Issuu on Google+

What your favorite animal? I love little Jawa Betets. They’re cute little guys, little feisty fuckers (laughing). Nah, umm, I like tigers. The white tiger Did you went to see the white tiger? Correct. You close to him? You touch him? No, but we just... made contact. You make contact, right? Like a god. Like Hindu god. Like Buddha. Yeah, from one to another. Yeah, yeah.

Do you remember your first board? My first surfboard? Yeah. Yes I do. My first surfboard came from Santa Claus. He brought it. It was a HIC. It was very wide and I couldn't put my arms around it. It was a twin fin with box fins. What size? I don’t know. It was big. My first custom board was about a 5’0” shaped by Bill Hamilton. Who? Bill Hammerton? Bill Hamilton. Bill Hammerton, ok.

Yeah, exactly, I know what you mean. Surf how I wanna surf... Yeah, exactly. And it’s my expression of me...

What do you love about surfing? What do I love about surfing? (long, deep pause) I like surfing... because I can do it... Get nuts like Teahupoo after get wipeout and then naked? I like surfing because I get to surf when I want to surf...

Exactly. ...and no one else. Yeah, because you Bruce Irons. You da guy! I surf for myself. Yeah, exactly.


Bali Belly Issue 002