The definitive guide to the creative, holistic and spiritual centre of Bali
Volume 02 October/November/December 2009
glasslove AN AUDIENCE
KETUT LIYER shopping at the spiritual supermarket
IDR Rp 48.000 S$9 HK$45 â‚Ź3.50
Shaken not slurred. Every day at Naughty Nuriâ€™s.
Also serving ribs, mash, salads and curries. Jl. Raya Sanggingan, opposite Museum Neka. Tel: 0361 - 977547
The Bud Sophie Digby Agustina Ardie Nigel Simmonds CONSULTING Editor Nigel Simmonds Senior Photographer Yaeko Masuda www.yaekomasuda.com Publisherâ€™s PA Katarina Taslim Sales & Marketing Pia Tandjung Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Accounts Manager Arthur Chosani Graphic Designers Irawan Zuhri, Novan Satria, Super Stu Distribution Made Marjana, Kadek Arthana, Putu Widi Susanto, Made Sutajaya, Didakus Nuba Publisher PT Saka Wahana Cipta Licence 1.265/09-04/PB/V/99 Advertising enquiries Tel/Fax: (+62 361) 8446341, 743 1804, 743 1805 www.thebudmag.com Email: firstname.lastname@example.org, email@example.com Canggu Club Tennis Centre Jl. Pantai Berawa, Banjar Tegal Gundul, Canggu, Bali 80361, Indonesia ÂŠ PT Saka Wahana Cipta
Cover photo by Tracey Tomtene
OBSESSIONS A temple made of glass.
34 10 12 18
Out of the box Creative minds, we salute you.
Front up News and events
INTERVIEW Troubadour Michael Franti dazzles.
45 78 88 94
DESTINATION Birdland never had it so good. THE LIST Information, columns, articles, The Map...oh my. COVER feature Ketut Liyer and his new found friends.
TOP TABLES Karen and Kafe Batan Waru
open mike The Ubud Readers and Writers Festival comes to town.
MOMENTS The Dreaming Boy and the Widmoser effect Photo: Yaeko Masuda.
Prepare yourselves people for the presence of greatness coming
Michael Franti, who talks to us this issue from San Franscisco
this way over the next few weeks in the form of non other than
about his love of Bali and his plans to open a yoga retreat here.
Hollywood’s most bankable (and some would say talented) movie
And we speak to one of the most successful restaurateurs on the
star, not to mention a few other handy actors and a crew of several
island, Karen Waddell, about her creative culinary ventures in
hundred arriving to film the story of last year’s most successful
the kitchen; we seek out news and views on the current Readers
book, Eat, Pray, Love. For this we are grateful…not only because
and Writers Festival (a stunning international celebration of the
it will give the world a chance to appreciate the secret we have
written and spoken word for which we can only congratulate the
known for years: that Bali, and specifically Ubud and its people,
organisers and participants) and continue our journey to The Bali
are a wondrous manifestation of all that is most relevant in this
Bird Park, a world-class avian facility that continues to be one of
world; we say thanks too for the dollars that will surely follow as
the most successful breeding centres on the planet. Do we need
the movie brings more visitors to these shores, for the chance
more? Probably not, because all this leads me to this thought,
for Bali and Indonesia to become a centre for more large-scale
and you may need to forgive me here for an exuberance I truly
creative projects and for the opportunity to appreciate a new
feel: let’s join hands and give ourselves one and all a god solid
view on a subject we know well. We celebrate this issue with
pat on the back before we continue further in our endeavours.
an in-depth article focusing on the Medicine Man who started
The Bud is proud to represent in both words and pictures such
much of this, Ketut Liyer, and we visit too some of the more
positive forces in creativity, beauty and culture, and we bow to all
recent additions to this community: glass artist Ron Seivertson,
who generate this spirit in a world still torn in so many places by
ARMA legend Agung Rai and none other than Indie troubadour
seekers on a misguided path. Forgive them.
Photo: Yaeko Masuda.
Happy Tapas Innovative Japanese restaurant Minami has launched a Happy Hour tapas at its bar that includes one free selection from its tapas menu with every two orders of alcohol – seven days a week, 4pm to 7pm. Minami is Ubud’s leading Japanese eatery, situated next to Sunny Blow Bungalows and close to naughty Naughty Nuri’s Warung. For restaurant bookings (no need to book for the Happy Hour tapas), call 0361-970013.
Ad Infinitium Infinity Gallery in Monkey Forest Road (next to Macan Tidur) is the brainchild of Stephan Max Reinhold, a Canadian, currently living in Bali and Vienna. Interested in photography since the age of nine, Stephan creates images of liquids in motion using ultra high-speed flash photography, an idea spawned one day while swimming in a pool during a Bali rainstorm. “It is fun, educational and beautiful,” he says of his work, which today utilises specialised equipment capable of measuring time down to almost the nanosecond. firstname.lastname@example.org Afternoon Delight Take tea at one and a two-hour massage at two. Yoga is at four, steam or swim at five and dine at seven. This is the fabulous half-day rejuvenation package offered by Uma Ubud on Jl. Raya Sanggingan. Using the inimitable and exclusive COMO Shambhala massages and products, one gets to enjoy the facilities and privileges of this chic resort without having to stay overnight. Alternatively take part in the resort's full moon ceremony followed by dinner at Kemiri, Uma Ubud's pavilion restaurant. Bookings essential. Call 0361 972448 or email email@example.com
Twin Peaks Longtime artistic collaborators John O’Sullivan and Ida Bagus Indra pair up for their first major exhibition to be held at Gaya Fusion October 6-30. Entitled ‘Twin Sons of Different Mothers’, the exhibition includes both paintings and installations on which the pair has worked and incorporates the poetic musings of O’Sullivan and the artistic skills of Indra. O’Sullivan – general manager of Four Seasons Bali – recently launched his first book of poetry, Odd Poems and Slogans. Ida Bagus Indra is a one of Bali’s leading contemporary artists. Said O’Sullivan: “The concept of creating a joint exhibition entitled ‘Twin Sons of Different Mothers’ evolved over time rather than on this occasion being birthed together. Two souls connected for over six years this time around; attracted in a desire to express and create a mixed medium offering of our past, present and future. A sincere and divine offering of Sekala (tangible) and Niskala (intangible).” www.gayafusion.com
BLIPFest BLIPfest, in conjunction with Alila Ubud, presents “Imagemakers of the Future” on October 10, an exhibition showcasing the works of emerging young photographers who are in the first years of their careers. 'Imagemakers' is a preview event for BLIPfest (Bali Photography Festival), a major international photography event hosting an array of exhibitions, workshops and seminars in Bali in 2010. www.theblipfest.com
The Purist With names like Hill Villa, Jungle Villa, Timor Villa, River Villa and Bamboo Villa, The Purist Villas and Spa in Kutuh Kaja near Ubud, add chic design to tradition. The resort houses seven villas, two with private pools, a spa, a restaurant, water gardens, a yoga platform and main pool. The design is contemporary with ethnic accents and a myriad of textures. Wood, sandstone and slate; river stones and rattan. All purely simple in style, yet equally luxurious. Each room is full y equipped with today's modern amenities and staffed for excellence. www.thepuristvillas.com
m acan tidur “the sleeping tiger” ON UPPER MONKEY FOREST ROAD - UBUD - TEL 977121
indegenous arts antiques ethnographica fine art textiles
ra nti Photos by Lakota.
interview In March 2009, a handful of determined Ubudians took a “Yes I’ll play” phone call, and in 10 days turned it into one of the most successful concerts the island has ever seen, with more than 1,500 tickets sold to raise money for Pelangi School and setting a precedent for years to come. Troubadour Michael Franti, The Yak’s “Man of the Year”, was the voice on the other end of the phone. A successful Indie musician whose catchy tune, ”Say Hey I Love You”, hit the US Top 40 this year, Michael is Founder/ Producer of “Power to the Peaceful”, the free festival in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park that now draws 70,000 people. He spoke to Jen Davis about his love of Bali, his hopes for the planet and his recent mainstream success.
Michael, this year is the 11th “Power to the Peaceful” Festival in San Francisco. Where did the idea come from? Why did the festival grow so strong? We started the Festival on September 11, 1999, as a day of art and action for death row prisoner Mumia Abu Jamal, a man thousands of people believed was innocent. In America, the emergency telephone number is 9-1-1, so we selected the 11th day of the ninth month as the day to put on this concert. Two years later, the attacks of September 11th took place in New York City. We want the date to be an opportunity to unite and say we want to end all political violence all around the world. So now Power for the Peaceful calls for peace within ourselves, in our communities, with the environment and in the world. We bring together hundreds of different social justice and environmental organisations so that people who come to the concert get involved in giving back to the planet. We’ve also done the festival in Sao Paulo, Brazil, and hope to take it to other places in the world, perhaps Bali!
Is this why you support the founders of the Bali Spirit Festival, and have played in benefit concerts and fund-raisers for not-for-profit causes in Bali? I have been the focal point for some enthusiastic, committed local and expat Balinese to raise money for Yayasan Bumi Sehat natural birthing centre in Ubud. Ibu Robin, who founded the centre and delivers thousands of babies each year, is one of my greatest heroes. She and her family have given of their life, time, love, and resources to provide the best care for Balinese mothers and their families. We have done a number of concerts to benefit the centre and will continue to do so. I was inspired by the Bali Spirit Festival’s commitment to reach out and support the community. When musicians sign up to come to Bali, they’re attracted by the message of global collaboration and doing their part for the healing of the planet.
You’re probably the lowest key rock star on the planet. Why is it that you’ve found yourself in the US Top 40s this year? We started Spearhead in 1994 and we’ve always been a band who has toured nonstop. We’ve travelled the world and brought music directly to the people without much support from radio or video channels. Every year our fan base has grown just through word of mouth. In July of 2009, we had the song “Say Hey I Love You” enter the Top 40 in America. It was a huge surprise to all of us because the song was released one year ago and had got a little bit of radio airplay and then went away. When the summertime came in America, radio stations started playing the song and it seemed like the happy vibe of the song was just what people were looking for in a time in America when the economy
is so bad. People wanted music that made them feel happy and dance. So why is having a Top 40 song important? Other than financially of course, is it important to you, really? The week the song went into the Top 40 I was on tour and my appendix ruptured and it took a week for doctors to figure out what was wrong. By the time they discovered it was my appendix I was near death with infection. Finally, after decades of playing music, we had our first hit song and I was afraid that I wasn’t going to live to ever hear it on the radio. It was a very valuable lesson to me to be around people
that I loved as I was going through the surgery and recovery and to be reminded that our health and family and friends are more important than any commercial success. I first started playing music in 1987 with a band called the Beatnigs and if we had a hit song like this one back then, I know I wouldn’t have appreciated in the way I do today. When you have a song that is played at people’s barbeques with their family or at their wedding or when they go on vacation with their family to the beach, those songs become a part of their lives and it’s really an honour to be a part of bringing happiness to someone’s
life through music. At the moment “Say Hey” is the 16th most downloaded song in America and continues to move up the chart. You seem just as happy playing at a concert for children at Pelangi School in Ubud as for a Charity Concert for 1500 people at Linda Garland’s Estate in Nyuh Kuning. Or taking your turn at Flava Lounge’s Open Mike night. How does that fit? I’ve been called a troubadour and that’s a badge I wear with great pride. I love playing music in the street more than anywhere else. When you just play for
people anywhere you can, it’s like playing a pick-up basketball game, and I love that too. I love the intimacy of it, playing without all the bells and whistles. Above almost any thing else on earth, I love songs. I really believe that music can bring people together because I’ve seen it. To me, music is much more than the way I happen to make my living. It’s the thread that’s gone through my life and given it so much meaning. Tell us about how you grew up and what effect that had on your later life. I was born to a white mother and AfroNative American father, and adopted by
a white family that I didn’t really fit into. That’s why I’ve always identified with the underdog and people whose voices aren’t being heard. And for me, family is not just the people we’re related to by blood, they’re the people who come into your life and stay in your life. When you live with people and learn from them, you feel a connection. Then it extends beyond that to community and beyond that to this planet. So as a person, that’s what I do; I define my family as the planet as a whole and try to connect with it, as much as I can. We heard you also made a film about the Middle East, involving a trip to Iraq,
Israel and the occupied territories of Palestine. How did that come about? In March of 2004, I was sitting on our tour bus in America watching the news of the war in Iraq and the more I watched the news the more I became saddened, imagining what life was like for Iraqi families in Baghdad. I wanted to see what life was like there with my own two eyes because it was not being shown on television in America. In June that year, I took my guitar, some friends and a video camera and I flew to Baghdad and I played music on the streets for Iraqi people as well as for US soldiers. Everywhere I went,
Iraqi families invited me into their homes and even though people were very poor and going hungry the whole community would gather food for my friends and I to eat, and offer us places to stay. They took us into their hospitals, the basements they hid in during the bombings, their schools and mosques, cafes, and showed me the traumatic effect the war was having on the everyday life of civilians. I was especially moved visiting children in hospitals who had had their limbs blown off by bombs from air raids. At night I would visit US soldiers who may have been responsible for those attacks and it caused a lot of conflict in my heart because when I went to visit those soldiers I also met some who had lost limbs in the war and were from towns similar to the one I myself grew up in. I would play music for these soldiers and would bring Iraqis to meet the US soldiers and it was the first time that they would talk face to face with the Iraqis. After I left Iraq I went to Israel, the Palestinian territories and the Gaza strip and I met people on both sides of the conflict there. What was the most significant part about that journey? The most amazing thing was that everywhere I met people who were willing to take incredible risks to achieve peace. In Israel, I met an Israeli woman who had lost her son and she formed a group with a Palestinian woman who had lost her sister and they brought together hundreds of families from both sides. Everyone had family members killed in the conflict. Out of their weekly discussions they came out with a message saying that we don’t want the death of our family members to be used as a call for more war. We want the death of our family members to be used as a cry to end all political violence everywhere. I made a film chronicling my experiences there called “I Know I’m Not Alone” and I recorded an album based on my experiences there called “Yell Fire”. In the end, I realised that I’m not on the
side of Iraqis or Americans or Israelis or Palestinians; I’m on the side of the peacemakers from whatever country they belong. What’s on the horizon at the moment? What of the future? It’s true to say things have been very busy. Currently we are on an international tour promoting our latest album, “All Rebel Rockers”. The tour has gone on a lot later than expected because of our success of “Say Hey”. That has been fantastic of course, except that it has limited my time in Bali. My business partner Carla Swanson and I have also started a line of yoga and surf inspired clothing called “Stay Human”. I’ve also been writing songs for a new album and will begin recording this October/November. Grassroots? Alternative? Mainstrean? Who is your music aimed at? As a musician and a man, I more than anything else want to be a unifier. I want to bring people together through music and its unique power. And I hope that somehow that sense of unity extends beyond the music. The truth is that we need everybody. We need the ideas of the grass roots. We need the resources of the corporate world. We need the cooperation of the government. And we need the intelligence of everyday people with their street wisdom. We need everybody. So that’s who I play music for – everybody. Your show is high-energy...charged and full on. How do you keep that strength and enthusiasm in your life? I’ve been practicing yoga since 2001. I first started yoga as a way to deal with stress but the more I practiced it, the more yoga has become a way of life for me. Yoga has helped me to become a more mindful person, more healthy and conscious of how my actions affect the world and the people around me. So, you’ve travelled many places, why the attachment to Bali? From the first time I arrived in Bali I felt like it was home to me. I’ve travelled to
many continents in the world, visited and performed in hundreds of cities, been to beautiful beaches, mountains, and forests, but there is no place to me that compares to the energy that I feel in Bali because of one thing: the people. Every day that I’m in Bali I meet people (Balinese and expats alike) who are working so closely with nature and live in communities that work closely together each day. The art, the architecture, carvings, paintings, ceremonies, dance, the music are all things that feed my soul. The deep spiritual way of life of the Balinese people is a great example to anyone who visits the island; the warm climate of Bali helps to open the body and heart. How will Bali figure in your life in the future? I have been building a yoga retreat centre in Ubud that will be a place for 25 to 30 students to come spend time with teachers in a very concentrated and beautiful yoga environment. The retreat centre is another way I can continue to contribute too, because the profits we raise will continue to help Bumi Sehat as well as other Yayasans on the island. Bali is a perfect place for the study of Asana (yoga poses and movement) because in yoga everything that we do is in the Sanskrit language and Bali, being a Hindu island, there are Sanskrit teachings everywhere. If someone is learning about the principles of Ganesh, they can also visit the Ganesh temple. When I first came to Bali I thought I would spend every day at the beach swimming and watching the sun go down, but these days I can’t pull myself away from the rice fields. There’s nothing I like more than walking in the rice fields, talking to farmers, and imagining the hundreds of generations of people who have cared so intimately for the land. That is why I will always return to Bali, and I’m committed to giving back in whatever way I can. Michael Franti...many thanks and... respect.
ou s? Y n s a l o g n of artist R aks to a m s a s pe y to es? Gla orks s and the a s sw ou ft on do y hrow st on Glas his cra n the t a o iz e, Wh ldnâ€™t t Hor t his lif edium f u o o sh ou tm on erts Bali ab nificen suda. v i e S g r a ado oM , ma Salv elastic s: Yaek t o mos t. Phot e n pla
Ron, could you tell us where you're from? I was born and raised in Marin County, California. I’m forty seven and married to a lovely Indonesian wife. Past behaviour? I was in the construction business for twenty years but my artistic nature, which began as a child, started to take over. I spent a lot of time in theatre and I was always drawn to creating. I need to clarify this. How does dancing and singing help you to create with your hands? I always had creative aptitude and I got to create with my voice, simply. When I went to High School I was drawn to creating in the wood shop and metal shop. Artistically it started more with performing. When you say performing, would
that be in Hollywood? No, no. When I was ten years old I guess I wanted to go to Hollywood. I wanted to be a movie star, I was in my own Hollywood! [Laughter] But honestly I didn’t have the parental support for that. I loved the creative aspect of acting, to sort of go into another world. My mother would always say, 'Ron has so much potential!' I wanted to puke when I heard that. It was a burden to have potential but no guidance. I felt I had too much talent, there was so much I wanted to do. It was very frustrating. So at the age of 21 I found myself in the construction business, starting off as an apprentice carpenter and then a contractor, which was my career for two decades. Obviously a successful business...so what brought you to Bali? A lack of personal satisfaction as a creative person. Did you discover yourself here as a glass artist? No, I went to The Burning Man festival, which was in Nevada in the Black Rock desert. During that time, spontaneously, I had started to create with paint and clay and when I went to Burning Man I saw a live glass blowing and I just took to it. For five years I followed it as a hobby, doing projects, which I continued while travelling back and forth from Bali. Doing art just for the sake of doing art, you know? I would spend up to seven thousand dollars on a project that would end up as rubbish. So it was all passion?
Yes, the desert was the canvas. I did one huge project of a mandala with six hundred Manzanita trees, so cutting to the quick, from those creative experiences I knew I wanted to do something in the creative field but didn’t know what that was. I became very dissatisfied with life and I could have done a lot of things for money but I came to Bali, with no intentions of doing anything...and that went on for five years. I built a house and rented it out and people would say, why did you choose Bali? I don’t think I chose Bali, I really think Bali chose me. Ha, I resemble that remark! It’s that way and it’s the same thing with art. I thought artists were a bunch of losers, unless you were Dali or Picasso. I had a friend of mine who was a master artist and he lived in a chicken coup and he was offered all kinds of jobs that paid well, but all he wanted to do was to create. I realized I was very passionate about art; I needed to express myself. When was the actual timing of your glass business? One day through meditation, so to speak, I saw this glass artist and I got talking to this guy, and the realisation just reached out and grabbed me. I thought, if I’m going to be an artist, why not work in the most magnificent, elastic and immediate medium? So I jumped in with both feet and within two weeks of working with glass I knew that’s all I wanted to do. How long ago was that? Five years ago.
"One day, through meditation so to speak, I saw this glass artist and I got talking to this guy, and the realisation just reached out and grabbed me. "
What kind of process is involved in creating glass designs? The equipment I built here, and I import silica batch from Australia that is known as soda glass or studio glass before we melt it. It was never glass before and so it sits in a pot, about one hundred and twenty kilos of it, and it stays molten twenty four hours a day. We go into the pot with sculpture irons and we gather the amount of glass that we want and work it with glass tools. How large can a piece run? The biggest piece that we’ve made so far was about a meter and a half; the largest sculpture work was maybe fifty centimeters. How many assistants do you have? Generally, including myself, there are three to five people on the floor depending on what we’re doing. The work is all done on my studio premises. Are your orders specialised? Most of our work, yes. Right now we have an order for figures for awards, unique and hand-sculptured. People also come in and order for their showrooms or off our shelves, which are wholesale. Is your glass work strictly for Bali? No, we sell to about twenty countries, export, we haven’t made any money in Bali really, but then again it’s changing. There’s a lot more interest here, and one of the main reasons I chose Bali is that three hundred and sixty five days a year it’s a trade show. People come here from other countries to buy stuff and so I figured I could make a living doing craftware and it’s true. So do you see yourself blowing in the wind for your future days? That’s a good question. I believe that there will be other developments in the future. As we go along and learn, the potential for glass and sculptures of large installations is really there, there’s a huge gap between top artists and the rest of us and that kind of work is in high demand. The best pieces can run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars, if not millions. Our first installation
was in the Philippines on a twenty six meter-long wall that was eighty thousand dollars. Another one in Singapore and we’re just about to do another in Jakarta. So we’re poised for it. For the past three years I’ve been training my staff to the level where I can just point and they know what to do. Famous last words? There’s a community of artists here that are sort of unsung heroes in a lot of ways. Right here in Ubud...we’re all very close. We support each other, there's good comradeship and we live our own lives and sell our works and have our own little kingdom, so to speak. People are not really aware of what’s happening in Ubud and it’s overwhelming that there’s so much mediocre art everywhere. Of course there’s some really great art, but that gets glazed over, and I don’t know why that is? I guess when Walter Spies and those guys w’re here doing their thing there was nobody else, there weren't painters everywhere, so I think we’re taken for granted, if you will. There are some damn fine artists here. I’m really curious to see what happens in the next five to ten years, as individuals and as a collective. www.horizonglassworks.com
osw oop Michael Andrews gets up close and personal with Indonesia's National Bird and makes friends with a youthful Cockatoo on a visit to The Bali Bird Park. Photos: Yaeko Masuda
What if you are a small white bird with a total wild population on the planet of six (including you)? And ever since the Bali Tiger was declared extinct in 1937, you are now Bali’s sole surviving endemic, vertebrate species? If you’re a Bali Starling, you’ve become extremely thankful that since 2001, when your kind was almost completely wiped out, you now have forty five family members living in protected freedom at the Bali Bird Park. This is the residence for many endangered and protected species...Birds of Paradise, Macaws, Pesquet’s Parrots, Black Palm Cockatoos...they all live and play in a park that additionally houses one of the rarest of all raptors, the Javan hawk-eagle. Along with other hawks, eagles and falcons, these are key performers in the park’s rousing Birds of Prey show. The natural and mostly open-air setting of the spacious aviary allows many of its feathered tenants to wander around freely or sit on a perch ready to hop up onto a visitor’s arm or shoulder. This is no longer the case, however, for a pair of Lesser Ajutants, who used to roam the grounds unfettered but now reside in a large cage, no thanks to a hasty Balinese tour guide who frequently brings tours here. The story behind the reasoning as to why these two members of the stork family became recently enclosed is recounted to me by Bayu Yustita, one of the park's managers. It seems that the visiting tour guide had been on a tight time schedule and was hurrying his group through a tour of the park when he was faced with the big (their wingspan is two meters), and prehistorically ugly vulturelooking creatures. His attempt to shoo the bird away used a little too much force and zeal for the couple’s liking and wasn’t easily forgotten. On his subsequent visits, the birds, which feed on rodents and
reptiles in the wild, “chased the guide all around the park trying to bite him,” Bayu continues. “After this undesirable welcoming persisted for some time, the guide finally came to us and begged us to cage the birds. We conceded as a measure to protect him as well for the safety of his other guests.” The birds, with memories like elephants, were given a roomy home in the Borneo region of the park, but don’t think for a moment they’ve given up their grudge against the guide, for Bayu reports that the couple still “stare him down with angry faces” every time he walks by. In the Birds of Prey show, the Brahminy Kites and Javan hawk-eagles free-fly during the performance, which includes the staging of a stunt in which the circling raptors compete to be victorious by being the first to swoopin to snatch a bite of food off the head of a somewhat unsuspecting volunteer. I asked Soleh, one of the trainers who has worked at the park since 1996, if the birds ever try to make a break for it during the shows. Soleh, who appears much more at ease handling raptors than
journalists, tells me that on occasion, while circling above the crowd, the Hawk-eagle will catch sight of a small animal in the nearby rice fields and will neglect its performing duties in favour of seizing the prey. The trainers then track down the hawk and while it’s feasting on its fresh kill they pick it up and carry it back to the fold. For the Brahminy Kite, which in the wild scavenges dead fish in wetlands, Soleh informs me that on windy days, the mid-sized raptors can unintentionally get swept up into the sky by a strong wind current, only to faithfully return on their own, without fail, after two or three hours of roaming around. It takes around six months for the falcons, hawks and eagles to complete the training necessary to be show-ready for free flying, he tells me, during which time each bird of prey becomes very attached to its individual instructor. Later it will refuse to perform with anyone else. The dark brown Javan hawk-eagle is endemic to the humid tropical rainforests of Java, with its only living wild population limited to residence there. Ironically, it may have been through the Indonesian’s government effort to protect the Javan hawk-eagle and the ensuing publicity around making it the National Bird that inadvertently increased its scarcity by creating higher visibility and demand on the black market. It’s currently listed as an endangered species with an estimated 600 remaining in Java. The Curator of the Bali Bird Park is Pak Nengah Nuyana. His duties include being a bird keeper, bird trainer, veterinary and
chef (he prepares meals three times a day for the 1,000 birds and 250 different species, of which 40 are listed as protected). It had always been Nengah’s childhood dream to dedicate his life’s work to bird conservation and after completing his studies in Biology he was thrilled to be hired by the park when it opened in 1995. The philosophy of care that the Bird Park uses is referred to “ExSitu Conservation”, which strives to create an area of protected freedom where the birds can thrive and breed. Protected from predators and poachers and guaranteed regular healthy food, the birds live a somewhat privileged, almost idyllic life, at the park. For the critically endangered Bali Starling, whose beauty is accentuated with blue skin around its eyes, Nengah cautions: “In the wild, the Starling faces danger from snakes, squirrels and civets, but by far the most dangerous predator on the list for the last forty years has been humans.” Unfortunately, as the Bali Starling has become increasingly rare, their demand has similarly escalated. Owning the bird as a pet has become a status symbol to Indonesian’s affluent. This travesty has driven up prices on the black market to a point where a couple of Bali Starlings can illegally fetch a poacher Rp80 million. As part of the Indonesian government’s response, the Captive Breeding Centre at the National Park near Labuhan Lalang was established. Despite it being protected by military patrols armed with machine guns, in 1999 a heavily armed criminal gang made off with 39 of the precious birds. Its incidents like these that make the success of the breeding program at the Bali Bird Park all
osw oop destination
the more important. Efforts there have increased the flock of Bali Starlings from an initial donation of two to a total today of forty five. Nengah says with great pride: “Thirty of the birds were hatched in our breeding grounds on site with the other fifteen birds coming from outside to strengthen the genetic diversity of the flock.” The park obtained these additional starlings by using their stock of other rare birds to barter with The Indonesian Zoological Parks Associations. As my Saturday afternoon visit to the Bird Park drew to a close, I checked out the “Meet the Birds” show. There I was introduced to a Black Palm Cockatoo named Anna, with spiky hair with the look and feel of quick-dry foam fabric. While I was hanging out with the other feathered performers after the show, Anna kept motioning her foot in the air until I took her hint and stuck out my arm so she could delightedly hop on. At 15 years old Anna would be at an advanced age for other domesticated animals, such as cats or dogs, but she’s young for her species, which has been documented to live up to a 108 years old, suggesting that she might be alive long enough to possibly entertain the kids of my great grandchildren 93 years from now in the year 2102. Here’s hoping that by then, the minuscule, one might say bird-brained, mentality that would lead someone to illegally purchase a critically endangered species on the black market is the only thing that will become extinct, and that the Bali Starling will again be flourishing in the wild. And if one of my future descendants does return to the Bali Bird Park in the 22nd century, possibly carrying a tattered and worn copy of this particular magazine tucked under his or her arm, they just might have the fortunate opportunity as I did, to make friends with the same cheerful Black Palmed Cockatoo.
The definitive guide to our thoughts, tastes and tributes to Ubud and surrounds.
Birds & Bees • Out & About • Homestays • Festivals • Galleries • Eco Illustrations in The List by Captain Freddie.
relics at The Shop have been knowledgeably hand-sourced from around the region. Unique silver mosquito net tie backs, Jewelery, handicrafts and fashion items are also available for that ever important souvenir.
Bali Adventure Tours Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480. Map Ref: C2 (Rafting) www.baliadventuretours.com. Long-established Bali adventure tours operator with activities ranging from river kayaking, white water rafting, jungle trekking and mountain cycling, as well as the Bali Elephant Safari Park at Taro (see entry under Wildlife).
ARAK Noun: arrack |arak; arak| |arak| |arøk| |arak| (also arak). An alcoholic liquor typically distilled from the sap of the coconut palm or from rice. Clear and colourless with a sharp biting taste, arak in Bali is a distillation of tuak, produced by fermenting the sap of the flower bud of any of a number of species of palm. Origin early 17th cent.: from Arabic araq ‘sweat’, from the phrase arak al-tamr, denoting an alcoholic spirit made from dates.
Bali Bird Park & Rimba Reptil Jl. Singapadu, Batu Bulan. Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com With over 1,000 birds and 250 different species, walk through an avian rainforest, catch a film at the 4D avian theatre and top that off with a reptilian experience of dragon proportions at Rimba Reptil. If animals are not your thing, the landscaped gardens of all things tropical and botanical are well worth a visit.
ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS
Alphabetical musings, meanderings and more from The Bud team...
Bali Bird Walks Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975009. www.balibirdwalk.com Join Su-made (and if you’re lucky the one-andonly Victor
Mason) on a well-informed and delightful bird walk around the Campuhan hills. Sobek Bina Utama Jl. Raya Tebongkang No. 33 Ubud. Tel: 0361-287059. www.balisobek.com Map Ref: B.3 Established in 1989, Sobek Bina Utama was the first adventure tour company of its kind on the island and continues to offer excellent rafting, cycling and eco trail tours in Bali. ANTIQUES Gallery Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur. com Map Ref: L7
Respected dealer in tribal art, antiquities, ornaments and texiles, Macan Tidur is often cited as ‘the best shop in Bali’. Clients include collectors, architects, hotels and museums.
3 Brothers + 1 Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0813 3874 5650. The Balinese artist family of Nyoman Budiarta, Ketut Budiarsa, Wayan Piadnya and Made Budiana, stands together as an inspiring lesson in the power of art to heal and overcome limitations.
Kusia Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan No. 99X, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973113. Fascinating and longestablished shop dealing with Balinese cultural artifacts.
Adi`s Art Studio & Gallery. Jl. Bisma 102, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977104. Featuring an eclectic mix of sculptures, paintings and readymade objets d’art by artist Adi Bachmann and a number of talented Balinese artists.
The Shop Sayan Jl. Raya Sayan No. 52, Br Kutuh Sayan - Ubud. Tel: 0361- 973508 www.ShopatTheShop.com Map Ref:C3 With a 15th century reclining Bhudda marble statue as the ‘piece d resistance’ the artefacts, antiques and
Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) Jl. Bima, Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-974228. www.armamuseum.com One of the most distinguished museums in Bali, ARMA exhibits work by many of the island’s celebrated names including Spies, Bonnet, Hofker Continued overleaf.
thosewere the days
FOLLOWING the fire that occurred shortly before Christmas 1972 at La Taverna in Sanur (see The Bud, vol 1 July/Sept’09), I headed for the hills and presently found myself installed at Tjokorda Raka Johnny’s tranquil lodgings – Puri Anyar, formerly known as Hotel Ubud – situated directly behind the Puri Saren or Ubud Palace. Tjok Johnny, scion of the princely Sukawati dynasty, was the most charming and affable host. Previously chief of police – not only of Bali but the entire nation – he would regale me with his endless reminiscing whilst squatting on his stoop or pottering about his unkempt garden, full of butterflies and birds. What a lovely place… and what a lovely chap! Chief of the Ubud police was Sergeant Roda, artist, flautist and superb raconteur, who visited near daily under one pretext or another. It was he who gave me the ingredients of Silih Dalih – the tale of the blue monkey messenger and his hilarious dealings with all the other members of the banjar binatang (animal community). As I said in the introduction – ‘What an immensely sane and serene world we should inhabit were all policemen like him.’ Tjokorda Raka Johnny as well. But apart from that idyllic interlude lasting a mere several weeks, I found myself for the most part side-tracked in the nether regions. Then one day a lady hove in view – a very grand lady. Her name was Fiona. She was a gaff-rigged ketch, built by Newman’s of Poole in 1906, and on her second circumnavigation of the globe. Would I care to crew? Time once more to cross the water. It wasn’t until the end of 1973 that I decided Ubud was the place for me, and I took up residence at Pak Adur’s, which in those days was operated as an annexe of the Hotel Tjampuhan. Ah – the good Hotel Shampoo! It was the only civilized watering-hole this side of the Black Stump (aka Murni’s Warung), which was not actually established until a year or two later. Consisting of a few thatched huts, discretely spaced on the slopes above the rushing River Wos, it boasted a bucolic bar, behind which resided a hefty ice-chest, replete with large bottles of Bintang. Here would I repair most evenings and commune with the guests, invariably Aussies booked in by Jack de Lissa’s Bali Travel Service. Frank Margan, restaurateur, vigneron, and author of The Grape and I, and Jennie Lamb, whose father was a wine-merchant in Australia, ran the show – so we had much in common. ‘The House that Jack built’ was erected on the site where Colin McPhee (A House in Bali, 1947) made his home – the first of a succession of expatriate dwellings on the Sayan Ridge, overlooking the Ayung River. Jack took me there one day, on a heavenly stroll through fields and streams, half a mile west-bound from Tjampuhan. It was then and there that I decided to build my own house, somewhere around the halfway mark, on the outskirts of Penestanan. Of course there were no made-up roads in those days. Beyond the Hotel Shampoo was a cobbled cart-track, and the only way to attain Penestanan was to walk. Between sessions at the Shampoo
Victor Mason recalls his early days in Ubud… and beyond. and bouts of butterfly collecting, I built my original bamboo barn. I don’t think electricity arrived in the area until circa 1980; and definitely no telly! But I have always managed to live quite happily without these appurtenances. Telephones too. In those days there were three: the police station and Puri Saren had them, and Blanco had one – wind-up jobs that put you through to the switchboard in Gianyar, so long as it wasn’t raining somewhere in between. There were trips overseas in the interim. I could not survive in Bali on Bintang and fresh air alone. Besides, my wines and spirits biz – and never mind the clocks and socks and scents and prêtà-porter – demanded my attention periodically. Nothing urgent of course. Things were very different then from the high-powered slog and instant communication of today’s business world. An occasional cable or telex would be brought to my notice, and the odd principal might be heard muttering – ‘Now where on earth is that fellow Mason?’ So did I divide my time – six months of the year on the road, the rest in Paradise. Gradually the bamboo barn took shape, and I know I moved in well before completion, occupying the central turret or belvedere, while the construction proceeded apace around me. Idyllic and inspirational, brimming with creative energy, the muse presided, and this was the mise-en-scène of my Haughty Toad. And here was the most ingenious bird-watching hide yet devised. The height from the well of the lower deck to the apex of the topmost tier was something over 60 feet, and visitors afflicted with vertigo were not encouraged to ascend the unguarded spiral staircase connecting the twain. No functionary would ever make the attempt. I was impregnable. Peering out over the roof, I could look into the nests of little birds, and watch their babies grow. Christmas 1974 marked the occasion of my house-warming. That was a party and a half, with topeng by Dewa Putu Kandel and the Gong Balgunadi of Pangopango. As always, Desak Nyoman Suarti was the brightest star. The owners of the Hotel Shampoo were mildly miffed, however, since every one of their guests foreswore the establishment’s celebratory dinner, and stormed up the steps to oblivion. I got married to a local lass the following year, and the story of our bulan madu, and the fellowship of Brag (I Wayan Latre) and Sir (Putu Suarsa Adyputra) and me is told elsewhere in Bali Hash, under the little – The Long Hot Summer of ’76. Our Bali chapter of the Hash House Harriers was then founded in May ’77, with our spiritual headquarters at what was now known as Murni’s Warung, next to Tjampuhan Bridge. And so it remained until I was unceremoniously chucked out for alleged conduct unbecoming. “You bloody idiot,” they said: “Now where’re we going to on on on?” O deary me! What shall we do? Back to the good Hotel Shampoo!
Keep an eye out for it as you walk towards Ubud palace on the right-hand side of Monkey Forest road.
and Affandi. Open daily from 9am to 6pm, except holidays. Agung Rai Fine Art Gallery Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975449, 974562. www.agungraigallery.com Selected works of fine art picked by owner Agung Rai for what he describes as a “spiritual connection he feels between a painting and himself”.
Museum Neka Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975074. www.museumneka.com One of Ubud’s oldest and best established galleries, Neka Museum features all the greats from Ubud’s artworld in a traditional Balinese setting with a fabulous ravine view. Open daily 8am to 5pm except holidays.
Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975502. www.blancomuseum.com Dedicated to the life and work of the late Filippino artist Antonio Blanco (and curated by his artistic son Mario), this intriguing museum space includes the artist’s original studio, gardens, aviaries and family temple. Open daily from 9am to 5pm. Bali Kuno at The Mansion Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972616 www.themansionbali.com Witness a celebration of Bali’s golden age of the 1920s. Images of Bali’s dance legends Ni Polock and Ni Ronji and others take part in an intimate cultural exhibition. Gaya ArtSpace Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-979252. www.gayafusion.com High concept space offering major exhibitions by both international and local artists featuring contemporary art, paintings, performance, installations and sculptures. Genta Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No1, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978272. www.museumrudana.com/ gentagallery
Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975136. www.museumpurilukisan.com Bali’s first museum features exquisite examples of Balinese art styles in drawing, painting and wood carving. Museum Puri Lukisan was established in 1954 and boasts among its past curators the artist Rudolf Bonnet. Open daily 8am to 4pm except holidays. International art collectors, painters, performers and travellers alike acclaim Genta’s fine art collection. Part of the Museum Rudana art empire. Hanna Art Space Jl Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978216. With an accent on artists from Surabaya, Hanna Art Space intends to uncover the ‘underdog’ of art by bringing new and creative art to the visual forefront of Ubud’s gallery walls. Han Snel Gallery Jl Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan, Tel: 0361 975 699, 974 271 Fax: 0361 975 643 www.hansnelbungalow.com View the works of one of
Indonesia’s most celebrated foreign artists...Han Snel. Run by his widow Siti, the Han Snel Gallery is located in the grounds of the bungalow complex opened by the artist. Komaneka Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976090. www.gallery.komaneka.com Map Ref: P7 Komaneka Fine Art Gallery features unique work by young Indonesian and overseas artists with ‘vision’ and an accent on kontemporer. It was built in 1996 with the aim of sharing the experience of living with art. Young contemporary artists exhibit their canvases and installations to those who stay at the resort and those who pop in or walk by the gallery.
Museum Rudana Jln. Cok Rai Pudak no.44 Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975779. www.museumrudana.com Museum Rudana boasts an excellent collection of Balinese and other Indonesian fine arts by the likes of I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Affandi, Supono and Antonio Blanco in an elaborate new gallery that stands in its own grounds. Open Mon-Sat 9am to 5pm and on Sundays from midday to 5pm. Nyoman Sumerta Fine Art Gallery Banjar Teges, Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975267. www.sumerta-gallery.com Highlights the richness of ideas and imagination of Indonesian artists with an emphasis on
local Balinese painting. Oracle Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978611 www.sculpturebyfilippos.com The gallery of Greek sculptor and Ubud resident Filippos, Oracle is an artist’s dreamscape inspired by the creative imaginings of one of Ubud’s most flamboyant sculptors. Pranoto’s Art Gallery Jl. Tirta Tawar No. 34, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto Pranoto’s Art Gallery is a lively, active place in the heart of the Bali arts community. Hosts life-drawing model sessions, exhibitions and a large fine art collection of paintings by Indonesian and international artists. Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women Jl. Sriwidari 2B, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975485. www.seniwatigallery.com Seniwati supports and showcases more than 70 female artists with a wide variety of styles and also houses a shop for and about women, from where you can buy crafts, some of them by artists who exhibit in the gallery. Sika Contemporary Art Gallery Jln. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975727/975084. www.sikagallery.info Artist curator I. Wayan Sika and his contemporaries of the Sanggar Dewata Artist Association, seek to push the visual arts envelope at this gallery, which condemns modem commercial art as “too sweet, like candy”.
BANJAR Noun ( pl. -jar) Balinese neighbourhood association that plans, organises and executes the great majority of activities that make up Balinese life. Every Balinese belongs to a banjar, which has from one hundred to several hundred members. Each banjar has a meeting hall, the bale banjar, which is always divided into three parts: the banjar temple, the secular meeting place, and the kitchen. The death of any member of a banjar makes it obligatory for all male members of the banjar to show up immediately, spend every night at the house of the deceased, prepare various temporary structures for the death ceremonies and burial, wash the body, carry it to the cemetery and help with the burial. Banjars often have gotong royong, or work gangs, called upon to repair the bale banjar, clean the streets, build a road or plant trees. Symon Studios Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. www.symonstudios.com A Campuhan landmark for over a quarter century, Symon’s somewhat rakish Ubud Studio is the original Art Zoo. The artist has lived in Bali since 1978 and is best known for his bold portraits of sensual young Balinese men. TonyRaka Art Gallery Jln. Raya Mas No. 86, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7816785. www.tonyrakaartgallery.com One of Ubud’s prominent art galleries – and art characters – is Tony Raka. Respected by artists and collectors alike, he is an enthusiastic promoter of contemporary Balinese and Indonesian art. Tony Raka’s is a gallery for people who like the questions art poses. Apart from a large modern building where the permanent collection hangs, there is a vast Balinese pavilion for temporary exhibitions and a new exhibition building. Both the gallery and the gardens, festooned with orchids, are well worth a visit. W. Gallery Jl.Bisma #3, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977978. firstname.lastname@example.org Art for conservation. The W. Gallery was established in July 2007 as an effort to raise money for conservation through artwork. The gallery
Blue Cat Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel. 0361-971310. It’s all about jazz here with Simon Kinny Lewis – Sydneybased blues guitarist, singer and songwriter – as one of the talents behind this laid back bar.
hosts local Balinese artists who have committed to donating a percentage of every sale to support the work of FNPF.
B BARS Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Map Ref: Since its lavish revamp from a humble eatery to a posh bar and dining experience fitting the likes of Beverly Hills, Ary’s Warung has been the place to be seen in central Ubud. The menu is mod-Australian inspired – that is, fresh produce, the best of meats, and simple preparation. Food aside, this is also a great bar with an open-plan atmosphere and tasteful design. The service, food and drinks are all good – it’s also a great meeting point in the centre of Ubud, anytime of the day.
Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972706 . www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K4 Pop in anytime, after 10.30 in the morning, for mocktails or cocktails, Smirnoff or Sambucca. Cafe des Artistes also has an extensive wine list and is open until midnight. One of Ubud’s popular yet quietly romantic eating and drinking venues. Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975354. www.coffeesilver.com One of the most popular dropin and come-as-you-please restaurant bars in Ubud. Based at the bottom of the Monkey Forest hill it is perfectly placed to quench that thirst before the stroll up the three in one. Flava Lounge Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel. 0361-972953 www.flavaloungebali.com Young, hip and urban (or as urban as one can be in Ubud)
CALENDARS: To the outsider, the Balinese calendar of worship can appear startlingly complex, comprising, as it does, both a lunar calendar – each month starting on the day after a new moon, with the full moon occurring in the middle – and a 210-day ritual cycle. The lunar calendar is based on that used in parts of India and numbered from the founding of the Indian Saka Dynasty in AD 78, so that the year 1900 in Bali began in 1979. The 210-day pawukon cycle is indigenous to Bali, however, and differs from other calendars in that its dates are not measured as years, perhaps because it has its roots in the growing period for rice. The pawukon cycle is subdivided yet again into a number of shorter cycles, which run concurrently. These comprise a number of three, five and seven day “weeks” which have no correlation to conventional time but are used to determine holy days. Each day is said to have its own god, constellation and omen indicating good or bad times for activities ranging from construction to cremation. yet with a holistic feel. Comfy seating, shisha pipes and free WiFi that mixes well with the juices, the cocktails and café style menu. Han Snel Bungalows Tel: 0361 975 699, 974 271 | Fax: 0361 975 643 www.hansnelbungalow.com A horseshoe-shaped counter here gives the bar at Han Snel Bungalows a distinctly convivial atmosphere...easy to remember the artist Han Snel himself sitting here drinking Bintang and regaling all-comers with tales from his past. Located half way down Jalan Kajeng on the left. Jati Bar The Four Seasons Sayan Jl. Raya Kedewatan. Tel: 0361-977577 www.fourseasons.com/sayan Sophistication is the name of the game here (unsurprisingly given the Four Seasons brand). Perched atop the breathtaking Sayan Ridge, the vibe is mystically romantic. Worldclass views and flavours. Jazz Café Jl. Sukma # 2, Tebesaya, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976594. www.jazzcafebali.com A true Ubud classic that hosts local and international jazz stars, along with great bar snacks and full menu. Live music nightly except Sundays and Mondays, 7.30pm until 10.30pm.
Mozaic – The Lounge Jl. Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975768. www.mozaic-bali.com. A welcome addition to Mozaic’s award-winning restaurant oasis, The Lounge offers sublime cocktails and jazzy ambience. A taste of the future with excellence on all levels, this is a discerning and stylish atmosphere with a range of drinks fitting for one
of Bali’s best fine dining spots (see Mozaic’s entry under Restaurants). There’s also a piano in the corner, should you feel like getting on the ivories, but be warned – the cocktails are quality standard and likely to promote over-exuberance. The manager is a chap called Rakesh, a man possessed of devilishy suave sub continental aplomb. Naughty Nuri’s Jl. Raya Sanggingan, opposite Neka Museum. Tel: 0361-977547. Another longtime Ubud
institution – the marriage of Ubud and New York sensibilities à la Brian and Nuri – Naughty Nuri’s serves mean, brimming Martinis, gargantuan Bloody Mary’s and home-cooked food, all in an open, road-side grille. Famous for its ribs (See entry under Restaurants).
Periplus Jl. Raya Ubud & Bintang Supermarket, Campuhan and Monkey Forest Rd. www.peripluseditions.co.id Ubiquitous chain bookstorecum-cafe stocking hundreds of titles on Bali and beyond. Buy your take-home copy of The Bud and The Yak here.
Ozigo Jl. Sanggingan, Ubud, Next to Nuri’s Nacho Mama. www.ozigobarubud.blogspot. com When you’re pissed enough on Brian’s Martinis, join the fun-loving mix of great live cover bands and DJs as they lead you in to the late night! Suspiciously large and colourful drinks.
Terazo Jl. Suweta, Ubud Tel: 0361-978941. A stylish and somewhat famous spot in town for savvy cocktails with superb fingerfood and full menu. Great music and atmosphere.
Divya Boutique 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K10 Exquisite handmade batik shop incorporating both traditional and modern designs into cotton, silk and canvas textiles. All dresses, sarongs, shirts and scarves at Divya – which is part of Nomad Restaurant on Ubud Main Street – are individually hand made using the ‘batik tulis’ process, which means patterns are hand-drawn and painted. Prices range from $70 to $180. Each piece is entirely original – no mass produced cottons here.
Ganesha Book Shop Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-970320. www.ganeshabooksbali.com A veritable treasure chest of second-hand books and beautiful weighty ones of the coffee table variety. You can also find magazines, bestsellers and postcards here.
Botanic Gardens Ubud Kutuh Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7463389 www.botanicgardenbali.com Situated at an elevation of between 320 and 400 metres above sea level, the Botanic Gardens Ubud offers a range of micro-climates including ravine, hillside, meadow, a river,
the list waterfalls and natural forest on a vast six hectare property. Situated in the village of Kutuh Kaja just outside Ubud, the Gardens face the bird village of Petulu, home of the famous white egrets.
Jl. Suweta No. 1, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com Half-day cooking programs with Balinese chefs teaching a wide variety of traditional island food.
Botanical Gardens at Bali Bird Park Jl. Singapadu, Batubulan. Tel: 0361-975009. www.bali-bird-park.com More than 2,000 tropical florae spread their leaves over this two hectare property. A lotus and water lily collection, as well as 50 varieties of palm tree in the dense rainforest setting complete this day out in nature.
you through the creation of three traditional recipes (which will also be yuor lunch!) A gentle wander back to the hotel grounds with views of Mount Batukaru is as much of a gift as the recipes you created that day. Casa Luna Restaurant
Botanical Gardens at Elephant Safari Park Taro Bali Adventure Tours, Jl. Raya Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pessangaran, Sanur. Tel: 0361-721480 www.baliadventuretours.com This park is not just about elephants – throughout this 3.5 hectare wildlife haven are myriad indigenous plant species and a fabulous orchid display.
COOKING CLASSES Bumbu Bali Restaurant
Mozaic Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975768. www.mozaic-bali.com Map Ref: C3 So not your average cooking class! Award-winning chef Chris Salans (think Table du Monde) will invite you into his ultra-modern Miele kitchen where you can choose to take a workshop that will enhance your culinary craft in either local or Mozaic-style cuisine. The Workshop space is also open to Chef’s dinners and private cocktail parties. Kupu Kupu Barong Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A2 Balinese cooking secrets revealed in one of Ubud’s most charming resorts. Learn to cook a classic three-course Balinese meal of Soto Udan, Pepes Ikan and Dadar Gulung which make up the delicious lunch to follow.
C COCKFIGHTING Cockfighting|käk faiti ng | noun | Balinese ‘Tajen’ | The sport (banned in 1981 in Indonesia except for three rounds permitted prior to temple ceremonies) of setting two cocks to fight each other. Fighting cocks often have their legs fitted with sharpened metal spurs. A cockfight is not only allowed at every Balinese temple festival, it is required. The blood is an offering to the hungry forces of evil.
class notes. Guests of the Honeymoon Guesthouses receive a 10% discount on all cooking classes.
Ubud Hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com Part nature walk, part culinary experience. Walk along the Ayung River and up to a village where the locals grow spices and vegetables. Then come to what is described as the hotel’s ‘indigenous outdoor kitchen’, located amongst the rice fields. The chef will inform and guide
Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J6 Join Casa Luna’s own Janet De Neefe and team and discover the exotic spices and ingredients of Balinese food. Explore cooking techniques, alternative ingredients and fascinating kitchen myths of this unique culture. Each session includes a lavish Balinese feast with complete
Maya Ubud Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977888. www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: L17 In one easy hour, Maya Ubud’s master chefs will teach you five traditional Balinese dishes and then invite you for lunch. Take home a complimentary recipe book to continue your Balinese culinary education. The Secret Garden Cooking School Penestanan Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-979395. www.balisecretgarden.com One and two-day hands-on
the list intensive courses will allow you to learn, understand and appreciate Balinese cooking at its best. Learn of the spices, herbs, meat and vegetables that go into perparing a Balinese banquet. From appetisers to dessert, all in a tropical outdoor restaurant pavilion.
Tel: 0361-7810631. www.indigobali.com Art and artifacts, natural dye batiks & ikats, handcrafted, earth-conscious clothing, jewelry, gifts, furniture and home accessories.
Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978250. www.omangallery.com Modern Art • Design • Ethnic • Antiques reads the business card of this well laid out gallery shop – from antiques to lamps to knick knacks for interiors. On
Tegun Gallery Jl. Hanoman #44B, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970992. Woodcrafting for the home and garden. A unique collection of inspiring traditional Folk art from across the archipelago.
D DHARMA (Sanskrit) Meaning righteousness. The orderly fulfilment of inherent duty. A religious duty, according to one’s caste. Adharma is unrighteousness or the lack of observation of this duty, and brings accumulation of demerit.
Prima Medika Hospital (Outpost) Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Mas, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972374. www.primamedika.com A hospital favoured among longtime expats, Prima Medika’s main facility is in Denpasar, approx 45 minutes by car. Open from 8am-8pm.
Sayan Aesthetic Institute Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972648 www.aestheticbali.com Bali joins the rest of the world on the age reversal, rejuvenation and appearance optimization stage. Sayan Aesthetic Institute, an Australian-developed aesthetic clinic located on the stunning grounds of a luxury resort in Sayan, offers all visitors to Bali the complete range of one visit procedures. Also on the beauty enhancement side, the high-tech dental studio is a must. CEREC from SIRONA Germany is a world leader in beautiful, resorative dentistry and most procedures can be done in one visit. Compare the cost of treatments in other Asia Pacific destinations and you will find yourself pleasantly surprised. CRAFTS Indigo Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud
The Linda Garland Estate Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974017. Linda@indosat.net.id Linda Garland’s worldrenowned river-estate is an amazing tribute to the potential of bamboo in all its forms. Mick Jagger loved this place so much he got married here...well sort of.
Macan Tidur Gallery Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur.com Map Ref: L6 Whilst one half of Macan Tidur (otherwise known as Sleeping Tiger) is for exquisite antiques, the other half supports local craftsmen to continue their creative traditions whilst also supporting innovations. One of Bali’s best places to buy unique pieces for gifts or interiors. Oman Gallery
the hill that leads to cocktails or culture – just steps away from Naughty Nuri’s and the Neka Museum. Sayan Square Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 081236 806100 A one-stop shop where you can find a variety of items from batik to fashion, gifts to handicrafts, home decor to home spa products. If one of you shops and the other does not, coffee and the delicious handcrafted JBay ice cream is also on the schedule.
The Green School Jl. Raya Sibang Kaja, Banjar Saren, Abiansemal. Tel: 0361-469875 www.greenschool.org. A powerful community jointventure school and event centre on the river. Well worth an afternoon looksee. Utama Spice - Bali Herb Walk & Jamu Class Banjar Pengosekan, Jl Kaja Kauh #8, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975051 or 0812 3816 020. www.utamaspicebali.com Contact Lilir for secrets of
the list DANCE: “No feast is complete in Bali,” penned the Mexican writer Miguel Covarrubias in 1937, “without music and elaborate dramatic and dance performances. No one would dream of getting married, or holding a cremation, or even of celebrating a child’s birthday, without engaging troupes of dancers and actors to entertain the guests and neighbours.” Dance and drama remain central to the Balinese way, colourful spectacles in the life of the culture. In fact Covarrubias and his wife became such enthusiastic theatregoers during their time on the island they “sometimes they had to make a point of staying home to catch up with lost sleep”. The Mexican chronicler wrote in his still definitive book, Island of Bali: “Even the tired peasant who works all day in the fields does not mind staying up at night to watch a show, and the little children who invariably make up the front rows of the audience remain there until dawn for the end, occasionally huddled together taking naps, but wide awake for the exciting episodes of the play.” Next to having good orchestras, a fine group of dancers is an imperative need for the spiritual and physical well being of the community. When a society has enough money for the elaborate costumes needed for public appearance, the village banjar or community association gives an inauguration festival to bless the clothes. All actors, dancers, or story-tellers undergo the same ceremony – in the case of a dancer, a priest uses the stem of a flower to inscribe magic syllables on the face, head, tongue and hands in order to make the dancer attractive to the eyes of the public. It is not only on this occasion that dancers pray for success; before every performance they make small offerings to the deities of the dance.
jamu, Indonesia’s practice of traditional herbal medicine.
F FESTIVALS Bali Spirit Festival www.balispiritfestival.com A vibrant and uplifting annual international celebration of yoga, dance and music held in Ubud, the Bali Spirit Festival brings international artists and yoga practitioners together to inspire change in our world. Held in April/May each year at the Bali Purnati Centre for the Arts in Batuan. Go online and sign up for the Bali Spirit newsletter to stay in the loop about next year’s event. Ubud Writers and Readers
& Writers Festival brings together writers, readers, artists and performers in a week-long program that’s put Ubud on the map as an international centre for the arts. Check the website for details, news, and updates as to who is coming this year and how to get tickets to the literary lunches, workshops and talks. Ubud Full Moon Festival Jl. Penenstanan, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972616 On the night of the full moon legend comes alive. Each month under the tropical Balinese sky, experience a night of cultural heritage with the epic of the Mahabaratha: Arjuna and the seven Bidadri and the traditional Djanger performance accompany you and a traditional Rijstaffel or Indonesian Rice Table feast. Bookings required.
www.ubudwritersfestival.com One of the six best literary festivals in the world (according to Harper’s Bazaar UK at least), the Ubud Readers
Horizon Glassworks Jl. Raya Kengetan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7804014. www.horizonglassworks.com Map Ref: F1 Handmade glass, expert
craftmanship, best materials and great prices on solid sculpture and more. Trained at the world-recognised centre for hot glass – Pilchuck Glass School in Washington State’s Cascade Mountains – Horizon Glassworks founder Ron Seivertson believes the process of creating hot glass art is all encompassing. “There is something about the material that is alive,” he says. “Before being melted it is pure silica sand; after melting it is glass, and it will be glass forever – there is an alchemy in this process.” Ron transforms molten glass into sophisticated sculptures and vessels alike, capturing the fragile beauty of the subjects that inspire his work. Visit the workshop on the south end of Sayan Ridge and see art in creation. Monday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm. GALUNGAN (Noun). A religious festival that takes place on Wednesday of the week Dunggulan in the Balinese calendar and which celebrates the victory of dharma (religious duty) over adharma, (or the lack of observance of this duty).
Air Bali Dewa Ruci Building No. 2 Simpang Siur, By Pass Ngurah Rai, Kuta. Tel: (24 Hour hotline) +62 813 3876 9756 or +62 812 3836 321. www.airbali.com Sky tours, volcano flights, aerial photography…or maybe you just need to get up to Ubud in a hurry. Air Bali’s helicopter service covers the bases. Landing pad at The Viceroy Bali. HOMESTAYS Alam Indah Family Hotels Nyuh Kuning village. Tel: 0361-974629. www.alamindahbali.com Jati 3 Bungalows & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973349 & 977101. www.jati3bungalows.com Kebun Indah (Beautiful Garden) Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-973366 www.alamidahbali.com Padi Prada Suite – Resto – Gallery Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978972 & 970979 www.balihotels.com/ubud/ padiprada.php
jiwajuice The world is a reflection of you. Time to appreciate…and change it, writes Nicky Kassapian. START your day connecting with the centre of the earth and the sky. This means that you are grounded, anchored between the earth and the sky and you can walk through your day with your eyes on the bigger picture, guided by your heart and with your feet firmly on the ground. You being this way makes a difference for everyone you come into contact with. Yes, it is all about you! It’s a great space to set your intention for the day. A word on intentions – they can include how you are going to go about your day, not just what you want to happen, what deals you want to conclude and so forth. Ask yourself what kind of people you wish to encounter. Would your preference be helpful, calm, relaxed, dynamic, appreciative and peaceful people? Or would you rather snappy, intolerant, demanding, ungracious, unforgiving and aggressive…? As you contemplate this, be aware that this is the type of person you must intend to be throughout your day too, so that you will also experience this. As unpleasant as it may be to appreciate, the world is a reflection of you. Owning the fact that whatever you are experiencing out there is actually coming from inside of you, is going to bring about major changes in the way you perceive and experience life…and how others will interact with you. You are doing the whole planet a favour and changing what we all experience, which, given the ripple, domino, even the butterfly effect, encourages others to do the same. Now that you’re moving towards appreciation, it’s simple to take it a step further and really make a difference. Here’s a fun, effective and easy way forwards, which you can do anywhere, anytime, no previous experience necessary. I remembered this early this morning as I sat down to enjoy a bowl of fruit for breakfast. I pressed pause…and before I took a mouthful decided to move into a space of appreciation for everything that had contributed to the end result – that bowl of fruit salad on the table before me. I started by appreciating – thanking the sun, the earth and the water, all elements that enabled the fruit to grow, ripen and be
succulent. I moved on to the eco system, the trees and insects, straight on to the fruit picker, the person who then took it to the market – and this involved a monetary sidestep to the people who had made the road, the people who had made the truck, the steel for the body, the rubber for the tyres, the plastic for the component parts, the oil refineries and all the people who work in that industry; the petrol attendant and the driver of the transport – then back to the market, those who had built the market space, those who had mined the stone, excavated the sand to make the cement, woven the baskets in which the fruit was stored…following the trail...on to the person who bought the fruit, then prepared it and let’s not forget the knife and how that was produced to make the slicing of the fruit possible, so that it could finally be put into the bowl…ah yes, of course there’s the potter who made the bowl and all the steps taken so that it could be placed on the table. Whoops…and here we go back to the environment, the trees, the loggers, the rivers, the boats, the boat crew, the carpenter, the furniture shop and finally the bowl full of fruit ready for me to eat breakfast…with a spoon. Now who and what contributed to making the spoon and the chair I was sitting on? You get the idea by now, I am sure. This took all of five minutes, maximum, by the way, so don’t even think about putting this in the ‘too hard basket’, as my Australian friend would say. You may of course wonder what this achieves, aside from a slower start to breakfast. Well, do it yourself right now as you read this, for you can apply the practise to anything, and you’ll have your own experiential clarity. You may just surprise yourself as you begin to remember who you are and who everyone else is in relation to you and each other as well as, in relation to the planet and what we are really doing here. Appreciating just how interdependent our relationships are changes the way we approach everything. Staying aware of this and acting accordingly is part of our privilege and challenge during this incarnation. As more people rise to this and move through their lives in a greater state of appreciation, the more fun and easy life will be for everyone…and the quicker action will be taken so the planet can redress the balance environmentally.
Continued from page 60.
Sania`s House Jl. Karna 7, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975535. Swasti Cottage Banjar Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-974079 www.baliswasti.com
www.armaresort.com Set on a vast sumptuous property, part of the Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) and ideally situated to get around Ubud whilst still being part of nature.
Taman Indrakila Hotel Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975017.
Anini Raka Resort Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975213. www.aniniraka.com
Tirta Harum Jl. Jero Gadung 66A, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973381
Anhera Suite Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 168, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977845. www.anherahotelbali.com
Bagus Jati Br. Jati, Desa Sebatu, Kecamatan Tegallalang, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978885/901888. www.bagusjati.com This out of the way resort is ideal for those times when you need to retreat and cleanse. Fabulous spa facilities.
Agung Raka Bungalow Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975757. www.agungraka.com Alila Ubud Desa Melinggh Kelod, Payangan. Tel: 0361-975963. www.alilahotels.com One of Ubud’s favoured hotels, this 56-room resort perches on one side of the Ayung River valley. Four Pool Villas and four Valley Villas offer superb one-up-manship for privacy and luxury. A megalith garden, a designer spa and a fabulous restaurant complete this oneof-a-kind resort. Alila Ubud is also one of the top wedding venues of Ubud. Amandari Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975333. www.amanresorts.com Legendary luxury Ubud retreat. Ananda Cottages Campuhan Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975376. www.anandaubud.com ARMA Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975742/976659.
Ubud Hotel - Taman Harum Cottages Tel: 0361-975567. www.bali-hotel-taman-harum. com
are situated only a fiveminute walk away from the heart of Ubud and Casa Luna Restaurant. With 30 elegant Balinese–style guest rooms set in lush tropical gardens, Honeymoon Guesthouse has become a favourite with travellers, possibly because it boasts within its grounds the Honeymoon Bakery. Guests can also order delicious meals from the extensive menu of the Casa Luna Restaurant, part of the same organisation under Ubud’s own Janet De Neefe.
combines opulence, health, excellent raw food and a world-class spa topped off with with some of the world’s best butlers. One wants for nothing at Como. Four Seasons Resort Sayan Sayan Ridge, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977577. www.fourseasons.com/sayan/ One of the most famous of Bali’s hotels as almost every year Condé Nast or some other venerable travel magazine nominates it for its fabulosity or service. Furama Villas & Spa Jl. Raya Mambal, Br. Bindu, Mambal, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7463064. www.furamavillasandspa.com Furama’s first resort property, Furama Villas & Spa Ubud is set amidst an expanse of serene rice fields, framed by the majestic Mount Batur. Gaya Fusion Villa Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-979252/979253. www.gayafusion.com
Beji Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971166. www.bejiubudresort.com
Champlung Sari Hotel Monkey Forest Road, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975418/975349. www.champlungsariubud.com A veritable instituion with many returnees, located right opposite Ubud’s Monkey Forest.
Barong Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971759. www.barongresortspa.com
Cendana Resort and Spa Monkey Forest Road, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973243. www.cendanaresort-spa.com.
Kajane Mua Villa Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972877 www.kajane.com
Bumi Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Lodtunduh No.88, Br. Silungan Lodtunduh, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974124. www.bumiubudresort.com.
COMO Shambhala Estate Br. Begawan Giri, Payongan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz An Estate like no other. This is where the A-list, red carpet regulars and the rest of the jet–set come for a change of scenery. Set on acres and acres of ravine and river exuberance, this retreat
Kamandalu Resort & Spa Jl. Tegallalang, Br. Nagi, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975825. www.kamandaluresort.com
Casa Luna Honeymoon Guesthouse Jl. Bisma, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973282. www.casalunabali.com. The Honeymoon Guesthouses
Garden View Cottages Monkey Forest Road, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974055. www.baligardenview.com
Kayu Manis Ubud Br. Baung, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972777. www.kayumanis.com The first of the Kayu Manis brand, the one-bedroom villas are excellent and the new spa
the list is something to write home about. Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L3 Located in Bisma street and close to the very centre of Ubud, the Komaneka at Bisma is a sophisticated and contemporary lifestyle resort, beautifully designed and nestled along the Campuhan river valley, with amazing views of the river, sloping rice ﬁelds and coconut groves. Choose a Bisma Suite Room or a One or Two Bedroom Pool Villa. Overall this resort melds beautifully with a truly stunning site; staff are well-trained and extremely friendly and considered part of the well-respected and established family that owns and operates the property. Apple TV in each suite room is an innovative touch to this culturally-sensitive and artistically inspired hotel. Komaneka at Monkey Forest Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud, Gianyar. Tel: 0361-976090. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: P7 The first of three Komaneka’s that have paved the way for travellers of all ages to enjoy Ubud. Located in the very central Monkey Forest road, this small hotel has the option of fabulous rice field views or tropical garden views. A contemporary art gallery makes it young, hip and chic – Ubud style. So popular it is usually fully booked. Komaneka at Tanggayuda Br. Tanggayuda, Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978123. www.komaneka.com
Think romance, think honeymoon, even if you have been married a few years. Komaneka Tanggayuda ignites passion and initmacy in this hillside resort, just a short drive north of Ubud. Balconies, soft beds and huge bathtubs set the scene for one of rest, relaxation and pure indulgence.
pool villa. Choose from a couple of pools and enjoy the food at Ma Joly, Kupu-Kupu’s signature French restaurant. A classic and well-established Kedewatan resort. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977 888. www.mayaubud.com
Kori Ubud Jl. Raya Sanggingan 18,
winning spa (not to mention the excellent food - see Restaurants). Natura Villa Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Gunung Sari, Br. Laplapan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978666. www.naturaresortbali.com Novus Taman Bebek Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975385. www.novustamanbebebk.com Oka Kartini Bungalows Jl. Raya, Ubud, Bali. Tel: 0361-975193. www.okakartini.com Ibu Oka Kartini has been welcoming travellers to Ubud for a number of years now and largely because of her they keep coming back! Padi Prada Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978972. www.padiprada.balidwipa.com Pertiwi Resort and Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975236. www.pertiwiresort.com
Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972487. www.koriubud.com Kupu Kupu Barong Ubud Villa & Spa Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A1 This is a charming and verdant resort that spills down the hillside along the Ayung River Valley in Sayan, offering spectacular views of the Ubud countryside as well as friendly service and a buggy ride back and forth from your luxury
Map Ref: K18 Maya Ubud Resort & Spa is set in 10 hectares of hillside garden, stretching 780 metres along a peninsula high above two river valleys. It flows from hilltop down to riverside hideaway, 30 metres below. Just minutes by foot from Ubud, Maya Ubud Resort & Spa provides a spacious, stylish and luxurious environment in which to enjoy some of life’s better moments. Setting it apart are the luxurious Pool Villas, the landscaped botanical walk that skirts this vast property and an award-
Puri Bunga Village Hotel Jl. Raya Kedewatan PO Box 141, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975488. www.puribungahotel.com Puri Saron Villa & Spa Desa Madangan, Petak, Ubud. Tel: 0361-270123. www.purisaronhotel.com Rumah Rio Jl. Suweta No.24, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978773. www.rumahrio.com Private villas for rent in the heart of Ubud. Royal Pita Maha Desa Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-980022.
turiscondition Something happens to a place when it gets tourism. Say you know of a terrific swimming hole in the forest, with a waterfall and sparkly cold water so clear that you can see the pebbles on the bottom far below. There are lots of big rocks for sunning yourself, and it’s deserted. To get there you have to know where to find the path off the rice fields into the jungle. Then make your way through the gloomy woods. The path disappears sometimes. You have climb over slippery fallen tree trunks, duck giant ferns, and watch out for snakes. If you’re a Balinese kid and this is the 1970s, your knowledge of this place is treasure. It all begins when a friendly foreign visitor asks you to take him someplace where he can swim naked. He’s so delighted with the place that he gives you a big tip and tells you not to tell any other foreigners about it. Of course you tell your friends, and they bring their own foreigners, who also give them big tips. You and your friends troll the market for foreigners, and you divide the take with the guy who has a motorcycle to bring them to the edge of the rice fields where the path begins. Then someone puts up a sign saying ‘waterpol’, and kids from another neighbourhood hang around the sign and offer to guide anyone who shows up. This leads to some fistfights in the schoolyard, so eventually the village leadership decides to step in. They form a group (sekehe waterpol) to share the labour and earnings. Women set up little tables by the sign with snacks and sarongs and soon it’s a nice little business. But before long, someone in a neighbouring village remembers that there’s a holy spring near this waterfall and that his grand– father used to be the priest for the spring temple. The temple has fallen into disrepair, and he’s had a dream that he must rebuild it. He and his fellow villagers figure that the sekehe waterpol should pay for the restoration and contribute to the upkeep of the temple, since they’re obviously doing so well. They take their case to the local prince, who offers to pay the expense of restoring the temple and assume leadership of the sekehe waterpol. Naturally everyone
And we call it progress. By Diana Darling.
agrees. A track is cleared through the forest for ease of carrying in building materials, and in time a pretty little temple stands at the edge of the swimming hole. Meanwhile, someone mentions the waterfall in a guide book: “Spring temple and waterfall, Mameling Village. Difficult access, but well worth the effort.” Soon the Mameling Holy Spring and Waterfall is a regular stop on the itinerary of stylish tour guides with sedan cars. The sekehe waterpol decides to put up a ticket kiosk and ask tourists to rent a temple sash when they visit. You and your friends are asked to keep your underpants on when you go swimming. One day someone from the Department of Culture and Tourism comes around with the prince and announces that your waterfall has become an official obyek wisata (tourist object). It is now to have a sign saying so, along with a vast parking lot to accommodate tour buses and an information centre with toilets. The path to the waterfall will be improved with a concrete walkway, with stairs and stainless steel railings, and all along the path will be cinderblock stalls for vendors of souvenirs and handicrafts. You and your friends are asked to just stay away unless you’re wearing full temple attire. And now that you’re grown up and married with three children in school and are starting to get a little overweight, you never even think of going swimming naked with your friends anymore. In fact, you haven’t been to the waterfall for years, although your wife makes offerings at the spring temple. But one day at the fitness centre, one of your childhood friends (who is now a bank manager) says that there’s an interesting real estate deal afoot. A big investor has made an offer to the prince for the waterfall and ten hectares of what’s left of the forest. “Why?” you ask. “What else can they do to it?” “Ecotourism resort with retirement villas and a mineral-water bottling plant. I can get you in.” “What are you talking about, I am in. That place belongs to the sekehe waterpol, doesn’t it?” “It’s complicated.”
the list OFFERINGS: Bali’s offerings take on myriad forms, part of the ritualistic art of the island. Simple offerings are presented daily to the gods – they may range from a tiny piece of banana leaf holding a few grains of rice to elaborate palm-leaf trays containing flowers and betel nut, a token of hospitality for the spirits. In 1937, Miguel Covarrubias. whose book Island of Bali is regarded by many as the definitive text on matters Balinese, wrote that offerings “are given in the same spirit as presents to the prince or friends, a sort of modest bribe to strengthen a request; but it is a condition that they should be beautiful and well made to please the gods and should be placed on well decorated high altars”. The size of the offering may also be scaled up or down depending on the occasion or nature of the “request”. Pula gembal, consisting of dozens of different rice dough figurines, may range in size from a single basket to a spectacular construction several meters high. Women and girls nearly always carry towering cones of rice cakes, fruit and sweet breads to the temple, where the gods are said to consume their essence, leaving the food intact to be returned home later. No part of the offering may be used again, meaning the banten must be reproduced for every single festival.
www.royalpitamaha-bali.com Fit for a Prince and built by a Prince. Royal Pita Maha encompasses regal Balinese architecture on a stunning valley and river–view property. Rijasa Agung Resort & Villa Br. Begawan, Desa Melinggih, Kelud Payangan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-980333. www.rijasa.com
Tel: 0361-973318. www.tegalsari-ubud.com The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975685 www.ghmluxuryhotels.com Map Ref: X18 This luxury 20-villa resort, set on an
Sahadewa Resort & Spa Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971590. www.sahadewaresort.com SayanTerrace Resort Jl. Raya Sayan Ubud. Tel: 0361-974384. www.sayanterraceresort.com
Tanah Merah Resort Melayang, Pejeng, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978554/978552. www.tanahmerahresort.com
estate dedicayed to elephants and surrounded on all sides by paddy fields is located near teh Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave, and a favourite among ‘those in the know’. If you didn’t know to stay here then make a point of going to The Restaurant, that seemingly floats on a sea of rice fields, wander to The Spa for a relaxning massage alternatively sit by the 35m pool and sip on afternoon tea or the signatuer Purple Basil Mojito. The statuesque amphitheatre usually hosts kecak dances on Tuesdays.
Tegal Sari Hotel Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal, Ubud.
The Elephant Safari Park Lodge Jl. Elephant Park, Taro. Tel: 0361-721480.
Semana Villa Br. Semana, Desa Singakerta, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7471234. www.villasemana.com Set in a Balinese village just out of Ubud, the outstanding scenery to and from this property complements the luxury of staying in it.
www.elephantsafariparklodge. com A lodge that is not a lodge. Twenty-five luxury accommodations in the centre of an elephant park! Pack your trunk and go to bed with the pachyderms. The Mammoths Head Bar and Lounge, the Safari Wellness Spa and even a fitness room will keep you amused when you are not out on a night safari, fine dining under the stars or even bathing or feeding an elephant. Ideal vacation for the seven to 70s age group. (Part of Bali Adventure Tours - see Adventure) The Linda Garland Estate Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974028. www.lindagarland.com The Mansion Hotel & Spa Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972616. Map Ref: K1 www.themansionbali.com ‘Grand’ is the word that comes to mind when walking through the doors of the aptly named The Mansion Hotel & Spa. Asian opulence at its best with a sweeping staircase that leads to an eclectic gallery that houses paintings, rare textiles and royal regalia. The Suites and Residences host large four poster beds, swathed silk curtains and generous bathrooms. Indochine, the
restaurant, is exotic and romantic. (See Restaurants) The Ubud Village Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978444. www.theubudvillage.com The Viceroy Bali Jl. Lanyahan, Br Nagi, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971777. www.viceroybali.com An relative newcomer to the Ubud hotel and resort scene, The Viceroy Bali is now one of the top resorts in the area. Tjampuhan Hotel & Spa Jl. Raya Tjampuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975368. www.hoteltjampuhan.com Ubud Hanging Gardens Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com. Located in the steep rice terraces of Payangan, this unique resort has 38 luxury private pool villas, each with heated private infinity plunge pools and spectacular views of an ancient temple, tropical mountains and the winding Ayung river. The resort itself is not so much perched on the hilltop as merged with it, and a small mechanical carriage (funicular) carries guests up and down the hillside in style. Ubud Sari Health Resort
the list Jl. Kajeng No 35, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974393. www.ubudsari.com A resort offering health and detoxification treatments. Ulun Ubud Resort Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975024. www.ulunubud.com
Tel: 0361-974466. www.warwickibah.com A small but revered boutique hotel with Balinese architecture fountains and tropical gardens. One of the more genteel places to stay. The view from the balcony terraces and bathrooms is totally memorable.
Tel: 0361-975719. www.wakanamya.com Balinese antiques marry modern convenience. Romantic rice barn rooms or family villas with pools. The choice is yours and the charming Waka Namya staff will ensure that you are well taken care of.
Uma Ubud Bali Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B4 Tropical French contemporary is a style with which Uma has become known, in other words elegant simplicity. One of Ubud’s top yet more exclusive resorts boasts an excellent bar, a fabulous pool, a Zeninspired spa, yoga pavilion and a restaurant (Kemiri) that has won accolades and a local expat following. Less espensive than sister resort COMO Shambhala, the care for health, excellent service and all the trappings are of equal standing.
Gemala Jewelry Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 976084 . www.gemalabalisilver.com JFF Jewelry Jl. Suweta No. 6, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972078. www.jf-f.com Map Ref: I8 Jean Francois Fichot, jeweller extraordinaire who exhibits world-wide, has long attracted the A list to his style of design and art. He blends, moulds and crafts everyday things found in nature into intricate pieces of art. JFF’s gold earrings, rings and necklaces create not only conversations but jealousies to. These are must-have unique pieces coming from a unique inspiration!
Villa Indah Ubud Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975450. www.villaindahubud.com Villa Kánti Br. Apuh, Mawang Kelod, Lodtunduh, Ubud. Tel: 0361-8614400. www.villakanti.com Villa Kerti Yasa Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971377. www.vilakertiyasa.com
complete, get-away-from-it-all holiday. Stables provide horses for a ride along the beach, which overlooks Bali's famous Tanah Lot temple.
Villa Sonia Jl. Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971307. www.villasonia.nl
Waka Di Ume Jl. Suweta, Ubud. Tel: 0361-973178. www.wakadiume.com Simple Balinese elegance from the Waka boutique hotel group. Set in rice paddy just north of Ubud, it ranks as one of the areas nicest places to stay.
Warwick Ibah Villa & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud.
Waka Namya Resort & Spa Jl. Raya Penestanan, Ubud.
Waka Gangga Resort & Spa Desa Sudimara. Bj. Yeh Gangga, Tabanan. Tel: 0361-416257. www.wakaganggaresort.com The 10 Lanais and two Gangga Villas of Waka Gangga sit on the gently sloping rice terrraces which fringe a black sand beach. The natural rejuvenating energies of the surf and invigorating sea air make this a sanctum for anyone seeking a
Treasures Jewelry Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-976697. www.decko.com Map Ref: I6 Six accalimed jewellers exhibit at Treasures, Bali’s most unique venue for the the world’s most favoured metal. Gold, and lots of it, alongside precious and semi-precious stones amalgamate to make up truly one-of-a-kind pieces that last many lifetimes. Yan Van Jewelry Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978513 www.yanvan.com
the list Finally jewelry that looks great on men (and excuse me, women too)! Using rubber and silver as his ‘signature take’ on adorning the opposite sex, Yan Van’s unique pieces are masculine yet thankfully not overly biker-ish.
for it is only in his way that the spirit may be released from its body to join the family’s deified ancestors.
If you’re interested in seeing a palace and observing the way life is conducted inside, there are opportunities to do so, but remember that for the most part they are private homes, not public throughways. Many of the Ubud royals have opened hotels and
KAWI A literary language, based on Sanskrit, that evolved in South India and was transmitted to Java; many sacred Balinese lontars are written in Kawi, which is unintelligable to the average person and must be interpreted; the heroes and heroines of the epic poems speak in Kawi. In the lower case, kawi means ‘creative force’, ‘to write or compose prose or poetry’.
performances are held. Located at the northeast corner of the central cross-roads, it’s pretty hard to miss. It was the home of the last “king” of Ubud, and now his descendants live there. It is essentially the “father palace” of the other Ubud palaces, which are more or less its “spinoffs,” built as the family extended. It was also Ubud’s first hotel, opening its doors to paying visitors in the 1930s. Parts of the gardens and some of the bales are quite grand and formal, with generous lashings of prada (gold leaf) applied to the carved woodwork. Puri Saren Kangin is the eastern portion of Puri Saren (kangin means”east”), and is a private residence for several branches of the Ubud royal family. Pura Saren Kauh Kauh means “west,” and accordingly, this is the occidental portion of the palace.
KIDS PERFORMANCES See entries under Adventure and Wildlife – Bali Zoo Park, Bali Safari & Marine Park, Bali Bird Park and Elephant Safari Park Taro.
See last pages of The List for Dance Schedules and Performances. PROPERTY
M MELASPAS (noun): A dedication ceremony in which a house or other building is “brought to life” with offerings, mantras and holy water so that it can be lived in and used.
N NGABEN To cremate a body, low Balinese or Sudra; the noun is properly pengabenan, but the transitive verb is commonly used to mean “cremation”, an important final rite of passage for every Balinese,
ODALAN A temple ceremony marking its anniversary. Lasting anywhere from one day to over a week, temple grounds are decked out in flags, penjors and impressive offerings. Music and prayers go on well into the night.
restaurants within the walls of their homes, so one can, in fact, sleep and eat in one of the Ubud palaces, enjoying accommodations from the most modest bungalow to the modern luxury rooms. In some cases, you have a chance to meet the palace residents and join them for family and community ceremonies. Puri Saren Agung is the central palace where the public dance
Ubud Property Jl. Raya Ubud No.1 (eastern end of main street Ubud, next to the statue). Tel: 0361-970888. www.ubudproperty.com Ubud Property is a leading realtor in the Ubud area. The company is staffed by professionals who will help you to find and secure your ideal property and, let’s face it, who doesn’t want to retire and live in Ubud? The Ubud Property team is multinational and experienced, with the key staff holding degrees in law. The company works in association with the region’s leading Notary Office for optimal
the list NYEPI: What could be a better illustration of Bali’s on-going dedication to religion and ritual than Nyepi, the island’s Day of Silence? The afternoon before this extraordinary annual festival, excited children create vast figures in demonic designs – these ogres with their long talons and fierce teeth will later be lifted onto the shoulders of groups of men and danced around the streets in a mass of noise and colour. The festivities reach a chaotic climax before midnight, when crowds pick up and bang on drums, wooden logs or musical instruments, to be followed in the morning by a deafening silence, a time when the people stay in their houses, lights, and fires are put out and the roads are made empty. This, more than any other ceremony in Bali, shows the island’s true regard for ritual: the island’s visitors, just like anyone else, are forced so stay inside in observance of Nyepi. For 24 hours, Bali stands silent, its beaches, bars, and restaurants closed against daylight in the hope that evil forces will be tricked into leaving its deserted streets.
legal protection, and enjoys a reputation good enough to hold an exceptional portfolio of villas and land in and around Ubud. PHOTOGRAPHY Rio Helmi Gallery Jl. Suweta No. 5, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972304. www.riohelmi.com The Bali Photo Gallery Jl. Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972304. Yaeko Masuda www.yaekomasuda.com
R RESTAURANTS Ary’s Warung Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975053. www.dekco.com Ary’s gourmet European and Indonesian specialties have fans from around the world. Stop in for at least one of the honey-ginger-lime drinks (with or without the booze) and kick back on a couch street side for a bit of people-watching. The metallic, angular construction of this open-air bistro would look great in a big-city gallery district, and stands comfortably beside ancient Hindu temples and the adjacent Royal Palace. It is the place to see and be
seen and Ary’s is quite pleasant at night, when tranquil trance music plays and candles light every corner. Second-floor dining gives you a good view of the busy street below or the bats swooping to catch bugs at dusk. The food is good but not for the budgetminded. Try the gazpacho, perfect on a hot day, or the grilled goat’s cheese salad. The grilled tuna and lamb cutlets are done to perfection, and the ponzu-grilled snapper is delicious. Ary’s also makes for a good meeting place or for reconnoitering when the kids are trekking and Mom is off shopping. B.B.’s Cafe & Deli Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975013. Opposite the main market. BB’s serves salads, sandwiches burgers, noodle dishes and beer... Bebek Bengil Restaurant (Dirty Duck Diner) Jl. Hanoman, Padang Tegal, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 975 489 www.agungraka.com Bebek Bengil or Crispy Duck is what this venue is famous for... as well as its breezy pavilion style seating. Beduur Restaurant Desa Buahan, Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com
Terraced onto the hillside with outstanding panoramic views of the valley and the scenic backdrop of the temple on the opposite side of the gorge, Beduur Restaurant at Ubud Hanging Gardens resort features the delights of both Asian and French cuisine with Balinese ingredients in the serene setting of pure tranquility. Executive Chef Renaud Le Rasle’s menu is innovative and superbly delicious. Bookings preferable.
Bumbu Bali Jl. Suweta No 1, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974217. www.bumbubaliresto.com Bunute Restaurant & Bar Jl.Dewi Sita, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972177. www.bunute.com Recently opened Bunute serves Balinese delights with international twists. Wine and live music make this a new venue to try. Café Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9X, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972706 .
www.cafedesartistesbali.com Map Ref: K4 Think Belgian, think steaks, frites and salads in a romantically-lit pavilion and garden tables. Open for that ‘late breakfast’ of omlette and coffee (10.30am) one can sit straight through savouring sandwiches and salads think pear and blue cheese or Nicoise. The menu offers moules, soups, pates even steak tartare Belgian style. Order the traditional Balinese fare one day in advance, (duck Betutu or the Indonesian Rijstaffel or Rice Table) and we recommend you book a table on high days and holidays so as not to be disappointed! Parking available. Café Lotus Ubud Jl. Raya, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 975660. www.lotus-restaurants.com Overlooking an expansive lotus pond and amphitheatre in the grounds of Puri Saraswati. A must-stop-by-and-see for coffee, lunch or one of the gamelan and dance evenings. Casa Luna Restaurant Jl. Raya, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 977409. www.casalunabali.com Map Ref: J6 With its relaxed tropical atmosphere and superb selection of food, Casa Luna offers a fine selection of Balinese and Mediterranean
the list dishes, great bakeries, todie-for coffees and a healthconscious outlook. Situated on the main road just down from the Ubud market, it is a favourite with visitors from all over the world and has a reputation that extends beyond most café restaurants of its kind. Wednesday nights are Brazilian Jazz nights with music by Murni and Riwin as well as tapas and cocktails. It also offers the Luna Lounge with newspapers, CNN, movies and free Wifi, as well as its famed Honeymoon Bakery, established in 1991, using time-honoured methods and the finest ingredients to satisfy travellers from all corners of the globe. Sunday Brunches are a must.
has tantalising surprises in store, combining grill classics with an imaginative menu of salads, pastas, Asian curries, stir-fries and down-home desserts. Open daily from 8am to midnight. Coffee & Copper Jl. Nyuhbulan, Nyuh Kuning, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978631.
crew, this restaurant and bar is set on a multi-tiered terrace dotted with antiques and interior design accents. International food is served in a jovial and social atmosphere and the bar never lacks for clients. Head upstairs and check out the colonial and Dutch antiques and relics. The top floor is also the favoured space to sit and hear
CasCades Restaurant Jl. Lanyahan, Br. Nagi, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972111. www.cascadesbali.com Map Ref: H15 CasCades at The Viceroy Bali is a superb fine dining experience with an inspiring menu, a good selection of fine wines, and an outstanding view across the valley. Cinta Grill and Inn Jl. Monkey Forest Ubud. Tel: 0361-975395. www.baligoodfood.com Map Ref: 07 Walk along Monkey Forest Road in Ubud and you won’t miss Cinta Grill, Ubud’s garden restaurant and pub. The inviting ambience of a spacious garden entices you in; the food and drinks convince you to return again. Start at the bar for a cocktail, then choose the thatched dining room, the outdoor modern garden back-dropped by an impressive Balinese gate, or chill on the cushions in the private pavilion. The menu
Fly Café Jl. Raya Lungsiakan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975440. email@example.com Ribs, ribs, beer and ribs and a great Trivial Pursuits night. GLOW at COMO Shambhala Bj. Begawan Giri, Payongan. Tel: 0361-978888. www.como.bz It’s rawfully good at GLOW, COMO Shambhala’s signature ‘healthful’ restaurant. Zucchini carpaccios, quinoa, red rice – everything gluten-free if need be – and all totally delicious. Executive and award-winning chef Chris Miller, has handcrafted a menu based on the purity of the new health trend of raw food. It is not only the food that will do you good as GLOW has one of Bali’s best ravine-river views with mature trees that just burst with energy and life, whilst the open, glass-accented kitchen lets you watch the specialists prepare your ultra-fresh ingredients. Located on a private estate bookings for GLOW are essential! Ibu Rai Bar & Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 973472. www.iburai.com
www.coffeecopper.com A spacey, airy restaurant right next to the back entrance of Monkey Forest. Serving a range of healthy breakfasts, light brunches and romantic dinners. Luxurious suites available for reasonable prices. Coffee & Silver Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Tel: 0361-975354. www.coffeesilver.com Map Ref: R6 A favourite among the Euro-
live music on Tuesdays and Sundays from 7pm - 10pm. Open daily from 10am to 10pm. Deli Cat Shop & Café Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud, Tel: 0361-971284. firstname.lastname@example.org. Like a little tropical bodega, shared trestle-table seating with Scandinavian, north Eurpoean food and a dash of more besides. Carafe wines and cold Bintangs.
Indochine Restaurant Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud. Telp: 0361-972616. www.themansionbali.com Map Ref: K1 Indochine offers an elegant and intimate atomosphere within the ultra-Asian opulence of The Mansion Hotel & Spa. Serving Vietnamese and French cuisine with a modern twist on light and spicy flavours from Vietnam, Indochine proves once again that it is possible to have world class fine dining in the heart of a rural paradise. The wine list is well chosen
the list and matched exquisitely to the cuisine – often a sticking point in other restaurants claiming to be top class. Indus Restaurant Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977684. www.casalunabali.com/indus Map Ref: C4 Indus Restaurant, a five-minute drive from the centre of Ubud, overlooks the Campuhan River and enjoys breathtaking views of the surrounding hills. On a clear day, you can see mighty Gunung Agung, in the east, and on a full-moon, there is a spectacular view from the terrace. The restaurant runs a free shuttle service between Indus, Casa Luna and the Honeymoon Guesthouses. With its mouthwatering menu, eclectic gallery and breathtaking views of the Campuhan River, it’s easy to see why Indus has been an Ubud favourite for nearly 10 years. Salsa nights on Mondays. Juice Ja Café Jl. Dewi Sita Ubud. Tel: 0361-971056. Fresh, pure and healthy. The perfect place to get your shot of wheatgrass and watch the street go by beneath you. Kafe Jl. Hanoman no. 44B, Padang Tegal, Ubud. Telp: 0361-7803802. www.balispirit.com/kafe/ The destination for the yoga crew and anyone looking to feel at home when so far away. It is also the hangout for the regular expat community, overseas course-takers and overnight Ubudites. The menu is organic and healthy, varied and reasonable. And, if you just want to read your book and have a decent coffee, you can
do that too! Open daily from 8am to 11pm. Kafe Batan Waru Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977528. www.baligoodfood.com Everyone knows Batan Waru. Conveniently located in the heart of Ubud, (and now directly across the street from the Waterbom Park in Kuta) any time of the week, Kafe Batan Waru has something for you. Rated Bali’s “Best Indonesian restaurant”, this perpetually popular café serves up an imaginative menu of Indonesian and
Balinese favourites in a charming setting. Known foremost for offering Bali’s most interesting and delicious selection of Indonesian food, Batan Waru also caters to other tastes. Rice, pasta and bread lovers will find lots to eat for lunch and dinner. Open daily from 8am to midnight. Kagemusha Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel 0361-973134. A secret success story, Kagemusha is a friendly Japanese restaurant serving home-cooked cuisine in a serene atmosphere with a good view. Kemiri at Uma Jl. Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972448. www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref:
Chef Miller and his team have created an Indonesian menu with flavours fit for a king. Sit beside a waterfall that spills into a Koi pond in the midst of tropicalia and savour Southeast Asian cooking as well as traditional Balinese cuisine. The healthy COMO Shambhala menu is also available. Open breakfast, lunch and dinner with à la carte or set menus. Full moon dinners come highly recommneded as does Uma Teatime.
Kokokan Club Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud. Telp: 0361976659 www. kokokan.
com Two-storey Thai eatery on Jl. Pengosekan, part of ARMA Resort. Kudus at COMO Bj. Begawan Giri, Payongan Ubud. Tel: 0361-978888. An exquisite 150-year-old prince’s abode seemingly hangs over the Ayung River Valley and sets the scene for eating some of the palatial delicacies that Indonesian royal families from past eras enjoyed. Open for dinner only. Bookings essential. Kué Bakery Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-975249. Our answer to glucose withdrawals, Kue just takes the biscuit and bakes the cake. It has also recently opened
upstairs as a fabulous little cafe eatery...Open daily 8am–8pm. Laka - Leke Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning. Tel: 0361-977565. Related to the excellent Cafe Wayan on Monkey Forest Rd., at Laka Leke sit amongst lily ponds in pavilions and listen to the sound of frogs, and the food is as good as at Cafe Wayan. Lamak Restaurant & Bar Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974668. www.lamakbali.com Stylishly modern traditional dining featuring steel interior designed by renowned sculptor Pintor Sirait. Little K Jl. Pengosekan - Padang, Tegal Ubud (Bali Spirit Yoga Barn’s Garden). Tel: 0361-970992. www.balispirit.com Map Ref: Awesome fresh breakfasts and lunches. Sit in the garden and umbrellas provided. Open from Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 4pm with WiFi also! Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970928. Spanish tapas meet tapas from the East at this new funky noodle, rice and cocktail bar. Live music on Monday eves. Maya Sari Mas Jl. Gunung Sari Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977888. Map Ref: K17 Maya Ubud's signature restaurant brings the best of local and imported ingredients to the table. International in flavour, each dish has been carefully crafted to inspire and please the international clientelle. Right next door is
runaways Ubud – it’s the navel of the navel of a universe that is apparently carried around by a turtle. I’M stuck in the position of the wallowing giraffe – a fairly advanced yoga pose. Hence I am typing this one-handed, behind my back (I think) with a mirror. Lunch with my partner is probably off unless I can remember the order in which I twisted myself into this shape – it hurts like hell, by the way. Penestanan has a strange allure. On the face of it, wittingly or not, suborned by The Law of Diminishing Rice Fields – on another plane a new crop thrives in place of Dewi Sri’s favourite food… yoga practitioners; lots of them. It’s most likely the yoga Mecca of Indonesia, if there can be such a thing. Can you say oooooommmmm? Go on try it, oooooommmm. See how good it feels? The serenity is tangible in Penestanan. One can taste it, feel it – it blows in through the A/C in the car when one is driving past. Makes you want to get out for a stretch; get your gear off; get the mat out; never mind the fact you’ve created Beelzebub's traffic jam. Salute the sun, the moon, but avoid the wallowing giraffe unless you really know what you’re doing. A relatively new phenomenon is seeing nice new cars parked in Ubud High Street with www. someyogioranother.com stickers all over them. Are we headed down Osho Boulevard here? The Bagwan used to love his cars. His followers, in general (apart from a particularly awful assistant named Sheila), were a harmless lot with limited fashion sense. So if a new uniform emerges in Penestanan, please let it be any other colour than orange. The lovely Anne – easily the most flexible person on the planet, and long-time Ubudite – taught my mate Dick yoga here. He’s gone on to create Yoga 4 Blokes; based on the premise that blokes can do blokey stuff for a lot longer if they stretch some and breathe a bit. Dick’s a bloke with his chakras in the right places. So get on up to The Yoga Barn (to name but one place of many) if you are so inclined, suggest a renaming, and hop into it. You’ll feel much better about getting blitzed on caipiroscas after a good workout.
Snooker is a form of yoga but it involves the use of a wider variety of expletives. One can now play snooker in Ubud because “I’m-mad-for-the-games” Greg has a table in his relatively new establishment. It’s perfect for the practitioner with Tourette’s Syndrome – the twitches and verbal anomalies go virtually unnoticed. Like yoga, one must bend over a bit, breathe like a sniper, and hit little balls into little pockets with a big stick – the last being derived from the practice of an ancient but little-known yogic sect that hailed from the lower reaches of the Nile Delta: the Snookerites. Correct me if I’m wrong but I believe Aristotle did a retreat with the Snookerites and came up with the rules we still must swallow in the modern game. Then there’s our Victor (Mason, for the uninitiated) – who changed his name (during a cosmic catharsis) from his old moniker, Tealeaf Moonbeam Snod. Still, he’s a grand master of what might be the penultimate yogic form (the ultimate being snooker, obviously) – bird watching. Hells bells you have to stand very, very, still and control your breathing like anything; otherwise the binoculars jiggle about all over the place and you’ll completely miss the Javanese kingfisher. They’re very fast. And, finally free from the wallowing giraffe – which took the assistance of three neighbouring pembantu and a can of WD40 – I can write the end of this two-handed (as soon as the other one wakes up). The Bud, ah Ubud, om the Bud; it’s the navel of the navel of a universe that is apparently carried around by a turtle. For those of us blessed enough to bathe in its bliss there are a plethora of ways to achieve inner peace and enlightenment. It’s all in the breathing, you see. Breathe deeply, evenly; visualize the cares of our wonky world wafting away. Relax. Because there’s bugger all else you can do while sitting in the gridlock on Ubud High Street created by the mancking twonks who think it’s their gods-given right to double park in front of Ary’s, Ubud Music and Casa Luna.
the list Maya Sari Asiatique, complete with a Teppanyaki counter and a myriad of Asian cuisines from Indonesian to Indian. Minami Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-970013. Map Ref: B4 Minami is an extremely highquality Japanese restaurant with food tastes that are subtle and delicate. The large, double-ceilinged, three-sided dining room opens onto a garden courtyard, with only eight well-spaced tables inside and a couple more in the garden. Pure classic white and garden green predominate. The food is exquisite Japanese fare, beautifully prepared with delicious variety. Minami serves a range of dishes not found in other Japanese restaurants and also specialises in cuisine from Osaka. This well-regarded restaurant offers something very different with Japanese cuisine normally served only in Japan. Mozaic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975768. www.mozaic-bali.com Map Ref: B4 Enter Mozaic’s Balinese doorway and you are guaranteed an evening of repose and pure enjoyment. A walkway leads you to a tropical garden with its widely spaced tables and simple elegance, where, once seated, you are immediately charmed by the unique setting. The chef’s degustation or tasting menu offers you the occasion to savour what is truly a parade of ever-changing culinary creations. Mozaic Restaurant and Chef Salans have been honoured around the world for the excellence of their cuisine and the beauty
of the setting…Mozaic is the only restaurant in Southeast Asia selected by Traditions & Qualité as one of Les Grandes Tables du Monde and to have its wine list picked year after year by Wine Spectator. Top class. Reservations recommended. Murni’s Warung Campuhan, Ubud. Tel: 0361- 975233. www.murnis.com Shaded and riverside, Murni’s has been welcoming guests to lovely food and her eclectic antique and handicaft shop for years.
Nuri’s (named after Brian’s charming wife Nuri) is also something of a legend with Japanese and Chinese tourists, not to mention hordes from Jakarta who trek here on a regular basis, making sure this is one of the busiest and most popular restaurants in Bali, let alone Ubud. In fact sometimes it’s impossible to get a seat. So go early and enjoy the food, ambience and ribaldry of what has become a legendary roadside establishment. Nomad Restaurant 35 Ubud Main Street Tel: 0361-977169 Fax: 975115 Map Ref: K10
Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977547. Just as it sounds...a part of Tijuana in Ubud with the added value of Nuri’s ribs if Nuri’s is crowded! Plantation Dining Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963 Map Ref: A2 Think regal coconut columns and a 180 degree view of valley, river and tropical forest. Plantation Dining is Alila Ubud's dining venue specialising in Plantation Cuisine. Bold yet simple, fresh and organic, the menu offers both local, Asian and international dishes using the finest ingredients carefully crafted under the watchful eye of the Executive Chef Shahram Decontades. Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan. Tel: 0361-978520. Italian - eat in, take away or even get delivery!
Naughty Nuri’s Warung Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977547. Best ribs, best sashimi tuna (Thursdays only), best grills, best mash – all topped off with draught beer or a superb Martini. Some claim the latter are among the tastiest in the world, and we would have to agree (hic). Genial owner Brian is usualy on hand in a corner seat somewhere, ready to welcome you into a world of enjoyment that may start over a quiet beer and extend late into the night. Seating here is a free-for-all...just sit down and take your chances. Naugthy
Opened back in 1979 and an institution among travellers to Ubud for three decades, Nomad Restaurant is a popular gathering place for people of all nationalities, there to sample the local, Asian fusion and Western food from an eclectic menu that boasts a few special treats – Nomadstyle Martabak, Fresh Prawn Lakso and a selection of Balinese tapas. Open from 9am every day, Nomad Restaurant uses no MSG or other food additives, and the staff is delightful. Nuri’s Nacho Mamas
Rendezvous Doux Jl. Raya Ubud. Tel: 0361-7470163 rendezvoughdouxbali@yaho. frsia.com International airconditioned library and cafe with all-day screenings. Ryoshi Jl. Raya, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972192. Dependable Japanese food on two levels and tatami seating. Siam Sally, Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-980777. www.baligoodfood.com/siamsally Map Ref: V9 After years of exploring the food of Thailand, and intensive
cooking with Thai home chefs, the owners of Siam Sally have finally introduced excellent Thai cuisine to Ubud. Popular among tourists and locals alike, Siam Sally delivers fresh, homestyle Thai food in a spectacular setting. You can start your journey on the comfy sofas downstairs with an innovative cocktails menu and some shared food. Co-owner/chef Karen Waddell starts you off with Roasted green chili “salsa” with rice cracker, Siam Palace Lom dip, or the hawker stall favorite, Hoy Tod, a crisp mussel fritter served with a housemade fiery Sriracha chili sauce. Curries are cooked up with houseground spice pastes and fresh coconut milk, and the market style noodle dishes are
fabulous, ditto the wok-seared creations and Fried Chicken and Som Tam papaya salad, a recipe inspired by a favourite food stall in Bangkok’s Jatujak market. Non Thai food and Vegan also available. Open 7 days a week. Terazo Jl. Suweta, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978941. www.baligoodfood.com London’s Financial Times described Terazo as having food at a “price and quality that would embarrass your average London restaurateur”. And it’s true, Terazo delivers ultra-fresh pan-Asian and international cuisine in stylish surroundings. Located in Ubud on quiet Suweta Street, just a stone’s throw from the centre
of town, Terazo restaurant and bar is designed in a colonial modern style by international design firm Hananto Lloyd. It features banquette dining, a stylish lounge and mahogany bar downstairs. Casual glam awaits you in the dining room upstairs. Open daily from 10am to midnight, Terazo offers exquisite food and wine from across the globe. Three Monkeys Café Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975554. Excellent starters and the desserts are mouthwatering. The Green House Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978189. Pan-Asian cuisine in a modern luxury glasshouse setting,
to be followed by a chill–out session with cocktails at the bar or upstairs in the Party Lounge. Warung Buddha Bar & Grill Jl. Goutama, Ubud. Tel: 8686705 or 081337971174. Open for lunch and dinner with live big-match broadcasts from ESPN, Star Sports, Euro Sports and others. Warung Enak Jl. Raya Pangosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972911. www.warungenakbali.com Excellent Balinese and local fare with some highly amusing, if a tad risque, decor! West End Café Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-978363.
the list Map Ref: A4 Newly opened in Ubud’s flourishing west end (Mozaic, Nuri’s, Minami et al) is the West End Café. The cool and colourful décor is a welcoming respite to guests in need of food, refreshment and a place to relax. On the menu are “sandwiches with substance” such as The Italian Sub, Grilled Cajun chicken, and succulent roasted beef tenderloin. For those in search of lighter options, the fresh salads will not disappoint: traditional offerings, such as the West End Chef and The Cobb, along with Asian inspired Grilled Chicken & Glass Noodle salad or Coconut Chicken served in baby romaine lettuce cups. Open Monday – Saturday; 11am – 6pm.
Bali: Temple Festival, Jane Belo, JJ Augustin, New York, 1953. Balinese Character. A Photographic Analysis, Bateson, G and M Mead, New York Academy of Sciences, 1942. Butterflies of Bali, Victor Mason, 2005. Island of Bali, Miguel Covarrubias, Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1937. Tale of Bali, Vicki Baum, The Literary Guild of America, New York, 1938. The Balinese, Hugh Mabbett, January Books, Singapore, 1985. The Last Paradise, Hickman Powell, Jonathan Cape, London, 1930. The Painted Alphabet, Diana
luxurious pavilions dedicated to relaxation and well-being. Each pavilion comprises two large spaces; one with two massage beds and a Balinese sofa, the other with a dressing area and bathroom with a bath that is surrounded by water and looks out onto the river. Ayung Spa at Maya Ubud has won countless international accolades and Best Spa at The Yak Awards 2008... goes without saying – it is fabulous! Eve Body Treatment Centre Eve 1: Jl. Penestanan Kelod, Ubud. Tel: 0361-979356. Eve 2 & 3: Jl. Monkey Forest,
S SELECTED FURTHER READING If you’re a fan of Ubud, just interested in Balinese culture or have overlooked your reading list of late, we recommend the following literary staples to fill in the blanks. A House in Bali, Colin McPhee, Victor Gollancz, London, 1947. Bali 1912: Photographs and Reports, Gregor Kaus. Folkwang Verlag, Germany, 1920. Bali Behind The Mask, Ana Daniel, Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1981. Bali Profile. People, Events, Circumstances (1001-1976), Wilhard Hanna, American Universities Field Staff, 1976. Bali: Sekala and Niskala, Fred Eiseman, Periplus Editions, Singapore, 1985. Bali: A Paradise Created, Adrian Vickers, Penguin Books, Australia, 1989.
Darling, Houghton Mifflin, Boston, 1992. Travelling to Bali, Adrian Vickers, Oxford Univertsity Press, Kuala Lumpur, 1994. Walter Spies and Balinese Art, Hans Rhodius and John Darling, edited by John Stowell, Terra, Zutphen, 1980. SPAS Ayung Spa at Ubud Hanging Gardens Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com In pure Balinese style, the resort’s Ayung Spa offers three
Ubud. Tel: 03617470910 & 973236. The Day Spa Specialists.Eve – Body Treatment Centre offers professional service at affordable prices. Heaven and Earth Rejuvention Spa Jl. Penestanan, Sayan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-972616. www.themansionbali.com Offers a range of treatments from the East to the West involving a variety of massage techniques in a natural Balinese setting. Choose from a selection of essential oils designed to encourage relaxation, rejuvenation and total refreshment. Detox
and purify your body while combining good nutrition within this health retreat. Spa Alila Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Tel: 0361-975963 Map Ref: Spa addicts unite. The Spa Alila has created a total concept for die-hard Alilaites. Using their own blended products and those of Decleor, the Alila therapists wrap you in seaweed, masage you with warm stones, relax you with frankincense resin, even tend to your Third Eye with Shirodara. When having an Alila treatment think fresh ingredients that smell sublime... Spa Villas at Komaneka at Bisma Jl. Bisma, Ubud. Tel: 0361-971933. www.komaneka.com Map Ref: L4 The resort’s Spa Villa concept boasts four single treatment villas and two double spa villas overlooking the Campuhan river. Treatments include traditional Indonesian beauty and massage therapies. Mango Tree Spa at Kupu Kupu Barong Ubud Villa & Spa Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975478. www.kupubarongubud.com Map Ref: A3 Indulge in the Mango Tree Spa – which actually sits, well, in a mango tree – and offers L’Occitane signature treatments combining indigenous therapies with exclusive European products. Maya Ubud Resort & Spa Jl. Gunung Sarim Peliatan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977888.
the list www.mayaubud.com Map Ref: K18 Below the hotel nestles the riverside Spa at Maya...a haven of sensual bliss with double treatment pavillions and a spa treatment list that includes a gentle four–hand massage, relaxing Balinese massage, natural facials and body scrubs and treatments tailor-made for men. Skin Organic Jl. Gootama 24, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975615. www.skinorganic.info Map Ref: M.9 Petite spa on Gootama, Ubud’s up–and–coming chic street. Organic nailpolish, fresh blended oils, facials using oxygen products, jamu drinks, scrubs, aloe vera extracts, top quality...waxing Rp.150,000... Skin gives signature cards for local expats! Taman Rahasia Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-979395. www.balisecretgarden.com Affordable treatments in the gardens of The Secret Garden. Birds sing, flowers scent the air and the masssages just flow... Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng 35, Ubud. Tel: 0361-974393 www.ubudsari.com Look out over Mumbul river and treat yourself to a number of beauty and semi-medical treatments, colonics, fasting programmes and retreats. CranioSacral Therapy, Reiki and Deep Tissue Body Work rejuvenates the mind and revitalizes the body. A number of one, three day raw health programmes up to a two week total revitalization retreat completes the detoxifying
package whilst the Salon De'elegance keeps the face and body glowing like royalty. Kirana Spa Desa Kedewatan, Ubud. Telp: 0361-976333. www.kiranaspa.com Shiseido products
TEXTILES Macan Tidur Puri Muwa, Monkey Forest Road 10,
VEDAS Four holy books of the Aryans, dating from about 1,000BC; the Aryans were not Hindu, but they laid some of the most important foundations of Hinduism; the Vedas are considered sacred by Balinese Hindus; the Rig Veda is the best known of the four and is probably the oldest religious text in the world.
from Japan meet one of the best views of Ubud’s Kedewatan valley views. Located on the property of the Royal Pita Maha hotel. The Spa at The Chedi Club Jl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak, Ubud. Telp: 0361-975685 www.ghmluxuryhotels.com Massage rooms overlook acres of swaying rice fields and Balinese hands impart some of the best massage treatments on the island. Unlike any other spa in terms of surroundings. Uma Ubud Spa Jl. Sanggingan, Ubud, Bali. Telp: 0361-972448 www.umaubud.como.bz Map Ref: B5 This Zen inspired spa already calms the spirit on entering. Add to that the excellence of COMO Shambhala’s exclusive products and unique massage therapies and one has, quite simply, entered heaven. Verona Day Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud, Bali. Telp: 0361-970975. www.veronaspa.com
Ubud. Tel: 0361-977121. www.macan-tidur-textiles. com. Map Ref: L7. Unique and varied collection of woven and hand-dyed textiles, clothes and sarongs from all over the Indonesian Archipelago. Many with storytelling themes such as the Western tapestries, but woven instead of knotted or sewn. Threads of Life Jl. Kajeng 24, Ubud. Tel: 0361-976581 & 976582. www.threadsoflife.com Maintaining and promoting traditional forms of weaving and cloth making. Handmade traditional textiles from Bali, Flores, Java, Kalimantan, Sulawesi, Sumba and Timor.
U UDENG Traditional headcloth worn by men; called ‘dastar’ in high Balinese.
Just go! There are many wonderful walks in every direction from Ubud, through villages, rice terraces, jungle gorges, and grassy hilltops. Don’t be afraid. Just strike out in any direction. You can walk anywhere you like, without “trespassing”. Don’t be shy, just be courteous. The best of the Ubud area is off the roads, so grab a map, or just go rambling without one. Often the best discoveries are purely coincidental and can’t be found in any guidebook. If you prefer to follow a good leader, day treks are offered by adventure guides under our Adventure listing. WILDLIFE Bali Bird Park and Rimba Reptil Singapadu, Batubulan. Tel: 0361-299352. www.bali-bird-park.com It’s all on at the Bali Bird Park… there’s an Avian 4D Theater, Reptilarium, Free Flight bird show and Komodo experience, plus avian nursery and kids corner. Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus
the list Mantra, Gianyar. Tel: 0361-950000. www.balisafarimarinepark. com Bali Safari & Marine Park relives the legends of both human and animal in a large natural setting of 40 hectares. White tigers top the bill, but there are also lions, leopards and elephants. Stay overnight in the Mara River Safari Lodge. Bali Zoo Singapadu, Gianyar. Tel: 0361- 294357 www.bali-zoo.com Jovial zoo with 350 animal species, from birds to mammals (including Sumatran tigers) to reptiles and other animals, some of which are endemic to Indonesia. Best of all are the merry gibbons and the resident male orangutan called Jacky. Open Daily: 9am to 9pm. Elephant Safari Park & Lodge Jl. Elephant Park Taro. Tel: 0361-721480. www.elephantsafariparklodge. com Part of the respected Bali Adventure Tours company, the Elephant Safari Park at Taro is a world class retreat for pachyderms and their admirers. This is an extremely well put together attraction guaranteed to be a hit with all the family. An official member of the World Zoo Association, the Park meets International Standards for animal care and is set in more than 3.5 hectares of exotic eco-landscaped botanical gardens, surrounded by national forest. Facilities include a full Reception and Information Centre, a
comprehensive Museum, with a large collection of elephant
Tel: 0361-977917. www.rose.ne.jp/~ojara/bali/ sariapi Cultural Workshop Agung Rai Museum of Art. Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975742. www.armamuseum.com Nirvana Batik Courses Nirvana, Jl. Gautama 10, Padangtegal Kaja, Ubud. Tel: 0361-975415. www.nirvanaku.com Pranoto’s Art Gallery Private Painting Lessons Pranoto’s Art Gallery. Jl. Raya Ubud, Kutuh Kelod, Ubud. Telp: 0361-970827. www.age.jp/~pranoto/ Painting Class Ubud Hanging Gardens, Desa Buahan, Desa Payangan. Tel: 0361-982700. www.ubudhanginggardens. com
memorabilia and the only Mammoth Skeleton in South East Asia. Elephants can be seen bathing in the park lake, in between riding, painting or other activities. Hand-feed them, touch them, take photos with them, then learn more about the elephants ancestry and diversity at the Park’s historical and graphic displays. It’s all about the elephants, however – get up close and personal with these incredible animals in a beautiful tropical park setting. You can also stay in one of 25 luxury lodges set within the grounds, or simply visit for the day. WORKSHOPS Sari Api Ceramic Studio Ceramic Workshop Jl. Suweta 176 Bentuyung, Ubud.
Silversmithing Courses Studio Perak. Jl. Hanoman, Ubud. Tel: 0361-7801879. www.studioperak.com Thread’s of Life Gallery Jl. Kajeng 24 Ubud. Tel: 0361-972187. www.threadsoflife.com
Y YAYASAN/CHARITIES Yayasan Bumi Sehat Nyuh Kuning, PO Box 116, Ubud, Bali 80571. Tel: 0361-972969. www.bumisehatbali.org Yayasan IDEP Jl. Hanoman No. 42, Ubud. Telp: 0361- 981504. www.idepfoundation.org YOGA Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan, Ubud. Tel: 0361-977824 www.intuitiveflow.com Sanctuary for yoga and healing. Offers yoga classes, therapy and trainings; various healing treatments; workshops on healing arts. The Yoga Barn Jl. Pengoseken, Padang Tegal Tel: 0361-970992. www.theyogabarn.com Bali’s premier yoga centre located in the heart of Ubud. Offers yoga classes, pilates, dance, meditation, detox & cleansing, teacher trainings, special events, workshops and retreats. An instant connection to holistic Bali.
Book this space now for just Rp700,000 per month. Call Sales at The Bud on 0361-8446341.
green machine Time to save the world. We asked Bradley T. Gardner, founder of The GreenAsia Group, just how to go about it.
What is The GreenAsia group? TGAG is a company, established in 2007, to assist companies and individuals take responsibility for their greenhouse gas emissions, the amount of carbon emitted in their businesses and daily lives. We – mostly those of us in developed countries – are using up the world’s resources faster and faster year by year. Currently, on a date yet to be established in September, we have used all the resources that are available to us for the whole year, 10 days earlier than last year! For the rest of this year, we are in effect, ‘borrowing’ from next year’s resources. Fish reserves are running out ¬ latest is the bluefin tuna now on the endangered list…we chop down the trees faster than they can grow, we put more carbon into the atmosphere than it and the oceans can absorb, the tundra is de-icing and the ice-caps melting. What kind of a world are we leaving our grandchildren? We are all part of the problem and we all need to be part of the solution. TGAG wants to be a significant part of that
solution in Asia, and particularly Bali. Who’s behind it and when and how did it start? After opening Begawan Giri Estate, together with my wife, Debbie, I set up Begawan Foundation to assist with education, health and conservation issues in Bali. TGAG was born out of this, from the wish to see a more environmentally aware Bali, to the wish for South East Asia in general to take an environmental lead in helping itself, and to assist wherever possible those people and companies who see the need for genuine action, and not make the mistakes of the west. How does the group help to move companies in Bali into the Green Age? TGAG has created a platform which allows companies and individuals to be easily walked through the processes of measuring, reducing and offsetting GHG emissions. There is so much information out there that is often misunderstood or not easily
comprehended. We show how you can reduce carbon emissions and save money. What’s the single biggest factor in preventing all companies in Asia from being ‘green’? It’s not just the one factor, it’s a combination. There is the ‘head in the sand’ attitude, one that says: “It is not my problem.” The cost of getting started: returns outweigh costs, but some companies just don’t want to look at the initial cost of measuring, not understanding it is the first required step. There is inertia – it’s too difficult, it’s too late … How can we save money by taking care of our carbon footprint? By measuring accurately your or your company’s energy usage in order to target specific energy reductions. You will be able to involve your whole staff in an exercise that creates awareness and commitment to alleviating the effects of climate change. You will be able to reduce the amount of waste you generate and the amount of energy you use. This cuts costs and increases profit, sometimes very substantially. At the same time, you will be helping underprivileged communities in Asia’s least-developed countries. If we make companies greener, more efficient & better managed, does that not simply increase the amount of commerce and therefore add further pressure on our planet? The question is important, but simplistic. Yes it does, but it doesn’t have to…we don’t need to deny ourselves all pleasure in life, we just have to be smart about our choices. It’s still a consumer society, one that is not yet aware that lifestyles have to change. If the world can’t achieve that, then we are not making the necessary effort. So many companies say they are ‘green’ but in effect are being run in exactly the same way as before (greenwashing). How do we know they’re doing what they say? If they’re not specific about their claims, they’re probably not true. You want to know, check out their claims, or ask us to verify them for you. Keep them honest. It’s your responsibility too. It’s your holiday, reward the good guys. Ask your hotel what their policies on carbon emissions and CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) are. Go online and tell people who’s walking the talk and who’s not. What does it cost a company to work with The GreenAsia Group? Depends on the service and the size of a company. A carbon footprint can vary between US$2,000 and US$10,000, depending on what you want to measure. You should look at direct and indirect electricity and fuel usage, waste disposal, business travel, staff commuting, water usage. Individually created training programs are then available for staff – if the staff is not involved, then the benefits will be less. An eco audit is a good first step – see just how your company measures up, write up an environment policy that all are aware of, train the staff to be aware, responsible and committed, and then measure your carbon footprint. This three-day program costs around US$1,200. Who specifically are you working with in Bali? Bali has a long way to go to address its many problems in the ecological area and the clock is ticking. A major international survey in 2008 from over 100 experts from all sectors of the travel industry clearly showed that Bali’s ranking as a top destination was slipping because of runaway development and pollution. It
only ranked as well as it did because of the unique culture and topography of the island. It’s early days for us here. We’ve worked with various hotels and companies, we conducted preliminary energy audits for a dozen or so members of the Bali Hotels Association. We are undertaking courses leading to Green Globe certification. In the pipeline are major restaurants, educational facilities, small businesses and hotels and resorts in the hospitality industry. You talk about helping companies become and remain ‘carbon neutral’? What does that mean? To become ‘carbon neutral’ a company needs to measure its footprint, and most likely, for the first year, offset its calculated GHG emissions with carbon credit certificates in a clean energy project accredited by Kyoto Protocol. The company is then expected to set a target to reduce its emissions, so that the following year, there is a lower carbon footprint. TGAG can set up a staff (and management) training program to reduce emissions. It’s not a good advertisement for a company to have the same carbon footprint year after year, customers and associates pick up on the lack of social responsibility and act accordingly. What can we do here in Bali to positively affect the issue of climate change? Reduce your carbon footprint, take personal responsibility for yourself, your family and the decisions you make. Share the good and the bad. If you are in business, find out what you can do to lower your carbon footprint or go carbon neutral. Inform yourself. Work out what it costs and, if makes business sense, do the necessary. It will save you money and not necessarily in the long run. Sooner or later, if you have customers, you will have to anyway. Take notice that the subject of waste seems to be on everybody’s lips. The rivers run with rubbish, the rivers that were and still should be the Bali bathhouse. The seas and the beaches are filled with plastic, creating less than perfect conditions for both divers and surfers, the level of e-coli at beaches is often far too high. Rubbish piles up on the sides of the roads, which become rivers of plastic with the first major falls of rain, indiscriminate building without consideration for sewerage and waste disposal occurs. These infrastructure services must be looked at. Bali must work to keep its status as the island paradise. Take action, commit, do something…. Did you know? • If 10 million office workers used one less staple a day by reusing a paper clip, that could save 120 tonnes of steel per year. • Glass can be endlessly recycled with no loss in quality. Recycling glass also uses 30% less energy than making glass from new materials. Every tonne of glass recycled saves 135 litres of oil and avoids 1.2 tonnes of ash, sand and limestone. • Manufacturing recycled paper can use up to 90% less water and 50% less energy than making it from trees. • Energy saved from one recycled aluminium can will operate a TV set for 3 hours. • Every tonne of recycled paper saves enough electricity to power an average house for six months. www.thegreenasiagroup.com
the list Performance Schedules
Legong of Mahabarata Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) The Peliatan Master Janger Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Dancers & Musician of Peliatan Pondok Pekak Gamelan & Dance
Ubud Palace Padang Tegal Kaja Oka Kartini Arma Museum Lotus Pond Open Stage Bentuyung Village*** Batukaru Temple Balerung Mandera Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30
I.7 O.8 K.12 U.10 1.7 – – – J.7
Legong Dances Kecak Fire (Monkey Chant Dance) Barong & Keris Dance Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Women Gamelan & Dance Group Legong Telek Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet)
Ubud Palace Junjungan Village *** Wantilan Pura Dalem Ubud Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod ARMA Museum *** Pondok Bamboo
7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00
I.7 – – H.5 J.7 U.10 –
Ubud Palace Pura Desa Kutuh Padang Tegal Kelod Monkey Forest Balerung Stage *** Pura Dalem Ubud Lotus Pond Open Stage Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30
I.7 J.12 Q.9 S.6 – H.5 I.7 J.7
Ubud Palace Oka Kartini Yamasari Stage *** Padang Tegal Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 8.00 7.30 7.00 7.00 7.30 7.00 7.30
I.7 K.12 N.14 M.9 H.5 – U.10 J.7
TUESDAYS Ramayana Ballet Spirit of Bali Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Pupet) Legong Dance Legong Dance Women Gamelan w/Children Dancers Narita Dewi Gamelan & Dance
WEDNESDAYS Legong & Barong Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Topeng Jimat Chandra Wira Buana
the list Performance Schedules
Legong Trance & Paradise Dance Kecak (Monkey Chant Dance) Legong Dance The Barong & Keris Dance Barong & Keris Dance with Children Dancers Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Mepantigan Arts
Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Pura Desa Kutuh *** Pura Dalem Ubud Ubud Water Palace Pura Taman Sari Batukaru Temple Pondok Bamboo ARMA Museum ***
7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 8.00 6.30
I.7 – J.12 H.5 I.7 – – S.6 X.10
Barong Dance Legong & Barong Dance Kecak & Fire Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Jegog (Bamboo Gamelan) Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Barong & Keris Dance Women Gamelan
Ubud Palace Balerung Stage Pura Padang Kertha Oka Kartini Bentuyung Village *** Pura Dalem Ubud ARMA Museum *** Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod
7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.00 7.30 6.00 7.30
I.7 – P.9 K.12 – H.5 U.10 J.7
Legong Dance Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (Shadow Puppet) Legong Dance Frog Dance Beauty of Legong Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Wong
Ubud Palace Puri Agung Peliatan *** Padang Tegal Monkey Forest Ubud Water Palace Pondok Pekak Pura Dalem Ubud Pura Dalem Taman Kaja ARMA Museum ***
7.30 7.30 7.00 8.00 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.30 7.00
I.7 – M.9 S.6 I.7 M.8 H.5 – U.10
EVERY 1ST. AND 15TH: Gambuh Dance VENUE: Pura Desa Batuan *** TIME: 7.00 PM EVERY FULL MOON & NEW MOON: Kecak Rina Dance VENUE: ARMA Museum *** TIME: 7.00 PM *** Free transport from Ubud Tourist Information, ask them for detail (0361) 973285. Entrance fees are between Rp. 50.000,- to Rp. 150.000,Ticket for these performances can obtained at: Ubud Tourist Information, Jl. Raya Ubud, phone : 973285; ticket sellers on the street or the place of the performances. The price is the same wherever you buy it.
advertiser’s directory GALLERIES Tony Raka Gallery Tel: 0361-7816785 www.tonyrakaartgallery.com Page 17 Bud Map Z.14 HEALTH, SPA & SALONS Bali Spirit Tel: 0361-971236 www.theyogabarn.com Page FIC Bud Map O.10 Heaven & Earth Tel: 0361-972616 www.themansionbali.com Page 77 Bud Map D.3 Sayan Aesthetic Institute Tel: 0361-972648. www.aestheticbali.com Page 77 Bud Map D.3 Skin Organic Tel: 0361-975615 www.skinorganic.info Page 14 Bud Map L.8 HOTELS Alila Ubud Tel: 0361-975963 www.alilahotels.com Page 7 Bud Map A.2 Como Shambhala Tel: 0361-978888 www.como.bz Page 1 Bud Map A.2 Komaneka Tel: 0361-976090 www.komaneka.com Page 5 Bud Map L.4, P.7 Maya Ubud Tel: 0361-977888 www.mayaubud.com Page 17 Bud Map K.17 The Mansion Resort Hotel & Spa Tel: 972616. www.themansionbali.com. Page 77 Bud Map D.3 Ubud Hanging Gardens Tel: 0361-982700 www.ubudhanginggardens.com Back Cover Bud Map A.2 Uma Ubud Tel: 0361-972448 www.uma.ubud.como.bz
Bud Map A.2
PROPERTY Ubud Property Tel: 0361-970888 www.ubudproperty.com Page 11 Bud Map K.14 RECREATION Bali Bird Park Tel: 0361-299253 www.bali-bird-park.com Page 44 Waka Tel: 0361-848085 www.wakaexperience.com Page 77 RESTAURANTS Ary’s Warung Tel: 0361-976697 www.decko.com Page 3 Bud Map I.7 Bar Luna Tel: 0361-971832 www.casalunabali.com Page 16 Bud Map L.9 Café Des Artistes Tel: 0361-972706 Page 13 Bud Map K.5 Cinta Grill Tel: 0361-975395 www.baligoodfood.com Page 9 Bud Map P.7 Coffee & Silver Tel: 0361-975354 email@example.com Page 14 Bud Map Q.6 Glow at Como Shambala Tel: 0361-978888 www.como.bz Page 1 Bud Map A.2 Indochine Dine & Lounge at The Mansion Tel: 0361-972616 www.themansionbali.com Page 77 Bud Map D.3 Kafe Batan Waru Tel: 0361-977528 www.baligoodfood.com Page 11 Bud Map K.8 Kemiri at Uma Ubud
Tel: 0361-972448 www.uma.ubud.como.bz Page 1 Bud Map A.2 Minami Tel: 0361-970013 Page 12 Bud Map A.4 Mozaic Tel: 0361-975768 www.mozaic-bali.com Page 9 Bud Map B.4 Naughty Nuri's Tel: 0361-977547 Page 4 Bud Map B.4 Nomad Tel: 0361-977169 www.nomad-bali.com BIC Bud Map K.9 Siam Sally Tel: 0361-980777 www.baligoodfood.com Page 13 Bud Map V.9 Terazo Restaurant & Bar Tel: 0361-978941 www.baligoodfood.com Page 15 Bud Map H.8 West End Café Tel: 0361-978363 Page 13 Bud Map A.4 SHOP Horizon Glassworks Tel: 0361-7804014 www.horizonglassworks.com Page 15 Bud Map F.2 JFF www.jf-f.com Page 12
Bud Map H.9
Macan Tidur Tel: 0361-977121 www.macantidur.com Page 16 Bud Map K.7 The Shop Tel: 0361-973508 www.ShopatTheShop.com Page 2 Bud Map C.3 MISCELLANEOUS FNPF Tel: 0361-977978 www.fnpf.org Page 15 Bud Map K.4
NATIONAL & INTERNATIONAL The Bud is available in selected outlets in Jakarta, Singapore, Malaysia and Brunei, in airport and hotel business lounges, as well as in selected villas, hotels and partner venues in Seminyak and throughout Bali. NATIONAL The Bud is also on sale in outlets of Circle K stores in Bali, including Seminyak, Kuta, Legian, Tuban, Jimbaran, Nusa Dua, Denpasar and Sanur, and at selected distribution points in Ubud, including Periplus bookstores at Monkey Forest, Bintang Supermarket and Tino’s, as well as in Ary’s Bookshop, Alila Shop Ubud, Coffee & Silver, Fly Cafe Restaurant, Komaneka Shop, Murni’s Warung and Verona salon. VENUE COPIES Alila Hotel Ubud Adi’s Gallery Ubud Amandari Resort Ubud Arma Resort Ary’s Warung Aston Nandini Bali Animal Welfare Association Bali Good Food Bali Masari Villas Bali Spirit Siam Sally Bali Bird Park BARC Batan Waru Restaurant Bloomz Flower Botanic Garden Bumbu Bali
Bumi Sehat Butterfly Book Café Des Artistes Casa Luna Restaurant Casa Pasta Cinta Restaurant Coffee & Silver Como Shambhala Dirty Duck Earth Day Elephant Safari Park Esthetique Clinic Fly Café Four Seasons Sayan Gaya Gallery Green School Bali Highway Horizon Glassworks Macan Tidur Maya Ubud Resort and Spa Mozaic Bali Imogiri Spa Indochine Restaurant Indus Restaurant Jazz Café Restaurant JFF Jewelry Kamandalu Kayu Manis Villa Komaneka Kori Resort Kupu-Kupu Barong Lamak Restaurant Maya Hotel Ubud Minami Mozaic Restaurant Murni’s Warung Museum Rudana
Nacho Mamas Naughty Nuri’s Neka Museum Nomad Restaurant Paul’s Place Paul Ropp Purama Villa, Rendezvousdoux Restaurant Rio Helmi Royal Pita Maha Resort and Villas Taal Seniwati Gallery Skin Organic Sobek Adventure Rafting Tama Galery Taman Hati Terazo Restaurant The Café The Chedi Club The Green House The Mansion Hotel The Shop The Viceroy Bali/Cascades Three Monkeys Cafe Tony Raka Ubud Treasure Restaurant Tutmak Restaurant Ubud Hanging Gardens Ubud Property Ubud Sari Ubud Village Resort Uma Hotel Ubud Verona Salon Wah Gallery Warwick Ibah Hotel Ubud West End Café Wina Gallery
THE CHEDI CLUB
Place of interest
Pura Gunung Sari
I JL. GUNUNG SAR
PELI AI ( JL.
Peliatan RONG G
Entrance fee: Adults Rp. 15,000 Children Rp. 7,500
Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana Sacred Monkey Forest Santuary Coffee & Copper
Gemala Jewelery Pizza Bagus
Hanna Art Space Gajah Gallery
Agung Rai Museum of Art ARMA RESORT Flava Lounge Ateliers
YAPENGOSEKAN L. RA
Agung Rai Gallery
UKM A (T
THE VICEROY BALI Cascades
JL. C OK G
Coffee & Silver Tanah Merah
Pura Dalem Agung Temple
RA W ANA
KOMANEKA Three Monkeys Cinta UBUD INN Verona
SAY A) EBE
Bloomz Bali Spirit Tegun The Kafe
Bumbu Bali II
Milano Bodyworks Lamak
JL. TIR TA TA WAR
JL. SAN DAT
JL. SRI W EDARI
To ELephant Safari Park
TEGALALANG 10km TARO 16km KINTAMANI 22km
Seniwati Gallery Super of Art by Women Market Adi’s Art Kupu Kupu Studio & Foundation Gallery Ubud Market Divya Nomad Gallery Highway Property Place Neka Gallery Cafe Des Macan Sagu Artistes Tidur Space JL. COK PUTRA S. Colonie Ganesha Pura Jazz JL. D Dalem Puri EWI Cafe SITA Asia Line Bookstore Sukma Skin Organic Tutmak Bali Pondok Pekak Library Taal Buddha Siwa Ratih Deli Hanoman Cat Juice Bar
Alamkara UBUD VILLAGE HOTEL Cafe Wayan Greenhouse Wah Tama Gallery
Pura Prajapati Cemetary
One way street
JL. SUGRIW A
Rendezvous 6:0 Gusti Lempad’s 0 - Gallery 18: 00
Rio Helmi Terazo Bumbu Bali I Ibu Oka
BUD Casa Luna Ary’s Warung
To The Mansion To Sayan Aesthetic Institute
RUMAH RIO JF-F
Batan AlamkaWaru ra Bar JL. GO Luna
Blanco Renaissance Museum
N NA TA
ES EN .P
Ubud Kaja UBUD WARWICK IBAH SARI Puri Lukisan
VILLA PURI SAYAN
T RO AD)
JL. W ANA
to Como Shambhala, Alila, Komaneka & Ubud Hanging Gardens
KUPU KUPU BARONG Tegalalang Kusia Gallery AMANDARI West End Cafe Minami THE VICEROY BALI UMA UBUD Naughty Nuri’s Cascades Sobek Adventure Rafting INDUS KAMANDALU Mozaic PITA MAHA Bali Adventure Rafting Periplus Paul Ropp Gaya Gallery The Shop UBUD FOUR SEASONS THE MANSION Sayan Aesthetic Institute VILLA KIRANA
Genta UBUD VILLAGE RESORT
DENPASAR 26km via MAS
JL. NYUH KUNING
Rudana Rudana Museum
To Tony Raka Gallery
Photo: Marjorie Green.
H a p p ily
A F T E R
haP P I LY
A F T ER?
Michael Andrews visits Ubud medicine man Ketut Liyer â€“ immortalised in the bestselling book and soon to be movie Eat, Pray, Love â€“ to examine who exactly is the man behind the myth, and why he has become such a hero to hourdes of foreign truth seekers.
Photo: Tracey Tomtene.
Is it possible that absolutely no one these days is safe from the odious snare of instantaneous celebrity? Case in point – a woodcarver and medicine man from Ubud who had lived his entire life in a relatively peaceful obscurity – until becoming immortalised in the memoir Eat, Pray, Love by American writer, Elizabeth Gilbert. Enter stage right, to the Pop-Spirituality Supermarket of the world, Mr Ketut Liyer. Since Gilbert’s book reached the bestseller list and became Oprah-fied, Ketut’s popularity has soared with spirituality-seeking women from around the world. The number of his western visitors has increased from a few tourists here-and-there – most wanting to just look at his paintings – to up to twenty people lined up at a time to receive a palm reading. The majority of his current visitors are women in their 40s and 50s, but there are females of all ages arriving at his doorstep, along with the odd boyfriend or husband in tow. While many of these are Western travellers who already happen to be in Bali on vacation or for a yoga retreat, there are more and more who are specifically trekking to Indonesia to meet the characters of Eat, Pray, Love in person. Previous to the book’s release, Ketut had been charging Rp50,000 to 100,000 for a palm reading and US$150 for a magic painting. His rates have increased incrementally as people have continued converging to his simple Balinese home, where he sits outside on his porch all day. Current prices are set at $25 for a tenminute reading and $450 for a painting. This phenomenon of visitors, many carrying the book to get signed, brings up a series of questions. What exactly is attracting these tourists to see Ketut, what are they gaining from their visit; and is he actually able to live up to the reputation he has garnered in the memoir? With the movie version starring Julia Roberts scheduled for release in 2010, one wonders how many more consumers in the worldwide Spiritual Supermarket are going to make their pilgrimage to Ketut. And what aisle will he finally be relegated to: that of a Holy Man who can foresee the future and make dreams come true (as he aided in Gilbert’s) or that of a tourist attraction who makes himself available to his fans for a price, not unlike a Leonard Nimoy at a Star Trek convention? My introduction to the world of Ketut came slightly over a year ago while browsing the airport bookshop on a stopover in Hong Kong, en route to a vacation in Bali. Gilbert’s memoir, which has sold over six million copies, was prominently featured among their common offerings of self-help titles. I had noticed a mention of the author’s adventures in Bali and decided it would be a good read for the four-hour flight into the Island of the Gods. No sooner did I find my seat in coach and remove the paperback out of my carry-on than the lady sitting next to me opened her laptop and excitedly began showing me pictures of her with a happy-looking Balinese man. She enthusiastically informed me that this was the Ketut, the Medicine Man, the one who had helped enable the Elizabeth Gilbert to find happiness, and that
anyone could just drop by to see him and get a palm reading. I skipped the “Eat” and “Pray” sections of the book and cut straight to the third act on “Love”, about Bali (although I did finish the other sections later). I read Gilbert’s description of Ketut as being “extraordinary” with a face that is “an encyclopedia of kindness.” She wrote of his correct prediction – some two years prior – that she would lose all her money (which she did through divorce) then return to Bali to live for four months and gain it all back. Gilbert writes in the book that it was Ketut’s “prophecy”, as she refers to it, which enabled her to formulate the concept of Eat, Pray, Love in the first place (and receive the ensuing book advance to carry it through). Sitting on the plane, I decided that I too was going to go visit Ketut when I arrived in Bali. It’s not too often that one gets the chance to meet a character from a book, not to mention a Balinese Medicine Man who can make a “prophecy” for one’s future. I thought of characters from other books I would enjoy meeting if given the chance: Salinger’s Holden Caulfield, Hugo’s Jean Valjean, Coelho’s Alchemist, Tolkien’s Gandalf – even if they too would be charging well over market value for a palm reading. I admit to at the time having a wish somewhere in the back of my mind, that if Ketut had been able to inspire Gilbert’s life, maybe he could assist me in finding a path to my own literary aspirations. A few days later, while at a dinner party in Seminyak, I mentioned my plan to visit Ketut and within minutes there were three ladies interested in accompanying me to Ubud the next day. They all had friends back home who loved the book, and they couldn’t wait to tell them; they were going to meet The Medicine Man. Upon meeting Ketut Liyer, my first impression was that he is a lovely man. Ketut’s face does radiate kindness. For Ketut, life is simple: people come to him, he smiles and he reads their palms. Most people report feelings of contentment in his presence. However, as it’s also written on countless websites, he seems to say the mostly the same things to almost everyone. He tends to tell each visitor that they are “a very good person” have “very good karma” and are a “very lucky person.” Admittedly, I did feel rather special hearing such flattery with regards to my personality, my spirit, my health…until the other three ladies I was accompanying received basically the same portrayals. Yet I still wasn’t ready to give up on the idea – and I still am not – that somehow, those warm old eyes have some magic in them, even though his suggestion that I would be marrying the lady sitting next to me didn’t seem in the realm of possibility. To try to understand the strength of Ketut’s appeal to those who have read Eat, Pray, Love, it’s worth looking at how Gilbert structured the story of her soul-searching pilgrimage and to see how her positioning of Ketut within her book is an influencing factor as to how readers perceive him. In the definitive study on the hero journey, The Hero with a Thousand Faces, mythologist Joseph Campbell distills the elements
inherent in all myths from every culture into the identical stages through which the hero journeys. Campbell concludes that these similar story elements, springing up independently all over the world throughout history, link us into an archetypal pattern existing in all humanity and works as an aid for our common need for growth and transformation. As with many writers, Gilbert is likely acquainted with the work of Campbell, although she may not have deliberately constructed her story to fit in with the stages of the common myth, as George Lucas acknowledged its influence on Star Wars. Nonetheless, Gilbert’s own hero journey contains all the recurrent essentials. As Campbell suggests, these elements bring us to tap unconsciously into universal archetypes, drawing us deeper into our own selves than may be warranted by the actual material itself. Corresponding to the classic pattern, Gilbert pushes her story of a woman searching for happiness towards the level of the mythic hero journey. One of the first stages early on in the hero’s path is the meeting with the “little old crone” or the old man or talisman who provides the adventurer with wisdom and protection against the potentially evil and bewildering forces which they will encounter. Campbell labels this component: “Supernatural Aid.” Here is Gilbert’s description of Ketut on their first meeting two years prior to the actual start of her pilgrimage: “a small, merryeyed, russet-colored old guy with a mostly toothless mouth, whose resemblance in every way to the Star Wars character Yoda cannot be exaggerated.” Prior to the meeting Gilbert had been told that she was allowed to bring one question or problem to Ketut. When it’s her turn she tells him, “I want to learn how to live in this world and enjoy its delight, but also devote myself to God.” Ketut then draws her a picture explaining that the message contained within is the key to finding the happiness and balance that she longs for, explaining that this is the way she’ll “know God.” He then makes the mentioned “prophecy” for her future. Thus, Ketut Liyer – later to be depicted as “hopping up nimbly, gnome-like” – is linked into the description of the mythic Wiseman. The words “merry-eyed” could possibly conjure a vague association to Santa Claus in the reader’s unconscious and Gilbert makes a direct reference equating Ketut to “Yoda”, the all-knowing Jedi master. Ketut’s eminent wisdom will later be revealed through phrases such as “Smile with your mind” and “Let your conscious be your guide.” Fortunately he stops short of saying, “May The Force be with You.” I bring this up because, for the purpose of the book, (as well as in the reader’s awareness) Ketut ceases to appear as a regular man. He has been raised to a category of a “sub-deity”, a knower of the invisible spirit world. This status awarded early on as a talisman reaches a payoff in stage three of Gilbert’s journey while she closes in on finding a way to true happiness on all levels. In the third section, “Love”, after Gilbert has received her training from her teacher Ketut (or if you prefer, Mr Miyagi from
The Karate Kid; Gilbert would have been 15 years old when that film was released),she pays him a visit to say her goodbye. Gilbert is now fully prepared to make her transition from the “road of trials” stage in the hero journey into the next step of the “crossing of the return threshold” back into the “real” world. Whereas at the beginning of the memoir, Gilbert appeared a wearisome figure – broken-hearted, depressed, medicated, without money, confused and unsure about God, she now stands in front of Ketut, transfigured – confident and happy, looking both younger and more beautiful than before. Ketut asks her a series of questions to confirm that she has transformed on the inside as well. Gilbert replies “yes” to all his queries – her recurring nightmares have stopped, she is happy with God, she feels balanced and is in love. The unwritten prologue, known to each and every reader, is that Gilbert also obtains worldly success and adoration through her bestselling book – a heartwarming tale that has touched and inspired millions of people, myself not exempted. In my interviews with those who are planning to see Ketut or have already seen him, I have observed that they fall into three distinct categories. The first are great fans of the book that have been influenced deeply by Gilbert’s story. These women when they meet Ketut are so delighted and “starry-eyed” as one visiting yoga teacher commented, that more often than not, they do find a special meaning in something he says, cherishing every word he emits as a positive mantra instilled only to them. Members of the second group are familiar on some level with the book but are also somewhat skeptical as to whether this apparent soothsayer can really see the future. Nonetheless, their curiousity has been piqued and they wish to evaluate this potentially great man in person. This is the group that I fell into prior to my first visit; most of us in this category carry some level of hope of the miraculous with us even if it’s just a glimmer. The third group is less familiar with the book and most of them haven’t read it. They are consulting Ketut specifically because of his reputation as a famous psychic medicine man and most have friends who adore the book and have been encouraged by them to go. This is the group where many of the disgruntled visitors fit in. People of this particular group haven’t had their perceptions clouded by a literary construction and it’s not sufficient enough for them to merely meet Ketut. They are seeking insight and direction in their lives and are expecting to meet the real deal; a bona fide psychic palm reader. These visitors have been known to get really upset when they are told the very same things as their friends (and most everyone else) and tend to feel slighted afterward. I recently spoke with a driver in Ubud, who for the last year has been guiding tourists from all over the world (the majority of them women) to see Ketut. He now has begun cautioning the visitors en route of what to expect – for he has felt the backlash from some of his clients who have felt cheated by the session. Alas, many western tourists often consider it the duty of a cab driver to warn them about a potentially charlatan psychic before they wait the
Photo: Marjorie Green.
Photo: Marjorie Green.
ever FEATURE F EATURE
two or three hours to see him. The driver tells me about a group of three women from France he drove to see Ketut. When the second woman was given the same reading as the first, she started to get upset. She ended up walking away when Ketut had told her that her husband “is a very good man” (as he says to most married women.) Bad timing for our resident psychic, as this was a couple weeks after the husband had left her for another woman. Next, it was the third lady’s turn to receive the standard chronicle. She stopped things promptly after Ketut told her she had a “very good back” (which he also tells most people.) Unfortunately, she had recently been in a motorbike accident and her spine had needed to be stabilised with metal pins. Within the second category of visitors, there are mixed responses. They are all happy to have had the experience of meeting Ketut to see what the hype is all about (for better or worse) but they don’t seem to put too much stock in what he actually says. Some complain that they were disappointed to find out that they were told similar things as everyone else, but many of them still hold onto the hope that he instilled upon them at least a little divine foresight. In the first category of seekers, many report that the meeting with Ketut was the highlight of their trip to Bali and end up telling anyone they know that they have to go see him as well. Their only disappointment appears to be that Ketut didn’t suggest to them, as he did to Gilbert, that they come back to become his student and be imparted with his wisdom and techniques, such as the “happiness meditation”, one of the sixteen meditations Ketut knows, according to Gilbert. In the field of psychology, there are various theories to describe what happens when a person is given preconceived expectations of another person or object and what biases can occur. Studies in Selective Perception Theory and Value Attribution show that by providing an initial perceived value of a person – even if it has been randomly made up about that person (or in this case fictionalised) – it will then cause us to imbue that person with those same qualities we have been provided with. Once this idea has been fabricated in us, it dramatically alters our perceptions of subsequent (and especially contradictory) information. Simply put, once we have an idea in our head about something, it’s actually difficult to change, regardless of what we see for ourselves. This is similar to the premise behind the Placebo Effect – when a medication has not actually been administered, yet the patient experiences better health under the false assumption that one has. For the people who have read and loved the book, it doesn’t seem to actually matter much what actually transpires during their meeting with Ketut; they are always going to be pleased by the experience and feel truly touched afterwards. Ostensibly, there are now cases of people seeing him hoping for a medical miracle to transpire. A visit to Ketut that is made for fun or to enhance a reader’s experience of Eat, Pray, Love is absolutely harmless – kind of like
a real life version of the “DVD extras” tacked onto movies. But somewhere in the reading of an emotionally-charged book like Eat, Pray, Love, a clear mind – especially when the reader is going through their own difficulties – may become clouded with all kinds of fantasy. Such fantasy can create unreal expectations. I spoke with a lady who was going to visit Ketut with the hope that he could cure her of cancer. For some people what may occur in their visit to Ketut is what I’ll refer to as Pseudo-Experiencing. The actual event becomes secondary to the story of the event. In the definition I’m offering here, the Pseudo Experience occurs when a predetermined meaning (created in this case by the attention around a bestselling memoir) combines with the perceived future worth of the experience for use in our social networks (“I can’t believe you did that!”) which proceeds to overpower the intrinsic value that one actually receives by the experience itself. To put it simply, what transpires during the actual event is less important than the combination of the pre-existing hype and ballyhoo and its later use as an enviable story – enhanced by a Twitter message or Facebook update or blog entry. This can be seen easily with the teenager at a concert spending more time in text-messaging their friends or taking pictures to upload, than simply enjoying the concert itself. There then is the tendency to be less immersed in the original meaning of the experience itself and instead to be caught in the illusion of the outside meanings that have been prescribed to it (like non-football fans watching the Super Bowl) thus removing one’s self from the inherent value and towards a Pseudo-Experience. A year after meeting Ketut for the first time, I returned to the medicine man’s home, and had a big plan for my interview with him – a big plan that failed miserably. I had prepared a series of questions asking him about the relation of his character in the book and regarding the people coming to see him. I had thought that this Eat, Pray, Love phenomenon at some point would have sparked some personal reflection due to the sheer numbers of people coming to see him and what he felt that he could offer them. Although he has many different copies of the book on his shelf, Ketut said that he didn’t really understand what Eat, Pray, Love was all about because he couldn’t read English. He did tell me he felt “very happy” and “very lucky” that so many people came to visit him because of the book. I asked him what he thought about a movie being made with an actor playing him and he answered “very happy” and “very lucky”, since it would be easier for him to understand what the story was about should he be able to watch it on television. Instead of offering up any opinions, insights or thoughts, Ketut simply invited me to watch him at work. He was helping a Balinese man who had come to him because his mother was very ill. Ketut read the mother’s astrology charts and interpreted that she had had many previous incarnations where she was a very bad person. Because of her prior wrongdoings, the gods were refusing to allow
Photo: Tracey Tomtene.
her another human body. Instead of accepting her fate, she had made a bargain with the gods, promising that if they let her be human again she would conduct an earthly ritual and sacrifice a suckling pig as a “thank you”. Ketut suggested that because the man’s mother had reneged on the deal and forgot about the sacrifice, the gods were angry and were now making her sick. She must be told not to wait any longer in performing the ceremony. For good measure Ketut also prescribed her a tea made from coconut root. For his Western clients, Ketut operates in the manner of a welltrained customer service representative and with this holy man it is always “service with a smile”, a warm, affectionate, cherubic smile. It’s a smile that can lead one to believe that his complete absence of curiousity about his portrayal in a book which he’s signed countless times is just a symptom of his being so very Zen and content that he has completely given up any worldly concerns (aside from earning the average Balinese weekly salary in a single reading.) In spending time with Ketut again and watching him giving palm readings to “starry-eyed” tourists, I couldn’t help being reminded of Peter Sellers in his Oscar winning role as “Chance the Gardiner” in the film Being There. Chance is a simple-minded man who isn’t “all there”, but others read deeply into the few things that he does manage to say. Through a series of events, Chance ends up meeting the President of the United States – who is desperate for advice on how the economy can be fixed. Having never left
the home where he served as gardener his whole life, Chance can only reiterate, “In a garden, growth has its season. There is spring and summer, but there is also fall and winter. And then spring and summer again.” In the film, Chance’s “metaphoric philosophy” is accepted as refreshing optimism and is repeated by the grateful president in his State of the Union Address. After building up Ketut for the purposes of her memoir, Gilbert has since downplayed his role as a psychic. In her remarks about Ketut on her website she doesn’t allude to the possibility that Ketut could teach others the meditations she received from him. Instead, she speaks of him in a more simplistic way. “He’ll read your palm and tell you’ll that you’ll live to be 110 years old.” If she had written in her book about him in this manner, it’s doubtful that the character of Ketut would’ve been able to elicit the same emotional responses from her readers. However, in the quintessential soul-searching mythic hero journey, a Merlin or a Gandalf is required and this archetype, as Joseph Campbell suggests, forges a deep connection with our common psyche as humans. If the Ketut of the book doesn’t really exist, if in fact he is just a very happy, beautiful soul, then Gilbert would have had to exaggerate the details of the actual Ketut in order to enhance the story. As an author, she had to play it up, she had a duty to tell a good story and one of the techniques she used was to shroud the character of Ketut with mystery. She writes of Ketut infusing water with his “sacred power” and suggests that he may be 120 years
old. Alas, if she weren’t such a talented writer, she would have ended up something with more in common with a “what I did on my summer vacation” essay. But why not play up the Medicine Man? Isn’t the whole benefit of a good story to take us into our own subconscious to provoke our imaginations beyond merely “what is” and into the realm of “what could be”? As readers, we want it that way. I would go so far as to suggest that had the events of the book been reversed and the title changed to Love, Pray, Eat, with the third act set in Italy, Gilbert would have imbued some Zorba the Greek-like Italian chef with the qualities she attributes to Ketut. Rather than a gentle smile and soft words, the chef would have used the art of cooking to teach her about love and happiness and encourage her transformation. Instead of journeying to Bali and seeing Ketut, fans of the book would now be more inclined to travel to Italy to meet someone who can perform virtual miracles with tomatoes, basil and penne. The success of Ketut the character and Ketut the tourist attraction, is that they both make a great play on the part of us that wants to believe there are people with superlative abilities out there who have the answers. At the same time, such prophets must be willing to confirm our deeply-guarded suspicions that we, too, have great – and often latent – abilities inside of us. Just like the sports stars we cheer on to make the seemingly-impossible play, we are rooting for Ketut when we meet him. We’re on his side.
But by choosing to visit Ketut, on this island filled with supposedly miraculous spiritual men and healers, are we merely looking for a prescribed pseudo-experience or are we receiving – as Gilbert did – a personal benefit to our lives? Perhaps it’s missing the point of having our own spiritual journey. In Eat, Pray, Love, Gilbert quotes the Bhagavad-Gita. “It is better to live your own destiny imperfectly than to live an imitation of somebody else’s life with perfection.“ By merely visiting Ketut to say that we’ve been there in a type of “McSpiritualism for the Masses”, are we possibly missing out to whom and to where our own unique destiny may lead us for our own fulfillment? As for my first visit to Ketut, the accompanying ladies were not quite sold on Ketut’s psychic ability and I never did actually even go on a date with the woman that he said I would marry. Remarkably however for the women, this past year has seen each of their wishes at the time manifest itself: one has found the dream job she had desired, another the great relationship she was seeking, and the third has been given an opportunity to travel around the world. For me, the hope I held in my heart during my session with Ketut was that I would return to Bali to begin my life as a writer. And although Ketut didn’t specifically predict it, I did in fact return here a few months ago to begin this pursuit. All this leading me to believe that unlikely as it is for Ketut, the man, to live up to Ketut, the character, perhaps there is some wishgranting magic in this “merry-eyed gnome” after all.
Karen Waddell is one half of the creative team that brought us Kafe Batan Waru…among other superb eateries in the BGF stable…Siam Sally, Cinta Grill and Terazo. She spoke to The Bud about what makes it all so worthwhile. Photos: Yaeko Masuda.
Karen, when did you start Kafe Batan Waru, and why? Perhaps you can tell us a bit about how you came to Bali too... I arrived here almost 25 years ago, supposedly taking a gap year between university and grad school – and then I met Gusky. It took twelve days to realise we were meant for each other. We obviously shared a lot of interests, among them a passion for cooking and eating. Gusky introduced me to real Indonesian cuisine, the good stuff conspicuously absent from the island's restaurants back then. We talked for years about opening a place that would get people excited about Indonesian fare, and in 1997 we finally launched Kafe Batan Waru. People from every country seem to eat there. But what's similar about them? Is there a common thread in the people you host? Batan Waru seems to capture the gamut, from backpackers to a former United States President. That’s the beauty of casual eateries, of the experience of
coming together at the table to “break bread”, so to speak. It’s the daily common denominator for all of us. You're an excellent chef too, right? Tell us what you like about Indonesian food, from a 'foodies' point of view? And about how you created the menu… There’s a little word in Indonesian, ‘mantap’, that is used to express something that is balanced just right. ‘Mantap’ can describe the lucid logic of a legal argument, or the subtle interplay of flavours in a spice paste. It is the gold standard of Indonesian food, which relies on a balance of flavours, for instance sweet palm sugar in counterpoint to sour tamarind, or measured doses of pungent rhizomes blended with garlic and shallots. For our small opening menu, I worked with my mother- and sister-inlaw to extrapolate our family recipes into something workable for a commercial kitchen. Sometimes we still cook dishes at home and bring them to the restaurant. In terms of cooking and ingredients,
how does the food at KBW compare to cuisine from other restaurants in the BGF stable, like Thai for instance? Is it a straightforward cuisine? Actually, Indonesian recipes are not straightforward at all. There is a lot of double cooking of ingredients – braise and fry, for example – as well as the use of unusual indigenous ingredients, like the leaves of cumin and turmeric plants, or a tree resin called ‘menyan”. What I love about cooking Thai at Siam Sally, the restaurant we opened in Ubud earlier this year, is how accessible and fresh the ingredients are. Initially there were a few Thai herbs we could not find, but the climate here and in Thailand is the same and we are now growing the herbs we need on our farm in Taro, north of Ubud. There are two Kafe Batan Warus at the moment, any plans for more? I never say no. Gusky is the dealmaker when it comes to finding locations and designing our restaurants. Let’s ask him what he has up his sleeve!
What principles do you use in deciding how the restaurants look, feel and operate? I am fortunate to come from a great dining city, New York, and Gusky and I eat our way around the globe. Having said this, we find the restaurants we return to regularly are the ones that allow us to be ourselves. That’s how we want someone to feel when he or she eats in any of our restaurants, whether it’s white tablecloths at Terazo or licking the barbecue sauce off their fingers at Cinta Grill. We try to create restaurants with soul, with physical environments that are comfortable and inviting, and staffed by individuals who naturally convey hospitality and a sense of belonging to our guests. What's the best comment you've ever heard about the restaurant in Ubud? A customer once went in the kitchen and kissed the cook, but I think the best comment of all is how much repeat business we have.
What's the most popular dish on the menu? Good ol’ Nasi Campur. I can’t seem to stay away from it either. You mix Indonesian favourites with desserts straight out of American Pie. How does that work? Remember that Indonesians don’t really eat desserts, per se. They snack on little rice sweets as snacks, but not as a big dessert to cap a meal. This is where the American girl in me comes out. Batan Waru is a homestyle restaurant, so whoever said you can’t sell homestyle pies – that just happen to be American? With so much food in your life, do you ever get jaded? When were you last excited about something that you ate? Last night! I caramelised red onions with Balsamic syrup, made potato hash in my ancient iron skillet, and barbecued some chicken for a rare dinner at home. It was delicious and shared with family. Every day I get to play with fruits and vegetables and create dishes that deliver
sustenance and pleasure to guests. Who could ever get jaded about that? What's the most important thing about running a successful restaurant in Bali? Being passionate about food and hospitality and conveying that enthusiasm to staff. I like to think of all relationships, personal and professional, as opportunities to elevate each other. In all our restaurants, it’s about everyone rising to the highest level. What's the largest number of people you've catered for at the restaurant? None of us who were there will ever forget doing 962 covers over a weekend. It was a zoo. There wasn’t a grain of rice left to sell by the time we closed. Who or what is your biggest asset at the restaurant? That’s easy. Our staff. Karen, thanks so much for your time! Truly my pleasure.
The Agung Rai Museum of Art in Peliatan is one of the most respected in Bali, with a remarkable private collection of works by Balinese, Javanese and foreign artists, including all of the greats. The man behind it is no less of a legend. He spoke with Salvador Bali. Photos Yaeko Masuda.
Background, if you will. Balinese, 53 years old, living in Ubud with my wife and four children, and of course my father. What kind of education did you have? Around 1970 I learnt from the human nature of people, mostly in the Ubud area where I met tourists and backpackers and foreigners who came to live here. Did you go to school here? Yes. Nine years until Jr. High School. After that my father could not afford so send me to High School. What did you do to support yourself? My early life was very traditional. I helped my parents, worked in the rice fields, fed the ducks and cows. My father was not rich; we had a hard life with only one house and there we cooked with firewood, no cement at all, only clay, and we’d sleep in the same place in which we cooked. There were five of us, my older brother passed away and so there are only three of us now. So you take care of your father as well? Of course, it’s part of my past. How did you get to travel abroad? Well I got lucky. I did the same thing as with you, not a tourist thing, it was personal. I was 16 years old and it was in the ’70s and there weren’t many tourists in those days. I took them to the Monkey Forest. Again in those days nobody knew of the Monkey Forest. Here and there, anything to make a rupiah. When did you start to paint? I started when I was 12 years old.
Do you still paint now? Of course, every day, but sketching only. When did you start selling your paintings? Around 1975. I went to Seminyak to the Golden Village where foreigners first started to live. I sold a painting for Rp150 million. Oh my God that was so much money then. I bought land for my father. Until then he had always worked for someone else. My father was so happy, my was he proud! How much was an are of land in those days? Maybe Rp25,000 an are. We still have the land. At what age did you start travelling, and how did that come about? I met two guys in Kuta in 1980 who loved Balinese paintings and they sponsored me to go to London. For what reason? They liked me. I had no thoughts up until then and I had to work hard to make money. Before that, in 1972, I had a motorbike, and I sold it to buy the land where the museum is now, two and a half are. I got more money and more land but always with the dream of having an art gallery and in 1978 I opened it. Wait a minute, let’s backtrack a bit, I’m still with the travel thing. This is how I met people. Oh, OK. So this was another gallery, not the museum land. Yes, a commercial gallery called the Agung Rai Fine Arts Gallery and the people loved my collection and took me to Holland. So Holland was your first stop?
Yes, Amsterdam. I introduced Balinese art to some people who owned a gallery. Where did you learn English? My English is street English; I picked it up from all over. So you’re self-educated? I can read, but cannot write. Believe me, you speak extremely well and you’re very quickminded and I would venture to say the school of hard knocks can be much more of an education for life if you learn by it. I think so. Now you have the inspiration for travelling, did you come back to Bali or did you go further in your travels? From Holland I went to Paris where I had a big problem, because to go to Paris I had to have a visa. What happened? I met someone in a restaurant in Amsterdam, introduced myself by saying I was Balinese and from Ubud and they knew Ubud. I told them I would love to go to Paris, but I had no money, and that I would have to go back to Bali. They wanted to help me and gave me 50 Guilders. You know what happened to me in Paris? [Laughter] I’m all ears. I rented a small hotel room and could not sleep. I woke up early, cold and hungry and I ordered food and they wouldn’t give it to me because it was so early. I complained and they threw me out! They kicked you out! They kicked me out and took my luggage and threw it away, and so I was in Paris for a couple of days. I had money, but could not eat the food. I had an apple in the morning and an apple at night and I went back to Holland with no place to stay. I went to the Indonesian embassy and they were having a dinner party and there were people in line waiting for the food, rice and chilli, oh my. I was in line and I met an Indonesian and he put me up in his house. I bought fine Balinese art and brought it back to Bali for my Museum and at that time there were none that were available. So how did you acquire the museum? When I came back all I could think of were the museums I had visited in Europe, that’s what inspired me. There were no museums here when you started? There were only two museums here that were built by the Dutch, but I wanted a living, creative museum, not only the artwork, but integrated with the surroundings. And so a living museum? Yes, not only the art given by man, but also by nature. Have you ever shown your own art in the museum? No, no. Why not? Because I have no confidence in showing people. What are the most famous artists you’ve had here? Oh, so many. Walter Spies, whose art is here now…he worked here and was inspired here, in Bali. Covarrubias, Bonnet, foreigners, Australian artists, Austrian artists…all inspired by the culture here, and also local Balinese art in its earliest form, which is not even signed.
Do you believe that Ubud is a breeding ground for artists...it is known as the ‘Art centre of Bali’? It used to be until now. As you know we don’t have top art in Bali, we don’t have prima donnas in Bali, because Balinese people are so interesting, so unique. Because they are farmers, they are also painters, sculptors, musicians, dancers, temple priests, architects, landscapers. This is part of the culture, it is part of tradition within their religion; it’s our way of life, and it’s integrated. There is no term for ‘art’ in Bali; it’s an offering for us. Look, where I took you this morning, look at the temple, look at the painting, you can see the art decorating the temple and in the home. Do you have any regrets? What kind of regrets? That’s what I’m asking you! Things you would have liked to have done differently? I’m a simple person. I like the best of everything. I have my own feelings, I have my own fears, people like it or not, I don’t care, I’m showing my best. I try to make life happy and joyful. My supporter is my wife, I like to make her happy, and this is my answer. How many children do you have? One boy and three girls. One of the girls is adopted and we all live together in my father’s home. I presume that you’ve built on to the house over the years Yes of course! My father is 87 years old and is still busy with his tools, with his toys, farming with his cow, rooster. Talking about art, he doesn’t want to know, I don’t know if he’s happy or not, he never talks about it. What were some of the obstacles you had to overcome or the problems with the government if any? No problems with the government. Every President has come here except Suharto. Also Desmond Tutu, he came twice. Many, many others. That’s why I call it a living museum. Have you always lived in Ubud? For nine generations in the same place. I got lost in translation here, I still want to know about your travelling experiences and how you think about other Balinese travelling? I think it is very important that Balinese travel. I love travelling. I went to Holland many times. One, two, three times, not enough. I went back, I took my children, and the more I go, the more I appreciate it. I learn from modern culture. Have you travelled around the world? I used to live in New York City on Second Avenue for six months, then three months and then in different areas. Sounds like you liked New York City the most? Well I don’t like to leave until I finally understand, you know, like until I’ve lost the plot [laughter]. So after a while I understand. I went to Japan a lot, back to Paris many times; of course I didn’t stay at the same hotel! I stayed in the penthouse. It’s so important for me to go deeper and deeper, and for my children. I want them to experience the culture. I don’t want them just knowing their own culture.
UBUD-based artist Wolfgang Widmoser painted The Dreaming Boy as part of a Jakarta exhibition in the Akili Museum in November 2008 called New Realism. “I painted the theme in another version in 1989 in Australia,” he says of the painting. “For me it’s always been a sort of reflection of how things are, a psychic landscape...reality and dreams melded into a visual kaleidoscope, a frozen moment when we step back to look at things from another perspective.” www.wolfgang-widmoser.com
PRE SCRIBES The Ubud Readers and Writers Festival once more brings its particular blend of magic to town with six full days of activities to get the creative juices flowing, writes Michael Andrews. IT was a dark and stormy night. Strike that. It is four jammed packed stimulating days and verging on wild evenings filled with diverse arts and culture including a Bali-inspired version of Shakespeare’s Midnight Summer’s Dream, a Bach concert set to contemporary Balinese dance, a late night X-rated performance prose–poetry slam with odes to the Martini, and even a Karaoke night for writers to let loose and embellish their favorite songs with some of their own ad-libs. It’s not Burning Man, it’s the Ubud Readers and Writers Festival and it takes place every October. This year’s festival is themed as “Suka Duka”, meaning “Compassion and Solidarity”, running Wednesday Oct. 7th to Sunday Oct. 11th, 2009. Of course, of course, there’s the usual writer’s fest fare of panel sessions, debates, readings, writing workshops and inconversations with a mix of diverse writers, poets, photographers and filmmakers such as Wole Soyinka, the first African to receive a Nobel Prize for literature, Sam Culter, former tour manager for the Rolling Stones, and Vikas Swarup, author of the novel Q & A on which the film Slumdog Millionaire was based. But for those with no immediate interest in the literary scene there are plenty of other ways to join in on the celebration, including a street festival, a night market, a herb discovery walk around Ubud, a daily textile exhibition showcasing the long heritage of weaving in Bali, and even cooking classes. Once you factor in the awe inspiring venues overlooking rice terraces you’re beginning to appreciate why Harper’s Bazaar UK rated the Ubud festival as one of top six in the world and last year’s total festival event attendance topped 21,000. “It’s about incredible diversity,” says program founder and organiser, Janet DeNeefe, who purposely seeks out and invites many “writers with a cause” with opposing opinions and beliefs to inspire heated discussions around topics of “religion, human rights, race and identity.” The festival, in the past has not shied from controversy, tackling subjects such as Indonesian wildlife policies and debating the justifications behind the fates of the three Bali bombers. But DeNeefe concedes that overall it’s still very much “a warm, friendly and feel-good festival” with dialogues touching on “literary expression, families and love.” DeNeefe decided to begin the festival after the Bali bombings of 2002. It was her own response to encourage tourists to return to Bali after feeling that the world was abandoning her island home of almost twenty years. Since its inception, the Ubud Readers and Writers Festival has attracted the likes of The English Patient writer, Michael Ondaatje, John Berendt, writer of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, as
well as Vikram Seth, Pico Iyer, Kiran Desai, Shashi Tharoor and Richard Flanigan, to name a few. DeNeefe is also encouraged at how the festival has provided international exposure and promotion to marvelous emerging writers from Indonesia who were previously unknown. A big part of the international appeal of the festival is its limited size and relaxed nature that entices bookworms and would-be writers alike from Australia, Jakarta and expats from all over Asia to fly into Bali to attend. Foreigners make up a third of all attendees. “It’s a wonderfully intimate setting where there is an easy-going interaction between writers and readers throughout the festival,” remarks DeNeefe. “At any one of the events you may strike up a conversation with the person sitting next to you and be thrilled to discover that you are speaking with one of the scheduled authors in attendance.” This year's event promises 105 authors from twenty three different countries. The strength of the writing workshops offered is another of the big yearly draws to the festival for those who believe that they have a story to tell, but just don’t quite know where to start, or how to finish, their own writing piece. This year, surfer/writer Jaimal Yogis will present a workshop on the truths and fictions around surf culture and talk about where surf writing is headed, as well as instruct in the ways to “capture the ethereal and ancient art of wave riding in prose and story.” BAFTA award winner and filmmaker Asitha Amereskere will give an Introduction to Screenwriting class. Travel and eco writer, Paul Sochaczewski, will conduct two different full-day workshops on writing your personal story and the ins and outs of travel writing, revealing his “ten tips for powerful writing” and his “Zen-music-speedwriting” exercise. There will be poetry workshops and a full-day master class on playwriting for the theatre with Marco Calvani. As well, Brian Thacker, whose book Sleeping Around won 2009’s travel book of the year in Australia, will lead a spirited walk through rice paddies while he recounts tales of his travels through Southeast Asia. The festival conducts its readings and discussions over the four main days but the workshops and other events stretch out over six. Looking ahead to next year, the theme will be “Bhinneka Tunggal Ika”, translated to, “Unity in Diversity”. For what more to expect in the future, DeNeefe hints, “the festival strives to put forward new and unique events, happenings, and performances with every festival.” It’s best to check in to the festival website early next year for more information on how to join Ubud’s next celebration of readers and writers. www.ubudwritersfestival.com