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E XCLUS I V E M AG A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W EL L ERY B US I N E SS I N T H E BA LT I C S E A R EG I O N

September 2015 (29)

FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!


Baltic

Jewellery News is a magazine aimed at

the readers from the Baltic Sea region. It is devoted to the

significant issues of that area. Amber is obviously its leading theme – each of the Baltic countries has its contribution in the history of its treatment. The following pages of history are being written each day and it is worth thinking about what is going to be written on them. We say: amber – Lithuanian, Polish, Ukrainian, Russian. We use similar division when talk about the industry. In this way we highlight the differences between the style visible in the products from Lithuania, Poland, Russia or the Ukraine. There is, however, some kind of danger in this kind of division: we tend to forget that amber is predominantly Baltic and we all work together for its brand. Some contribute more than others – it is understandable. Others destroy the work of those more aware industry representatives from Poland, Lithuania, Russia and the Ukraine, even if they had worked only for themselves, still the positive outcomes of their work are beneficial for everyone. The so called “businessmen” in each of these countries are a real

want to buy them, but it is only a matter of time when they

disgrace for the industry. Their actions are calculated in

lose this trust. Everybody wants to make money, many of

order to bring a quick gain, without considering the con-

those “businessmen” at all cost. Who today asks the ques-

sequences in the long term. The consequences that every-

tion what’s next? When will the Chinese market close for

one will bear, as the Baltic amber brand, which has been

amber? After all, it is not just about using the opportunity

promoted very well thanks to the advantageous economic

and make profit as long as the Chinese market absorbs

situation, is endangered again. And if a brand is endan-

amber products, but what to do for it to keep taking the

gered, the profit is endangered as well.

products for as long as possible. Dishonesty surely doesn’t

The Ukrainians are mining their amber like there is

help here. And everybody will be dragged to the bottom.

no tomorrow, only to forestall the competition and the planned reform. They sell it below the market price, hap-

Enjoy the issue!

py that they have made profit after all. Because of their

Anna SADO

greed they don’t realise that in this way they take away the chance to develop from other people from their country. The people who want to benefit from the amber boom and hastily invest in treatment workshops, but also the producers from Poland or Lithuania – at the end of the day we all play to the same goal. The Chinese goal. It’s a pity, though, that some of the scored goals are … the suicide ones. There is no other name for an activity such as selling fake products as Baltic amber. The Chinese still trust the producers of amber products and


September 2015 (29)

CONTENT:

Topicalities 4

Increase in the Lithuanian amber mining tax

5

Two trade fair events in Warsaw in Autumn

6

Misconceptions about gold price drop

Tips 12

6

30

36

80

Trends in jewellery shops

Polish Jewellery Report

14

Amber mining in Poland

16

Gold Silver Time

18

Jubinale

20

Legnica Jewellery Festival Silver

22

Amberif Design Award

24

Cosmetics made of natural amber

26

Ambermart

German Jewellery Report

28

Gemworld Munich

30

Jewellery from Centres of this World

32

The changing German amber market

35

Intergem

Danish Jewellery Report

36

World’s breaking amber piece

38

The Danish amber market

Swedish Jewellery Report

40

From the swan to magic star

Finnish Jewellery Report

44

KORU5

46

The art of handmaking

Russian Jewellery Report

50

Amber. The second birth

54

Juwex

56

Personal accessories: risk vs opportunity in Russia

58

New standard chosen

Estonian Jewellery Report

60

Balance of fashion, jewellery and art

Latvian Jewellery Report

64

Art gallery Putti


Lithuanian Jewellery Report

70

Amber Trip is becoming increasingly popular

72

Jewellery Contest “Dialogue of Opposites”

78

Observed trends in the Lithuanian jewellery market

Ukrainian Jewellery Report

80

Chronicle of the amber war

Chinese Jewellery Report

84

World’s largest jewellery marketplace

Worldwide Jewellery Report

86

Price for raw amber by Kaliningrad Amber Combine

87

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber (Russian)

88

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber (Polish and Ukrainian)

89

The Worldwide Price for Amber Silver 925 Jewellery

90

The Worldwide Gold Price

92

Amber Chamber travels around the world

Amber for your health

94

Succinic acid biostimulating effect

Inclusions

95

Hallucinogenic grass found in amber

Technology 98

Choose the best suitable 3D technology

Other

102

Crime

103

Major Trade Fairs in August 2015 – March 2016

104

Flashbacks from the Amber Trip Gipsy party

106

Advertise in “Baltic Jewellery News“

108

Amber Trip application form

92

96 104

Baltic Jewellery News / September 2015 (29) Paplaujos st. 5–7, LT-11342, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. / Fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail: info@balticjewellerynews.com Editor / Anna Sado / E-mail: office@balticjewellerynews.com Designer / DANA SMITIENE / Translators / VERTIMU GURU, / CIRCULATION 2 000 Reporter: Poland: J. Magiera / info@bugala.pl, A. Kucharski / info@bugala.pl; A.Sado / anna.sado@amber.com.pl; Lithuania: V. Zygiene / info@balticjewellerynews.com; V. Vaškelytė / virginija.vaskelyte@lpr.lt; O. Guntoriute /info@balticjewellerynews.com; Poland: A.Sado / anna.sado@amber.com.pl; Germany: K. Rudloff / info@nordschmuck.de; Denmark: E. Johansen / EJ@DenmarkAmber.dk; Finland: A. Altarriba / antonio.altarriba@pp.inet.fi; Belarus: M. Bogdasarov / bogdasarov73@mail.ru; Russia: R. Walker / info@euromonitor.lt; I. Klimovich / klimovich@ambermuseum.ru. Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region. Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.

We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. Only with the help of various discussions perspective of the jewellery business of the region can become clear and the magazine – better. Thank you for the cooperation!


TOPICALITIES

Increase in the LITHUANIAN AMBER MINING TAX THIS ANNOUNCEMENT IS PREPARATORY TO THE FORTHCOMING TENDER FOR THE EXPLORATION AND MINING OF LITHUANIAN AMBER RESOURCES.

It

was proposed that the tax should be 20 % that

According to the Ministry of Environment, tax increase will generate an income of 41 million EUR:

of the amber market value. However, amber market prices in Lithuania have not been reviewed since 1992. In com-

• 70 % of this tax revenue will go to the state

parison, the same tax ranges between 15–25 % in the rest

budget.

of the European Union. This is equal to an increase from 20.2 EUR/kg to 280 EUR/kg for the amber fraction of up to

• 20 % for the environmental protection program

40 millimeters, and up to 900 EUR/kg for amber fraction

to the municipality in which the amber will be

greater than 40 millimeters.

extracted.

After the government meeting Prime Minister Algir-

• 10 % of this tax revenue will be paid to the state

das Butkevičius told reporters that tax increase should not

budget for the Environmental Protection Support

deter potential amber exploration and production bidders:

Programme fund. It will be used to acquire control

“The international demand and price of amber is con-

measures for amber resource extraction and intel-

siderably higher. It is not a cheap commodity.” – said the

ligence, and officials’ wages, who will carry out

Lithuanian prime minister.

monitoring and environmental control. In 2014, several companies requested Lithuanian Geological Survey to allow them to explore and extract amber from Curonian Lagoon Amber Bay. It is the first time amber extraction is going to be allowed from the Lithuanian soil. The change is driven by the decline in Russian production of amber in the Kaliningrad region and increased demand for raw materials in the market. The following arguments have been used to back up the increase of the amber extraction tax: • Raw amber material prices have increased several times over the past two years. • Amber resources are limited (according to the preliminary estimates, there are only 112 tons of amber in Juodkrantė). • Amber extraction will be carried out in the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Orga­ nization (UNESCO) protected Curonian Spit area. Law amendments should come into force from the beginning of 2016. They still must be approved by the Lithuanian Parliament.

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TOPICALITIES

TWO TRADE FAIR EVENTS IN WARSAW IN AUTUMN

The

quality of the event. The Gold Expo organisers rely mostly on the fact that the exhibitors and buyers have got used to Polish jewellery industry has been

the place. The trade fair Gold Silver Time was held at the

divided. Instead of one edition of trade fairs in autumn,

Expo XXI, situated near the centre of Warsaw, since 2001.

as it has been the case so far, there will be two events to

However, the organisers of the Gold Expo highlight their

choose from this year: Gold Silver Time and Gold Expo.

15 years of experience and recognisable brand that they

Both events will be held in the same city at the same time.

are trying to strengthen additionally in the face of danger.

How is it possible?

There vastly different reactions among the exhibitors.

Polish Trade Fair for Goldsmithery and Jewellery, Gold

Generally, three types of stance are dominant: I’m going to

Expo is the rival event for the International Trade Fair for

one of the two events; I’m going to exhibit at both events;

Jewellery and Watches, Gold Silver Time, which has been

this year I’m not going to exhibit at all. Everybody, includ-

held in Warsaw for 16 years. The idea to create it stems

ing the organisers are hoping that one of the events will

from the disappointment caused by the decision to move

turn out to be better after this year’s edition. However, it is

the Gold Silver Time Trade Fair to a new location at the

mostly the buyers who will decide about it, especially their

International Trade Fair Centre MT Polska in Marsa 56C in

attendance and willingness place orders. At the end of the

Warsaw. The organisers, the International Trade Fair Cen-

day, the crucial part for everyone will be the economic bill.

tre and Fine Arts Workshop, explained that the decision

This situation is not beneficial for anyone, and the

was taken in order to create better conditions for exhibi-

industry is in the worse position due to the choice it is

tions and improve the environment for conducting busi-

faced with. The Polish jewellery industry is too small and

ness. Meanwhile, the manager of the Expo XXI exhibition

still not strong enough economically to cope with two

hall, where the Gold Silver Time trade fair was held until

trade fair events. It is safe to assume, though, that both

2014, used an empty slot in his diary as an excuse to cre-

events will be significantly weaker than the one that has

ate a new event. Two businessmen, former members of

been organised so far. It appears that the Polish cannot

the Programme Board of the Gold Silver Time trade fair,

learn by their mistakes: over 10 years ago they were in a

headed the organisation of the new event.

similar situation, when there were two trade fair events for

Competing for clients, with its crucial stage in April

the jewellery industry held at the same time in Warsaw.

and May, is based mainly on prices. The exhibitors also try

Peace was declared after 3 years when both organisers

to take advantage of the situation and demand as high dis-

were significantly weaker. What is interesting, the gentle-

counts as possible, unfortunately, not taking into account

men who are now heading the Gold Expo team, back then

that low prices are usually directly proportional to the

were supporting the Gold Silver time.

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5


TOPICALITIES

Beautiful piece of gold and amber jewellery by “Italo Import-Export”

WHAT HAPPENED?!?

MISCONCEPTIONS ABOUT GOLD PRICE DROP On Monday 20 th July the gold price fell sharply, dropping 4.3 % from its Friday closing price. This note explains what happened and counters some misconceptions.

Market Commentary by WORLD GOLD Council

The

These factors are significant. The spectre of the much anticipated US rate rise has hung over the gold price for some time. And a slowdown in China, the world’s largest gold consumer, is clearly an issue many investors will be

majority of commentators explain

giving thought to.

gold’s recent price fall in the context of four themes:

But this is a partial view. Crucially, it misses some key

• The continued recovery in the US economy, the

drivers of the gold market that we believe are relevant to

associated strengthening dollar, and an expected

investors, namely:

rise in interest rates. This, they believe, represents

• Gold is different from commodities. Its demand

major headwinds for gold.

drivers are diverse and it has low correlations with

• A slowdown in China’s gold demand.

commodities and other assets classes.

• The recent broad commodity sell-off, which is itself

• China’s gold demand remains in good health.

a result of US dollar strength and concerns over

Demand may have eased since the highs of 2013,

China’s economic growth.

but its growth trend is intact. Q1 2015 was the

• And in the background, political tensions have

fourth best quarter on record and the People’s

eased, as illustrated by the tentative resolution of a

Bank of China has increased its gold reserves by

Greek bailout.

57 % since 2009.

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6


SPECULATIVE TRADING IN THIN MARKETS: A COMMON TRADE IN RECENT YEARS

• Headwinds such as the strong dollar and an expectation of US rate rises are probably overstated. It

The recent price fall, in common with similar price

rise were not already factored into the gold price.

action in the past few years, was triggered by isolated

And despite the US dollar index rising by 12.5 % in

trades. These trades are not representative of the broader

2014, the US dollar gold price was flat.

supply and demand dynamics. In thin trading conditions, these actions have a signifi-

RECENT PRICE FALLS – WHAT HAPPENED?

cant impact beyond the relative scale/volume of any cor-

On Monday 20th July 2015, the gold price fell sharply

responding net flows; they are often reflective of and can

during Asian trading hours. The price declined from a clos-

amplify capital market sentiment in the west. But although

ing price of US$1,134.14/oz on Friday, to an intra-day low

these traders provide a depth of liquidity in the market,

of US$1,086.18/oz, a 4.3 % fall. It quickly rebounded to

they are not the key buyers of gold. In our view, they do

stabilise a little above US$1,100/oz.

not shape demand over the longer term. These types of

This fall was precipitated by significant trades on

large gold trades have been a characteristic of COMEX in

the Globex platform on COMEX and the Shanghai Gold

the past, but they are less typical on the SGE, where trad-

Exchange (SGE). Trading data reveals that 4.7 tonnes (t)

ing volumes are lower, albeit increasing quickly. There has

was off-loaded on the SGE at 2.29am BST – this is an

been some speculation as to who made the trade on the

exceptionally large amount in a short space of time. Nor-

SGE. The Financial Times drew parallels with similar trades

mally little more than 40t trades in a day. (To put this in

in other metals in China recently, such as nickel and cop-

context, the average trade size per minute from July 17 to

per.2

July 22 is only 96 kg.) At around the same time volumes

Nevertheless, short-term speculative transactions,

spiked on COMEX. Both trades were made during periods

divorced from physical delivery and amplified by leverage,

of low market liquidity (chart 1).

are likely to remain centred on COMEX, rather than on

The price has seen further, less dramatic, declines since

exchanges that have been developed to facilitate wider

Monday. With trading volumes thin, and market sentiment

access to physical gold, such as the SGE.

for gold at low levels, the price has now fallen below the US$1,100/oz level. This is the lowest price level since Q1 2010.

A WIDER PERSPECTIVE

CHART 1.SELL ORDERS IN CHINA AND US TRIGGERED THE PRICE FALL

GOLD AND THE BROADER COMMODITIES COMPLEX

Trading volumes on COMEX and the SGE around sharp price decline

“The Bloomberg Commodities Index dropped to a

No. contracts

No. contracts

13-year low on Monday 20 July, weaker than after the

3,500,000

banking meltdown of 2008 and the euro-zone crisis of

3,000,000

2012... Gold, the most heavilyweighted commodity in the

6,000 5,000

index, is the latest to get hit hard, socked by a stronger

2,500,000

4,000

dollar and concern about a slowdown in China.” Bloomb-

1,500,000 3,000

This is a perfectly valid statement, but we believe it is

1,000,000

2,000 1,000

erg, 21 June 2015 simplistic. By lumping gold in with other commodities it

500,000 02:26

02:28

02:30

02:32

Active Gold Future (COMEX)

02:34

02:36

02:38

02:40

glosses over what makes gold different, and from an inves-

0

tors perspective, relevant. Gold is unique in the diversity of its demand drivers.

Au T+D Gold (SGE, rhs)

Gold is used in:

Price declined from around US$1, 130/oz to jusi US$1, 110 between 02:28 and 02:30 (reaching intraday low of US$1, 086/oz)

• electronics and cutting-edge technology; • in jewellery, as a luxury good and of cultural and symbolic value; and

Note: Times are British Summer Time Source: Bloomberg, World Gold Council

• as money and an insurance asset.

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7

TOPICALITIES

would be surprising if expectations of a US rate


These drivers of demand respond differently to differ-

gold’s 1-year annualised daily return volatility is significant-

ent economic conditions. Heightened systemic risk typi-

ly lower than the S&P GSCI.

cally boosts gold’s role as an insurance asset. Economic than a simple commodity. Gold demand in many key coun-

CHINA’S GOLD DEMAND MAY HAVE EASED, BUT IT REMAINS IN GOOD HEALTH

tries, including China, is not directly related to industrial

While gold demand may be down year-on-year, the

consumption which drives demand for other commodi-

growth trend is still strongly positive. Although China’s

ties. It cannot be directly linked to a country’s pattern

jewellery demand in Q1 2015 was down from the record

of consumption of commodities, such as nickel, copper,

level in Q1 last year, it was 27% higher than its 5-year

sugar or livestock. It should not be a surprise that over the

average. And consumer demand – jewellery plus bar and

longer-term gold’s performance frequently diverges from

coins – in Q1 2015 was the fourth best quarter on record,

the broader commodities complex. For example, look-

surpassed only by the surge in demand triggered by the

ing at the performance of the Bloomberg Commodities

price fall in 2013.

TOPICALITIES

growth boosts jewellery demand. This makes if far more

Index since 2000, the index is broadly flat, while gold is up

Although China is the world largest gold consumer

75%, even at today’s prices. And although the gold price

and producer, it is still a relatively young gold market. Pri-

is down year-to-date, it has still outperformed a range of

vate ownership of gold investment products was illegal

commodities indices, including the Bloomberg Commodi-

until 2002. Since then Chinese investors have purchased

ties Index (chart 2).

in excess of 1,530 t of bars and coins, worth US$55bn at today’s prices – this is equivalent to what all investors hold through gold-backed ETFs worldwide. Over the same peri-

CHART 2: GOLD HAS OUTPERFORMED THE

od China’s consumers bought 5,282 t of gold jewellery,

COMMODITIES COMPLEX

worth US$189bn. Chinese demand for gold is driven by a diverse range of factors, certainly more than are captured by top-level

Gold vs the commodities complex US$/oz

macro-economic indicators. And certainly more diverse

Index level

2000

250

than what drives demand for commodities.

1800 1600

Beyond economic growth, gold is embedded in China’s

200

culture. Chinese New Year and weddings are key events in

1400 1200

150

China’s gold consumption. In addition, China’s authorities

1000 800

have developed a range of pro-gold policies, from legal-

100

ising bar and coin demand in 2002 through to opening

600 400

up its gold market via the SGE International Board in the

50

Shanghai Free Trade Zone in 2014.

200 0

2000

2002

2004

Gold (USS/oz)

2006

2008

2010

2012

2014

0

THE PEOPLE’S BANK OF CHINA (PBOC) INCREASING ITS GOLD RESERVES IS POSITIVE FOR THE GOLD MARKET

Bloomberg Commodity Index

Source: Bloomberg, World Gold Council Gold’s correlation with other assets is important too. Its low level of correlation with many other assets makes it a good asset for investors to hold in their portfolio.

The central bank’s recent announcement that it had increased its gold reserves from 1,054, to 1,658 t – a 57 % increase – was seen by many market commentators as disappointing.

While there will be times when gold moves in tandem with the commodity complex, its longer term correlation is

This, we feel, is based on misperceptions and false

far weaker than many suppose. Gold and the Bloomberg

expectations. The announcement was broadly in line with

Commodity Index exhibit a correlation coefficient of less

our understanding of the situation in China. Indeed, in our

than 40% over the past 20 years and gold’s correlation

briefing note, Understanding China’s Gold Market, from

with the S&P GS Commodity Index (GSCI) is less than 30%.

August 2014, we stated that, “...if the PBoC makes an

Similarly, gold’s diverse spread of demand drivers mean its

announcement its gold holdings will have increased by at

volatility is lower than most commodities. For example,

least 500 t.”

www.balticjewellerynews.com

8


suggests the US rate increases will be moderate and real rates will be below 4 % for some time.

how China, along with other central banks, views gold as

In addition, markets are forward-looking and the

a key reserve asset as it continues to seek diversification

forthcoming rate rise has been well flagged. It

away from the US dollar. A key challenge with official sec-

would be surprising if expectations of US rate rise

tor purchases, especially in China, is that they may occur

were not already factored into the gold price.

in a more opaque form than is typical elsewhere. Not only

THE INVESTMENT CASE FOR GOLD REMAINS INTACT

do entities other than the PBoC make ‘sovereign’ gold purchases but the PBoC, in its recent statement, repeated its position that, in addition to its direct holdings, China

Crucially, the long-term investment case for gold is

‘holds gold through its people’.

not based on short-term price movements. Gold plays a more important role in a portfolio. Its low correlation with

GOLD, THE US RECOVERY AND MACRO HEADWINDS

many other assets – for example, its 10 year correlation

US interest rates and the US dollar are the primary

diversify a portfolio. New Frontier Advisor’s analysis sug-

points of reference for many capital market participants

gests that the optimal allocation to gold in a portfolio is

and trading houses in parts of Europe and the US. While

between 2–10 %, depending on the investors’ risk toler-

increases or the expectation of increases in both real

ance. Although vitally important for investors, it is often

rates and the dollar’s value represent headwinds for gold,

overlooked by many commentators. And our analysis

these factors are not as uniformly negative as are often

shows that this holds true even in periods when the dollar

described.

strengthens. In our view, a well constructed strategic allo-

with the S&P500 is -0.1 % – makes it a good investment to

• Gold and the US dollar. The belief that a stronger

cation does not need to be constantly adjusted.

dollar is bad for gold came to the fore in the 1980s and 1990s. We agree it is a headwind, but we

IMMEDIATE RESPONSE OF PHYSICAL MARKETS

believe the relationship between gold and the dol-

Falls in the gold price are not universally perceived

lar has changed.

as negative. US dollar price moves have translated into

During the 1980s and 1990s the market fundamen-

price falls in many price sensitive markets: -3.2 % in India,

tals were quite different to today. Mine production

-3.6 % in China, and -1.2 % in Turkey. Here, consumers

was growing strongly and central banks were sell-

will view lower prices as a buying opportunity.

ing gold. Supply was high and rising. Today, mine

As a result, despite the summer months being a tradi-

production is expected to plateau in 2015 and tail

tional quiet period, retailers in these price sensitive markets

off thereafter. Central banks are overwhelmingly

have seen an uptick in consumer interest. The premium in

net buyers. And the shape of demand has changed

Turkey edged up to US$2/oz. Consumer interest in India

too. Gold demand is Asian-centric. India and China

has increased too. While the monsoon season is usually a

alone account for 42 % of total gold demand and

very quiet period for Indian gold demand, this bodes well

52 % of consumer demand.

for the festive season beginning in September. And there

To illustrate the point that the relationship between

are been a myriad of articles reporting the an uptick in

the US dollar and gold may have changed, in 2014

consumer demand in the Middle East – having been in the

the US dollar index strengthened 12.5 % while the

doldrums for some time, lower prices have sparked a wave

US dollar gold price was flat.

of interest.

• Gold and interest rates. It is true that higher real For more information:

interest rates raise the opportunity cost for inves-

› www.gold.org

tors holding gold. But our analysis of the gold price and previous rate conditions found gold may perform reasonably well in a positive rate environment. Our analysis indicates that gold is only negatively affected when real rates nudge higher than 4 %. The current outlook

www.balticjewellerynews.com

9

TOPICALITIES

We believe the PBoC’s confirmation of its revised gold holdings is supportive for the gold market. It reiterates


TIPS

TRENDS in jewellery shops As one may notice, during the last years in the jewellery industry, the main trend was expressed in the form of very decorative display stands, packages and other such accessories. By Justyna MAGIERA

The

jewellery stores took part in a com-

petition of fancy packages, unconventional display stands in the shop window, etc. The main elements were, apart from increasingly warmer and expressive structure of fab-

the package. No matter the location, the embellishments

rics, the additional ornaments. As far as the colours are

were always there.

concerned, the most popular were red, brown and vari-

For some time we have observed a change in trends

ous shades of golden and silver. Sparkling and patterned

and this ornaments are slowly becoming outfashioned.

structure of a fabric was a must. The ornament varied from

The trends in jewellery industry have made a full circle, as

little bows, rubbers, ribbons to be tied by the customer, up

they often do in fashion. At present, the popularity was

to butterflies, flowers or other patterns printed on top of

regained by the simple and natural accessories without

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12


1991

unnecessary ornaments. Simple but elegant shapes, uniform colours and top quality materials are now the main features of the most fashionable packages and display stands. In display stands and in packages the basic colours are black, white, various shades of beige or gray. Any intense colour will only be used as a minor accent. All that results from the fact that until recently most of the jewellery companies was anonymous, i.e. they didn't

we are changing ...

the meaning

of quality

have their own brand. An elaborate package or original display stand were the only way to distinguish oneself from the competition. Nowadays most of the companies operates under their own brand and the display stands or packages have lost their distinctive function. Today they should merely be a neutral background, a subtle means of brand promotion. They cannot be garish, too expressive or too unusual. On the contrary, they should be subdued, neutral and simple, and the only ornament should be the company's logo, clear and visible.

Such solutions are now accessible to all companies, even the smallest ones. Larger companies have made one step further – not only they add their logo onto accessories available on the market, but also they create their own accessories. They decide on the shape, colours and dimensions, taking all and any detail into consideration, as all such details should be coherent and premeditated. Independently of the chosen option, we should always keep in mind that nothing will advertise our company better than top quality of the finished product. That applies above all to the offered products. However all the accessories used in sales are also of great significance: starting from packages and jewellery bags, through trays, busts and other display stands, up to all types of jewellery furniture. So we should always remember to choose only such a supplier of all mentioned accessories, who will provide only top quality products.

furniture packaging displays P.A.T. ul. Legionów 100 42-200 Częstochowa, Poland tel. +48 34 360 23 81 email: info@bugala.pl

www.bugala.pl


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

AMBER MINING in Poland By Anna SADO

The

deposited at relatively small depths. Krzysztof Twardowski, who deals with searching for and mining amber for over 20 years, estimates that currently there are about 20 teams increased demand for

actively digging in Pomerania, who mine up

amber on international markets, especially

to 2.5 tons of amber per month. Their num-

in China, has resulted in increased interest in

ber has gone up especially in the last year, due

the topic of local deposits and their mining

to the increased demand for the raw material.

in Poland. The issue of deposits in Górka Lubartowska in the Lubelskie Region has been the most emotive for a long time. There is meant to be over 1,000 tons of amber deposited there. These estimates date back to the 1980s., thus

The statistics of the Marshall’s Office Anna SADO

seem to confirm that tendency. They indicate

The author is a journalist specialising in jewellery related topics and an editor of the Amber Portal amber.com.pl

that in 2013 about 635 kg of raw material was mined – the highest amount since 2005, and more than in 2014. Though, the statistics don’t reflect the overall mining scale, as the majority of the teams searching for amber

the existing documentation is by far not sufficient to launch mining. In December 2014 the Marshall’s

don’t register the raw material that they find at all, or

Office announced a tender for area reckoning and search-

declare the amounts that are too small to justify an applica-

ing for amber deposits. The winner was a Lithuanian com-

tion for a mining licence. However, the number of licences

pany who offered a very high lease rate – 8,000 PLN for

for area reckoning and amber mining leaves no room for

each hectare of the area, which comprises nearly 80 hec-

interpretation: it has increased from 10 granted in 2011, to

tares. The problem is that the company has not turned up

nearly 60 currently. It resulted from the change in geologi-

to sing the contract, and the Marshall’s Office doesn’t want

cal law regulation in 2011, according to which it is neces-

to sign a contract with the runner up bidder (who offered

sary to apply for an amber mining licence, however area

a significantly lower rate: 1560 PLN/ha), nor has it prepared

reckoning and searching for amber requires only a project

a new tender.

of geological works accepted by an appropriate Marshall’s

There is another deposit located in the Lubelskie

Office. Currently, only one licence, granted in 2007, is valid.

Region, in the so-called Parczew Delta, whose deposits are

It was granted to a company which searches for granite in

estimated to be 256 tons. Last year, there were heated dis-

the areas where amber is an accompanying mineral (from

cussions about potential cooperation between Parczew and

January to March 2015, 80 kilo of amber was mined there).

Gdańsk. The plans included conducting professional train-

It is estimated that the Polish jewellery industry needs

ing in basic amber treatment for the local employees, so

about 150 tons of the raw material of jewellery quality per

as the area could become more than a raw material supply

year. National mining cannot satisfy it, even including fish-

base for the Pomerania, however after the local elections in

ing on beaches and illegal mining (especially considering

November 2014 the subject has not been mentioned.

that not all of that material ends up on the Polish market).

Therefore, the Pomerania Region remains the main raw

Even though Polish companies are supplied with the raw

material supply base for the Polish amber producers. Mining

material from Russia and Ukraine, they still complain about

is quite dispersed there and takes place mainly on privately

the insufficient amount of it, especially when it comes to

owned land. The rich deposits located in the Kashubian

the high quality material. This leads to the increased inter-

Lake District, estimated to have 640 tons of amber, is not

est in mining the local deposits, both by the amber produc-

mined – mainly due to the fact that the deposits are located

ers and the local authorities.

at considerable depths, but also because the documenta-

In June 2014 a conference organised from the Pomeranian voivodeship Marshall’s initiative was held in Gdańsk.

tion is insufficient. However, there are many places with easy access,

Representatives of government administration and local

although not as rich in raw material, where amber is

authorities discussed the most important issues of the

www.balticjewellerynews.com

14


SEARCHING FOR AMBER DEPOSITS BETWEEN 2000 AND 2015 Number of submitted applications

60 50 40 30 20 10 0

2000–2005

2006–2011

2012–2015

AMBER MINING BETWEEN 2005 AND 2014 kg

700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0

2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014

amber industry with its representatives. The problems included lack of access to amber deposits, and arduous and time consuming administrative procedures of granting access to city plots in order to search for amber, growing problem of illegal amber mining (loss of equipment and 500 PLN fine is not a sufficient means of prevention), lack of detailed geological studies that would encourage the potential private investors to take up searching for amber. The discussion is not easy, as both groups have conflicting interests. Bringing back a combined licence for searching for amber and its mining, including amber in the mining law, changing the regulations in order to tighten punishment for illegal mining – these are only some of the demands that were meant to be submitted to the Ministers of Economy and Justice. What are the chances for their realisation? A lot depends on the results of the Polish parliamentary elections that will take place in autumn. However, the most important thing is for the authorities and amber producers to be willing to continue their discussions, as well as the integration of the entire amber circle in order to speak in the same, strong voice about the important issues.


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

GOLD SILVER TIME – New Opportunities for Development

The

Report by GOLD SILVER TIME Press Office

16th Gold Silver Time Fair will take

place at a new venue–the MT Polska Exhibition and Congress Centre in ul. Marsa 56C, Warsaw. There are many

agenda tailor-made to suit the needs of its participants.

reasons that make coming to GST worthwhile.

GST’s competitions are among its biggest attractions: the

The new venue offers an array of advantages, like

PRESENTATIONS Open Art Jewellery Competition we have

over 10,000 m of exhibition space under one roof in a

held for 15 years in partnership with the STFZ Goldsmith-

state-of-the-art centre adapted to the needs of the jewel-

ing Artists’ Association and the brand new Master of Gold,

lery and watch industry, 4000 m of outdoor space and

Silver, Time and 3D Space, in partnership with the Polish

1200 m2 of conference and office space, ground-level and

Handicraft Guild. GST will also be accompanied by exhibi-

underground parking for 600 automobiles–GST’s former

tions of: Amber in Folk Art by the PAS Museum of the

location lacked such infrastructure which made it uncom-

Earth and Silver, the annual post-competition presentation

fortable for the growing fair for several years now. The

of contemporary jewellery art (this year’s subject: Borders)

organisers have also introduced a number of solutions to

organised by the Art Gallery in Legnica.

2

2

improve the organisation and logistics and make doing

The Gold Silver Time International Jewellery and Watch

business easier, including a new buyer registration system,

Fair is Poland’s biggest autumn jewellery and watch show.

meeting points and a shuttle bus. The Design Gallery, a

The abundant, 15-year experience of the MCT Interna-

place that is a veritable Mecca for art and designer jewel-

tional Fair Centre, GST’s organiser, its excellent knowledge

lery lovers from all over the world, is getting a new look.

of the industry’s needs and the highly-professional GST

Art and designer jewellery has been one of Gold Silver

team all serve to consolidate the show’s standing. This year

Time’s calling cards for years as well as for Poland abroad.

the organiser also expects some 6000 visitors (including

Just like amber jewellery: with the growing demand for

non-industry visitors for whom the show will be open on

ornaments with the “Baltic gold,” the most recent editions

3 October) and about 300 exhibitors (the list is not yet

of the Warsaw show have seen an increas-

closed, those interested can apply to:

ing number of representatives from this

j.bijok@mct.com.pl).

sector whose range includes both small silver and amber jewellery and the high-

16th GOLD SILVER TIME International

est quality amber gemstones in filigree

Jewellery and Watch Fair

gold settings. Other, sectors regularly

1–3 October 2015

represented at GST include gold, silver

MT Polska Exhibition and Congress

and fashion jewellery, precious stones and

Centre, ul. Marsa 56C, Warsaw

gemstones, machines and tools, packag-

To find out more about exhibition

ing and display components.

terms and conditions, how to get

Another

of

Gold

Silver

Time’s

strengths is its professional framework

Jewellery by Jacek BYCZEWSKI

www.balticjewellerynews.com

16

there and the GST agenda, go to: www.zlotosrebroczas.com


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

while last day (Saturday, 13.06) was also open to general public. Already on the first day the buyers turned up in great numbers and made exhibitors busy all they long. The biggest number of buyers was noted on the first two days. In total, during all three days of the fair, the number of visitors has increased by 25 %,compared with last year and so far is a record number. There was also noted a significant increase in the number of foreign guests – mainly from Slovakia, Hungary and China. The survey conducted during the exhibition shows that 90 % of visitors is convinced that they would visit the fair also next year. This

JUBINALE 2015

is an obvious signal that Jubinale met the expectations of buyers and gives hope that the expansion of Jubinale will continue in the coming years. Traditionally, at the end of the first day of Jubinale

Report by JUBINALE Press Office

(06.11.2015) exhibitors attended Exhibitors Evening, where they had the opportunity to make new contacts,

The eighth edition of Summer Jewellery and

meet friends from the industry and exchange experiences

Watches Trade Fair Jubinale, which was held on

in relaxed atmosphere and with a glass of wine. The event

11–13.06.2015, once again became the main meeting

was held at the Polish Aviation Museum, which was wel-

point for the jewelery industry before the summer season

comed with a great enthusiasm.

in Central Europe and turned Krakow into the capital of

During the gala dinner, once again the three statuettes

jewellery. Due to the the exhibition being held on the larger

of “Gem of Jubinale” were awarded by the Organizer to

hall of EXPO Krakow fairgrounds (area of 5.000 m2), near-

Exhibitors, who have supported Jubinale in a special way.

ly 200 exhibitors from Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Czech

This year’s statuettes went to “Asimex Plus”, “Robis” and

Republic, Spain, Lithuania, Germany, Poland, Portugal, Tur-

the Portuguese association “AORP”. The second year on the new fairgrounds of EXPO

key, Ukraine and Italy could take part in this unique event. The offer presented at Jubinale covered almost all

Kraków strengthened everyone’s belief that Jubina-

sectors of the jewelery and watch industry. The products

le has a huge potential for further development and

offered by Jubinale exhibitors came from different parts of

internationalization.

the world, which gave the buyers an opportunity to find

The dynamic development of the exhibition, constantly

exceptional collections of different kinds. The interna-

growing number of exhibitors, a record number of buy-

tionality of Jubinale becomes its strong side and pro-

ers from Poland and further, significant increase in the

vides the buyers with the opportunity to establish

number of visitors from abroad are the result of long-term

contacts on an international scale, which is extremely

efforts of both, the Organizer and Exhibitors. Thanks to

important in times of strong competition at every level.

those efforts, we have created an exhibition, which has

In addition to companies and designers representing a

become an important event for professionals not only

trade offer, Jubinale was attended by the Trade Patrons of

from Poland but also from many neighbouring countries.

Jubinale – The International Amber Association, The

We believe that future editions of Jubinale will bring new

Association of Jewellery Experts and Polish Craft Associa-

records, and its undoubted growth will remain at a similar

tion, who willingly gave free advices on their stands. There

level for many years.

were also present the representatives of other, highly

If you would like regularly see the important informa-

respected industry organizations, such as Gallery of Art in

tion about Jubinale, like us on Facebook, were we regularly

Legnica, the School of Fine Arts in Czestochowa, AORP –

publish news about the fair, the profiles of artists and offer

Jewellery and Watchmaking Assosiation of Portugal and

of exhibitors.

other organizers of Polish and foreign jewellery exhibitions.

The next edition of Summer Jewellery and Watches Trade Fair JUBINALE will take place on 2–4.06–2016.

The first two days of the exhibition (Thursday 11.06 and Friday 12.06) were open only to jewellery industry,

www.balticjewellerynews.com

18


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

LEGNICA

Jewellery Festival SILVER Report by LEGNICA Press Office

On

2015

entitled “Boundaries of the Global Art”, which has been a fellow part of the Festival for an intermittent 16 years. edition of

That very session hosted interesting presentations of the

the Legnica Jewellery Festival SILVER.

7

theorists and practitioners, among others: Tasso Mattar,

th

of June ended the 36

th

This year’s edition was really impressive.

Eva Burton, Andi Gut, and Marta Hryc. Moreover, the pro-

The culmination of the Festival, which took place on the

gramme of the Festival was enriched by the “Silver Screen”

15 and 16  of May, traditionally attracted a multitude of

series’ projections, by a jazz concert or by the BOUNDA-

Polish and foreign guests – the artists, the people of the

RIES photo contest. In the city, the Festival was being fore-

branch, along with the fans of the avantgarde jewellery.

told by happenings of visual art. It was the latter events

During the “silver” weekend the openings of 24 exhibi-

that stood behind the embellishing of the marketplace’s

tions took place, supported by the accompanying events,

giant stony ring with a “diamond”, and behind the em-

amongst which it is worth to mention a science session,

ploying of the barricade tape to blaze the trail between the

th

th

Jarosław WESTERMARK – 1st Award

Bogumiła, Andrzej ADAMSCY – 1st Award

www.balticjewellerynews.com

20


Competition BOUNDARIES. The artists were awarded with

convenience – by border poles.

the prizes of the total value that exceeded 40 thousand

The crowded openings of the avant-garde jewellery

zloty, including also 4.5 kg of the silver granules founded

exhibitions were honoured by the presence of authors and

by KGHM. This year’s theme of the competition, BOUNDA-

curators of the exhibitions from Poland, Italy, Spain, Ger-

RIES, had attracted the record high number of artists (337

many, Belgium, Lithuania, Argentina and South Korea. In

designers from 42 countries). The Grand Prix had been split

the cycle: „About the Artist” were presented exhibitions

into two, as it was given, on the one hand, to the duet of

of: Ruudt Peters, Rüdiger Lorenzen,

Polish designers: Bogumiła and

Andi Gut, Frieda Dörfer, Katrin Feul-

Andrzej Adamski, and, on the

ner, Eunmi Chun, Mia Kwon, Elisa-

other hand, to Jarosław Wester-

betta Duprè, Ewa Effenberg, Marta

mark. The second award went to

Hryc and Anna Król. There were also

Alexander Blank (Germany) and

presented international group exhi-

Mireia Calaf Mensa (Spain). Jing

bitions: Amber Chamber – curated

Yang (China) received Award of

by Heidemarie Herb, Sur o no Sur –

the Gallery of Art in Legnica and

Argentinian jewellery – curated by

Organizers’ Special Award went

Eva Burton, Preziosa Young – curat-

to Katja Köditz (Germany). The

ed by Gio Carbone, Gdańsk Baltic

awards’ ceremony evoked a true

Amber Biennale – curated by Wim

climax of emotions, hence the

Wandekerckhove

and

Sławomir

names of the winners had not Awards

Fijałkowski, Amberif Design Award curated by Ewa Rachoń and Silver

been previously known. Among the other festive

Schools: Hochschule Wiesmar and Vilnius Academy of

moments, it is worthwhile to reminisce the act of award-

Arts. In the cycle DEBUTS we could saw works of Maria

ing The Gallery of Art with the gilded statuette of David.

Antonina Łęcicka oraz Karolina Szymanowska. Among

That was done by Tasso Mattar, a merited jeweller and

group exhibition of Polish artists is worth to mention

the author of that statuette which, for 30 years, has been

about: 25 for 25. Jewellery of the time of freedom, Polish

given away to honour people and institutions working for

Goldsmiths Groups, 25 Years of STFZ. and We from Jed-

the benefit of the contemporary jewellery. Yet another

wabne curated by Piotr Rybaczek from La Basílica Galería.

surprise was the birthday cake, handed to the numerously

Exhibitions of jewellery were accompanied by film shows

gathered designers, representing Goldsmithing Artists’

of Katja Köditz and Pangenerator.

Association (STFZ). The latter event took place at the open-

The main event of the Festival was announcement

ing of the exhibition that celebrated STFZ’s 25th anniver-

of the results of the 24 Legnica International Jewellery

sary.

th

www.balticjewellerynews.com

21

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

venues of exhibition, curiously marked – for the spectators’


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Amberif Design Award

2015 MINESIS

Report by AMBERIF Press Office

E

very year Amberif organises “Amberif Design

exclusivity and its shapeability stimulated makers to pro-

Award” to promote creative thinking and new

vide form and material to their ideas, desires and values.

ideas in the design of amber art jewellery and

They created non-perishable symbols to reveal their inner

to develop the knowledge about Baltic amber’s proper-

world. Deciphering the early amber jewellery today we are

ties and nature. This year the competition’s subject was

traced back to our historic roots and the provenance of our

“Mimesis”. Barbara Schmidt – Competition Curator

values. Taking an even closer look we recognise that hu-

describes the subject: “Aristoteles described it as “Mime-

man values have hardly changed within epochs: They are

sis“: the attempt to undisclose the very basics and forces

as elemental as the natural amber.”

which move us all. Since more than 100 000 years men and women make and wear jewellery. Was the first piece

THE MEMBERS OF JURY:

a love gift, a reconfirmation for peace, a healing media, a

Ms. Roberta BERNABEI – UK

group marker, a memorable, an object for rituals, a media

Ms. Jacqueline RYAN – Italy

for exchange, or a sign for the own individuality and en-

Ms. Natalia HATALSKA – Poland

hancement of the own beauty? Very early natural material

Mr. Tanel VEENRE – Estonia

like amber has been used. Its inspiring colour spectrum, its

Mr. Marcin ZAREMSKI – Poland

WINNERS:

THE GRAND PRIZE

THE AMBER PRIZE

sponsored by Mr Paweł Adamowicz,

sponsored by the International Amber Association

the Mayor of the City of Gdańsk PLN 10,000:

1 kg of amber :

Marta RŻANEK, Łódź, Poland

Adriana LISOWSKA, Gdynia, Poland

www.balticjewellerynews.com

22


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT THE SILVER PRIZE sponsored by the KGHM Polska Miedź S.A. 1 kg of silver:

Andrzej COFTA, Gdańsk, Poland

THE JURY DECIDED TO AWARD THREE HONORARY MENTIONS TO THE ENTRIES WHICH BEST EVOKE WHAT THE TOPIC OF MIMESIS BRINGS TO MIND:

Marta RŻANEK, Łódź, Poland  Michał M.B. FATYGA, Jantar, Poland  Ewa ŚLIWIŃSKA, Poznań, Poland 

www.balticjewellerynews.com

23


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

THE FAITH HAS SURVIVED AGES AND NOWADAYS,

amber is still valued in complementary medicine in many parts of the world

COSMETICS MADE Report by SUCCINITE Press Office

R

of natural amber

deeply rooted customers’ faith in the efficiency of natural ingredients – in this case amber which is ascribed to many

ecently, many cosmetics’ manufacturers used

positive features - mainly moisturizing, toning and smooth-

amber. In the most of cases, cosmetics base on

ing. Unfortunately, as it results from research conducted

extracts which contain traces of amber or on the

by Wyższa Szkoła Zawodowa Kosmetyki i Pielęgnacji

ones which do not contain it at all - contrary to young

Zdrowia in collaboration with Laboratory of Technological

Polish brand Succinite which prides on the fact of using

Processes (LPT) Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University

mostly natural ingredients.

of Technology, many of used amber extracts contain

Medicinal properties of amber have been known for

traces of amber, which means that it is not active

ages. In folk medicine it was used as snake oil: as of amber

ingredient effectively but only marketing one in

liqueur working on many afflictions, through amber beads

order to attract customers’ attention.

curing thyroid and strep throat, unto censing with smoke in order to exorcize the dead hand. Admittedly, the science does not confirm any medical properties of amber but there is also no reason to stop believing in folk medicine’s wisdom. Especially that the faith has survived ages and nowadays, amber is still valued in complementary medicine in many parts of the world. In the recent years, amber has been discovered by cosmetic’s manufacturers such as Formona, Bielenda but also Stenders, in order to sell it on all markets of the world successfully. One of the reasons of their commercial success is

www.balticjewellerynews.com

24


amber – herbal ointment, face and body gel, body lotion and hair mask (those three last are this year newcomers).

declares, amber, as far as possible, is bought from local

There is also amber oil in the company’s offer – perfect

Baltic fishermen. It is cleaned and stone-grounded. Nat-

mainly for bites and rheumatics and amber incense which

ural ingredients in cosmetics compose more than 95 %

improves ion structure of air and reduces fatigue.

and synthetic ones are used only when they do not have

In the cream, micronized amber has been connected

any natural equivalents. ”We use only high value ingredi-

with such active ingredients as argan oil, hyaluronic acid

ents because it is important to us. Accordingly, we launch

and vitamin E, thanks to which skin is highlighted and

onto the market only those cosmetics which will be able

smooth and wrinkles less visible. On the other hand, the

to fulfil demanding customers’ excpectations.” – explains

amber ointment contains –except even 10% of amber –

Max Kwiatkowski, generator of the Succinite brand and

herbs from Polish meadows: buckeye, arnica, thyme and

open last year private Museum of Amber in Jarosławiec.

sea-buckthorn, which provides analgesic and demulcent

The generator of his own has big demands when it comes

features, as well as better blood supply of muscles and

to his products: hair shampoo did not have its own mar-

joints. In gel and lotion, additional ingredients are algae

ket premiere because it was “not perfect enough”. Fans

and collagen, which provide not only the feeling of fresh-

of Succinite’s cosmetics will have to wait for it until June

ness but also moisturize and smooth.

2016. The quality is the most important thing.

Do those cosmetics work? Professional research made

This is why – although the brand exists more than a

on the representative group of women will be delegated

year – there is only 5 cosmetic products on the market

this year. Meanwhile, about cosmetics’ efficiency evinces

at the moment: rejuvenating cream with amber acid,

information from happy users.

In the recent years, amber has been discovered by cosmetic’s manufacturers such

AS FORMONA, BIELENDA BUT ALSO STENDERS, IN ORDER TO SELL IT ON ALL MARKETS OF THE WORLD SUCCESSFULLY

www.balticjewellerynews.com

25

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

It is differently in case of Succinite’s cosmetics in which only natural amber is used. As the manufacturer


POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

AMABERMART – opens autumn seazon REPLENISH YOUR STOCK! To conclude the Fair, on Saturday you are welcome to participate in the art previews and side events to the 6th edition of the Mariacka Street Festival, brought to you in partnership with the International Amber Association, cultural institutions and the galleries, which Gdańsk’s iconic amber street is famous for. This time, the celebration’s theme is “Mariacka Full of Dreams”.

AMBERMART is open to the general public.

M

WE LOOK FORWARD TO HAVING YOU!

ore than 200 companies from Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, Germany and Italy have announced

their participation in AMBERMART, including

REPUBLIC OF POLAND

Baltic amber jewellery manufacturers and suppliers of col-

EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Warsaw Official language Polish Currency Złoty (PLN) Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 312 685 km2 Population (2014) 38 483 957 Latvia Government Parliamentary republic President Bronisław Komorowski Prime Minister Ewa Kopacz Lithuania GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 23 568 EUR Ethnic groups (2011) 93.52 % Polish Belarus 1.09 % Silesian POLAND Largest cities (2013) Warsaw 1 715 518 Krakov 760 700 Ukraine Lodz 718 960

oured gemstones. Last year’s edition of AMBERMART was attended by more than 3,000 visitors from 37 countries. The event’s product range covers amber jewellery, silver and gold jewellery with gemstones, designer and avantgarde jewellery, pearls, semi-finished amber products, Tiffany-style lamps, functional art and decorative items. AMBERMART is accompanied by the Art Gallery, the Designers’ Gallery, organised in partnership with the STFZ Goldsmithing Artists’ Association, along with an exhibition of reference fossil resin samples and imitations from Gabriela Gierłowska’s collection. It is also worthwhile taking part in the Understanding Amber Training Course, conducted by Vanessa Paterson from the Scottish Gemmological Association.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

26


GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

BRIGHT PROSPECTS for autumn Report by GEMWORLD MUNICH Press Office

to the traditional first-class range of rough and polished gemstones, it is the jewellery section that has grown the

The Gemworld Munich, which will take place

most, according to Keilmann. Whether designer jewellery,

from 30 October to 1 November, is once

exclusive unique items or an impressive range of silver jew-

again shaping up to be this year’s highlight

ellery, trade visitors can look forward to a large selection

of European autumn trade fairs. Organisers

and perfect conditions during their visit.

report an extremely positive response in terms of registrations received, as well as numerous

FIRST PORT OF CALL FOR UNIQUE GEMSTONES

new international exhibitors. Attention

The Gemworld Munich has developed from a virtual

will also shift to young talent with the new

unknown into one of the most important international

“Young Designers” section.

sales platforms for gemstones. This is evident not only by

The

impressive names such as Paul Wild, Henn or Sara Gems from New York, who have exhibited there for years, but also by its ability to attract small, yet high-quality distributors and mine owners from countries with natural treasures. second half of the year is almost upon

Whether from Brazil, Sri Lanka, Mozambique or the moun-

us, and with it looms one of the largest autumn trade fairs

tainous regions of Pakistan, India and Afghanistan: trade

on the horizon. In addition to established regular exhibi-

visitors at the Gemworld Munich have the opportunity to

tors, organisers have confirmed that this year will also fea-

meet the very people who bring us these precious stones,

ture many new companies in Munich. “By the end of April,

with their fascinating stories to tell about them. This is valu-

the amount of applications had already significantly sur-

able information when it comes to selling, as it significantly

passed figures from 2014”, rejoices Christoph Keilmann,

increases emotional attachment to the item. In addition to

Managing Director for Gemworld Munich. In addition

classic precious stones, buyers in Munich can also experi-

www.balticjewellerynews.com

28


GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

ence one of the largest opal collections in Europe as well as numerous amber dealers from the Baltic states.

A FOCUS ON YOUNG TALENT A new addition in Munich this year, visitors can enjoy the work of young designers. By placing the ‘New Design Forum’ and finalists of the ‘Young Designers’ Corner’ jewellery competition at the centre of Gemworld Munich, organisers will promote the importance of increasing young talent in this sector. The direct proximity to the exclusive Gemworld Pavilion is both a reward and an obligation: “The quality of work presented in previous years has been extremely high. With this new addition we want to give young designers the recognition that they deserve and encourage them to produce their best work in this high-class setting”, says Christoph Keilmann. Interested participants can still apply for the ‘Young Designers’ Corner’ until 30th August. Information on how to take part and registration for the ‘New Design Forum’ is available at www.gemworldmunich.com.

MEET PEOPLE, WHO SELL YOU GEMSTONES AT EXHIBITIONS.

Event organiser:

They have valuable (TARTPAS) stories to share, which you can share with your customers, it significantly increases emotional attachment to the item

Münchner Mineralientage Fachmesse GmbH Postfach 1361 Oberhaching besucherservice@munichshow.com www.munichshow.com

www.balticjewellerynews.com

29


GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

THE FEEL OF THE CITY Jewellery from Centres of this World Report by SCHMUCK MUSEUM Press Office

T

hey’re exquisite, exciting and exhilarating: jewellery creations from the metropolises of this world all have that certain something about them. In its

exhibition entitled “The Feel of the City – Jewellery from Centres of this World” from July 10 through November 1, 2015, Pforzheim’s Jewellery Museum will be showcasing pieces of jewellery dating from classical antiquity until well into the 20th century, all of which were created in big cities. “Pieces like these need the relevant environment and soOpera glasses. Gold, enamel, diamonds, agates Lucien FALIZE, Paris, about 1880, Wartski, London

cial occasions,” explains Cornelie Holzach, the Museum’s director and curator of the exhibition, which is part of

The presence of the initial ‘B’ indicates that this luxurious objet d’art is likely to have been destined for the wife of Prince de Béarn-Viana (1840–1893), one of Lucien Falize’s most eminent patrons. He married Cecile de Talleyrand-Périgord, Princesse de Chalais in 1873, and from that date commissioned for her many pieces of jewellery from Lucien Falize.

Pforzheim’s cultural festival entitled WerkSTADT/Impulse für die Innenstadt (Creative Input for the City Centre). Ladies of society didn’t wear diamonds before, and pearls not after five o’clock. Those who were invited for tea needed the appropriate jewellery. However, it was not only in London that women adorned their décolletés, arms

Augsburg to the Hamburg of the 1920s. Urban living gen-

or fingers with spectacular pieces, but also in Paris. Some

erates contemporary jewellery that also reflects the fash-

jewellery can only be created – and worn – in big cities,

ion and the sense of life characteristic of a specific era. A

which will be conveyed as the exhibition’s central message.

vibrant social life is also fertile breeding ground for a richly

This special exhibition showcases about 100 exhibits

varied jewellery culture.

from the museum’s own collection as well as from lenders

One example of such precious jewellery worn in an

such as the Asenbaum Collection and the Galerie bei der

urban environment is a bracelet that was delicately crafted

Albertina – Zetter in Vienna, Tilman Bohm in Paris, Han-

from solid gold in Pompeii in the 1st century CE – a unique

cocks in London, Siegelson and Tiffany & Co. Archives in

piece whose considerable material value and exquisite

New York as well as Wartski in London. It spotlights the

craftsmanship can easily be discerned. Competition in the

centres of bygone epochs, such as Pompeii, Rome, Byzan-

metropolises was fierce, because many skilled artisans set-

tium and Constantinople, as well as the big trading cities

tled in the cities, where the upper classes were able to

of early modern times, starting from Florence via Paris and

afford expensive jewellery.

Bracelet. Gold, carneolian, beryl, prase Roman, presumably from Syria or Egypt, 3rd century AD Tilman BOHM, Paris Photo Tilman Bohm, Paris

Bracelet. Iron, Berlin, early 19th century, Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim Photo Petra Jaschke

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30


GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

The Middle Ages saw the development of the free cities, where wealthy burghers accounted for the majority of the population, and thus created a solid demand for jewellery. Young artisans set out on their journeyman years, and serfs liberated themselves from their landlords under the “Urban air makes you free” law. An impressive example of jewellery created in the big trading cities in the Renaissance is a precious parrot pendant crafted presumptively in Augsburg. It is lavishly enhanced with gold, pearls, gemstones and enamel, and served as a piece of wedding jewellery. In the Baroque period, entire cities were designed with a focus on their palaces, such as Versailles, Schönbrunn in Vienna, Nymphenburg in Munich or Karlsruhe Palace – the centres of both politics and society, as well as of court life in the era of absolute monarchy. Jewellery was often the “admission ticket” that opened the doors to life at court. In the early 20th century, avant-garde Art Nouveau jewellery was being flaunted in variety shows and theaBelt buckle. Gold, jade, carnelian Design Lucien Hirtz BOUCHERON, Paris, about 1901 Private collection

tres. The exhibits from that era include, among others, a floral “Chrysanthemums” brooch, whose cast glass blos-

Maison Boucheron was undoubtedly among the foremost Parisian jewel salons of the late nineteenth century. Founder Frédéric Boucheron relied upon the expertise of his talented staff including Lucien Hirtz, who worked for Falize before joining Boucheron in 1893.

soms were created by the famous jewellery designer René Lalique, and another brooch from Paris that features a large and lustrous greenish-blue fish with spread fins and big purple eyes, as well as natural pearls dangling from its mouth and representing its prey. It was designed by

People back then liked to wear a lot and also very flam-

Georges Fouquet, who used a very large mother-of-pearl

boyant jewellery, and the sometimes spectacular creations

element in the shape of a fish’s body to craft this excep-

were the talk of the Parisian salons. Whether necklaces

tional corsage adornment entitled “Poisson«.

or brooches, bracelets or rings: jewellery wearers exhaust-

Rock crystal was very much en vogue in the Art Deco

ed the entire spectrum of available jewellery. Around

period, and combined, for example, with sapphires and

the middle of the 20 th century, the jewellery worn in the

diamonds set in platinum. Georges Fouquet’s son Jean

world’s metropolises was more unobtrusive again. Two clip

also created very exquisite and harmoniously designed

brooches made of gold and topaz by Cartier in London

brooches. One of them, crafted from rock crystal, gold and

are perfect examples of highly precious materials used to

high-quality tourmaline and pearls, is characterized by a

convey sleek elegance.

technoid formal idiom: the circles evoke associations with

One of the exhibition’s highlights is the gleaming

gearwheels, and the cultured pearls incorporated bear

orange-red, finely cut Tiffany brooch complemented with

witness to the emergence of the relevant industry. This is

small diamonds from the collection of Pforzheim’s Jewel-

the first piece of jewellery to display a deliberate contrast

lery Museum.

between matte and gleaming geometrical surfaces. Repre-

Whether timelessly elegant, elaborately crafted, opu-

senting a new attitude towards life, the “New Objectivity”

lent or understated, all the exhibits testify to a superlative

movement found its way into many artistic genres.

virtuosity and creativity that can only evolve in a pulsat-

Famous goldsmiths and jewellers worked in the big

ingly vibrant metropolis. Visitors can look forward to an

cities, travelled from Florence to London or Naples, were

exciting journey through the eras and important centres of

inspired by the metropolises’ atmosphere and shared their

this world that went down in jewellery history.

ideas and experiences. The jewellery they created includes

July 10 through November 1, 2015.

extravagantly shaped pendants crafted from gold, rubies For more Information please visit

and diamonds, for example, as well as belt buckles enhanced

› www.intergem.de

with shimmering moonstone, or highly symbolic rings.

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31


GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

The changing GERMAN AMBER MARKET Report by Knut RUDLOFF

North Sea to Rome. 2,000 years ago, weight for weight amber was considered as valuable

OVER THE PAST 20 YEARS, THE AMBER MARKET IN GERMANY HAS UNDERGONE A DRAMATIC STRUCTURAL CHANGE. ALMOST ALL OF THE RESPECTED WHOLESALERS HAVE DISAPPEARED AND HAVE NOT BEEN REPLACED BY NEW COMPANIES. At the same time, the amber

as gold, as it still is today. Of the course of time, many eras contributed their own outstanding jewellery and art treasures. As an example, I might mention here the legendary Amber Room, a gift made by the Prussian king Friedrich Wilhelm I to the Russian tsar in the eighteenth century. This priceless artefact is thought to have been lost in the turmoil of

market in Germany has grown very rapidly,

Knut RUDLOFF

the Second World War, and in the closing two

so in Germany today, for example, there are

Ambassador of “Ambertrip” in Germany

decades of the last century the Amber Room

dozens of specialist shops selling exclusively amber jewellery. With this presentation, we

would like to describe the evolution of the trade of the last few decades. We will then explain the situation as it stands today, and venture a glimpse into the future.

was reconstructed at colossal cost. Nowadays, it is admired every day by thousands of visitors

to the Catherine Palace near Saint Petersburg. In Germany, another age of prosperity for amber lasted from the beginning to the middle of the last century.

For many millennia, amber has traditionally been highly

The Kaliningrad company "State Amber Manufacturing")

prized as a commodity for making jewellery and handicrafts

(“Staatliche Bernstein-Manufaktur”) was active here from

in the region we now know as Germany. During the time of

1926 until 1945. With 1500 employees, it was the larg-

the Roman Empire, there was even a trade route from the

est manufacturer of amber products in the world. The

Typical sales display of the company “Nordschmuck”


thirty employees remained of the one thousand who had

sumer goods, such as cigarette-holders, bowls, boxes and

worked there before the Wall fell. Today, Ostseeschmuck

clocks.

sells its wares directly to the public through the largest retail exhibition of amber in Europe. Its earlier production

After the Second World War, “VEB Ostsee-Schmuck” was established in Ribnitz-Damgarten, in the former Ger-

and wholesale activities are now all but defunct.

man Democratic Republic. In the 1970s and 1980s, about

The famed corporate names of the wholesale industry,

1,000 employees worked here, producing amber jewellery.

Heitmann, Köllner, Kolletzky, Westfalica, Schreiter – for a

The worked mainly with Saxony amber from the brown

variety of reasons they have all ceased purely wholesale

coal open cast mine in Bitterfeld. But these jewellery items

trading in amber. In Germany today, apart from a few

were not intended for the domestic, most were exported

smaller traders at the regional level, there are only very

to West Germany and Denmark for foreign currency.

few large traders working on a broader scale.

At that time, there were effectively only eight whole-

One of these, however, is Gunther Herrling. Still today,

sale traders and import companies on the amber market in

Gunther Herrling markets exceptionally high quality, items

the entire Federal Republic of Germany, with a population

from its exclusive amber collection. The company has a

of over 60 million. Since all these wholesalers worked with

very large collection of amber jewellery, which is regularly

the same pricing margin, there was almost no price com-

updated to include the latest fashion trends.

petition and to all intents and purposes the market was

But if the amber market in Germany today has never

an oligopoly. The situation changed dramatically after the

been larger, what exactly was the structural change that

political climate “thawed” and the “Iron Curtain” fell. In

robbed the wholesalers of their very secure existence?

just a few years it became possible to travel freely to and

The answer is very simple: the trade fairs. “Amberif” and

from the former Eastern bloc countries, and in the new age

“Ambermart” in Gdansk, “Ambertrip” in Vilnius! Today,

of commercial freedom that arose from the ashes of com-

there is nothing easier for a German retailer to visit these

munism, hundreds of amber working companies sprang

fairs and browse the endless offerings from literally hun-

up. As a result, the supply of amber jewellery increased,

dreds of producers to select the jewellery his or her cus-

spread and became more diverse and more interesting.

tomers will buy.

The former state-owned enterprise “VEB Ostsee-

Whether it be inexpensive mass-produced jewellery

Schmuck” was privatised, and by the mid-1990s only

for seaside gift shops or stunning, unique artefacts for

FEHMARN

USEDOM

Thanks to these speciality shops,

SYLT

AMBER IS AGAIN A BOOMING COMMODITY IN GERMANY, because

here amber is introduced to the market in all its variety and beauty

Samples from the collection “My Island”

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33

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

company produced not only jewellery, but also many con-


GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

upmarket galleries, German traders will find everything

Gunther Herrling is now the only enterprise in Germany

they need in Gdansk or Vilnius.

that owns its own amber polishing plant, and it can offer

The sheer size and range of the offerings at these fairs

fast, custom service to the specialist retail trade.

also prompted the rapid rise of , speciality shops opening in

The company “Nordschmuck”, entered the market rel-

Germany. Thanks to these speciality shops, amber is again

atively recently. It has been active in the wholesale trade

a booming commodity in Germany, because here amber is

in Germany for about 15 years. The secret of its business

introduced to the market in all its variety and beauty.

success lies in a sophisticated concept of decoration and

Moreover, the supply of amber jewellery has been

logistics. In general, all of its products are conceived, cre-

increasing online, both in individual stores and on such

ated and sold together with a decoration concept that is

websites as eBay or Amazon. This is where tens of thou-

designed to appeal to the taste of German consumers. Pro-

sands of the popular necklaces and chains for babies and

prietary brands, such as the collection “Meine Insel®” (“My

dogs find their buyers.

Island”), which offer silver and amber pendants portraying

So what can a wholesaler offer in Germany today?

the contours of all the German vacation islands, or “Ben-

The market has indeed become very crowded. There a

stein trifft Mooreiche®” (“Amber meets Black Oak”) are

few wholesalers in the German amber jewellery market

an important success factor. Currently, nearly 100 sales dis-

who have earned a regular customer base by offering

plays and baskets on various topics are offered. Every item is

their products at the regional level. I am going to briefly

already fully costed and priced so the retailer is guaranteed

describe two companies that have gained importance on a

a substantial profit margin without having to worry about

larger scale due to their unique offerings.

the pricing structure of his competitor in the next town.

One of these is Gunther Herrling, the company I men-

Moreover, every product has an EAN code, so the goods

tioned earlier. Gunther Herrling has been operating in the

can be accounted for using an electronic cash register. The

market successfully since 1957. The company’s secret lies

seller does not need a pricey warehouse separate from the

in the quality of the items it offers for sale. Besides its

sales display, because he/she can quickly and easily order all

own workshops in Germany, it has cultivated close, long-

products using a number code. Almost all goods that are

standing relations with leading manufacturers in Poland

ordered by noon are dispatched from the warehouse on the

and Lithuania. Besides producing for their own custom-

same day and they reach the customer the following day.

ers, these foreign contacts supply Gunther Herrling with a

So here too, in “Nordschmuck” we have a company that is thriving at a national level in the amber wholesale trade. The customers of “Nordschmuck GmbH” would not gain anything by going to Poland or Lithuania to buy their amber, because these customers are mostly the larger gift shops near the North Sea and the Baltic Sea, for which amber only represents a small fraction of their product lines. However, interesting sales figures are still generated in these shops from the Nordschmuck product line thanks to the high turnover rate of the sophisticated logistics system. Currently, over 25 manufacturers in Poland and 15 in Lithuania are the key suppliers to “Nordschmuck”, thus ensuring an extremely wide range of goods, which are currently offered in more than 300 stores throughout Germany. In conclusion, it can be reasonably argued that the

Samples from the collection “Amber meets Black Oak”

“classic” wholesale trade in amber has almost disappeared in Germany. For the retailer s the customer of a wholesaler,

steady stream of jewellery items of exceptional design and

above average quality combined with appropriate service

workmanship.

are and will henceforth alway be just as important as a

The items are sold to jewellers who have realised the

design that corresponds to the tastes of the German final

financial possibilities of amber jewellery and are keen to

consumer and a well-developed, convincing presentation

include them in their product lines. At the same time,

and logistical concept.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

34


INTERGEM 2015 presents rarities and know-how

The Home of Gemstones

Report by INTERGEM Press Office

I

of modern techniques and the collaboration with local companies can lead to astonishing results like the auto-

dar-Oberstein – The INTERGEM 2015 is at the ready.

matic production of 3–D forms made of stone in combina-

Preparations for the most important event in the gem-

tion with electroplating. Furthermore students of the Idar-

stone industry are in full throttle. In the face of increas-

Oberstein class of gold- and silversmiths and gemstone

ing global competition and diminishing supply of rough

setters present their creations and will also demonstrate

stones the importance of the industry’s signature fair is un-

the art of enamelling.

mistakable. The incomparable international centre of the

Last but not least the supporting programme will once

gemstone industry is located in Idar-Oberstein – with the

again be top of the notch: On Friday 02. October the foyer

INTERGEM as its flagship. “You will probably never find

in the halls will turn into a vine tasting lounge presented

this concentration of know how in craftsmanship, trade,

by the vineyard “Korell Johanneshof” from Bad Kreuz­‑

research and all the other services concerning fine gem-

nach – and on Saturday evening the INTERGEM calls to the

stones anywhere else in the world”, says Kai-Uwe Hille the

fair party at the PH1 club at Park Hotel Idar-Oberstein.

managing director of INTERGEM. “The local industry is facFor more Information please visit

ing major challenges due to the inclining competition for

› www.intergem.de

the last resources. Many rarities can solely be found here in Idar-Oberstein.” The long grown relationships of the lapidaries to miners and traders in the countries of origin

FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY

and rough stone treasures accumulated over decades are the basis of the INTERGEM’s one-of-a-kind variety which is

EU, NATO Capital Berlin Official language German Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 357 021 km2 Population (2014) 80 716 000 Government Federal parliamentary constitutional republic President Joachim Gauck Chancellor Angela Merkel GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 42 169.05 EUR Ethnic groups 91.5 % German 8.5 % others Czech Largest cities Republic Berlin 3 426 354 GERMANY Hamburg 1 739 117 Bavaria 1 260 391

presented once a year at the beginning of October. Visitors are sure to not only find an unmatched range of unique gems, pearls, gemstone jewellery and a broad range of technical services but to experience know how first hand. Institutions and colleges present their expertise at the newly created “Competence Centre”. The German Gemmological Association will demonstrate their gemmological work focussing on the microscopic possibilities for the determination of origin of rubies, sapphires and emeralds as well as microscopic characteristics for the distinction of natural and synthetic stones. Additionally graduates of the field “Gemstones and jewellery” of the Trier University of applied sciences will present various projects – showing how the combination

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35

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Coloured Gemstones by Groh + Ripp (Photocredit: Hannes Magerstaedt)

Diamond Ring by Hans D. KRIEGER


Furthest to the left – Emeritus, Svend Visby FUNDER from the Geological Museum in Copenhage; to the left of the stone – Associate Professor and Curator, Lars VILHELMSEN from Natural History Museum of Denmark; to the right of the stone, House of Amber’s Managing Director, Pia FØNS SØRENSEN; furthest to the right: House of Amber’s Co-Owner and Group CEO, Lars BLADT


breaking amber piece in

COPENHAGEN

Report by HOUSE OF AMBER Press Office

H

ouse of Amber and Copenhagen Amber Museum has just been enlisted in Guinness World Records with the largest piece of amber in the

world.

The amber piece was found by miners in Indonesia

who were digging tunnels through the landscape. When the miners first found this piece of amber, it weighed more than 176 pounds (80 kg). The amber piece on the picture above is the polished stone, after the piece was cleaned of soil etc. Subsequently, the piece was tested and verified as pure amber by Österreichische Gemmologische Gesellschaft. The amber weighs 104.72 pounds (47.5 kg) and measures 57.5 x 62 x 37 cm. The amber piece was found in the Dharmasraya region in West Sumatra in 2014 and is around 15–25 million years old. An interesting fact is that this amber type was discovered only a few years ago. Amber from Sumatra is characteristically non-transparent and brownish, but radiates a blue colour tone when exposed to UV-light or sunlight. The amber piece can be enjoyed and explored at the Copenhagen Amber Museum. Address: Kongens Nytorv 2, by Nyhavn. ”At House of Amber we are delighted to get our hands on such a marvellous piece of amber and further proud of getting the amber piece enlisted in Guinness World Records. It is a real extraordinary find which we can now exhibit in our unique amber museum at Kongens Nytorv.” says Pia Føns, Managing Director at House of Amber.

47.5 kg www.balticjewellerynews.com

37

DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT

WORLD'S RECORD


DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Amber necklace by Algirdas MIKUTIS

DANISH AMBERMARKET The

D

By Erik JOHANSEN

enmark is a small country, but it

the amber towards the shore. Amber is found

has a coastal line of more than

mainly on high tide and by falling water. Then

7.000 kilometers length. It is situ-

you need to be there before all other search-

ated between the Baltic Sea and the North

ers, early in the morning or even at night with

Sea. A lot of broad beaches are found along

strong lamps to detect the amber pieces.

the shore line. For more than 1000 years the

THE AMBER TRADE IN DENMARK.

people in Denmark have collected amber at these beaches and have used it for amulets

Historically (from 1950 and earlier) there

and jewellery. Foreign trade with amber have

have been amber grinders in a lot of places close to the beaches in the western part of

happened during the centuries, where amber jewellery have been exported. Also today amber can be

Denmark, in Jylland at the North Sea, maybee up to 50

found. Unfortunally not in very big quantities, but around

places. They have collected amber themselves or have

1.000 kilo is found every year at seaside. No mining is done

bought amber from other local people, who have found

in Denmark.

it. They have sold the finished products from their own

When you visit the beaches you will often see a lot

workshops or have sold it to buyers, who later sold for

of people trying to find amber on the places where they

goldsmiths and other shops in the bigger cities as Copen-

see stones accumulate. But you will not find amber there,

hagen, Odense, Aarhus and so on.

because amber is that light so it is normally found between

Currently and as it been the last 20 years, the sale of

parts of plants, twigs and seaweed.

amber articles is now concentrated in a number of amber

It is a science itself to find the amber pieces. The wind is

shops and for a smaller part, in souvenier shops. Almost all

extremely important. It has to start blowing hard from the

articles are imported. A few shops take an active part in

sea, maybe for more days. This will lift the amber off the

designing jewellery and gets their own designs produced.

seabed, but it does not come in. If then the wind changes

The number of amber grinders who produce all their prod-

direction and starts blowing from land towards the sea,

ucts themselves are almost non excisting. Even the number

this will change the current below the surface and bring

of amber grinders are extremely reduced, it is less than 10

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38


imported products.

AMBER PRICES. The rising prices for bigger pieces of amber have drawn big interest in Denmark. Television,

The places where amber is sold today follows the same

radio and newspapers have told about the sometimes sen-

idea as in old days. Most sellers are in Jylland (the western

sational prices obtained and that has caused a rising inter-

part of Denmark) close to the big holiday resorts as Ribe,

est of amber. People have looked through their cupboards

Blaavand, Henne, Ringkøbing and Skagen. Some smaller

and drawers to find old hidden pieces of amber and many

places, in the northern part of Jylland, have also special-

comes to sell amber to the shops. The price of smaller

ized amber shops. The biggest supplier along the west

pieces have not changed a lot, so it is still possible to get

coast is ”Den lille Ravbutik” who has 5 shops, with sizes

jewellery with amber at very reasonable prices.

up to almost 200 m2 in the places where a lot of tourists comes. This company also have own production facilities. Then especially in Copenhagen there are a number of smaller, medium and very big amber shops. Also other big-

AMBER WHOLESALE. Only 2 or 3 specific amber wholesale companies are on the danish market. These companies specialice in finished products. Some auction companies are involved in selling raw amber.

ger cities have amber shops and also a lot of gold- and silversmiths have some amber jewellery. AMBER DESIGN. A lot of work is done to make amber jewellery of all types modern in design and attractive for young customers, so a major group of customers are now younger people. It is tried really to make things not heavy and in some cases with amber in different colours in the same piece of jewellery. AMBER CUSTOMERS. A lot of jewellery is sold for german tourists on vacation in Denmark. The chinese customers also plays a major role in Denmark as well as in other countries. But tourists from all over the world comes to Denmark and enjoys bringing amber jewellery home. Of course also the market for danish people has a big size. NEW PRODUCT! A new thing is introduced a lot of places along the danish west coast: Guided tours, how and where to find amber. Many tourists likes to get lots of fresh air and they find it very attractive to find amber by themselves.

KINGDOM OF DENMARK EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Copenhagen Official language Danish Currency Danish krone (DKK), 1 EUR – 7.4605 DKK Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area 357 021 km2 Population (2015) 5 668 743 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy Monarch Margrethe II Prime Minister Lars Løkke Rasmussen Sweden GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 40 869.70 EUR Ethnic groups 87 % Scandinavians 13 % others Largest cities Copenhagen 1 181 239 DENMARK Aarhus 242 914 Odense 166 305

DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT

today, and most are selling both their own products and


FROM the SWAN to MAGIC STAR Efva ATTLING


Efva

A reminder to get out of a bad relationship or to change your life somehow. Jewellery is very personal, you wear it every day and it shows who you are. What is your favourite piece of jewellery that you made? What message does it send?

made her first piece of jewelry

when she was eleven years old. It was a Swan – a silver

I´ve used Latin in my expressions like Amor Fati – the

bracelet. At the age of sixteen she was a pupil of one of

love for our destiny. For me that means, we have been

Sweden’s greatest silversmiths, Bengt Liljedahl. EFVA AT-

given this life, lets make the best out of it.

TLING, has lived a multitude of incredible lives before re-

I am proud of my collection ”Take No Shit”. I made

turning to her original passion of jewelry making. Quite

it in collaboration with BRIS. A Swedish foundation that

the star in her native Stockholm, Efva is recognized for her

helps children that are abused. I´ve raised nearly 1 million

work as a model, her music, and her magazine industry

Swedish crowns with that piece of jewellery, it´s important

stint. Eileen Ford spotted Efva at the age of seventeen and

for me to help.

a twelve-year modeling career began, working in Paris, London, Milan and New York. Having music in her family and in her heart Efva next started a band in 1981 called the X Models. The band had a hit ballad ”Two of us” in the 1980’s that Efva composed. Through the years she also designed clothes for both Levi’s and H&M, been a TV host and a fashion editor. In 1996 she decided to go back to were she once started; designing jewellery, working with silver, gold and precious stones. Efva Attling opened her own workshop in February 1999 in the southern part of central Stockholm. This was the first jewelry shop that she owned and designed. Today Efva Attling is the leading jewellery designer in Sweden: the company has seven Efva Attling stores (one in NYC’s Meatpacking District), 103 retailers in Sweden and 81 across the rest of the globe. What is unique about Efva is she often puts expresFrom collection “Take No Shit”

sions in her designs. She calls it: ”Beauty with a Thought”. Beyond her beautiful and thoughtful designs, Efva is dedicated to building awareness for issues that are close to her heart through her jewelry and has raised millions of

Where do you get your inspiration for your jew-

dollars from pieces created over the years. In Lookbooks of your jewellery, one can find a lot

ellery?

of quotes and your own thoughts. Every single piece

From life, travel and from talking to people. I´m very

of jewellery seems to have a meaning behind it. Do

interested in the human being.

you think that jewellery should send messages?

Did any of jewellers inspire you? Could you name your own favourite jeweller?

I think jewelry most of the time have an emotional aspect like a gift from someone you care about or who

Vivianna Torun Bülow Hübe was a Swedish designer

cares about you. I used to be a singer/songwriter and I still

for Georg Jensen and she was so great in many ways. I met

want to move people with words. I can write a message on

her before she passed away and she really gave me some

a piece of jewellery to boost yourself.

courage when I started as a jewellery designer.

”I am intrigued by all our differences and I

BELIEVE WHAT TIES US ALL TOGETHER IS HUMOUR, MUSIC AND LOVE. I call my designs Beauty with a thought.” www.balticjewellerynews.com

41

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Interview by Odilija GUNTORIŪTĖ


SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

From collection “Lifeline”

“I WANT TO BOOST PEOPLE WITH MY DESIGN and let the jewelry be conversation pieces”

You received a medal from the Royal Swedish Patriotic Society in April 2011, do awards change something for artists? What did it mean to get this award to you? Not more than that your work is appreciated. It was a nice evening and it was a little fun when Prins Carl Philip had some trouble pinning the medal on my dress. Otherwise it´s business as usual. You have a new collection called Viking. Why for this collection did you choose to come back to your roots: is it a new fashion in Sweden? I always wanted to do the Viking collection. It´s really inspired by how they made jewellery ages ago. Simple, Miss Butterfly Heaven & Stars Collier

heavy with a twist. But of course, I am a fashionista so I also follow trends. I love fashion!

KINGDOM OF SWEDEN

You sang in a band “X-Models”. Why did you switch from the music art form to jewellery?

EU, Hallmarking Convention Capital Stockholm Official language Swedish Currency Swedish krona (SEK); 1 EUR – 9.16 SEK Time zone CET (UTC+1) CEST (UTC+2) Summer (DST) Area – 449 964 km2 Population (2015) 9 775 572 Government Constitutional monarchy, Unitary parliamentary representative democracy Monarch King Carl XVI Gustaf SWEDEN Prime Minister Stefan Lofven GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 42 559.76 EUR Ethnic groups 89,3 % Swedish, 3 % Finn & Sami (Lapp)   Largest cities Helsinki 626 305, Espoo 267 906, Tampere Denmark

I started to train as a silver & goldsmith when I was 17. But then I was discovered as a model and modelled for 12 years. Then I was in the music business and I was also designing clothes for H&M. It took me 27 years to come back to where I once started. I think I needed to live my full life of experiences to make the jewellery I design today. Does music inspire you to create jewellery? Are there any jewellery pieces that were inspired by your own songs? Yes, I have a collection called Miss Butterfly which was my first song I wrote. I also have ”Two of Us” like my old hitsong from the 80´s. Music is very important in my life.

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42


FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT

KORU5

A TRIP TO International jewellery triennial, Imatra, Finland

W

By Antonio ALTARRIBA

hat does the word KORU means, it simply means jewellery in Finnish language and it is

THE CURATION OF THE EXHIBITION OF KORU 5

a tradition that the KORU triennial consists

of workshops, a seminar and an international exhibition,

The exhibition of the KORU5 displays the work of 51

sometimes there has been also paral.lel exhibitions. This

artists coming from 21 countries. The show was opened

format has always been alike to all KORU events, which

in Imatra Art Museum on Friday 7th of August and it will

started in 1997, the first editions named Alchemy, the

remain open until 12.9.2015, then it will travel to Vaasa Art

stone of wisdom and Midsummer workshops were mod-

Hall 3.10.–29.11.2015 and finally the show will end next

est. The workshops vary according to the themes to be

year at Kuopio art museum 10.6.–10.9.2016. A full colour

treated, some are material based and others rather con-

catalogue has been printed. This is the first triennial that

ceptual. The seminar contents talks from art theorists and

the exhibition is itinerant, it is a challenge for the organ-

artists presentations. The event has been always interna-

izers, because they have to pack all the pieces, exhibition

tional, speakers and artists coming from several countries.

tables etc. but it is an excellent opportunity for the promo-

All these together makes a forum for new approaches and

tion of international contemporary jewellery around Fin-

views on contemporary jewellery. Connections and con-

land especially in this artistic context.

necting people could be one purpose of the event and a

This exhibition is the selection of an open call to jewel-

great opportunity for museum visitors to make a trip to the

lers. The organizers received 363 proposals, and the jury

fantastic world of contemporary jewellery.

was composed by Helena Lehtinen, jeweller artist, Jyrki

The organizer of this triennial is The Finnish Jewellery

Siukonen, Doctor in Fine Arts and Katarina Siltavuori, Mas-

Art Association (www.korutaideyhdistys.fi) cooperating

ter in Art History. The jury studied carefully proposals and

among others with the art museum and with Saimaa Uni-

and made the selection of participants for the exhibition.

versity of Applied Sciences.

An open call is always a big risk to take for the organizer,

The association was founded in 2005 to promote jew-

because you may not receive enough entries, but KORU

ellery and to provide Finnish jewellers a sense of belonging

event is already old enough, the amount of applications

to a greater community.

was huge.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

44


FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT Photos by Tarja Tuupanen

Connections and connecting people could be one purpose of the event and a great opportunity for museum visitors TO MAKE A TRIP TO THE FANTASTIC WORLD

CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY

OF

THE WORKSHOPS OF KORU 5

Pontoppidan, professor and jewel artist, Jyrki Siukonen, Ph

There were three workshops from Monday to Thurs-

and sculptor, Hannah Joris, Ph and jewell artist, Edgar Mosa,

day and the leaders were Terhi Tolvanen, (Fi/Fra), Land-

jewell artist and designer, Ulla Ahola, jewel artist, Shu-Lin

scapes in stone. A landscape can be cultural, architec-

Wu, jewel artist, Daniela Hedman, jewell artist.

tural and urban… imaginary, musical or poetic…. The

I quote now some sentences from the lectures. Edgar

workshop was a walk together in rocky landscapes while

Mosa who lives and works in New York issue was about

making imaginary landscapes. Working with stone, dis-

”Commercial jewellery and art jewellery” every jeweller

cussing about stone and getting surprised about stone!

should think how to make its living. Hannah Joris talked

Edgar Mosa (Por/ USA) Creative Patriotisms. Utilizing

about doctorates and artists. Should an artist concentrate

the conventions of the bench and metalwork, this work-

in exploring and making art or in making doctoral thesis.

shop proposed to gather an international group of mak-

Shu-Lin Wu presented the contemporary spectrum of jew-

ers and thinkers out of their home and studio to work,

ellery in Taiwan and she talked about the lack of contem-

think, and nurture a hands-on conversation of “why we

porary jewellery galleries in her country and all the efforts

are how we are and do how we do”. Monika Brugger

the young generation is making to open new spaces for it.

(FR) Heimat. Nomads, travellers, backpackers, globetrot-

All the lecturers were interesting and did not left anybody

ters, vagabonds, immigrant, exile, expatriate, being away

cool.

from home, being elsewhere. Many of us have changed

In the seminar premises there were several OFF exhibi-

countries for pleasure, curiosity, desire for change, rarely

tions from students and different groups, so during the

by economic or political necessity. Many of us reconstruct

lunch time or coffee breaks the seminar participants could

what is called ”Heimat” in German, build, find or invent

pop in.

new or other roots. Jewellery connects homelands.

THE EXHIBITION THE SEMINAR

The exhibition is large and well displayed. The Baltic

The seminar of KORU 5 on Friday and Saturday present-

Jewellery News readers will appreciate it in the images

ed several talks and artist presentations among them Karen

accompanied, but the best is to see it at its site.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

45


FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT

THE ART of HANDMAKING

T

By TAMMI JEWELLERY Press Office

ammi brand stands for fine quality natural materials, the beauty of handmaking and comtemporary but classic Scandinavian design. The art and tal-

Tammi, the oak tree, lives in time, but has deep roots in

ent of handmaking is the most precious thing for us when

traditional handmaking methods and professional skills.

implementing the design of luxurious pieces of jewellery.

Every piece of jewellery has a mark of a person behind its

Well maintained they also last from one generation to the

creation and it has been made with strong interest in detail

next. All Tammi jewels are little pieces of art designed and

and fine quality finishing.

created by hand.

Tammi is a beautifully handcrafted classic. The Baltic

Tammi Jewellery has been in the markets for over

Jewellery News is very happy that Tammi brand has agreed

60 years , founded by a goldsmith Alpo Tammi in 1954.

to share some of its jewellery making secrets.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

46


FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT DESIGN

THE DETAIL

Most of the Tammi Jewellery designs have been

The talent of goldsmiths shows in the details.

inspired by the beauty of the Finnish arctic nature since

Creating, assembling, polishing and shaping with care

the early dates of the brand. Yet Orkidea, the brands high-

the goldsmith brings out the beauty in every piece. Every

light collection for the 60 th Anniversary, designed by Mar-

little detail counts. Tammi brand stands for the traditional methods of

jut Kemppi, is an outstanding example of the distinctive

handmaking where the details come from a persons

design of Tammi Jewellery.

hands, not computers.

Good design evolves along the many phases of the making process when finally it meets all the requirements,

Details bring out the beauty and separate the extraor-

also as a piece of art. Functionality, beauty, distinctive and

dinary from ordinary. Tammi compliments its designs by

unimitable design are regarded as standard for Tammi

skilled detailing and each jewel is individually finished and

Jewellery. The great history of jewellry making and the

perfected by hand. Uniqueness of Tammi Jewellery lie in

many amazing vintage pieces of Tammi also give a guide-

handmade details. Each jewel has its own characteristics

line to follow in the future.

and is thus unique.

CREATION

PRECIOUS MATERIALS

The art takes shape in constructing the little red wax

A good design is as important as high quality in mate-

tree. Very skilled hands are needed to set the base for

rials and in production. Tammi Jewellery embodies both

the next phase of jewellerymaking, the casting. All little

these things. Tammi makes fine, unique jewellery from

detailed shapes of wax are attached to a stem which even-

high quality recycled gold and finest quality Sterling silver

tually looks like a peculiar tree. How the end-product will

with traditional handmaking methods.

look depends on the care and precision put in to creating

The precious pearls of the precious metals are like small seeds from which the ready jewellery is grown. Choosing

the little shapes and attaching them on the tree.

the best seeds gives the jewellery solid base to last from

All Tammi jewellery are shaped by hand, and created

one generation to the next.

with heart.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

47


FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT

THE BEAUTY OF HANDMAKING Shaped by hand, created with heart is the beauty of handmaking. The 60th anniversary highlight is the collection of the Orkidea, which represents the talent and beauty from the concept to design, creation, and all the way to a ready and unique piece of Jewellery. Each piece is like an artwork

TAMMI has been

itself even in the middle of the process.

highly valued nationally and internationally with the acknowledgements like THE

It is beautiful to see how the creations evolve in hands. Tammi cherishes the artistic side of the making instead of

GOLDSMITH OF THE YEAR IN FINLAND FOR ALPO TAMMI. The SKILLFUL DESIGNERS have always been the CORE COMPETENCE

following the latest inventions of computerised productions.

of the brandsince the beginning.

For more information:

› miia.saarikko@tammenkoru.fi; www.tammijewellery.com

REPUBLIC OF FINLAND EU, Hallmarking Convention Capital Helsinki Official language(s) Finnish, Swedish Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 338 424 km2 Population (2015) 5 483 533 Government Parliamentary republic President Sauli Niinisto Prime minister Juha Sipilä GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 36 800 EUR Ethnic groups 93.4 % Finn 6.6 % others Largest cities Helsinki 626 305 Espoo 267 906 Tampere 223 238

CASTING Tammi is a forerunner in making jewellery by casting plaster. In Tammi studio the talent required for this challenging phase of jewellery-making is highly appreciated. Great things are never achieved the easy way. Casting is all about the art of making the beautiful small trees of silver and gold like in the picture. Little but valuable shapes that in capable hands become a beautiful artefact. The white precious metal trees hold together small pieces of jewellery to be cut out from the tree for the next steps of the journey in traditional handmaking.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

48

FINLAND

Estonia


DESIGN: WWW.FILET.NO • FORSIDEFOTO: EMIL JANGÅRD RASMUSSEN OG BOEINSPIRE COPYRIGHT

Norwegian Jewellery and Watch Trade Fair 27th – 30th of August 2015 at Lillestrøm, Norway Welcome to the fourth edition of the only international trade fair in Norway

Telephone: +47 22 44 16 20 / +47 978 71 346 | www.ngumesse.no info@gull-og-ur-messe.no | www.facebook.com/gullogurmesse | #norskgullogurmesse


RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Amber. THE SECOND BIRTH Report by KALININGRAD AMBER COMBINE Audio- and video-installations, insects under a microscope in a rigid resin, multimedia art objects, multilayer pictures, strange installations come as though from the future or another planet. And all of this is in various shades of yellow and orange. It is hard to believe that this entire phantasmagoria was born around such a well-known and usual stone. New ideas and technologies help to overcome the stagnation in amber industry.

The

second

in the technical field but in Art and design as well. “We

birth” was exhibited in Moscow with the assistance of Am-

are discovering amber again. Similarly, earlier we did not

ber Factory; it became a significant cultural event because

know much about graphene, which was known because

of its futuristic features. Young Moscow artists, design-

of graphite that was used to make stabs for pencils. Today,

ers, sculptors and photographers, who found inspiration

after having studied its features better, we have discovered

in amber, its history and impressive characteristics, were

that it is superconductive, it is making a technological rev-

involved in the creation of the exhibition. Thanks to them,

olution,” states a designer. According to him, similar pro-

amber was first exposed in a new capacity as an inde-

cesses start in the knowledge of the properties of amber.

pendent art object. The basis of the exhibition includes the

The most important thing is to start the searches and to

photographs about the history of amber, audio-visual in-

put forward new ideas. The fact that scientists and art-

stallations due to which amber became a musical setting,

ists are considering new possibilities of amber already sug-

multimedia installation, which helped to find themselves

gests that there are possible new discoveries in the nearest

inside amber, art object “amber molecule”, multilayer pic-

future. The master is convinced that the question itself is a

tures, video installations, etc. On the first day of the exhibi-

half of the solution. And what is about the conductivity of

tion, it was visited by approximately 20 000 people.

Amber? Is it possible to extract sound from it? How does

exhibition

“Amber.

The

Today, the leading Russian designers are thinking

it conduct electromagnetic waves? Let’s try! According

about new features of amber. “Thanks to its unique fea-

to Karpov, a lot of legends and myths are created about

tures, it may have hundreds of roles in the age of high tech-

amber. There are stories about the tears of nymphs, frag-

nologies,” think the representatives of Russian school of

ments of celestial chariots. In ancient Russian stories there

design. According to them, a detailed study of the features

is a “stone Alatyr” that burns. All of this may be used in

of the material is capable to make an “explosion” not only

creation of new perception of amber, which can become

www.balticjewellerynews.com

50


in Russia and countries of the Baltic region. According to

a completely new material with the help of new technolo-

amber products. Basically, they cause a negative associa-

gies. “Let’s say it is possible to put myths about this stone

tion of young generation related to soviet times and past

recorded by actors into a piece of fossilized resin. A parent

fashion. According to the marketers, today the audience

takes such piece of amber, presses a barely visible button

of potential consumers of amber could be larger by a few

and put into their child’s bed who will consider the stone

tens of millions of people; however, they pass by amber

as a source of information. It is possible to make such an

products as these do not match preferences of their taste.

educational audio-book,” fantasizes a designer.

Those changes and processes which are happening today

the results, basic consumers of amber are women aged 45–70. Young generation, aged 18–35, is not interested in

The most important thing is that phantasies of artistic

in Russian amber industry are intended to return a forgot-

people find support of the management of Russian amber

ten glory to amber at the global level. One of them is the

industry. The director of the factory Mikhail Zatsepin gives

involvement of new forces and search of new non-tradi-

great importance to artistic experiments with the produc-

tional approaches to working with amber.

tion of his company. He stated that what was made by

Kaliningrad amber factory is a global monopoly in

Russian designers in the exhibition “has never come to

extraction of amber and manages one of the largest mines

anyone’s mind. We may see that amber was first adapted

of amber in the world, and one of the leaders of global

to the language of art of exhibition spaces; it moves from the antique and souvenir shops to fashionable art galleries and becomes a part of contemporary art,” he said. Thus, the largest companies of amber extraction show their interest in the change of amber image not only in Russia but in the whole world as well. And the perception of “solar stone” should have been changed long time ago. Industry experts point out that there is a crisis of ideas in the global market of amber. There have not been any creative ideas and fresh solutions of the designers for a long time. The market of amber processing formed long An interactive amber room was established in Moscow. The installation allows enjoying the most beautiful properties of refraction of light which comes out of amber and produces the processes occurring in the conversion of resin into amber

ago, and the range of products offered to a customer has narrowed. No matter where you are, i.e. in Kaliningrad, Gdansk, Vilnius or Beijing, we may find more or less similar products made with different skill levels of the author. Traditional jewelry, paintings and panels, boxes, vases and

amber industry has become a part of one of the largest

various souvenir decorative objects are offered most usu-

state corporations “Rostex”. Rostex is a Russian corpora-

ally. Of course, there are great works, true masterpieces,

tion established in 2007 in order to promote the develop-

made by masters from different countries with the use of

ment, production and export of high-tech industrial prod-

their own unique technology and design; however, these

ucts. It comprises more than 700 organizations including

products do not actually get in an open market and are

so famous brands as AVTOVAZ, KAMAZ, Russian Helicop-

immediately taken into private collections. This situation

ters, etc. The new owner was set up a global task – to

has led to the fact that the market of amber consumers has

lead Amber factory to a new technological and industrial

significantly narrowed during the recent years. New mate-

level to expand its presents on Russian and global mar-

rials and new forms are more attractive for the generation

kets. A full technical audit of the company was complet-

of consumers. And once, amber used to be considered

ed recently, on the basis of the results of which there is

as one of the most fashionable and marketable materials

currently being made a programme for the development

in Europe. Over the previous six months, Russian special-

of the company. Estimated amount of investments make

ists performed a research of Russian and European amber

a few tens of millions of Euro. The company is going to

market including focus-groups with the consumers of vari-

increase its profitability from 5 % to 15 % and gradually

ous age as well as the analysis of offered amber products

increase production to 500 tons of amber per year. Also,

www.balticjewellerynews.com

51

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

 Amber is becoming an object of contemporary art through the dialogues between the leaders of Russian amber industry and young designers


RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

it is planned to install innovations in production aimed at

and events involving young people. One of such events

preserving the ecology of the region. Recently, Russia has

took place in May this year.

dramatically changed attitude towards amber. If earlier in

The processes happening in Russia which supplies the

the post-soviet era the focus was on the supply of global

stone around the world will, of course, influence Euro-

markets with raw material, so today Russia pretends to

pean industry of amber too. The resources of amber are

remain the largest centre of amber extraction, become a

concentrated in Kaliningrad Region, but “solar stone” is

locomotive of the global industry of amber and give this

used as symbol in a number of countries of the Baltic Sea

material a totally new relevant perception.

region. Cooperation and realization of joint projects aimed

One of the directions of the activity which is being

to the development of amber craftsmanship, relevance of

developed by Amber factory is cooperation with young

the material in accordance with current tendencies in the

designers. This kind of cooperation enables young Rus-

sphere of design are a direction in the result of which all

sian artists, designers and scientists to communicate

participants will win. Kaliningrad Amber Factory is interest-

directly with the processors of amber, visit jewelry shops,

ed in development of joint projects with foreign partners

and implement joint master-classes and seminars. Due to

who will contribute to the development and promotion

the new policy of Kaliningrad Amber Factory, amber has

of amber production. That is why the management of the

gained a new relevance in a view of Russian designers, and

factory is interested in development of mutually beneficial

the masters got the opportunity to access a “solar stone”.

relationships with foreign partners aimed at the imple-

“Attracting young Russian designers to work with amber

mentation of joint projects on promotion of amber and

will result in emergence of new trends in processing of the

development of amber production. According to Director General of JSC “Yantarny Yuvelirprom” Vadim Vodopjanov, the company values those partners first “who take part in creating something and not just sell goods”. According to him, the company which is the largest producer of amber products in the world is oriented to partners involved in modeling and production of finished jewelry. “We do not have anything in common with those companies that are oriented only in resale,” said the head of the company. One of the examples of effective international cooperation is

The installation of an audio-visual artist explores the physical properties of amber and uses its ability to transmit light to become a conveyor of information

International Biennale of products from amber, which took

stone and in emergence of modern products correspond-

event. The Biennale was attended by artists and jewelers

ing to the tastes of the young audience,” thinks the direc-

from Austria, Belgium, Germany, Denmark, Spain, Italy,

tor of JSC “Kaliningrad Amber Factory” Mikhail Zatsepin,

Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Russia and France. Winners of the

“A direct dialog with the processors of amber will help

contest were determined by the authoritative jury, repre-

young artistic personalities to feel the nature of the stone

sented by experts and specialists in the field of jewelry and

better and will precipitate the work on the creation of new

lapidary art from Denmark, Italy, Poland, Russia and France.

jewelry and objects of interior by using amber.” Accord-

The highest interests of the industry are in the spread

ing to Deputy General Director of the subsidiary company

of amber as one of the most beautiful stones not only in

of the Amber Factory, JSC “Yantarny Yuvelirprom”, Yekat-

the territory of Russia and the Baltic countries. And this

erina Mashutova, it is intended to work in the company on

should be started cultural exchange among the countries,

expansion of the audience of customers. “We hope that in

which will continue by the pragmatic economics. The

15-year time a portrait of our customer will change drasti-

Amber Factory, which is the main company for extraction

cally. Young people will become the customers of amber

of amber, starts the process of spreading the fashion on

jewelry. In addition, we intend to shift to new customers

amber as a new promising material worldwide. The aim

not only without losses but with significant increase in

is to make “solar stone” popular and fashionable all over

sales as well,” says Yekaterina. That is why the factory and

the world and not to limit its use only as a souvenir from

its subsidiary companies initiate various creative activities

Kaliningrad and neighbouring Baltic countries.

place in June of 2015. A subsidiary company of Amber factory JSC “Yantarny Yuvelirprom” became a partner of the

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52


RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

THE LARGEST AND THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS EXHIBITION IN RUSSIA Report by JUNWEX Press Office

JUNWEX

BEST RUSSIAN JEWELRY CONTEST – PRESTIGE, BEAUTY, INNOVATIONS

Moscow is the only exhibition in the capital, where you can find all the leading Russian companies: Adamant,

Jewellers are getting prepared for

SOKOLOV, Topaz, Platina, Kameya,

one of the most important events of

Aquamarine, Diamonds of Kostroma,

the year – all-Russia jewellers contest

etc. New original collections of such

The Best Russian Jewelry. JUNWEX-

companies as Mousson, Ringo, Mas-

Moscow is a bright kaleidoscope of

ter Diamond, Jewellers of Ural are

precious pieces – from the distin-

convincing judges of jeweller’s art

guished classics and elegant luxury

of Russian designers’ competence,

to modern and avant-guard. Selected

and improvement of Russian Jewel-

pieces of jewellery art will obtain the

lery School based on traditions of

recognition of judges of authority,

Faberge, Khlebnikov, Sazikov, Bolin.

and also certificates of honour.

Apart from Russian jewelry business

GENERAL INFORMATION:

leaders, famous brands from France, Italy, India, Hong Kong, Brazil, Turkey, China, Thailand, Poland, Israel and UAE will be exhibited

• was established in 2005

as well.

• is an efficient way of cooperation with foreign

Today JUNWEX Moscow is not only the largest and the

partners and investments attraction

most prestigious exhibition in Russia, but also the most

• is one of the large-scale shows in Russia for

effective for the exhibitors from the commercial point of

promotion and presentation of international

view, both for jewelry manufacturers, trade specialists and

jewellery brands and goods for export

companies, that specialize on jewelry technology, equip-

• held at the up-to-date venue – All-Russian

ment, software, etc.

Exhibition Centre

Special technology department JUNWEX Tech offers

• the strong support of Russian Jewellery Trade Club

wide variety of goods and services for jewellery industry.

guarantees high attendance of wholesalers and

All the important enterprises will take part: Sisma, Fasti

orders placement

Industriale, Bulunmaz, Sapphire, Jeweler Partner, Juvin,

• Pre-Show and At-the-Show marketing resources

Umo etc. More information:

› www.junwex.com

www.balticjewellerynews.com

54


RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

PERSONAL ACCESSORIES: RISK VS OPPORTUNITY AS RUSSIA'S ECONOMY IMPLODES By Rob WALKER, Contributing Analyst, Euromonitor International

R

the second and third quarters of 2014, and it is what is now expected to be seen in Russia over the first half of 2015. The big question

ussia was one of the fastest growing

is whether the Russian personal accessories

markets in the world for jewellery

market is on the verge of a more sustained

last year, with sales climbing 10 %

slowdown, as real spending power erodes and

at fixed US dollar prices. That statistic might

as the economy sinks into recession. Recent

seem odd given the country's punishing eco-

trends show that the jewellery market and

nomic headwinds, but it is precisely because

luxury jewellery market in particular is highly

of this volatility – and the plunging rouble in

exposed to economic downturns (see chart).

particular – that demand for jewellery proved so strong.

AN OPPORTUNITY FOR LOCAL BRANDS TO SEIZE THE INITIATIVE

What was seen in Moscow and St Petersburg in the final quarter of last year was a dash to turn savings and pensions into US dollars and euros. This was followed by a

Russia's rouble has rallied over recent weeks, boosted

surge in sales of jewellery and other personal accessories

by stabilising oil prices and a fragile truce to the conflict in

as consumers sought to preempt widely anticipated price

Eastern Ukraine. But, its current value against the US dol-

hikes. There was a similar phenomenon in Japan during

lar is still around 40 % lower than it was in the middle of

the first quarter of last year when footfall in luxury stores

last year, and it is vulnerable to contagion from the West's

increased substantially as middle-class consumers hurried

economic sanctions. A return to falling oil prices later this

to beat an April rise in the sales tax.

year should not be ruled out either. Crucially, the Russian

Sudden sales spikes such as these almost always pre-

economy is widely expected to contract in 2015, with or

cede troughs though. That is what was seen in Japan in

without stable oil prices.

RUSSIA: JEWELLERY VALUE SALES VS GNI 2007–2014

lion personal accessories category? Firstly, global brands

What does all this mean for the country's US$13.0 bilare likely to get squeezed as prices move beyond the reach Year-on-year growth (%) in fixed 2014 Us dollars

of Russia's cash-strapped middle class. Secondly, product

US$/oz

development and retail investment plans for Russia are

30 25

likely to get redrawn as companies and investors wait out

20

the current downturn.

15

There are some potential winners though. In particu-

10

lar, the devaluation of the rouble will help make local

5

brands more competitive (on price point). There is also

0

an argument that Putin-inspired nationalism could drive

-5

up demand for Russian brands as tensions with the West

-10 -15

accelerate. Indeed, patriotic consumption has long been 2007 08 2008 09 2009 10 2010 11 2011 12 2012 13 2013 14

Jewellery

nurtured in Putin's Russia. Russian brands are already key players in the country's jewellery category. Krascvetmet,

Gross National Income

for example, saw its share of jewellery retail value sales

There is a strong correlation between jewellery sales and economic health

www.balticjewellerynews.com

56


for big-name global brands. Russians, keep in mind, are

start to climb higher over the next two years. While Rus-

important contributors to footfall in leading mixed retailers

sian brands are not immune to the economic slowdown,

across Western Europe.

they are clearly much less exposed than imported brands to the rouble's weakness.

MID-MARKET IMPORTS LOOK VULNERABLE

FALLING RETAIL SALES IN Q1 2015 ARE A SIGN OF THINGS TO COME Russia currently has the sixth biggest personal acces-

At the top end of the personal accessories category,

sories market in the world, but that position is starting to

there is less uncertainty because Russia's super-rich con-

look under threat. A rush to snap up products towards the

sumers are virtually immune to recession (a quarter of a

end of last year, especially jewellery, has given manufactur-

million households have an annual disposable income of

ers some breathing space. But, a period of more sluggish

more than US$300,000, according to data from Euromoni-

sales now seems inevitable.

tor International). This ought to help high-end brands such as Bvlgari and Boucheron stay buoyant.

Yes, sustained demand for domestic brands might offset some of the slowdown in the jewellery market as a

The biggest squeeze will be in demand for mid-market

whole, but Russia's middle class is visibly in the process of

brands, which is fuelled primarily by the middle class. Jew-

tightening its belt. For example, overall retail sales fell in

ellery brands such as Pandora could struggle, for exam-

January 2015 (year-on-year) for the first time in more than

ple. This is also where local players could pick up some of

five years, according to data from the Federal Statistics

the slack. As a direct consequence of the rouble's tailspin,

Service, and they dropped again in February.

the price of imported brands could go up by more than

Declining retail sales are likely to be the defining trend

40 % this year, unless manufacturers are prepared to slash

of the year ahead, leading to the most challenging operat-

margins.

ing conditions for personal accessories since the economic

Of course, the weak rouble also means that Russia's middle class will be travelling abroad less over the year

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

climb from 5 % in 2010 to 7 % in 2013. That share could

crisis of 2008–2009. Imported brands, in particular, will have to hold their nerve.

ahead, which could wield further downside implications

1991

we are changing ...

the meaning

of quality P.A.T. ul. Legionów 100 42-200 Częstochowa, Poland tel. +48 34 360 23 81 email: info@bugala.pl

www.bugala.pl

furniture packaging displays


RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

NEW STANDARD CHOSEN By Irina KLIMOVICH Grand Prix goes to Martin Messavilla (Italy) for the big and small necklaces “Lightbell” and the ring “Lightpoint”. 2015. Amber, silver, plastic

Until August 30, Kaliningrad Regional Amber

ety of collections. From traditional arts to avant-garde. In

Museum is exhibiting “solar stone works”

my opinion, the contestants have tried everything with the

from 12 European countries – Austria, Belgium,

‘solar stone’ they possibly could.”

Germany, the Netherlands, Denmark, Spain, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Russia, and

Julie Rey-Camet, General Secretary of Job house (BOCI),

France. A total of 290 articles were presented

Vice-President of Interprofessional council for bijouterie

for the contest “Metaphysics of Light” within

and time craft, such art contests are a unique platform for

the Sixth International Biennial of Amber Art

uniting artists from different countries. The jeweller, Board

Works “Alatyr 2015.”

member of the Danish State Art foundation for crafts and

W

1

According to the member of the jury from France,

design, Mette Saabye, a twice jury of the contest and the omen’s adornments, home decoration cre-

Grand Prix winner at the Biennale–2013 as a participant,

ated by 178 artists within the past two years

considers the amber as the object of history. It is interest-

were evaluated by the international jury,

ing to her as a mineral, as a resin frozen many millions of

which consisted of experts and specialists in jewellery and

years ago which sometimes encloses fragments of animal

carving art from Denmark, Italy, Poland, Russia, and France.

or vegetable origin.

“I think that the works that we have appreciated

“Gorgeous material,” says Mette Saabye, “I really like

should become a reference, a certain standard for artists

to work with it. Amber is becoming more and more popu-

over the next year or two,” states the chairman of the jury

lar worldwide every year, as more and more artists employ

Andrzej Shadkovski (artist, professor of Strzemiński Acad-

it to make their articles modern and eye-catching. We are

emy of Fine Arts in Lodz, Poland). “Grand Prix has gone to

always curious to see the result of this work.”

Martin Messavilla, Italy, for stylish minimalism and high-

Members of the jury were no less impressed with stu-

quality amber processing. Authors have presented a vari-

dents from Kaliningrad collaborated with during work-

2

3 www.balticjewellerynews.com

58

4


“Problems of Restoration and Conservation of Amber”,

For example, artist and designer, professor Benno Simma,

where scientists, conservators, artists, and art historians

has noted the meeting was productive of much good not

from Poland, Russia, and Ukraine presented their reports.

only for the novice jewellers who got the chance to escape

It is gratifying to note that there are more young authors

the daily routine at these classes and get new information

among participants of the competition. For example, this

from competent professionals, but also for himself.

has been the first year for works of the Association of Rus-

Special interest of both among students and quite

sian Designers and “Russian Amber” artists (Moscow) – the

experienced amber craftsmen was raised by the workshop

result of their creative cooperation with experienced Kalin-

“Storage and Preventive Conservation of Amber Works”,

ingrad masters from the Association of Amber Processors.

which took place at the Biennale “Alatyr 2015” within the

Visitors of the museum were highly excited with the

framework of the co-project between the State Hermitage

concurrent exhibition “Time Connection”, held within

and the Coca-Cola System “Let's Save Cultural Heritage

the Biennale. There were exhibited brooches, necklaces,

Together". It was conducted by Marina Michri – restorer

tiaras, rings, accessories, jewellery created by “Smolensk

artist of the highest category of the Laboratory for Scien-

Diamonds” team based on outstanding authentic sketches

tific Restoration of Objects Made of Organic Materials of

of artists of Carl Faberge Company from the collection of

the State Hermitage.

the State Hermitage. The exhibition was organized in part-

“The theme of restoration and conservation of amber is

nership with a subsidiary “Rubin” (Kaliningrad) of OJSC

very important for Kaliningrad,” says director of the Amber

“Yuvelirtorg.”

Museum Tatyana Suvorova, “as all the Kaliningrad museums

The International Biennale “Alatyr” has been tradi-

have amber collections, and in this situation we have no

tionally supported by the Ministry of Culture of Kalinin-

professional restorers in our region. It is especially relevant

grad region. In 2015, General partner of the Biennial was

for archaeological findings.” These issues were addressed

“Yantarniy Yuvelirprom”, subsidiary of Kaliningrad Amber

at the international scientific and practical conference

Combine.

1 Laureate in the category “Creation of Artistic Image” –

the works exhibited at this competition,” mentioned in her

“We were astonished with beauty and uniqueness of

Jaroslaw KOLEC (Lodz, Poland). Brooch “Light.” 2015. Amber, silver casting

speech the Minister of Culture of Kaliningrad region Svetlana Kondratieva. “The Amber Museum raises the bar of

2 Laureate in the category “Creation of Artistic Image” – Olga

the biennial higher and higher every year, winning new

TSYPLAKOVA (Kaliningrad, Russia). Brooch No.3 from the set “Electron”. 2015. Amber, metal, copper wire, author’s technique

friends and partners. Thanks to such large-scale interna-

3 Laureate in the category “Innovation” – Susanne ELSTNER

tional projects, amber becomes not just a symbol of our

(Germany). Brooch series "Of the Same Origin". 2015. Amber, charcoal, silver, steel

land, but also of the whole Russia.

4 Laureate in the category dedicated to the Year of Literature

in Russia – Daria NESTEROVA (Togliatti, Russia). Brooches series “Winged” after the works of Marc Chagall. 2015. Amber, ivory, bronze, carving, casting

THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION Capital Moscow Official language Russian Currency Russian ruble Time zone in Moscow (USZ1 (UTC+03:00) Area 17,1 million km2 Population (2015) 146 270 033 Government A federal semi-presidential republic President Vladimir Putin Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 24 067 EUR Ethnic groups (2010) 81.0 % Russian 3.7 % Tatar 1.4 % Ukrainian RUSSIAN Largest cities FEDERATION Estonia Moscow 11 503 501 Saint Petersburg 4 879 566 Latvia Novosibirsk 1 473 754

5 Laureate in the category “Skill” – Kirill BOR (Kaliningrad,

Russia). Tobacco pipe “Boy on the Dolphin”. 2014. Natural amber, pressed amber, carving, coloration *Pictures – from the archive of the Kaliningrad Regional Amber Museum

5 www.balticjewellerynews.com

59

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

shop (the educational program held within the Biennale).


ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

BALANCE of fashion

jewellery and art

Interview with Tanel VEENRE by Venecija GUNTORIUTE ents that they let me do what I really enjoyed. My mother has artistic education and father is violinist – so culture has been essential part of our everyday lives. In high school I became seduced a bit by fashion world ­­– so I was flirting with it for some years. But seriousness of jewellery finally won. Is there any artist, jeweller that inspires you or is your role model? I am rather social and very curios – so I am consatntly surprised and inspired by others... But for sure biggest How do you understand jewellery? Why did you

influence has been my teacher Kadri Mälk.

choose to express yourself through jewellery?

Are other forms of art besides the jewellery, present in your work?

I see jewellery as an extention of a mind on the body. Choice of a jewellery was rather unconcious and random...

Although I think most of contemporary fine art is

I loved to get lost in the detail and that was probably my

decaying nonsense I got now and then inspired by the con-

idea of a jewellery then. Real power as a medium where

flicts I see there. My way of creating is so synergical that I

you can compress big ideas into smallest format came later.

can see whole culture reflecting there for me – from clas-

Professor Kadri Malk has written about you: “The

sical music to pop art, from burlesque dance to body art...

method Veenre uses is fragmentary – an observation

How did you manage to reach the foreign audi-

of the unknown in the light of the known”. Are you

ence? As your art jewellery pieces are sold through

trying to describe the world as seen through your

galleries – Ornamentum (USA), Platina (Sweden),

eyes?

SODA (Istanbul), Pont&Plas (Ghent), Galerie Noel

My own eyes are the only ones I have ... Even though

Guyomarch (Montreal), PUTTI (Riga), ATTA (Bang-

I love to dive through empathy into other mindsets and

kok), Thomas Cohn (Sao Paolo) and RA (Amsterdam).

challenge myself looking through others eyes. I had a long

Everything is built day by day, brick by brick. With the

waking up today, it`s a rainy Sunday and I was reading

help of supporting and generous souls around me. I have

“Moments od Being” by Wirginia Woolf, I felt like I had

this phisolosophy that I just have to dream big and work

her eyes for a moment. Although probably more realis-

hard and then everything fallows. I don`t push the things,

tic perception would be that I had these eyes before that

I just let them happen. What was the biggest challenge for you in your

inside my and this book just made me to find them ... So

jeweller career?

we are probably always looking for things we already have through reflections on others.

I have several burning question marks in my heart – so

My materials seem the most usual for me... It`m my

always the present ones seems the biggest ... Right now

natural way of being, communicating with surroundings.

I have been questioning the the relationship between the

How and when did your passion for jewellery

trap of artistic style (expectations, handwriting) and the

started? Does any of your family members do some-

real. Is it possible that they overlap or they are opposites?

thing related with art?

How to stay honest without becoming a copy of myself?

Art has always been present in my life, I have`nt ever

Other big technical challenge for me right now is

had any other dreams than become an artist. As a kid I was

how to balance my fashion jewellery (www.tvj.ee) and art

drawing all days on the floor – and I am grateful to my par-

(www.tanelveenre.com)? How to build up production to

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60


ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

really fresh eye putting jewelley into contemporary art context. I think Latvia and Lithuania might be stronger in fashion jewellery, I have seen some really exiting young brands with bold pieces. Looking at your instagram, people can see a lot of art pictures, do you take them by yourself? I always do all my pictures I share in social media by myself. I really love the communicative power of social media – instead of showing only my own stuff I try to open up the process, to show inspirational sources. And I also try to show a lot of great things other artists do, specially the young ones. There is so much talent around me, it gets me thrilled constantly. What are your plans for future? In what ways would you want to grow, are there any techniques that you would like to try? I would like to get my fashion jewellery production done much more smoothly and in bigger quantities. And in art – I am super exited to prepare my next shows and lectures in Brazil, China, Spain, USA, Estonia ... I don`t need any holydays, I answer the demand of the market without spending my

just wanna work in my studio whole days... Running there

whole life there and to have still ideas and time for my art.

also right after I finish answering you  What would you advice for anyone who is plan-

What is the idea behind your recent jewellery? Do

ning to start creating jewellery?

you think that jewellery should have an idea behind it? For sure! But it can be whole story or system of values,

Be bold, work hard, recognize details. And don`t for-

it should`nt be just a sentence you could write on your flag.

get that you are not alone.

Right now I am super exited about the relationship between power, masculinity, military design and erotical forms. Do you have any loyal customers that waits for

REPUBLIC OF ESTONIA

your new pieces of work?

EU, NATO Capital Tallinn Official language Estonian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2); Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 45 227 km2 Population (2015) 1 313 271 Government Parliamentary republic President Toomas Hendrik Ilves Prime Minister Taavi Roivas GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 25 172.30 EUR ESTONIA Ethnic groups (2015) 69.1 % Estonians, 31.3 % others Largest cities Latvia Tallinn 394 024 Tartu 101 092 Lithuania Narva 66 980

There are collectors who really follow my way of growing. I am grateful for them and it`s really a responsibility as well – I have to push myself every day so hard to get better, to inspire. Maybe the black book carved out of jet. Or white seahorses with milky opal. What do you think about jewellers from the Baltic States? Could you name your favourite one? To be honest I think art jewellery is strongest in Estonia, there are ca 10 artists who are appreciated in international scene. But the strongest art jewelley gallery is in Riga, PUTTI is doing such a great job to make jewellery visible for local audiences. And gallery (AV17) in Vilnius has

› www.tanelveenre.com, www.tvj.ee, www.facebook.com/tvjewellery, Instagram @tanelveenre

www.balticjewellerynews.com

62


AMBER-BERNSTEIN Poilsio str. 7, LT-93200, Klaipeda, LITHUANIA Mob. +370 68631576 uab.artvetus@gmail.com, www.ambertrade.euu


LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

ART GALLERY PUTTI

presents the summer exhibition „White horse in a green meadow”, on display from June 22 until September 4, 2015

S

Report by PUTTI Press Office

SUMMER EXUDES WARMTH LIKE QUIET HEARTBEATS. There is a desire to fall into the soul of dandelion fluffs and feel the love of wind. The blue, blue sky moves above heads like ocean. Moon beams in the calm river waters. Summer dances in the rhythm of river depths. Storks fly over the garden give us their blessing. White horses wander in the meadow in the early morning. Summer shines forth through the horse`s wise eyes. All is us.

D

ifferent Latvian and international contemporary

(Italy), Reka Lorincz (Hungary), Heng Lee (Taiwan), Julia

jewellery artists participate in the exhibition

Maria Kunnap (Estonia), Asa Elmstam (Sweden), Ana Car-

“White horse in a green meadow”: Guntis Laud-

dim (Portugal), Kira Yurina (Japan), Yuki Sumiya (Japan),

ers (Latvia), Māris Auniņš (Latvia), Māris Šustiņš (Latvia),

Ying-Hsiu Chen (Taiwan), Yung-Huei Chao (Taiwan), Kirsty

Valdis Brože (Latvia), Andris Lauders (Latvia), Gigi Mariani

Pearson (England), Lena Lidahl (Sweden).

Guntis LAUDERS, ring – silver 925, ivory, amethyst, sapphire

Kirsty PEARSON, earrings, CONFRONTATION – nylon, cotton, stainless steel

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64


LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Māris ŠUSTIŅŠ, earrings – silver 925, pearl

Yuki SUMIYA, brooch, GARDEN – oxidized silver, sponge

Heng LEE, brooch, FLORAL EMBROIDERY PIXEL – stainless steel plated with 20K gold, thread, silk organza

Ying-Hsiu CHEN, brooch, SOFT CORAL – light clay, laundry bag, 18K plated brass

Asa ELMSTAM, ring – gold

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65


LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Māris AUNIŅŠ, ring – silver 925, amethyst

Valdis BROŽE, earrings -silver 925, gold 750, olivin

Andris LAUDERS, earrings – silver 925', gold 750', topaz

Gigi MARIANI, ring, IN BALANCE – silver, 18kt yellow gold, niello, patina

Julia Maria KÜNNAP, ring, MAYBE STILL – nephrite

Reka LORINCZ, brooch, PEARL CAN - gold 750', pearls

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66


LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Yung-huei CHAO, brooch, ROOFTOP – copper, nickel silver, stainless steel wire and components

KIRAYURINA, brooch – acrylic mirror, wood

Lena LINDAHL, necklace, ANGER – silver, etched zinc, pearls, artificial leaf

For more information please contact:

Zane EŠMITE e-mail: gallery@putti.lv phone number: +371 26 133 753

Ana Cardim, two rings, OMPLEMENTARITY – silver, button

REPUBLIC OF LATVIA EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Riga Official language Latvian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 64 589 km2 Population (2014) 1 997 500 Government Parliamentary republic President Raimonds Vējonis Prime Minister Laimdota Straujuma GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 22 655.43 Estonia Ethnic groups (2014) 61.4 % Latvians 26.0 % Russians LATVIA 3.4 % Belarusians Largest cities Lithuania Riga 713 016 Daugavpils 93 312 Belarus Liepaja 76 731

www.balticjewellerynews.com

67


UAB DEVYNI GINTARAI DEBRECENO 70–10 KLAIPEDA LT-94153 LITHUANIA

owner EDVARDAS ZUMBRICKAS TEL. +370 39838245 FAX +370 46360652

www.amber999.com


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Giedrius GUNTORIUS in his exhibition opening speach thanked Mr. FEHRN for his contribution to amber jewellery industry

“AMBER TRIP” is becoming increasingly popular

By Virginija ZYGIENE

The largest international jewellery and amber show in the Baltic countries “Amber Trip 2015” attracted a record number of participants this year, and distinguished itself by an expanded exhibition area and exclusive collections presented during the show.

XII

international jewellery and amber show in the Baltic countries “Amber Trip” attracted a record number of participants

this year – around 150 jewellery and amber representatives from around the world as well as several dozens of artists participated in the show. The show was visited by VIP buyers who came from remote corners of the world such as Kamchatka Peninsula in Russia, Japan or Kuwait. The total area of the exhibition has grown to such a size as it was in 2009, the year of global financial crisis, when the maximum exhibition size was reached. “Significant increase in the number of participants and the exhibition area indicate a recovery of the Baltic jewel-

Thunder stone – the largest amber nugget in Lithuania retrieved from the bottom of the Baltic Sea and its weight reaches 3 820 grams. From Kazimieras MISGIRIS collection

lery market and high demand to organize such a show. Amber products are becoming increasingly popular in

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70


Tarasova from St. Petersburg (Russia), while the winner

Giedrius Guntorius, head of the show organizing company

in the “Objects” category was Zane Žukovska from Lat-

“Amber Trip”.

via – her art piece “Trap” was nominated “For expressive

As every year, various seminars and events were held

dialogue".

and topics regarding amber and jewellery were discussed

The organizer of “Amber Trip” hopes that in 2016 the

during the show. Since “Amber Trip” show is the first inter-

exhibition will attract an even larger number of partici-

national jewellery show of the year throughout the Baltic

pants and the show will help each participant to find new

Sea Region, as well as the only specialized exhibition in

business partners and markets, as well as bring a lot of

the Baltic countries, it is very important for its participants

successful transactions.

as it outlines goals for the whole year: prices and article designs crystallize and the purchasing power in the region becomes more clear in this show. During the exhibition, Jonas Satkūnas, Director of Lithuanian Geological Survey, shared plans to mine amber in Lithuania, which is located in the Curonian Lagoon, near Juodkrantė. He stated that prospecting and mining works of amber deposits may begin later this year. The Ministry of Environment of Lithuania will publish an invitation to tender, while business representatives have already stated their desire to participate in the tender procedures. The annual amber mining quota could reach around 30 tons per year. Participants and visitors of the XII international show “Amber Trip” had an exclusive opportunity to see and learn about famous collections. During the show, amber workshop “Carskoje selo” from St. Petersburg (Russia) presented 26 exact copies from various collections: Amber room fragments, scientific reconstructions of items from the lost collections of Berlin and Kongsberg, amber icons, as well as creative masterpieces created by amber artists. “Amber Trip” show also included the demonstration of “Perkūno” stone (Thunder stone). It is the largest amber nugget in Lithuania retrieved from the bottom of the Baltic Sea and its weight reaches 3 820 grams. This unique amber nugget has been wandering around the world for a long time and even visited Kuwait. During the show, an international jewellery art contest “Dialogue of Opposites” was held, where jewellers from not only Lithuania, but also from around the world were competing with each other. In the “Jewellery” category, first place was granted to Natalija Tarasova and Tatjana

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71

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Arab countries, as well as in America and Europe”, – says


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

“JEWELLERY” CATEGORY 1st place Natalija TARASOVA, Tatjana TARASOVA (St. Petersburg, Russia) “For plasticity of form” Ring, gummed paper, amber, silver

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72


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT By Virginija ZYGIENE

Each

year, “Amber Trip” exhibition

materials, depth and plane, statics and dynamics, etc. This

presents talented and original jewellery artists from the

may have been one or several pieces of jewellery connect-

Baltic Sea Region, as well as from other countries of the

ed by a common topic, raised goals and composition. The

world. Jewellers from the Baltic countries, Russia, Poland,

most important thing was to clearly express one's idea and

Germany, Finland, Norway and Sweden participated in the

not damage the unity of the composition.

contest, which took place during the XII International Bal-

Contestants competed in two categories: “Jewellery”

tic Jewellery Show on 18–21 March, 2015.

and “Objects”. In the “Jewellery” category, first place was

Chairwoman of the commission from St. Petersburg,

granted to Natalija Tarasova and Tatjana Tarasova from St.

Galina Kovaliova says that its participants had to create a

Petersburg (Russia), while the winner in the “Objects” cat-

visual composition, whose base is the contrast between

egory was Zane Žukovska from Latvia – her art piece “Trap”

two opposite features. The difference between these fea-

was nominated “For expressive dialogue”.

tures may have been related to technological methods,

2nd place Ginta ZBOROVSKA (Latvia) “For diverse material matching solution” Brooch, plastic, amber, net, iron

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73


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

3rd place Kęstutis STANAPĖDIS (Lithuania) “For elegant union of materials” Gold, amber, acrylic, silver 

4th place Eglė TAMOŠIŪNAITĖ (Lithuania) “For dialogue between illusion and reality” Earrings “Collusion”, silver, amber

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74


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT “OBJECTS” CATEGORY 1st place Zane ŽUKOVSKA (Latvia) “For expressive dialogue” Object “Trap”, iron, amber 2nd place Emilija RAGINSKYTĖ (Lithuania) “For playful censorship” Object “Censorship”, wood, silver, amber, wire

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75


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

ž4th place Rūta NIČAJENĖ (Lithuania)

“For philosophical solution of different materials”

Object “Dialogue of Opposites I, II”, “Dialogue with Irena DAUKŠAITĖ - GUOBIENĖ”, amber, copper, brass, bronze, cliché 

4th place Jurij VELIKOTSKIJ (Kaliningrad, Russia) “For poetic work image” Object “We are Pribalts”, field stone, amber 

3rd place R. Mėnulio KATINAS (Lithuania) “For visual theme solution” Object “Secret. Fragrant tears”, amber, glass, cardboard, mirror

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76


LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

OBSERVED TRENDS IN THE LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY MARKET Lithuanian Assay Office team and exhibition “Flowers, flowers…” participants

By Virginija VAŠKELYTĖ State Enterprise Lithuanian Assay Office

Fourth trend. Diamond weight in jewellery arti-

(“Lietuvos prabavimo rūmai”) is an institution

cles has decreased by half. This means that articles with

carrying out the state supervision of precious

precious stones have lost their massiveness, which was

metals and stones in Lithuania. The company's

replaced by modest and aesthetic beauty. In addition, the

activities focus not only on the control of

weight of the articles themselves has decreased and con-

legal entities, but also on the protection of

tinues to decrease. Thus, the produced jewellery articles

consumers.

are not as massive anymore due to fluctuating gold prices in the market.

MARKET CHANGES

INFORMATION ABOUT BUSINESS TRENDS

In recent years, new trends began to emerge in the

According to the data of the Lithuanian Assay Office, in 2014, there was a decrease in the number of legal enti-

jewellery market. Four main trends can be distinguished: First trend. Precious metals are often combined with

ties carrying out activities related to jewellery. When com-

base metals in jewellery articles. Manufacturers create

paring 2013 and 2014, the number of newly registered

more jewellery articles using various decorative elements,

business entities has decreased by 6.09 % (164 units in

including enamel, fabric, bone, leather and ornate stones.

2013, and 154 in 2014) (see Figure 1).

This is especially popular when creating bracelets or ear-

NEWLY REGISTERED BUSINESS ENTITIES

rings, when base metal materials are used for decoration. Second trend. It is becoming increasingly popular to

Untis

cover silver and gold articles with rhodium coating. Coat-

165

ing jewellery articles with rhodium protects them from scratches. Articles that are coated with it do not change

160

their colour, nor lose their shine for a long time. This is becoming increasingly important for consumers that are

155

constantly in a hurry and do not have the opportunity to provide appropriate additional care for their jewellery. The

150

jewellery article must be beautiful and retain its original state as long as possible.

145

Third trend. The market offers a very broad selection

2013

2014

of products, therefore more buyers appear who purchase yellow or white gold articles. It was observed that the

There was a slight increase in the number of business

amount of puffed gold articles, silver articles decorated

entities who terminated their activities. When comparing

with gold and silver articles with large decorative stones

2013 and 2014, the number of business entities who

has increased in the market.

terminated their activities has increased by 18.19 %

www.balticjewellerynews.com

78


(18 units in 2013, and 22 units in 2014). The increase

When summarizing the amount of hallmarked and

in the number of business entities who terminate their

stamped precious metals, it was observed that, in 2014

activities can be related to the changed national currency

(compared to 2013), there were more hallmarked gold

of Lithuania. When preparing for currency changes,

(22 %) and silver (2 %) articles.

most small and weak companies questioned the success of their business and were forced to terminate their

HALLMARKING OF AU AND AG ARTICLES

activities.

(2013–2014 YEARS)

DEREGISTERED BUSINESS ENTITIES IN 2013 AND 2014

Million pcs

1,5

Untis

25 1,0

20 15

0,5

10 0,0

5

2013

Au

0

2013

2014

Ag

2014

Currently, the growth in the precious metal and stone becoming

market is slower than several years ago. Nevertheless, an

increasingly popular, however, there is a slight decline

Jewellery

trade

on

the

internet

is

increasingly wider selection of various different jewellery

in this area as well. 40 business entities carried out

is observed in the Lithuanian market, resulting in distinctly

e-commercial activities related to jewellery in 2013, and

increased competition.

35 business entities in 2014. Thus, the decline reaches 12.5 %. Even though there was a decline in the previously

REPUBLIC OF LITHUANIA

discussed areas in 2014, however, the amount of hallmarked

EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Vilnius Official language Lithuanian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2); Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 65,300 km2 Population (2015) 2 904 391 Government Parliamentary republic President Dalia Grybauskaite Prime Minister Algirdas Butkevicius GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 25 366.53 EUR Ethnic groups (2011) 84.1 % Lithuanians Latvia 6.6 % Poles 5.8% Russians LITHUANIA Largest cities (2014)

and stamped precious metal articles has increased by 4.28 % (1,34 million pcs in 2013, and 1,4 million pcs in 2014).

HALLMARKED PRECIOUS METAL ARTICLES Million pcs

1,40

1,35

1,30

2013

Vilnius 539 939 Kaunas 304 097 Klaipėda 157 350 Klaipėda 158 541

2014

www.balticjewellerynews.com

79

Poland

Belarus

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

THE PRODUCED JEWELLERY ARTICLES ARE NOT AS MASSIVE anymore due to fluctuating gold prices in the market


UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

CHRONICLE OF THE AMBER WAR

Ukraine, Summer 2015 S By Elena BELICHENKO


considerable refinement and was submitted for considera-

The problem has been caused by a number of reasons,

the conflicts between miners and law enforcement bodies,

i.e. a difficult financial situation in the country caused by

the “protection racket” for amber mining by the “persons

war, a sharp rise in the price of amber in the global mar-

of force”, and the emergence of “amber mafia” started to

ket, little responsibility for illegal mining in Ukraine, relative

appear in the press. Particular attention was focused on the

cheapness and simplicity of technologies for amber mining

new region of mining, Olevsk District in Zhytomyr Oblast,

by artisans due to its occurrence near surface. All this led

where amber was started to be mined in massive amounts

to an explosion of illegal artisanal mining of amber in Pole-

in 2014. In May, the problem of illegal extraction of amber

sia. In 2014, law enforcement bodies initiated more than

reached the level of the government of the country.

tion to relevant organizations. However, the time was lost and the situation went out of control. Since the beginning of 2015, the publications about the revitalization of illegal mining, the confrontation of different groups of miners, the criminalization of mining,

300 criminal cases for unauthorized extraction of amber.

05/06/2015. During the press conference on the

In accordance with the reports of State Customs Service of

occasion of the annual address to the Verkhovna Rada, the

Ukraine, only in the period of January – March 2015, there

President of Ukraine, Petro Poroshenko, commented on the

were revealed 38 cases of illegal export of amber, total

bill which should protect the environment and the interests

weight of which was more than 800 kg. In most cases,

of the state in the process of the extraction of amber.

amber was illegally exported to China and Poland. Experts

“Local people for whom this is the only place to work

have estimated that the circulation of uncontrolled market

are also involved there; that is why they defend the local

of amber by the state in Ukraine reaches 300 million US

criminals and the local authorities with such willfulness.

dollars per year.

So, our duty is to reduce to order. And that is why after

All participants of amber market in Ukraine are well

the meeting with journalists I initiated the law which, on

aware that the solution to the problem of illegal mining

the one hand, should ensure the protection of the envi-

of amber is only possible provided that there will be intro-

ronment and protect the interests of the state, and on the

duced bills which provide the implementation of artisanal

other hand, it should provide the work for those who work

mining in the places of occurrence of amber which do not

there,” stated Poroshenko. He noted that he expected the

have any commercial significance.

Verkhovna Rada to pass this bill in the nearest future.

18/06/2015.

In December 2014 – January 2015, there were sug-

Security service of Ukraine togeth-

gested several bills which should regulate the extraction of

er with the militia and prosecutor’s office disclosed and

amber – “For the peculiarities of extraction of raw amber

stopped the activity of two illegal groups in Zhytomyr

in the places of its occurrence which do not have any com-

Oblast. Without having a special permit for mining, the

mercial significance”, “For the extraction and realization of

offenders mined amber illegally. In order to suppress their

amber”, “For artisanal activity”.

activity, they had formalized the ownership for a land plot

In April 2015, the Verkhovna Rada of Ukraine took up

ostensibly to engage in agricultural activities in Olevsk Dis-

in the first reading the law “For the extraction and reali-

trict, Zhytomyr Oblast. In fact, the extraction of amber was

zation of amber”. This law offers a complex approach to

being performed in the plot all day long.

solving the problems indicated above. According to the

19/06/2015. In the village of Olevsk, the authori-

authors of the bill, a strategic objective is to create a civi-

ties of Zhytomyr Oblast and the heads of security agen-

lized market of amber in Ukraine with clear rules of partici-

cies held a meeting on the issues of illegal extraction of

pation in it. It is advised to solve the problem of employ-

amber.

ment of illegal miners by encouraging them to unite into

The president of Zhytomyr Oblast State Administration

mining artels. Separate sections of the bill are intended for

Sergey Mashkovskii announced about the establishment

legal regulation of peculiarities of formation and activities

of an interdepartmental group to combat illegal min-

of a mining artel and the basics of functioning of amber

ing of amber which would include representatives of law

market as well. According to the experts, the law needed

enforcement agencies, government, environmental servic-

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81

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

DURING 2014–2015, IN UKRAINE THERE WAS A SHARP GROWTH IN THE ILLEGAL EXTRACTION OF AMBER, EXPANDED THE AREA OF UNAUTHORIZED ARTISANAL MINING COVERING NOT ONLY THE TERRITORY OF RIVNE OBLAST BUT THE NORTHERN DISTRICTS OF ZHYTOMYR OBLAST AS WELL.


UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

es and the public. Also, he said that Zhytomir Oblast State

By the evening, aggressively minded local residents, whose

Administration initiated to declare Olevsk District as a zone

number was constantly growing, began gathering at the

of ecological disaster due to illegal extraction of amber.

subunit. At about 11.30 p.m., “men heated with alcohol”

On the same day, a large group of journalists, a group

started throwing stones at the subunit and breaking the

of activists “AutoMaidan” visited the largest site of illegal

fence. According to the agency, there emerged a real

extraction of amber 30 km away from Olevsk.

threat to the lives and health of the border guards and the

A journalist Denis Kazanskij reported about this on

representatives of Ministry of the Interior and Prosecutor’s

Facebook, “We were going in a motorcade with Auto-

Office, a threat to seize the weapons and official prop-

Maidan. We hit upon bandits’ camp in a forest near

erty. “In order to stop further negative development of

Olevsk; behind the fence, there was a town of wooden

events and in accordance with the legislation of Ukraine,

buildings. According to local people, during the “best”

law enforcement officials were forced to use weapons,”

days there are up to 1000 workers. But all the dwellers ran

stated the State Border Service. Instigators were detained

away before our arrival and removed security checkpoints

by the police. http://dpsu.goc.ua/

10/07/2015.

as well as managed to evacuate excavators and almost all

The channel for illegal export of

machinery. We managed to take photos just of military

amber to China, which was under control by the employ-

trucks. It is interesting why they are not on the front?”

ees of Odessa customs, was blocked by the Security Ser-

http://censor.net.ua/p340776

vice of Ukraine together with the border guards.

23/06/2015.

“The border guards of the check-

“One of the organizers of the fraud was an employee

point “Kiev” prevented the attempt to smuggle 14 kg of

of the risk analysis and counter customs violations of Odes-

raw amber from Ukraine,” informs the press-service of the

sa Customs. By taking the advantage of their official posi-

State Border Service of Ukraine.

tion, the malefactor organized the illegal export of large

“According to available operative information, the bor-

amounts of amber from the territory of Ukraine through

der guards together with the representatives of the Fiscal

the checkpoint “Airport Odessa”.

Service initiated a thorough inspection of luggage of two

Amber was being exported in batches of 100–200 kil-

Chinese citizens, students of a Ukrainian university, who

ograms several times a week, mostly by citizens of China.

were following the route Kiev – Moscow – Beijing,” says

The “customs officer” provided them a smooth passing

the message. Bags with raw amber which the passengers

through customs and border controls for a fee of 130 US

tried to hide from customs control were found in hand lug-

dollars per kilogram,” is written in the report.

gage. http://dpsu.gov.ua/

During a special operation, the employees of the

03/07/2015. When speaking at a regional meet-

Security Service of Ukraine detained a citizen of China

ing with the law enforcement agencies in Lviv, the Presi-

who was trying to export illegally 80 kilograms of amber

dent of Ukraine Petro Poroshenko gave “persons of force”

from Ukraine with the assistance of the customs officer –

two weeks to resolve the issue of illegal extraction of

accomplice. http://dpsu.gov.ua/

11/07/2015.

amber in the country. “I am giving the “persons of force”

In the village of Olevsk, Zhytomyr

two weeks to eliminate “protection racket” in the sites of

Oblast, a deputy of the City Council and activist Aleksandr

the extraction of amber,” said the President.

Nikolaichuk, who fights against a massive illegal mining of

He noted that if the situation did not change, he

amber and helped journalists to make a material about “the

would personally go to one of the three regions, i.e. Rivne,

republic of amber”, was beaten with reinforcement rod.

15/07/2015.

Volyn or Zhytomyr, where amber is extracted and would

At the checkpoint of Uzhhorod in

show how and who “protects racket” of noncompliance

Zakarpattia Oblast, 82 kg of smuggled amber were found

with law.

in the truck cab.

10/07/2015.

In Rivne Oblast, Lutsk border

15/07/2015. Within the day, the employees of the

guard officers prevented the attempt of illegal extraction

department of the Border Service “Shehyni” found caches

of amber 2 km away from the border of the state and

with raw amber twice during the inspection of vehicles.

detained seven people who were extracting amber ille-

The residents of Lviv Oblast tried to deliver the stone to

gally with a motor pump. According to the information

neighbouring Poland. Caches with the packets of amber

given by the agency, the tractor, the motor pump and the

were set in the constructions of vehicles. However, men

detainees were taken to the border subunit “Kamenny”.

failed to export the stones abroad as masked caches were

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82


grams of amber and the equipment for its illegal mining. http://www.sbu.gov.ua/

30/07/2015.

problem of illegal mining of amber is only possible provided that there will be introduced bills which provide the implementation of artisanal mining in the places of occurrence of amber which do not have any commercial significance

In Chernivtsi Oblast, the employ-

ees of the tax militia found the underground workshop for processing amber. During the search of the workshop, processed and raw amber was found. In addition, there were found six machines for its processing. The total amount of the seized makes one and a half million hryvnia. http://censor.net.ua/p345896

31/07/2015.

At the checkpoint “Shehyni”, Lviv

Oblast, border guards prevented one more attempt found by a joint inspection group of the border and cus-

to export amber from Ukraine illegally. On the eve, the

toms. http://dpsu.gov.ua/

officers of operative subunits of the State Border Service

18/07/2015. According to the press-service of the

received information on a possible cross-border transpor-

State Border Service, the State Border Service of Ukraine

tation of a large batch of amber. At about midnight, law

surveyed 373 km of rear sections of the border areas of

enforcement officers were implementing the measures of

Lutsk and Zhytomyr districts using small aircraft and found

control at the checkpoint and paid attention to two vehi-

four sites of illegal mining of amber. http://dpsu.gov.ua/

cles of foreign registration following the exit from Ukraine

22/07/2015. As informs the press-service of the

along the lane “green corridor”. The vehicles were driven

Security Service of Ukraine, in order to counter the ille-

by the citizens of Ukraine, the residents of Lviv Oblast. Dur-

gal extraction of amber, the Security Service of Ukraine

ing the visual inspection, it was realized that the boots of

together with the militia and the prosecutor’s office car-

both vehicles were loaded with plastic bags. As a result of

ried out six searches in the homes of residents of Olevsk

the inspection, 150 kilograms of raw amber were seized.

District in Zhytomyr Oblast who executed massive buying

http://dpsu.gov.ua/

01/08/2015.

of the stone mined illegally.

Now, the reports about the fight

It is stated in the report that there were seized

against illegal mining and smuggling of amber look like the

approximately 80 kilograms of amber, two motor pumps,

reports from the front. The tension is increasing, and one

165 metres of fire hoses, “black bookkeeping” and the

more month is still left to the beginning of the third session

machine for processing of stones. http://www.sbu.gov.ua/

of the Verkhovna Rada which is planned to consider the

24/07/2015.

In Volodymyrets District, Rivne

second edition of the law “For the extraction and realiza-

Oblast, militiamen were resisted by local miners who were

tion of amber”. A hot month of August…

extracting amber illegally. The crowd dispersed after the militiamen had used weapons charged with 12-milimeter

UKRAINE

rubber bullets. http://www.mvs.gov.ua/

29/07/2015. In Dubrovytsia District, Rivne Oblast,

Capital Kiev Official language Ukrainian Currency Ukrainian hryvnia (UAH) Time zone CET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+3) Area 603,628 km2 Population (2015) 44 429 471 Government Unitary semi-presidential constitutional republic President Petro Poroshenko Prime Minister Arseniy Yatsenyuk GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 7 498 EUR Belarus Ethnic groups 77.8 % Ukrainians 17.3 % Russians 4.9 % others Largest cities Poland Kiev 2 814 258 UKRAINE Kharkiv 1 441 622

there were clashes between the militiamen and those who extract amber illegally. 12 people were detained. http://www.mvs.gov.ua/

29/07/2014. In the outskirts of the village of Hulyanka, Korosten District, an interdepartmental raid group of law enforcement officers detained 24 people who were engaged in illegal activities for extraction of amber. A pretrial investigation has been started. http://censor.net.ua/

30/07/15.

The employees of the Security Ser-

vice of Ukraine together with the militia carried out a search in the accommodations of 10 residents of Olevsk District who were involved in illegal buying of amber. The Security Service of Ukraine seized more than 40 kilo-

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83

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

ALL PARTICIPANTS OF AMBER MARKET IN UKRAINE ARE WELL AWARE THAT the solution to the


CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT

ATTENDANCE UP AT WORLD’S LARGEST JEWELLERY MARKETPLACE

Survey: Market Sentiment Good Despite Global Challenges Report by HKTDC Press Office

8 March 2015 – The world’s largest jewellery marketplace, formed by the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show and the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show ended today. Under the “Two Shows, Two Venues” arrangement for a second successive year, the two shows welcomed over 76,000 buyers from 140 countries and regions, up 2 per cent over last year. Nearly 30,000 buyers visited the Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show at AsiaWorld-Expo (2–6 March), while over 46,000 visitors attended the Jewellery Show at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (4–8 March). Both events are

www.balticjewellerynews.com

84


ised and conducive to stone sourcing. Adrienne Dequarto,

(HKTDC).

the Director of Catalog Merchandising of Luxury Brand

“Despite the global economic challenge, the two

Holdings, which is also based in the US, highlighted that

shows recorded a slight increase in buyer attendance. It is a

the shows are important because they facilitate sourcing

very encouraging result. Attendance from some traditional

for the upcoming seasons and preview new trends, adding

markets even recorded double-digit percentage growth,

that; “we have fixed 50 appointments through HKTDC’s

such as the US, Italy, the UK and Japan. Attendance from

business matching service before coming to the show, and

certain emerging markets such as Thailand, Israel and

we have already bought samples for all our product lines.”

South Africa also recorded significant growth, reinforcing

The purchasing power of the emerging markets

Hong Kong’s position as a leading jewellery sourcing hub,”

should also not be ignored. Ayman M. N. Al Chaar, the

Benjamin Chau, HKTDC Deputy Executive Director, said.

owner of UAE-based Samer Jewellery, said he had placed onsite orders worth more than US$300,000. San Seyho,

CAUTIOUS OPTIMISM

the Director of Cambodia’s Chheng Hak Stone Diamond,

The HKTDC commissioned an independent agency to

noted that Cambodian consumers prefer high-end jew-

conduct onsite surveys during the two shows, interview-

ellery set with large diamonds as a sign of their wealth

ing 1,206 buyers and exhibitors about their views on mar-

and status. “We hope to find big diamonds, pearls, vin-

ket prospects, products and industry trends. The survey

tage diamond jewellery and uniquely designed jewellery

found that around 80 per cent of buyers expect steady or

at the two shows,” he said. “The Hong Kong International

increased overall sales this year. Over 60 per cent of buy-

Jewellery Show is huge, where buyers can find what they

ers and exhibitors expect retail prices to remain steady in

need. We plan to buy US$100,000 worth of jewellery at

order to remain competitive. Both buyers and exhibitors

the show to test our market.”

are optimistic about the growth potential of Hong Kong’s

Amid the economic uncertainties in Europe, there were

and the Chinese mainland’s jewellery markets, with most

some pleasant surprises at the fair. The Italian Jewellery

buyers and exhibitors considering the Chinese mainland a

Silverware and Watch Federation’s Chief Executive, Steven

key market to explore.

Tranquilli, revealed that the Italian retail market is recover-

In terms of product materials, the majority of buyers

ing, and consumers are favouring medium- to high-end

and exhibitors interviewed expect karat gold to be the

jewellery items. “The Federation will organise a delegation

most popular in 2015, including gold-karat white (48 %),

of about 50 Italian retailers to visit the two shows again

gold-karat yellow (32 %) and gold-karat rose (33 %). They

next year,” he said.

also predict that diamonds (50 %) will be the most popular gemstone this year, and one carat (48 %), round cut (45­ %) and colourless (41 %) diamonds will lead the market. The majority of respondents consider jewellery shows in Hong Kong effective. Ninety one per cent of buyers and 93 per cent of exhibitors consider Hong Kong’s fairs a major channel to find new suppliers, while 79 per cent of exhibitors consider the fairs a key avenue to promote new products. The majority of respondents said the twin Hong Kong fairs are their must-attend trade show.

US, EUROPE MARKETS SHINE Buyers from the United States have continued to surge. The US Jewelry Importers and Manufacturers Association had organised 10 jewellery companies to visit the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show to buy diamonds and coloured stones. The Association’s President, Dagbjorn Johnson, considered the shows well organ-

www.balticjewellerynews.com

85

CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT

organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council


WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

Official Price for raw amber by

Kaliningrad Amber Combine August 2015 AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size

Price/1 kg – EUR

+4; –11.5

6.84

+11,5 faction

28.38

+14 faction

47.53

+16 faction

70.96

+23 faction

118.02

+32 faction

196.69

2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

134.48

4gr. – 25gr.

173.09

50 gr. – 100 gr.

298.68

100 gr. – 200 gr.

504.01

200 gr. – 300 gr.

588.02

300 gr. – 500 gr.

653.35

* RUB/EUR exchange rate on 17th of August, 2015 - 1 Russian ruble = 0.013762212 Euros

www.balticjewellerynews.com

86


August 2015 AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size

Price/1 kg – EUR

+5 faction

15

.+6 faction

20

+8 faction

45

+11 faction

140

+14 faction

260

+16 faction

420

2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

500

5 gr. – 10 gr.

850

10 gr. – 20 gr.

1900

20 gr. – 50 gr.

3200

50 gr. – 100 gr.

3500

100 gr. – 200 gr.

5000

200 gr. – 300 gr.

5500

300 gr. – 500 gr

6000

FACTIONS 20–50G RAW AMBER PRICE CHANGE 2006 FERBRUARY – 2015 AUGUST

4300 3900 3500 3100 2700 2300 1900 1500 1100 700 300

03 2006

08

03 2007

08

03 2008

08

03 2009

08

03 2010

08

03 2011

08

03 2012

08

03 2013

08

03 2014

06

08

03 2015

08

If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: info@balticjewellerynews.com

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber


WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber August 2015 AMBER FROM POLAND Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

400

5 gr. – 10 gr.

800

10 gr. – 20 gr.

1650

20 gr. – 50 gr.

3700

AMBER FROM UKRAINE Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

540

5 gr. – 10 gr.

840

10 gr. – 20 gr.

1600

20 gr. – 50 gr.

3100

50 gr. – 100 gr.

3700

100 gr. – 200 gr.

4100

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88


balticjewellerynews.com


WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for Amber

Silver 925 Jewellery August 2015

Amber Silver 925 Jewellery

Price/gr

Handmade

2 EUR

Mashine made

1.40 EUR

AMBER SILVER 925 JEWELLERY PRICE CHANGE AUGUST 2010 – MARCH 2015 EUR/gr

3

2

1

0

2010 August

2011 March

2012 March

2012 August

2013 March

2013 August

2014 March

2014 August

2015 March

2015 August

mashine

handmade

SILVER PRICE CHANGE 2010 AUGUST – 2015 AUGUST EUR per Ounce

40

30

20

10

2010

2011

2012

2013

2014

2015

Source: www.quandl.com

If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: info@balticjewellerynews.com


GOLD PRICE CHANGE 2010–2015

EUR PER TROY OUNCE

1,400 1,280 1,160 1,040 920 800

Q1 Q2 2010

Q3

Q4

Q1 Q2 2011

Q3

Q4

Q1 Q2 2012

Q3

Q4

Q1 Q2 2013

Q3

Q4

Q1 Q2 2014

Q3

Q4

invest@gold.org

About gold price drop on 20th July read pg. 4–7

www.balticjewellerynews.com

91

Q1 Q2 2015

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Gold Price


WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

Amber Chamber travels AROUND THE WORLD By Klimt02.net MORE THAN SOMETHING WASHED ASHORE Edmund Spenser once wrote his lover’s name in the sand at the shore, twice, but the waves washed it away. The waves also transform amber, which is soft, warm, and can be white, yellow, brown, black, or skin tone. Amber is an organic substance, sometimes opaque, other times translucent, revealing a glimpse of its interior, with wonderful inclusions of a forgotten time. It can be alluring, electric, and when its contact is desired, it has healing qualities. Spenser’s lover told him that he and his gesture were both vain and for naught, as both she and her name were ephemeral. Spenser responded that his verses would immortalize her virtues and inscribe her name in heaven. While jewelry makers may be forced to work with more mundane materials at their disposal, their works in amber need neither explanation nor interpretation: The effect is immediate. The philosopher Michel Foucault* declared the death of the object as the source and basis of knowledge, freedom, language and history, perceiving a danger that mankind would disappear like footprints in the sand. Spenser reaches a different conclusion: When death overtakes the world, our love lives on, and renews Helfried KODRÈ, brooch, Dimensions: 60 x 90mm, 2015 Media/Materials used: amber, silver Photographer: Helfried KODRÉ

the life that comes after it. This is why jewelry makers work with amber: For a sense of personal happiness, and for the well-being of the living. / Karl Bollmann

THE AMBER CHAMBER EXHIBITION TRAVELS TO LUXEMBOURG TO PRESENTS TEN RENOWN ARTISTS TAKING A FRESH LOOK ON AMBER

Heidemarie HERB, untitled, 2014, Rings Materials used: Amber, 925 Silver Photographer: by artist

This exhibition shows a number of different approaches to amber, running the gamut from artists working with amber for the first time, to those who have been working with it for an extended period. The contrasts in these works should help to update the traditional and still rather one-sided view of amber jewelry, showing new possibilities about this interesting material. *Michel Foucault, Les Mots et les choses. Une archéologie des sciences humaines, 1966, Dits et Écrits, 1994

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92


WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT Elisabeth DEFNER, Ring, 2015 Dimensions: 48 x 24 x 35 mm Media/Materials used: copper+silver, opal, amber Photographer: E. J. DEFNER

Herman HERMSEN, Mona, 2015, pendant/necklace Dimensions: 120 x 70 mm Media/Materials used: Amber, wood, photoprint on aluminium Photographer: Herman HERMSEN Christiane FOERSTER, no title, brooch, 2015 Dimensions: ca. 60 mm x 35 mm Media/Materials used: silver, mother of pearls, amber Photographer: Norman WEBER

Beate KLOCKMANN, “n.T.”ring, 2015 Dimensions: 25 x 25 x 40 mm Media/Materials used: Gold, Amber, Plastic Photographer: Beate KLOCKMANN

Chamber

Elisabeth Defner Christiane Förster Heidemarie Herb Herman Hermsen Beate Klockmann Helfried Kodré Philip Sajet Peter Skubic Gisbert Stach Petra Zimmermann

Chamber

Amber

Amber

Gisbert STACH, “Golden Toast 3”, 2013, brooch Dimensions: 110 x 105 x 18 mm Media/Materials used: Baltic amber, transparent silicon, stainless steel Photographer: Gisbert Stach

Legnica Jewellery Festival SILVER 2015, 28.04–07.06.2015, Legnica, PL Galerie Orfèo, 10.07–23.08.2015, Luxembourg, LU Velvet da Vinci, 01.10–31.10.2015, San Francisco, USA Alternatives Gallery, 05.03–01.04.2016, Rome, IT (AV 17) Gallery, 01.07–31.07.2016, Vilnius, LT Galerie V&V, 06.10–16.11.2016, Vienna, AT curated by Heidemarie Herb

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AMBER FOR YOUR HEALTH

Succinic acid

BIOSTIMULATING EFFECT

Albert BOGDASAROV, Brest Regional Department of Belarusian Geographic Society

Maxim BOGDASAROV, A. S. Pushkin Brest State University, Belarus Paper abstract of one of the key lectures in International

It

conference: “Amber in the history of medicine”, 14–17 September 2015, Kaliningrad

was in the 17th century that scientists for the first

Many prominent experts in medicine, biochemistry, physi-

time managed to extract amber acid by refining amber – a

ology, microbiolo-gy, pharmacology, ecology, botany, and

substance that is a nonspecific biostimulant having an anti-

mineralogy have contributed to studying the subject.

inflammatory and anti-stress effect. The journal of the Sur-

Today, it has been established that amber acid in

gical Academy in Paris in the 18th –19th centuries published

organism's cells functions as an energy substrate, and its

investigations on amber's curative prop-erties. Today, sci-

salts have an adaptogene property and have an antihypox-

entists have conclusively established that centuries-old ex-

ic, anti-stress and neurotropic action, they can regulate

perience of using amber in treatment intuitively emerged

energy and constructive metabolism and a general physi-

on quite a scientific foundation.

ological state of an organism. Amber acid boosts

Amber acid (butanedioic acid, ethane -1, 2- dicarboxylic

biochemical and physiological reconstructive processes

acid) HOOC-CH2-CH2-COOH – is a dibasic carboxylic acid;

in different organs under the conditions of abnormality

it is colourless or milk-white crystals. It is easily sublimable,

and strenuous exercise, it eliminates metabolic aci-dosis.

highly soluble in water – 6.8 g in 100 ml of water at 20 ­°C.

It can be used with curative purposes in case of the organ-

Its molecular weight is 118.1. The melting temperature is

ism asthenization and in combination with substances sup-

188 °C. Salts and ethers of amber acid are called succi-

porting metabolism, and also along with some medicines

nates. The term “succinate”, strictly speaking meaning the

to enhance their effect or to eliminate toxical side effects.

anion of the succinic acid, is often used in the popular sci-

In many countries, including Belarus, amber acid is on

ence literature as a synonym to the term "amber acid".

an international list of sub-stances permitted for use, and

Amber acid participates in the process of organism's

it is used as a nutritional supplement (E363). In re-cent

cellular respiration, being an important part of the tri-

years amber acid has been increasingly used in the agri-

carboxylic acids cycle, or the Krebs cycle – a central me-

culture – in dietary structure of animals and poultry, and

tabolism component, the main way of obtaining energy

in crop farming. Preliminary treatment of planting mate-

in the course of organic substrata oxidation, and a point

rial with amber acid solution or twofold watering of plants

of intersection of numerous metabolic ways. Add-ing suc-

in the course of their growth enhances plant resistance

cinate from the outside activates the Krebs cycle in com-

to adverse factors (drought, cold, lack of moistness, and

pliance with the Le Chatelier-Braun principle (if a system

insufficient lighting), reduces plant morbidity, increases the

being in a stable equilibrium is affected from the outside

chlorophyll content in leaves which is manifested in a more

that results in changing any equilibrium condition, the sys-

considerable growth and a yield increase.

tem en-hances the processes aimed at the compensation

Another natural medicinal drug from amber is amber

of an external action) that allows to speed up the process

oil. Chiefly due to its offen-sive odor, amber oil in its pure

of removal of underoxidized metabolic products.

form is not widely used in medical practice. How-ever,

The biostimulating properties of amber acid and its

combined with olive, apricot, and almond oil in the ratio of

derivatives are widely de-scribed in literature, the number

1 : 20 it is used in massage therapy, in preventive care and

of such publications has increased in the past dec-ades.

treatment of skin diseases.

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94


CARTOON


INCLUSIONS

AMBER FOSSIL LINKS EARLIEST GRASSES, DINOSAURS AND FUNGUS USED TO PRODUCE LSD S Report by OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY Press Office

C

ORVALLIS, Ore. – A perfectly preserved amber

grasses,” said George Poinar, Jr., an internationally recog-

fossil from Myanmar has been found that pro-

nized expert on the life forms found in amber and a faculty

vides evidence of the earliest grass specimen ever

member in the OSU College of Science.

discovered – about 100 million years old – and even then

“This is an important discovery that helps us under-

it was topped by a fungus similar to ergot, which for eons

stand the timeline of grass development, which now forms

has been intertwined with animals and humans.

the basis of the human food supply in such crops as corn,

Ergot has played roles as a medicine, a toxin, and a

rice or wheat,” Poinar said. “But it also shows that this

hallucinogen; been implicated in everything from disease

parasitic fungus may have been around almost as long as

epidemics to the Salem witch trials; and more recently pro-

the grasses themselves, as both a toxin and natural hal-

vided the hallucinogenic drug LSD.

lucinogen.

Apparently both ergot and the grasses that now form

“There’s no doubt in my mind that it would have been

most of the diet for the human race evolved together.

eaten by sauropod dinosaurs, although we can’t know

And if they already seemed a little scary, imagine a

what exact effect it had on them.”

huge sauropod dinosaur that just ate a large portion of

Amber begins as a tree sap that can flow around small

this psychotropic fungus, which in other animal species

plant and animal forms and permanently preserve them,

can cause anything from hallucinations to delirium, gan-

as it fossilizes into a semi-precious stone. Poinar is a world

grene, convulsions or the staggers. The fungus, the grass-

leader in examining such specimens and using them to

es it lived on and dinosaurs that ate grass co-existed for

learn more about prehistoric ecosystems.

millions of years.

The fungus in this grass specimen, which is now extinct,

The findings and analysis of this remarkable fossil were

was named Palaeoclaviceps parasiticus. It’s very similar to

just published online in the journal Palaeodiversity, by

the fungus Claviceps, commonly known as ergot. The fos-

researchers from Oregon State University, the USDA Agri-

sil, taken from amber mines in Myanmar, dates 97–110 mil-

cultural Research Service and Germany.

lion years ago to the early-to-mid Cretaceous, when the

“It seems like ergot has been involved with animals

land was still dominated by dinosaurs and conifers, but the

and humans almost forever, and now we know that this

earliest flowering plants, grasses and small mammals were

fungus literally dates back to the earliest evolution of

beginning to evolve.

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96


The fossil shows a grass floret tipped by the dark fungus. Much later in evolution, grasses would become a powerful life form on Earth, creating

INCLUSIONS

vast prairies, nourishing herds of animals, and eventually providing for the domestication of range animals and the cultivation of many food crops. The rise of crop agriculture changed the entire development of the human race, and it’s now estimated that grasses compose about 20 percent of global vegetation. Researchers also noted in their report that “few fungi have had a greater historical impact on society than ergot.” Some grasses have natural defense mechanisms, and ergot may be one of them, helping to repel herbivores. It’s bitter and not a preferred food to livestock, and it’s still a problem in cereal and grass seed production, as well as pastures and grazing land. In animal and human history, the fungus has been known to cause delirium, irrational behavior, convulsions, severe pain, gangrenous limbs and death. In cattle it causes a disease called the “Paspalum staggers.” In the Middle Ages it sometimes killed thousands of people during epidemics when ergot-infected rye bread was more common. It’s been used as a medicine to induce abortion or speed labor in pregnant women, and one researcher – whose findings have been disputed – suggested it may have played a role in the Salem witch trials. More than 1,000 compounds have been extracted or derived from it, some of them valuable drugs. They also included, in the mid1900s, the powerful psychedelic compound lysergic acid diethylamide, or LSD, that is still being studied and has been widely used as an illegal recreational drug. Ergot is strange. And a very, very old fossil now makes clear that it’s been around about as long as grass itself.

Paleontologists are really pondering

THE QUESTION we never thought to ask: WERE DINOSAURS TRIPPING ON LSD? www.balticjewellerynews.com

97


TECHNOLOGY

Rubber mold are easy to be created by special resin print out

CHOOSE the best suitable 3D TECHNOLOGY By Adam KUCHARSKI – Rapid Prototyping Specialist In the rapidly growing sector of jewelry tools & machinery, 3D printing & designing technology appear more and more often. We can say that the interest and knowledge about the products in this field are growing and getting better every year. Professional jewelry designers and goldsmiths say that 3D designing CAD software like Gravotech’s 3Design Pro and Envisiontec 3D printers can revolutionize the jewelry sector all around the world.

3DESIGNING TECHNOLOGY FOR DESIGNERS

printer manufacturers and software

Young jewelry designers that are

providers, but it’s highly recommend

familiar with various digital environments

to check the market solutions because

are the most interested in the 3D design-

of the processing methods which every

ing programs. They just want to cross the

manufacturer provides. They are just

boundaries of their creativity abandon-

different and may not meet your our

ing hand crafted designing. It is getting

actual company’s needs.

You can choose from various 3D

simpler to create using such software.

Choosing your first 3D printer, you

The program simplifies the whole pro-

should look closely to the materials

duction of ready-to-go detail. We save

that the printer is operating with. We

our time – and as we all know – time is money. The total rapid prototyping technology increases the speed of the entire process, from designing to casting.

should avoid any plastics-material printOne of the professional DLP desktop machine guarantees best possible model quality

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98

ers because the melting point of such materials is not high and it might even be dangerous for usage in casting pro-


The 3D printer itself is the main equip-

totypes in the casting process you should

ment for the 3D business, but designing

closely look how the desired technology

software to transfer projects into reality is

works in such conditions. The quality

needful, too. When you will be picking up

of printed-out prototypes is important

your first 3D CAD software we recommend

because reduces the post processing of

to seek advice of professional specialist in

your models. The costs per print are also

this fields.

extremely important for overall profits,

First of all, the interface of the software

so it is crucial to choose consumables

must be easy to operate. The stones/pre-

optimized for the process. The training

cious materials’ libraries built-in in the pro-

and the support the producer or sup-

gram give useful jewelry designing experi-

plier provide, are not less important. It is

ence. Exporting the file to the formats like

strongly recommended to check out the

*.STL is the basic requirement, too. You can seek dealers selling a printer set coming

support before making a choice. Choosing among companies that have technical knowledge about all the stages of the production process is essential.

Entry-level printers are more and more popular just because of the price

with built-in designing software. Joining printer and designing software as a one set can be a hot deal – with reduced price.

CHOOSING YOUR FIRST 3D PRINTER, YOU SHOULD LOOK CLOSELY TO THE MATERIALS THAT THE PRINTER IS OPERATING WITH. We should avoid any plasticsmaterial printers because the melting point of such materials is not high and it might even be dangerous for usage in casting processes.

TECHNOLOGY

cesses. If you are planning to use the pro-


TECHNOLOGY

Sample print-out made of direct casting resin

The price range of 3D printers for jewelry manufacturers starts from a few thousand of Euros up to tens of machine has to offer. As it was mentioned before – the

FFF, FDM. FUSED FILAMENT FABRICATION METHOD

printout excellence, speed of the building process, work-

Fused filament fabrication is a technology that is

ing field, cost and quality of consumables are the most

mostly used for DIY sector and small businesses. Every-

important.

one who doesn’t need a high quality surface should meet

thousands Euros depending on various parameters the

the expectations. The method is based on a process that

TYPES OF 3D PRINTING TECHNOLOGY USED IN THE JEWELRY FIELD

involves melting ABS and building small areas, one next to

3D Printing is not a new technology, a fact worth

cool down they form elements.

another. Layers of plastic comes together and when they

noticing is that 3d printing was introduced in 1984. Since that day a wide range of technologies and materials the

DLP. DIRECT LIGHT PROJECTION METHOD

printers work with, has occurred. There are some meth-

Finally the method that provides the best quality, best

ods/technologies used now:

sharpness, and accuracy of the models now. Direct Light Projection uses LED light emitted by a projector – not a

SLA (ALSO KNOWN AS OPTICAL FABRICATION) RESIN LASER ACTIVATION METHOD

laser. This technology is mostly used in the jewelry branch because of its precision and quality of the details that

First technology introduced to the world in the jewelry

don't require complicated post processing. The resins used

field was the SLA – resin light curing. Laser controls the

during the process guarantee that the casting process will

beam of light to the place that needs to been harden. The

be easy and problem free.

process takes place in a liquid resin making one layer after

Reviewing the market of the jewelry rapid prototyp-

another and builds the model from ground up.

ing we come to a conclusion that designing software and 3D printers are gaining more attention. The global sale is

SLS, SLM. LASER BURNING AND MELTING METHOD

getting bigger and bigger year by year. We are in a point that this type of designing is stable and the entire process

Another type of technology used in jewelry sector is

simplifies the work of jewelers and goldsmiths all around

a selective method that takes places by burning and melt-

the world. The quality, especially of the jewelry DLP tech-

ing with the laser. (SLS , SLM). The printer starts from the

nology satisfies even the most demanding designers. Eve-

material powder creating thin layer in the working cabinet.

ryone who wants to be noticed in the market of jewelry

This method provides models that are suited extremely

designing and production should consider sooner or later

well for the casting process.

taking a step into rapid prototyping – into the future.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

100


THE DATE OF PUBLICATION:

THE DATE OF PUBLICATION:

http://www.rosbalt.ru/ ukraina/2015/07/30/1424167.html

http://www.rosbalt.ru/ kaliningrad/2015/07/24/1422468.html

JEWELLERY CRIME

30/07/2015 11:45

24/07/2015

24 “black diggers” of amber were detained in Zhyto-

KALININGRAD. 24th of July. The police officers of

myr Oblast

Kaliningrad confiscated more than 37 kilograms of amber

ZHYTOMYR. 30th of July. According to the regional

without documents from the offenders.

department of the Ministry of Interior of Ukraine, 24 peo-

According to the regional department of the Ministry

ple were detained by law enforcement officers for illegal

of Interior, the police officers of Svetly urban district per-

extraction of amber.

formed searches due to the investigation of the criminal

“On the 29 of July, in Korostenschina an interdepart-

case of the theft of jewelry worth a total of 480 thousand

mental raid group of law enforcement officers detained

Rubles. The theft was committed in one of private houses

24 people who had just started an illegal activity on the

in the village of Vzmorje. The police officers were checking

extraction of the solar stone in the region. A pre-trial

the likely places of buying and storing of stolen property.

th

investigation has been started,” says the message by the

As a result of the events, the police officers found and

law enforcement officers.

seized 37 kg 775 g of raw amber and 524 grams of amber

Among the detainees, there are the residents of the

production in the house of a 52-year-old resident. How-

oblasts of Zhytomyr, Rivne, Chernihiv and Kiev, aged 17 –

ever, the owner was not able to provide any permits for

48. Criminal proceedings have been started due to the fact

valuable digging and licenses for its treatment.

of the attempts to violate the rules of protection or use of

An administrative protocol was made for the offender

the resources. Clarification of all the circumstances of the

according to the article 7.5 of the Code of Administrative

case is being continued.

Violations (unauthorized extraction of amber). The appli-

It was reported earlier that on 29 of July local people

cation about the confiscation of seized raw material and

th

attacked the employees of the militia in the places of illegal

production has been directed to the court.

mining of amber in Rivne Oblast. Two militiamen and four

The resident of the village of Vzmorje is being checked

citizens were injured.

for the involvement in buying and treatment of property obtained in an illegal way.

THE DATE OF PUBLICATION:

27/07/2015

THE DATE OF PUBLICATION:

23/07/2015

http://www.rosbalt.ru/ exussr/2015/07/27/1423054.html

http://www.rosbalt.ru/ kaliningrad/2015/07/23/1421981.html

VILNIUS, 27th of July. Lithuanian border guards and customs officers detained at 48 kilograms of amber the

KALININGRAD. 23rd of July. The police officers detained

checkpoint in Nida which were attempted to import to the

18 “black diggers” of amber in Kaliningrad Oblast.

country by a citizen of the Russian Federation.

Last Wednesday, i.e. on 22nd of July, the police officers

According to the data of BNS, the illegal cargo was

of the Regional Department of Economic Security, SOBR

detected on Saturday during the inspection of the car

and the officers of the patrol police made massive raids.

Toyota Camry driven by a resident of Kaliningrad Oblast.

According to the regional department of the Ministry of

According to the Customs Department, undeclared raw

Interior, two motor pumps, five shovels and two axes were

amber was hidden in the spare tire and the car door.

seized from illegal miners in Zelenogradsky District.

The car of Russian citizen and raw amber, which is esti-

All offenders were taken to the Department of the

mated at almost 4 thousand Euro, were detained, there

Ministry of Interior of Russia in Zelenogradsky District

was made a protocol for a man for administrative offense,

where administrative protocols were made in respect of

for which he faces to be fined at the amount of from 2896

each of them due to the article 7.5 of the Code of Admin-

to 5792 Euro with the confiscation of the illegal cargo and

istrative Violations (unauthorized extraction of amber).

the car.

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102


Copenhagen Jewellery and Watch Show Date: 21–23 August 2015 Venue: Lokomotivvaerkstedet, Copenhagen, Denmark www.cphjs.dk info@cphjws.dk Japan Jewellery Fair Date: 26–28 August 2015 Venue: Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center, Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com info@japanjewelleryfair.com Ambermart – International Amber Fair Date: 27–29 August 2015 Venue: Amber Expo, Gdansk, Poland ambermart.amberexpo.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl The Norwegian Gold & Watch Trade Fair Date: 27–30 August 2015 Venue: Norway Trade Fairs and Thon Hotel Arena www.gull-og-ur-messe.no info@gull-og-ur-messe.no International Jewellery London Date: 6–8 September 2015 Venue: Olympia, London, United Kingdom www.jewellerylondon.com ijl.helpline@reedexpo.co.uk JOGS Fall Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 7–10 September 2015 Venue:Tucson, USA jogsshow.com info@jogsshow.com Iberjoya Date: 9–13 September 2015 Venue: Feria de Madrid, Madrid, Spain www.ifema.es/madridjoya_01 madridjoya@ifema.es 56th Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair Date: 10–14 September 2015 Venue: Impact Exhibition and Convention Center, Bangkok, Thailand bangkokgemsfair.com info@bangkokgemsfair.com Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Date: 15–18 September 2015 Venue: AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong SAR www.asiafja.com salesafj-hk@ubm.com

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 16–22 September 2015 Venue: the AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) and the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). www.jewellerynetasia.com salesjgf-hk@ubm.com JUNWEX Moscow Date: 30 September – 4 October 2015 Venue: All Russian Exhibition Center, Moscow, Russia www.restec.ru/junwex overseas@restec.ru

JUNWEX Date: 3–7 February 2016 Venue: ExpoForum Convention and Exhibition Centre, St. Petersburg, Russia eng.rjexpert.ru overdeas@restec.ru Signature Mumbai 2016 Date: 5–8 February 2016 Venue: Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India www.iijs-signature.org signature@gjepcindia.com

Gold Silver Time Date: 1–3 October 2015 Venue: Warsaw, Poland www.zlotosrebroczas.com w.gontarska@mct.com.pl

The Jewellery Show Date: 7–11 February 2016 Venue: Birmingham, United Kingdom www.jewelleryandwatchbirmingham. com sales@thejewelleryshow.com

Intergem Date: 2–5 October 2015 Venue: Messe Idar-Oberstein, Idar-Oberstein, Germany www.intergem.de office@intergem.de

Istanbul Jewelry Show Munich Date: 12–15 February 2015 Venue: Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo), Istanbul, Turkey www.ubmrotaforte.com info-rotaforte@ubm.com

Istanbul Jewelry Show October Date: 15–18 October 2015 Venue: Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo), Istanbul, Turkey www.ubmrotaforte.com info-rotaforte@ubm.com

Inhorgenta Munich Date: 12–15 February 2016 Venue: Messe Munchen, Munich, Germany www.inhorgenta.com info@inhorgenta.de

Gold Silver Watch Date: 16–18 October 2015 Venue: Helsinki Exhibition and Convention Centre, Helsinki, Finland http://www.messukeskus.com info@finnexpo.fi

HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show Date: 3–7 March 2016 Venue: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong SAR www.hktdc.com/fair/hkjewellery-en exhibitions@hktdc.org

Gemworld Munich 2015 Date: 30 October – 1 November 2015 Venue: Munich Trade Fair Center, Munich, Germany munichshow.com exhibitor@munichshow.com Jeweller Expo Ukraine Date: 12–15 November 2015 Venue: Kyiv Expo Plaza Exhibition Center, Kiev, Ukraine www.jewellerexpo.kiev.ua jewel@kmkya.kiev.ua Mineralien Hamburg Date: 4–6 December 2015 Venue: CCH – Congress Center Hamburg, Germany mineralien-hamburg.de lara.meske@hamburg-messe.de

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103

XII International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” Date: 9–12 March 2016 Venue: Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva, Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com ad@ambertrip.com AMBERIF International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 16–19 March 2016 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.mtgsa.com.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl

MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS

MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS in August 2015 – March 2016


FLASHBACKS

FLASHBACKS from the AMBER TRIP “GIPSY PARTY”

Vilija ŠabunkaitėPoškienė

www.balticjewellerynews.com

104


Audrius Lukauskas with wife “A. Lukausko įmonė”

Ulf Erickson with wife, “Ribnitzer BernsteinDrechslerei GmbH”

Krszysztof Lejkowski with wife “Argentyt”

Raimondas Monkevičius with son UAB “Amber Tree”

Ilona Selyankina with husband “Geliotis”

Jean ORSERO

Nina Litvinenko “Goldpack”

Ina Michnovič UAB “Saniston Baltic”

Jekaterina Baratyjanc and Marina Praded AB “ Juvelirprom”

Slawek with Irina and Zhana Brodestky

Urzsula

www.balticjewellerynews.comPyra “Pearl

Vilia and Soren Ferhn

world”

105

FLASHBACKS

Gintaras Jonas Žukauskas with falimy “Silver Amber”


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LET’S PROMOTE AMBER TOGETHER SHARE WITH US YOUR STORY!

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Company name Address (Street, city, country, post code)

Tel. Fax Mob. Tel.

E-mail

Company code

VAT code

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Stand N°

Product index (please, choose): amber jewellery, silver jewellery, gold jewellery, gemstones, semi – precious stones, equipment, others

Name of service

Price without VAT 1m² (EUR)

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UAB “AMBER TRIP” Company code 124044853, VAT code LT240448515 Paplaujos str. 5–7, LT-11342 Vilnius, Lithuania Tel./Fax +370 5 260 84 95 ad@ambertrip.com www.ambertrip.com

(Position, name, last name, signature)

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ct


XIII INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW

“AmberTrip”

9-12 MARCH, 2016 VILNIUS, LITHUANIA

Tel./Fax +370 5 2608495  ad@ambertrip.com  www.ambertrip.com


Photo: Fa. Hans D. Krieger, Idar-Oberstein – Paraiba-Rings

t ve ke ! Sa tic now e li n nt o n co u s di

Meet the international Gemworld in Munich.

Europe‘s top show for gems & jewellery in autumn. www.gemworldmunich.com

Baltic Jewellery News (September 2015) No. 29  

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