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B I A S A G R O U P. C O M B A L I S E M I N YA K - S A N U R - U B U D | J A K A R TA K E M A N G

N a omi & S a r a h S oe ta r jo

Volume Forty-SEVEN JUNE/JULY/AUGUST 2015 The Yak Magazine Sophie Digby, Agustina Ardie, Nigel Simmonds Creative Director Stuart Sullivan Sales & Marketing Peta Johnston Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika Publisher PT Luxury In Print Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011 Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 085100431804, 085100431805, 085100431796

¨ make-up: tamika photo: amberly valentine. styling: the O. monroe. hair: keifer lippens, post production: the collective. top by state of georgia. e:,

OK you know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or

The Yak Magazine, Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia

reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed within this publication are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design

© PT Luxury In Print

criteria. The Yak will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors.

The Yak Magazine Bali.


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contents 30

Yak On


Fridge Magnets


Charity Begins...

Yakety yak

dates with destiny

one world


New Billings


Product Collective


Bali 80361

new in the hood

out of the box


80 22


The Atlas of Beauty


Trudi Christensen


Lisa Crosswhite

culture vulture




Gail Elliott


Luna Maya


Helen Milne






Amphetamine Logic


All Aboard E&O


yak fashion



High Seas


Balquisse Heritage


Edge of Glory


Maximilian Jencquel


Venting in a villa

oral pleasures



Savour the finest classic Italian cuisine in Seminyak, Bali.


11:30AM TO MIDNIGHT Featuring an all-day menu of classic Italian specialties, finest wines and cocktails.

contents P: 90 Omnibus: fangbangers & vampire queens.




Beachclub Brasserie


Bejana Authentic


Nikki Beach

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

102 26


Baker Street


The Legian


Big Six: Caviar


Client Clobber

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

oral pleasures

fashion freestyle



sounds around

Pharcyde Imani




What's What


Horror Scope



advertiser's directory

astro yak


Wikipedia’s stated ambition to “compile the sum of all human knowledge” has landed the erstwhile online knowledge bank in a little bit of trouble. “The volunteer workforce that built the project’s flagship, the English-language Wikipedia, must defend it against vandalism, hoaxes, and manipulation” comments MIT Technology Review. Thankfully at The Yak our ambition has never been quite that broad, although we do seem to have the sum of one facet – luxury lifestyle – well in hand on this less than large isle. Although we say it ourselves, we do actually think we are rather fabulous at compiling, platforming, supporting, collecting, assembling and gathering all forms of island splendour – be it human, hotel or haute couture. Our workforce? A magnificent, multifaceted, multitalented team that comes together to manifest each and every fantastic issue; it defends against monotony, champions for artistry and inspires this Island of Bali. With this, our latest contribution, we have had the immense pleasure in assembling New in The Hood and championing four very worthy charities, each one close to our heart and in need of your support, so share, share and share alike – be it pennies or postings on your wall. It is time to gather our very own Bali 80361 (anyone remember Beverly Hills 90210?) before we introduce to you a “maven on a mission” and her Atlas of Beauty in Culture Vulture. We proudly InterWho you to a gaggle of gorgeous gals who are hitting the fashion stakes in Bali and off-shore. Taking it darkish for Omnibus, we check out those pesky energy vampires before getting risqué in Yak’s very own Fashion spread assembled by the creatively gifted Madame O.¨ With our hunter gatherer mode in full swing, we tick off the many Oral Pleasures available to us on this 80km x 120km land mass, before we take you on what could possibly be the most elegant visa run anyone could opt for, the Eastern Orient Express – Singapore to Bangkok. Boating, Balquisse and bamboo are next on the inspiration board as we fluff it up a bit with Fashion Freestyle and a few fab tracks. Finally we will make one broad sweeping claim – we have the sum of all astrological knowledge in AstroYak, penned – or better said keyed by our very own dear Dr Deepak. And as you yourself start compiling, platforming, supporting, collecting, assembling and gathering all forms of island splendour, we remind you as always: May the Yak be with you.


yakback Dear Yak, I have read the last two editions of The Yak and I have to tell you the content is great. I have much more knowledge about Bali than ever before and the printing quality is excellent. Congratulations! Regards, Rahayu, Jakarta. Sometimes people think we make these letters up. Dear Yak, I love your magazine – I have a copy of it here on the desk with me at work. I always make sure to pick one up when I am over in Bali. Kindest, Reyes, Inebriant Hustler. Less work, more Bali, Mr Reyes. Call us when you're here.

Dear Yak, I love Yak mag! Regards, Arief Bedel Congratulations Arief! You made it into The Yak. Dear Yak, I read The Yak while in Ubud for a recovery weekend at Como Shambhala … I read it literally from front to back, and I never do that with magazines. Love, love, loved it, so well done. Regards, Lisa, Gnossem, Singapore. I know right. We get a lot of letters from insomniacs who read the mag when they can't get their zeds. Never fear ... only three sleeps til Christmas!

In The Lap Of: Donald Trump Oh Donald, Donald, Donald . . . always with the hair, the hair, the hair. And the money. THE MONEY! Anyway, rumour has it, The Donald has bought The Golf Course at Tanah Lot, and all its ancillary bits and bobs. Which means you can either expect to have a fabulously awesome Links Course and a(n) hotel on it (with gold taps), or . . . you're FIRED! Fried like a chicken in a microwave. Nuked! Oh Bali, what a lamentable demise. Unless of course the upgrade is epic, in which case, you're HIRED! And let's have a pay rise too!


Susan Hu counts the days . . .

BALI ARTS FESTIVAL NOW in its 37th year, the Bali Arts Festival is the island’s biggest traditional and contemporary arts and culture festival featuring vibrant dance and music performances, art exhibitions, documentary films, cultural processions, photography workshops and competitions, culinary treats from around the island and the archipelago, and much more. This year the theme is Jagaditha: Strengthening Public Welfare, and the event will kick off with a lively parade on June 13 starting at Renon Square next to the Bajra Sandhi monument. For the following three weeks, visitors can stop by the Denpasar Arts Centre to see some of Indonesia’s finest artists display their talents at the open stages, auditoriums and outdoor pavilions. The festival will close with a traditional sendratari ballet performance on July 11. BALI GOURMET FESTIVAL FOODIES are already salivating at the prospect of having some of the island’s top chefs all in one place showcasing their exquisite cuisine and hosting innovative and interactive programmes that are dedicated to cooking and eating. The Bali Gourmet Festival will take place from August 14 to August 16 at the Nusa Dua Convention Centre, and it will

IF YOU’RE IN SINGAPORE . . . July 10 to 19 – Singapore Food Festival: Being the gastronomic haven that it is, Singapore is a primo setting to celebrate the art of eating, and the Singapore Food Festival encourages exactly that. Now in its 21st year, this culinary carnival is a chance for locals and visitors alike to enjoy the unique flavours of Southeast Asian cuisine with a focus on classic Singaporean dishes like grandma used to make, as well as innovative fusion dishes that put a new spin on old favourites. During the festival you will find vibrant food stations around the city featuring gastronomic delights by hawker stall vendors as well as some of the country’s top chefs and restaurants. July 27 to August 24 – Hungry Ghost Festival: During the seventh month of the lunar calendar, Singapore’s Chinese community believes that the souls of the dead roam the earth. According to the locals, the ghosts are not content to simply hang out with old family and friends. Instead they must be appeased with offerings and entertainment so that they don’t cause too much trouble. Visit Singapore during the Hungry Ghost Festival and you will see Chinatown and select areas around the city come alive with colourful shrines full of paper money, joss sticks, and food, as well as tents offering up boisterous feasts, and stages showcasing Chinese opera, dance, comedy and musical performances. IF YOU’RE IN THE NETHERLANDS . . . June 30 to July 5 – Amsterdam Roots Festival: This global music, arts and culture festival is one of the biggest 34

host world-renowned chefs from some of Bali’s best five-star hotels and restaurants as well as street food vendors and international food and beverage brands. Just a few of the attractions on offer include the Oktoberfest Beer Garden, Champagne Room, Chef’s Cookery Theatre with live demos and workshops, the Whisky and Chocolate Dessert Lounge, Afternoon Tea at the Ritz, Kids’ Zone, and live music performances. DREAMFIELDS FESTIVAL WITH the phenomenal success of the Dreamfields electronic dance music (EDM) party in the Netherlands, Dutch party promoters Matrixx Events decided to try the concept in a tropical island setting. The first Asian edition of the Dreamfields Festival took place in Bali last year, and the event was an immediate success with sold out ticket sales. This year they are back again on August 15 at the GWK Cultural Park for another mesmerising display of lights, stage sets, and thumping beats by internationally acclaimed DJs. The park itself features towering statues and limestone pillars, and the festival will showcase multiple stages and areas with different styles of EDM from top DJs like Andrew Rayel, Firebeatz, Vinai, and Indonesia’s own Angger Dimas.

in Holland, and it attracts musicians and artists from countries as widespread as South Africa, Mongolia, Brazil, Bangladesh, and Argentina to name just a few. In past years they have attracted over 60,000 revellers at a time grooving to musical performances in genres like hip-hop, rumba, flamenco and zouk. Concerts and performances will take place at unique indoor venues around the city like Melkweg, Paradiso, and the North Sea Jazz Club, but the main event will be a free open-air concert and bazaar at Park Frankendael on July 5. July 25 to August 2 – Amsterdam Gay Pride: Fun, flamboyant, and a little bit feisty, Amsterdam’s gay pride celebration attracts over 150,000 people every year who come to celebrate diversity and take part in the many festivities taking place throughout the week. Join in to take part in street parties galore, open-air theatre performances, film festivals, sporting events, and plenty of club circuit parties going down on nightly basis. Be sure not to miss the Canal Parade on August 1st, which features over 100 lavishly decorated boats cruising down the waterways. August 14 to August 23 – Amsterdam Canal Festival (Grachtenfestival): Music lovers of all ages can take part in this classical music and jazz festival that boasts more than 80 concerts at architecturally stunning venues around Amsterdam. The concerts will take place in historic buildings, museums, concert halls, parks and the homes and gardens of local residents. Children can also take part in the Junior Grachtenfestival, where they can

learn about classical music through storytelling, theatre, games and workshops. For both the regular and children’s programmes new performance locations are added every year, and many of the concerts are free or have entrance fees that are kept as low as possible. IF YOU’RE IN NEW ZEALAND . . . June 19 to June 28 – Queenstown Winter Festival: This buzzing winter festival began in 1975 when a group of locals decided that the onset of winter was as a good an excuse for a party as any. Since then it has become one of the southern hemisphere’s biggest bashes with visitors turning up from around the globe to hit the slopes and partake in rocking street parties, concerts, comedy acts and fireworks displays. And with Queenstown being the adventure capital of New Zealand, there are plenty of activities to get the adrenaline pumping like bungee jumping, zorbing, paragliding and canyon swinging. August 24 to August 30 – New Zealand Fashion Week (Auckland): Arguably the country’s most glamorous event, New Zealand Fashion Week gives talented local designers the chance to show off their Autumn/Winter 2015 collections to a huge national and international audience. Set against the backdrop of the glittering harbour at the ANZ Viaduct Events Centre in Auckland, this is where fashionistas and industry bigwigs will converge to take in the latest trends, share ideas and inspiration, and enjoy the animated atmosphere. You can expect to see both established and up-and-coming brands like Lela Jacobs, Company of Strangers, Moochi, Huffer, and Sly Guild.

Music For A Rainy Season Sensual Asian Ambient compilation CD

A soundtrack for your island life.....

Available at luxury Resorts & Spas in Bali

giving back Kupu-Kupu Foundation LIVING with a disability is never easy, but especially when you live on an island where wheelchair ramps (and wheelchairs for that matter) are few and far between, government disability assistance is scant, and public awareness is low. In Bali there are few schools that can accommodate handicapped children, so many never go to school at all, and even adults with disabilities often find themselves confined to the home and unable to participate as fully functioning members of society. Kupu-Kupu Foundation was created with the aim of alleviating some of these burdens and making life easier for people with disabilities in Bali. Kupu-Kupu Foundation was officially established as a yayasan in 2002, and since then they have been helping to improve lives by assisting with medical care, medicines, physiotherapy and surgical operations, providing wheelchairs and other physical aids, adapting facilities to make them easier to use by people with disabilities, transporting disabled children to and from school, and helping disabled people become more independent by selling and promoting handicrafts that they make. They also work to increase awareness in the local community of the challenges that people with disabilities face. The foundation does not receive any government funding, so they rely on donations and support from the public as well as income raised from their two non-profit ventures. The Kupu-Kupu Bungalows are located in the midst of lush rice paddies at the end of a quiet street in Ubud, and they make for a peaceful hideaway for guests looking to relax and unwind in a traditional Balinese setting. More importantly, the bungalows provide work opportunities for people with disabilities. The foundation’s other venture is the Kupu-Kupu Shop located on Jalan Raya Ubud. Here you can find ethical gifts like beautifully painted artworks and colourful handicrafts made by disabled people using local materials. Begawan Foundation THE Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Karana encourages harmony among fellow human beings, harmony towards God, and harmony with the environment, and this forms the basis of the Tri Hita Karana Awards. Each year the awards committee honours outstanding organisations that uphold the values of Tri Hita Karana and work to enhance local Balinese and Indonesian society at large. On April 1st, Begawan Foundation was the proud recipient of the Tri Hita 38

are you a giver or a taker, asks Stephanie Mee?

Karana Nugraha Award 2015. Established in 1999 by Bradley and Debbie Gardner, Begawan Foundation was launched with a mission to give back to Bali’s local population by addressing nature conservation, education and healthcare needs. Its first initiative was the Bali Starling Conservation Project, which launched a successful Breeding & Release programme for this critically endangered species. Between 1999 and 2005, the Foundation’s captive starling population grew from four to 97 birds. To achieve its goals of bringing the Bali starling population back from the brink of extinction, the Begawan Foundation released flocks of the birds into the wild in 2006, 2007, 2012 and 2014. The most recent releases by Dr. Jane Goodall in June 2014 and Ban Ki Moon in August 2014 at Sibang are just testament to how successful the organisation has been in achieving their goals and raising awareness of the issue. As a not-for-profit organisation, Begawan Foundation relies on donations to assist its important work. Funding to support and expand existing programs, monitor and engage local communities and schools in conservation and preservation of the environment, and developing and maintaining its breeding site in Sibang Kaja is always welcome.

water conservation and education in Jembrana and Gesing; Turning Trash to Treasure, a waste management initiative on Nusa Ceningan; and the Bali Water Protection Program that aims to provide solutions to the water crisis on Bali by returning rainwater to water tables through open wells, educating children about river stewardship, and raising awareness about the importance of water via a media campaign.

Bye Bye Plastic Bags DUTCH/INDONESIAN sisters Melati and Isabel Wisjen may only be teenagers, but that hasn’t stopped them from tackling an issue so huge that many believe it is simply unsolvable. That issue is plastic, and Bali is currently drowning in it. One needs only to stroll down the beach at low tide or meander alongside one of Bali’s many rivers to see mountains of plastic in all shapes and forms. Yet unlike many who recognise the problem but do nothing about it, Melati and Isabel have come up with a solution. The seeds for Bye Bye Plastic Bags were planted during one of Melati’s lessons at The Green School when the class was discussing significant people in the world and which role models they most wanted to be like. Melati realised how important it was to start taking action now to change the world tomorrow. Shortly after, she and Isabel started talking about what they could do to make Bali a better place now and in the long-term, and they realised that IDEP Foundation plastic was one of the major problems. IN 1998, Indonesia entered a phase of severe financial Bye Bye Plastic Bags started as a simple Facebook page and social crisis. In response, a diverse group of people that encouraged people to stop using plastic bags, and it from Bali got together to discuss how they could best quickly gained a huge following. This encouraged the girls help. They discussed the challenges that Indonesian to produce a video about the plastic problem on Bali, and communities were facing, and decided to focus their create an Avaaz petition calling for a total ban of plastic attention on creating NGO programs that would offer organisations training to assist local communities to provide bags on the island. The sisters also organized a team of over 25 children to spread the word about the campaign, food, shelter, energy and other needs in a sustainable and and organized a pilot programme in Pererenan to remove environmentally friendly way. and replace plastic bags from the shops in the area. In the After the tragedy of the Bali Bombings in 2002, IDEP future they plan to manufacture and distribute alternative expanded their focus to disaster relief and began to realise the importance of incorporating disaster preparedness into shopping bags throughout village. In addition to raising awareness about plastic and their programs. Since then, the foundation has developed pollution on Bali, the most pressing goal of Bye Bye Plastic a handbook for community-based disaster management and disaster risk reduction, and to this day they continue to Bags is to reach one million signatures on their petition. focus on training, community programs, and media related You can do your part for Bye Bye Plastic Bags by signing the petition and sharing widely. to sustainable living, permaculture, and community-based disaster risk reduction. Some of IDEP’s current community model projects include Bring Back Our Forests, which involves tree-planting,

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HABIT FORMING The Butcher Social Habitat is the latest fabulous addition in the new line up of restaurants in Bali’s famous surfing neighborhood Berawa. The brains and brawn behind the hoopla is none other than our very own Chef Sandy Voogt, who brought us one of our favourite restaurants Habitual Quench and Feed with it’s sensational burgers and comfort food. At the Butcher Social Habitat you can expect more of the same great quality, sensational steaks and first class service. On Friday nights live music is on the cards and when things heat up loyal customers can be seen joining in the chorus. Tel: 0361 224515

LOVELY LILLA LANE Thora Moss is the creator and designer behind her label and shop Lilla Lane. Her clothing is inspired by her upbringing in the sophisticated and artistic community of East Hampton, New York. Thora, a 30-year resident of Bali, named the label as a tribute to the street she lived on in East Hampton that was named after her stylish mother Lilla. Her designs are inspired by her journeys throughout the world, but maintain an easygoing Hamptons and Bali feel. Each piece comes with a handmade feature that is a showcase for Balinese craftsmanship. Now available at the company's first international store in Singapore at Cluny Court. Tel: 0361 738853 CASAMAYOR Bali is a magnet for designers from all over the world and the latest addition doesn’t fail to impress. French interior designer and gallery owner Marie Schmidt has moved from her native France to Bali to open Casamayor, a stylish new homeware store in Berawa, Bali’s burgeoning neighborhood. Marie was the owner and curator of the prestigious NOSE (standing for Northwest, Southeast) gallery in the chic area of St. Germaine de Pres in Paris, where her gallery housed collections of some of Bali’s favourite artists like popular pop art painter Andrew Wellmen and master furniture craftsman Etienne de Souza. Tel: 0878 6013 3583


DASHINGLY DIFFERENT Location, location, location . . . you can’t get any more central than the Dash, the latest in a line up of new and different hotel offerings in the centre of Seminyak. The uber industrial design adds a touch of street culture and public art to the scene, with modern, brightly painted sculptural mannequins in primary colours hanging off the front balconies of the hotel. Dash comes with a warning … this place is for the young or the young at heart. Rooms are spacious, well appointed and extremely contemporary and instead of waking up with a teddy bear there is the added twist of a stuffed red bunny on the bed, one of many humourous touches. A nightclub, restaurant, spa and other facilities are available too, so if you're heading for a “city weekend” this is your ultimate crash pad. Tel: 0361 3004666

vintage van Plaga Wines – a favourite quaff on the island and a favourite with Yakkers – is opening a new moveable feast with a tricked out Kombi, (Volkswagen van) that will be bopping around the island as a portable bar and playpen for the punters. It’s all in the Plaga spirit of cool, spontaneous and playful fun with parties on the go. Look forward to seeing Plaga’s Vintage Van at hotspots around the island serving up its refreshing wine that slides down a treat.

nese Japa 2011 E C SIN

Authentic Japanese Cuisine

a taste of Japan

Goda Kats Katsumimi We bring you the Japanese style brunch with a selection of authentic dishes in the contemporary setting of Benkay Japanese Restaurant. Only at IDR 480,000 net per person, you can enjoy an endless spread of Japanese favorites with free flow green tea and a complimentary sake shooter or Sapporo beer. Extend the experience with complimentary day pass that allows you to enjoy our 4 inter-connected swimming pools and semi secluded beach, including a private section at Serenity beach for a tranquil retreat. GRAND NIKKO BALI Jalan Raya Nusa Dua Selatan +62-361-773-377 | | Grand Nikko Bali



WINE ON THE WAVES Never one to rest on its laurels, Mozaic Beach Club has introduced a new wine bar and the new Mozaic Brasserie where you can choose from the versatile a la carte menu and salivate over their sensational French cuisine with the intriguing flavours of the Indonesian archipelago. The newly opened Wine Room is a place for guests to drop in, have a great glass or two and pick up a few interesting bottles to bring home. There is an elegant private dining room for special events all set in a sophisticated setting overlooking the beach club lounge and Batu Belig beach beyond. Mozaic Beach Club is the swinging sister of Bali’s culinary institution, Mozaic Ubud. Tel: 0361 4735796

DREAM BIG Dreamfields Festival is set to rock Bali again after the success of last year’s event. The Dutch Electronic Music Dance festival will host its second successful event on Saturday 15th of August at the GWK Cultural park in South Kuta. Dutch organisers Matrixx last year successfully connected 50 different nationalities on the Mighty Garuda stage under the watchful eye of Barong, the leader of all that is good. Outstanding stage designs, mesmerizing shows with lasers, fireworks and entertainment are all part of the A class production.

Grand Brunch by Grand Nikko Grand Nikko Bali pulls out the Japanese stops at their all-you-can-eat – and I mean stuff yourself – Sunday Brunch in Nusa Dua. This 11am-3pm extensive buffet is headed up by the very talented Chef Goda Katsumisan. The all-inclusive day-pass with buffet costs Rp480k nett per person and comes with a complimentary sake shooter or Sapporo beer. Just to give you the heads up on what the day pass allows: you can spread out over their four interconnected pools and laze the day away on the secluded stretch of white sand beach. Oh, and did we mention they even have camels next door, should you want to get over last week's hump day with ease. Tel: 0361 773377

THREE PART HARMONY In its third successful year, the Ubud Jazz Festival is coming back to the artistic village of Ubud on the 7-8th of August. This year there is a Bali International Jazz Summer School for budding Louis Armstrongs and mini Miles Davises. Since 2010 Yuri Mahatma, a musician, composer and music teacher as well as the founder of the Underground Jazz Movement, and Anom Darsana, the director and owner of Antida Music Productions have put this show together with over 1,000 volunteers. The festival’s focus isn’t on big groups it’s on perfectly formed performances from over 100 musicians giving only about 25 gigs over the three-day period. Perfection in three part harmony is the key here with great venues, excellent musicians and pitch perfect performances. This event has become an Asian attraction for jazz enthusiasts in the region, so get your tickets now. Tel: 0361 285196


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GRAND DAME DOES IT AGAIN The Legian, one of Bali’s treasured institutions, is where the beautiful people go to wine and dine and where guests from overseas flock like birds of a feather in high season to strut their stuff. An all-suite hotel, The Legian is built like a private beachfront estate with gorgeous gardens enveloping the split-level swimming pool, which makes it a peoplewatching nirvana. The refined dining is served at the simply named Restaurant. The latest dining sensation on Friday nights is The Legian Seafood Indulgence served at 7pm on the beachfront next to The Ocean Bar. Executive Chef Luke MacLeod hand picks the seafood that you can enjoy barbecued or made into mouth watering hot pot curries. On Sunday’s you can chillax to live jazz music while sipping a cocktail overlooking the pristine white sand beach – now that’s harmony. Tel: 0361 730622

ARE YOU AN ANGEL? Time to spread those wings again and fly, or in this case, dance! It’s the annual audacious I’m An Angel charity event at KU DE TA on the 11th of July. This year’s event will shift from a gala dinner, as in previous years, to a Music & Street Festival style, with a fundraising day party that starts at 2pm and rocks until 11pm. There will be a great line-up of bands on stage to entertain the troops including Jason Heerah and Band and Jakubi, both hailing from Australia, as well as Indonesia’s Art Of Tree and Marapu with The KDT All Stars are also lined up to deliver the goods. The popular silent auctions are still being held where amazing bargains can be had as well as food stalls supplied by some of Bali’s top restaurants serving up street fare from KU DE TA, Barbacoa, Mozaic, Merah Putih, Eatwell, Cuca, Sarong and Motel Mexicola. All of the proceeds go to the needy children and families of Bali. Tickets are on sale for Rp250,000 with the first 200 guests receiving a free drink. Tel: 0361 736969

BEACHFRONT BABY Beachfront baby, that’s what it’s all about. The Open House is a new boutique hotel that has its own private beach club set on the sought-after position of Jimbaran Bay, sharing the sand with other prestigious five star hotels in Bali. Guests here can start their day with a morning walk along the white sandy beach, or just relax on the sun loungers while taking in the local colour of idyllic island life. Watch fisherman prepare their traditional boats and fishing nets before leaving the shore to the ocean to catch your fish of the day. The area also boasts some of the most dramatic sunsets over the Indian Ocean. The owners are keen to point out that the hotel has been built with the community and environment in mind, with large bamboo and alang-alang structures that blend in with the natural surroundings of the community, making it an attractive natural addition to village life. Tel: 0361 709160


JUST PHO YOU Saigon Street is bringing the flavour of the streets of Vietnam to you in Bali. With celebrity chefs starting to make Bali a destination foodie haven, Saigon Street doesn’t disappoint with award-winning Chef Geoff Lindsey at the helm of this new gem. Saigon Street utilizes his experience to create a fun, relaxed, streetfood menu, full of new takes on old favourites, like rice paper rolls, la lots, pho’s, curries and grills. The design doesn’t disappoint either with Australian interior designer Alex Zabotto creating cool urban interiors that juxtapose Saigon, Barcelona and Buenos Aires. We can’t wait to try their sugar cane juice cocktails and their authentic French bread, a Vietnamese tradition, made daily. DEFYING GRAVITY Sitting pretty in the tropical jungle foliage adjacent to the sacred Ayung River, the new Dharma Shanti Yoga Bale is offering Bali’s first Anti-Gravity Yoga classes where you can take in the spectacular rice paddy views from a different angle altogether … upside down while doing the “flying dog pose” ! The lotus petal inspired structure is created entirely of bamboo and as Spa Director Louisa Anderson explains “drawing from the spirit of Buddhist philosophy, the concept of dharma refers to the intrinsic nature of things, your true purpose, while the world shanti comes back to peace. Watching the bale take shape felt like the architectural embodiment of those concepts”. Tel: +62 361 701010


CHIC BATIK Quarzia, the label founded by two Italian designers have made their love of Bali and the traditional way of making batik an integral part of their designs. Here the batiks come in luxurious fabrics like silk and chiffon and it’s so chic that it flies off the shelves in their shop and can be seen around the world on some of the most picky fashionistas. This is an artisans product not something that is mass produced as each piece is hand made. Not shy of colour their patterns are bold, bright and fresh yet it’s a very sophisticated crowd that is drawn to their label. Their charming airy boutique beautifully combines the warm Asian colour palette with understated Italian elegance so it’s a pleasure to shop in and you won’t leave empty handed. There are also some gorgeous bags, leather accessories and men’s t-shirts to pick up with illustrations designed by local artists. Tel: 0361 736644

WHO'S A HAPPY CHAPPY Happy Chappy Chinese Restaurant is as much fun to say as it is to adore. The impressive brick and tile building with a big red round wooden door would be more at home in Beijing than Bali but we are just happy it’s here. A relaxed and graciously spaced dining room is filled to the brim with boisterous conversations competing with the clanking of dim sum and tea service. For those seeking more happiness, the Dragon’s Den is serving up sensational spirits and wines. This is a place for everyone, family friendly and relaxed – it’s all about good feng shui and fun food and just because we couldn’t’ resist a quote from Confucius… “All men eat, but Fu Manchu”. Tel: 0361 4741959 50

Island Pinot Two Islands wine has just introduced its new Pinot Noir which is the first locally produced variety to be made at its Sanur Winery. Winemaker James Kalleske who is at the helm of the 21 -year-old winery is using grapes from the Limestone Coastal region of South Australia. The medium-light bodied dry red wine is soft, silky, fruity and satisfying. It offers complex aromas of toast and raspberry jam, and oregano leaves with flavors of plum, truffles and warming sweet spices. A beautiful blend between old and new world styles, this fresh fruity drop is sure to make experienced Pinot Noir aficionados blush with their very first sip.

GLAMPING ANYONE? Eiger Adventure Store has opened on Sunset Road offering Indonesia’s very own brand of camping equipment and adventure gear. As well as backpacks, water bottles, clothing and acessoires you can pick up pocket knives and other useful camping items for your next Indonesian adventure, or bring the quality items home while paying a fraction of the price you would pay at home for top camping gear. The shop is beautifully designed and a destination shopping experience with rock climbing boards of international standards to test out your gear before you buy. Explore Indonesia’s great outdoors with the best equipment available on the island at reasonable prices that won’t break the bank. Tel: 828 361 8080

IOCO The House of IOCO is a one stop fashion company specialising in red carpet ready evening dresses and wedding dresses as well as day time wear that is made with clean pure cuts, natural fabrics and incomparable attention to detail. The chief designer Monica Ku graduated from Central St. Martins in London, one of the top two fashion schools in the world, and has top European experience. She has now taken over the label that her mother started 20 years ago. The brand prides itself on hand-made finishing and sewing and their artistic creativity. There are five core brands in the HOUSE of IOCO including IOCO, ONLY by IOCO, SOOK, Mistinguett and Monica Ku with all of its’ designs created in-house. Six shops in Bali give you options to shop and haute couture can be ordered that rivals the catwalks of Paris and Milan .

ISOLA WINES We can’t think of a better country or a better pastime than Italy and drinking fine wine. Well now, don’t fret petal because Isola wines has arrived in Bali. The new winery in North Bali Cantine Balita has proudly introduced its first high grade quality wines made under the strictest Italian standards, Isola Rose and Isola Cerasuola, a light red that can also be served chilled. Furthermore Balita strives to implement organic farming with Balinese farming traditions, differentiating itself from other locally produced wines. Top drawer F & B establishments have already signed on for exclusive supplies like the fabulous Nihiwatu in Sumba, Sardine, Metis, Alila Hotels, Mamasan and Sarong, Bow and Locavore. Tel: 0361 467873

LIVING THE HIGH LIFE Villa life in Bali is idyllic and Villa Windu Sari/Asri, designed by one of our favourite architects Glen Parker, doesn’t disappoint. The two pavilions that flank the 14-metre pool are made from timber, polished marble and stone and make for elegant easy living. There is a tricked out private gym that looks over the garden and a comfortable media room. On-hand butlers and a full-time chef are on call and it’s the perfect base to which you can return, rest and relax after exploring the sights, culture and shopping experiences of Bali. Peel me a grape Gilbert, I mean Gede. Tel: 0361 8630323

shanghai dreaming Shanghai Baby, the latest creation from Nic and Valeria Minniti and their worldclass team including starred chef Ken Lee, are bringing modern Cantonese cuisine to Petitenget. The lavish design has been conceived by none other than Grant Cheyne, the man behind the exquisite Salon D’hotes in Paris and Neil Perry’s Rock Pool in Sydney. The vanguard interiors will have a nostalgic “swank and swagger” spirit, making it definitely a place to dress to impress. Pull out the pearls and get ready to play, it’s an anything goes attitude where you can experience all of your senses; food, fashion and frivolity. An open kitchen is on view in the main dining area and a show-stopping circular staircase leads you to the den of iniquity for a late-night soiree on the comfortable leather arm chairs, or go full swing with the playful party crowd at the bar. Tel: 0361 473 0629 LA DOLCE VITA Zibiru Italian restaurant is a charming spot tucked away on Drupadi with a homey atmosphere where tables spill out into the downstairs garden or are under the starlit sky on the charming top deck upstairs. Here you can bask in the glow of the delicious owner and chef, who will recommend the specials of the day and take you on a culinary tour of Italy’s various regions. Since opening three years ago, Zibiru has garnered a strong loyal following with it’s farm-to-table, made-from-scratch authentic regional Italian cuisine. Occasionally there is jazz and soul music but there is always Executive Chef Luigi Calcagno, who has created a homey, convivial feeling through the open air space. You can choose to dine al fresco in the garden, under the stars of the rooftop terrace or in the haven of the non-smoking interior. Breads and pastas are all lovingly homemade and occasionally Chef Luigi’s mother is around, making it feel all the more like being at home. Tel: 0361 733265


JENJA We know you’re used to rocking at Jenja into the wee hours of the night but did you know that they serve food as well as drinks? Well they do and it’s delicious. Hospitality royalty runs this place and the Chef is no exception, having won Top Chef Middle East – Chef Selma is running the kitchens with confidence. Using her Middle Eastern roots, there is a new tapas menu with lovely lamb samosas and moussaka, for those on the Palleo craze you can be satisfied with a Satay Lettuce Wrap – charcoal grilled fish satay with cucumber and sour mango sauce, homemade cashew soy dip and a dash of Japanese mustard … all wrapped in crispy lettuce with no carbs in sight. Down that with Jenja’s just delicious organic infused cocktails and you’re on your way to a perfect work out at the club that opens nightly at 10pm. Tel: 0811 3988088

Deus x Husqvarna 250 Enduro Custom IDR98.000.000





IDR 2.400.000

bronze candle holder

Balinese shadows Spirit - IDR 290.000

IDR 290.000

scented recessed candle Dragon


DRESS - idr450.000,



- idr490.000; BRACELEt: ROUND UP Track star short - idr350.000.

BANGLE SET - idr250.000


PERCEPTIONS, From IDR15.000.000


L-R: louis, Medaillon and Amboise chairs, p.o.a.

left, wave collection. right: lounger L-075.


Hospitality and residential furniture since 1989 INDOOR | OUTDOOR | CUSTOM

WARISAN LIVING | RESTAURANT Jl. Raya Kerobokan 38, Br. Taman, Kuta, Bali Tel: 62 (361) 730 048, Fax: 62 (361) 736 475

WARISAN CASA Jl. Raya By Pass Ngurah Rai Jimbaran, Bali Tel: 62 (361) 701 081, Fax: 62 (361) 701 634 wa r i s a n .co m


Let us reserve a table with an amazing view. Let us invite you to a farm to table culinary experience. Let us present you a culinary journey through the Indonesian Archipelago. Let us introduce you to different flavors of sambals.

Introducing Bejana, Bali’s latest Indonesian restaurant featuring authentic cuisines from Indonesia’s famous regions. Reserve your table for a first hand experience at +62 361 849 8988 or visit

Jalan Nusa Dua Selatan Lot III, Sawangan, Nusa Dua, Bali 80363, Indonesia TEL +62 361 849 8988 FAX +62 361 849 8989


lani ricefied interviews a crop of ascendant Bali babies. production: @bestinbali Photography: @reopfilm Styling: Angie Anggoro Creative Direction: A.K. HALL MUA: @adeaz

Left to right: Indi Setyawan, Annabel North-Lewis, Tristan Iskandar, Eva Taylor, Frances Elliott, Joy van Swieten, Chiara Coserio.


ON a sunny Saturday in the photography studios of Deus in Canggu seven strikingly beautiful teens gathered for a photo shoot. They look like any other bunch of almost-20s; with their torn jeans, midriff tops, and impossibly long manes of hair framing their youthful essence. Even more conspicuous, to me, than their unique beauty, is their very obvious self-awareness, cultural sensitivity, and sense of humility. I had the pleasure of sitting amongst a crowd of young adults to discuss life growing up a prodigy of East-meets-West; children the result of the love affair between Indonesia and the rest of the world. At times tested by high profile political discord or the threat of terror it is a relationship that regenerates to stand the test of time. The western world has been infatuated with Bali and its people since the lure of spice invited European colonisation of Indonesia in the sixteenth century. And East has been acclimatising to the Western influence ever since. An interesting by-product of this cultural evolution seems to be this group of mixed children; half Indonesian, half Caucasian. Self-described as being “too white to be black and too black to be white”, they exist in a grey area demographic, in which the resounding sentiment was that they find it a challenge to seamlessly slip into either parents’ specific race, religion or culture. One with a clear Australian accent, another slightly Dutch – the rest of these teens have adopted a jumbled, almost American-sounding International school enunciation. Between shoots, they sit splayed across couches as any teenagers might – for our biopsy of home life, social life and future plans. The conversation revolved around a common theme: where and with whom do they associate? On this day; as they modelled traditional headpieces as an ode to their Indonesian heritage, sipped on sodas and giggled in between takes, we interviewed them and found a place in which they each surely fit . . . with each other.



Guys, where were you born? Indi: Melbourne, Australia. Annabel: Bali, Indonesia. Tristan: Sydney, Australia. Eva: Vancouver, Canada but came back to Bali when I was five months old. Franny: Sulawesi, Indonesia. Joy: The Netherlands, grew up there ‘til I was 11 years old – then came to Bali. Chiara: Bali, Indonesia. Where are each of your parents from? Indi: My dad is from Bali and mum from Melbourne, Australia. Annabel: Mama is from Jogjakarta/Surabaya and papa from West Sussex in the UK. Tristan: Dad is from Jakarta and mum is from Sydney, Australia. Eva: My mum’s from Canada but she’s lived in Bali forever and my dad’s a Lombok/ Balinese mix. Franny: Mama is from Sorowako and papa is from Vancouver, Canada. Joy: Mom is Surabayan and dad is Dutch – mom lives in the Netherlands and my dad in Bali. Chiara: My mother is from Padang, Indonesian, and my father from Como, Italy. How did your parents meet? Eva: They met in Lombok . . . a long time ago, then my dad came to Bali to look for my mum and he got lost in Ubud . . . maybe it was a sign. Annabel: I think my parents met at the Four Seasons hotel when my mom was working as a waitress and my dad was a guest staying there. Indi: They were neighbours in Bali. Dad was living with his brothers on top of our family restaurant in Sanur and mum had just moved into a little villa next door. They always tell me stories of how they would jump the fence and into each other’s rooms to see one another. Chiara: My mom was a runway model based in Bali back in the early '90s and one night my dad went with his friend to a fashion show where my mom was working. My dad would then go to all her shows and he brought her flowers and that’s how they started their romance. Would you consider yourself predominantly Indonesian, or Western? With which demographic do you most identify? Joy: Even though I’d really like to call myself Indonesian, I feel more Western because of the world I grew up in (the Netherlands). I suppose I still try to fit in here as much as I can. Eva: I’m gado-gado to the core. I think outwardly I’m a lot more Western in my daily life but my home and my spirit is definitely Bali . . . this is where I’m happy. Franny: I identify myself as both. I can never say just one because to Indonesians if I say I’m Indo, they will always reply with, “No! No way! You bulé . . . you blesteran (a mixed child in Indonesian)”. If I ever say I’m Western to Westerners, they say the same thing. Tristan: Both; although I find myself steering towards Indo of late as I haven't gone back to Australia for a while. Indi: Such a hard question. I would always consider myself predominantly Aussie


but since moving back here I love being considered Indonesian. It depends where I am I guess but I've definitely always been proud of having both cultures in my blood. Your core social group – made up of mostly Indonesians, Westerners or mixed? Joy: Many people I work with are Indonesians, most of my close friends are mixed and Westerners. Eva: Most of my close friends and my boyfriend are all mixed like me but I have really good friends who are full Balinese and a few from all over the world. I think growing up in Bali is the real bond . . . not necessarily what our origins are. Indi: Going to an international school I'm really exposed to so many different nationalities . . . Which languages do you speak fluently? Joy: I speak fluent Dutch and English, and some Bahasa. Eva: When I was little I spoke Balinese and Indonesian, but when my mum and dad split up I started speaking this funny mix of Indo/English with my mum and we still do. Annabel: An equal amount of both languages usually in one sentence. I could say things in four different languages . . . Indi: A lot of the time we speak a mix of English and Indonesian in the same sentence but most of the time I speak English with my parents. I speak Indonesian to my maid and driver. If you had children in the future, where would you imagine raising them? Indi: I'd raise them the way I've been raised – probably Australia for their younger school years, and then as they get older, to Indonesia . . . or to wherever dad’s from. Franny: I honestly don’t know. If Bali was still like this in five years’ time I would raise them in Bali. But I'm scared about how Bali will change and so I'm not sure. Do you feel that being of mixed heritage has given you any advantage or disadvantage in growing up? Joy: It helps in the modelling and acting world. Still, most locals look at you as a bulé. Franny: One of the advantages is getting to travel to two different countries and having two lots of cousins from different corners of the world. A disadvantage is having to choose only one passport when I turn 18. Indi: Sometimes I’m treated differently because I’m neither full-blood Australian or Indonesian but it just depends on how you take it. Chiara: I lived in Bali my entire life, except for the three months after I graduated when I went to live in Milan. I went to learn Italian properly but had difficulty fitting in. My friends at school would always call me an “island child” because I didn’t know how to dress properly for winter and adapting to city life was harder than I thought.

ties that bind.


culture vulture

Mihaela Noruc travels with her camera capturing beauty. The result is a universal truth laid bare.


san francisco.




culture vulture

Beauty is simple, It surrounds us all, But many don’t notice, Beauty in the soul . . . - Sabrina Yusof (16 years old, Malaysia) One person who probably does go beyond the skin-deep is Romanian backpacker/ photographer Mihaela Noroc who is on a mission to compile The Atlas of Beauty. To date, Mihaela (according to her social media feeds) has visited more than 60 countries capturing images of women from the streets of New York and Tokyo to the mountains of Tibet. The 29-year-old quit her job and started a new life about two years ago, with her backpack, camera and a plan to travel around the globe on a tight budget. “In this journey I photographed hundreds of women surrounded by their culture,” Mihaela says. “My project is called The Atlas Of Beauty and through it I want to show that beauty is in our differences, not in trends, money or race. “The Atlas of Beauty became viral on the Internet, and suddenly something made with my own small savings became a well known project all over the world. “This made me realise that many people feel represented by this project and it is important to continue it and show more diversity of our planet.” In June Mihaela plans to continue her journey – to add more images to The Atlas of Beauty. “I need at least one more year of travel to gather enough photos and diversity to create the comprehensive book that I dream to publish,” she says.

. . . and she’s seeking crowd funding to keep her on the road. “Through my Indiegogo Crowdfunding Campaign people who contribute can vote for . . . where they would want me to go with The Atlas of Beauty – at the end of the campaign I will make my route based on their choices,” Mihaela says. “I will also choose some places by myself, because some communities of our planet don't have access and money to contribute to my campaign, but they also have to be part of The Atlas. “I took photos (of) women in many different places from all continents, except Atartica. I captured beauty in Brazilian favelas; rough neighbourhoods of Colombia; in an Iranian mosque; on the Tibetan Plateau; and in the biggest Buddhist temple in Myanmar; in the Amazon Rainforest; but also in fancy areas of Oxford; in downtown New York; and in the suburbs of Sydney. “I can say that beauty is everywhere, and it’s not a matter of cosmetics, money, race or social status, but more about being yourself. “I prefer to photograph natural faces, without a lot of make-up, and to capture that moment of sincerity and serenity that is so specific for women.” You can find Mihaela on: Donate to Mihaela's project through Indiegogo.


new york.


culture vulture




dare2wear founder trudi christensen.


Mary Justice Thomasson goes off-piste with Trudi Christensen, founder of the brand Dare2Wear. Image: mark Carolan.

TRUDI, tell us a about your background . . . For me it’s always been about fitness and fashion. I started dancing at the age of two in my home country, Norway, with ballet and jazz and as I got a little older I added modern to the mix, and at about age 10 I started ballroom dancing. I used to enter competitions all the time and afterwards I would hit the ski slopes. After my studies I went to London to pursue professional dancing then I got a degree in personal fitness and I am a certified trainer. Later I got into fashion and worked with different brands. What brought you to Bali? I came here to fulfill my dream. Bali is both spiritual and creative so it’s the perfect environment for my vision. The workers here are artists themselves so it makes creating with them a collaborative effort. I’ve been working on this dream for more than a decade. I saw there was a gap in the market for cool, high quality fitness-wear. I wanted a perfect fit, edgy, trendy and feminine. Also the great yoga here was a draw for me. There are always business challenges on Bali – what’s yours? Communication with employees is sometimes difficult as their understanding is very different to my European culture. But we get there in the end. I am really pleased with my staff who love working at dare2wear as we have great benefits and a lot of fun in the factory. Each piece we make is personally inspected by hand. Do you want to make a difference in Indonesia? My brand works well in Indonesia and I have wholesale agreements in Surabaya and Jakarta. I employ a lot of people. I have a great rapport with my staff and we have a lot of laughs. Who is the typical dare2wear customer? We don’t have a typical customer. In fact, that was one of my inspirations for designing the brand: to make women of all sizes feel good about themselves. We cater for every type of woman and we see all types walk into the shop – from supermodels to teenagers to mature ladies. What was your inspiration? Besides wanting women to feel good about themselves we wanted clothing that could go from the studio to the street. You can do a class in the morning, have lunch with your girlfriends or throw on a jacket and have drinks in the evening. Our clothes are multifunctional and above all colourful, fabulous and fun.

I know you work out all the time – what would be your ideal workout day? Get up in the morning – not always on a Monday – start the day off with Vinyasa flow yoga and then a walk on the beach with my gorgeous dogs and lovely husband. After a light lunch I might take in a class in the afternoon: I like Total Body Fit, TRX, and I love Muai Thai. Basically you don’t want to rob me on the street, you won’t get away with my handbag alive! What charity do you support? We support Solemen. Robert, the founder, is good friend and he works with disadvantaged people in Bali of all ages that wouldn’t have any help at all without him. I can see that my support goes directly to the people that need it. I love this guy. Do you have a life philosophy? Take life as it is . . . staying healthy, being healthy is a priority of mine . . . I’m not a fanatic . . . I like to party but I balance it out after a night on the tiles. I work it off the next week. How would you describe yourself in a word? Grounded. What’s your personality – high strung or laid back? I have a strong personality: determined, stubborn, don't tell me what to do . . . once I’ve made up my mind that's it. If you weren’t working what would you do? Skiing around the world or sailing the seven seas. Being in nature is what I love. You feel free and have an impact with nature. I feel fresh when I’m in the elements. I love sailing in a storm. I’ve never been a beach bum . . . I like to be active. What do you hold close to your heart? My son is the most precious thing in my heart. Your creative muse? I like Dolce and Gabanna, Christian Louboutin shoes, Steve Madden . . . cool, funky brands as well as Stella McCartney. British design has more of an edge and it’s creative. I lived in London, I like everything British, the fashion, their attitude – it’s very raw and open. What makes you forget about the world around you? Yoga and meditation is my escape from the world. What’s on your bucket list? Heli-skiing in Japan in powder snow up to my waist. I haven’t seen the Taj Mahal, yet – I know it sounds clichéd – but I want to go. I also want to see my brand expand globally. I feel like I’m on a mission.


people 74

WHO is Lisa Crosswhite? I am an artist at heart who somehow decided that it was a good idea that I should start a retail business – I love building things and exploring the boundaries in life, conceptualising ideas, and giving myself to the execution process. I like being excited about my work, my friends, my lover . . . If I'm not I sink like a deflated balloon. I'm extremely independent, and a lover of liberty. I like being around people who feel absolutely free to be themselves, and hold themselves to a moral obligation to be true to whatever that is. Are you a lover or a fighter? I am intensely both. I am so emotionally transparent that if you piss me off, or I see an injustice, it’s very difficult to hold back. This aggression is a utility in business, when channelled appropriately, but the channelling process is difficult when your fire is not easily tamed. Similarly, when I love someone I can't be bothered to hold back the ocean. The best feeling in the world is being in love with a beautiful soul, and just being absolutely in awe of them. Tell us how you grew up . . . My first memories were from a tiny little German immigrant town in Manitoba, Canada. I lived there from ages three to eight and helped my dad chop wood; my mom made jam from wild berries around our house. They were both pharmacists who met in college in Winnipeg – Canada's ugliest city. My mom was the only Chinese person in that little town and we were the weird little “halfer” kids. We then moved to one of the most beautiful places in Canada, the Okanagan Valley. This is our Napa Valley – full of rolling hills of vineyards and orchards . . . it was lovely . . . I had a very Christian upbringing. We went to a private school where we weren't allowed to say, “oh my God”. And as it goes for typical Chinese immigrants’ children, we were pushed to be over-achievers in everything . . . from piano, to ballet, to figure skating, to swimming, to karate, to extra-curricular math. When I was 12, my parent's split, and my mom moved us to Vancouver. I was a crazy rebellious teenager. I had given up the church I was raised with, I had no curfew, I was clubbing at 14 and rolling with drug dealers. I was totally mad at the world. I did go to college, however, and began travelling all over Asia for modelling work. I grew up a bit . . . Who were your heroes when you were 10? Probably God. I was raised very Christian, and in a very strict, dogmatic, Baptist, sort of way. We had to rehearse paragraphs of scripture by heart, and mistakes were disciplined. I remember being very close to God as a kid – and when I think back, it was my childlike brainwashed version of connecting with the energy of the universe as a whole. I would pray and cry, and ask God to make the whole world a better place. It was nice to feel something deep. What was the tipple you first got drunk on? I think it was like Bacardi Breezers or something lame like that. I was out drinking with a few kids – we were 13 – and someone's older brother had booted for us. We were at our middle school park at night, like total hooligans, thinking we were so badass. How did you become a model? I was discovered by the same dude who discovered Coco Rocha in Vancouver. We were at the same mother agency. Given that she is much better looking than I am, she became a total supermodel and I didn’t. I was asked if I'd be keen on modelling in Asia where they were apparently into the “half-Asian look”, and I thought, “why not?!” So I began getting overseas contracts from age 19 and throughout college. I spent more time travelling my last few years of college than at home. I stopped modelling when I graduated. Where did your business name, Gnossem, come from? I made it up. It’s based on the Gnossiennes by Erik Satie – a French composer. I wanted something short but weird. Something slightly different, as our brand and product

stands for independent taste . . . it had to be off the beaten track. I found out later that it’s a master number 11 in numerology, which is also one of my key numbers. Something about the name just felt right. Over time, I've thought to change it tons of times as its phonetically difficult for some people (the “g” is silent, as in gnome), but it just stuck. Have you always known you were going to be successful in business? Not at all . . . I never even thought of going into business until I was bored and demotivated at my previous job. I was researching some stuff for an advertising client and thought, “geez, e-commerce has such a scope for further growth, and independent style is not that easy to find online . . . why don't I try to build the solution”. To be honest, I was planning to go into something a lot more nerdy. I had studied political science in college, graduated on the Dean’s List, and was considering doing a Master’s Degree in public policy. My family is full of nerds and artists. A few people, like my mother, also run businesses now but for the most part we are not the most business-minded bunch. Even now, I wouldn't consider Gnossem or myself highly successful. I will, once we have millions of customers worldwide who absolutely love our stuff. We do, however, try very hard. How did you handle the rapid growth in your company? Through repeated fire-fighting. Until recently, it was only me at the helm, and there was a plethora of crises to attend to. While there was groundwork that we were building on, much of the day-to-day operations were about fixing leaky holes as we grew. We didn't have time to just dock the ship, repair and then set off again. The most important thing to handling growth is focus. It’s been key to me to understand what our focus is each week, and make sure this is clearly communicated through the team, so we can efficiently achieve our goals. I've also learned that you can run much faster with the right people. The wrong people just sit on the mountain, adding dead weight. Gnossem’s Instagram tagline is “Style For The Unboring Woman”. Define Unboring . . . Unboring is not boring. Boring is beige opinions, not caring about what you do or how you do it. Boring is dressing and acting like a generic product of your culture. Not caring to find yourself. It’s mundane conversation. It’s living life out of obligation to a set of beliefs that you don't care to challenge. It’s cheap thrills, like Miley Cyrus riding a wrecking ball. It’s the expected. There are large numbers of unboring people out there. I hang with them all the time. I work with them. I am inspired by them. They are the kind of folk who listen to their heart and spirit, and do things in their own way. Are you happy? My emotional default state is happy! I had a few years of being default depressed. Work and social life can keep you busy, but it’s when you’ve disconnected and you’re alone that you can feel what your default is. Being default happy is the product of getting all your ducks in order, personally and professionally, as well as reminding yourself on a daily basis how lucky you are. I love feeling grateful. There is so much to be grateful for.

melissa legger meets lisa crosswhite to talk god, gear and online indi design retailer gnossem . . .

g spot.


people twenty four years at the top . . . gail elliot is still rolling. She talked to the Ă–.


The Little Joe Woman.


GAIL, how are you today? I’m well . . . busy, as usual. I’ve just spent the morning with a blogger from Singapore working on a Little Joe Woman by Gail Elliott collaboration; I have emails to get through; will eat lunch at my desk; have pre-production fittings this afternoon for our next collection and am in the middle of designing Resort 2015. Looking forward to the weekend! Many will know you as one of the biggest supermodels of your era and that you're good friends with Cindy Crawford, Yasmin Le Bon and Helena Christensen. What was that time like for you? I was extremely fortunate to enjoy a successful 24-year career as a model, based in New York in the ‘80s and ‘90s. Our lives were so full, fun and crazy but we worked very hard. It was so normal to us to be walking the runway for Chanel in Paris one day and jumping on the Concorde to be shooting in New York for Vogue the next. We’d hang out with stylists, photographers, actors and rock stars flying around the world to exotic islands to work or to play. I’m still very good friends with Cindy, Yasmin and Helena and they were all my bridesmaids when my husband and business partner, Joe Coffey, and I were married 17 years ago in the Hamptons, New York. The list of photographers you've worked with over the years must be to die for. Who was the best for you? I worked with everyone over the years: Steven Meisel, Irving Penn, Patrick Demarchelier, Arthur Elgort, Helmet Newton, Bill King, Peter Lindberg, Albert Watson, Max Vadukul, Mario Testino, Bruce Weber, Andrew Macpherson, Michel Comte, Paolo Roversi, Eddy Kohli and so many more. They were all amazing to work with in their own way. Irving Penn’s studio was very quiet – no music, no loud laughing and everyone called him Mr Penn. He shot me for American Vogue many times and his images were always stunning. Albert Watson was always fun to work with; him being Scottish and me being British, we had a similar sense of humour. Steven Meisel was shy and his “dream team” of hair and makeup were legends – Oribe Canales and Francois Nars – who would make you look incredible in Steve’s images. I worked with Helmet Newton, just once, for a Valentino campaign at Lake Como, Italy and he would call me “child”. Bruce Weber’s shoots were always fun with lots of people around – boys, kids, animals. Bruce loved to be surrounded by people. I shot a great Versace campaign with him, and Vogue’s inimitable Grace Coddington as stylist. I could go on and on . . . What do you think about the modeling industry these days? Obviously, it’s all very different now. Back then, there were about 25 of us who worked consistently every day for 15 years or more, and people knew who we were. Now there are thousands of models and it’s hard to keep up with them because they change from season to season. Back then at fashion shows, we’d be doing five to seven looks per designer for their runway show, now models are booked to walk in one look only. I imagine it would be a very difficult industry for a model to be in these days because of the huge amount of competition. How long have you been living in Bali? How do you compare this chapter of your life to say New York, The Hamptons, England or Sydney? We’ve been in Bali for almost seven months and it’s been a delight. Every chapter of my life – from living in the middle of New York City, then the Hamptons, London for stints and more recently, Sydney – has been very different. Each of those places has been an enriching experience. This new chapter is just as exciting. And now you're a designer and businesswoman who runs stores in

Australia, Bali, online and wholesales to the likes of Myer department store. How was the transition from model to maven? It was actually a lot more challenging and more involved than people think. It’s easy to just turn it into a sound-bite and say “model turned designer”, as if one minute I was striding down a runway and the next minute we had a fully fledged fashion business with multiple boutiques, but the reality of it couldn’t have been more further from that. Tell us about your label Little Joe Woman. How did the name come about? During my career as a model and working with all the most talented designers, stylists, photographers, magazine editors and models, I began to feel a need to express my understandings and fashion thoughts and feelings creatively. My first designs were simple slip dresses and camisoles. Pieces I needed for myself and couldn’t seem to find in stores at the time, and that worked with my hectic travel schedule. They were easy to pack and great to wear. The brand was started by myself and husband Joe when we were living in The Hamptons. It started as a fun project which we saw as “our baby” so named it Little Joe. How do you feel about the changing face of fashion with online sales compared to how it uses to be back in the day? The fashion landscape has totally changed in every sense – from the modeling world to the way brands are marketed and how customers find and buy what they’re looking for. For a fashion business, the traditional paradigm of having stand-alone boutiques can be quite a luxury in some ways, because so many people now prefer to buy their entire wardrobes without leaving the house. Brands are now global in every way, no matter where you’re based, and that’s both an opportunity and a challenge when you have your own label. How did you meet your husband? We met on New Year’s Eve, at four o’clock in the morning at Kinsella’s – a nightclub he used to own in Sydney. Helena Christensen was dating (INXS lead singer) Michael Hutchence and we had come to spend Christmas on the Gold Coast with Michael’s family. For New Year we drove to Sydney stopping in Byron Bay on the way and ended up at Kinsella’s. Michael knew Joe and introduced us. What does a typical day for Gail and Joe entail? When we’re in Bali a typical day for us starts with Joe waking at 6am. If he surfs I’ll either sleep a little longer or take a beach walk. We have a semi-private Pilates class at 7.30am twice a week. We also have a private Bahasa Indonesia class at 8am twice a week at our villa. I make breakfast at the villa or we’ll eat out, then we head to our office for the day where we have a mixture of phone calls, fittings, design meetings, accountant/ business meetings, staff updates and answer emails. Lunch is either at our desk or at a restaurant and we head home around 6pm for me to cook dinner, which I love to do. If I wasn't in fashion I would be . . . I think I would have taken up fashion portrait photography. I also love interior design so I could have gone in that direction too. What makes you smile? Seeing Joe walking towards me and locking eyes with each other across a crowded place, like at the airport. What advice would you give your young self? I wouldn’t change anything so far, so my advice would be to simply enjoy your life, work hard and be thoughtful and respectful of others.



styling: a.k. Hall. Wardrobe: ali charisma. Jewllery: jemme. hair & makeup: kat o'hara. shot on location at W retreat & spa bali.


polymath Luna Maya bounces from one project to another – she bounces in to rap at The Yak. photos: Stephane Sensey. LUNA, we checked you out on Instagram . . . three million followers and counting . . . so we want to ask: how in the hell did you become so famous? Well I’ve been in the film and fashion industry since 1999. All I did was to work and deliver my best. I don’t share much of my private life in the media, maybe the followers are curious so they follow? I don’t know. If we were to ask someone who knew nothing about your acting career to watch one of your films . . . which one would you recommend? Ruang: mostly because it is my mother’s favorite choice. What's your connection to Bali? I was born and raised there, my home, mostly because my family still lives there as well as my best friends. Okay, tell us about how you got started on the fashion merry-goround? Basically I got a proposal to this business and it seemed feasible so I decided to join in. What’s your clothing line all about? At the end of 2014 I decided to make my own business. I love fashion, and have been surrounded by it. I decided to name the brand Luna Habit since all of the ready-to-wear items are designed according to my tone and taste. Of course I need to follow the trends as well. Our prices are competitive and we very much focus on quality. We hear you’re also doing something with the Disney studios . . . Disney was looking to localise their movie Avengers: The Age of Ultron in

Indonesia – apparently it was the only market they were going to use a localised marketing approach. Since Avengers, as everybody knows, does not need marketing for the male characters, they decided to highlight Black Widow to attract more female audiences. That’s where I come in as their ambassador a Black Widow. I didn’t even dream of becoming a Disney ambassador at once but, hey . . . sometimes reality is better than dreams. We produced four short video trailers and shareable images. Those were distributed only via online platforms. Do you need superpowers for that? Yes, believing in yourself. That’s the ultimate superpower . . . Tell us about your mum and dad. My father was a painter, a gifted painter who could not finish some of his works because he had to leave us. He was ill and passed away when I was 12. My mother has a strong passion for garments and batiks. She still produces them until this day. Both lovely people. What keeps you busy now, and what are you planning for the future? I spend most of my time working for Luna Habit and some other activities like TV shows and photo shoots. Describe yourself in three words... Active, simple and sensitive. If there was only one thing left that you were able to do, what would that be? Travelling around the world . . .





HELEN, describe your heritage and how the Milnes ended up in Africa. My English grandmother’s family were some of the first white settlers in Zimbabwe in the late 1890s. She left Africa as a young woman, was married in the UK and with her new family returned to Zimbabwe years later – after WWII. My father, aged six, in tow. He never left what he considered his true home. My mother’s family is of Greek descent but my mother was born in Egypt and moved to Zimbabwe when she was around 10. She's never left her true home either. What life lesson has growing up in Africa taught you? I think the greatest gift I have been given this lifetime was growing up in Africa. It showed me first the wonders of nature and that there is definitely a wildness that pulsates through all Africans' veins. It made me very resilient. Zimbabweans always “make a plan”. We always had shortages of what you would consider to be basic commodities. You could not get petrol for quite a few months; there was no rain in my home town for three years . . . It always worked out though. Zimbabwe has had huge political turmoil and from having lived through that I realised at a very young age nothing is constant. You really have to simply enjoy the present moment. What makes an African childhood so different? I was one of the only white girls in my school. There weren’t enough classrooms so many times lessons were held under a tree. We lived in the city but my parents would spend every non-working minute in the bush. Our entertainment was nature. Life was one endless safari. Instead of the theatre we had game-watching in the evenings. The sun would start to set and it was like the red velvet curtains opening at the theatre. All the animals would come down to drink and without fail the show would commence. Growing up in Africa, I think, things were a lot more simple and basic and we had a lot more freedom to just be children. Where's your place in Africa that depicts the poetry of the land? I love Mosi-oa-Tunyaor – Victoria Falls. It is my favourite place on the planet. Its name means “the smoke that Thunders”. What are you doing right now? I am travelling through Europe for a couple of weeks, catching up with stockists, but most importantly with friends. Miss Milne opened in Jakarta in November so it is time to take a breath and get inspired by a road journey. I am putting together ideas for the Summer 2016 Miss Milne collection, also working on project plans and range ideas for our Bali shop which is getting a little update in July. Every so often I need to remove myself and find some answers in the adventures.

Who do you miss? My Father. He passed away five years ago . . . I miss him dearly. What designer would you take to dinner and what would you ask them? There is a long list of designers I admire and would love to meet. I once met Elber Albazand and asked him if he still gets nervous putting out a new collection after having so many under his belt. He answered: “My dear, it is because I have put so many out that I get nervous. In life now you can buy everything but there are only two things you cannot buy, you have to develop them – one is muscles and the other is talent. They have to be worked on continuously.” I loved that. Another is Dries van Noten. I went to an exhibition of his at le Musée Art Décoratif de Paris last May and his work always blows my mind. Van Noten has been entirely self-financed since the beginning of his career, which is always my biggest challenge. I'd certainly appreciate some tips on overcoming the financial hurdles that all independent startups incur. What would make you throw your lover out? My lover is a real gent; he would have to do something very out of his character to warrant that kind of action. What defines love? I think love is a passion in your life. Real love truthfully sees the flaws – and still really loves fully. Love is constantly changing and we have to continue to fall back into love, we should climb into love not fall into love! What song do you play first thing Sunday morning. At the moment I'm listening to an album called Trouble Will Find Me by The National. Love the name! On Sunday mornings I might play something like Francois Hardy, or the Apparat album Krieg und Frieden – perfect for Sunday morning. Yann Tiersen; Chilly Gonzales; Vivaldi . . . for a more rock and roll Sunday, All Along the Watch Tower by Jimi Hendrix. Where will your ashes rest? Long story short, I think my heart will always belong in Zimbabwe alongside my family, but I would not mind being in the ocean either. The sea has always felt like home to me. Never forget what? A bank card (preferably overflowing with funds . . . then a bottle of Tam Dao, the perfume I have worn every day for the past 12 years . . . and a smile. A smile gets you through all sorts of things.



yak fashion


Bustier, Agent Provocateur. tibetan hat, esoteric world.



yak fashion





yak fashion



yak fashion








omnibus Andrew E. Hall enters the creepy world of energy vampires...

will he come out a changed man?

I'm not afraid of werewolves or

vampires or haunted hotels, I'm

afraid of what real human beings

do to other real human beings. - Walter Jon Williams


When you came in the air went out.

inconsiderate way) my sadness should be their sadness too. After all, what are “friends” for? I was convinced of my own moral rectitude. I selfmedicated in lavish fashion – not with illegal substances it must be said. I became a right royal pain in the arse. I lived in an unfathomable void and contemplated seriously the relief that death might bring. But someone I (still) refer to as my brother had already taken that “refuge” a decadeand-a-half or so earlier, and I pride myself in originality.

And every shadow filled up with doubt.

Suck, suck, suck.

- Jace Everett: I Want To Do Bad Things With You.

The stake to the heart came in the form of silence.

While all manner of dark creatures have stalked our TV screens in increasing numbers in recent years – my all-time favourites being those in the True Blood series (and not just because Anna Paquin gets her gear off quite a lot) – there has also been an uptick in popular media concerning research into creatures who suck things other than blood.

No invitations; people wearing garlic and waving crucifixes whenever I was around in the public space (not really but it was kind of like that).

AS the grainy shadow of Nosferatu – the original filmic vampire – crests the stairs, you just know something unpleasant is going to happen . . . And when an energy vampire makes an entrance into a room, which up to that point contained a perfectly pleasant ambience, a similar swingeing chill descends.

Why is it so? With the joy that accompanies curiosity I threw myself into looking for leads and was fascinated to find a considerable trove of information about energy and/or emotional vampirism. I understand that there are those who steadfastly believe that vampires of the fanged variety actually exist. I’m not one of them. Indeed I know several people who really believe they are space aliens – they’re quite fun to have a few drinks with.

In my own twisted and resentful mind (such as it was at the time) I wondered what was wrong with “them”. Suck, suck, suck. Or in the words of the late, great Warren Zevon: “. . . poor, poor, pitiful me”. But, staying with themes espoused by excellent musicians, I conjured the words of wonderful Joni Mitchell: “. . . I don’t need a therapist, I’m a songwriter”. Accepting the silence and solitude I spent five months writing a book (that no one has read . . . yet).

Energy vampires, on the other hand, are not at all fun to be with while dabbling in your favourite libation . . . for every sip you take, they take one too.

During that time a particularly resilient friend put his foot firmly on my chest and started to withdraw the wooden stake. You know who you are mate. Thank you.

Workplace performance expert, Andrew May, says: “They tend to be an unhappy lot, and do their damage through a telepathic draining of their victim’s energy.

A number of my erstwhile relationships suffered what Vampire Bill Compton might refer to as “the true death”. Such is life.

Although often well-meaning, energy vampires have a vicarious need to put other people down and to point out faults in those around them, which serves to fuel their insecurities and inflate their own mercurial tyres.” In contemplating writing this I promised myself one thing: to “out” myself . . . no I’m not gay, sorry. I grew my metaphorical fangs quite a few years ago. I won’t bore you with the details of why, but in the words of Frank Zappa’s Central Scrutiniser: “ . . . the boy was a wreck”. I foisted myself upon various friends thinking (in an unconscious and

I’m baaack . . . ta-da! Have been for a pleasantly lengthy period. But as I remarked to another friend recently: “I know the “black dog” and, more importantly, the black dog knows me”. When I look in the mirror though (which, with a countenance like mine, is best kept to a minimum) there is a reflection. No discernable fangs. Andrew May goes on to say: “In making the break from an energy vampire, you can sometimes miss their financial or strategic support in a business context, or the security and comfort in a personal one. But once you remove people who drain you physically, emotionally, spiritually,



psychologically and/or financially, it can feel like a heavy weight has been removed from around your neck. Taking into consideration recent psychological research highlighting how we start behaving like the collective sum of the five people we spend most of our time with (scary when you think about this, huh?), let's have a look and see if you are hanging out with people who drain your energy stocks.

“See . . . negative energy.” “Only since you turned up.” “I can help you.” “You’re doing my head in.”

• Do they constantly tell other people what's wrong with their lives?

The vampire in her yoga kit is persistent. The practiced placidity is a form of oblivion I don’t wish to explore. I long to return to Discworld, which, though completely chaotic, is somehow comforting.

• Do they constantly criticise and look for arguments?

Ubud can be a strange place to live sometimes.

• Do they always blame other people and never take responsibility?

It resembles Sir Terry’s Discworld in many respects . . . but the People of Hanoman and their ilk on other parts of the island actually take themselves seriously.

Quiz: Are you spending too much time with an energy vampire?

• Do they complain and talk about other people behind their backs? • Are they never happy, even when they get exactly what they want from colleagues, family and friends?”


Spooky. Cue I Want To Do Bad Things With You.

Not talking behind your backs people . . . obviously.

“I’m a healer . . .” How many times have you heard that one on Bali? “What, like a blue heeler? A red-cloud kelpie?” “No, a healer – like one who heals.” “Not like the dogs then?” “No.” “Oh.” I immediately feel like the Energiser Bunny who has suddenly run into a treacle spillage. I instinctively reach for a cigarette and my eyes dart wildly in search of strong drink. My day has taken a turn for the worse. I wish I had a USB socket so I could plug myself into the mains. My life force is slipping away in the direction of a tight t-shirt upon which is printed an Om sign. Help! “I can help you . . .” “We’ve never met.” “I feel your energy – it’s not good.” “I’m reading Terry Pratchett and laughing, what’s wrong with that?” “Who’s Terry Pratchett?”


“Doesn’t matter – he’s very funny. Now go away.”

Current and former energy vampires can be extremely cunning. In an article titled, How To Save Yourself From Emotional Vampires (Because They’re Ruining Your Life), Rebecca Santiago refers to lead researcher in the field, Dr. Judith Orloff, author of the 2010 bestseller Emotional Freedom: “ ‘You’ll know you’ve encountered (an energy vampire) if you’re immediately tired after talking to them, like you need a nap, or if you’re feeling anxious, worse off than you were before,’ she says. ‘Your eyelids will feel heavy, you’ll feel drained, and any negative physical symptoms you have will be exacerbated.’ Orloff’s book describes different types of emotional vampires, including critical know-it-alls, self-perpetuating victims, overbearing controllers, drama manufacturers, and narcissists.” Lawrence Wilson MD says in an article titled Energetic Vampirism: “The main way to extract energy from another person is to upset the person. Two ways to do this are by: 1) Intimidation, threats or actual violence of some kind. 2) Seduction, pleasuring, flattery or spoiling another. These may be called the yang and the yin methods. In both cases, a person is thrown out of balance, and this is what causes the person to give up some life energy. Many energy vampires combine the two in interesting ways . . .” Okay, I think we’ve got it now. Watch out! However! In pondering this piece my mind was pulled in a direction




that transcends the individual (or limited group) experience. The reason for this was I recently listened to a radio programme that suggested the conversation about global environmental change has largely dropped off the wider public radar. Why? Because the conversation is, for the most part, conducted in terms of fear and negativity (typical energy vampirism, as we have seen). And while the consequences of global warming are probably not heart-warming – an absence of polar bears in the not-too-distant future, for instance – some boffins would prefer the debate be repackaged in terms of a positive fascination with environmental science. I’m walking on melting ice here because I couldn’t find much of use that links energy vampirism with the global environment.

Labor. And vice-versa when their respective positions are reversed – but the political Left is more amenable to listening to a wider range of voices about alternative energy generation. Most European countries, the US and even Tory-led UK, have set Renewable Energy Targets ahead of a global conference on the environment in Paris later this year. Australia and Canada – whose leaders are cut from the same vampiric cloth – have, thus far, declined to do so. There is a general accord (amongst themselves) that these people are never responsible when the shit hits the fan. • Do they complain and talk about other people behind their backs? Duh. What do you think the political “leak” (as opposed to the political leek – a revered vegetable) is designed to achieve?

So I’m just going to make it up . . .

• Are they ever happy, even when they get exactly what they want from colleagues, family and friends?

Global energy vampires can be identified by their penchant for conservative clothing and their occupation of the conservative benches in the democratic world’s parliaments. In short, the legislators who pooh-pooh the science of climate change. America’s Republicans come to mind, as do prominent members of the Australian federal government – including the prime minister, Tony Abbott, who once said (and I paraphrase here), “global warming as a result of human activity is crap”.

No, they’re not – because they’re completely paranoid . . . especially about their colleagues. Who knows when one of them wants your job? Friends’ and family energy systems are sacrificed to the career choices of the politician whose rhetoric about the “burden” of ruling a nation might be compelling . . . but is more probably about the blowjobs. Sorry Monica. Once they get something they want, they always want more. And they never want to share the toys in their toy box.

So let’s apply Andrew May’s quiz to these legends-in-their-ownlunchboxes:

Told you I was making it up but . . . THEY SUCK.

• Do they constantly tell other people what's wrong with their lives? Yes. They are rather phobic about the economic underclasses (who have an annoying tendency not to wear neckties). They regularly reproach people’s poverty and rebrand them as welfare “bludgers”. And, given the nature of media controlled by the likes of Rupert The Compassionate, poor prols take it upon themselves to feel shame and opprobrium – giving up the energy that is born of self-respect in the venal realisation that they are a “burden” on society. • Do they constantly criticise and look for arguments? Yes. Because their “bottom line” is based on the fact that the fossil-fuel industrial complex has captured them, bribed them, promised them blowjobs in this life and beyond . . . and has ploughed big bucks into denouncing the economics of renewable energy. They’re not so much looking for arguments (certainly not a balanced or strictly scientific conversation) but maintain that THEIR argument is the only one worth listening to. As such, budgets for research into alternative energy generation methods are eroded in the name of “fiscal responsibility” and “budget balancing”. It’s really about the blowjobs. • Do they always blame other people and never take responsibility? Of course they do: the American Republicans blame the Democrats; the British Conservatives blame Labour; the Australian Liberals blame

A popular consensus amongst those who research energy/emotional vampirism is that the best strategy in responding to contact with one of these suckers is to consciously remain calm and breathe in a deep, slow and rhythmic fashion. Not so easy if you live next door to a coal-fired power station – but everyone has to die of something. Another tactic is to be very self-assured and aware about where your personal boundaries are set and stick to them. “Excommunication” is a term that pops up quite a lot in the literature – casting the research in a quasi-religious light and reinforcing popular myths surrounding vampires’ objection to religious artifacts. It basically means it’s okay to tell someone to piss off. Lawrence Wilson offers some sage advice: “Get to know people well, test them over time, and never trust first impressions. This is critical to avoid being sucked into a vampire situation. Women are more likely to be prey, although men can certainly become vampire victims as well.” They certainly can Lozza; my former partner was a vampire queen – and I was a fang banger! Her presence was so chilling I often thought about selling the fridge. Having conjured her image, I need to spend considerable time on my breathing exercises. There is general agreement amongst researchers that stabbing someone in the heart with a stick is not a good idea . . .



I hear it’s not about the direction; I hear it’s

about the journey. So maybe it’s time to jump on

board the Eastern & Oriental Express and fall back into the 1920s, in an elegant, Venice Simpleton

kind of way. The route? Singapore to Bangkok. Why not?

Life IS a journey so let’s enjoy the ride.

“To travel by train is to see Nature, and human

beings and towns … and rivers, in fact to see life,” commented Agatha Christie.

Taking these words to heart, and realizing

all aboard ... s.D. luxes out on E & 0.

that a trip aboard the E & O is possibly on most people’s bucket list, I packed ‘appropriately’

so as not look amiss in any Great Gatsby film or

similar, (the dress code is elegant frocks, bling, dinner jackets and black tie).

Words that conjure up, titillates and make

this railway Gatsby mood compelling? Porters, Bar

Car, Saloon Car, Dining cars, Observation Car;

Motorcoaches; Sightseeing excursions, and taking it

to the next level, the word – Cabin Steward.

Stating the experience as a ‘Journey like no

other’, the Belmond Group’s luxury train departs the Singapore/Malaysian border with destination Kuala Lumpur. Passing kampongs (hamlets), rice

paddy fields and plantations, time to dress for dinner.

I meet Prana, one of the Cabin Stewards (and in

charge of Carriage 22 for all his sins) who kindly


on track.


travel the height of luxury and culture


reinforces, in a most genteel manner, the elegance of this unique two-night, three-day journey. Unpacking, advising and assisting, Prana guides each of ‘his’

carriage 22 guests to which dining cart ‘one’ would eat in, and with whom ‘one’ would sit.

But first to meet the other guests, as the Bar

Service starts at 7pm in the Observation Car and

in the Saloon Car before answering the call to

dinner. The food is as elegant and as five-star as

the train. Table d’hote and silver service all the way. Luxurious to the enth degree, three splendid

restaurant cars carry the names of Adisorn, Rosaline

and Malaya. Here, waited upon by white-gloved waiters, gourmet food is served on elegant chinaware warmed

to perfection, paired with distinctive silver ware. Glasses are lead crystal – no expense is spared to

really make this that ‘journey like no other’. After dinner the choice is to head to the Saloon Bar and listen to the piano man and join in the revelry or

make your way to the Observation Car should you wish to smoke, alternatively call it a day and your cabin.

retire to

The train’s stainless-steel-bodied carriages,

originally built in Japan in 1971, boast three

categories of cabin, Pullman, State and Presidential ranging form 5sqm to 11.6sqm; most with twin

accommodation, fully air-conditioned with toilet, hair dryer and personal safe. The Presidential Cabin also

boasts complimentary mini bar, CD player with adapter for your personal iPod/MP3. NB: plugs are the threepin UK style standard of 220 volts. Of note, your

mobile will only occasionally be of use; throughout

the journey the signal is not remotely strong – which is bliss, and such a treat these days!

Travelling north, passing lakes, forests and

villages, the E & O Express arrives at Kuala Kangsar,

the seat of the Sultan of Perak, nearing the northern border with Thailand. An early morning, brief yet

educational, two-hour stop-over encompasses visiting three kinds of traditional houses, part-Malay, part-


Return to the train for lunch and an afternoon

siesta as the carriages pull out of Kangsar with destination Padang Besar and the Thai border. A

quick locomotive change, customs formalities and

a time update (there is an hour’s time difference between Bangkok and Malaysia) and the new engine

throatily chuffs towards the next destination on this privileged experiential journey. On board I head to

the Reading Room for an hour’s foot reflexology, where I sit comfortably surrounded by elm, and cherry wood paneled walls, transported into another time zone

way, way back when; this is a totally revitalising experience.

As the locomotive clickety-clacks it’s way north,

once again we wine and we dine in elegance; the Piano man plays his tunes. All is privilege.

Breakfast is a cabin affair and is prepared by the

wonderful steward. While silver salver in style, it

is Continental in ingredients, and Prana has a whole carriage to do!

We next alight to visit the River Kwai and the

Death Museum – a river ride and a short coach ride

make this a very laid back affair, easy for any age

group. The history however is mind-blowing and very

eye opening. A sense of awe hangs in the air as we climb aboard once more for our final destination,

Bangkok. In a mere four hours our journey will be over and exist only as a suspended memory of a journey like no other.

Eastern & Oriental Express - the world’s most

exotic Rail adventure, thankfully I seem to have managed to tick that box.

colonial in design and beautifully architected

from bamboo; the golden-roofed Ubudiah mosque and the Sultan’s very own Gallery/museum; a couple of spectacular watch and china collections are seen



tom hickman boards haruku by pulau dive for a day aboard the beast.

THERE’S no shortage of incredible activities on this, one of the world’s most wonderful islands. But a day with Pulau Luxury Charters brings almost all of these activities together to be savored on your own miniature private paradise. What’s more, the day is bespoke – you can choose the destination, the food, entertainment . . . in fact pretty much anything you want. The Yak decided to check it out. Haruku is a high-powered catamaran built for speed and designed for comfort. Arriving at the port area on Serangan – a central but sleepy spit of land just 15 minutes west of Kuta at around 9:45am – we grabbed a quick coffee and were soon greeted by the team, escorted on to a nifty speedboat and ferried to the Haruku – our 75-foot home for the day. We were welcomed with smiles, garlands, and ice-cold glasses of Veuve Clicquot (the first of many for some of us), oh yeah . . . and delicious snacks. There’s an ample deck on the top for sun worshippers, a comfortable area at the helm, two bathrooms, a TV lounge with sofas (in case it rains) and more comfortable seating on the aft deck at the back. We decided to head to Nusa Lembongan – a stunning island about 60 minutes from Bali. Our plan was simple: swim, snorkel, paddle-board in one of the stunning coves; enjoy a delicious lunch on board, and then cruise back to the mainland for a Friday night after-party back at the marina. The captain was on a mission to impress. He fired up the engine and in no time we were powering across to Lembongan . . . time for another glass of champagne and the perfect opportunity to admire Bali’s mountainous landscape – the active volcano, Mount Agung and, on a clear day, Lombok visible on the horizon. 102

The crew anchored the boat about 50 metres off-shore, made sure everyone was happy, topped up our drinks, and got busy serving up a five-star lunch. We’d chosen a menu that included an impeccable feast of marinated chicken, cold rare beef, and a range of salads, backed up with chocolate mousse. The service was fantastic and an inexhaustible supply of ice-cold beers, wine, soft drinks and water comes as standard. Take your pick of where to eat; enjoy the sound system and pat yourself on the back for all those hard days you’ve spent in the office. With sunset a couple of hours away the captain started the journey back. Our after-party kicked off with a saxophonist playing on the jetty and was set up so we could enjoy a tour of another one of Pulau’s yachts. Time flew as we celebrated another stunning day. A day that combined just about everything Bali is famous for – stunning views, great music, delicious food, and a tropical sunset. Haruku – one of seven in the fleet – comfortably accommodates groups of up to 25 and comes fully equipped with snorkeling equipment and stand-up paddle boards for those who’ve gone easy on the Champagne. A floating platform is available for anyone wanting to relax closer to the water. The fleet ranges from a twin-mast schooner to a genuine 100-foot super yacht and smaller vessels to cater for divers, deep sea fishing tips, and surfers seeking an unpopulated break. Chartering one of the Pulau fleet starts at just US$75 a day per person and rises to US$11,500 for a day on the Azimut super yacht . . . that’s just over US$450 a head for a generous slice of the high life. Worth every cent.

venting in a villa

Ondy Sweeting blisses out at Balquisse . . .

FOLLOW the signs for Balquisse Heritage Hotel through the dusty car park and be prepared to have your inner design fiend fly to the heavens that mesh Morocco and the Island of the Gods. Just a few moments walk away from the beautiful serenity of Jimbaran Bay and set on a large swathe of tropical gardens and elegant lawns, this is a unique place to run away from the big smoke of Seminyak for a weekend of clean sea and fresh air. When it comes to beauty, Balquisse is the real deal. Guests are free to choose which room they want to stay in and that might be a little trickier than thought possible with each room as one of a kind. Antique furniture from throughout the Indonesian archipelago is coupled with many lengths of silk organza from Rajasthan covering windows and offering privacy, while ubiquitous Moroccan lights with panels of glass and beaten copper create a seductive mood. Each room is dark with muted colours on the walls that reach to vaulted timber ceilings. Sleeping platforms are raised and painted while the floors are tiled. The cool charm of the Medina transposed to a tropical den. Belgian-born owner and interior decorator Zohra Boukhari – whose DNA is Moroccan – has implemented her signature style in every nook and cranny. This could be the freestanding copper bathtub, canopied fourposter beds with a strong French influence or delightful antique clocks from the 1950s. The antique theme is held in place with every Western comfort from ceiling fans and air-conditioning to endless steaming hot water, satellite TV and wifi. The 1890-style artesian telephones work. Balquisse Heritage Hotel is a place that you may not want to leave in a hurry. Snoop around to enjoy the other rooms that are not occupied and revel in the reflected glory of exquisite taste. Tiny details such as single marigold blooms dangling across the bedroom doorway suspended from delicate bamboo ribbon are a special design element that makes the hotel so unforgettable. The original building was constructed in the 1960s and has been renovated, restored and added to. Tile roofs sit besides traditional alangalang roofing and the result is a flow that feels like your room has its own beautifully tiled pool. Two pools – separated by a stone fence and jungle hedge – ensure that every room is near a refreshing swim. Hang around


the pool for long enough in the morning and staff will arrive offering lime infused cold water, while in the afternoon the complimentary offering is mint tea and cake. It is too gorgeous to pass up. Within the grounds of Balquisse is a traditional Balinese long house that is used as a central communal sitting room and is decked with huge cosy day beds, large comfortable antique club chairs and classic dining tables and chairs, perfect for a late night whiskey and a game of cards. The restaurant, Asam Garam, is also an open space that offers delightful Indonesian dishes from a simple chicken soup through to a complex rijsttafel of a dozen or more dishes from Bali and further afield. Breakfast here is an impressive feast of good health that includes fresh fruit, yoghurt, crepes, eggs, croissants and breads. The preserves are made from scratch in the hotel kitchen. The papaya jam is fragrant with oriental spices including cinnamon and clove. Balquisse Heritage Hotel has the alluring Henna Spa tucked away at the back of the grounds where six suites remain true to the entrancing Moorish deign. Therapies include authentic local massages and royal treatments from the old Javanese court including the languid lulur that includes a body scrub, massage, flower bath and yoghurt rub. Beside this delightful boutique hotel is Villa Shaba, which is the crowning glory of the Balquisse accommodations. Exquisitely laid out like a Marrakech riad with a central courtyard with bubbling water features, flanked by sumptuous sleeping areas with private living rooms and superb finishes that are reminiscent of paintings by French Orientalist Jéan-Léon Gerôme. A long lap pool with decks is off the gourmet kitchen and there is a drawing room, library and the most extraordinary bathrooms you are ever likely to experience. The only missing element at the boutique hotel and Villa Shaba is the steamy tiles of a traditional hammam and attendant workers who lull guests into blissful repose with quiet and ethereal Arabic songs while gently washing your hair.

Meshing bali with morocco.


oral pleasures Clockwise from top left: the edge; el kabron; the rock bar at ayana resort & spa; karma kandara; tirtha dining.


A heavenly alliance between nature, clever engineering and brilliant cuisiniers has converged to create some of the world’s most coveted clifftop restaurants. By Ondy Sweeting.

El Kabron Be among the first to grace El Kabron’s enchanting new destination for love at The Balkony – a sublime dining addition to this beautiful restaurant that seamlessly transports guests to stunning Ibiza in the Spanish Balearic Islands. Hugging the limestone cliff’s edge, The Balkony is an intimate extension to the swank cliff club and El Kabron’s special gift for those in the mood for romance and to mark the popular resto’s anniversary. The Balkony has walls of glass that dish up the wild feeling of flying over the cliff while waves crash onto the rocks 25 metres below. Groups have not been cast aside with The Balkony purposely designed to have two defined zone–one for transcendent intimacy and the other to party. Check in on the Sangria at sunset and the new live paella cooking experience. This Spanish restaurant and cliff club is in the Bukit’s secluded Pecatu area and looms high above the Indian Ocean with point blank 180-degree views of the glittering sea, gorgeous coast and legendary sunset. An incredible optical illusion makes the infinity pool appear to converge with the azure blue of the deep. Jump in, swim to the cliff side and maze your mind. El Kabron has a kicking range of bespoke cocktails; a variety of to-die-for paellas and tapas will ensure that a sunset experience at this unique cliff club will sizzle into the long-term memory. Hospitality runs deep and includes more than sumptuous Spanish dishes from the mountains and the coast and several dining areas satisfy different needs with poolside grazing or gastronomic dining inside. It is perfectly possible to freshen up between courses since El Kabron provides guests with endless fluffy towels and showers. After a long languid lunch, snooze, swim and sundown cocktails, why not stay for dinner? Karma Kandara WHEN it comes to wow-factor magnified, do not go past Karma Kandara’s superb restaurant di Mare. Dramatically suspended 85 metres over a sandy crescent of beach perched on a rocky outcrop, di Mare is as outlandishly located as the dining is an extraordinary experience. From the sci-fi pre-tensile fabric that covers the restaurant while creating a yachty vibe through to the beautiful pool that shimmers to de je vu and the Mykonos years, there is nothing not to love. Di Mare has a range of purposes for the crazed gourmet traveller including a sublime Sunday brunch that blasts off at 11 and includes briny sushi, charcuterie, artisan cheeses and bread plus hand crafted desserts and super succulent seafood. Sunset cocktails set the stage for a romantic interlude where foods of passion will be plated and presented under the stars. Ocean-inspired dining with sweet prawns and sharp oysters or juicy imported beef that will sing when washed down with one of about 3,000 wines that fill the cellar. Tirtha Dining IN the name of love kill me now and burn my clothes if there is a more romantic restaurant in the world. Even the name is mystical and translates from Balinese to mean “Holy Water” – a profoundly spiritual serum. It is also set high on the cliffs close to the sacred Uluwatu Temple. Lay claim to a private curtained pavilion that seems to hover at the cliff’s edge while being surrounded by gardens and infinity pool and dreamy urns that are set aflame. Cocktails are prepared in a floating bar that pays homage to Japan –

the homeland of executive chef Hiroyuki Meno. Graze on poached lobster with San Daniele ham and watermelon gazpacho followed by roasted lamb loin accompanied by sweet potato fondant with milk sorbet, Sumbawa honey and Cacao sauce. Tirta Dining has long been a spectacular and extravagant wedding destination, and it remains so today. However, make the call and secure front-row seat for an evening and taste the legend. To by pass the intense romance, request a table in the Zen-like restaurant that has stunning ceiling-to-floor windows that are swathed in elegant silks, just enough so as not to hinder the view of sunset that colours both the sky and sea burnt orange. The Edge WHY not spend a few nights living on the clifftop and indulge in sensational food and life literally . . . on the edge. The Edge is a luxurious compound of holiday villas where each villa, and every one of the 10 bedrooms, has close-up views of the Indian Ocean. Put this together with a private butler service, an exclusive plunge pool and cutting edge integrated entertainment system and you have holiday bliss. Dining here is a truly unique experience since The Edge does not have a menu and it prides itself in attaining culinary wonders without the ubiquitous card of listed dishes. The Edge’s chef will meet with guests to discuss dining options and to tailor a menu based on personal preferences and current desires. Grilled bamboo lobster flavoured with galangal root or perhaps a little Wagyu beef tenderloin with seared foie gras? There is no telling where such a memorable meal could go but with your full involvement and the celestial devotion of chef, it is likely to make an impressive mark in the tale of clifftop dining Bali style. Ayana Resort and Spa WHILE this gorgeous resort spreads across 1.3 kilometres of Jimbaran coastline, the true clifftop glamour moment has to be reserved for The Rock Bar. Perched 14 metres above a roiling and boiling ocean, this open-air bar rewrites the Book of Elan. Set across several platforms that follow the natural line of the limestone sculpted by Mother Earth, it has 360-degree views ocean from every seat, table or even standing at the bar. Explore this ultra hip and wildly unique environment and you may find yourself in a natural cave. Follow your adventurous soul through this subterranean grotto until you reach a secret garden that is fabulously suspended over a sandy beach. This is a serious starting point for a sunset cocktail mission while on The Bukit. Given that global cocktail guru, Sebastien Bonnefoi, designed the outstanding array of drinks on offer at The Rock Bar, it may be wise to dedicate a little more time than the traditional cocktail hour. Order up from the tapas menu and graze on some crispy taquitos and rock lobster spring rolls while the setting sun turns the sky and ocean a volcanic orange. For the full main game book Ayana’s private jetty for an outlandish dining alternative that is accessed by an inclinator that descends the rock face to sea level. And at the end of the timber pier, which is glowing in torch light naked flame, is the table for two. The powers of seduction become potent with a luscious five-course lobster dinner that may energise the mood of love.



M a ximilia n J encqu el


Stephanie Mee chats with Maximilian Jencquel, architect, interior designer and the driving force behind Studio Jencquel.

CAN you tell us a bit about your background . . . My mother was born in Tientsin, China, but her parents were originally from Russia. My father was born in Germany but part of his family migrated to Venezuela in the 1820s, and that is where I was born. I lived in Caracas until the age of 16, after which I left to attend a boarding school in the USA and then later pursue my studies as a designer in Paris. I lived in Paris for 10 years and it is there that my career as a designer really took off after I was recruited by Andrée Putman and joined her design studio. When did you know you wanted to be a designer? After reading The Road Not Taken by Robert Frost: Two roads diverged in a yellow wood, And sorry I could not travel both And be one traveler, long I stood And looked down one as far as I could To where it bent in the undergrowth; Then took the other, as just as fair, And having perhaps the better claim, Because it was grassy and wanted wear; Though as for that the passing there Had worn them really about the same . . . I shall be telling this with a sigh Somewhere ages and ages hence: Two roads diverged in a wood, and I – I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference. You spent some time working with Andrée Putman, and then went on to work for Christian Liaigre. What was it like to work with such luminaries of the design world? It was life-changing and I am very lucky to have had that opportunity. If I had been a professional footballer it would have been like playing for Inter Milan, or if I had been a chef, like working with Alain Ducasse at the Louis XV in Monaco. There is a lot of pressure because you know that you are with the best of the best and that your position is always at stake. There are only a handful of people that truly influence one’s life journey and Christian is certainly one of them. What drew you to Bali, and how did you end up in Ubud? I first came to Ubud because I wanted to meet Linda Garland and see her work. In fact, she had already inspired me as a kid when I visited a house that she had designed for David Bowie while I was on a sailing trip in the French Grenadines. Later I started to develop an interest in bamboo as a building material, and I used her work as a reference for my projects at school. After several trips to Bali and several stays at Linda’s Panchoran Estate, I also met John Hardy, who ultimately convinced me to leave Paris and move to Bali. How would you describe the design philosophy behind Studio Jencquel? Studio Jencquel tries to articulate various vernacular sources into

its designs. Our approach aims to re-introduce native elements into people’s homes or businesses, evoking a sense of intimacy and a strong emotional bond with the environment. In a fast-developing world, design is increasingly becoming generic, mass produced and predictable. Somewhere along the process, cultural aspects are lost, stories forgotten and meaningful nuances overlooked. We want to be the antithesis of that. You draw on the principles of Slow Design in your work. What exactly is Slow Design, and how do you incorporate it into your projects? Slow design is an analogy to what slow food is, the opposite of fast food to the design. I would not like to be catalogued as being at the epicentre of the slow design movement, which I’m clearly not, but I do like taking certain principles from the philosophy that resonate as inherent. For example, I enjoy taking my clients on a personal journey. I want every component of the design to tell a unique story. In an increasingly mass-produced world, I think that it is important to create a sense of intimacy and emotional connection to the objects that surround us. You have worked on projects in places as diverse as Tokyo, Miami, Paris and Athens. What are the biggest advantages and disadvantages to working in Bali compared to other international locales? A project is like a relationship whereby each one has its singularities and is different from the next. In Bali a lot of the creative process happens directly on the construction site as opposed to in the office. Usually the result is more organic and less structured, which is neither good nor bad; it’s just different. How would you describe the design scene here in Bali and Southeast Asia? I would compare it to the Klondike during the Gold Rush of 1897. It is young and effervescent. You see a little bit of everything and everybody wants a piece of the cake, but opportunities are still plentiful and just around the corner for anybody daring to take part in it. I would say that for young, talented and hard-working designers, Southeast Asia is a good place to start. Where do you see the design scene in Asia going in the future? It’s really hard to tell and there are too many factors to be considered, but I feel confident that it will develop in a positive way. There currently seems to be a large population of young and talented people wanting to undertake and create, in particular here in Indonesia. Let’s hope that opportunity comes their way.

maximillian's world.


oral pleasures

Classic location, different dining concept, sarah douglas says bellissima . . . photo: Lucky 8

KAFE Warisan began life as an Italian restaurant, so it seems only fitting that after a few years in the shadows it rises like a phoenix to take its place, once again, among Bali’s destination restaurants. The Italians have an innate sense of style and so it comes as no surprise that a tweak here and there has revealed a sultry new look to the gorgeous garden restaurant and bar. Veteran Italian restaurateur Beppe De Vito first launched the ilLido concept in Singapore in 2006 and it is still lauded among Singapore’s best. Taking over a dining institution like Kafe Warisan may at first seem risky but in these capable hands, it is a perfect fit. Open for lunch and dinner, with a gorgeous long bar and lounge, ilLido is already the talk of the town. The concept is fine dining with almost everything made on the premises. Overseen by Italian chef, Luca Masini, the menu reads like a culinary guide to Italian haute cuisine. Sharing plates is part of the Italian tradition, and an array of dishes arrived at our table – served up beautifully by the Italian floor manager, Pierre Scolari. A vast selection of appetisers tempts us at first up . . . smoky grilled octopus is flavoured with a house-made nduja, a peppery pork paste sausage straight out of Calabria – a deceptively simple dish that speaks volumes about this kitchen. Alongside we are served a tender bone marrow crostini with salsa verde and radish and glistening pan-fried scallops served with asparagus and a foamy lobster sauce. A pasta course is de rigeur and this one did not fail to impress. Pumpkin ravioli is dressed up as a gratin with burnished Parmesan on top, while a truffled cheese ravioli made its presence felt in a rich veal jus. The scrumptious seafood spaghetti was dressed with cherry tomatoes.


A garnet-coloured Chianti was the perfect accompanist. Main courses meandered along as the lunch crew lingered and tried to resist the homemade breads. Pride of place was a traditional salt-crusted grouper – the salt broken to reveal delicately flavoured white fish. A snapper fillet was dressed up with beetroot and fennel while a duck trio brought it all together; featuring a confit leg, smoked duck breast and pan fried foie gras. In true Italian style, our hosts were not going to allow us to escape until we had sampled a little of everything and enjoyed the fruitful bounty of the wine cellar. The biggest question we faced was whether there was room for dessert? The answer was, almost, but we were determined to try. Armed with heady Italian espressos, we dove into desserts. A strawberry sabayon with vanilla panacotta was almost two desserts in one – the fragrant fruit cutting through the vanilla cream. We could not leave without sampling the tiramisu – topped with chocolate pearls, it was way more than a mouthful but gloriously rich. IlLido is open for lunch and dinner and the bar opens up all sorts of possibilities for sunset aperitifs and pre-dinner drinks. Anything but stuffy, ilLido is warm and welcoming with a level of precision in the kitchen. And every dish shows off the experience and passion behind a restaurant run by experts. Prices at ilLido reflect the quality of the ingredients – a threecourse set lunch is offered at Rp180,000. There is something very seductive about ilLido and indeed . . . we’ll be back.

Ricotta Cheese Tortelli with Amatriciana. Perfection.


oral pleasures 112

the yak hits the beach to sample a new twist on an astablished friend. MOZAIC Beachclub is the darling of the smart set. Festooned with private canopy beds surrounding a glistening pool, with a festive long bar where happy hours last for hours, groovers and shakers have claimed it as their private paradise. Upstairs a more elegant air pervades and a clash of cultures has given birth to a new phase in dining for the beachside sister of award winning Mozaic Restaurant in Ubud. “Blending the two experiences has been a little challenging and overcoming the perception that the Beachclub is a mirror of the Ubud restaurant has convinced us that it’s time to shake things up a little,” explains corporate general manager Gary Rosen. Not only has a new brasserie menu been launched upstairs – a casual affair that perfectly blends the two spaces – the Beachclub has also introduced the new Wine Room; a concept that is sure to spark the interest of foodies and wine lovers. Two talented chefs – veteran Mozaic corporate chef James Ephraim together with newly appointed executive chef, Ashley Garvey, head up a skilled team to create an appealing brasserie menu that combines cleverly the elements of Mozaic’s philosophy. The new menu has a host of appealing options

and the prices, while not cheap, are within reach of us mere mortals. We began our meal with a beautifully presented charcuterie plate, a selection of salamis, iberico ham, chorizo and foie gras served with tomato bread and a pile of peppery rocket. Portions are generous and a number of the dishes are designed for sharing. Overlooking the Beachclub and the moonlit ocean this dining room remains a treat. The new wine room sparkled with alluring vintages and two winemakers were in attendance for a wine show. Naturally we were encouraged to sample their wares – a nice touch to the evening. We followed with a steak, a generous rib eye dressed with a spiced pepper sauce, à la Mozaic, and served with creamy potatoes . A freshly made Spanish jamon tortellini was the other main we chose – served dressed with parsley, garlic and an unusual lemony, chicken milk; a light, creamy emulsion of stock, served with a crispy pork cracker. The dining sensation here is the 1.4kg cote de boeuf, designed to share and served with a seductive selection of sides but that will have to wait for another day. The menu dances cheekily between Mozaicstyle Indonesian influences and brasserie classics. Not

surprisingly seafood features largely with everything from sashimi to grills and bouillabaisse. A gorgeous grilled slipper lobster with confit potatoes and lobster reduction caught my eye but so did many of the dishes. This is a menu worthy of a great beach club. The Wine Room offers private dining, wine tastings, and is a perfect venue for small receptions with the opportunity to purchase wine at bottle shop prices and pay a small corkage at the table. The manager is on hand to offer perfect pairing suggestions. The highlight of the night convinces my date that this is possibly her favourite restaurant in the world. The chef was on hand to create a dessert that you will want to film . . . A large black tile arrives at our table. It is artfully smeared with chocolate, fruit emulsions and scattered with edible flowers. The chef then spoons chocolate mousse into a cylinder from which it emerges frozen by liquid nitrogen and shards are placed on the plate. It’s a party piece for sure. This is the revamp that we have been waiting for, where downstairs blends effortlessly with the upstairs. Where dining in or out makes sense, where the food dances to the beat, where the ocean meets terra firma in a perfect marriage.

oral pleasures

sarah douglas takes a trip through the archipelago at bejana.

As one beautifully presented plate follows another at The Ritz-Carlton Bali’s Bejana Restaurant, a story unfolds of a culture that is steeped in history and culinary heritage. Indonesian food spans vast geography, history and centuries of influences and yet is probably the least familiar cuisine to international diners. The movement to change all that seems to have gained momentum recently with a spate of beautifully designed restaurants now paying special attention to the culinary traditions of the sprawling archipelago. “Indonesia has a very rich culinary heritage, and Bejana embraces this tradition,” says Karim Tayach, general manager of The Ritz-Carlton, Bali. “By introducing Indonesia’s most famous cuisines, we take our guests on a journey through the archipelago. In the polished way of The Ritz-Carlton, Bejana is a stunning space, paying homage to traditional architecture while retaining an elegance and polish that is wholly the “Ritz”. Perched on the cliff face, the resort twinkles below, at night resembling a small town spreading out towards the sea. With a skilled team, overseen by chef Made Suriana, who has returned to Bali from some of the world’s most renowned kitchens to serve up the food of his home, these dishes hit their mark every time. The dishes span some of the country’s most indigenous cultures including the spicy favourites from Sumatra, polished dishes favoured by the Javanese and naturally home-spun Balinese classics refined by a team of great chefs. There are a lot of things to get excited about here. First of all that Bali now has a new Ritz-Carlton property – it has been a while. Secondly, that Dorin Schuster has stepped into the role as executive chef, after years at The Legian in Seminyak. Overseeing all the food outlets at Ritz-Carlton – and they are many and varied – from the beach grill to Raku, a Japanese concept, to Breezes at the pool and their many wedding and function centres, this is a job for a chef with big ideas and high ideals. Ritz-Carlton has many loyal Indonesian clients so the food at Bejana has to satisfy very knowledgeable patrons. It must also seduce the diners who are


unfamiliar with the selected dishes. From seemingly simple dishes like a classic soto ayam, the elements piled high with a jug of exotic-flavoured stock to pour over; another view into the culture is revealed with slow-cooked lamb shank immersed in a mekuah, a Balinese spiced braising stock. The level of spice differs in each region, where some like it hot, others like it sweet. Dishes arrive from across the archipelago. A Sundanese gado-gado; a Balinese sate lilit with minced tuna; a Sumatran-style kaloi daging, a braised beef dish made rich with coconut milk; a spiced barramundi from North Sulawesi or an ikan bakar, Jimbaran-syle. Each recipe strives to reach five-star standards while remaining authentic. Ask not how hot is it, but rather what region does it come from? Herein lies your answer. As is common in Indonesia, a range of sambals will often accompany the dish, allowing the diner to add as much, or as little, according to their personal taste. For the novice, a degustation menu, or rijstaffel, takes you travelling through the archipelago with foods that offer intriguing highlights into the country’s favourite dishes, chosen by the chef. Other insightful highlights are included on the drinks menu. After dinner we were offered two spiced drinks much loved by the Indonesians – a bajigur served hot or cold made with spiced coconut milk and served with rum and Malibu (not the way it's normally served) or a Bejana, made with a homemade spice syrup base with vodka, lemon juice and kemangi (lemon basil). Overlooking the twinkling lights of the resort, looking out to the ocean, the dining room is beautiful and the terrace is a glorious place to enjoy the view. A section of the restaurant is a fashioned cave where cooking classes take guests through the local dishes. The Culinary Cave is a place where converts can master the recipes of Indonesia and take them home to in-turn introduce them to friends and family. Bejana at Ritz-Carlton offers more than simply a great meal . . . it offers an insight into a little known culinary culture and a chance to experience something truly authentic.

Ask not how hot is it, but rather what region does it come from?


oral pleasures

The Yak visits a well-oiled machine on a mission.

beach life.

MULTITUDINOUS shots of beautiful girls parading in bikinis and seemingly endless parties . . . the heart of the Nikki Beach concept might have eluded many. With the arrival of two veteran Nikki Beach managers, this now seems put to rights – a chance to discover what happens behind the scenes reveals a well-oiled machine on a mission. Michael Sin has worked with Nikki Beach since he was a teenager in Miami – the first Nikki beach club – and his experienced colleague, Kia Zalewski, are here to spread the word about what started as a family business. Nikki Beach is best known for its long Sunday brunches rather than OTT parties – although they do enjoy throwing them. And in the hands of Nikki Beach’s executive chef, Richard John Barrett, Nikki Beach has a character that goes beyond the “beach club” concept. With everything – including the cocktail mixes – made in-house, the menu is exciting and vibrant. From fresh seafood and an impressive sushi boat – that has to be seen and experienced – to the rotisserie chicken; all the baked goods and gourmet pizzas . . . recipes are mingled with experience and a sense of place. All Nikki Beach menus feature dishes from their individual locations – from the USA to Spain, Thailand, and now Bali. My companion, Kia, had to have the Indonesian-inspired deep fried eggs with sambal. She got hooked on spice while working at Nikki Beach Koh Samui and I had to admit it was a dish I hadn’t tried and it was good. Her next course was another spicy entry from the sushi menu, which is far from predictable, like many things here. A Marbella spicy tuna roll, inspired by their biggest club to date, was spiced with sambal and laced with fresh avocado, wrapped in sushi rice with sesame seeds and tempura flakes.


Other sushi inspirations nod to Thailand, Spain, France and yes, Bali. Like the gourmet wood-fired pizzas, the menu is fresh and fun and yet has all the hallmarks of great quality and a commitment to freshness. The rotisserie is a great addition to the menu with the burnished birds spreading a delicious aroma, offered with a variety of seasonings. Perfect for a day at the beach beside one of their fresh, gourmet salads. On a hot day, cooled by fans, a sea breeze beside the turquoise pool surrounded by orange day beds, a simple meal appealed and the spaghetti gamberetti, with the perfect hint of chili, hit the spot. The menu meanders around the world and is both appealing and far more affordable than you might imagine. Chef Barrett gave up a career in IT to follow his heart into the kitchen and at the heart of every dish you sense a man with a plan to celebrate food in all its guises. Michael Sin sets us straight on what makes Nikki Beach tick. “Nikki Beach clubs are often located off the beaten track and we are in love with our location on the white sand beach at Nusa Dua,” he says. “Nikki Beach isn’t about loud music or constant parties, we like to create places where guests can make their own party. We provide gorgeous venues, smooth tunes, great food and high-quality cocktails and we leave it up to our guests,” he explains. Kia carries on the theme: “ We want to do a couple of great parties a year, our brunch is already really popular, and we put on a bit of a show with dishes like the sushi boat which is a favourite with our guests. Then we do events. We make sure that everything from the food to the drinks to the entertainment is high quality and whether people are staying in Nusa Dua or come for the day, we love being a destination beach club.” While Nikki Beach Bali is a day club during the week, a new event has put them on the map for those who want to linger after the sun goes down, with a new concept, Bubble-Q offering a beach barbecue with bubbles every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening. “It’s like a steakhouse concept on the beach. We fire up the grill and put on steaks and seafood and we’ve introduced some of our most famous cocktails to go with it, including our famous flavoured mojitos and bubble cocktails. It’s a grown up beach barbecue.” So it turns out that Nikki Beach is more about the food than you may have thought. That doesn’t mean you won’t get a glimpse of the beautiful people or that the swim up bar won’t see a dance or two but the fun is left up to the guests, which is a very refreshing concept. Nikki Beach is well worth the trip to one of Bali’s best swimming beaches, and if you are already in Nusa Dua, it is a vibrant and fabulous addition to the beachwalk.

oral pleasures

living stone's, i presume.


Bread and circuses have oft been life staples . . . we’ve got the bread, writes Ondy Sweeting.

"LET them eat cake" may have been erroneously attributed to the ill-fated Marie Antoinette . . . If the parvenu were ripping down the walls of Kerobokan prison while the masses were revolting on the streets of Seminyak the only words worth uttering for a rarefied princess from a pristine palace would have to be: “let them eat croissants” . . . a buttery revolution has been raging under our noses in Bali. Bags of fine European flour, Belgian butter and French chocolate are being shipped in with wicked regularity. So here's our selection of the best. Monsieur Spoon PASTRY chef and superstar, Rafi Papazian, started the legendary Monsieur Spoon in 2012 and promptly turned Bali’s flat and boring baking business on its head. No longer is it acceptable to be offered, or to eat, a croissant that is an anaemic-looking shade of pale – akin to something freshly dug up. Unlike many entrepreneurs keen to get the door open as soon as possible, Rafi spent six months in the kitchen workshopping, testing and refining his Paristrained skills to fit the local conditions without compromising on texture or taste. He had to be sure that he could turn out the consummate croissant to the local French community in Umalas. Setting up shop came second to perfecting his product. “We worked and worked and opened the kitchen door – as there was no sort of café then – and would literally pass a bag of croissants out through the door to our customers. It is very strange and funny but it worked. There was no way I would open until the croissant was beautiful. Flaky and brown on top where the butter has just had the right amount of heat to produce the best flavour,” Rafi says. In fact it worked so well that just three years later Monsieur Spoon has shops and cafés in Umalas, Canggu and Seminyak that are so successful as the destination for baked delicacies that all three operations are now run with a café menu that goes beyond bread and pastries to include quintessentially French salads, quiche and other delicious goodies. The good news is that they are all open until 9pm. The dashing business partners and cousins, Rafi and Greg Guerguerian, beamed into Bali because of the deep cultural love of beauty and its traditional passion for artisanal products.

“Artisans here carve wood beautifully and make the most amazing things. People are happy to take time to create exquisite things, which is exactly how we approach baking. This is perfect for me because I am a passionate artisan too. I believe that creating the bread by hand makes it superior to anything produced on an industrial level. Our staff is happy to slice strawberries perfectly for two hours and they enjoy it. The island is a paradise for artisans like us,” Rafi says. “We love this level of pride in what we all produce and that our staff is as madly passionate as we are. The Balinese people are the real gift of this island,” Greg says. With a snazzy online ordering system and cash on delivery payment we can expect to see more and more Monsieur Spoon vans scooting around the gangs of south Bali delivering bread and pastries that are still warm, allowing those of us who are too lazy to do an early morning bread run to have an even better sleep-in and eat like emperors. Livingstone Café & Bakery LIVINGSTONE Café & Bakery on Petitenget stepped up to claim its position as among the best bakeries on Bali soon after opening its huge glass doors to the vaulted post-industrial warehouse-style eatery. A curious collaboration between pastry chef, Herdi Giri, and coffee-fiend and entrepreneur, Anthony Pribudi, has ensured that word has reached far and wide that the bread is good and the attitude is even better. Stashed in the back of the commercial kitchen is a storage area seething with Herdi’s enormous bags of flours. Some are from Belgium and these are used for the sweet treats, while German-made flour is reserved for bread. Even the chocolate is by upscale Valrhrona from France. Herdi has the kitchens baking across a 24/7 cycle to produce Livingstone’s fine array of breads and pastries. In fact the kitchen is capable of producing 90 different types of bread. This is welcome news for anyone who had been turned away at 11am when the bread had sold out . . . in Livingstone’s earliest days of baking. The savvy partners quickly realised that they were onto a great things and expanded their staff and ramped up the kitchen to make sure that no one goes without their daily bread.


oral pleasures

bonjour, monsieur spoon.

“This way we always have fresh produce coming out onto the shelves throughout the day and evening. Our multi-cereal bread, sour dough, Pain de Campagne and baguettes fly out of the shop so we need to constantly replenish so everybody is able to buy what they want,” Herdi says. Cast an eye over this delectable corner of the epic space and you will find pretzels, scones, muffins, white loaves, country grains and a wild-looking sliced loaf that looks like watermelon with the green skin – flavoured with delicious pandan and chocolate bits for pips. It’s a hit for kids old and young. Taste it . . . slather on the butter and weep. Nothing is too much trouble for this dedicated team and if a client requests a bread that is not already on Livingstone’s extensive menu they will immediately set about becoming familiar enough with a recipe so they can produce it. Bespoke breads that are regularly made to order at Livingstone include gluten free, dairy free and sugar free loaves. “If you can’t find it on the shelf, we will bake it for you,” Herdi says. The fancies cakes are not to be passed over with Herdi’s team capable of creating 125 different types of sweet morsels that range from chocolate and mango domes, traditional lamingtons, and what appears to be a potted plant but is, in fact, a chocolate pot filled with chocolate mousse and sponge with crushed Oreos on top, and a pretty purple flowering plant crafted from chocolate and icing. The immense offering of cakes, breads and mouth-watering treats has kept the doors of this Livingstone swinging open to hungry customers and a whole brace of restaurants and hotels that demand vast quantities of wholesale products. It’s no coincidence that the bakery is in production all day, every day. Gardin Bistro and Patisserie AROUND the corner is Gardin Bistro and Patisserie where high tea takes an interesting twist – offering such curious concoctions as green tea crème brulee and Nutella 120

mousse. A delicate porcelain three-tiered cake stand is also laden with cookies, cheesecake, citrus florentine and some savoury snacks. As part of the ultra-glam Mirror nightclub, the café takes on the same Gothicstyle architecture with a bar and lounge at the street front while at the back a light and airy conservatory overlooks a pretty garden and the front of the legendary nightspot. Since opening its charming arched doors last year Gardin Bistro and Patisserie is a hit with the vacationing Jakarta set who love nothing more than having a gorgeous high-tea at 3pm in chic surroundings that are perfectly air-conditioned, rather than hanging around on a burning beach. However, high tea is not the only option from this elegant destination. Gardin Bistro and Patisserie is now open from 10am for brunch and continues with a full service until 1am. Along with the tasty patisserie, the range Indonesian and Chinese influenced dishes – including a tempeh burger – are offered from lunchtime through to the early hours. *** Every item of bread through to Black Forest gateaux is produced in the top floor pastry kitchen. The little milk buns that appear on the high tea tray stuffed with salad and meats are delicious and fluffy. Other bakeries that have followed the path of these three trailblazers include The Paris Baguette, which is on Jalan Kayu Putih on the way to Berawa. It does excellent pave bread – a white farmhouse-style loaf – and when the baguettes are hot they are epic. The couple from France bake regularly throughout the day, in typical French style, so no one has to suffer the indignity of stale pain. In Batu Bulong the tiny boutique bakery called The Kartel has Australians in Canggu all twitchy about the Vegemite rolls, divine custard buns and achingly aromatic cinnamon rolls. They also do a popular line of handcrafted sliced breads, sausage rolls and meat pies that sell like . . . er . . . hot cakes.





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Sanur I Ubud I Nusa Dua I Jimbaran P. 62 361 705 777 F. 62 361 705 101 E.

oral pleasures

heaven at the legian.


Ondy sweeting meets Aussie chef Luke McCloud for a sensuous seafood dalliance at The Legian.

HAVING winged his way from small town Brisbane to some of the best Michelin-starred gastronomic dining rooms in France, Australian chef Luke McCloud is rocking the kitchen of the seminal Seminyak hotel The Legian. He absolutely knows how to shake a fish dish into delectable shape. Fish fanciers need to pay a visit to The Legian. Not only is its premium beachside location fabulous for pre-dinner drinks, the low lights of the resort reflect on the rolling waves and gentle white horses late into the night as a blissful apparition. This sets a scene for a romantic interlude or some outstanding dining. While the à la carte menu is full of delicacies from land and hills, Luke and his team created a divine dinner for Yakkers to explore this executive chef’s many talents. The Sea Amber Jack Carpaccio with lemon grass, lime and sea grapes may sound simple and delicate. It is a taste tsunami of ocean perfection. Amber jack fish is otherwise known as yellow tail tuna and the very best part of it is called hamachi. This tiny cut from the neck of the fish is so firm that it is almost always eaten raw and particularly beloved in Japan for sashimi. The fat of the fish is tempered by the lime and lemongrass and enhanced with shreds of peppery sea grapes – which are often called green caviar. Luke has turned the dish into an artwork that is presented floating on a clear bag of icy water that is decorated with sand and shells inside. Ten out of 10 for presentation and flavour that calls for a fishy encore but not before an amazing dish of flowers appears. Yes, flowers. On a light custard of sambal sat crisp zucchini flowers with a smattering of lemony pepper-flavoured begonia and the astringent and aromatic star anise taste of the dill flower turned the dish into a festival of big flavours from these tiny edible botanic specimens. It was also as pretty as a picture. Back to the language of the ocean we go and Luke clearly knows his way around the sea and how best to highlight the essence of the deep. A tuna laab polarised Luke’s time working in the five-star kitchens of Bangkok and Phuket. This tartar of yellow fin tuna was cooked with the spice from the lemon grass, galangal root, chilli, mint and lime juice. It has a gentle buck rather than a mule kick, just to remind diners that Luke loves using Thai spices and mixing it up with local Balinese ingredients. The tuna is incredibly tender and melts the

moment it is in your mouth. “I have been working in Europe and Asia for the past 12 years so I have really integrated so many different tastes and cooking techniques together into a unique style,” he says. The French influence comes from working under some of the most important names in Gallic cuisine, including Guerard and Alain Senderens – who are among the founding fathers of nouvelle cuisine – and Alexandre Bourdas. Luke worked in both Paris and the exquisite southwest of the country where produce is astounding and the kitchens terrifying. “I just love bringing together the great traditions of the French classic kitchen and the inspiring flavours of Asia. Working the local produce to its best possible form is my aim,” he says. . . . bewitchingly illustrated in the Lobster ravioli that is filled with lusciously sweet local slipper lobster – a similar creature to Australia’s legendary Balmain or Moreton Bay Bugs. This single piece of heaven is a feather-light foam of soy and garlic and teensy diced tomato that provides a little drop of acid to bring out the refined brackish palate. The creation of such delightfully flavoured foam is a telling sign about the presence of science and molecular gastronomy in the kitchen. In fact the very next dish – a dessert of mango cashew and coconut – reveals another bit of experimental technique. A tropical ice cream is coupled with a one-minute sponge – the creation of which involves blasting cake batter with a good dose of carbon dioxide gas. Apparently some impressively long equations are written out on paper in the galley rather than a recipe in words. The result is a very happy one so don’t miss the soufflé of caramel, chocolate and ginger topped with lavender ice cream. “I really had no idea how many beautiful things are grown locally for me to use. Who knew that I could get lavender in Indonesia and here we are making ice cream with it. There is just so much to explore here,” Luke says. The Legian offers stylish destination dining but it is also opening its sleek doors and beautiful beachfront to the public every Friday evening for a Seafood Indulgence dinner, and given what Luke McCloud can do with a piece of tuna and some sea grapes, it will definitely be one for the fish freaks.


big six

SARAH DOUGLAS gets gooey over fish eggs.

Such a strange thing caviar, not something with immediate appeal for everyone. Yet, for centuries people have paid wild sums for the eggs of certain fish, who give their lives (and those of their potential offspring) to feed this weird obsession. I became a member of the caviar club somewhat by accident. Invited to an event on a howling holiday night in Bali, I discovered that most of the guests had sensibly stayed home. The hosts were set up for a big night and among the groaning buffet tables was a dedicated caviar station. A one kilo tin of glistening silvery black eggs was couched in ice, a white-hatted chef was making fresh blinis and there was no one to eat them, save a few of us world-weary stalwarts. The first one was swallowed whole, the second almost slid down, by the fifth I was starting to warm to the strange crackling, deeply fishy eggs. By the tenth, I was hooked and now the mere mention of the pearl-like spawn is enough to get me going. I imagine it’s a little like Australian children who grow up on Vegemite, seems weird to the rest of us but completely normal to them. Do Russian children grow up on caviar? I imagine they do. For the rest of us acquiring this taste introduces a new level of sophisticated dining, how weird is that? Never fear, in Bali, the caviar comes in all shapes and sizes, from the revered Beluga (occasionally) to the more attainable and sustainable Sevruga. Order it up in luxe portions or scattered on a dish. Real caviar is born of a very large fish, sturgeon, and only sturgeon. Sturgeon are one of the world’s oldest species going back 250 million years, having survived the dinosaurs. The rarer the caviar, the more expensive it is. The Caspian sea spans Russia and Iran, and those in the know will tell you the rarer Iranian beluga is top of the pops. Caviar from any other beast must be designated by the fish it comes from. Caviar is widely farmed in the USA where sturgeon farming has become a lucrative business. Its roe is deemed very similar to the Caspian Sea sturgeon caviar and is much lower in price. Eighty percent of farmed caviar comes from the USA and is often marketed as American caviar. As sturgeon stocks decrease and the catches are now limited by law, farmed lake sturgeon is on the rise, producing commonly Osetra, Baeril and white sturgeon caviar. As natural stocks dwindle, sturgeon are farmed in artesian well water, fed the ideal, toxin-free diet and the result is premium quality caviar at an affordable price. Beluga Caviar. In terms of taste, Beluga caviar, the most prized of all, next to the very rare Sterlet, is quite large and ranges in colour from black to pale grey. The flavour is described as smooth and buttery. Less than 100 Beluga sturgeon are caught each year. Osetra Caviar Also spelled Ossetra, the eggs are medium-sized and range in colour from dark


brown to light grey and are often preferred for their nutty, slightly fruity flavor. Sevruga Caviar This is most commonly found in Bali. The Sevruga sturgeon produces the smallest roe of all and is more plentiful than the other two. Its colour varies from very black to very light grey in colour and also boasts a smooth, buttery flavor. It is also saltier, richer and more intense and is highly valued in the flavour stakes. Sturia Caviar Comparable to Osetra Caviar, Sturia is preserved in salt to EU standards. Sturia is unique due to its distinctive flavour from the terroir where the fish are bred: the estuaries of the Gironde in France. Ranging in colour from charcoal grey to golden nut brown, it is a large-grained product with great texture, a fresh saltsea taste and a nutty finish. The also rans are not bad either. Paddlefish, Hackleback and Bowfin Caviar. Named for the fish that produce the roe, each of these caviar range in colour from black to pearl-grey and are considered good substitutes for the higher priced varieties. Salmon, Whitefish and trout Caviar A favourite of sushi chefs, the larger, orange, fish roe is still considered caviar. Characteristically the juicy eggs will pop in the mouth. With a buttery finish and a softer, fish flavor, the orange eggs are widely available and add both texture and colour to both Asian and Western dishes. Caviar in Bali Sevruga caviar is traditionally served with chopped egg, onion and toast fingers or white bread. In the Russian tradition it is served with pancake-like blinis. Our top pick to experience caviar in Bali is St Regis, where Sturia caviar is served with fresh blinis and traditional accompaniments as part of their Sunday champagne brunch. It is also featured at their original brunch at Boneka, served atop a beautiful creamy egg with lobster. At Ku De Ta, Sturia caviar is also featured, served with condiments. A 30g serving is beautifully presented to create a rare treat for the sun-drenched diner. Many of Bali’s finer restaurants feature caviar in their special event menus. Sundara’s Chef at Four Seasons prepares it every Saturday for a regular guest who places a special order with the chef. It’s also available at The Lounge @ Metis Bali, Urchin Restaurant, Red Carpet Champagne Bar and Ju Ma Na @ Banyan Tree Ungasan Bali.

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5:50:19 PM


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sounds around

Phar cyde Imani JH catches up with wordsmith Imani from LA hip-hop maverick group The Pharcyde. SO Imani, first time to Bali? Any first impressions? You know, is this for real? Like permission to speaking freely? Yup. I had heard a lot stuff before coming here, largest Muslim nation and so on, but the people here are super friendly. More so than in other countries, I mean some of the people in Canada? Completely unfriendly. Growing up – who were your strongest musical influences? Well I guess it would have to be James Brown and Michael Jackson. You know, also from my parent’s music, War, P-Funk, and then later on their parent’s music, some of the older stuff. How did the group come together? We kind of got together through doing dance and choreography for videos. You know that Michael Jackson video Remember the Time? Yeah, I was in that. So, basically from meeting through those types of sessions we met and eventually decided to try and make our own thing. But we were all from different areas of Los Angeles, so we all had our own perspectives. The Pharcyde sound was completely different when you guys came out, surreal and psychedelic. How did the name come about? 140

We had a few options; The Wrappers, you know like generic packaging, Real Jiggaboos, which all the parents and old folks protested against, The Beat Junkies (which someone stole from us as their name) and then The Pharcyde, which I came up with by combining pharmacy and homicide. How did the group break apart? You know people always are saying why don’t you get back together, but they don’t know the facts. They weren’t there. If they were, they would understand. I’ve had to cover for Fat Lip’s lyrics since ’93 when he forgot his lines on live television on the Arsenio Hall show. We did get back together for Rock the Bells show, but that was more for money and not the right reasons. Fat Lip’s mantra back in the day was ”I don’t give a fuck”, and Tre was more in to astrology and had problems with Fat Lip on a star-sign level, so they kind of cancelled each other out. How do you see the music industry these days compared to when you were just coming out? Ok, our first album came out in ’92 and I’m here on Bali in 2015 talking about the show tonight, chillin' in this hotel doing this interview with you, so how fucked up could it actually be? I mean, how many millionaires are out there, you know? I mean the state of hip hop goes by how we feel about it, the state of hip hop is great! I mean it hasn’t been greater, there’s more money being generated, more opportunities? I guess I meant with the internet and shorter attention spans these days? Okay, be careful what you ask for. Sorry… No, not you, hip hop consumer, hip hop artists, be careful what you ask for. It started off in the parks, outdoors, for free. It can never be that once it becomes a business. It’s an oxymoron; music and business don’t go together. Music is something that comes from nature, that can be done in your mind, it’s an energy thing. Business means dollar signs, money and that’s it, by any means to get the dollar … and there’s nothing wrong with that, but don’t confuse the two. It has nothing to do with your skills, your beats, nothing, it’s about being in line with the right people, timing, precision and rhythm, that’s kind of how I look at it. You don’t think any talents still get picked up from the streets? I think you have one chance, to do it by chance. After you make a hit, they come to your door. Whoever they are; whether it’s the men in black, whether it’s the pressure from your fans, the pressure to sell. You know, the first album, you can be free. Nobody’s telling you to do anything. The second album is like – NNNN. You can’t do this, you can’t do that, what about the last album? You know we had this thing, where we believed artists, or more specifically hip hop artists, are good for three albums. So we did two albums together and were not upset at all, you know we saw you can become who you need to become in three records, and then do whatever you want to do after that. I don’t want to do records, and records, and records, it’s cool but it’s not mandatory. Nobody should look at anyone differently because they decided not to make records anymore. That’s what I don’t understand, it’s like time goes by, and people say, you fell off! And I say, really? People get caught up and think this is reality, but making records is fantasy and fun, you know I’m not a rapper, that’s what my profession is. I’m an adventurer, a world explorer, a father. What’s your dream? My dream…is to raise two good human men, I have an 18-year-old and a 20-year-old who’s going to be 21 soon and become a father, so I’ll be a grandfather and I think I’ve done it … and I ain’t dead.

Jenja offers a majestic night out. From delicious food, to parties until the break of dawn.

jl. nakula barat 18, seminyak - bali




J.H. takes on barrington Levy and Damian Lazarus.

Album: Acousticalevy Artist: Barrington Levy Label: Ras Records / BMG A blast from the sun-splashed past returns in the form of reggae legend Barrington Levy with his signature tone pared back to the bone with a medley of his “mellow canary” classics redone and revitalized with the help of hit-making producer Handel Tucker. Opening with the seminal Murdera, Levy takes you on an intimate tour of his best songs from over the years, laid back in production for the most part letting his vocal prowess do the work and shine. Life is Great laments the troubles of life and worthlessness of money but endures with the hope and blessings that are ever present. Under Mi Sensi revisits run-ins with the law in classic style with a troubadour twist. Be Strong resolves a bitter sweet relationship gone wrong while having done your best, jealousy can unravel even the strongest loves. She’s Mine serves up a sunny tribute to a love that grows every day, while Black Roses returns to the ritual of tending the things you cherish in a Latin flecked guitar rendition. Teach the Youth warns the new generations of modern social ills and serves as reminder to the important things in life, while Things

Friends casts aside those flight-footed friends who are only around when times are good. The only tracks that use any voice modulation are Times Hard and Only You which almost seems like a wink to the young-guns, saying, “Yeah, I can do this too but don’t need to.” Here I Come retells a Levy anthem with just deference, and while some may miss the rumbling bass lines of the original, still packs a punch even stripped back. Don’t Run Away beckons his lady to return and forget untrue friends as they only cause pain and aren’t worth the trouble. Vice Versa Love could be taken as too melodramatic with Bruce Hornsby-ish piano keys, but leads in to Vibes is Right as the last track which ends well. Overall this album delivers a refreshing return to roots for true reggae-lovers, and a solid addition to anyone’s collection. Levy proves the magic still lies in the voice and lyrics way more than fancy production, and serves a welcome change from all the layered glitz that has become standard these days.

Album: Message from the Other Side Artist: Damian Lazarus & The Ancient Moons Label: Crosstown Rebels Shiver me timbers, this album makes you cry tears of joy at the sheer prowess and musical mastery of a man who has travelled far and wide, picking up influences, melodies, instruments and vocals from Pakistan, India and across Africa to build a veritable masterpiece. Recorded in Mexico, this album deftly blends old world wisdoms with new world tech house production and the result is simply awe inspiring. Mystical and moody, the journey here takes you on a flight of fancy and fantastical proportions. Fusing soul, trance, tribal and various ethnic sensibilities, you truly feel you have been transported to another world where boundaries are meaningless and everyone shares in their joy of dance and human connection with the universe. Sweeping orchestral soundscapes melt with bubbling bass lines, while the soulful vocals of LA soul-singer Moses Sumney soar across the tracks of Vermillion, We Will Return and Tangled Web. Elsewhere the Sufi-inspired chants of Pakistani qawaali


Fareed Ayaz, Abu Muhammad and Hamza Akram lure you into the desert on Lovers Eyes. Trouble at the Séance brings you to a voodoo ritual where marimbas merge with twinkling keys and the shaman surfs on oozing bass frequencies. Meanwhile a Guinean princess matter of factly muses on the ways of the cosmos while mouth harps pluck your heartstrings and serve up an African head charge on Sacred Dance of the Demons. This album becomes an instant classic just based on the range and depth of cultures explored and no doubt will become a trusted companion to any astral traveller. Lazarus has possibly created his best album to date that will no doubt stand the test of time, becoming truly timeless, which is what any great artist strives for.

advertiser's directory 144

EVENT ORGANISER Pro Motion Events Tel: 287250 Page 141 HEALTH, SPAS & SALONS Kaiana Spa Tel: 730562/737067 Page 121 Yak Map V.11 Kayu Manis Tel: 705 777 Page 121 Spoiled Tel: 8475141/081999288555 Yak Directory 6 Yak Map G.1

Page 26 Sofitel Tel: 8492888 Page 41 The Gangsa Page 121 Tugu Page 120 The Ritz Carlton Tel: 849 8988 Page 59 Villa Lega Page 115 Yak Map K.3 Villa Palma Tel: 081236301330/0817347389 HOSPITALS/CLINIC Page 121 Yak Map K.1 International SOS W Hotel Tel: 720100 Page 143 Yak Map G.11 Tel: 4738 106 Page 31 Yak Map O.4 HOTELS & VILLAS Alila Manggis MEDIA / PRINTING Tel: 0363.41011 Island Communications Tel: 282010 Page 6 - 7 Alila Seminyak Page 143 Page 6 – 7 & FIC Yak Map. N.5 Indonesia Printer Tel: 021 29022055 Alila Ubud Tel: 975963 Page 126 Page 6 - 7 MISCELLANEOUS Alila Villas Uluwatu Bali Landscape Tel: 8482166 Tel: +62 81805661227 Page 6 – 7 Yak Directory 2 Yak Map P.1 Alila Villa Soori IAA Tel: 8946388 Page 28 Page 6 – 7 Third Millennia Health Conrad Tel 737317 Tel: 778788 Page 143 Yak Map Z.15 Page 45 Dash PROPERTY Tel: 3004666 Elite Havens Page BIC Yak Map O.5 Tel: 731074 /738747 Four Seasons Sayan Page 1 Yak Map P.8 Tel: 977577 RESTAURANTS & BARS Page 49 Bali Food Safari Grand Nikko Bali Tel: 773377 Yak Directory 8 Balique Page 43 Tel: 704945 Karma Beach Club Tel: 84822000 Page 23 Barbacoa Page 27 Tel: 739233 Mesa Stila Hotel Page 25 Yak Map U.3 Tel: (0298) 596333 Bazaar Tel: 4732292 Page 40 Sandat Glamping Page 51 Yak Map S.2

CP Lounge Tel: 978954 Page 141 Hujan Locale Tel: 8493092 Page 16 IlLido Tel: 731175 Page 22 Yak Map U.4 Jenja Tel: (+ 62)8113988088 Page 139 Yak Map W.14 Ku De Ta Tel: 736969 Page 3 Yak Map N.8 Lilin Tel: 4737979 Page 35 Yak Map N.5 Livingstone Tel: 4735949 Fb: Livingstone Café & Bakery Page 101 Yak Map S.3 Monsieur Spoon Tel: +62 87862808859 Page 126 Yak Map O.1, S.2 Mozaic Ubud Tel: 975768 Page 53 Mozaic Beach Club Tel: 4735796 Page 125 Yak Map J.2 Sardine Page 10 - 11 Yak Map U.3 Shiro Restaurant Tel: 731343 Page 15 Yak Map R.6 Sundara Tel: 708333 Page 39 Tirtha Dining Tel: 8471151/0828361111 Page 111 The Bistrot Tel: 738308 Page 19 Yak Map S.8 The Holy Crab Page 119 Yak Map Q.3 VIN Plus Tel: 4732377 Page 119 Yak Map O.7 SHOPS 69 Slam Page 37

Yak Map T.7, V.9, V.10

Bamboo Blonde Page 18 Yak Map S.8, U.11 Balquisse Living Tel: 8476833 Page 17 Yak Map W.7, E.5 Biasa Page 4 – 5 Yak Map V.12 Casamayor Page 52 Yak Map L.1 Deus Ex Machina Tel: 3683395 Page 8 - 9 Yak Map O.8 Grammes Jewelry Tel: 731562/283861/769555 Page 111 Yak Map U.10 Havaianas Page 29 Yak Map X.9 House of IOCO Page 12 - 13 Yak Map V.11 Kapal Laut Page 127 Yak Map T.14 Lilla Lane Tel: 736180, 736962 Page 33 Yak Map S.8, V.9 Paul Ropp Tel: 701202,081238159153,731002 Back Cover Yak Map T.8 Periplus Page 127 Yak Map F.13/P.7 Pesamuan Ceramic Tel: +62 81138112, 281440, 284213 Page 101 Sabia Tel: 733995/4737641 Page 38 Yak Map N.5, T.8, U.13 Shan Shan Tel: 737160/704945/5512857 Page 23 Yak Map U.9 Stephane Sensey Tel: 735035 Page 2 Yak Map V.3 Sunbrella Page 47 Quarzia Tel: 736644 Page 21 Yak Map Q.8 Warisan furniture Tel: 730048/701081 Page 58 Yak Map U.4

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Make sure to put life-saving skills and vaccinations on your list. For more information, please contact: International SOS Marketing Dept. t +62 (0)21 750 5973 f +62 (0)21 7590 0085 e

SOS Medika Klinik - Cipete: Jl. Puri Sakti No. 10, Cipete - Antasari, Jakarta Selatan 12410 t +62 (0)21 750 5980

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moodofthemoment By Dr Deepak | | | Skype: drdeepakvidmar

THE energies in June are not as intense in the world as they were before. It is a sort of cooling off period or the eye of the storm. Uranian forces of freedom and individuality have given up fighting with Plutonian forces controlling them and are going off to find their own space. Everything is still changing, however, and the change is getting faster and faster. Mars transit in Cancer the whole month of July energises the cardinal signs (Aries-Cancer-Libra-Capricorn). On the one hand, they have the energy to get things done. On the other hand, they may be impatient or irritable or angry. The Moon is the trigger and on July 15th . . . something blows up.


Running toward or running from, it doesn’t really matter as long as you are free; free from what has been controlling you, suppressing you. Your Uranus transit until 2018 is taking you onward toward your True Self away from the dark, clutching forces of Pluto. The purpose of all of that was to help you let go of what wasn’t true for you and to step out of the box into your own space. Time for experiencing – not for achieving. Forget about making any plans. Do what you have never done before and go where no person has ever gone before.

of a good thing at this time though. Tendency to overdo, puff your chest out, and pontificate as if you know it all. Even though you might, the best strategy is to not draw attention to yourself. Instead, help others in whatever indirect, sneaky way you can to have these same feelings about themselves. You live in a world of self-hatred my friend and any show of self-appreciation from anyone will make others want to tear him down. Unless they can learn to love themselves . . .


Perhaps there is a yearning for a deeper existential significance in your life now that explains taurus Mars transit in your sign gives you the what it is all about and why this nagging feeling of energy to go out into the world and do what you like. It is a incompleteness and something missing. The tendency is good time to be busy, busy and get things done. It can to try to fill it with an answer from your logical, analytical also make you impatient, irritable and short-tempered. mind, but words are not the experience and are somehow Impulse control is the issue. Do you go with your impulses unsatisfying. What is satisfying for you now is to be with and feelings or do you stick to the plan that your mind yourself and to be in nature, just you and Her. You have made up some time ago in another space. Your curiosity a gift coming, to good karma from all the kind deeds you may be provoked by something interesting at this time, have done in all your past lives. particularly different ways to make money.


Happy Birthday Beloved. Life is full of paradoxes, dualities and contradictions for you now. On the one hand, Venus transit indicates you are at your charming best. On the other hand, Saturn opposition holds yourself and others back from intimacy. On the one hand, Neptune square indicates a dreaming time full of hopes and wishes. On the other hand, Mars transit makes you impulsive, Neptune makes you lazy, and Saturn holds you back. Enjoy the variety. You will not be bored.


The big bad but transforming energies of Pluto/Uranus are finally separating and pulling away from each other. Uranus is in the lead now so surprise from the unexpected comes first. Its purpose is to show you a new way to a true you. Pluto follows to cleanse and purge the old so that the new can happen. Mars transit in Cancer the whole month of July either gives you energy or irritation and anger. July 15th is the peak. Either you can move mountains or you get caught in a landslide. Happy Birthday.


Mr. Good Guy Jupiter still in Leo giving you self-confidence and good fortune. It might be too much


libra Others become unpredictable and unreliable to you now. The Pluto/Uranus energies continue to challenge the cardinal signs to increase their consciousness. The impact is strongest if you are born October 6 to 14. The juice is with your friends and the contributions you make to the world in the form of something called work. Good to be pursuing a higher learning at this time and the bigger the picture you can build, the better. July is a time when reason does not prevail and making peace will have to be done a different way. scorpio You can be a success in the world on the inside or you can know the sacred secrets on the inside. Not easy to do both together at the same time. If you go for the sacred secret, you have to go within and strip yourself bare. The expectations and demands from others, even love, will distract you mercilessly. If you go for the success on the outside, the inside will not be nourished and there will always be this existential yearning. Maybe the best strategy is to see yourself in others and see the secret in them.


When Neptune went square Sagittarius in 2011, the dream began, the dream to find Home, the place where you belong as you are whoever you are. Hopes and wishes became stronger than practicality and maybe you let the mundane requirements of daily life slip to the side. When Saturn went into Sagittarius this January 2015, then the requirements of practicality became stronger and stronger. There arises now the need to gather and store your nuts for the winter to continue the journey to Home until 2025.


The Pluto/Uranus impact is felt strongest now by those born January 4 to 14. Mars opposite everything the whole month of July and the Moon triggers off powerful forces on July 15. It is a perfect storm that happens only once in life and it is happening now. Some of you will be strapped for resources and in survival mode. Others will find their inner strength and be reborn. You are born to be better than you were at birth and to achieve. You need to be tested for that to happen and now the test is here.


Incredible new ideas and insights are likely for you now. Even an old dog would learn new tricks at this time. Even opening of the Third Eye and clairvoyance are possible at this time. Anything which increases your awareness now is good for you. Subjects such as astrology or human design will help. Techniques such as “Who is In” or Third Eye meditations will help. Digging deeper – deeper into your unconscious to reveal in a new way every experience you have ever repressed in your life will help most of all.

pisces Good time to pay attention to the necessities and practicalities of life. Whatever job you do, enjoy the company of the people you are working with or else that is not the job for you. Lots of different energies happening in the home now. Good to spend some energy in making it a nicer place. Then invite some people over and share some time with your closest friends. Children are a source of joy for you now even more than usual. Maybe spend some time to go by the playground and just watch the fun.

The Yak 47  

The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali IDR Rp 80.000 S$11 HK$50 A$10 €5 licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011...

The Yak 47  

The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali IDR Rp 80.000 S$11 HK$50 A$10 €5 licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011...