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The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali

Volume 09 July/August/September 2011


aryswarung contemporary balinese asian cuisine

coconut king prawns suna cekuh balinese spice

martini bar | wine cellar | degustation menu | cigar lounge

shopping dining..., shopping dining..., shopping...

treasures toko antique

collection from bali & other islands ubud main st.


gallery of gold jewelry

w w w. d e k c o . c o m

Volume Nine Jul/Aug/Sept 2011

The Bud Agustina Ardie, Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds Publisher's pa / sales & marketing Riri Suwito Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Novan Satria The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali

Volume 09 July/August/September 2011

Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Kadek Artana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya, Didakus Nuba


Publisher PT Saka Wahana Cipta Licence

IDR Rp 48.000 S$9 HK$45 €3.50

Cover photo: Tjokorda Gus Kerthyasa.

1.265/09-04/PB/V/99 Advertising enquiries Tel/Fax: (+62 361) 8446341, 743 1804, 743 1805 Email: Canggu Club Tennis Centre, Jl. Pantai Berawa, Banjar Tegal Gundul, Canggu, Bali 80361, Indonesia © PT Saka Wahana Cipta

yPod Bali V.2.0 – The Yak and Bud Magazines' iPhone App featuring the best places to go in Ubud and beyond – is available from the App. Store.

plantation restaurant Seasonal Cuisine...

Immerse yourself in a culinary journey at Plantation Restaurant. Executive Chef, Eelke Plasmeijer (previously of Michelin-starred Vermeer and SHY, Jakar ta) and his culinary team passionately prepare a modern seasonal tasting and a la car te menu. Enjoy the best local ingredients prepared using classic French culinary techniques, and served with a refreshing modern twist. Star t your journey with a fine selection of our signature seasonal cocktails, infused vodkas, araks and syrups – all made in-house from the best produce the season has to offer. Plantation Restaurant, an open Balinese-style restaurant, with a central bar, towering coconut pillars and traditional alang-alang roof, creates an exotic ambience for diners as they feast on stunning views of our natural surroundings.

For reservations, contact: Alila Ubud - Plantation Restaurant T: 0361 975 963 E:

destination wherever.

The Cellardoor, Komplek Dewa Ruci 3 Jl Bypass Ngurah Rai, Kuta Bali, Indonesia T +62(361) 767-422 F +62(361) 768 418

A restful retreat, mistify and excite... Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia Phone : 62-361-970388 Fax : 62-361-970377 Email :

10 12 20 32 36 39 40 47 74 76 86 90 96

Out of the box Bali Is Dead. Long Live Bali! Front up Notables interview Prince Prints eco sense Susi Johnston discourse Green House Effect The LisT Guidezine Goodness those were the days No Shoe Shuffle runaways School's Out


Museum Neka.


Tjok Max.

recycle Clean Earth art Galleries Galore destinations Lakeview Fiction Transit Fields Open mike Boom

BALI is dead. We hear it all the time. It died with the puputan. It died when the first hotel in Denpasar broke ground. It died when Starbucks opened in Ubud. It died with the last bomb. It died… But Bali is not dead. Far from it. Its spirit is strong. Its people still pray, smile, love and live. It is simply overrun – in parts – by its own success as a tourist destination. It needs careful attention and planning. A steady hand on the reins. Sensitive handling of planning issues, waste management and pollution control. A belief in God and gods. Bali needs a leader who can enact a vision agreed upon

Born in Peliatan in 1925, Ibu Rai sold food throughout the 60s, creating an eatery whose food was recommended by many guide books to international travellers. In tribute to his mother’s courage and enterprise, her son Dewa Gede opened a namesake restaurant - Ibu Rai in 1986. Since then Ibu Rai’s has been serving natural and nutritious flavours using the freshest ingredients all served with an artistic flair and friendly service. “We hope you enjoy our food with the Taste of Asian Spices”.

by all. Including right-minded foreigners. Environmentally and spiritually driven consensus politics that make sense for Bali and make sense for the world. We urge bi-partisan, multicultural and indigenous groups to work together. Where you think you can add, then add. Do not complicate. Do not live by a limited agenda. Let consensus be the way. Let’s be effective and universal and follow a path to prosperity and ­– this is the big one – spiritual strength. In this issue we profile some of the names working to help Bali, each in their own way. Tjokorda Gus Kerthyasa, Susi Johnston, David Küper, David Collins...these are some of the people in Bali who love this island and want to help. There are many others, working in government, banjars and ad hoc groups whose efforts require the kind of spiritual strength for which Bali is known around the globe. Together it is possible to protect and nurture this island we love.

Soul Jewelery Shivaloka is a Bali-based jewelry company that has embraced the Rudraksha – India’s powerful holy bead – and along with hand-chosen precious and semiprecious stones has combined them into a powerful, enlightening art piece for the body, some of which are already adorning the bodies of top fashionistas (think Cavalli Kenzo’s Marras and Stephane Roland). Our spiritual, material and health all stand to benefit. Their pieces also confer peace, power and protection. Sublime energy and positive changes are what's promised when your soul connects with a piece designed by Shivaloka – we see no reason to argue with that. These revered seeds and these creative souls are bringing ancient traditions into the Age of Aquarius.

Glamour Stakes Divine Hour has turned up the glamour stakes at Bridges, the west side of the Tjampuhan bridge. With glasses of wine starting at Rp.50,000++ for two fabulous hours – daily from 5pm-7pm – and voila!, you have some very happy punters. Their extensive wine list spans the globe and goes both Old and New World and is beautifully stored in their Divine Wine cellar, where wine-room finger food will delight as the corks soulfully plop out and the gurgling of wine into glass commences. Divine indeed. Tel. 970095 Map ref. H.2

Flemish Fanfare This bijou café is tucked away on Ubud’s quaint Jl. Bisma. An eternal favourite amongst the expat and travelling crew, Artistes is the town’s top place for steak – tenderloin grilled to perfection with a choice of six sauces – and of course Belgian beer. Leefe and Hoegaarden are two top Flemish tipples served icy cold in this pavilioned garden restaurant. Hoegaarden, known around the world as Belgium’s original wheat beer, was first brewed in the Middle Ages and Leefe, named after the Leefe Abbey, was brewing circa 1240AC. Since then these beers have been enjoyed worldwide and are kept in a very cold fridge for your drinking pleasure here in Bali. Café des Artistes is open for lunch and dinner and also serves excellent salads, snacks and Indonesian specialities. Tel. 972706 Map ref. K.5

Threads for the Chic Retreat The inimitable Paul Ropp, having spread his capacious wings across the globe, has returned to his roots to open one more boutique closer to home, on Jl. Raya Sanggingan, between Pita Maha and Uma Ubud hotels. Resort wear that graces the poolsides and boats of the rich and famous in glorious rainbows of colour now grace the windows of this Ubud boutique. Ideal for the warmer tropical climates of the chic retreats of the world. Tel. 974655 Map ref. C.3

Local Motion With the intention of reducing one’s carbon footprint and boosting the local economy, Ary’s Warung, amongst others, are opening the doors and minds of the resident community. As local ingredients options have become more plentiful, of quality and organically consciousness, Ary's Warung has become inspired to shift the menu to locally sourced produce. They are dedicated to the slow food movement by using organic and chemical free ingredients and by supporting local farmers. Recently Ary’s hosted a ‘Slow Food Ubud’ event as a part of their series "Around Town", in support of said organization whilst introducing small bites of Ary's locally-inspired canapés and cocktails. A popular example of this inspired movement is their virgin wheatgrass mojito, a refreshing and revitalizing way to cool off and liven up to further your Ubud explorations. Their Lunch & Dinner tasting menus are an excellent opportunity to explore the inspired menu, which as mentioned supports serving up local ingredients. The positive ripple effect that “Buying Bali” can have on this island’s highly dedicated agricultural community is something we should all welcome. Bring it on! Tel. 975053 Map ref. I.7

Revamped Rafting When Bali Adventure Tours do something they do it to the max. When they decided to open the Elephant Safari Park they opened, according to the late Steve Irwin, "the best Elephant Park in the world". Now they have revamped, renovated, and in fact totally relocated their white water rafting concern – Bali Adventure Rafting. Moving the starting point higher upstream for more exclusivity and rafting fun, Nigel and Yanie Mason have developed a state-of-the-art rafting centre with safer access to and from the river banks with restaurant complex and resting facilities, making a day on the river not only one ‘not to be forgotten’ but one to be repeated again and again. Tel. 721480 Map. Ref. C.3

Culture Nesting Warung Kopi is ARMA’s (Agung Rai Museum of Art) recently renovated gem of a coffee parlour. Overlooking Bali’s beautiful rice paddies and ARMA’s extensive landscaped tropical gardens, order a fair trade coffee and a wickedly good chocolate brownie or muffin. The carrot cake and ‘lapis’, Indonesia’s layered cake, also come in as hot favourites. So after a spot of culture-vulturing around the museum or choosing one of their fabulous courses, workshops or programmes, Warung Kopi is an excellent place to unwind and leaf through up one of their excellent books. If you must get on line WiFi is available. Tel.976659 Map ref. W.10

Parfum de Bali Endorsed by none other than Nena Thurman, Uma’s mother, Bali Temple Flowers is Bali’s first internationally acclaimed perfume. Mary Muryn international author, expert in all things holistic – fell in love with Bali quite a few moons ago and has created the unique fragrance of a Bali temple when in full ceremony: think incense, frangipani, cempaka et al. This unique and mindenhancing fragrance is now available for us all to share and wear. Botanical essences taken from flowers used by the Balinese in their offerings to the gods have been extracted and distilled and, in a well-known New York perfumery, formulated into Bali Temple Flowers. Totally organic, the heavenly scent also balances body, mind and spirit and is said to promote prosperity and romance. Available in 50ml, eau de parfum and a very convenient roll on eau de parfum, all beautifully and organically gift-wrapped.

One on One Como Shambhala’s new addition to health comes in the guise of Krista Haynes, a registered dietician (University of Texas), who loves to keep us on our toes when it comes to diet and fitness. Working one-on-one with guests, Krista will tailormake a health and wellness plan. Dietary counseling, preventative nutritional education combined with a personal approach to cleansing and rejuvenation fit comfortably under her health umbrella.


Prayers for Tibet, by Tjokorda Gus Kerthyasa.

Tjokorda Gus Kerthyasa grew up a foreigner in a foreign land among a people uneducated about his royal heritage. Here the prince of Ubud talks to Andrew Hall about life on the wrong side of the temple wall, and how photography became his outlet.

The young man sitting across the table is handsome, with cropped hair, dressed in shorts and a t-shirt, and speaks with a noticeable Australian accent. He is Tjokorda Gus “Max” Kerthyasa – a Balinese prince from the Ubud royal family. He says we can call him Max. Born in Sydney, Australia, in 1980, Max is the son of Tjokorda Raka Kerthyasa from Ubud and Australian-born Asri Kerthyasa (formerly Jane Gillesepie). His primary education took place at a local state school in the Sydney suburb of Chatswood. “When I was growing up I always knew I was different to the Continued on Page 27.


Event Royal, by Tjokorda Gus Kerthyasa.


Blessing, by Tjokorda Gus Kerthyasa.

interview art

Tibet in transit, by Tjokorda Gus Kerthyasa.


Continued from Page 21.

other kids. Because my skin was brown and the other Australian kids were white. Also because, of course, my father is Balinese and he always said to us that Bali is our home,” Max says. “Sometimes when I was very young I was made fun of by other kids because of my name. Kids used to call me chuckles and curry asshole. And no one, even the teachers, could say my name properly.” Max says he and his brother sometimes got a bit fed up with racist taunts and felt obliged to resort to a time-honoured method of conflict resolution – fisticuffs. Listening to this part of his story I groan inwardly because my country, then, and remains today, quite bigoted on the whole – as anyone who has followed the so-called “immigration debate” over the past few years might have gleaned. I recall my own school years when I was called things like “wog” and “gypo” simply because my father happened to work in Saudi Arabia. And I’m a white fella. But Max and his brother hatched a cunning plan: “My brother and I, when I was six, decided to give ourselves western names,” he says. “I chose Max, because it was the 80’s and (the film) Mad Max was cool. “Also I used to like the book Max and the Wild Things. “Still to this day many of my friends call me Max but Balinese use my real name.” Bali was never far away, however, because Tjokorda Raka was curator of the Indonesian section of the Sydney Museum. He formed a gamelan orchestra with members of the city’s Balinese community. “I was always going along and joining in, doing dance performances with my dad and playing in the gamelan. So Bali

Continued on Page 30.



Sun worship, by Tjokorda Gus Kerthyasa.

interview Continued from Page 27.

was always a close part of me growing up,” Max says. In addition to participating in Balinese culture in Sydney, the family spent the Christmas holidays on Bali. And when he was a seventh grader Max spent a year on the island. Back in Chatswood in high school Max discovered photography – something that was to influence his life after leaving school. “In my family there are a lot of people interested in photography – my uncle was a very keen amateur in the '80s and had a darkroom under my grandmother's place,” he says. “My father, who is an artist, also liked to take photos and had an old Nikon FE2 which I still have. When I was very young I used to ask him how to use it. “When I was at Chatswood I took photography for a year before moving back to Bali and learnt about pinhole cameras and some darkroom processing.” But he also did some work experience at a family friend’s photographic studio where, he says, he was impressed with the whole feel of the place – and especially with the “beautiful models” who came to be photographed. The latter impression obviously stuck because he ended up marrying Indonesian model, actress and film-maker, Happy Salma. At 17 Max moved to Bali and decided on a career on cruise ships in the Mediterranean. He bought himself an SLR camera and off he went. . .for two months. But during that time he took many pictures before being “disembarked” for giving one of the ship’s officers a good belting for behaving in a threatening manner. Nice one. Returning to Indonesia, people were not only excited by Max’s pugilistic skills but also his burgeoning talent as a photographer. His family encouraged him to pursue photography as a profession – so it was back to Sydney for a two-year course at the KVC Institute of Technology, during which he also worked as a freelance assistant for family friend and photographer, Geoff Howden. “He did a lot of large format real estate work and I learnt a lot from him over the years. The magic of large format transparencies really gave me an awe for professional photography and it's sad that film has now become outdated,” Max says. After graduating Max bought himself a photographic processing studio in Sydney that he ran until 2005, but as digital photography and Photoshop gradually replaced film, demand declined and he was forced to shut up shop. He embarked on a nine-month trip through Asia. “A highlight would definitely be Tibet, which was a perilous journey but I took many great photos of places that without a doubt will succumb to globalization very soon,” he says.

“India was also a place that is colorful and chaotic but is an awesome place to photograph. “In the streets there are so many things going on which pushed me to be creative. “I was nearly robbed a few times but maybe out of luck and good karma I got home (to Bali) with all my gear, all my film.” After returning from his journey Max had a solo exhibition of his work in Jakarta and has participated in photographic exhibitions in Ubud. He continues to work as a freelance commercial photographer as well as helping his mother in running the Biku restaurant in Seminyak. As an image-maker and as a Balinese, I asked Max for his perspective on changes he has noticed on the island after returning to live permanently: “Since moving back I have noticed so many changes in Bali – the most rapid started a few years after the (Sari Club) bomb when opportunistic investors started buying up Bali,” he says. “Now they are selling it off again for crazy prices and the rice fields Bali is famous for are slowly disappearing. “More and more people are looking at Bali as a good cheap place to live and it’s getting overcrowded – with terrible infrastructure and minimal town planning. “If something isn’t done about it the tourists are going stop coming. With the ocean getting full of bacteria and parasites, the roads in chaos and the rice fields gone, what are they going to want to come for? “I just hope the boom slows down so the government can get its act together and put some proper guidelines in place to save Bali’s beauty.” Max is a surfer and says another major problem facing the island and its marine environment is the amount of waste washed into the sea from rivers. He’d like to see a concerted education campaign aimed at stopping people from dumping waste into the island’s waterways – and a more committed approach from Bali’s regulatory authorities in deploying resources to developing creative solutions for waste management. In addition to his activities related to environmental conservation, Max has an abiding interest in the preservation of Balinese culture. “Because I was brought up in Australia there’s a lot I’m still learning about Balinese rituals,” he says. “Many young Balinese these days don’t know the details of the rituals and ceremonies but I hope they can carry through to future generations. “I enjoy learning about my culture by participating in ceremonial life and my family’s cultural responsibilities. . . but I know I still have a lot to learn.”

Tjokorda Gus Kerthyasa.

Eco sense

Bali EcoWiki founder Susi Johnston.

Susi Johnston is bringing her considerable talents and energy to an initiative to clean up bali. By Andrew Hall.

Susi Johnston isn’t into “stuff” – especially the stuff that sticks and accumulates and has to be carted around. She’s definitely not into the stuff that people dump into Bali’s waterways that ends up in the sea and on the island’s beaches. Susi, who grew up around Seattle, Washington, is an art historian, “antiquaire”, and writer. She’s lived on Bali for 16 years and in Ubud for the past seven, where she runs Macan Tidur – a business that trades in Indonesian textiles and other artifacts. But don’t accuse her of being a collector: “I'm an anti-collector. I've never collected anything, and I'm allergic to accumulation of "stuff". Ask anyone who knows me. I lose stuff all the time. I'm famous for it,” she says. “In 1995 I had a five-bedroom house, car, antiques, art, sports gear, tools, mountains of clothes, the works. In six months I reduced my worldly possessions to just one cubic meter and swore off stuff-gathering for good. “Of course, the problem was I love art, beauty, and things that are well-made. “Can you be a connoisseur without actually collecting the stuff? If you're an enlightened being, you probably can. As for the rest of us, it's pretty tough. If you love something, you appreciate it and are moved by it, you feel you want to have it. Look hard at that impulse, and what you'll find is that it's not really about ownership, it's simply about finding a way to engage and interact with the object of your appreciation.” Susi says one way to participate in this interaction is to be a conduit for the objects that attract . . . “. . . to draw them near you in a non-permanent way, and then share them, pass them on,” she says. “Trying that, I suppose, is what turned me into an antiquaire - a dealer. “I can interact in a meaningful way with objects of beauty, and at the same time I avoid being an owner, a collector, an accumulator of stuff. It's a sneaky way of having my cake and eating it too.” Susi laments that she doesn’t travel throughout the

ECO sense

archipelago as much these days to source goods for Macan Tidur, but speaks with passion about how much she enjoys the experience when the opportunity arises. One memorable trip was attending a royal ceremony on the island of Sumba. “My husband, Bruno, and I went to Sumba for the entombment of a raja, and slept in the house of ghosts – the ceremonial house of ancestors in the village of Rende – as guests of the rajas. Talk about immersion! All night they were trancing and chanting and striking gongs. You don't dream in a situation like that, you hallucinate,” she says. “All the betel chew probably helps. It was a magical trip.” But there are things closer to home to which Susi is devoting her considerable talents and energy – namely, trying to create and maintain an initiative to clean up the island. During her time here she has witnessed many changes that affect Bali in general and in Ubud in particular – some of which are positive, but many of which are detrimental to the environment and society. “The leaders of Ubud have lost their way,” she says. “There are two reasons for this: one is their lack of solidarity – they haven't been able to build a common mission, or mutual trust. They are suspicious of each other, and can't sit down at one table to agree on the trade-offs that are always necessary in order to build a sound society. “The second reason is their lack of courage. It takes courage to oppose things you know are wrong, to stick your neck out, to truly lead. . .so what we have now is an Ubud created by default. “It's sad. But there's a glimmer of hope in the younger generation, the people in their 20s and 30s now, who do actually have the capability, I think, to get Ubud back on track. But only, of course, if they can create some real solidarity, and mutual trust, and muster the courage to actually lead.” Leading by example is one way to solve problems that need to be solved. So one of Susi’s pet projects is beginning the process of implementing programmes of waste management, and facilitating an educational/resource referral system designed to make Bali a cleaner, safer, more aesthetic environment for those who live here and come to visit. “I'm involved right now in a pilot project for community management of solid waste,” she says. “We're starting with the shoreline in Canggu, a two-kilometer stretch of beach – in cooperation with the local surf community, the town of Canggu, EcoBali and the Rotary Club, we're putting together trash management tools and testing them. “The basics elements are a salaried team of six local people including a team manager, proper waste bins correctly located, collection and recycling by EcoBali, and funding for the pilot period from Rotary.” A three-month trial period is in process – at the end of which important information will be gathered about costings, effectiveness of the “tools” being applied to problem solving, and ways and means of progressing the ideas and mechanisms that are being tested for future application to promoting and enacting

a cleaner, safer environment. “The goal, of course, is to have no trash on the beaches in the first place,” Susi says. “Some of us are working toward design and deployment of "trash booms" in the river mouths to catch the trash before it gets to the sea, and to the beaches. “Good trash boom designs have been developed in many places in the world over a period of three decades. They can be really effective, and they give us all a chance to see what kinds of trash are coming (and) from where. “Quite a large number of organisations and individuals are working on community education and other projects to deal with rubbish problems at their source.” . . . which brings us to a point where our readers can find out for themselves – in detail – about the range of initiatives happening on the island. . .an information hub called The Bali EcoWiki, which Susi Johnston is very much a part of: “It's an online searchable database of the entities and organisations actively addressing environmental matters in Bali,” she says. “There are hundreds of organisations, individuals, enterprises and agencies doing stuff, but there's no coordination among them! “They're like bees in a bell jar. No hive structure. It's insanely ineffective. So many resources, so much intelligence, energy and investment. “And it's not accomplishing much at all. People are reinventing wheels all over the place, when there's no need, and no time, to do that.” Susi says the website has been set up to be “an orderly system for capturing user-generated content, which is available for use by anybody, anywhere, free, with no affiliations to any specific organisation or interest, and no commercial content.” And it's bilingual. Asked to sum up, Susi says: “Certainly, the only way to eradicate the global trash plague, however, is to REDUCE use of things that are future-trash.” “Producing tomorrow's trash is a recipe for disaster. But that's what most consumer goods are these days - tomorrow's trash. “I hope and pray that we can experience another crytallisation process – this time not just about what we do with our waste, but about how ridiculous it is to produce so much waste in the first place. Let's make less stuff, use less stuff, and live lives of higher quality. “That gets me right back to my stuff-allergy. It's scary how difficult it is to keep stuff from "sticking to you" in our world. “No matter what you do or where you go, stuff just seems to glom onto you. I'm feeling very conscious of that at the moment.”

Susi: Cleaning up our act.


Desa Karasan on the outskirts of Ubud is a green villa project born of environmental aspiration, writes Drew Corridore.

Some frog once said: “It aint easy being green.” But according to Ubud expat, David Collins, it can be if you think about it a bit and put your energy into planning and design; use the right materials in a sensible way (to minimise wastage); and keep structural footprints versus overall land area to a minimum. David grew up around the Washington DC area in America and was drawn to design – gaining a degree in woodworking and furniture design. He moved on to building larger structures and ended up in Florida building “tropical houses” which he describes, – in the context of that place – as “large air conditioned boxes”. In 2005 David decided on a sea change and moved to Bali, not only for a different lifestyle, but also to see if he could develop his instincts for a more sensitive approach to a building process more in tune with the surrounding environment. One of the initial things that inspired him after engaging in his first building experience on Bali (in the south of the island) was the amount of waste that had to be disposed of: “ . . . at the end of the day we hauled out of that project one small pickup full of trash,” he says. “Everything else had been either carted off by the locals or, if it was inert, buried in the ground. “I would haul twenty dumpsters – twenty dumpsters - of trash when I built a sizeable house in Florida. “It got me started on a bit of soul-searching.” David conducted extensive searches of the internet and discovered an obscure site in California that got him thinking: “This guy was (all about) commonsense green design,” David says. Finding the site answered many of the questions he had about how to build, and after moving to the Ubud area he decided to put theory into practice. “So I’m going back to thinking small is beautiful . . . and now I’ve got this system and it’s combination of design and thought and intent,” he says. “It really boils down to building something small – that addresses the issue of waste before, during and after – and smart. “Take advantage of things (materials and natural space) that are at hand.

“And – that for traditionalists, as I really am – do something really sweet and timeless.” David says the first rule in green building is “make it count” or don’t waste your time, because: “any way you look at it (building) is a destructive process”. To that end, David purchased a parcel of land on the border of Junjungan village – close to Ubud central, but far enough away to facilitate a bucolic experience – and has embarked on creating a small, green community there (six houses in total when finished). The property (Desa Kerasan) is nestled in a small valley (away from the main road) with extraordinary views that are amplified by the peaceful sounds of a burbling brook that forms one of the property’ boundaries.. “I want to do something classic . . . that resonates with people,” he says. The first house is complete and can aptly be described as simple but elegant. The materials used in the construction are of high quality that have, obviously, been put together with extreme care and attention. All wooden construction elements (and accent pieces) in the house are recycled teak. Light fittings are custom made from brass and steel. There is no air conditioning but it’s not necessary because the house breathes with the zephyrs wafting through – orientation to nature’s rhythms being paramount to green design. Landscaping on the property is done with a flair that blends with the surrounding rice fields and other topographical features. While the house is by no means large it possesses an open and airy feel, and the rooms within are comfortable and have excellent outlooks – which adds to a sense of spaciousness. David is opposed to what he regards as the “mish-mash of modernistic design” that has overtaken contemporary developments in other places on the island. Ideally, he says, building footprints should only occupy about 40 per cent of the available space – thereby allowing the natural environment to become an integral part of the living experience.

Green makes sense, says David Collins.


July, August, September 2011

The definitive guide to our thoughts, tastes and tributes to Ubud and surrounds.

Birds & Bees • Out & About • Homestays • Festivals • Galleries • Eco

Illustrations in The List by Captain Freddie.

Footloose and fancy-free, VM’s hardly ever all at sea.

I never wear shoes. What, never? No, never! What, never? Hardly ever! Yes, I’m forced to admit that I reluctantly incline to be shod on occasion. Very rare and most auspicious occasion bien entendu. Since I was supposed to sup with the Governor the other night – hell’s bells! – I thought I’d better smarten up a bit and donned a pair of what are known as Sledgers – it actually says so on a plaque glued adjacent to the lace grummets. Really rather sickening. If you turn the things over, you’ll note the name again accompanied by the legend – SOLE MADE IN FRANCE. Ah so! God

knows where the rest comes from – some sweat shop in China or Java, or maybe Madagascar. I think I must have nicked them from a chum of mine in the land of the frog eaters. Sacré bleu! In the event HE failed to materialize, and I had to make do with his secretary. Absolute charmer I must say, so it was not altogether a waste of my time. But – SHOES – I ask you! Aside from any other consideration, if you wish to play footsie, you’re better off without them. The only other occasion on which I’ve worn shoes recently was when I was obliged to board an aeroplane. Of

course, once you’re on the bloody thing, you divest yourself of these accursed accoutrements instantly. Airports render footwear necessary. So do hospitals, shopping malls, and banks; seething hotbeds of infestation. Location has a lot to do with it obviously. I mean you don’t go wandering around Denpasar or London Town unshod. Not on a regular basis anyhow. Material cause for verrucae or confrontation with the local constabulary. More likely in London the latter. Whilst on home leave there last summer, I recall walking up the road one Continued on Page 42.

the list

Alphabetical musings, meanderings and more from The Bud team...

A ADVENTURE Bali Adventure Tours Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480. Map Ref: C.2 (Rafting) Long-established Bali adventure tours operator with activities ranging from river kayaking, white water rafting, jungle trekking and mountain cycling, as well as the Bali Elephant Safari Park at Taro (see entry under Wildlife). Their white water rafting has been relocated further upstream, to enjoy a longer and more exclusive stretch of water with the facilities and access being better bar none not only in Indonesia and Asia, possibly the best white water rafting concern in the world! Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Jl. Singapadu, Batu Bulan. Tel: 0361-299352. With over 1,000 birds and 250 different species, walk through an avian rainforest, catch a film at the 4D avian theatre and top that off with a reptilian experience of dragon proportions at Rimba Reptil. Bali Bird Walks Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975009. Join Su-made (and if you’re lucky the one-and-only Victor Mason) on a well-informed and delightful bird walk around the Campuhan hills. Sobek Bina Utama Jl. Raya Tebongkang No. 33. Tel: 0361-287059. Established in 1989, Sobek Bina Utama was the first adventure tour company of its kind on the island and continues to offer excellent rafting, cycling and eco trail tours in Bali.

Tel: 0361- 973508 Map Ref: C.3 With a 15th century reclining Bhudda marble statue as the ‘piece d resistance’ the artefacts, antiques and relics at The Shop have been knowledgeably hand-sourced from around the region.

ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS 3 Brothers + 1 Jl. Raya Kedewatan. Tel: 0813 3874 5650. The Balinese artist family of Nyoman Budiarta, Ketut Budiarsa, Wayan Piadnya and Made Budiana, stands together as an inspiring lesson in the power of art to heal and overcome limitations.


Adi`s Art Studio & Gallery. Jl. Bisma 102. Tel: 0361-977104. Featuring an eclectic mix of sculptures, paintings and readymade objets d’art by artist Adi Bachmann and a number of talented Balinese artists.

Gallery Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur. com Map Ref: L.7 Respected dealer in tribal art, antiquities, ornaments and texiles, Macan Tidur is often cited as ‘the best shop in Bali’. Clients include collectors, architects, hotels and museums.

Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. One of the most distinguished museums in Bali, ARMA exhibits work by many of the island’s celebrated names including Spies, Bonnet, Hofker and Affandi. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, except holidays. Map Ref: X.10

Kusia Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan No. 99X. Tel: 0361-973113. Fascinating and longestablished shop dealing with Balinese cultural artifacts. The Shop Sayan Jl. Raya Sayan No. 52, Br Kutuh

ARAK Noun: arrack |arak; arak| |arak| |arøk| |arak| (also arak). An alcoholic liquor typically distilled from the sap of the coconut palm or from rice. Clear and colourless with a sharp biting taste, arak in Bali is a distillation of tuak, produced by fermenting the sap of the flower bud of any of a number of species of palm. Origin early 17th cent.: from Arabic araq ‘sweat’, from the phrase arak altamr, denoting an alcoholic spirit made from dates.

Agung Rai Fine Art Gallery Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975449, 974562. Map Ref: U.13 Selected works of fine art picked by owner Agung Rai for what he describes as a “spiritual connection he feels between a painting and

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morning to my favourite breakfast caff, situated in a salubrious W6 suburb. It was a heavenly day, front gardens a blaze of blooms, avenue of splendid planes in full leaf, pedestrians in their shirtsleeves, birds singing. Out of the corner of my eye I beheld a bobby approaching. And here, I should perhaps explain, my attire consisted of sarong and shirt with collar and cuffs. No shoes of course, but dammit all, we’re not in Piccadilly or The Strand. I’ve only a few yards to go, and besides, the pavements are relatively unpolluted: there’s no dog shit to dodge nowadays. The bobby hailed me. “Excuse me, sir, are you feeling all right?” He eyed me up and down searchingly. “I feel perfectly fine,” I replied. “Why do you ask?” “Well sir, you’re not wearing any shoes.” “I never wear shoes.” “Oh, I see. Well, can you tell me where you’re going, sir?” “Yes, I’m on my way to breakfast.” “Very well sir. Please do take care.” “I will indeed, and I appreciate your concern. Thank you.” Okay, not so many chaps wandering around this neighbourhood unshod and wearing shirt and sarong. I suppose I should be glad that someone takes an interest in my welfare. Over full on English brecker I reflected on the PC’s reasonableness. After all, there are an awful lot of loonies at large over there. But let me ask you one thing. Who wears shoes these days? Proper shoes I mean. The fact of the matter is that you seldom see anyone anywhere sporting a decent pair. If it isn’t sandals or flipflops, it’s slippers or slipshod loafers. Then what are those other appalling apologies for brothel-creepers or beetle-crushers that are universally adopted by the hoi polloi in this day and age? Commonly referred to, I’m told, as trainers. Training for what,

one might enquire – PC or MP or pander? You’ve seen the things: even possibly own a pair – Gordelpus! They come in all shapes and shades: pansy combinations of pastel hues, with brand logos embellished, and built-in ankle supports. Have you the least inkling of the havoc they wreak with your plates? Try Zola Budd, or that marvellous Abyssinian man whom no one could breast on the marathon. Pheidippides, the Athenian

shoemaker in Northampton. Two lasts precisely. And, fortunately for my pocket, I was able to maintain the tradition in Hong Kong, where custom-built clodhoppers were the norm. And when my father died, I also inherited his shoes – beautiful shoes that fit me perfectly and are maintained by me to this very day. I seldom wear them, but you could say that, on certain very special occasions, I continue to follow in my father’s footsteps quite literally.

messenger who was the original marathoner (BC 490), had nothing on his feet; neither did Charles Waterton (17821865), the English squire, naturalist, adventurer and author of Wanderings in South America; nor any tribal inhabitant of the tropical forest for that matter. When I was at school, we wore gym shoes or plimsolls, strictly for sporting events. In subsequent years, I tended to toe the line as a businessman, wearing shoes about town and in the office. Real shoes. And here it behooves me to make an admission. I have funny feet, inherited from my father, that are of unequal size. He always had the most beautiful shoes, modelled on a last that was kept by a

----------------------------Inevitably comes a postscript. Whilst running yesterday (May 28th) with the Hash House Harriers – see The Bud Volume 8 – I got a nasty splinter under the nail of my big toe. That’ll learn me... but nothing that a pair of pincers and Condy’s Crystals (PK to you) can’t sort out. C’est la vie! Let us close with a limerick – There was an old man with no shoes Who imbibed a whole bottle of booze When he came over queer And then leapt off a pier It was clear he had little to lose. ------------------------------

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himself”. Open daily from 9am to 6pm. Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975502. Dedicated to the life and work of the late Filippino artist

international and local artists featuring contemporary art, paintings, performance, installations and sculptures. Genta Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No1. Tel: 0361-978272. gentagallery

new and creative art to the visual forefront of Ubud’s gallery walls. Han Snel Gallery Jl Kajeng. Tel: 0361 975 699, 974 271 . Fax: 0361 975 643 View the works of one of

high-speed photography of fluids in motion. The timefreezing method allows you to see hidden wonders of the natural world. Think of it as a visual spa, in a modern and elegant gallery setting. Open daily from 9am to 10pm. Free entry. Komaneka Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-976090. Map Ref: P.7 Komaneka Fine Art Gallery features unique work by young Indonesian and overseas artists with ‘vision’ and an accent on kontemporer. It was built in 1996 with the aim of sharing the experience of living with art. Young contemporary artists exhibit their canvases and installations to those who stay at the resort and those who pop in or walk by the gallery. Keep an eye out for it as you walk towards Ubud Palace on the right-hand side of Monkey Forest road.

Antonio Blanco (and curated by his artistic son Mario), this intriguing museum space includes the artist’s original studio, gardens, aviaries and family temple. Open daily from 9am to 5pm. Gaya ArtSpace Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-979252. High concept space offering major exhibitions by both

International art collectors, painters, performers and travellers alike acclaim Genta’s fine art collection. Part of the Museum Rudana art empire. Hanna Art Space Jl Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-978216. With an accent on artists from Surabaya, Hanna Art Space intends to uncover the ‘underdog’ of art by bringing

Indonesia’s most celebrated foreign artists...Han Snel., lovingly run by his widow Siti. The Han Snel Gallery is located in the grounds of the bungalow complex opened by the artist. Infinity Gallery Upper Monkey Forest Road Tel: 0361-972500 Infinity Gallery displays "Liquid Art", which is ultra

Museum Neka Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975074. One of Ubud’s oldest and best established galleries, Neka Museum features all the greats from Ubud’s artworld in a traditional Balinese setting with a fabulous ravine view. Open daily 8am to 5pm except holidays. Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975136.

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BANJAR Noun ( pl. -jar) Balinese neighbourhood association that plans, organises and executes the great majority of activities that make up Balinese life. Every Balinese belongs to a banjar, which has from one hundred to several hundred members. Each banjar has a meeting hall, the bale banjar, which is always divided into three parts: the banjar temple, the secular meeting place, and the kitchen. The death of any member of a banjar makes it obligatory for all male members of the banjar to show up immediately, spend every night at the house of the deceased, prepare various temporary structures for the death ceremonies and burial, wash the body, carry it to the cemetery and help with the burial. Banjars often have gotong royong, or work gangs, called upon to repair the bale banjar, clean the streets, build a road or plant trees. Bali’s first museum features exquisite examples of Balinese art styles in drawing, painting and wood carving. Museum Puri Lukisan was established in 1954 and boasts among its past curators the artist Rudolf Bonnet. Open daily 8am to 4pm except holidays. Museum Rudana Jln. Cok Rai Pudak no.44 Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975779. Museum Rudana boasts an excellent collection of Balinese and other Indonesian fine arts by the likes of I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Affandi, Supono and Antonio Blanco in an elaborate new gallery that stands in its own grounds. Open Mon-Sat 9am to 5pm and on Sundays from midday to 5pm. Nyoman Sumerta Fine Art Gallery Banjar Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975267. Highlights the richness of ideas and imagination of Indonesian artists with an emphasis on local Balinese painting.

Oracle Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978611. Map Ref: B.4 The gallery of Greek sculptor and Ubud resident Filippos, Oracle is an artist’s dreamscape inspired by the creative imaginings of one of Ubud’s most flamboyant sculptors. Pranoto’s Art Gallery Jl. Tirta Tawar No. 34, Kutuh Kelod. Tel: 0361-970827. Pranoto’s Art Gallery is a lively, active place in the heart of the Bali
arts community. Hosts life-drawing model sessions, exhibitions and a
large fine art collection of paintings by Indonesian and international artists. Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women Jl. Sriwidari 2B. Tel: 0361-975485. Seniwati supports and showcases more than 70 female artists with a wide variety of styles and also houses a shop for and about

women, from where you can buy crafts, some of them by artists who exhibit in the gallery. Sika Contemporary Art Gallery Jln. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975727/975084. Artist curator I. Wayan Sika and his contemporaries of the Sanggar Dewata Artist Association, seek to push the visual arts envelope at this gallery, which condemns modem commercial art as “too sweet, like candy”. Symon Studios Jl. Raya Campuhan. A Campuhan landmark for over a quarter century, Symon’s somewhat rakish Ubud Studio is the original Art Zoo. The artist has lived in Bali since 1978 and is best known for his bold portraits of sensual young Balinese men. Tanah Tho Jl. Raya Lodtunduh. Tel: 981 482 Owned and curated by Dewa Gede Putrawan, owner of the popular Ibu Rai Restaurant, Tanah Toh Art Studio was

built with passion and with the aim of bringing art enthusiasts and artists into a single community. The gallery showcases pieces of great energy, spirit and highlight the dynamic relationship between the artist and the canvas. TonyRaka Art Gallery Jln. Raya Mas No. 86. Tel: 0361-7816785. One of Ubud’s prominent art galleries – and art characters – is Tony Raka. Respected by artists and collectors alike, he is an enthusiastic promoter of contemporary Balinese and Indonesian art. Tony Raka’s is a gallery for people who like the questions art poses. Apart from a large modern building where the permanent collection hangs, there is a vast Balinese pavilion for temporary exhibitions and a new exhibition building. Both the gallery and the gardens, festooned with orchids, are well worth a visit. W. Gallery Jl.Bisma #3. Tel: 0361-977978. Art for conservation. The W. Gallery was established in July 2007 as an effort to raise money for conservation through artwork. The gallery hosts local Balinese artists who have committed to donating a percentage of every sale to support the work of FNPF.


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BARS Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. Map Ref: I.7 Since its lavish revamp from a humble eatery to a posh bar and dining experience fitting the likes of Beverly Hills, Ary’s Warung has been the place to be seen in central Ubud. The menu is modAustralian inspired – that is, fresh local organic produce, the best of meats, and simple preparation. Food aside, this is also a great bar with an openplan atmosphere and tasteful design. The service, food and drinks are all good – their Virgin Wheatgrass Mojito has to be the best pick-me-up of all time - it’s also a great meeting point in the centre of Ubud, anytime of the day. Bar Luna Jl. Gootama Tel: 0361-971832 Map Ref: L8 Wander down (or up) one of Ubud's quaintest streets and drop into Bar Luna for an exotic breakfast or a very chilled glass of wine. Definitely one of our favourite secret hangouts. Literary Evenings are a educationalmust on the last Thursdays of every month. Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095 Map Ref: H2 Set on a ravine of the Oos

River this new trendy threetiered cafe cum wine bar cum restaurant is set to rock its riverside terraces. Their Divine Wine Cellar stocks Old and New World wines and hosts Divine Hour from 5-7pm every day with a glasses of wine starting from 50++. There is a cute bites menu as well as a full on a la carte. A private dining room and bottle shop complete this all-in-one venue of Ubudosity! Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X.

Map Ref: Q.6 One of the most popular drop-in and come-as-youplease restaurant bars in Ubud. Based at the bottom of the Monkey Forest hill it is perfectly placed to quench that thirst before the stroll up the three in one. Flava Lounge Jl. Pengosekan. Tel. 0361-972953. Young, hip and urban (or as urban as one can be in Ubud) yet with a holistic feel. Comfy

all-comers with tales from his past. Located half way down Jalan Kajeng on the left. Jati Bar The Four Seasons Sayan Jl. Raya Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-977577. sayan Sophistication is the name of the game here (unsurprisingly given the Four Seasons brand). Perched atop the breathtaking Sayan Ridge, the vibe is mystically romantic. World-class views and flavours. Jazz Café Jl. Sukma # 2, Tebesaya. Tel: 0361-976594. Map Ref: M12 A true Ubud classic recently refurbished to combine air con comfort and outdoor pavilion seating, that hosts local and international jazz stars, along with great bar snacks and full menu. Live music nightly except Mondays, 7.30pm until 10.30pm.

Tel: 0361-972706 . Map Ref: K4 Pop in anytime, after 10.30 in the morning, for mocktails or cocktails, Smirnoff or Sambucca. Cafe des Artistes also has an extensive wine list and is open until midnight. One of Ubud’s popular yet quietly romantic eating and drinking venues, now serving original Belgium beer. Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975354.

seating, shisha pipes and free WiFi that mixes well with the juices, the cocktails and café style menu. Han Snel Restaurant & Bar Jl. Kajeng. Tel: 0361 8410505 www.hansnelrestaurantcom A horseshoe-shaped counter here gives the bar and restaurant at Han Snel Gallery a distinctly convivial's easy to imagine the late artist Han Snel himself sitting here drinking Bintang and regaling

Mozaic – The Lounge Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 Map ref: B.3 A welcome addition to Mozaic’s award-winning restaurant oasis, The Lounge offers sublime cocktails and jazzy ambience. A taste of the future with excellence on all levels, this is a discerning and stylish atmosphere with a range of drinks fitting for one of Bali’s best fine dining spots

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CALENDARS: To the outsider, the Balinese calendar of worship can appear startlingly complex, comprising, as it does, both a lunar calendar – each month starting on the day after a new moon, with the full moon occurring in the middle – and a 210day ritual cycle. The lunar calendar is based on that used in parts of India and numbered from the founding of the Indian Saka Dynasty in AD 78, so that the year 1900 in Bali began in 1979. The 210-day pawukon cycle is indigenous to Bali, however, and differs from other calendars in that its dates are not measured as years, perhaps because it has its roots in the growing period for rice. The pawukon cycle is subdivided yet again into a number of shorter cycles, which run concurrently. These comprise a number of three, five and seven day “weeks” which have no correlation to conventional time but are used to determine holy days. Each day is said to have its own god, constellation and omen indicating good or bad times for activities ranging from construction to cremation. (see Mozaic’s entry under Restaurants). There’s also a piano in the corner, should you feel like getting on the ivories, but be warned – the cocktails are quality standard and likely to promote overexuberance.

Terazzo Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-978941. A stylish and somewhat famous spot in town for savvy cocktails with superb fingerfood and full menu. Great music and atmosphere.

Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggingan, opposite Neka Museum. Tel: 0361-977547. Another longtime Ubud institution – the marriage of Ubud and New York sensibilities à la Brian and Nuri – Naughty Nuri’s serves mean, brimming Martinis, gargantuan Bloody Mary’s and home-cooked food, all in an open, road-side grille. Famous for its ribs (See entry under Restaurants).

Warung Kopi @Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. Views of rice paddy fields and landscaped gardens over a cup of coffee, a delicious brownie and a good book. There is nothing better. One of Ubud's best cafe hangouts. WiFi is supplied - if you must, but we suggest getting off your Faceboook and enjoying the breezes and the view or one of the many workshops or courses on offer.

Ozigo Jl. Sanggingan. Next to Nuri’s Nacho Mama. www.ozigobarubud.blogspot. com When you’re pissed enough on Brian’s Martinis, join the fun-loving mix of great live cover bands and DJs as they lead you in to the late night! Suspiciously large and colourful drinks.

BOOK SHOPS Ganesha Book Shop Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-970320. A veritable treasure chest of second-hand books and beautiful weighty ones of the coffee table variety. You can also find magazines,

bestsellers and postcards here. Periplus Jl. Raya Ubud and Monkey Forest Rd. Ubiquitous chain bookstorecum-cafe stocking hundreds of titles on Bali and beyond. Buy your take-home copy of The Bud and The Yak here. Boutiques Anjaly Jl. Dewi Sita. Tel: 0361-971599 Map Ref. M.9 Born out of gratitude, inspired by yoga and a tribute to being green, Anjaly (Sanskrit for thankfulness) is a forwardthinking clothing brand dedicated to freedom. With the focus on ‘you’, the people at Anjaly produce high quality, eco-friendly threads that are for more than just yoga. Simplicity and harmony guide their designs and organic cotton is their medium. Anjaly is paving the way for us, as individuals, to take stock of what we wear and how we feel wearing it and have come up with an option to make us all feel freer.

Biasa Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-8878002 Map Ref: B3 Stylish nomads dress in Biasa. One of Bali's top labels for cotton and linen fashion opened an outlet in Ubud (near Naughty Nuri's) with their unique and recognizable cut and design. Comfortable, flowing and in a range of soft, contemporary colours Biasa-wear is ideal to move elegantly around the hills in. Dandelion Ubud Main Street 18 Tel: 0361-978085 Map Ref: K.10 A boutique for the heir and spare. Delightful children's wear from the ever-popular and ever-expanding Dandelion. Divya Boutique 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K.10 Exquisite handmade batik shop incorporating both traditional and modern designs into cotton, silk and canvas textiles. All dresses, sarongs, shirts and scarves at Divya – which is part of

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School's out for Andrew Hall. I was talking to a fellow runaway the other day – we were reminiscing about our school days and were in agreement that neither of us enjoyed the experience much at all. All he ever wanted to do was paint. All I ever wanted to do was write. So between the two of us we have amassed a plethora of cunning ways for avoiding math classes – that we are more than willing to share with you . . . for a small fee. Our cogitations on matters educational arose because my friend shares two young children with his very excellent Balinese wife – the older son being in his first year of schooling. The younger one, I suspect, will not require the school experience because according to a local balian (shaman) he is the reincarnation of my friend’s grandfather and, as such, has presumably been through the education system at least once. Older son doesn’t think his time is being productively spent at school ... “. . . because it’s boring daddy . . .” And my friend – against the grain of contemporary psycho-social thinking – agrees with his boy entirely (which presents a dilemma with respect to what actually constitutes productive timespending outside of drawing cows and fish and dressing up as Lady Gaga). Not one to be moved by peer pressure – albeit that I haven’t yet heard his wife’s take on the situation – my friend has devised an interesting solution to the problem. And struck a bargain with his son . . . “. . . if you learn to read really well AND learn how to do mathematics (a bit hypocritical on this aspect I thought) you

don’t have to go to school any more . . .” At this point I must point out that number one son is already trilingual – as many kids born into mixed marriages around here are – so verbal communication is not a problem. Without wishing to argue the relative merits of parents’ educational decisionmaking for their children, having the discussion with my friend did bring home the point that, here, we have a flexibility not necessarily available in the countries from which we hail. In western countries the range of our decisions (see also, the

ability to think outside of the box and experiment with different ways of doing things) has been stymied by bureaucratic (and public policy) interventionism and a herd mentality. I do agree with him that the ability to read – and read critically – is THE most important life skill to have. Apart, perhaps, from the ability to avoid being run over when crossing a road. I guess I also have to give (at least basic) math skills a tick – especially given the scant attention to detail that some staff in various retail outlets and “hospitality” industries in these parts pay to returning the correct change to paying patrons. In my birth country the basics of education were referred to as “The Three

Rs” – which stood for “Reading Riting and Rithmatic”. This might explain some of my dilemmas in childhood because even at a very young age I understood that the ability to spell – especially by those who represented the education department – was fairly important. But whenever I, or my friend, brought such matters to the attention of our teachers we were either expelled from the classroom or hit on the head with a ruler. Expressing one’s self in life is an essential part of living in a community, whether that community is comprised of painters, writers, or those who attempt to negotiate the precarious paths of quantum mechanics and chaos theory (obviously the latter requires a pretty complete understanding of the language of mathematics). And/or all the other individuals and groups thereof who constitute the human milieu. Read everything that’s ever been written – even the tricky stuff by the likes of Socrates, Salman Rushdie, and Umberto Eco. Then observe the world around you and write about it without recourse to a spell-checker; dictionaries are much better for getting at roots and meanings. Write in a fashion that requires more dedication and dissent than the despondent, discursive, dribble appearing on Facebook and Twitter. You never know – some magazine editor or book publisher might think your stuff is good enough for public consumption. And as you move through the world it’s a skill that might earn you a bit of coin. As for the future of my friend’s eldest . . . I reckon he’s going to do just fine because he’s got a creative fire in his belly; he’s funny and loving; and he is loved.

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DANCE: “No feast is complete in Bali,” penned the Mexican writer Miguel Covarrubias in 1937, “without music and elaborate dramatic and dance performances. No one would dream of getting married, or holding a cremation, or even of celebrating a child’s birthday, without engaging troupes of dancers and actors to entertain the guests and neighbours.” Dance and drama remain central to the Balinese way, colourful spectacles in the life of the culture. In fact Covarrubias and his wife became such enthusiastic theatre-goers during their time on the island they “sometimes they had to make a point of staying home to catch up with lost sleep”. The Mexican chronicler wrote in his still definitive book, Island of Bali: “Even the tired peasant who works all day in the fields does not mind staying up at night to watch a show, and the little children who invariably make up the front rows of the audience remain there until dawn for the end, occasionally huddled together taking naps, but wide awake for the exciting episodes of the play.” Next to having good orchestras, a fine group of dancers is an imperative need for the spiritual and physical well being of the community. When a society has enough money for the elaborate costumes needed for public appearance, the village banjar or community association gives an inauguration festival to bless the clothes. All actors, dancers, or story-tellers undergo the same ceremony – in the case of a dancer, a priest uses the stem of a flower to inscribe magic syllables on the face, head, tongue and hands in order to make the dancer attractive to the eyes of the public. It is not only on this occasion that dancers pray for success; before every performance they make small offerings to the deities of the dance. Nomad Restaurant on Ubud Main Street – are individually hand made using the ‘batik tulis’ process, which means patterns are hand-drawn and painted. Prices range from $70 to $180. Each piece is entirely original – no mass produced cottons here. BOTANIC GARDENS Botanical Gardens at Elephant Safari Park Taro Bali Adventure Tours, Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480. This park is not just about elephants – throughout this 3.5 hectare wildlife haven are myriad indigenous plant species and a fabulous orchid display. Botanic Gardens Ubud Kutuh Kaja. Tel: 0361-7463389. Situated at an elevation of

between 320 and 400 metres above sea level, the Botanic Gardens Ubud offers a range of micro-climates including ravine, hillside, meadow, a river, waterfalls and natural forest on a vast six hectare property.


except for three rounds permitted prior to temple ceremonies) of setting two cocks to fight each other. Fighting cocks often have their legs fitted with sharpened metal spurs. A cockfight is not only allowed at every Balinese temple festival, it is required. The blood is an offering to the hungry forces of evil.



Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 Map ref: B.3 Caviar menu and Champagne menu available, indulge your tastebud with the Caspian Sevruga Caviar and Iranian Imperial Oestra Caviar and Champagne at the Lounge of Mozaic.

Beduur Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Part nature walk, part culinary experience. Walk along the Ayung River and up to a village where the locals grow spices and vegetables. Then come to what is described as the hotel’s ‘indigenous outdoor kitchen’, located amongst the rice fields. The chef will inform and guide you through the creation

COCKFIGHTING Cockfighting|käk faiti ng | noun | Balinese ‘Tajen’ | The sport (banned in 1981 in Indonesia

of three traditional recipes (which will also be yuor lunch!) A gentle wander back to the hotel grounds with views of Mount Batukaru is as much of a gift as the recipes you created that day. Bumbu Bali Restaurant Jl. Suweta No. 1. Tel: 0361-974217. Half-day cooking programs with Balinese chefs teaching a wide variety of traditional island food. Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-977409. Map Ref: J.6 Join Casa Luna’s own Janet De Neefe and team and discover the exotic spices and ingredients of Balinese food. Explore cooking techniques, alternative ingredients and fascinating kitchen myths of this unique culture. Each session includes a lavish

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Balinese feast with complete class notes. Guests of the Honeymoon Guesthouses receive a 10% discount on all cooking classes. Mozaic Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 Map ref: B.3 So not your average cooking class! Award-winning chef Chris Salans (think Table du Monde) will invite you into his ultra-modern Miele kitchen where you can choose to take a workshop that will enhance your culinary craft in either local or Mozaic-style cuisine. The Workshop space is also open to Chef’s dinners and private cocktail parties. Kupu Kupu Barong Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975478. Map Ref: A.2 Balinese cooking secrets revealed in one of Ubud’s most charming resorts. Learn to cook a classic three-course Balinese meal of Soto Udan, Pepes Ikan and Dadar Gulung which make up the delicious lunch to follow. Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977888. Map Ref: L.17 In one easy hour, Maya Ubud’s master chefs will teach you five traditional Balinese dishes and then invite you for lunch. Take

home a complimentary recipe book to continue your Balinese culinary education. The Secret Garden Cooking School Penestanan Kaja. Tel: 0361-979395. One and two-day hands-on intensive courses will allow you to learn, understand and appreciate Balinese cooking at its best.

Germany is a world leader in beautiful, resorative dentistry and most procedures can be done in one visit. Compare the cost of treatments in other Asia Pacific destinations and you will find yourself pleasantly surprised. A recent addition is a women's medical spa offering ozone treatments, basic pre-med check ups and a variety of feminine hygiene treatments. CRAFTS

Clinics Prima Medika Hospital (Outpost) Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Mas. Tel: 0361-972374. A hospital favoured among longtime expats, Prima Medika’s main facility is in Denpasar, approx 45 minutes by car. Open from 8am8pm. Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972648. Bali joins the rest of the world on the age reversal, rejuvenation and appearance optimization stage. Sayan Aesthetic Institute, an Australiandeveloped aesthetic clinic located on the stunning grounds of a luxury resort in Sayan, offers all visitors to Bali the complete range of one visit procedures. Also on the beauty enhancement side, the high-tech dental studio is a must. CEREC from SIRONA

Indigo Jl. Monkey Fores. Tel: 0361-7810631.

Art and artifacts, natural dye batiks & ikats, handcrafted, earth-conscious clothing, jewelry, gifts, furniture and home accessories. Macan Tidur Gallery Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10. Tel: 0361-977121.

Map Ref: L.6 Whilst one half of Macan Tidur (otherwise known as Sleeping Tiger) is for exquisite antiques, the other half supports local craftsmen to continue their creative traditions whilst also supporting innovations. One of Bali’s best places to buy unique pieces for gifts or interiors. Oman Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978250. "Modern Art • Design • Ethnic • Antiques" reads the business card of this well laid-out

gallery shop – from antiques to lamps to knick knacks for interiors. On the hill that leads to cocktails or culture – just steps away from Naughty Nuri’s and the Neka Museum. Sayan Square Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 081236 806100. A one-stop shop where you

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OFFERINGS: Bali’s offerings take on myriad forms, part of the ritualistic art of the island. Simple offerings are presented daily to the gods – they may range from a tiny piece of banana leaf holding a few grains of rice to elaborate palm-leaf trays containing flowers and betel nut, a token of hospitality for the spirits. In 1937, Miguel Covarrubias. whose book Island of Bali is regarded by many as the definitive text on matters Balinese, wrote that offerings “are given in the same spirit as presents to the prince or friends, a sort of modest bribe to strengthen a request; but it is a condition that they should be beautiful and well made to please the gods and should be placed on well decorated high altars”. The size of the offering may also be scaled up or down depending on the occasion or nature of the “request”. Pula gembal, consisting of dozens of different rice dough figurines, may range in size from a single basket to a spectacular construction several meters high. Women and girls nearly always carry towering cones of rice cakes, fruit and sweet breads to the temple, where the gods are said to consume their essence, leaving the food intact to be returned home later. No part of the offering may be used again, meaning the banten must be reproduced for every single festival. can find a variety of items from batik to fashion, gifts to handicrafts, home decor to home spa products. If one of you shops and the other does not, coffee and the delicious handcrafted JBay ice cream is also on the schedule. Tegun Gallery Jl. Hanoman #44B. Tel: 0361-970992. Woodcrafting for the home and garden. A unique collection of inspiring traditional Folk art from across the archipelago.

D DHARMA (Sanskrit) Meaning righteousness. The orderly fulfilment of inherent duty. A religious duty, according to one’s caste. Adharma is unrighteousness or the lack of observation of this duty, and brings accumulation of demerit.


Golden Hour by Agung Rai. ARMA Museum & Resort, Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742/976659 This is one of those special tours, the kind that can really open your eyes to the beauty of Bali. Starting from the ARMA Museum & Resort, join owner Agung Rai as he takes you to his secret places just north of Ubud, to lands that have not changed in customs or traditions for thousands of years. Walk the verdant rice fields, gaze upon Mt. Agung majestic in the dawn's glow, stop for coffee at a local warung... and along the way learn how the Balinese really feel and think from one of the island's most helpful and generous tour guides. A stunning dawn tour of some of Bali's most outstanding landscape.

place so much he got married here...well sort of. The Green School Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Banjar Saren, Abiansemal. Tel: 0361-469875 A powerful community jointventure school and event centre on the river. Well worth an afternoon looksee. Utama Spice - Bali Herb Walk & Jamu Class Banjar Pengosekan, Jl Kaja Kauh #8. Tel: 0361-975051 or 0812 3816 020. Contact Lilir for secrets of jamu, Indonesia’s practice of traditional herbal medicine.


The Linda Garland Estate Banjar Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-974017. Linda Garland’s worldrenowned river-estate is an amazing tribute to the potential of bamboo in all its forms. Mick Jagger loved this

Bali Spirit Festival A vibrant and uplifting annual international celebration of yoga, dance and music held in Ubud, the Bali Spirit Festival brings international

artists and yoga practitioners together to inspire change in our world. Held in April each year at the Bali Purnati Centre for the Arts in Batuan. Go online and sign up for the Bali Spirit newsletter to stay in the loop about next year’s event. Ubud Writers & Readers www.ubudwritersfestival. com One of the six best literary festivals in the world (according to Harper’s Bazaar UK at least), the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival brings together writers, readers, artists and performers in a week-long program that’s put Ubud on the map as an international centre for the arts. Check the website for details, news, and updates as to who is coming this year and how to get tickets to the literary lunches, workshops and talks.


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Horizon Glassworks Jl. Raya Kengetan. Tel: 0361-7804014. Map Ref: F.1 Handmade glass, expert craftmanship, best materials and great prices on solid sculpture and more. Trained at the world-recognised centre for hot glass – Pilchuck Glass School in Washington State’s Cascade Mountains – Horizon Glassworks founder Ron Seivertson believes the process of creating hot glass art is all encompassing. “There is something about the material that is alive,” he says. “Before being melted it is pure silica sand; after melting it is glass, and it will be glass forever – there is an alchemy in this process.” Ron transforms molten glass into sophisticated sculptures and vessels alike, capturing the fragile beauty of the subjects that inspire his work. Visit the workshop on the south end of Sayan Ridge and see art in creation. Monday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm.

Threads of Life Indonesian Textile Art Center Jl. Kajeng 24. Tel: 0361-972187 While Threads of Life Gallery mostly displays and sells natural dyed traditional textiles made by the 1200 weavers on the 11 islands that Threads of Life works with, the gallery also features a variety of fine crafts made by traditional artisans, including fine traditional basketry, pottery along with homewares such as pillows and tablerunners, and wearable art.

H Handicrafts

Light Spirit Jalan Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-857-5570 Sound and energy healing centre which works with intuitive and highly educated therapists to ensure a high quality standard for energetic treatments. Open Monday – Saturday from 10:30 – 7:30 pm

exclusively for women are also now part of the programme. HOMESTAYS Alam Indah Family Hotels Nyuh Kuning village. Tel: 0361-974629. Jati 3 Bungalows & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-973349 & 977101. Kebun Indah (Beautiful Garden) Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-973366. Padi Prada Suite – Resto – Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978972 & 970979. padiprada.php Sania`s House Jl. Karna 7. Tel: 0361-975535.

HEALTH GALUNGAN (Noun). A religious festival that takes place on Wednesday of the week Dunggulan in the Balinese calendar and which celebrates the victory of dharma (religious duty) over adharma, (or the lack of observance of this duty).

beauty sanctuary, five suites for residential healing, two pools – for Watsu and Healing water dancing – a laboratory, meeting rooms and a myriad of curative treatments Fivelements is going 'deeper', way deeper, than others on Bali have gone before.

Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 Taking healing and healthy living to a new level, Fivelements is a tribute to both traditional Balinese healing Usadha – there are two native healers more or less in residence – and to Living Foods with Sakti, their fine dining vegan restaurant. With eight healing rooms, a

Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972648. On the other side of the spectrum, Sayan Aesthetic Institute (SAI) treads the well worn path of beauty and rejuvenation through modern means. This Australian-developed clinic offers a complete range of procedures including world leader Germany's high-tech restorative dentistry, CEREC from SIRONA. Treatments

Swasti Cottage Banjar Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-974079. Taman Indrakila Hotel Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-975017. Tirta Harum Jl. Jero Gadung 66A, Kutuh Kelod. Tel: 0361-973381.

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NYEPI: What could be a better illustration of Bali’s on-going dedication to religion and ritual than Nyepi, the island’s Day of Silence? The afternoon before this extraordinary annual festival, excited children create vast figures in demonic designs – these ogres with their long talons and fierce teeth will later be lifted onto the shoulders of groups of men and danced around the streets in a mass of noise and colour. The festivities reach a chaotic climax before midnight, when crowds pick up and bang on drums, wooden logs or musical instruments, to be followed in the morning by a deafening silence, a time when the people stay in their houses, lights, and fires are put out and the roads are made empty. This, more than any other ceremony in Bali, shows the island’s true regard for ritual: the island’s visitors, just like anyone else, are forced so stay inside in observance of Nyepi. For 24 hours, Bali stands silent, its beaches, bars, and restaurants closed against daylight in the hope that evil forces will be tricked into leaving its deserted streets. HOTELS Agung Raka Bungalow Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975757. Alila Manggis Desa Manggis, Candi Dasa. Tel: 0363-41011. One of Bali's best kept secrets, Alila Manggis is a secluded, stylish seaside resort in Manggis, East Bali, superbly designed in a contemoprary interpretation of traditional Balinese architecture. All rooms face the ocean with clear views across the straits to Nusa Penida. Alila Manggis is famed for its cooking school specialising in Eastern Balinese cuisine. Alila Ubud Desa Melinggh Kelod, Payangan. Tel: 0361-975963. One of Ubud’s favoured hotels, this 56-room resort perches along the ridge of the Ayung River valley. Four Pool villas and four valley villas offer superb one-up-manship

for privacy and luxury. A megalith garden, a designer and a fabulous pavilion restaurant complete this one of a kind resort. Alila Ubud is also one of the top wedding venues in Ubud. Alila Soori Banjar Dukuh, Desa Kelating, Kerambitan, Tabanan. Tel: 0361-894 6388. Alila Villas Soori has brought new meaning to stylish, luxurious and yet relaxed beachfront living. All the villas in this luxury all-pool villa property were sensitively designed to maximize views of the surrounding beach, sea and paddy fields, while still maintaining a sense of privacy and shelter. Interconnected spaces create a harmonious flow from the interior to exterior space. Alila Villas Soori comprises of 15 onebedroom Beach Villa, 15 one-bedroom Ocean Villa, 8 one-bedroom Terrace Villas as well as 9 residential villas. Each villa is accompanied by its very own private pool and in-villa Alila hospitalities, such as dedicated villa host service, a gourmet bar, espresso

coffee and tea making facilities, 24-hour in-villa dining, LCD televisions, Apple TV and iPod, double vanity with complete range of Alila’s signature bath amenities.

and natural landscape.

Amandari Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975333. Legendary luxury Ubud retreat.

Anhera Suite Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 168. Tel: 0361-977845.

Ananda Cottages Campuhan Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975376. ARMA Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742/976659. ARMA resort is artistically and thoughtfully designed with antique wooden beds on each patio providing a romantic perch from which to enjoy the view. Traditional Balinese architecture melds thatched roofs, woven bamboo and sculpted sandstone into a unique and meditative ambience surrounded by lush tropical gardens and rice terraces. The Resort is set within a unique

Anini Raka Resort Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-975213.

Bagus Jati Br. Jati, Desa Sebatu, . Tel: 0361-978885/901888. This out of the way resort is ideal for those times when you need to retreat and cleanse. Fabulous spa facilities. Barong Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-971759. Beji Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-971166. Bidadari Private Villas & Retreat Jl. Raya Kelabang Moding Tel: 0361-9000402 www.bidadarivillasubudbali.

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com Map Ref. G.8 In under one year, Bidadari Private Villas and Retreat, set in the outlying lushness of Ubud, has already garnered no less than 11 ‘excellents’ from Tripadvisor. Sophisticated seclusion on a magical ravine, their five private villas offer sumptuous and distinctive décor and expansive living areas. Panoramic views look out over Nature and are enhanced with horizonedge pools. The bedrooms and bathrooms are fit for angels no less, as is the spa and meditation area. Fully staffed and cuisined, you will probably find that when it is time to come down from the clouds, a little bit of you will always stay behind.

can also order delicious meals from the extensive menu of the Casa Luna Restaurant, part of the same organisation under Ubud’s own Janet De Neefe. Cendana Resort and Spa Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-973243. Champlung Sari Hotel Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-975418/975349. www.champlungsariubud. com A veritable instituion with

Bumi Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No.88, Br. Silungan Lodtunduh. Tel: 0361-974124.

many returnees, located right opposite Ubud’s Monkey Forest.

Casa Luna Honeymoon Guesthouse Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-973282. The Honeymoon Guesthouses are situated only a fiveminute walk away from the heart of Ubud and Casa Luna Restaurant. With 30 elegant Balinese–style guest rooms set in lush tropical gardens, Honeymoon Guesthouse has become a favourite with travellers, possibly because it boasts within its grounds the Honeymoon Bakery. Guests

Cinta Inn Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975395. Cinta Inn has opened behind central Ubud's favorite watering hole, Cinta Grill. Downtown and hip, expect a dock for your iPod, plenty of light to read The Yak and The Bud, DVD's and flat screens, and the comfiest bedding you'll find in a small inn. The pool is cool too. Rates +/USD125 include selections from Cinta Grill's awesome breakfast menu.

COMO Shambhala Estate Br. Begawan Giri, Payongan. Tel: 0361-978888. An Estate like no other. This is where the A-list, red carpet regulars and the rest of the jet–set come for a change of scenery. Set on acres and acres of ravine and river exuberance, this retreat combines opulence, health, excellent raw food and a world-class spa topped off with with some of the world’s best butlers. One wants for nothing at Como.

Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 With only five suites for residential healing, Fivelements treat their on-site guests to a one-on-one like no other. This eco-friendly healing centre, crafted from sustainable bamboo, is located on the banks of the Ayung river and offers a unique visitation into the Balinese world of traditional healing, set on the edge of a verdant, tropical forest. Four Seasons Resort Sayan Sayan Ridge. Tel: 0361-977577. sayan/ One of the most famous of Bali’s hotels as almost every year Condé Nast or some other venerable travel magazine nominates it for its fabulosity or service. Furama Villas & Spa Jl. Raya Mambal, Br. Bindu, Tel: 0361-7463064. Furama’s first resort property, Furama Villas & Spa Ubud is set amidst an expanse of serene rice fields, framed by the majestic Mount Batur. Gaya Fusion Villa Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-979252/979253. Recently completed one and two bedroom villas showcase the artistry of Gaya Ceramics. Contemporary simplicity perfects the quiet, mature tree-lined river valley. Garden View Cottages Monkey Forest Road. Tel: 0361-974055. Kajane Mua Villa Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-972877. Kamandalu Resort & Spa Jl. Tegallalang, Br. Nagi. Tel: 0361-975825. Kayu Manis Ubud Br. Baung, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972777.

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The first of the Kayu Manis brand, the one-bedroom villas are excellent and the new spa is something to write home about. Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-971933. Map Ref: L.4 Located in Bisma street and close to the very centre of Ubud, the Komaneka at Bisma is a sophisticated and contemporary lifestyle resort, beautifully designed and nestled along the Campuhan river valley, with amazing views of the river, sloping rice fields and coconut groves. Choose a Bisma Suite Room or a One or Two Bedroom Pool Villa. Overall this resort melds beautifully with a truly stunning site; staff are well-trained and extremely friendly and considered part of the well-respected and established family that owns and operates the property. Apple TV in each suite room is an innovative touch to this culturally-sensitive and artistically inspired hotel. Komaneka at Monkey Forest Jl. Monkey Forest. Gianyar. Tel: 0361-976090. Map Ref: P.7 The first of three Komaneka’s that have paved the way for travellers of all ages to enjoy Ubud. Located in the very central Monkey Forest road, this small hotel has the option of fabulous rice field views or tropical garden views. A

contemporary art gallery makes it young, hip and chic – Ubud style. So popular it is usually fully booked. Komaneka at Tanggayuda Br. Tanggayuda, Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-978123. Map Ref: P.7 Think romance, think honeymoon, even if you have been married a few years. Komaneka Tanggayuda ignites passion and initmacy in this hillside resort, just a

Map Ref: A1 This is a charming and verdant resort that spills down the hillside along the Ayung River Valley in Sayan, offering spectacular views of the Ubud countryside as well as friendly service and a buggy ride back and forth from your luxury pool villa. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977 888. Map Ref: K18

and an award-winning spa (not to mention the excellent food - see Restaurants). Natura Villa Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Gunung Sari, Br. Laplapan. Tel: 0361-978666. Novus Taman Bebek Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-975385. Oka Kartini Bungalows Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975193. Ibu Oka Kartini has been welcoming travellers to Ubud for a number of years now and largely because of her they keep coming back! Padi Prada Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978972. www.padiprada.balidwipa. com

short drive north of Ubud. Balconies, soft beds and huge bathtubs set the scene for one of rest, relaxation and pure indulgence. Kori Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 18, Campuhan. Tel: 0361-972487. Kupu Kupu Barong Ubud Villa & Spa Jl. Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975478.

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa is set in 10 hectares of hillside garden, stretching 780 metres along a peninsula high above two river valleys. It flows from hilltop down to riverside hideaway, 30 metres below. Just minutes by foot from Ubud, Maya Ubud Resort & Spa provides a spacious, stylish and luxurious environment in which to enjoy some of life’s better moments. Setting it apart are the luxurious Pool Villas, the landscaped botanical walk that skirts this vast property

Pertiwi Resort and Spa Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975236. Puri Tupai Private Garden Villa Jl. Raya Anak Agung Gede Rai, Banjar Abian Semal, Lodtunduh. Tel: 0361-981655 Chef, housekeeper, 24 hour security guards, 2 watchdogs, 6 squirrels, 83 koi and two turtles. Puri Tupai is heaven on earth with its two traditional joglos, four bedrooms, 25

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metre pool, grass tennis court, sculpture garden and the mod cons of satellite TV and Internet connection. So fabulous you won't want leave the property! Excellent for families, excellent for friends.

A sister property to The Samaya in Seminyak, this latest property from The Royal Collection hotel group boasts 19 villas set against the Ayung River in arguably Bali's chicest valley, Sayan.

Puri Bunga Village Hotel Jl. Raya Kedewatan PO Box 141. Tel: 0361-975488.

Semana Villa Br. Semana, Desa Singakerta. Tel: 0361-7471234. Set in a Balinese village just out of Ubud, the outstanding scenery to and from this property complements the luxury of staying in it.

Puri Saron Villa & Spa Desa Madangan, Petak. Tel: 0361-270123. Royal Pita Maha Desa Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-980022. Fit for a Prince and built by a Prince. Royal Pita Maha encompasses regal Balinese architecture on a stunning valley and river–view property.

Sunny Blow Villa Jepun Jln. Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977950. Fax 0361970012. www.

Tanah Merah Resort Melayang, Pejeng. Tel: 0361-978554/978552. Tegal Sari Hotel Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-973318. Tepi Sawah Villas Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-970388 A restful retreat set amidst beautiful tropical gardens, Tepi Sawah Villas offer spacious Balinese-style accommodation, ultimate privacy, a friendly atmosphere,

SayanTerrace Resort Jl. Raya Sayan. Tel: 0361-974384. The Samaya Ubud Banjar Baung, Desa Sayan. Tel: 0361-973610 Next to the well-regarded Minami Japanese restaurant (and indeed managed by the same team) is Sunny Blow, a charming collection of bungalows set in a garden around a small pool. Each room is designed with style and comfort in mind: the furniture is hand-picked and Colonial to suit the mood of this relaxed mid-range property.

The Elephant Safari Park Lodge Jl. Elephant Park, Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge. com A lodge that is not a lodge. Twenty-five luxury accommodations in the centre of an elephant park! Pack your trunk and go to bed with the pachyderms. One of the top 100 things to have done in a lifetime. The Linda Garland Estate Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-974028.

Rijasa Agung Resort & Villa Br. Begawan, Desa Melinggih, Kelud Payangan. Tel: 0361-980333. Sahadewa Resort & Spa Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal. Tel: 0361-971590.

This luxury 20-villa resort, set on an estate dedicayed to elephants and surrounded on all sides by paddy fields is located near the Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave, and a favourite among ‘those in the know’.

together with excellent, personalised service. The Balinese-style thatchedroof villas overlook verdant rice terraces, decorated with selected paintings and artifacts by Ubud's famous artists. The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Tel: 0361-975685. Map Ref: X18

The Mansion Hotel & Spa Jl. Penestanan, Sayan. Tel: 0361-972616. Map Ref: D3 ‘Grand’ is the word that comes to mind when walking through the doors of the aptly named The Mansion Hotel & Spa. Asian opulence at its best with a sweeping staircase that leads to an eclectic that houses paintings, rare textiles and royal regalia. The Suites and Residences host large four poster beds, swathed silk curtains and generous bathrooms. Indochine, the restaurant, is exotic and romantic. (See Restaurants)

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The Ubud Village Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-978444. The Viceroy Bali Jl. Lanyahan, Br Nagi. Tel: 0361-971777. An relative newcomer to the Ubud hotel and resort scene, The Viceroy Bali is now one of the top resorts in the area. Tjampuhan Hotel & Spa Jl. Raya Tjampuhan. Tel: 0361-975368. Ubud Hotel - Taman Harum Cottages Tel: 0361-975567. www.bali-hotel-taman-harum. com

Ubud Hanging Gardens Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan, Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com. Located in the steep rice terraces of Payangan, this unique resort has 38 luxury private pool villas, each with heated private infinity plunge pools and spectacular views of an ancient temple, tropical mountains and the winding Ayung river. The resort itself is not so much perched on the hilltop as has merged with it, and a small mechanical carriage (funicular) carries guests up and down the hillside in style. Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng No 35. Tel: 0361-974393. A resort offering health and detoxification treatments. Ulun Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Tel: 0361-975024. Uma Ubud Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448. Map Ref: B.4 Tropical French contemporary is a style with which Uma has become known, in other words elegant simplicity. One of Ubud’s top yet more exclusive resorts boasts an excellent bar, a fabulous pool, a Zen-inspired spa, yoga pavilion and a restaurant (Kemiri) that has won accolades and a local expat following. Less espensive than sister resort COMO Shambhala, the care for health, excellent service and all the trappings are of equal standing. Villa Indah Ubud Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-975450. Villa Kånti Br. Apuh, Mawang Kelod, Lodtunduh. Tel: 0361-8614400. Villa Kerti Yasa Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-971377. Villa Sonia Jl. Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning.

Tel: 0361-971307.


Warwick Ibah Villa & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan. Tel: 0361-974466. A small but revered boutique hotel with Balinese architecture fountains and tropical gardens. One of the more genteel places to stay. The view from the balcony terraces and bathrooms is totally memorable.


Waka Di Ume Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-973178.

Simple Balinese elegance from the Waka boutique hotel group. Set in rice paddy just north of Ubud, it ranks as one of the areas nicest places to stay. Waka Namya Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Penestanan. Tel: 0361-975719. Balinese antiques marry modern convenience. Romantic rice barn rooms or family villas with pools.

Galaxyan Jewelry Jl. Hanoman No.3. Tel: 0361- 971430. Map ref: K.10 The Galaxyan collection has been created by Italian artist Milena Zu and uses intricate 'mesh' designs in silver, together with stones that range from gems to minerals and zircons. The collection includes bracelets, necklaces, anklets and accessories. This very intricate weaving process

was employed in the past to make gold woven jewelry for maraharajas and nobles of the Orient, but through Galaxyan it is now available for you too! Gemala Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-976084. JFF Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan No. 7. Tel: 0361-974652.

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Map Ref: I.8 Jean Francois Fichot, jeweller extraordinaire who exhibits world-wide, has long attracted the A list to his style of design and art. He blends, moulds and crafts everyday things found in nature into intricate pieces of art. JFF’s gold earrings, rings and necklaces create not only conversations but jealousies too. Treasures Jewelry Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-976697. Map Ref: I.6 Acclaimed jewellers exhibit at Treasures, Bali’s most unique venue for the world’s most favoured metal. Gold, and lots of it, alongside precious and semi-precious stones amalgamate to make up truly one-of-a-kind pieces that last many lifetimes. Yan Van Jewelry Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-978513. Finally jewelry that looks great on men (and excuse me, women too)! Using rubber and silver as his ‘signature take’ on adorning the opposite sex, Yan Van’s unique pieces are masculine yet thankfully not overly biker-ish.

K KAWI A literary language, based on Sanskrit, that evolved in South India and was transmitted to Java; many sacred Balinese

lontars are written in Kawi, which is unintelligable to the average person and must be interpreted; the heroes and heroines of the epic poems speak in Kawi. In the lower case, kawi means ‘creative force’,

elegantly accompanied by a deluxe tapas menu and very delicious cocktails.

‘to write or compose prose or poetry’. Map Ref: M.12 Cool Jazz at Ubud's hottest night spot. A lively and popular club, restaurant and bar frequented by locals, ex-pats and international travellers alike. Enjoy a meal from their excellent bistro, try one of their legendary cocktails, sit back, relax or kick up your heels and dance the night away. Their inviting, intimate venue is perfect for birthdays, anniversaries, wedding parties and other special events. Great bands play Jazz, Blues, Latin, Funk, Soul and World Music from 7.30 to 10.30pm every night (except Sundays and Mondays). Free pick up service from hotels in the Ubud area.

KIDS See entries under Adventure and Wildlife – Bali Zoo Park, Bali Safari & Marine Park, Bali Bird Park and Elephant Safari Park Taro. ARMA Museum carries out painting, dancing and offering making classes. Ceramic sessions are held at Gaya Gallery in Sayan for kids.

L LIVE JAZZ Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Telp: 975768 Map Ref: B.3 Every Thursday, Friday, Saturday nights are the time to enjoy the live jazz performance at the Lounge at Mozaic from 7pm – 11pm,

Jazz Cafe Jl Sukma, Tebesaya. Tel: 0361-976594.

Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-970928. Map Ref: P.7 A cosy, vibrant and funky

cocktail bar. East West tapas or if you are in the mood for some local fare, try a dish from their inspired Asian menu while sipping on a lychee and lemongrass martini (buy 2 get one FREE sunset cocktails from 4 to 7pm). The little sister of Jazz Café, the music is a treat, with great playlists to soothe the soul and live gigs on Mondays with Bali’s own Blues Brothers and Thursday nights Acoustic Jam Session - from 8 to 11pm. Open all day, every day. Free Wifi 9am to 6pm.

M MELASPAS (noun): A dedication ceremony in which a house or other building is “brought to life” with offerings, mantras and holy water so that it can be lived in and used.

N NGABEN To cremate a body, low Balinese or Sudra; the noun is properly pengabenan, but the transitive verb is commonly used to mean “cremation”, an important final rite of passage for every Balinese, for it is only in this way that the spirit may be released from its body to join the family’s deified ancestors.

O ODALAN A temple ceremony marking its

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anniversary. Lasting anywhere from one day to over a week, temple grounds are decked out in flags, penjors and impressive offerings. Music and prayers go on well into the night.

P PALACES If you’re interested in seeing a palace and observing the way life is conducted inside, there are opportunities to do so, but remember that for the most part they are private homes, not public throughways. Many of the Ubud royals have opened hotels and restaurants within the walls of their homes, so one can, in fact, sleep and eat in one of the Ubud palaces, enjoying accommodations from the most modest bungalow to modern luxury rooms. In some cases, you have a chance to meet the palace residents and join them for family and community ceremonies. Puri Saren Agung is the central palace where the public dance performances are held. Located at the northeast corner of the central cross-roads, it’s pretty hard to miss. It was the home of the last “king” of Ubud, and now his descendants live there. It is essentially the “father palace” of the other Ubud palaces, which are more or less its “spinoffs,” built as the family extended. It was also Ubud’s first hotel, opening its doors to paying visitors in the 1930s. Parts of the gardens and some of the bales

are quite grand and formal, with generous lashings of prada (gold leaf) applied to the carved woodwork. Puri Saren Kangin is the eastern portion of Puri Saren (kangin means”east”), and is a private residence for several branches of the Ubud royal family. Pura Saren Kauh Kauh means “west,” and accordingly, this is the occidental portion of the palace. PERFORMANCES See last pages of The List for Dance Schedules and Performances. PROPERTY Desa Kerasan Tel. 0361-9000566 The opportunity of a lifetime should you wish to buy in Ubud is the upcoming Desa Kerasan. A six home community minutes away from the town centre has been created to offer elegant living with a focus on being green. Priced at under $300k. Exotiq Real Estate Sanur, Bali Office Jalan Danau Tamblingan 77, Sanur, Bali 80227, Indonesia Tel: 0361-287642 Exotiq Real Estate is South East Asia's largest brokerage and consultancy focusing on property located in highly attractive and desirable holiday destinations. Exotiq Real Estate offers prime property listings in nine different destinations from a

network of 12 offices.Exotiq Real Estate Bali is the largest real estate specialist with offices in Lovina, Jimbaran, Sanur and Seminyak. Ubud Property Jl. Raya Ubud No.1 (eastern end of main street Ubud, next to the statue). Tel: 0361-970888. Ubud Property is a leading realtor in the Ubud area. The company is staffed by professionals who will help you to find and secure your ideal property and, let’s face it, who doesn’t want to retire and live in Ubud? The Ubud Property team is multinational and experienced, with the key staff holding degrees in law. The company works in association with the region’s leading Notary Office for optimal legal protection, and enjoys a reputation good enough to hold an exceptional portfolio of villas and land in and around Ubud. PHOTOGRAPHY Infinity Upper Monkey Forest Road Tel: 0361-972500 Rio Helmi Gallery Jl. Suweta No. 5. Tel: 0361-972304. Yaeko Masuda

R RESTAURANTS Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. Ary’s gourmet European and Indonesian specialties have fans from around the world. Stop in for at least one of the honey-gingerlime drinks (with or without the booze) and kick back on a couch street side for a bit of people-watching. The metallic, angular construction of this open-air bistro would look great in a big-city gallery district, and stands comfortably beside ancient Hindu temples and the adjacent Royal Palace. It is the place to see and be seen and Ary’s is quite pleasant at night, when tranquil trance music plays and candles light every corner. Second-floor dining gives you a good view of the busy street below or the bats swooping to catch bugs at dusk. The food is good but not for the budget-minded. Try the gazpacho, perfect on a hot day, or the grilled goat’s cheese salad. The grilled tuna is done to perfection, and the ponzu-grilled snapper is delicious. Ary’s also makes an excellent virgin wheat grass mojito - though we are sure they will be happy to add a shot of vodka if needed! Bebek Bengil Restaurant (Dirty Duck Diner) Jl. Hanoman,

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Padang Tegal. Tel: 0361-975489. Bebek Bengil or Crispy Duck is what this venue is famous for... as well as its breezy pavilion style seating. Bebek Tepi Sawah Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Br. Teges, Peliatan. Tel: 0361-975656 Map Ref: E.6 Enjoy a wide selection of cuisine, ranging from contemporary Western and innovative Indonesian or Balinese specialties in a fresh atmosphere within the environment of a real Balinese village. Tepi Sawah Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner from 10am - 10pm.

Map Ref: H2 Nicolas Lazzaroni heads up a team of 11 in his kitchen. Lunch menu has delicate salads, pasta dishes and light midday morsels. Dinner is a rather grander affair; Seared Scallops; Tiger Prawn Tempura; Red Pepper Crusted Chicken; Roast Pumpkin Rotolo and the best Filet Mignon this side of a number of bridges! Excellent wine list, wine cellar, a private dining roomand a lovely river view from the open-air terraces. Bumbu Bali Jl. Suweta No 1. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto. com

Map Ref: K.5 Think Belgian, think steaks - and we mean excellent tenderloin with a choice of 6 luscious sauces - frites and salads in a romantically-lit pavilion or at garden tables. Both Leefe and Hoefgaarden (famous brands of Belgium beer) are now available for those mid-day heated moments. Lunch is salads, snacks and excellent Indonesian specialities. One of Ubud's favourite hangouts and a must if you want comfort food. Café Lotus Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975660. Overlooking an

dishes, great bakeries, todie-for coffees and a healthconscious outlook. Situated on the main road just down from the Ubud market, it is a favourite with visitors from all over the world and has a reputation that extends beyond most café restaurants of its kind. Wednesday nights are Brazilian Jazz nights with music by Murni and Riwin as well as tapas and cocktails. It also offers the Luna Lounge with newspapers, CNN, movies and free Wifi, as well as its famed Honeymoon Bakery, established in 1991, using time-honoured methods and the finest ingredients to satisfy travellers from all corners of the globe. Sunday Brunches are a must. CasCades Restaurant Jl. Lanyahan, Br. Nagi. Tel: 0361-972111. Map Ref: H.15 CasCades at The Viceroy Bali is a superb fine dining experience with an inspiring menu, a good selection of fine wines, and an outstanding view across the valley.

Beduur Restaurant Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Terraced onto the hillside with outstanding panoramic views of the valley and the scenic backdrop of the temple on the opposite side of the gorge, Beduur Restaurant at Ubud Hanging Gardens resort features the delights of both Asian and French cuisine with Balinese ingredients in the serene setting of pure tranquility. The menu is innovative and superbly delicious. Bookings preferable.

Bunute Restaurant & Bar Jl.Dewi Sita. Tel: 0361-972177. Recently opened Bunute serves Balinese delights with international twists. Wine and live music make this a new venue to try.

Bridges Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-970095

Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X. Tel: 0361-972706 .

expansive lotus pond and amphitheatre in the grounds of Puri Saraswati. Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-977409. Map Ref: J.6 With its relaxed tropical atmosphere and superb selection of food, Casa Luna offers a fine selection of Balinese and Mediterranean

Cinta Grill and Inn Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975395. Map Ref: 0.7 Walk along Monkey Forest Road in Ubud and you won’t miss Cinta Grill, Ubud’s garden restaurant and pub. The inviting ambience of a spacious garden entices you in; the food and drinks convince you to return again.

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Start at the bar for a cocktail, then choose the thatched dining room, the outdoor modern garden back-dropped by an impressive Balinese gate, or chill on the cushions in the private pavilion. The menu has tantalising surprises in store, combining grill classics with an imaginative menu of salads, pastas, Asian curries, stir-fries and downhome desserts. Open daily from 8am to midnight. Coffee & Copper Jl. Nyuhbulan, Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-978631. A spacey, airy restaurant right next to the back entrance of Monkey Forest. Serving a range of healthy breakfasts, light brunches and romantic dinners. Luxurious suites available for reasonable prices. d'Bali Bistro Bintang, Jl. Sanggingan. Tel. 0361-975527 Indo-Asian cuisine with crispy duck and ribs at the fore. This sports cafe cum bistro also offers WiFi, and a big screen TV. If you are into fried ice cream look no further! Cherry Blossom Bintang, Jl. Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel. 0361-975527 This first floor restaurant offers classic dim sum, hangover perfect noodles, live sea food and lipsmacking crispy pork, organic and vegetarian dishes are also available.

Fly Café Jl. Raya Lungsiakan. Tel: 0361-975440. Ribs, ribs, beer and ribs and a great Trivial Pursuits night. GLOW at COMO Shambhala Bj. Begawan Giri, Payongan. Tel: 0361-978888. It’s rawfully good at GLOW, COMO Shambhala’s signature ‘healthful’ restaurant. Zucchini carpaccios, quinoa, red rice – everything gluten-free if need be – and all totally delicious. The hand-crafted menu is

based on the purity of the new health trend of raw food. It is not only the food that will do you good as GLOW has one of Bali’s best ravine-river views with mature trees that just burst with energy and life, whilst the open, glassaccented kitchen lets you watch the specialists prepare your ultra-fresh ingredients. Located on a private estate bookings for GLOW are essential! Han Snel Restaurant & Bar Jl. Kajeng. Tel: 0361 8410505 www.hansnelrestaurantcom

Famous Dutch Painter Han Snel's gallery located just minutes from the palace. During his time as a renowned artist, Han built Siti Bungalows and one of the first restaurant and bars in Ubud, recently re-opened and now serving excellent international cuisine by an eccentric, well-experienced 5-star hotel Chef, Erick Kurniawan. Expect a large selection of cold drinks, wireless internet and very friendly staff. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 10pm. Crazy Drink Promotions such as

DDD – David's Double Dice – get a discount and daily specials are low as Rp20,000 per meal...all to be enjoyed in the true Balinese spirit of tranquil gardens in a peaceful sanctuary. Ibu Rai Bar & Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72. Tel: 0361- 973472. Map Ref: K.8 Ibu Rai's menu is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavours and uses the best and the freshest ingredients. They serve a pleasing presentation coupled

with friendly service that adds enjoyment to any meal. Indochine Jl. Penenstanan, Sayan. Tel. 0361-972616 Map Ref. K1 Indochine offers and elegant and intimate atmosphere within the ultra-Asian opulence of The Mansion Hotel and Spa. Serving Vietnamese and French cuisine with amodern twist on light and spicy flavours from Vietnam, Indochine proves once again that is os possible to have world class fine dining in the heart of a rural paradise. The wine list is well chosen and matched exquisitely to the cuisine. Indus Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977684. Map Ref: C.4 Indus Restaurant, a fiveminute drive from the centre of Ubud, overlooks the Campuhan River and enjoys breathtaking views of the surrounding hills. On a clear day, you can see mighty Gunung Agung, in the east, and on a full-moon, there is a spectacular view from the terrace. The restaurant runs a free shuttle service between Indus, Casa Luna and the Honeymoon Guesthouses. With its mouth–watering menu, eclectic gallery and breathtaking views of the Campuhan River, it’s easy to see why Indus has been an Ubud favourite for nearly

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foremost for offering Bali’s most interesting and delicious selection of Indonesian food, Batan Waru also caters to other tastes. Rice, pasta and bread lovers will find lots to eat for lunch and dinner. Open daily from 8am to midnight. Kagemusha Jl. Pengosekan. Tel 0361-973134. A secret success story, Kagemusha is a friendly Japanese restaurant serving home-cooked cuisine in a serene atmosphere with a good view.

10 years. Salsa nights on Mondays. Jazz Café Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya. Tel: 0361-976594. Map Ref: M.12 Cool jazz at arguably Ubud's hottest nightspot. The first live jazz venue of the island, with a lively and popular restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine and a variety of salads, healthy fare, excellent kebabs and fresh juices. Choose from airconditioned bliss inside or traditional pavilion seating in the garden. Live music nightly except Mondays. Kafe Jl. Hanoman no. 44B, Padang Tegal. Telp: 0361-7803802. The destination for the yoga

crew and anyone looking to feel at home when so far away. It is also the hangout for the regular expat community, overseas course-takers and overnight Ubudites. The menu is organic and healthy, varied and reasonable. And, if you just want to read your book and have a decent coffee, you can do that too! Open daily from 8am to 11pm. Kafe Arma Jalan Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742, 976659 This pavilion-style open air café offers delicious Indonesian and international influenced cuisine. All dishes are cooked by internationally trained chefs and served in a relaxed and comfortable ambience. Kafe ARMA also provides authentic Italian

cuisine and a large selection of drinks and cocktails at the bar. The cafe holds an Organic Farm Market every Wednesday from 8am-2pm. Kafe ARMA is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Dewi Sita. Tel: 0361-977528. Everyone knows Batan Waru. Conveniently located in the heart of Ubud, (and now directly across the street from the Waterbom Park in Kuta) any time of the week, Kafe Batan Waru has something for you. Rated Bali’s “Best Indonesian restaurant”, this perpetually popular café serves up an imaginative menu of Indonesian and Balinese favourites in a charming setting. Known

Kemiri at Uma Jl. Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-972448. Map Ref: B.4 The Uma cuisine team have created an Indonesian menu with flavours fit for a king. Sit beside a waterfall that spills into a Koi pond in the midst of tropicalia and savour Southeast Asian cooking as well as traditional Balinese cuisine. The healthy COMO Shambhala menu is also available. Open breakfast, lunch and dinner with à la carte or set menus. Full moon dinners come highly recommended as does Uma Teatime. Kokokan Club Jl. Raya Pengosekan.Telp: 0361-975742, 976659 www. Elegant dining in the oldworld atmosphere of Kokokan Club's Balinese style openair restaurant. Rejuvenate

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yourself with an exotic range of Asian Cuisine, prepared by the internationally trained chef, specialising in delightful Thai dishes. Relax in the tranquil Kokokan Restaurant, situated within the peaceful surroundings of ancient rice terraces and water-gardens. Kudus at COMO Bj. Begawan Giri, Payangan Tel: 0361-978888. An exquisite 150-year-old prince’s abode seemingly hangs over the Ayung River Valley and sets the scene for eating some of the palatial delicacies that Indonesian royal families from past eras enjoyed. Open for dinner only. Bookings essential. Kué Bakery Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975249. Our answer to glucose withdrawals, Kue just takes the biscuit and bakes the cake (in face it bakes 15 types of bread daily). It also boasts a fabulous upstairs eatery which is very well regarded. Open daily from 8am–10pm. Laka - Leke Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-977565. Related to the excellent Cafe Wayan on Monkey Forest Rd, at Laka Leke sit amongst lily ponds in pavilions and listen to the sound of frogs, and the food is as good as at Cafe Wayan. Lamak Restaurant & Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-974668. Stylishly modern traditional dining featuring steel interior designed by renowned sculptor Pintor Sirait. Little K Jl. Pengosekan - Padang, Tegal Ubud (Bali Spirit Yoga Barn’s Garden). Tel: 0361-970992. Awesome fresh breakfasts and lunches. Sit in the garden and umbrellas provided. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 4pm with Wifi also!

Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-970928. Map Ref: P.7 A cosy, vibrant and fun place to share tapas and sangria. The little sister of Jazz Cafe, the music is a treat, with great playlists and live gigs on Monday and Thursday, 8-11pm. Free Wi-fi 9am-6pm.

Maya Sari Mas Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Tel: 0361-977888. Map Ref: K.17

Maya Ubud's signature restaurant brings the best of local and imported ingredients to the table. International in flavour, each dish has been carefully crafted to inspire and please the international clientelle. Right next door is Maya Sari Asiatique, complete with a Teppanyaki counter and a myriad of Asian cuisines from Indonesian to Indian. Minami Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-970013. Map Ref: B.4

Minami is an extremely highquality Japanese restaurant with food tastes that are subtle and delicate. The large, double-ceilinged, three-sided dining room opens onto a garden courtyard, with only eight well-spaced tables inside and a couple more in the garden. Pure classic white and garden green predominate. The food is exquisite Japanese fare, beautifully prepared with delicious variety. Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud.

Telp: 975768 Map ref: B.3 Enter Mozaic's Balinese doorway and you are guaranteed an evening of repose and pure enjoyment. A walkway leads you into a tropical garden and pavilion dining. The chef's Degustation or tasting menu offers you the ocassion to truly savour what is a parade of ever-changing culinary creations. Mozaic and Chef Chris Salans have been honoured around the world for the excellence of their cuisine, and the beauty of the setting, by being selected by the prestigous Traditions & Qualite as one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde. The wine list is also a favourite choice of Wine Spectator. Top class. Reservations essential. Murni’s Warung Campuhan. Tel: 0361- 975233. Shaded and riverside, Murni’s has been welcoming guests to lovely food and her eclectic antique and handicaft shop for years. Naughty Nuri’s Warung Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-977547. Best ribs, best sashimi tuna (Thursdays only), best grills, best mash – all topped off with draught beer, a Bloody Mary or a superb Martini. Some claim the latter are among the tastiest in the world, and we would have to agree (hic). Genial owner Brian is usualy on hand in a

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corner seat somewhere, ready to welcome you into a world of enjoyment that may start over a quiet beer and extend late into the night. Seating here is a free-for-all...just sit down and take your chances. Naughty Nuri’s (named after Brian’s charming wife Nuri) is also something of a legend with Japanese and Chinese tourists, not to mention hordes from Jakarta who trek here on a regular basis, making sure this is one of the busiest and most popular restaurants in Bali, let alone Ubud. In fact sometimes it’s impossible to get a seat. So go early and enjoy the food, ambience and ribaldry of what has become a legendary roadside establishment. Nomad Restaurant 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K10 Opened back in 1979 and an institution among travellers to Ubud for three decades, Nomad Restaurant is a popular gathering place for people of all nationalities, there to sample the local, Asian fusion and Western food from an eclectic menu that boasts a few special treats – Nomad-style Martabak, Fresh Prawn Lakso and a selection of Balinese tapas. Open from 9am every day, Nomad Restaurant uses no MSG or other food additives, and the staff is delightful. Nuri’s Nacho Mamas Jl. Raya Sanggingan.

Tel: 0361-977547. Just as it sounds...a part of Tijuana in Ubud with the added value of Nuri’s ribs if Nuri’s is crowded! Palm Grove Elephant Safari Park, Taro Tel: 0361-721480 A four-course fine dining experience like no other. Sit under the stars and palm fronds of Bali's pachyderm estate and enjoy excellent food and wine in one of Bali's most original and beautiful locations. Boasting rights and getting to tick off one of those 100-things-to-do boxes is definitely part of the evening. Bookings are a must. Plantation Dining Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963. Map Ref: A.2 Think regal coconut columns and a 180 degree view of valley, river and tropical forest. Plantation Dining is Alila Ubud's dining venue specialising in Plantation Cuisine. Bold yet simple, fresh and organic, the menu offers both local, Asian and international dishes using the finest ingredients carefully crafted under the watchful eye of the Executive Chef Eelke Plasmeijer. Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-978520. Eat in, take away or delivery!

Pundi-Pundi Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361 -3084005 Map ref: U.8 Pundi-Pundi Grill & Asian restaurant sits right in the heart of Ubud serving the likes of Grilled Baby Back Pork Ribs, Pundi Grilled Duck and Nasi Bakar Lotus.

food guru – came, saw and passed on the knowledge to master chef Made Runatha. This vegan eatery, set in an ecological master–build bamboo pavilion, awakens your taste buds with healthful organic ingredients. If you thought vegan food was less than appetising, it's time you tasted again.

Rendezvous Doux Jl. Raya Ubud.

Siam Sally Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-980777. siam-sally Map Ref: V.9 After years of exploring the food of Thailand, and intensive cooking with Thai home chefs, the owners of Siam Sally have finally introduced excellent Thai cuisine to Ubud. Popular among tourists and locals alike, Siam Sally delivers fresh, homestyle Thai food in a spectacular setting. You can start your journey on the comfy sofas downstairs with an innovative cocktail menu and some shared food. Co-owner/chef Karen Waddell starts you off with Roasted green chili “salsa” with rice cracker, Siam Palace Lom dip, or the hawker stall favorite, Hoy Tod, a crisp mussel fritter served with a housemade fiery Sriracha chili sauce. Curries are cooked up with house-ground spice pastes and fresh coconut milk, and the market style noodle dishes are fabulous, ditto the wok-seared creations and Fried Chicken and Som Tam papaya salad, a recipe

Tel: 0361-7470163 International airconditioned library and cafe with all-day screenings. Ryoshi Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-972192. Dependable Japanese food on two levels and tatami seating. Sakti Living Foods Restaurant Fivelements Healing Centre Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 Neil Harden – raw and living

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inspired by a favourite food stall in Bangkok’s Jatujak market. Non Thai food and Vegan also available. Open seven days a week. Early dining birds (seated by 7pm) get a 20 percent discount when booking Table Five (food only). Terazzo Jl. Suweta. Tel: 0361-978941. Map ref: H.8 London’s Financial Times described Terazo as having food at a “price and quality that would embarrass your average London restaurateur”. And it’s true, Terazo delivers ultra-fresh pan-Asian and international cuisine in stylish surroundings. Located in Ubud on quiet Suweta Street, just a stone’s throw from the centre of town, Terazo restaurant and bar is designed in a colonial modern style by international design firm Hananto Lloyd. It features banquette dining, a stylish lounge and mahogany bar downstairs. Casual glam awaits you in the dining room upstairs. Open daily from 10am to midnight, Terazo offers exquisite food and wine from across the globe. Three Monkeys Café Jl. Monkey Forest. Tel: 0361-975554. Excellent starters and the desserts are mouthwatering.

The Green House Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest.

Tel: 0361-978189. Pan-Asian cuisine in a modern luxury glasshouse setting, to be followed by a chill–out session with cocktails upstairs in the Party Lounge.

West End Café Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-978363. In Ubud’s flourishing west end (Mozaic, Nuri’s, Minami et al) is the West End Café. The cool and colourful décor is a

affordable prices.

Warung Buddha Bar & Grill Jl. Goutama. Tel: 8686705 Open for lunch and dinner with live big-match broadcasts from ESPN, Star Sports, Euro Sports and others.

welcoming respite to guests in need of food, refreshment and a place to relax.

and most thorough healing centre. Riverside treatments rooms transport you into another world. Two healing pools – Watsu and Water Dancing – realign your vibration, and Bali's top healing hands cleanse, support and reawaken your very soul. Bookings essential.

Warung Enak Jl. Raya Pangosekan. Tel: 0361-972911. Excellent Balinese and local fare with some highly amusing, if a tad risque, decor!

S SPAS Eve Body Treatment Centre Eve 1: Jl. Penestanan Kelod. Tel: 0361-979356. Eve 2 & 3: Jl. Monkey Forest, Tel: 0361-7470910 & 973236. The Day Spa Specialists. Eve – Body Treatment Centre offers professional service at

Fivelements Banjar Baturning, Mambal. Tel: 0361-469206 Welcome to Ubud's newest

KUSH Jl Hanoman. Tel: 0361-971 236 Map Ref: O.10 Happiness in name (Sanskrit)

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and happiness in aim balance, calm, strength and contentment through an incredible variety of massages and treatments. From gentle Abhyanga to Kati Basti, through a Hot House session in the Infra-red sauna. Facials, hand and feet rituals using ancient Indian techniques promote cellular healing and alleviate strains of Modern Day existence and put one in the Ubud frame of mind. Time to turn off your handphone! Spa Alila Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963. Map Ref: A.2 Spa addicts unite. The Spa Alila has created a total concept for die-hard Alilaites. Using their own blended products and those of Decleor, the Alila therapists wrap you in seaweed, masage you with warm stones, relax you with frankincense resin, even tend to your Third Eye with Shirodara. When having an Alila treatment think fresh ingredients that smell sublime... Spa Villas at Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma. Tel: 0361-971933. Map Ref: L.4 The resort’s Spa Villa concept boasts four single treatment villas and two double spa villas overlooking the Campuhan river. Treatments include traditional Indonesian

beauty and massage therapies. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977888. Map Ref: K.18 Below the hotel nestles the riverside Spa at Maya...a haven of sensual bliss with double treatment pavillions

Taman Rahasia Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Tel: 0361-979395. Affordable treatments in the gardens of The Secret Garden. Birds sing, flowers scent the air and the masssages just flow... Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng 35. Tel: 0361-974393.

and a spa treatment list that includes a gentle four–hand massage, relaxing Balinese massage, natural facials and body scrubs and treatments tailor-made for men. Look out over Mumbul river and treat yourself to a number of beauty and semi-medical treatments, colonics, fasting programmes and retreats.

Skin Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24. Tel: 0361 975 615 Petite, authentic skin spa on Goutama, Ubud's upand-coming 'chic street'. Natural nail polish, fresh blended oils, facials using oxygen products, jamu drinks, all-natural scrubs, aloe vera extracts. Expert waxing, only certified therapists, sterilized equipment, and pure ingredients ... genuine quality, traditionally inspired.

Kirana Spa Desa Kedewatan. Telp: 0361-976333. Uma Ubud Spa Jl. Sanggingan. Telp: 0361-972448. Map Ref: B.5 This Zen inspired spa already calms the spirit on entering. Add to that the excellence of COMO Shambhala’s exclusive products and unique massage therapies and one has, quite simply, entered heaven.

T TEXTILES Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur-textiles. com. Map Ref: L.7 Unique and varied collection of woven and hand-dyed textiles, clothes and sarongs from all over the Indonesian Archipelago. Many with storytelling themes such as the Western tapestries, but woven instead of knotted or sewn. Threads of Life Jl. Kajeng 24. Tel: 0361-976581 & 976582. Maintaining and promoting traditional forms of weaving and cloth making, Threads of Life Gallery works closely with weavers from the Islands of Savu and the rest of the Indonesian archipelago. Handmade traditional textiles from Bali, Flores, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Sumba and Timor are exhibited at the gallery. In the dry months check out their specialised 'Weaving tours' around the islands of Nusa Tenggara east of Bali. Open daily from 10am-7pm.

U UDENG Traditional headcloth worn

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like an exclusive and intimate ceremony. Packages start at $1,558. Maya offers you the full spectrum of wedding services, from spa treatments to photography and entertainment.

by men; called ‘dastar’ in high Balinese.

V VEDAS Four holy books of the Aryans, dating from about 1,000BC; the Aryans were not Hindu, but they laid some of the most important foundations of Hinduism; the Vedas are considered sacred by Balinese Hindus; the Rig Veda is the best known of the four and is probably the oldest religious text in the world.

W WALKING Just go! There are many wonderful walks in every direction from Ubud, through villages, rice terraces, jungle gorges, and grassy hilltops.

Don’t be afraid. Just strike out in any direction. You can walk anywhere you like, without “trespassing”. Don’t be shy, just be courteous. The best of the Ubud area is off the roads, so grab a map, or just go rambling without one. Often the best discoveries are purely coincidental and can’t be found in any guidebook. If you prefer to follow a good leader, day treks are offered by adventure guides under our Adventure listing. WEDDINGS Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge .com Featured in international television travel programmes, getting married atop an elephant - with your entourage

hanging out in a traditional Javanese pavilion surrounded by 30ft commemorative wedding flags - is one of those events that will make a lifetime dream come true, you will even have the photos and videos to prove it! (In reality wedding vows take place on the ground). Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan. Tel: 0361-977 888. Map Ref: K.18 Maya Ubud is a truly stunning property that sits on the bend of a river amid established tropical forest. It oozes Bali chic, so it's no surprise that this is a popular spot for weddings, whether large or small. More than 100 rooms and villas set in equatorial Bali bliss give you the option of a big event that still feels

Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Tel: 0361-972448. Map ref: A.2 With just 29 rooms, Uma Ubud offers the opportunity for an exclusive wedding for up to 60 guests in a lush contemporary property that oozes style and sophistication. Take over the entire property or opt for a more intimate wedding a deux or with a small group of close friends. Uma is part of the worldclass Como brand, so you'll be in good company whichever way you decide to go. Wanasmara Chapel, Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma Ubud Tel: 0361-971933. Map Ref: L.4 Wanasmara Chapel is built as a place to celebrate love! Wonderfully positioned among the tropical treetops and dense foliage alongside the Campuhan River, the Chapel is made almost entirely of wood and glass, with a unique touch of Toraja thrown in. Capable of seating 48 guests, this is truly a stunning setting in which to tie the knot. Basic wedding packages start at US$2900++. For more details, email

the list

WILDLIFE Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Singapadu, Batubulan. Tel: 0361-299352. Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra, Gianyar. Tel: 0361-950000. www.balisafarimarinepark. com Bali Zoo Singapadu, Gianyar. Tel: 0361- 294357 Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. Part of the respected Bali Adventure Tours company, the Elephant Safari Park at Taro is a world class retreat for pachyderms and their admirers. This is an extremely well put together attraction guaranteed to be a hit with all the family. An official member of the World Zoo Association, the Park meets International Standards for animal care and is set in more than 3.5 hectares of exotic eco-landscaped botanical gardens, surrounded by national forest. Facilities include a full Reception and Information Centre, a comprehensive Museum, with a large collection of elephant memorabilia and the only Mammoth Skeleton in South East Asia. Elephants can be seen bathing in the park lake, in between riding, painting

or other activities. Handfeed them, touch them, take photos with them, then learn more about the elephants ancestry and diversity at the Park’s historical and graphic displays. It’s all about the elephants, however – get up close and personal with these incredible animals in a beautiful tropical park setting. You can also stay in one of 25 luxury lodges set within the grounds, or simply visit for the day. WORKSHOPS Sari Api Ceramic Studio Ceramic Workshop Jl. Suweta 176 Bentuyung, Tel: 0361-977917. sariapi Cultural Workshop Agung Rai Museum of Art. Jl. Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-975742. Nirvana Batik Courses Nirvana, Jl. Gautama 10, Padangtegal Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975415. Pranoto’s Art Gallery Private Painting Lessons Pranoto’s Art Gallery. Jl. Raya Ubud, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Telp: 0361-970827. Silversmithing Courses Studio Perak. Jl. Hanoman. Tel: 0361-7801879.

Thread’s of Life Gallery Jl. Kajeng 24 Ubud. Tel: 0361-972187.

Y YAYASAN/CHARITIES Yayasan Bumi Sehat Nyuh Kuning, PO Box 116, Ubud, Bali 80571. Tel: 0361-972969. Yayasan IDEP Jl. Hanoman No. 42. Telp: 0361- 981504. YOGA Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan. Tel: 0361-977824 The Yoga Barn Jl. Pengoseken, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-970992. Map Ref: O.10 Bali’s premier yoga centre located in the heart of Ubud. Offers yoga classes, pilates,

dance, meditation, detox & cleansing, teacher trainings, special events, workshops and retreats. An instant connection to holistic Bali. Uma Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan Tel: 0361-972448. Map Ref: B.4 Stretch and Savour, every Sunday at Uma Ubud Yoga Studio is a must attend program that will certainly give you a stretching and savoring impression. This is the "Stretch and Savor" Sunday Yoga Breakfast. For Rp. 295,000 ++ per person you will experience a one hour yoga session starting at 8:00 a.m. followed by breakfast showcasing healthful COMO Shambhala Cuisine. Wear something comfortable, leave all the hustle and bustle, and head to Uma Ubud. Tel: 975 024

the list

Performance Schedules





Legong of Mahabarata Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) The Peliatan Master Janger Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Dancers & Musician of Peliatan Pondok Pekak Gamelan & Dance

Ubud Palace Padang Tegal Kaja Oka Kartini Arma Museum Lotus Pond Open Stage Bentuyung Village*** Batukaru Temple Balerung Mandera Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30

I.7 O.8 K.12 U.10 1.7 – – – J.7





Legong Dances Kecak Fire (Monkey Chant Dance) Barong & Keris Dance Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Women Gamelan & Dance Group Legong Telek Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet)

Ubud Palace Junjungan Village *** Wantilan Pura Dalem Ubud Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod ARMA Museum *** Pondok Bamboo

7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00

I.7 – – H.5 J.7 U.10 –





Ramayana Ballet Spirit of Bali Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Pupet) Legong Dance Legong Dance Women Gamelan w/Children Dancers Narita Dewi Gamelan & Dance

Ubud Palace Pura Desa Kutuh Padang Tegal Kelod Monkey Forest Balerung Stage *** Pura Dalem Ubud Lotus Pond Open Stage Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30

I.7 J.12 Q.9 S.6 – H.5 I.7 J.7





Legong & Barong Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Topeng Jimat Chandra Wira Buana

Ubud Palace Oka Kartini Yamasari Stage *** Padang Tegal Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 8.00 7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.00 7.30

I.7 K.12 N.14 M.9 H.5 – U.10 J.7

the list

Performance Schedules





Legong Trance & Paradise Dance Kecak (Monkey Chant Dance) Legong Dance The Barong & Keris Dance Barong & Keris Dance with Children Dancers Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Mepantigan Arts

Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Pura Desa Kutuh *** Pura Dalem Ubud Ubud Water Palace Pura Taman Sari Batukaru Temple Pondok Bamboo ARMA Museum ***

7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 6.30

I.7 – J.12 H.5 I.7 – – S.6 X.10





Barong Dance Legong & Barong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Barong & Keris Dance Women's Gamelan

Ubud Palace Balerung Stage Pura Padang Kertha Oka Kartini Bentuyung Village *** Pura Dalem Ubud ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod

7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.00 7.30 6.00 7.30

I.7 – P.9 K.12 – H.5 U.10 J.7





Legong Dance Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Frog Dance Beauty of Legong Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Wong

Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Padang Tegal Monkey Forest Ubud Water Palace Pondok Pekak Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum ***

7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.00

I.7 – M.9 S.6 I.7 M.8 H.5 – U.10

EVERY 1ST. AND 15TH: Gambuh Dance VENUE: Pura Desa Batuan *** TIME: 7.00 PM EVERY FULL MOON & NEW MOON: Kecak Rina Dance VENUE: ARMA Museum *** TIME: 7.00 PM *** Free transport from Ubud Tourist Information, ask them for detail (0361) 973285. Entrance fees are between Rp. 50.000,to Rp. 150.000,Ticket for these performances can obtained at: Ubud Tourist Information, Jl. Raya Ubud, phone : 973285; ticket sellers on the street or the place of the performances. The price is the same wherever you buy it.

advertisers' directory

HEALTH Bali Spirit Tel: 0361 - 971236 IFC Bud Map O.10 Sayan Aesthetic Institute Tel: 0361- 972648 www. P. 38 Bud Map D.3 Skin Organic Tel: 0361- 975615 rsvp@ubudSkinORGANIC. com P. 38 Bud Map L.9 HOTEL Alila Ubud Tel: 0361- 975963 P. 5 Bud Map A.2 Arma Resort Tel: 0361- 976659 P. 17 Bud Map W.10 Bali Wood Resort Tel: 0361- 972640 P. 38 Bebek Tepi Sawah Villas Tel: 0361- 970388 P. 6 Bud Map E.6 Bidadari Private Villas Tel: 0361- 9000401 www.bidadarivillasubudbali. com P. 19 Como Shambhala Tel: 0361- 978888

P. 7

Bud Map A.3

Desa Kerasan Tel: 0361- 9000566 P. 7 Bud Map K.12 Komaneka Tel: 0361- 976090 P. 2 Bud Map L.4/P.7 Maya Ubud Tel: 0361- 977888 P. 15 Bud Map L.18 Puri Tupai Tel: 0361- 981655 P. 15 Bud Map Z.9 The Mansion Tel: 0361- 972616 P. 38 Bud Map A.2 Ubud Hanging Gardens Tel: 0361- 982700 www.ubudhanginggardens. com P. 1 Bud Map A.2 Uma Ubud Tel: 0361- 972448 P. 8 Bud Map A.3 MEDIA Mango Vision P. 73 The Yak Online Tel: 0361 - 8446341 P. 89, 95

GALLERY Bali Wood Gallery Tel: 0361- 972640 P. 38 Bud Map D.3 Infinity Tel: 0361 - 972500 P. 17 Bud Map K.7 RECREATION Bali Adventure Tours Tel: 0361 - 721480 www.baliadventuretours. com P. IBC Bud Map C.3 RESTAURANT Ary’s Warung Tel: 0361- 975053 P. 3 Bud Map I.7 Bebek Tepi Sawah Rest Tel: 0361- 970388 P. 6 Bud Map E.6 Bridges Bali Tel: 0361- 970095 P. 13 Bud Map H.2 CafÊ Des Artistes Ubud Tel: 0361- 972706 P. 15 Bud Map K.5 Cherry Blossom Tel: 0361- 975527 P. 73 Ibu Rai Restaurant Tel: 0361- 973472 P. 10 Bud Map K.8

Indochine Tel: 0361- 972616 P. 38 Bud Map D.3 Jazz Cafe Tel: 0361- 976594 P. 11 Bud Map L.12 Laughing Buddha Bar Tel: 0361- 970928 P. 11 Bud Map P.6 Mozaic Tel: 0361- 975768 P. 8 Bud Map B.3 SHOP Anjaly Bali Tel: 0361- 971599 P. 11 Bud Map N.9 Biasa Fashion Tel: 0361- 8878002 BC Bud Map A.3 Hatten Wines Tel: 0361- 767422 P. 6 Periplus P. 73 Bud Map C.3 Threads Of Life Tel: 0361- 972187 P. 13 Bud Map H.7

distribution list

NATIONAL & INTERNATIONAL The Bud is available in selected outlets in Jakarta, Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei, in airport and hotel business lounges, as well as in selected villas, hotels and partner venues in Seminyak and throughout Bali. NATIONAL The Bud is also on sale in outlets of Circle K stores in Bali, including Seminyak, Kuta, Legian, Tuban, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Denpasar and Sanur, and at selected distribution points in Ubud, including Periplus bookstores at Monkey Forest, Bintang Supermarket and Tino’s, as well as in Ary’s Bookshop, Alila Shop Ubud, Coffee & Silver, Fly Cafe Restaurant, Komaneka Shop, Laughing Buddha, Murni’s Warung and Verona salon. VENUE COPIES Alila Hotel Ubud Adi’s Gallery Ubud Amandari Resort Ubud

Arma Resort Ary’s Warung Aston Nandini Bali Animal Welfare Association Bali Masari Villas Bali Spirit Bali Bird Park BARC Bar Luna Batan Waru Restaurant Bumbu Bali Bumi Sehat Café Des Artistes Casa Luna Restaurant Cinta Restaurant Coffee & Silver Como Shambhala Dirty Duck Elephant Safari Park Esthetique Clinic Fly Café Four Seasons Sayan Galaxyan Jewelry Gaya Gallery Green School Bali Highway Horizon Glassworks Macan Tidur Maya Ubud Resort and Spa Mozaic Bali Ibu Rai Restaurant

Indochine Restaurant Indus Restaurant Jazz Café Restaurant JFF Jewelry Kamandalu Kayu Manis Villa Komaneka Kori Resort Kupu-Kupu Barong Lamak Restaurant Laughing Buddha Bar Maya Hotel Ubud Minami Mozaic Restaurant Murni’s Warung Museum Rudana Nacho Mamas Naughty Nuri’s Neka Museum Nomad Restaurant Paul Ropp Pundi - Pundi Restaurant Rendezvousdoux Restaurant Royal Pita Maha Resort and Villas Seniwati Gallery Siam Sally Skin Organic Sobek Adventure Rafting Tama Gallery Taman Hati Tegal Sari

Terazo Restaurant The Chedi Club The Green House The Mansion Hotel The Shop The Viceroy Bali/Cascades Three Monkeys Cafe Tony Raka Ubud Treasures Tutmak Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens Ubud Property Ubud Sari Ubud Village Resort Uma Hotel Ubud Verona Salon Warwick Ibah Hotel Ubud West End Café Wina Gallery

THE BUD is in 33 outlets of Mini Mart stores in Bali.

to Como Shambhala, Alila & Komaneka


Money changer

Sports field





To Elephant Safari Park








Bali Spirit Tegun The Kafe


Padang Tegal Dirty Duck



Peliatan NGGA JL. SE RO

Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana Sacred Monkey Forest Santuary Entrance fee: Adults Rp. 15,000 Children Rp. 7,500

Coffee & Copper


Laka Leke


Gemala Jewelery Pizza Bagus

Nyuh Kuning

Bamboo Foundation

Siam Sally

Cafe arma




Pundi-Pundi Warung Enak



Agung Rai Gallery




Pura Gunung Sari








Bumbu Bali II sisi + nanan KOMANEKA Three Monkeys Laughing Buddha Cinta UBUD INN Verona



Coffee & Silver Tanah Merah

Pura Dalem Agung Temple






Milano Bodyworks Lamak



Alamkara UBUD VILLAGE HOTEL Cafe Wayan Greenhouse Wah Tama Gallery






Pura Prajapati Cemetary


Post office















Police station

Boll Bat ero Res Alaman Waru to kara






Ubud Klod


Place of interest

Deer pen

Taman Klod To Desa White Kerasan Box Rendezvous 018: Gusti Lempad’s 00 Seniwati Gallery Super of Art by Women Adi’s Art Market Galaxyan Atelier Kupu Kupu Studio & Foundation Gallery Gallery Infinity Market Ubud Nomad Neka Gallery Gallery Property Highway Place Exotiq Sagu Cafe Des Macan Ibu Rai Artistes Galaxyan Tidur JL. COK PUTRA S. Atelier Pura Ganesha Jazz JL. D Dalem Puri EWI Bookstore Cafe SITA Sukma Sk in Organic Tutmak Bali Pondok Pekak Library Buddha Siwa Ratih Deli Hanoman Anjaly Cat Juice Bar Bali Casa Luna Ary’s Warung



Dance theatre


Rio JF-F Helmi Terazo Bumbu Bali I Ibu Oka


Blanco Renaissance Museum




Bridges Bali



Art Zoo


To Bidadari Villas



One way street


Ubud Kaja UBUD SARI Threads of Life Han Puri Lukisan Snel JL. RAY Murni’s AU Warung BUD








Rudana Museum Mas Tony Raka Gallery





Tanah Gajah

Monkey forest

Automatic teller



KAYU MANIS to Fivelements to The Samaya Horizon Glassworks

Art gallery








Payangan Tegalalang Kusia Gallery West End Cafe UMA UBUD THE VICEROY BALI Cascades Neka Museum INDUS Mozaic Warung Pulau Kelapa Bali Adventure Rafting PITA MAHA P Gaya Gallery Paul Roepriplus p The Shop UBUD FOUR SEASONS THE MANSION BEBEK TEPI SAWAH Sayan Aesthetic RESTAURANT & VILLAS VILLA KIRANA



KUPU KUPU BARONG AMANDARI Minami Biasa Naughty Nuri’s



Agung Rai Museum of Art ARMA RESORT Flava Lounge

Hanna Art Space Gajah Gallery

Dangin Lebak





To Genta Gallery









To Tony Raka Gallery

To Puri Tupai



Rudana Rudana Museum










Environmental activist David Küper founded Ubud Rotary and now runs a recycling facility in the village of Temesi that processes 50 tons of waste per day – organically.

David, where are you from originally? Although I was born in 1942 and raised in Zürich, Switzerland, I'm rather a mixture as my family hails from many European countries. What is your background professionally/personally? I have a master's degree in organic-technical chemistry but worked only five years as a chemist. Then, to pursue my interests in economics and business, I entered a leading business school and got an MBA. After a stint in a cosmetic company, I took on my last professional job in an American high tech life science company, from which I retired at the tender age of 54 as country and Divisional Central European Manager. When did you move to Indonesia? What do you do with life when you have the luxury to retire early? The actual reason for retirement from professional/ business life was that I was offered the management of major Swiss development projects in Indonesia for three years. Why did you make the move? I liked this Jakarta-based job as a welcomed compensation for working half my life for Wall Street and shareholder values. Moving to Indonesia meant also moving into the arms of Madé,

a Balinese with whom I've now been married for 15 years. She is also the reason why we moved to Ubud. How long have you lived here and what changes have you noticed in that time? I’ve lived in Ubud for 11 years. Although changes to the better are slow and thus only noticeable over the years, there are positive changes. The government became significantly better, dealing with the authorities became easier and the choice in shops increased significantly. Negative changes are mostly traffic related. How and when did you become involved with the issues surrounding waste disposal and recycling? When we founded the Rotary Club of Ubud in 2001, we decided to run large projects that would serve large parts of the population. We chose waste management and HIV prevention. I took over waste because in dealing with it, my background gave me a comparative advantage. What does your project involve? The solution to the Indonesian waste problem can be divided into three steps: waste processing, waste collection and public campaigning. The logic told us to start with waste processing

and let the others follow in order to avoid increasing the problem. The objective of the project since its inception was to build a low-cost, low-tech and low-risk model facility for South-east Asia that works under the Kyoto Protocol. That meant transparency and using adequate and locally available technology. The registration under the Clean Development Mechanisms of the Kyoto Protocol will yield over one million dollars for the reduction of 80,000 tons of greenhouse gases the project achieves by processing 50 tons of waste per day. We will use this money to co-finance copies of our model facility. The waste is composed of about 85 per cent organics that we turn into compost, about five per cent recyclable material and 10 per cent residue that goes to the landfill. Can you tell us about the successes you’ve had since you became involved in the recycling project? The objective is achieved and the project received a lot of official and practical recognition. The one we are most proud of is winning first place as showcase project in the Asia-Pacific region, awarded in 2008 by the United Nations Environment Program. On the practical side there is an increasing momentum to copy our project elsewhere. The mathematics is obvious as the following example for a managed landfill with a useful life of 10 years shows. If such a landfill would cost US$5million, an upstream copy of our recycling facility for such a landfill would cost an additional US$1 million. It would increase the useful life of the landfill by a factor 10 as it reduces the waste volume by 90 per cent. Of course nobody builds a landfill for 100 years, so much smaller landfills with much smaller investments become feasible. The Indonesian Ministry of Public Works has realized this potential and together with the Swiss and German governments plans US$100 million worth of managed landfills that take advantage of the synergy with a recycling facility. Where is the project located? The project is located in the village of Temesi – two kilometers east of Gianyar. The population welcomed the project as it reduced problematic emissions from the old landfill and created over 100 new jobs that are needed to process 50 tons of Gianyar waste per day. The old pilot plant was transformed into an environmental park that educates visitors about waste and climate change. The environmental park as well as the recycling facility under a 5,000 square meter roof is built on the old landfill, which was thus restored in a park and a recycling facility. For more information you can visit our website at www. .

How is the project funded? The funding for the original pilot plant and the environment park came from Rotary and USAID. The larger investment for the 5,000 square meter recycling facility came from the Swiss and Canadian government as well as from Kuoni – an international Swiss tour operator. Kuoni also buys our greenhouse gas reductions to allow its personnel and customers to eliminate their carbon footprint when they travel. We also took loans that we have to repay eventually from the money we get from the Kyoto Protocol. Do you receive support from the local authorities? The Gianyar Regency was always helpful by letting us use government land free of charge and giving assistance in regulatory affairs; the national government supplied us with a wheel loader, while a lot of people gave us moral support. However to become sustainable, the project needs to become able to sell the 15 tons of first quality aerobic compost it produces daily. This isn't yet the case and we need all the help we can get from the people and government of Bali to cover our cost and to keep this model alive. In your opinion is the disposal of waste the most pressing issue confronting Bali in general and Ubud in particular? My opinion is that there are four important issues to be addressed in Bali. The local population probably would put health and schooling in the first place, which is a great burden for it. We expats probably see waste and traffic as the biggest problem. In Ubud, traffic is in a threefold crisis. There is a total lack of discipline: parking space is blocked by business employees or (other forms of) transport – too many big busses obstruct traffic on roads that are too small. Are you having success in changing attitudes to waste disposal? We changed attitudes on the national government level. However, as we believe that first enough waste processing capacity must be built before the collection and waste behavior is addressed, we do little campaigning and use only the environmental park to change waste behavior. This park gets a lot of visits from schools and that is the audience we want to address. On the provincial level, we expect a lot of good to come from the Governor's "Bali Green and Clean" initiative. Are you happy living on the island? It was the best decision I ever made to retire in Bali. If you can assimilate and have a Balinese family, life on this island is as good as it can be.


Orgone Gallery.

Whether you're an avid collector of artistsic gems or you've just got a gorgeous blank wall to fill, Ubud has a gallery or art museum to suit you, writes artist Neal Adams as he profiles a selection of the most renowned.

FIRST off, a little about our author. Neal Adams is a painter and avid student of art history who has immersed himself in theory and technique and worked in the art world since he was in his mid-teens. Now in his early 40s, Neal moved to Bali from his native England in 2003 to pursue his dream of being a full-time professional painter. And to develop his particular style, which features extensive metallic glazing – in the manner made famous by Gustav Klimt, amongst others. Neal is captivated by nature’s various accents and eccentricities – motifs that are oft reflected in his substantial body of work. He has featured in numerous exhibitions in England, Indonesia, Singapore, Hong Kong and the U.S. Neal’s works can be viewed at Orgone Gallery – which is run by his wife, Ayu – in Jalan Raya, Sanginggan, Ubud. We at The Bud thought it would be a good idea to take advantage of Neal’s extensive knowledge of the world of painting, in particular, and artistic endeavor, in general, and let him guide us through some of Ubud’s galleries and museums. Listings are in alphabetical order. Enjoy. ARMA (Agung Rai Museum of Art), Pengosekan, Ubud: You are immediately presented with a beautiful garden museum

with extensive lotus ponds, reflecting tropical incandescence, and the over-riding cadence of fine art works from local and international artists, from the modernist abstract style of Madé Sumadiyasa to traditional Kamasan-esque works of I Ketut Ngendon and I Ketut Budyana. The museum also displays works by well-known painters of the past: Walter Spies; Rudolph Bonnet; William Hofka; and Arie Smit (although Arie is still with us). The museum is the dream of Agung Rai and his family. He has put together an eclectic collection of traditional Balinese painters and craftspeople, in combination with contemporary international artists. Arma Museum has participated in major events focused on global environmental issues. Map ref. W.10 Genta Gallery, Lod Tunduh – about five kilometres from Ubud centre, via Jalan Hanoman: Set in bucolic surrounds of rice fields, Genta is a tranquil space that, upon entering presents a tableaux of traditional Balinese images. The soft, subtle and exquisitely tonal works of Mata Gusti Ngurah (oil on canvas) immediately attract. The splendid


Teja Astawa, Tony Raka Gallery.


Sika Gallery.


depiction of an old man and his fighting cock is extraordinary. Of interest is the nouveau-traditionalist method of Wayan Bendi. Based on traditional Kamasan village scenes, Bendi introduces subtle humour to his works by hiding helicopters and camera-toting tourists on buses amongst bustling and boisterous market crowds. Bendi uses vibrant colour and a naïve style for his characterisations that lends an overall light-hearted feel to his paintings. One section of the gallery is dominated by Made Winanta’s large format abstract paintings that blend figurative motifs with abstract designs and a fine eye for colour and tone. One might even encounter the odd Antonio Blanco lithograph. If one has a liking for pop art some examples of this genre are also on display here. But Genta is mainly a gallery of traditional Balinese works mixed with some Balinese landscapes by Sukaya Nyoman and examples of modernist portraiture by Muhammad. Map ref. Z.8

Road, and followed in his father’s,– Pande Wayan Suteja Neka – footsteps by building an art gallery which serves as a forecourt to the hotel. Designed as a contemporary display space for, mainly, Indonesian artists working with modernist/abstract motifs, Komaneka is an award-winning player in Indonesian contemporary art. A large-format figurative piece called Tanpa Mimpi by Pande Ketut – a bi-tonal and thoughtful painting of sleeping children – draws the eye upon entering. Kun Adniyana – who has been a featured artist in Harper’s Bazaar – has works in Komaneka. His work is mixed media oil and ink with abstract motif. The intricate pen work combined with oils lends a fascinating textural element to his pieces. Using a similar technique to Kun, Suklu’s works are also an exercise in combining ink and oil on canvas. Semi-expressionist line drawings and a collection of pop art complete the display space which can be described as mostly contemporary and modern. Map ref. P.7

Infinity Gallery, top of Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Central: Showcases the photographic expertise of Max Reinhold and encompasses the mystique of precision, high-speed photography. “Liquid-in-motion” evoking emotion, Reinhold captures droplets as they splash into coloured matrixes, creating wondrous shapes and patterns. Max has developed his own technique for capturing his images – which, at first splash, might appear to be relatively simple, but really relies on precise timing, and exacting focal planes. The printed work evokes memories of a Mandelbrot Set – which has more to do with mathematics and quantum mechanics than fine art. But in Max’s hands the laws of physics and the natural world become a colourful, even joyous, expression of liquid collisions. Max’s work is presented on large format canvases that are created with the highest quality printing techniques. Map ref. H.7

Neka Museum, Jalan Raya, Sanginggan, Ubud: Pande Wayan Suteja Neka’s art museum comprises one of the most extensive collections of early expatriate art on Bali, with an emphasis on the works of Arie Smit – one of the founders of the famed “Young Artists Movement” – who offers a unique interpretation of Balinese temple landscapes. William Hofker - a consummate naturalist/realist painter who displayed excellent drawing skills and was a prodigy of the Dutch Royal Academy of Art. Walter Spies – fused traditional Balinese traditional painting styles with his own interpretation of local culture to create a unique nexus that, in return, influenced generations of Balinese painters. Rudolf Bonnet – a master of line and form whose drawings and tonal capacities defined him as a master of capturing the Balinese masculine. Neka Museum contains many other examples of works by Balinese artists (including the famed Lempad) and is a renowned repository of one of the most significant collections of “kris” (the spirit-imbued ceremonial dagger). Map ref. B.3

Komaneka Gallery, central Ubud: Komang Neka created the first luxury hotel in Monkey Forest





Museum Neka.


Roberto Coda Zabetta, Gaya Art Space.

Puri Lukisan Art Museum, Jalan Raya, Ubud Central: Not to be missed at Puri Lukisan are the works of I Gusti Nyoman Lempad – a legendary figure in Balinese art, and well known internationally. Described as a true renaissance man, Lempad was also known for his distinctive sculptures and as an architect. He was involved in the design of Puri Lukisan. Lempad depicted traditional scenes in his ink drawings – but with a twist that reflects his unique personality. Puri Lukisan focuses on traditional Balinese painting styles – Wayang and Kamasan, with representations from painters past and present. Also featured is an extensive collection of intricate wood carvings. A world first at Puri Lukisan is the newly opened marketing museum which traces the history and culture of the marketing industry. The museum provides practical information and interactive displays based on the most successful marketing campaigns in recent times. Map ref. H.5

local artists. Some Antonio Blanco lithographs can also be found here. Further in, treasures can be discovered in the form of some exquisite charcoal drawings by Javanese artist, Siswanto, who spent a year on Bali producing an extensive study of local life and culture. Siswanto’s touch and feel for his medium is worldclass. His focus on the detail of a Balinese woman’s kebaya (for instance) with its filigreed trim is sensational; his rendering of her hair with a few stray, wispy strands is so real it almost seems surreal. His tonal integrity is almost photographic, but soft and sensuous. Amazing! Siswanto’s pastel works are equally accomplished and worthy of attention. Putu’s collection, which was begun by his father, is a labour of love and he says he is always looking for new young artists who show promise and who can perpetuate the long tradition of capturing Balinese culture and traditions. Map ref. E.6

Tanah Tho Gallery, Lod Tunduh: Featured prominently in this gallery, which is situated in a leafy grove not far from Pengosekan, are the modernist, figurative paintings by Muhammad. He blends the creative use of complimentary colours with gold highlights to accentuate his, mainly, traditional Balinese female motif. Kan Kulak’s tonal, textural and figurative techniques reveal a distinctive approach to portraiture and modernist interpretation of traditional scenes. With a sprinkling of naïve pop-art styles, Thanah Tho can be described as emphasizing a contemporary, modern and abstract range of paintings that are displayed in a well-lit open and airy space.

Tony Raka Gallery, Jalan Raya, Mas: Located on huge acreage, Tony Raka’s is a nationally and internationally recognized art space that regularly hosts exhibitions by local and international artists. Always on the lookout for new and interesting talent, Tony has a wide variety of styles and media on display. One wall is devoted to abstract photography from a recent exhibition. On another wall – in the expansive entrance space – are two paintings depicting musicians in an electric band by a newly discovered painter named Baeru who hails from Kupang. In between are paintings by Teja Istewa who has brought Kamasan-style (which comes from the Klungkung area) traditionalism together with a naïve, modernist, motif that evokes humour with the humility that comes from understanding one’s cultural identity. A standout piece is a two-panel abstract/figurative work in large format by Made Winanta of a Balinese woman. This piece has undertones of Jackson Pollock which add a pleasing perspective and dimension to the painting. Colour, colour colour, the works in the vast space of this gallery dazzle the eye and excite the mind. There’s always something new and interesting just around the next corner. Map ref. G.6

Nyoman Sumerta Fine Art Gallery (Tepi Sawah), Jalan Goa Gaja, Peliatan: This gallery – part of the Tepi Sawah hotel and villas complex – comprises an extensive collection of traditional style art works and a prodigious array of fine wood carvings. Entering the gallery, one cannot help but admire Putu’s small collection of vintage vehicles, including a 1942 Harley Davidson US Army bike. The gallery comprises a large area separated into various display areas – the entrance emphasizing traditional artworks by


Graeme MacRae revisits a long lost friend.

Back in 1977, on our first visit to Bali and following the advice of Lonely Planet’s very first guidebook, my wife and I took the slow bus up the Tampaksiring road to the crater of Mt. Batur. We arrived eventually at Penelokan and checked into the only available accommodation – a cluster of ramshackle wooden shacks hanging off a precipitous cliff. It was called Lakeview Lodge and that seemed an understatement: what it overlooked was one of the most memorable views in the world: the great crescent-shaped lake, the jagged rim of the crater, the fields of black lava and the volcano within the volcano, then at night the lights of the villages below and the full moon rising over it all. Our host was a woman small of stature but large of presence and when she heard we were from New Zealand, she tried to explain, between her minimal English and our even more minimal Indonesian, that there was a family connection of some kind. When we left, she gave us a small, crudely carved, but powerful garuda mask, which hangs over our front door to this day. Years later, when we lived in Ubud in the early 1990s, Lakeview had grown into a series of windowless Indonesianhotel-style brick and tile rooms, but fortunately strung along a terrace with the view still intact. The beds were damp and lumpy and water felt like ice, but it was worth it for the full moons. It was there that we got to know Wayan Armawa, the son of our previous host – doctor, raconteur and well-known

identity in the Ubud scene of that time. The mysterious New Zealand connection turned out to be that he was the (by then ex-) husband of Sarita Newson (long-term resident of Sanur, but known to many Bud readers as the founder/owner/editor of Saritaksu Editions). Armawa was a free spirit, but also a wise and generous one and he was the first Balinese to invite me to join him working in a temple and to show me how to do it. It was with him also that we found ourselves one cold misty midnight, watching a wayang kulit performance outside Pura Tuluk Biu, all sitting on the main road and reluctantly moving to let the occasional vehicle past. This was how Batur became the sacred centre of that personal Bali most of us have. During the 1990s, Lakeview became the lunch stop of choice for the big tour buses, and they upgraded their restaurant to meet this market as well as the growing market for receptions and other events. Later they invested heavily in a parking area for the buses with a new accommodation and restaurant building along the edge – a cliff of black volcanic stone that seems part of the crater rim itself. The renovations were completed a few days before the first Bali bomb. With the downturn in tourism, the next few years were not easy, and the move upmarket called for a sophistication of management and marketing that was not easy to meet from local resources. Reviewers tended to rate the views more highly than the facilities and management. Meanwhile, Armawa and Sarita’s family were growing up,

Rooms with a view, by Pierluigi Balducci.


moving effortlessly between their education and work in New Zealand and holidays and family in Bali, and then also travelling much further afield. They are now cosmopolitan professionals who could live anywhere in the world, but gradually, one-by-one, they have all been drawn back to Bali, and to the mountain home of their ancestors. Recently the eldest son, Kadek Adidharma, has taken over as general manager of Lakeview and has begun a radical transformation of the hotel. Last week we decided to see for ourselves. We took the Tegallalang-Pujung road, a comfortable hour by motorbike, past the woodcarving shops, then steadily climbing (with a stop at Tegalsuci to put on more clothing) above the irrigation zone, into mountain horticulture territory with the last kilometre lined with stalls with spectacular displays of multicoloured fruit. At the rim of the crater, the pay-to-enter roadblock is not the friendliest of welcomes, but the amount is not excessive and hopefully some of it is put to good use. We arrived late afternoon, in time for excellent local coffee on the balcony, with the lake and the villages of Buahan and Trunyan glowing far below in the setting sun. At this hour the restaurant was still busy with day visitors but they soon left and we had the place to ourselves apart from a Dutch couple. As the mist began rolling in, over the rim and down into the crater, we moved to our room a couple of levels down the cliff-face. The layout is standard international hotel style, but the

materials and furnishings are not: light golden sandstone walls with flooring and furniture of dark hardwood: huge comfortable bed and chairs, with more wardrobes and cabinets than you need. They have seen some use, but with solid natural materials of this quality it doesn’t matter. The bathroom opens into the room (and the view), the shower has a welcome non-slip pebble floor, hot water means hot and exhaust fans are coming soon. The complimentary water and tea, soap and toothbrush are nice touches. But the highlight is the far wall – all glass – with the volcano filling most of the view. It opens onto a balcony – just big enough for two chairs, where you can watch the world inside the crater and whatever is happening in the sky above it, at any hour of day or night. As night fell, so did the temperature, so we moved back upstairs to the dining/lounge/restaurant area (Danu Lounge) which is lined with brilliant painting/batiks from a recent exhibition. Somebody lit a fire in the big open fireplace (inhouse New Zealand expertise). Mulled wine appeared from somewhere – sweet and spicy but not too much so. Soon we were warm inside and out and should we be tired of the tropics, it would be easy to imagine ourselves in the European alps. Visiting family members came and went. The Dutch couple joined us briefly by the fire, then ate quietly by themselves. We were not very hungry, so we dined lightly on grilled fish from

Batur, Lakeview Hotel.

the lake and local (semi-organic) vegetables. The menu looks extensive though and they are constantly inventing new local specialties, including a gourmet chicken-curry bubur (rice porridge), Kintamani Sunrise (a white wine spritzer with tamarillo liqueur) and home-made jams and marmalades. Back in our room we had no need for the TV (we presume it works), because the rising moon on the volcano filled the glass wall. The double glass doors were surprisingly effective in cutting the sound of the trucks grinding their way up the hill with loads of rock and gravel destined for building sites on the coast (you get used to it after a while anyway). The bed was comfortable and warm and the only thing that stopped us sleeping was the moonlight. In the morning, I joined Kadek for the morning yoga class as the sun rose (professional teachers of both yoga and tai chi are in the pipeline). For breakfast you can choose nasi goreng or black rice pudding in the buffet restaurant where the bus tours eat, or European style in the new restaurant. We chose the latter and didn’t regret it: freshly baked bread rolls, with a choice of jams and marmalades, a generous fruit salad, pisang goreng and another sweet bread, and plenty of good coffee. After breakfast, the Dutch couple set off, with a local guide, to walk up the trail to Mt Abang, avoiding the fees and hassles of the better-known volcano walk. We accompanied them as far as the start of the trail, where it branches off the high road

through to Besakih, and walked back down the road, through quiet shady forest (no mosquitoes or snakes) where hermits used to retire to spend their last years meditating. If we had more time, we would have walked the trail and spent at least another day exploring the villages and lake down in the crater. Kadek’s new staff are lovely young local people, surprising fluent in English, friendly and keen to get it right. They are working on a range of packages, including walks and tours, writers, artists and health retreats. They are also working together with partner hotels down by the lake to offer packages which combine their complementary resources. We will go back to Lakeview every time we come here, because it will always be part of our Bali, but if we lived here we’d go for at least two reasons. One is if we had a busy life in Ubud, or even busier down on the coast and we just wanted a night away from it all – quiet and cool, comfortable and peaceful (we’ve met Denpasar people who’ve got into this habit). The other is to remind ourselves that there are other Balis out there – different landscapes, ecologies, cultures – all so different, interesting and beautiful – but also local economies that need a share of the benefits of tourism.


A work in progress, by Diana Darling.


Chapter 10: The Ground Breaking Denpasar, April 1926 “This is the beginning of the end of Bali,” said Allison Peal. The small crowd huddling under umbrellas was gathered to witness the ground-breaking ceremonies for the island’s first tourist hotel. “The end of Bali happened twenty years ago,” said Kaspar. “It was a much showier, much messier occasion than this.” He turned to the woman standing on his other side and said, “I beg your pardon, Emma. But you must agree that this filthy affair deserves to be rained on.” “Have you lost your mind, Kaspar?” said Emma mildly. “I know you’re not in favor of the hotel, but it’s not wise to speak like that.” On the other side of the lot, someone said, “Who’s that woman in dark glasses that Kaspar Schell is talking to?” “That’s Emma Houtman.” “The Resident’s wife?” “Houtman’s not the Resident any more, he’s just the head of the Tourist Bureau. This must be a big day for him.” “Why is she wearing dark glasses in this awful weather?” “She’s blind.” The muddy lot at the center of the little town of Denpasar was shorn of trees and marked off with string. A tent-like pavilion had been set up in a corner with a table of refreshments. People crowded there under the roof, but a cantering wind drove gusts of rain at them, soaking the pastel-colored cakes. Allison clasped her hat and stared at the rain-whipped air before her. She hadn’t meant to be rude. Her eyes smarted with embarrassment and she frowned to keep them back, unaware that this made her look severe. She was a short woman with dark blond hair, a strong jaw, and handsome dark eyebrows. Shyness made her taciturn, but her eyes were brightened by a susceptibility to panic. This tension between excitability and reserve gave her an aura of alertness and composure that made people think that she was older than she was; in fact, she was only twenty-three. Kaspar said, “My cousin is worried that tourists will be the ruin of Bali. She is a tourist herself, but obviously not one of the dangerous sort.” “So you are fond of Bali, Mrs. Peal,” Emma said. “Have you been here long?” “Only a few weeks,” Allison paused and glanced at Kaspar; but he was scanning the crowd on the other side of the field. Emma said, “I do hope your stay will be a pleasant one. Tell me, dear, how are the men doing? Have they dug the hole yet?” Allison stepped carefully around Kaspar to stand next to Emma. She saw that her shoes, of fine kidskin the color of oyster

shells, were scalloped with mud. She stood on tiptoes, sinking her shoes deeper into the mud, and craned her neck. At the center of the lot was a more exclusive area marked off by a fence of palmleaf decorations. A cluster of officials milled about, attended by Balinese servants bearing umbrellas. “It’s hard to tell from this distance,” she said. “They seem to be looking for something. Oh. Someone is bringing a shovel.” “What does he look like?” “He’s an older man, quite tall; gray mustache — walks with his jaw leading, like he’s found some incriminating evidence.” “That’s my husband Willem.” “Oh, I beg your pardon.” Allison’s eyes brightened again. “Never mind, that’s rather good. Do you see the Resident, Mrs. Peal? You know, our local governor. He’d be the one who gets the shovel.” “Yes, there he is. You’re right; he’s holding the shovel and seems to be examining it. Now they are looking around on the ground.” “My word. Kaspar, has Ratu Manik come after all? Do you see him anywhere?” “I see no one else.” Allison followed his eyes. Standing somewhat apart from the Dutch officials was a young Balinese man, splendid and immobile, surrounded by his own servants. Allison said, “Who is Ratu Manik?” “One of the princes of Denpasar,” Kaspar said. “This used to be his land.” “Don’t be ridiculous, Kaspar,” said Emma. From the other side of the road, a small group of Balinese looked on from the shelter of a coffee hut. “What’s going on over there?” one of them said. “They’re going to re-build the palace,” said another. “No, they aren’t,” said a woman. “They’re going to build a hotel.” The others looked at her. She was a stranger, with an accent from the north coast. She carried a large bundle of batik cloths balanced on her head. “A what?” “A hotel,” she said. “A place for the Dutch.” “More Dutch?” “Yes, but not soldiers. The hotel is for tourists.” “Turis ...” said someone, experimentally. “Yah, tourists,” the woman said. “White people with money. Watch this.” She plucked a cloth from the stack she was carrying, adjusted the bundle on her head, and crossed the road. She walked toward the muddy lot, holding up the open cloth in front of her, displaying the full batik design. A Dutch soldier waved his arms and shooed her away. The woman returned chuckling with embarrassment, and the others burst out laughing. The soldier glared at them from across the road.


Allison bent her attention to the group of officials in the central enclosure. She recognized the Assistant Resident of South Bali, a heavy man whose offices were adjacent to the government rest house. She and her husband had spent the night there when they’d first arrived. From where she stood she could just make out the little cluster of buildings. The surrounding gardens were sawn off abruptly where they met the demarcated vacant lot. It must have happened in the past few weeks. She was startled to think that she had been in Bali long enough to see that things were changing before her eyes. “Is it to be a very large hotel?” Allison asked Emma. “I believe it’s to be something of a glorified rest house, built over the existing one. I’m sure my husband would be happy to show you the plans. It’s his big project.” She turned to Kaspar. “You’ve seen the drawings, Kaspar, haven’t you?” “The drawings and the model. The design is a triumph of colonial administrative styling.“ “So you could not persuade him to build it in the style of the former palace? Willem tells me that you lobbied hard for a hotel à la Balinaise.” “I lobbied hard for no hotel at all. Having lost, I confess that I argued for a design in the manner of the old puri. Had absolutely no effect.” Allison said, “Do you mean to say that there was a palace here once?” “There was indeed,” said Kaspar. “And it belonged to this Ratu Manik?” Emma said, “It belonged to his family. He was just a child when it was destroyed.” “Destroyed?” Emma adjusted her dark glasses. “It’s a long story.” Kaspar caught Allison’s eye and shook his head, frowning. Allison returned to her duties as narrator to Emma. “People are bringing in baskets of things — offerings, I should think — and now someone is leading in a calf.” From the midst of a huddle of Balinese priests there rose the crescendo squawking of a chicken. It stopped suddenly. “Don’t watch this part, Allison,” Kaspar said. “I hope you are not faint-hearted, Mrs. Peal. These must be the purification ceremonies for the ground. The Balinese insist on it. Kaspar can tell you how it works.” But Allison had no fear of blood sacrifice. In the short time that she had been on the island, she had already fallen in love with Bali and all its queerness. Coached by Kaspar, she was convinced that Bali was not quite of this world; that in Bali everything — trees, rocks, the very air — was saturated with supernatural forces, and that the Balinese lived on a magical plane. Allison (like Kaspar) believed that Bali was a world so precious that it could not long endure under the observation of

outsiders. If she felt any fear in Bali, it was that she herself was a carrier of pollution. Contrarily, she dreaded the fact that she must one day leave the island. But what she said was, “Now they’re putting up the flag.” “Good,” said Emma. “We can go home now. You and Kaspar are coming to the house, I hope, Mrs. Peal? There is a small reception for the Resident. I would enjoy your observant company.” Emma lifted her hand and placed it on the arm of a Dutch official who materialized suddenly under her touch and led her away. Soon the entire crowd began walking in the same direction, toward the broad grassy field at the center of town. “Ah, look it’s clearing,” Kaspar said. “Shall we walk the long way around the square? We don’t want to arrive too early.” “That’s fine with me.” Allison smiled at the ground, happy to be in Kaspar’s company. “Look — that little parade over there is Ratu Manik and his entourage on his way to the Houtmans’ house. I should fill you in on some important gossip before we get there. The Houtmans adopted Ratu Manik about twenty years ago, after the conquest of South Bali. The child’s family had been killed in the fighting. He was only about five years old. They gave him a proper Dutch education in Java, the whole business. Then, just as he was about to leave for Holland to go to university, he discovered that he would rather be Balinese and he left the Houtmans to go live with distant relatives here in Denpasar. The Houtmans were crushed, of course. And Ratu Manik’s principal tutor in recovering his royal Balinese identity is a dreadful man. But because the entire Dutch community knows the Houtmans and Ratu Manik, Emma and Willem have had to put a good face on things and pretend that it was all their idea, a sort of filling out of his education. Just so you know.” Allison glanced over at the group of Balinese nobles heading south along the eastern edge of the green as she and Kaspar walked westward along the northern edge, and she had the sensation of being a small player in an opera. It was not unpleasant. And now the sun broke through the clouds. Allison closed her eyes a moment and let the sun warm her eyelids. Kaspar took her wrist and tucked it under his arm. “I do hope you don’t object to posing as my cousin — nor to my posing as yours. I just thought it might make things simpler about you and Edmund staying at the house.” “I’m happy to pose as your cousin, if nobody else minds,” she said. “Besides, it’s almost slightly true.” It had been a cousin of her husband Edmund who had told them that when they got to Bali they must be sure to look up Kaspar Schell, “a most delicious man who knows everybody and knows everything about Bali. He’s English, not German, although his father technically was, and he lives with the natives. Let me give you a package to take to

him.” They sought him out on the afternoon of their third day on the island. Edmund and Allison had arrived in the Dutch East Indies in mid-March in the course of a world cruise, a gift from Edmund’s parents in the hope that it might produce a grandchild. The couple had left New York in September, spent the autumn in Europe, Christmas in Alexandria, and then headed southeast toward tropical Asia. They sailed through the Suez Canal, along the coasts of Arabia and India, Burma, and Siam and down through the Straits of Malacca, along the coast of Malaya to the port of Singapore where they boarded a comfortable Dutch steamer and headed into the Dutch East Indies. The steamer called in at Batavia, the Dutch capital on the northwest coast of Java (which Edmund and Allison found neat and clean but intolerably hot), and proceeded along the coast through the serene Java Sea, stopping at Semarang (where they declined to disembark) and Surabaya (where they confirmed their onward travel plans with the Official Tourist Bureau). At dawn on Friday, the 12th of March they anchored in the harbor of Buleleng on the north coast of Bali. While it was still dark, Allison had gone on deck to watch the sun come up, and she saw the mountains of Bali appear out of nothing. Far ahead the sky grew pale and then pink and then suddenly clear blue with a scattering of stars. Tall rain storms swayed across the sea like ministers in long blue gowns. Now the mountains loomed rich and green and their peaks glittered with the first light of the sun, as if they were discharging some cold perfect fire. Allison stared at the highest, easternmost summit, dazzling in the empty air, and she was seized with a longing to be at the top of that particular mountain and to linger there in that impossibly golden light. “There you are. Don’t you think you should get dressed? We’re nearly there, you know.” She turned and saw Edmund approach her, freshly shaved, watch in hand, already wearing a hat. “I know.” “I’ve been looking through the Tourist Guide,” he said. “We’re going to be roughing it, you know. There are no hotels on the island, just government rest houses run by native caretakers, whatever they are. You’d better pack some bed linen and so forth. You’ll have to get our trunks up. We’ll leave the big trunks on board, of course; it’s only for ten days.” “Okay.” Allison, still leaning on the rail, watched as a curtain of blue-black rain clouds came boiling up behind the mountains, snuffing out the sunlight and blotting out the mountain tops. “Well? Come on, Ally. You’re still in your bathrobe. What are you doing up here dressed like that, anyway?” “I was watching the sunrise.” “Not much to see this morning. I bet we’ll have to disembark

in the rain.” The air was sinking into a chilly fog that grew heavier as the steamer slowed. Edmund fixed a cigarette in a short black cigarette holder and clamped it in his teeth. “You should have seen the mountains, Ed. It was like they were on fire.” “Good God, don’t say that. We don’t want any erupting volcanoes this week, thank you. Now hurry up, will you? There won’t be any time left for breakfast. I don’t know what we’ll get at the government rest houses. Native food, probably, whatever that is. There are no hotels in Bali, you know.” “I know. You’ve already said so.” “Just so you know what to expect.” “I don’t mind,” said Allison. She glanced in the direction of the mountains, but they were invisible now. Edmund put his hands on his hips. He was a tall thin man, and this was his preferred way of slouching. He said, “Well, if we don’t like it, we can always hop back on board on Sunday afternoon. We don’t have to stay the whole ten days.” “I’m looking forward to it.” By the time they dropped anchor it was raining. Bad weather scampered after Edmund and Allison from the moment they arrived in Bali. In their three years of marriage, Allison had never spent so much time alone with her husband. Back in America, they lived with his family in New York in a large house near Central Park. Edmund was away all day at his office downtown, and in the evenings Allison was buffered from his company by the presence of her parents-in-law, Edmund’s invalid sister, and an elderly aunt. Allison, who had been a promising concert pianist until she found herself afflicted with a terror of public performance, spent her days in a leisurely job with a music publisher. She had married Edmund to please her parents and to fill the empty space left by the annulment of her career. Allison had not minded that Edmund cared nothing for music; indeed, she was relieved that all he expected of her was to be present. To the extent that he noticed her at all, he was friendly to her. For the most part, she floated quietly in the background of a garrulous family, with her solitude nearly intact. But now that they were traveling together, he was always there, and always needy. In New York, he had seemed to be perfectly competent in life. From the way he spoke about his work, she presumed that he was clever at it; socially, his manners were entirely unremarkable. But in Europe he was suddenly different. In London she found him noisy. In Paris, she was surprised to find that he would speak hardly any French; in Rome, he could barely be coaxed out of the hotel. On the long cruise to through the Middle East and on to Asia, as they settled into the ship’s routine, Allison encouraged him to make friends among the other guests. In Singapore, a brief illness permitted her to request a room of her own.


Now in the back seat of the car, Allison fought off a wave of claustrophobia by curling up in the corner and pretending to be asleep. They stopped for lunch high in the mountains at a little rest house, where a cold fog surrounded the cottage in a damp white shroud. They were the only guests in the little wooden dining room; a meal of tinned food had been prepared for them, ordered in advance through the Dutch tourism office in Surabaya. Outside the fog tumbled past the window on a rising wind, tattering to reveal inky trees, then blanketing them again in white. The wind rattled the timbers of the little building, and a slice of cold air crossed the room. Suddenly the light rose and Allison realized that they were in the clouds. Far below, off in the distance, she caught a glimpse of a glittering lake. “Look, Ed!” She jumped up and went to the window. Sun and fog swirled and rolled before them like a dance of veils, crossing and canceling a distant moon-like landscape of blue. As the clouds shredded, they saw with a swoop of vertigo that they were on the rim of an immense crater, looking straight at the flanks of a volcano rising smoking from its center. “Good God,” said Edmund. Far below, to the right of the volcano, was a long lake. At the farther shore of the lake, the crater rim rose and darkened back into a mountain peak that looked like a jagged tooth, and beyond that rose another mountain, radiant and alone. They stepped outside for a better look, but before they could draw breath, a fresh wave of fog broke over them, blotting them out once again. “Driver, where are we?” said Allison. The driver smiled and said with surprising softness, “Batur.” They drove south, down through a long tunnel of green — a flickering corridor of dark trees, mud-walled villages and pale expanses of rice fields under rain — and in the late afternoon they arrived in the little town of Denpasar. Steam rose from the muddy streets, and the low sun made the puddles look like pink paint. Edmund frowned out the car window. Squat huts with tin roofs lined the streets. Here and there were long stretches of high walls of soft dark brick. At the center of town was a broad grassy square with a few large villas spaced around it. The government rest house was a sturdy little barracks building next to a vacant lot not far from the square. Six guest rooms were lined up along a verandah, each room furnished with two beds, a table and chair, and a tall cupboard of heavily scented wood. There was a bathhouse at the rear of the building. “This place is facing in the wrong direction,” said Edmund the next morning as they sat at breakfast on their little verandah. “The morning sun is on the other side of the building. You can tell that this side gets a lot of glare in the afternoon.” He paused. “Ally?” “Yes, Ed.” “That’s why they’ve got those blinds there,” he said pointing

at the eaves. “I know.” “You don’t want that egg, do you?” “No, honey, you have it. Say, Ed, don’t you think we should look up that friend of your cousin Bert?” “Can’t do it today; our itinerary today is full. Listen,” he said, opening the folder they’d been given by the Tourist Office “‘Morning: enjoy the Bali Museum’ — it’s practically across the street, it says here — ‘then travel by motorcar to ...’, ah, let’s see, there’s an elephant cave and a bat cave, lots of native woodcarving, and then ... Oh, this sounds interesting. Ally? Pay attention a minute: twenty-seven plus twelve plus thirty-nine kilometers — how much is that in miles?” “I don’t know, Ed. You know, we don’t have to follow the itinerary. The driver can guide us around.” “Hang on. ... eighteen, carry the one, four and three is six ... Sixty-eight kilometers to Krang— uh, Krang-whatsit, which is supposed to have a proper palace.” Edmund sat back, crossed his arms and looked grimly at Allison. He said, “That’s an all-day trip.” “Seventy-eight, honey. I just thought it might be a good idea to deliver Bert’s package so we don’t have to think about it anymore. Then we’d be free to do what we like.” She sat immobile in her big wicker chair and looked at her husband, willing him to agree. “All right, give me the details. I’ll have a word with the Assistant Resident. But we’re not free to do what we like, you know. This is Dutch territory and they like to keep an eye on things. They really don’t like people straying from the itinerary.” Allison fetched the parcel that Edmund’s cousin had given them, and copied the name and address onto a piece of paper: Kaspar Schell Desa Pondok, Tarik Tamu Bali Edmund returned an hour later in a shortened temper. “We should never have agreed to take that man a package, it’s going to be a dammed nuisance finding him. He lives miles from the itinerary. And the driver wants an extra five dollars to take us there and back, he says it could take the whole day.” “It sounds like an adventure,” said Allison. “The adventure already planned for us today includes lunch.” “Well, maybe we can find something on the road.” “No, we can’t,” said Edmund. “The driver says there are no rest houses between here and wherever that place is. You’ll have to get the people here to pack us a lunch. Hurry up now.” [to be continued]

open mike

An unhinged plan becomes hitched to logic in Tropical Tanta's halfbaked mind. By Diana Darling.

There was a light on in Tropical Tanta’s kitchen late last night as I was passing by, so I stopped in to see what was keeping her up so late. I found her at her kitchen table, up to her fat little elbows in large sheets of drafting paper. There was a pencil tucked behind her ear and another in her fist as she made big sweeping movements over the paper’s surface. Her lumpy old face was smudged and screwed into a grimace of concentration. “Tanta, what are you doing up at this hour?” “The conceptual stage. Let the mind flow and there the hand will go. Oh hello, dear.” I stretched my neck over the table and peeked at her drawing. The paper was dark with heavy curving lines and idiotic swirls, like a storm of demons after an earthquake. “The conceptual stage of what, Tanta? A new musical about drilling for oil?” “You have no understanding of the creative process, dear. Go put the kettle on and make us some tea.” “Come on, Tanta, what is it?” “If you must know, I’ve been asked to design a villa.” “You’re kidding.” Nobody really knows who Tropical Tanta is. She has lived in Bali for as long as anyone remembers, in one of those bamboo & terrazzo huts that were so popular in Ubud in the 1980s. She calls herself an artist, like everyone else in Ubud, but we’ve never seen a body of her work and we don’t know how she survives. Certainly there’s nothing about her person that suggests that she has any notion of aesthetics. She dresses in the most unsuitable way for her short stubby body – in loud checks and patterns and in many layers despite the heat – and she wears her hair short and curled in a very unbecoming style. Her winged spectacles are always so smeared that you can never really make eye contact with her. It’s impossible to imagine that anyone would ask her to design anything. “How exciting, Tanta. Tell me all about it.” “It’s what they call a win-win situation. You know my lovely landlord Mr Astaga. Well, he thought it might be nice to turn my little house into a villa. I suggested that we become partners: he puts up the land, I build the villa, and we share the profits.” “This sounds very expensive for you, Tanta.” “We have an investor,” she said smugly. This was starting to feel unreal. “Besides,” I said. “aren’t there

enough villas in Bali already?” “They wear out, you know.” The light from the bare bulb above the kitchen table bounced unpleasantly from Tropical Tanta’s glasses and for a moment I thought she looked a little unhinged. “Everyone wants to stay in a villa these days,” she said. “Staying in a villa gives you privacy and the feeling of being in your own home with none of the responsibilities. You have the luxury of space, and it’s much more economical than a hotel if you’re a family or group.” She recited this with serenity of a convert. Suddenly I exploded. “Tanta, do you have any idea what this involves? First of all you need to build a fabulous house with swimming pool, garage, beautiful gardens, and access from the road, which is a luxury in itself. Then you need six permits to rent it out. To meet the health and environmental standards, you should probably have a well and a waste water management system. You’ll need to furnish your house with big expensive beds and good linen, nice furniture, a fully equipped European kitchen, at least one huge flat screen TV with DVD player, a sound system and CD library, electronic games, board games, swimming pool inflatables, BBQ, big dining table, massage table, ping pong table, and a baby’s high chair. You’ll need to cover all your cushions in Indonesian textiles and buy a bunch of Indonesian art and antiques to put around the place, and don’t forget the WiFi internet or nobody will want to stay there. “Then you’ll need to hire staff. You’ll need kitchen and housekeeping staff in two shifts from early morning until late at night, plus security, gardening staff, and someone who knows how to clean the pool. The kitchen staff will have to be able to cook Western, Asian and vegetarian for up to 12 people, and the housekeeping staff will need to know how to clean and make beds the way they do at The Four Seasons. All these people should speak some English and they should come from your village. And they will need a good-looking manager who speaks perfect English, has a driver’s license, is computer literate, and fully understands the five-star lifestyle, which means he makes sure the pictures are hung straight and he doesn’t play that Sundanese flute tape all day long, like all the shops in Ubud.” My friend stared at her drawing for a moment, then turned it around and looked at it upside down. She cocked her head and said to herself, “Maybe instead we should build a zoo.”


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