects on the social and political atmosphere in Spain at the end of Franco’s regime, through a combination of unique sources. The project aims to outline the movement from a time of silence during the dictatorship to newfound personal freedom and autonomy, and how people reacted to this opportunity for free expression. It predominantly involves work by artists, activists and political groups that voiced their beliefs and ideologies as Spain emerged as a democracy. During the early Seventies, art, newspapers and film were hugely limited by censorship, followed by a sudden cultural explosion in the Eighties. The exhibition includes art, films, documentaries, magazines and comics, with highlights such as ‘Forgotten memory´, which addresses the omissions and the practice of anti-history regarding Spain’s past; ‘From the blue overall to the white collar’, which considers the transformation of the working man; and ‘Carnivals’, which delves into the world of pornography and violence. Taking part in the event are the popular Bartolomé brothers and the acclaimed artist Isidoro Valcárcel and politician Pere Portabella, who helped to write the Spanish Constitution in 1977.


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© John J. Kim, USA, Chicago Tribune, March Against Police Violence

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UN THYSSEN NUNCA VISTO. CAIXAFORUM. FRANCESC FERRER I GUÁRDIA 6-8. NOVEMBER 4TH-FEBRUARY 5TH. Home to one of the most outstanding private collections of European art, the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum based in Madrid is considered one of Spain’s most prestigious art museums. To celebrate the museum’s 25th anniversary, CaixaForum is presenting a collection of over 60 pieces from the Thyssen, as well as eight paintings from the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. The selection showcases works by some of the greatest European artists of all time, including Picasso, Rembrandt, Rubens and Kandinsky. This is the first time since the Thyssen-Bornemismza collection was acquired by the Spanish state in 1993, that a large set of its artwork will be seen outside of Madrid. Rather than organised chronologically, the exhibition is ordered thematically, divided into five genres—religion, still lifes, portraits, landscapes and urban landscapes—inviting viewers to enjoy a new and unprecedented interpretation of the collection.

B A R C E L O N A’ S


COMEDY EVENT 2nd-5th November

International Improv Comedy Festival €10 ENTRY 7.30pm to 11.30pm nightly at Teatre El Cercle. Carrer de Santa Magdalena, 12 Metro Fontana


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POBLE ESPANYOL. NOVEMBER 4TH-6TH. Travel back to the Middle Ages with the second edition of the Medieval Fair at Poble Espanyol. For three days the area will be transformed into a typical medieval village with both daytime and evening events for the whole family. This year the fair will include a market with over 70 stalls selling crafts, food and clothes. The fair will provide a medieval feast, which will include a wide range of meats, cheeses and pies, and to wash it all down, you can have a few afternoon drinks at the traditional tavern, serving craft beers and ales. See the swords, shields and armour that were typically used in medieval battles and try your hand out at some of the traditional activities of the time - for instance, there will be an archery range to test your battle skills. Four fortune tellers will also be in attendance at the festival, offering visitors a glimpse into their future.For the kids, there is a children’s corner on the Plaza de Baluarte with lots of games, parades and entertainment suitable for all ages, including a puppet show, a castle and a chance to try juggling or falconry.


AUTO RETRO. FIRA DE MONTJUÏC. NOVEMBER 24TH-27TH. Auto Retro returns to Barcelona this year, boasting a huge collection of vintage cars, motorcycles, boats and planes from over 600 international brands and exhibitors. Organised by Promobil Group, Auto Retro ticket prices start at just 15. Those in attendance will have the opportunity to take part in the different activities on offer and wander around the many exhibitions. They might even catch a glimpse of a vintage Harley Davidson or James Bond’s classic Aston Martin DB5, as there will be 2000 classic cars lined up along the street. The public are also invited to buy and sell vehicles, accessories and spare parts at the Car&Bike Corral parade. The Montjuïc Legend series will join the event as well this year, where passersby can witness 200 vintage cars in their element, racing around the old circuits. Other activities include presentations and tributes related to the past, present and future of the world of motors.


MONTALEGRE 5. NOVEMBER 14TH-20TH. Barcelona never fails to disappoint film fanatics with its wide array of festivals dedicated to the world of cinema. This month, L’Alternativa returns for its 23rd edition, offering a fresh assortment of independent and, as the name suggests, alternative films created by new directors, with the aim of disseminating their work both nationally and internationally. As usual, the festival is divided into several sections such as the L’Alternativa Official, comprised of feature films and short films, and L’Alternativa Parallel, which showcases unconventional works from inspiring directors. This year that section will focus on French director, screenwriter and actor, Maurice Pialat, alongside various experimental Spanish films created by women. L’Alternativa Hall offers a themed series of free screenings exploring the impacts of mass tourism on cities, while L’Alternativa Actividades provides an educational dimension to the festival, with workshops, debates and discussions.


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BIG IF. TEATRE DEL CERCLE. NOVEMBER 2ND-5TH. Get ready for some belly laughs at the Barcelona Improv Group International Festival (BIG IF), in its fourth edition. The event, inspired by the Finland Improv Festival, launched in 2013, to create something similar in Barcelona. The objective is to make people laugh, but more importantly, to get people involved. “It all comes down to community and creating that special connection with the audience,” said Sarah Everitt, one of the festival’s organisers. What sets improv apart is its interactive nature. Sketches evolve from audience suggestions and are performed without scripts, costumes or sets. There are five different shows every night throughout the festival, lasting 30-40 minutes and featuring 20 improvisation teams, including the highly acclaimed American duo Rocket Sugar Factory and the award-winning Texan group Parallelogramophonograph. If you’d like to be a part of the action, the BIG IF operates 35 workshops taught by professionals, both for individuals and groups, which vary from stage presence to musical improvisation. Whether you want to take part or sit back and enjoy a good laugh, this comedy festival promises to deliver something for everyone.


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VARIOUS LOCATIONS. 3RD-10TH. The oldest film festival in the world dedicated to environmental issues hopes to create positive social change through cinema.

ARABIC MEDITERRANEAN FILM FESTIVAL FILMOTECA DE CATALUNYA. 8TH-13TH. Now over ten years old, this festival promotes the circulation of Arab and Mediterranean cinema in Catalunya.

CHOREOSCOPE VARIOUS LOCATIONS. 8TH-13TH. Fusing dance with cinematography, this unique festival celebrates the language of movement as a common theme between dance and film.

MOST FILM FESTIVAL VARIOUS LOCATIONS. 3RD-13TH. In its 5th edition, the festival presents the best international audiovisuals surrounding wine and cava. Who could ask for more?


TEATRO DE LA PENI. PL. MERCÈ RODOREDA. 11TH-20TH. A festival of terror, with this year marking the 35th edition of screenings devoted to the film genre.


CIRVIANUM THEATRE. PL. NOVA 10. 11TH-20TH. A series of screenings and competitions dedicated to mountains and nature, alongside exhibitions, an editorial space and various activities.

We build a project for life OUR PRIVILEGE IS YOUR EDUCATION Early Childhood Elementary School Middle School High School Consult for open placement.


CINEMES GIRONA. GIRONA 175. NOV 27TH-DEC 10TH. The internationally-established festival uses film to raise awareness about various social injustices and promote cultural diversity.

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Ctra. Sabadell a Matadepera km 6 (BV-1248) 08227 - Terrassa Phone: 937 870 158 Fax: 937 870 250

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WORLD PRESS PHOTO This photography exhibition is considered one of the most prestigious annual press photography competitions. CCCB. Montalegre

CONSTRUINT EL TERRITORI Explore the relationship between man and the environment, and how the landscape of the region has impacted Catalan architec-

JAMES BRANDON LEWIS The New York composer and saxophonist promises a vibrant performance. 8.30pm. Conservatori del Liceu. Nou de la Rambla

LE NOZZE DI FIGARO The Liceu presents a tale of love, lust and liaisons accompanied by the music of Mozart. 8pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-

STAND-UP COMEDY SHOW & KARAOKE An evening of English stand-up, followed by classic karaoke. 8.30pm. Touch Music Karaoke. Joan Miró 8.


BIG INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL The four-day festival celebrates the world of improv, with workshops, shows and jam sessions. Various locations. Until 5th.

SOJA The Grammy-nominated reggaerock group are considered pioneers of the musical genre’s new generation. 7.30pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

WWE LIVE The world of wrestling takes the stage in an epic show, as part of their Spanish tour. 8pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Psg. Olímpic 5-7.


HARD GELATIN A multimedia exhibition of underground art that reflects historical events of the post-Franco regime. MACBA. Plaça dels Àngels 1. Until March 12th.

MEDIEVAL FAIR Travel to the middle ages with a weekend of fire shows, jugglers, street parades, craft stalls and more. Poble Espanyol. Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guardia. Until 6th.

AMFEST BCN The three-day music festival promotes instrumental and experimental rock with live performances. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 3rd-5th.


THE VAMPS British pop-rock group arrive in Barcelona to shake things up with The Wake Up World Tour. 6pm. BARTS. Av. Paral•lel 62.

DIADA DE TOTS SANTS (ALL SAINTS’ DAY) Traditionally a day to remember the dead, La Castanyada is celebrated with autumnal treats.













TIC BCN 2016 Two races of varying length take you on a tour of the city’s emblematic sites. Velòdrom d’Horta, Passeig de la Vall d’Hebron 185. 5th-6th.

13 FROZEN The music from the Disney movie is brought to life by a live orchestra and choir. 5pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Psg. Olímpic 5-7.

12 MIRA FESTIVAL Returning for a 6th edition, the digital arts festival boasts over 30 activities related to music and visuals. Various locations.

PASSENGER The lead singer is accompanied by live musicians to perform hits such as the popular single ‘Let Her Go’. 9pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. LICEU’S SUPERSAX PROJECT The group of musicians perform as part of the Voll Damm Jazz Festival. 8.30pm. Conservatori del Liceu. Nou de la Rambla 88.

6 CREATIVA BARCELONA The 11th edition of the art fair, with exhibitions, craft stalls, demonstrations and workshops. La Farga l’Hospitalet. Barcelona 2. 3rd-6th.







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SMART CITY EXPO WORLD CONGRESS The world’s leading smart city event returns to Barcelona for its 6th edition. Fira Barcelona Gran Via. Av. de Joan Carlos I 64. Until 17th.

MOUNTAIN AND ADVENTURE FILM FESTIVAL This festival supports the dissemination of mountain cinematography. Teatre Cirvianum. Plaça Nova. 11th-20th.


JUSTIN BIEBER Barcelona gets Bieber fever as the Canadian popstar takes to the stage to celebrate his Purpose World Tour. 7pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Psg. Olímpic 5-7.

EUROPE Celebrating 30 years in the music business, the Swedish band behind ‘The Final Countdown’ play their greatest hits. 7pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.


BLUES JAM SESSION Directed by blues singer Hernán ‘Chino’ Senra, Tuesday evenings attract many international musicians. 10.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

L’ALTERNATIVA The 23rd edition of this festival that celebrates international and national independent films. The Alternative. Montalegre 5. Until 20th.

MOLINS DE REI HORROR FILM FESTIVAL The festival provides a platform for new filmmakers, as part of the EFFFF (European Fantastic Film Festival Federation). Various Locations. 11th-20th.


EL BOSC BLANC The latest exhibition by Jaume Plensa, showcasing various portraits made from whitened wood. Galería Senda. Trafalgar 32. Nov 17th-Jan 21st.

MY FIRST FESTIVAL A children’s film festival offering a range of international creative cinema. Various locations. 12th27th.


NEW WORKING DRAWINGS David Tremlett, exhibits his latest collection, based upon architecture, nudity and spirituality. Galeria Miguel Marcos. Jonqueres 10. Until 30th.

BEATLES TRIBUTE One of the most inspiring pianists of Latin jazz pays tribute to the infamous pop legends. 8.30pm. Conservatori del Liceu. Nou de la Rambla 88.

WHITE LIES English award-winning punk rockers celebrate their new album, Friends (2016), released last month. 9pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.



JEAN-GUIHEN QUEYRAS & MICHAEL BEHRINGER The cellist and pianist celebrate the music of Vivaldi. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

THE NUTCRACKER BY TCHAIKOVSKY French conductor Marc Minkowski brings the classic ballet to Barcelona’s iconic concert hall. 8.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

ASAF AVIDAN Once the frontman of Asaf Avidan & the Mojos, the Israeli singer-songwriter performs on his solo tour, Into the Labyrinth. 8.30pm. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.

BIRDY The 19-year-old, Brit Award nominee, famous for tracks such as ‘Skinny Love’, celebrates the release of her new album. 9pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

THE VINCENT VALENTINE SHOW The Mancunian comedian hosts an evening of humour, accompanied by local comedians and guest stars. 8.30pm. Craft Barcelona. Paradís 4.

D’AVIONS I SUBMARINS Catalan artist, Josep Riera i Aragó, showcases his works of planes, submarines and zeppelins. Galeria Eude. Consell de Cent 278. Until Jan 5th.


DIANA NAVARRO The Grammy-nominated, Spanish singer performs new tracks from her latest album Resiliencia (2016). 9pm. BARTS. Paral•lel 62.

PICASSO AND THE ROMANESQUE ART The exhibition shows over 40 works that display the relationship between Picasso and the European art form. MNAC. Parc de Montjuïc. Nov 17th-Feb 26th.



INTERNATIONAL ENVIRONMENTAL FILM FESTIVAL A series of films surrounding the theme of nature and the environment. Various locations. 3rd-10th.

WORLD PRESS PHOTO This photography exhibition is considered one of the most prestigious annual press photography competitions. CCCB. Montalegre 5. Until Dec 11th.

CONSTRUINT EL TERRITORI Explore the relationship between man and the environment, and how the landscape of the region has impacted Catalan architecture. Museu Marítim. Av. de les Drassanes. Until 15th.

JAMES BRANDON LEWIS The New York composer and saxophonist promises a vibrant performance. 8.30pm. Conservatori del Liceu. Nou de la Rambla 88.

LE NOZZE DI FIGARO The Liceu presents a tale of love, lust and liaisons accompanied by the music of Mozart. 8pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 5159. Various dates.

LIV MONAGHAN The singer-songwriter brings the Parisian jazz scene to Barcelona with a live performance. 8.30pm. Harlem Jazz Club. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8.

TINIE TEMPAH The multitalented English rapper, singer-songwriter and record producer celebrates the release of his third studio album. 9pm. Sala Bikini. Av. Diagonal 547.

AUTO RETRO 2016 A fair of vintage cars and vehicles, including motorbikes, boats and planes. Fira Montjuïc. Joan Carles I 64. Until 27th. GUITAR ON/OFF The exhibition presents the evolution of man’s relationship with music and various historical and cultural influences. L’Auditori. Carrer Lepant 150. Until 27th.


ARABIC & MEDITERRANEAN FILM FESTIVAL A cultural project aiming to promote Arabic cinema in Catalunya. SODEPAU. Pg. Salvat Papasseit 1. 8th-13th.

WWE LIVE The world of wrestling takes the stage in an epic show, as part of their Spanish tour. 8pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Psg. Olímpic 5-7.



CONSTELLATIONS English theatre company Jocular Theatre present their new play by Nick Payne. Teatre Almeria (until 20th). For tickets see





LA TRAVIATA Verdi’s masterpiece is brought to life in a stunning two-hour show. 6.30pm. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6.

HUMAN RIGHTS FILM FESTIVAL A series of awards and screenings to celebrate films that awaken our conscience and reflect the cultural diversity of humankind. Cinemes Girona. Girona 175. Until Dec 10th. THE CURE The English rock band famous for singles such as ‘Just like Heaven’, and ‘The Lovecats’ play to the masses. 8pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Psg. Olímpic 5-7. THE OTHER SIDE: PINK FLOYD LIVE EXPERIENCE A band of Floydians pay tribute with some of the psychedelic rock group’s greatest hits. 8pm. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88.

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MARVEL UNIVERSE LIVE! See superheroes in action at the epic show with special effects, aerobatics and more. Various times. Palau Sant Jordi. Psg. Olímpic 5-7. Nov 18th- 20th.

THE PIXIES The American rock band with a career spanning three decades perform live.9pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Psg. Olímpic 5-7.


MOST FESTIVAL The annual event returns to showcase the best international audiovisual work associated with viniculture, wine and cava. Various locations. 3rd-13th.

FROZEN The music from the Disney movie is brought to life by a live orchestra and choir. 5pm. Palau Sant Jordi. Psg. Olímpic 5-7.

MIRA FESTIVAL Returning for a 6th edition, the digital arts festival boasts over 30 activities related to music and visuals. Various locations. 10th-12th. CHOREOSCOPE A film festival celebrating the world of dance, aiming to promote Barcelona as the capital for dance cinema. Various locations. 8th-13th.



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he Palo Alto Market is not your average monthly street fair. When you step through the gates, you feel like you’ve entered a tiny world unto itself, populated by musicians, artisans, designers and chefs. It is, as director and founder Pedrin Mariscal calls it, “an urban oasis, to be enjoyed with all five senses”. And, this December the market celebrates its second birthday. The Palo Alto Market’s 3,700 m2 space is divided into four outdoor streets (Principal Avenue, Food Street, Central Street and Bugambilia Street) and three interior galleries (Art Gallery, Espai Black and Espai Blanc). It houses approximately 100 exhibitors at any one time. The multidisciplinary art and design on sale has a strong emphasis on alternative aesthetics, and you can browse handmade crafts, recycled products, street art, restored vintage objects and emerging design trends. Add music and street theatre performances, and you have a magical environment in the middle of the increasingly up-and-coming Poblenou. The seeds for Palo Alto were planted in the Nineties, when internationally renowned designer Javier Mariscal stumbled across an abandoned factory while searching for a place to open his studio. He and his partners created the Palo Alto Market Foundation in order to rescue the dilapidated space. Nearly two decades later, it was Javier’s brother and collaborator, Pedrin Mariscal, who decided to take his concept of design to a higher level, while simultaneously opening the door to a younger generation of local artists and creators. The conversion of the old factory into the market became his biggest work of art, a functional installation open to the entire city. Pedrin’s concept was “to give young designers the opportunity to showcase their work in an atmosphere that blends street flavour and sophistication”.

Paula Mariscal, who is responsible for Palo Alto’s press and communications, says that the key to their success is the team’s passion for the project, combined with their unwavering standards. The market receives five or six times as many proposals each month as they have space to accommodate, so when faced with the choice between quality and brand recognition—for example, an interesting unknown versus a name in the art world that may be more familiar but not necessarily 'better'—they choose quality every single time. “Our team invests hours upon hours in making these decisions,” she says. “We choose to back the projects that we believe will surprise and delight the public, and that are in keeping with our values (social, environmental, artistic, emotional, etc.).” For example, this season the Palo Alto team has partnered with a solidarity project called Nomad Soul, which connects Western designers with artisans from poorer countries. They also work with local independent record labels. The October 2016 edition of the market, entitled Post Pop, was organised in collaboration with music label CANADA. Paula says that another secret to their success is that 70 percent of the organisational team is from Valencia. “Our vision has always been to create an ambitious market and to keep evolving and improving as much as possible from one edition to the next. But as with all Valencianos, it’s also important to us that a playful and fun element is present in anything that we do.” The Mariscals and their team have big plans for this coming year, which include bringing the Palo Market Fest to Barcelona and Madrid. The Fest is a separate musical event that the Palo Alto Market Foundation inaugurated in Valencia in May of this year. Palo Alto Market takes place one weekend each month at Pellaires 30-38. More information at


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n May this year, Barcelona played host to one of the world's biggest skating events, the 2016 Street League Skateboarding (SLS) Nike SB World Tour. Skate tourists from around the world flocked to the city, which is renowned for its liberal attitudes to skaters and held in high esteem by the global skating community. Yet, some years ago, like many other cities that became popular among skaters, Barcelona introduced restrictions on skating in public spaces. So what makes a city a skateboard paradise and how has Barcelona managed to retain its international pull in the wake of legal restrictions? Barcelona native Sebas Pérez owns Furtivo Skateboarding, a skate shop in Poblenou. He has been a regular on the city’s skate scene for many years and witnessed the sport’s modest beginnings. “In the Eighties, Barcelona was nothing in the world of skateboarding,” he said. “It wasn’t really a great city to skate.” He went on to describe how the Sagrada Família area was one of the first places adopted by skaters. It wasn’t long, however, before residents of the area became fed up with the commotion attributed to the skateboarders and took matters into their own hands. In his thesis, ‘Reinterpretando la ciudad’, Xavi Camino

describes scenes of skaters being attacked by neighbours who refused to tolerate the disturbance. And so began the ongoing struggle between skaters, locals and the local government. The 1992 Olympic Games saw the city undergo a huge urban transformation, conducive to a style of skating known as ‘streetstyle’, which involves the use of public spaces and buildings to skate. Smooth surfaces and concrete ledges appeared around the city, making it a skater’s paradise. Today, Plaça dels Països Catalans and the square in front of the MACBA are still two of the most frequented spots in the city. At the same time, the branding of Barcelona as an international holiday destination unwittingly added to its image as a top skate city. Between 1990 and 1992, in the run-up to the Olympics, numerous skateparks and ramps were built around the city in an attempt to lure skaters away from central public spaces. These skateparks, such as Turó Park and the Bowl in Glòries, were not used as much as the council had hoped and skaters continued to favour the city’s architecture as a natural skatepark, ideal for experimenting with new tricks and socialising. “In this city, when the council tries to do something to help skaters, they do it badly,” said Sebas, summing up his vision of the relationship between the council and skaters. At the same time, Barcelona was putting itself firmly on the skate world map. “There was a time when you had to go to San Francisco or Los Angeles if you wanted to become a professional, but suddenly, you could succeed in Barcelona,” explained Sebas. “Every skate video had to have a clip of Barcelona in it.” In addition to its architecture, the city's abundance of squares, benches and public spaces—there to cater to its population during the warm months—were attracting skate tourists from around the world, all year long. As these skating spots became more popular, friction with local residents increased. People began to complain about the noise and damage the skaters were causing and it wasn’t long before the council was on the case. As in cities such as Bristol and Los Angeles, skaters were beginning to be seen as a problem, damaging the city’s architectural structures, misusing public spaces and disturbing the local community. In their defence, skaters presented it as a redefinition of public space, with banks, car parks and museums doubling up as areas of cultural growth, filled with the art, music, dance and social integration that skating brings with it.

Photo by Annabel Warley



• • • • •

• • • • •

MACBA Plaça Universitat Paral.lel El Fórum Besos

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Forum La Mar Bella Les Corts Garcia i Faria Skatepark Àgora

Local skater, Lewis Gregory, at the MACBA

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Photo by Rita Wachtler Photo by Pacho Fandiño Inty Shishishi has never been deterred from skating in Barcelona.

Despite the skating community’s opposition, in 2006, the city council introduced a bylaw through which it prohibited begging, prostitution, black market sales and skateboarding outside of specifically designated areas. Fines from €750 to €1,500 could be dished out to those who disobeyed the new laws. Until this time, the city had permitted skating in small numbers. If a large group of people formed, the authorities normally advised them to leave the area until the crowds cleared, without needing to fine anyone or confiscate equipment. Now, far from being considered a sport, skating was instead categorised as an anti-social crime. This attitude continued with the election of Xavier Trias as mayor in 2011. In his first year in office, 236 skaters received fines. Yet, in an effort to regulate the sport, and on the back of the 2013 X Games, which were held in Barcelona, Trias did prioritise the building of three new skateparks to accommodate the growing number of skaters and lure them away from the city centre. Fines and confiscations have done little to subdue the city’s skateboard fever. Even in 2011, as the skate community lamented the high number of fines, Barcelona was dubbed a ‘Mediterranean skateboard Mecca’ by TransWorld magazine, and today the MACBA continues to swarm with skaters from all over the world. Many skateboarders agree that it just takes wits to stay under the radar. Skateboarder and MACBA regular, Inty Shishishi, moved to Barcelona from her native Morocco five years ago. She said that the police don’t really bother the skaters. “They’re more interested in dispersing people who are drinking. If you move along when they come, they won’t bother you. It tends to be tourists who don’t know the system who end up getting fined.” In Sebas’s opinion, since the arrival of the new council, headed by Ada Colau, there have a been a lot less police around to patrol skate sites. Many skaters have become aware of the movements of the police and make sure to avoid them the best they can. Fines are sometimes handed out and boards are confiscated, but very little else is done to stop the activity, thus allowing Barcelona to keep its reputation as one of the world’s most liberal cities to skate in. At the beginning of the year, Colau gave the image of Barcelona’s skaters a boost. At the inauguration of the Spanish Forum for Prevention and Urban Security, the mayor spoke about an incident when she was approached and verbally abused whilst walking home alone. Feeling vulnerable, Colau explained how a young man who had been skateboarding by subsequently walked her home, ensuring she was safe. “For me, the image of security in this city is a young boy on a skateboard because it was one of the happiest discoveries of my life.” A lot of skaters want to find a sustainable solution to the ongoing controversy surrounding the use of public spaces. Xavier Camino suggests adapting certain structures by, for example, installing metal edges so as to avoid wear and tear by skaters. Sebas spoke about using the fines to contribute to the upkeep of public spaces. With so many pressing issues, such as housing conditions, anti-social behaviour and unemployment, skating does not appear to be at the top of Colau’s agenda. And so it seems that Barcelona will, for the time being, leave its skaters to their own devices and retain its title as a skating Mecca of Europe.


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in style


Name: Mathias Age: 22 Profession: Shop assistant From: Equatorial Guinea Dungarees: Carhartt Top: Carhartt Hat: Wood Wood Shoes: Nike

Name: Sadie Age: 22 Profession: Illustrator From: Barcelona Skirt: Hellbunny Top: Zara Scarf: Stradivarius Bag: Asos

Name: Fátima Age: 39 Profession: Gallery assistant From: Spain Dress: Urban Outfitters Shoes: Pull and Bear









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flows centre







Winter salad days


t’s rare that a salad achieves such culinary status, but the Xató is a special salad indeed. It arrives each winter to a fanfare of festivals, competitions and more than a little local rivalry. This much-feted dish is made from escarole, a variety of lettuce that’s traditionally available only in winter, and other ingredients that were, historically at least, only readily available in the colder months, when fresh ingredients were harder to come by. The salsa is made from store cupboard ingredients like dried peppers, cookies, and bread, while the three fish used are salt cod, anchovies and tuna, which are available year round, dried or canned. That the salad is named for the salsa, or vice versa depending on one’s perspective, shouldn’t detract from the importance of the escarole, which singer and food writer Pere Tàpias once referred to as the “queen of the kitchen in winter.” Escarole is rich in vitamins A and K, folate, fibre, iron, magnesium, and calcium, making it ideal for a winter salad, when fresh vegetables are harder to come by. Escarole, like endive and radicchio, comes from the chicory family but is less bitter than its peers. It comes in two varietals, broadleaved and curly (known in Catalan as fulla llisa and fulla arrissada), the second being finer and more highly valued in gastronomic circles. One kind in particular, called angel’s hair (cabell d’angel), and known in the Garraf by the name of la perruqueta, is often chosen for its sweet flavour. In fact, the outer greener leaves of the head are often peeled away and discarded for being too bitter, leaving only the sweeter, creamy white leaves closer to the

heart. However, the inner and outer leaves can be mixed to taste. The exact provenance of Xató is unknown, but its origins lie in the Penedès, the coastal winemaking region between Barcelona and Tarragona. Here, five towns make up a loosely defined Xató region: Sitges, Calafell, El Vendrell, Vilafranca del Penedès, and Vilanova i la Geltrú. These towns work together to maintain the dish’s tradition and status, and promote it through the region and beyond. A Xató route and accompanying website (, raise the salad’s visibility and celebrate the culture, gastronomy, and local traditions of each town, and the region as a whole. Six festivals dedicated to Xató take place during the winter months in the five xató towns. Last spring, the first annual masterclass for journalists was inaugurated, celebrating the salad and the regional nuances of its dressing. In this friendly competition, each town is represented by a local chef who teaches journalists how to make their specific version of the sauce. At the end, the sauces are tasted and the best is awarded a prize. In addition, the organisation, under the name of Ruta del Xató, has created a network of restaurants in the area that serve the traditional Xató salad or a tapa inspired by the dish, often accompanied by xató dressing. The salad’s status is also promoted by famous chefs who serve two-year stints as its ambassadors, a tradition that began in 1988 with Ferran Adrià and continues today with Moments chef Raúl Balam Ruscalleda, son of the well-known chef Carme Ruscalleda, the owner of Restaurant Sant Pau in Sant Pol de Mar.

Like the salad itself, the exact origin of its name is also in dispute. The most widely accepted belief is that it derives from the Catalan for aixeta, or tap. More specifically, the word is said to be related to the idea of aixetonament, the tapping of the wine barrels at first harvest, and coinciding with the kickoff of Carnaval. It used to appear just when the taps came out and the wine began to flow. The Ruta del Xató celebrates its uncertain origin with good humour, joking that it derives from the French château, playing on the name of Vilafranca, or invented by the fishermen from Vendrell. But regardless of its origin, it remains indisputably rooted in Catalan gastronomic culture and its lexicon. The dressing for Xató, called salsa xató, is a type of romesco, the sauce normally served alongside calçots and other roasted vegetables. The differences between the two reside largely in consistency, xató being thicker than romesco because it’s traditionally made by hand in a mortar. Purists would insist on this while many home cooks and chefs admit to using a blender or a food processor. Aside from the consistency of the salsa, the ingredients also differ slightly both between romesco and salsa xató, and among the five Xató towns. There are many opinions about what can (and can’t) go into a xató sauce, but those with poetic leanings speak of its rich red colour and the distinctive contrast created between the pale leaves of the escarole and the brightness of the salsa on top. As Roger Sanchez Amat pointed out, “Xató perfectly represents the Moorish influence: colours and flavours heightened through the presence of salty anchovies, tuna,


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and olives, all seasoned with a kitchen mainstay, the Moorish ñora.” Unlike romesco, Xató is made with ñora peppers, which is give it a richer colour and a slightly smoky flavour, and more sweet paprika for added colour. Also, romesco relies on a heavy dose of vinegar which gives it its distinctively tart flavour. There are pronounced differences among the local renditions of Xató in both ingredients and flavour. The Xató from Sitges uses only raw garlic, whilst down in Vilafranca, they combine both raw and roasted garlic, as well as Maria cookies. The Xató from El Vendrell includes roasted onion, while that of Calafell uses romesco peppers in place of ñoras. Some salsas are meant to be drizzled on top, while others like that of Calafell is mixed with the lettuce before serving. And so, this unusual dish, laden not just with Mediterranean flavours, but with tradition, local pride, and plenty of good humour, arrives this month in Sitges and Vilanova i la Geltrú. It’s well worth heading down for the experience, but if you think the neighbouring town does it better, you may just want to keep that to yourself.


INGREDIENTS FOR THE SALAD (for each plate): 2 large leaves of escarole 120g of salt cod 120g of tuna packed in oil 4 anchovy fillets 80g of arbequina olives

Photos courtesy of

INGREDIENTS FOR THE SALSA: 100g almonds 100g hazelnuts 1 ñora pepper 1 slice toasted bread 5 cloves garlic plus one half clove 2 small tomatoes (tomacons) 250g of olive oil vinegar to taste salt white pepper paprika

CALENDAR OF XATÓ EVENTS 20 November: Sitges 29 November: Vilanova i la Geltrú 28 February: Calafell, El Vendrell, Vilafranca del Penedès 14 February: El Vendrell 21 February: Vilafranca del Penedès 3 April: Sitges Find more information at www.rutadelxató.com Tag your Xató photos with the official tag: #rutaXato

Begin by desalinating the cod 24 hours ahead of time. Place cod in a bowl and cover it entirely with cold water. Place in the fridge and let it soak overnight, changing the water every six to eight hours. After 24 hours, drain the water and keep the cod cold until ready to serve. To prepare the ñora pepper, prick a few holes in the dried pepper and boil for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover, and let sit for another 30 minutes, or until thoroughly softened. Remove the pepper from the water and drain. Cut the pepper open and lay it flat on a cutting board. With the back side of a knife or a spoon scrape the inside flesh away from the skin. You will only need half of the meat from the pepper. Then rest can be saved for another recipe. To roast the garlic, preheat the oven to 200 degrees. Place the five whole cloves of garlic into a piece of foil and wrap tightly. Roast for 30 minutes. To prepare the dressing, add the almonds, hazelnuts and garlic (both raw and roasted) to a mortar, and mash to a very fine paste. Then add half the meat from the ñora pepper, the toasted bread, paprika and white pepper, mashing it until fully incorporated. Finally, add the tomatoes and the oil, and blend very well. Adjust the flavours by adding vinegar to taste. Wash the escarole and drain it well. Add the salsa and mix. Let stand a few hours before serving. To prepare the salad, divide the escarole among the plates. Add the cod, tuna, anchovy fillets and olives and serve. The salad is best accompanied by Spanish tortilla made with either artichokes, white beans, or black sausage, or another ingredient of choice, or as an appetiser for grilled meats like botifarra.


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extizo offers a blend of Mexican and Mediterranean cuisine, but not in the sense of the lazy or trendy ‘fusion’ cooking that forcefully inserts the ingredients from one culture into the classic dishes of another, with no respect. Instead of cavalierly merging these two distinct cuisines into one dish, chef Adrián Marín has chosen a more purist approach, offering a wide array of recipes discovered during his three years living in Mexico (from Cochinita Pibil to Ceviche Baja California ), alongside dishes from the classic Spanish Mediterranean coast. Chef Marín hails from Castelló, and his rice dishes stand as a proud testament to his Valencian roots. After a seemingly endless parade of tacos, sopes, panuchos and salads, a steaming paella pan of saffron rice with tender white fish, mussels, clams and langoustines arrived to the table, presenting a challenge to my already full stomach that I was all too willing to accept. The decor of this elegant, upscale restaurant, just half a block from Rambla de Catalunya on Carrer de la Diputació, is punctuated with countless “X” motifs in black and white. The omnipresent letter forms looping yet subtle patterns that hatch their way across the walls and fabric coverings of the plush, comfy banquettes that fill the high-ceilinged back dining room.

Photo by Tara Stevens


MORE INFO Diputació 239 Mon-Sat 1pm -12am Sun 1pm-7pm ✪✪✪✪✪

There is no cocktail menu at Mextizo, but expert barman Gregorio Gracia is almost always on hand to swing by your table in his shortsleeve shirt and barman vest to recommend a signature cocktail to accompany your meal. Gracia has a long history of bartending in Barcelona. He was the bar educator at famous, old-school mixology stalwart Dry Martini, once named one of the 10 best cocktail bars in the world. Gracia’s most common request from diners at Mextizo is a margarita, which he enthusiastically infuses with “tequila tinctures” — tequila macerated with jalapeño, eucalyptus, blueberries, dried apricots, Vietnamese cinnamon and more.

The taco of lechon (suckling pig) might have been the very best three bites of the entire afternoon. The wine list at Mextizo is fairly comprehensive, though the offerings by the glass could be better. With such a wide contrast of flavours on their menu, recommending one bottle for the table to cover all pairings throughout the meal is extremely difficult. There are three white, three red and three ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE


This dish makes a great mid-week supper, or an easy, one-pot Sunday lunch. It’s perfect for autumn, when root vegetables are sweet and tender, but is lighter than a stew or a casserole, which call for piles of creamy mash. Buy lamb sirloin (solomillo), as opposed to loin (lomo) chops. They are not quite so tender, but cheaper and perfect for this dish.


6 large, thick-cut lamb sirloin chops, trimmed of excess fat 2 large onions, halved and cut into half-moon slices 2 bulbs garlic, separated and peeled 6 potatoes, roughly chopped 6 carrots, roughly chopped 6 small turnips, roughly chopped 1 large glass medium-sweet sherry

✪✪✪ GOOD

sparkling wines served by the glass. Of the three whites, all of which we tried (a typical offering of Albariño, Verdejo and Xarel·lo), the latter, a crisp and floral wine from Penedès, was the winner. The meal began with crispy wonton cones filled with raw tuna, Valencia-style rice and guacamole, quickly followed by a perfect little Sope de Tinga de Pollo. Sopes are thick corn tortillas, molded into the shape of a shallow dish and topped with various fillings. In this case, the tinga de pollo (braised chicken shredded and stewed in a tomato-based sauce) was served with sour cream and eaten in two heavenly

or white port 1 large glass water 2-3 sprigs sage 2-3 sprigs rosemary 3 lemons, cut in halves Salt and pepper Olive oil Handful parsley

METHOD 1. Season the lamb well with salt and pepper, then pan fry over a medium heat until golden. 2. Remove from the pan and add the onions and garlic (their juices will help to deglaze the pan). 3. Cook until they start to turn soft and golden, then add the rest of the vegetables. 4. Mix well, then add the sherry and


water and give everything a good stir. 5. Place the rosemary and sage on top, along with the lemon halves – do not stir – the point is that the herbs and citrus will gently infuse the dish rather than collapse into it. 6. Bring to a boil, then turn down to a simmer and leave for approx 1 hour, checking now and then to make sure it has not dried out. Add more sherry, water or both if necessary. 7. When the hour is over, carefully remove the herbs (there is nothing worse than a load of rosemary needles in your mouth). 8. Serve each portion with a scattering of parsley and half a lemon that can be squeezed over the top of the meat and vegetables. 9. Like most stew-type dishes, this will taste even better the next day. It even freezes well for a couple of months.


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bites (or one massive and messy mouthful if you’re like me). The meal continued with a wide variety of dishes, including many vegetarian options for my meat-abstaining partner. Tostadas of Grouper Ceviche with mango and langoustines, mini tortillas (panuchos) topped with braised pork and pickled red onions, a tangy salad of tomato, fresh mango, crispy tortilla strips and a mango vinaigrette, and tacos of grilled vegetables, lechon (suckling pig) and grilled ribeye steak followed. The taco of lechon might have been the very best three bites of the entire afternoon. The rich meat was slow-roasted until virtually melting off the bone, and shards of brittle, crispy pig skin were sprinkled across the top of the taco like a beautiful blessing from the pork gods. The accompanying salsas were good, but when the waiter offered a third “extra spicy” sauce, that’s when things truly got interesting. The devil red purée of arbol chilies and chipotle was delicious and just spicy enough to set my inner ear tingling, but not so intense that the intricate flavour of the toasted chilies couldn’t be thoroughly enjoyed. I slathered the chopped bits of chargrilled steak in this addictive salsa and moaned with pleasure, mouth on fire. As if all this food was not enough, we soon realised that a hearty helping of seafood rice (which was also superb, though their vegetarian rice with cauliflower and asparagus was a bit bland) and two outstanding desserts were still on their way. I noted with appreciation that the rice dishes are available in single servings (as opposed to a minimum of two servings), a not so common find in nicer restaurants in Barcelona. I’m not usually a dessert person, preferring a bit of cheese (or another taco) to something sweet at the end of a meal. However, the pastry chef of Mextizo, Ecuadorian-born Gabriela Lastra, nearly stole the show with her Textures of Chocolate and Lemon Lemon Lemon desserts. The chocolate plate was divine, offering chocolate mousse cake covered in ganache, a quenelle of chocolate mousse cream, a chocolate sponge cake, chocolate ice cream and a crunchy chocolate crumble, and the lemon creation featured ultrarefreshing lemon sorbet with lime zest, dense and sweet lemon olive oil cake, and a lemon egg yolk cream. Followed by two coffees and some complementary milk chocolate cornflake clusters and mini magdalena muffins, we practically rolled home, stuffed to the gills but utterly content.

in season: NOVEMBER Oranges, lemons, pomegranates, game birds and lamb

Tara Stevens is a food writer and cook who splits her time between Barcelona and her little cooking school in the Fez Medina. Passionate about Spanish and Moroccan cuisine, she takes traditional recipes and gives them a modern makeover using local and seasonal ingredients. Follow Tara on Instagram @courtyardkitchenfez and Twitter @taralstevens.

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La Castanya



esspool” is not a word with which I would ever have thought to begin a food-themed article, but it is a fitting description of the festering nature of Barcelona’s Carrer dels Escudellers, where weekend nights bring a whole new level of debauchery to the area skirting Plaça Reial. Though this street is grim, the new food offering at the tenacious neighbourhood restaurant, La Castanya, is a light in the darkness, putting up a fair fight towards changing one’s perception. I’ve spent plenty of time on Escudellers during my tenure in Barcelona, and even have friends who live there (though you’d never know from the vantage point of their quiet rooftop terrace). I would not have


recommended a meal on this infamous street (other than a slice of midnight pizza or greek gyro for the famished partygoer), until I was invited to sample La Castanya’s new and improved menu. The Italian-born longtime chefs Nicola Drago and Matteo Bertozzi recently took La Castanya’s menu, concept and decor in for a total overhaul. The restaurant was formerly famous for its burgers and cheap tapas, but now diners have some very interesting options (for a slightly higher price, of course), with the “0km” local foods movement at its core. Highlights of the evening included Bloody Mary Oysters (clean, plump and briny), a rich and creamy Ensaladilla of Lobster, a tangy and light Trout Tartar with sour apple and herb mustard, and the Osso Bucco Croquettes. The latter are made with slow-cooked, shredded osso bucco (veal


Escudellers 30 Tel. 93 667 1617 Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 9am-2.30am Fri-Sat 9am-3.30am

shank) fried into crispy, delicious balls and topped with a bright citrus gremolata (citrus zest minced with garlic, salt and pepper), the most typical osso bucco garnish in Italy. The more substantial dishes on this diverse menu include grilled Secreto (a popular, tender cut of Iberico pork), served with a yoghurt sauce, dehydrated yoghurt flakes and lavender, and Fried Polenta wedges with creamy interiors, covered in a veritable confetti of smokey scamorza cheese cubes, red and green pestos, and fine filaments of shaved, aged parmesan. La Castanya still has burgers, but they are now of the “gourmet” variety, as well as a list of affordable cocktails, both classics and creative proprietary blends. You could now easily spend €30 or more per person at La Castanya on date night, but the value they bring to this area otherwise lacking in such restaurants is priceless.

Miquel Hudin is a sommelier originally from California but now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue series of wine books (

MONSANT’S INSTITUTIONAL WINES Over the summer I was asked to participate in rating the ‘institutional wines’ for DO Montsant. These are wines they select to best represent the region at a given moment. Once selected, in addition to bragging rights by the cellar, the wines are served at promotional events for the DO. They aren’t randomly chosen and need to meet certain requirements. For example, the whites must be a minimum of 70 percent from White Grenache and/or Macabeu and the reds a minimum of 70 percent from Grenache and Carignan. A group of 20 of us

conducted a blind taste test of the wines in various orders so that one person’s number one may have been another’s number ten to account for ‘palate fatigue’. It’s an interesting exercise, attempting to choose two wines that define a region, which produces some five million bottles of wine. Overall, I’d say that the result was good. If you want to understand DO Montsant in two wines, these offer up a good interpretation, although I would posit there are many other reds that you can try as well.



A wine that’s been getting attention for several vintages now, this blend of 60 percent White Grenache, 25 percent Macabeu, 10 percent Grey Grenache and five percent Xarel·lo is exciting. While it has some tropical notes, owner Albert Jané has done well to round it out with a touch of barrel aging to make a modern interpretation of the ‘field blend’ from days past.

This cooperative makes around 30 percent of all the wine in DO Montsant and has the arduous task of blending together massively varying plots of grapes. The resulting blend of a Grenache and Carignan is impressive. Expressive red and dark fruits come out immediately as well as a generally spicy character that’s balanced by good acidity in what was a showstopper of a vintage.


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& IN

Bar D9 BAR4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has at least one night a week for you. Equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. With American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus parties on Thursdays and music-themed parties on Fridays and Saturdays, there is always something for everyone.


under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40  food&drink visit our online directory

Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am



Roast chicken and burgers – is there anything more appealing? This recently opened restaurant serves both! Their chicken from the Empordà region is marinated and cooked over coals by Chef Iñaki Moreno. They have some amazing Burgers on the Menu, with vegan and gluten free options too. Don’t forget to try their craft beers and cocktails! DJ sessions every Friday from 8pm onwards.

This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel, where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This club offers a programme of cultural and music events for the most creative public. It is the ideal space for escaping the crowds or hosting business clients.

Duc de Medinacelli 2, 08002 Tel. 93 220 47009 Mon-Fri 1pm-12am and Sat 12pm-12am Sun 12pm-11am,

Elisabets 11 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 6280 Tues-Thurs 4pm-12am Fri-Sat 4pm-2am



Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients, his cuisine is presented with an imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maître d’: Oscar Fernández.

The recently opened BlackLab Brewery offers customers a new experience in Barcelona––a place to enjoy a unique pint of craft beer, made just two metres away from where you’re sitting. BlackLab’s food is a culinary journey from China all the way to New York. You’ll find dumplings and bahn mi, mussels fresh from the fish market, ramen, cheesecake, portobello mushrooms, and more. New 1 hour beer tour every Sunday at 5pm. Tastings of 4 beers for €12. Quote ‘Metropolitan’ to receive a free BlackLab bag.

Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360



SURYA4EIXAMPLE Surya Barcelona is an Indian restaurant that invites you to travel all the way to the streets of Mumbai, rich in colour, smell and exotic flavours. They offer a cosy and relaxed space where you can feel at home, drink, read a magazine, connect to the Internet and work, all while sampling some of their delicious dishes. After dinner you can relax with cocktails and enjoy their in-house DJs, from their The House Party collective on “Deep Fridays”, to Saturday night’s “Funky New Disco”.

Pau Claris 92 | Consell de Cent 236, 08011 Tel. 93 667 8760 Mon-Sun 10am-3am

Located in the trendy Sant Antoni area, close to Barcelona’s famous clubs like Apolo and Plataforma, this bar has an intriguing interior, funny waiters and quality Belgian beers and specialities at a great price. It’s the ideal place to watch football with friends while pouring your own beers to avoid queueing!


Parallel 104 Bj 2, 08015 Tel. 93 222 9801

KAIZEN AFTERWORK4POBLE NOU Do you work close to 22@ and feel like relaxing after work? Come to Kaizen Afterwork and enjoy premium cocktails and tasty snacks. With great vibes and great music, bring this ad and you’ll get 15% off a gin and tonic. Castella 1 | Tel. 93 676 0761 / 636 092 221 Tues-Thurs 6pm-2.30am, Fri-Sat 6pm-3am, Sun 6pm-2.30am, Mon closed |


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Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room, designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well-known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that are a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins.

Mannà Gelats offers homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the finest products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, and boast a range of exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalised attention.

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312 Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm

Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun 1pm-4pm



This recently opened restaurant offers traditional Mexican cuisine. For starters, don’t miss the excellent house nachos, served with cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, or Vuelve la Vida, a seafood ceviche with avocado, tomato and lime. Other dishes include the Arrachera, a grilled US prime hanger steak served with baked vegetables, as well as the Atún Moctezuma, a pan-seared tuna battered in Mexican spices, served with pico de gallo, avocado and mint sauce. Mexican brunch is also available at the weekend.

At Menssana, a creative and healthy cuisine is combined with gracious and knowledgeable service. There is something for everyone, with vegan and vegetarian options created using flavours from across the globe. They also offer a carefully selected range of local wines and beers, as well as smoothies and fresh juices. Their aim is to nourish your body and mind with delicious meals, served in a vibrant and friendly atmosphere. Sardenya 48, 08005 Tel. 93 624 3505 Mon-Sat 9am-12am Sun 9am-6pm


Girona 59, 08009 Tel. 93 461 3060 Mon-Thurs 8am-12am Fri-Sat 8am-3pm, Sun 9.30am-12am


SÚPER COFFEE & FOOD STORE4POBLENOU Located in the vibrant district of Poblenou, Súper provides speciality coffees and a wide selection of healthy food to take away. Using the finest local and organic ingredients, they aim to provide nourishing and balanced meals for the surrounding working community.

Britta’s Nordic Deli is the first and only Scandinavian deli in Barcelona. Here you’ll find the most delicious sandwiches and smørrebrød in town. Moreover, they offer all kinds of specialities to take away from a wide charcuterie, including smoked and marinated wild salmon, hot smoked salmon, marinated herring, homemade salads, smoked deer, organic cheeses, Danish seaweed caviar and a lot more. Bonavista 29 | Tel. 93 461 7362 | Mon 5-9pm, Tues-Fri 11.30am-3.30pm and 5pm-9pm, Sat 11.30am-3.30pm, Sun closed |

Delivery FOODIES BARCELONA4POBLENOU Foodies Barcelona is an online restaurant that prepares wholesome and fresh meals, delivering to your office, business or party. Whether you want a healthy lunch for a meeting or daily catering, they’ve got you covered. Order online or contact them for a menu.

Roc Boronat 102, 08018 Mon-Fri 8am-6pm

Sant Joan de Malta 131 | Tel. 93 266 4271 Mon-Fri 8am-11am |

Vegetarian/Vegan BE MY BAGEL4GRÀCIA


Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. Offering an extensive range of bagels and cakes—from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

Founded 25 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation with its vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features thalis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) | Metro Fontana or Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm Sun 10.30am-2pm

Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11.30pm, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm |

AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Their menu of the day costs 10.70, while their night and weekend menus cost 15.50. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun closed |


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Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Doctor for Adults


Feel confident with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and is also certified as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine. She is also a member of IAMAT.

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: See our online directory at

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040 Metro Diagonal or FGC Gràcia

Dr Bassas - DErMATology

Doctors Barcelona - DOCTOR

The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technology. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of Surgical Dermatology and Venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience. Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efficient and accessible care in Surgical Dermatology and Venereology, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics. Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602. Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº 12. Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434

Doctors Barcelona is the top medical group in Barcelona. They are committed to providing a first-rate level of care and attention. They are experienced, trained and equipped to diagnose and treat the most acute or chronic medical problems and injuries. Available 24 hours including weekends and holidays. A 30-minute arrival time to your destination is guaranteed. Their visit fee is refundable by most insurance companies. All doctors are specialists and, using their services, the best hospitals are available.

M. 689 327 144

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The royal College of general Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly. Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191

Eugenia Espinosa - ENglISH

ServiDigest - HEAlTH


ServiDigest have more than 40 years’ experience working for your health and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and prevention is the best treatment. The cure for colorectal cancer depends on preventative measures and its early diagnosis. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a five-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme.

Eugenia is a licensed psycologist (col. 18602) and therapist for individuals, couples and families, who specialises in issues related to migration. Trained in Mexico, New york and Barcelona, she has a wealth of experience in treating individuals dealing with the complexities and stress of building a new life in a forgein country. She also offers comprehensive treatment for people going through depression, divorce or any other life-altering event.

ServiDigest. Thinking of people. Fostering prevention. Medical and Surgical Center ServiDigest

Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464/93 545 0990 Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed

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Santa Perpetua M. 677 090 479

10/26/16 12:44 PM

Orthoestetic - DENTIST

Dra. Susana Campi - DENTIST

The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their dentists experience allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults, and dental aesthetics. She is certified by the Invisalign system.

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, this team consisting of first-class professionals can offer you excellent treatment. They have more than 35 years of experience and are pleased to offer you their services in English, german, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan. Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Metro: Rocafort/Rosselló (L5) Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 Mon, Weds, Thurs 3.30pm-8.30pm Tues and Fri 9.30am-2pm

Platinum Provider


Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 Metro: Verdaguer (L4 ,L5)

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic DENTIST

Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are available. Dr. Boj also lectures on dentistry related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of rochester, Ny, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.

Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New york, is an American Board-certified orthodontist. Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technological advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care. Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 T. 93 246 9043 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm

Prats de Mollo 10, bajos B 08021 T. 93 209 3994



Dentistsalut - DENTIST For 15 years Dentisalut has offered the latest in dental care, with up-to-date techniques, materials and technology. Two strategically situated clinics and a team of highly trained dentists directed by Dr. Juan Carlos Torres, an expert in implants and oral surgery. Quality treatments at reasonable price and emergency dental care at weekends. English, French, Catalan and Spanish spoken. Dentisalut Sants T. 93 315 8557 / M. 619 064 753 Creu Coberta 54 Metro: Hostafrancs (L1) y Plaza España (L3) Dentisalut Nou Barris Pl. Garrigó 18 Metro: Fabra y Puig (L1) y Virrey Amat (L5) T. 93 408 5197 / M. 647 789 390 Emergencies: 639 868 374

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The Barcelona Network of English Speaking Therapists (NEST) is a multidisciplinary group of qualified and practising psychologists, psychiatrists and psychotherapists who live and work in and around Barcelona. NEST members work in the English language and have their roots in training bodies and professional associations based elsewhere. A number of NEST members also work in Catalan, Spanish, Bulgarian, Dutch, german, Italian and greek. For detailed information, please visit their website.


Hestía - PSyCHoTHErAPy Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual profile. Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, german, Portuguese, greek, Polish, Swedish, russian and Catalan. The first consultation is free. Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª Metro: Verdaguer (L5) T. 93 459 2802

10/26/16 12:44 PM

Symmetry Pilates- PIlATES

Tatiane Canário

Premium Pilates - NoT ‘get in, get knackered, get out!’ Unlike other forms of exercise, Pilates is targeted at those parts of the body where either correction – too long huddled over a computer for example – or strength is needed, as well as building up a strong core. People who do Pilates know it’s all about quality not quantity, so the benefit is felt after only a few sessions. So, sign up at this swanky new city-centre studio (yoga & physio also available) and enjoy a complimentary massage. Enric Granados 111 (entlo 2º) T. 93 531 3620 M. 637 693 073

T. 93 217 3025

Bikram Yoga - HoT yogA


Jessica Boston

Jessica Boston is a certified Cognitive Hypnotherapist based in the centre of Barcelona. Cognitive Hypnotherapy works to redefine your subconscious perspective and guide you towards what you really want, making positive change quickly and permanently to any kind of issue. Why not get in touch for your complimentary consultation to find out how it could change any aspect of your life, because nothing has to be the way it’s always been.


Georgina Weinstein - VOICE COACH Singing teacher, jazz vocalist and certified life coach, georgina offers coaching for people looking to enhance their vocal skills for both singing and public speaking. Her combination of skills and experience help clients boost their confidence while preparing a repertoire, a presentation, or improving their diction. Classes are available in Spanish and English. M. 626 255 792

Stefan Becker - CHIROPRACTOR

Creative Resilience - THErAPy AND CoACHINg

English-speaking, Australian-trained Chiropractor working in Barcelona, with 23 years of experience, who specialises in gentle, comfortable techniques. He has years of experience with back pain, neck pain, headaches, disc protrusions, and sciatica, but also with health and wellbeing. Emergencies on weekends

The oldest way of thinking about life and a different kind of therapy. Everybody is resilient, it’s just that sometimes we don’t feel it, or we just need a little time to get it back. Therapy and coaching for individuals, couples, parents and organisations. Psychologist qualified in london, latin America and Barcelona.

Caponata 3, 08034. M. 646 684 402

M. 698 370 552

Oliver Dawson - BorN CHrIoPrACTIC oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through specific spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Call today. Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623

Jonathan Hooker - PSyCHoTHErAPIST Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646

Canvis - PSyCHologIST

Uby Muñoz, Lic.Ac. - ACUPUNCTUrE

Canvis offers an international enviroment, where you can be assisted in English, german, Dutch, Italian, French, Spanish & Catalan. We provide psychological assessment and treatment to families, adults, adolescents and children. our committed team can help you through difficult periods and guide you to emotional well-being. Please contact us for a free introduction session.

Trained in England, Uby has experience successfully treating a wide range of health problems including: allergies, arthritis, chronic pain, migraines, headaches, IBS, infertility, IVF, insomnia, back pain, menopause, stress and anxiety. Uby specialises in natural fertility treatments and women’s health.

M. 616 099 328 / 654 389 074 / T. 93 487 46 66

Janeth Solá - MASSAgE Janeth Solá Ayurveda Massage Therapies Centre offers treatment for back and joint pain, stress, fatigue, insomnia and Vata related disorders. This centre located in the Sants district is the ideal place for those looking to improve their physical health and state of mind, practise relaxation and receive nutritional advice and dietary coaching from an Ayurveda viewpoint. Galileo 82. Sants. M. 655 560 162

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Bikram yoga have two centres in Barcelona with over 50 classes a week and options for children. Providing the ideal solution for back pain, stress, weight loss and other problems, they offer international staff and more than 18 years’ experience. reader offer: €25 for 10 days of unlimited yoga. Pau Claris 97, PRAL, 08009, T. 93 302 5130 Caravel•la la Niña 18, 08017, T. 93 205 0281

YogaconGracia - yogA An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will find a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. ycg has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes.


M. 660 514 795 Metro: Diagonal/Provenca


Pilates and muscle activation in a beautiful, fully equipped studio in gracia, run by Pilates professionals with more than 15 years of experience. Classes available for individuals and pairs, first class is free. Bring this ad and receive a 10% discount when you sign up for the first 3 months.

Casp 80, 1-3, 08010 M. 622 720 499

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm

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BCN Seguros - INSURANCE Local Barcelona Insurance Agency providing complete personal and business insurance services. (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.) we offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical! Advice given in Spanish, English and German.


To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: See our online directory at Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

M. 636 465 010

Fuente Fradera - LAwyERS Based in Barcelona, Fuente Fradera Lawyers is a rapidly growing law firm which covers areas of law including: real estate, commercial law and labour law. Their services are available for businesses, entrepreneurs and private consultations. As legal advisers, they offer a highly efficient, quality service which generates valuable customer confidence in their work. They speak English, French, German and Russian.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 Metro: Maria Cristina (L3) T. 93 490 9669

Gran Vía Corts Catalanes T. 93 317 5219

Spain accounting-


TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service Contact David Cook on M.678 702 369

Barcelona Women’s Network - BUSINESS

Supported charities 2014 - 2016

• Barcelona’s premier network for international women • Over 200 members from 30+ countries. • As a social club that supports local charities and offers a business network, activities include social gatherings, cultural outings, volunteer opportunities, and business seminars. we help women thrive and feel at home in Barcelona.

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George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 606 308 932

BarCeloNa oFFiCe SERVICED OFFICE SPACE Barcelona Office is a street-level premises by the Gothic Cathedral. In contrast to many coworking spaces, they focus on long-term professionals and companies who need a disturbance-free space with their own desk and storage facilities, along with their own key for 24 hour, seven days a week access. The space is open-plan and fully furnished. They provide: desk, chair, under-desk cabinet, shelving, fiber optic wireless internet connection, laser printers, photocopy, scanner, shared meeting area with sofa and 40 inch television for presentations. M. 677 738 860

10/26/16 10:10 AM


Mrs.Q Design Studio -

Step Up With V -




Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised services.Contact Mrs.Q for their competitive business packages which includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. They specialise in bespoke invitations for weddings and special occasions. Visit their Etsy page to see examples for their work www.etsy. com/shop/MrsQdesignstudio.

M. 699 260 938 Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio

Coaching services for global-minded professionals who want to take their career (and life!) to the next level. Find clarity, purpose and focus, and create your ideal work-life balance. Develop confidence, leverage your strengths and unique value proposition, communicate effectively and increase your opportunities! First consultation free of charge.


Garment Printing - BUSINESS


Garment Printing is a printing company based in Barcelona and the UK. They offer printed clothing with personalised logos for fashion brands, staff uniforms and promotional clothing. Printed promotional products, such as flyers, business cards, printed pens, and banners are also available—anything you could want customised with a logo! whether you’re a business or an individual, we can help you fulfil your branding and printing needs. Contact them today. Garment Printing

Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar, they can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more. T. 90 010 2527

Natacha elmir - PHOTOGRAPHER Professional photographer based in Barcelona offering a range of shoots—vacation, weddings, portraits, babies and events. Natacha also offers a four-hour introductory course to photography, which includes a mini shoot and four artistic shots of you and your loved ones.

C/ Roger De Flor, 289 T. 93 393 8194

M. 600 803 661

Fábrica de Flyers - BUSINESS


Fábrica de Flyers brings the successful concept of high class printing and design to Barcelona at competitive prices and provides a quality service to match. Eight years of experience on the German market made them one of the leading printing agencies, with clients all over Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Fábrica de Flyers is not an advertisment agency, but the best partner to create your publicity!

Complete internet services for companies and individuals. Put your business online with a wonderful website and professional emails. They build your social profiles, optimise your web pages for Google and make professional blogs to be managed directly by you.

Pujades 74-80, 3º 7ª, 08005 T. 93 485 6422

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M. 619 022 676


637 005 656

Home orden Frustrated with the mess in your home? Have no time? Don’t know where to start? Moving soon? Just moved in? My goal is to help you get your place in order and implement strategies to stay organised. we can work side by side or I can work alone, for a one off project or over a longer period according to your needs. FIRST CONSULATAION FREE

M. 625 204 328

Mac in Barcelona -


COMPUTERS Stéphane Clément is an Apple technician and consultant with over fifteen years of experience. Anna Piqué, a native from Barcelona, assists Stéphane with her business and communication background. Their focus is on providing good service and installations with clear communicative skills and personal advice. The aim is to solve your computer troubles and teach you how to improve your daily use of your Mac and its various accessories, giving you an opportunity for a more pleasant and safer computer experience. MOB / Bailen 11, Bajos, 08010 M. 608 994 599

Open until 11pm every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal files and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). Metro L3 (Fontana) or L4 (Joanic) T. 93 368 5770

BritSat - SATELLITE TV Missing out on British TV? Not to worry. with our latest equipment, extensive experience and fantastic after-sales service, we provide all UK and European TV via satellite and Internet installations. So don’t miss out on all the summer sporting action, including wimbledon, Euro ‘16 and the Rio Olympics. Phone or email Britsat for a competitive quote and expert advice. M. 649 605 917

10/26/16 10:10 AM

Coccinelle - HOME SERVICES

oak House - SCHOOL

Do you need a nanny, housekeeper or chauffeur? Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and the surrounding areas. Due to their expertise and rigorous selection methods, they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent or temporary positions to suit your needs. you can arrange everything now from the comfort of your own home! Call them today and quote Metropolitan free consultation.

Founded in 1968, pupils at Oak House are taught according to the UK national curriculum in early years and primary education. Secondary pupils follow a multilingual programme, with a firm emphasis on English. Oak House offers IGCSE qualifications to help prepare students for university courses in English. The school also offers the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme in English, as well as the National Bachillerato programme. The school’s modern installations are conducive to an active learning style. Their motto is ‘building futures’.

T. 93 125 8626

Sant Pere Claver 12-18, 08017 T. 93 252 40 20

Nie Barcelona

Corsa international


- DRIVING SCHOOL NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license or car registration.

Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324

M. 603 209 403

la Dolce Vita ITALIAN FASHION This new shop located in Born has exclusive Italian fashion (items of design, comfort, elegance and quality, made in Italy). They can offer advice on how to dress according to your figure and the occasion, highlighting your strengths to help you choose the most suitable clothes.

Ronda de Sant Pere 54 T. 93 518 4773 Metro: Urquinaona (L1 & L4) Arc de Triomf (L1) Facebook ladolcevitamodahombre Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm

Handyman - HOME SERVICES Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place so you can get your “fianza” back from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.

M. 645 691 475 Facebook handymanbarcelona74

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BCN l.i.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from 4 - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591

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DIRECTORY To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: We also have a new job section on our FREE CLASSIFIEDS

COACHING COLUMN SAM SAYS... BE TRUE TO YOURSELF Dear Sam, I love this city, but I’m getting antsy. I feel like I need to shake things up a bit and perhaps relocate for a few months—just to switch up the energy. This would have been fairly simple when I was a bachelor, as I have a job that allows me to work from anywhere and I love adventure. Now, however, I’m in a relationship of three years so there’s another person to think about. I’ve asked my girlfriend to come with me, but she has a job and a life here and doesn’t feel restless like I do. I don’t want to lose her by moving, yet, at the same time, I don’t want to stay and feel this continuous itch. How can I satisfy my need for change without losing my partner? Thanks in advance! Torn

Hi Torn, You’ve hit on a question that seems to increasingly surface as we get older. The issue of being true to ourselves and meeting our own needs at the potential expense of rocking the boat with those we care about. A few years ago I found myself in a similar position—feeling antsy and wanting a change, yet not being on the same page as my partner. It was a challenging time in our relationship and there were points when both of us didn’t think we’d make it. We came out of it, however, and looking back I realised a few things that would have helped (and ultimately did) make the process easier. The first thing, and it appears that you’ve already done this, is to acknowledge where ‘you’re at’. Saying the words out loud that you want a change and have itchy feet makes this transition real, to you and to everyone else involved. Often when we feel that something’s not quite right, we push it to the back of our minds or bury it deep within. This only causes resistance, which usually manifests itself into a feeling of increased anxiety. More often than not, this bubbles up and emerges at a later date. The second thing, and perhaps the most important, is to be as open and transparent about the process with your partner as you can. The more you let her in, discuss how you potentially see this working and brainstorm ideas with her (how long you’d go for, where you’d go, how you’d do long distance, etc.), the more she’ll feel a part of it. Don’t just tell her what your plans are or what you’re feeling—ask her opinion and how she feels about it. She might not love the prospect of you leaving for a few months, but at least you have given her the opportunity to voice her thoughts. This will make her feel heard, it’ll make her feel like you genuinely care (and aren’t trying to run away), and it’ll also open up the conversation and allow you both to start searching for possible solutions. Ultimately, there is no formula to ensure that if you leave your relationship will stay intact. There’s no guarantee, so you have to ask yourself: Is relocating worth the gamble? I’ve always believed that if we, as individuals, are not able to be the best versions of ourselves, then we can’t be our best for those around us. And so, if you feel that the only way to be the ‘best you’ is to have a change, meaning leaving Barcelona, then face that difficult discussion with your girlfriend. It’s not an easy conversation and it’s not an easy hurdle in any relationship— yet the more transparent, honest and willing to make it work you both are, the greater chance you’ll have of coming out (in one piece) on the other side.

Sam Mednick is a professional Life and Executive Coach based in Barcelona (www. A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years, working with companies as well as individuals, focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity, as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into her Podcast:

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Photo by Jocelyn Mandryk




By Ben Rowdon


I moved to Barcelona in June this year. After living in Buenos Aires for seven years, I wanted to be closer to my friends and family, but I didn’t want to move back home to Scotland. For me, Barcelona ticked all the boxes. It’s the perfect balance between both countries, retaining the vibrant Spanish culture and language without the insecurity and obscene inflation rates of Argentina. Not to mention the warm Mediterranean climate, outdoor lifestyle and excellent fitness facilities. Health and fitness have always been a big part of my life. I was captain of Scotland’s ice hockey team when I was in my teens, I got very into weightlifting in my early twenties, and I did four snowboarding seasons in New Zealand and the US. However, it wasn’t until I gave up drinking alcohol and incorporated healthy eating into my lifestyle that I saw the biggest changes—not only to my physique but also to my quality of life. I had a lot more focus, more energy to work and train, and found more structure and balance in life. I started my personal training business Ebylife three years ago. It all began when a number of my close friends asked if I would be willing to train them. At the time, I had my own English teaching business and was learning Spanish. Given my fitness background and enthusiasm for exercise and a healthy lifestyle, I felt it was something I could do very well. The sessions were such a great success that I decided to get my personal training qualification and it all grew organically from there. Ebylife caters to locals, expats and tourists in Barcelona. I offer personal training, tailor-made diets and workout plans to people of all ages and fitness levels. I also hope to launch an online personal training platform next year, which is something I’m really excited about. The health and fitness market is constantly growing and while personal training used to be exclusively for the rich and famous, it’s far more accessible and affordable now.

I got the idea to incorporate tourism into my business from my dad. He has always been massively into health and fitness and his obsession for a six pack clearly had some effect on me. We went on a family holiday to Egypt a few years ago and he spent more time working out in the hotel gym than he ever usually would at home. It made me realise that people like to take advantage of time abroad to maintain their fitness or to establish a fitness routine and a few healthy habits they can take back home with them. I work very closely with all my clients. Personal training is exactly that—personal. Everyone is so different, there’s no one size fits all. It’s important to find what works best for you and go with that. I like to get to know my clients, help them establish their fitness goals, assess their strengths and weaknesses, and create an enjoyable and sustainable workout plan based on their exact needs. I don’t believe in quick fixes or fad diets. Barcelona is such a beautiful place to work out. It offers a wide variety of great outdoor spaces to give personal training sessions, from the beaches to the various parks and squares. My favourite circuit for workout sessions is the Olympic Ring in Montjuïc. It’s difficult not to feel inspired in such a picturesque setting! Every aspect of life improves when you exercise. There are so many physical and mental benefits of leading an active and healthy lifestyle. When people start to work out, they instantly feel refreshed. They sleep better, feel less stressed and anxious, and have more confidence and energy, not to mention they look better. I wish I had had a personal trainer when I first started working out. It would have saved me years of misspent energy and failed attempts. One of the main reasons that so many people struggle to incorporate exercise into their daily lives is because of a lack of knowledge and a structured workout plan. With so much information available on the internet, it can be difficult to know what’s true, what’s false and where to start. It’s my job as a personal trainer to keep my education up-to-date so that I can provide my clients with safe, effective and accurate information. I completely understand that committing to personal training and a healthier lifestyle is difficult, and it may seem daunting, but it doesn’t have to be all or nothing. It’s all about balance and forming feasible and sustainable habits. It’s so easy to procrastinate and put things off until Monday, next week or next month. The act of procrastination is often worse than the task itself. Exercise can and should be fun. The sooner you begin, the sooner you will see the results.


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