Volume 59 jun/jul/aug 2018
shore lines prodigy super foods niseko come backs #cliff edge tomahawk
B I A S A G R O U P. C O M | B A L I S E M I N Y A K - S A N U R - U B U D - B A T U B E L I G | J A K A R T A K E M A N G
匀漀 洀愀渀礀 瘀椀氀氀愀猀Ⰰ 猀漀 氀椀琀琀氀攀 琀椀洀攀⸀
圀攀ᤠ氀氀 栀攀氀瀀 礀漀甀 ǻ渀搀 琀栀攀 瀀攀爀昀攀挀琀 瘀椀氀氀愀 眀眀眀⸀洀椀渀椀猀琀爀礀漀昀瘀椀氀氀愀猀⸀挀漀洀
䔀堀倀䰀伀刀䔀 䤀一䐀唀䰀䜀䔀 刀䔀䰀䄀堀 刀䔀吀刀䔀䄀吀
倀伀圀䐀䔀刀 倀伀圀䐀䔀刀 伀一匀䔀一 伀一匀䔀一 倀䄀刀吀夀 倀䄀刀吀夀 刀䔀倀䔀䄀吀 刀䔀倀䔀䄀吀
THE WARUNG AT ALILA VILLAS ULUWATU The Warung presents wholesome traditional Indonesian and Balinese fare. Indoor and outdoor dining is provided in this welcoming yet sophisticated space. The friendly and convivial atmosphere enables diners to have a casual, laidback experience, whether they choose to interact with other guests at the communal tables or opt for the more private tables for two dotted around the restaurant. Poised on an elevated plateau that meets with limestone cliffs sweeping down to the ocean, the view from the Alila Villas Uluwatu is nothing less than picture-perfect. Rediscover the joy of pure relaxation in unparalleled comfor t and space in each of our exquisitely designed Bali luxury villas. Surrender yourself to the enchantment of Baliâ€™s beauty and serenity in the luxury of flawless perfection. www.the-warung.com
ALILA VILLAS ULUWATU . BALI
ALILA UBUD . BALI
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SELF-STYLED HOLIDAYS AT ALILA BEST RATES + PRIVILEGES Bali offers a spellbinding mix of relaxation and adventure, history and culture, age-old traditions and modernity. Discover its many unique sides in one complete experience with Alila. Style your travels any way you want, encompassing a stay in any or all of our four hotels in Bali....
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WELCOME TO MYWARUNGÂ®, 5 DIFFERENT RESTAURANTS ACROSS BALI. EPIC FOOD, THE BEST COFFEE, HAPPY PEOPLE. PREMIUM MEATS & POULTRY, CURATED MOCKTAILS, COCKTAILS & WINES. TO CHECK EACH RESTAURANT MENU, PLEASE VISIT MYWARUNG.COM
MyWarung® Berawa Canggu 11 am - midnite Subak Sari 80, berawa 0823 3912 0880
MyWarung® Echo Beach 8 am - 10 pm Batu Mejan 78, Echo Beach 0822 6602 9978
MyWarung® Batu Belig 8 am - 11 pm Batu Belig 8A, seminyak 0812 3805 9687
MyWarung® Ubud 11 am - 11 pm Galleria Menara Ubud No 8 Jalan Raya Ubud, Gianyar 0813 3956 7708
MyWarung® pasar Petitenget 6 pm - midnite Lebak Sari 18A, Petitenget Seminyak 0822 3500 5718.
coming soon Harmoni, Central Jakarta Menteng , Central Jakarta Yogyakarta
Volume fifty nine jun/jul/aug 2018
The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds, Agustina Ardie, Michelle Lamb Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Sales & Marketing Shanty Wijaya, Amik Suhartin Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika, Made Rekayasa, Kadek Eri Publisher PT. L.I.P Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011
Cover by Sebastiano Navarro Upcoming exhibition in singapore in JULY / AUGUST
Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 0851 0043 1804, 0851 0043 1805, 0851 0043 1796 email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org Snail Mail & Walk Ins The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia
Silent Cities @ www.miajagallery.com Insta: SEBNAVARRA.ART
OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors. Check us out online, we’re awesome (if we do say so ourselves). Peace.
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Hope & Hospitality
dates with destiny
new in the hood
out of the box
Stuff Of Champions
Ashes and Earth
Pan Trinity Daz
Liza and Quino
Dusk Till Dawn
INSPIRED BALINESE ELEGANCE ON KUTA BEACH
contents Omnibus, page 84: return of the jedi
Henry's Grill and Bar
Bali Good Food
The Yak Golf 5.0
Tomorrow Never Dies
taken not stirred
Azul Beach Club
yakbak According to a recent article from Business Insider “the consumer trusts print ads more than those in other media”. Those ‘other media’ being TV, mobile devices and web browsers. In fact to quote some interesting stats from a digital marketing survey by Kristen Herhold from Clutch, “1. Advertisements influence 90% of consumers to make a purchase. 2. Consumers make purchases after seeing or hearing an advertisement on TV (60%); In print (45%); Online (43%) and on Social Media (42%)”. So we, here at The Yak are thrilled that you, both readers and advertisers, are definitely on a win-win when being part of The Yak family and holding this remarkable magazine in your hands. Trustworthiness of advertising mediums in the same survey ran thus: TV/Broadcast – 61%; Print – 58%; Radio/Podcast – 45%; Out of Home (billboards/public transport) 42%; Online – 41%; Social Media – 38%. Yes, trust is always an issue and, since we live and breathe Bali and have done so for a total sum of over a century or more, we do feel that we are beautifully positioned to bring you the latest in luxury lifestyle (and introduce you to the edgy creatives) that this gorgeous island has to offer, as always – Yak Style! Opening up our Issue #59 you will of course find some spectacular advertising – chic, luxurious and enticing. From villa purveyors, fashion, jewelry and outstanding eateries to beach, cliff and nightclubs, salons and surf brands, all inviting you to enjoy Bali at her best. We walk you through the who-is-who in our New In The Hood and what-is-hot in our Out of The Box. Then by meeting some of the most creative and outstanding gens du jour in our People segment, you will know that you really are one amongst a unique tribe that treads these not-so-golden sands. Meet Sinta and Tom sending us their Ashes and Earth with love from Berlin. Then, hand out for a meet and greet with Venus, Neil McLellan – producer of The Prodigy, artist Pan and our favourite cold-temptation creators, the Paletas Wey couple, Quino and Liza. Jil and Georgia are up next with full on, yet gentle female power, and last but in no way least, meet Yak hero, Justin Hall, who pops in to the island from time to time when saving the world permits! Trust and luck are definitely up next, with a Dusk 'til Dawn surf trip on less than reliable motorbikes followed by our renowned, graphically retro-futuristic scholarly piece, Omnibus – which in this issue is all about comebacks … one just has to trust in the process. Our Fashion feature, Shorelines goes full on Biasa – this Bali-born fashion brand has some of the most creative images in the business – and is styled by none other than #glamazoid and Bali maven, Angie Anggoro. Helping you plan ahead, this and next year are a must for skiers and snowboarders and we are recommending Niseko, Japan – we really should get Bali and said ski resort to “twin up” and that way we could have the best of the best worlds! Here’s the thing, if you can’t see an image of the beach or the cliff club you want to go to then you really wouldn’t know what it looked like until you got there. It could turn out to be great or hugely disappointing, the same goes for body pampering and taste bud fulfillment, wouldn’t you agree? So here at The Yak in this next section we have made the images big and in print so you can really see what you are choosing! We also digitize them for those of you on-the-go … Drawing to a close we say goodbye and invite you to get tipsy at teatime at Azul Beach Club before following our Yak-favoured, fashion brands, freestyle. And, a word of advice before you go and try all we have suggested, whether by article or by advertisement, do take a moment to read your AstroYak. As ever, may The Yak be with you! 20
Dear Yak, The social media response to The Yak promotion of my book (loved the music) has been great! Thanks so much. I’m thinking of taking the plunge and placing an ad for both GMA and the book in Yak in the coming months. Regards, Guy B Morgan www.guymorganarchitects.com www.ecovillagedevelopments.com
Dear Yak, Loved your feature on Sebastiao Salgado, one of my all-time heroes and a master of photography in every sense. And what a surprise he has links to Bali! Amazing. This island truly is blessed to attract some of the most creative minds in the world. Best regards, Dominic Starkey Hunstanton UK
Oh we do love a happy customer. By the way the book is called Building Your Bali Dream Villa and is available here www. vividpublishing.com.au/guymorgan/
Dear Yak, Thank you once again for a great issue [#58]. It's always nice to see someone taking care to produce something of such quality under what I would expect to be tricky circumstances on a tropical island. Well done! Regards, Alan Haynes St Tropez France
Dear Yak, Sorry I could not support your Yak golf day on Sunday last, as I was in Surabaya for Nyepi this year. Heard that all was a successful day and I certainly will join for the next tournament in March, 2019. Admired your efforts to announce this March event, certainly the way to go. Best regards, Bruce Jellard Bali
Ah yes Alan, there are the occasional electrical brown outs, the traffic problems, of course, the slow internet . . . but then think of the upsides. Sun! Sand! Sea! Cold Beer! (hic).
Our next golf event is July 14 at Bali National Golf Resort. We shall see you on the tee sir!
In The Lap Of: Anthony Bourdain Our all-time favourite food writer and broadcaster Anthony Bourdain headed to Bali to shoot more of the finger-licking local food he favours. Sadly he also got to experience Bali's latest dalliance with the traffic. "Stuck in traffic in Bali," he tweeted to his 7.4 million followers. "I think the Eat Pray Love bus tour might have broken down. Might be time to grab an order of Eat Pray Ribs at the joint nearby." Now we know of course he was talking about Naughty Nuri's . . . where we called ahead and made sure a copy of this organ was pressed into his kitchen-gnarled hands. Bon appétit.
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Bali Arts Festival The Bali Arts Festival is celebrating its milestone 40th edition this year, and you can be sure it’s going to be the most spectacular yet. The theme is Fire, the Spirit of Creation, which alludes to fire not only as a vital source of energy, but also as a driving force that burns within. Beginning with the grand opening parade in Denpasar’s Puputan Renon Square, the days between June 16th and July 14th will be filled with brilliant displays of creativity both traditional and modern including dance performances, gamelan orchestras, shadow puppet shows, sculpture exhibitions, documentary films and photography competitions to name just a few. Even better, nearly all the events are free. www.baliartsfestival.com
Sunny Side Up Tropical Festival Party people will be putting their hands up in the air this July 20th and 21st at the fifth annual Sunny Side Up Tropical Festival, a fabulous two-day event that combines music, art, and sustainability next to the Indian Ocean at Potato Head Beach Club. Festival-goers come from far and wide to experience this one-of-a-kind fete featuring stellar line-ups of local and international DJs, vocalists and bands that have included the likes of Mark Ronson, Disclosure, Ellie Goulding and Flight Facilities in the past. In addition to killer rhythms and beats, this year’s edition will feature eco-minded art installations and a popup merchandise store. www.sunnysideupfest.com
MEKEPUNG BUFFALO RACES Unique to Bali’s wild west, the Mekepung buffalo races are a lively spectacle of sport and culture where farmers show off the power and speed of their water buffalos, as well as their own racing skills. The races begin on the morning of July 15th and will take place every second Sunday until the Jembrana Cup finals on November 18th. On race days farmers adorn their buffalos with ornate accessories, hitch them up to wooden chariots, and spur them on from behind around various circuits. Festivities following the races include buffalo ‘fashion’ parades, traditional dances with bamboo orchestras, and plenty of feasting and imbibing.
2018 Asian Games August 18th marks the start of the 18th Asian Games, and for the first time ever it will officially be co-hosted in two cities: Jakarta and Palembang in Sumatra. Running until September 2nd, the Games will feature 462 events in 40 sports ranging from cycling to sailing, baseball, boxing, karate and roller sports. The majority of events will take place at venues in Jakarta and Palembang, while a few will draw in the crowds at additional venues around West Java including men’s football matches in Bandung and Bogor. As for the athletes, they’ll be put up in the new Athlete’s Village in Kemayoran, Jakarta, which offers accommodation for a whopping 22,000 athletes. www.asiangames2018.id
IF YOU’RE IN NEW ZEALAND… June 30 to July 22 — Matariki (Māori New Year): When the Matariki cluster of stars (also known as Pleiades) rises in the New Zealand skies, it signifies the beginning of a new year and a time for celebration all over the islands. Historically this was a time for Māori families and communities to come together and share food, entertainment and hopes for the year ahead. Although the celebrations dwindled in the1940s, the 21st century has seen a revival throughout the country. The biggest celebrations take place in Auckland where the Matariki Festival includes over 100 events highlighting Māori culture through visual arts, theatre, dance, music, food, workshops and discussions.
July 12 to July 14 — NOS Alive (Lisbon): Often ranked as one of the best summer music festivals in Europe, NOS Alive is a three-day extravaganza of indie, rock, alternative, and hip hop music on the Oeiras coast just outside of Lisbon. The festival kicks off on July 12th with Arctic Monkeys as the opening headliners followed by Nine Inch Nails, Snow Patrol and Khalid. The following days will see the stages lit up with superstar performers like Pearl Jam, Queens of the Stone Age, Wolf Alice and Jack White. Tickets are available for one, two and all three days with accommodation packages at hostels, hotels and campgrounds up for grabs.
August 10 to August 11 — Beervana (Wellington): All hail the hoppy drop at Beervana, New Zealand’s biggest and most boisterous beer festival. Held at Westpac Stadium in Wellington over two days, the festival offers punters the chance to sample some of the most innovative craft beers coming out of breweries from all corners of the country. Besides serving up over 200 varieties of icy cold brews, the festival will also feature interactive themed bars where you can grab colourful beer cocktails, silent discos and food stalls serving up great pub-style grub to soak up the suds. Cheeseburger spring rolls anyone?
IF YOU’RE IN MALAYSIA… July 13 to July 15 — Rainforest World Music Festival (Sarawak, Borneo): What started in 2005 as a small music festival in a Sarawak rainforest with just 300 people in attendance has now grown into the internationally recognized Rainforest World Music Festival, which attracts over 20,000 music aficionados from around the world. Taking place at the Sarawak Cultural Village at the base of Mount Santubong, this annual three-day event focuses on traditional and contemporary world music. Artists come from places as farflung as Malaysia, Mongolia and Madagascar to put on music workshops and cultural displays by day, then perform on the two main stages by night.
IF YOU’RE IN PORTUGAL… June 1 to June 30 — Festas de Lisboa (Lisbon): There’s no better time to visit Lisbon than the month of June when the streets heave with parties and processions celebrating the numerous saint’s days that take place nearly every week. The biggest celebration by far is on June 13th to pay homage to Saint Anthony, the patron saint of Lisbon and marriages. The festivities start with a collective wedding and a massive parade that makes it way through the old neighbourhoods. Then it’s on to fireworks by the river, street eats like roasted sardines and pork, free-flowing beer and sangria and singing and dancing sessions that carry on until dawn.
August 4 to September 2 — George Town Festival (Penang): The UNESCO World Heritage site of George Town in Penang is one of the most vibrant multicultural cities in the world, and the annual George Town Festival celebrates the creativity that comes out of this fabulous mish-mash of cultures with an entire month of traditional and contemporary arts. On any given day or night throughout August you can expect to stumble across thought-provoking photography and painting exhibitions, mesmerising theatre and dance performances, eye-popping street art displays and concerts taking place around every corner. And being the world-renowned street food haven that it is, George Town will have no shortage of fab hawker fare on offer.
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SUMBA HOSPITALITY FOUNDATION Say what you will about the evils of tourism, but it really can be a godsend for impoverished regions. Sumba is one such place. Situated in the Lesser Sunda Islands chain, this rugged island is one of the poorest in Indonesia and is often bypassed by tourists seeking holidays in more developed destinations. However, this is slowly changing as more travellers hear word of Sumba’s incredible beaches, epic surf breaks and unique culture. And with visitors on the rise, so too are the opportunities for Sumbanese people. The Sumba Hospitality Foundation was established to provide underprivileged Sumbanese youth with the training they need to secure jobs in the tourism industry and create new employment opportunities around the island. The foundation also aims to raise the student’s awareness of their responsibility to protect their environment and culture in the hopes that Sumba will grow to be a shining example of sustainable tourism development. Set on a sprawling plot of land surrounded by greenery, the SHF hotel school was built entirely out of bamboo and includes full boarding facilities for students and teachers, open-air classrooms, a fully equipped professional kitchen, a spacious restaurant and bar and a small eco-resort, all powered by solar energy. There is also a large permaculture garden that provides fresh produce for the restaurant and allows students to learn farming techniques to better cultivate their land. The school curriculum focuses not only on hospitality training, but also sustainable tourism, environmental awareness and personal development. The five guest cottages and the restaurant give students the chance to practically apply their theoretical knowledge in housekeeping, room service, bartending, food preparation and food costing. The students are also given the opportunity to finish their one-year program with an internship at a five-star hotel or restaurant. Although the income from the hotel, restaurant and organic farm will enable the school to be self-sufficient in the future, donations are always appreciated. A stay at the resort or a meal at the restaurant not only provides money for the programmes, but also invaluable experience for the students. Donations can also be made to sponsor students or contribute to educational or medical supplies for the students and the foundation’s community projects. www.sumbahospitalityfoundation.org BALI STREET KIDS PROJECT Spend time in any of Bali’s larger tourist centres and you will inevitably come across small children begging or selling bracelets in the streets. Many come from poor villages and are sent away to earn money for their families or they are simply abandoned. More often than not, they have no proper shelter, care, schooling or medical attention. Abuse is often rampant and many street kids turn to crime, drugs or the sex trade later in life. Yayasan Kasih Peduli Anak (aka the Bali Street Kids Project) aims to change this. In 2007, Putu Etiartini and Michael Pate were alarmed with the growing number of street children in Kuta, so they set out to try and better understand their situations. The couple discovered that many came from impoverished areas in East Bali and were forced to beg by their parents and street ‘bosses’. Many of the children suffered from malnutrition and emotional stress due to abuse. They also discovered that what the children really wanted was to go to school.
The seeds for Yayasan Kasih Peduli Anak were planted when Putu and Michael began running informal school sessions for street children on Kuta Beach. It wasn’t long before they started taking in children who needed a place to sleep, healthy food and medical attention. Over the years the organisation grew with help from donations, and today YKPA houses 45 children in two orphanages in Denpasar and Tabanan. All the children go to school, and many have completed government equivalency testing. YKPA also organises outreach projects and collaborates with other NGOs to support disadvantaged children who have serious medical conditions and disabilities. Often the parents are unaware of the proper care or cannot afford to pay for the treatment. In those cases, YKPA invites the parents and child to stay at their facility in Denpasar and arranges all meals, transportation and the funds for the medical treatment. There are a number of ways you can support YKPA and help them provide Bali street children with loving support, education, care, and the skills they need to live satisfying and productive lives. General donations go towards school costs, medical care and food, and with each donation the team will let you know exactly what your funds were spent on. You can also opt to sponsor a child or visit their online shop to purchase fair trade dolls and accessories made by village moms. www.ykpa.org BREATH OF HOPE FOUNDATION Nestled in the peaceful village of Nyuh Kuning is a unique foundation and school that aims to empower children and communities through yoga and organic living. Founded by Therese Poulton—who has initiated yoga programmes in schools, orphanages and community centres around the world—the Breath of Hope Foundation works to advance the knowledge of the transformative benefits of yoga and create community-based programmes that stimulate a ripple effect from the child to the family, school and beyond. The Breath of Hope Foundation has worked extensively with victims of the 2004 tsunami in Indonesia and Sri Lanka, and their studies with trauma-affected children show that yoga can boost circulation, help balance the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems, and increase concentration and creativity. They also found that children who practiced yoga developed a greater sense of trust, gratitude and generosity. This research inspired them to create the Satyagraha Ashram for children. Situated on lush grounds surrounded by lofty trees and rivers, Satyagraha Ashram aims to give children tools to create healthy, self-sustaining lifestyles. Here children can join yoga classes to enhance the mind-body connection and learn about philosophy, meditation and breathing techniques. Teachers can take intensive yoga training courses to strengthen their sense of self and inspire them to nourish the potential in their students, and community yoga classes are open to all. Satyagraha Ashram also has weekly herbalism classes where little ones can learn about medicinal plants and how to grow organic food, and adults and children can join herbal walks with husband and wife team Made Westi and Wayan Lilir. For those who really want to immerse themselves in this healthy living haven, Lila Bamboo is a stunning three-bedroom villa that can be rented by the night with all proceeds going towards the foundation’s work. www.breathofhopefoundation.org
money josh fielding talks turkey in today’s internet age. Why do you want to make money? Beyond any other question in the world of investment and income generation, this is the one inquiry that rules the roost – and determines whether or not you will make the effort to do what it takes to bank cash. How is that? Well, think about it. If you set lifestyle goals and work backwards to figure out how you’re going to achieve them, you’ll soon realise that money-making for the sake of life experience is far more attractive than generating a vault of gold and locking it away. What if I told you – given our modern-day internet era – there is no good reason for you not to be making a healthy side-income? Imagine being at your desk and hearing your phone ping as you make another online sale from your hobby shop. Or execute another position trade … or even hit your first million followers on Instagram. It’s all possible – all you need to do is pinpoint those who have been successful, understand the market and then break it down into manageable steps that you can emulate. Think about the new frontier. Even though the internet has now been around for a solid 25 years, there has never been a better time to use it to make money. Today there are people running entire businesses from their smartphones; we have young mavericks set for life through early crypto currency investments. As I sit here writing this article in a modern co-working space in Seminyak, a mid-20s Russian guy is sitting next to me with four iPads in a row balanced on cardboard boxes, frantically tapping away at simultaneous poker games. Everyone has their hustle. First up: e-commerce. You may be thinking strictly of the likes of Amazon or eBay for your e-commerce needs, but the reach spreads much further. Etsy, the number one platform for the sale of hand made and artisanal goods, has exploded in the last five years, as well as platforms like Shopify, making online merchandising more accessible than ever before. We’re getting to a stage of web and online shopping where creating a shop will soon be as easy as point and click. So if you’re thinking that your premium-print origami sculptures should be shared with the world, create an Etsy profile or your own online shop. And think small – for starters at least. In 2006, a 26-year-old Montreal man managed to flip, in 14 trades, a paperclip into a house. How? He didn’t have a job, so instead of posting a resumé, he looked at a red paper-clip on his desk and decided to trade it on an internet website. He got a response almost immediately from a pair of young women in Vancouver who offered to trade him a pen that looked like a fish. He then bartered the fish pen for a handmade doorknob from a potter in Seattle. He traded the doorknob for a camp stove. He traded the stove to a U.S. marine sergeant in California for a 100-watt generator. In Queens, N.Y., he exchanged the generator for the “instant party kit” – an empty keg and an illuminated Budweiser beer sign. He then traded the keg and sign for a Bombardier snowmobile, courtesy of a Montreal radio host. He bartered all the way up to an afternoon with rock star Alice Cooper, a KISS snow globe and finally a paid role in a Corbin Bernsen movie called Donna on Demand. Now I’m sure the first question on your mind is, ‘Why would director Corbin 34
Bernsen trade a role in a film for a snow globe? “It was a KISS snow globe,” Paper Clip Guy told the world on his website. “Corbin happens to be arguably one of the biggest snow globe collectors on the planet.” Having heard about his quest, the town of Kipling, Sask., located about two hours east of Regina, Canada, and with a population of 1,100, offered Mr Paper Clip a farmhouse in exchange for the role in the movie, which they intended to use in a competition. Bizarre? Not these days. Back in the early years of eBay and e-commerce, something like this was virtually unheard of, but it’s now becoming more commonplace, with people beginning to put their cars and even homes up for online auction. As the world becomes more connected, the marketplace ‘friction’, the difficulty of buyers finding sellers and vice versa, decreases, meaning more flipping opportunities, but also more competition. So let’s say you want to work from home. While ‘work from home’ Fridays may be the highlight of some city people’s work-week, there are individuals, including myself, who are beginning to formulate a career plan specifically geared towards begin able to work from anywhere on the planet. The typical careers that offer these paths are programming, digital designing and content creation. But don’t be deterred if you don’t fit into these categories, there are more opportunities for remote work than I can count, as well as the possibility of making your current situation fit more towards your needs. It is estimated that by 2035, one in three of us will be a remote worker, either from practical business necessity or from a lifestyle choice. This shift in working styles is sure to create massive ripples across the entire economy. Pieter Levels, a 30-year old Dutch entrepreneur set himself a challenge in 2012 to create 12 startups in 12 months. While he didn’t complete his challenge, he managed to solidify himself as a thought leader in the ‘digital nomad’ space, as well as achieving a record £50,000 in monthly revenue from his remote businesses last month. Yoo-hoo! The social-media era has also opened up the world to the concept of ‘online influencers’, those people who are paid big money by advertisers to place their products inside their videos and social-media posts. As of now, the top platforms for generating money this way are Instagram, Twitch, Facebook and Youtube. Nervous about generating millions of followers and the requisite traction you’d need to attract the big bucks? Then think about Ryan ToysReview, a toy reviewing YouTube channel which managed to amass a cool $11 million dollars in revenue last year. It’s main star? Sixyear-old Ryan, who reviews everything from candy dispensers to 100+ model cars from the Disney franchise. [His biggest video todate –“Huge Eggs Surprise Toys Challenge” – has been viewed over 1.26 billion times as of April 2018]. In only three years, Ryan ToysReview has become the eighth highest grossing Youtube channel globally. So put those kids to work! And remember: the social media community continues to hunger for ever more specific content. So start to plan now, link it to a lifestyle choice, a dream or a goal ... and get busy. www.etsy.com www.shopify.com
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THE TRANS RESORT BALI Kerobokan - Seminyak, Bali 80361 Indonesia, T +62 361 8981234 | F +62 361 8981233 E email@example.com - www.transresortbali.com
MADE FOR LEGENDS Inspired by the raw power of Mother Nature, John Hardy’s current collection exudes emotion, meaning, colour and life. Each piece combines the purity of the raw and unrefined with the sophistication of handcrafted detailing. Influences are drawn from Bali’s sublime natural beauty including bamboo forests, meandering rivers and tiered rice terraces. Precious metals like gold and silver entwine, opaque gems mimic summer light, and bold stones are presented in their full and purest form to represent that which is carved by nature alongside that which is carved by man. Once again the master artisans have created an exquisite collection of one-of-a-kind pieces that truly are fit for legends. www.johnhardy.com
SUNNIES THAT GIVE BACK So much more than just a stylish sunglasses brand, Bambusee aims to create sustainable products with real social benefits. Each pair of Bambusee sunnies is handmade by local artisans with environmentally friendly materials like recycled teak and natural stone. Innovative and on-trend, these babies not only protect your eyes, but also help Indonesians who suffer from eye problems. Proceeds from each purchase go towards Bambusee’s projects with the Indonesian Eye Doctors’ Association and NGO Besi Pae. To date, they have helped facilitate over 2000 eye operations, the training of eye doctors, and the distribution of free glasses and sunglasses for those who cannot afford them. www.bambusee.com
Hill-Top Hedonism High in the hills amongst cool breezes and clouds, and recently rebranding from the Royal Tulip brand, is Saranam Eco Resort & Spa, and to quote more than one FB visitor it is “heaven on earth”. The coolest, head-to-the hills weekend getaway for over-heated Yakkers. From standard rooms all the way to a Royal Villa, there’s a room with a view for everyone. Best of all is the Bedugul Farmer’s Sunday Brunch with free access to the Kids Club and the spring fed swimming pool (@275k++/pax with kids up to 15 eating gratis!). Don’t forget to take up your canvas bags or wooden crates and fill them with lush organic vegetables and other goodies from the nearby Vegetable Market. Tel: +62 36821038 www.saranamresort.com
AYANA LAKO DI’A Leave it to AYANA to blow our minds yet again, this time with the launch of AYANA Lako Di’a, the world’s largest specially built Phinisi ship. Featuring nine luxurious cabins, the yacht offers five-star comfort at sea. The maiden voyage sets sail in July to cruise the crystal clear waters of Komodo National Park. Ports of call will include deserted beaches, secret dive spots, and the home of the legendary Komodo dragons. While onboard, guests can indulge in gourmet meals, fine wines and luxurious spa treatments. Aqua activities include SUP, yoga sessions, snorkelling, diving and trolling. Keep an eye out as well for AYANA Komodo Resort, the brand’s newest luxury resort set to open in September on postcard-perfect Waecicu Beach. www.ayana.com 38
The famous 1kg Henryâ€™s Tomahawk Steak is back. Now grilling in South Kuta. Lippo Mall Kuta, Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta, Badung, Bali 80361
Tel: +62 (0)361 475 4992
BIGGER IS BETTER Indonesia’s Aryaduta Hotel Group recently rocked up on South Kuta shores with the mantra ‘bigger is better’ in mind. The brand spanking new Aryaduta Bali boasts Kuta’s largest hotel rooms to date with 178 airy suites that are spacious enough to sleep families with up to two adults and two children. The hotel also has one of the biggest wedding chapels on the island, a gorgeous swimming pool and bar overlooking Segara Beach, and flexible conference and meeting spaces integrated with Lippo Mall. Fronting the mall you’ll also find Henry’s Grill & Bar, a two-storey eatery offering up tasty BBQ dishes, live sports on multiple screens, a pool table and pinball machine. Tel: +62 361 475 4188 www.aryaduta.com/aryaduta-bali-in-kuta/
LUXE LUNCHING Mozaic Restaurant Gastronomique in Ubud recently launched a new interactive lunch experience at The Workshop, and foodies couldn’t be happier. Located at the end of the Mozaic garden overlooking a panorama of rice paddies, The Workshop is a beautiful air-conditioned space usually reserved for Chef’s Table dinners and Mozaic’s prestigious cooking classes. Now daytime diners can enjoy five-course and seven-course lunches in the stylish dining room whilst watching the chef cook every course and explaining each step of the dishes as he prepares them. This gives an experience that is interactive, fun, informative, and delicious. Lunch is offered on Thursdays through Sundays, with reservations from 12pm to 2pm. Tel: +62 878 7888 7944 www.mozaic-bali.com
PARACHUTE BALI With a beautiful dining terrace and garden positioned under a massive 64-foot-wide vintage olive parachute that soars nearly 20 metres above the ground, Parachute is like no other eatery in Berawa, or Bali for that matter. Here chef Jacob Burrell has created an easygoing gathering place where diners can enjoy honest seasonal dishes on the terrace and from the in-house marketplace, bakery and tonic bar. A farm also factors into the equation so that the team can grow as much as they can on site, and what they can’t get from the garden they source from local farmers and fishermen. Adding to Parachute’s sustainable vision is a zero-waste food programme and community education initiatives. Tel: +62 813 3742 3010 www.parachutebali.com 40
CULINARY VOYAGES IN KOMODO Chef Marco Bertini is always raising the bar when it comes to contemporary Italian cuisine at MadeInItaly, his celebrated eatery in Labuan Bajo, Flores. Now he’s offering a whole new dining experience with culinary cruises that take diners around the Komodo archipelago on the stunning MadeInItaly boat. The journey begins winding through the Komodo islands with frequent stops so guests can swim and snorkel the clear waters and stroll along pristine beaches. As the sun starts to set, the seven-course meal begins on the bow of the boat with Italian finger food delicacies, followed by pasta, a main, and dessert. Cocktails and wines are available and add to the decadent dining experience. Tel: +62 385 244 0223 www.miirestaurants.com THE BAY BAR & GRILL Soak up the laid-back charm of a Jimbaran Bay seafood restaurant without the smoke, crowds, and noise at The Bay Bar & Grill, the newest addition to Karma Jimbaran. Inspired by the beach and sea, the space includes a 24-metre natural stone pool, blue glass accents, local suar wood and natural slate. The menu features a wide selection of locally caught seafood grilled to perfection alongside juicy steaks, burgers, and Indonesian classics like the slow-cooked beef rendang. Be sure to try one of the creative cocktails designed by mixologist Grant Collins like the Karma Negroni, Caribbean Cloud or Bubble Bath martini. www.karmagroup.com
Gg. Lumut, jl. Kayu Aya, oberoi, bali +62
www.blowbarbali.com : blowbarbali
PRASANA BY ARJANI RESORTS Set in the rolling hills of Uluwatu, Prasana by Arjani Resorts offers serenity and seclusion just minutes from the sea. The recently renovated resort boasts 21 luxurious private pool villas designed with clean, contemporary lines. Dining options include fresh seasonal cuisine at Kanika restaurant overlooking the ocean or gourmet delights served in the privacy of your villa. Likewise, Menaka Spa offers indulgent massages and beauty rituals in their soothing spa rooms or your own space. Prasana is currently offering a great deal just for The Yak readers. Book two nights or more from now until July 31, 2018 and quote “YAK” on the email subject, and they’ll hook you up with a complimentary Signature Spa for two. Tel: +62 361 4725 488 www.prasanavillas.com TWO ISLANDS REVAMPED You may have noticed that Bali’s Two Islands wines have a whole new look that gives the labels a sleeker, more sophisticated sheen. Well it’s not just the appearance that’s undergone a makeover. Two Islands’ oenologist James Kalleske is continuously working to improve the taste and quality of the wines, which include the chardonnay, pinot grigio, sauvignon blanc, cabernet merlot, riesling, pinot noir and shiraz. The new labels represent the next stage in the company’s evolution and the superior quality, character and consistency of each wine. www.twoislands.co.id
ELEMENT BY WESTIN BALI UBUD Element by Westin Bali Ubud is a new eco-conscious resort that offers a home away from home in Ubud and a peaceful environment to balance the mind, body and spirit. Boasting natural light and clever use of space, all 152 rooms are sanctuaries for relaxation with designer beds, spa-inspired bathrooms, and private balconies. Wholesome gardenfresh cuisine is on offer all day at Andong Teras, and the PancaMaya Wellness is a centre for holistic spa treatments and detox programmes. Guests also have access to the stunning saline pool, complimentary bikes for hire, and tailored experiences that provide meaningful connections with each other and the local community. Tel: +62 361 308 8888 www.elementbywestinbali.com 42
FISHBONE LOCAL New to the Batu Bolong (Canggu) hood is Fishbone Local, a contemporary eatery and bar that celebrates the bounty of the sea. Sourcing only the finest and freshest seafood from Bali Sustainable Seafood, the kitchen offers a market list menu that changes daily and takes cues from Balinese BBQ as well as other coastal cultures. Think pan-fried barramundi with sambal and Vietnamese-style slaw, swordfish tikka skewers, and vibrant tuna poké bowls. Adding to the experience is a creative libations list that makes use of native ingredients like kaffir lime, pandan, and pomelo to bring new life to spritzes, gimlets, Marys and margaritas. www.fishbonelocal.com
THE LONGHOUSE Introducing a luxury villa experience in a boutique hotel format. Nestled in the Jimbaran hills, The Longhouse is a stunning six-bedroom property designed with independent travellers, couples and small groups in mind. The owners worked closely with renowned architect Popo Danes, to create a unique space that draws inspiration from Indonesia’s diverse landscapes and cultures. Each room is named after an Indonesian island and has its own distinctive interior design that evokes the spirit of that island. The suites can be booked separately or together, and guests have access to five-star service and fabulous facilities like the vast infinity pool, home theatre, hilltop bale, and a dining room where professional chefs serve gourmet meals. Tel: +62 812 389 7623 www.thelonghousebali.com/the-longhouse
WEAR-ART BY BIASA BIASA has always raised the bar when it comes to design-forward resort wear, and their latest WEAR-ART project elevates the brand to a whole new level. The project began as an experiment between Flemish artist Jyoti Parenco and BIASA’s founder and creative director, Susanna Perini, and it has now grown into a significant collaboration and collection. Jyoti creates abstract paintings in acrylic on canvas using her in-depth understanding of BIASA’s simplicity in form. The artworks are then printed on light silk kaftans to create wearable art in editions of 50 prints only. And like any high-quality limited edition artwork, each kaftan is numbered and comes with a signed certificate of authenticity. Tel: +62 361 730 308 www.biasagroup.com
HALAL BODY CARE Another tip of the hat goes to Sensatia Botanicals for receiving official halal certification from the Indonesian Council of Ulama Bali. We’re not surprised considering Sensatia products are made entirely from all-natural botanical ingredients that are good for the Earth and the body. Managing Director Michael Lorenti Jr. says, “Since 2000, we have been committed to producing high quality cosmetic products. As an extension of our understanding of the special needs of our Muslim consumers in Indonesia and throughout the world, we started the application for halal certification in mid-2017. We are pleased to announce that now all Sensatia Botanicals products are Certified-halal”. Tel: +62 363 430 1270 www.sensatia.com
WATERBOM GOES CARBON NEUTRAL Waterbom is proud to announce that they are the first tourism operation in Bali to become completely carbon neutral. Environmental stewardship has always been a core mission at Bali’s biggest waterpark, so over the years they have consistently implemented initiatives to improve sustainability and minimise the impact they have on the local environment. For the last year and a half, Waterbom has also been working with environmental consulting group Mantra to reduce their carbon footprint. This includes investing in the Jorethang Loop Hydroelectric Project in India, which is a UN Certified Emissions Reduction Project. In this way Waterbom hopes to have a greater positive impact here in Bali and abroad. Tel: +62 361 755 676 www.waterbom-bali.com
Oh Mr. Blue Sky Bang goes our top-secret rooftop in the heart of Petitenget, BLU Sky. This restaurant cum bar cum lounge, with its massive infinity pool, a 360 degree view of the island - think volcanoes, rooftops, sunrises, moonrises and spectacular sunsets - has just decided to make itself known to the world (something to do with its rebranding to DevinSky Hotel Seminyak). Quite annoying as this was THE private spot where Yakkers gathered for a private viewing for such amazing celestial occurrences such as the Leonids meteor shower and other such astrological moments. With views such as these, expect equal pampering from the Asian and Western cuisine - served by the youthful kitchen crew - to tropical cocktails and juices, rooftop gazing into infinity as the sun goes down. Can someone please book me my sundown daybed? Tel: +62 3618499555 www.devinskyhotel.com
Magnificent Mderma Do you want your skin to have an Eden glow? We very much imagine you do!! The recent launch of the new skin micro needling machine MDERMA - the latest gold standard in skin rejuvenation - at Eden Life Centres on Petitenget, has the gals, and indeed more than a few guys, going to in for that very glow. ELC hosted a fabulous workshop for international skin specialist Jackeline Kama ( Jac @refreshsalons) to inform and educate about the benefits of skin needling. The hash tags #bestfacialsinbali #givememorecollagen #betterthanbotox #naturalresults and #bebeautiful, and the post workshop glowing reports speak for themselves. Mderma guarantees total skin resurfacing and rejuvenation with minimum downtime - the results are incredible! Deluxe IV infusions, IAL treatments, LED facials and many more line reducing, rehydrating treatments are all yours for the booking at the beautifully bright and breezy Eden. Tel: +62 361 9342958. WhatsApp: +62 878 63366996 www.edenlifecentres.com
PERFECTLY AGELESS Award-winning Cocoon Medical Spa has just launched a revolutionary new anti-ageing product for deep cellular rejuvenation. Using similar ingredients found in the famous Instantly Ageless products that took the world by storm over the last few years, Cocoonâ€™s new product includes multi-peptides that help revive dry and dull skin, minimise the appearance of fine lines, and improve texture. Available in a daily use serum or a rich moisturizer, this rejuvenating treatment is safe for all skin types and works to fight free radicals and retain skin elasticity with regular use. And in keeping with Cocoonâ€™s affordable pricing strategy, the products are less than half the price of those by Instantly Ageless. Tel: +62 811 388 2240 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com
NAMNAM NOODLE BAR Seminyak has a new spot where pho fanatics can get their fix. NamNam Noodle Bar is the brainchild of chef Nam Q Nguyen, who was born in Saigon, but fled to Denmark with his family when the war broke out. However, Nguyen never forgot his culinary heritage, so after years of working in world-class restaurants in London, New York, Singapore and Bangkok, he set out on a solo venture. NamNam Noodles was born in Singapore and was an instant success for its modern takes on Vietnamese street food classics. Now this chic noodle bar has made its way to Jalan Petitenget, offering Yakkers the chance to chow down on dishes like wagyu truffle pho and banh mi sandwiches washed down with iced ca phe. Tel: +62 361 473 5916 www.facebook.com/namnamnoodlebarseminyak
M AG I C A L A R R I VA L A NEW LANDMARK DESTINATION
TURNING BALI BLU
radissonblu.com/resort-bali RADISSON BLU BALI ULUWATU Jl Pemutih – Labuan Sait, Uluwatu, 80364 Pecatu – Bali, Indonesia T: +62 361 300 8888 F: +62 361 300 0188 E: firstname.lastname@example.org
modern life clobber.
LEFT: SCRATCH THE SURFACE tee - 395K, AVAILABLE IN YELLOW & WHITE. MIDDLE: INTRIGUE TEE - 395K: RIGHT: SPIRAL LS TEE - 470K www.deuscustoms.com
Summer 2018 Womenswear Collection. www.BIASAGROUP.COM
Overall IDR1.8mil Leather backpack IDR4.3mil Leather bracelet IDR230 www.kvk.com/oversz_wear
top: John Hardy Classic Chain Sterling
top: waiter's friend IDR 99k.
Silver Cuff with White Agate $3,200.
above: wine box collection from The
Cellardoor. IDR247,500 - 495.000.
culture vulture Actor meets photographer â€Ś a project begins. Sinta Tamsjadi and Thomas Schmidt explore life through the lens with their collaboration Earth and Ashes
forever, and right: shiva.
culture vulture 58
Sinta and Thomas, we are in awe of your work. Tell about Ashes, and your project Earth, and how the work came about? Sinta: Since childhood I’ve been interested in the questions: what am I? Is existence real? Where do we come from and where do we go? Thomas: When we die our bodies will be buried in Earth or burned to Ashes. Both substances are connected to the transformation from life to death. My art work has always been about the process of dying. When I was eight I painted my new toy train to make it look old and realistic. Have you collaborated before? Sinta: With Thomas? No. But I have collaborated on other projects, with other people. A book project, a screenplay … and in directing a theater play. I enjoy collaborations. My interest is in relating with people and what can happen between them. Thomas: This is my first collaboration and I hope Sinta and I will continue to find ways to express ourselves for a long time to come. What are your backgrounds? Sinta: I studied drama and have worked in theater and film. Thomas: I studied photography and work as a fashion photographer. How did you both meet, and when did you decide to be a team? Thomas: We knew each other for a long time through mutual friends. About three years ago I asked Sinta if she would be part of a portrait project about skin. She declined but proposed that we both be in front of the camera using a cable release. Sinta: It felt great that Thomas immediately agreed even though before he had only been behind the camera. I suggested to add earth because I had a vision of our work. What were the practicalities of the shoots, and how long did it take you to capture your vision? Thomas: Both series need tremendous preparations to set up the stage in the studio first day set up, second day shoot. Since we are both performers and photographers at the same time it is crucial that our equipment works perfectly because we can´t interrupt the performance. Sinta: The usual outcome per session is about three images that we feel work. When printed and framed in sizes up to 200cm x 150cm they reveal more facets. EARTH images remind us of oil paintings and ASHES increases in transparency. Where does that vision come from? Sinta: It suddenly shoots up. Like a deep breath. Contemplation is a daily practice. Thomas: We talk a lot about our inner state and
questions. What follows is a process of distillation. When it comes to the next session we usually have a word, a piece of music, a gut feeling that leads us into the performance. From there we let go. Sinta: With Thomas I can sense a willingness to enter into the unknown together. There is a pedigree to the images, and they seem to reference many artworks … the ideas are – dare we say it – ‘Homeric’, the struggle of Man and Gods intertwined. Sinta: We carry the culture we were nourished with in our bodies. There’s an access that finds its way through our expression into the work. It depends on how fluent we are while performing. Thomas: We never thought of specific artists but we are very conscious about the frame of art history we are moving in. For example the black space in our pictures is certainly inspired by Goya. And … yes, to us one criteria for a good picture is if we appear to be more than just ourselves, ideally we don´t look like ourselves anymore but seem to be something bigger – if you want – something Homeric. They represent to us ideas of struggle and torment, loyalty and devotion. Are they are illustration of the human condition? Sinta: In a very practical and non-judgmental sense, yes. As they say: the way in is the way out. Thomas: Yes, very much so. For my part the starting point for the performance is pain, my personal pain, the pain I´ve suffered from in the past and more now the pain of other people too. Is this a project you have considered performing? Sinta: No, but you’re giving us an idea. Thomas: Not yet – so far we were focusing on photography. But we are open to new developments and I wouldn’t say this is impossible. How important is the role of art? What is the role of art? Sinta: Art can take you and me where words cannot reach. Is that important? I’d say yes. If you allow it to it can be a pointer to take a break, to stop the chasing-the-cheese-wheel. Thomas: I don’t understand the question. What can we expect next from you both? Sinta: There’s still more to come with ASHES, it’s not all unbosomed yet. We plan to do a series called WATER next in line. Thomas: For the moment we are still in the middle of our encounter with ASHES ... Sinta and Thomas, many thanks for your time.
people Venus Pratova scaled the heights of international gymnastics before discovering the healing power of sensual dance. photo: oscar munar.
venus de milo.
Venus, where are you from and how did you grow up?
My roots are from Kyrgyzstan but I was born and raised
We see from your FB stream that dancing has become
parents showed me how to be loved. I realized later
go from gymnastics to the dance studio?
in Siberia, Russia. I grew up in a family where my that it’s the most treasured gift I could ever ask for.
What was early life like for you?
My childhood was very scheduled as a young child. Besides regular school I was doing gymnastics,
ballet and music. I remember that I had a special 17 minutes nap to recover. It’s actually a useful tip
for workaholics, I still do it if I’m exhausted while working. To be honest I feel like I’m not as busy now as I was at a young age.
Tell us about your gymnastics career, how you got started and where it took you?
One day in kindergarten while all kids were
supposed to sleep I found out that some girls were skipping that and going elsewhere, so I followed
important to you . . . was it a natural progression to I’m not a professional dancer but I’m enjoying
moving and feeling the flow while dancing. Dancing is a connection between soul, body and music. I would recommend all women to start every morning from
meditation or dancing in bed. That’s what I do before stretching or working out. Also one of my favourite ways to release stress is ecstatic dancing, which makes me feel alive.
How would you define your dance style, and what do you first teach students who come to learn from you?
I call it sensual dance. It’s a way to express the
emotions we tend to hold in. It’s a way to open your heart and start loving yourself. Sensual dance is a
therapy for women to discover the beauty of their body and develop graceful movement.
them carefully. I was amazed that they were playing
What brought you to Bali in the first place, and what
to join them and later told me to invite my parents
A broken heart brought me here. I was looking for a
and having fun at gymnastics class. A coach asked me as she saw my potential. I came back home full of
happiness and told my father that I wanted to be a
gymnast. He said: “You’ll be a champion.” My family’s support and belief in me helped me achieve a lot. It was a long journey full of discipline, daily development and, from
time to time, tears. But if you
ask me would I change it, the answer is no. Rhythmic gymnastics is the most feminine and graceful sport of all. I’ve learned a lot and it has given me an
has inspired you since you arrived?
place to heal. But Bali became much more than that. I went to Vipassana meditation and it changed my life. For the first time ever I totally accepted myself
and started loving me. I found the courage to open
my heart and to trust the whole world. It may sound unusual but a lot of people live an illusion full
of fear and doubt in which they are not satisfied but pretend to be, behind a mask.
understanding that nothing is impossible . . . but you
It’s mesmerizing to watch you move. How do you feel
of Sports of Russia in rhythmic gymnastics; I’ve been
You are very kind, thank you. I feel like a Goddess
have to work at it. Since 2006 I have been a Master
a multiple champion at HMAO-Urga, Russia and I’ve won multiple international tournaments.
What kind of training regime did you have at the height of your career?
When I was competing, in the lead up to a competition, I trained twice a day for at least three hours at a
when you dance?
when I dance! I hope that inspires other women to get a connection with themselves and start creating a new life full of pleasure, harmony and joy. If you accept who you are and the body you have, the colour of your skin or race, then you can just celebrate life and dance as if nobody is watching you.
time at a sport camp for about two to three weeks. It
What does it mean to be a woman to you?
training, not to mention planning and choreography.
how important it is to be truly happy and honest with
was all early morning starts, long runs, swimming and I’m sure you get the picture. No-one competes at the top level without hard work. Are you still competing?
No, but luckily I’m still capable of doing some
advanced gymnastics movement. I’m proud of myself. The healthy lifestyle and the environment helps to keep
It is a gift and hard work at the same time. As I know myself and the people around me. What I carry inside my heart . . . that’s what I spread. People feel
it. I’m conscious that my vibrations may be as much distractive as healing. Self-love, inner beauty, is the key.
my body in shape, with a clear mind and harmony in my soul.
PLAY LIKE NOBODY’S WATCHING IN BALI’S COOLEST NEW DESTINATION The views over the Indian Ocean from the infinty pool, the fresh, cool design elements of the rooms, vibrant social spaces, a restaurant where artists bring clay to life and a whole new destination to discover. Renaissance Bali Uluwatu Resort & Spa lets you be yourself and gives you the freedom to play like nobody’s watching! #RYouReadyToPlay
Renaissance Bali Uluwatu Resort & Spa Jl. Pantai Balangan 1 No.1 Ungasan Bali, 80361 renaissancebali.com Phone: +62 (361) 2003 588
sounds around Neil Mclellan took Liam Gallagher to his first museum ... and produced
Firestarter by The Prodigy. so thereâ€™s that. words: tony stanton. IMage: Oscar Munar.
prodigal son mclellan.
Name, rank and serial number please. Neil McLellan. Record Producer. Mixer Extreme. Synth Master. Neil, how did you start out in the music business? It’s all my brother’s fault. After 100 percent refusals through normal channels, it took a mad night out at The Park Nightclub to clinch the deal. Paul Oakenfold used to throw early acid house events there. My brother took me and out of the smoke and a single strobe light a guy said: “Your Stu’s kid brother. Go see this guy at The Strongroom Studios and he will help you.” I did just that and got a two-week trial, which was basically to see if I could make copious amounts of tea for everyone without messing up. I failed. However the studio owner Richard Boote took a shine to me I think and kept me on – unpaid. I was in. What skills do you need to make it in your line of work? We take it it’s not all about twiddling knobs … I would divide it into: 1. Psychology. This plays a huge part in what I do. Understanding that making music is, above all, about emotion, I believe that promoting the right head space and focus for my artists is paramount. One needs to make sure that the mental runway is completely clear, so my job is to make sure that during my sessions (pre and post studio) the artist always feels like they are in a place where they can push their own boundaries, remove doubt and be positive. 2. Confidence. In the studio it’s vital to have confidence and to keep an even keel in all situations. There is always a lot of gossip and chat in the studio – pay no attention to that, don’t get caught in what is invariably a highly emotional space, people will vent good and bad, don’t get caught in that just keep the session rocking. 3. Golden Ears. Although it sounds obvious, I spent years training my ears. As the tea boy I would listen to music in the big studios for hours and hours in my down time. I was also trained by the best engineers in the world – what to listen for, how the music made on my speaker system translates to every single speaker system in the world … from laptop to concert PA … and still kick. 4. Organisation is key. Keeping track of all the moving parts around the session, even the most basic things, is vital. Every little detail must be accounted for. Good organisation creates a smooth session giving sanctuary for the artist to be able to create to their best potential. You produced The Prodigy’s Firestarter, which has recently been voted one of the most influential tracks of the ’90s … what’s the story behind that? After the success of Music For The Jilted Generation, I was
called to work on The Fat Of The Land. We were all in Studio 2 at The Strongroom in East London and Liam [Howlett] said we needed a singer for this song. Keef [Keith Flint] at that point had never sung or written any lyrics before. Liam scribbled some words down, Keef took one look at them then picked up a hand held mic I had in the room and literally just shouted: “I’m the Fire Starter!” Unexpected … but what a buzz! Fifteen minutes later the vocals were done and in three hours we had the track as you know it in the bag. Later that night Keef performed the song for the first time ever in front of 5,000 folks in a venue in Essex. It’s a feeling I will never forget. I knew it was special and things were going to change. And then you were involved with Oasis as well? Yes. I was involved with Oasis - Falling Down (The Prodigy Remix) and Shoot Down (featuring Noel Gallagher and Liam Gallagher). Liam Howlett is a good mate of Liam G’s and so he was often about in the studio. We had some awesome times together … censored lol. We love a Liam Gallagher rock star story … can you give us an anecdote? New York Met Museum. I had been invited by my good friend George Bisacca, Senior Conservator at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, for a private viewing of the museum – a real treat! George and I met in the crazy times of the Meat Packing District of NYC. He managed to get the Bueno Vista Social club to play in his large apartment, and later we became firm friends. He invited Liam and his then wife Nik to come to the museum, and on arrival I was hanging up my coat and as I turned round I saw Liam Gallagher, hands outstretched, moving towards a priceless six foot urn. As he got closer to it an army of stewards and George were – as if in slow motion – moving to not let him touch it. They just made it. I remember saying to Liam, “mate you can’t touch this stuff, it’s not allowed.” And he replied: “Sorry, I’ve never been to a museum before.” I think that day blew his mind. Who else have you worked with in the biz? I have had the pleasure to work in many genres of music so here’s is a small selection! The Prodigy, Erasure, Madonna, Archive, Oasis, Nine Inch Nails, Orbital, Eric Kupper, Carl Cox, Kevin Saunderson, Sasha, Senser, Telepopmusik, Hinda Hicks, Manu Chao, Brother Brown, Terrorvision, U.N.K.L.E , Paul Oakenfold, Sandra Bernhard … What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given, musically? Michael Rosenblatt, Head of A&R Warners, once told me: “It’s Called Show Business not Show Friends. Anything with ‘business’ in it … watch out!”
How has your industry changed in the last 20 years, and is it for the better? It’s more about the publishing now than ever before. Streaming music is the way that people listen to music, so getting decent royalties from this has become the biggest battle that musicians and artists face. The upside … it’s possible to run and own your own label and music publishing company so you can retain control and not have the overheads to recoup of signing to a label. You can sign later once you’re successful and get a better deal. What are you up to in Bali, and how has the island been treating you? I love it here, the island has been good to me. I am able to write great music here and after 16 years in NYC and LA I think I have earned a nice break! Famous person walks into your studio. He/she is big in the business, but they have a rep for being difficult. What’s the first thing you do before working with them? Listen, listen, listen. Ignore any previous reputation. In my experience all this stuff is often overblown. Sit down, have a decent cup of tea and have a chat. Make people feel at home with you. If you get a diva, never play up to it, always be polite and be two steps ahead without being cocky. Even divas appreciate it! Top three punk rock bands of all time? Rage Against The Machine The Clash Nirvana - Dave Grohl Must mention Rick Ruben as he is I think the most influencial record maker of our time! We’re going to make you a T-shirt. What should we write on it? Big Nose. When I grow up I’m going to be … Capt. Kirk. Do you have any pets? Amy the pit bull. Oh and 12 new puppies – yikes! What does 2018 hold for Neil McLellan? Awesome new music with Zatua from Bali, Carl Cox in the autumn, more prods in November! Bali allows me to experiment musically and to finally relax after being at full throttle for a very long time.
fIRST up, were you born with the name Pan Trinity Das? Pan is an artist identity I picked up 13 years ago when I first started out as an Artist Solopreneur . . . and it’s stuck with me ever since. I felt like the previous me had too many limitations, whereas Pan could do anything! Where are you from? Surprisingly enough, I’m a farm kid! I come from a small town in rural Ontario, Canada. Although I love it, it’s a place where most never dream of leaving . . . and those that do never really return. Was it always art for you, or did you ever consider working in, say, a call centre? I started painting at 16 and I was hooked immediately. Now I’m 32 and I’ve spent half my life consumed by paint. Although I’m passionate about industrial design, fashion, jewellery, photo/ videography and tattoos, I always return to painting. It’s funny that you say that though … straight out of high school I did actually work at a call center. It was the last ‘real’ job I ever had. It took four months for them to fire me. I haven’t handed out a resumé since. What have you learned on your life journey? The most important thing in life is to keep your head up – depression is the mind killer. We are the only obstacle that stands in our way. Whether you’re a person of means or not, the world is your oyster. I don’t believe in excuses. The only shame is squandering this incredibly precious existence. Period. Where can we find your work? On the street, at a restaurant, hotel, school, ashram, anywhere you can fathom I’ve most likely painted! Travelling to countries such as India, Indonesia, France, USA, Germany, Singapore, Mexico, Thailand, Australia, Canada and the Netherlands in the name of art. Specifically I have been featured on CNN, the BBC, Huffington Post, The Wall Street Journal, Yoga Journal and many other editorials over the years. I’ve been fortunate to find myself in the right places at the right times. Destiny smiles on those who put their passions first. How would we know the work was yours if we saw it? What makes your art yours? Well, I’m a graphic designer as well, so my work always has a pretty tight composition. I prefer portraiture. I love contrast, black and white with huge colour pops. I tend to lean towards pop-art. My background is in brush work so spray always comes after, with a signature that’s not too in-your-face but a part of the piece. Tell us about the mural you did at The Beatles Ashram in India … I went to India for the first time in 2012. I heard about the legendaryabandoned ashram where The Beatles found meditation and started the psychedelic rock era. Although there weren’t any paintings on the walls yet, I immediately recognized its potential as a Street Art Mecca. I brought a backpack full of paint and bribed the guard
every day for two weeks until I finished what I had set out to do. Fast forward six years, the facility has been reopened by the Indian government, they’ve named me the Ashram Art Coordinator and I’ve been back nearly every year since, adding to the extensive murals spread all across the grounds. [@thebeatlesashram for more info]. Where are you with the whole art versus money dialogue? The short answer is I couldn’t be happier. I have everything I want/ need. I’m providing for my family doing what I love and what more could anyone ask for? The long answer is: I think anytime you create a job there will be an uphill battle at times. Life as an entrepreneur is challenging but I wake up hungry to start the day and excited to cross off my to-do lists. I love working with my clients to create monumental artwork that attracts good vibes and audiences alike. Although I can’t ignore the financial end of the business, I always make sure that what I’m offering exceeds the expense. At the end of the day there is no way to quantify the intrinsic value of ‘good art’, all you can do is shoot for an energetic balance comfortable for both parties. You’ve been linked with ‘Spiritual Pop Art’ … what does that phrase mean to you? I created this genre for myself when I lived in isolation from the things I was yearning for. After spending time around the ‘New Age’ movement I’ve felt like disassociating myself from that tagline in favour of a more universal theme. Life is intertwined . . . we are everything, and I want to represent the full spectrum of what I feel. I’ve always looked at painting or street art like stepping up to the mic . . . what do you want to say to the masses? How do you want to impact your environment . . . every time it’s something different. What’s the biggest mural you’ve ever painted? One of my largest pieces to date was 40 meters long! I was hired by the Delhi Water Board to create an environmental awareness campaign urging people to conserve resources. It was at one of the busiest intersections in Delhi, the honking and pollution wreaked havoc on my senses for 10 days. I believe in art for a higher purpose, and much of what I do has its roots in social change. If there was one object on which you would love your work to appear, what would that be? I’ve painted numerous types of vehicles but I’ve never painted on water, so I’d say a yacht! Although a jet sounds enticing as well. What’s next for Pan? Beyond a full work schedule, my soulmate/girlfriend (from Melbourne) and I are expecting a baby in July . . . I can’t think of anything more exciting than that! It is, after all, the ultimate act of creation, and I cannot wait to be a dad. We’ll continue to live our nomadic lifestyle after the baby’s born, there’s still so much to explore when the world is your canvas. Instagram: @ARTXPAN
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the yak interrupted street artist Pan Trinity Daz to get a glimpse into his life as a nomadic street artist. Photo: Oscar Munar.
the beatles ashram thanks him.
liza and quino make ice cream extraordinaire
to bare on baliâ€™s natural flavours.
words: tony stanton. photo: oscar munar.
liza and quino.
Liza and Quino, how did you guys first meet? Liza: Quino and I met in Spain in 2010 when I was still living in Madrid and he was on vacation. During that first evening he told me how wonderful Bali was and how happy he was to be in Indonesia. We exchanged contacts and Facebook profiles and he continued his life in Indonesia and I returned to Brazil for a job offer. For a long time we weren’t in contact. It was in December 2013 we said hi again and during that conversation Quino invited me to come and experience the Island of the Gods. And that’s what happened. I spent three months planning the holiday and at the end of July 2014 packed my things and arrived for the first time; it was love at first sight. Quino: Liza fell in love with Bali and I remember when she finally decided to live on the island she arrived with several giant suitcases and a little Chihuahua called Megy. Then during the first months she came up with the brilliant idea of making natural popsicles (paletas), something I had never experienced before. I remember one Christmas Day she made some samples for our friends and BAM! That’s how it started. By May 2015 we had launched our first outlet on Merta Nadi with all production on the second floor of the ruko. Today we have more than 15 outlets around Indonesia. What are your roles at the company? Quino: The company has basically been divided into operations, then sales and marketing. Liza takes care of production, logistics, warehousing etc and I am focussed on the development and expansion of the brand. It’s funny because we’ve switched roles for this project ... her background is more in sales and my experience is in operations. When did ice cream come into your lives? Liza: As with everyone I think I loved ice cream as a child, but it was my mother who created the desire in me to know more about it. My mother was always careful with what we ate and was very concerned about us eating healthily. So she always encouraged us to make our own desserts, cakes, ice cream and juices at home. That’s something I thank her for. Quino: I have been always an ice cream lover. I remember as a kid in the south of Spain it was a tradition to eat ice cream after our football games in the evenings or during the hot summers with a bunch of friends, but frankly speaking I never thought I would end up in this business!
Where does the name Paletas Wey come from?
Liza: ‘Wey’ is a word used for practically everything in Mexico. We thought it was something so Mexican it should be part of our brand.
Quino: We’ve both been close to Mexican people in
the past and we both loved how Mexicans use ‘wey’ to
colloquially call your buddy or mate. Hence Paletas Wey. Were there months and months of just experimenting with different flavours before you went ‘live’?
Liza: Yes, definitely. There were hard times when the
tests didn’t go as they should. I wanted to deliver an excellent product and many days I left the production
totally frustrated for not being able to reach my goal ... there were moments of crying and thinking about
giving up. But thanks to God and Quino’s encouragement, I kept at it.
Quino: Yes, there were tough moments for her since she
worked hard during weeks to reach the right balance for each flavour, considering all the different aspects of texture, colour and sweetness.
What are your most popular products?
Liza: A very complicated question! We have a few. Fruit lovers tend to go for Watermelon and Lime or Strawberry and Kiwi. People who prefer something more creamy and unique always go to Banana and Nutella, Durian or Vanilla Oreo.
What’s the absolute best thing about Paletas Wey?
Liza: For me it is the ability to guarantee (especially to the children) a product made of real fruit, and be sure that they are fed something healthy ... free of
preservatives and flavourings ... that has always been our mission.
Quino: The coconut Paletas dipped in chocolate with
almonds! Seriously though for me I think the best thing about us is our team.
What’s the very last word on durian ice cream?
Liza: Creaminess. It is an intense and unique flavour. I love it.
Quino: I will leave that for Liza to answer ha ha! Guys, many thanks for your time!
JIL ever in search of the truth about millenial life, The Yak flagged down Jillian Wong for a chinwag on what makes this brand strategist tick. photos: anthony dodds.
Jil – where were you born and what was important to you growing up? I was born in Vancouver, Canada, home of maple syrup! Growing up, my younger sister Shandy has always been an important aspect in my life - I love that little nugget. What posters did you have on your walls? Or more precisely – which wallpapers on your phone? None. My parents were super Asian and keen to keep everything in tact in the house. You could say that they were strong minimalists. What was your first job and how long did it last? I got my first part time gig as a elemarketer. Worst job. It lasted two months before I quit. You moved here from Tokyo. Firstly ... what were you doing there? Yeah, I spent some time there exploring the creative culture and of course the food. My professional background is in communication design and the diverse creative community within Tokyo was a huge inspiration. What kind of design are you in to now? Brand strategy + identity. Do you miss anything about Japan since moving to Bali? It's a pleasant contrast. Like stepping back in time with Bali. I definitely miss the food and the first class restrooms in Tokyo! But mostly the creative outlets available there.
What do you love about this island? The never-ending summer vibe. The sense of freedom and strong culture. So you came here on holiday and then ... fell in love with the lifestyle? I came here initially to surf, intending to stay for only a few weeks. But eventually I fell more and more in love with riding motorbikes and the sense of freedom that gave with Bali’s laid back island vibe. Time flies over here. How did you get into riding motorbikes? Since I have learned how to ride bikes for the first time, I seriously don’t know how I managed to survive without one before. I was hooked instantly. Or may be I was just bored and keen to learn something new. My flatmate at the time had a dirt bike lying around and he gave me a few pointers and I just rode and practiced up and down rice field roads everyday until I wasn’t struggling and stalling on the short cut anymore ha ha. Are you religious in any form? No, but my family has always been Buddhist. What is your opinion of Canggu? Beach bum hipsterville. Instagram or Facebook? INSTAGRAM @stellajae Jil, will we see you out in the surf? And if so how should we greet you? More likely to catch me cruising on the road with my bike - high fives and smiles.
people Georgia Sutherland fell in love with Bali, and made beauty her passion at Glo Day Spa. Photo: Ryerson Anselmo www.costesportrait.com
Hi Georgia. When did you first fall in love with Bali? I first visited Bali when I was about six years old in the late ’70s with my family, and then often for holidays intermittently over the following years. After graduating from Hotel Management School in Australia, Bali was my first posting. I worked at The Legian for two years, which was then a GHM hotel, and initially I was employed to do the pre-opening of the second two towers – an all-suite boutique property, which back then was surrounded by nothing but rice paddy fields. I guess at that time Bali didn’t hold the place in my heart that it does today. I just thought I would see out my two-year contract and move on. Little did I know I’d still be here 22 years later! I fell in love with the island, the people, the spiritualty and culture. I also fell in love with my husband. We have three beautiful children. It sounds like you did a fair bit of travelling when you were young? My extended family are from Melbourne but I was born in Perth. I was an expat child – growing up in HK from when I was four. Boarding school followed and I graduated year 12 in Victoria before I moved back to Perth and then off to Europe backpacking for two years. I had a fabulous upbringing in HK full of travel and adventure throughout Asia and other parts of the world. My mum worked for Pan Am and although the pay was very average, the perks were great with lots of free travel and upgrades. How did you start your career in beauty? I literally fell into the spa and beauty industry. The Indonesian Monetary Crisis happened in 1998 and many people were retrenched. It was at that time I found my new passion – I was approached by Mandara Spa and offered the position of Operations Manager. I had found my new love. So, Glo Day Spa … how did that come about? Indonesia has a wonderful history in hair and beauty, but 21 years ago there was very little available to Bali residents, other than a couple of little day spas offering hair cream baths and manicures or pedicures and waxing. The hygiene wasn’t great. I opened Glo Seminyak 12 years ago in 2005, and that was the first city-styled day spa on the island at that time. Our guests loved Glo and we slowly expanded to offer full spa services. Glo Sanur opened a few years later, then Glo Sandy Bay and the latest, Glo Canggu. What are the challenges running a chain of spas here? I guess the most obvious challenge is how to be in all four spas at the same time! But that challenge is solved simply – I have an incredible team of staff and managers. Perhaps the worst of it is the wasted time in traffic going between the four venues. That can be a challenge. The spa business was estimated at US$8.5 billion the US alone last year … can it keep growing? Yes I believe it can. Instagram and social media have accelerated this growth as it seems everyone is striving to be fit and beautiful. Even when times are tough you still want to look good.
What else is popular in your spas, apart from nails? We have a very comprehensive spa and salon menu. Our slogan is Vanity and Sanity. Vanity for your nails, waxing and other beauty services. Sanity for, say, a massage. There isn’t much that the Glo team have not mastered. How do you keep everyone motivated? We are a team of 58, eight of whom have been with me since the beginning. We have a very low turnover of staff and I am very proud of that. When I started Glo, no one was married or had their own family. Now there are so many Glo babies! We do a lot of team building and social events, and we are continually doing refresher training with international trainers, which keeps the team motivated. Ok here’s a good Yak question for you … you’re miles out in the middle of the desert and there’s a wounded animal blocking the road. It’s five hours back to the nearest town, what do you do? Another of my passions is animal welfare. So this question is a no brainer! I’d do whatever is required to help the animal. Even if that means sitting there for five hours waiting for the vet to come. I’m constantly rescuing animals that have been dumped near us, and then finding new homes for them. I currently have two Bali dogs (recently our eldest one passed away). They were all rescued from the street. What’s your favourite footwear? I love nothing more than getting dressed to the nines and putting on the heels … but I am equally happy barefoot on the beach with the sand between my toes. What is your spirit animal? Ok quite a random question – so to be honest I did the spirit animal quiz on the internet[http://www.spiritanimal.info/spirit-animal-quiz] and the result was … wolf! Happy with that as the wolf is a pack animal like dogs and I love my friends and family. What’s most important to you in life? My family. I am blessed with three incredible children that make my world go round. Saying that you don’t know what love is until you have children is kinda cheesy but so true. And my husband of course. He’s been my sounding board and biggest supporter over the years. It has been his faith in me that has allowed me to take the risks that I have over the years. He’s been the best father. Thanks for your time Georgia ... we’ll see you in the spa. Or the traffic.
run and gun filmmaker justin hall talks to The yak about his mission ... letâ€™s just say it ... to save the world.
OK, Justin Hall … describe yourself in three words. Let’s go with optimistic, principled and unconventional. If given a fourth, I’d add fallible… We’ve seen you on the TV, haven’t we? But you’re not a traditional kind of journo, are you... I often get called quirky. In the simplest sense, I run on instinct rather than rule books and follow my heart when confronted with a challenge. As a storyteller, it’s my nature to try and inspire the best in contributors and garner the most out of each encounter. In my experience, often the easiest way to achieve this is by going back to basics; whether meeting with a government official or hanging with gangsters, kicking back with guntoting pirates or talking with tribal chiefs. We are all fundamentally just people and a smile and good intention goes a long way to breaking the ice in tough company. How many countries have you visited in the last, let’s say, two years? Being part of the Nat Geo Explorer team has been amazing. As correspondents, we feed in stories to the New York office with only the most dramatic and telling making the grade. It’s fast paced, and you get used to being thrown in at the deep end … but I guess that’s part of the skillset. So, these last years I have been busy dodging land mines in Laos, saving bears in Armenia and searching for lost cities in the jungles of Colombia. I’ve hung out with gorillas in the mist in the DRC and swapped stories with child warriors in the Congo … I’ve drifted across bubbling volcanic lakes in Rwanda, visited Jane Goodall’s chimpanzees in Tanzania while in search of the origins of spirituality. For one of my favorite NG stories entitled ‘Cocaine of the Sea’ I went undercover in the markets of Hong Kong. It was a hair-raising experience. Following the money led us to the Sea of Cortez in Mexico, where aboard the Sea Shepherd I joined the team as they hunted poachers with mil-spec drones and night vison. It’s been a trip; an intense learning curve and I feel profoundly fortunate to have been a part of it. What’s the most dangerous experience you’ve ever had? The earlier thrill-seeking version of me took a lot of unmeasured risks. I’ve been shot at by marauding Thai gangsters, held up with a Glock for a slice of pizza in New York; I’ve had a knife pulled on me in the Arab sector of the old city of Jerusalem, befriended factions of the Chinese Triads, the mobsters of London, the Mafia of Moscow, Thailand and New York; witnessed stabbings, shootings, riots and catastrophes; infiltrated a forgery ring in Cairo; narrowly avoided being blown up by terrorists in Israel, Sri Lanka and again in Guatemala. I’ve been attacked by rabid mountain dogs in the foothills of the Himalayas; chased by a rhino in India’s forest of Thacadi; and thrown down a waterfall by howler monkeys on the coast of Costa Rica. I’ve survived a near-death experience in a jungle river cave close to warring guerrillas on the border of Belize, done barrel rolls in a rusting Soviet jetfighter as we punched through the clouds. I’ve ridden with rebels in Libya and pirates in Somalia. In the Amazon, in an early effort to get closer to nature, I strapped myself to the wing of a biplane and buzzed the jungle canopy. I’ve even suited up in a James Bond jet-pack and headed to the launch pad … but for all these things, many of them thrill-seeking, by far the most tangible fear I have felt in life was recently in the company of the child warriors of the Congo’s Mia Mia. These are kids born of the darkest kind of trauma, banded together around the gun, living a feral existence on the border of the now famous Virunga National Park. With nothing to lose, the cocktail of adolescents, alcohol and AK47’s proved highly volatile. There is a clip on Nat Geo’s Explorer website for any that wish to see.
Where does this lust for adventure come from? As a kid my mum gave me a book called Runaway Ralph! Ralph was a mouse who lived under the stairs and, like most mice, dreamed of cheese and not much else. Life changes for Ralph when he finds a toy motorbike and heads off into the unknown. For sure, Ralph’s spirit of adventure and longing to go elsewhere, see more, be more, has played a part. I guess, as a result, I set off early in life; armed with a smile, good intention and not much else, I spent much of my teens and early twenties jumping from place to place, hunting experience. At 15, I spent a year in India, trekked across the desert on a camel train, explored Sri Lanka and Nepal. From hauling sacks of coconuts on the docks of Israel’s Taba port, aged 15, to running clubs and restaurants in New York … I sucked up life, acted on instinct and moved forward. A real turning point came when I hit 30 and was living in Los Angeles. At a dinner party, fortune had me bump into a character called Jean-Pierre Detulluex, a safari suit-wearing kind of guy who held court around the table and told stories of remote tribes and his efforts to save the rainforest. It was a genuine eureka moment … so I harassed him to give me a job. Which he did, and through him I developed a passion for ethnography, learnt the process of film making and started to plan my own style of journeys. What’s Runningman all about? You wear the wooden image around your neck. It’s a talisman of sorts that has hung around my neck for the past 25 years. I’ve been through hell and high water with this little carved wooden character … in Zambia, while rafting on the Zambezi, he was torn from my neck as our boat overturned in the rapids. Amazingly he survived a solo swim down river past angry hippos only to be found later on the shoreline as we made camp! Always facing towards my heart. In the simplest sense it is a constant reminder that we should take active steps in the direction our hearts would have us go. I named my first production company after this ethos. So, he has led me as much as I have carried him. One thing’s for certain, we are a team. You’re a Fellow of the UK’s Royal Geographical Society, which has such alumni as Charles Darwin and David Livingstone. How did that come about and what does it mean to you? I’ve been a Fellow for almost 20 years now. Wonderfully, I was nominated for my earlier works with Amazonian tribes. Simply put, the RGS is an extraordinary organization that for the last 180 years has been a driving force of global exploration, nurturing intrepid spirit by supporting those brave, bold or foolish enough to risk their lives and push the boundaries in an effort to communicate a better understanding of the world around us. To be recognized as a part of this endeavour is without doubt my proudest achievement. To me, the challenge of exploration in the 21st Century is an urgent one … it’s no longer about planting flags or egocentric feats of endurance. It’s about exploring the issues of a world well known, about examining the relationship between Man and Nature, cultures and commerce, land and its governance, about the science of change and the quest for solutions. Your Nat Geo bio says you specialize in hi-tech digital storytelling technologies. Explain please! I’ve always loved tech and in a sense been ahead of the curve, looking for ways to use new tools to tell stories. Back in 2000, exploring this idea, I led a three-month expedition
through the tribal territories of eight amazon forest communities. It was my first major expedition and although the objectives where quite simple – i.e. review the forces affecting habitat, resource, nature and people – the idea of using the web to communicate each step of the journey in real-time was somewhat pioneering. Arming myself with almost 500 kilos of hi-tech kit including military laptops, solar panels and satellite communicators, we set about offering the remote tribes of the interior a digital platform from which to voice their hopes and fears. Via satellite, we relayed their stories directly from source, initiating discussions between like-minded groups and NGOs, subtly introducing the idea of digitally mapping the narrative, law and land rights claims of the indigenous and tribal communities we met. The results were encouraging. With the web still in its infancy, 1.4 million people joined us online. Collectively, school kids, scholars and a new breed of armchair traveler spent thousands of hours viewing our work and, in some cases, getting involved. There are exploited and under siege peoples and species all over the planet, with increasing population pressures that don’t look like helping with any of the issues we see in the environment or communities. Doesn’t it all just get you down? Sure, I see smoke on the horizon but to me it’s a call to action rather than a sign of impending doom. I’ve been lucky in doing what I do to have come alongside some extraordinary characters involved in projects set against the greatest of odds; whether dodging bullets to save lives or railing against injustice, standing alone in defense of nature or tinkering with cells to find a way … it turns out that having hope is by far the most important mind set. It is a defining quality that enables the best of us to push past the naysayers and fear of failure to prove by example. As history has so often proved, we are capable of much more than we might at times imagine … and that’s how I choose to see the future. The immediacy of our comms and the power that rests in each of our hands is hard to overstate. Striking but true, a standard iPhone runs well over 120,000,000 times faster than the computer that guided the Apollo spacecraft to the Moon! If brave men, women and clever scientists can aim for the stars and achieve the seemingly impossible with a fraction of the computational power we all have to hand, then I’m certain we can do more than take selfies and click flip and swipe our way through the day. You’ve visited many remote tribes over the years. Are there universal traits that you notice about all people in their natural state? I’m not one to paint idyllic pictures of tribal, indigenous or forest peoples being ‘at one with nature’ as, in reality, most suffer complex forces bearing down on them. However, as anyone who has wandered alone through a forest, looked out from a mountaintop or 76
stared in silence at a sunset, will likely have felt, there is something undeniably powerful, humbling and potent about being close to nature. It seems the more reliant on it you are, the stronger these feelings become. When you scale down from complex mega cities of millions to chiefdoms and tribal settlements of just a few hundred, you naturally find an intensified sense of community. Sure, they suffer the same soap opera of petty jealousies, varied attitudes and actions, but underpinning it all is a deepened sense of place and common purpose … having an intimate understanding that your existence is bound to and reliant on nature forges a reality that, for the most, we in cities dismiss as redundant. Namely, that we are all in it together, partners with nature, governed by it, reliant on it and should work collectively at all costs to ensure its continued wellbeing. Again, to me this is something that is inherently obvious to those who live close to nature. Your higher power has given you three wishes to change our future, what are they? Ok, let’s start with an instantaneous global epiphany! A profound realization by people and governance that priority should be placed on funding science that addresses primary environmental issues … as a starting point climate, food, water, the defense and perpetuation of cultural and environmental diversity and threatened enclaves … broad stroke, of course, and it isn’t just science. Obviously, it’s attitude and individual action that need to change. However, I reason that applied minds can and have achieved the seemingly impossible before … given the urgency and implications, I’d first wave my wand at this one. Next up … universal education and healthcare! Given that nearly 70 million children of primary education age are not in school and nearly 800 million adults around the world remain illiterate, it seems obvious that young minds, all minds, need nurturing and would benefit immeasurably from the passage of lessons learnt and higher reasoning. Knowledge is power, for certain, but in the simplest sense it also affords us a seat at the table, allows us to understand and actively participate in the decision-making process that governs our lives. This is never more apparent nor more important than for developing nations and its peoples who, once acknowledged, heard and allowed to speak on their own behalf, can exercise their right to self-determination re healthcare, redressing the balance and reducing suffering where possible … it’s a no brainer. Less worthy, and admittedly a bit selfish perhaps, my last wish would be to bring to life some of the expeditions and projects and meet the like-minded characters that will be needed to make them happen. @explorerjustinhall email@example.com
Luck is a funny thing isn’t it? Most people have got
strapped to the sides, Husni and Matt moved into
their own take on it. A lot of us wish it upon people
Common threads galore; they both liked to
the morning mayhem with Harry Mark. If luck would
with a ‘good luck here’ or a ‘good luck with that’. I’m
ride longboards. Neither sought out the biggest or
have it, they’d find some adventure and some waves.
sure we’ve all heard people talk about different types
meanest waves, preferring to find perfect peelers
They stop-started their way through to Jalan Bypass
of luck. Some of the more curious I’ve found, but
that allowed them to flow across the face. They
where the traffic thinned enough for them to move
struck a chord none-the-less, are ‘lover’s luck and
both had style and grace in spades. When it came
a little more fluidly and sped past the back of the
‘traveller’s luck’ … but who amongst us here hasn’t
to motorbikes, they were again of a similar ilk. Both
airport and headed towards Balangan on Bali’s Bukit
heard the expression ‘dumb luck’?
embraced the vintage two strokes, they shared the
Peninsula. The sky grew older and greyed over, they’d
nostalgia of the small powerful bikes and their loud
not gotten much further before Husni’s Honda GL Pro
started acting up. Blowing more smoke than usual
Matt Cuddihy had been lazing about not doing much of anything when Husni Ridwan arrived back at the villa. He came in and dropped himself into the
The Taoists believe in there being three types of
and spluttering like a groom on his wedding night.
couch. There was no effort in the action. It was all
luck. They say the combination of the three appears
They’d stopped for lunch and for the life of them
gravity. Life had taken on a slow rhythm of same for
in every ‘building’, that being a euphemism for us
they just couldn’t kickstart it again. At the point of
the both of them. They saw it, both of them, right
humans. First up you’ve got Heaven’s luck as the
ridiculousness it finally coughed into life and as the
there in that instant and right there, with a mere
ceiling. Then there is Man’s luck, he’s holding it all up,
last red rays sliced through the cloud cover and night
glance in each other’s direction, they chose to change
he’s the walls. Lastly, there is Earth luck, which, as you
closed in, they rolled down the hill.
may have guessed, is the floor. Each of the three are Two guys from such very different backgrounds
yet so similar in build, likes, dislikes. Yeah, you could use that oft-spun phrase ‘brothers from different
mothers’, many probably have.
the energies that fill our lives. Seems like all trips in Bali these days start off in a traffic jam. Astride vintage bikes with their logs
Luck’s not lineal. It doesn’t come in streaks like most people think. It’s in lumps and bumps. Starts with an event and then it abruptly stops. You can have a good luck streak interspersed with dollops of
good luck has its storms.
passions logging in at medewi.
bad luck. Bad luck, now there’s a thing. It has as many, if not more, symbols, omens and harbingers as good luck. Certain numbers are bad luck; The number four in Chinese culture. The numbers four and nine in Japan. While the Italians shy away from the number 17. Friday the 13th has had its fair share of bad press. Mind you in Spain and Greece it’s Tuesday the 13th you got to worry about. Maybe you didn’t reply to that chain letter or you saw your doppelgänger at the train station, both of these can be considered a portent of bad luck. Hanging a horseshoe with the ends pointing down will let all the luck ‘pour out’. Breaking a mirror is said to bring seven years of bad luck and let’s not forget what mum and her mum said about shoes on a table. First light told the story of the swell moving on. Small waves still ran into the bay but any greatness had gone into the dawn. It didn’t stop the boys from picking their way across the rocks out to the point and diving in. They traded waves and even shared a few. Then the rain came, increasing in intensity until what little of the swell was left was washed away. They relocated to shore, ate breakfast, packed and straddled their bikes to move on. The GL was again proving to be a petulant child. No amount of kicking would get it started. They even pushed it to the top of the hill, turned it around and pushed it down, gaining momentum before sticking it into second and dropping the clutch to jump start it. It gasped a few times but didn’t catch. Seems nothing worked. Sinyo, from the bengkel, was called up and he agreed to ride down to the Bukit to them. It took him awhile to arrive and together they spent the lunchtime hours trying to get it going. At one-point Sinyo was jumping on the kickstart with such intensity and frequency that in a last act of defiance the arm of the kickstarter snapped off. Getting creative they removed the kickstart lever from Harry’s bike – it had an electric start – and transplanted it to the GL Pro. It burst into life in the early afternoon and they moved to the next spot on their surf trek. Dreamland. A swell came in on the afternoon tide and the guys slid out and into some bigger waves. The stress, grease and grime of urging the old unpredictable contraptions soon dissolved into the azure blue waters in front of the big cliffs of Dreamland. They flicked and twisted their boards in the waves until the sea and wind drove them landward. The afternoon darkened and the sky grew grey and threatened them with a deluge. They packed up and tried to start the bikes and … yeah, you guessed it. The GL Pro wasn’t having any
of it and they were forced to call a local mechanic. There are those that don’t believe in luck. The basis of luck assumes that the universe is working with or against you, these nay sayers don’t think the universe gives a shit one way or the other. You’re either prepared or you aren’t, and the rest is by chance. And yes, there is a difference: luck is the idea that circumstances happen to you; chance is just what happens. It’s not egotistical, and it doesn’t allow the roles of victor or victim. Sometimes you benefit and sometimes you don’t, but it’s rarely ever about you. It just is what it is. A couple of chain-smoking machine magicians came down to the beach to collect the bikes. Oh yeah, nearly forgot to tell you … Harry’s bike had gotten a puncture, as luck would have it. They trucked both bikes back to their lair only to spend the next few hours first coaxing then breathing new life into Husni’s bike. For the moment it had once again been resuscitated. All of them knew they were on borrowed time and with the grey afternoon frowning into a dark evening they’d better hurry and set off if they were to make it to Medewi this night. They’d have to cut through Kuta and then hug the coast, as much as they could, on the long ride north. Urged on by the idea of great uncrowded surf they pushed through, making the highway after Tabanan where they thought the traffic would lighten and the trip would slide past. Rain met them instead. Not your common garden variety … more in quantity and quality akin to a monsoon. With it came a whole new set of issues. Trouble swished in riding high on a shower but this time it was Matty’s and the Yamaha DT’s turn for a little vexation. The excess of water was getting in somewhere, as we all know it’s bound to do, and the result was that every time he changed gear he’d receive a small shock through the clutch lever. At first it was just a bit of a bother but over the next few hours, multiplied by the glut of gear changes he had to perform, navigating the dodgem course of a highway, it went from mild nuisance to ‘I don’t ever want to ride this piece of crap bike again’. But they were locked in. Closer to the finish than the start. Escaping oversubscribed buses and idiotically burdened trucks on a highway no wider than a lane in some parts gives rise to a pretty hairy ride. They pushed onward and after three and a half hours they ultimately arrived. Wet, annoyed and with a little residual tingle in Matty’s extremities, they pulled into the homestay at Medewi. The perfunctories were performed and the three of them collapsed into a solid night’s slumber. There are so many talismans for luck that almost
every culture has its own version. Horseshoes with the open side up, because you know why, are nailed to houses and barns around the world. Thousands upon thousands of man hours are spent each year by those seeking the elusive four-leaf clover. Did you know that some people over in the United States think that a black cat is bad luck, while in Japan they consider the same cats good luck? There are coins that are lucky, and those dream catchers, them too. And never, ever mention Macbeth in the theatre, or change a boat’s name for that matter. The Chinese believe red lanterns bring luck and let’s not forget the old pot of gold left at the end of a rainbow, that is one hundred percent sure to be doubly lucky. Morning and waves. The sky was mostly clear and wearing hues of blue but the break, which was formed at the mouth of a mountain-fed river, was chocolate brown in colour, laden with the work last night’s cloudburst had worn from the land. Tan trimmers with frothy milk coloured white water that can only be accessed by carefully picking one’s way out over the round boulder-covered shore. The two of them surfed until spent. Once again taking all the healing they could from the restorative sea. An overhaul that was needed on both brain and body. Breakfast was simple village fare but they supped like kings adding more and more to the table. Finally, when all distractions had been spent, they crooked their attention to the motorbikes. The Honda GL Pro was still the grouchy gas guzzler it was yesterday. Husni knew starting it would be quite the undertaking and opted to defer the matter. Mind you, Matty couldn’t be tempted to even try turning over the DT. The memory of last night’s ride still too raw. Funny thing was, Harry’s bike was out as well. All of the bikes. Three for three. What you would call a trifecta if you were a gambling man. Overnight the battery had become flat for some undetermined reason. With no kickstart, remember it was transplanted onto the GL? Well it rendered it nigh on impossible to start. With no hills in the immediate area and the long swing arm and over width wheels it made it particularly problematic to bump start. Mind you . . . we think they only half-heartedly tried. Armed with a new perspicacity for luck they started investigating how one might move large items from one place to another. They met a man who helped them sort out some backloading on passing trucks. With the bikes now all safely heading back to the base, they drank a few cold beers as they waited for the driver they’d booked to take them home. Perhaps bad luck really does come in threes.
on the road in search of waves. and a bengkel.
RETURN OF THE JEDI GAVA FOX HAILS THE AGE OF THE POLITICAL, SPORTING AND OTHERWISE AWESOME COMEBACK.
Mahathir Mohamad imagined.
GERMANS are often stereotyped as lacking a sense of humour, whereas in reality they gave us a word to articulate one of the great pleasures known to mankind – schadenfreude. Literally translated as “damage joy”, schadenfreude is better described as the secret pleasure you get from seeing or learning of someone else’s misfortune. Watching someone spill a tray of drinks after they cut the queue at a bar, that’s schadenfreude; seeing a fellow surfer wipe out spectacularly after they take your wave, that’s also schadenfreude. But the concept stretches beyond that – especially when public figures turn out to have feet of clay. American speculator Martin Shkreli caused outrage when in 2015 he bought the rights to a little-known but essential anti-parasite drug called Daraprim and immediately raised its price from $13.50 to $750 a pill, leading to him being referred to by the media as “the most hated man in America”, and “pharma-bro”. The howls of outrage turned to cheers of joy last year after Shkreli was convicted of securities fraud and sentenced to seven years in jail. That too is schadenfreude. But there is something that gives us even more pleasure than watching someone else’s misfortune, and that is a good redemption story. The biblical fable of Lazarus may be the most famous comeback in history, but with almost every aspect of human life – from sport to politics, science to literature – there are tales aplenty of fallen heroes who have once again triumphed. Take Mahathir Mohamad, for example. As Prime Minister of Malaysia from 1981 – 2003, he fended off numerous rivals and was widely credited with modernizing the country, turning it from a developing nation into a regional heavyweight. His power, however, came at the expense of the legal system and human rights. He muffled critics, introduced laws that allowed for detention without trial, banned opposition parties and even jailed his own deputy, Anwar Ibrahim, on trumped-up sodomy charges. Few people were sorry to see him go when he finally retired, even though he had handpicked a pliant successor, Najib Razak – a decision he would
later rue as “the biggest mistake of my life”. Najib’s rule turned out to be a kleptocracy – his wife is said to have amassed over $1 million worth of handbags, making Imelda Marcos’ penchant for shoes seem modest – and he was ousted in May by the return to power of Mahathir at the ripe old age of 92. One of Mahathir’s first acts was to release his old deputy Anwar from jail and secure for him a royal pardon. He has promised to stand down in favour of Anwar within 18 months ... that is two comebacks for the price of one, with some schadenfreude thrown in for good measure. The United States loves nothing more than a political comeback. Marion Barry was forced from office as Mayor of Washington DC in 1991 after video emerged of him smoking crack. Four years and a jail sentence later, he was re-elected leader of the nation’s capital. South Carolina Governor Mark Sanford, meanwhile, retired from politics after a scandalous affair in 2011. Two years later he was elected to the U.S House of Representatives. Sport perhaps provides more comeback stories than any other field. Close to home, there is the tale of Jason McCartney, the star North Melbourne Aussie Rules player who suffered burns to 50 percent of his body in the 2002 Bali bombings. Eight months later, on his return to the sport, he kicked the winning goal in a match against Richmond, was chaired off the field by his team mates and promptly announced his retirement. Niki Lauda too suffered horrendous burns, in a near-fatal Formula One crash in 1976, but returned the following year to win the world title. After retiring in 1979, he changed his mind in 1984 to win another championship, before quitting the sport again – for good this time. Despite winning three Grand Slam titles, Andre Agassi quit tennis in 1997 and went on a drug and alcohol binge, losing his hair and ballooning in weight. With what would turn out to be the best return of his life, he got back in shape and by 2000 was again world number one, and he’d win six more Grand Slams before finally hanging up his racket. One sporting redemption tale yet to be told is
that of Tiger Woods, arguably the greatest golfer ever. Despite his enormous success Woods was always an aloof figure, and while golf fans and the public at large may have admired his success, he was never loved. In 2009 he fell from grace in spectacular fashion, chased out of his house by his golf club-wielding wife after she discovered a string of extra-marital affairs. A series of back operations saw him out of the game for nearly two years and he slumped to a world ranking of 899. Although he hasn’t won since his return a few months ago, the old Tiger is back – albeit a softer more gentle version. He now takes time to sign autographs for fans, he answers journalists’ questions after a round and, something rarely seen during his prime, can actually be seen smiling while he plays. Comebacks by movie stars are more rare – once your star fades, Hollywood tends to forget who you are – but that doesn’t mean actors haven’t had a chance to shine again. John Travolta, one of the most bankable talents of the '70s and '80s with smash hits such as Grease and Saturday Night Fever, faded into obscurity until cast by Quentin Tarantino’s hit Pulp Fiction. Mickey Rourke was a leading man in movies such as Barfly and Angel Heart until suffering a major career slump during which he underwent a series of disastrous plastic surgery procedures. Redemption for the washed-up actor came when he played the part of a washed-up fighter in The Wrestler, earning a Golden Globe and Oscar nomination. Robert Downey Jnr, perhaps, came back from further than anyone else. After an award-winning turn as Chaplin, he was jailed three times for drug and alcohol offences, but after an obligatory tearful turn on the couch of Oprah Winfrey he turned his life around, and with roles such as Sherlock and Iron Man is now one of the world’s biggest movie stars. Even those that break the law can get the chance of redemption and become much-loved public figures once they’ve done their time. Australian Mark “Chopper” Read was already a hardened criminal in his teens, and between the ages of 20 and 38 he spent only 13 months outside jail. When fellow gang members threatened to turn on
him in prison, he had a cell-mate cut off both his ears so he would get a transfer, and also admitted to have lost count of the number of people he had killed – although he claimed he only ever murdered fellow criminals. Still, when he was finally released and until his death from cancer in 2013, he became a best-selling author – including penning several children’s books. Australians love a larrikin, and Read become a popular public figure, touring the country with a one-man stage show and frequently appearing on TV chat shows. Briton Howard Marks studied physics at Oxford University in the 1960s, where he first smoked weed and began small-time dealing to friends. After he graduated, he moved into big-time trafficking and in the '70s and '80s was regarded as the biggest marijuana dealer in the United States with a fortune worth millions. His empire came crashing down, however, and he was sentenced in 1990 to 25 years in jail. Despite a plea agreement that would see him serve time in a low-risk facility, he was instead sentenced to one of the most notorious jails in the country, but his personality and intelligence won over both fellow prisoners and the authorities, and he was released after serving just five years. Marks then penned a best-selling biography, Mr Nice, and before his death two years ago aged 70 had transformed into a major TV personality and columnist and was often seen rubbing shoulders with the aristocracy and pop stars. In literature, Faust is probably the most famous redemption tale. The protagonist makes a pact with the devil to exchange his soul for a life of infinite knowledge and worldly pleasures, but even so can’t find true happiness. Love intervenes, however, and Faust is redeemed. We all have our own redemption stories, no matter how small. We all make mistakes and strive to come back and to better ourselves – whether after letting down family or friends. The philosopher Schopenhauer characterized the world as a product of blind and insatiable will and that the sooner you died, the better. But killing yourself by physical means was still a selfish willful, act and therefore the only way to live well was to starve yourself to death. Death, apparently, is the ultimate redemption.
OUT OF THE WOODS.
denise kaftan 94
dolly fringe scarf 95
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board games: aaron jamieson
white lines. photo: hanazono
travel avalanche. photo: niseko village.
Had social media been around in the 1970s a hashtag
and wake up to a fresh 30cm and a complete reset the
Indonesia’s waves as #japow has been to the revelation
and barrelling all day, every day during peak season
like #indosurf would have been to the discovery of of Japan’s now-legendary powder snow over the past decade.
These days anyone with an interest in snow sports
next day. Essentially its Japan’s version of offshore – albeit washed down with sake and sushi rather than Bintang and nasi goreng.
In a turn of fate that’s almost too good to be true
would find it hard to spend a few minutes scrolling
for Bali residents and particularly surfers, Niseko’s
being bombarded by other-worldly footage of skiers and
opposite side of the year to Indonesia’s peak surfing
through their feeds between November and April without snowboarders floating, bouncing and ploughing through
endless fields of waist to head-deep #japow – with smiles frozen onto their faces illustrating sheer joy as much
peak season between December and March is the exact
season, meaning Bali residents never need to miss an epic swell or a big snowfall.
One long-time Bali resident who now takes
as disbelief that it’s real.
advantage of this is Drifter Surf Shop co-founder and
unique geographical and meteorological setup, the west
winter in Niseko “snow surfing” with the founder and team
Such is the nature of skiing in Japan. Thanks to a
coast of the country is the beneficiary of more snowfall than almost anywhere in the civilised world. “Ocean-
effect snow” is the technical term, whereby snowfall is generated by cold air blowing across a warmer body of water, resulting in clouds bulging with moisture that
entrepreneur, Jake MacKenzie. He spent most of last
riders for Gentemstick – Japow’s answer to Burton. So
recognised as an icon of powder snowboarding is Gentem
that Jake now sells the beautiful handcrafted snowboards from his stores in Seminyak and Uluwatu.
“I’ve skied and snowboarded in Europe since I was a
release as snow when they cool.
kid and spent a few years living in Nevada,” says Jake.
airstream blowing off Siberia and over the Sea of
powder capital of the world, but Japan beats all of them
In Japan’s case it’s a prevailing north-westerly
Japan before hitting the cold north-west coastline and unloading metres upon metres of fluffy white stuff. This
can happen day after day for weeks at a time. Just this
past winter it snowed on about 80 of 100 days during the peak season in the resort of Niseko, Japan’s premier resort. On most of those days 10-30cm accumulated
“I’ve snowboarded in Utah too, which is said to be the hands down. In terms of a whole cultural experience, Japan is a great place for a ski holiday. The people
are so hospitable and the food is also incredible. It
just happens to be the closest world-class skiing for us too.”
Tales tall and true of Japan’s snow have now been
at village level at the foot of the mountain. Don’t
turbo-charged by social media and these days it’s not
Powderlife.com for photographic evidence.
experience this real-life winter wonderland. Travellers
believe it? Check out the daily snow report archive at This process is nothing new. Japan has always had
lots of snow, but somehow it largely escaped mainstream consciousness. This seems to have been due to a range of factors: firstly, ski equipment wasn’t designed for
deep powder; second, the rest of the world had plenty of snow; and third, Japan was perceived to be an expensive and difficult place to travel to.
As winters became increasingly dry in Europe and
just hardcore skiers and snowboarders that want to from across Asia are learning to ski for the first
time on the soft, forgiving slopes. Others don’t even clip or strap into any ski equipment – they just ride the gondolas to the top, take a few snaps for their
Instagram accounts, and head back down to the bottom to build snowmen and partake in that other wonderful
Japanese tradition – eating delectable Japanese food.
Niseko is to Japan what Bali is to Indonesia – the
the US through the’90s and into the 2000s, and powder-
gateway to the mountains for the outside world and
had come. Much like Bali, it was largely Australian
paradise. There are more than 500 ski resorts in Japan,
specific skis and snowboards evolved, Japan’s time
snowboarders (who were often surfers as well) who first started traveling to Japan en masse between 2000 and 2005, returning with tales of a land where you could
get fresh tracks in waist-deep powder until nightfall,
starting point for those wanting to find their own powder however few of them have much to offer international tourists – other than mountains of snow. There is
generally no après or nightlife to speak of and limited options for dining and play.
Niseko however, on the wild northern island
of Hokkaido at the foot of a miniature version of
Like the accommodation, the dining scene in Niseko
Mt Fuji, has over the past 50 years attracted an
is second to none of any Japanese ski resort, and
artisans and aspiring chefs from across Japan who
hotspots. It helps that Hokkaido is known as the “food
interesting collection of ski bums, nature lovers, unwittingly laid the foundations of a uniquely organic ski resort village growing out from a single lift built in 1961.
The core of that original village survives today
in the form of Hirafu – Niseko’s version of Seminyak. While it has evolved into a glitzy and glamorous
in itself is becoming one of the country’s culinary
bowl of Japan” for its vast agricultural industry and ready access to seafood from two adjacent oceans. The produce grown out of the fertile volcanic soil tastes as fresh as the water that flows from snow-fed springs all across the country side.
Many of the original old chefs who moved here
international ski resort, still today outdoor
as young men and women are now looking to hand over
“izakaya” restaurants can be found in the network of
Michelin Guide inspectors looking for the next hit,
“onsen” hot spring baths and tiny hole-in-the-wall village streets buried amongst mountains of snow.
Meanwhile multi-million-dollar chalets and uber-luxury condominiums are replacing any ungracefully ageing cottages and pensions and filling in vacant land.
Small-time entrepreneurs and developers out of
Australia got the ball rolling in the mid-2000s before global players increasingly got in on the game –
to aspiring protégés. Niseko is now frequented by
and in turn more and more Michelin-recognised chefs are being drawn to Niseko to open new restaurants. There are now 15 restaurants in the area that have
had stars or recommendations bestowed on them, or are headed by chefs who have Michelin-starred restaurants elsewhere.
Niseko is also home to 25 onsen baths and you will
first Hilton followed by Park Hyatt, Ritz-Carlton and
be within walking distance from one or more anywhere
their entry soon. Rumours are swirling at the moment
underground, onsen water contains various minerals
Marriott, and now signs Aman is also set to announce that US ski resort giant Vail Resorts has acquired a resort called Kiroro, alongside Niseko. That would
put it in the same stable as Vail, Beaver Creek and Whistler Blackcomb and take the region’s acclaim another giant leap forward.
With literally billions of dollars being pumped
into Niseko, those who enjoy luxury accommodation are
spoilt for choice. Developers are in fierce competition with each other to recruit famous architects and build the latest and greatest places to stay, and many
condos now come with private onsen baths inside or on the balconies. Now there are hundreds of chalets and apartments you can book online at Powderlife.com.
Chalets and condos with levels of service akin to
you stay in the resort areas. Coming from deep
that are said to have therapeutic benefits. There’s no better way to cap off a day in the powder than thawing out and soothing your tired muscles in a steaming
outdoor onsen with snow falling silently all around. While Hirafu is the buzzing heart of Niseko
and home to the widest variety of restaurants and nightlife, there are actually four resorts on the
one mountain, each with its own village at the base. All offer their own unique ski holiday experience, allowing visitors to choose the resort that suits their purposes – be that an action-packed week of
skiing and sake, or a peaceful retreat in a snowbound
forest for the ultimate #japow ski holiday experience.
the finest luxury ski accommodation in Europe and North
If Niseko sounds like the type of place you’d like to
Hakuchōzan, comes with a team of six staff onsite
and more at Powderlife.com – Niseko’s premier news,
America have also arrived. One such private chalet,
including a chalet manager, chef, butler and chauffeur and rents for US $14,500 per night. For those without that sort of budget there are also plenty of older lodges and budget accommodation to choose from,
starting at about $50 a night.
escape to this wet season, you can find out all this information and accommodation booking portal. Our
resort specialists can recommend the right resort for
your travel party and the ideal chalet or apartment to make best use of your budget.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ONSEN (AARON JAMIESON; HIRAFU AT NIGHT (NISADE); JAPANESE STYLE AT NISEKO GRAND HIRAFU; MORE POWER TO THE POWDER (AARON JAMIESON); CHALET CLOUD 9 (HOKKAIDO TRACKS); NIGHT MOVES (AARON JAMIESON).
w w w .b a l i s t a r z .c o m
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cliff clubs truly an edge of the world experience at oneeighty.
Luxuriating in lofty locales should be part and parcel of any Bukit experience â€“ seeing as how this particular corner of Bali is home to a slew of sleek cliff clubs where you can wine, dine and dance while gazing out at endless expanses of the Indian Ocean. HURRAH!
OMNIA New to the Bukit’s cliff top scene is OMNIA, a dynamite dayclub brought to us by the Hakkasan Group. This is the sister venue to OMNIA Nightclub in Las Vegas and every bit as spectacular; perhaps more so given its scenic location atop the surf-battered cliffs of Uluwatu. No attention to detail went unnoticed in designing the space, as eco-architectural firm WOHA and the Rockwell Group took great lengths to ensure that OMNIA and the adjoining Sake no Hana restaurant blend into the natural surroundings and maximise the panoramic views. Step through the reception and you find yourself surrounded by a massive wooden lattice that houses upscale Japanese dining destination Sake no Hana upstairs and a lounge downstairs. Make your way to the front and the space opens up to a stunning al fresco dayclub done up in hues of cobalt and cream. At the centre a free-form infinity pool merges with the blues of the sky and sea. Sun worshippers sprawl on oversized sun loungers and revellers get down on the open-air dance floor to the DJ’s beats. Others take respite from the heat in curtained bungalows with private plunge pools or in the comfort of VIP cabanas nestled behind the DJ booth. Then there is the Cube, a jaw-dropping bar and sundeck that juts out over the edge of the cliff. Accessed via a wooden bridge over the infinity pool, this hovering bar is the best seat in the house for unrivalled views of the rugged cliffs, the beach far below, and the ocean spreading out in front of you. www.omniabali.com Ulu Cliffhouse Equal parts elegant and irreverent, party central and a sweet place to chill, Ulu Cliffhouse is many things rolled into one. Perched on a plateau high above the legendary Uluwatu swells, this fabulous 50,000-square-foot cliff top playground draws sun worshippers, surfers, and style mavens from far and wide. Designed by award-winning Shed London, the space features manicured lawns and a glittering 25-metre infinity pool surrounded by plush sun loungers. On either side of the pool you have sleek shaded areas with fully stocked bars and ample seating on cushioned benches and rattan chairs. Head towards the edge of the cliff and you have a sun-soaked lounge area with sweeping views of the ocean. Also at the edge of the cliff is a set of wooden stairs that winds down the face of the cliff to a secret hideaway known as The Ocean Deck. This sea-facing bar can seat up to 100 people and offers tiki-style cocktails, incredible views of surfers riding the waves, and access to the bar’s own private cove below. Ulu’s kitchen is helmed by Peruvian chef Diego Muñoz whose culinary creations include light bites like fresh ceviche, crab bruschetta and duck rillettes. Heartier fare includes the roasted red snapper, lamb skewers, and braised octopus. Behind the bars mixologists shake, stir and pour everything from cold-pressed juices to kombucha, cheeky cocktails and fine wines. Music is another important element of the Ulu Cliffhouse experience, so you’ll find an in-house studio and a rotating roster of local and international DJs hitting the decks every day. And in keeping with its surf haven locale, there is also an in-house surfboard shaper to help you fine-tune your ride. www.ulucliffhouse.com Oneeighty° Acrophobes may want to avert their eyes at oneeighty, a lofty cliff club that sprawls along the edge of a sheer 500-foot drop along Bali’s southernmost coast. Located
within The Edge estate – an exclusive enclave of luxury villas in Pecatu – oneeighty offers panoramic views of jungle-covered cliffs and the Indian Ocean from nearly every direction you turn. As if the jaw-dropping views weren’t spectacular enough, oneeighty also boasts what is arguably Bali’s most breathtaking pool, a gravity-defying body of water that extends six metres over the edge of the cliff and has a glass bottom section where fearless swimmers can peer down at the waves crashing into the shore hundreds of feet below. When not inducing vertigo in the infinity pool, guests can cool off in the second free-form pool, soak up the sun on the VIP deck, recline under a palm tree at the sand lounge, sip on craft cocktails and champers at the rooftop bar, or snack on elevated beachside fare either al fresco next to the edge of the cliff or in the covered restaurant and bar. The man behind the menu is chef Nyoman Suasa, whose previous position was sous chef at The Beverly Wilshire on Rodeo Drive. His innovative dishes include refreshing starters like ceviche with yellowfin tuna marinated in kaffir lime, chilli, lemon basil and virgin coconut oil, Indonesian classics like Lombok-style grilled duck with smoked chilli, and decadent Western bites like the wagyu burger with foie gras, bacon and cheese. The beverage list is just as impressive with an enticing selection of fruit-forward cocktails, energy boosting juices, and premium spirits. Reds, rosés, bubbles and whites come by way of the award-winning cellar manned by head sommelier Nyoman Suwinda, who was named Bali’s Best Sommelier 2016 by Wine Spectator. www.oneeightybali.com El Kabron From its humble beginnings as a casual chiringuito (a small no-frills beach bar) that could only be reached down a winding dirt road, El Kabron has grown into one of Bali’s most sought-after cliff clubs famous for its champagne parties, mind-blowing Mediterranean cuisine, and gorgeous turquoise pool overlooking the ocean. The story began when two brothers left their native Spain in search of sublime surf and washed up on Bali’s shores. David and Jesus Iglesias soon came across a spectacular spot where the sunsets were superlative, so they built a small cabana to serve as a hangout spot for friends. Eventually they realised that Bali was missing an authentic Spanish spot, so they set about transforming the space into a chic restaurant and bar. Today El Kabron offers three sophisticated and scenic areas to eat, drink and play. The chic dining room with its lengthy bar is the perfect venue for a romantic dinner or group gathering. The Cliff Club is home to the iconic pool and curved sun loungers that face the rolling surf, and the VIP balcony boasts an exclusive bar and soft sofas built into the side of the cliff. The menu at El Kabron is authentically Spanish with a mouthwatering selection of tapas, croquetas, paellas and imported meats and cheeses. Start with small plates like the Spanish cured Ibérico ham croquettes and smoked codfish carpaccio before moving onto something more substantial like the traditional oven cooked seafood rice with ample portions of prawns, mussels, clams and squid. A carefully curated wine list complements the cuisine. Never ones to rest on their laurels, the Iglesias brothers always seem to have something in the works at El Kabron whether it be sunset live music sessions with world-class musicians, chic fashion shows, Moët & Chandon champagne shower parties, or even new additions to the space. In fact, a little bird told us that there will soon be a second pool available just for adults. S.M. www.elkabron.com
top left: ulu cliffhouse, right: omnia, this image: el kabron.
b e a c h l ife
clockwise from top left:W resort seminyak; sundayâ€™s; karma kandara; arthotel beach club mano seaside
Nothing says tropical island lifestyle like chilling at a luxe beach club. Baliphiles have plenty To choose from â€“ laid-back and lovely to familyfriendly, swanky and scenic. stephanie mee feels the burn.
Mano Beach House While Bali’s big name beach clubs may draw in bustling crowds, Mano Beach House is a laidback hidden gem. Set slightly away from the main drag on the sands of Petitenget Beach, Mano has a rustic, relaxed atmosphere that invites you to settle in and chill for a while. Natural features like wood and stone abound and breezy open-air spaces offer beanbags and sofas with front-row seats to the Indian Ocean. During the day, the covered lounge is a peaceful spot to indulge in brunch dishes like the avocado toast with feta, dukkah, and kemangi oil on sourdough or the grilled halloumi and scrambled eggs. Cool off with a mixed juice, kombucha or smoothie. The small pool is great for cooling off, and should you want to stroll the beach or take a dip in the sea, the staff are happy to keep your belongings behind the bar for safekeeping. Come late afternoon, the vibes at Mano Beach House really pick up as people start filtering in for sundowner drinks and views of Seminyak’s legendary sunsets over the ocean. Chilled music plays in the background and servers make the rounds with cold Bintangs, glasses of bubbles and vibrant plates like salt and pepper calamari, seared barramundi, and Panang curry with confit chicken leg. www.manobali.com Artotel Beach Club There’s a youthful energy going on at Artotel Beach Club, a new oceanfront playground for all ages in Sanur. Spanning 7,000 square metres, this lush oasis offers multiple inviting spaces to eat, drink and play including manicured lawns, a two-storey restaurant, four bars, a massive free-form pool, and cabanas and daybeds that spill onto the white sand beach. ` Stroll through the tropical gardens to the heart of ABC where a designer pool features undulating curves that bring to mind Bali’s terraced rice paddies. Surrounding the pool is a white stone deck with al fresco areas for sipping and snacking, and wrapped around a 100-year-old banyan tree is a giant bamboo tree house that houses the restaurant. ABC’s menu features tantalising Western and Asian dishes that incorporate fresh ingredients from Bali’s waters and farms. Little ones will love the burgers and pizzas, while culinary connoisseurs can try regional bites like the lamb shank braised in West Sumatran spices or Asian seafood bisque. Food is also a focus at their Sunday markets with live music, games, drink specials, and vendors selling everything from t-shirts to tequila. www.artotelbeachclub.com Karma Beach Bali Combining laid-back, toes-in-the-sand beach vibes with jetsetter luxury, Karma Beach Bali is one of the Bukit’s most exclusive beach clubs. The experience starts at the top of a rugged limestone cliff where a travelator awaits to take you down to the beach below. As you descend past verdant foliage, the scene opens to a stunning aquamarine lagoon backed by a crescent of white sand and Karma’s thatched-roof cabana restaurant and bar. Once at the bottom, you can make your way to the bamboo bar for cold drinks and tasty Mediterranean, Asian and Italian eats like freshly caught grilled seafood, sushi, sashimi, and wood-fired pizzas. Then it’s all about soaking up the sun on the private beach, exploring the reefs on a kayaking or snorkelling excursion, and getting pampered with massages and spa treatments on the sand or in the Ocean Spa. After the sun sets, things get a bit more hedonistic with funky beats and a wide selection of craft cocktails (also available all day for those who want to get the party started early). Although Karma Beach Bali gives priority to guests staying at the Karma Kandara Resort, outside guests can pay an entrance fee that includes credit towards food and drinks. Reservations are highly recommended, especially on days when they have special parties and events. www.karmagroup.com
Woobar at W Bali Seminyak It’s pretty hard to beat Woobar’s enviable location in the trendy W Bali Seminyak, which sits smack dab in the middle of Petitenget Beach. Add to that a cool contemporary space where terraced pools wind around palm trees, round daybeds overlook the ocean, and DJs hit the decks every afternoon and evening for stellar sunset and after-dark sessions, and it’s no wonder Woobar has a reputation as one of Bali’s sexiest spots to see and be seen. Snag a lounger by the pool or a soft sofa on the sun-dappled wooden deck and you can while away the hours sipping, snacking, swimming and sunbathing. Tapas and globalinspired fare are on offer from morning until late and include small plates like tuna ceviche, Jimbaran prawns with orange and yuzu, and goats cheese churros. Larger plates include Woobar’s famous thin-crust pizzas and wagyu carne asada tacos. Drink specials are another draw with happy hour deals going down nearly every day of the week. Sunset sessions take place from Monday to Friday, 4pm to 6pm and include onefor-one signature cocktails like the passion fruit mojito and cucumber jalapeño margarita. After the sun goes down, the party keeps going in the underground nightclub and skybar on the upper deck. Keep an eye out for special events like silent discos and international DJ happenings. www.wretreatbali.com Sundays Beach Club You’ve probably seen photos of Sundays Beach Club with its iconic fan-shaped cabana jutting out onto a pristine white sand beach and fronted by endless shades of turquoise and blue. Well the pictures only begin to do it justice, as this spectacularly scenic oceanfront oasis offers up a myriad of experiences that will leave you sun-kissed, salty haired and satiated. Set in a secluded cove at the bottom of a cliff fronting Ungasan Clifftop Resort, Sundays is a little piece of paradise in Uluwatu. Take the inclinator down to the beach and you can flop into a beanbag right on the sand, recline on plush loungers on the sundeck, or grab a seat in the circular bar for sophisticated cocktails and seafood grills with absolute ocean views. Explore the crystal clear waters of the sparkling lagoon with complimentary kayaks, paddleboards, and snorkelling gear. You can also indulge in luxurious spa treatments like Balinese massages and reflexology at the shaded Vela Spa Bale overlooking the water. Be sure to stick around until sunset when Sundays puts on beach bonfires replete with roasted marshmallows. They also have special seafood feasts on Friday and Saturday nights. www.sundaysbeachclub.com Ibiza in Bali By the time you read this, Ibiza in Bali will have not quite yet have opened its doors (they’re aiming for July), but we can already tell that this Mediterranean-inspired club on the white sands of Kelan Beach is going to be the next big sensation on the beach club scene. This is Bali’s first Ibiza-style spot where the parties will be pumping poolside, in the nightclub, and on the sand from noon to late. Set on a beautiful strip of beach lapped by the calm waters of Jimbaran Bay, Ibiza in Bali boasts plenty of places to have fun in the sun including a gorgeous glass aquarium pool with a swim-up bar. Plush daybeds are positioned next to the pool and on the beach, and a rooftop bar with a Jacuzzi beckons private groups. Swing by the restaurant for exquisite Spanish cuisine or make your way to the Lagoon Bar for creative cocktails and sunset views. Slick plans are in the works for Ibiza in Bali including themed parties, live music with local talent and well-known Ibiza DJs, fashion shows, fire dances, and cooking and cocktail demos. They also have a VIP Boarding Lounge experience for those who have late flights out of Bali. Simply show your boarding pass and you can purchase a ticket that gets you a daybed with poolside amenities like towels, bottled water, and Wi-Fi. They even have luggage storage so you can go straight from the pool to the plane. www.ibizainbali.com
spa alila ondy sweeting wins this issue's story of the season award as we send her to four alila spas to experience life on a massage bed. someone had to do it.
As one of Asia’s hottest spa destinations, Bali’s venues of pure indulgence are all over the wants and desires of spa addicts and none more so than the glamorous Alila hotels. Four Bali properties are held within the boutique hotel group and are positioned in the island's most sought-after locations – Seminyak, Ubud, Uluwatu and Karangasem. Each spa has been carefully paired to mirror its unique geography, harnessing salt from the ocean and fresh air from the forest. All of Alila’s spa products are crafted in a small operation in Karangsem. Using the best of locally grown spices and essential oils with a range of fragrances from lemongrass and ylang ylang through to clove and orange. Alila Seminyak spa’s signature treatments are the result of years of development and enhancements to service exacting clients. The spa’s bespoke mineral ritual aims to wind down the energy a notch or two from the island’s frenetic buzzing style-centre of Seminyak where dining, dancing and shopping can be exhausting. The three-and-a half hour experience has a history deeply rooted in its location, a place where a Balinese healer called Wayan was once resident. The famous healer was in great demand and people travelled from across the island to have ailments treated by him. His gentle touch and focused energy are said to have healed countless people. Wayan’s ancient knowledge and his well-honed physical skills have been passed on to Alila Seminyak’s therapists through training with the master. The plan has ensured the preservation of these uncommon therapeutic techniques and continues to deliver the time-honoured practices from the very same grounds.
Designed to detox and refresh the body and spirit, the mineral ritual begins with a traditional foot soak in water infused with freshly hand-crushed lemongrass, limes and sea salt. It also has several drops of Alila Seminyak’s signature oil of lavender, lemongrass and ylang ylang to sooth and disinfect. Then the signature massage takes place in the rarefied beauty of a Zenstyle room. The massage is a deeply relaxing mix of long silky strokes, gentle stretching and muscle-melting kneading of knots. No wonder Wayan was such a hero who attracted aching spirits from across the land. The intensity of the massage induced a kind of twilight zone of being aware but not really present. The therapist integrated foot reflexology into this space without missing a beat. Feet take a lot of flak from long beach walks and pavement pounding shopping tours so a period of relentless attention is welcome. No swollen tootsies here. A quick 15 minutes in a steam room works to soften one up for a full body scrub, which is a thick sea-salt based emulsion devised to slough off remnants of sunscreen, moisturizers, dead skin cells and the other debris of day-to-day island life. This fragrant scrub is washed away while chilling on a wet table with an overhead Vichy shower – a long water pipe with multiple showerheads – spraying immense quantities of warm water all over the body while the therapist simultaneously washes away any traces of the product. Now it’s teatime, while soaking in a big magnesium bath that roils with tiny champagne-like oxygen rich micro-bubbles that are charged with giving the skin an even deeper clean. The result – baby soft skin. The mineral ritual is rounded off with a facial that involves a cleanse and a lot of massage to stimulate the lymph glands and tighten facial and neck muscles. It felt luxurious and was finished with a cool facemask.
alila spas await their most precious addition: you
Alila Ubud's rainforest retreat.
Alila Seminyak Spa is for the connoisseur of opulence who appreciates details such as glasses of cooled mineral water, wet slippers discreetly replaced with dry scuffs, fluffy towels changed and a happy lack of looped mindfulness music. Upstairs in the ocean front Sea Salt restaurant the spa menu offers Japanese influenced poké bowls – mostly with fish or mushroom – that are the nice jigsaw piece for a morning of energizing and tactile pleasures. While the Seminyak spa is hidden in it’s own architecturally aesthetic atmosphere, the sister property in Ubud has an exclusive bale overlooking the verdant valley of an Indonesian rainforest. This is an escape from city life into a private haven of seclusion at the resort’s bale bengong, perched at the edge of the insanely green Ayung Valley. The soothing atmosphere of the surrounding rainforest is a blast of quiet. The only streamed sounds come from tropical birds, the breeze disrupting the trees and the calming rush of the river. Amid this uniquely Ubudian setting it is simple to surrender to the pampering of a cool footbath while in a private front seat watching nature evolve timelessly. The bale is prepared with two massage beds and the therapist delivers a detox massage over 90-minutes, which unravels the muscle tension and stress to the tune of different tweets. The health benefits of being immersed in such lush lands must be enormous with the massage as the icing on the cake. Delightfully discreet staff deliver a healthy, delicious lunch selected from a small menu of either a three-course Detox or Pan-Asian set menu, made with fresh local and organic ingredients. Raw green veggie salad, ABC juice and a fish curry plus raw and vegan chocolate dessert were a tasty distraction from the main game of luxe chilling. With appetite sated, sit back and enjoy the healing touch of a 60-minute reflexology massage. And just when you thought you’d reached the peak of indulgence, enjoy the delights of Alila Ubud's afternoon tea served to you in the comfort of the bale, featuring a refreshing herbal tea and a selection of local sweet treats. At the other end of the island, on the ultra glamorous Bukit peninsula,
the Alila Uluwatu could not be more different from her hillside sister. Blue dominates – the sky and ocean – as huge backdrops to the architectural white lines of this minimalist hotel. Arrive in time for a pre-spa lunch at Care restaurant starting with a lightly toasted brown bread served with olive oil, a green shredded lettuce and seasoned iceberg, fraise and arugula and baby romaine lettuce salad. The green juice feels as healthy as it is tasty. The health 'aware' main course is a warm quinoa salad with miniature zucchini, date and pea shoots with indulgent little dabs of aioli. The restaurant by the pool has a buzzing vibe with springy tunes to match chatting guests enjoying a blessed life. What rolls up next is the clean eating dessert that can only be viewed through the prism of fine dining – a mango cannelloni – filled with tiny diced papaya, slivers of mint and mango – served with lemongrass sorbet. Alia Uluwatu has some rather different choices – many of which are aimed for beauty rather than relaxation. They use the premium German skin care range, Babour, and have a microdermabrasion machine that whisks away the facial impurities and delivers a plump and fresh glow. The machine is not of the ‘diamond’ kind and does not blast skin with fine particles but it has a little attachment that strokes the skin, collecting detritus on the way. The hour-long collagen mask follows and is super cooling and smells good. This treatment is party perfect for a quick freshen up before a night out at the fabulous nearby day club, Omnia. Far up the Bali coast in the shadow of the amazing Gunung Agung is the beautiful hideaway destination of Alila Manggis – a personal favourite of many in-the-know expats from celebrity chefs to business people and uber-hip yoga gurus. It is set on the most beautiful part of the picturesque Karangasem regency with the rolling waves of the sea at one side of the property and the stunning mountain as its immense backdrop – the question is only which way to face the sunbed while waiting for a private tented bale to be set up by the ocean. The soundscape of the waves is a highlight of this serene location – from both your Alila room and the spa. Purpose-built wooden decks are the foundation of the spa here, which is curtained with flowing white linen that catches the sea breeze from the ocean less than five metres away. The shower and toilet are separately located in beautiful snail-like coils of bamboo walls that are open to the sky. The body mask of this seaside ritual is stepped up a notch with a paste of coconut, sea salt and coffee grinds – from locally grown beans – spread all over ones skin and left to dry for about 20 minutes post massage and scrub. The smell is divine and shares fragrant notes with the raw vegan chocolate dessert in Ubud. Staff at all of the Alia spas are universally well trained and the service sets a high bar. There is much to be said for the power of touch – something sadly lacking in souped up contemporary society – and every one of Alila’s therapists is skilled in delivering the caring magic of pressure points and melting delights of the body. www.alilahotels.com
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. S A N U R K U T A . T A N G E R A N G
The guts and the glory – Superfoods revealed. words: sarah douglas. photos: lucky 8.
Eating right has become very annoying. You should eat this and you must do that. If we were to listen to the conflicting advice we get, our kitchens would look like science experiments, our lives lined with kale. The truth is what our mothers taught us isn’t far wrong. Eat fresh, local food. Balance your diet with colourful veggies and keep it simple. Superfoods are all well and good but as a stand alone, they are only part of the story. Research suggests the vast ecosystem of organisms that live in our digestive systems can influence everything from mental health to athleticism and obesity. They call it poop doping, and while it may not sound good, can it taste good? The art of eating is about enjoyment. We congregate, celebrate and even commiserate around food. Is the obsession healthy, or not? That depends. Drowning your sorrows with a whole block of chocolate is not advised but imagine if that chocolate not only hit the pleasure centre, but was also raw vegan and loaded with superfoods? In A Pickle The guys at Ubud’s famous Locavore restaurant are not content to rest on their laurels. The word locavore is applied to those who source their food locally. Chefs Eelke and Ray committed to this practice when they first opened in Ubud in early 2013. Catapulting them to Bali’s number one restaurant, voted by 50 Best Restaurants Asia, hasn’t slowed them down.
Their commitment to local produce has made waves throughout Bali and expanded to other parts of Indonesia. Their focus has also given local farmers well deserved recognition for their part in the ingredient-driven restaurant scene. The latest addition to Locavore Lane, otherwise known as Jl. Dewi Sita, is Localab. This is where science meets culinary art. The single room is lined with shelves holding jars and bottles reminiscent of a chemistry experiment. This is where inspiration for brilliance happens, and it happens to be right up there with the latest advice from nutritionists. Fermented foods, essentially pickles, feed the gut with healthy microbiome. The flavour profile adds acidity and layers of flavour to dishes, turning dinner into an experience. A recent dinner resembling a smorgasboard, featured local cheeses, their own charcuterie, organic salads dressed adventurously, some experimental sourdough breads by Canggu bakery Starter Lab and a selection of homestyle braises. The pork stew, made with their locally sourced organic black pig, was old school, deep, thick, studded with vegetables with a rich broth that was taken to the next level with the addition of kimchi. The famous Korean pickle would not be found in any ordinary recipe but it resulted in a warm spice and deep flavour that made the mundane spectacular. Chief lab chef, Jacob, explained they have over 200 different pickles
oral pleasures in the raw (lucky 8); starter lab (lucky 8); locavore; kombucha.
and vinegars on their shelves and these serve as inspiration for new dishes every week. Locavore ticks a lot of boxes for healthy and sustainable food; for flavour, locally sourced ingredients, organic in most cases and for the quality of their ingredients that are packed with nature’s nutrients. Best of all you don’t feel you have to sacrifice anything. This is superfood at its finest. Locavore products can be purchased at Locavore-to-go, while meat eaters will adore their butcher shop, Local Parts. Nusantara pays homage to Indonesia’s finest dishes while Night Rooster plays with exotic cocktails, the perfect ending to a night in ‘Local-lane’. www.locavore.co.id Starter Lab They may claim sourdough as their own in San Francisco but fermenting dough to give rise to delicious bread is an ancient technique. It also turns out that this fermentation process gives one of life’s great pleasures a healthy boost. Bread is essentially flour, water and salt. These days there are loads of people turning away from gluten, however the sourdough process makes it easier to digest. It also adds to the good bacteria profile and increases the absorption of the vitamins and minerals found in wheat and other grains. Add rye and there are even greater benefits. Sourdough is a prebiotic as well an essential part of maintaining a healthy gut, and that, say the experts, is where good health begins. Starter Lab isn’t the only bakery turning out great sourdough, but their bubbly loaves are already turning heads. Newcomers Emerson and Min went out on a limb to do something they are passionate about. Emerson worked at Tartine in San Francisco and learned the art of sourdough. Teaming up with Localab on a recent dinner they experimented with including some of the lab’s pickled grains to up the superfood profile and honestly, nothing was lost in translation. The results were fantastic. Their little Canggu bakery is about to grow into a café but demand for their loaves is growing so watch out for it in your favourite café and farmer’s market. FB @thestarterlab Press Here The jury is out on juices, for various reasons, one of them being the high sugar content, however the juice fast remains a popular way to detox. Cold pressed juice is the way to go, the slower process means that the nutrients in the fruit and vegetables remain intact, giving you more vitamins for your money. In The Raw’s Mark Baker has been hawking his juice regime since he arrived on the island and many a party goer thanks him for it. The juices can be delivered to your door daily for those who choose to fast, the rest of us can head to the colourful Beach Garden café in Canggu and load up with the good stuff including raw salads, sashimi bowls, protein rich breakfasts and fruit and vegetables dressed up to dance. It’s nice to know they aren’t precious at In The Raw so alcohol and animal protein is on the menu as well. Phew. Put more veggies in your mix for better health and add additional superfoods like turmeric to boost your supers. FB @intherawbali Be Kynd To Yourself Choosing a plant-based diet has become all the rage for ethical and health reasons. While I’m a firm believer in balance and eating everything in moderation, there are those who don’t agree . . . and they will find a place they love at Kynd Community. Partners Lauren and Corinne opened Kynd as a commitment as much as a café, to feed themselves and their friends exciting plant-based foods. The response was so overwhelming they are expanding less than a year after opening in Jl. Petitengett. Vegans know that in order to get balance in their diets they need to combine foods in a clever way. It is not as easy as it sounds. At Kynd, the cup runneth over with café classics redefined. From amazing super salads to toasties piled high with colourful, vibrant toppings. And, just because you’re a vegan doesn’t mean you miss out on dessert – they
have some killer sweet treats at Kynd, top it off with a coffee with nut or coconut milk. Pop in for some kyndness and don’t forget to post on Instagram it’s almost required. www.kyndcommunity.com What Is That In The Jar? Kombucha first became a fad during the ‘80’s but this spongy looking spore could easily date back to the dinosaurs. These days there is hardly a café worthy of its sea salt that doesn’t offer it. Making your own is easy, but a little creepy (speaking from personal experience) so buying it is even better. Happy Kombucha stock a whole lot of gut-friendly products from kefir to their flavoured kombucha and their commitment to making healthy sexy has to be admired. The bottles are pretty, the flavours range from sour to soft, all with the tang that defines this super-packed beverage. The live bacteria in kombucha gives it the superfood status and these mothers (that’s what the original spore is called) attract it like bees to the honey. Much like yoghurt, the culture is live and giving it an exact profile is impossible because the source is all around us and subject to change. This is where science fails us and a leap of faith is required but essentially, like yoghurt, our gut appreciates a bit of a challenge and Happy Kombucha is a delicious way to feed it. Happy Kombucha is available at many of our favourite cafes including Milk & Madu and Sushimi. You can also buy it directly from them. www.milkandmadu.com Top It Up Nalu Ordering up a Nalu bowl can be challenging as you may have to fight off a crowd of want-to-be Insta stars first. These guys saw the poké bowl trend coming early and created the Nalu bowl, a colourful craze that has spread around the island. There is more to these pretty bowls than simply good looks though. They are loaded with antioxidants in the form of fruit, including those super blueberries. The base is a frozen smoothie, made with yoghurt (bring on the bacteria guys) and topped with home-made granola and all manner of fruit. Non-dairy eaters can replace the yoghurt with coconut water or juice and skip the honey. Here you have the complete breakfast, fiber, vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, enough to put a spring in your step and a smile on your dial. www.nalubowls.com Happy Endings The best news of all is that chocolate sits firmly in the superfoods camp. Loaded with antioxidants and phytonutrients, but before you get too excited, we aren’t talking Cadbury’s here. The closer the chocolate is to the cacao bean the better it is for you. In moderation of course, unless you fancy the 99% variety which can give you sleepless nights due to an alkaloid called theobromine. The darker the chocolate, the higher the content. Join the tours at Pod Bali for a real insight. Elevated Cacao is a newcomer on the market. The brainchild of an ex-dancer and a former corporate executive from Melbourne, these guys have somehow managed to make raw, vegan chocolate taste good. The varieties available are all loaded with superfoods, from goji to pink sea salt, ginger to maca, nuts, seeds and fruit. It is clearly a labour of love and the creamy, dark and very sexy chocolate is ultimately delicious. And isn’t that the happy ending we all crave? www.elevatedcacao.com www.podbali.com Good Cafes And Delis Ultimately in life and in eating we seek out balance, flavor and satiation. If it is also good for us, that’s even better. Bali is full of creative cooks and chefs who are bringing the science of superfoods into our lives every day. Leave your guilt at the door and eat up.
SOPHISTICATED PRIMITIVE AT HENRY'S.
perfect for the sports fan.
International standard city-style restaurants are hard to come by in Bali, for pretty obvious reasons . . . we’re not living in a city, after all, so the culinary mind more obviously turns to local fare – call it our ‘sand between the toes’ moment – so it’s refreshing when one comes along and blows the island vibe away. Henry’s Grill & Bar would fit right in to any city in the world. Located in front of the Aryaduta Kuta Bali hotel, just beside Lippo Mall Kuta, the two-storey modern space features an open kitchen that centers around two custom-made stainless steel grills, with some additional in-house entertainment, such as TV and big screen for live sports events. It’s the grill that gives the game away. Affectionately known as The Beast, this imposing wood-fired contraption designed by a Texan expatriate is put to work on the restaurant’s signature style fare: dry aged beef. “At Henry's,” says executive chef Sydney de Hart, “we work instinctively with the fire and the ingredients. Our menu is entirely powered by wood fire and everything is cooked to order. The kitchen burns a collection of different woods daily to create coals that will then be used to enhance the natural characteristics of the ingredients, and we collaborate with our producers and suppliers to bring you the best produce available each day.” Unless you’ve been living under a rock (or simply don’t go out to eat), you will be familiar with this latest culinary trend. Dry aging is the process by which large cuts of beef are aged for anywhere from several weeks to several months before being trimmed and cut into steaks. It's a process that not only helps the steak develop flavour, but also makes it far more tender than it would be completely fresh. “For Henry`s, says Sydney, “I do minimal of 30 days aging with a maximum of 50 days. The aging process starts in our custom built dry aging room, managed by our own butchers. We add our own touches, including coffee wood charcoal to the aging room, to give the beef its distinctive flavour. When the meat reaches a certain age we move to our Dry Aging Showcase in Henry's. This gives us daily stock for Henry's but also helps if guests want to take some home to cook themselves.”
Chef de Hart is no stranger to this process, in case you were wondering. “I first got involved with dry aged beef around 2012,” he told us, “when I was working back home in Amsterdam. We aged beef together with our meat supplier who was passionate about the process. Coming to Bali and having access to good quality Australian prime beef to me was a no brainer.” It all culminates in spectacularly flavoured steaks, the largest of which impresses with its sheer immensity. “We love putting out our Tomahawk,” says Sydney. “The average serve is a minimum of one kilo, and when that comes out on a wooden platter it's an impressive sight. Being aged for 30 days, the flavour is as big as the steak.” Henry`s is a take on a very old process and bringing a modern delivery style to cooking the meat. “We try and stay true to a centuries old way of aging our meat,” says Sydney, “but cooking on high-end modern wood fire grill. We also embrace a similar mindset with some of our side dishes and starters. We use processes like pickling fermentation and smoking in our own smokehouse before the food gets to the table. You'll not see steamers or ovens in our kitchen.” Key to this of course is the quality of the meat. “Our Steaks are all sourced from Australia, says Sydney. “Depending on the cut they come from Central Tablelands NSW grass fed or Central Queensland Beef. We do still source some produce locally here in Bali, but this is confined to our green vegetables and fish.” If all this sounds rather primitive, it is, gloriously so. Yet Henry’s as a restaurant is far from rudimentary in its design. The ambiance – with its semi-circular leather booths and modern design – is welcoming and cutting edge at the same time. The staff is equally well informed and attentive, befitting a great restaurant. Prices are surprisingly low for all this modernity, designed to bring you back for more. After a few icy draft beers and a Tomahawk, you won’t need to be asked twice. Henry’s is a great job well done. You won’t be sorry when you check it out. www. henrysbali.com
it's a family affair, writes sarah douglas. The tables are laid, the candles lend a soft glow and the heady scent of the flowers add romance to what promises to be another night to remember. Weddings and events take on a very personal feel with the family behind Bali Good Food catering.
event planners to put a personal spin on everything. We have a lot of restaurants to draw inspiration from and a team who have worked together since I was young. They are totally dependable, creative and a great support system. It really feels like family to me and we are a great team,” continues the vivacious and well-spoken Mira.
No two events are ever exactly alike and that is just how Mira Suarsana likes it. The 27-year-old daughter of the couple who launched the Bali Good Food company, and its many successful restaurants, brings her own creative vision to the family business.
Her favourite part, she says, is customizing the menus and the events to give each one a personal touch. There is nothing cookie cutter about their approach. “Our two most popular events are the seated dinner, usually about three to four courses and the pasar malam theme which is based on a night market with live cooking, Jimbaran-style seafood and little stalls where guests can pick and choose,” she explains.
Mira grew up around food, although never imagined she would make a career out of it. Raise in Bali she has travelled the world, studied and worked abroad before coming home to visit and finding that the family business might just be her sweet spot. Bali Good Food is a familiar name to many in Bali. With restaurants like Batan Waru paying homage to local food, Siam Sally telling a Thai tale, Cinta Grill fanning the flames for flavour, and the former Terazo showing us how good American-style café food can be, there’s a legacy of food in this family. Add to that their own organic farm, the source of much of their produce, and the catering company, BGF, and this adds up to a delicious legacy. Mira has always been passionate about food but never imagined she make a career of it. “I was working in New York and fell in love with cooking. I loved coming home with my shopping and putting a meal together but still never saw myself in the business. I was on my way to Sydney for a job interview and stopped off to see my dad in Bali and things just fell into place,” Mira explains. Mira’s Dad, Gusky, is Balinese and he is behind the creative design of the restaurants and runs the business. Her mum Karen is a New Yorker who is passionate about food and has her own entertaining blog, Kitchen in Surgency. Mira completed her studies overseas and then began her working life, coming back for visits but with no plans to settle here. “My dad offered me the job and I became totally involved in it. I love working with the 120
With four high profile restaurants behind them, some guests request Thai or Indonesian, others want a Western menu or something totally new like Indian or Mexican. Mira Suarsana.
“What’s really great is that I get to tweak the recipes and the most successful ones will appear on the restaurant menus. We recently did a Mexican feast and we designed a fish and cauliflower taco that has become one of the most popular items on the Cinta Grill menu now. That side of it is very creative and I love it.” Joining a generation of her Bali friends who have started successful businesses in Bali or are working in family-run businesses is another aspect of coming home that was unexpected. “It’s great to see how many of the friends I grew up with are doing really well in business, it’s exciting,” she laughs. Bali Good Food has been a major player in Bali for over two decades. With a fresh face to front the business, giving it new energy and driving it with creativity, the future of the foodie company looks to be in very capable hands. @baligoodfoodcatering
organised and photographed by: harper co, call me madam. terralogical, diktat photography, vivian kim.
bravo bistrot One of Seminyak'S stellar spots for dining â€“ The Bistrot â€“ has a dazzling new menu that casts a fine dining glow over a traditionally rustic menu. Ondy Sweeting taste tests.
As a piece of exquisite interior design, this uber chic Seminyak restaurant has long been top of every design dope’s bucket list when visiting the island.
dressed with olive oil and the omnipresent lemon.
After all The Bistrot is the food interest of Bali-based Belgian and Moroccan design power couple Blaise Samoy and Zohra Boukhari.
“Bali has very good ingredients, says Chef Lionel, "apart from meats which we import from Australia and New Zealand. I look to Bedugul for produce and develop the menu around what is available,” he says.
The new menu matches the exquisite space accented with damask velvet upholstered antique banquettes, ancient timepieces, televisions and cash registers as wall art.
He nods to the widely accepted fact that many Michelin starred restaurants around the world adapt and change their menu daily to suit what produce is available and at its best.
Chef Lionel Di Mayo – whose pedigree includes a couple of years as chef de partie in a three-star Michelin Hôtel Le Bristol in Paris – has spent the past 12 months at The Bistrot distilling his impressive skills into a new menu that is fresh and vibrant and deeply interesting.
“I will not freeze beautiful fresh fish only to use later. It serves our clientele to change the dish to suit the fish,” he says.
The perfect starter cocktail is an apricot Bellini that matches well with an entrée of three salads. The straightforward tomato salad is dressed in lemon juice, olive oil and sprinkled with basil leaves and just a few onion rings to create a showcase of excellent produce and delicious simplicity. This is where effortless ends and interesting begins with a more complex salad of cauliflower rice, which is prepared by lightly steaming the choufleur, cooling and transforming it into, to tiny particles. It is then woven into a salad with mint, parsley, baby tomato, onion and toasted almond slivers and then drizzled with olive oil and lemon juice. This delicate dish takes on the texture and appearance of quinoa and the subtle flavour of partially cooked cauliflower. The follow up entrée is a mouth wateringly delicious Carpaccio of red snapper that is lightly cooked by the citric acid in the lemon juice. With small dollops of thick coconut cream, this dish is a mélange of tropical and traditional French with thin slivers of lemon zest and emboldened with a little paprika and hot onion. The Bistrot’s wine list supports the menu with a fresh and tasty estate bottled Chilean chardonnay – Aromo – that worked beautifully with the salads and fish, while a Naked Range Pinot Noir from Australia nicely suits the roast beef. And we must discuss the roast beef, which is seasoned with lashings of cumin and paprika that delivers a Mexican slap elevated by cooking it over coffee wood to a sensationally tender medium rare. Served in a hot skillet the beef comes with rosemary and roasted garlic and pays homage to Chef Lionel and his well-honed culinary skills. The side dishes for the beef are a wonderful example of just how good vegetables can be. Roasted baby carrots are wonderfully tasty verging on caramelized and herb mashed potato is a creamy hit, plus a crisp salad of English spinach, crumbled feta cheese and astringent, crushed and dried black olives all
Owner Blaise Samoy says the story of The Bistrot fits with the popular healthy style of eating. “It is not possible to do fine dining in Bali due to supply lines so we have always offered delicious rustic food that is healthy rather than heavy. We have refined it further with this new menu,” he says about the new series of dishes, which has more than a few fine dining flourishes. Just check out the profiteroles and lemon tart on the dessert ticket. The choux pastry is feather light and comes with a big bowl of vanilla ice cream in the middle. Chunks of chocolate and crushed nuts are hidden within and a warm chocolate sauce, served from a classic silver gravy boat. It is excellent. The lemon tart is equally good with a tangy curd filling a buttery short crust pastry plated with soft meringue and crumbled raspberries. The bread is superb sour dough while the butter is churned with smoked paprika or lemon rind to deliver a simple dish with a difference. The choice of water is thoughtful and includes a local sparkling variety alongside Italian brands that have travelled a long distance. The Bistrot is a chic but casual restaurant with peerless style, big wooden floorboards and vaulted timber paneled ceilings. Long whirring fans keep this vast open restaurant, with a hip mezzanine dining area cool, while choice sets of music range from David Bowie to groovy Britney and Peter Frampton covers create an elegant ambience and relaxed vibe. It also has a sweet little shop showcasing some gorgeous and well-priced jewelry that make excellent gifts which you can peruse while waiting for your valet parked car. Divine. www.bistrot-bali.com
Ondy Sweeting experiences the latest incarnation – bringing fish to the fore. photos: lucky 8.
The seemingly unstoppable MyWarung series of café’s has added a gorgeous Petitenget restaurant to its expanding empire of dining destinations. It is not hard to spot the glittering MyWarung Pasar deep in Petitenget on Jalan Lebak Sari with walls of verdant plants hanging from the traditional open air wooden Joglo house that sparkle under the crystals of dozens of chandeliers. MyWarung Pasar is a departure from the raw urban style of its sibling operations in the hipster surf haven of Canggu and the hills of Ubud where black paint, polished concrete, photographs and Post It notes preside. The garden restaurant is a massive draw card to this stretch that is rapidly growing as a hot spot for food. MyWarung Pasar hits plenty of targets from its pretty twinkling lights at night, racks of plants for sale, the trademark photographs of happy diners pasted on pillars, big comfortable tables and a super happy vibe. Lovers of the original My Warung Canggu-statement style will not be disappointed as there is no mistaking its place as the newest string in the growing bow of the successful restaurant group. It is the chic aunty of the tribe. This latest incarnation takes the philosophy of MyWarung and delivers great value and honest flavours. MyWarung Pasar's menu has abandoned the simple burgers and nasi dishes that made a big impact when it first opened in Canggu last year – this restaurant has seafood at its soul. A daily delivery of the freshest seafood from the fish markets at Jimbaran are the basis of the menu that is founded on Thai dining with ginger, garlic, chili, galangal, lemongrass, sweet chili, Thai basil and Thai seasoning as the co-stars of the show. MyWarung Pasar has a huge drinks list embracing classic cocktails and bespoke tipples such as the MyWarung spirtz of sparkling wine, the artichoke liquor cynar, and fresh lemon. The coco pandan cocktail is a great start to dinner with spiced rum, coconut water, fresh pineapple and a pandan leaf delivering a refreshing and Moorish drink with the tiniest touch of sweet. The Green Jungle is a simple blend of gin, cucumber, mint leaf and citrus that is also an ideal aperitif. There is also a good selection of beers and wine for those who cannot be lured by a well-curated cocktail. The small plates selection is packed with winners starting with the Som Tum Thai – a refreshing and luscious green papaya salad that has a wheat noodle like texture on the bite creating a satisfying dish for carb-dodging diners. It’s topped with protein packed roasted peanuts, long green beans and some tomatoes and delivers an explosion of superb Thai flavours
marrying fish sauce, lime, chili and long shreds of the heavenly young fruit. The Batik Clams are juicy little molluscs served in rich red curry loaded with reduced coconut milk and sprinkled with Thai basil. It is particularly well balanced with the ginger, sugar and chili not overwhelming the delicate briny flavour of the clams. The globally loved tuna fish is showcased here as a tartare that comes in big cubes paired with slivers of Japanese nori seaweed, a brief shower of sesame seeds and lightly seasoned with kamangi dressing. Other traditional Thai offerings include the crispy squid with a sweet Thai dipping sauce and and a rich Tom Yum soup with prawns, calamari and clams. From the grill the seafood is fresh and as perfectly and simply rendered as MyWarung’s legendary Black Angus rib eye steaks. Jumbo prawns from Papua are so tender the flesh slips away from the shell and the meat of the whole fish melts away from its bones. If you are not a fan of seafood the alternative is the awesome steak for which MyWarung is rightly famous. The chef produces the medium-rare rib eye entirely right with a pink interior and seared exterior. The steak is served with three house made sauces; Thai chili, a lightly spiced tomato that is fruity and has sneaking hit of hot and a classic Balinese sambal matah. Side dishes at My Warung Pasar are flavor bombs from the garden with Chinese kalian fried up with generous amounts of garlic and fresh chili that has been pared down to have the hot seeds and pith removed and plenty of seasoning. It is crunchy and smooth while the humble eggplant is cut and diced into a unique ‘chop suey’ that had help the succulent meat and lost the fruit’s trademark bitterness. Cakes are brought in from Bali’s artisanal patisserie Dessert_Ku, which includes a divinely retro Southern classic hummingbird cake full of nuts and spice plus there is a vegan chocolate cake but the star was the tiramisu. This delicious baby of coffee, biscuit, eggs, whipped cream and powdered chocolate was presented in fabulously inappropriate 70’s style breakfast cereal bowl. My Warung Pasar, under the rule of French Canadian Chef Hugo Coudurier has created another standout eatery in Bali. It stands alone as a great grill and Thai diner. Expansion is underway and a swimming pool and garden are soon to open at the rear of the lovely antique Joglo, which will mark the launch of daytime trading. www.mywarung.com
thai flavours abound at mywarung pasar petitenget.
oral oral pleasures pleasures
mouth watering. PHOTO BY LUCKY 8.
Deep in the cosmopolitan nooks of big cities across the globe can be found astonishingly vibrant and fragrant quarters known as a “little India”. Bali has her own such sparkling place, right in the middle of Seminyak with smaller satellites in Ubud, Nusa Dua and Kuta with the much more regal name of Queen’s Tandoor. So popular is this landmark restaurant that every evening – and most lunch times – dozens of people, most of whom are Indian, can be found milling around outside waiting for a table. There is no better recommendation for food quality than to see an ethnic restaurant far from its homeland, full of diners from that same place. And the culinary delights from Queen’s hits many home runs for all lovers of the manifold ethnicities of cuisine unleashed by the diverse sub-continent. Queen’s Tandoor has a menu that is vast, with a geographical cover from Kashmir in the cool north to the hot and spicy demands of the southern regions of Kerala and Chennai. As with most Indian restaurants, Queen’s Tandoor offers an extensive supply of vegetarian dishes alongside sizzling meats from the grill and tandoor, lush seafood and chicken or mutton curries plus flavor packed biryanis, tasty snacks and thalis and copious breads. The kitchen gives an honest and home style rendering of authentic Indian classics and lesser-known regional specialities. Within moments of being seated a large bowl of crisp and light poppadams lands with a few dips – pickled onion and minted yoghurt – for dunking. The cocktail list is a revelation of what can be produced from a handful of masala. The Masala Daiquiri is similar to a sweetened green juice in colour, flavour and texture – but with a shot of alcohol and lightly spiced with cumin while the Masala Magic has the biting flavours of cumin, cloves and peppers. A plate of grilled meat appetizers includes a seekh kebab of tender minced lamb with saffron, herbs and charcoal grilled, buttery fish pieces finished in a fresh green marinate, succulent tandoori chicken and harra chicken tikka, which has been marinated in coriander, mint and chili before being placed into the tandoor for cooking. Queen’s Tandoor has 14 curries to choose from including Hyderabadi prawns with cashews spinach, mutton kofta and a scorching Goan fish curry. The dice fell to a rich and creamy chicken makanwala – the less sweet version of the ubiquitous butter chicken. The many meats dishes can be off-set by literally dozens of vegetarian delicacies. Lentils in the form of dhal have four versions including the globally
adored ‘dahl fry’ with garlic and butter through to the more unusual Mongolian dhal with ginger, garlic and secret spices from the vast steppe of central Asia. Potato, cauliflower and green peas are tossed with tomato, fresh coriander and spices to produce aloo gobi mutter while the lush and delicious sag malai wali is simple and superb. Queen’s Tandoor has a neat range of Indian snacks such as roti chanai and curry plus chicken, egg or mutton martabak with curry. Who knew that breads alone could complete a menu? Ten different types of hand crafted roti is listed starting with a basic plain naan bread to varieties including garlic, herb, cheese, Kashmiri with sugar and dried fruits and Afghani naan with cumin and egg yolk. Tandoori roti is infused with fenugreek and paratha is minted. The pillowy gilafi kulcha is leavened bread covered in saffron while the bharvan kulcha is a whole wheat bread stuffed with either spring onions or cottage cheese. Another high point of Indian dining is dessert. While Queen’s Tandoor has all of the classics such as kulfi – Indian spiced ice cream, falooda, which is a drink of milk with sherbet and ice cream plus traditional gulab – balls of powered milk deep-fried and drizzled in cardamom syrup. However, the sizzling chocolate brownies come with a flourish as the waiter poured chocolate sauce over two boules of vanilla ice cream atop two brownies on the hot plate creating a sizzling scene. The restaurant is still partially under renovations but this does not impact the new upstairs dining area, which is wildly decorated in glittering wallpaper, golden embellishments and multiple patterns across the marble accents with huge red and green velvet chairs. There is also a nice outside deck. The open street front is great for people watching while grazing on some of the best Indian food that Bali has to offer. Given the quality of the kitchen it is of little surprise that since opening its doors in 2004, Queen’s Tandoor has been busy but not without insider intelligence. Owners Mr Ramesh, Mrs Sarita, Mr Puneet and Ms Neeta created the diner as the first offshoot of Jakarta’s beloved Queen’s of India restaurant. The idea was to simply service the growing Indian wedding market with traditional cuisine but it quickly became the go-to place for lovers of Indian food. www.queenstandoor.com
sarah douglas turns japanese for a day.
Sake no Hana Omnia has taken the island by storm for more reasons than its stunning location overlooking the sea. Yes, that is pretty special too. Floating above the luxe day club is a modern Japanese restaurant that has been a mainstay of dining in the exclusive London Suburb of Mayfair since 2008. Introducing Sake no Hana, a bold and beautiful contemporary Japanese concept restaurant, to Bali is the mark of a new era for island dining. Sake no Hana belongs in the stratosphere of fine dining, with a menu full of the finest things in life from Alaskan King Crab to stunning sashimi and contemporary sushi, black cod and an inspired blend of local and imported ingredients. Sakes also come to match and the well-versed staff is part of what makes this experience so brilliant, they nail it every time. It may seem a mad mix, to have a stunning Japanese restaurant, serving the finer things in life, above a day club brimming with sparkling details, but Hakkasan are one of the world’s most successful entertainment groups and blending Omnia and Sake no Hana in one amazing location is inspired. Tel: +62 361 8482150 www.sakenohana.com/bali Yak Map G.16 Indigo Canggu Put together a group of creative French men and a brilliant Japanese menu and you have a restaurant where the design is every bit as beautiful as the food. Indigo on Jalan Pantai Berawa combines the best of these two creative traditions. When maki rolls come dressed with foie gras and sake is served by the bottle, there is a lot to get excited about here. I fell in love with the floor, who does that? Then I fell for the light, crisp tempura salad, laden with golden prawns. Cocktails are a great start here and tend towards fresh and sometimes bitter, they are different and delicious. The menu offers a range of dishes from glistening fresh sushi and sashimi, to a signature sashimi menu that is well worth exploring to some fabulous grills and even delicate desserts. The sake baba was a picture and deeply delicious. Restrained and beautifully plated, the dishes go beyond the usual Japanese menu to offer a fresh take on many of our favourites. Maki rolls with foie gras are just the beginning. Tel: +62 81998888018 Yak Map P.1 Above Eleven The hits keep coming at Above Eleven where Peruvian flair mingles with Japanese favourites in what is marked as Nikkei cuisine. The huge amount of Japanese immigrants in Peru has created a cuisine that celebrates the best of both worlds. The stinging astringency of ceviche flavours sushi rolls, fresh seafood is sliced to order and dressed with tiger’s milk, yakitori comes with delicious ingredients dressed on the stick and a few heart starters, like offal, that are much loved in Peru. The luscious grilled sticks are known as anticuchos, while tiraditos is the term for Peruvian sashimi. By any other name, the food is exciting, fresh and different. The sky bar, inspired by Above Eleven in Bangkok, offers glittering views across Jimbaran Bay and the large bar at the centre serves up a Pisco sour that is the perfect foil to fresh sashimi. Think outside of the bento box at Above Eleven, it’s delicious fun. Tel: +62 361 4725777 www.aboveeleven.com Shima It’s delightful to find a teppanyaki restaurant that you can afford to visit more than
once. Shima has set up five grills in their Petitenget restaurant, manned by some very knowledgeable Balinese chefs. That doesn’t mean that all the big hits don’t appear on this menu. You can have your fresh shrimp, your lobster and your wagyu and enjoy a nice bottle of wine or a flask of sake. You can also opt for simpler menus that even the kids will love. Shima is accessible, fun and ultimately very social. The Balinese chefs, including our star of the show, Yogi, have international experience and a few good jokes up their sleeves. Mostly they are very accomplished at the teppan grill, which turns the simplest food into joyful plates that sing with freshness and smoky flavour. Definitely worth a try. Tel: +62 361 737483 www.shimateppanyaki.com Yak Map U.4 The Sayan House The Sayan House sits on the edge of Sayan terrace Ubud and is another fusion restaurant that will surprise you in the innovative ways they have added a Latin touch to the Japanese menus. The Sayan House marries two culinary traditions beautifully here and they are definitely dancing to their own beat. Sushi gets dressed with foie gras, the California roll becomes the guacamole roll, tacos come filled with Japanese inspiration and main courses marry chili and wasabi in a range of delicious dishes from yuki ribs to latin wagyu, from Tokyo curry to tempura with a chimichurri sauce. It’s unexpected, it’s on the edge of a stunning gorge and it’s a restaurant that Ubud celebrates among its many other greats. The cocktail menu is a reason in itself to find a seat on this gorgeous precipice. Tel: +62 361 4792592 www.thesayanhouse.com Sushimi When Bondi meets Tokyo in the centre of Seminyak, its called Sushimi. The little sushi train restaurant has earned its stripes for fast, fresh and affordable sushi, sashimi, Japanese-inspired lunch bowls, grills and tempura. With lunch time special like the sushi donut and the veggie packed burritos, Sushimi knows how to have fun. With a constant flow from opening to closing time and a queue on Fridays when they offer sushi at Rp20,000 a plate, this is a regular stop for many Seminyak residents. Tel: +62 361 737816 www.sushimibali.com Yak Map U.11 Ji On the sunset terrace or seated inside the dramatic restaurant, Ji adds a little New York attitude to their Japanese eatery at the Tugu Hotel in Canggu. The fabulous interiors are signature for Tugu and Ji is a popular destination restaurant for Canggu residents and the rest of the island. Housed in a 300-year old Chinese temple, Ji marries contemporary Japanese food and inspired cocktails. With a menu created by Japanese-trained Nyoman Antara and former Michelin-starred chef, Colin Buchan, the food travels from the classical to the playful. Think scallop sushi with wakame salad and Balinese sambal, Grilled salmon with eggplant smoked over Balinese rice and Tai Nigiri with breadcrumbs and lightly poached quail egg to name a few. Best of all you can choose between Ji Terrace, overlooking the sea, a seat at the fresh sushi bar or settle into the atmospheric restaurant. Wherever you decide to perch be prepared to experience something special; the food, the cocktails and even dessert come dressed for best. Take it easy or take it seriously, Ji is one of the highlights of Canggu dining. Tel: +62 361 4731701 www.jiatbalesutra.com
taken not stirred
azul’s typsy tea drinks in the afternoon? in a tea cup? ok then. photos: lucky 8. Words; Ondy Sweeting
Whipping a magical watch wielding rabbit out of the hat is a daily event at Azul Beach Club’s Tipsy Tea party. Six bespoke cocktails have been specially created to pair with dainty snacks, edibles such as smoked salmon sliced with dill, toasted crab and prawn sandwiches and a twist on the French favourite croque monsieur. ‘Pearl of the Orient’ is a sweet cocktail take on Hong Kong pearl tea but madwe with Baileys, cinnamon infused syrup and rose syrup – but best of all it is served in a pretty split Royal Albert tea pot and cup designed by actress Miranda Kerr. It even looks like classic English breakfast white with a splash of milk but the flavour is distinctly exotic, a little sweet with a kick from the Baileys The G & Tea is made with house prepared tonic water, gin and cinnamon infused rum while the Bali Tea Fiti is a mix of Indonesian black tea, vodka,
cinnamon infused rum, passion fruit and pineapple juices and finished with a slice of dehydrated orange. It’s light and fruity and perfect with scones. Another wonderfully exotic number is the Matcha Tai cocktail and a tangy and tasty star blended from imported Matcha latte with lemon, pineapple and spiced rum. It’s served in the style of a traditional Japanese tea ceremony but in a big purpose-made cup. The kitchen has put its Mad Hatter's creative apron on to present a box of goodies including a cognac and chocolate praline lollipop, a soft meringue on a stick, a tiny classic tiramisu and a raspberry and chocolate mousse macron stamped in gold. This fabulous affair makes an elegant alternative – or pathway to – classic daily sundowners from Azul’s bamboo beach club overlooking the ocean. www.azulbali.com
Balinese pro-surfer Dyah Rahayu www.atlaspearls.com.au
www.bambusee.com & www.thefranksland.com
exotic & idyllic retreat ...where life is a private celebration
Sanur I Ubud I Nusa Dua I Jimbaran P. 62 361 705 777 F. 62 361 705 101 E. email@example.com
Villa Palma_AdYak.indd 1
8/10/2017 10:38:39 AM
tothefore a full field of players, sponsors and guests joined us for the first yak golf community cup of 2018 in conjunction with raffles club at new kuta golf, and what a day it was. check out our full set of images, plus our event video, online all the time at www. theyakmag.com or youtube And joinus on July 14 at BNGR.
supercars by nadia graha auto.
trophies by lakeman ceramics.
great days are made of this. all the fun of the fairway.
EVENT ORGANISER Pro Motion Events Tel: +623614725190 www.pro-motion-events.com Page 145 HEALTH, SPAS & SALONS Blow Bar Tel: +623613350600 www.blowbarbali.com Page 41 Yak Map R.8 Cocoon Medical Spa Tel: +628113882240/41 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com Page 77 Yak Map E.7 Glo Day Spa Tel: +62361738689/ 282 826/ 934 8844/701 5600 www.glospabali.com Page 102 Yak Map L.1, X.10 Kayu Manis Tel: +62361705 777 www.kayumanis.com Page 139 Yak Map E.16 Spoiled Tel: +623618475141/+6281999288555 www.spoiledhairdressers.com Page 8 Yak Directory Yak Map G.1 The Shampoo Lounge www.shampoolounge.com Page 2 Yak Directory Yak Map V.8 HOTELS & VILLAS Alila Manggis www.alilahotels.com/manggis Page 10-11 Alila Seminyak www.alilahotels.com/seminyak Page 10-11 Yak Map. N.5 Alila Ubud www.alilahotels.com/ubud Page 10-11 Alila Villas Uluwatu www.alilahotels.com/uluwatu Page 10-11 Yak Map G.16 Aryaduta Bali Tel: +623614754188 www.aryaduta.com/bali Page 39 Yak Map C.13 DevinSky Hotel Seminyak Tel: +623618499 555 www.devinskyhotel.com Page 131 Yak Map K.4 Four Seasons Jimbaran Tel: +62361701010 www.fourseasons.com
Page 49 Yak Map F.15 Karma Beach Tel: +62370630982/+62361848 2202 www.karmaclub.com www.karmagroup.com/karmabeach Page 103 Yak Map F.15 Ministry Of Villas www.ministryofvillas.com Page 1, 8-9 Yak Map O.10 Radisson Blu Bali Uluwatu Tel: +623613008888 www.radissonblu.com Page 47 Renaissance Tel: +623612003588 www.renaissancebali.com Page 62 Yak Map F.16 Sandat Glamping Tel: +623618946388 www.glampingsandat.com Page 54 Saranam Resort & Spa Tel: +6236821038 www.saranamresort.com Page 55 The Anvaya Beach Resort Bali Tel: +62361759991 www.theanvayabali.com Page 17 Yak Map C.13 The Trans Hotel www.transresortbali.com Page 37 Yak Map U.7 The Edge/Mesa Hotel & Resort/oneeighty Tel: +6236188470700/+62 3618470700 www.mesahotelsandresorts.com www.oneeightybali.com Page 63 Yak Map G.15 The Ungasan Clifftop Resort Tel: +623618482111 www.theungasan.com Page 6-7 Yak Map G.15 W Retreat & Spa Tel: +623614738106 www.wretreatbali.com Page 31 Yak Map K.4 MEDIA / PRINTING Supa Print Tel: +623618475740 www.supa-print.com Page 145 Yak Map C.7 MISCELLANEOUS Bali Photo booth www.baliphotobooth.com Page 4 Yak Directory
Bali National Golf Club Tel: +62361771791 www.balinational.com Page 26-27 Handara Golf & Resort Bali Tel: +623623423048 www.handaragolfresort.com Page 24 Bali Starz Tel: +62361733902 www.balistarz.com Page 102 Mason Adventures Tel: +62361721480 www.masonadventures.com Page 36 Yak Map G.11 New Kuta Golf www.newkutagolf.com Page 141 Yak Map G.16 Waterbom Bali Tel +62361755676 www.waterbom-bali.com Page 29 Yak Map C.12
Page 35 Yak Map R.8 Sardine Restaurant Tel: +628113978333 www.sardinebali.com Page 2-3 Yak Map U.3 Queen’s Tandoor Tel: +62361732770/765988 www.bali.queenstandoor.com Page 139 Yak Map.B.13/T.10 Sundays Beach Club Tel: +628119421110 www.sundaysbeachclub.com Page 6-7 Yak Map G.15 The Bistrot Tel: +62361738308 www.bistrot-bali.com Page 19 Yak Map S.8 SHOPS Atlas www.atlaspearls.com.au Page 22 Yak Map J.4 Bamboo Blonde www.bambooblonde.com Page 25 Yak Map S.8, U.11 PROPERTY Bambusee Elite Havens www.bambusee.com www.elitehavens.com Yak Map F.7 Page BIC Yak Map P.8 Page 23 Biasa www.biasagroup.com RESTAURANTS & BARS Page FIC Yak Map V.12 Da Maria Bali Deus Ex Machina Tel: +6282237733099 www.deuscustoms.com www.damariabali.com Page 48 Yak Map. T.3 Page 4-5 Yak Map O.8 Hatten Wines Bali Ibiza In Bali Tel: +623614721377 www.ibizainbali.com Page 45 Yak Map G.16 www.hattenwines.com Page 71 Yak Map G.12 Kaum Bali Heineken Light Tel: +623613007990 Page 28 www.kaum.com Page 43 Yak Map L.5 John Hardy Tel: +62361469888 Luigi’s Hot Pizza Page 129 Yak Map M.1 www.johnhardy.com Page 21 Yak Map B.15 Motel Mexicola Paul Ropp Tel: +62361736688 Page 33 Yak Map N.6 Tel: +62361701202/730212/730023/974369/8 496908 MyWarung www.paulropp.com Tel: +6281238059687 Page BC Yak Map T.8 www.mywarung.com Page 12-13 Yak Map S.3, Q5 Periplus www.periplus.com OMNIA Dayclub Bali Page 145 Yak Map F.13/P.7 www.omniabali.com Page 15 Yak Map G.16 Sensatia Botanicals Tel: +6236323260 Salazon/En.Vie Lane www.sensatia.com Tel: +623619342100 Page 113 Yak Map P.7 www.envielane.com
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From the 5th until the 19th of June Mercury transits its home sign of Gemini which is in your third house of communication and the mind. Clarity and perception are very sharp now. These resources will serve you well with family issues this month. Be patient with your burgeoning innovative ideas. They will see the light of day but let the Universe help you with the timing of their implementation. Be here now! It is vacation time, so unwind a bit. New friends may offer fresh insight. A shift in energy at the solstice helps you to feel closer to that future dream.
taurus During this period the Sun, Mercury, Venus, Mars and Saturn take up occupancy in your first three houses of identity, values and the mind. It is a rich time to explore what makes you tick and what you want. Challenge yourself. There may be a hiccup of unbullish self-doubt early on and even a little reticence about reaching beyond your safety zone. On your path, however, there is no going backwards so embrace the new currents. Creative energy is strong and giving full expression to it will be a steadying influence. Go shopping and buy an inspiring book. Chat up friends and keep them informed about what’s important to you now. You may find a good sounding board and a great friend. gemini Happy Birthday to you, Gemini … both of you! Your birthday gift will be a great adventure. It’s all about feeling, passion and possibility during this time but don’t be alarmed, intelligent one. It’s really an awesome opportunity to re-balance your sometimes overused right brain and underappreciated left brain. Take action to step out of your safety zone a bit. Roll with the flow. Step out of responsibility mode a little and stand in your joy. Ask how you see yourself becoming more free to be who you want to be in career and relationship. You may feel there are some new talents or skills to learn or bring into what you already do. Plant some of those seeds now.
libra Your ruling planet is Venus which is the highlight of the planetary show. Energy should be pulsing through your veins when retrograde Venus moves across the face of the Sun in the second week of June. Insight and inspiration will be sparked. Retrograde means that we are re-considering ideas or going back over old territory we visited just a couple months earlier. The best way to handle a retrograde period is to go within rather than try to make sense out of unsettled external circumstances. This is a period for the Soul and not the mind. Venus is retrograde in your 9th house of philosophy and higher teachings. Maybe you are searching for answers to some of your deepest questions or looking for the right path for you. Keep yourself inspired. scorpio You are on a roll. Things will be heating up as time goes on. The energy of transformation abounds and we all know that is appealing to scorpions. If you could sit down at a drafting table and re-design who you are, what would the new you look like? Think about it while this deliciously intense energy abounds but don’t set yourself up to become a martyr to your own idealism and expectations. Your optimism is on an uptick. Friends are looking for you to be the life of the party. This could be a time for profound illumination. Balance fun and inspiration. If a new path or direction are what you are looking for then give them a chance. Listen to the whispers. sagittarius
Wow! Benevolent Jupiter remains in your career house through August. Healer asteroid Chiron occupies your second house of talents and money. Spiritual Neptune occupies your third house of the mind. Things are building toward a crescendo later this year. This month gives you an opportunity to clear away thoughts that might block your optimism and confidence about those approaching changes. Feelings and passions may get stirred up but clarity and wisdom will win the day. Friends might disappoint you but maybe it is a message about being among those who are more supportive of you. Vacation or rest and relaxation are a requirement this period.
Saturn, the lesson bringer of the zodiac, normally indicates a time for introspection, focus and discipline with respect to developing who we want to be. Saturn reaches the middle degrees of your birth sign and thereby provides an opportunity to get some perspective on your progress in these matters over the last year. In addition dynamic, innovative Mars inspires us to action and stirs our creative passion. You may be inspired to go back into your shell for respite and safety but consider the ramifications if you do. Communications, teaching or writing are generally strong now.
Healer asteroid Chiron completes its transit of your sun sign over the next nine months and won’t return there for almost 50 years. These nine months are the perfect gestation period for creating a more healthy relationship with your sense of responsibility. Practice easing up on yourself in this department particularly in the area of relationships. The ruler of your sun sign is Saturn which is transiting through your relationships house. Put yourself on notice… I am not responsible for his or her happiness. Focus on breaking through your fear of letting others down.
It is time to hone in on creative fulfillment through career. Your energy and talents need to be expressed more fully and opportunities in this area are coming into focus. You might feel you are bursting at the seams for some creative shift, but don’t take any short cuts. Be as clear as you can be about your goals and what you need for cellular level creative satisfaction. If you can be clear about what you want, then what you want will come to you. This is a good time for emphasis on purification, health and service to others. You may feel like indulging yourself by buying something nice. Go for it!
Benefic planet Jupiter rolls through your sun sign until September. For now that means the energy of expansion abounds. Keep these energies well harnessed and in balance. Keep your perspective. What are your most important priorities and goals? This is the best time to practice the art of conscious intention and thereby let go of some of those encumbering control issues. What do want to manifest? Remember that the practice of intention presumes that there is a Universal intention that is the guiding creative force of the Universe. Although you have a flawless capacity to make things happen, don’t get so swept away or overconfident that you lose sight of your relationship with the All That Is.
Retrograde Neptune spends this time smack dab in the middle of your sun sign. The uncertainty continues but fear not. Watery Neptune will ultimately energize your airy, thought-filled energy field with feelings of passion and creativity. Avoid the temptation to escape to your ivory tower of idealism. Being smug simply won’t solve anything now. Focus instead on home, nest and comfort. Nurture yourself big time. Be on guard about falling into an old rut at work. Your developing more patience now will pay huge benefits in a couple of months. A summer romance is possible. Do something wonderful with the family. Make a meaningful connection with the children.
pisces There is some tension between your fourth house of needs/emotions and your 10th house of career/showing up to others. Take a look at how you put the needs and expectations of others above your own needs. Take notes, keep a diary, communicate, be honest to yourself. Get things out in the open. The sky is not going to fall if you define your life on your terms! Be with the family. Keep the company of like-minded, inspiring friends. Start a new, self-nurturing discipline like a yoga class or membership at the gym.
The lighter and darker sides of Bali, Asia's fashionable playground.