E XCLUS I V E M AG A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W EL L ERY B US I N E SS I N T H E BA LT I C S E A R EG I O N
September 2015 (29)
FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!
Jewellery News is a magazine aimed at
the readers from the Baltic Sea region. It is devoted to the
significant issues of that area. Amber is obviously its leading theme – each of the Baltic countries has its contribution in the history of its treatment. The following pages of history are being written each day and it is worth thinking about what is going to be written on them. We say: amber – Lithuanian, Polish, Ukrainian, Russian. We use similar division when talk about the industry. In this way we highlight the differences between the style visible in the products from Lithuania, Poland, Russia or the Ukraine. There is, however, some kind of danger in this kind of division: we tend to forget that amber is predominantly Baltic and we all work together for its brand. Some contribute more than others – it is understandable. Others destroy the work of those more aware industry representatives from Poland, Lithuania, Russia and the Ukraine, even if they had worked only for themselves, still the positive outcomes of their work are beneficial for everyone. The so called “businessmen” in each of these countries are a real
want to buy them, but it is only a matter of time when they
disgrace for the industry. Their actions are calculated in
lose this trust. Everybody wants to make money, many of
order to bring a quick gain, without considering the con-
those “businessmen” at all cost. Who today asks the ques-
sequences in the long term. The consequences that every-
tion what’s next? When will the Chinese market close for
one will bear, as the Baltic amber brand, which has been
amber? After all, it is not just about using the opportunity
promoted very well thanks to the advantageous economic
and make profit as long as the Chinese market absorbs
situation, is endangered again. And if a brand is endan-
amber products, but what to do for it to keep taking the
gered, the profit is endangered as well.
products for as long as possible. Dishonesty surely doesn’t
The Ukrainians are mining their amber like there is
help here. And everybody will be dragged to the bottom.
no tomorrow, only to forestall the competition and the planned reform. They sell it below the market price, hap-
Enjoy the issue!
py that they have made profit after all. Because of their
greed they don’t realise that in this way they take away the chance to develop from other people from their country. The people who want to benefit from the amber boom and hastily invest in treatment workshops, but also the producers from Poland or Lithuania – at the end of the day we all play to the same goal. The Chinese goal. It’s a pity, though, that some of the scored goals are … the suicide ones. There is no other name for an activity such as selling fake products as Baltic amber. The Chinese still trust the producers of amber products and
September 2015 (29)
Increase in the Lithuanian amber mining tax
Two trade fair events in Warsaw in Autumn
Misconceptions about gold price drop
Trends in jewellery shops
Polish Jewellery Report
Amber mining in Poland
Gold Silver Time
Legnica Jewellery Festival Silver
Amberif Design Award
Cosmetics made of natural amber
German Jewellery Report
Jewellery from Centres of this World
The changing German amber market
Danish Jewellery Report
Worldâ€™s breaking amber piece
The Danish amber market
Swedish Jewellery Report
From the swan to magic star
Finnish Jewellery Report
The art of handmaking
Russian Jewellery Report
Amber. The second birth
Personal accessories: risk vs opportunity in Russia
New standard chosen
Estonian Jewellery Report
Balance of fashion, jewellery and art
Latvian Jewellery Report
Art gallery Putti
Lithuanian Jewellery Report
Amber Trip is becoming increasingly popular
Jewellery Contest “Dialogue of Opposites”
Observed trends in the Lithuanian jewellery market
Ukrainian Jewellery Report
Chronicle of the amber war
Chinese Jewellery Report
World’s largest jewellery marketplace
Worldwide Jewellery Report
Price for raw amber by Kaliningrad Amber Combine
The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber (Russian)
The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber (Polish and Ukrainian)
The Worldwide Price for Amber Silver 925 Jewellery
The Worldwide Gold Price
Amber Chamber travels around the world
Amber for your health
Succinic acid biostimulating effect
Hallucinogenic grass found in amber
Choose the best suitable 3D technology
Major Trade Fairs in August 2015 – March 2016
Flashbacks from the Amber Trip Gipsy party
Advertise in “Baltic Jewellery News“
Amber Trip application form
Baltic Jewellery News / September 2015 (29) Paplaujos st. 5–7, LT-11342, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. / Fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org Editor / Anna Sado / E-mail: email@example.com Designer / DANA SMITIENE / Translators / VERTIMU GURU, / CIRCULATION 2 000 Reporter: Poland: J. Magiera / firstname.lastname@example.org, A. Kucharski / email@example.com; A.Sado / firstname.lastname@example.org; Lithuania: V. Zygiene / email@example.com; V. Vaškelytė / firstname.lastname@example.org; O. Guntoriute /email@example.com; Poland: A.Sado / firstname.lastname@example.org; Germany: K. Rudloff / email@example.com; Denmark: E. Johansen / EJ@DenmarkAmber.dk; Finland: A. Altarriba / firstname.lastname@example.org; Belarus: M. Bogdasarov / email@example.com; Russia: R. Walker / firstname.lastname@example.org; I. Klimovich / email@example.com. Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region. Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.
We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. Only with the help of various discussions perspective of the jewellery business of the region can become clear and the magazine – better. Thank you for the cooperation!
Increase in the LITHUANIAN AMBER MINING TAX THIS ANNOUNCEMENT IS PREPARATORY TO THE FORTHCOMING TENDER FOR THE EXPLORATION AND MINING OF LITHUANIAN AMBER RESOURCES.
was proposed that the tax should be 20 % that
According to the Ministry of Environment, tax increase will generate an income of 41 million EUR:
of the amber market value. However, amber market prices in Lithuania have not been reviewed since 1992. In com-
• 70 % of this tax revenue will go to the state
parison, the same tax ranges between 15–25 % in the rest
of the European Union. This is equal to an increase from 20.2 EUR/kg to 280 EUR/kg for the amber fraction of up to
• 20 % for the environmental protection program
40 millimeters, and up to 900 EUR/kg for amber fraction
to the municipality in which the amber will be
greater than 40 millimeters.
After the government meeting Prime Minister Algir-
• 10 % of this tax revenue will be paid to the state
das Butkevičius told reporters that tax increase should not
budget for the Environmental Protection Support
deter potential amber exploration and production bidders:
Programme fund. It will be used to acquire control
“The international demand and price of amber is con-
measures for amber resource extraction and intel-
siderably higher. It is not a cheap commodity.” – said the
ligence, and officials’ wages, who will carry out
Lithuanian prime minister.
monitoring and environmental control. In 2014, several companies requested Lithuanian Geological Survey to allow them to explore and extract amber from Curonian Lagoon Amber Bay. It is the first time amber extraction is going to be allowed from the Lithuanian soil. The change is driven by the decline in Russian production of amber in the Kaliningrad region and increased demand for raw materials in the market. The following arguments have been used to back up the increase of the amber extraction tax: • Raw amber material prices have increased several times over the past two years. • Amber resources are limited (according to the preliminary estimates, there are only 112 tons of amber in Juodkrantė). • Amber extraction will be carried out in the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Orga nization (UNESCO) protected Curonian Spit area. Law amendments should come into force from the beginning of 2016. They still must be approved by the Lithuanian Parliament.
TWO TRADE FAIR EVENTS IN WARSAW IN AUTUMN
quality of the event. The Gold Expo organisers rely mostly on the fact that the exhibitors and buyers have got used to Polish jewellery industry has been
the place. The trade fair Gold Silver Time was held at the
divided. Instead of one edition of trade fairs in autumn,
Expo XXI, situated near the centre of Warsaw, since 2001.
as it has been the case so far, there will be two events to
However, the organisers of the Gold Expo highlight their
choose from this year: Gold Silver Time and Gold Expo.
15 years of experience and recognisable brand that they
Both events will be held in the same city at the same time.
are trying to strengthen additionally in the face of danger.
How is it possible?
There vastly different reactions among the exhibitors.
Polish Trade Fair for Goldsmithery and Jewellery, Gold
Generally, three types of stance are dominant: I’m going to
Expo is the rival event for the International Trade Fair for
one of the two events; I’m going to exhibit at both events;
Jewellery and Watches, Gold Silver Time, which has been
this year I’m not going to exhibit at all. Everybody, includ-
held in Warsaw for 16 years. The idea to create it stems
ing the organisers are hoping that one of the events will
from the disappointment caused by the decision to move
turn out to be better after this year’s edition. However, it is
the Gold Silver Time Trade Fair to a new location at the
mostly the buyers who will decide about it, especially their
International Trade Fair Centre MT Polska in Marsa 56C in
attendance and willingness place orders. At the end of the
Warsaw. The organisers, the International Trade Fair Cen-
day, the crucial part for everyone will be the economic bill.
tre and Fine Arts Workshop, explained that the decision
This situation is not beneficial for anyone, and the
was taken in order to create better conditions for exhibi-
industry is in the worse position due to the choice it is
tions and improve the environment for conducting busi-
faced with. The Polish jewellery industry is too small and
ness. Meanwhile, the manager of the Expo XXI exhibition
still not strong enough economically to cope with two
hall, where the Gold Silver Time trade fair was held until
trade fair events. It is safe to assume, though, that both
2014, used an empty slot in his diary as an excuse to cre-
events will be significantly weaker than the one that has
ate a new event. Two businessmen, former members of
been organised so far. It appears that the Polish cannot
the Programme Board of the Gold Silver Time trade fair,
learn by their mistakes: over 10 years ago they were in a
headed the organisation of the new event.
similar situation, when there were two trade fair events for
Competing for clients, with its crucial stage in April
the jewellery industry held at the same time in Warsaw.
and May, is based mainly on prices. The exhibitors also try
Peace was declared after 3 years when both organisers
to take advantage of the situation and demand as high dis-
were significantly weaker. What is interesting, the gentle-
counts as possible, unfortunately, not taking into account
men who are now heading the Gold Expo team, back then
that low prices are usually directly proportional to the
were supporting the Gold Silver time.
Beautiful piece of gold and amber jewellery by “Italo Import-Export”
MISCONCEPTIONS ABOUT GOLD PRICE DROP On Monday 20 th July the gold price fell sharply, dropping 4.3 % from its Friday closing price. This note explains what happened and counters some misconceptions.
Market Commentary by WORLD GOLD Council
These factors are significant. The spectre of the much anticipated US rate rise has hung over the gold price for some time. And a slowdown in China, the world’s largest gold consumer, is clearly an issue many investors will be
majority of commentators explain
giving thought to.
gold’s recent price fall in the context of four themes:
But this is a partial view. Crucially, it misses some key
• The continued recovery in the US economy, the
drivers of the gold market that we believe are relevant to
associated strengthening dollar, and an expected
rise in interest rates. This, they believe, represents
• Gold is different from commodities. Its demand
major headwinds for gold.
drivers are diverse and it has low correlations with
• A slowdown in China’s gold demand.
commodities and other assets classes.
• The recent broad commodity sell-off, which is itself
• China’s gold demand remains in good health.
a result of US dollar strength and concerns over
Demand may have eased since the highs of 2013,
China’s economic growth.
but its growth trend is intact. Q1 2015 was the
• And in the background, political tensions have
fourth best quarter on record and the People’s
eased, as illustrated by the tentative resolution of a
Bank of China has increased its gold reserves by
57 % since 2009.
SPECULATIVE TRADING IN THIN MARKETS: A COMMON TRADE IN RECENT YEARS
• Headwinds such as the strong dollar and an expectation of US rate rises are probably overstated. It
The recent price fall, in common with similar price
rise were not already factored into the gold price.
action in the past few years, was triggered by isolated
And despite the US dollar index rising by 12.5 % in
trades. These trades are not representative of the broader
2014, the US dollar gold price was flat.
supply and demand dynamics. In thin trading conditions, these actions have a signifi-
RECENT PRICE FALLS – WHAT HAPPENED?
cant impact beyond the relative scale/volume of any cor-
On Monday 20th July 2015, the gold price fell sharply
responding net flows; they are often reflective of and can
during Asian trading hours. The price declined from a clos-
amplify capital market sentiment in the west. But although
ing price of US$1,134.14/oz on Friday, to an intra-day low
these traders provide a depth of liquidity in the market,
of US$1,086.18/oz, a 4.3 % fall. It quickly rebounded to
they are not the key buyers of gold. In our view, they do
stabilise a little above US$1,100/oz.
not shape demand over the longer term. These types of
This fall was precipitated by significant trades on
large gold trades have been a characteristic of COMEX in
the Globex platform on COMEX and the Shanghai Gold
the past, but they are less typical on the SGE, where trad-
Exchange (SGE). Trading data reveals that 4.7 tonnes (t)
ing volumes are lower, albeit increasing quickly. There has
was off-loaded on the SGE at 2.29am BST – this is an
been some speculation as to who made the trade on the
exceptionally large amount in a short space of time. Nor-
SGE. The Financial Times drew parallels with similar trades
mally little more than 40t trades in a day. (To put this in
in other metals in China recently, such as nickel and cop-
context, the average trade size per minute from July 17 to
July 22 is only 96 kg.) At around the same time volumes
Nevertheless, short-term speculative transactions,
spiked on COMEX. Both trades were made during periods
divorced from physical delivery and amplified by leverage,
of low market liquidity (chart 1).
are likely to remain centred on COMEX, rather than on
The price has seen further, less dramatic, declines since
exchanges that have been developed to facilitate wider
Monday. With trading volumes thin, and market sentiment
access to physical gold, such as the SGE.
for gold at low levels, the price has now fallen below the US$1,100/oz level. This is the lowest price level since Q1 2010.
A WIDER PERSPECTIVE
CHART 1.SELL ORDERS IN CHINA AND US TRIGGERED THE PRICE FALL
GOLD AND THE BROADER COMMODITIES COMPLEX
Trading volumes on COMEX and the SGE around sharp price decline
“The Bloomberg Commodities Index dropped to a
13-year low on Monday 20 July, weaker than after the
banking meltdown of 2008 and the euro-zone crisis of
2012... Gold, the most heavilyweighted commodity in the
index, is the latest to get hit hard, socked by a stronger
dollar and concern about a slowdown in China.” Bloomb-
This is a perfectly valid statement, but we believe it is
erg, 21 June 2015 simplistic. By lumping gold in with other commodities it
Active Gold Future (COMEX)
glosses over what makes gold different, and from an inves-
tors perspective, relevant. Gold is unique in the diversity of its demand drivers.
Au T+D Gold (SGE, rhs)
Gold is used in:
Price declined from around US$1, 130/oz to jusi US$1, 110 between 02:28 and 02:30 (reaching intraday low of US$1, 086/oz)
• electronics and cutting-edge technology; • in jewellery, as a luxury good and of cultural and symbolic value; and
Note: Times are British Summer Time Source: Bloomberg, World Gold Council
• as money and an insurance asset.
would be surprising if expectations of a US rate
These drivers of demand respond differently to differ-
gold’s 1-year annualised daily return volatility is significant-
ent economic conditions. Heightened systemic risk typi-
ly lower than the S&P GSCI.
cally boosts gold’s role as an insurance asset. Economic than a simple commodity. Gold demand in many key coun-
CHINA’S GOLD DEMAND MAY HAVE EASED, BUT IT REMAINS IN GOOD HEALTH
tries, including China, is not directly related to industrial
While gold demand may be down year-on-year, the
consumption which drives demand for other commodi-
growth trend is still strongly positive. Although China’s
ties. It cannot be directly linked to a country’s pattern
jewellery demand in Q1 2015 was down from the record
of consumption of commodities, such as nickel, copper,
level in Q1 last year, it was 27% higher than its 5-year
sugar or livestock. It should not be a surprise that over the
average. And consumer demand – jewellery plus bar and
longer-term gold’s performance frequently diverges from
coins – in Q1 2015 was the fourth best quarter on record,
the broader commodities complex. For example, look-
surpassed only by the surge in demand triggered by the
ing at the performance of the Bloomberg Commodities
price fall in 2013.
growth boosts jewellery demand. This makes if far more
Index since 2000, the index is broadly flat, while gold is up
Although China is the world largest gold consumer
75%, even at today’s prices. And although the gold price
and producer, it is still a relatively young gold market. Pri-
is down year-to-date, it has still outperformed a range of
vate ownership of gold investment products was illegal
commodities indices, including the Bloomberg Commodi-
until 2002. Since then Chinese investors have purchased
ties Index (chart 2).
in excess of 1,530 t of bars and coins, worth US$55bn at today’s prices – this is equivalent to what all investors hold through gold-backed ETFs worldwide. Over the same peri-
CHART 2: GOLD HAS OUTPERFORMED THE
od China’s consumers bought 5,282 t of gold jewellery,
worth US$189bn. Chinese demand for gold is driven by a diverse range of factors, certainly more than are captured by top-level
Gold vs the commodities complex US$/oz
macro-economic indicators. And certainly more diverse
than what drives demand for commodities.
Beyond economic growth, gold is embedded in China’s
culture. Chinese New Year and weddings are key events in
China’s gold consumption. In addition, China’s authorities
have developed a range of pro-gold policies, from legal-
ising bar and coin demand in 2002 through to opening
up its gold market via the SGE International Board in the
Shanghai Free Trade Zone in 2014.
THE PEOPLE’S BANK OF CHINA (PBOC) INCREASING ITS GOLD RESERVES IS POSITIVE FOR THE GOLD MARKET
Bloomberg Commodity Index
Source: Bloomberg, World Gold Council Gold’s correlation with other assets is important too. Its low level of correlation with many other assets makes it a good asset for investors to hold in their portfolio.
The central bank’s recent announcement that it had increased its gold reserves from 1,054, to 1,658 t – a 57 % increase – was seen by many market commentators as disappointing.
While there will be times when gold moves in tandem with the commodity complex, its longer term correlation is
This, we feel, is based on misperceptions and false
far weaker than many suppose. Gold and the Bloomberg
expectations. The announcement was broadly in line with
Commodity Index exhibit a correlation coefficient of less
our understanding of the situation in China. Indeed, in our
than 40% over the past 20 years and gold’s correlation
briefing note, Understanding China’s Gold Market, from
with the S&P GS Commodity Index (GSCI) is less than 30%.
August 2014, we stated that, “...if the PBoC makes an
Similarly, gold’s diverse spread of demand drivers mean its
announcement its gold holdings will have increased by at
volatility is lower than most commodities. For example,
least 500 t.”
suggests the US rate increases will be moderate and real rates will be below 4 % for some time.
how China, along with other central banks, views gold as
In addition, markets are forward-looking and the
a key reserve asset as it continues to seek diversification
forthcoming rate rise has been well flagged. It
away from the US dollar. A key challenge with official sec-
would be surprising if expectations of US rate rise
tor purchases, especially in China, is that they may occur
were not already factored into the gold price.
in a more opaque form than is typical elsewhere. Not only
THE INVESTMENT CASE FOR GOLD REMAINS INTACT
do entities other than the PBoC make ‘sovereign’ gold purchases but the PBoC, in its recent statement, repeated its position that, in addition to its direct holdings, China
Crucially, the long-term investment case for gold is
‘holds gold through its people’.
not based on short-term price movements. Gold plays a more important role in a portfolio. Its low correlation with
GOLD, THE US RECOVERY AND MACRO HEADWINDS
many other assets – for example, its 10 year correlation
US interest rates and the US dollar are the primary
diversify a portfolio. New Frontier Advisor’s analysis sug-
points of reference for many capital market participants
gests that the optimal allocation to gold in a portfolio is
and trading houses in parts of Europe and the US. While
between 2–10 %, depending on the investors’ risk toler-
increases or the expectation of increases in both real
ance. Although vitally important for investors, it is often
rates and the dollar’s value represent headwinds for gold,
overlooked by many commentators. And our analysis
these factors are not as uniformly negative as are often
shows that this holds true even in periods when the dollar
strengthens. In our view, a well constructed strategic allo-
with the S&P500 is -0.1 % – makes it a good investment to
• Gold and the US dollar. The belief that a stronger
cation does not need to be constantly adjusted.
dollar is bad for gold came to the fore in the 1980s and 1990s. We agree it is a headwind, but we
IMMEDIATE RESPONSE OF PHYSICAL MARKETS
believe the relationship between gold and the dol-
Falls in the gold price are not universally perceived
lar has changed.
as negative. US dollar price moves have translated into
During the 1980s and 1990s the market fundamen-
price falls in many price sensitive markets: -3.2 % in India,
tals were quite different to today. Mine production
-3.6 % in China, and -1.2 % in Turkey. Here, consumers
was growing strongly and central banks were sell-
will view lower prices as a buying opportunity.
ing gold. Supply was high and rising. Today, mine
As a result, despite the summer months being a tradi-
production is expected to plateau in 2015 and tail
tional quiet period, retailers in these price sensitive markets
off thereafter. Central banks are overwhelmingly
have seen an uptick in consumer interest. The premium in
net buyers. And the shape of demand has changed
Turkey edged up to US$2/oz. Consumer interest in India
too. Gold demand is Asian-centric. India and China
has increased too. While the monsoon season is usually a
alone account for 42 % of total gold demand and
very quiet period for Indian gold demand, this bodes well
52 % of consumer demand.
for the festive season beginning in September. And there
To illustrate the point that the relationship between
are been a myriad of articles reporting the an uptick in
the US dollar and gold may have changed, in 2014
consumer demand in the Middle East – having been in the
the US dollar index strengthened 12.5 % while the
doldrums for some time, lower prices have sparked a wave
US dollar gold price was flat.
• Gold and interest rates. It is true that higher real For more information:
interest rates raise the opportunity cost for inves-
tors holding gold. But our analysis of the gold price and previous rate conditions found gold may perform reasonably well in a positive rate environment. Our analysis indicates that gold is only negatively affected when real rates nudge higher than 4 %. The current outlook
We believe the PBoC’s confirmation of its revised gold holdings is supportive for the gold market. It reiterates
TRENDS in jewellery shops As one may notice, during the last years in the jewellery industry, the main trend was expressed in the form of very decorative display stands, packages and other such accessories. By Justyna MAGIERA
jewellery stores took part in a com-
petition of fancy packages, unconventional display stands in the shop window, etc. The main elements were, apart from increasingly warmer and expressive structure of fab-
the package. No matter the location, the embellishments
rics, the additional ornaments. As far as the colours are
were always there.
concerned, the most popular were red, brown and vari-
For some time we have observed a change in trends
ous shades of golden and silver. Sparkling and patterned
and this ornaments are slowly becoming outfashioned.
structure of a fabric was a must. The ornament varied from
The trends in jewellery industry have made a full circle, as
little bows, rubbers, ribbons to be tied by the customer, up
they often do in fashion. At present, the popularity was
to butterflies, flowers or other patterns printed on top of
regained by the simple and natural accessories without
unnecessary ornaments. Simple but elegant shapes, uniform colours and top quality materials are now the main features of the most fashionable packages and display stands. In display stands and in packages the basic colours are black, white, various shades of beige or gray. Any intense colour will only be used as a minor accent. All that results from the fact that until recently most of the jewellery companies was anonymous, i.e. they didn't
we are changing ...
have their own brand. An elaborate package or original display stand were the only way to distinguish oneself from the competition. Nowadays most of the companies operates under their own brand and the display stands or packages have lost their distinctive function. Today they should merely be a neutral background, a subtle means of brand promotion. They cannot be garish, too expressive or too unusual. On the contrary, they should be subdued, neutral and simple, and the only ornament should be the company's logo, clear and visible.
Such solutions are now accessible to all companies, even the smallest ones. Larger companies have made one step further â€“ not only they add their logo onto accessories available on the market, but also they create their own accessories. They decide on the shape, colours and dimensions, taking all and any detail into consideration, as all such details should be coherent and premeditated. Independently of the chosen option, we should always keep in mind that nothing will advertise our company better than top quality of the finished product. That applies above all to the offered products. However all the accessories used in sales are also of great significance: starting from packages and jewellery bags, through trays, busts and other display stands, up to all types of jewellery furniture. So we should always remember to choose only such a supplier of all mentioned accessories, who will provide only top quality products.
furniture packaging displays P.A.T. ul. LegionĂłw 100 42-200 CzÄ™stochowa, Poland tel. +48 34 360 23 81 email: firstname.lastname@example.org
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
AMBER MINING in Poland By Anna SADO
deposited at relatively small depths. Krzysztof Twardowski, who deals with searching for and mining amber for over 20 years, estimates that currently there are about 20 teams increased demand for
actively digging in Pomerania, who mine up
amber on international markets, especially
to 2.5 tons of amber per month. Their num-
in China, has resulted in increased interest in
ber has gone up especially in the last year, due
the topic of local deposits and their mining
to the increased demand for the raw material.
in Poland. The issue of deposits in Górka Lubartowska in the Lubelskie Region has been the most emotive for a long time. There is meant to be over 1,000 tons of amber deposited there. These estimates date back to the 1980s., thus
The statistics of the Marshall’s Office Anna SADO
seem to confirm that tendency. They indicate
The author is a journalist specialising in jewellery related topics and an editor of the Amber Portal amber.com.pl
that in 2013 about 635 kg of raw material was mined – the highest amount since 2005, and more than in 2014. Though, the statistics don’t reflect the overall mining scale, as the majority of the teams searching for amber
the existing documentation is by far not sufficient to launch mining. In December 2014 the Marshall’s
don’t register the raw material that they find at all, or
Office announced a tender for area reckoning and search-
declare the amounts that are too small to justify an applica-
ing for amber deposits. The winner was a Lithuanian com-
tion for a mining licence. However, the number of licences
pany who offered a very high lease rate – 8,000 PLN for
for area reckoning and amber mining leaves no room for
each hectare of the area, which comprises nearly 80 hec-
interpretation: it has increased from 10 granted in 2011, to
tares. The problem is that the company has not turned up
nearly 60 currently. It resulted from the change in geologi-
to sing the contract, and the Marshall’s Office doesn’t want
cal law regulation in 2011, according to which it is neces-
to sign a contract with the runner up bidder (who offered
sary to apply for an amber mining licence, however area
a significantly lower rate: 1560 PLN/ha), nor has it prepared
reckoning and searching for amber requires only a project
a new tender.
of geological works accepted by an appropriate Marshall’s
There is another deposit located in the Lubelskie
Office. Currently, only one licence, granted in 2007, is valid.
Region, in the so-called Parczew Delta, whose deposits are
It was granted to a company which searches for granite in
estimated to be 256 tons. Last year, there were heated dis-
the areas where amber is an accompanying mineral (from
cussions about potential cooperation between Parczew and
January to March 2015, 80 kilo of amber was mined there).
Gdańsk. The plans included conducting professional train-
It is estimated that the Polish jewellery industry needs
ing in basic amber treatment for the local employees, so
about 150 tons of the raw material of jewellery quality per
as the area could become more than a raw material supply
year. National mining cannot satisfy it, even including fish-
base for the Pomerania, however after the local elections in
ing on beaches and illegal mining (especially considering
November 2014 the subject has not been mentioned.
that not all of that material ends up on the Polish market).
Therefore, the Pomerania Region remains the main raw
Even though Polish companies are supplied with the raw
material supply base for the Polish amber producers. Mining
material from Russia and Ukraine, they still complain about
is quite dispersed there and takes place mainly on privately
the insufficient amount of it, especially when it comes to
owned land. The rich deposits located in the Kashubian
the high quality material. This leads to the increased inter-
Lake District, estimated to have 640 tons of amber, is not
est in mining the local deposits, both by the amber produc-
mined – mainly due to the fact that the deposits are located
ers and the local authorities.
at considerable depths, but also because the documenta-
In June 2014 a conference organised from the Pomeranian voivodeship Marshall’s initiative was held in Gdańsk.
tion is insufficient. However, there are many places with easy access,
Representatives of government administration and local
although not as rich in raw material, where amber is
authorities discussed the most important issues of the
SEARCHING FOR AMBER DEPOSITS BETWEEN 2000 AND 2015 Number of submitted applications
60 50 40 30 20 10 0
AMBER MINING BETWEEN 2005 AND 2014 kg
700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
amber industry with its representatives. The problems included lack of access to amber deposits, and arduous and time consuming administrative procedures of granting access to city plots in order to search for amber, growing problem of illegal amber mining (loss of equipment and 500 PLN fine is not a sufficient means of prevention), lack of detailed geological studies that would encourage the potential private investors to take up searching for amber. The discussion is not easy, as both groups have conflicting interests. Bringing back a combined licence for searching for amber and its mining, including amber in the mining law, changing the regulations in order to tighten punishment for illegal mining – these are only some of the demands that were meant to be submitted to the Ministers of Economy and Justice. What are the chances for their realisation? A lot depends on the results of the Polish parliamentary elections that will take place in autumn. However, the most important thing is for the authorities and amber producers to be willing to continue their discussions, as well as the integration of the entire amber circle in order to speak in the same, strong voice about the important issues.
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
GOLD SILVER TIME – New Opportunities for Development
Report by GOLD SILVER TIME Press Office
16th Gold Silver Time Fair will take
place at a new venue–the MT Polska Exhibition and Congress Centre in ul. Marsa 56C, Warsaw. There are many
agenda tailor-made to suit the needs of its participants.
reasons that make coming to GST worthwhile.
GST’s competitions are among its biggest attractions: the
The new venue offers an array of advantages, like
PRESENTATIONS Open Art Jewellery Competition we have
over 10,000 m of exhibition space under one roof in a
held for 15 years in partnership with the STFZ Goldsmith-
state-of-the-art centre adapted to the needs of the jewel-
ing Artists’ Association and the brand new Master of Gold,
lery and watch industry, 4000 m of outdoor space and
Silver, Time and 3D Space, in partnership with the Polish
1200 m2 of conference and office space, ground-level and
Handicraft Guild. GST will also be accompanied by exhibi-
underground parking for 600 automobiles–GST’s former
tions of: Amber in Folk Art by the PAS Museum of the
location lacked such infrastructure which made it uncom-
Earth and Silver, the annual post-competition presentation
fortable for the growing fair for several years now. The
of contemporary jewellery art (this year’s subject: Borders)
organisers have also introduced a number of solutions to
organised by the Art Gallery in Legnica.
improve the organisation and logistics and make doing
The Gold Silver Time International Jewellery and Watch
business easier, including a new buyer registration system,
Fair is Poland’s biggest autumn jewellery and watch show.
meeting points and a shuttle bus. The Design Gallery, a
The abundant, 15-year experience of the MCT Interna-
place that is a veritable Mecca for art and designer jewel-
tional Fair Centre, GST’s organiser, its excellent knowledge
lery lovers from all over the world, is getting a new look.
of the industry’s needs and the highly-professional GST
Art and designer jewellery has been one of Gold Silver
team all serve to consolidate the show’s standing. This year
Time’s calling cards for years as well as for Poland abroad.
the organiser also expects some 6000 visitors (including
Just like amber jewellery: with the growing demand for
non-industry visitors for whom the show will be open on
ornaments with the “Baltic gold,” the most recent editions
3 October) and about 300 exhibitors (the list is not yet
of the Warsaw show have seen an increas-
closed, those interested can apply to:
ing number of representatives from this
sector whose range includes both small silver and amber jewellery and the high-
16th GOLD SILVER TIME International
est quality amber gemstones in filigree
Jewellery and Watch Fair
gold settings. Other, sectors regularly
1–3 October 2015
represented at GST include gold, silver
MT Polska Exhibition and Congress
and fashion jewellery, precious stones and
Centre, ul. Marsa 56C, Warsaw
gemstones, machines and tools, packag-
To find out more about exhibition
ing and display components.
terms and conditions, how to get
strengths is its professional framework
Jewellery by Jacek BYCZEWSKI
there and the GST agenda, go to: www.zlotosrebroczas.com
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
while last day (Saturday, 13.06) was also open to general public. Already on the first day the buyers turned up in great numbers and made exhibitors busy all they long. The biggest number of buyers was noted on the first two days. In total, during all three days of the fair, the number of visitors has increased by 25 %,compared with last year and so far is a record number. There was also noted a significant increase in the number of foreign guests – mainly from Slovakia, Hungary and China. The survey conducted during the exhibition shows that 90 % of visitors is convinced that they would visit the fair also next year. This
is an obvious signal that Jubinale met the expectations of buyers and gives hope that the expansion of Jubinale will continue in the coming years. Traditionally, at the end of the first day of Jubinale
Report by JUBINALE Press Office
(06.11.2015) exhibitors attended Exhibitors Evening, where they had the opportunity to make new contacts,
The eighth edition of Summer Jewellery and
meet friends from the industry and exchange experiences
Watches Trade Fair Jubinale, which was held on
in relaxed atmosphere and with a glass of wine. The event
11–13.06.2015, once again became the main meeting
was held at the Polish Aviation Museum, which was wel-
point for the jewelery industry before the summer season
comed with a great enthusiasm.
in Central Europe and turned Krakow into the capital of
During the gala dinner, once again the three statuettes
jewellery. Due to the the exhibition being held on the larger
of “Gem of Jubinale” were awarded by the Organizer to
hall of EXPO Krakow fairgrounds (area of 5.000 m2), near-
Exhibitors, who have supported Jubinale in a special way.
ly 200 exhibitors from Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Czech
This year’s statuettes went to “Asimex Plus”, “Robis” and
Republic, Spain, Lithuania, Germany, Poland, Portugal, Tur-
the Portuguese association “AORP”. The second year on the new fairgrounds of EXPO
key, Ukraine and Italy could take part in this unique event. The offer presented at Jubinale covered almost all
Kraków strengthened everyone’s belief that Jubina-
sectors of the jewelery and watch industry. The products
le has a huge potential for further development and
offered by Jubinale exhibitors came from different parts of
the world, which gave the buyers an opportunity to find
The dynamic development of the exhibition, constantly
exceptional collections of different kinds. The interna-
growing number of exhibitors, a record number of buy-
tionality of Jubinale becomes its strong side and pro-
ers from Poland and further, significant increase in the
vides the buyers with the opportunity to establish
number of visitors from abroad are the result of long-term
contacts on an international scale, which is extremely
efforts of both, the Organizer and Exhibitors. Thanks to
important in times of strong competition at every level.
those efforts, we have created an exhibition, which has
In addition to companies and designers representing a
become an important event for professionals not only
trade offer, Jubinale was attended by the Trade Patrons of
from Poland but also from many neighbouring countries.
Jubinale – The International Amber Association, The
We believe that future editions of Jubinale will bring new
Association of Jewellery Experts and Polish Craft Associa-
records, and its undoubted growth will remain at a similar
tion, who willingly gave free advices on their stands. There
level for many years.
were also present the representatives of other, highly
If you would like regularly see the important informa-
respected industry organizations, such as Gallery of Art in
tion about Jubinale, like us on Facebook, were we regularly
Legnica, the School of Fine Arts in Czestochowa, AORP –
publish news about the fair, the profiles of artists and offer
Jewellery and Watchmaking Assosiation of Portugal and
other organizers of Polish and foreign jewellery exhibitions.
The next edition of Summer Jewellery and Watches Trade Fair JUBINALE will take place on 2–4.06–2016.
The first two days of the exhibition (Thursday 11.06 and Friday 12.06) were open only to jewellery industry,
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Jewellery Festival SILVER Report by LEGNICA Press Office
entitled “Boundaries of the Global Art”, which has been a fellow part of the Festival for an intermittent 16 years. edition of
That very session hosted interesting presentations of the
the Legnica Jewellery Festival SILVER.
theorists and practitioners, among others: Tasso Mattar,
of June ended the 36
This year’s edition was really impressive.
Eva Burton, Andi Gut, and Marta Hryc. Moreover, the pro-
The culmination of the Festival, which took place on the
gramme of the Festival was enriched by the “Silver Screen”
15 and 16 of May, traditionally attracted a multitude of
series’ projections, by a jazz concert or by the BOUNDA-
Polish and foreign guests – the artists, the people of the
RIES photo contest. In the city, the Festival was being fore-
branch, along with the fans of the avantgarde jewellery.
told by happenings of visual art. It was the latter events
During the “silver” weekend the openings of 24 exhibi-
that stood behind the embellishing of the marketplace’s
tions took place, supported by the accompanying events,
giant stony ring with a “diamond”, and behind the em-
amongst which it is worth to mention a science session,
ploying of the barricade tape to blaze the trail between the
Jarosław WESTERMARK – 1st Award
Bogumiła, Andrzej ADAMSCY – 1st Award
Competition BOUNDARIES. The artists were awarded with
convenience – by border poles.
the prizes of the total value that exceeded 40 thousand
The crowded openings of the avant-garde jewellery
zloty, including also 4.5 kg of the silver granules founded
exhibitions were honoured by the presence of authors and
by KGHM. This year’s theme of the competition, BOUNDA-
curators of the exhibitions from Poland, Italy, Spain, Ger-
RIES, had attracted the record high number of artists (337
many, Belgium, Lithuania, Argentina and South Korea. In
designers from 42 countries). The Grand Prix had been split
the cycle: „About the Artist” were presented exhibitions
into two, as it was given, on the one hand, to the duet of
of: Ruudt Peters, Rüdiger Lorenzen,
Polish designers: Bogumiła and
Andi Gut, Frieda Dörfer, Katrin Feul-
Andrzej Adamski, and, on the
ner, Eunmi Chun, Mia Kwon, Elisa-
other hand, to Jarosław Wester-
betta Duprè, Ewa Effenberg, Marta
mark. The second award went to
Hryc and Anna Król. There were also
Alexander Blank (Germany) and
presented international group exhi-
Mireia Calaf Mensa (Spain). Jing
bitions: Amber Chamber – curated
Yang (China) received Award of
by Heidemarie Herb, Sur o no Sur –
the Gallery of Art in Legnica and
Argentinian jewellery – curated by
Organizers’ Special Award went
Eva Burton, Preziosa Young – curat-
to Katja Köditz (Germany). The
ed by Gio Carbone, Gdańsk Baltic
awards’ ceremony evoked a true
Amber Biennale – curated by Wim
climax of emotions, hence the
names of the winners had not Awards
Fijałkowski, Amberif Design Award curated by Ewa Rachoń and Silver
been previously known. Among the other festive
Schools: Hochschule Wiesmar and Vilnius Academy of
moments, it is worthwhile to reminisce the act of award-
Arts. In the cycle DEBUTS we could saw works of Maria
ing The Gallery of Art with the gilded statuette of David.
Antonina Łęcicka oraz Karolina Szymanowska. Among
That was done by Tasso Mattar, a merited jeweller and
group exhibition of Polish artists is worth to mention
the author of that statuette which, for 30 years, has been
about: 25 for 25. Jewellery of the time of freedom, Polish
given away to honour people and institutions working for
Goldsmiths Groups, 25 Years of STFZ. and We from Jed-
the benefit of the contemporary jewellery. Yet another
wabne curated by Piotr Rybaczek from La Basílica Galería.
surprise was the birthday cake, handed to the numerously
Exhibitions of jewellery were accompanied by film shows
gathered designers, representing Goldsmithing Artists’
of Katja Köditz and Pangenerator.
Association (STFZ). The latter event took place at the open-
The main event of the Festival was announcement
ing of the exhibition that celebrated STFZ’s 25th anniver-
of the results of the 24 Legnica International Jewellery
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
venues of exhibition, curiously marked – for the spectators’
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Amberif Design Award
Report by AMBERIF Press Office
very year Amberif organises “Amberif Design
exclusivity and its shapeability stimulated makers to pro-
Award” to promote creative thinking and new
vide form and material to their ideas, desires and values.
ideas in the design of amber art jewellery and
They created non-perishable symbols to reveal their inner
to develop the knowledge about Baltic amber’s proper-
world. Deciphering the early amber jewellery today we are
ties and nature. This year the competition’s subject was
traced back to our historic roots and the provenance of our
“Mimesis”. Barbara Schmidt – Competition Curator
values. Taking an even closer look we recognise that hu-
describes the subject: “Aristoteles described it as “Mime-
man values have hardly changed within epochs: They are
sis“: the attempt to undisclose the very basics and forces
as elemental as the natural amber.”
which move us all. Since more than 100 000 years men and women make and wear jewellery. Was the first piece
THE MEMBERS OF JURY:
a love gift, a reconfirmation for peace, a healing media, a
Ms. Roberta BERNABEI – UK
group marker, a memorable, an object for rituals, a media
Ms. Jacqueline RYAN – Italy
for exchange, or a sign for the own individuality and en-
Ms. Natalia HATALSKA – Poland
hancement of the own beauty? Very early natural material
Mr. Tanel VEENRE – Estonia
like amber has been used. Its inspiring colour spectrum, its
Mr. Marcin ZAREMSKI – Poland
THE GRAND PRIZE
THE AMBER PRIZE
sponsored by Mr Paweł Adamowicz,
sponsored by the International Amber Association
the Mayor of the City of Gdańsk PLN 10,000:
1 kg of amber :
Marta RŻANEK, Łódź, Poland
Adriana LISOWSKA, Gdynia, Poland
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT THE SILVER PRIZE sponsored by the KGHM Polska Miedź S.A. 1 kg of silver:
Andrzej COFTA, Gdańsk, Poland
THE JURY DECIDED TO AWARD THREE HONORARY MENTIONS TO THE ENTRIES WHICH BEST EVOKE WHAT THE TOPIC OF MIMESIS BRINGS TO MIND:
Marta RŻANEK, Łódź, Poland Michał M.B. FATYGA, Jantar, Poland Ewa ŚLIWIŃSKA, Poznań, Poland
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
THE FAITH HAS SURVIVED AGES AND NOWADAYS,
amber is still valued in complementary medicine in many parts of the world
COSMETICS MADE Report by SUCCINITE Press Office
of natural amber
deeply rooted customers’ faith in the efficiency of natural ingredients – in this case amber which is ascribed to many
ecently, many cosmetics’ manufacturers used
positive features - mainly moisturizing, toning and smooth-
amber. In the most of cases, cosmetics base on
ing. Unfortunately, as it results from research conducted
extracts which contain traces of amber or on the
by Wyższa Szkoła Zawodowa Kosmetyki i Pielęgnacji
ones which do not contain it at all - contrary to young
Zdrowia in collaboration with Laboratory of Technological
Polish brand Succinite which prides on the fact of using
Processes (LPT) Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University
mostly natural ingredients.
of Technology, many of used amber extracts contain
Medicinal properties of amber have been known for
traces of amber, which means that it is not active
ages. In folk medicine it was used as snake oil: as of amber
ingredient effectively but only marketing one in
liqueur working on many afflictions, through amber beads
order to attract customers’ attention.
curing thyroid and strep throat, unto censing with smoke in order to exorcize the dead hand. Admittedly, the science does not confirm any medical properties of amber but there is also no reason to stop believing in folk medicine’s wisdom. Especially that the faith has survived ages and nowadays, amber is still valued in complementary medicine in many parts of the world. In the recent years, amber has been discovered by cosmetic’s manufacturers such as Formona, Bielenda but also Stenders, in order to sell it on all markets of the world successfully. One of the reasons of their commercial success is
amber – herbal ointment, face and body gel, body lotion and hair mask (those three last are this year newcomers).
declares, amber, as far as possible, is bought from local
There is also amber oil in the company’s offer – perfect
Baltic fishermen. It is cleaned and stone-grounded. Nat-
mainly for bites and rheumatics and amber incense which
ural ingredients in cosmetics compose more than 95 %
improves ion structure of air and reduces fatigue.
and synthetic ones are used only when they do not have
In the cream, micronized amber has been connected
any natural equivalents. ”We use only high value ingredi-
with such active ingredients as argan oil, hyaluronic acid
ents because it is important to us. Accordingly, we launch
and vitamin E, thanks to which skin is highlighted and
onto the market only those cosmetics which will be able
smooth and wrinkles less visible. On the other hand, the
to fulfil demanding customers’ excpectations.” – explains
amber ointment contains –except even 10% of amber –
Max Kwiatkowski, generator of the Succinite brand and
herbs from Polish meadows: buckeye, arnica, thyme and
open last year private Museum of Amber in Jarosławiec.
sea-buckthorn, which provides analgesic and demulcent
The generator of his own has big demands when it comes
features, as well as better blood supply of muscles and
to his products: hair shampoo did not have its own mar-
joints. In gel and lotion, additional ingredients are algae
ket premiere because it was “not perfect enough”. Fans
and collagen, which provide not only the feeling of fresh-
of Succinite’s cosmetics will have to wait for it until June
ness but also moisturize and smooth.
2016. The quality is the most important thing.
Do those cosmetics work? Professional research made
This is why – although the brand exists more than a
on the representative group of women will be delegated
year – there is only 5 cosmetic products on the market
this year. Meanwhile, about cosmetics’ efficiency evinces
at the moment: rejuvenating cream with amber acid,
information from happy users.
In the recent years, amber has been discovered by cosmetic’s manufacturers such
AS FORMONA, BIELENDA BUT ALSO STENDERS, IN ORDER TO SELL IT ON ALL MARKETS OF THE WORLD SUCCESSFULLY
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
It is differently in case of Succinite’s cosmetics in which only natural amber is used. As the manufacturer
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
AMABERMART – opens autumn seazon REPLENISH YOUR STOCK! To conclude the Fair, on Saturday you are welcome to participate in the art previews and side events to the 6th edition of the Mariacka Street Festival, brought to you in partnership with the International Amber Association, cultural institutions and the galleries, which Gdańsk’s iconic amber street is famous for. This time, the celebration’s theme is “Mariacka Full of Dreams”.
AMBERMART is open to the general public.
WE LOOK FORWARD TO HAVING YOU!
ore than 200 companies from Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, Germany and Italy have announced
their participation in AMBERMART, including
REPUBLIC OF POLAND
Baltic amber jewellery manufacturers and suppliers of col-
EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Warsaw Official language Polish Currency Złoty (PLN) Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 312 685 km2 Population (2014) 38 483 957 Latvia Government Parliamentary republic President Bronisław Komorowski Prime Minister Ewa Kopacz Lithuania GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 23 568 EUR Ethnic groups (2011) 93.52 % Polish Belarus 1.09 % Silesian POLAND Largest cities (2013) Warsaw 1 715 518 Krakov 760 700 Ukraine Lodz 718 960
oured gemstones. Last year’s edition of AMBERMART was attended by more than 3,000 visitors from 37 countries. The event’s product range covers amber jewellery, silver and gold jewellery with gemstones, designer and avantgarde jewellery, pearls, semi-finished amber products, Tiffany-style lamps, functional art and decorative items. AMBERMART is accompanied by the Art Gallery, the Designers’ Gallery, organised in partnership with the STFZ Goldsmithing Artists’ Association, along with an exhibition of reference fossil resin samples and imitations from Gabriela Gierłowska’s collection. It is also worthwhile taking part in the Understanding Amber Training Course, conducted by Vanessa Paterson from the Scottish Gemmological Association.
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
BRIGHT PROSPECTS for autumn Report by GEMWORLD MUNICH Press Office
to the traditional first-class range of rough and polished gemstones, it is the jewellery section that has grown the
The Gemworld Munich, which will take place
most, according to Keilmann. Whether designer jewellery,
from 30 October to 1 November, is once
exclusive unique items or an impressive range of silver jew-
again shaping up to be this year’s highlight
ellery, trade visitors can look forward to a large selection
of European autumn trade fairs. Organisers
and perfect conditions during their visit.
report an extremely positive response in terms of registrations received, as well as numerous
FIRST PORT OF CALL FOR UNIQUE GEMSTONES
new international exhibitors. Attention
The Gemworld Munich has developed from a virtual
will also shift to young talent with the new
unknown into one of the most important international
“Young Designers” section.
sales platforms for gemstones. This is evident not only by
impressive names such as Paul Wild, Henn or Sara Gems from New York, who have exhibited there for years, but also by its ability to attract small, yet high-quality distributors and mine owners from countries with natural treasures. second half of the year is almost upon
Whether from Brazil, Sri Lanka, Mozambique or the moun-
us, and with it looms one of the largest autumn trade fairs
tainous regions of Pakistan, India and Afghanistan: trade
on the horizon. In addition to established regular exhibi-
visitors at the Gemworld Munich have the opportunity to
tors, organisers have confirmed that this year will also fea-
meet the very people who bring us these precious stones,
ture many new companies in Munich. “By the end of April,
with their fascinating stories to tell about them. This is valu-
the amount of applications had already significantly sur-
able information when it comes to selling, as it significantly
passed figures from 2014”, rejoices Christoph Keilmann,
increases emotional attachment to the item. In addition to
Managing Director for Gemworld Munich. In addition
classic precious stones, buyers in Munich can also experi-
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
ence one of the largest opal collections in Europe as well as numerous amber dealers from the Baltic states.
A FOCUS ON YOUNG TALENT A new addition in Munich this year, visitors can enjoy the work of young designers. By placing the ‘New Design Forum’ and finalists of the ‘Young Designers’ Corner’ jewellery competition at the centre of Gemworld Munich, organisers will promote the importance of increasing young talent in this sector. The direct proximity to the exclusive Gemworld Pavilion is both a reward and an obligation: “The quality of work presented in previous years has been extremely high. With this new addition we want to give young designers the recognition that they deserve and encourage them to produce their best work in this high-class setting”, says Christoph Keilmann. Interested participants can still apply for the ‘Young Designers’ Corner’ until 30th August. Information on how to take part and registration for the ‘New Design Forum’ is available at www.gemworldmunich.com.
MEET PEOPLE, WHO SELL YOU GEMSTONES AT EXHIBITIONS.
They have valuable (TARTPAS) stories to share, which you can share with your customers, it significantly increases emotional attachment to the item
Münchner Mineralientage Fachmesse GmbH Postfach 1361 Oberhaching email@example.com www.munichshow.com
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
THE FEEL OF THE CITY Jewellery from Centres of this World Report by SCHMUCK MUSEUM Press Office
hey’re exquisite, exciting and exhilarating: jewellery creations from the metropolises of this world all have that certain something about them. In its
exhibition entitled “The Feel of the City – Jewellery from Centres of this World” from July 10 through November 1, 2015, Pforzheim’s Jewellery Museum will be showcasing pieces of jewellery dating from classical antiquity until well into the 20th century, all of which were created in big cities. “Pieces like these need the relevant environment and soOpera glasses. Gold, enamel, diamonds, agates Lucien FALIZE, Paris, about 1880, Wartski, London
cial occasions,” explains Cornelie Holzach, the Museum’s director and curator of the exhibition, which is part of
The presence of the initial ‘B’ indicates that this luxurious objet d’art is likely to have been destined for the wife of Prince de Béarn-Viana (1840–1893), one of Lucien Falize’s most eminent patrons. He married Cecile de Talleyrand-Périgord, Princesse de Chalais in 1873, and from that date commissioned for her many pieces of jewellery from Lucien Falize.
Pforzheim’s cultural festival entitled WerkSTADT/Impulse für die Innenstadt (Creative Input for the City Centre). Ladies of society didn’t wear diamonds before, and pearls not after five o’clock. Those who were invited for tea needed the appropriate jewellery. However, it was not only in London that women adorned their décolletés, arms
Augsburg to the Hamburg of the 1920s. Urban living gen-
or fingers with spectacular pieces, but also in Paris. Some
erates contemporary jewellery that also reflects the fash-
jewellery can only be created – and worn – in big cities,
ion and the sense of life characteristic of a specific era. A
which will be conveyed as the exhibition’s central message.
vibrant social life is also fertile breeding ground for a richly
This special exhibition showcases about 100 exhibits
varied jewellery culture.
from the museum’s own collection as well as from lenders
One example of such precious jewellery worn in an
such as the Asenbaum Collection and the Galerie bei der
urban environment is a bracelet that was delicately crafted
Albertina – Zetter in Vienna, Tilman Bohm in Paris, Han-
from solid gold in Pompeii in the 1st century CE – a unique
cocks in London, Siegelson and Tiffany & Co. Archives in
piece whose considerable material value and exquisite
New York as well as Wartski in London. It spotlights the
craftsmanship can easily be discerned. Competition in the
centres of bygone epochs, such as Pompeii, Rome, Byzan-
metropolises was fierce, because many skilled artisans set-
tium and Constantinople, as well as the big trading cities
tled in the cities, where the upper classes were able to
of early modern times, starting from Florence via Paris and
afford expensive jewellery.
Bracelet. Gold, carneolian, beryl, prase Roman, presumably from Syria or Egypt, 3rd century AD Tilman BOHM, Paris Photo Tilman Bohm, Paris
Bracelet. Iron, Berlin, early 19th century, Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim Photo Petra Jaschke
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
The Middle Ages saw the development of the free cities, where wealthy burghers accounted for the majority of the population, and thus created a solid demand for jewellery. Young artisans set out on their journeyman years, and serfs liberated themselves from their landlords under the “Urban air makes you free” law. An impressive example of jewellery created in the big trading cities in the Renaissance is a precious parrot pendant crafted presumptively in Augsburg. It is lavishly enhanced with gold, pearls, gemstones and enamel, and served as a piece of wedding jewellery. In the Baroque period, entire cities were designed with a focus on their palaces, such as Versailles, Schönbrunn in Vienna, Nymphenburg in Munich or Karlsruhe Palace – the centres of both politics and society, as well as of court life in the era of absolute monarchy. Jewellery was often the “admission ticket” that opened the doors to life at court. In the early 20th century, avant-garde Art Nouveau jewellery was being flaunted in variety shows and theaBelt buckle. Gold, jade, carnelian Design Lucien Hirtz BOUCHERON, Paris, about 1901 Private collection
tres. The exhibits from that era include, among others, a floral “Chrysanthemums” brooch, whose cast glass blos-
Maison Boucheron was undoubtedly among the foremost Parisian jewel salons of the late nineteenth century. Founder Frédéric Boucheron relied upon the expertise of his talented staff including Lucien Hirtz, who worked for Falize before joining Boucheron in 1893.
soms were created by the famous jewellery designer René Lalique, and another brooch from Paris that features a large and lustrous greenish-blue fish with spread fins and big purple eyes, as well as natural pearls dangling from its mouth and representing its prey. It was designed by
People back then liked to wear a lot and also very flam-
Georges Fouquet, who used a very large mother-of-pearl
boyant jewellery, and the sometimes spectacular creations
element in the shape of a fish’s body to craft this excep-
were the talk of the Parisian salons. Whether necklaces
tional corsage adornment entitled “Poisson«.
or brooches, bracelets or rings: jewellery wearers exhaust-
Rock crystal was very much en vogue in the Art Deco
ed the entire spectrum of available jewellery. Around
period, and combined, for example, with sapphires and
the middle of the 20 th century, the jewellery worn in the
diamonds set in platinum. Georges Fouquet’s son Jean
world’s metropolises was more unobtrusive again. Two clip
also created very exquisite and harmoniously designed
brooches made of gold and topaz by Cartier in London
brooches. One of them, crafted from rock crystal, gold and
are perfect examples of highly precious materials used to
high-quality tourmaline and pearls, is characterized by a
convey sleek elegance.
technoid formal idiom: the circles evoke associations with
One of the exhibition’s highlights is the gleaming
gearwheels, and the cultured pearls incorporated bear
orange-red, finely cut Tiffany brooch complemented with
witness to the emergence of the relevant industry. This is
small diamonds from the collection of Pforzheim’s Jewel-
the first piece of jewellery to display a deliberate contrast
between matte and gleaming geometrical surfaces. Repre-
Whether timelessly elegant, elaborately crafted, opu-
senting a new attitude towards life, the “New Objectivity”
lent or understated, all the exhibits testify to a superlative
movement found its way into many artistic genres.
virtuosity and creativity that can only evolve in a pulsat-
Famous goldsmiths and jewellers worked in the big
ingly vibrant metropolis. Visitors can look forward to an
cities, travelled from Florence to London or Naples, were
exciting journey through the eras and important centres of
inspired by the metropolises’ atmosphere and shared their
this world that went down in jewellery history.
ideas and experiences. The jewellery they created includes
July 10 through November 1, 2015.
extravagantly shaped pendants crafted from gold, rubies For more Information please visit
and diamonds, for example, as well as belt buckles enhanced
with shimmering moonstone, or highly symbolic rings.
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
The changing GERMAN AMBER MARKET Report by Knut RUDLOFF
North Sea to Rome. 2,000 years ago, weight for weight amber was considered as valuable
OVER THE PAST 20 YEARS, THE AMBER MARKET IN GERMANY HAS UNDERGONE A DRAMATIC STRUCTURAL CHANGE. ALMOST ALL OF THE RESPECTED WHOLESALERS HAVE DISAPPEARED AND HAVE NOT BEEN REPLACED BY NEW COMPANIES. At the same time, the amber
as gold, as it still is today. Of the course of time, many eras contributed their own outstanding jewellery and art treasures. As an example, I might mention here the legendary Amber Room, a gift made by the Prussian king Friedrich Wilhelm I to the Russian tsar in the eighteenth century. This priceless artefact is thought to have been lost in the turmoil of
market in Germany has grown very rapidly,
the Second World War, and in the closing two
so in Germany today, for example, there are
Ambassador of “Ambertrip” in Germany
decades of the last century the Amber Room
dozens of specialist shops selling exclusively amber jewellery. With this presentation, we
would like to describe the evolution of the trade of the last few decades. We will then explain the situation as it stands today, and venture a glimpse into the future.
was reconstructed at colossal cost. Nowadays, it is admired every day by thousands of visitors
to the Catherine Palace near Saint Petersburg. In Germany, another age of prosperity for amber lasted from the beginning to the middle of the last century.
For many millennia, amber has traditionally been highly
The Kaliningrad company "State Amber Manufacturing")
prized as a commodity for making jewellery and handicrafts
(“Staatliche Bernstein-Manufaktur”) was active here from
in the region we now know as Germany. During the time of
1926 until 1945. With 1500 employees, it was the larg-
the Roman Empire, there was even a trade route from the
est manufacturer of amber products in the world. The
Typical sales display of the company “Nordschmuck”
thirty employees remained of the one thousand who had
sumer goods, such as cigarette-holders, bowls, boxes and
worked there before the Wall fell. Today, Ostseeschmuck
sells its wares directly to the public through the largest retail exhibition of amber in Europe. Its earlier production
After the Second World War, “VEB Ostsee-Schmuck” was established in Ribnitz-Damgarten, in the former Ger-
and wholesale activities are now all but defunct.
man Democratic Republic. In the 1970s and 1980s, about
The famed corporate names of the wholesale industry,
1,000 employees worked here, producing amber jewellery.
Heitmann, Köllner, Kolletzky, Westfalica, Schreiter – for a
The worked mainly with Saxony amber from the brown
variety of reasons they have all ceased purely wholesale
coal open cast mine in Bitterfeld. But these jewellery items
trading in amber. In Germany today, apart from a few
were not intended for the domestic, most were exported
smaller traders at the regional level, there are only very
to West Germany and Denmark for foreign currency.
few large traders working on a broader scale.
At that time, there were effectively only eight whole-
One of these, however, is Gunther Herrling. Still today,
sale traders and import companies on the amber market in
Gunther Herrling markets exceptionally high quality, items
the entire Federal Republic of Germany, with a population
from its exclusive amber collection. The company has a
of over 60 million. Since all these wholesalers worked with
very large collection of amber jewellery, which is regularly
the same pricing margin, there was almost no price com-
updated to include the latest fashion trends.
petition and to all intents and purposes the market was
But if the amber market in Germany today has never
an oligopoly. The situation changed dramatically after the
been larger, what exactly was the structural change that
political climate “thawed” and the “Iron Curtain” fell. In
robbed the wholesalers of their very secure existence?
just a few years it became possible to travel freely to and
The answer is very simple: the trade fairs. “Amberif” and
from the former Eastern bloc countries, and in the new age
“Ambermart” in Gdansk, “Ambertrip” in Vilnius! Today,
of commercial freedom that arose from the ashes of com-
there is nothing easier for a German retailer to visit these
munism, hundreds of amber working companies sprang
fairs and browse the endless offerings from literally hun-
up. As a result, the supply of amber jewellery increased,
dreds of producers to select the jewellery his or her cus-
spread and became more diverse and more interesting.
tomers will buy.
The former state-owned enterprise “VEB Ostsee-
Whether it be inexpensive mass-produced jewellery
Schmuck” was privatised, and by the mid-1990s only
for seaside gift shops or stunning, unique artefacts for
Thanks to these speciality shops,
AMBER IS AGAIN A BOOMING COMMODITY IN GERMANY, because
here amber is introduced to the market in all its variety and beauty
Samples from the collection “My Island”
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
company produced not only jewellery, but also many con-
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
upmarket galleries, German traders will find everything
Gunther Herrling is now the only enterprise in Germany
they need in Gdansk or Vilnius.
that owns its own amber polishing plant, and it can offer
The sheer size and range of the offerings at these fairs
fast, custom service to the specialist retail trade.
also prompted the rapid rise of , speciality shops opening in
The company “Nordschmuck”, entered the market rel-
Germany. Thanks to these speciality shops, amber is again
atively recently. It has been active in the wholesale trade
a booming commodity in Germany, because here amber is
in Germany for about 15 years. The secret of its business
introduced to the market in all its variety and beauty.
success lies in a sophisticated concept of decoration and
Moreover, the supply of amber jewellery has been
logistics. In general, all of its products are conceived, cre-
increasing online, both in individual stores and on such
ated and sold together with a decoration concept that is
websites as eBay or Amazon. This is where tens of thou-
designed to appeal to the taste of German consumers. Pro-
sands of the popular necklaces and chains for babies and
prietary brands, such as the collection “Meine Insel®” (“My
dogs find their buyers.
Island”), which offer silver and amber pendants portraying
So what can a wholesaler offer in Germany today?
the contours of all the German vacation islands, or “Ben-
The market has indeed become very crowded. There a
stein trifft Mooreiche®” (“Amber meets Black Oak”) are
few wholesalers in the German amber jewellery market
an important success factor. Currently, nearly 100 sales dis-
who have earned a regular customer base by offering
plays and baskets on various topics are offered. Every item is
their products at the regional level. I am going to briefly
already fully costed and priced so the retailer is guaranteed
describe two companies that have gained importance on a
a substantial profit margin without having to worry about
larger scale due to their unique offerings.
the pricing structure of his competitor in the next town.
One of these is Gunther Herrling, the company I men-
Moreover, every product has an EAN code, so the goods
tioned earlier. Gunther Herrling has been operating in the
can be accounted for using an electronic cash register. The
market successfully since 1957. The company’s secret lies
seller does not need a pricey warehouse separate from the
in the quality of the items it offers for sale. Besides its
sales display, because he/she can quickly and easily order all
own workshops in Germany, it has cultivated close, long-
products using a number code. Almost all goods that are
standing relations with leading manufacturers in Poland
ordered by noon are dispatched from the warehouse on the
and Lithuania. Besides producing for their own custom-
same day and they reach the customer the following day.
ers, these foreign contacts supply Gunther Herrling with a
So here too, in “Nordschmuck” we have a company that is thriving at a national level in the amber wholesale trade. The customers of “Nordschmuck GmbH” would not gain anything by going to Poland or Lithuania to buy their amber, because these customers are mostly the larger gift shops near the North Sea and the Baltic Sea, for which amber only represents a small fraction of their product lines. However, interesting sales figures are still generated in these shops from the Nordschmuck product line thanks to the high turnover rate of the sophisticated logistics system. Currently, over 25 manufacturers in Poland and 15 in Lithuania are the key suppliers to “Nordschmuck”, thus ensuring an extremely wide range of goods, which are currently offered in more than 300 stores throughout Germany. In conclusion, it can be reasonably argued that the
Samples from the collection “Amber meets Black Oak”
“classic” wholesale trade in amber has almost disappeared in Germany. For the retailer s the customer of a wholesaler,
steady stream of jewellery items of exceptional design and
above average quality combined with appropriate service
are and will henceforth alway be just as important as a
The items are sold to jewellers who have realised the
design that corresponds to the tastes of the German final
financial possibilities of amber jewellery and are keen to
consumer and a well-developed, convincing presentation
include them in their product lines. At the same time,
and logistical concept.
INTERGEM 2015 presents rarities and know-how
The Home of Gemstones
Report by INTERGEM Press Office
of modern techniques and the collaboration with local companies can lead to astonishing results like the auto-
dar-Oberstein – The INTERGEM 2015 is at the ready.
matic production of 3–D forms made of stone in combina-
Preparations for the most important event in the gem-
tion with electroplating. Furthermore students of the Idar-
stone industry are in full throttle. In the face of increas-
Oberstein class of gold- and silversmiths and gemstone
ing global competition and diminishing supply of rough
setters present their creations and will also demonstrate
stones the importance of the industry’s signature fair is un-
the art of enamelling.
mistakable. The incomparable international centre of the
Last but not least the supporting programme will once
gemstone industry is located in Idar-Oberstein – with the
again be top of the notch: On Friday 02. October the foyer
INTERGEM as its flagship. “You will probably never find
in the halls will turn into a vine tasting lounge presented
this concentration of know how in craftsmanship, trade,
by the vineyard “Korell Johanneshof” from Bad Kreuz‑
research and all the other services concerning fine gem-
nach – and on Saturday evening the INTERGEM calls to the
stones anywhere else in the world”, says Kai-Uwe Hille the
fair party at the PH1 club at Park Hotel Idar-Oberstein.
managing director of INTERGEM. “The local industry is facFor more Information please visit
ing major challenges due to the inclining competition for
the last resources. Many rarities can solely be found here in Idar-Oberstein.” The long grown relationships of the lapidaries to miners and traders in the countries of origin
FEDERAL REPUBLIC OF GERMANY
and rough stone treasures accumulated over decades are the basis of the INTERGEM’s one-of-a-kind variety which is
EU, NATO Capital Berlin Official language German Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area – 357 021 km2 Population (2014) 80 716 000 Government Federal parliamentary constitutional republic President Joachim Gauck Chancellor Angela Merkel GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 42 169.05 EUR Ethnic groups 91.5 % German 8.5 % others Czech Largest cities Republic Berlin 3 426 354 GERMANY Hamburg 1 739 117 Bavaria 1 260 391
presented once a year at the beginning of October. Visitors are sure to not only find an unmatched range of unique gems, pearls, gemstone jewellery and a broad range of technical services but to experience know how first hand. Institutions and colleges present their expertise at the newly created “Competence Centre”. The German Gemmological Association will demonstrate their gemmological work focussing on the microscopic possibilities for the determination of origin of rubies, sapphires and emeralds as well as microscopic characteristics for the distinction of natural and synthetic stones. Additionally graduates of the field “Gemstones and jewellery” of the Trier University of applied sciences will present various projects – showing how the combination
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Coloured Gemstones by Groh + Ripp (Photocredit: Hannes Magerstaedt)
Diamond Ring by Hans D. KRIEGER
Furthest to the left – Emeritus, Svend Visby FUNDER from the Geological Museum in Copenhage; to the left of the stone – Associate Professor and Curator, Lars VILHELMSEN from Natural History Museum of Denmark; to the right of the stone, House of Amber’s Managing Director, Pia FØNS SØRENSEN; furthest to the right: House of Amber’s Co-Owner and Group CEO, Lars BLADT
breaking amber piece in
Report by HOUSE OF AMBER Press Office
ouse of Amber and Copenhagen Amber Museum has just been enlisted in Guinness World Records with the largest piece of amber in the
The amber piece was found by miners in Indonesia
who were digging tunnels through the landscape. When the miners first found this piece of amber, it weighed more than 176 pounds (80 kg). The amber piece on the picture above is the polished stone, after the piece was cleaned of soil etc. Subsequently, the piece was tested and verified as pure amber by Österreichische Gemmologische Gesellschaft. The amber weighs 104.72 pounds (47.5 kg) and measures 57.5 x 62 x 37 cm. The amber piece was found in the Dharmasraya region in West Sumatra in 2014 and is around 15–25 million years old. An interesting fact is that this amber type was discovered only a few years ago. Amber from Sumatra is characteristically non-transparent and brownish, but radiates a blue colour tone when exposed to UV-light or sunlight. The amber piece can be enjoyed and explored at the Copenhagen Amber Museum. Address: Kongens Nytorv 2, by Nyhavn. ”At House of Amber we are delighted to get our hands on such a marvellous piece of amber and further proud of getting the amber piece enlisted in Guinness World Records. It is a real extraordinary find which we can now exhibit in our unique amber museum at Kongens Nytorv.” says Pia Føns, Managing Director at House of Amber.
47.5 kg www.balticjewellerynews.com
DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT
DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Amber necklace by Algirdas MIKUTIS
DANISH AMBERMARKET The
By Erik JOHANSEN
enmark is a small country, but it
the amber towards the shore. Amber is found
has a coastal line of more than
mainly on high tide and by falling water. Then
7.000 kilometers length. It is situ-
you need to be there before all other search-
ated between the Baltic Sea and the North
ers, early in the morning or even at night with
Sea. A lot of broad beaches are found along
strong lamps to detect the amber pieces.
the shore line. For more than 1000 years the
THE AMBER TRADE IN DENMARK.
people in Denmark have collected amber at these beaches and have used it for amulets
Historically (from 1950 and earlier) there
and jewellery. Foreign trade with amber have
have been amber grinders in a lot of places close to the beaches in the western part of
happened during the centuries, where amber jewellery have been exported. Also today amber can be
Denmark, in Jylland at the North Sea, maybee up to 50
found. Unfortunally not in very big quantities, but around
places. They have collected amber themselves or have
1.000 kilo is found every year at seaside. No mining is done
bought amber from other local people, who have found
it. They have sold the finished products from their own
When you visit the beaches you will often see a lot
workshops or have sold it to buyers, who later sold for
of people trying to find amber on the places where they
goldsmiths and other shops in the bigger cities as Copen-
see stones accumulate. But you will not find amber there,
hagen, Odense, Aarhus and so on.
because amber is that light so it is normally found between
Currently and as it been the last 20 years, the sale of
parts of plants, twigs and seaweed.
amber articles is now concentrated in a number of amber
It is a science itself to find the amber pieces. The wind is
shops and for a smaller part, in souvenier shops. Almost all
extremely important. It has to start blowing hard from the
articles are imported. A few shops take an active part in
sea, maybe for more days. This will lift the amber off the
designing jewellery and gets their own designs produced.
seabed, but it does not come in. If then the wind changes
The number of amber grinders who produce all their prod-
direction and starts blowing from land towards the sea,
ucts themselves are almost non excisting. Even the number
this will change the current below the surface and bring
of amber grinders are extremely reduced, it is less than 10
AMBER PRICES. The rising prices for bigger pieces of amber have drawn big interest in Denmark. Television,
The places where amber is sold today follows the same
radio and newspapers have told about the sometimes sen-
idea as in old days. Most sellers are in Jylland (the western
sational prices obtained and that has caused a rising inter-
part of Denmark) close to the big holiday resorts as Ribe,
est of amber. People have looked through their cupboards
Blaavand, Henne, Ringkøbing and Skagen. Some smaller
and drawers to find old hidden pieces of amber and many
places, in the northern part of Jylland, have also special-
comes to sell amber to the shops. The price of smaller
ized amber shops. The biggest supplier along the west
pieces have not changed a lot, so it is still possible to get
coast is ”Den lille Ravbutik” who has 5 shops, with sizes
jewellery with amber at very reasonable prices.
up to almost 200 m2 in the places where a lot of tourists comes. This company also have own production facilities. Then especially in Copenhagen there are a number of smaller, medium and very big amber shops. Also other big-
AMBER WHOLESALE. Only 2 or 3 specific amber wholesale companies are on the danish market. These companies specialice in finished products. Some auction companies are involved in selling raw amber.
ger cities have amber shops and also a lot of gold- and silversmiths have some amber jewellery. AMBER DESIGN. A lot of work is done to make amber jewellery of all types modern in design and attractive for young customers, so a major group of customers are now younger people. It is tried really to make things not heavy and in some cases with amber in different colours in the same piece of jewellery. AMBER CUSTOMERS. A lot of jewellery is sold for german tourists on vacation in Denmark. The chinese customers also plays a major role in Denmark as well as in other countries. But tourists from all over the world comes to Denmark and enjoys bringing amber jewellery home. Of course also the market for danish people has a big size. NEW PRODUCT! A new thing is introduced a lot of places along the danish west coast: Guided tours, how and where to find amber. Many tourists likes to get lots of fresh air and they find it very attractive to find amber by themselves.
KINGDOM OF DENMARK EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Copenhagen Official language Danish Currency Danish krone (DKK), 1 EUR – 7.4605 DKK Time zone CET (UTC+1) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+2) Area 357 021 km2 Population (2015) 5 668 743 Government Unitary parliamentary constitutional monarchy Monarch Margrethe II Prime Minister Lars Løkke Rasmussen Sweden GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 40 869.70 EUR Ethnic groups 87 % Scandinavians 13 % others Largest cities Copenhagen 1 181 239 DENMARK Aarhus 242 914 Odense 166 305
DANISH JEWELLERY REPORT
today, and most are selling both their own products and
FROM the SWAN to MAGIC STAR Efva ATTLING
A reminder to get out of a bad relationship or to change your life somehow. Jewellery is very personal, you wear it every day and it shows who you are. What is your favourite piece of jewellery that you made? What message does it send?
made her first piece of jewelry
when she was eleven years old. It was a Swan – a silver
I´ve used Latin in my expressions like Amor Fati – the
bracelet. At the age of sixteen she was a pupil of one of
love for our destiny. For me that means, we have been
Sweden’s greatest silversmiths, Bengt Liljedahl. EFVA AT-
given this life, lets make the best out of it.
TLING, has lived a multitude of incredible lives before re-
I am proud of my collection ”Take No Shit”. I made
turning to her original passion of jewelry making. Quite
it in collaboration with BRIS. A Swedish foundation that
the star in her native Stockholm, Efva is recognized for her
helps children that are abused. I´ve raised nearly 1 million
work as a model, her music, and her magazine industry
Swedish crowns with that piece of jewellery, it´s important
stint. Eileen Ford spotted Efva at the age of seventeen and
for me to help.
a twelve-year modeling career began, working in Paris, London, Milan and New York. Having music in her family and in her heart Efva next started a band in 1981 called the X Models. The band had a hit ballad ”Two of us” in the 1980’s that Efva composed. Through the years she also designed clothes for both Levi’s and H&M, been a TV host and a fashion editor. In 1996 she decided to go back to were she once started; designing jewellery, working with silver, gold and precious stones. Efva Attling opened her own workshop in February 1999 in the southern part of central Stockholm. This was the first jewelry shop that she owned and designed. Today Efva Attling is the leading jewellery designer in Sweden: the company has seven Efva Attling stores (one in NYC’s Meatpacking District), 103 retailers in Sweden and 81 across the rest of the globe. What is unique about Efva is she often puts expresFrom collection “Take No Shit”
sions in her designs. She calls it: ”Beauty with a Thought”. Beyond her beautiful and thoughtful designs, Efva is dedicated to building awareness for issues that are close to her heart through her jewelry and has raised millions of
Where do you get your inspiration for your jew-
dollars from pieces created over the years. In Lookbooks of your jewellery, one can find a lot
of quotes and your own thoughts. Every single piece
From life, travel and from talking to people. I´m very
of jewellery seems to have a meaning behind it. Do
interested in the human being.
you think that jewellery should send messages?
Did any of jewellers inspire you? Could you name your own favourite jeweller?
I think jewelry most of the time have an emotional aspect like a gift from someone you care about or who
Vivianna Torun Bülow Hübe was a Swedish designer
cares about you. I used to be a singer/songwriter and I still
for Georg Jensen and she was so great in many ways. I met
want to move people with words. I can write a message on
her before she passed away and she really gave me some
a piece of jewellery to boost yourself.
courage when I started as a jewellery designer.
”I am intrigued by all our differences and I
BELIEVE WHAT TIES US ALL TOGETHER IS HUMOUR, MUSIC AND LOVE. I call my designs Beauty with a thought.” www.balticjewellerynews.com
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Interview by Odilija GUNTORIŪTĖ
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
From collection “Lifeline”
“I WANT TO BOOST PEOPLE WITH MY DESIGN and let the jewelry be conversation pieces”
You received a medal from the Royal Swedish Patriotic Society in April 2011, do awards change something for artists? What did it mean to get this award to you? Not more than that your work is appreciated. It was a nice evening and it was a little fun when Prins Carl Philip had some trouble pinning the medal on my dress. Otherwise it´s business as usual. You have a new collection called Viking. Why for this collection did you choose to come back to your roots: is it a new fashion in Sweden? I always wanted to do the Viking collection. It´s really inspired by how they made jewellery ages ago. Simple, Miss Butterfly Heaven & Stars Collier
heavy with a twist. But of course, I am a fashionista so I also follow trends. I love fashion!
KINGDOM OF SWEDEN
You sang in a band “X-Models”. Why did you switch from the music art form to jewellery?
EU, Hallmarking Convention Capital Stockholm Official language Swedish Currency Swedish krona (SEK); 1 EUR – 9.16 SEK Time zone CET (UTC+1) CEST (UTC+2) Summer (DST) Area – 449 964 km2 Population (2015) 9 775 572 Government Constitutional monarchy, Unitary parliamentary representative democracy Monarch King Carl XVI Gustaf SWEDEN Prime Minister Stefan Lofven GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 42 559.76 EUR Ethnic groups 89,3 % Swedish, 3 % Finn & Sami (Lapp) Largest cities Helsinki 626 305, Espoo 267 906, Tampere Denmark
I started to train as a silver & goldsmith when I was 17. But then I was discovered as a model and modelled for 12 years. Then I was in the music business and I was also designing clothes for H&M. It took me 27 years to come back to where I once started. I think I needed to live my full life of experiences to make the jewellery I design today. Does music inspire you to create jewellery? Are there any jewellery pieces that were inspired by your own songs? Yes, I have a collection called Miss Butterfly which was my first song I wrote. I also have ”Two of Us” like my old hitsong from the 80´s. Music is very important in my life.
FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT
A TRIP TO International jewellery triennial, Imatra, Finland
By Antonio ALTARRIBA
hat does the word KORU means, it simply means jewellery in Finnish language and it is
THE CURATION OF THE EXHIBITION OF KORU 5
a tradition that the KORU triennial consists
of workshops, a seminar and an international exhibition,
The exhibition of the KORU5 displays the work of 51
sometimes there has been also paral.lel exhibitions. This
artists coming from 21 countries. The show was opened
format has always been alike to all KORU events, which
in Imatra Art Museum on Friday 7th of August and it will
started in 1997, the first editions named Alchemy, the
remain open until 12.9.2015, then it will travel to Vaasa Art
stone of wisdom and Midsummer workshops were mod-
Hall 3.10.â€“29.11.2015 and finally the show will end next
est. The workshops vary according to the themes to be
year at Kuopio art museum 10.6.â€“10.9.2016. A full colour
treated, some are material based and others rather con-
catalogue has been printed. This is the first triennial that
ceptual. The seminar contents talks from art theorists and
the exhibition is itinerant, it is a challenge for the organ-
artists presentations. The event has been always interna-
izers, because they have to pack all the pieces, exhibition
tional, speakers and artists coming from several countries.
tables etc. but it is an excellent opportunity for the promo-
All these together makes a forum for new approaches and
tion of international contemporary jewellery around Fin-
views on contemporary jewellery. Connections and con-
land especially in this artistic context.
necting people could be one purpose of the event and a
This exhibition is the selection of an open call to jewel-
great opportunity for museum visitors to make a trip to the
lers. The organizers received 363 proposals, and the jury
fantastic world of contemporary jewellery.
was composed by Helena Lehtinen, jeweller artist, Jyrki
The organizer of this triennial is The Finnish Jewellery
Siukonen, Doctor in Fine Arts and Katarina Siltavuori, Mas-
Art Association (www.korutaideyhdistys.fi) cooperating
ter in Art History. The jury studied carefully proposals and
among others with the art museum and with Saimaa Uni-
and made the selection of participants for the exhibition.
versity of Applied Sciences.
An open call is always a big risk to take for the organizer,
The association was founded in 2005 to promote jew-
because you may not receive enough entries, but KORU
ellery and to provide Finnish jewellers a sense of belonging
event is already old enough, the amount of applications
to a greater community.
FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT Photos by Tarja Tuupanen
Connections and connecting people could be one purpose of the event and a great opportunity for museum visitors TO MAKE A TRIP TO THE FANTASTIC WORLD
THE WORKSHOPS OF KORU 5
Pontoppidan, professor and jewel artist, Jyrki Siukonen, Ph
There were three workshops from Monday to Thurs-
and sculptor, Hannah Joris, Ph and jewell artist, Edgar Mosa,
day and the leaders were Terhi Tolvanen, (Fi/Fra), Land-
jewell artist and designer, Ulla Ahola, jewel artist, Shu-Lin
scapes in stone. A landscape can be cultural, architec-
Wu, jewel artist, Daniela Hedman, jewell artist.
tural and urban… imaginary, musical or poetic…. The
I quote now some sentences from the lectures. Edgar
workshop was a walk together in rocky landscapes while
Mosa who lives and works in New York issue was about
making imaginary landscapes. Working with stone, dis-
”Commercial jewellery and art jewellery” every jeweller
cussing about stone and getting surprised about stone!
should think how to make its living. Hannah Joris talked
Edgar Mosa (Por/ USA) Creative Patriotisms. Utilizing
about doctorates and artists. Should an artist concentrate
the conventions of the bench and metalwork, this work-
in exploring and making art or in making doctoral thesis.
shop proposed to gather an international group of mak-
Shu-Lin Wu presented the contemporary spectrum of jew-
ers and thinkers out of their home and studio to work,
ellery in Taiwan and she talked about the lack of contem-
think, and nurture a hands-on conversation of “why we
porary jewellery galleries in her country and all the efforts
are how we are and do how we do”. Monika Brugger
the young generation is making to open new spaces for it.
(FR) Heimat. Nomads, travellers, backpackers, globetrot-
All the lecturers were interesting and did not left anybody
ters, vagabonds, immigrant, exile, expatriate, being away
from home, being elsewhere. Many of us have changed
In the seminar premises there were several OFF exhibi-
countries for pleasure, curiosity, desire for change, rarely
tions from students and different groups, so during the
by economic or political necessity. Many of us reconstruct
lunch time or coffee breaks the seminar participants could
what is called ”Heimat” in German, build, find or invent
new or other roots. Jewellery connects homelands.
THE EXHIBITION THE SEMINAR
The exhibition is large and well displayed. The Baltic
The seminar of KORU 5 on Friday and Saturday present-
Jewellery News readers will appreciate it in the images
ed several talks and artist presentations among them Karen
accompanied, but the best is to see it at its site.
FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT
THE ART of HANDMAKING
By TAMMI JEWELLERY Press Office
ammi brand stands for fine quality natural materials, the beauty of handmaking and comtemporary but classic Scandinavian design. The art and tal-
Tammi, the oak tree, lives in time, but has deep roots in
ent of handmaking is the most precious thing for us when
traditional handmaking methods and professional skills.
implementing the design of luxurious pieces of jewellery.
Every piece of jewellery has a mark of a person behind its
Well maintained they also last from one generation to the
creation and it has been made with strong interest in detail
next. All Tammi jewels are little pieces of art designed and
and fine quality finishing.
created by hand.
Tammi is a beautifully handcrafted classic. The Baltic
Tammi Jewellery has been in the markets for over
Jewellery News is very happy that Tammi brand has agreed
60 years , founded by a goldsmith Alpo Tammi in 1954.
to share some of its jewellery making secrets.
FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT DESIGN
Most of the Tammi Jewellery designs have been
The talent of goldsmiths shows in the details.
inspired by the beauty of the Finnish arctic nature since
Creating, assembling, polishing and shaping with care
the early dates of the brand. Yet Orkidea, the brands high-
the goldsmith brings out the beauty in every piece. Every
light collection for the 60 th Anniversary, designed by Mar-
little detail counts. Tammi brand stands for the traditional methods of
jut Kemppi, is an outstanding example of the distinctive
handmaking where the details come from a persons
design of Tammi Jewellery.
hands, not computers.
Good design evolves along the many phases of the making process when finally it meets all the requirements,
Details bring out the beauty and separate the extraor-
also as a piece of art. Functionality, beauty, distinctive and
dinary from ordinary. Tammi compliments its designs by
unimitable design are regarded as standard for Tammi
skilled detailing and each jewel is individually finished and
Jewellery. The great history of jewellry making and the
perfected by hand. Uniqueness of Tammi Jewellery lie in
many amazing vintage pieces of Tammi also give a guide-
handmade details. Each jewel has its own characteristics
line to follow in the future.
and is thus unique.
The art takes shape in constructing the little red wax
A good design is as important as high quality in mate-
tree. Very skilled hands are needed to set the base for
rials and in production. Tammi Jewellery embodies both
the next phase of jewellerymaking, the casting. All little
these things. Tammi makes fine, unique jewellery from
detailed shapes of wax are attached to a stem which even-
high quality recycled gold and finest quality Sterling silver
tually looks like a peculiar tree. How the end-product will
with traditional handmaking methods.
look depends on the care and precision put in to creating
The precious pearls of the precious metals are like small seeds from which the ready jewellery is grown. Choosing
the little shapes and attaching them on the tree.
the best seeds gives the jewellery solid base to last from
All Tammi jewellery are shaped by hand, and created
one generation to the next.
FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT
THE BEAUTY OF HANDMAKING Shaped by hand, created with heart is the beauty of handmaking. The 60th anniversary highlight is the collection of the Orkidea, which represents the talent and beauty from the concept to design, creation, and all the way to a ready and unique piece of Jewellery. Each piece is like an artwork
TAMMI has been
itself even in the middle of the process.
highly valued nationally and internationally with the acknowledgements like THE
It is beautiful to see how the creations evolve in hands. Tammi cherishes the artistic side of the making instead of
GOLDSMITH OF THE YEAR IN FINLAND FOR ALPO TAMMI. The SKILLFUL DESIGNERS have always been the CORE COMPETENCE
following the latest inventions of computerised productions.
of the brandsince the beginning.
For more information:
› firstname.lastname@example.org; www.tammijewellery.com
REPUBLIC OF FINLAND EU, Hallmarking Convention Capital Helsinki Official language(s) Finnish, Swedish Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 338 424 km2 Population (2015) 5 483 533 Government Parliamentary republic President Sauli Niinisto Prime minister Juha Sipilä GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 36 800 EUR Ethnic groups 93.4 % Finn 6.6 % others Largest cities Helsinki 626 305 Espoo 267 906 Tampere 223 238
CASTING Tammi is a forerunner in making jewellery by casting plaster. In Tammi studio the talent required for this challenging phase of jewellery-making is highly appreciated. Great things are never achieved the easy way. Casting is all about the art of making the beautiful small trees of silver and gold like in the picture. Little but valuable shapes that in capable hands become a beautiful artefact. The white precious metal trees hold together small pieces of jewellery to be cut out from the tree for the next steps of the journey in traditional handmaking.
DESIGN: WWW.FILET.NO • FORSIDEFOTO: EMIL JANGÅRD RASMUSSEN OG BOEINSPIRE COPYRIGHT
Norwegian Jewellery and Watch Trade Fair 27th – 30th of August 2015 at Lillestrøm, Norway Welcome to the fourth edition of the only international trade fair in Norway
Telephone: +47 22 44 16 20 / +47 978 71 346 | www.ngumesse.no email@example.com | www.facebook.com/gullogurmesse | #norskgullogurmesse
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Amber. THE SECOND BIRTH Report by KALININGRAD AMBER COMBINE Audio- and video-installations, insects under a microscope in a rigid resin, multimedia art objects, multilayer pictures, strange installations come as though from the future or another planet. And all of this is in various shades of yellow and orange. It is hard to believe that this entire phantasmagoria was born around such a well-known and usual stone. New ideas and technologies help to overcome the stagnation in amber industry.
in the technical field but in Art and design as well. “We
birth” was exhibited in Moscow with the assistance of Am-
are discovering amber again. Similarly, earlier we did not
ber Factory; it became a significant cultural event because
know much about graphene, which was known because
of its futuristic features. Young Moscow artists, design-
of graphite that was used to make stabs for pencils. Today,
ers, sculptors and photographers, who found inspiration
after having studied its features better, we have discovered
in amber, its history and impressive characteristics, were
that it is superconductive, it is making a technological rev-
involved in the creation of the exhibition. Thanks to them,
olution,” states a designer. According to him, similar pro-
amber was first exposed in a new capacity as an inde-
cesses start in the knowledge of the properties of amber.
pendent art object. The basis of the exhibition includes the
The most important thing is to start the searches and to
photographs about the history of amber, audio-visual in-
put forward new ideas. The fact that scientists and art-
stallations due to which amber became a musical setting,
ists are considering new possibilities of amber already sug-
multimedia installation, which helped to find themselves
gests that there are possible new discoveries in the nearest
inside amber, art object “amber molecule”, multilayer pic-
future. The master is convinced that the question itself is a
tures, video installations, etc. On the first day of the exhibi-
half of the solution. And what is about the conductivity of
tion, it was visited by approximately 20 000 people.
Amber? Is it possible to extract sound from it? How does
Today, the leading Russian designers are thinking
it conduct electromagnetic waves? Let’s try! According
about new features of amber. “Thanks to its unique fea-
to Karpov, a lot of legends and myths are created about
tures, it may have hundreds of roles in the age of high tech-
amber. There are stories about the tears of nymphs, frag-
nologies,” think the representatives of Russian school of
ments of celestial chariots. In ancient Russian stories there
design. According to them, a detailed study of the features
is a “stone Alatyr” that burns. All of this may be used in
of the material is capable to make an “explosion” not only
creation of new perception of amber, which can become
in Russia and countries of the Baltic region. According to
a completely new material with the help of new technolo-
amber products. Basically, they cause a negative associa-
gies. “Let’s say it is possible to put myths about this stone
tion of young generation related to soviet times and past
recorded by actors into a piece of fossilized resin. A parent
fashion. According to the marketers, today the audience
takes such piece of amber, presses a barely visible button
of potential consumers of amber could be larger by a few
and put into their child’s bed who will consider the stone
tens of millions of people; however, they pass by amber
as a source of information. It is possible to make such an
products as these do not match preferences of their taste.
educational audio-book,” fantasizes a designer.
Those changes and processes which are happening today
the results, basic consumers of amber are women aged 45–70. Young generation, aged 18–35, is not interested in
The most important thing is that phantasies of artistic
in Russian amber industry are intended to return a forgot-
people find support of the management of Russian amber
ten glory to amber at the global level. One of them is the
industry. The director of the factory Mikhail Zatsepin gives
involvement of new forces and search of new non-tradi-
great importance to artistic experiments with the produc-
tional approaches to working with amber.
tion of his company. He stated that what was made by
Kaliningrad amber factory is a global monopoly in
Russian designers in the exhibition “has never come to
extraction of amber and manages one of the largest mines
anyone’s mind. We may see that amber was first adapted
of amber in the world, and one of the leaders of global
to the language of art of exhibition spaces; it moves from the antique and souvenir shops to fashionable art galleries and becomes a part of contemporary art,” he said. Thus, the largest companies of amber extraction show their interest in the change of amber image not only in Russia but in the whole world as well. And the perception of “solar stone” should have been changed long time ago. Industry experts point out that there is a crisis of ideas in the global market of amber. There have not been any creative ideas and fresh solutions of the designers for a long time. The market of amber processing formed long An interactive amber room was established in Moscow. The installation allows enjoying the most beautiful properties of refraction of light which comes out of amber and produces the processes occurring in the conversion of resin into amber
ago, and the range of products offered to a customer has narrowed. No matter where you are, i.e. in Kaliningrad, Gdansk, Vilnius or Beijing, we may find more or less similar products made with different skill levels of the author. Traditional jewelry, paintings and panels, boxes, vases and
amber industry has become a part of one of the largest
various souvenir decorative objects are offered most usu-
state corporations “Rostex”. Rostex is a Russian corpora-
ally. Of course, there are great works, true masterpieces,
tion established in 2007 in order to promote the develop-
made by masters from different countries with the use of
ment, production and export of high-tech industrial prod-
their own unique technology and design; however, these
ucts. It comprises more than 700 organizations including
products do not actually get in an open market and are
so famous brands as AVTOVAZ, KAMAZ, Russian Helicop-
immediately taken into private collections. This situation
ters, etc. The new owner was set up a global task – to
has led to the fact that the market of amber consumers has
lead Amber factory to a new technological and industrial
significantly narrowed during the recent years. New mate-
level to expand its presents on Russian and global mar-
rials and new forms are more attractive for the generation
kets. A full technical audit of the company was complet-
of consumers. And once, amber used to be considered
ed recently, on the basis of the results of which there is
as one of the most fashionable and marketable materials
currently being made a programme for the development
in Europe. Over the previous six months, Russian special-
of the company. Estimated amount of investments make
ists performed a research of Russian and European amber
a few tens of millions of Euro. The company is going to
market including focus-groups with the consumers of vari-
increase its profitability from 5 % to 15 % and gradually
ous age as well as the analysis of offered amber products
increase production to 500 tons of amber per year. Also,
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Amber is becoming an object of contemporary art through the dialogues between the leaders of Russian amber industry and young designers
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
it is planned to install innovations in production aimed at
and events involving young people. One of such events
preserving the ecology of the region. Recently, Russia has
took place in May this year.
dramatically changed attitude towards amber. If earlier in
The processes happening in Russia which supplies the
the post-soviet era the focus was on the supply of global
stone around the world will, of course, influence Euro-
markets with raw material, so today Russia pretends to
pean industry of amber too. The resources of amber are
remain the largest centre of amber extraction, become a
concentrated in Kaliningrad Region, but “solar stone” is
locomotive of the global industry of amber and give this
used as symbol in a number of countries of the Baltic Sea
material a totally new relevant perception.
region. Cooperation and realization of joint projects aimed
One of the directions of the activity which is being
to the development of amber craftsmanship, relevance of
developed by Amber factory is cooperation with young
the material in accordance with current tendencies in the
designers. This kind of cooperation enables young Rus-
sphere of design are a direction in the result of which all
sian artists, designers and scientists to communicate
participants will win. Kaliningrad Amber Factory is interest-
directly with the processors of amber, visit jewelry shops,
ed in development of joint projects with foreign partners
and implement joint master-classes and seminars. Due to
who will contribute to the development and promotion
the new policy of Kaliningrad Amber Factory, amber has
of amber production. That is why the management of the
gained a new relevance in a view of Russian designers, and
factory is interested in development of mutually beneficial
the masters got the opportunity to access a “solar stone”.
relationships with foreign partners aimed at the imple-
“Attracting young Russian designers to work with amber
mentation of joint projects on promotion of amber and
will result in emergence of new trends in processing of the
development of amber production. According to Director General of JSC “Yantarny Yuvelirprom” Vadim Vodopjanov, the company values those partners first “who take part in creating something and not just sell goods”. According to him, the company which is the largest producer of amber products in the world is oriented to partners involved in modeling and production of finished jewelry. “We do not have anything in common with those companies that are oriented only in resale,” said the head of the company. One of the examples of effective international cooperation is
The installation of an audio-visual artist explores the physical properties of amber and uses its ability to transmit light to become a conveyor of information
International Biennale of products from amber, which took
stone and in emergence of modern products correspond-
event. The Biennale was attended by artists and jewelers
ing to the tastes of the young audience,” thinks the direc-
from Austria, Belgium, Germany, Denmark, Spain, Italy,
tor of JSC “Kaliningrad Amber Factory” Mikhail Zatsepin,
Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Russia and France. Winners of the
“A direct dialog with the processors of amber will help
contest were determined by the authoritative jury, repre-
young artistic personalities to feel the nature of the stone
sented by experts and specialists in the field of jewelry and
better and will precipitate the work on the creation of new
lapidary art from Denmark, Italy, Poland, Russia and France.
jewelry and objects of interior by using amber.” Accord-
The highest interests of the industry are in the spread
ing to Deputy General Director of the subsidiary company
of amber as one of the most beautiful stones not only in
of the Amber Factory, JSC “Yantarny Yuvelirprom”, Yekat-
the territory of Russia and the Baltic countries. And this
erina Mashutova, it is intended to work in the company on
should be started cultural exchange among the countries,
expansion of the audience of customers. “We hope that in
which will continue by the pragmatic economics. The
15-year time a portrait of our customer will change drasti-
Amber Factory, which is the main company for extraction
cally. Young people will become the customers of amber
of amber, starts the process of spreading the fashion on
jewelry. In addition, we intend to shift to new customers
amber as a new promising material worldwide. The aim
not only without losses but with significant increase in
is to make “solar stone” popular and fashionable all over
sales as well,” says Yekaterina. That is why the factory and
the world and not to limit its use only as a souvenir from
its subsidiary companies initiate various creative activities
Kaliningrad and neighbouring Baltic countries.
place in June of 2015. A subsidiary company of Amber factory JSC “Yantarny Yuvelirprom” became a partner of the
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
THE LARGEST AND THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS EXHIBITION IN RUSSIA Report by JUNWEX Press Office
BEST RUSSIAN JEWELRY CONTEST – PRESTIGE, BEAUTY, INNOVATIONS
Moscow is the only exhibition in the capital, where you can find all the leading Russian companies: Adamant,
Jewellers are getting prepared for
SOKOLOV, Topaz, Platina, Kameya,
one of the most important events of
Aquamarine, Diamonds of Kostroma,
the year – all-Russia jewellers contest
etc. New original collections of such
The Best Russian Jewelry. JUNWEX-
companies as Mousson, Ringo, Mas-
Moscow is a bright kaleidoscope of
ter Diamond, Jewellers of Ural are
precious pieces – from the distin-
convincing judges of jeweller’s art
guished classics and elegant luxury
of Russian designers’ competence,
to modern and avant-guard. Selected
and improvement of Russian Jewel-
pieces of jewellery art will obtain the
lery School based on traditions of
recognition of judges of authority,
Faberge, Khlebnikov, Sazikov, Bolin.
and also certificates of honour.
Apart from Russian jewelry business
leaders, famous brands from France, Italy, India, Hong Kong, Brazil, Turkey, China, Thailand, Poland, Israel and UAE will be exhibited
• was established in 2005
• is an efficient way of cooperation with foreign
Today JUNWEX Moscow is not only the largest and the
partners and investments attraction
most prestigious exhibition in Russia, but also the most
• is one of the large-scale shows in Russia for
effective for the exhibitors from the commercial point of
promotion and presentation of international
view, both for jewelry manufacturers, trade specialists and
jewellery brands and goods for export
companies, that specialize on jewelry technology, equip-
• held at the up-to-date venue – All-Russian
ment, software, etc.
Special technology department JUNWEX Tech offers
• the strong support of Russian Jewellery Trade Club
wide variety of goods and services for jewellery industry.
guarantees high attendance of wholesalers and
All the important enterprises will take part: Sisma, Fasti
Industriale, Bulunmaz, Sapphire, Jeweler Partner, Juvin,
• Pre-Show and At-the-Show marketing resources
Umo etc. More information:
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
PERSONAL ACCESSORIES: RISK VS OPPORTUNITY AS RUSSIA'S ECONOMY IMPLODES By Rob WALKER, Contributing Analyst, Euromonitor International
the second and third quarters of 2014, and it is what is now expected to be seen in Russia over the first half of 2015. The big question
ussia was one of the fastest growing
is whether the Russian personal accessories
markets in the world for jewellery
market is on the verge of a more sustained
last year, with sales climbing 10 %
slowdown, as real spending power erodes and
at fixed US dollar prices. That statistic might
as the economy sinks into recession. Recent
seem odd given the country's punishing eco-
trends show that the jewellery market and
nomic headwinds, but it is precisely because
luxury jewellery market in particular is highly
of this volatility – and the plunging rouble in
exposed to economic downturns (see chart).
particular – that demand for jewellery proved so strong.
AN OPPORTUNITY FOR LOCAL BRANDS TO SEIZE THE INITIATIVE
What was seen in Moscow and St Petersburg in the final quarter of last year was a dash to turn savings and pensions into US dollars and euros. This was followed by a
Russia's rouble has rallied over recent weeks, boosted
surge in sales of jewellery and other personal accessories
by stabilising oil prices and a fragile truce to the conflict in
as consumers sought to preempt widely anticipated price
Eastern Ukraine. But, its current value against the US dol-
hikes. There was a similar phenomenon in Japan during
lar is still around 40 % lower than it was in the middle of
the first quarter of last year when footfall in luxury stores
last year, and it is vulnerable to contagion from the West's
increased substantially as middle-class consumers hurried
economic sanctions. A return to falling oil prices later this
to beat an April rise in the sales tax.
year should not be ruled out either. Crucially, the Russian
Sudden sales spikes such as these almost always pre-
economy is widely expected to contract in 2015, with or
cede troughs though. That is what was seen in Japan in
without stable oil prices.
RUSSIA: JEWELLERY VALUE SALES VS GNI 2007–2014
lion personal accessories category? Firstly, global brands
What does all this mean for the country's US$13.0 bilare likely to get squeezed as prices move beyond the reach Year-on-year growth (%) in ﬁxed 2014 Us dollars
of Russia's cash-strapped middle class. Secondly, product
development and retail investment plans for Russia are
likely to get redrawn as companies and investors wait out
the current downturn.
There are some potential winners though. In particu-
lar, the devaluation of the rouble will help make local
brands more competitive (on price point). There is also
an argument that Putin-inspired nationalism could drive
up demand for Russian brands as tensions with the West
accelerate. Indeed, patriotic consumption has long been 2007 08 2008 09 2009 10 2010 11 2011 12 2012 13 2013 14
nurtured in Putin's Russia. Russian brands are already key players in the country's jewellery category. Krascvetmet,
Gross National Income
for example, saw its share of jewellery retail value sales
There is a strong correlation between jewellery sales and economic health
for big-name global brands. Russians, keep in mind, are
start to climb higher over the next two years. While Rus-
important contributors to footfall in leading mixed retailers
sian brands are not immune to the economic slowdown,
across Western Europe.
they are clearly much less exposed than imported brands to the rouble's weakness.
MID-MARKET IMPORTS LOOK VULNERABLE
FALLING RETAIL SALES IN Q1 2015 ARE A SIGN OF THINGS TO COME Russia currently has the sixth biggest personal acces-
At the top end of the personal accessories category,
sories market in the world, but that position is starting to
there is less uncertainty because Russia's super-rich con-
look under threat. A rush to snap up products towards the
sumers are virtually immune to recession (a quarter of a
end of last year, especially jewellery, has given manufactur-
million households have an annual disposable income of
ers some breathing space. But, a period of more sluggish
more than US$300,000, according to data from Euromoni-
sales now seems inevitable.
tor International). This ought to help high-end brands such as Bvlgari and Boucheron stay buoyant.
Yes, sustained demand for domestic brands might offset some of the slowdown in the jewellery market as a
The biggest squeeze will be in demand for mid-market
whole, but Russia's middle class is visibly in the process of
brands, which is fuelled primarily by the middle class. Jew-
tightening its belt. For example, overall retail sales fell in
ellery brands such as Pandora could struggle, for exam-
January 2015 (year-on-year) for the first time in more than
ple. This is also where local players could pick up some of
five years, according to data from the Federal Statistics
the slack. As a direct consequence of the rouble's tailspin,
Service, and they dropped again in February.
the price of imported brands could go up by more than
Declining retail sales are likely to be the defining trend
40 % this year, unless manufacturers are prepared to slash
of the year ahead, leading to the most challenging operat-
ing conditions for personal accessories since the economic
Of course, the weak rouble also means that Russia's middle class will be travelling abroad less over the year
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
climb from 5 % in 2010 to 7 % in 2013. That share could
crisis of 2008–2009. Imported brands, in particular, will have to hold their nerve.
ahead, which could wield further downside implications
we are changing ...
of quality P.A.T. ul. Legionów 100 42-200 Częstochowa, Poland tel. +48 34 360 23 81 email: firstname.lastname@example.org
furniture packaging displays
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
NEW STANDARD CHOSEN By Irina KLIMOVICH Grand Prix goes to Martin Messavilla (Italy) for the big and small necklaces “Lightbell” and the ring “Lightpoint”. 2015. Amber, silver, plastic
Until August 30, Kaliningrad Regional Amber
ety of collections. From traditional arts to avant-garde. In
Museum is exhibiting “solar stone works”
my opinion, the contestants have tried everything with the
from 12 European countries – Austria, Belgium,
‘solar stone’ they possibly could.”
Germany, the Netherlands, Denmark, Spain, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Russia, and
Julie Rey-Camet, General Secretary of Job house (BOCI),
France. A total of 290 articles were presented
Vice-President of Interprofessional council for bijouterie
for the contest “Metaphysics of Light” within
and time craft, such art contests are a unique platform for
the Sixth International Biennial of Amber Art
uniting artists from different countries. The jeweller, Board
Works “Alatyr 2015.”
member of the Danish State Art foundation for crafts and
According to the member of the jury from France,
design, Mette Saabye, a twice jury of the contest and the omen’s adornments, home decoration cre-
Grand Prix winner at the Biennale–2013 as a participant,
ated by 178 artists within the past two years
considers the amber as the object of history. It is interest-
were evaluated by the international jury,
ing to her as a mineral, as a resin frozen many millions of
which consisted of experts and specialists in jewellery and
years ago which sometimes encloses fragments of animal
carving art from Denmark, Italy, Poland, Russia, and France.
or vegetable origin.
“I think that the works that we have appreciated
“Gorgeous material,” says Mette Saabye, “I really like
should become a reference, a certain standard for artists
to work with it. Amber is becoming more and more popu-
over the next year or two,” states the chairman of the jury
lar worldwide every year, as more and more artists employ
Andrzej Shadkovski (artist, professor of Strzemiński Acad-
it to make their articles modern and eye-catching. We are
emy of Fine Arts in Lodz, Poland). “Grand Prix has gone to
always curious to see the result of this work.”
Martin Messavilla, Italy, for stylish minimalism and high-
Members of the jury were no less impressed with stu-
quality amber processing. Authors have presented a vari-
dents from Kaliningrad collaborated with during work-
“Problems of Restoration and Conservation of Amber”,
For example, artist and designer, professor Benno Simma,
where scientists, conservators, artists, and art historians
has noted the meeting was productive of much good not
from Poland, Russia, and Ukraine presented their reports.
only for the novice jewellers who got the chance to escape
It is gratifying to note that there are more young authors
the daily routine at these classes and get new information
among participants of the competition. For example, this
from competent professionals, but also for himself.
has been the first year for works of the Association of Rus-
Special interest of both among students and quite
sian Designers and “Russian Amber” artists (Moscow) – the
experienced amber craftsmen was raised by the workshop
result of their creative cooperation with experienced Kalin-
“Storage and Preventive Conservation of Amber Works”,
ingrad masters from the Association of Amber Processors.
which took place at the Biennale “Alatyr 2015” within the
Visitors of the museum were highly excited with the
framework of the co-project between the State Hermitage
concurrent exhibition “Time Connection”, held within
and the Coca-Cola System “Let's Save Cultural Heritage
the Biennale. There were exhibited brooches, necklaces,
Together". It was conducted by Marina Michri – restorer
tiaras, rings, accessories, jewellery created by “Smolensk
artist of the highest category of the Laboratory for Scien-
Diamonds” team based on outstanding authentic sketches
tific Restoration of Objects Made of Organic Materials of
of artists of Carl Faberge Company from the collection of
the State Hermitage.
the State Hermitage. The exhibition was organized in part-
“The theme of restoration and conservation of amber is
nership with a subsidiary “Rubin” (Kaliningrad) of OJSC
very important for Kaliningrad,” says director of the Amber
Museum Tatyana Suvorova, “as all the Kaliningrad museums
The International Biennale “Alatyr” has been tradi-
have amber collections, and in this situation we have no
tionally supported by the Ministry of Culture of Kalinin-
professional restorers in our region. It is especially relevant
grad region. In 2015, General partner of the Biennial was
for archaeological findings.” These issues were addressed
“Yantarniy Yuvelirprom”, subsidiary of Kaliningrad Amber
at the international scientific and practical conference
1 Laureate in the category “Creation of Artistic Image” –
the works exhibited at this competition,” mentioned in her
“We were astonished with beauty and uniqueness of
Jaroslaw KOLEC (Lodz, Poland). Brooch “Light.” 2015. Amber, silver casting
speech the Minister of Culture of Kaliningrad region Svetlana Kondratieva. “The Amber Museum raises the bar of
2 Laureate in the category “Creation of Artistic Image” – Olga
the biennial higher and higher every year, winning new
TSYPLAKOVA (Kaliningrad, Russia). Brooch No.3 from the set “Electron”. 2015. Amber, metal, copper wire, author’s technique
friends and partners. Thanks to such large-scale interna-
3 Laureate in the category “Innovation” – Susanne ELSTNER
tional projects, amber becomes not just a symbol of our
(Germany). Brooch series "Of the Same Origin". 2015. Amber, charcoal, silver, steel
land, but also of the whole Russia.
4 Laureate in the category dedicated to the Year of Literature
in Russia – Daria NESTEROVA (Togliatti, Russia). Brooches series “Winged” after the works of Marc Chagall. 2015. Amber, ivory, bronze, carving, casting
THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION Capital Moscow Official language Russian Currency Russian ruble Time zone in Moscow (USZ1 (UTC+03:00) Area 17,1 million km2 Population (2015) 146 270 033 Government A federal semi-presidential republic President Vladimir Putin Prime Minister Dmitry Medvedev GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 24 067 EUR Ethnic groups (2010) 81.0 % Russian 3.7 % Tatar 1.4 % Ukrainian RUSSIAN Largest cities FEDERATION Estonia Moscow 11 503 501 Saint Petersburg 4 879 566 Latvia Novosibirsk 1 473 754
5 Laureate in the category “Skill” – Kirill BOR (Kaliningrad,
Russia). Tobacco pipe “Boy on the Dolphin”. 2014. Natural amber, pressed amber, carving, coloration *Pictures – from the archive of the Kaliningrad Regional Amber Museum
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
shop (the educational program held within the Biennale).
ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
BALANCE of fashion
jewellery and art
Interview with Tanel VEENRE by Venecija GUNTORIUTE ents that they let me do what I really enjoyed. My mother has artistic education and father is violinist – so culture has been essential part of our everyday lives. In high school I became seduced a bit by fashion world – so I was flirting with it for some years. But seriousness of jewellery finally won. Is there any artist, jeweller that inspires you or is your role model? I am rather social and very curios – so I am consatntly surprised and inspired by others... But for sure biggest How do you understand jewellery? Why did you
influence has been my teacher Kadri Mälk.
choose to express yourself through jewellery?
Are other forms of art besides the jewellery, present in your work?
I see jewellery as an extention of a mind on the body. Choice of a jewellery was rather unconcious and random...
Although I think most of contemporary fine art is
I loved to get lost in the detail and that was probably my
decaying nonsense I got now and then inspired by the con-
idea of a jewellery then. Real power as a medium where
flicts I see there. My way of creating is so synergical that I
you can compress big ideas into smallest format came later.
can see whole culture reflecting there for me – from clas-
Professor Kadri Malk has written about you: “The
sical music to pop art, from burlesque dance to body art...
method Veenre uses is fragmentary – an observation
How did you manage to reach the foreign audi-
of the unknown in the light of the known”. Are you
ence? As your art jewellery pieces are sold through
trying to describe the world as seen through your
galleries – Ornamentum (USA), Platina (Sweden),
SODA (Istanbul), Pont&Plas (Ghent), Galerie Noel
My own eyes are the only ones I have ... Even though
Guyomarch (Montreal), PUTTI (Riga), ATTA (Bang-
I love to dive through empathy into other mindsets and
kok), Thomas Cohn (Sao Paolo) and RA (Amsterdam).
challenge myself looking through others eyes. I had a long
Everything is built day by day, brick by brick. With the
waking up today, it`s a rainy Sunday and I was reading
help of supporting and generous souls around me. I have
“Moments od Being” by Wirginia Woolf, I felt like I had
this phisolosophy that I just have to dream big and work
her eyes for a moment. Although probably more realis-
hard and then everything fallows. I don`t push the things,
tic perception would be that I had these eyes before that
I just let them happen. What was the biggest challenge for you in your
inside my and this book just made me to find them ... So
we are probably always looking for things we already have through reflections on others.
I have several burning question marks in my heart – so
My materials seem the most usual for me... It`m my
always the present ones seems the biggest ... Right now
natural way of being, communicating with surroundings.
I have been questioning the the relationship between the
How and when did your passion for jewellery
trap of artistic style (expectations, handwriting) and the
started? Does any of your family members do some-
real. Is it possible that they overlap or they are opposites?
thing related with art?
How to stay honest without becoming a copy of myself?
Art has always been present in my life, I have`nt ever
Other big technical challenge for me right now is
had any other dreams than become an artist. As a kid I was
how to balance my fashion jewellery (www.tvj.ee) and art
drawing all days on the floor – and I am grateful to my par-
(www.tanelveenre.com)? How to build up production to
ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
really fresh eye putting jewelley into contemporary art context. I think Latvia and Lithuania might be stronger in fashion jewellery, I have seen some really exiting young brands with bold pieces. Looking at your instagram, people can see a lot of art pictures, do you take them by yourself? I always do all my pictures I share in social media by myself. I really love the communicative power of social media – instead of showing only my own stuff I try to open up the process, to show inspirational sources. And I also try to show a lot of great things other artists do, specially the young ones. There is so much talent around me, it gets me thrilled constantly. What are your plans for future? In what ways would you want to grow, are there any techniques that you would like to try? I would like to get my fashion jewellery production done much more smoothly and in bigger quantities. And in art – I am super exited to prepare my next shows and lectures in Brazil, China, Spain, USA, Estonia ... I don`t need any holydays, I answer the demand of the market without spending my
just wanna work in my studio whole days... Running there
whole life there and to have still ideas and time for my art.
also right after I finish answering you What would you advice for anyone who is plan-
What is the idea behind your recent jewellery? Do
ning to start creating jewellery?
you think that jewellery should have an idea behind it? For sure! But it can be whole story or system of values,
Be bold, work hard, recognize details. And don`t for-
it should`nt be just a sentence you could write on your flag.
get that you are not alone.
Right now I am super exited about the relationship between power, masculinity, military design and erotical forms. Do you have any loyal customers that waits for
REPUBLIC OF ESTONIA
your new pieces of work?
EU, NATO Capital Tallinn Official language Estonian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2); Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 45 227 km2 Population (2015) 1 313 271 Government Parliamentary republic President Toomas Hendrik Ilves Prime Minister Taavi Roivas GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 25 172.30 EUR ESTONIA Ethnic groups (2015) 69.1 % Estonians, 31.3 % others Largest cities Latvia Tallinn 394 024 Tartu 101 092 Lithuania Narva 66 980
There are collectors who really follow my way of growing. I am grateful for them and it`s really a responsibility as well – I have to push myself every day so hard to get better, to inspire. Maybe the black book carved out of jet. Or white seahorses with milky opal. What do you think about jewellers from the Baltic States? Could you name your favourite one? To be honest I think art jewellery is strongest in Estonia, there are ca 10 artists who are appreciated in international scene. But the strongest art jewelley gallery is in Riga, PUTTI is doing such a great job to make jewellery visible for local audiences. And gallery (AV17) in Vilnius has
› www.tanelveenre.com, www.tvj.ee, www.facebook.com/tvjewellery, Instagram @tanelveenre
AMBER-BERNSTEIN Poilsio str. 7, LT-93200, Klaipeda, LITHUANIA Mob. +370 68631576 email@example.com, www.ambertrade.euu
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
ART GALLERY PUTTI
presents the summer exhibition „White horse in a green meadow”, on display from June 22 until September 4, 2015
Report by PUTTI Press Office
SUMMER EXUDES WARMTH LIKE QUIET HEARTBEATS. There is a desire to fall into the soul of dandelion fluffs and feel the love of wind. The blue, blue sky moves above heads like ocean. Moon beams in the calm river waters. Summer dances in the rhythm of river depths. Storks fly over the garden give us their blessing. White horses wander in the meadow in the early morning. Summer shines forth through the horse`s wise eyes. All is us.
ifferent Latvian and international contemporary
(Italy), Reka Lorincz (Hungary), Heng Lee (Taiwan), Julia
jewellery artists participate in the exhibition
Maria Kunnap (Estonia), Asa Elmstam (Sweden), Ana Car-
“White horse in a green meadow”: Guntis Laud-
dim (Portugal), Kira Yurina (Japan), Yuki Sumiya (Japan),
ers (Latvia), Māris Auniņš (Latvia), Māris Šustiņš (Latvia),
Ying-Hsiu Chen (Taiwan), Yung-Huei Chao (Taiwan), Kirsty
Valdis Brože (Latvia), Andris Lauders (Latvia), Gigi Mariani
Pearson (England), Lena Lidahl (Sweden).
Guntis LAUDERS, ring – silver 925, ivory, amethyst, sapphire
Kirsty PEARSON, earrings, CONFRONTATION – nylon, cotton, stainless steel
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Māris ŠUSTIŅŠ, earrings – silver 925, pearl
Yuki SUMIYA, brooch, GARDEN – oxidized silver, sponge
Heng LEE, brooch, FLORAL EMBROIDERY PIXEL – stainless steel plated with 20K gold, thread, silk organza
Ying-Hsiu CHEN, brooch, SOFT CORAL – light clay, laundry bag, 18K plated brass
Asa ELMSTAM, ring – gold
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Māris AUNIŅŠ, ring – silver 925, amethyst
Valdis BROŽE, earrings -silver 925, gold 750, olivin
Andris LAUDERS, earrings – silver 925', gold 750', topaz
Gigi MARIANI, ring, IN BALANCE – silver, 18kt yellow gold, niello, patina
Julia Maria KÜNNAP, ring, MAYBE STILL – nephrite
Reka LORINCZ, brooch, PEARL CAN - gold 750', pearls
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Yung-huei CHAO, brooch, ROOFTOP – copper, nickel silver, stainless steel wire and components
KIRAYURINA, brooch – acrylic mirror, wood
Lena LINDAHL, necklace, ANGER – silver, etched zinc, pearls, artificial leaf
For more information please contact:
Zane EŠMITE e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org phone number: +371 26 133 753
Ana Cardim, two rings, OMPLEMENTARITY – silver, button
REPUBLIC OF LATVIA EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Riga Official language Latvian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 64 589 km2 Population (2014) 1 997 500 Government Parliamentary republic President Raimonds Vējonis Prime Minister Laimdota Straujuma GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 22 655.43 Estonia Ethnic groups (2014) 61.4 % Latvians 26.0 % Russians LATVIA 3.4 % Belarusians Largest cities Lithuania Riga 713 016 Daugavpils 93 312 Belarus Liepaja 76 731
UAB DEVYNI GINTARAI DEBRECENO 70–10 KLAIPEDA LT-94153 LITHUANIA
owner EDVARDAS ZUMBRICKAS TEL. +370 39838245 FAX +370 46360652
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Giedrius GUNTORIUS in his exhibition opening speach thanked Mr. FEHRN for his contribution to amber jewellery industry
“AMBER TRIP” is becoming increasingly popular
By Virginija ZYGIENE
The largest international jewellery and amber show in the Baltic countries “Amber Trip 2015” attracted a record number of participants this year, and distinguished itself by an expanded exhibition area and exclusive collections presented during the show.
international jewellery and amber show in the Baltic countries “Amber Trip” attracted a record number of participants
this year – around 150 jewellery and amber representatives from around the world as well as several dozens of artists participated in the show. The show was visited by VIP buyers who came from remote corners of the world such as Kamchatka Peninsula in Russia, Japan or Kuwait. The total area of the exhibition has grown to such a size as it was in 2009, the year of global financial crisis, when the maximum exhibition size was reached. “Significant increase in the number of participants and the exhibition area indicate a recovery of the Baltic jewel-
Thunder stone – the largest amber nugget in Lithuania retrieved from the bottom of the Baltic Sea and its weight reaches 3 820 grams. From Kazimieras MISGIRIS collection
lery market and high demand to organize such a show. Amber products are becoming increasingly popular in
Tarasova from St. Petersburg (Russia), while the winner
Giedrius Guntorius, head of the show organizing company
in the “Objects” category was Zane Žukovska from Lat-
via – her art piece “Trap” was nominated “For expressive
As every year, various seminars and events were held
and topics regarding amber and jewellery were discussed
The organizer of “Amber Trip” hopes that in 2016 the
during the show. Since “Amber Trip” show is the first inter-
exhibition will attract an even larger number of partici-
national jewellery show of the year throughout the Baltic
pants and the show will help each participant to find new
Sea Region, as well as the only specialized exhibition in
business partners and markets, as well as bring a lot of
the Baltic countries, it is very important for its participants
as it outlines goals for the whole year: prices and article designs crystallize and the purchasing power in the region becomes more clear in this show. During the exhibition, Jonas Satkūnas, Director of Lithuanian Geological Survey, shared plans to mine amber in Lithuania, which is located in the Curonian Lagoon, near Juodkrantė. He stated that prospecting and mining works of amber deposits may begin later this year. The Ministry of Environment of Lithuania will publish an invitation to tender, while business representatives have already stated their desire to participate in the tender procedures. The annual amber mining quota could reach around 30 tons per year. Participants and visitors of the XII international show “Amber Trip” had an exclusive opportunity to see and learn about famous collections. During the show, amber workshop “Carskoje selo” from St. Petersburg (Russia) presented 26 exact copies from various collections: Amber room fragments, scientific reconstructions of items from the lost collections of Berlin and Kongsberg, amber icons, as well as creative masterpieces created by amber artists. “Amber Trip” show also included the demonstration of “Perkūno” stone (Thunder stone). It is the largest amber nugget in Lithuania retrieved from the bottom of the Baltic Sea and its weight reaches 3 820 grams. This unique amber nugget has been wandering around the world for a long time and even visited Kuwait. During the show, an international jewellery art contest “Dialogue of Opposites” was held, where jewellers from not only Lithuania, but also from around the world were competing with each other. In the “Jewellery” category, first place was granted to Natalija Tarasova and Tatjana
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Arab countries, as well as in America and Europe”, – says
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“JEWELLERY” CATEGORY 1st place Natalija TARASOVA, Tatjana TARASOVA (St. Petersburg, Russia) “For plasticity of form” Ring, gummed paper, amber, silver
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT By Virginija ZYGIENE
year, “Amber Trip” exhibition
materials, depth and plane, statics and dynamics, etc. This
presents talented and original jewellery artists from the
may have been one or several pieces of jewellery connect-
Baltic Sea Region, as well as from other countries of the
ed by a common topic, raised goals and composition. The
world. Jewellers from the Baltic countries, Russia, Poland,
most important thing was to clearly express one's idea and
Germany, Finland, Norway and Sweden participated in the
not damage the unity of the composition.
contest, which took place during the XII International Bal-
Contestants competed in two categories: “Jewellery”
tic Jewellery Show on 18–21 March, 2015.
and “Objects”. In the “Jewellery” category, first place was
Chairwoman of the commission from St. Petersburg,
granted to Natalija Tarasova and Tatjana Tarasova from St.
Galina Kovaliova says that its participants had to create a
Petersburg (Russia), while the winner in the “Objects” cat-
visual composition, whose base is the contrast between
egory was Zane Žukovska from Latvia – her art piece “Trap”
two opposite features. The difference between these fea-
was nominated “For expressive dialogue”.
tures may have been related to technological methods,
2nd place Ginta ZBOROVSKA (Latvia) “For diverse material matching solution” Brooch, plastic, amber, net, iron
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
3rd place Kęstutis STANAPĖDIS (Lithuania) “For elegant union of materials” Gold, amber, acrylic, silver ￼
4th place Eglė TAMOŠIŪNAITĖ (Lithuania) “For dialogue between illusion and reality” Earrings “Collusion”, silver, amber
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT “OBJECTS” CATEGORY 1st place Zane ŽUKOVSKA (Latvia) “For expressive dialogue” Object “Trap”, iron, amber 2nd place Emilija RAGINSKYTĖ (Lithuania) “For playful censorship” Object “Censorship”, wood, silver, amber, wire
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
ž4th place Rūta NIČAJENĖ (Lithuania)
“For philosophical solution of different materials”
Object “Dialogue of Opposites I, II”, “Dialogue with Irena DAUKŠAITĖ - GUOBIENĖ”, amber, copper, brass, bronze, cliché ￼
4th place Jurij VELIKOTSKIJ (Kaliningrad, Russia) “For poetic work image” Object “We are Pribalts”, field stone, amber ￼
3rd place R. Mėnulio KATINAS (Lithuania) “For visual theme solution” Object “Secret. Fragrant tears”, amber, glass, cardboard, mirror
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
OBSERVED TRENDS IN THE LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY MARKET Lithuanian Assay Office team and exhibition “Flowers, flowers…” participants
By Virginija VAŠKELYTĖ State Enterprise Lithuanian Assay Office
Fourth trend. Diamond weight in jewellery arti-
(“Lietuvos prabavimo rūmai”) is an institution
cles has decreased by half. This means that articles with
carrying out the state supervision of precious
precious stones have lost their massiveness, which was
metals and stones in Lithuania. The company's
replaced by modest and aesthetic beauty. In addition, the
activities focus not only on the control of
weight of the articles themselves has decreased and con-
legal entities, but also on the protection of
tinues to decrease. Thus, the produced jewellery articles
are not as massive anymore due to fluctuating gold prices in the market.
INFORMATION ABOUT BUSINESS TRENDS
In recent years, new trends began to emerge in the
According to the data of the Lithuanian Assay Office, in 2014, there was a decrease in the number of legal enti-
jewellery market. Four main trends can be distinguished: First trend. Precious metals are often combined with
ties carrying out activities related to jewellery. When com-
base metals in jewellery articles. Manufacturers create
paring 2013 and 2014, the number of newly registered
more jewellery articles using various decorative elements,
business entities has decreased by 6.09 % (164 units in
including enamel, fabric, bone, leather and ornate stones.
2013, and 154 in 2014) (see Figure 1).
This is especially popular when creating bracelets or ear-
NEWLY REGISTERED BUSINESS ENTITIES
rings, when base metal materials are used for decoration. Second trend. It is becoming increasingly popular to
cover silver and gold articles with rhodium coating. Coat-
ing jewellery articles with rhodium protects them from scratches. Articles that are coated with it do not change
their colour, nor lose their shine for a long time. This is becoming increasingly important for consumers that are
constantly in a hurry and do not have the opportunity to provide appropriate additional care for their jewellery. The
jewellery article must be beautiful and retain its original state as long as possible.
Third trend. The market offers a very broad selection
of products, therefore more buyers appear who purchase yellow or white gold articles. It was observed that the
There was a slight increase in the number of business
amount of puffed gold articles, silver articles decorated
entities who terminated their activities. When comparing
with gold and silver articles with large decorative stones
2013 and 2014, the number of business entities who
has increased in the market.
terminated their activities has increased by 18.19 %
(18 units in 2013, and 22 units in 2014). The increase
When summarizing the amount of hallmarked and
in the number of business entities who terminate their
stamped precious metals, it was observed that, in 2014
activities can be related to the changed national currency
(compared to 2013), there were more hallmarked gold
of Lithuania. When preparing for currency changes,
(22 %) and silver (2 %) articles.
most small and weak companies questioned the success of their business and were forced to terminate their
HALLMARKING OF AU AND AG ARTICLES
DEREGISTERED BUSINESS ENTITIES IN 2013 AND 2014
Currently, the growth in the precious metal and stone becoming
market is slower than several years ago. Nevertheless, an
increasingly popular, however, there is a slight decline
increasingly wider selection of various different jewellery
in this area as well. 40 business entities carried out
is observed in the Lithuanian market, resulting in distinctly
e-commercial activities related to jewellery in 2013, and
35 business entities in 2014. Thus, the decline reaches 12.5 %. Even though there was a decline in the previously
REPUBLIC OF LITHUANIA
discussed areas in 2014, however, the amount of hallmarked
EU, NATO, Hallmarking Convention Capital Vilnius Official language Lithuanian Currency Euro (EUR) Time zone EET (UTC+2); Summer (DST) EEST (UTC+3) Area – 65,300 km2 Population (2015) 2 904 391 Government Parliamentary republic President Dalia Grybauskaite Prime Minister Algirdas Butkevicius GDP (PPP) Per capita (2015) 25 366.53 EUR Ethnic groups (2011) 84.1 % Lithuanians Latvia 6.6 % Poles 5.8% Russians LITHUANIA Largest cities (2014)
and stamped precious metal articles has increased by 4.28 % (1,34 million pcs in 2013, and 1,4 million pcs in 2014).
HALLMARKED PRECIOUS METAL ARTICLES Million pcs
Vilnius 539 939 Kaunas 304 097 Klaipėda 157 350 Klaipėda 158 541
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
THE PRODUCED JEWELLERY ARTICLES ARE NOT AS MASSIVE anymore due to fluctuating gold prices in the market
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
CHRONICLE OF THE AMBER WAR
Ukraine, Summer 2015 S By Elena BELICHENKO
considerable refinement and was submitted for considera-
The problem has been caused by a number of reasons,
the conflicts between miners and law enforcement bodies,
i.e. a difficult financial situation in the country caused by
the “protection racket” for amber mining by the “persons
war, a sharp rise in the price of amber in the global mar-
of force”, and the emergence of “amber mafia” started to
ket, little responsibility for illegal mining in Ukraine, relative
appear in the press. Particular attention was focused on the
cheapness and simplicity of technologies for amber mining
new region of mining, Olevsk District in Zhytomyr Oblast,
by artisans due to its occurrence near surface. All this led
where amber was started to be mined in massive amounts
to an explosion of illegal artisanal mining of amber in Pole-
in 2014. In May, the problem of illegal extraction of amber
sia. In 2014, law enforcement bodies initiated more than
reached the level of the government of the country.
tion to relevant organizations. However, the time was lost and the situation went out of control. Since the beginning of 2015, the publications about the revitalization of illegal mining, the confrontation of different groups of miners, the criminalization of mining,
300 criminal cases for unauthorized extraction of amber.
05/06/2015. During the press conference on the
In accordance with the reports of State Customs Service of
occasion of the annual address to the Verkhovna Rada, the
Ukraine, only in the period of January – March 2015, there
President of Ukraine, Petro Poroshenko, commented on the
were revealed 38 cases of illegal export of amber, total
bill which should protect the environment and the interests
weight of which was more than 800 kg. In most cases,
of the state in the process of the extraction of amber.
amber was illegally exported to China and Poland. Experts
“Local people for whom this is the only place to work
have estimated that the circulation of uncontrolled market
are also involved there; that is why they defend the local
of amber by the state in Ukraine reaches 300 million US
criminals and the local authorities with such willfulness.
dollars per year.
So, our duty is to reduce to order. And that is why after
All participants of amber market in Ukraine are well
the meeting with journalists I initiated the law which, on
aware that the solution to the problem of illegal mining
the one hand, should ensure the protection of the envi-
of amber is only possible provided that there will be intro-
ronment and protect the interests of the state, and on the
duced bills which provide the implementation of artisanal
other hand, it should provide the work for those who work
mining in the places of occurrence of amber which do not
there,” stated Poroshenko. He noted that he expected the
have any commercial significance.
Verkhovna Rada to pass this bill in the nearest future.
In December 2014 – January 2015, there were sug-
Security service of Ukraine togeth-
gested several bills which should regulate the extraction of
er with the militia and prosecutor’s office disclosed and
amber – “For the peculiarities of extraction of raw amber
stopped the activity of two illegal groups in Zhytomyr
in the places of its occurrence which do not have any com-
Oblast. Without having a special permit for mining, the
mercial significance”, “For the extraction and realization of
offenders mined amber illegally. In order to suppress their
amber”, “For artisanal activity”.
activity, they had formalized the ownership for a land plot
In April 2015, the Verkhovna Rada of Ukraine took up
ostensibly to engage in agricultural activities in Olevsk Dis-
in the first reading the law “For the extraction and reali-
trict, Zhytomyr Oblast. In fact, the extraction of amber was
zation of amber”. This law offers a complex approach to
being performed in the plot all day long.
solving the problems indicated above. According to the
19/06/2015. In the village of Olevsk, the authori-
authors of the bill, a strategic objective is to create a civi-
ties of Zhytomyr Oblast and the heads of security agen-
lized market of amber in Ukraine with clear rules of partici-
cies held a meeting on the issues of illegal extraction of
pation in it. It is advised to solve the problem of employ-
ment of illegal miners by encouraging them to unite into
The president of Zhytomyr Oblast State Administration
mining artels. Separate sections of the bill are intended for
Sergey Mashkovskii announced about the establishment
legal regulation of peculiarities of formation and activities
of an interdepartmental group to combat illegal min-
of a mining artel and the basics of functioning of amber
ing of amber which would include representatives of law
market as well. According to the experts, the law needed
enforcement agencies, government, environmental servic-
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
DURING 2014–2015, IN UKRAINE THERE WAS A SHARP GROWTH IN THE ILLEGAL EXTRACTION OF AMBER, EXPANDED THE AREA OF UNAUTHORIZED ARTISANAL MINING COVERING NOT ONLY THE TERRITORY OF RIVNE OBLAST BUT THE NORTHERN DISTRICTS OF ZHYTOMYR OBLAST AS WELL.
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
es and the public. Also, he said that Zhytomir Oblast State
By the evening, aggressively minded local residents, whose
Administration initiated to declare Olevsk District as a zone
number was constantly growing, began gathering at the
of ecological disaster due to illegal extraction of amber.
subunit. At about 11.30 p.m., “men heated with alcohol”
On the same day, a large group of journalists, a group
started throwing stones at the subunit and breaking the
of activists “AutoMaidan” visited the largest site of illegal
fence. According to the agency, there emerged a real
extraction of amber 30 km away from Olevsk.
threat to the lives and health of the border guards and the
A journalist Denis Kazanskij reported about this on
representatives of Ministry of the Interior and Prosecutor’s
Facebook, “We were going in a motorcade with Auto-
Office, a threat to seize the weapons and official prop-
Maidan. We hit upon bandits’ camp in a forest near
erty. “In order to stop further negative development of
Olevsk; behind the fence, there was a town of wooden
events and in accordance with the legislation of Ukraine,
buildings. According to local people, during the “best”
law enforcement officials were forced to use weapons,”
days there are up to 1000 workers. But all the dwellers ran
stated the State Border Service. Instigators were detained
away before our arrival and removed security checkpoints
by the police. http://dpsu.goc.ua/
as well as managed to evacuate excavators and almost all
The channel for illegal export of
machinery. We managed to take photos just of military
amber to China, which was under control by the employ-
trucks. It is interesting why they are not on the front?”
ees of Odessa customs, was blocked by the Security Ser-
vice of Ukraine together with the border guards.
“The border guards of the check-
“One of the organizers of the fraud was an employee
point “Kiev” prevented the attempt to smuggle 14 kg of
of the risk analysis and counter customs violations of Odes-
raw amber from Ukraine,” informs the press-service of the
sa Customs. By taking the advantage of their official posi-
State Border Service of Ukraine.
tion, the malefactor organized the illegal export of large
“According to available operative information, the bor-
amounts of amber from the territory of Ukraine through
der guards together with the representatives of the Fiscal
the checkpoint “Airport Odessa”.
Service initiated a thorough inspection of luggage of two
Amber was being exported in batches of 100–200 kil-
Chinese citizens, students of a Ukrainian university, who
ograms several times a week, mostly by citizens of China.
were following the route Kiev – Moscow – Beijing,” says
The “customs officer” provided them a smooth passing
the message. Bags with raw amber which the passengers
through customs and border controls for a fee of 130 US
tried to hide from customs control were found in hand lug-
dollars per kilogram,” is written in the report.
During a special operation, the employees of the
03/07/2015. When speaking at a regional meet-
Security Service of Ukraine detained a citizen of China
ing with the law enforcement agencies in Lviv, the Presi-
who was trying to export illegally 80 kilograms of amber
dent of Ukraine Petro Poroshenko gave “persons of force”
from Ukraine with the assistance of the customs officer –
two weeks to resolve the issue of illegal extraction of
amber in the country. “I am giving the “persons of force”
In the village of Olevsk, Zhytomyr
two weeks to eliminate “protection racket” in the sites of
Oblast, a deputy of the City Council and activist Aleksandr
the extraction of amber,” said the President.
Nikolaichuk, who fights against a massive illegal mining of
He noted that if the situation did not change, he
amber and helped journalists to make a material about “the
would personally go to one of the three regions, i.e. Rivne,
republic of amber”, was beaten with reinforcement rod.
Volyn or Zhytomyr, where amber is extracted and would
At the checkpoint of Uzhhorod in
show how and who “protects racket” of noncompliance
Zakarpattia Oblast, 82 kg of smuggled amber were found
in the truck cab.
In Rivne Oblast, Lutsk border
15/07/2015. Within the day, the employees of the
guard officers prevented the attempt of illegal extraction
department of the Border Service “Shehyni” found caches
of amber 2 km away from the border of the state and
with raw amber twice during the inspection of vehicles.
detained seven people who were extracting amber ille-
The residents of Lviv Oblast tried to deliver the stone to
gally with a motor pump. According to the information
neighbouring Poland. Caches with the packets of amber
given by the agency, the tractor, the motor pump and the
were set in the constructions of vehicles. However, men
detainees were taken to the border subunit “Kamenny”.
failed to export the stones abroad as masked caches were
grams of amber and the equipment for its illegal mining. http://www.sbu.gov.ua/
problem of illegal mining of amber is only possible provided that there will be introduced bills which provide the implementation of artisanal mining in the places of occurrence of amber which do not have any commercial significance
In Chernivtsi Oblast, the employ-
ees of the tax militia found the underground workshop for processing amber. During the search of the workshop, processed and raw amber was found. In addition, there were found six machines for its processing. The total amount of the seized makes one and a half million hryvnia. http://censor.net.ua/p345896
At the checkpoint “Shehyni”, Lviv
Oblast, border guards prevented one more attempt found by a joint inspection group of the border and cus-
to export amber from Ukraine illegally. On the eve, the
officers of operative subunits of the State Border Service
18/07/2015. According to the press-service of the
received information on a possible cross-border transpor-
State Border Service, the State Border Service of Ukraine
tation of a large batch of amber. At about midnight, law
surveyed 373 km of rear sections of the border areas of
enforcement officers were implementing the measures of
Lutsk and Zhytomyr districts using small aircraft and found
control at the checkpoint and paid attention to two vehi-
four sites of illegal mining of amber. http://dpsu.gov.ua/
cles of foreign registration following the exit from Ukraine
22/07/2015. As informs the press-service of the
along the lane “green corridor”. The vehicles were driven
Security Service of Ukraine, in order to counter the ille-
by the citizens of Ukraine, the residents of Lviv Oblast. Dur-
gal extraction of amber, the Security Service of Ukraine
ing the visual inspection, it was realized that the boots of
together with the militia and the prosecutor’s office car-
both vehicles were loaded with plastic bags. As a result of
ried out six searches in the homes of residents of Olevsk
the inspection, 150 kilograms of raw amber were seized.
District in Zhytomyr Oblast who executed massive buying
of the stone mined illegally.
Now, the reports about the fight
It is stated in the report that there were seized
against illegal mining and smuggling of amber look like the
approximately 80 kilograms of amber, two motor pumps,
reports from the front. The tension is increasing, and one
165 metres of fire hoses, “black bookkeeping” and the
more month is still left to the beginning of the third session
machine for processing of stones. http://www.sbu.gov.ua/
of the Verkhovna Rada which is planned to consider the
In Volodymyrets District, Rivne
second edition of the law “For the extraction and realiza-
Oblast, militiamen were resisted by local miners who were
tion of amber”. A hot month of August…
extracting amber illegally. The crowd dispersed after the militiamen had used weapons charged with 12-milimeter
rubber bullets. http://www.mvs.gov.ua/
29/07/2015. In Dubrovytsia District, Rivne Oblast,
Capital Kiev Official language Ukrainian Currency Ukrainian hryvnia (UAH) Time zone CET (UTC+2) – Summer (DST) CEST (UTC+3) Area 603,628 km2 Population (2015) 44 429 471 Government Unitary semi-presidential constitutional republic President Petro Poroshenko Prime Minister Arseniy Yatsenyuk GDP (PPP) Per capita (2013) 7 498 EUR Belarus Ethnic groups 77.8 % Ukrainians 17.3 % Russians 4.9 % others Largest cities Poland Kiev 2 814 258 UKRAINE Kharkiv 1 441 622
there were clashes between the militiamen and those who extract amber illegally. 12 people were detained. http://www.mvs.gov.ua/
29/07/2014. In the outskirts of the village of Hulyanka, Korosten District, an interdepartmental raid group of law enforcement officers detained 24 people who were engaged in illegal activities for extraction of amber. A pretrial investigation has been started. http://censor.net.ua/
The employees of the Security Ser-
vice of Ukraine together with the militia carried out a search in the accommodations of 10 residents of Olevsk District who were involved in illegal buying of amber. The Security Service of Ukraine seized more than 40 kilo-
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
ALL PARTICIPANTS OF AMBER MARKET IN UKRAINE ARE WELL AWARE THAT the solution to the
CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT
ATTENDANCE UP AT WORLD’S LARGEST JEWELLERY MARKETPLACE
Survey: Market Sentiment Good Despite Global Challenges Report by HKTDC Press Office
8 March 2015 – The world’s largest jewellery marketplace, formed by the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show and the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show ended today. Under the “Two Shows, Two Venues” arrangement for a second successive year, the two shows welcomed over 76,000 buyers from 140 countries and regions, up 2 per cent over last year. Nearly 30,000 buyers visited the Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show at AsiaWorld-Expo (2–6 March), while over 46,000 visitors attended the Jewellery Show at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (4–8 March). Both events are
ised and conducive to stone sourcing. Adrienne Dequarto,
the Director of Catalog Merchandising of Luxury Brand
“Despite the global economic challenge, the two
Holdings, which is also based in the US, highlighted that
shows recorded a slight increase in buyer attendance. It is a
the shows are important because they facilitate sourcing
very encouraging result. Attendance from some traditional
for the upcoming seasons and preview new trends, adding
markets even recorded double-digit percentage growth,
that; “we have fixed 50 appointments through HKTDC’s
such as the US, Italy, the UK and Japan. Attendance from
business matching service before coming to the show, and
certain emerging markets such as Thailand, Israel and
we have already bought samples for all our product lines.”
South Africa also recorded significant growth, reinforcing
The purchasing power of the emerging markets
Hong Kong’s position as a leading jewellery sourcing hub,”
should also not be ignored. Ayman M. N. Al Chaar, the
Benjamin Chau, HKTDC Deputy Executive Director, said.
owner of UAE-based Samer Jewellery, said he had placed onsite orders worth more than US$300,000. San Seyho,
the Director of Cambodia’s Chheng Hak Stone Diamond,
The HKTDC commissioned an independent agency to
noted that Cambodian consumers prefer high-end jew-
conduct onsite surveys during the two shows, interview-
ellery set with large diamonds as a sign of their wealth
ing 1,206 buyers and exhibitors about their views on mar-
and status. “We hope to find big diamonds, pearls, vin-
ket prospects, products and industry trends. The survey
tage diamond jewellery and uniquely designed jewellery
found that around 80 per cent of buyers expect steady or
at the two shows,” he said. “The Hong Kong International
increased overall sales this year. Over 60 per cent of buy-
Jewellery Show is huge, where buyers can find what they
ers and exhibitors expect retail prices to remain steady in
need. We plan to buy US$100,000 worth of jewellery at
order to remain competitive. Both buyers and exhibitors
the show to test our market.”
are optimistic about the growth potential of Hong Kong’s
Amid the economic uncertainties in Europe, there were
and the Chinese mainland’s jewellery markets, with most
some pleasant surprises at the fair. The Italian Jewellery
buyers and exhibitors considering the Chinese mainland a
Silverware and Watch Federation’s Chief Executive, Steven
key market to explore.
Tranquilli, revealed that the Italian retail market is recover-
In terms of product materials, the majority of buyers
ing, and consumers are favouring medium- to high-end
and exhibitors interviewed expect karat gold to be the
jewellery items. “The Federation will organise a delegation
most popular in 2015, including gold-karat white (48 %),
of about 50 Italian retailers to visit the two shows again
gold-karat yellow (32 %) and gold-karat rose (33 %). They
next year,” he said.
also predict that diamonds (50 %) will be the most popular gemstone this year, and one carat (48 %), round cut (45 %) and colourless (41 %) diamonds will lead the market. The majority of respondents consider jewellery shows in Hong Kong effective. Ninety one per cent of buyers and 93 per cent of exhibitors consider Hong Kong’s fairs a major channel to find new suppliers, while 79 per cent of exhibitors consider the fairs a key avenue to promote new products. The majority of respondents said the twin Hong Kong fairs are their must-attend trade show.
US, EUROPE MARKETS SHINE Buyers from the United States have continued to surge. The US Jewelry Importers and Manufacturers Association had organised 10 jewellery companies to visit the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show to buy diamonds and coloured stones. The Association’s President, Dagbjorn Johnson, considered the shows well organ-
CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT
organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
Official Price for raw amber by
Kaliningrad Amber Combine August 2015 AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size
Price/1 kg – EUR
2,5 gr. – 5 gr.
4gr. – 25gr.
50 gr. – 100 gr.
100 gr. – 200 gr.
200 gr. – 300 gr.
300 gr. – 500 gr.
* RUB/EUR exchange rate on 17th of August, 2015 - 1 Russian ruble = 0.013762212 Euros
August 2015 AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size
Price/1 kg – EUR
2,5 gr. – 5 gr.
5 gr. – 10 gr.
10 gr. – 20 gr.
20 gr. – 50 gr.
50 gr. – 100 gr.
100 gr. – 200 gr.
200 gr. – 300 gr.
300 gr. – 500 gr
FACTIONS 20–50G RAW AMBER PRICE CHANGE 2006 FERBRUARY – 2015 AUGUST
4300 3900 3500 3100 2700 2300 1900 1500 1100 700 300
If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: email@example.com
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber August 2015 AMBER FROM POLAND Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 kg – EUR
2,5 gr. – 5 gr.
5 gr. – 10 gr.
10 gr. – 20 gr.
20 gr. – 50 gr.
AMBER FROM UKRAINE Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 kg – EUR
2,5 gr. – 5 gr.
5 gr. – 10 gr.
10 gr. – 20 gr.
20 gr. – 50 gr.
50 gr. – 100 gr.
100 gr. – 200 gr.
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for Amber
Silver 925 Jewellery August 2015
Amber Silver 925 Jewellery
AMBER SILVER 925 JEWELLERY PRICE CHANGE AUGUST 2010 – MARCH 2015 EUR/gr
SILVER PRICE CHANGE 2010 AUGUST – 2015 AUGUST EUR per Ounce
If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: firstname.lastname@example.org
GOLD PRICE CHANGE 2010–2015
EUR PER TROY OUNCE
1,400 1,280 1,160 1,040 920 800
Q1 Q2 2010
Q1 Q2 2011
Q1 Q2 2012
Q1 Q2 2013
Q1 Q2 2014
About gold price drop on 20th July read pg. 4–7
Q1 Q2 2015
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Gold Price
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
Amber Chamber travels AROUND THE WORLD By Klimt02.net MORE THAN SOMETHING WASHED ASHORE Edmund Spenser once wrote his lover’s name in the sand at the shore, twice, but the waves washed it away. The waves also transform amber, which is soft, warm, and can be white, yellow, brown, black, or skin tone. Amber is an organic substance, sometimes opaque, other times translucent, revealing a glimpse of its interior, with wonderful inclusions of a forgotten time. It can be alluring, electric, and when its contact is desired, it has healing qualities. Spenser’s lover told him that he and his gesture were both vain and for naught, as both she and her name were ephemeral. Spenser responded that his verses would immortalize her virtues and inscribe her name in heaven. While jewelry makers may be forced to work with more mundane materials at their disposal, their works in amber need neither explanation nor interpretation: The effect is immediate. The philosopher Michel Foucault* declared the death of the object as the source and basis of knowledge, freedom, language and history, perceiving a danger that mankind would disappear like footprints in the sand. Spenser reaches a different conclusion: When death overtakes the world, our love lives on, and renews Helfried KODRÈ, brooch, Dimensions: 60 x 90mm, 2015 Media/Materials used: amber, silver Photographer: Helfried KODRÉ
the life that comes after it. This is why jewelry makers work with amber: For a sense of personal happiness, and for the well-being of the living. / Karl Bollmann
THE AMBER CHAMBER EXHIBITION TRAVELS TO LUXEMBOURG TO PRESENTS TEN RENOWN ARTISTS TAKING A FRESH LOOK ON AMBER
Heidemarie HERB, untitled, 2014, Rings Materials used: Amber, 925 Silver Photographer: by artist
This exhibition shows a number of different approaches to amber, running the gamut from artists working with amber for the first time, to those who have been working with it for an extended period. The contrasts in these works should help to update the traditional and still rather one-sided view of amber jewelry, showing new possibilities about this interesting material. *Michel Foucault, Les Mots et les choses. Une archéologie des sciences humaines, 1966, Dits et Écrits, 1994
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT Elisabeth DEFNER, Ring, 2015 Dimensions: 48 x 24 x 35 mm Media/Materials used: copper+silver, opal, amber Photographer: E. J. DEFNER
Herman HERMSEN, Mona, 2015, pendant/necklace Dimensions: 120 x 70 mm Media/Materials used: Amber, wood, photoprint on aluminium Photographer: Herman HERMSEN Christiane FOERSTER, no title, brooch, 2015 Dimensions: ca. 60 mm x 35 mm Media/Materials used: silver, mother of pearls, amber Photographer: Norman WEBER
Beate KLOCKMANN, “n.T.”ring, 2015 Dimensions: 25 x 25 x 40 mm Media/Materials used: Gold, Amber, Plastic Photographer: Beate KLOCKMANN
Elisabeth Defner Christiane Förster Heidemarie Herb Herman Hermsen Beate Klockmann Helfried Kodré Philip Sajet Peter Skubic Gisbert Stach Petra Zimmermann
Gisbert STACH, “Golden Toast 3”, 2013, brooch Dimensions: 110 x 105 x 18 mm Media/Materials used: Baltic amber, transparent silicon, stainless steel Photographer: Gisbert Stach
Legnica Jewellery Festival SILVER 2015, 28.04–07.06.2015, Legnica, PL Galerie Orfèo, 10.07–23.08.2015, Luxembourg, LU Velvet da Vinci, 01.10–31.10.2015, San Francisco, USA Alternatives Gallery, 05.03–01.04.2016, Rome, IT (AV 17) Gallery, 01.07–31.07.2016, Vilnius, LT Galerie V&V, 06.10–16.11.2016, Vienna, AT curated by Heidemarie Herb
AMBER FOR YOUR HEALTH
Albert BOGDASAROV, Brest Regional Department of Belarusian Geographic Society
Maxim BOGDASAROV, A. S. Pushkin Brest State University, Belarus Paper abstract of one of the key lectures in International
conference: “Amber in the history of medicine”, 14–17 September 2015, Kaliningrad
was in the 17th century that scientists for the first
Many prominent experts in medicine, biochemistry, physi-
time managed to extract amber acid by refining amber – a
ology, microbiolo-gy, pharmacology, ecology, botany, and
substance that is a nonspecific biostimulant having an anti-
mineralogy have contributed to studying the subject.
inflammatory and anti-stress effect. The journal of the Sur-
Today, it has been established that amber acid in
gical Academy in Paris in the 18th –19th centuries published
organism's cells functions as an energy substrate, and its
investigations on amber's curative prop-erties. Today, sci-
salts have an adaptogene property and have an antihypox-
entists have conclusively established that centuries-old ex-
ic, anti-stress and neurotropic action, they can regulate
perience of using amber in treatment intuitively emerged
energy and constructive metabolism and a general physi-
on quite a scientific foundation.
ological state of an organism. Amber acid boosts
Amber acid (butanedioic acid, ethane -1, 2- dicarboxylic
biochemical and physiological reconstructive processes
acid) HOOC-CH2-CH2-COOH – is a dibasic carboxylic acid;
in different organs under the conditions of abnormality
it is colourless or milk-white crystals. It is easily sublimable,
and strenuous exercise, it eliminates metabolic aci-dosis.
highly soluble in water – 6.8 g in 100 ml of water at 20 °C.
It can be used with curative purposes in case of the organ-
Its molecular weight is 118.1. The melting temperature is
ism asthenization and in combination with substances sup-
188 °C. Salts and ethers of amber acid are called succi-
porting metabolism, and also along with some medicines
nates. The term “succinate”, strictly speaking meaning the
to enhance their effect or to eliminate toxical side effects.
anion of the succinic acid, is often used in the popular sci-
In many countries, including Belarus, amber acid is on
ence literature as a synonym to the term "amber acid".
an international list of sub-stances permitted for use, and
Amber acid participates in the process of organism's
it is used as a nutritional supplement (E363). In re-cent
cellular respiration, being an important part of the tri-
years amber acid has been increasingly used in the agri-
carboxylic acids cycle, or the Krebs cycle – a central me-
culture – in dietary structure of animals and poultry, and
tabolism component, the main way of obtaining energy
in crop farming. Preliminary treatment of planting mate-
in the course of organic substrata oxidation, and a point
rial with amber acid solution or twofold watering of plants
of intersection of numerous metabolic ways. Add-ing suc-
in the course of their growth enhances plant resistance
cinate from the outside activates the Krebs cycle in com-
to adverse factors (drought, cold, lack of moistness, and
pliance with the Le Chatelier-Braun principle (if a system
insufficient lighting), reduces plant morbidity, increases the
being in a stable equilibrium is affected from the outside
chlorophyll content in leaves which is manifested in a more
that results in changing any equilibrium condition, the sys-
considerable growth and a yield increase.
tem en-hances the processes aimed at the compensation
Another natural medicinal drug from amber is amber
of an external action) that allows to speed up the process
oil. Chiefly due to its offen-sive odor, amber oil in its pure
of removal of underoxidized metabolic products.
form is not widely used in medical practice. How-ever,
The biostimulating properties of amber acid and its
combined with olive, apricot, and almond oil in the ratio of
derivatives are widely de-scribed in literature, the number
1 : 20 it is used in massage therapy, in preventive care and
of such publications has increased in the past dec-ades.
treatment of skin diseases.
AMBER FOSSIL LINKS EARLIEST GRASSES, DINOSAURS AND FUNGUS USED TO PRODUCE LSD S Report by OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY Press Office
ORVALLIS, Ore. – A perfectly preserved amber
grasses,” said George Poinar, Jr., an internationally recog-
fossil from Myanmar has been found that pro-
nized expert on the life forms found in amber and a faculty
vides evidence of the earliest grass specimen ever
member in the OSU College of Science.
discovered – about 100 million years old – and even then
“This is an important discovery that helps us under-
it was topped by a fungus similar to ergot, which for eons
stand the timeline of grass development, which now forms
has been intertwined with animals and humans.
the basis of the human food supply in such crops as corn,
Ergot has played roles as a medicine, a toxin, and a
rice or wheat,” Poinar said. “But it also shows that this
hallucinogen; been implicated in everything from disease
parasitic fungus may have been around almost as long as
epidemics to the Salem witch trials; and more recently pro-
the grasses themselves, as both a toxin and natural hal-
vided the hallucinogenic drug LSD.
Apparently both ergot and the grasses that now form
“There’s no doubt in my mind that it would have been
most of the diet for the human race evolved together.
eaten by sauropod dinosaurs, although we can’t know
And if they already seemed a little scary, imagine a
what exact effect it had on them.”
huge sauropod dinosaur that just ate a large portion of
Amber begins as a tree sap that can flow around small
this psychotropic fungus, which in other animal species
plant and animal forms and permanently preserve them,
can cause anything from hallucinations to delirium, gan-
as it fossilizes into a semi-precious stone. Poinar is a world
grene, convulsions or the staggers. The fungus, the grass-
leader in examining such specimens and using them to
es it lived on and dinosaurs that ate grass co-existed for
learn more about prehistoric ecosystems.
millions of years.
The fungus in this grass specimen, which is now extinct,
The findings and analysis of this remarkable fossil were
was named Palaeoclaviceps parasiticus. It’s very similar to
just published online in the journal Palaeodiversity, by
the fungus Claviceps, commonly known as ergot. The fos-
researchers from Oregon State University, the USDA Agri-
sil, taken from amber mines in Myanmar, dates 97–110 mil-
cultural Research Service and Germany.
lion years ago to the early-to-mid Cretaceous, when the
“It seems like ergot has been involved with animals
land was still dominated by dinosaurs and conifers, but the
and humans almost forever, and now we know that this
earliest flowering plants, grasses and small mammals were
fungus literally dates back to the earliest evolution of
beginning to evolve.
The fossil shows a grass floret tipped by the dark fungus. Much later in evolution, grasses would become a powerful life form on Earth, creating
vast prairies, nourishing herds of animals, and eventually providing for the domestication of range animals and the cultivation of many food crops. The rise of crop agriculture changed the entire development of the human race, and it’s now estimated that grasses compose about 20 percent of global vegetation. Researchers also noted in their report that “few fungi have had a greater historical impact on society than ergot.” Some grasses have natural defense mechanisms, and ergot may be one of them, helping to repel herbivores. It’s bitter and not a preferred food to livestock, and it’s still a problem in cereal and grass seed production, as well as pastures and grazing land. In animal and human history, the fungus has been known to cause delirium, irrational behavior, convulsions, severe pain, gangrenous limbs and death. In cattle it causes a disease called the “Paspalum staggers.” In the Middle Ages it sometimes killed thousands of people during epidemics when ergot-infected rye bread was more common. It’s been used as a medicine to induce abortion or speed labor in pregnant women, and one researcher – whose findings have been disputed – suggested it may have played a role in the Salem witch trials. More than 1,000 compounds have been extracted or derived from it, some of them valuable drugs. They also included, in the mid1900s, the powerful psychedelic compound lysergic acid diethylamide, or LSD, that is still being studied and has been widely used as an illegal recreational drug. Ergot is strange. And a very, very old fossil now makes clear that it’s been around about as long as grass itself.
Paleontologists are really pondering
THE QUESTION we never thought to ask: WERE DINOSAURS TRIPPING ON LSD? www.balticjewellerynews.com
Rubber mold are easy to be created by special resin print out
CHOOSE the best suitable 3D TECHNOLOGY By Adam KUCHARSKI – Rapid Prototyping Specialist In the rapidly growing sector of jewelry tools & machinery, 3D printing & designing technology appear more and more often. We can say that the interest and knowledge about the products in this field are growing and getting better every year. Professional jewelry designers and goldsmiths say that 3D designing CAD software like Gravotech’s 3Design Pro and Envisiontec 3D printers can revolutionize the jewelry sector all around the world.
3DESIGNING TECHNOLOGY FOR DESIGNERS
printer manufacturers and software
Young jewelry designers that are
providers, but it’s highly recommend
familiar with various digital environments
to check the market solutions because
are the most interested in the 3D design-
of the processing methods which every
ing programs. They just want to cross the
manufacturer provides. They are just
boundaries of their creativity abandon-
different and may not meet your our
ing hand crafted designing. It is getting
actual company’s needs.
You can choose from various 3D
simpler to create using such software.
Choosing your first 3D printer, you
The program simplifies the whole pro-
should look closely to the materials
duction of ready-to-go detail. We save
that the printer is operating with. We
our time – and as we all know – time is money. The total rapid prototyping technology increases the speed of the entire process, from designing to casting.
should avoid any plastics-material printOne of the professional DLP desktop machine guarantees best possible model quality
ers because the melting point of such materials is not high and it might even be dangerous for usage in casting pro-
The 3D printer itself is the main equip-
totypes in the casting process you should
ment for the 3D business, but designing
closely look how the desired technology
software to transfer projects into reality is
works in such conditions. The quality
needful, too. When you will be picking up
of printed-out prototypes is important
your first 3D CAD software we recommend
because reduces the post processing of
to seek advice of professional specialist in
your models. The costs per print are also
extremely important for overall profits,
First of all, the interface of the software
so it is crucial to choose consumables
must be easy to operate. The stones/pre-
optimized for the process. The training
cious materialsâ€™ libraries built-in in the pro-
and the support the producer or sup-
gram give useful jewelry designing experi-
plier provide, are not less important. It is
ence. Exporting the file to the formats like
strongly recommended to check out the
*.STL is the basic requirement, too. You can seek dealers selling a printer set coming
support before making a choice. Choosing among companies that have technical knowledge about all the stages of the production process is essential.
Entry-level printers are more and more popular just because of the price
with built-in designing software. Joining printer and designing software as a one set can be a hot deal â€“ with reduced price.
CHOOSING YOUR FIRST 3D PRINTER, YOU SHOULD LOOK CLOSELY TO THE MATERIALS THAT THE PRINTER IS OPERATING WITH. We should avoid any plasticsmaterial printers because the melting point of such materials is not high and it might even be dangerous for usage in casting processes.
cesses. If you are planning to use the pro-
Sample print-out made of direct casting resin
The price range of 3D printers for jewelry manufacturers starts from a few thousand of Euros up to tens of machine has to offer. As it was mentioned before – the
FFF, FDM. FUSED FILAMENT FABRICATION METHOD
printout excellence, speed of the building process, work-
Fused filament fabrication is a technology that is
ing field, cost and quality of consumables are the most
mostly used for DIY sector and small businesses. Every-
one who doesn’t need a high quality surface should meet
thousands Euros depending on various parameters the
the expectations. The method is based on a process that
TYPES OF 3D PRINTING TECHNOLOGY USED IN THE JEWELRY FIELD
involves melting ABS and building small areas, one next to
3D Printing is not a new technology, a fact worth
cool down they form elements.
another. Layers of plastic comes together and when they
noticing is that 3d printing was introduced in 1984. Since that day a wide range of technologies and materials the
DLP. DIRECT LIGHT PROJECTION METHOD
printers work with, has occurred. There are some meth-
Finally the method that provides the best quality, best
ods/technologies used now:
sharpness, and accuracy of the models now. Direct Light Projection uses LED light emitted by a projector – not a
SLA (ALSO KNOWN AS OPTICAL FABRICATION) RESIN LASER ACTIVATION METHOD
laser. This technology is mostly used in the jewelry branch because of its precision and quality of the details that
First technology introduced to the world in the jewelry
don't require complicated post processing. The resins used
field was the SLA – resin light curing. Laser controls the
during the process guarantee that the casting process will
beam of light to the place that needs to been harden. The
be easy and problem free.
process takes place in a liquid resin making one layer after
Reviewing the market of the jewelry rapid prototyp-
another and builds the model from ground up.
ing we come to a conclusion that designing software and 3D printers are gaining more attention. The global sale is
SLS, SLM. LASER BURNING AND MELTING METHOD
getting bigger and bigger year by year. We are in a point that this type of designing is stable and the entire process
Another type of technology used in jewelry sector is
simplifies the work of jewelers and goldsmiths all around
a selective method that takes places by burning and melt-
the world. The quality, especially of the jewelry DLP tech-
ing with the laser. (SLS , SLM). The printer starts from the
nology satisfies even the most demanding designers. Eve-
material powder creating thin layer in the working cabinet.
ryone who wants to be noticed in the market of jewelry
This method provides models that are suited extremely
designing and production should consider sooner or later
well for the casting process.
taking a step into rapid prototyping – into the future.
THE DATE OF PUBLICATION:
THE DATE OF PUBLICATION:
24 “black diggers” of amber were detained in Zhyto-
KALININGRAD. 24th of July. The police officers of
Kaliningrad confiscated more than 37 kilograms of amber
ZHYTOMYR. 30th of July. According to the regional
without documents from the offenders.
department of the Ministry of Interior of Ukraine, 24 peo-
According to the regional department of the Ministry
ple were detained by law enforcement officers for illegal
of Interior, the police officers of Svetly urban district per-
extraction of amber.
formed searches due to the investigation of the criminal
“On the 29 of July, in Korostenschina an interdepart-
case of the theft of jewelry worth a total of 480 thousand
mental raid group of law enforcement officers detained
Rubles. The theft was committed in one of private houses
24 people who had just started an illegal activity on the
in the village of Vzmorje. The police officers were checking
extraction of the solar stone in the region. A pre-trial
the likely places of buying and storing of stolen property.
investigation has been started,” says the message by the
As a result of the events, the police officers found and
law enforcement officers.
seized 37 kg 775 g of raw amber and 524 grams of amber
Among the detainees, there are the residents of the
production in the house of a 52-year-old resident. How-
oblasts of Zhytomyr, Rivne, Chernihiv and Kiev, aged 17 –
ever, the owner was not able to provide any permits for
48. Criminal proceedings have been started due to the fact
valuable digging and licenses for its treatment.
of the attempts to violate the rules of protection or use of
An administrative protocol was made for the offender
the resources. Clarification of all the circumstances of the
according to the article 7.5 of the Code of Administrative
case is being continued.
Violations (unauthorized extraction of amber). The appli-
It was reported earlier that on 29 of July local people
cation about the confiscation of seized raw material and
attacked the employees of the militia in the places of illegal
production has been directed to the court.
mining of amber in Rivne Oblast. Two militiamen and four
The resident of the village of Vzmorje is being checked
citizens were injured.
for the involvement in buying and treatment of property obtained in an illegal way.
THE DATE OF PUBLICATION:
THE DATE OF PUBLICATION:
VILNIUS, 27th of July. Lithuanian border guards and customs officers detained at 48 kilograms of amber the
KALININGRAD. 23rd of July. The police officers detained
checkpoint in Nida which were attempted to import to the
18 “black diggers” of amber in Kaliningrad Oblast.
country by a citizen of the Russian Federation.
Last Wednesday, i.e. on 22nd of July, the police officers
According to the data of BNS, the illegal cargo was
of the Regional Department of Economic Security, SOBR
detected on Saturday during the inspection of the car
and the officers of the patrol police made massive raids.
Toyota Camry driven by a resident of Kaliningrad Oblast.
According to the regional department of the Ministry of
According to the Customs Department, undeclared raw
Interior, two motor pumps, five shovels and two axes were
amber was hidden in the spare tire and the car door.
seized from illegal miners in Zelenogradsky District.
The car of Russian citizen and raw amber, which is esti-
All offenders were taken to the Department of the
mated at almost 4 thousand Euro, were detained, there
Ministry of Interior of Russia in Zelenogradsky District
was made a protocol for a man for administrative offense,
where administrative protocols were made in respect of
for which he faces to be fined at the amount of from 2896
each of them due to the article 7.5 of the Code of Admin-
to 5792 Euro with the confiscation of the illegal cargo and
istrative Violations (unauthorized extraction of amber).
Copenhagen Jewellery and Watch Show Date: 21–23 August 2015 Venue: Lokomotivvaerkstedet, Copenhagen, Denmark www.cphjs.dk email@example.com Japan Jewellery Fair Date: 26–28 August 2015 Venue: Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center, Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com firstname.lastname@example.org Ambermart – International Amber Fair Date: 27–29 August 2015 Venue: Amber Expo, Gdansk, Poland ambermart.amberexpo.pl email@example.com The Norwegian Gold & Watch Trade Fair Date: 27–30 August 2015 Venue: Norway Trade Fairs and Thon Hotel Arena www.gull-og-ur-messe.no firstname.lastname@example.org International Jewellery London Date: 6–8 September 2015 Venue: Olympia, London, United Kingdom www.jewellerylondon.com email@example.com JOGS Fall Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 7–10 September 2015 Venue:Tucson, USA jogsshow.com firstname.lastname@example.org Iberjoya Date: 9–13 September 2015 Venue: Feria de Madrid, Madrid, Spain www.ifema.es/madridjoya_01 email@example.com 56th Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair Date: 10–14 September 2015 Venue: Impact Exhibition and Convention Center, Bangkok, Thailand bangkokgemsfair.com firstname.lastname@example.org Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Date: 15–18 September 2015 Venue: AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong SAR www.asiafja.com email@example.com
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 16–22 September 2015 Venue: the AsiaWorld-Expo (AWE) and the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (HKCEC). www.jewellerynetasia.com firstname.lastname@example.org JUNWEX Moscow Date: 30 September – 4 October 2015 Venue: All Russian Exhibition Center, Moscow, Russia www.restec.ru/junwex email@example.com
JUNWEX Date: 3–7 February 2016 Venue: ExpoForum Convention and Exhibition Centre, St. Petersburg, Russia eng.rjexpert.ru firstname.lastname@example.org Signature Mumbai 2016 Date: 5–8 February 2016 Venue: Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India www.iijs-signature.org email@example.com
Gold Silver Time Date: 1–3 October 2015 Venue: Warsaw, Poland www.zlotosrebroczas.com firstname.lastname@example.org
The Jewellery Show Date: 7–11 February 2016 Venue: Birmingham, United Kingdom www.jewelleryandwatchbirmingham. com email@example.com
Intergem Date: 2–5 October 2015 Venue: Messe Idar-Oberstein, Idar-Oberstein, Germany www.intergem.de firstname.lastname@example.org
Istanbul Jewelry Show Munich Date: 12–15 February 2015 Venue: Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo), Istanbul, Turkey www.ubmrotaforte.com email@example.com
Istanbul Jewelry Show October Date: 15–18 October 2015 Venue: Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo), Istanbul, Turkey www.ubmrotaforte.com firstname.lastname@example.org
Inhorgenta Munich Date: 12–15 February 2016 Venue: Messe Munchen, Munich, Germany www.inhorgenta.com email@example.com
Gold Silver Watch Date: 16–18 October 2015 Venue: Helsinki Exhibition and Convention Centre, Helsinki, Finland http://www.messukeskus.com firstname.lastname@example.org
HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show Date: 3–7 March 2016 Venue: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong SAR www.hktdc.com/fair/hkjewellery-en email@example.com
Gemworld Munich 2015 Date: 30 October – 1 November 2015 Venue: Munich Trade Fair Center, Munich, Germany munichshow.com firstname.lastname@example.org Jeweller Expo Ukraine Date: 12–15 November 2015 Venue: Kyiv Expo Plaza Exhibition Center, Kiev, Ukraine www.jewellerexpo.kiev.ua email@example.com Mineralien Hamburg Date: 4–6 December 2015 Venue: CCH – Congress Center Hamburg, Germany mineralien-hamburg.de firstname.lastname@example.org
XII International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” Date: 9–12 March 2016 Venue: Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva, Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com email@example.com AMBERIF International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 16–19 March 2016 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.mtgsa.com.pl firstname.lastname@example.org
MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS
MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS in August 2015 – March 2016
FLASHBACKS from the AMBER TRIP “GIPSY PARTY”
Audrius Lukauskas with wife “A. Lukausko įmonė”
Ulf Erickson with wife, “Ribnitzer BernsteinDrechslerei GmbH”
Krszysztof Lejkowski with wife “Argentyt”
Raimondas Monkevičius with son UAB “Amber Tree”
Ilona Selyankina with husband “Geliotis”
Nina Litvinenko “Goldpack”
Ina Michnovič UAB “Saniston Baltic”
Jekaterina Baratyjanc and Marina Praded AB “ Juvelirprom”
Slawek with Irina and Zhana Brodestky
Vilia and Soren Ferhn
Gintaras Jonas Žukauskas with falimy “Silver Amber”
Choose your company's advertisment in “Baltic Jewellery News“ 2nd cover page 3nd cover page 4th cover page Last inside page instead Banner in the www.balticjewellerynews.com
1500 EUR 1500 EUR 2000 EUR 700 EUR 70 EUR / 1 month
Technical Requirements for the advertisement artwork All images shall be of 300 dpi resolution to achieve the required sharpness and be converted into CMYK format: • Formats of the pixel files & logos: TIFF, CDR, PDF. • All vector graphics shall be converted into curves. • The text shall be at a distance of 10mm. from the crop marks.
One page Bleed (with edges) 220x307 mm Before edges 210x297 mm
1/4 of page Bleed (with edges) 110x150 mm Before edges 100x140 mm
1/2 of page Bleed (with edges) 220x150 mm Before edges 210x140 mm
1/6 of page Bleed (with edges) 220x60 mm Before edges 210x50 mm
1/2 of page Bleed (with edges) 115x307 mm Before edges 105x297 mm
1/4 of page Bleed (with edges) 220x80 mm Before edges 210x70 mm
1/6 of page Bleed (with edges) 110x110 mm Before edges 100x100 mm
1/8 of page Bleed (with edges) 60x70 mm Before edges 50x60 mm
Layouts are to be sent by e-mail: email@example.com
It is strongly recommended that your artwork meets all above said requirements!
LET’S PROMOTE AMBER TOGETHER SHARE WITH US YOUR STORY!
SO MANY EXHIBITIONS! SO MANY STANDS! HOW CAN A BUYER SEE YOU? BE VISIBLE! BE WITH THE BALTIC JEWELLERY NEWS!
“Baltic Jewellery News” / Paplaujos str. 5–7, LT-11342 Vilnius, Lithuania / Tel./Fax +370 5 260 84 95 / E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
Company name Address (Street, city, country, post code)
Tel. Fax Mob. Tel.
Product index (please, choose): amber jewellery, silver jewellery, gold jewellery, gemstones, semi – precious stones, equipment, others
Name of service
Price without VAT 1m² (EUR)
Desirable area in the show with a standard stand’s equipment (minimum 6 (six) sq.m.)
Obligatory record in the show’s catalogue
Sum without VAT (EUR)
Sum by words Data
UAB “AMBER TRIP” Company code 124044853, VAT code LT240448515 Paplaujos str. 5–7, LT-11342 Vilnius, Lithuania Tel./Fax +370 5 260 84 95 email@example.com www.ambertrip.com
(Position, name, last name, signature)
XIII INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW
9-12 MARCH, 2016 VILNIUS, LITHUANIA
Tel./Fax +370 5 2608495 firstname.lastname@example.org www.ambertrip.com
Photo: Fa. Hans D. Krieger, Idar-Oberstein â€“ Paraiba-Rings
t ve ke ! Sa tic now e li n nt o n co u s di
Meet the international Gemworld in Munich.
Europeâ€˜s top show for gems & jewellery in autumn. www.gemworldmunich.com
Published on Aug 23, 2015
Baltic Jewelllery News – 100 page magazine published in English, since 2005 and distributed in the whole Baltic Sea Region countries: Lithua...